til/>('' 



'c.t-^;' 






:iii!i;!|(;<l''''!;!:.i:"'l 
!,:,!;;! 



i-lri'ii'^inr^'-l':' 



H,;:*:f;';ry,fl': 



'm;'/.''') 



■*afif,v)!iij: 



\^mx 



W;i;(l' 






m 



m^ 



'.IX!,! :;,(.' 



f!'';:*^? 



iffitfifflilt 




;r;-:ii: 










Class _fLiAX_ 
Book <j^xi4- 

CCPXRIGHT DEMSm 













'!%%>. 



■1^ 



CONXKNTS. 



ILLUMIALiT/OiVS AND FULL^PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. 



2 

5 
1 1 

15 

18 

19 



Washington, I). C, MoNUMENXi, 
Chicago, . . . 
New- York City, 



Nature in the North, preceding i Yosemite Valley 

Nature in the South, " 

The Natural Products, facing 

Historical Map ok the U. S., . 

Political Map of the U. S., . .4 

Population Map of the U. S., 10, 

The Presidents Portrayed, . 

West Point, 

The Military' Service, .... 

Annapolis, 

The Naval Service, .... 



PAGE. 

75 



Washington, D. C, . . . . 151 



Niagara Falls, 5 



161 
217 

605 



(iettysburg monuments, . . 
Yellowstone National Park, 
Nature in the East, . . . 
Nature in the West, . . . 



23 



27 
715 
S93 
952 
953 



The Maps of the States form an Atlas arranged in their alphabetical 
order and cover the 48 pages from 461 to jos. 

DESCRIPTION AND MAPS: 



TEXT. MAP. 

PAGE. PAGE. 

United St.ates, .... 3 2, 4, 10 

Alabama, 27 461 

Alaska, 43 465 

Arizona, 53 462 

Arkansas, 59 463 

Atlas of the States, . 461-508 

California, ..... 69 465 

Colorado, loi 466 

Connecticut, . . . .117 467 

Delaware 143 468 

District of Columbia, . 149 468 

Florida, 165 469 

Georgia, 177 470 

Idaho, 193 471 

Illinois, ...... 201 472 

Indiana, 233 473 

Indian Territory', , . 247 502 

Ic>\\'A, 253 474 

Kansas, 263 475 

Kentucky 273 476 

Louisiana, 293 478 

Maine, 311 479 

Maryland, 321 468 

Massachusetts, .... 339 480 

Michigan, 401 483 

Minnesota, 419 481 

Mississippi, 437 484 

' The Illustrated Heading of each 

Arms and Motto, the State Capitol, 
some person prominently connected 



Missouri, . , 
Montana, . . 
Nebraska, . . 
Nevada, . . 
New Hampshire, 
New Jersey, . 
New Mexico, 
New York, 
North Carolina 
North Dakota, 
Ohio, . . 
Oklahoma, 
Oregon, . . 
Pennsylvania, 
Rhode Island, 
South Carolin.a., 
South Dakota, 
Tennessee, 
Texas, . . . 
Utah, . . . 
Vermont, . . 
Virginia, . . 
Washington, . 
West Virginia, 
Wisconsin, 
Wyoming, . . 
Index, .... 

State Chapter c 
THE Pet A'ame 

WITH its hi ST OR 



TEXT. 
PAGE. 

443 

509 
521 

531 

537 
549 
567 
575 
645 

655 
661 

693 
697 
709 

763 
781 
789 

795 
811 

831 
839 

849 
865 

879 
885 

903 
9'3 



map. 

PAGE. 
485 
486 

487 
464 
506 
488 
489 
491 

492 

493 
494 
502 

495 
497 
498 

499 
500 

477 
503'' 
501 
506 

505 
507 
504 
482 
508 



the State 
TRAIT of 




^/<J 



KING'S HANDBOOK 



I UNITED ST: 




I 



ENGRAVErt PRINTED AND BOUND BY THE MATTHEWS-NORTHRUP CO., BUFFALO, N. Y, \ 



^f^ I 




NATURAL PRODUCTS OF THE UNITED STATED, 




11,386,632 

3,527,009 

27,390 

109,535 

8,ooo 

38 

2,077 

6^,965 

202,786 

" ''■515,593 



The secret of America was 

guarded well from the men of 

the Old World. Phoenician gal- 
leys are reported to have reached 

its shores before Christ was born 

in Galilee ; and in later centuries 

the troubadours sang of Prince 

Madoc's westward voyages, and 

the pilgrimage of St. Brandan, 
and the mighty deeds of the Norsemen on the Vinland 
coast. Even these vague stories had been forgotten, and 
the Europeans looked with awe westward over the unknown 
Sea of Darkness, stretching away to the nether side of the 
globe. Then Columbus came forth, from his hut on the 
Genoese coast, and led a little fleet of Spanish vessels to 
the outpost islands of America, in 1492. He was followed, 
five years later, by John Cabot, a Venetian mariner, who, 
with his little English ship and English crew, first reached 
the continent of North America. Americus Vespucius dis- 
covered South America ; Balboa crossed the Isthmus of 
Panama ; and Sir Humphrey Gilbert and other English 
sailors visited the northern coast. For a century America 
was believed to be a part of Asia, the land of gold and 
spices, and men voyaged hither hoping to find the riches 
of the Orient. When the truth became known, the Eu- 
ropeans set about colonizing the new-found continent, 
some moved by ambition, some by avarice, and some by a 
desire for freedom in religious and secular life. The 
Spaniards and Portuguese laid hold on South and Central 
America and the West Indies, and Spain founded the 
earliest permanent settlements within the limits of the pres- 
ent United States, at St. Augustine, in 1565, and at Santa 
Fe, in 1598. France occupied the Canadian wilderness 
and the Mississippi Valley; and Holland and Sweden 
planted colonies in the Hudson and Delaware regions, and elsewhere. England's men, sent 
by Sir Walter Ralegh, attempted to settle in Carolina, in 1585 ; Gosnold established a transi- 
tory colony in Massachusetts, in 1602; and the Virginia Company founded Jamestown, in 



Population in 1790, . . . 3,929,214 

In 1800, 5,308,483 

In 1810, 7,239,i;8i 

In T820, ... . . 9,633,822 

In 1830, i2,866,o?r. 

In 1840, • 17,069,453 

In 1850 23.191,876 

In i860, 31,443,321 

In 1870, 38,558,371 

In 1880 50,155,783 

In 1890 62,622,250 

Indians (Census of 1890), . 249,273 

Total vote cast at last 
Presidential election. 

Area (square miles), 

Army (in 1890), , . . 
Disciplined Militia, . 

Navy (in 1890) Sailors, . 
Ships in commission, 
V. S. Marine Corps, . 

Post-offices 

Railroads (miles), . , 

Net National Debt (April 

„ 30, '9") $ . .^ ^,^„ 

Newspapers and Periodicals, 19,373 

Mean Annual Tempera- 
ture (excluding Alaska), 53° 

CITIES OF OVER 100,000 INHABI- 
TANTS (census of 1890}. 

New York, N. Y., . . . 1,515,301 

Chicago, III., 1,099,850 

Philadelphia, Pa., . . . . 1,046,964 
Brooklyn, N. Y., . . . . 806,343 

St. Louis, Mo., 451,770 

Boston, Mass. 448,477 

Baltimore, Md., .... 434,439 
San Francisco, Cal., . . . 298,997 
Cincinnati, Ohio, .... 296,908 
Cleveland, Ohio, .... 261,353 

Buffalo, N. Y., 255,664 

New Orleans, La., . , . 242,039 
Pittsburgh, Pa., .... 238,617 
Washington, D. C, . . 230,392 

Detroit, Mich., 205,876 

Milwaukee, Wis., .... 204,468 

Newark, N . J 181,830 

Minneapolis, Minn., . . . 164,738 
Jersey City, N. J., ... 163,003 
Louisville, Ky., .... 161,129 

Omaha, Neb. 140,452 

Rochester, N. Y 133,896 

St. Paul, Minn., .... 133,156 
Kansas City, Mo., . . . 132,716 
Providence, R. I., . . . . 132,146 

Denver, Colo., 106,713 

Indianapolis, Ind., . . . 105,436 
Allegheny, Pa. 105,287 



a'/jvg's handbook of the united STA TES. 




The Heavy Douudary lines represent the unofficial but popular divisiou of the Country iuto: 

East. Old West, South, South West. New West. Mountain and Pacific Slope States. 



POL ITICAL MAP OF THE UNITED STATES. 




^{rbe Bluish figures ( 7 ) Show the Number of Congressmen in each State^ 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



1606. In 1620 the exiled English Pilgrims founded Plymouth, in Massachusetts; and ten 
years later the Puritans settled Boston. For a century and a half, the British colonists 
advanced slowly inland, pressing back the Indians, Frenchmen, Spaniards and all others by 
force of arms. When Great Britain imposed heavy taxes on her American subjects, in 
1765, to help pay the costs of the French war, they rose in arms against the principle of 
taxation without representation. Then followed the Revolutionary War, from 1775 to 
1783, when the United Colonies, aided by French fleets and armies, won their indepen- 
dence.^ The troops in the field numbered 131,000 Continental regulars and 164,000 volun- 
teers. The States formed a loose confederation of republics from 1781 until 1787, when 
that wonderful document, the Constitution of the United States, was framed by Washing- 
ton, Franklin, Hamilton, Madison, Livingston, Jay, Sherman and other fathers of the Re- 
public. This system of government was accepted by each of the States ; and in 1789, 
Washington became the first President. 

The original Republic, lying between the seaboard and the Alleghany Mountains, was 
greatly enlarged by the conquests of George Rogers Clark's Virginians, in 1778, covering 



the country between the Ohio, 
sissippi River. In 1803 Presi- 
Bonaparte $15,000,000 for the 
as far as Texas and the Rocky 
and Clarke to explore and pre- 
Barbary corsairs had for many 
sels and held their crews as 
conquered Tripoli, and in 1815 
the Algerian fleet, and both 
forced to yield their claims of 
During the long Napoleonic 
check American commerce with 
like manner impeded our trade 
dent Jefferson retaliated by the 
to leave our ports. For 14 
maincd sealed up in its harbors, 
Ensrland and New York. Great 




DUXBURY, MASSACHUSETTS : 

MILES-STANDISH MONUMENT. 



the Great Lakes, and the Mis- 
dent Jefferson paid Napoleon 
region west of the Mississippi, 
Mountains ; and sent Lewis 
empt the Oregon Country, The 
years captured American ves- 
slaves. In 1801-5 the navy 
Commodore Decatur defeated 
these piratical powers were 
tribute from the United States, 
wars France endeavored to 
British ports, and England in 
with French countries. Presi- 
Embargo, forbidding vessels 
months American shipping re- 
to the immense loss of New 
Britain also claimed the right 



to stop and search our vessels on the high seas, and impress from them seamen for the 
crews of the Royal Navy. After 900 ships had been thus searched, and 5,000 mariners 
taken out, the United States declared war on Great Britain. During the three years' 
struggle that ensued, our navy covered itself with glory, and the British Government finally 
made peace, abandoning its claim of impressing sailors. In 1819, Spain ceded Florida to the 
Republic, and with it her claims on the Pacific Coast. Wave after wave of migration passed 
westward, down the Ohio and along the Great Lakes, building up vigorous commonwealths 
in the interior of the continent. -The war with Mexico resulted in the acquisition of Texas, 
New Mexico, Nevada, Utah, Arizona and California ; and at about the same time the 
United States extended her sway over the Oregon Country. 

In 1860-I eleven of the 15 Southern States, believing in the sovereignty of each State, 
and believing, also, that certain of their peculiar institutions were endangered by Northern 
aggression, endeavored to secede from the Union, and formed the new government of the 
Confederate States of America. The National Government put 2, 780, 000 soldiers under arms. 
Of this vast armament, New England furnished 363,000 men ; the Middle States, 864,000 ; 
the border Southern States, 323,000 ; and the six older Western States, 1,022,000. Afte- 
four years of desperate fighting, from Arizona to the Atlantic, the authority of the Unitea 
States was fully restored throughout all the Southern country. But this supreme effort 
cost the lives of 500,000 men (350,000 Federal; 150,000 Confederate), and increased 
the National debt to $2,800,000,000, besides nearly ruining the South, whose cities and 



F= F=i 



F" A O E 



In this book of almost a thousand pages the 
space has proved to be so Umited, compared with 
the subject to be treated, that every inch has had 
to be utilized, and from cover to cover there is 
not a blanlv line. Under such circumstances no 
room can well be spared for an extended intro- 
duction, and the propriety of devoting even a 
single page to explanation of the reason for the 
existence of the volume could well be doubted, if 
it were not that some few words of such expla- 
nation rhay put the plan of the work before the 
reader in such a manner as to increase the actual 
usefulness of the book to him. When we know 
for what purpose an edifice was planned we can 
more readily find our way to the special accom- 
modations which at any time we need. 

This Handbook of the United States was 
planned to condense into a single readable vol- 
ume of moderate size that information about our 
own country which every intelligent and patri- 
otic citizen ought to have at his command. The 
arrangement adopted was a treatment by States, 
preceded by a general article upon the whole 
country and the Federal relations and functions. 
Only those subjects were to be treated under the 
general head which were not divisible into their 
parts by States, and the details of the information 
in every instance possible were to be concen- 
trated, each under its proper State article. 

Every one of these monographs was to be writ- 
ten on the same general plan, and in such a man- 
ner as to afford a complete account of the State 
as it was recorded in the census of 1890, with 
such an account of its past as was necessary for 
the understanding of its present condition, moral, 
social, and economic, as well as physical and 
material. Each State was to be explained by a 
map, comprehensive enough to show every mile 
of railroad in operation and every considerable 
village. The general statistics of each State 
were to be grouped in a tablet on the first page 
so that they might be handy for instantaneous 
reference. The article was to begin with a suc- 
cinct historical sketch followed by explanations 
and lists of the State Name, Seal and Governors ; 
then were to follow accounts of the surface of the 
soil or its topography, the internal constituents 
of the land or the Geology, the usual conditions 
of the surrounding atmosphere or the Climate, 
the products of the land and the manner of its 
cultivation or Agriculture. Next in order were 
to be described the Government, the Militia, the 
treatment of the unfortunate and of the criminal, 
with an account of the public institutions devoted 
to their care, as well as of the general public 
works of the State. Education, the cornerstone 



of the institutions of a free people, was to have 
special attention, and a treatment so full as to be 
of permanent value as an incentive and an exam- 
ple. The material side, so important in a collec- 
tion of commonwealths which have shown an 
industrial development unequaled in the world's 
history, was to have adequate though condensed 
notice under the heads of Commerce, Railroads, 
Finances, Manufactures, with Mining and simi- 
lar specialties where needed. The Chief Cities, 
too, in every instance were to be described. 

These monographs were all written and rewrit- 
ten, and in every instance submitted, for criti- 
cism and revision, to the best authorities in each 
State. A few of the names of the many distin- 
guished Americans who gave their aid in this 
manner are mentioned in the author's acknowl- 
edgment on page 26 ; but the obligations in this 
particular are so numerous that no list can be 
contained in moderate space — space and words 
both fail for the expression of what the publishers 
will always feel as a debt of gratitude owing 
from them to their kind friends. 

The illustrationsnecessary to explain and make 
clear the text proved to be unexampled in num- 
ber for any single volume. Had not the limits of 
space forbidden, the drawings alone actually 
used would easily have filled a volume larger 
than the one now containing them with the de- 
scriptive text and the atlas of the country. The 
necessary reduction has taken away from the 
apparent importance of each of the 2,606 pictures, 
but we hope ttiat a careful examination will show 
that the artistic beauty and the intrinsic value 
have in all cases been retained. 

As the Handbook in its essentials is based upon 
the National Census of 1890, whose final results 
were announced only in 1893 and 1894, it has been 
thought best to leave the text with only minor 
alterations, and to embody the results of later 
and generally less authoritative compilations up 
to i8q6 in the form of an appendix. The portion 
relating to any State can be reaa easily and 
quickly, and thus in an instant the necessary 
emendations be fixed in the mind of the reader, 
without the need of destroying the symmetry of 
the work as a record. In the case of the maps, 
all information available up to 1896 has been em- 
bodied in the plates so as to make of them a 
complete up-to-date atlas. 

With these few explanations of the intent of its 
author and publishers, we leave the result of 
their labors for the consideration of the public. 



The Matthews-Northrup Co. 



March i, iS 



A'/NG'S HAMDBOOtC OJ^ THE UNITED STATES. 




THR UNITED ST A TES OF AMERICA. 



1 



rural regions had been laid desolate. In due time, the governments of the Southern States 
were restored to their people, and the Stars and Stripes once more floated, an honored 
emblem, over a great, prosperous and united Republic. Sii Perpetua. 

The Name of the Great Republic is stated by the Constitution as The United States 
OF America. The league against British oppression was naturally called the United 
Colonies, until Congress resolved (Journal II., 328) "that in all Continental commissions 
and other instruments, where heretofore the words 'United Colonies' have been used, the 
style be altered for the future to be the ' United States.'" The name America comes from 
avialric, or etnmerich, an Old-German word spread thi'ough Europe by the Goths, and 



softened in Latin to 
ian to Amerigo. It 
Brazil. Americas 
a wealthy Florentine 
voyages to the New 
than Columbus, and 
of his discoveries. 
Hylacomylus, of the 
the Vosges Mountains, 
Cos}nographice Iiitro- 
said : ' ' Now, truly, as 
widely explored, and 
discovered, by Amer- 
no reason why it 
called Anierigoi, — 
ericus, or America, 
discoverer, a man of 
Hylacomylus invented 
and as there was no 
World, this came 
use. It does not ap- 
was a party to this 
transaction, which has 
ment of a hemisphere. 
The pet name for 
ment is Uncle Sam. 
War of 18 1 2, when 
inspector of provisions 
erican army, at Troy. 
" U. S. ," marked on 
familiar to the people, 
men spread the face- 
meant "Uncle Sam" Wilson. The good inspector was often rallied on the rapid increase 
of his possessions ; and when many of his men entered the army the old joke about Uncle 
Sam was carried from camp-fire to camp-fire, and permeated all the armies in the field. 
Wilson died at Troy, in 1854. Uncle Sam is usually portrayed as a tall, thin man, of a 
Yankee type, with a long chin beard. He is clad in a blue swallow-tail coat, bearing white 
stars ; his outgrown trowsers are of red and white stripes ; and his head is covered with a 
white bell-crowned tall hat. Another pet name is Brother Jonathan, from Governor 
Jonathan Trumbull, of Connecticut. Gen. Washington, when in doubt or perplexity used 
to say : "Let us consult Brother Jonathan," and the name got to be synonymous with sen- 
sible and patriotic American manhood. New-Englanders (and often all Americans) are 
called Yankees, perhaps because the Indians used to say Yengees for "English." 




NEW-YORK HARBOR ; STATUE OF LIBERTY ENLIGHTENING 
THE WORLD ( BY BARTHOLDi). 



Americus, and in Ital- 
was first applied to 
Vespucius, the son of 
notary, made several 
World, a few years later 
gave spirited accounts 
About the year 1507, 
college at St. Die, in 
brought out a book, 
diictio, in which he 
these regions are more 
another fourth part is 
icus Vespucius, I see 
should not be justly 
that is the land of Am- 
from Americus, its 
a subtle intellect." 
the name America, 
other title for the New 
gradually into general 
pear that Vespucius 
almost accidental 
made him a monu- 

the American Govern- 
It arose during the 
Samuel Wilson was an 
destined for the Am- 
The abbreviation of 
the casks, was then un- 
and one of the work- 
tious saying that it 



A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



The Great Seal of the United States, adopted in 1782, shows a shield of 13 perpen- 
dicular red and white stripes (the States), upholding a blue field (Congress). The shield 
is borne on the breast of a displayed eagle, whose right talon holds an olive branch, and 
his left talon holds a bundle of 13 arrows. In his beak he carries a scroll, inscribed with 
the motto : E Pluribus Unum ( "One out of many," one government formed from num- 
erous States). A similar phrase occurs in the Latin poets, Horace and Virgil, and had 
been printed for many years prior to the Revolution on the title-page of The Ge7itlenia7i's 
Magazine, of London, then largely circulated in the American colonies. The Great Seal 
has as a crest a golden glory, breaking through a cloud, and enclosing a blue field, with a 
constellation of 13 white stars. The American Eagle, or Bald Eagle (^Ilaliaetiis leucocephali(s), 
is a dark brown or blackish bird, three feet long, with pure white head and tail. This noble 
"Bird of Freedom" for over a century has been the National emblem. 

The American Ensign, as arranged by the Navy Department, contains an upper 
row of eight stars and a lower row of eight, with four rows, each of seven stars, between 
them. The colors are red, signifying Divine love, valor and war ; white, whose language 
is hope and truth, purity and peace ; and blue, the color of loyalty, sincerity and justice. 
The 13 stripes (six the full length of the flag, and seven from 
the blue union) typify the original 13 States; the 44 stars 
represent the 44 States in 1891, grouped in the constellation 
of the Union, "The radiant heraldry of Heaven." 

The flag raised over the American camps at Cambridge 
in 1776 was composed of the 13 stripes, with the British 
union. Li 1777 the stars and stripes came into being. 

The American Jack is the union of the flag. The Revenue 
Flag shows 16 perpendicular red and white stripes, and a 
white union bearing 13 blue stars. Many of the States have 
flags of their own, which are carried alongside the National 
standard, by their militia or volunteer troops. 

"As at the early dawn the stars shine forth even while it 
grows light, and then, as the sun advances, that light breaks 
into banks and streaming lines of color, the glowing red and 
intense white striving together and ribbing the horizon with 
bars effulgent. So on the American flag, stars and beams of 
many-colored light shine out together. And where this flag 
comes, and men behold it, they see in its sacred emblazonry 
no ramping lions and no fierce eagle, no embattled castles or 
insignia of imperial authority ; they see the symbols of light. It is the banner of dawn. It 
means Liberty; and the down-trodden creature of foreign despotism sees in the Ameri- 
can flag that very promise and prediction of God : ' The people which sat in'darkness saw 
a great light. ' * * * Our flag carries American ideas, American history, and Ameri- 
can feelings. Beginning with the Colonies, in its sacred heraldry, in its glorious insignia, 
it has gathered and stored chiefly this supreme idea : Divine right of liberty in man. Every 
color means liberty ; not lawlessness, not license ; but organized institutional liberty, — 
liberty through law, and laws for liberty !" — Henry Ward Beecher. 

The Presidents of the United States have been : George Washington, 1789-97 ; John 
Adams, 1797-1801; Thomas Jefferson, 1801-9; James Madison, 1809-17; James Monroe, 
1817-25; John Quincy Adams, 1S25-9; Andrew Jackson, 1829-37; Martin Van Buren, 
1837-41 ; William Henry Harrison, 1841; John Tyler, 1841-5 ; James Knox Polk, 1845-9; 
Zachary Taylor, 1849-50; Millard Fillmore, 1850-3; Franklin Pierce, 1853-7; James 
Buchanan, 1857-61 ; Abraham Lincoln, 1861-5; Andrew Johnson, 1865-9 ; Ulysses Simp- 
son Grant, 1869-77; Rutherford Birchard Hayes, 1877-81 ; James Abram Garfield, 1881 ; 
Chester Alan Arthur, 1881-5 ; Grover Cleveland, 1885-9 ; ^'^^ Benjamin Harrison, 1809-93. 




PLYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS : 
NATIONAL FOREFATHERS' MONUMENT. 



THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 9 

Distribution of Population. — The territory of the United States is so vast that its 
people, numerous as they are, would give but a sparse population if spread over it in any- 
thing like an equal ratio. Sixty-three million people dispersed over three million square 
miles would be widely scattered and difficult to reach. The fact is that the great American 
people have as yet settled their territory in a small part only. And that, though one half 
of the area may be said to be somewhat settled, by far the greater part of the United 
States is still just beginning to be utilized. 

The total figures are so well known that the natural impulse to strike an average leads 
almost every one into error. Few realize that the United States is made up of a compara- 
tively small portion well settled, and then a much larger portiorl sparsely settled, and that 
the vast majority of the area, by comparison, can hardly be called settled at all. 

The map showing distribution of population gives us the following round figures : 
16,000,000 living on 110,000 square miles, average 145; 12,000,000 living on 180,000 
square miles, average 66 ; 26,000,000 living on 900,000 square miles, average 29 ; 4,000,000 
living on 300,000 square miles, average 13 ; 4,000,000 living on 600,000 square miles, 
average 7 ; 750,000 living on 925,000 square miles, average 0.8. These figures show 
that one fourth the population lives in one twenty-fifth of the area, one half the popula- 
tion in one tenth of the area, eleven twelfths in one half of the area. 

A quarter of the population live in one twenty-fifth of the area ; and yet they are less 
closely crowded than the people of any prominent European country except Spain or Russia. 
If the whole United States were as thickly settled as this part of it, its population would be 
over four hundred millions. If the v/hole country were settled as closely as the part east 
of the Mississippi and north of the Ohio River, where now almost one half of the people 
live in one tenth of the area, the total population would be over three hundred millions, 
and then the population would be less than half as dense as that of Germany. 

Centers of Population. — The unequal distribution of the population of the United 
States, and its remarkable number of great cities, occasion striking peculiarities in the 
location of centers of population. 

That Cincinnati is entitled to the designation of the central city, can be seen by refer- 
ence to the circle drawn on the map at a distance of 750 miles from it. This circle includes 
every important city in the country, except Portland, Me., Galveston, Tex., Denver, Colo., 
Salt Lake City, Utah, and San Francisco and the other cities on the Pacific Slope. New 
Orleans, Boston and Duluth are about the extreme limits of this circle. The most distant 
of them can be reached within 36 hours on an express train, and almost any other city 
within 24 hours. A similar circle from Chicago reaches almost the same territory, except" 
in the extreme east and south, as will be readily seen. Perhaps the greater facilities of 
railroad communication make Chicago practically, though not geographically, equally 
central with Cincinnati. 

Another circle drawn from Buffalo with a radius of 450 miles, the distance to Chicago 
or Boston, shows that, with one possible exception, more large cities and a greater amount 
of thickly populated territory can be reached in a single night's journey from Buffalo than 
from any other large city in the United States. Certainly, one half the population of the 
United States is within 500 miles of Buffalo. The only other large city for which almost 
the same claim can be made is Pittsburg. Though not so easy of access from Boston and 
New England points, in other respects it has the same advantages as Buffalo. 

The most surprising concentration of urban and densely settled population is shown by 
the circle of 200 miles drawn from Neiv York City. Within that circle can be found, in 
an easy half-day's journey, over one fifth of the population of the United States, and 
almost one half of the number of those who live in cities of over 8,000 inhabitants. The 
entire territory outside of the 750-mile circle from Cincinnati does not contain one half so 
many inhabitants as are confined in this small circle, which in area is less than a thirtieth 
of the United States. 



lO PACIFIC {r20th Mcrhfhui) TIME + MOUNTAIN {_iosth Meridian^ TIME 4 CENTRAL (<p 



) 




Poii.lC Million 

>1STRIBUTI0N OFPOPU L AT I O N " i;»„*^sf ,'i 



,„ ^rdian') TIME + 



EASTERN (ysih Merfdian) TIME 




!oi ncil 
MA 

msuth 






lujih 



" T\ Joplin povlavBluJL-?— I-'" p' 



J . o Fajetteville 

UTTLE 

!!,..( Spring 

lupine Blutl 
. °Cam.k-ii^^ Gr 

Tt-xarkanr 



■b> 



ILLE « 
.n JaLV:5'c.n) CHATTANOOG* 









.W\HOl<: 



( 



1^- 



^''|'"o^- f Aberdeen 4.,ffi,AVi 

^f%:^X:^( °^°^^^iVJ^^^'"" MATTHEWS-NORTHRUP 
e^nvOlo 'ff ^ler'klpt*''''?;^ \ ^Macon \p \ HANDY MAP 

j-fc .,> J/~ |\_Sctoa]> °VcoluAbus p ^-rt OF THE 

.m~ „__? .-k„».i> ^_ k *^^^.„^ uf^jygQ STATES, 

;{oma3viUe V; (—Ifrernaiidin* SHOWINC- 

Biiori i^/\ ^ifisfeS'sacgiJ^ii ji^^^-^j^^ja^ and Standard Time Divisions. 

.r, mC \>\^ ^oicavUte^ S. ^ , MADE AT THEIR 



"»\ ».fMeridii 
^1 P L O D 1 S^A :n 

/ BATON^ 

\ ROUC.E 

aumohto L Xhar le^ 
Ne"M' 



\ 



.ONTGOMEtP 

Eufaula '^ 
Evcvgveen 




U L F 



O Fl 



„M..,iikso.ftha ^'''■^^ 



M E A' r 



made at their 
''complete aut-printcng works in 



SCALE OF STATUTE MILKSt 



rop.26 JliUional ^ 

AVERAGE 29 TO THE 8Q.MILE 




400 



i^ ^ 



t^. 




^ 



_^'"C U B A 3 •—■-^rt'-vfeK »■ 



Pop.4 .Millitms 

300,001 Sq.Milei 

AVERAGE 13 



10 TO 20 
TO THE SO-MILE 



Pop.4.JIillion3| , TO ,0 

600,U(KISq.Mile8 

AVERAGE 7 TO THE 8Q.MH.E 



Pop.3-i Million I ^^^^ , 

aJS.OlnScj. Miles 

AVERAGE 0.6 TO' THE SQ.MILE 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




WASHINGTON : 
OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS AND STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA. 



Descriptive. — The United States (excluding 
Alaska) occupies a position as to latitude, longitude 
and area which would correspond to that part of 
the Old World lying between Cairo and Prague, 
and between the west of Ireland and the eastern 
coast of the Black Sea. It faces the Atlantic Ocean 
with the deep fiords and rocky promontories of New 
England; the low sandy strands of New Jersey 
and Virginia, cut deep into by Delaware and 
Chesapeake Bays ; and the long southern beaches, 
behind which open still and shallow lagoons. 
Nearly parallel with the coast, and from 20 to 100 miles inland, the Appalachian Mountains 
run from Alabama northeastward for 1,300 miles, to Gaspe, on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 
including the Blue Ridge and Alleghany Mountains of Pennsylvania and the South, the 
Adirondacks and Catskills and Highlands of New York, and the Taconic, White and 
Green Mountains of New England. This highland country has a breadth of about 100 
miles, and a height of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet, culminating in North Carolina and New 
Hampshire in peaks above 6,000 feet high. The only practicable break in the range is 
where the Hudson and Mohawk Rivers have cut their way through, and afford an avenue 
for a vast movement of freight by water. Beyond the Appalachian Range opens the Cen- 
tral Valley, 1,250 miles square, and covering 1,500,000 square miles, drained by the Miss- 
issippi River and the Great Lakes. So slight an elevation intervenes between the Mississippi 
and the lakes, that a cutting of 100 feet deep would open a practical ship-canal between 
the two systems of waters, whose outlets are so widely separated. The Great Plains 
sweep up to the Rocky Mountains, which are 300 miles wide, and extend from Mexico to 
Canada, with many majestic ranges and peaks, and beautiful park-like valleys. Next west- 
ward comes the Great Basin of Utah and Nevada, an elevated plateau covering 250,000 
square miles, with vast treeless mountains, tracts of desert, and rivers evaporating on their 
arid plains. To the north lies the Columbian Plateau, largely of barren volcanic soil ; and 
to the south stretches the Colorado Plateau, with its stupendous canons. Westward rise 
the majestic Sierra Nevada and the Cascade Range, running from Mexico into British Col- 
umbia. Beyond the broad valleys of California and Oregon the Coast Range fronts the 
Pacific Ocean, broken at wide intervals by harbors. The Geographer of the United States 
divides the Republic into the Atlantic States, including the North Atlantic and South 
Atlantic groups ; the Central States, including the North Central and South Central Groups ; 
and the Western, or Cordilleran States, including Montana, Wyoming, Colorado and New 
Mexico, and all lying to the westward of these. 

Gannett's Bulletin on the Distribution of Population in Accordance with Topographic 
Features (}ila.y, 1891), sub-divides the Republic into 21 differing areas, as follows: The 
IVooded Coast Sroa/nps and rice-lands along the South Atlantic and the Gulf have 1 , 809, 000 in- 
habitants (mainly negroes). The Atlantic Tlain, 
between the swamps and the fall line, from New 
York to the Mississippi, low and level, and with 
much forest-growth, has 8,784,000 people. The 
Piedmont Region, between the fall line and the 
mountains, extends from Maine to Alabama, hilly 
in New England, level in the South, and abound- 
ing in woodlands, with 7,858,000 people. The 
broken and forest-clad New- England Hills (in- 
cluding also the Adirondacks) have 2,290,000. 
The Appalachian-Mountain System, from New 
UTAH : GREAT SALT LAKE. Jersey to Alabama, includes the Blue Ridge and 




THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



n 



its western valley, with 2,849,000 people. The Cumberland- Alleghany Plateau, an intri- 
cate and deep-forested mountain-land, extending from New York to Alabama, has 5,749,- 
000 inhabitants. The Interior Timbered Region covers southern Ohio and Indiana, western 
Kentucky and Tennessee, and northern Mississippi, with 11,292,000 inhabitants. The 
Lake Region, including parts of New York, Pennsylvania and Ohio, and most of Michigan, 
Wisconsin and Illinois, has 3,57S,OOOpeople. The Ozark-Mountain Region, in Arkansas and 
Missouri, has 1,041,000 inhabitants. The Alluvial Region of the Mississippi, from Cairo to 
Louisiana, is marshy and forested, with a richly fertile soil, and a perilous climate.' Most of its 




5,000 inhabitants are negroes. The Prairie Region, the granary of America, covers western 
Indiana, most of Illinois and Iowa, southern Wisconsin and Minnesota, northern Missouri, 
eastern Dakota, and Kansas and Nebraska, and pushes down into Texas. It is a level 
country, originally rich in grasses, but devoid of timber. Here dwell 13,048,000 people. 
The Great Plains, treeless, billowy, too scant in rain for farming without irrigation, extend 
from the prairies (the 99th meridian) to the Rocky Mountains, and have 737,000 inhabitants. 
The North Rocky Alotentains, from Canada southeast to central Wyoming, have 153,000. 
The South Rocky Mountains, from central Wyoming to Texas, have 247,000. These two 
sections of the continental range are separated by a broad plateau of lOO miles in Wyoming. 
The Plateau Region of the Colorado Valley, above the Rio Virgen, is a series of gigantic 
level steps, descending from 12,000 feet high to 2,000 feet, fronted by cliffs, and often cut 
into skeletons by profound canons. This sterile land, with its light and spasmodic rains, and 
its appalling phenomena of scenery, is the most thinly settled part of the Republic, having 
less than one inhabitant to the square mile (110,000). The Basin Region of Nevada and 
parts of Utah, California and Oregon, without outlet to the sea, and poor in rain, has 
403,000. The Columbian Mesas cover the basaltic plains of the Snake and Upper Columbia, 
in Idaho, Oregon and Washington, and have 219,000 people. The Sierra Nevada has 
146,000 ; The Pacific Valley, from Puget Sound to Tulare Lake, 435,000; The Cascade 
Range, deep forested around its extinct volcanoes, 179,000; and The Coast Ranges, Slo,ooo. 
The country between the Prairie Region and the Pacific Valley will never be thickly settled, 
on account of its lack of water, which seriously impedes farming pursuits. The Pacific 
States can happily accommodate and sustain many times their present population ; and a 
large immigration has lately poured into Southern California and the Puget-Sound country. 



14 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



The Climate is colder than that of similar European latitudes, New York being ii°7' 
colder than Naples, and Norfolk 4°3' colder than San Fernando, Spain. The North-Atlantic 
and North-Pacific States have nearly the same temperatures, but the Southern States are 
warmer than the same latitudes along the Pacific, owing to the Gulf of Mexico. The pre- 
vailing winds are westerly. The largest rainfall is along the Atlantic and the Gulf. California 
is nearly rainless throughout the summer. The coldest locality (outside of Alaska) is along 
the Rocky Mountains, in Montana ; the hottest region is in the Colorado and Gila Valleys. 
The mean temperature of New York corresponds with that of Paris, but its winters are Ice- 
landic, and its summers Italian. Rains are equally distributed east of the hundredth meridian, 
coming largely from evaporation in the tropics, blown northward from the Gulf of Mexico, 
following the Appalachian Mountains, or spreading fan-like up the Mississippi Valley. The 
Eastern Gulf coast gets the heaviest rains, averaging above 60 inches of moisture a year, 
while Savannah, Charleston and Norfolk have less than 50 inches, and Philadelphia, New 
York and Boston have 43 inches each. Vast areas of New Mexico and Arizona, Utah and 
Wyoming, Montana and Oregon receive less than ten inches of moisture yearly. 

Agriculture is favored by the great diversity of soils and climates. The Federal statis- 
tics (see page 939) show that the farm-products exceed $3,800,000,000 a year. There 
_„ _ „ are 4,000,000 farms, cover- 

ing 536,000,000 acres, and 
valued, with their live-stock 
and implements, at $12,- 
000,000,000. Three fourths 
are cultivated by their 
owners. Not quite half of 
the wage-earners are en- 
gaged in farming. The 
yearly cost of fence-lniild- 
ing is $80,000,000; and of 
fertilizers, $30,000,000. 
The grass crop is the greatest of American products, for besides the vast amounts consumed 
in grazing, the hay cut on farms reaches a value of $400,000,000 a year. The live-stock 
numbers i65,ooo,ooohead, valued at $2,400,000,000. They include nearly 50,000,000 each 
of sheep and hogs, 37,000,000 oxen and cattle, 16,000,000 milch cows, and 16,000,000 horses 
and mules. The yearly dairy-products reach 600,000,000 gallons of milk, 800,000,000 
pounds of butter, and 30,000,000 pounds of cheese. The poultry product exceeds $75,000,- 
000 yearly, with 125,000,000 fowls, giving yearly 6,000,000,000 eggs. The crops of the 
United States in 1891 amounted to 44,444,000 tons of hay, 8,700,000 bales of cotton, 2,- 
075,000,000 bushels of corn, 588,000,000 of wheat, 758,000,000 of oats, 34,000,000 of 
rye, 80,000,000 of barley, 14,500,000 of buckwheat, and 225,000,000 of. potatoes ; and 
520,000,000 pounds of tobacco. 

Minerals arc produced to the amount of over $650,000,000 a year (see page 939), 
nearly one third of which is of coal, largely from Pennsylvania. The same State also 
produces 21,000,000 barrels of the petroleum ; and Ohio gives 12,000,000 barrels, the whole 
product being 45,000,000 barrels. Natural gas most abounds in Pennsylvania, Ohio and 
Indiana. The American product of iron and steel is now the largest in the world, and 
exceeds $150,000,000 yearly. The Cordilleran region gives yearly about 55,000,000 
ounces of silver, of a coin value of $70,000,000; and 1,600,000 ounces of gold, worth 
$33,000,000. Nearly half of the $34,000,000 worth of copper produced yearly comes 
from Montana, with large quantities from Michigan and Arizona. The marble of Vermont, 
Tennessee, and Georgia, the granite of New England and other sections, the sandstone 
of Ohio and Connecticut, and other stones show a value of $54,000,000 a year ; and the 
lime is worth $28,000,000. Double this amount is paid for brick and tile. 




THRESHING BY STEAM IN A PRAIRIE WHEAT-FIELD. 




I.WASHINGTON; 2. J. ADAMS ; 8. JEFFERSON ; 4. MADISON ; 6. MONROE ; 6. J. Q, ADAMS ; 7. JACKSON ; 8, VAN BUREN ; 

9. W. H. HARRISON ; 10. TYLER ; 11. POLK; 12. TAYLOR ; 13. FILLMORE; 14. PIERCE ; 15. BUCHANAN ; ' 16. LINCOLN ; 

17. JOHNSON; 18. grant; 19. HAYES; 20. GARFIELD; 21. ARTHUR; 22, CLEVELAND; 23. B.HARRISON. 



1 6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

The Government of the United States is in effect a republic of republics. It is more 
than a league of States, because it exercises direct authority over every citizen. Yet the 
States existed before the Republic came into being, and hold an undelegated authority over 
their people. They are subordinate to the Federal Government, yet they could survive 
without it, as independent republics. Bryce likens the United States to a group of ancient 
chapels, over which the vast cathedral of the Union has been built. Their identity remains; 
and if the greater structure decayed, they might still exist, as separate and independent edi- 
fices. The Federal Government administrates upon war and peace and foreign relations, the 
army and navy, the postal service, foreign and domestic commerce. Federal courts of justice, 
currency, copyrights and patents, taxation for general purposes, and the protection of citizens 
against unjust State legislation. All other and local administrations inhere in the several 
States, where the local needs are best known. The President and Congress are subject to 
the Constitution, and the only sovereign power is the will of the people, acting under the 
Constitution, and with the capacity of amending that document. The President and Vice- 
President are chosen by electors (numbering 442 in 1S93), the people of each State choosing 
by vote as many as the State has members of both houses of Congress. The electors meet 
in their several States, and vote for the candidate whom they have been elected to choose. 
So that the electoral vote of each State is solid for one candidate, and the popular vote for 
the minority candidate in that Commonwealth is lost. Thus it may happen (and has hap- 
pened at least twice) that the Presidential candidate in whose name the largest number of 
votes has been cast by the people, is not elected. If no one gets a majority of the total 
number of electoral votes, the House of Representatives must choose the President, from 
the three candidates receiving the highest number of electoral votes. In this case (which 
has happened twice) the Representatives vote by States, each State delegation being a unit. 
Thus the 23 smaller States could elect a President against the 21 larger States. There is an 
unwritten law, that will probably never be disregarded, that no chief magistrate shall have 
a third term. The President is commander-in-chief of the army and navy, but never offi- 
cially enters the field of war. He appoints the chief executive officers of the Government. 

The Cabinet includes the Secretaries of State, the Treasury, War, the Navy, the Interior, 
and Agriculture, the Postmaster-General and the Attorney-General. The Secretaries of 
State, the Treasury, and War, and the Attorney-General composed W'ashington's cabinet. 

The Congress of the United States is composed of the Senate and the House of Repre- 
sentatives. The Senate includes 88 senators, two being elected by the legislature of each 
State, for a term of six years. It is the connecting link between the State and Federal 
Governments, being chosen by the States (not by the people) to form part of the National 
Government. The House of Representatives includes 356 members, elected every two years 
by a vote of the people. The relative importance of the State governments has decreased 
within a half-century, while the Nation has grown majestically superior. 

The Federal judicial tribunals include the Supreme Court, of nine justices, sitting at 
Washington; the nine Circuit Courts; the 55 District Courts; and the Court of Claims 
(with five justices). They deal with cases in law and equity arising under the Federal 
Constitution, laws or treaties ; cases affecting ambassadors and consuls ; cases of maritime 
jurisdiction ; controversies to which the United States is a party ; and controversies be- 
tween States, or citizens of different States, or a State and citizens of another State, or be- 
tween States (or their citizens) and foreign states or subjects. 

The domain of the United States now includes 44 States, four Territories (New Mexico, 
Arizona, Utah and Oklahoma), the District of Columbia, Alaska, and the Indian Territory. 

The 13 original States were New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, 
Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Delaware, 
Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia. Maine was taken from 
Massachusetts ; Vermont, from New Hampshire and New York ; and West Virginia, from 
Virginia. The remaining 28 States have risen from later- won domains of the Republic. 



THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



17 



The United-States Army consists of 27,390 men, in ten regiments of cavalry, five of 
artillery, and 25 of infantry. There are 2,225 negro soldiers, forming the Ninth and Tenth 
Cavalry and the 24th and 25th Infantry regiments ; and 1,485 Indian soldiers, to be enrolled 
into regiments. There are 104 garrisoned posts (not including arsenals), and 45 ungarri- 
soned forts. The organized militia numbers 112,000 men, and the unorganized militia in- 
cludes 8,600,000 men available for military duty. The Soldiers' Home is near Washington. 

The United-States Military Academy at West Point (New York) has graduated 3,500 
officers for the army. Post-graduate schools for officers are in operation at Fort Monroe, 
Virginia (for artillery), and at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas (for cavalry and infantry). Up 
to the year 1861, West Point had graduated 1,966 officers, of whom 1,249 were then living. 
Three fourths of these fought in the armies of the Union, including 162 from the Southern 
States (nearly half of the Southern graduates). During the war, one half of the West- 
Point graduates were wounded, and one fifth were killed in battle (see page 599)- 

The United-States Navy includes 8,000 men, and 72 vessels of the old fleet (of 
which only 30 are in commission), and 44 vessels of the new navy, twenty of them still under 
construction. These include battle-ships, harbor-defence rams, torpedo-boats, and armored 
and unarmored cruisers, most of them of steel, and with heavy modern armaments. The 
Marine Corps numbers 2,100 men. There are ten navy- 
yards, and four naval stations. The United-States Naval 
Academy, at Annapolis (Maryland), fits picked young men, 
by a six years' course of study, to be officers in the Line 
and Engineer Corps of the Navy, and in the Marine Corps 
(see page 332). 

The favorite National song with the army is The Star- 
Spanglfd Banner, written in 1814, by Francis Scott Key, of 
Georgetown, D. C, at that time a prisoner on the British 
fleet which was unsuccessfully attacking P'ort McIIenry, 
near Baltimore. The popular National song, America, was 
written at Andover, Mass., fli 1832, by Samuel Francis Smith, 
a native of Boston, a classmate of Oliver Wendell Holmes at 
Harvard, and now for many years past a resident of Newton, 
Mass., being by profession a clergyman. The JoJm Bro7uii 
song, so famous in the Union armies, originated at Fort War- 
ren, in Boston Harbor, in 1861, among the Massachusetts 
volunteers. The one great pOem of the war period was The 
Battle Hymn of the Republic, written to the John Broivn tune, by Julia Ward Howe, of 
Massachusetts. Of the older patriotic songs, Cohimlna, the Gem of the Ocean, and Hail 
Columbia both emanated from Philadelphia, the one in 1843, and the other in 179S. 

Pensions are paid to 680,000 persons, including 71,000 in New England, 138,000 in 
the Middle States, 87,000 in the South, and 384,000 in the West. The amount exceeds 
$120,000,000 a year. The list contains a score of widows of Revolutionary soldiers. 

The United-States Revenue-Cutter Service has 16 armed cruisers on the Atlantic 
and the Gulf, four on the Pacific, and four on the Great Lakes, besides'the harbor-steamers, 
and the school-ship at New Bedford. It costs $1,000,000 a year ; and enforces the cus- 
toms and neutrality laws, assists vessels in distress, and discharges many other duties. 

The Exports amount to $1,050,000,000 a year, three fourths of which is in agricultural 
products. Nearly two thirds goes to Great Britain and her colonies. The imports reach 
$900,000,000 yearly, one third of which comes from Great Britain and her colonies. Before 
the civil war, two thirds of the imports and exports were carried in American vessels ; now, 
less than one eighth is thus carried. Commerce employs 4,700,000 tons of American ship- 
ping, valued at $180,000,000. Three fourths of this is in the coastwise trade. The tonnage 
exceeds that of every other nation except one. 




NEW-YORK CITY : GRANT MONUMENT, 
BEING ERECTED IN RIVERSIDE PARK. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




UNITED-STATES MILITARY ACADEMY, WEST POINT, NEW YORK. 



THE UNITED STA7ES OF AMERICA. ^9 



















'.^■V'^.i^^':^-*^^*^* 




Z/f I/I COiOA/ll, 



Calof/tL. jfilantrY-cavplry.-Artillerv. 
MILITARY SERVICE OF THE UNITED STATES. 



SiRGUNT. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITEp STATES. 




"^'^U^ 



RAILWAY MAIL SERVICE. 




The Post-Office De- 
partment costs $72,- 
000,000 a year, and has a 
revenue of $66,000,000. 
Transporting mails costs 
$37,000,000, and post- 
masters' salaries, $15,- 
000,000. This depart- 
ment has introduced 
many remarkable im- 
provements, including 
the interesting system of 
the railway mail service, and sea post-offices. 
The United-States Light-House 
Board controls 1,167 light houses and 
lighted beacons, 28 light-ships, 280 fog-sig- 
iraLRioR OFAPosTAt'^'*' nals, 1,368 river-lights, 390 day beacons, 138 

whistlmg or bell buoys and 4,200 buoys. There are 34 
small vessels and 3,200 men employed. 

Finances. — The Government has received since its 
foundation (excluding loans) about $12,000,000,000. 
Of this amount, nearly $7,000,000,000 were from cus- 
toms, and $4,000,000,000 from internal revenue. The 
expenditures have been $12,500,000,000; for war, 
1,700,000,000; the navy, $1,200,000,000; pensions, 
51,400,000,000; interest, $2,700,000,000; and for other 
purposes, $2,500,000,000. The several States and Territories owe $223,000,000, net; the 
counties, $142,000,000, net ; and the 779 chief municipalities, $470,000,000, net. The debts 
are less than in 1880. The money now in circulation amounts to $1,500,000,000, one fourth 
in gold coin, nearly as much in United-States notes, one eighth each in National-bank notes 
and gold certificates, and one fourth in silver certificates and silver. The United-States Mint 
is at Philadelphia. The amount of clearances in the New- York Clcaring-House reaches 
nearly $34,000,000,000 a year, which exceeds the clearances of any other city in the world. 
There are 3,577 National 
banks, with a capital of 
$660, 000, 000, and a sur- 
plus of $223,000,000. 
The 921 savings-banks 
have $1,525,000,000 in 
deposits, and a surplus of 
$150,000,000. 

The Life -Saving 
Service has 178 stations 
on the Atlantic coast, 48 
on the Great Lakes, and 
II on the Pacific coast. 
It costs $1,000,000 a 
year, and in 189 1 saved 
$7,000,000 in property, 
and succored 551 ship- 
wrecked persons (only 42 
having been lost). united-states life-savinq service. 




-/^f/^^'" 



THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 




The Signal Ser- 
vice of the army was in -Vi 
1870 partly formed into \, 
a meteorological bureau, rf 
to study the scientific law O 
of storms, and predict 
the advance of storm- 
fields. It has 300 men 
in service, all over the 
Union, with headquarters 

at Washington. The accuracy of weather predictions 
increases yearly ; and the department is of great 
benefit to commerce and agriculture alike. 

Education in the public schools costs $140, 000,- 
000 a year (three fourths for salaries), the number of 
enrolled students exceeding 12,000,000, with an 
average daily attendance of 8,000,000. There are 
over 400 accredited universities and colleges, with 
8,000 instructors and 46,000 students, property valued 
at $147,000,000, and libraries containing 4,200,000 
volumes. The first American college was Harvard, 
founded in 1638, and still the most famous in the 
Republic. The College of William and Mary arose 
in Virginia in 1693 ; Yale College, in Connecticut, 
in 1700 ; and the College of New Jersey, in 1746. 

Newspapers number 19,400; 1,300 in New 
England, 3,700 in the Middle States, 10,100 in the 
West, 3,300 in the South, and 1,000 on the Pacific 
Coast. Their total yearly issues exceed 4,000,000,000. 
More than 4,000 books are published each year. 

Religion numbers in the United States 150,000 
churches, 100,000 clergymen, and 22,000,000 com- 
municants. The chief denominations are the Metho- 
dists, with 5,000,000 communicants; the Baptists, 
4,300,000 ; the Presbyterians, 1,200,000; the Luthe- 
rans, 1,000,000; and the Congregationalists and 
Episcopalians, about 500,000 each. The Catholic 
population exceeds 8,000,000; and there are 250,000 
Jews. The Sunday schools number 120,000, with 
1,200,000 teachers and 9,000,000 pupils. The 1,300 
Young Men's Christian Associations have 200,000 
members, l,loo general secretaries, $10,000,000 ni 
property, and yearly outlays of nearly 
$2,000,000. Thereare 225 Young Women's 
Christian Associations, 6,000 societies of 
the Epworth League, 150,000 King's 
Daughters, and 10,000 Young People's So- 
cieties of Christian Endeavor, with 600,- 
000 members. The Freemasons have 
650,000 American members; the Odd 
Fellows, 650,000; the Knights of Pythias, 264,000; and the Royal Arcanum, 120,000. 
There are 400,000 comrades of the Grand Army of the Republic. 



WASHINGTON 



AL OFFICE AND FLAGS 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




UNITED-STATES NAVAL ACADEMY, ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND. 



THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 




Cfiarlf^dnn 



'Maine fVIrf-r Y/^^a.^ d^iJ^tn^ff Otn'f^tt/ 

NAVAL SERVICE OF THE UNITED STATES. 



A'/VJ rrtwi.i\rti 



24 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



HT S\\\P 




AMERICAN LIGHT-HOUSE SERVICE. 



Immigrants to the num- 
ber of 16,000,000 have come 
to the United States. The 
European immigrants landing 
5-iT at United-States ports during 
the last ten years numbered 
5,246,613, besides, probably 
1,500,000 entering by way of 
L I iciuiJ Canada. They have been 

made up of one third Germans, one fourth Britons and Irish, 
one tenth each of Scandinavians and Canadians, and from 
four to six per cent, each of Austro-IIungarians, Russians 
and Italians. Minnesota and Dakota have foreign -born 
populations equal to one half the natives. Massachusetts, 
Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, Michigan, Wiscon- 
sin and Nebraska have foreign-born people equal to more 
than one fourth of the natives. The South has attracted 
but little immigration, Virginia, the Carolinas, Georgia, 
Alabama, and Mississippi having less than one per cent, of 
foreign-born inhabitants. Texas has eight per cent. The 
immigration of Chinamen, other than officials, students, 
merchants and tourists, is stringently forbidden by Con- 
gress. An act of Congress approved in 18S2 forbids the 
landing on American shores of foreign-born convicts, luna- 
tics, idiots, or persons liable to become a pul)lic charge ; 
and thousands of immigrants have been sent back to 
Europe under this law. An act passed in 1885 forbids 
the landing of aliens under contract to labor here. 

The Public Lands of the United States in- 
cluded all the vast areas outside the thirteen original 
States (except Kentucky, Tennessee and Texas). The 
original area of the Union, and the Northwestern 
Territory, included about 850,000 square miles, to 
which 1,850,000 were added by the Louisiana Pur- 
chase and the Mexican cessions, 60,000 by the pur- 
chase of Florida from Spain, 50,000 by the Gadsden 
Purchase from Mexico, and 266,000 by the annexa- 
tion of Texas. Alaska was bought from Russia in 
1S67, for $7,200,000, but it may not be considered as 
a field for colonization. Exclusive of Alaska, the pub- 
lic lands amounted to 2,837,000 square miles. Over a 
billion acres, including nearly all that is of value, has 
been sold for cash, 



or granted for 
schools, military bounties, swamp-land and railroad 
grants, and homesteads. Most of the available land has 
passed into the hands of individuals and corporations. 

The Centre of Population in the United States 
in 1790 was 23 miles east of Baltimore; in 1800, 18 
miles west of Baltimore; in 1810, 40 miles northwest 
by west of Washington; in 1820, 16 miles north of Wood- 
stock (Va.); in 1830, 19 miles southwest of Moorefield 




NEW YORK : THE CUSTOM HOUSE. 



THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



25 



(W. Va.); in 1840, 16 miles south of Clarksburg (W. Va.); in 1850, 23 miles southeast 
of Parkersburg (W. Va.); in i860, 20 miles south of Chillieothe (Ohio), in 1S70, 48 
miles east by north of Cincinnati ; \\\ 1880, eight miles west by soutii of Cincinniti , and in 
189Q, 20 miles east of Colum- _; ^^ . 

bus, Indiana, • - ^ ^ '^''^ fA 

near the vil- 
lage of West- 
port. The cen- 
tre of popula- 
t i o n o f t h e 
United States 
has thus trav- 
eled westward 




I'- 



THE UNITED-STATES BARGE-OFTICE. 



AHBOrl ; tLLia Ibl-ANU AND THc .NtW 
IMMIGRATION BUILDING. 

from the Eastern Shore of 
;^4^'. Maryland, where it stood in 

"''^-— Washington's administra- 
tion, to Decatur County, in 
southern Indiana. During 
all this century of " West- 
\,.^__ ward the Star of Empire 
;Ste-_2zr takes its Way," the centres 
^ '- of population have kept 
within 25 miles of the 39th 
parallel of latitude, moving toward the Pacific Coast 505 miles, almost on a direct line. The 
annexation of Florida and the migration into the Southwest pulled the centre below 39° in 
1830 ; and in 1890 it moved well north of the parallel, by reason of the development of the 
Northwest and the State of Washington, and the increase of population in New England. 

The Railroads of the United States have cost $9,000,000,000, and employ 1,000,000 
persons. There are over 200,000 miles of track, with 30,000 locomotives, 27,000 passen- 
ger-cars, and over 1,100,000 other cars. Their capital stock is $4,640,000,000, with 
funded debts of $4,800,000,000, yearly traffic earnings of $1,000,000,000 (two thirds from 
freight), net earnings of $318,000,000, and dividends of $84,000,000 yearly. The Ameri- 
can telegraph lines extend for 250,000 miles, with 800,000 miles of wire, 26,000 offices, and 
42,000 employees, mostly pertaining to the Western Union system. 

Manufactories in i860 numbered 140,000, using $1,000,000,000 in materials, with a 
yearly product of .$1,900,000,000. In 1880, they numbered 254,000, using $3,400,000,000 in 
materials, and producing $5,370,000,000 yearly. The annual product of flouring and grist 
mills was $500,000,000; of slaughter-houses, $300,000,- 
ooo; of iron and steel works, $300,000,000 ; of woolens, 
$270,000,000; of lumber, $230,000,000; of foundry pio- 
ducts, cotton goods, men's clothing, and boots 
and shoes, about $200,000,000 each. Two 
thirds of the manufactures are in New England 
and New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania. 
The Cities are growing much faster than 
the country. In 1 790 there were only six cities 
with more than 8,000 inhabitants. By 1840, 
t^iese had increased to 44; in 1880, to 2S6 ; ^^ 
and in 1890, to 443. In 1790 there was no 
city with as many as 100,000 inhabitants; 
but in 1890 there were 28. Pennsylvania united states mint, at Philadelphia. 




26 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



The progress of the United States has been rich in benefits to the world, and has been 
marlced by the development of many illustrious men. In invention, she has produced Morse 
and Fulton, Edison and Whitney ; in science, Silliman and Dana ; in military science. Grant 
and Sherman and Sheridan ; in statesmanship, Washington and Jefferson, Franklin and 
Lincoln ; and in oratory, Webster and Clay. To the romancers of the world she has given 
Hawthorne and Cooper and Howells ; to the poets, Longfellow and Whittier, Holmes and 
Bryant ; to the historians, the Bancrofts and Parkman, Prescott and Motley ; to the essayists, 
Lowell and Emerson ; and to the masters of literary style, Washington Irving. The 
Union of States still nobly advances, marvellous in her potentialities, and at peace with all 

the world. And within her 1 — . . own borders, the sometime 

forgetful States have nobly -.=s=»^ returned to the doctrine of 

their old-time Revolution- ^^ ^ '^^. ''^'^ hero, Patrick Henry, 

who said: "The distinc- .^^^t v ' '^^ i\on^ between Virginians, 

Pennsylvanians, New- ^^^^^ ^ ^ — ^ Yorkers, and New-Eng- 

landers, are no more. I ^^^f k \' ~^~^ -"^^^^-^^ am not a Virginian, but an 
American." And now, ^^»^la^\^ t '^ ^ --^ more than ever, there is 
full truth in Jefferson's ^^^^ ll '^^ ^ words: "The cement of 

the Union is in the heart- ^^^%r^i/ blood of every American." 

In its perilous phases sec- ^^P|i^v ^^ ^ tionalism has passed away, 

and remains now mainly as ^^*^| rt^Kt^^ ^ proper local and home- 

stead pride. Gen. Sherman ^^^iC^Mm^^MM^ wrote: "Every American 

should be proud of his ^^^^^^^Hl^^ whole country, rather than 

of a part. Therefore, I ^^^^^^*°^ l^gpg g^j^j pj-^y that the new 

men of the South will culti- ' vate a pride in the whole 

United States of America, instead of the mere State of birth. How much more sublime 
the thought that you live at the root of a tree whose branches reach the beautiful fields of 
western New York and the majestic canons of the Yellowstone, and that with every draught 
of water you take the outflow of the pure lakes of Minnesota and drippings of the dews of 
the Alleghany and Rocky Mountains." Millions of Americans are growing into this broader 
Nationalism, the spirit of Philip Nolan, as he said to the young naval ensign : "Remember, 
boy, that behind all these men you have to do with, behind officers and Government and 
people, even, there is the Country Herself, your Country, and that you belong to Her as 
you belong to your own mother." 

Acknowledgment. — In his ej^ort to make this Handbook of the United States a 
portrayal of the chief traits of the Great Repiddic, historic, scenic, economic, and industrial, the 
author has been put tinder many obligations. It was not enough that the description of each 
State shoidd be illustrated by scores of pictures and explained by a netv map engraved for the 
purpose. Multitudes of facts, accounts, descriptions and statistics had to be collected from all 
sources. In the two years devoted to this search the author has received the kindest assistance 
from the public officials, both State and N'ational. They have not only furnished hundreds of 
volumes of the latest official reports, but fiave in many instances written out special mono- 
graphs to be used in t/ie Handbook. Citizens prominent in public life and in literature, 
-without even tfie sligfit claim upon their attention that an official position might give, have 
revised the manuscript and en7-iched it by tJieir suggestions. To statesmen like Sherman of 
Ohio, Dolph of Oregon, Stewart of Nevada, Hampton of South Carolina, Bayard of Dela- 
ware, Miller of Iowa, Ligalls of Kansas, Prince of New Mexico, Fitzhugh Lee of Virginia, 
— and to men of letters, like A ngell of Michigan, Cable of Louisiana, Petroff of Alaska, 
MitcJiell of Cojtnecticut, Thwaites of Wisconsin, Goodell of J\Iassachusetts, and Bancroft of 
California, no thanks adequate to tfie services tliey Iiave rendered ca.n be given. While to tlie 
author and the publisher belongs the responsibility for tlie sJiort-comings of the book, a great part 
of its merits is due to the generous assistance of these and many otiier distinguisfied Americans. 




Settled at Mobile Bay. 

Settled in 1702 

Founded by ... . Frenchmen. 

Admitted to the U. S., . . 1819 

Population in i860, . . . 964,201 

In 1870 996,992 



IEN\J\^' 



In I 

In 1890 (U. S. Censu 

White, 

Colored, 

Voting Population, . . 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 
Vote for Cleveland (1888) 
Net Public Debt, 
Area (square miles). 



1,262,505 

1,513.017 

830,796 

1.431 

259,884 

57.197 

i), 117,320 

$11,992,619 

. . 52,250 



At the dawn of her his- 
tory, Alabama contained 

four tribes of aborigines, the 

civilized and hospital Cher- 

okees, in the northeast, in 

a region that they always 

called Chiaha ; the warlike 

and heroic Chickasaws, in 

the northwest, along the 
Tennessee, the Tombigbee and the Upper Yazoo ; the 
friendly Choctaws, in the west and southwest ; and the Mus- 
cogees (or Creeks), called by Bancroft "the most powerful 
nation north of the Gulf of Mexico," west of the Ocmulgee. 
The first historical mention of Alabama deals with the 
marches of Hernando De Soto, the Spanish cavalier, with 
620 knights and priests, crossbowmen and arquebusiers of 
Spain, who landed at Tampa Bay, crossed Georgia, and 
entered Alabama in July, 1540 (80 years before the Pil- 
grims arrived at Plymouth). The army visited Coosa, 
Tallasee, and other Indian towns, in search of a land of 
gold; and then marched by Piachee to Maubila (whence 
comes the name of Mobile). Here they were fiercely at- 
tacked, and during a long day's battle in and around the 
burning town, the Spaniards defeated the natives, losing 
168 men, and slaying 2,500. Thence the European army 
moved through the lonely land of Pafallaya, and up the 
Tombigbee Valley into Mississippi, fighting many a bloody 
battle, and enduring and causing frightful sufferings. One 
hundred and sixty-two years later, the Sieur de Bienville, 
"the Father of Alabama," transferred his French colony 
from Biloxi to Dog River, on Mobile Bay, and erected Fort 
St. Louis de la Mobile. In 1711, he moved to the present 
site of Mobile. A few years later, English traders from 
Georgia built a stockade at Ocfuskee ; and Gen. Oglethorpe 
made a treaty with the Muscogees, at Coweta. After the cession of the trans-Alleghany 
country to Great Britain, at the peace of 1763, the part of Alabama south of Selma and 
Montgomery was included in the district of West Florida, and the unsettled country to the 



U. S. Representatives (1893), 9 

Militia (Disciplined), . . . 2,954 

Counties 67 

Post-offices 2,028 

Railroads (miles) 3.422 

Manufactures (yearly in 

1880), $13,566,000 

Operatives, 10,019 

Yearly Wages, . . . $2,500,000 

Farm Land (in acres), . 18,855,000 

Farm-Land Values, . $79,000,000 

Farm Products (yearly) $57,000,000 

School Children, enrolled, 259,432 

Newspapers 180 

Latitude, .... 3o''i3' to 35° N. 
Longitude, . . 7°5i' to io°38' W, 

Temperature 5° to 107" 

Mean Temperature (Mobile), 66" 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Mobile 3I1O76 

Birmingham, 26,178 

Montgomery, 21,883 

Anniston, 9.998 

Huntsville 7,995 

Selma, 7,622 

Florence, 6,012 

Bessemer, 4,544 

Eufaula 4.394 

Tuskaloosa, 4.215 



28 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




ft' 



MONTGOMERY : SOLDIERS' 
MONUMENT. 



north belonged to the district of Illinois. Montgomery lay in Florida, and Wetumpka in 
Illinois. The people here were so few, and so remote from the Atlantic settlements, that 
they did not unite with the Thirteen Colonies in their conflict with England. Envoys and 
agitators sent from the United States were seized and imprisoned in the stone keep of Fort 
Charlotte. When Spain declared war against the mother-country, Galvez, the governor of 
Louisiana, with 2,000 soldiers, besieged and captured Mobile, even then a French town. 
The Spaniards held the country until 1798, as a part of Florida. Georgia 
also claimed nearly all of Alabama and Mississippi, under her royal charter 
of 1665, and in 179S and 1 802 ceded them to the United States for $1,250,000. 
About 1790, American pioneers began to settle in the northern valleys. 
In 1798, Congress formed Mississippi and Alabama, from 31° to 32° 28', and 
between the Mississippi River and the Chattahoochee, into the Mississippi 
Territory ; and four years later, the Territorial boundary was carried north to 
the Tennessee line. The Indians ceded vast domains to the incoming Ameri- 
cans, by the treaties of 1805 ; but Tecumseh aroused the Creeks to war, and 
in 1813 they destroyed Fort Mimms, with its 500 inmates. Gen. 
Coffee retaliated by killing 186 Indians in battle at Tallaseehatchee ; 
Andrew Jackson won the fight atTalladega ; Gen. White destroyed 
Hillabee ; and after many other engagements, Jackson slew 600 
Creeks at the Horse-Shoe Bend, losing 210 men himself. In the 
30 engagements of the Creek war 4,000 Indians were killed. The 
Spanish power at Mobile was broken by Gen. Wilkinson's army from New Orleans, in 
1813 ; and a British attack on Fort Bowyer, at Mobile Toint, met a disastrous repulse, fol- 
lowed by Jackson's capture of Pensacola. In 1817, Congress organized the Territory of 
Alabama, with its present boundaries, and St. Stephens as the capital. Two years later, 
Alabama became a State, then having about 127,000 inhabitants, besides the Indians. Cahaba 
became the capital in 1820 ; Tuskaloosa, in 1826 ; and Montgomery in 1847. After frequent 
Indian wars, mainly with the Creeks, the tribes were removed to the Indian Territory, the 
Choctaws in 1830, the Chickasaws in 1834, the Cherokees in 1836, and the Creeks in 1837. 
The population in i860 included 526,271 whites, 435,080 negro slaves (owned by 30,000 
persons) and 2,690 free negroes. Alabama was then the fifth State in the value of its agri- 
cultural products, and the seventh in wealth. , ^ ^ 

Its valuation sunk from $792,000,000 in 
i860 to $202,000,000 in 1865 (partly due to 
the emancipation of the slaves). 

Late in i860 the National forts at Mobile 
were occupied by Alabama troops ; and in 
January, 186 1, by a. vote of 61 to 39, the 
State seceded from the Union. In the mourn- 
ful conflict which followed, she sent into the 
field 122,000 soldiers (in 69 regiments of 

infantry, 12 of cavalry, and 27 batteries), one fourth of vhom died 
in the Confederate service. The northern counties long rcmanied 
devoted to the Republic, and desired to erect themselves mto a new 
State. The chief local events were Forrest's capture of Streight's 
1,700 Union cavalry, in Cherokee County ; Rousseau's raid through 
the southern counties ; and Farragut's attack on Mobile, resulting in the capture of Forts 
Morgan and Gaines, and followed by the reduction of Spanish Fort, the storming of Blakely, 
and the occupation of Mobile (in April, 1865), by Gen. Canby's Union army of 45,000 men 
after much fighting. At the same time. Gen. Wilson, with 9,000 mounted troops from 
the north, stormed Selma, destroying the Arsenal and Navy Yard, and occupied Montgomery. 
Several thousand white Alabamians served bravely in the National armies. 




Mi-SCLE SHOALS AND CANAi-S 



THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



29 




THE ALABAMA RIVER. 



The re-establishment of the National power was 
followed by unhappy years of carpet-bag adminis- 
tration, when the treasury of the State suffered 
from venal legislation, and her standard eight 
per cent, bonds fell to 20 cents on the dollar. 
Emerging at last from this cloud, Alabama has re- 
sumed her place as one of the most conservative of 
the Southern States, with a strong and capable 
"white man's government." Within ten years a 
wonderful and unexampled development of mineral 
wealth has gone forward, in the northern part of 
the State, which is already entering into competition with Pennsylvania as a producer of coal 
and iron. The output of pig-iron alone mounted from 449,492 tons in 1888 to 791,425 
in 1889, and is still increasing, and building up new cities. 

The Name of Alabama comes from its chief river, the word being of Indian origin 
and unknown meaning. There is a poetic legend that an exiled Indian tribe reached the 
great river, and its chief struck his spear into the shore exclaiming, Alabama! — that is to 
say : "Here we rest." Fragments of the Alabama tribe now live in Texas and Louisiana. 
Alabama is sometimes called The Cotton-Planta- 
tion State. 

The Arms of Alabama bear an eagle, with raised 
wings, alighting upon the National shield, and bear- 
ing three arrows in his left talon. He holds in his 
beak a floating streamer, inscribed with the words 
HERE WE REST. This nobly patriotic device was 
adopted in 1868, to replace the older seal, a rude out- 
line map of Alabama fastened to a tree. 

The Governors of Alabama have been William 
WyattBibb, 1817-20 ; Thomas Bibb, 1820-21 ; Israel 
Pickens, 1821-25; John Murphy, 1825-9; Samuel 
B. Moore, 1829-31; John Gayle, 1831-5 ; Clement Comer Clay, 1835-7; Hugh McVay, 
1837; Arthur Pendleton Bagby, 1 837-41 ; Benjamin Fitzpatrick, 1841-5 ; Reuben Chap- 
man, 1847-9; Henry Watkins Collier, 1849-53; John Anthony Winston, 1853-7; Andrew 
Barry Moore, 1857-61 ; John Gill Shorter, 1861-3 ; Thomas Hill Watts, 1S63-5 ; Lewis 
Eliphalet Parsons, 1865 (provisional) ; Robert Miller Patton, 1865-8 ; William Henry Smith, 
1868-70; Robert Burns Lindsay, 1870; David C. Lewis, 1872-4; (jeorge Smith Houston, 
1874-8 ; Rufus W. Cobb, 1878-82 ; Edward Asbury O'Neal, 1 882-6 ; Thomas Seay, 1886-90 ; 
and Thos. G. Jones, 1890-2. 

Descriptive. — Alabama is from 150 to 202 miles wide, between Georgia and Missis- 
sippi, and from 278 to 336 miles long, between Tennessee and Florida and the Gulf of 
Mexico. It is larger than New York or Pennsylvania, Virginia or England. The northeast 

contains the declining Alleghany ridges, melting 
away toward the south into a broken hill-country, 
and then into extensive plains, which for 60 miles 
inland are almost on the sea-level. There are 
four great divisions of the State — the cereal, 
mineral, cotton, and timber regions. The beauti- 
ful Tennessee Valley, in the temperate and health- 
ful north, is a rich agricultural country, rising 
toward the east into the long blue highlands of 
the Raccoon and Lookout ranges. The Alabama 
section of the valley is 200 miles long and 20 




MOBILE : THE SHELL ROAD. 




3° 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MOBILE : GOVERNMENT STREET. 



miles wide, covering eight counties, with 180,000 inhabitants. This is the Cereal Belt, its 
fertile red lands producing grains and grasses, cotton and fruits, with noble mountain-walls 
sheltering it alike from the icy northern winds and the intense heats of the southern plains, 
and traversed by rich lateral valleys, abounding in farms. The 
Mountain and Mineral Region covers the northeast, and the 
Alleghany Mountains, which open out across all north-central 
Alabama, with 5,500 square miles of rich coal-meas- 
ures, and vast deposits of iron-ore and limestone. It in- 
cludes 28 counties, with 40dfooo inhabitants. The 
Agricultural Region, 70 miles wide, clear across the 
State, comes next, between 33° and 31° 40', in the rot- 
ten limestone formation, scarce of water, but on the 
west occupied by fertile bald prairie and wooded prairie. 
This is the celebrated Black Belt, or Cane-Brake Region, 
where the negroes greatly predominate in numbers, raising 
vast quantities of cotton from the richest of lands. It in- 
cludes 17 counties, with over 500,000 inhabitants. The Piney-Woods Region extends from 
the Black Belt to the Gulf, more than a hundred miles wide, abounding in long-leaf and yel- 
low pine, and low and miasmatic along the rivers and coast, but elsewhere undulating, with 
a sandy soil. The summers are long, but tempered by the Gulf 
breezes, and vary between 73° and 94°. Here grow the magnolia 
and the sweet-bay, gigantic water-oaks and live-oaks, black gums 
and venerable cypresses. Turpentine and rosin are valued pro- 
ducts ; and vast quantities of lumber are shipped thence. The 
land is very cheap ; and the exporting of naval stores is facilitated 
by the navigable bays and entrances along the coast. 

The Gulf coast of Alabama, only 50 miles long, is broken 
by Mobile Bay, entering the land for 30 miles, and navigable 
by an artificial channel for vessels drawing 19 feet of water. The 
deep and broad Mobile River, 50 miles long, enters the bay 
at its head. It is formed by the powerful Alabama (312 miles long, and from 600 to 800 
feet broad), and the Tombigbee (navigable for 393 miles, to Fulton). The Black Warrior (300 
miles long) is navigable from Tuskaloosa to its union with the Tombigbee, at Demopolis. 
The Coosa is 355 miles long, navigable for its lower ten miles, up to the falls at Wetumpka, 
above which there are 145 miles of rapids and rough waters. At Greensport begins another 
navigable reach, 180 miles long, to Rome, furnishing trade for six steamboats. The Talla- 
poosa is a picturesque stream 225 miles long, without commerce, on account of its rapid 
waters. The Chattahoochee may be ascended for 350 miles, to Columbus. The noble Ten- 
nessee River, heading southward from Virginia toward the Gulf, is repelled by the rocky bar- 
riers of northern Alabama, and sweeps around toward the north, with 250 miles of its course 
within this State, navigable by steamboats from Decatur 
to Knoxville, and from Florence to the Ohio River. The 
rocky Muscle Shoals long prevented the passage of 
steamboats between Decatur and Florence (38 miles). 
The Government has spent $4,000,000 in building a 
canal around the Shoals, and in 1889 the first steam- 
boat traversed this avenue of commerce. 

The Climate of Alabama shows a mean yearly 
temperature of 65. tP (and 53^ inches of rainfall) at Mont- 
gomery, and 66. 7° (and 64^ inches of rainfall) at Mobile. 
The variations are from 82° to 18° Fahrenheit in winter, and from 105° to 60° in summer. 
This is the temperature of Sydney, Valparaiso and Algiers. The autumn and winter winds 




MOBILE : COTTON EXCHANGE. 




GREENSBORO : SOUTHERN UNIVERSITY. 



THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



31 



are from the northeast and northwest ; the sumn>er winds from the southeast. The pic- 
turesque hill-country is cool and healthy, with a genial and temperate climate. The lowland 
counties sometimes suffer from summer heat, and from malaria along the Gulf and rivers, 
and intermittent and congestive fevers. Snow is seldom seen, and the rivers never freeze over. 
Agriculture employs 400,000 Alabamians, on 140,000 farms, with $80,000,000 worth of 
land and buildings, $4,000,000 in machinery, and $25,000,000 in live stock, the yearly pro- 
ducts being valued at $57,000,000. The latter include 700,000 bales of cotton, 450,000 
pounds of tobacco, 810,000 pounds of rice, 40,000,000 bushels of cereals (mainly corn and 
oats) and 52,000 tons of hay. Cotton, the great staple of Alabama, grows mainly in the Black 
Belt and the Tennessee and Coosa valleys. Mississippi, Georgia, and Texas alone surpass 
Alabama in this product. There are 114,000 horses, 121,000 mules, 800,000 cattle, 350,000 
sheep, and 1,400,000 swine. The dairy products are 8,000,000 pounds of butter and 270,000 

gallons of milk. During the decade of 
the Secession War, over 1,000,000 acres 
of Alabama farms relapsed into the wil- 
derness, and the live-stock and farm- 
products were reduced by one-half. The 
totals of production in i860 have never 
been reached 





LANDS OF THE ALABAMA LAND AND DEVELOPMENT CO. 



since. The de- 
cadence of Ala- 
bama as an agri- 
cultural State is at- 
tributed by Dr. Hil- 
gard to the exhaus- 
tion of her soil by 
improvident culture, 
and by Col. Milner to 
the dearth of labor, 
caused by the indolence of the negroes, 
now no longer compelled to woik. 
Latterly, improved methods are being 
adopted, with increased willingness to 
labor and intelligence in adaptation. 
Supplies are produced at home, crops 
are diversified, and increased attention is paid to stock-raising and grasses. The soil is rich 
and productive, except in the south, much of which is sandy, and occupied by noble pine 
woods. In the north and centre are large forests of oaks, pines, hickories, poplars, chest- 
nuts, cedars, mulberries, elms and cypresses. There are extensive areas of public lands, 
the land-office being at Montgomery. 

Along the borders of Alabama and Mississippi, from Aberdeen to the Gulf, extends a belt 
of 850,000 acres of land, traversed and owned by the Mobile & Ohio Railroad, and controlled 
by the Alabama Land and Development Company, of Mobile. Parts of this imperial domain 
lie in the prairie and flat-woods belts, but most of its Alabama section is in the long-leaf- 
pine belt of Washington and Mobile counties, a region of sandy loam, cultivated with extra- 
ordinary ease, and already largely devoted to truck and fruit farms. The National Government, 
through the States of Alabama and Mississippi, granted these lands to the railway, which 
sells them at from $1.50 to $15 an acre, with long credits. Large areas have already been 
thus disposed of in Washington County, the oldest county in the State, and the seat of St. 
Stephens, its first capital ; and other tracts have been taken up near Mobile, on the west. 
The genial climate renders it possible to raise several crops yearly, with level and shallow 
cultivation, and skillful fertilizing. ' 



32 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




COLLEGE, NEAR MOBILE. 



In this beautiful and highly diversified Commonwealth there is almost every variety of 
scenery, climate and product. Thus immigrants and investors find interest in Escambia's 
great forests of yellow-heart pine ; Blount's deep caverns and famous apple-orchards ; the 

gray prairies of Bullock and Butler ; the ham- 
mocks of Conecuh ; the Tyrolese scenery of 
Etowah and Marshall ; the alluvial cane-brake 
region of Marengo; the corn-lands of Mont- 
gomery and Wilcox ; the coal-fields of Walker 
and Jefferson ; the gold mines of Talladega ; and 
many other features of the mountain and plain 
counties. 
The Minerals of Alaljama are of great in- 
terest, and their development seems likely to change the State from an agricultural region to 
a manufacturing and mining country of almost limitless resources. The Black-Warrior, 
Coosa and Cahaba coal-fields and iron-beds are capable of enormous development. The 
iron ore in sight is of an incalculable amount, the Red-Mountain vein alone being 30 feet 
thick, half a mile wide and 100 miles long. The close proximity of inexhaustible supplies of 
bituminous coal makes this region, with its genial climate and rich agricultural valleys, the 
cheapest place in the world to manufacture iron. Within 15 years the output of pig-iron 
in Alabama has increased twenty-fold, and the State now ranks next to Pennsylvania anti 
Ohio. The strata are from six to 150 feet deep, and include red hematite and brown ores. 
There are 50 blast-furnaces in opera- 
tion, producing yearly 1,000,000 tons 
of pig-iron. The coal yield has risen 
to 3,380,000 tons. Am^)ng other 
mineral products are granite, white 
and colored marble in great quanti- 
ties and variety (near Talladega), 
flagstones, roofing-slate, lime, soap- 
stone, asbestos, porcelain-clay, ochre, 
and mang.anese. Gold, copper, graphite, lead and corundum are also found. The State con- 
tains many mineral waters, such as the Blount, Shelby, Bladon, Talladega, Jackson, White 
Sulphur and St. Clair Springs, all of which are sulphurous. There are also chalybeate and 
saline springs. At these points stand hotels for health-seekers, open all the year, and much 
visited by the aristocracy of the Gulf cities. Bladon Springs are in the Piney Woods, four 
miles from the Alabama River, with carbonated alkaline water ; Blount Springs, in a trian- 
gular valley, 1,580 feet above the sea ; and Bailey Springs, on the highlands near the Muscle 
Shoals, nine miles from Florence. The Hotel Monte Sano, near Huntsville, and 1,691 feet 
above the sea, has valuable iron and alum waters, with beautiful scenery and invigorating air. 
The Hygeia Hotel is a sanitarium at Citronelle, 30 miles north of Mobile, in the pine- 
woods ; and Spring Hill, overlooking Mobile and the bay, 
has a similar institution, together with many delightful villas. 
Anniston, Verbena and Mountain Creek are popular vaca- 
tion-resorts in the hill-country ; and many health-seekers 
visit Evergreen, in the great pine-woods. The foremost of 
the salt-water pleasure-resorts is Point Clear, near the blue 
waters of Mobile Bay. 

Government. — The governor is elected for two years, 
the president of the Senate succeeding in case of removal. 
The secretary of State, treasurer, auditor, attorney -general, 
commissioner of agriculture, and superintendent of public instruction also hold for two years. 
The General Assembly, composed of 33 senators and 100 representatives (126 Democrats 




EAST LAKt : HOWARD COLLEGE. 




MOBILE : HIGH SCHOOL. 



THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



2>Z 




BIRMINGHAM : UNION DEPOT. 



and seven others), has biennial sessions, of not more than 50 days. The civil divisions of the 
counties are called "beats" or precincts, instead of townships or parishes. The judiciary 
includes the Supreme Court, with four justices ; the ten districts of the circuit courts, with 
judges elected by the people for six years ; the five chancellors 
of the courts of chancery in equity cases (established in 1839), 
and the probate courts. There are United-States District 
Courts at Birmingham, Montgomery and Mobile. The Capi- 
tol, at Montgomery, is a substantial building with a 
many-columned Grecian portico, and a high dome. It 
stands on Capitol Hill, at the head of Dexter Avenue, 
and dates from 1849. Here the Confederate Govern- 
ment was organized, February 6, 1 861, and the Con- 
federate Congress held its earlier sessions. 
The Alabama State Troops have shown great efficiency 
at different times, when called out to support the civil authorities. They are armed with 
Spi'ingfield breech-loaders, the artillery including Catlings, Napoleons and three-inch rifles. 
The First Regiment has its headquarters at Mobile ; the Second, at Birmingham ; and the 
Third at Selma. There are four batteries and two troops attached to the regiments. Mobile 
and Montgomery have colored companies. The State Troops hold regiment- ^ al encamp- 
ments, for a week in summer, and are inspected by United- States 
army officers. 

Charities and Corrections. — The Institution for the 
Deaf and Dumb, at Talladega, was opened in i860, and has 
53 inmates (whites). The Alabama Academy for the Blind, 
formerly united with the above-named, became mdependent 
in 1887. It has 30 pupils (whites). The State Insane 
Asylum was opened at Tuskaloosa, in 1 861, and has 340 
inmates. The State Penitentiary at Wetumpka dates from 
1 84 1. The county convicts are farmed out to contractors, 
and kept in private prisons and convict-camps, where they formerly suffered incalcula- 
bly from cruel punishments, vermin and sickness, until, in many cases, death set them free. 
Recently, marked improvement has been made in this system. The Rev. F. H. Wines of 
Illinois pronounces Alabama's to be the best example of the lease system in the Union. The 
majority of the able-bodied convicts work in the mines near Birmingham. The report of the 
State health officers for 1889 showed a mortality of 20 per cent, in the Coalburg prison- 
camp. Alabama has 1,500 insane persons, 2,200 idiots, 1,400 blind, 700 deaf-mutes, 700 
paupers, and 1,400 prisoners. 

National Institutions. — The Mount- Vernon Barracks occupy a high plateau 28 
miles , north of Mobile, with their massive buildings amid oak and magnolia 

groves, surrounded by heavy brick walls. This is one of the handsomest 
posts of the army; and dates from 1829, when Andrew Jackson ordered 
an arsenal to be established here, on the site of one of 
his favorite camp-grounds. In 1873 it was trans- 
formed into a barrack, now occupied by part of 
the 4th United-States Artillery. In 1S89-91 
Geronimo, Nana, Loco, and 380 other Arizona 
Apaches, prisoners of war, were quartered here, 
under active religious and educational influences. 
The United-States Marine Hospital is at Mobile. 
Fort Morgan, 30 miles south of Mobile, was 
founded in 1819, on the site of Fort Bowyer, and cost $1,250,000. Fort Gaines is a pen- 
tagonal work on Dauphin Island, three miles from Fort Morgan, across the channel. Neither 




BIRMINGHAM : COURT-HOUSE. 




MONTGOMERY : COLORED SCHOOLS. 



34 



JTING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



,Mw#>, 




HUNTSVILLE : THE POST-OFFICE. 



of these works is garrisoned. The lighthouses arc on Sand Island, Mobile Point (Fort Mor- 
gan), Dog-River Bar, Choctaw Pass and Battery Gladden. 

Education, in its higher forms, began with Greene Academy, at Hmitsville, in 1812. A 
good public-school system was inaugurated in 1854, but the war and reconstruction crippled 
it seriously. The normal schools have all been founded since 1872, and contain 1,200 stu- 
dents. The normal schools for whites are at Florence, Jacksonville, Livingston and Troy. 
In 1880, Alabama, out of a population of 1,262,505, had 433,447 persons above the age of 
ten who could not write. This appalling army of illiterates is mainly composed of negroes 
and rustics ; ^ and the local educators are making earnest efforts to secure more and 

better means to reduce the prevailing ignorance. Ala- 
bama has a school population of 485,551, with an aver- 
age daily attendance of 162,516. The school age is from 
7 to 21 ; the average duration of the school year, 155 
days in the cities, and 70 days in the country ; the yearly 
expense, .$750,000. The Teachers' Reading Circle, the 
Colored Teachers' Association, the State Teachers' As- 
sociation (white), the Congressional (District) Teachers' 
Institutes, and other active agencies are achieving a good 
work in raising the educational standard. 
The University of Alabama occupies an estate of 500 acres, at Tuskaloosa, with 18 pro- 
fessors and 240 students. It was opened in 1831, and has an endowment of $300,000, from 
lands granted by Congress in 1802, and held in trust by the State, which pays eight per cent, 
a year. The National troops burned the building, in 1865 ; and there are now four new edi- 
fices, enclosing a quadrangle, with Clark Hall, containing the great hall and the library (of 
9,000 volumes). The three courses are classical, scientific, and civil engineering, with a law 
department containing 19 pupils. Military training is a prominent feature. The State Agri- 
cultural and Mechanical College, at Auburn, in the Cereal Belt, arose in 1872, as one of the 
National land-grant schools of science ; and has 12 instructors and 250 pupils. The Southern 
University, at Greensboro, pertains to the M. E. Church South, and has 12 instructors and 
220 students. Before the war it was a rich institution, and it is now slowly regaining its former 
dignity. Howard College is a Baptist institution, founded in 1842, at Marion, and since 1887 
located at East Lake, five miles from Birmingham, in the Ruhama Valley. Spring-Hill Col- 
lege is a Catholic institution near Mobile, opened in 1830, and with 100 students. The 
Medical College of Alabama was founded in 1859, at Mobile, and has 12 instructors and lOO 
students. There are 35 academies, with 6,000 students, including the colleges for women at 
Anniston, Tuskaloosa, Tuskegee, Huntsville, Tuscum- 
bia, Athens, Eufaula, Florence and Talladega. 

The colored people of Alabama have four normal 
schools, those at Huntsville and ?>Iobile being older than 
the white normal schools. The State Normal and In- 
dustrial School was founded in 1881, as an outgrowth 
of the Hampton (Va.) school, and has been very suc- 
cessfully conducted by Booker T. Washington, an emi- 
nent colored educator. Its corn-fields, orchards, work- 
shops and buildings occupy an old plantation near the 
patrician town of Tuskegee, in the Black Belt. The State makes a yearly appropriation, 
paying part of the expenses of this school, which has 600 earnest and industrious students. 
Talladega College was founded by the American Missionary Association in 1867, and has 
several buildings, and large tracts of farm-lands. There are 427 colored students, none of 
them collegiate. The theological school for Congregational ministers is at Talladega ; that 
for Baptists is at Selma University ; and the Presbyterians conduct an institute for training 
colored ministers, at Tuskaloosa. 




HUNTSVILLE : COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 



THE ST A TE OF ALABAMA. 



35 




BIRMINGHAM : SLOSS IRON & STEEL CO. 



The State has 3,000 Sunday schools, with 20,000 
teachers and 160,000 pupils. The religious pro- 
clivities of the people incline toward the Methodist 
and Baptist sects, the first having above 200,000 
members, and the second 175,000. There are 
12,000 Presbyterians, and 4,000 Episcopalians. 

Newspapers came to Alabama in 181 2, when 
Pasham started the Madison Gazette at Huntsville. 
St. Stephens followed with The Halcyon, in 1814; 
Mobile with The Gazette, in 1816 ; and Tuskaloosa 
with The Republican, in 1818. The Florence Ga- 
zette, Montgomery Republican and Claiborne Clarion 
appeared in 1820. Alabama now has 169 newspapers (15 daily, 144 weekly, and 8 monthly), 
with an average circulation of 681 copies. Prominent among these are the Mobile Register 
(founded in 1820), Montgomery Advertiser {I'iz'i'), Selma Times- Mail(^\%Z^~), and Birming- 
ham Age-Herald. 

The Chief Cities of Alabama (except Mobile) are modern, and some of them have risen 
with marvelous rapidity in the last 15 years. Mobile, successively French, English, Span- 
ish and American, and the commercial metropolis of Alabama, is one of the chief cotton- 
depots in the Union, and sends away 230,000 bales 
yearly, mainly by railway. There is also a large 
trade in lumber and timber, general merchandise 
and coffee, coal and naval stores, besides many 
profitable manufactures. The broad and quiet 
streets are shaded throughout with live-oaks and 
magnolias, and the gardens are fragrant with the 
perfumes of the jessamine and the orange. Gov- 
ernment Street has many beautiful and embowered 
residences ; and the Shell Road is a famous harbor- 
side drive. The city enjoys extensive railway con- 
nections, and has steamship lines to New York and 
Liverpool. Montgomery, near the centre of the 
State, is a growing city, with artesian water, street-cars, and electric lights, a prosperous rail- 
way centre, and a winter resort for Northerners, who enjoy its soft air and embowered streets. 
It is one of the old-time Southern cities, with an environment of large-pillared country seats, 
nestling in live-oak groves, and a State Capitol overlooking a great expanse of country, 
through which flashes the silvery line of the Alabama River. Since 1865, the population 
has quintupled, and many factories have sprung up. One hundred and thirty thousand bales 
of cotton are handled here yearly. 

Birmingham, the foremost city of Alabama, is in Jones Valley, six miles from Red Moun- 
tain, which contains millions of tons of hematite iron ore, close to inexhaustible supplies of 

coal and limestone. Founded in 1871, by the Ely- 
ton Land Co. , it has become "the Magic City of the 
South," with the largest rolling mills below Rich- 
mond, manufacturing rail and bar iron, plate and 
sheet iron, and factories for making ice, glass, stoves, 
bridges, chains, steel cars, and many other articles. 
It is recorded that Krupp, the Iron King of Europe, 
said : "Should fate drive me from Germany, I would 
go to Birmingham, Alabama ; " and the London 
Times prophesied that this is bound to become 
ANNisTON : ST. MICHAEL'S AND ALL ANGELS. the greatest mctal-workcrs' city in America. The 




BIRMINGHAM ; SLOSS IRON i STEEL CO. 





■^6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

contiguity of the iron and coal makes it possible to produce the metal at the lowest possible 
cost for labor ; and the convergence here of six railways gives unusual facilities for shipment. 
Twenty-five furnaces are now at work in and near this city, giving cheap iron to the world. 
One of the pioneers in the astonishing development of Ala- 
bama's mining industries was the Sloss Furnace Company of 
Birmingham, which afterwards bought the Coalburg Coal and 
Coke Company, and formed the Sloss Iron and Steel Com- 
pany. This vigorous corporation has a paid-in capital of 
$3,700,000, and employs 3,500 men, with large mines, 800 
coke-ovens, and four furnaces, adequate to the production of 
450 tons of pig-iron daily. Here the world's problem of 
cheap iron is being solved, where the ore of Red Mountain, 
that mineral marvel of America, is manufactured into the 
best quality of metal, capable, with proper treatment, of suc- 
cessful competition with the finest Russian and Norway iron. 
At Birmingham, too, is the Morris Block, erected and 
owned by Josiah Morris, the millionaire banker of Montgom- 
BiHMiNGHAM ; JOSIAH MORRIS BLOCK, gj-y^ ~^\^q ^y^g Qj^g of '^^ earliest iuvcstors in the present city, 
and by whose aid the enterprise was carried through some of its earlier trials. This is one 
of the finest and costliest office buildings in the South, an architectural credit to the city, and 
thoroughly fire-proof. It is , ^_^^_^^.. _ ;^:;^=-_ 

occupied by banks and for of- 
fices of many kinds. Its up- 
per floors have been utilized 
as the Morris Hotel, on the 
European plan, the rooms be- 
ing the choicest in the city. 

Anniston, one of the love- 
liest cities of the South, and 
also one of the most remark- 
able centres of the iron indus- 
try in the country, rests on a 
healthy and pleasant plateau 
of northeastern Alabama, 900 feet above the sea, amid the picturesque wooded spurs of the 
Blue Ridge. Here the Georgia Pacific and the East-Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia Railroads 
intersect ; and the Alabama Mineral Railroad runs northwest to the Queen & Crescent sys- 
tem, at Attalla, and southwest to the Georgia Central system, at Sylacauga. Anniston is 
built upon and surrounded by enormous beds of brown hematite ore, easily accessible and 
cheaply mined, low in silica and phosphorus, and containing above 50 per cent, of metallic 
iron. The first-class coking coals of the Coosa and Cahaba mines are respectively within 
25 and 45 miles ; and the Anniston valley abounds in limestone for fluxing. Seven char- 
coal furnaces make yearly 50,000 tons of tough car- 
wheel iron; and two coke furnaces make 100,000 
tons of pig-iron. On this site a furnace was built 
and destroyed during the Civil War. Samuel No- 
ble, a practical English iron-worker, then running a 
foundry at Rome, Georgia, visited the ruins about 
the year 1870, and becoming impressed with the 
enormous deposits of excellent brown iron ore, 
bought up large areas, upon which the Woodstock 
Iron Company started its first furnace in 1873, and 
anniston: noble institute for boys. a second in 1879. Associated with Mr. Noble in 




ANNISTON : THE ANNISTON INN. 




THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 




the foundation of the city were Gen. Daniel Tyler and Alfred L. Tyler ; and the new settle- 
ment received the name of Annie's Town (contracted to Anniston), from the Christian name 
of Mrs. Alfred L. Tyler. Until 1883 the great domains of the Woodstock Company were 
withheld from public sale, and during that period the corporation built streets and parks 

and laid out 
a model city, 
at great cost. 
Then they 
began to sell 
building 
lots, and the 
city flashed 
into life, with 

ANNISTON : GRACE CHURCH. NOBLE INSTITUTE FOR GIRLS : THE SCHOOL AND DORMITORY. h O S t O f 

manufacturing industries, making iron, steel, stoves, horse-shoes, furniture, brick, ice, and many 
other articles, mainly dependent on the molten ore of the furnaces. In 1S87 the land interest 
of the Woodstock Company, was sold to the Anniston City Land Company, which now owns 
nearly $5,000,000 worth of property, including 2,700 acres in the city, the Inn, and many 
dwellings. The country about Anniston is very fertile, especially along the Choccolocco and 
Alexandria Valleys, and among its other products the city receives 60,000 bales of cotton 
yearly. Under these favorable circumstances, Anniston has constructed a capital cotton com- 
press, and one of the largest cotton-mills in the South. The Anniston Inn is a handsome 
Queen- Anne building, with broad verandas and a richly decorated interior, standing on an emi- 
nence near the centre of the city, and commanding fine views of the mountains. Anniston 
has 25 churches, the chief of which is the great stone and marble edifice of St. Michael's 
and All Angels, crowning a beautiful hill that overlooks the city and its mountain-guards. 
This noble ecclesiastical structure was built in 1SS9-90, by John W. Noble, as a memorial of 
his father, James Noble, and his brother, Samuel E. Noble, one of the founders of the city. 
Noble Institute for Boys and Noble Institute for Girls were established by Samuel E. Noble, 
in recognition of the fact that in this beautiful new city of mountains the best educational 
facilities should be made ready for the young people. The two institutes are of a high 
grade, with first-class faculties, abundant laboratory and other facilities, and carefully 
planned courses in the classics, languages, science, art and music. The buildings are hand- 
some and elaborate architectural works, in pressed brick and stone, and provided with all 
modern improvements and conveniences. 

The interesting development of the new Alabama cities marks the dawn of a new era 
in one of the most conservative of the Southern States. The fact that the pig-iron product 
of the United States now exceeds that of Great Britain, and reaches nearly 10,000,000 
tons a year, marks one of the most notable of modern industrial revolutions. In 1880, 
Alabama was the tenth State in respect to the production of iron, but now she occupies 
the third place, and yields one 
tenth of the American output, and 
one half of the pig-iron made in 
the South. 

As a producer of iron ore, Ala- 
bama now stands second only to 
Michigan, having passed Pennsyl- 
vania and New York, and yielding 
1,570,000 tons yearly. This is the 
cheapest iron in the world, owing 
to the large open workings and the easy facilities for mining, which also enable the local 
mining companies to get out the ore for 69 cents a ton for labor, which is a lower rate than 




E MANUFACTURING QUARTER. 



avjvg's handbook of the united states. 








TUSKALOOSA : 



obtains anywhere else in the United States, the average American expenditures for wages 
per long ton being $1.06. The capital invested here in iron-ore mining is above $5,000,- 
000, the entire American investment in this line being $110,000,000. 

The most valuable ally of the iron manufacture here is the coal-mining industry, which 
began in a small way in 1853, and reached by 1876 a yearly output of 100,000 tons, mainly 
for local use. This product has now increased to nearly 4,000,000 tons; and 7,000 men 
are employed in its manipulation. The three great coal-fields cover 8,660 square miles, 
lying along the valleys of the Warrior, Coosa and Cahaba Rivers, and bearing their names. 
The product includes all the bituminous varieties, such as gas, coking, block, splint and 
cannel, and provides the growing local industries with inexhaustible supplies of fuel for 
steam and furnace uses, and for domestic purposes. Jefferson County (of which Birming- 
iiam is the capital) produces more than two thirds of the Alabama coal ; and Bibb and 
Walker Counties come next, each with about 500,000 tons a year. 

^__ The development of the wonder- 

■^i;'.:'v5"^' 'i; :'; ,?/-.;. ^ fyj mineral resources of the State 

has been aided by the Geological 
Survey, which has been in progress 
since 1873, under the direction of 
the State Geologist, Dr. Eugene A. 
Smith, of the University of Ala- 
bama. Reports have been pub- 
lished almost yearly, and the survey 
has prepared an elaborate museum 
of minerals for the University. This is one of the benefits accruing to the State from its 
great educational institution, whose teachings are made general and popular by the appoint- 
ment of three free students from each county. Many of the leading men of Alabama 
were educated at the University, which is charmingly located in the cultivated city of Tus- 
kaloosa, whose broad streets, shaded by the native water-oaks, run down to the Warrior 
River, at the head of steamboat navigation, in a rich cotton district. Steamboats run regu- 
larly between the university city and Mobile, the great sea-port of Alabama. 

The intelligent development of the material wealth of the 
hills has caused the active and growing city of Bessemer to grow 
up on the lone fields of an Alleghany glen. A solitary log-hut 
stood here at the middle period of President Cleveland's admin- 
istration, where now the spires and factory-chimneys of an indus- 
trial metropolis are outlined against the deep green of the 
mountains. 

Bessemer was founded in 1887, and within three years arose 
to the position of an important manufacturing city and railway bessemer : office of the besse- 

... c ■ r It 1 1 i 1 'it -11 1 MER LAND AND IMPROVEMENT CO. 

centre, with seven furnaces m full blast, large rolhng mills and 

cast-iron pipe-works (capacity 350 tons daily), fire-brick works, and many smaller industries, 

besides handsome public buildings and business blocks, eight churches, and two news- 
papers. The reason for this extraordinary de- 
velopment is found in the existence here of a long 
mountain-range of iron, occurring in veins from 
five to 20 feet thick, and containing billions of tons 
of ore, under conditions of surprising economy 
for development. The ore can be mined and 
<lelivered at the furnaces for 55 cents a ton. 
*" -^1 Within 25 miles there are 600,000 acres of coal- 

' ^■^1 fields, estimated to contain 30 billion tons, and 

BESSEMER : DE BARDELEBEN COAL AND IRON COMPANY, yielding 62^ per ccnt. in coke. The great mines 





THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



39 




THE CHARLESTON BLOCK. 



on this belt deliver coal in Bessemer at So cents a ton. The purest Trenton limestone 
abounds in Jones Valley, and is delivered in the city at 6o cents a ton. With these notable 
advantages, iron is manufactured here at a minimum of cost, and competes with the cheap 
iron of England. The city stands 600 feet above the sea, in 
the beautiful amphitheatre of Jones Valley, between Red 
Mountain and Rock Mountain, 13 miles below Birming- 
ham. It gathers nine railways into its arms, and confidently 
looks for a great future development in 
general manufacturing and as a trade-cen- 
tre. The founder and chief owner of this 
iron city of North Alabama is the Bes- 
semer Land and Improvement Company, 
which is conducted with an enterprise and 
sagacity that make it certain that in the 
course of a few years Bessemer will fairly 
rival all of its older neighbors. 

The De Bardeleben Coal and Iron Company, Consolidated, is the great mainspring of the 
life of Bessemer, and owns seven new and fully equipped blast-furnaces, with a daily capac- 
ity of 800 tons ; seven iron-mines, yielding 4,000 tons daily ; seven coal-mines, with a 

daily capacity of 5,000 tons; 900 coke ovens; 25 
miles of standard-gauge railway ; immense lime- 
stone quarries ; and numerous other valuable prop- 
erties. In 1889 the De Bardeleben Company con- 
solidated with the Bessemer Iron and Steel Company 
and other corporations owning vast areas of coal 
and iron lands, and formed a new company, with 
$10,000,000 capital, and employing 2,000 men. 
The mineral lands cover 140,000 acres, and the 
yearly output of the furnaces is 250,000 tons of pig- 
iron, worth $4,000,000. 

Sheffield is another of the interesting new cities of 
northwestern Alabama, with its fortunes securely based on the manufacture of iron. It was 
founded in 1885, on a bold bluff midway between Tuscumbia and Florence, and fronting on 
the broad and deep Tennessee River. Unlimited supplies of fine brown iron-ore and the best 
of coking coal are available within 20 miles, and have resulted in the erection here of 
five blast-furnaces, with a capacity of 700 tons of pig-iron daily. The ores are of remark- 
able excellence, requiring only a pound of coke to make a pound of metal, and producing 
but little slag. A great advantage enjoyed by this "Iron City on the Tennessee River" is 
in the low price of freights by water, amounting to but $1 a ton to St. Louis. Many im- 
portant ports on the Tennessee, Ohio and Mississippi are reached by steamboats from this 
city ; and railways run to Birmingham and other points. The Sheffield Land, Iron and 
Coal Company enjoys the honor of having founded this hive of industry and commerce, 
with its busy factories and fine public buildings, where five years ago stretched the lonely 

fields of a rural plantation. 

The magnificent inland water-way of the Ten- 
nessee River, navigable now from North Carolina 
to the Ohio, is becoming a notable highway for 
iron and coal, cotton and grain, outward bound 
from North Alabama, and delivered at many 
cities of the West and Northwest. Even such 
dignified and ancient communities as Florence are 
SHEFFIELD : THE SHEFFIELD HOTEL. being forccd, by the demands the New South 




immmsmmmim 



BESSEMER : OE BARDELEBEN COAL AND IRON CO. 




40 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




FLORENCE : SYNODICAL COLLEGE. 




SHEFFIELD LAND, IRON AND COAL COMPANY. 



makes upon them, on account of their imrivalled 
commercial strategic value, to exchange their 
placid seclusion for a new civic life, full of energy 
and enterprise. 

Florence, a pleasant old Alabama college-town, 
on a rolling plateau in the cotton region of the 
north, somehow was drawn into the resistless 
whirl of modern activity in 1887, and within two 
years the population increased five-fold. It has 
the same remarkable combination of iron, coal 
and lime that has enriched other localities in the State, and in addition it enjoys admirable 
river commerce, by which the products of its mills can be delivered in the North at trifling 
charges for freight. Iron is freighted by steamer 
to St. Louis for !|l a ton. The advantages of the 
site have drawn to this beautiful river-city a num- 
ber of large manufacturing companies, and many 
millions of Northern capital, covering widely diver- 
sified interests ; and it is thought that Florence will 
become one of the half-dozen chief cities of the 
South. The chief development corporation of this 
locality has been the Florence Land, Mining and 
Manufacturing Company, which started its develop- 
ment in 1887, and has continued it. 

Many other manufacturing towns have been started in Alabama. Some of them will suc- 
ceed, in greater or less measure, and others will remain names and nothing more. Thus the 

old-time Chickasaw, at the foot of Colbert Shoals, 
in the far northwest, bloomed out in 1S90 as the 
coming city of Riverton, with iron-furnaces to be, 
and basic steel plants, and elevators. So also 
Pell City seeks to rise, where several railways in- 
tersect, in the rich Coosa Valley. 

Fort Payne was founded in 1889, ^7 New- 
Englanders, who bought 32,000 acres of land 
here, with the coal-seams of Lookout Mountain 
on one side, and the iron ores, of Red Mountain 
on the other, and beds of limestone between. 
Bluffton stands high on the Eastern-Alabama 
foot-hills, with cliffs of hematite iron ore all about it, furnishing material for several active 
furnaces. Decatur, on the broad and navigable Tennessee, and in the cereal belt, was a war- 
shattered old village of 1,500 people early in 
1887, when New Decatur arose, to be a city of 
8,000 people. Selma, on the Alabama, is an 
important cotton-market, manufacturing town, 
and railway centre. Huntsville, famous for its 
great flowing spring, is the capital of the rich- 
est of the Tennessee-Valley counties, with profit- 
able manufactures and a beautiful surrounding 
country. Eufaula stands perched on a bold 
bluff over the Chattahoochee. Tuskaloosa is a 
city of 5,000 people, on the Warrior River, be- 
tween the rich corn and cotton fields of the val- 
ley and the famous Warrior coal-fields. Talla- Sheffield land, iron and coal co. 's office. 




IRON MINES . DE BARDELEBEN COAL 




THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



41 




THE TENNESSEE RIVER AT SHEFFIELD. 



dega, Stevenson, Attalla, Gadsden and other new 
municipalities, are fast coming into public view. 

Railroads were initiated here by the Tuscum- 
bia, Courtland & Decatur line (44 miles) in 1831-4. 
The State now contains over 3,000 miles of tracks, 
the chief of which are the Alabama Great South- 
ern, from Chattanooga to Meridian, with 245 miles 
in Alabama; the South & North, from Montgom- 
ery to Decatur, 189 miles; the Mobile & Mont- 
gomery, 178 miles; the Selma Division of the 
East-Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia line, with 172 
miles in Alabama ; the Meridian and the Mobile and Birmingham Divisions ; the Georgia 
Pacific, 241 miles; the Memphis and Charleston, 151 ; the Alabama Midland, from Mont- 
gomery to Bainbridge, Ga. ; the Savannah & Western, 156; the Alabama Mineral, 127; and 
the Kansas City, Memphis & Birmingham, 118. The other roads, 25 in number, have each 
less than 100 miles of track. The railroads include those from Mobile northeast to Mont- 
gomery and to Atlanta, from Mobile north to Selma and Birmingham, from Mobile north- 
west to Meridian, Miss, (and Cairo and St. Louis) ; from Meridian east to Selma and 
Montgomery, from Montgomery to Troy, Columbus and Opelika (a loop line) ; from Selma 
across the Coosa Valley to Talladega and Rome ; from Mobile east to Pensacola and west 
to New Orleans ; , and along the Tennessee Valley. The magnificent systems of the 

East-Tennessee, Virginia & Cieorgia Railwaj' and other 
lines afford capital facilities for passengers and freight 
from Central Alabama northeastward to Chattanooga 
and the North, eastward to the first-class seaport of 
Brunswick (Ga.), and southwestward to Mobile and the 
Gulf ports. The East-Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia 



""'^^Pl^ 

r" 

Mobile & Ohio Railroad traverses the rich farming ter- 
ritory of the Alabama Land & Development Company, 
in the southwestern counties. 
Navigation by canoes was superseded by fiat-boats, taking three months from Mobile to 
Montgomery ; and in 1818 the St. -Stephens Steamboat Company received incorporation, fol- 
lowed by the Steamboat Company of Alabama. The early boats took 15 days to go from 
Mobile to Montgomery. There are now 43 steamboats (21 for passengers) on the rivers, 
with a tonnage of 7,008, and a value of $250,000. From the high bluffs along the rivers, 
cotton is sent down to the boats on slides, and passengers use long stairways. Alabama also 
has 73 sailing-vessels, of 8,000 tons. Mobile is the only port in the State, and her commerce 
has declined seriously, on account of railway competition and discrimination — New Orleans 
and the Atlantic ports taking her cotton exportations, and Pensacola shipping the lumber. 
Mobile's exports were $22,500,000 in 1870. In 1878, they had fallen to $9,000,000. 

Manufactures are mainly in the northern counties, where the recent development of 
vast coal and iron deposits has revolutionized the country, 
causing the rise of new manufacturing cities, like Birming- 
ham and Anniston, Florence and Sheffield, and followed by 
the building of many furnaces and rolling-mills. In 1880 
there were 2,000 factories, with $10,000,000 capital, em- 
ploying 10,000 operatives, and with an annual product of 
$14,000,000. The chief items were $4,31 5,000 in flour and 
grist-mill products, $2,650,000 in sawed lumber, .$1,452,000 
in iron and steel, and $1,352, 000 in cotton goods. The man- 
ufacturing interests of Alabama have increased prodigiously 




TUSCUMBIA : COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 




FLORENCE : NORMAL SCHOOU 



42 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




HIGH SCHOOL. 



within the past decade, especially in iron and steel and 
the connected industries. The largest cotton-mills are 
at Tallassee, 35 miles from Montgomery, at the great 
falls of the Tallapoosa, where 500 operatives are kept 
at work, in commodious stone factories. The works 
were started in 1845, ^"'^ *^he present mill dates from 
1854, having been built at a cost of $400,000. During 
the Secession War, fire-arms were made here, but now 
the products are sheetings, shirtings, duck, and cotton 
rope and yarn. 

The Finances of Alabama show an estimated valuation of .f 378,000, 000, with a State 
bonded debt of $9,240,000 (besides $250,000 unfunded), and county and municipal debts 
of about $5,000,000. The yearly State, county, and municipal taxes are above $2,000,000 
yearly. The first bank was founded at Huntsville in 181 6. There are 
now 21 National banks, with about $3,500,000 capital; and six savings- 
banks, with deposits of $1,300,000. There are also seven State banks, 
with a capital of $700,000. 

The banking-house of Josiah Morris & Co. is the pre-eminent private 
financial institution in Alabama, and exercises an important and progres- 
sive influence in Montgomery, the capital of the State, as well as in the 
great mineral regions of Central and Northern Alabama. Josiah Morris 
originated on the Eastern Shore of Maryland, in 1818, and, after a number 
of years of active business in Georgia and Louisiana, in 1851 he settled at 
Montgomery, where his close attention to business and his keen insight 
have been the corner-stones of a wonderfully successful career. The firm 
has helped the great railroad enterprises of this section with counsel and 
credit ; and especially has contributed largely to the building of the South 
and North line, and the consequent development of Birmingham. The 
large and increasing business of this house has compelled the erection of 
a new banking building, which is an ornament to the capital of Alabama. Mr. Morris's asso- 
ciate is F. M. Billing. Josiah Morris & Co. carry on a general banking business. 

The First National Bank of Birmingham, although established within a very few years, 
now occupies a proud position among the financial institutions of the South, and has the 
largest deposits and does the largest business of any bank in the State of Alabama. With 
a paid-in capital of $250,000, this corporation already has a surplus exceeding $200,000; 
and its first-class and secure lines of business assure the continuous increase of this 
practical reserve fund. The efficient aid of such a powerful financial institution as this 
has been wisely exerted to advance the prosperity of Birmingham in many ways, and to 
build up and sustain the great industries which have risen here. At once conservative 

and enterprising, the First National has continually 
developed its opportunities and resources, with an 
unwavering faith in the iron wealth of the Alabama 
hills as the true foundation for a powerful monetary 
institution ; and the result has amply justified the sa- 
gacity of the undertaking. Its building was the first 
three-story brick structure in Birmingham, erected for 
this bank in 1872, by Charles Linn, in an old corn-field, 
and then known all over Alabama as "Linn's Folly. " 
The First National was organized in 1884, by the con- 
solidation of the National Bank of Birmingham and 
the City Bank. Then there were two banks in the city, 
B RMiNGHAM FiRbT NATIONAL BANK whcrc there are now twelve. 




MONTGOMERY : JOSIAH 
MORRIS & CO. 'S BANK. 





Sailing eastward from 
Kamchatka, in 1 741, the 
Russian navigators, Chi- 
rikoff and Bering, were 
the first Europeans to 
see the Alaskan shores, 
reaching the lone north 
land at different points. 
These intrepid and ill- 
fated explorers were fol- 
lowed by the Siberian fur-hunters, advancing along the 
Aleutian group, and enslaving the natives, nine-tenths of 
whom disappeared between 1760 and 1818. In 1799 
the Emperor Paul, of Russia, granted a twenty years' 
charter to the Russian-American Company, whose iron- 
willed manager, Baranoff, conquered the country as far as 
Sitka (which was founded in 1801); established a colony 
in California ; and opened trade with China, Honolulu 
and the Spanish colonies. In 1818 Russia interposed 
between the natives and the companies, and thousands 
of Aleuts and others were Christianized, largely by the 
labors of Innocentius Veniaminoff, afterwards Primate of 
the Greek Church. 

Under the strong influence of Seward and Sumner, and 
in the face of keen ridicule and opposition, the U.-S. Gov- 
ernment bought Alaska (a profitless land for Russia), in 
1867, for $7,200,000 in gold. 
American soldiers then garri- 
soned the old Russian forts ; 
but a few years later they 
were withdrawn, and the only 
armed defenders now are a 
small war-vessel and a com- 
pany of marines, who assist the 




STATISTICS. 

Settled at Kadiak, in . . . 1784 

Founded by Russians 

Annexed to the United States, 1867 
Population in 1H80, .... 33,426 
Population in iSqo, .... 31,795 

Whites 4,303 

Chinese 2,287 

Mixed (Russian and Native), 1,809 

Indians 23,274 

Eskimos, 12,787 

Thlinkets, 4,737 

Athabaskans, .... 3,439 

Aleuts 968 

Tsimpseans 953 

Hydas, 391 

I inhabitant to 17 square miles. 
Votinfi Population, .... o 

Vote for Harrison (1888), . o 

Vote for Cleveland (1888), . o 

Net Public Debts 

Real Property, ) (estimated). 
Personal Property, f . . $5,000,000 

Banks 

Area (square miles), . . . 531,000 
U.S. Representatives, ... o 

Militia (Disciplined), . . o 

Counties, o 

Cities, o 

Towns and Villages, .... 320 

Post-offices, 17 

Railroads (miles) o 

Vessels, c 

Tonnage, 

Farm Land (in acres) ... o 

Colleges and Professional 

Schools 

Government Schools, ... 18 

Mission Schools 32 

School Children, 1,300 

Newspapers, 3 

Latitude, . . . . 54° 40' to 71° 23' 
Longitude, 181° W. to 1730 13' E. 
Temperature, . . — ° 70° to 120° 
Mean Temperature, Sitka, . 43" 

CHIEF PLACES AND POPULATIONS 
IN 1890. 

Juneau, 1.253 

Sitka 1,190 

Karluk 1,123 

Metlakahtla 823 

Kadiak (St. Paul), .... 495 

Kingaghee, 488 

Port Clarence, 485 

Hoonah, 438 

Alitak 420 

Afognak, 409 



civil government in preserving the public peace and guarding 
the public property. For many years this great hyperborean 
province was known as Russian America. The name Alaska 



44 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UN/TED STATES. 



is from the Aleutian word AlaksJiak, meaning "The Continent" or "Large Country," 
modified by the Russians into Aliaska, and given to the great peninsula south of Bering 
Sea. When the United States bought the country, the various names of Polario, Ameri- 
can Siberia, Zero Islands and Walrussia were 
suggested for it ; but Charles Sumner secured 
the adoption of the present title. 

The popular name for the District is Unci.E 

Sam's Ice Box ; and it has also been 

The Land of the Midnight 

nd The Land of Sundown 

The arms of Alaska show men 

seals, vessels among the islands, 

and lofty mountains, with brilliant rays 

above them. 

II. Kinkead, 1884-5; ^^- P- Swineford, 

North and south it extends between 






i^™?"^!?^! s I a ! IS K 



6ITKA : CUSTOM HOUSE AND BARRACKS. 



John 




GRANVILLE CHANNEL. EN ROUTE TO ALASKA. 



The Governors of Alaska have been 
1885-8; and Lyman E. Knapp, 1888-93. 

The area of Alaska is of imperial dimensions. 
Dixon Entrance and Point Barrow for 
1,200 miles, which equals the distance 
from Maine to Florida ; and its western 
extension of 2,100 miles, between Port- 
land Canal and Attn, approximates the 
distance from Virginia to California. The 
District equals in area one-sixth of the 
United States, or one-seventh of Europe. 
The lower part, from Dixon Entrance to 
Mt. St. Elias, consists of a strip of main- 
land about thirty miles wide and five hun- 
dred miles long, made up chiefly of rough 
and broken country, composed of numer- 
ous irregular ranges of steep, lofty and 

often snowy mountains, among whose curving crests runs the international boundary. 
This huge Cordilleran wall looks westward upon a maze of deep straits and sounds, 
including the magnificent Clarence Strait, a hundred miles long and four miles wide, 
and as straight as a canal. Amid this labyrinth of sea-waters the Alexander Archi- 
pelago follows the shore-line for 300 miles, with the Prince-of- Wales, Admiralty, 
Baranoff and other islands, large enough for states, and thousands of minor islands. 
The climate of southern Alaska is moderated by the influence of the ocean, and does 
not have the formidable extremes of heat and cold that persecute New England. The 
mean temperature of Sitka is 54.2° in summer, and 31.9° in winter. It 
is too humid to allow of curing hay, or many other agricultural industries, 
but turnips, cabbages, potatoes, and other vegetables arc grown, and a 
few cattle are kept. The temperature resembles that of Northern Scot- 
land and parts of Norway ; and the winters 
are milder than those of New York. The 
rainfall is from 80 to 136 inches in a year. 

In the great forests of southeastern Alaska, 
the prevailing tree is the Sitka spruce, re- 
sembling the silver fir of California, some- 
times reaching a height of 250 feet, and cover- 
ing many thousands of square miles of the Alexander Archipelago. It ascends the sides of 
the steepest mountains for over 1,000 feet. The yellow cedar is a hard and durable wood. 




INDIAN VILLAGE, WITH TOTEM POLES. 



TFIE DISTRICT OF ALASKA. 



45 




UNALASHKA. 



pleasantly perfumed, and admitting of a high polish. There are vast forests of spruce and 
hemlock, but only a few mills have been erected, on account of the uncertain tenure of 
land. Among the inhabitants of these woods are black, brown and cinnamon bears, deer 
and lynxes, minks and martens, white and sil- 
ver-gray foxes, and millions of undisturbed 
birds. 

The great northward and westward curve of 
the coast from Dixon Entrance covers a length 
of 550 miles, to Prince-William Sound, whence 
the shore-line trends south and west, 725 miles, 
to the tip of Aliaska, and thence zigzags north 
and east to Bering Strait and the Arctic 
Ocean. The Kadiak group, 600 miles west of 
the Alexander Archipelago, covers nearly 6,000 
square miles, and has several interesting vil- 
lages of the descendants of Russian fathers and Alaskan mothers, and the homes of 
nearly 500 Kaniag natives, a fast-fading race. Two hundred miles farther westward, in 
the stormy and misty ocean, rise the Shumagin Islands, inhabited by Californian cod- 
fishermen and Alaskan sea-otter hunters. The Aleutian Archipelago runs from near the 
Shumagin group for 1,650 miles, in the direction of Asia, a series of treeless, grassy and 

generally mountainous islands, with 
numerous volcanic peaks, rising be- 
tween the Pacific Ocean and Bering 
Sea. This region is the home of 
tremendous gales and almost per- 
petual sea-mists, and has a mild 
and humid climate, averaging 50° in 
summer and 30° in winter. Sum- 
mer lasts from April to October, 
and a more rainy than snowy winter the rest of the year. At Unalashka and Kadiak the 
thermometer rarely reaches as low as zero, and in summer it mounts to 75^^. Fewer than 
half the days are entirely cloudy. A dense and luxuriant growth of grass rustles in the 
valleys, and may give rise to sheep-raising industries in the future ; and innumerable huckle- 
berries grow on the island hills and plains. Many of the Aleutian Islands lie south of the 
latitude of Liverpool, and have a climate not greatly different from that of northern Eng- 
land. The Aleuts are short, yellowish-brown, Japanese-looking people, with large mouths, 
flat noses, high cheek-bones, small eyes, and coarse black hair. They are exceedingly 
religious, after the manner of the Greek Church, being in many cases moderately well- 
educated, and ranking creditably as traders and accountants. Some of them dwell in 
their own comfortable houses, with American 
furniture and tableware ; and their women 
earnestly copy New- York fashion-plates. There 
are 1,000 Aleuts and 500 Creoles on Atka, 
Umnak, Unalashka and Spirkin Islands ; at the 
great trading-station of Belkoffski; and at Unga, 
famous for its hunters of sea-otter. 

The most westerly point of the United States 
is the island of Attu, 3,084 feet high, 400 miles 
from Kamchatka, and 400 miles from the nearest 
Alaskan village. Here dwell five-score of vig- 
orous and enterprising Aleuts, who (although very poor) have resisted advantageous 
offers to leave their lonely island-home. Their beach-side hamlet has a chapel and a 




ATTU ISLAND. 




CAPE PRINCE-OF-WALES. 



46 



KING'S HAXDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



store. Blue foxes roam over the hills ; and wild geese, sea-lions, cod and halibut abound 
near by. San Francisco lies 2,900 miles west of Maine, in a bee line, and 2,943 miles east 
of Attu, and is therefore a little east of the centre of the Union. Since the American 



domain extends over 196 degrees, 
sun, in summer, is always -shining 
the June twilight settles down 




KING ISLAND, BERING SEA. 



or more than half way round the earth, the 
on the United States somewhere. When 
over the gray-green wastes of Bering Sea, 
and the weary Aleut fisherman pulls his 
canoe toward the shore, the morning light is 
already streaming far out over Maine, and 
the axes of the lumbermen are arousing the 
echoes of the Penobscot forests. 

Bering Strait is forty miles wide, 1, 000 
miles north of Attu, between Cape Prince- 
of- Wales, on the American side, and East 
Cape, on the Asiatic shore. It is twenty or 
thirty fathoms deep, with a current flowing 
northward into the Arctic Ocean, and another south into Bering Sea, the latter being 
permanent, the former temporary and tidal. Arrangements have been talked of to send 
two large steamships every season from American ports to the Arctic Ocean, bearing sum- 
mer-excursionists. The Strait was traversed in 1648 by Deshneff, and in 1728 by Bering. 
In 1778 Capt. Cook explored and named it. The Diomede Islands lie in Bering Strait, 
two miles apart, one of them, Ratmanoff (or Im'ah-khluk) being Russian, and the 
other, Krusenstern (or Ing'ah-khltik), American. They are usually known as the Big and 
Little Diomedes. The Little Diomede is a bald rock about 250 feet high, with ninety 
Eskimo inhabitants, always willing to trade walrus-ivory and fox-skins for whiskey and 
tobacco. Thirty miles away is King Island, fronting the Bering currents with basaltic cliffs 
586 feet high, and inhabited by bold Eskimo walrus-hunters and kayak-men, whose homes 
are built on stages constructed on the steep rocky slopes, one above another, like 
terraces. 

Leaving aside the long Aleutian and Sitkan horns, Alaska may be likened to a 
huge square, with its sea-bound edges fringed by estuaries, like Bristol Bay and 
Norton Sound, on Bering Sea, and Kotzebue Sound, opening into the Arctic. It is 
a land of a short, hot summer, in which all the snow is melted, and a long, cold 



winter ; and upon its river-banks and 
Innuits or Eskimo, amid the forever .^ 
no cereals or fruits can be raised. / 
lies within the Arctic Circle, 
frozen moor or tundra, with 
lakes and marshes, and low 
The Eskimo are taller and 



coast-line there dwell 13,000 
frozen fields where 
One-third of Alaska 
and is nearly all 
mosquito-haunted 
mountain-spurs, 
stronger than their 
brethren of Green- 
land and Labra- 
dor, \\ith fresh 
yellow faces, in- 
clined to mirth. 
They dwell in bark shanties or cotton 
tents, in summer ; and in winter in huts 
of logs, entered by underground passages. 
They eat the meat of moose and whale, 
seal and walrus, reindeer and bear, wild 
fowl, and many fish ; dress in the skms of animals ; and find great comfort in smoking 
tobacco. These bold sea-hunters and fishermen occupy the entire Alaskan coast from 





ARCTIC OCEAN : POINT BARROW. 



THE DISTRICT OF ALASKA. 



47 




GREAT PACIFIC GLACIER, AT FOOT OF MT. LA PEROUSE. 

to the <rreat delisjht of 



Mt. St. Elias around to and along the Arctic Ocean to Greenland, except for the in- 
trusive Tinneh colonies at Cook's Inlet and Copper River. Winter travelling inland is 
done on sledges drawn by dogs, six of which can transport several hundred pounds thirty 
miles or more in a day. The Yukon traders 
often make in this manner journeys 
2,000 miles, during the winter season, 
summer all travel is by canoes of skin or 
bark. 

Millions upon millions of geese and 
ducks, swans and cranes, herons and swal- 
lows, robins and grouse visit the vicinity of 
Norton Sound every summer, to lay their 
eggs in the grass of the lowlands. It seems 

as if all the birds of America sought this desolate land to breed in 
the Eskimo, who eat their roasted eggs and tender flesh. 

Point Barrow has a building erected by the Government, and for two years occupied by 
Lieut. Ray as a signal-station. Afterwards, it was maintained by the Pacific Steam Whaling 
Company, and kept manned as a trading-post, where the whalebone from whales killed by 
the natives was purchased. In 1889 the United-States Government established a relief 
station there, the material for the buildings being transported and put up by the revenue- 
cutter ^^«r and the naval vessel Thetis. In 1871, 33 ships were crushed in the ice, and 
1,200 sailors became castaways on this sterile coast. In 1876, thirteen vessels were caught 
in the ice on this coast, and abandoned, and in 1888, five ships were lost at Point Barrow. 
The Eskimo village of Nuwuk, with 140 inhabitants, lies near the point, which is a low 
sandy projection near a shallow bay. It is the most northerly point of the United vStates. 
Yet here, during a few days in July, outtLieups diiKklmns and poppies spangle the 
moors, and golden butterflies float 

The Yukon River is of unknown 
miles), and traders' steam-boats 
miles up its mighty flood. It has 
with a dreary and water-soaked 
and for a thousand miles it varies 
in width. The water is muddy, 
the steamers. Blue grass, wild 
grow on the shores, which are 
swarms of most formidable and 
St. Michael, a fortified trading 
Russians in 1835, is the metropolis 
of this region. It lies far north of 
the Yukon delta, on Norton Sound, 
but gets all the trade of the great 
river. People bound for the Yukon hist go to this 
port, whence light-draft steamers run cautiously 
around into the river, whose mouths aie almost 
closed by leagues of mud. 

The short but intensely hot summers of the upper 
Yukon country produce millions of acres of ricli 
grasses ; and barley has ripened at Fort Yukon, 
inside of the Arctic Circle. The mean temperature 
of the Yukon country is 25°, and it ranges from 70° 
below, in winter, to 100° above. These winters of almost interminable length and amaz- 
ing snows keep the ground in many places frozen to within six to eighteen inches of the 




in the chill air. 
length (over 2,000 
tow batteaux for 1,300 
several shallow mouths, 
delta seventy miles wide ; 
fiom one to five miles 
and clogs the boilers of 
roses and other plants 
mfested by enormous 
poisonous mosquitoes, 
post founded by the 




THE devil's thumb. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MOUNT ST. ELIAS. 



surface all summer. Up as far as the Episcopal mission at Anvik, the Eskimo dwell, along 
the river ; but the Yukon shores above that point belong to the Tinneh, an Athabaskan 
people, whose fishermen and hunters occupy its shores, and also have log villages along 

the Kuskokwim and Tananah. It is 800 miles from 
St. Michael to Nuklakayet, and thence 300 miles to 
the deserted Fort Yukon, where the river has a width 
of seven miles, between flat and mosquito-scourged 
lowlands, with the pale blue Romantzoff Mountains in 
the northwest. The fort is near the inflowing of the 
Porcupine River, above which the Canadians call the 
Yukon the Lewes River. Somewhere near the bound- 
ary, 200 miles above the fort, are the gold-fields of the 
upper Yukon, reached from Haines, or Chilkat Mission, 
80 miles northwest of Juneau, by crossing the coast mountains, over the Chilkoot Pass, 
4, 100 feet high, and descending the Yukon waters from Lake Lindeman. It is 430 miles 
from Haines to Pelly River ; 550 miles to Stewart River ; and 670 miles to Forty-Mile 
Creek. A large number of gold-prospectors have ascended the Chilkat, and crossed to the 
head-waters of the Yukon, which they followed down to Bering Sea. Several hundred 
American miners are at work on the upper Yukon, but without severe hardships little gold 
can be obtained. The boundary line between Alaska and Canada has never been marked, 
and large areas of territory are in dispute, especially on the upper Yukon, In 1887-8, the 
Dominion of Canada sent a surveying party, in 
charge of Dr. G. M. Dawson, to make a pre- 
liminary reconnoissance of the boundary line; 
and in 1889-90, a similar party was sent out by 
the United States. 

The clay-white and turbid Kuskokwim River 
is navigable from Bering Sea for 300 of its thou- 
sand miles of length. Two hundred miles up is 
Kolmakofl"ski, once a Russian trading-post for 
the 5,000 fish-eating natives of the lower river. 
The mosquitoes in this region are innumerable. 
The Colville and an undetermined number of 
other rivers flow into the Arctic Ocean. Formerly every year a great fair was held on the 
Colville, visited by the Eskimos for hundreds of miles. But the conditions of trade have 
now totally changed this and many other ancient usages. 

The Alaskan mountains are northerly extensions of the Cascades and Rockies, and 
culminate in the majestic St. -Elias Alps, from 14,000 to 20,000 feet high, the greatest 
mountains north of Mexico ; the Chugatch and Kenai ranges, never yet explored ; Iliamna, 

12,000 feet high, and an active volcano ; and the 

\ »' Aleutian peaks, Makushin on Unalashka, Shishal- 

din (8,000 feet) on Unimak, Korovin on Atka, 

and many other volcanic spires, rising from the 

lonely northern sea. The District contains ten 

active volcanoes, and many that are burnt out or 

somnolent. This vast line of mountains runs 

northwest to the Ramparts of the Yukon, and 

iLij, -^^r,^ 'i^-^^' ^- —^^ •^.zEV'^ss'^::^^ then turns southwest through Aliaska, and is ap- 

|wi" w^.rr' -::?.' ' -' " .-''^& ^^ ^ ^aMi^mBnl parently continued by the Aleutian Islands, sink- 

THE MuiR GLACIER. jjig lowcr and lower into the ocean as the range 

advances. Mt. St. Elias reaches a height of 14,000 feet, 45 miles inland from Icy Bay, 

which is 55 miles from the Indian coast-hamlet of Yakutat, 250 miles northwest of Sitka. 




MOUNT WRANGELL. 




THE DISTRICT OF ALASKA. 



49 




aiTKA : INOUSTRIAL TRAININS SCHOOL. 



It crowns a vast wilderness of glaciers (some of them covering a thousand square miles 
each), black rocky ridges and craters, and solitary lakes, near the huge peaks of Mt. Cook 
and Mt. Vancouver. Lieut. Schwatka in i886, and the Topham-Willianis party in 1888, 
both failed, after prodigious efforts, to reach the 
summit of this lonely peak. Mt. Crillon (15,900 
feet) and Mt. Fairweather (15,500 feet) rise with 
magnificent effect from the sea, west of Glacier 
Bay. Mt. Wrangell, in the forks of the brawling 
Copper River, has an estimated height of 19,400 
feet, and perpetual smoke pours from its peak. 
The St. -Elias Alps terminate in the Kenai 
Peninsula, south and east from the Alaskan 
Range, beyond which extend vast table-lands. 
Along the moorlands of the Arctic coast rises a 
long range of low gray and bronze-colored hills, sinking east of Cape Lisburne into 
gravelly hillocks. The glaciers of the St. -Elias region are of amazing dimensions, some- 
times reaching twenty miles in width of working face. The Muir Glacier, where it meets 
the sea, is three miles long and 330 feet high, a vast pearly and ultramarine wall of ice, 
with a background of mountains rising 15,000 feet. The Davidson and other glaciers are 
famous for their grandeur. In the eighty miles from Juneau to Chilkat, at the head of 
Lynn Canal, a score of glaciers are visible. There are perhaps 5,000 of them between 
Dixon Entrance and the tip of Aliaska. In some inlets of this formidable coast the tides 

rise and fall fifty feet, notably in Cook's Inlet and 
at the mouth of the Kuskokwim River. 

The Government consists of a governor, a dis- 
trict judge, a clerk of the court (who is also secretary 
and treasurer of Alaska), and a U. -S. district attor- 
ney; a collector of customs and five deputies; U. -S. 
commissioners at Fort Wrangell, Sitka, Juneau and 
Unalashka ; and a marshal and six deputies. The 
District has no delegate in Congi-ess, and no local 
legislature, although its remoteness from the States 
seems to render such political privileges necessary. The National land-laws have not been 
extended to Alaska, and only lOO acres in the District have legal titles, being by fee- 
simple holding over from the Russian era. All other estates are retained by the irregular 
tenure of "squatter sovereignty" on the public domain. The laws of Oregon form the 
code of Alaska, as far as applicable, and supplemented by Congressional enactments. 
The executive officers are appointed by the President, the Alaskans having no franchise. 

Educational affairs are under the direction of the U. -S. Commissioner of Education, 
with Rev. Sheldon Jackson, D. D., as U. S. General Agent of Education 
for Alaska. Wherever possible, a local school-board is established in 
each settlement. Congress appropriates about $50,000 a year for 1 
these schools, which are less efficient in results than could be ^^ 
wished, because the children are not compelled to 
attend. There are eighteen day-schools wholly 
supported by the Government, two each at Sitka, 
Juneau, and Douglas City, and one each at Jackson, 
Metlakahtla, Klawak, Fort Wrangell, Killisnoo, 
Haines, Kadiak, Unga, Afognak and Unalashka. In 
addition to these schools, there are twelve boarding- 
schools aided by the Government ; Anvik and Point Hope (Episcopal); Nulato and 
Kozyroff, on the Yukon, and Cape Vancouver (Catholic); Unalaklik, on Norton Sound, 




SITKA : RUSSIAN CASTLE. 



SITKA : GREEK CHURCH. 




5° 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STA7ES. 



and Yakutat (Lutheran); Bethel, on the Kuskokwim River, and Carmel, on the Nushagak 
River (Lutheran); Cape Prince-of- Wales (Congregational); and Point Barrow and Sitka 
(Presbyterian). The Industrial Boarding School at Sitka has 20 teachers and 1 70 pupils, 
and teaches shoe-making, carpentering, blacksmithing, and 
other trades. It is the foremost civilizing agency in Alaska, 
and serves as a house of refuge and a defence for maltreated 
native youth. 

The Greek Church in Alaska has a body of conservative 

priests, supported from the Imperial Synod at Moscow^ and 

governed by Bishop Vladimir, who has established at San 

Francisco an excellent school for the young Russians and 

He has instructed his clergy to learn the English language, for teach- 

This ancient church supports seventeen parochial schools in Alaska. 




INDIAN VILLAGE. 



Creoles of Alaska, 
ing and preaching. 

The Jesuits have founded missions and schools on the Yukon ; and Catholic institutions 
exist at Juneau and elsewhere. The Presbyterian Board of Home' Missions and the 
Church Missionary Society of England each support two or more schools and several 
missions. 

Mails are carried to Juneau, Sitka, Fort Wrangell, Loring and 
Killisnoo weekly in summer, and fortnightly in winter ; and 
monthly mails go from Fort Wrangell to Skakan, Klawak and 
Jackson. Three comfortable steamships run from Tacoma, Port 
Townsend, Seattle and Victoria, to Fort Wrangell, Juneau and 
Sitka, most of the voyage being among and inside of the great 
lonely islands which extend for hundreds of leagues, between the 
Pacific Ocean and the untrodden glaciers and mountain -ranges of 
the mainland. There are over ten thousand of these islands be- 
tween Puget Sound and Mt. St. Elias, partly submerged peaks 
of the Coast Range, often snow-crowned, and separated by very 
deep, narrow and protected channels. 

Ivan Petroff, the special agent for Alaska in the censuses of 
1880 and 1890, divides the country into seven sections: 1st, or 
southeastern, from Portland Canal to Mt. St. Elias, about 29,000 
SKooT KALIS TOTEM square miles, with 1,747 whites, 124 mixed, 4,491 Thlinkets, 952 

Tsimpseans, and 391 Hydas ; 2d, or Kadiak dis- 
trict, 70,000 square miles, from Mt. St. Elias to 
Aliaska, with 1,105 whites, 785 mixed, 1,670 
Eskimo, 866 Athabaskan, and 246 Thlinket ; 3d, 
or Oonalashka district, including Aliaska and the 
Aleutian Islands, 15,000 square miles, with 520 
whites, 734 mixed, and 967 Aleuts ; 4th, or 
Nushagak district, 318 whites, 28 mixed, 1,952 
Eskimo, 43 Athabaskan, and i Aleut ; 5th, the 
Kuskokwim district, 24 whites, 17 mixed, 4,998 
Eskimo, and 385 Athabaskan ; 6th, or Yukon 
district, with more than 175,000 square miles, 
and 202 whites, 127 mixed, 2,145 Athabaskans 
and 1,438 Eskimo; and 7th, or Arctic district, 
covering the 125,000 square miles between Cape alaskans. 

Prince-of-Walesand the Yukon Mountains and the Arctic Ocean, with 2,729 Eskimo inhabi- 
tants. The natives are of a stock peculiar to northwest America, from the Columbia to Mt. 
St. Elias. They are more intelligent and skilful than the Athabaskan Indians, but like 
them very superstitious, and dangerous when under the influence of hoochinoo, a fiery rum 





THE DISTRICT OF ALASKA. 



51 




SEAL-FISHER'S HUT. 



which they distill from molasses. The Chilkat blankets and the fine silver-work and great 

totems or carved wooden pillars of the tribes, show a notable industrial ingenuity, which may 

have valuable results, when the hardworking missionaries shall have reclaimed their young 

people. They are industrious and shrewd, and amazingly ingenious 

liars, but will not steal from each other. Otherwise, their morals 

are at a very low ebb. The tribal relation is rapidly giving 

way, and the chiefs who continue have lost much of their influ- 
ence ; and the coast Indians have generally abandoned the 

native costumes. There are now no shamans practicing their 

sorceries, in the tribes nearest the white settlements. The 

Government has never recognized or treated the Alaskans as 

Indians, and they are free to come and go, to sue and be sued, 

and to make contracts, like other citizens. The Alaskans have 

never been a servile race, and have had few hostilities with the 

Americans, receiving, also, no Government support. They are 

fast patterning after the whites, and reaching out to meet the new conditions, laboring 

in the salmon-canneries and gold-mines ; and are both industrious, frugal and ambitious. 

The S,ooo whites are at Juneau and Sitka and the scattered fishing and mission stations. 
Gov. Stoneman, of California, has said that the gold-mines of Alaska will produce 

enough treasure to pay the National debt. These 

rich deposits were first discovered in 1877, at Silver 

Bay, near Sitka, where valuable quartz-lodes have 

been worked ; and other auriferous outcrops are 

already located on Admiralty and Unga islands, at 

Unalashka and elsewhere. In 18S0, Joseph Juneau, 

a French-Canadian miner (and nephew of the founder 

of Milwaukee) prospected through the region which 

now bears his name, and found free gold in great 

quantities in the mountain-girt Silver-Bow Basin. 

Over f> 1, 000, 000 in dust has since been washed out 

of these placers. Within a league occur the gold-bearing quartz-beds of Sheep's Creek, 

whose product is shipped to Seattle for refining. Two miles from Juneau is Douglas 

Island, where John Treadwell established the works of the Alaska Mining and Milling 

Company. It is said that $600,000 in gold bricks are sent thence to San Francisco 

yearly, although the ore is of low grade, yielding but 

$7 to the ton. The quartz is easily quarried from the 

hill-side, and reduced by one of the largest mills in 

the world, with 240 stamps, 96 concentrators and 12 

crushers. There are large deposits of silver-bearing 

lead a.t Sheep's Creek and between Norton Sound and 

Bering Strait. Copper is found abundantly on Kadiak 

and at Copper River ; bismuth on Mt. Verstovoia ; 

cinnabar on the Kuskokwim ; sulphur on Unimak ; 

and elsewhere amber, sulphur, marble, slate, petroleum 

and kaolin. Lignitic coal is mined on the Shumagin 

Islands, and appears at Coal Bay and Cook's Inlet. 

The fisheries are of enormous value. There are 
fifty San-Francisco and New-Bedford whaling-vessels 
m the Arctic Ocean, getting $1,500,000 a year in 
ivory, bone and oil. The salmon pack has risen 

30,000,000 pound-cans yearly, besides 15,000 barrels. Prince-of- Wales Island, Cook's 

Inlet, Bristol Bay and Kadiak each have a score of large salmon-canneries. The Yukon, 




ST. -PAUL island: driving seals. 




HAUNTS OF THE SEA LION. 



52 



A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




Kuskokwim and Nushagak rivers have unlimited supplies of salmon. 350,000 gallons of 
herring, vi'hale and dogfish oil are made yearly at Killisnoo. 5,000,000 pounds of cod are 
caught yearly. The yearly fur-yield of Alaska has reached 100,000 fur-seals, 5,000 sea- 
otters, 10,000 beavers, 12,000 foxes, 20,000 mar- 
ten, and 15,000 others. The Government has re- 
ceived from the seal islands a sum equal to that 
which was paid for the Territory. The plant of 
the Russian-American Company was purchased by 
San-Francisco capitalists, who were incorporated 
in 1870, as the Alaska Commercial Company, and 
leased the Pribiloff Islands for twenty years, with 
the privilege of killing 100,000 seals yearly. In 
1890 the Government granted the right of taking 
JUNEAU ciTv. fur-seals to the North-American Commercial Com- 

pany, for the twenty years up to 1910, for a yearly rental of $60,000, and $7,623- for 
each seal-skin (besides $2 revenue-tax). The number of seals to be killed is limited, the 
first year to be not more than 60,000. The seal islands are visited yearly by steam-ships 
from San Francisco, 2,300 miles distant. St. Paul's, of 33 square miles, and St. George's, 
and covering 27 square miles, have beaches, where the seals crawl ashore and breed, and 
in June and July the allotted rmmber of them are slain, and their skins salted and sent 
to San Francisco. There are 365 Aleuts on the Pribiloffs, with two Greek churches, 
English and Russian schools, good American houses, and 
medical care. 4,000,000 seals visit the Pribiloff Isles every 
summer ; and up to a very recent date the number was 
not decreasing, owing to the prohibition of killing females, 
and the precautions taken to slaughter only young bulls. 
This is the most important sealing-station in the world. 
175,000 fur-seals are killed yearly in all parts of the 
globe, two thirds of which come from the American and 
Russian islands of Bering Sea, most of the remainder 
being taken in the sea itself. Grave difficulties arose be- 
tween the United States and Great Britain in 1889, by 
reason of American revenue-cutters seizing Canadian seal- 
ing-vessels in these waters. These poachers haunt the waters through which the seals pass 
every spring, where by indiscriminate slaughter, with fire-arms and gill-nets, especially of 
pregnant cow-seals, they threaten the extinction of the race. Only 21,000 pelts were 
secured in 1890, by the North American Company. 

Since 1867, the fur-seal skins shipped from Alaska have brought $33,000,000; other 
furs, chiefly sea-otter, $16,000,000; the canned salmon, $8,000,000 (the largest cannery 
in the world is at Karluk) ; codfish, $3,000,000 ; and gold, $4,000,000. 

Juneau, 166 miles north of Sitka, has two 
newspapers, an opera-house, a library, a brew- 
ery, and the Alaska News Company. 

Sitka, the capital of Alaska, has a quaint 
Greek Church, the old Russian Government 
House, high on a rocky pinnacle, the Alaska 
Historical Society, and a weekly newspaper. 
The harbor is deep and dotted with islands, 
and over it Mounts Verstovoia and Edgecumbe 

rise far into the sky. Metlakahtla, on Annette Island, is the home of a thousand semi-civi- 
lized Indians, transferred by William Duncan from British Columbia. There are 
schools, a steam sawmill, and other civilizing influences. 




SITKA HARBOR. 




FORT WRANGELL, INDIAN QUARTERS. 



jood 




All over the great Territory 

of Arizona, by the sides of its 

rivers and on its sun-steeped 

hills, are the fortresses and 

cliff-dwellings, the mines and 

terraces, and the great systems 

of canals which belonged to 

the partly civilized people who 

dwelt here six or eight cen- 
turies ago. Frank Gushing estimates that 300,000 persons 
then occupied the Salt-River Valley alone. The cliff-houses 
of the Rio de Chelly and the canons of the Colorado still 
present their problems to antiquaries, some of whom believe 
the early Arizonians to have been of the Pueblo stock ; 
while others trace them to the Aztecs. Among these mem- 
orials of a vanished race is the Casa Grande, a great adobe 
ruin, found here by the Spanish explorers of 350 years ago, 
and still standing in lonely desolation on the tawny plain, 
viewing the Sonora Mountains. The modern. discoverers 
of Arizona were an Italian Franciscan friar. Fray Marcos 
de Niza (Mark of Nice), whilom companion of Pizarro in 
Peru, and Estevanico, a freed African slave. In 1539 these 
two went northward from Culiacan, ' ' as the Holy Spirit 
did guide," and reached the Gila Valley. Estevanico was 
slain by the natives ; but Niza planted a cross in Cibola 
(Zuni), and took possession of the country in the name of 
Spain. During the next year, Alarcon navigated the Col- 
orado as far as the Grand Cafion, and Captain-General Cor- 
onado, with 300 Spaniards and 800 Indians, marched 
across Arizona, to the Moqui pueblos and beyond, fighting 
many a stout battle with the natives. In 1687, and later, 
Jesuit and Franciscan missionaries did great works in this 
heathen land, and founded many towns ; but the civiliza- 
tion which arose in their train vanished before the forajjs 
of the pitiless Apache warriors. The missions were suppressed by the Mexican Gov- 
ernment in 1828, and the Indians destroyed again most of the churches and mining 
plants, and reduced Arizona to savagery. During the Mexican War, in 1847, Gen. 



STATISTICS. 

Settled near Tucson. 

Settled in l( _ 

Kounded by .... Spaniards. 
Annexed to the United Stati 
Territory formed, .... 1863 
Population, in 1870, . . . 9,658 

In 1S80, 40,4JO 

White, 35,it>o 

Colored (civilized), . . . 5,280 
American-born, .... 24,391 

Foreign-born, 16,049 

Males, 28,202 

Females, 12,238 

In 1890 (census), .... 59.620 
Population to the square mile, C.4 
Voting Population, .... 
Vote for Congress (1890), 

Dem., 6,137 

Vote for Congress (1890), 

Rep 4.941 

Territorial Debt, . . . $769,000 
Assessed Property, . . $21,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . 113,020 
Delegates to Congress, . . i 

Militia (Disciplined), . . 307 

Counties 10 

Post-offices, 172 

Railroads (miles), .... 1,097 
Manufactures (yearly, in 

1880), $615,655 

Operatives, 220 

Yearly Wages, .... $111,180 

Farm Land (acre in 1880), 135.513 

Farm-Land Values, . $1,127,946 

Farm Products (yearly), $614,327 

Colleges and Professional 

Schools I 

School-Population, . . . 10,303 
School Attendance, . . . 3,849 

Public Libraries, 2 

Volumes, 8,000 

Newspapers, 34 

Latitude 31° 20' to 37° 

Longitude, . . . 69''53' to 73''32' 
Temperature, .... 8° to 109° 
Mean Temperature (Tucson), 69° 

TEN CHIFF PLACES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS. (Census of 1850 ) 

Tucson, 5,150 

Phoenix, ... ... 3, 



Tombstc 
Yuma, . . 
Prescott, . 
Hisbee, 
Florence, 
Nogalts, . 
Flagstaff, 
Globe, . 



1.875 
1.773 
1.759 
1.535 
1,486 
1.19+ 
963 
t03 



54 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



S. W. Kearney marched his command through the Gila Valley, and first brought this 
country to the notice of Americans. The part north of the Gila was ceded to the United 
States by Mexico in 1848, and the 40,000 square miles south of the Gila came by the 

Gadsden Purchase, in 1853, from Mexico, for 
$10,000,000. Gen. Gadsden made great efforts 
to have his purchase include Guaymas, but Con- 
gress did not support him, and thus Arizona is 
devoid of a seaport. 

In 1861 the United-States garrisons retreated 
to New Mexico, evacuating and destroying Forts 
Buchanan and Breckenridge. The Confederates 
captured Tucson and threatened Fort Yuma. 
With Texan raiders on one side, Sonorian plun- 
derers on another, and the murderous Apaches 
everywhere, the Territory was mercilessly laid waste, and many of its people fled into 
exile. In May, 1S62, Col. Carleton's column of 1800 Californians marched from Los An- 
geles to Yuma, and entered Arizona, occupying it permanently for the Union, after a few 




CASA GRANDE. 



skirmishes with the Texan bands Vt this 
tlements north of the Gila knci The 
apart from New Mexico until 1S63 Be 
the Indians massacred moic than i 000 
in 1876 the savages were placed on icser 

the railway locomotive ^ 

River, and the era of T 
came to an end. Yet even 
Apaches left their reser- 
many citizens of the Gila 
in the Sierra Madre, where 
with the Mexican Gov- 
foray occurred in 1885-6, 
before Gen. Miles cap- 
tains of Sonora. It is 
dangerous of the Apache 
quently to Florida and 
of Arizonians were killed 
of the hostile Apaches, 
has grown rapidly. The 
born Americans, from the 
na comes ivom A rizonac, 
the head of the Rio Al- 
ls sometimes called The Sunset Land 
show such grand effects of ^ > . , 

light and shade, such 
gorgeousness of coloring, 
or such magnificent sun- 
bathed landscapes." It is 
also known as The Apa- 
che State, from the war- 
rior tribe which for cen- 



CAVE DWELLINGS. 



time there were no set- 
Territory was not set 
tween 1864 and 1876 
whites in Arizona ; but 
vations ; and in 1878 
crossed the Colorado 
savagery and isolation 
late as 1882-3 the 
vations and murdered 
\ illc\ They finally took refuge 
Gen Ciook, acting by arrangement 
cmmcnt, attacked them. Another 
when Geionimo killed 50 persons 
tuicd the icd warriors in the moun- 
but 1 shoit time since the most 
bands weic banished to Texas, and subse- 
Alabama Yet even in 1891 a number 
by the Indians. Since the removal of many 
and the incoming of the railways, Arizona 
immigration has been mainly of native- 
Western and Southwestern States. Arizo- 
the native (Pima) name of a locality near 
tar. Patrick Hamilton says : ' ' Arizona 
and there is no icgion on the "-lobe that can 





GOVERNMENT MODEL OF EXTINCT PUEBLO TOWN. 



turies fought the troops 

of Spain, Mexico and the United States, and murdered thousands of miners, priests and 

travellers. These Bedouin of the West have destroyed nearly 200 towns and villages 



THE TERRITORY OF ARIZONA. 



55 



in the Mexican State adjoining Arizona, which is, therefore, sometimes called Infelix 
Sonora. 

The Arms <if Arizona bear a soUtary deer, with pine-trees and a giant cactus, and the 
San-Francisco Mountains beyond. The motto is Ditat Deus 
("Let God enrich"). 

The Governors of Arizona have been Joh;i N. Good- 
\rin, 1863-5; Richard C. McCormick, 1865-9; A. P. K. 
Safford, 1869-77 ; John P. Hoyt (acting), 1877-8 ; John 
(Charles Fremont, 1879-81 ; John J. Gosper (acting), 1881-2 ; 
J'^rederick A. Tritle, 1882-5 ; C. Meyer Zulick, 1885-9 ; Lewis 
Wolfley, 1889-90; and J. N. Irwin, 1890-4. 

Arizona covers an area equal to that of Italy, or of New- 
England and New-York combined. The chief features of the 
scenery are the vast volcanic mesas, or plateaus, from 3,000 
ti) 7,500 feet high, covering the northern half ; the deep canons 
CANON DE CHELLY. of the rivcrs ; and the arid plains south of the Gila. It is 

about 350 miles from New-Mexico, on the east, to California and Nevada on the west ; 
and 400 miles from Utah to Sonora. The mountain-system of Arizona has a general north- 
western trend, and unites the massive Sierra Madre of Mexico with the descending and 




intermingled terraces of the 

which meet near the Grand 

mountains rise in long chains 

huas, 100 miles long, are sep- 

artesian wells) from the 

Santa Rita and other ranges, 

Baboquivari overlooks the 

these groups high sierras look 

to the great mass of the Mo- 

of which, in the center of 

upland plain. Then the tre- 

the San-Francisco Moun- 

rise on the eastern front of a 

miles of peaks and ranges 

to the Colorado River. The 

mighty highlands is Mount 

high, crowned during more 

ing snows, and visible for 

the clear and rarefied air. 

on lies a series of vast uninhabited plateaus, the Sheavwitz, Uinkaret, Kanab, Kaibab 




Wahsatch Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, 
Caiion. From the illimitable plateau the higher 
and island-like groups. The well-watered Chirica- 
arated by the Sulphur-Spring Valley (famous for its 
Dragoon range ; and farther west lie the Sierra 
out to where the lone peak of 
land of the Papagos. From 
across the upper Gila valley 
gollon Mountains, westward 
Arizona, opens a great dry 
mendous volcanic spires of 
tains, over 12,000 feet high, 
labyrinth of 20,000 square 
and lonely valleys, extending 
sovereign summit of these 
San Francisco, 12,561 feet 
than half the year with shin- 
more than 200 miles through 
GIANT YUCCA. ^orth of the Colorado Can- 








and covered with 
and small grassy 



and Paria, flat on top and cut by deep gorges 

cones and flows of lava, fragments of forest, 

parks. The desolate Kaibab Plateau is 90 miles 

long and 35 miles wide, from 7,500 to 9,300 feet 

above the sea, and bordered by lofty battlements. 

South of the river rises a long series of forest-clad 

and canon-scored plateaus, overlooked by the lonely Red 

Butte, and stretching away to the huge volcanic cones of the 

San-Francisco Mountains. 

The most astonishing feature of Arizona scenery is the 
Colorado River, formed in Utah by the confluence of the 
Green River, from Fremont's Peak, in the Wind-River Mountains of Wyoming, and the Grand 
River, from Long's Peak, in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. The drainage area of this 




PETRIFIED FOREST. 



56 



AVNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




GRAND CANON. 



mighty stream is equal to New-England, the Middle States, Maryland and Virginia ; 
and its channel is i,ioo miles long, from the confluence of the rivers, or 2,000 miles long 
from tlif^ h<^nfl nf (rreen River. The Colorado separates Arizona from California and 
Nevada for over 400 miles. The remarkable feature of this 
stream is its passage through the most stupendous series of 
chasms in the world, with walls of marble and granite from 
1,000 to 6,500 feet high, very precipitous and oftentimes for 
many leagues perpendicular, sculptured into wildly fantastic 
forms and brilliantly tinted in deep red and yellow, brown and 
gray, purple and bla"ck. Sometimes these gigantic cliffs fairly 
overhang the water, and the boatman looking upward can see 
but a narrow strip of blue sky, apparently resting on the ragged 
crags. From the rim above, the river may be seen rushing and 
whitening in the lifeless depths below, but the distance is so 
great that no sound can be heard. On every side labyrinths 
of canons cut into the plateaus, through which the tributary 
streams plunge over resounding cataracts. The Colorado 
enters Arizona in the long Glen Canon, whose walls end at 
the shining Vermilion Cliffs, near the Paria River. Thence to 
the Colorado Chiquito, for a course of 65 miles, the water rushes through the Marble 
Canon, with pavements and enormous buttressed walls of white and gray, pink and purple 
marble, indented with shadowy caverns and carved 
into countless weird monumental forms. From 
the Colorado Chiquito to the hot desert of broken 
rocks and naked sands at the Grand Wash extentL 
the Grand Cailon of the Colorado, for a length of 
220 miles, with sheer walls from 5,000 to 6,500 feet 
high ; and in this distance the water descends 3,000 
feet, by many a white rapid and roaring cataract. 

In 1852 the steamboat Uncle Sam ascended from 
the Gulf to Yuma, and two years later the Gen. 
yesiip also reached Yuma. Lieut. Ivers ascended 
through the Black Cairon in 1858 with the steamboat Explorer. From 1872 until the 
building of the Southern Pacific Railroad, in 1877, ocean steamships ran from San Fran- 
cisco to the head of the Gulf of California, sending their cargoes up to Yuma on smaller 
boats. Now the lower part of the river, in Mexico, is rarely traversed by boats, the navi- 
gation being up-stream from Yuma (where the railroad crosses) to Castle Dome, Ehrenberg 
(130 miles from Yuma), Aubrey, Camp Mohave and Hardyville (338 miles from Yuma), 
and occasionally 153 miles farther up, .to Rioville, at the mouth of the Rio Virgen, . in 

Nevada. Two hundred-ton steamers frequently 
ascend to Rioville, in high water, after cargoes of 
rock-salt. Most of the freighting is done on 
barges, towed by small steamers, and traveling 
only by day, making about fifty miles between 
dawn and dark. The low water of December 
and the roaring floods of Spring equally baffle 
the boatmen, who are perplexed also by the 
shifting sand-bars. 

In 1869 Maj. J. \V. Powell and nine men 
descended through the Grand Cafion by boat 
from Green River, enduring several weeks of amazing peril and hardship ; and three 
members of his company were so daunted by their sufferings that they abandoned the 




APACHE PASS. 




IN THE GILA VALLEY. 



THE TERRITORY OF ARIZONA. 



57 







MEXICAN WOMEN WASHING. 



expedition midway and scaled the canon walls, only to be killed by the Indians of the 
plateaus. The Colorado Chiquito flows for nearly 200 miles through appalling gorges, 
which cut the plateaus into islanded shreds. In the south there are several rivers that die 
on the plains, like the Santa Cruz, the Hassayampa 
and the Agua Fria. The Gila is 650 miles long. 

With its castle domes and thumb buttes and soli- 
tary sugar-loaf peaks, and its mesas of bare rock, or 
beds of a.shes, or leagues of yellow and vermilion 
sands, Arizona abounds in the strange and the won- 
derful. Chalcedony Park, in Apache County, covers 
2,000 acres, amid a vast desert of sandstone and 
lava, with the fragments of thousands of gigantic 
pines and cedars, brought here by a flood or glacier, 
and changed by Nature's chemistry into brilliant 
chalcedony and other minerals, in exquisite colors. 
Jasper, sar4, carnelian, agate, chysoprase, and 
amethyst are also found in this petrifiei forest, from which great quantities of stone have 
been sent east, to be polished for ornaments. At one point, an agatized tree forms a 
natural bridge over a wide canon , and elsewhere the broken sections resemble piles of 
cart-wheels. 

The Tonto Basin has a wonderful natural bridge of limestone, 200 feet high, 400 feet 
wide, 1,000 feet long, and six feet thick at the top of the arch, where there is a hole through 

which one can look down on the crystal stream 
in the bottom of the canon. The natural 
wells of Arizona often attain a great depth, 
with a diameter of many feet. The Montezuma 
Well, 55 miles northeast of Prescott, is 600 feet 
across and 100 feet deep, and the Region of a 
svM Thousand Wells has many of these natural 
reservoirs, from 20 to 100 feet across. Many 
invalids visit the Castle-Creek Hot Springs, 
near the Bradshaw Mountains ; and others find 
relief at Fuller's Hot Springs, flowing from the magnificent Santa-Catalina Mountains. 

Arizona is a part of the great Mexican plateau, with its pure, dry and electric air, 
balmy in winter and parching in summer, and the attendant paucity of animal life, and a 
flora including many fantastic desert growths. The climate varies greatly, from the brac- 
ing air and deep winter snows of the north to the amazing heats of the region bordering on 
Sonora, in some parts of which the temperature passes 100° for 100 consecutive days, and 
sometimes reaches 112° in the shade. South of the 34th parallel the summers are twelve 
months long, and snow never falls. This intense fervor is not pro(.lucti\e nf disease, and 
sunstrokes are unknown, on account of the extraor- 
dinary dryness of the air, which reduces the sensil)lc 
temperature many degrees. While the lowlands ai c 
parched and dry, the mountains abound in rain ; and 
the chief local problem is, how to properly store 
up this highland water for gradual distribution along 
the valleys. The warm, dry and balmy air of Ari- 
zona is very agreeable to people with pulmonary or 
catarrhal complaints ; and thousands of invalids of 
this class come hither in the winter months. The 
rainfall is very small, especially in the south, reaching but seven inches a year at Tucson, 
and only three inches at Yuma. 




TUCSON : WOOD-PEDDLERS. 




FONT BOWIE. 



58 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




The Agriculture of Arizona depends upon artificial irrigation, by whose aid crops of 
wheat and alfalfa (clover) are raised, and vegetables of almost every variety. The fruit 
l)roduct includes oranges, lemons, limes, peaches, apples, apricots, figs, dates, olives and a 

variety of berries. Within ten 
years upwards of $4,000,000 have 
been spent on irrigating canals 
in Arizona. The Territory has 
1,000,000 cattle. 

The Mineral Resources of 
Arizona are enormous, and her 
leading industries are in mining 
and smelting, crushing and milling 
the ores. The modern output of 
tlie mines has passed $80,000,000 ; and their product in the days of Spanish control was 
very great. The export of silver has reached over $5,000,000 yearly. The treasure-lodes 
form a baldric crossing Arizona diagonally, for 400 miles, from the southeastern corner to the 
Black Canon. The silver veins of Tombstone are large and easily worked, and have pro- 
duced $33,000,000 worth of treasure since their discovery in 1878. Ed. Schieffelin, being 
about to depart into the mountains prospecting, told a friend that he hoped to find a mine. 
"You'll find a tombstone," was the answer; and so the rich mines discovered on the trip, 
and the city of 6,000 people that rose near them, on a mesa nearly a mile above the sea- 
level, were called Tombstone — and the local news- 
paper bears tlie name of The Epitaph. Arizona's 
exports of copper have reached $4, 000, 000 in a year. 
The copper deposits at Clifton are among the richest 
in the world. The Copper Queen, at Bisbee, runs 
several large smelters and has made as high as 
$ 1,000,000 a year. The Old-Dominion Copper Mines 
are at Globe, with two 40-ton smelters. 

Government. — The Governor and executive 
officers and Supreme-court Judges are appointed by 
the President ; and the people elect members of the 
biennial Legislature and a Congressional delegate. 
The Territorial Prison is at Yuma, the Insane Asylum near Phoenix, and the Normal School 
at Tempe. The Territorial University is at Tucson. Arizona has 24 weekly and eight 
daily newspapers, several of which are in Spanish. 

Phoenix, the capital, is among the vineyards and orange-groves of the mountain-walled 
Salt-river Valley, in an oasis made by irrigation, with a climate of short and sunny winters 

and long summers. 

Tucson is in the Santa-Cruz Valley, with four 
churches and five newspapers, gas, ice, and water 
works, a tannery and a smelter, and a large trade 
with Sonora. Prescott stands at an elevation of 
5,700 feet, with a bracing and salubrious climate, 
and in a region rich in mines and in magnificent 
mountain-scenery. 

Railroads. — The Southern Pacific runs from 

Doming througji the Chiricahua mountains to 

Tucson and Maricopa, and thence along the Gila 

The Atlantic & Pacific Railway runs through northern Arizona. At the Needles 




MOQUI PUEBLOS. 




INSCRIPTION ROCK. 



to Yuma. 

it crosses the Colorado on a remarkable cantilever bridge, and enters California. 

other minor routes are also in operation. 



Several 





435p4';o 
4841 471 
802,52=, 

591. «! 

210,666 
792. 1 "S 
10)350 
416,279 
386, 2^6 
1,128,179 



The first civilized peo- 
ple to enter the land of 
the Arkansas Indians were 
the Spanish men-at-arms 
of Hernando de Soto, who 
crossed the Mississippi just 
below Helena, in 1 541, and 
remained in the country 
several months. The lit- 
tle army marched into the 

Boston Mountains, and then turned south across the Ar- 
kansas, and followed the Ouachita River into Louisiana. 

The next European visitor was Marquette, who, in 1673, 

with Joliet, descended the Mississippi to the Arkansas 

River and made a map of the region. Hennepin was 

possibly the next explorer, in 1680. LaSalle in 1682 

stopped at the Quapaw Village, at the mouth of the 

Arkansas, and took possession in the name of Louis XIV., 

King of France. The first white settlement was made 

in 1686, at Arkansas Post, by Frenchmen, from a party led 

by the Chevalier de Tonti. In 1718 John Law obtained 

a grant of land twelve miles square on the Arkansas 

River, near the Quapaw Village, which he erected into a 

Duchy and colonized with a company from Germany and 

France ; but his scheme failed and the settlement was 

abandoned. In 1763 the Province of Louisiana, including 

Arkansas, was ceded to Spain, and remained in her pos- 
session until i8cx), when it again became a French province. 

At the census of 1798 there were 36S persons in the Com- 
mand of Arkansas, a district larger than the present State. 

Arkansas became a part of the United States in 1803, by 

the purchase of Louisiana, and it was formed, with the 

lower part of Missouri, into the District of New Madrid. 

Three years later, the lower part of this District was laid 

off as the District of Arkansaw. In 1812 Louisiana became a State, and the remainder of 

the French cession was organized as the Missouri Territory, of which Arkansas formed the 

eighth county. The Territory of Arkansaw was created in 1819; and General James 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at .... Arkansas Post 

Settled in 1685 

Founded by .... Frenchmen 
Admitted to the United States, 1836 



Population in i860. 
Population in 1870, 
Population in 1880, 

VVhite, . . . 

Colored, . . . 

American-born, 

Foreign-born, . 

Males, . . . 

Females, . . . 
Population in 18(50, 
Population to the square mile, 15.1 
Voting Population, . . . 182,977 

Vote for Harrison (1888), 58,752 

Vote for Cleveland (1888), 85,962 
Net State debt, .... $13,309 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property, .... $172,408,497 
Area (square miles), . . . 531850 
U. S. Keoresentatives (m 1893I, 6 
Militia (disciplined), .... 2,320 

Counties, 76 

Post-offices, 1,538 

Kailroads (mile-), 2,213 

Manufactures (yearly), . $7,000,000 

Operatives, 4i5o6 

Vearly Wages $925,358 

Farm I, and (in acres), . 12,061,541 
Farm-I, and Values, . .$74,240,655 
Farm Products (j-early), . $45,000,000 

Colleges 4 

School-Population, . . . 40.1,379 
School Attendance, . . 141,500 
Public Libraries, I 

Volumes 20,00*) 

Newspapers 198 

Latitude 3^° to 36" 30' N, 

Longitude, . . 89''45' to Q4''40' W. 
I'emperature, .... 7%° to 98° 
Mean Temperature (Little 

Rock), .63° 

Ten Chief Places and Their 
Populations. (Census of 1800.) 



Little Rock, 
Fort Smith, 
Pine Bluff. . . 
Hot Springs, . 
Helena, . . . 
Eureka Springs, 
Texarkana, (Ark 
Fayetteville, . 
Camden, . . 
Arkadelphia, 



25.874 
11.31J 
9,952 
8,c86 
5,189 
3,706 
3.528 
2,942 
2,571 
2,455 



6o 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




HOT SPRINGS : 



HELL'S HALF ACRE. 



Miller of New Hampshire was the first governor, appointed by President Monroe. At this 
time the Quapaw Indians held the central part of the State, which was obtained from them 
by treaty in 1824, and partly occupied for several years by the Choctaws. The Cherokee 

Nation after iSiyheld the northwest part (formerly 
the Osage country), which they gave up in 1828. 
The first legislature met at Arkansas Post, the 
capital until 182 1, when the seat of government 
passed to Little Rock. The census of 1820 gave 
the Territory a population of 14,255. Arkansas 
became a State in 1836, its first governor being 
James S. Conway. It then had a population of 
47,700. 

At the outbreak of the Civil War the sentiment 
of the people was in favor of the Union ; but it soon 
turned, and in May, 1861, an ordinance of secession was passed, and the State was admitted 
into the Southern Confederacy in the same month. Out of a voting population of 61,198 
in i860, 50,000 enlisted in the Confederate service, while over 13,000 entered the Union 
service. 

The Confederate army of 30,000 men, under Van Dorn, was defeated in a long battle 
at Pea Ridge (March 6-8, 1862); and Curtis's Union troops marched to Helena. Blunt 
and Herron defeated Hindman's Confederates at Prairie Grove 
(December 7, 1862), 1,000 men falling in each army. 
A few weeks later, a United-States fleet, after a long 
bombardment, captured the fortress of Arkansas Post 
and its garrison of 5,000 men. September 10, 1863, 
Gen. Steele occupied Little Rock, with the Army of 
Arkansas, and re-established the National authority. 
The most disastrous results arose from the guerilla 
warfare, which was peculiarly favored by the remote- 
ness of this region from the main armies, and the 
rugged nature of the country. These marauders were 
despised alike by Union and Confederate troops, and the bitter feelings engendered lasted 
for many years, and helped make the "Reconstruction days" a dark period in Southwestern 
history. The State remained under military rule from 1865 until 1868, when a constitution 
was framed, and Arkansas again became a part of the Union. 

In the decade of the great civil war, the advance of the State was retarded greatly, but 
since the drums ceased to roll along the Arkansas Valley, and especially since the recon- 
struction troubles passed away, a 
new era of growth has begun, with 
a noble progress in order and pros- 
perity. Stafe scrip has advanced 
m value, and is now at par ; the 
State debt has been reduced, and 
the county indebtedness adjusted ; 
schools have opened for both races ; 
ind immigration and capital have 
nicreased, all contributing to an 
unprecedented growth. The com- 
^ mon-school system has been so 

carefully guarded as to win the 
plaudit of being among the best in the South. The most stringent and inevitable laws have 
latterly been made and enforced, against buying, selling or carrying weapons, and this 




CRESCENT SPRING. 




WHITE RIVER 



THE STATE OE ARKANSAS. 




dangerous custom has to a great extent passed away. The vice of drunkenness has also 
been greatly abated by the prohibition laws, which are now enforced in nearly 50 
counties. There were 112,000 slaves freed in Arkansas, and one-third of the population is 
of African descent. 

The Name of the State iirst appeared on Marquette's map in 
1673, and belonged to an Indian tribe living on the Mississippi, 
near the mouth of the Arkansas River. Shea thinks that was a 
title given by the Algonquins to the Quapaw tribe ; and its mean- 
ing is not known, the theories that it came from Arc (Jbow) Kansa 
(from the strong bows used by these Indians), or from Arc-en-saitg, 
being purely fanciful. The name has been doubtfully interpreted 
as "Bow of Smoky Water." In 1881 it was "Resolved by both 
houses of the General Assembly : That the only true pronunciation 
of the name of the State is that received from the native Indians by 
the French, and committed to writing ; and that it should be pro- 
nounced with the final s silent, the a with the Italian sound, and ' "' '' ^ 

' ' . FORESTS. 

the accent on the first and last syllables — being the pronunciation 

formerly universal and now still most commonly used." Arkansas is known as The Bear 

State, from the number of these animals that once infested her forests. Her people used to 

be called Toothpicks, in playful allusion to the huge bowie-knives carried by the pioneers. 
The Arms of Arkansas (adopted in 1864) consist of a shield, upon M'hich is embla- 
zoned a steamboat, plough, bee-hive, and sheaf 
of wheat. This is borne on the breast of an 
• eagle, who holds in his talons an olive-branch 
and a bundle of arrows. There is also an 
angel, inscribed "Mercy," and a sword, in- 
scribed "Justice." The crest is the Goddess 
of Liberty, holding a wreath, and a pole with 
a liberty-cap, and nearly surrounded with 
radiant stars. The motto is Regnant Populi, 
("The People Rule"). 
The Governors have been : Territorial: 

James Miller, 1819-25 ; Geo. Izard, 1825-9; John Pope, 1829-35 ; Wm. S. Fulton, 1835-6. 

State: James S. Conway, 1836-40; Archibald Yell, 1 840-4 ; Thomas S. Drew, 1844-9; 

John S. Roane, 1849-52; John R. Hampton (acting), 1852; Elias N. Conway, 1852-60; 

Henry M. Rector, 1860-2; Thomas Fletcher (acting), 1862; Harris Flanagin, 1862-4; 

Isaac Murphy, 1864-8; Powell Clayton, 1868-71 ; Ozro A. Hadley (acting), 187 1-3; 

Elisha Baxter, 1873-4; Augustus H. Garland, 1874-7; Wm. R. Miller, 1877-81 ; Thos. 

J. Churchill, 1881-2; James H. Berry, 1883-5; Simon P. Hughes, 1885-9; James P. 

Eagle, 1889-93. -.- _ 

Descriptive. — Arkansas is larger '' .'Si .•'-__:■ , . - 

than England, New York, or Virginia ; ,. - "'. -'—--^ - " ' . .■/.■ -£.:''."■_ -.• -' 

and when settled as thickly 

as Massachusetts will have 

12,000,000 inhabitants. The 

St. -Louis, Iron-Mountain & 

Southern Railway divides the 

State into highlands on the 

west and north, and lowlands 

on the east and south. The 

lowlands have an elevation of 300 feet above the Gulf of Mexico, while the highlands rise 

in places to 3,000 feet, the eastern portion and the "bottoms" containing the most fertile 




WHITE RIVER : COTTON BOAT. 




■ FARMING IN ARKANSAS 




62 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 







'•i^'^?:^/ 



arkadelphia: ouaohita college. 



lands, best adapted to cotton. Portions of this area, along the large streams, remain sub- 
ject to overflow, and are therefore not so healthful as the western and northern parts of the 
State. In the flat region between Little Rock and Memphis are great prairies devoted to 
grazing. South of the Arkansas the ridges have an east and west trend, 
and an elevation of i,ooo feet, rising in Polk County (Round and Rich 
Mountains) to 2,450 and 2,650 feet ; in Scott County (Poteau, Petit-Jean 
and Fourche Mountains), to from 2,450 to 2,850 feet, and in 
Logan County reaching 2,850 feet, in Magazine Mountain. 
Toward the east the land falls away until, at Little Rock, 
the hilly country has an elevation of but 500 feet. The 
mountainous region south of the Arkansas is adapted to 
fruit and cattle raising, and produces much cotton and 
corn. North of- the Arkansas and at the eastern end of 
the highlands the country rises from the alluvial bottoms 
to the Blue Mountains (the eastern end of the Boston 
range), in Stone and Searcy counties, reaching an elevation of 1,800 feet. The north face 
of the Boston Mountains forms a steep escarpment, and the region to the north is here hilly 
and cut by deep gorges, and there gently undulating and covered by fertile fields. To the 
west the Boston Mountains broaden out and reach higher elevations, their spurs extending 
southward to near the Arkansas River, and the range con- 
tinuing into the Indian Territory. On the south face, the 
mountains rise here and there in a series of steep and 
rugged cliffs and terraces to 3,000 feet above tide. 
The St. -Louis & San-Francisco Railway crosses the 
range between Fort Smith and Fayetteville, with 
costly tunnels and galleries. Different sec- 
tions and spurs of the Boston Mountains 
have local names. The mountainous region 
and the area lying north of the Boston 
range form one of the most remarkable 
apple-growing districts in the United States. 
The rich farms of the north are devoted to 
apples and corn, wheat and clover, and oats. Much cotton is also raised, but agriculture 
is not so completely given over to it here as it is south of the Boston Mountains. This 
part of the State is abundantly supplied with the finest springs of clear cold water. 

The streams of Arkansas navigable by steamboats aggregate 3,250 miles in length. 
The Mississippi winds along the eastern border for 408 miles. There are steamboat lines 
from Little Rock to Memphis, St. Louis, Cincinnati and New Orleans. The chief danger 
is from snags, but these are torn out of the 

rivers, by patrolling snag-boats owned and - 

manned by the United- States Govern- 
ment. There are 16 steamboats on 
the rivers, carrying 60,000 passengers 
yearly, and 230,000 tons of freight. 
The Arkansas is a noble stream, 1,600 
miles long. After breaking through 
the Colorado canons it flows through 
Kansas and the Indian Territory, aug- 
mented by the Canadian (900 miles), 
the Cimarron (650 miles), and the 
Neosho (450 miles) ; and divides Arkansas into nearly equal portions. It is navigable to 
Little Rock, Fort Smith, and (in high water) Fort Gibson, 462 miles. Grain was brought 




FORT SMITH 




fayetteville: Arkansas industrial university. 



THE STATE OE ARKANSAS. 




HOT SPRINGS : U. S. ARMY AND NAVY HOSPITAL. 



down from Kansas in light-draught steamboats, in 1878. It is 309 miles by river from 
Fort Gibson to Wichita, Kansas. In January, June, and November disastrous floods some- 
times visit this great valley. The White River, 700 miles long, is navigable from the 

Mississippi up to Batesville, 280 miles ; and in 
spring boats can ascend to Forsythe, Missouri 
(502 miles). The bottom-lands are rich in cot- 
ton, corn and wheat. The Ouachita may be 
ascended at high water to Arkadelphia, 445 
miles ; and at other seasons to Camden, 369 
miles. Black River is navigable to Poplar Bluff, 
311 miles; the St. Francis, to Wittsberg, 135 
miles; Red River, for 120 miles; the Saline, to 
Mount Elba, 125 miles; and Bayou Bartholo- 
mew for 175 miles. The rivers and lakes 
abound in perch and suckers, buffalo and cat- 
fish, bass and trout, crappie and salmon, pike 
and pickerel, and other valuable food-fish. 

The world-renowned Hot Springs of Arkansas are 55 miles southwest of Little Rock, 
and reached by a branch railway from Malvern, on the Iron-Mountain route. The main 
street lies in the narrow gorge between Hot- Springs Mountain and West Mountain : and 
has on one side a long line of hotels and stores, and on 
the other nearly a score of bath-houses, some of which are 
large and costly brick buildings, with many enamelled por- 
celain tubs. The little valley is about 600 feet above the 
sea, and near the Ouachita River, whose vast valley is over- 
looked from the Government observatory. Ten thousand 
people come here yearly, to seek benefit from the remark- 
able curative waters ; and a city of 12,000 inhabitants has 
risen here, with many small villas and cottages occupied by 
chronic invalids. The springs up on the mountain-side are 
piped down to the bath-houses, so hot that cold water has to be added in the tubs. Heated 
vapors rise from the water, and carbonic-acid gas bubbles up through it. Thick layers 
of tufa have been deposited by the springs. The hot springs along the creek are used for 
drinking. The waters are beneficial in cases of diseases of the skin, blood and nerves, and 
for rheumatism and syphilis, but often prove harmful in acute diseases of the heart, lungs 
and brain. After three weeks of daily bathing, the patient rests for a week, and then takes 
another three weeks. The medicinal virtue of these waters has been ascribed mainly to 
their high temperature and their purity. They carry some silica and carbonate of lime, and 

very small proportions of some other minerals in solution. 
The 73 springs vary in temperature from 93° to 168^, 
(hot enough to cook eggs) and pour out daily 500,000 
gallons of clear, tasteless and odorless water. The 
United-States Government ovsms the springs and a valu- 
able reservation at this Arkansas Bethesda, and has 
established here a large Army and Navy Hospital, where 
hundreds of disabled officers and soldiers are sent every 
year, generally returning to the service cured and fit for 
duty. The Senate has under discussion a proposition for 
founding here also an immense hospital for the ailing veterans of the Soldier's Homes. 

The Hotel Eastman, the chief of the Hot-Springs hotels, opened in 1890, is a mag- 
nificent semi-Moresque structure, practically fire-proof, heated by steam and lighted "by 
electricity, and partly surrounding a pleasant park and grounds. It can entertain 800 







^Si^'H 


^^H 



HOT SPRINGS : CENTRAL AVENUE. 




HOT springs; THE BATH HOUSES. 



64 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




guests, and has accommodations as low as $3 a day. All the resources of modern hotel 
science have been drawn upon to make this great inn as luxurious as possible. The value 
of the property exceeds half a million dollars. The parlors are grand, and so are the dining- 
rooms, ordinary and rotunda. For the men there are special parlors and reading-rooms, 

card-rooms, and the billiard-hall ; and the ladies 
also have their own parlors and reading-room. The 
500 guest-rooms are furnished in antique oak and 
cherry. A short bridge across a street leads to the 
hotel bath-house, with its eight parlors and forty 
bath-rooms, abounding in brass and marble and 
Roman porcelain. Immensely broad verandas look 
out over the park, and there are broad balconies on 
the roof. The observatory tower rises like a mina- 
ret, 200 feet above the city, and looks out over the 
mountains and the far-away Ouachita River, flashing 
along its dreamy valleys. The Eastman is one of the model resorts of the world. 

Within a few miles of Hot Springs are the Potash Sulphur, Mountain-Valley, Gillen's 
White-Sulphur and other celebrated springs, each with its hotel and other accommodations. 
Eureka Springs, founded in 1879, i'^ ^^^ White-River Mountains, is now a city and health- 
resort, visited by invalids suffering from rheumatism, dyspepsia, cancer and Bright's disease. 
The surrounding country is picturesque, with its high limestone cliffs and deep caverns and 
mountain-views. Ravenden Springs flow from a high cliff, in the north, cold and clear, and 
beneficial in cases of dyspepsia. The Searcy Springs are white sulphur, chalybeate and 
alum. The Electric Springs, near the Frisco Line, and the Indian Springs, near Neosho, 
are among the other health-resorts of Arkansas. 

The Climate of the hill and plateau counties is one of the^most temperate in America, 
being free from the droughts of Southern summers and the rigors of Northern winters. 
The equability of the temperature has been likened to that of the south of France. Chan- 
cellor Eakin pronounced the State, as to climate, " The Italy of America." It is favorable 
for the relief of bronchial and pulmonary complaints, rheumatism and catarrh. The short 
open winters are succeeded by long and balmy seasons, kindly to agriculture. The climate 
of the lowlands, especially in the uncultivated regions, 
is malarious. The summer mean temperature is from 
76° to 80°, rising to 80° and 88° in the southeast ; and 
the winter mean is from 28° to 40°, north of the 
Boston Mountains, and from 40° to 52° southward. 
The summer average at Little Rock is 71.5°; the 
winter average is 48.4°. The average for 20 years 
at Fort Smith is 60.91°. 

Farming employs 83 per cent, of the people of 
Arkansas, which is the most exclusively agricultural 
State in the Union. It has 100,000 farms, with a 
larger percentage of products to value of farms than 
in almost any other State. Among the articles produced yearly are 6oo,ooo bales of cotton, 
valued at $26,000,000; 900,000 bushels of sweet potatoes; 1,000,000 pounds of tobacco ; 
42,000,000 bushels of corn, valued at $20,000,000; 2,000,000 bushels of wheat ; 5,000,000 
bushels of oats; and 25,000 tons of hay. The State also yields molasses and sorghum, 
honey and wine. Five per cent, of the land is not tillable, and 32 per cent, is in cultivation. 
The tillable lands are divided into the alluvial plains of the river valleys, the prairie land, 
and the uplands. The river bottoms are remarkable for fertility. Most of the upland 
regions have a fertile though thinner soil. The agricultural implements are generally crude, 
as are the methods of cultivation, especially in the remote districts. Marked improvements, 




LITTLE ROOK : LAND OFFICE ST. 



THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 65 

however, have been made in this line in the last few years by the introduction of improved 
machinery and a more thorough system of cultivation. The hilly and mountainous north- 
western region is admirably adapted to fruit-growing. Apples as fine as any in the Union 
are raised here, and peaches are an almost spontaneous crop, while grapes, cherries and other 
small fruits flourish. It is only in recent years fruit-culture has received much attention, 
and this promises soon to be one of the most productive fruit-regions in the country. 

There are about 30,000 square miles of timber land in Arkansas, the most abundant 
being the yellow pine, which is commonly sold in northern markets 
of "Georgia pine." There are 15,000 square miles of pine land. 
The cypress is found in the swamps of the east and south. 
Different species of oaks abound, the white oaks being the 
most numerous and valuable. Yellow poplar occurs in 
the east, and cedar is abundant in the northern moun- 
tains. Other valuable woods are walnut, cherry, sweet 
gum, hickory, beech, maple, elm and ash. Persimmon, 
pecan, catalpa, sycamore, buckeye, dogwood, and locust 
are some of the other common varieties. 

From these forests, $20,000,000 worth of lumber is cut yearly, large shipments being 
made to Europe. The woods are well-stocked with game, the deer and wild turkeys of the 
Deer Range, beyond Black River, the foxes and deer of the Pine-Bluff country, the bear 
and deer of the Pennington Forest, the panthers and wolves, bear and deer of the Fort- 
Smith region. The domestic live-stock is valued at $25,000,000, and includes 320,000 
horses and mules, 825,000 cattle, 225,000 sheep and 1,600,000 swine. The winterless years 
of Arkansas are peculiarly favorable for farmers, since the plough need never be idle. 
Their fruits and vegetables are the first in the Western markets. The apples raised here 
have no superiors for beauty and flavor ; and grapes and peaches are equally successful in 
this land of temperate and long-enduring sunshine. Arkansas is fourth among the States in 
the value of her crops per acre cultivated, being surpassed only by Rhode Island, Massa- 
chusetts and Louisiana. There are United- 
States land offices at Little Rock and Dar- 
danelle, Camden and Harrison. Large 




ARKANSAS SCHOOL FOR THE BLIND. 







LITTLE ROCK : 




LiTTLt KUUK ; UtAh-MUTb INtjTilUrt. 



STATE INSANE ASYLUM. 

areas of land are still open, 5,000,000 acres of 
United-States domain standing ready for grants 
to actual settlers. The State has 2,000,000 
acres ; and the railroads also hold enormous 
tracts of land-grants, ready for sale at low prices 
and on easy terms of payment. 

In 1853 Congress granted a vast area of land 
to the St. -Louis, Iron-Mountain & Southern Railway ; and after the Secession storm, this 
grant was confirmed, in 1866. On these millions of acres, stretching like a baldric from 
northeastern to southwestern Arkansas, the railroad has settled a great number of farmers, 
selling their lands at low prices, and on long time. The climate is favorable for agricultural 
pursuits, with a season of cultivation extending from February to November ; and the fertile 
soil offers unusual inducements to immigrants. Another great tract of 800,000 acres now 
open to settlement pertains to the Little-Rock & Fort-Smith Railroad, whose line it follows 
up the beautiful and broad Arkansas Valley, productive of cotton and oats, corn and wheat, 
and the best of fruits and vegetables. This rich belt lies between the Magazine Mountains 



66 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LITTLE rock: FIRST NATIONAL BANK. 



on the south, and the Boston Mountains on the north, in the heart of the State, and is fast 
developing into a populous and prosperous farming region. The land offices of these com- 
panies are at Little Rock, under the superintendence of Col. Thomas Essex. 

The Finances of Arkansas were seriously affected by the 
profligate expenditures of the carpet-bag governments during 
the Reconstruction era, and in 1874 Gov. Garland found the 
treasury empty, and a great public debt outstanding. The 
rising tide of prosperity throughout the State has swept away 
this unfortunate condition of finance, and brought in a securer 
and happier condition of affairs. The entire debt, outside of 
that' owed to the United States, will be retired in a few years. 
The oldest incorporated bank in Arkansas is the First National 
Bank, whose building at Little Rock is the finest for the pur- 
pose within the borders of the State. The First National Bank 
is under the presidency of H. G. AUis, one of the foremost 
public men of the State, and a firm supporter of every wise 
enterprise. The institution has grown with the growth of the 
community, and now has a capital of $500,000, with a surplus 
fund and undivided profits exceeding $100,000, and resources of $1,750,000. 

Minerals. — A geological reconnaissance of the State was begun in 1858-9, under Dr. 
David Dale Owen, and resumed in 1887, when a comple.te geological survey was undertaken 
under the direction of Dr. John C. Branner. This survey has shown that the chief minerals 
are coal, lignite, manganese, marble, limestone, granite and other building stones, Mexican 
onyx, novaculites, aluminum ore, gypsum, chalk, fertilizing marls, saline and mineral waters, 
china and pottery clay. Slate has been quarried; and the iron ore of Lawrence County 
was once utilized. Zinc occurs in the north, and antimony is mined in Sevier County. A 
copper-mine has been opened in Searcy County ; and steatite is found in Saline County. 
The gray, pink and variegated Arkansas marble is of the same character as the Tennessee 
marble, and occurs in great quantity and in good condition for quarrying. No marble 
industry has been attempted here. The manganese region is one of the most productive 
and valuable in l^Iorth America, the ore being especially adapted to the manufacture of 
Bessemer steel. The blue granites cover twelve square miles, and the stone is remarkably 
beautiful and strong, being well adapted to architectural work, as well as for paving. The 
novaculites (or whetstone rocks) are found only in this State, where they cover a large 
area, in Hot-Spring, Garland, Montgomery and Polk counties. The finer whetstones used 
by dentists, jewelers and engravers, and all our razor-hones, come from this region. Chalk, 
such as that used in Europe in making Portland cement, occurs in Little-River County, 
while the finest of plastic, refractory and alum clays abound in the centre and south. 
The coal is especially valuable, and available for many uses. Sor 
is bituminous and some semi-anthracite. It occurs in 
workable quantities in eight of the western counties. The 
coal industry is being rapidly developed. The total 
product for 1887 was 129,600 tons, while that for 
1888 was 276,871 tons. Lignite abounds in the 
south, especially about Camden. The distribution 
of Arkansas minerals is given in detail in the reports 
of the Geological Survey. 

Government. — The governor is elected every 
two years. The Legislature meets biennially. There 
are 32 senators and 92 representatives. The Judiciary is composed of the Supreme Court, 
with five justices; the chancery court; and 16 circuit courts. The Eastern District 
United-States Court sits at Little Rock ; the Western District, at Fort Smith. The State 




LITTLE ROCK : BOARD OF TRADE. 



THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 



67 




LITTLE ROCK : FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH. 



House is a small classic building, with wings, looking down on the Arkansas River, at 
Little Rock. It was founded in 1833. At Little Rock stands a monument, erected by 
legislative order, to commemorate the public services of Ambrose H. Sevier, delegate of 
Arkansas in Congress from 1827 to 1836, and United-States Senator from 1837 until 1848. 
The State Insane Asylum, Deaf-Mute Institute, and School for the Blind are on the beau- 
tiful pine-hills south and west of Little Rock, viewing the city, the river, and the distant 
mountains. Here also is the State Penitentiary, whose 600 convicts are managed on the 
lease system, in convict-camps, except about 75, who remain in the prison. 

Education. — Arkansas is paying more for free-school education, in proportion to its 
taxable property, than any other State. One million dollars is spent yearly for schools, 
and many buildings have been erected recently. Between 1874 and 1890 the property 
of the State I increased 100 per cent., but the school-appropriations increased 2400 
per cent., and ^^ the enrollment of school-children rose from 59,000 to 205,000. The 

Arkansas Industrial University, founded in 1868, with 
the United- States land grant of 1862, has 30 instructors, 
and 85 students (of both sexes) in the regular college 
course, and 348 in the preparatory departments. Pro- 
vision is made for 1,000 beneficiary students, to be sent 
from the various counties, in proportion to their popula- 
tion, with appointments from the county judges. The 
courses are engineering, classical, agricultural and normal, with manual training shops. The 
young men are uniformed, and form a battalion, commanded by a United-States Army 
officer. The University buildings are spacious and modern, on a breezy plateau near Fay- 
etteville, in northwestern Arkansas, and overlooking the picturesque Boston Mountains. 
The Branch Normal College is a department of the University, established in 1875 "^^ Pine 
Bluff, with several buildings in a twenty-acre park. It has about 180 students. The medi- 
cal department of the University began its career in 1879, ^'^ Little Rock, and has 70 
students. At Little Rock, also, are the little-Rock University (Methodist), Philander- 
Smith College (for colored people) and the Arkansas Female College, occupying the former 
residence of Gen. Albert Pike, the poet and author. Cane-Hill College is at Boonsboro, 
and Hendrix College is at Conway. Among other institutions are Ouachita College (Bap- 
tist) at Arkadelphia, with 250 students ; and the colleges at Batesville (Presbyterian), 
Judsonia, Searcy, Morrilton, Altus and other towns. 

Chief Cities. — Little Rock, the capital and chief commercial city, is near the centre of 
the State, on the broad and noble Arkansas River, which here winds through a rich rolling 
country. A little rock near the shore here was the first bit of stone to be seen on the 
western bank from the Mississippi to this point, and so the old voyageiirs called the place 
for this landmark. It is a healthy, handsome and high-placed city, with broad granite- 
paved and electric-lighted streets, lined with fragrant magnolias and traversed by horse- 
cars, a spacious wharfage for the packet-steamers, and 30 churches. The city has an active 
Board of Trade, and by its various railway and river connec- 
tions receives 70,000 bales of cotton every season, to be han- 
dled in its compresses. The local trade reaches $25,000,000 
a year. The United-States and Pulaski-County Court- Houses 
are handsome and costly buildings. The United-States 
Arsenal, where two companies of artillery are stationed, 
is celebrated for its noble old trees, and has one of the 
finest parade-grounds in America. Fort Smith, on 
the upper Arkansas, has four newspapers and 16 
churches, with several railways. At the old frontier- 
post on this site Gens. Taylor, Hancock and Ar- 
buckle were stationed. Helena is a railway terminus 




DEPARTMENT 
OF ARKANSAS 
tNDlSTRIAL 
UNIVERSITY. 



LiriLE-ROCK UNIVERSITY. 



68 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



and shiretown, on the Mississippi River, and has some manufacturing, and large shipping 
interests. Pine Bluff is an important cotton port, on the Arkansas, with many negroes. 
The Railroads "f Arkansas had but 85 miles of track in i860, from Memphis to Madi- 

son, and from Little Rock to Duvall's 

Bluff. The St. -Louis, Iron-Moun- 
tain & Southern Railway owns up- 
wards of 800 miles of track in Ar- 
kansas, running from the Missouri 
line (at Moark) to Texarkana, diag- 
onally across the State (303^ miles); 
with minor lines from Knobel to 
Helena, 140 miles ; from Bald Knob 
to Memphis, 93 ; and to Warren, Nashville, Hot Springs, Camden and Batesville. The 
same company (the Missouri-Pacific system) also controls the great route running south- 
eastward across the State from Fort Smith to Little Rock and Arkansas City. The 
St. -Louis, Arkansas & Texas Railway, the "Cotton-Belt Route," runs from opposite Cairo 




LITTLE ROCK : 



several 
Francisco 
western 
Springs 



through Pine Bluff and Camden to Texarkana (and Waco, Texas), with 
branches, and 417 miles of line in Arkansas. The St. Louis & San- 
Railroad, from Seligman to Fort Smith, has a large trade in the north- 
counties ; and the Kansas-City, Fort-Scott & Gulf Line runs from Mammoth 
to Memphis. Lines are being built from Little Rock to Fayetteville, 
to Clarendon, to Hot Springs, to Alexandria, La., to Salem, Mo., 
and to Fort Smith, south of the Arkansas River. , • _: 

The Manufactures of Arkansas are small, as compared 
with the quantities of raw material found within her borders. 
Her coal, lumber, clays, marble, chalk, building stone, whet- 
stone, manganese and cotton, will undoubtedly cause the manu- 
facturing interests to increase in the future. Li 1880 there 
were in Arkansas 1,202 manufacturing establishments employ- 
ing about 5,000 hands, and a capital of $3,000,000. Li 1887 
the number of factories had increased to 2,400, employing 
16,000 hands and capitalized at $58,000,000. Flour and lumber mills employ the great 
bulk of this investment. 




LITTLE ROCK : COURT-HOUSE. 



"We know that Arkansas abounds in all the material elements of wealth and greatness'; 
that she has over 2,000,000 acres of State lands to be donated to actual settlers, and that 
there are within her borders 5,000,000 acres of public lands of the United States subject to 
homestead entry, to be had in 160-acre tracts at a cost of not over twenty dollars per tract. 
That many of these lands have gathered fertility from the repose of centuries ; that the cli- 
mate of Arkansas is equable, genial and healthful, and free from 
extremes of heat and cold. We know that these lands will pro- 
duce fine Indian corn, wheat, oats, clover and other grasses, 
vegetables and melons, berries and small fruit in rich abundance, 
not to mention cotton, in which we excel every other State in the 
quantity grown per acre ana the quality of the fibre ; or apples, 
in the excellence, beauty, flavor and value of which we have ex- 
celled in all competition at New Orleans, Louisville, St. Louis, 
and Boston at the meeting of the American Pomological Society 
in 1886. We are rich in timber, having 30,000 square miles of 
grand forests of the most valuable varieties; rich in minerals, having over 12,000 square 
miles of coal fields, an abundance of iron, manganese, zinc, copper, marble, granite, lime- 
stone, lithograph and soapstone." — Gov. Simon P. Hughes. 




LITTLE ROCK : 
POST-OFFICE AND CUSTOM-HOUSE, 




In 1534 the Spanish offi- 
cers Mendoza and Grijalva 
discovered Lower Califor- 
nia, and the Gulf was ex- 
plored by Cortez. In 1542 
Cabrillo followed the Pacific 
coast up to Cape Mendo- 
cino, which he named in 
honor of the Viceroy of New 

Spain, Mendoza; and in 1579 Sir Francis Drake went even 

farther north, in the Golden Hind, and called the country 

New Albion. In 1602 Vizcaino discovered the harbors of 

San Diego and Monterey, "a narrow strip of sea-board 

with green and grizzly mountains for a background, all 

opening toward the sun-waves." Lower California was 

occupied by Jesuit stations from 1697 to 1767, when King 

Charles III. replaced them with Franciscans. When these 

also were supplanted by the Dominicans, they withdrew to 

Upper California, and erected more than a score of paternal 

missions among the Indians. The founder of Catholic Cali- 
fornia was Father Junipero Serra, who established the mis- 
sion of San Diego, in 1 769. The heroic priests gathered in 

and Christianized the naked savages, teaching them to plant 

vineyards and orchards, build houses and churches, weave 

cloth and work in metals. In 1784 Junipero died, after 

fifty-four years of priesthood, and was buried in the Mis- 
sion Church of San Carlos, in the Carmelo Valley. 

In 1770 Junipero founded the mission of San Carlos, 

afterwards in the sea-viewing flowery Carmelo Valley, near 

Monterey ; and San Carlos Borromeo, close to the beach at 

Monterey. San Antonio de Padua, with estates 150 miles 

around, in the Sierra Santa-Lucia, was founded in 1771, a 

few weeks before San Gabriel Arcdngel arose, among the 

orange-groves and vineyards near Los Angeles, to become 

the richest of the missions. San Luis Obispo de Tolosa was established in 1772, by Fra 

Junipero, and grew very wealthy from its vast fields along the ocean. In the summer of 

1776, when the Americans on the other side of the continent were at bayonet-push with 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at San Diego 

Settled in 1769 

Founded by . , . . Spaniards. 
Admitted to the U. S., . . 1850 

Population in 1850, . . . 92,597 

In i860, 379,994 

In 1870, 5,60,247 

In 1880, 864,694 

White 767,181 

Colored, 97, ?I3 

American-born, .... 571,820 

Foreign-born, 292,874 

Males, 518,176 

Females, 346,518 

In 1890 (census), . . . 1,208,130 

Population to the square mile, 5.5 

Voting Population, . . . 

Vote for Harrison (1888), 124,816 

Vote for Cleveland (1888), 117,729 

Net State Debt 

.-Vs'-essed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . $1,071,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 158,360 
U. S. Rcpresentnti' es fi893), 7 

IMilitia (IJisciplined), . . . 4,304 

Counties, 53 

Post-offices 1,403 

Railroads (miles), .... 4,^56 
Manufactures (yearly), $116,227,973 

Operatives, 43i799 

Yearly Wages, . . ,1^21,070, 585 
Farm Land (acres, in 1880) 16,593,742 
Farm-Land Values, $262,051,282 
Colleges and Profes'nal Schools, 13 
School-Population, . . , 275,302 
School- Attendance 
Public Libraries, 

Volumes, 553,ooo 

Newspapers, 568 

Latitude, .... 32''28' to 42° N. 
Longitude, , ii4''3o' to I24°45' W. 

Temperature 26° to 112° 

Mean Temperature (San 
Francisco), 55" 

TEN CHIKF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS (Census of 1890.) 

San P'tancisco, 298,997 

Los Angeles, 50,395 

Oakland, 48,682 

Sacramento, 26,386 

San lose, . . .... i8,o6d 

San Diego, 16,159 

Stockton, I-1i424 

Alameda, i'i'65 

Fresno 10,818 

Vallejo, 6,343 



143.733 



7° 




KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



England's armies, the Mission de los Dolores de Nuestro 

Padre San Francisco de Asis came into existence, on the 

site of the present metropolis of the Pacific. Junipero 

also occupied the lovely valley south of the Bay, 

with the mission of Santa Clara de Assis, "virgin, 

1 







MONTEREY 



OLD MISSION 



abbess and matriarch," which in time had a 
magnificent church, with rich silver, and 170,- 
000 head of live-stock. San Juan Capistrano 
owned 45 miles of sea-front, and the groves 
and gram-fields extending back to the mountains. San 
Buena \ entura, established in 1782, held 1,500 square 
miles of rich land on the Santa-Barbara Channel. Twenty-seven miles northward, the friars 
in 1786 founded the mission of Santa Barbara, famous for its sweet Spanish bells and rich 
gardens. La Purisima began in 1787, in the Coast Range, and was renowned for its swift 
and beautiful horses. Nuestra Senora de la Soledad (1791) occupied the great plain Llano 
del Rey, 45 miles southeast of Monterey, and had an aqueduct five leagues long. Santa 
Cruz (1791) stood on the sea-ward rim of the valley in which the present city nestles. Its 
venerable church is now a stable. San Juan Bautista (1794), 30 miles northeast of Mon- 
terey, was secularized 40 years later, having acquired great wealth. San Fernando Rey 
(1797) produced fine brandy, on the plain north of San Gabriel. San Miguel, on the 
Salinas, dates from the samQ year. San Jose (1797), 15 miles north of the present city, 
was famous for its grain, which the Russians on the northern coast bought. It had a 
church, watching over 3,000 Indians. The great quad- ■. _ 

rangle of San Luis Rey de Francia was built by Father 
Peyri in 1798. Santa Ines (1804), 40 miles north of 

Santa Barbara, was renowned for vast herds, and its f^'^^^iJIIIIIIffliBHraS'fiigijips^,^ \ . \f 
property had a value of .fSoo.ooo. San Rafael (1817) ' ij^^^'S'^laSt'^^^^^^ 

and San Francisco de Solano (1823) were the latest t-«JB. — :-" " flT :^'" 

stations founded, and the only ones north of the Bay. 
There were Spanish military posts at San Diego, Mon- 
terey, San Francisco and Santa Barbara, each with 70 soldiers and a few cannon, for the 
defence of the missions and pueblos against heathen Indians. For over half a century the 
calm life of these patriarchal monks and their obedient catechumens passed on almost with- 
out a ripple. By 1803 the 18 missions had 15,562 Indian converts; and in 1831, the 21 
missions had 18,683 converts, there being about 80,000 other Indians in California. After 
Mexico became independent of Spain, in 1822, her statesmen by degrees secularized the 
Californias, and in 1840 the missions were broken up. The ruins of their massive churches 
and cloisters, in simple and harmonious architecture, will remain for centuries as memo- 
rials of the friars who designed them, and the Indians who erected their noble pillars and 
arches. When their clergy had been driven away, the Mission Indians were stripped of 
their lands by incoming settlers, and gradually fell a prey to the vices of civilization. Cali- 
fornia now has 10,000 taxable Indians, and 5,000 more on reservations. 

At first a department of Spain, California in 1776 
became one of the "Internal Provinces," and later a 
part of the Western Province, whose capital was at 
Chihuahua or Arispe. Afterwards it received an ad- 
ministration of its own, with Monterey as the capital ; 
and here Gov. Pablo Vicente de Sola and the mili- 
tary and ecclesiastical heads assembled in 1822, and 
resolved that California should no longer be a Spanish 
province, but should cast her lot with Mexico. Two 
SANTA BARBAHA MiswoN. Y^^ars latcr, she followed Mexico in the change to a 




MONTEREY : OLD CUSTOM HOUSE. 




THE ST A TE OF CALIFORNIA. 



71 




MEXICAN BOUNDARY 
MONUMENT. 



and Kit Carson 



republican government, and became a Mexican Territory, ruled by a Political 
Ciiief or Territorial Deputation. The only trade between California and the 
outside world was monopolized for many years by Boston, whose ships made 
two-years' voyages hither, laden with notions, groceries a^d cotton- 
goods, and returning with furs, hides and tallow. It was their cus- 
tom to coast along from port to port, as shown in Dana's Two Years 
Before the Mast. The New-England whaling-ships also frequented these 
ports, and many of their sailors settled on ranches, with native wives. 

About the year 1845 there were a few adventurous Anglo-Saxons on 
the coast, and west of the Sierra Nevada perhaps 300 American trap- 
pers and pioneers. It was believed that England and France coveted 
the Pacific slope, but the American Government (in constant communi- 
cation with Consul Larkin) believed that the Californians would peace- 
fully join the United States. In 1846 young Capt. Fremont, U. S. A. 
reached California overland, on a scientific expedition, with sixty-two men, and were driven 
into Oregon by Gen. Castro. A few Americans north of San-Francisco Bay, ignorant of 
Larkin's negotiations, and stirred up by false rumors that they were to be attacked by the 
Californians, rebelled against the ^Iexican Government, and hoisted the famous Bear Flag 
(now preserved by the Pioneer Society), showing a bear on a white 
ground, with the words California Republic. Fremont, who always 
claimed that he was obeying instructions received from the United-States 
Government, headed a battalion of riflemen at Sutter's Fort ; advanced to 
Sonoma, which had already been captured by the American insurgents, with 
its sixteen cannon ; spiked the ten guns of the San-Francisco presidio ; and 
started with 160 mounted rifles in pursuit of Gen. Castro. The plans of Lar- 
kin and Gen. Vallejo, looking to a peaceful cession, now ended. July 7th, 
1846, the American frigate Savannah captured Monterey, and Com. Sloat 
proclaimed California to be a part of the United States ; and July 8th, the 
Portsmouth raised the Stars and Stripes at San Francisco. The Congress cap- 
tured Santa Barbara ; and Stockton drove Castro from Los Angeles into 
Sonora. But the South soon rose, under Gen. Flores ; recaptured its towns ; 
and defeated Kearney, then nearing San Diego after marching across the 
continent from St. Louis. Several sharp battles were fought before this 
rising was quelled. Meantime, the Mormon Battalion, Stevenson's New- 
York volunteers, and other commands had entered California, and made it secure. 

After the cession of this region to the United States, by the treaty of 1848, bitter debates 
ensued in Congress, as to the introduction of slavery, amid whiclj the people assembled (Sep- 
tember, 1849) and framed a constitution excluding slavery, and under this document Cali- 
fornia was admitted as a State, in 1850. It had already won the name of El Dorado. 
January 24, 1848, a piece of native gold was found by Marshall at Coloma. California's 
dreamy pastoral life was over ; and by the close of the year miners assailed the foot-hills, 
from the Tuolumne to the Feather River. During 1849, 100,000 men from the East crossed 
the plains or the isthmus of Panama, or rounded Cape Horn, ^ to seek 

the land of gold. Between 1850 and 1853, $65,000,000 A^ A of gold 

was mined each year; and from 60,000 to 100,000 men re- i^S ^ /-^k mained 
at work, at first along the rivers, whose gravelly beds 
and bars abounded in the precious yellow metal, 
and after 185 1 in the hydraulic mining of the high 
gravels. The adventurers and free outlaws of the 
whole world flocked to the new Eldorado, and wild 
speculation, gambling, robbery, murder and other 
evil things were practiced by experts, and hardly 




COLOMA : 
MARSHALL STATUE 




SANTA CRUZ : MISSION CHURCH. 



72 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SAN FRANCISCO : MISSION DOLORES. 



hindered by law. The lynch law of the mines culmi- 
nated in the famous Vigilance Committee. May 14, 
1856, an ex-convict and politician, James P. Casey, 
shot down in a San-Francisco street James King of 
William, and five days later*4 companies of the Vigi- 
lance Committee took the murderer from prison, and 
tried and hung him, together with Cora, another male- 
factor. Gov. Johnson proclaimed San Francisco to be 
in insurrection. After inflicting condign punishment on 
several bold criminals, and banishing and frightening 
others to foreign lands, the Vigilance Committee disbanded, August 18, 1856, making a sol- 
emn final parade of 5,137 armed and disciplined troops, with 3 batteries, 290 dragoons, 
and 33 companies of infantry. The overland mail began to run in 1858, and crossed from 
Placerville to Atchison in 19 days. The pony mail commenced its trips in i860. 

When the late civil war broke out California had a Democratic governor, legislature, 
and Congressional delegation, and Albert Sidney Johnston commanded the Military Depart- 
ment of the Pacific. Her senators had said that if civil war came, California would side 
with the South, or set up for herself. But the loyalty of the people to the United States, 
then so far away and so shattered, was quickly announced in vast and enthusiastic assem- 
blies, addressed by patriotic orators. Loyal leagues rose all over the State and the few 

Southern sympathizers departed, or were consigned to 
the fortress of Alcatraz. The United States declined 
California's aid, mainly on account of her remoteness, 
but she raised seven regiments in 1861, sending part 
of them East by steamship, and using others to gar- 
rison the forts along the Pacific. At one time, the 
State forwarded $700,000 in gold to the Sanitary 
Commission. Chinamen have poured into California 
ever since 1850, and between 1852 and 1888 335,000 
Asiatics arrived. The prohibition placed by the 
United- States Government upon this immigration by 
sea, drove it through British Columbia and Mexico, 
and greatly reduced its volume. There are now 25,000 Chinamen in San Francisco alone, 
with six joss-houses, two theatres, and other strange Oriental features. The progress of 
California since the war has been marvellous, and challenges the attention of the nation. Yet 
it has not been without reverses. The mining-stocks listed in 1875 ^^ $282,000,000 dropped 
within six years to $17,000,000. Consolidated Virginia fell from $75,000,000 to $1,000,000 
and "California" from $84,000,000 to $351,000. 

In 1886 the "land boom" began in Southern California, where hundreds of towns were 
laid out and built, sometimes on desolate mesas or along the verge of the desert. While the 
tide ran full, millions of Eastern capital and thousands of immigrants came to the Pacific 

shores, and then the excessive inflation broke. There ^^. — 

are now sixty towns in Los- Angeles County alone, 
with 79,350 town-lots, and an aggregate of 2,351 
inhabitants. But during this speculative period, 
great improvements were made, and there can be 
little doubt that a healthier condition of the real- 
estate market will repopulate the deserted villages 
and re-fill the closed hotels. Recently there has 
been some talk among politicians and journalists of 
ejecting a new State called Southern California. 
But El Dorado has a State pride rivalling those of „ono plain. 




A CALIFORNIAN RCA 




THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



73 




MOUNT WHITNEY. 



Massachusetts and Virginia, and its people will 
repulse any effort at dismembering the Common- 
wealth, which is the largest in the Republic, except 
Texas. 

The Name of this great State was the inven- 
tion of a Spanish novelist, who in Las Serguas de 
F.splandian (published in 1 510) made mention of 
"the great island of California, where an abund- 
ance of gold and precious stones is found." Fan- 
ciful philologists have derived the meaning of the 
word from the Spanish calida fornax, or caliente 
fornaza, meaning "a hot furnace," and very applicable to Lower California. The pet 
names, The Land of Gold, The Golden State and Eldorado are of obvious origin. 

The State Seal represents Minerva, who sprung full-grown from the brain of Jupiter, 
as California entered the Union as a State, without Territorial probation. She is seated on a 
rock, with helmet and corselet, shield and spear. At her feet crouches a grizzly bear ; and 
beyond a miner bends to work, with pick, rocker, and bowl. The Sacramento River 
widens out, bearing ships, typifying commercial greatness ; and in the background the sun 
appears, and the great Sierra Nevada. The motto 
is Eureka, a Greek word meaning " I have found it." 
The Governors included ten Spanish Dons, 
from 1767 to 1822, and twelve Mexicans, from 1822 
to 1846. Then followed the era of United- States 
military governors, Sloat, Stockton, Fremont, Kear- 
ney, Mason, and Riley. The governors of the State 
have been : Peter II. Burnett, 1849-51 ; John 
McDougall, 1S51-2; John Bigler, 1852-6; J. Neely 
Johnson, 1856-8; John B. Weller, 1858-60; Milton 
S. Latham, i860; John G. Downey, 1860-2; Le- 
land Stanford, 1862-3; Frederick F. Low, 1863-7; 
Henry H. Haight, 1867-71 ; Newton Booth, 1871-5 ; Romualdo Pacheco, 1875; William 
Irwin, 1875-80 ; Geo. C. Perkins, 1 880-3 ; George Stoneman, 1S83-7 ; Washington Bart- 
lett, 1887; R. W. Waterman, 1887-91 ; and H. H. Markham, 1891-5. 

Descriptive. — California is 770 miles long, and from 150 to 330 miles wide, with more 
than double the area of New England. The coast-line equals the distance from Cape Cod 
to Charleston, S. C. The State fronts along the Pacific coast 
for over 1,000 miles. North of 40° is a wild and mountainous 
land, covered with stupendous forests. South of 35° much of 
the State is an unmitigated desert of arid mountains and 
sunken plains. Central California, between 35'' and 40°, has 
one third of the State's area. Prof Whitney divides this 
region into four equal sections, by lines 55 miles apart. The 
Pacific is the first line, between which and the second lie 
the Coast Ranges. The Great Valley is the strip next to the 
eastward, ending at a line drawn from Visalia to Red Bluff. 
East of this the Sierra extends to the line drawn from Shasta 
to Mount Whitney ; and then the eastern slope falls away to 
the Great Basin. The State is traversed by the Sierra Nevada 
and the Coast Range, which interlock on the north and the 
south, between which extremes they swing wide apart, and 
enclose the Great Valley. 
vosEMiTE : CATHEDRAL SPIRES. The Sierra Nevada is the most majestic mountain range in 




MOUNT SHASTA. 




74 



A'/.VG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED ST A TES. 



the United States, covering a length of 600 miles, from Mount San Jacinto to Mount 
Shasta (or 430 miles from the Tahichipi Pass to Lassen's Peak), and a breadth of from 75 
to 100 miles, with long and gradual slopes on the west, cut by deep canons. The most 
imposing scenery is towards the south, where Mount Whitney and its alpine brethren lift 
their majestic granite spires. The delightful summer climate of California favors pleasure- 
travel in the Sierra, where the days are mild and rainless, and the air soft and clear. 
Thousands of tourists haunt the high valleys and lakes, encamping at great altitudes with- 
out discomfort, and unvexed by the wild storms and long rains which visit the Swiss Alps. 
Prof. Whitney remarks that the Alps would resemble the Sierra if most of their glaciers 
were melted away. The long grassy slopes leading up to the Swiss glaciers are replaced in 
California by vast forests, sweeping up to the snow-line. At the headwaters of King's 
River, the Sierra Nevada forks into two ridges, running southward, and separated by the 
tremendous Kern-River Cafion. The main peaks of the eastern range are Mounts Kear- 
sarge, Tyndall, Williamson, and Whitney. Those of the western range are Mounts King, 
Gardner, and Brewer, and Kaweeah Peak. Mount Whitney is the highest peak in the 
United States, outside of Alaska, and was discovered by Brewer, Hoffman, and Clarence 
King, in 1864, and named for the State Geologist of California (now Prof. J. D. Whitney, 
of Harvard University). The first ascent took place in 1873. The height is 14,522 feet 
(Langley's measurement). 14,887 feet (Clarence King), or 14,898^ (Goodyear). 

The main peaks in the central Sierra Nevada pass 13,000 feet in height, and include 
the lonely Mounts Ritter and Maclure ; Mount Lyell's sharp and inaccessible pinnacle of 
granite, shooting up from a white waste of snow ; Mount Starr King, a steep granite cone ; 
Mount Conness, approached by a perilous knife-blade ridge ; and Mount Hoffman, front- 
ing the south with amazing granite cliffs. Mount Dana's peak of red and green slate is 
often visited from Mono Pass, and thence the traveller may look out over hundreds of 
leagues of granite domes and snowy peaks and volcanic cones, with Mono Lake in the deep 
valley below. 

The Yosemite Valley is 3,950 feet high, on the Sierra, hemmed in by nearly vertical 
cliffs; and covers 36,011 acres, which Congress granted to California, in 1864, to be held 
as a State park. The Yosemite Fall descends 2,600 feet in three sections, one of which is 
of 1,500 feet, vertical. There are also wonderful cascades on the Merced River, which 
flows through the valley ; and the exquisite Bridal-Veil Falls stripe the cliffs near Cathe- 
dral Rock with a lace-like white band 900 feet high, swaying, veil-like, in the wind. No 
words can portray the stupendous rock, El Capitan, a block of bare granite 3,300 feet 
high, and visible for 50 miles out on the plains ; or the fantastic and colossal rock-carvings 
of the Spires, and the Royal Arches, and Sentinel Rock; or the astonishing Plalf Dome, 
with its vertical cliffs 1,500 feet high. This gigantic trough, hollowed a mile deep in the 
mountains, recessed, buried in woods, jewelled with silvery falls, and overlooked by enor- 
mous domes of rock, is one of the grandest of all Nature's temples, with features of sub- 
limity and beauty unequalled by any other mountain-valley in the world. Yosemite is an 
Indian word, meaning Grizzly Bear. The neighboring Hetch-Hetchy Valley has many 
resemblances to the Yosemite, and heads into the great gorge of the Tuolumne River, which 
falls 4,650 feet within a score of miles, between cliffs a thousand feet high. The Carson 
and Johnson Passes, near Lake Tahoe, were the ancient freight-routes to Nevada. From 
this point for 160 miles south there are but five passes with trails across, two of them being 
near the head of the San Joaquin, and traversed only by Indians. The Kearsarge Pass, the 
highest in the State, crosses the great range three leagues north of Mount Tyndall, 12,000 
feet above the sea, amid wonderful rock scenery. The Mono Pass, 30 miles east of the 
Yosemite Valley, and 10,765 feet high, is traversed by many tourists on the way to the 
ashy volcanic region of Mono Lake, amid lofty snowy peaks, glacier lakes, and falling 
streams. Bloody Canon leads eastward from the summit of the pass to the Mono plain. 
The counties of Mono and Inyo lie between the granite spires of the Sierra Nevada and 



THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 




YOSEMITE VALLEY GROUP, 



>6 



A'/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




DONNER LAKE. 



the craggy Inyo Range, each of them rising 10,000 
feet above the wonderfully picturesque valley, 
down which Owen's River flows, to sink in the 
dead sea of Owen's Lake. Forty miles eastward, 
across several parallel chains of mountains, and 
between the Panamint and Amargosa Ranges, the 
Amargosa River sinks into Death Valley (where a 
party of immigrants once starved to death), 150 
feet below the sea, an alkaline desert in summer, 
and a mud-flat in winter. The Amargosa and 
Funeral Mountains lie cast of Death Valley. The Inyo Range is lonelier than the Sierra, 
and forms with the "White Mountains a continuous chain of 100 miles long. 

As the Sierra goes northward it broadens and loses elevation, and where the Central 
Pacific Railroad crosses, it sinks to 7,000 feet. Lassen's Peak, a volcanic cone 10,537 feet 
high, dominates the valleys of the north. Seventy miles northwest rises the magnificent 
snowy cone of Mount Shasta, 14,440 feet high, visible for more than a hundred miles. 
Jets of steam and sulphurous gases emerging from Shasta recall former volcanic activity. 
The seven counties, Lassen, Shasta, Trinity, Humboldt, Del Norte, Siskiyou, and Modoc, 
north of the great valley, include a vast and thinly-populated country, rough and moun- 
tainous, with dry and barren volcanic plains and lava-beds in the east, and the Siskiyou, 
Salmon, and Scott Ranges in the west. Humboldt has 700 square miles of redwood for- 
ests, in which a score of sawmills are making slow inroads. 

The Coast Ranges form a vast assemblage of mountains, following the ocean-shore for 
over 400 miles, with almost treeless and waterless eastern slopes, and large streams and 
dense forests on their misty and rocky flanks toward the Pacific. This highland region, 
from 2,000 to 4,500 feet in altitude, and 40 to 70 miles in breadth, stretches from the iron- 
bound sea-coast to the Great Valley; and contains many beautiful arable glens, dotted with 
graceful clumps of oaks, and overlooked by higher expanses of chapparal and the bare 
peaks of the range. The tributary ranges are numbered by scores, especially in the south, 
where rise the Cuyamarca Mountains, whose chief peak looks into Mexico and out to sea ; 
the San-Gabriel Mountains, running from the Cajon Pass to the Los- Angeles River ; and 
the Santa-Ynez and Santa-Monica Ranges. The Santa-Lucia, San-Rafael, and San-Ber- 
nardino Ranges form an almost continuous chain several hundred miles long. The Sierra 
Nevada and the Coast Range are cross-connected by the Tejon Mountains and the Sierra 
Madre, under various names, overlooking the valleys of Los Angeles. Los-Angeles 
County is two thirds the size of Massachusetts, and lies in the latitude of North Caro- 
lina, in a climate-producing at once palms and bananas, apples 
and grapes, with roses blooming in winter, and summers 
cooler than in the Eastern cities. It includes a great series 
of valleys, falling from the Sierra Madre's snow-crested laby- 
rinths of canons and ridges, 40 miles wide, to the blue waters 
of the Pacific. 

One of the chief features of the view from the San-Fran- 
cisco region is the Contra-Costa hills, running from the Strait 
of Carquinez to Mount Hamilton, where it meets the Mount- ' 
Diablo Range. Mount Diablo's double-pointed crest, 3,856 
feet high, is a famous landmark, and overlooks the Great Val- 
ley, the open sea, and the line of the Sierra Nevada for 300 
miles. Mount Tamalpais, north of the Golden Gate, may be 
ascended by a carriage-road from the San-Rafael Valley, and 
commands a wonderful view. Mount St. Helena, a flat-top- 
ped extinct volcano, towers above the head of Napa Valley. vosemite falls. 




THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



77 




DEVIL'S CANON, 



The Ckcat Valley has a level ground of 450 miles 
long and 40 miles wide, covering 18,000 square miles. 
This huge elliptical basin is drained by the Sacra- 
mento and San-Joafjuin Rivers, the former flowing 
southward 320 miles from beyond Mount Shasta, 
and the San-Joaquin pouring northward 260 miles 
from Kern Lake. The Sacramento receives the 
Feather, American, Yulja and other rivers from the 
Sierra Nevada ; and is navigable for steamboats for 
90 miles, to Sacramento, and for smaller steamers 
to Red Bluff, 160 miles farther. The San-Joaquin 
rises in the high Sierra, and enters the Great Valley at Millerton. It is navigable for 
steamboats as far as Stockton, and smaller boats can ascend to Tulare Lake. The united 
Sacramento and San-Joacpiin enter the shallow Suisun Bay, and flow between its low tule- 
covered islands into San-Pablo Bay, an expansion of San-Francisco Bay. 

Lake Tahoe lies on the Sierra, 6, 247 feet above the sea, abounding in fine trout, and 
with deep waters of exceptional purity and coldness, Mark Twain calls it "A sea in 
the clouds, whose royal seclusion is guarded by a cordon of sentinel peaks that lift their 
frosty fronts 9,000 feet above the level world." Tahoe is 22 by ten miles in area. Near 
by, the beautiful expanse of Donner Lake recalls a terrible tragedy of 1^46-7. The Truckee 
River runs from Tahoe to Pyramid Lake, which has no outlet. Mono Lake, with its cen- 
tral cluster of volcanic islands, and its odd-looking masses of tufa along the shores, covers 
an area of 14 by nine miles, with the Sierra Nevada towering over its crater-pitted plain 
on one side, and the frowning Inyo Range on the other. The intensely bitter and salty 
waters of this Californian Dead Sea are almost devoid of life. 

Tulare Lake receives the waters of King's River and the Sierra between its low and reedy 
banks, pouring down into the San-Joaquin in wet weather, and in dry times evaporating. 
Above are Lake Buena-Vista and Kern Lake. All these lakes have grown much smaller 
and Salter within ten years, as a result of irrigating canals taking away the water from the 
inflowing rivers. Tulare has lost nearly three fourths of its area, and settlers' claims fol- 
low the receding waters. One may wade out for a mile, without getting more than knee- 
deep, to the hundreds of small islands and liunchcs of tule, the homes of millions of white 
birds of the gull species. Into Owen's Lake, Owen's River sinks and disappears. It has 
been falling for many years, and growing more bitter and poisonous. It covers about 1 20 
square miles. 

Goose Lake covers 200 square miles, and contains many fish. Near the immense 
areas of sage-brush on the Madeline Plains, the bright waters of Honey Lake glimmer 
over nearly a hundred square miles, in the wet season, and sink into a mud-hole later. A 
few leagues distant is the deep and crystalline Eagle Lake, shadowed by sombre wooded 
mountains. About 75 miles north of San Francisco, Clear Lake flashes among the high 
hills, for a length of 25 miles, with an average width of six miles, and a deep and crystal 
tide, the home of myriads of fish. Uncle-Sam 
Mountain pushes its sandstone cliffs far out into 
the lake, forming the Narrows. Along the 
shores, vineyards blossom and pretty villas gleam 
among the trees ; and a steamboat plies up and 
down from many-mounded Lakeport to the 
bright village of Lower Lake. 

The Californian coast finds its chief haven 
in the noVjle Bay of San Francisco, 50 by 
nine miles in area, sheltered by two peninsulas 
from seven to 15 miles across, between whose ,.e...; . v ure fhom pasadeha. 




A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




ends opens the strait of the Golden 
Gate, 400 fttt deep, and four miles 
long. On the northern coast are 
Tomales Bay and Bodega Bay. 
Humboldt Bay, in the remoter 
north, has 40 miles of land-locked 
tidal area, entered by a narrow channel between roaring breakers. South of San Fran- 
cisco open the harbors of Monterey, San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, and San Diego, 
the latter of which is twelve miles long, and completely landlocked. Six light-houses 
beacon San-Francisco Bay, and seven shine out along the northern coast. The light-house 
on St. -George's Reef, Northwest Seal Rock, is one of the most remarkable in the world, 
rising, as it does, from a wave-swept rock far out in the sea. It cost above $Scx),ooo. 
The coast south of San Francisco has eleven light-houses, of which that on Point Loma, 
near San Diego, is the highest in the Republic. Eight leagues seaward of San Francisco 
rise' the rocky islets of the Farallones, one of which towers 340 feet above the waves, and 
upholds a first-class light-house, with a powerful Fresnel light. 

Midway on the coast of California, about 125 miles south of San Francisco, is one of the mar- 
vels of the continent. It is the Hotel Del Monte, at Monterey, opened in 1880, and now hardly 
equalled by any of the sea-shore resorts of the world, while in many respects it far surpasses 
all others. The building exemplifies the Gothic style of architecture, and is of enormous size, 
and equipped with every modern comfort and luxury. The great surrounding park shows the 
very perfection of landscape gardening, with avenues winding between lines of venerable 
live-oaks and pines, beds of rich flowers and tall cacti, down to the sandy shores of Mon- 
terey Bay, where there is a very complete bathing establishment, divided into four great 
salt-water tanks, heated by steam to different temperatures. The beauty of the coast and 
mountain-scenery around Monterey, the abiding interest of the old capital of California 
under Spanish domination, and the serene delight of the climate, have made this locality a 
favorite pleasure-resort for all seasons (for in this equable climate there are but a few 
degrees of difference between July and January). 
The charges for accommodation at this famous re- 
sort are very moderate, and the extra cost of a trip 
to California is more than counterbalanced by the 
difference in rates at the various well-known resorts 
of the United States and Europe and this incom- 
parable hotel. This superb establishment, with its 
leagues of neighboring beaches, its acres of roses and 
violets and heliotropes, the mingled perfumes of pine- 
trees and salt waves, and the lovely and healing cli- 
mate, has been visited and enjoyed by the foremost ^ r- „ ^ 

' J J J LAIYlULUb ; Tut MUIML (JF RAfflOl'4 




THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



79 




SANTA BARBARA. 



American and European travellers, all of whom 
have been enthusiastic in its praise. The hotel 
property consists of 7,000 acres of land, compris- 
ing the Monterey peninsula, through which have 
been constructed finely macadamized roadways, 
including the celebrated Eighteen-Mile Drive, 
leading from the Del Monte around the coast- 
line, by the cypress groves and Carmel Bay, and 
back to the house. The hotel company also con- 
trols tiie great summer-resort of Pacific Grove, 
between Monterey and Point Pinos, with its El Carmelo hotel and surrounding cottages 
and villas, where upwards of 5,000 people pass their happy summers. 

The beautiful Valley of Santa Clara is one of the most attractive and interesting regions 
of California, very accessible to San Francisco and the sea, and yet with all the charms of 
the fairest rural regions of the Golden State. The climate is one of the best in the world, 
almost semi-tropical in its softness, and tempered by bracing and salubrious trade-winds 
from the Pacific. Every one who visits the Lick Observatory goes by way of San Jose, 
and in order to accommodate these visitors, and also many people entering the Santa-Clara 
region in search of health and beauty, the great Hotel Vendome has been erected, 
in the centre of a beautiful park of twelve acres, at San Jose, planted with the choicest 
shrubbery and trees, a quarter of a century ago, by one of the pioneers of California. Ris- 
ing from the midst of this magnificent estate, 
stands the hotel, provided with every modern im- 
provement, a favorite both as a summer and as a 
winter resort, and the permanent home of wealthy 
families. Every convenience and facility is afforded 
here for people on their way to and from the famous 
Lick Observatory and the many other points of in- 
terest in this wonderful fruit-growing valley. 

Santa Cruz, with its fine beach and picturesque 
mountains, is rich in singular rock-formations ; and 
near it rises a historic group of huge redwood 
trees. Santa jSIonica, on its beautiful bay, upon which the Sierra Santa Monica looks down, 
is a well-known pleasure-resort ; and farther down the coast Long Beach, Del Mar, Ocean- 
side, San Juan-by-the Sea, and other popular beaches afford recreation-ground for thou- 
sands, with surf-bathing all winter. 

Off the southern coast, from 20 to 60 miles in the ocean, lie eight islands, rising from 
the blue sea to mountainous heights, and bearing melodious old Spanish names. One of 
them has a quaint little village and harbor ; three or four are inhabited by myriads of sheep, 
with solitary shepherds ; and others know only the sounds of multitudinous sea-birds and 
the seals and sea-otter that clamber over their rocky shores. \Vhen dark fogs brood over 
the niainlanil, these islands bask under a deep azure sky, and listen to the ceaseless roar- 
ing of the Pacific. Santa Catalina, a score of miles 
long, attains a height of 3,000 feet and may be seen 
from Los Angeles, 40 miles away. Its beautiful 
marine scenery and bracing air have attracted many 
summer visitors, in the hotel, and in camps along the 
shore. Santa Cruz, ascending 1,700 feet into the clear 
sea-air, is the home of myriads of sheep. Santa 
Rosa has 42 miles of coast-line, with bold and noljle 
highlands, and a great product of wool. 
SAN JOSE : THE ALAMEDA. The watcrs of California abouixl in valualile fish. 




SAN JOSE: HOTEL VENUOMt. 




8o 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




mi 



and the State Board of Fish Commissioners maintains hatcheries, 
dams, fish-ways and patrol boats. The streams have been stocked 
with black bass, trout and shad, and sturgeon and salmon abound 

— . in the rivers. There are plenty of rockfish and tom- 

cod, turbot and sole, and the delicate-flavored barra- 
couta. The bay-shores yield small oysters and clams, 
muscles and shrimp, lobsters and crabs. The deep- 
sea fisheries employ 3,000 men, in 50 vessels and 900 
boats, with a product of $1,000,000 a year, in cod, 
halibut, whale oil and bone. The fishing-banks swarm 
with food-fish ; and the fleet also cruises northward to 
Bering Sea. The spoils of the deep include also seals 
and sea-otter. There are salmon canneries on the Sac- 
ramento, and also on Eel and Smith Rivers. 

The valleys of the Coast Range, Napa, Sonoma, Petaluma, and Russian-River, on the 
north, and many others on the south, of San Francisco, are full of rich pastoral beauty. 
Nowhere is one out of sight of high foot-hills or mountain-ranges, which nobly diversify 
the scenery. In the farther south, hundreds of agricultural colonies have settled in the 
valleys within a few leagues of the sea, and begun irrigation-works, and the cultivation of 
fruits. The oldest of the colonies is Anaheim, founded by Germans in 1857, and now rich 
in 2, 500, 000 grape-vines and 90,000 sheep. Riverside, Ontario, Pomona, Glendale, Ocean- 
side, Fallbrook, El Cajon, Colton jind other towns have risen rapidly, of late, in this 
favored corner of the world. 

In the southeast the barren sands and scanty vegetation of the Mohave and Colorado 



MONTEREY : CYPRESS POINT. 



localities 350 feet below 
the Nubian desert in its 




NATURAL BRIDGE. 

ARCH ROCK. 

MONUMENT ROCK. 



Deserts cover thousands of square miles, in some 
the level of the sea. This unvisited land resembles 
loneliness and its weird colors and shapes ; and the 
Colorado is its Nile. Black and purple mountains '^J 
loom high above leagues of white sand and alkaline 
flats; and the lowest levels are diversified by mud 
volcanoes, where continuous streams of hot water 
and gas escape from the soft mud. 

The scenic wonders of El Dorado include also 
the natural bridges on Hay Fork of Trinity, and on 

Coyote Creek, in Tuolumne County ; Bower Cave, in Mariposa ; the Alabas- 
ter Cave, in Placer; the petrified forest of great trees, discovered in 1870, north of San 
Francisco ; and the lava beds and mountains of marble. 

The Climate. — The State Board of Health finds in California two climates, that of 
the sea, with low and even temperature and cold damp winds ; and that of the land, hot 
and dry. The valleys around the Bay of San Francisco enjoy a delightful blending of the 
land and sea air. The rapid changes in San Francisco almost justify the humorous remark 
that the proper costume to wear there is a linen duster with a fur collar. The damp day- 
winds rush from the Pacific through the gaps in the Coast Range, to replace the dry and 
heated inland atmosphere ; and vast currents of cold and bracing air sweep through the 
Golden Gate, to spread out in a fan-shape up the Sacramento and San-Joaquin Valleys. Thus 
comes some mitigation of the fierce inland heats, which at times reach 110°, but are never 

attended by sun-strokes. At night the breeze 

dies, the cool mountain-air descends, and San 

H Francisco sleeps in a light mist from the ocean. 

_i The climate is divided into the dry and the 

""^^ rainy seasons, and these differ, from the love- 
ly spring-like winters of the northern counties 




SAN FRANCISCO : ALCATRAZ ISLAND. 



THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



8r 




COLORADO RIVER 



NEEDLES BRIDGE. 



to the almost rainless years of the Colo- 
rado Valley, and also from season to 
season, so that the perilous inundations 
of one year may be followed by pro. 
longed droughts. The Sierra retains its 
snows the year through, and the remote 
mining towns endure an Alpine climate. The region of Klamath Lake sometimes has 
several weeks of sleighing ; but the coast and the valleys see little snow. The rainy sea- 
son is spring-like, and has many calm and sunny days, being the most agreeable part of 
the year. June, July, August, and September are singularly dry months. In an average 
Californian year there are 220 days perfectly clear, 85 cloudy, and 60 rainy. During the 
long rainless and dewless summer, everything turns brown and sear, the ground wrinkles 
and cracks, and the air grows dusty. The rich green of Eastern landscapes is seen here 
only in winter and early spring. The heat of the summers is largely tempered by the clear- 
ness and dryness of the air, which favor radiation. The climate is much milder and more 
uniform than that of the other States in the same latitude, with summers whose mean tem- 
perature (60^) is within four degrees of the mean of the year. The warm dry winter air 
and bracing west winds of the southern counties are favorable for alleviating diseases of the 

throat and lungs. Although much farther south, this 
region does not suffer from the great heat of the Sacra- 
mento Valley, owing to its strong sea-winds and cool- 
ing fogs. The rainfall mainly comes during the nights 
nf January, February, and March. The mean average 
\\inter temperature of Santa Barbara is 55°; of Men- 
tone, 48.6°; of San Remo, 49.9°. Their tempera- 
tures in spring are, respectively, 58.3°, 57-4°> ^^^ 
57.3°; in summer, 65. 1°, 73.3°, and 72.4°; in autumn, 
61.9", 62.3'^, and 61.9°. The winters at Santa Bar- 
bara are warmer, and the summers cooler, than those 
of the famous Mediterranean health-resorts. The ac- 
curate and careful meteorological reports show but one night on record when a frost touched 
Santa Barbara (28. 5°). In the ten years, 1878-87, the thermometer at Los Angeles rose 
above 100° but seven times, and fell below the freezing point six times. The rainless south- 
east is extremely hot, the mean of Fort Yuma being 76°, and the thermometer ranging 
between 90° and 100°, night and day, for weeks at a time. The gloomy Colorado Desert 
is*swept by frequent sand-storms. The Great Valley is hotter in summer than the coast, 
and also 40° colder in winter, on account of the huge snowy wall of the Sierra. Earth- 
quakes have visited California many times. In 1812 the missions of La Purisima and San 
Juan Capistrano were destroyed, with many people, and a huge tidal wave swept inland 
over Santa Barbara. For months of 1872 the Sierra was agitated by earthquakes, which 
threw down great granite peaks, and opened cracks in the ground ; and 30 persons were 
killed and 100 wounded. 

Agriculture. — Many of the farms of California are on a grand 
scale. A rainy autumn is followed by plowing and sowing in No- 
vember, and copious latter rains in March and April ensure noble 
harvests in June and July. The cereal, hay, and root crops of Cal- 
iifornia are valued at $70,000,000 yearly. Vast areas, occupied by 
arid deserts, cannot be farmed, and much even of the Great Valley 
requires irrigation. Millions of dollars have been invested in irri- 
gation, in the south, and the fair green tides of cultivated vegeta- 
tion are already advancing on the Mohave Desert, and flowing over 
the red mesas of San Bernardino. Southern California, the scene 




MOSSBRAE FALLS. 




^ 



calistoga: petrified forest. 



82 



ICING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SAN-DIEGO HARBOR. 



of a phenomenal growth in recent years, is one 
of the gardens of the world, and as fast as water 
can be led to its rich lands, all the valuable 
fruits and cereals of the temperate zone and the 
tropics alike are reaped. 

The California wheat is mainly Chilian and 
Australian, commanding very high prices, and 
largely exported to England. The wheat-crop 
reaches 33, 000,000 bushels, valued at $20,000,000 
a year. San-Francisco flour is sent by shiploads to Central America, China, and Japan, 
1,200,000 barrels being exported yearly. Barley is raised to the amount of 16,000,000 
bushels. The other cereals have a much smaller product. The bean crop is very large, 
and 50,000 tons are sent out of California yearly, besides 50,000 tons of other vegetables. 
The prodigious mangel-wurzels and turnips and 200-pound pumpkins are the result of ten 
months of growth in this serene climate. Mammoth sugar-beets are raised easily, ten to 
20 tons on each acre, and yielding a much larger percentage of sugar than the European 
beets. The first beet-sugar factory in the Far West was established at Alvarado, in Santa- 
Clara County, several years ago. Claus Spreckels started one at Watsonville, in the Pajaro 
Valley, two years ago, with a plant that cost !| 500, 000, and can reduce 500 tons of beets to 
sugar daily. Around Stockton grow vast quantities of chicory, always salable to coffee- 
merchants ; and mustard of extraordinary ferocity. Here, also, grows the Persian insect- 
powder plant, whose product is in active demand from Klamath to Fort Yuma. Sweet 
potatoes and peanuts are raised almost everywhere, in the warm, rich soils, especially in 
the interior valleys. In the San-Luis Valley cotton grows. The tobacco of the Pacific 
coast is rank and strong. Hops are produced to the amount of 40,000 bales yearly. 

California is now the foremost State in the Union for the cultivation of fruit, with 
20,000,000 trees, growing rapidly and producing abundantly. Even the deserted mining- 
camps in the foot-hills have been replaced by vineyards and orchards. In no other equal 
area in the world can the fruits of semi-tropical and temperate regions be grown to such 
perfection, side by side, in the same orchard, orange and apple, lemon and cherry, olive and 
plum, fig and pear, the pomegranate, the prune, peach, apricot, nectarine, vine, nuts, 
and cereals. The orange, lemon, and lime thrive along the foot-hills of the Sierras, from 
Red Bluff on the north to National City on the south. The famous Magnolia Avenue 
extends for nine miles, between double rows of pepper trees. Great quantities of the finest 
oranges are sent out from the Sacramento region, and the sheltered valleys of the Coast 
Range, and the red soils of the northern foot-hills. California has shipped 4,000 carloads 
of oranges in a season. These oranges do not compete with those of Florida, since the 
season of sale is from February to July, when the Florida fruit is not in the market. 
Within a decade, California will probably supply the continent with lemons, as trees are 
being planted in great numbers, and already the export reaches 50,000 boxes yearly. The 
Californian limes are of excellent quality. The entire range of deciduous fruits grows to 
perfection, and the crop has reached 300,000,000 pounds. Peaches are shipped ripe, by 
train-loads, and meet with a ready sale. The pro- 
duction yearly of 2,000 tons of choice sun-dried and 
evaporated peaches fails to supply the market, while 
the demand for canned peaches and other fruits 
comes from all over the world. Here the delicious 
apricot and nectarine are produced in abundance and 
perfection, most of them being canned, with 3,000,- 
000 pounds dried. Prune-growing has assumed 
vast proportions, with 1,000,000 trees. Their qual- 
ity became known quickly, and they sell at prices 



W^ 






A 


Ife"'^ 


ii....*^ 


^^ 


m 






"^'^irr'T'-' 


'^sww 




^'/w^^feS^ 


M 


wl^^B 


HiJiiiiiMillJiiMii 



HETCH-HETL 



THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



83 




PALM CANON, 



above the imported varieties. The dried-prune crop has 

increased to a yield of 8,000,000 pounds. Califomian pears 

have no rival as a fresh fruit, or canned or dried. Figs grow 

and produce, but only recently have successful attempts been 

made to cure them. The State has 300,000 fig-trees ; and the 

same persistent experimenting that has produced the best 

raisins and prunes may give California the best dried figs. A full 

car-load of dried figs was shipped from Fresno alone, to New 

York, in 1889. The stately and graceful English walnut trees 

bear when ten years old, and beautify and enrich the country. 

The crop exceeds 1,000,000 pounds. The almond orchards, 

at blossoming time looking like "a rosy- white cloud or a pink 

snow-storm," bear 500,000 pounds yearly. Italian chestnuts, 

filberts, and pistachio nuts are also raised. The yearly crop 

of peanuts yields 200,000 pounds. Among other fruits are 

the quince, pomegranate, Japanese persimmon, guava, banana, and apple. The loquat is 

a yellow Japanese fruit, peculiarly adapted to the climate. Strawberries are in the market 

every month in the year ; and raspberries, blackberries, and currants are grown and canned 

in great quantities. Many date-palms have been raised from the seed, and bear both the 

white dates and the red (or China) dates. 

The cultivation of olives was introduced by the monks, and has latterly received a great 
development, the best varieties having been imported from France and Italy. The trees 
grow from cuttings, a hundred to the acre, in rocky and sandy places, near the coast. The 
olive is receiving more attention than any other tree. Its adaptability to the climate and 
soil is marked, and the results obtained in producing an olive-oil equal to the best imported 
article, are important factors. The Califomian olive-oils have the advantage of being pure, 
as put up by the growers, whereas the imported oils are (as a rule) injuriously adulterated. 
Her rapid advance in this industry will soon place California among the great olive-produc- 
ing countries of the world. At EUwood Cooper's ranche the olives are ground between 
great stone rollers. The expressed oil stands and settles for three months, and is then fil- 
tered through, six layers of cotton batting and one of French paper. When bottled it has 
a delicate straw color, and brings double the price of the best Lucca oil. 

A box of Califomian raisins was a curiosity a few years ago, and the total output in 1880 
was only 75,000 boxes. The capacity now is 2,200,000 boxes of the finest raisins in the 
world. The wide barrens of Fresno County have been successfully devoted to this indus- 
try. The Califomian vineyards yield two tons of raisin-grapes to the acre, which exceeds 
the yield of the Malaga vineyards. In 1890 33,000,000 pounds were shipped. 

Among the prospering -industries of the Pacific Coast, one of the most interesting and 
profitable is that of putting up various articles of food and delicacies in cans and other ves- 
sels, for preservation and shipment. The abundant fruit production of California finds this 
one of its best outlets, and the delicious pears and peaches, plums and other fruits of the 
Golden State are thus sent out all over the world. Among the leaders in this business 
is the firm of Code, Elfelt & Co., whose great factories are equipped with all the modern 

devices for canning food, and employ a consider- 
able force of skilled operatives. This house dates 
from the year 1867, and its growth has been step 
by step with that of the fruit-raising industry of 
California, the main characteristic being the uni- 
form high grade, so that the Code, Elfelt & Co.'s 
Califomian fruits have long ago become the recog- 
nized standard for the best quality and choicest 
selection, and command the highest prices. 




OAN FRANCISCO : COuE, ELFELT i CO. 







84 A'ING\S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Between 1858 and 1862 a wide-spread interest in vine-planting sprang up, and the State 
sent Agoston Haraszthy abroad to study European methods. He brought home 200,000 
vines and cuttings from Europe and Asia Minor, Persia and Egypt. The ,. 

State Viticultural Commission was founded in 1880, since which the capi 
tal invested in tlje vineyards has risen from $14, 500,000 
to $87,000,000. There are 200,000 acres planted with 
young vines, and producing over 300,000 tons of grapes 
yearly. In the four years, 1884-8, upwards of 50,000,- 
000 gallons of wine were made in California, two thirds 
of which went East. The yearly product now is about 
17,000,000 gallons, with 1,000,000 gallons of brandy, san francsco: teleghaph-h.llo.^lkvatorv. 
The grape country is 600 miles long and 100 miles wide. California has three grape-growing 
districts : (l), the Coast (Sonoma, Lake, Alameda, Santa-Clara and Santa-Cruz counties), 
producing fine grades of white and red dry wines, Sauternes, clarets and champagnes ; (2), 
The red Sierra foothills and the Sacramento Valley (Placer, El Dorado, Calaveras, Tuo- 
lumne, Yuba, Yolo, Butte, Sacramento and Tehama), yielding dry wines, table-grapes and 
raisins ; and (3), the southern district (San Joaquin, Merced, Fresno, Tulare, Kern, Ven- 
tura, Santa-Barbara, San-Bernardino, Los-Angeles, Orange and San-Diego counties), rich 
in sugary grapes, making heavy sweet wines, like Port and sherry, Angelica and Muscatel. 
Fresno County produces 700,000 boxes of raisins yearly. The old Mission vineyards sup- 
plied fruits until the handsome and prolific Zinfandel was introduced. But it soon 

became apparent that the Zinfandel was an inferior 
grape, after all, and to cap the climax, the phyllox- 
era came down on the Hungarian importation 
and bore it away. No new vineyards were re- 
planted with the Zinfandel, and the vine is being 
replaced with the choicest and hardiest wine- 
grapes from Europe, including Cabernet Sauvig- 
non. Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Tannat, Merlot and 
St. -Laurent grapes from the Bordeaux districts; 
Mataro, from Palos ; Semillons and Sauvignons, 
from Sauterne ; Pinot and Petite Sirrah, from Bur- 
gundy ; Johannisbergers, Traminers and Franken 
Rieslings, from the Rhine ; Chasselas, from Alsace-Lorraine ; delicious Burgers, from 
Moselle ; the rich Spanish Muscats ; and the favorite Hungarian table-grape, the Flaming 
Tokay. In no other vine region in the world, are all these splendid fruits found side by 
side, and they make of California the wonderland of the vine. California has the largest 
vineyard in the world, in Tehama County, on Stanford's farm. It contains 4,000 acres. 
The largest wine-cellar in the world is at St. Helena, the capacity being 2,500,000 gallons. 
The wonderful Orleans Vineyard is in Yolo County, near the entrance of the Capay 
Valley, and covers 400 acres of foot-hills, with vines grown from the choicest grapes of 
the Champagne and Burgundy and Medoc districts, in 45 varieties. The roads travers- 
ing this noble estate are bordered with fig and olive, orange and lemon trees. The great 
wine-cellar has every modern appliance for the manufacture and storage of 300,000 gallons 
of wine. The products of this vineyard are celebrated for their agreeable freshness in taste, 
and prepossessing bouquet, and are used 
at the leading American hotels, and also 
largely in Europe, where this estate has 
an agency. The Arpad Haraszthy's Brut, 
Arpad Haraszthy's Extra Dry and Eclipse 
Champagnes are the three famous brands 
made here, from natural fermentation in arpad haraszthy i co.'s Orleans vineyard. 




SWEETWATER DAM : IRRIGATION-WORKS. 





ORCHARD IRRIGATION. 



THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 85 

bottles, the process being the same as that used in 
France. The vineyard belongs to Arpad llaraszthy 
&Co. , who also have immense stores and warehouses 
in San P'rancisco. Mr. Haraszthy is the son of the 
pioneer of scientific grape-culture in California, and 
spent five years (1857-62) in Europe, studying vine- 
growing and wine-making. 

The phylloxera, which during the past few years 
played great havoc, is being overcome. The inferior 
grapes upon which the pest feeds are being rooted 
out, and the choice foreign varieties, which are sub- 
ject to it, are protected by grafting on native wild varieties known as resistant vines, which 
the phylloxera does not affect. The marketing of the wines of California is done principally 
at San Francisco, whence they are shipped to almost all points of the world. One of the 
largest, oldest and best known of the wine-dealers of California is the firm of S. Lachman 
& Co., of San Francisco, with a branch house in New York. At their establishment may be 
seen a wonderful and complete storage system for aging, maturing, and blending the 

native product. Its capacity of over 2,000,- 
000 gallons, and the facilities for handling 
that immense quantity from year to year, 
indicate the incessant labor and capital in- 
volved in placing the wines before the con- 
sumer. The wines are contained in huge 
casks and tanks, varying in capacity from 
1,500 to 16,000 gallons each. The pro- 
moter and founder, Samuel Lachman, still the 
head of the firm, has been a leader in the busi- 
ness for 25 years. The plant covers 275 feet 
SAN FRANCISCO s LACHMAN i CO squarc, thc greater portiou of whlch is occuplcd by thc 

immense storage vaults, three floors in extent ; and space set apart for the manufacture of 
cooperage occupies another portion of this ground. Forty men are employed in handling 
and preparing wines for shipment. Medals and diplomas have been awarded at various 
International Expositions, and many letters of encomium received from connoisseurs every- 
where. The wines are brought from vineyards throughout the State, and comprise white 
wines of the Gutedel, Sauterne, Traminer, Riesling and Hock types; red wines of the 
Burgundy, Zinfandel and other red-wine grapes ; and sweet 
wines, like Angelica, Catawba, Ports, Sherries, Muscat, 
Mount Vineyard, Tokay, Malaga, and Madeira. Special 
attention is given to the careful bottling of fine wines, and 
to the purchasing of fine brandies produced in the State. 

California is the foremost wool-producing State, for her 
6,000,000 sheep give yearly 35,000,000 pounds of fine and 
heavy fleeces. In 1876 the wool-clip amounted to 56,500,- 
000 pounds, but the industry has declined since that time. 
During summer and early autumn the high valleys of the 
Sierra contain innumerable sheep, driven up from the dry 
hot lowlands, where they pass the winter without need of 
shelter. There are several ranches of over 100,000 acres 
each, like the Lux & Miller, Beale, and McLaughlin, de- 
voted to raising cattle and sheep, with vast areas of pastur- 
age on the mountains, abounding in nutritious grasses. 
The State has 800,000 neat cattle, 50,000 milch cows of bear-valley dam. 





86 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




POINT PINOLE : UNION STOCK-YARDS OF SAN FRANCISCO. 



good stock, 250,000 horses, and 400,000 swine. It produces yearly 15,000,000 pounds of 
butter and cheese, much of which is exported to Asia and the Sandwich Islands. Fully 
$30,000,000 worth of cattle are slaughtered yearly. The majority of the horses are Mexi- 
can mustangs, of Spanish breed, hardy little creatures, and good mountaineers, but packed 
to the ears with mischief and malice. Most of the old Spanish-Mexican population clings 
to the pastoral life of the stock-ranches, serving as herders, and galloping around the flocks, 
perched high on their peaked saddles on peppery little mustangs. The favorite forage-plant 
is alfalfa, or Chilian clover, a deep-rooted lucerne, resisting the fiercest droughts, and yield- 
ing twelve tons to the acre. The leading horse-breeding establishments are Leland Stan- 
ford's, the Hearst estate, and Baldwin's, where many famous race-horses have been reared. 

The erection of great stock-yards on ^ 

the Pacific Coast has been rendered neces- 
sary, for the food supply of the thronged 
and important cities of this fast-develop- 
ing region, and of the steamship lines 
running out of San Francisco. Vast 
quantities of canned and cured meats are 
also exported to the islands of the Pacific, 
and for the use of the Pacific and China 
squadrons. Accordingly, the Union Stock -Yards Company has been formed, with a capital 
of $2,500,000, and has built large modern yards on its 1,500 acres of land, on the main 
double-track line of the Southern and Central Pacific systems, with a frontage of nearly two 
miles on the Bay of San Francisco, at Point Pinole, near Berkeley. Of the live-stock grown 
on the Pacific Coast 85 per cent, comes to market over the rails leading by these stock- 
yards, whose wharves also are visited by ships from all parts of the world. Here, there- 
fore, will be the great distributing point for fresh and cured meats for an immense popula- 
tion ; and the pork-packing houses, tanneries, and similar industries will probably be 
concentrated on this tract, which is the most convenient place for their purposes in the 
vicinity of San Francisco. 

With a climate like Italy, Southern China, and Japan, California hopes to become the 
great silk-producing State. Thousands of black and white mulberry trees have been brought 
here from Milan, to afford food for the silk-worms. In 1854 the honey-bee entered Cali- 
fornia, and now there are above 50,oqo hives in Los- Angeles and San-Diego counties alone, 
besides thousands of escaped swarms, working all the year round. Over 6,000,000 pounds 
of honey are obtained yearly, besides 300,000 pounds of comb and 20,000 pounds of bees- 
wax. Some of the larger bee-ranches have 1,000 hives each, and every hive good for a 
hundred pounds of honey a year. The abundant spicy flowers and aromatic sage-brush 
give this honey a unique and delicious taste. There are several ostrich-ranches, where the 
beautiful African birds are successfully raised, each breeding pair having a pen of an acre 
in area, and living on alfalfa and corn. These powerful and pugnacious creatures are dan- 
gerously savage during breeding time, when they lay their eggs in deep holes in the sand. 

Gold Mining has produced in California, between 1849 ^'^'^ 1S90, nearly $1,300,000,- 
000 in bullion. The State yields more gold than any other, and nearly half of the Amer- 
ican output. For 15 years (1850-64, inclusive) the yield exceeded 
50,000,000 a year; but for the past 15 years it has fallen below 
$20,000,000. The gold-fields extend for 400 miles 
along the Sierra foot-hills, with an average width of 
35 miles. Another smaller field lies in the north- 
west, in the Coast Range. Gold abounds in South- 
.Mi«_ ,JJi«:^U® ern California also, where Los-Angeles County 
. -~fc,m*-T- ' alone has produced $10,000,000. The first mining 
PUBLIC LIBRARY. was in the placers, where the gold-seekers washed 




THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



87 




SAN QUENTIN : STATE PRISON. 




the earth or sand in pans or rockers, until the soil 
passed out, leaving a sediment of heavy yellow 
dust, which was gathered into an amalgam, by add- 
ing quicksilver. Very little placer-mining is now 
done, except by the Chinamen. In hydraulic min- 
ing, powerful six-inch jets of water, with head 
enough to be hard as steel, are turned upon banks 
of auriferous gravel, previously loosened by blast- 
ing, disintegrating them, and leaving the gold to be 
caught in cavities in the sluices below. To furnish this water, over 5,000 miles of aque- 
ducts were built, with reservoirs, dams, and trestles, at a cost of above $10,000,000. The 
hydraulic mines were mainly in Nevada, Placer and Sierra counties, and on the Klamath 
River. The gravel, or tailings, washed down inflicted great damage in the distant low- 
lands. The land-owners combined and secured judicial decrees against the miners, who 
were forced to erect costly and capacious retaining dams. As a result, hydraulic mining 
has been practically suspended, except on the Klamath River. In river-bed mining, the bed 
of the stream is laid bare, by diverting the water, and the gravel therein is washed in 
sluices. Drift mining consists in driving tunnels to the auriferous beds of ancient streams, 
bringing up the rich gravel, and washing it in sluices. One third of the gold is obtained 
by quartz-mining, crushing the gold ore removed from shafts, by heavy iron stamps, and 

extracting the precious metal, by amalgamating with 
quicksilver. This mining is done on the Mother Lode, 
which extends 80 miles, from Mariposa to Amador. The 
name of the Golden Gate, given long before gold 
was found in California, proved to be prophetic ; 
and myriads of Eastern Argonauts, Mexican-War 
veterans, Kanakas, Peruvians, and Australians 
poured into the land of treasure. In their min- 
ing towns, Red Dog, Git-up-and-Git, Gouge- 
SAN Francisco: united-states mint. -n- -ir t> t tv^ 1 tjt 11 tt 11 ti. ir 1 ,.\. 

Eye, \ ou Bet, JS early Hell, Hell Itself, and the 

like, they lived flush, and spent their gold as fast as it came — $3 for an egg, $15 for a 
shovel, $4 for a cup of coffee, and so on. 

Silver-Mines abound east of the Sierra Nevada, and have absorbed a vast amount of 
labor and cajiital, but have not been profitable. The lonely valleys beyond the Sierra are 
made more melancholy by the ruins of reduction-works and abandoned towns. The silver- 
belt stretches from Alaska far down into South America. It has produced $26,000,000 in 
bullion, in California. The chief Californian mines are near the Mohave River. 

The quicksilver product of California has exceeded $70,000,000; and goes on at the rate 
of 25,000 flasks (2,000,000 pounds) a year, much of which is exported to Mexico and China. 
There are 36 large furnaces now active, each roasting from 20 to 40 tons of ore daily, when 
needed. The deposits at New Almaden have produced above Soo,ooo flasks. Other mines 
are worked in Lake and Napa counties. 

Copper has been a valuable product, 
but the fall in price destroyed this 
industry. The high 
price of the metal 
since 1887 has caused 
several companies to 
re-open mines. Lead 
is produced from the 
silver ores of the Eu- 
reka, Cerro-Gordo, 












1 'iri5pr,'5r«riiii •: . 



SAN DIEGO : hotel CORONADO. 




CORONADO BEACH. 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




and other mines, mainly at the Selby Smelting Works, 
at San Francisco. Iron abounds, but is generally 
hard to get at, and remote from fuel. The first ex- 
ploiting of this product occurred in 1881, when the 
California Iron Company fired up furnaces at Clipper 
Cap. About 10,000 tons of chromic iron are ship- 
ped yearly to Scotland and Baltimore. Salt is made, 
by the evaporation of sea-water, at San Diego and 
Santa Monica, and on San-Francisco Bay. The Cal- 
ifornia Salt Works, at Mount Eden, have 3,000 acres 
of evaporating surface, and make yearly 15,000 tons 
of salt ; and 3,000 tons are made yearly at Dos Pal- 
mas, in the Colorado Desert. Borax is manufactured at Slate-Range Marsh, San-Bernar- 
dino County, to the extent of 15,000 tons yearly. The purest crystallized borax in the 
world is found in the lakes and springs of Lake County. The yearly product is valued at 
a high figure. Near Keeler great quantities of soda are made, by evaporating the water of 
Owen's Lake. The volcanic rocks of Lake County, reeking with steam and vapors, are 
rich in sulphur. About the year 1867, works were put up, and hundreds of tons of refined 
and brilliant sulphur went hence to San Francisco, until the competition of Sicilian sulphur 
destroyed the trade. Antimony has been mined on a large scale at San P^medio and Slay- 
ton, but without profit. As a producer of petroleum, California comes fifth, yielding 150,- 
000 barrels yearly. It is pumped from deep wells in Santa-Clara, Los- Angeles, and \ entura 
counties, at from five to 200 barrels each per dav, and this region is equipped with refineries 
and pipe-lines. The oil-territory extends for 160 
miles, and $3,000,000 are invested. The Pacific 
Oil Company's refinery, built in 1879 at Alameda 
Point, covers 15 acres. There are gas-wells near 
Clear Lake. Coal has been mined for 25 years 
on Mount Diablo, where there are veins of infer- 
ior bituminous coal (or lignite). Over 100,000 
tons are sent yearly to San Francisco. Coal has 
been derived in large amounts from the mines of 
Contra Costa and Amador, but the quality is not of the best, and consequently the 
industry is declining. Tin is found in San Bernardino, nickel in Monterey, manganese in 
Alameda, graphite in Del Norte, and arragonite in Colusa. Elsewhere occur deposits of 
platinum, iridium, tellurium, cobalt, alum, asbestos, isinglass, bismuth, alabaster, mineral 
paint, and kaolin. In the early days San Francisco sent to Australia for the stone to build 
its old city hall, and to China for the materials used in the walls of the Union Club and the 
Wells-Fargo offices. Since that time the local resources have become better known, and 
hundreds of quarries are in successful operation. Granite and gray sandstone are produced 
in great quantities, and at many places. Fine-grained dolomite is found at the Inyo quar- 
ries, porphyry at Riverside, tufa at Napa, soapstone at Sonora, ser- 
pentine at Benicia, basalt at Concord, red and white marble at 
Plymouth and Colton, at Antelope Valley and in Amador, 
and black and blue slate near Placerville. There 
are large lime-kilns in several localities. The 
beautiful marble and onyx of Glover Mountain, 
near Colton, have a high decorative value, and are 
extensively worked. Another immense marble 
region is in Inyo County. The new Mills Build- 
ing is faced with Inyo marble. Fine bituminous 
SAN FRANCiscoT ST. -IGNATIUS CHURCH AND COLLEGE. i"ock, for Street paviug, is shipped from Ventura. 




SAN JOSE, FROM THE DOME OF THE COURT-HOUSE. 





SIERRA MADRE I 
CHURCH OF THE ASCENSION. 



THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 

The mineral springs are of great variety, and occur amid 
beautiful mountain scenery. Napa Soda Springs flow from a 
mountain-side above the charming Napa Valley, and the grounds 
cover 1,000 acres, in which there are numerous stone buildings 
and cottages. The White Sulphur Springs bubble up in a 
deep and romantic gorge near St. Helena. The Hot Springs 
of Calistoga contain sulphur, iron and magnesia, at a temper- 
ature of 185°. The Geysers, one of the revealing marvels of 
the earth, with its " crust of fossils and heart of fire," are hid- 
den in a Tartarean gorge among the violet peaks and redwood forests of the Mayacamas 
Mountains, with boiling and spouting springs of iron, soda, alum, and ink, and white, red 
and black sulphur waters, dark Stygian pools, cliffs forever wreathed in steam, black swirl- 
ing caldrons, hot ashes, chemical odors, and intense colors, a veritable Satan's medicine- 
shop. The California Seltzer Springs have a good alkaline water. Highland Springs, in 
Lake County, are alkaline, and charged with carbonic acid. The hotel is 1,740 feet high, 
among the Mayacamas Mountains. Other resorts are the Aqua de Vita, in Alameda, with 
saline and sulphur waters ; the Mission-San-Jos6 Hot Springs ; the Byron 
Hot Springs, 65° to 128°, in a valley of Contra Costa; Paraiso Springs, 
near Monterey ; ^tna Springs, in Pope Valley (Napa); Campbell's Hot 
Springs, 5,025 feet high, in Sierra County; Skagg's Hot Springs; Bartlett 
Springs ; and Seigler Springs, near Clear Lake, with valuable 
chalybeate waters. Southern California has thousands of min- 
eral springs, bubbling, rushing, and jetting from its volcanic 
strata, like those at Lang, Temecula, Matilija, Temescal, 
San Juan, and San Fernando. The hot sulphur waters of the 
Santa-Barbara Springs are efficient in chronic rheumatism. 
The hotel is 1,450 feet above the sea, in a pleasant and 
equable climate. The Arrowhead Hot Springs break forth 
in a canon of the San-Bernardino Range. They number 25, 
at temperatures from 140° to 193° ; and the hotel is 2,000 
feet above the sea. The Carlsbad waters resemble those of 
the German Carlsbad. The hot springs at El Paso de Robles 
have for many years been visited by people of fashion. 
The State Board of Forestry has done good service in introducing the Tasmanian blue- 
gum, Australian sugar-gum, Torrey pine, locust, wattle, and catalpa. It has six large parks, 
with plantations of trees ; and publishes valuable illustrated reports. The monarchs of 
all these woodlands are the Sequoia gigantea, growing in groves 
along the Sierra Nevada, from 6,000 to 7,000 feet above the 
sea. FTigh up in the valley of King's River is a forest, where 
for leagues the lofty tops of these redwoods rise above their 
lowlier brethren. The tallest of them reaches a height of 325 
feet, and their circumference is from 50 to 100 feet. The bark 
has a thickness of two feet. The Big Trees have been visited 
by thousands of tourists since their discovery, in 1852, most of 
the people going to the Calaveras Grove, where there is a road 
and hotel. There are famous groves on the Stanislaus, the 
Merced, and the Tuolumne River. The Big-Tree Groves of 
Mariposa cover above 2,500 acres, 6,500 feet above the sea, 
and have been reserved as the Sequoia National Park. They 
contain more than 300 great trees, much marred by fire, but 
still wonderfully grand and impressive. The Calaveras 
Grove includes nearly 100 Big Trees, several of them over redwood forest. 




SACRAMENTO \ 



HE CATHEDRAL. 




9° 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




FORT BRAQQ : FORT-BRAGG REDWOOD CO. 'S MILLS. 



300 feet tall. These are the loftiest trees in all 
America. One of them has been cut down, by- 
five men working 22 days ; and its stump forms 
the floor of a pavilion 23 by 24 feet in area. The 
redwoods (^Sequoia sempervirens), whose mag- 
nificent forests thrive only in the sea-fogs of 
the Coast Range, and mainly north of the 
Golden Gate, reach a height of 300 feet, and 
afford a durable and valuable wood for building. 
This is one of the most highly prized varieties 
of lumber, and has latterly been shipped in 
great quantities to the Eastern States, where its 
ornamental properties are fully appreciated. Among the chief handlers of redwood are 
the well-kno\vn and allied Fort-Bragg Redwood Company and Noyo Lumber Company, 
which own vast tracts of woodlands, and are continually investing in areas of forests. 
Their domain covers over 70,000 acres of land, and the rest of the plant includes eight 
miles of railway, besides vessels and mills, and other efficient and valuable auxiliaries. 
The chief mills are at Fort Bragg, on the great belt of redwood which runs through Men- 
docino County, along the coast, with a breadth of 15 miles. In this vast area of virgin 
forest the companies employ 800 men, getting out redwood and pine, for lumber and 
shingles, shakes and ties, logs and posts. The 
long ocean-frontage and the two harbors on this 
great domain give unusual facilities for the ex- 
portation of lumber, much of which is formed 
into rafts and towed to San Francisco. These 
companies were the first to inaugurate the raft- 
ing system on the Pacific Coast ; and they are 
the largest dealers in split redwood railroad ties, 
which have come into general use and favor. 

The other interesting trees of_the Coast are 
the cypresses of Carmel Bay, the great pines of Monterey, the glossy-leaved madrono, 
and the fine-grained California laurel. The Great Valley is diversified by many groves 
and clumps of lobata oaks, changing on the foot-hills to scattered Douglas and live oaks and 
digger pines. Higher up along the Sierra come the large white cedar, yellow and black 
pines, and Douglas fir, the last-named covering vast areas and having high economic 
value. On this same belt are the amazing sugar-pines, reaching a height of from 200 to 
300 feet, and highly prized for timber. At from 4,000 to 8,500 feet above the sea, these 
trees give place to the grand coniferous forest of California, the hardy white, red and silver 
cedars and tamaracks and pines, and many silver spruces, above which stretch' the un- 
trodden snows and granite peaks. The hickory, beech, elm, and other well-known trees 

are not found here, and much timber has to be 
imported for industrial uses. The magnificent 
oaks and sycamores of the south fairly shut out 
the sunlight, and alternate with mountain fronts 
and canon-sides carpeted with chapparal, or 
matted thickets of innumerable many-colored 
shrubs. On the valley ranches long belts of 
eucalyptus and poplar have been planted for 
firewood, and to keep the wind from the olive- 
yards and almond groves. 

The chief animals are the fierce grizzly bears 
of the Coast Range ; the black and the cinnamon 




FORT BRAGG REDWOOD CO. 'S MILLS. 




FORT-BRAGa REDWOOD CO, 'S RAFTS. 



THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



91 




bears, the deer and antelope, and the mountain goats 
of the Sierra Nevada ; the elks of the Shasta region ; 
the famous sea-lions of the Farallones and Seal Rocks, 
whose huge size, unwieldy gambols and odd noises are 
observed by nearly all visitors to San Francisco ; the 
gophers and squirrels, detested by husbandmen ; and 
the beavers, still remaining in remote places. The 
birds number 350 species, headed by the largest Amer- 
ican flyers, the California vultures. 

Government. — The Governor of California is 
elected for four years. The Legislature includes 40 
BIG TREES. four-years' senators and 80 two-years' representatives. 

The Supreme Court has seven justices, elected by the people for twelve years. The mag- 
nificent State Capitol at Sacramento was built in 1860-74, at a cost of $2,600,000, and stands 
in a park of 25 acres, abounding in lawns and flowers. 

The National Guard of California is organized into a division of six brigades, composed of 
seven regiments and four companies. The First and Third Infantry, Second Artillery (eight 
companies serving as infantry), Battery A (four Parrotts and four Catlings), and the Hussars, 
are at San Francisco ; and the Fifth Infantry belongs in neighboring cities. The Sixth 
Infantry comes from about Stockton ; the Seventh Infantry from the Los-Angeles country ; 
the First Artillery, from the Sacramento region ; and the Chico, Colusa and Eureka Guards. 
There are occasional encampments of portions of the National Guard, and some atten- 
tion is given to rifle-practice. The uniform resembles that of the United-States army. 

The Napa State Asylum for the Insane, with 1,500 inmates, is a noble building, sur- 
rounded by lawns and orchards, vineyards and olive-yards. The Stockton State Asylum 
for the Insane holds 1,700 patients, in commodious buildings, amid spacious and pleasant 
grounds. The California Hospital for the Chronic Insane, at Agnews, holds 500 incurables. 
The Mendocino Insane Asylum is at Ukiah. The South-Californian State Asylum for the 
Insane was founded in 1889. The California Home for the Care and Training of Feeble- 
Minded Children, opened in 1885, at Santa Clara, has over loo inmates. The California 
Institution for the Education of the Deaf and Dumb and the Blind, at Berkeley, has 160 
boys and girls, in a group of cottages looking out through the Golden Gate to the Pacific 
Ocean. There are 19 orphan asylums receiving State aid and inspection. The State Prison 
at San Quentin, twelve miles from San Francisco, across the bay, has 1,400 convicts, 
including many Mexicans and Indians. The State Prison at Folsom, opened in 1880, has 
700 inmates. The State Reform School for Juvenile Offenders, at Whittier, in Los- Angeles 
County, is conducted on the cottage-plan, and teaches various trades, besides farming and 
fruit-growing. The Preston School of Industry for Youthful Criminals was founded in 
1889, at lone City, Amador County. 

National Institutions. — The only American naval station on the Pacific Coast is the 
Navy Yard at Mare Island, 28 miles from San Francisco. The usual stone and brick buildings 
for construction and storage, hospitals and barracks, are grouped on one side of a fertile island 
ten miles around, with deep water and good anchorage off-shore. The three-million-dollar 

stone dr> dock can accommodate the largest ships in the 

\\oil(l Of late years the yard has been abandoned to 
peaceful decay, with the ironclads JMonadnock 
and Contaiiche rusting at their moorings, and 
I irragut's flagship Hartford rotting in the 
stteam. The Presidio Reservation extends 
along the Golden Gate, with pleasant pa- 
rade-grounds and barracks, and the lar- 
gest garrison on the Pacific Coast. Here 




BERKELEY : UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. 



92 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SAN FRANCISCO : THE SYNAGOGUE. 



Fort Winfield Scott's casemate batteries and barbette earthworks face 
the narrowest part of the Golden Gate. Fort Mason is another defence 
of San Francisco. Alcatraz Island rises inside the Golden Gate, as 
picturesque as Malta, with its ascending lines of fortifications. Angel 
Island is occupied by batteries, barracks, and parade-grounds. Fort Bid- 
well, the station of two companies of cavalry, overlooks the 6o 
miles of the Surprise Valley, with its three bitter alkaline lakes 
and wide-spreading plains of sage-brush. Fort Gaston, in the 
Hoopa Valley, has one company of bored and lonely infantry- 
men. There are barracks at Benicia and San Diego ; and an 
arsenal at Benicia. Southern California is in the Military 
Department of Arizona, whose headquarters is at Los Angeles. 
The National Soldiers' Home at Santa Monica occupies 300 
acres of beautiful rolling land, and amid these magnificent 
scenes of nature, and in this glorious climate, 600 old warriors are quartered. The Vete- 
rans' Home at Yountsville receives disabled Californian soldiers. 

The Mission Indians number more than 3,000, and occupy 21 little reservations in 
Southern California. They are of medium height and sturdy build, with flat faces, of a 
ginger-cake color. Their chief occupation is farming, and many earn good pay 
as farm-laborers and sheep-shearers. The Hoopa Reservation covers 140 square 
miles, on the Trinity River, and contains 463 Indians of the 
northwestern tribes, mostly engaged in farming. The little Kla- 
math-River Reservation has 220 Indians, who excel in the sal- 
mon fisheries. The Round-Valley Reservation, in the northern 
Coast Range, with 500 Indians, has been almost entirely seized 
by white trespassers. 

Education. — The yearly school revenue is above $5,000,- 
000. The school-property is valued at $14,000,000; and the 
school-fund, held by the State Treasurer, exceeds .$3,000,000. 
The State series of text-books are compiled and manufactured 
in California, and sold to the students at cost. The private 
schools have an attendance of 21,000 children. The normal 
schools are at San Jose, Los Angeles, and Chico. 

The University of California is the crown of the educational institutions of the State. It 
was developed by State and National gifts, upon a remarkable foundation — the old Col- 
lege of California, established before the close of the mining era, by Henry Durant, Dr. 

Bushnell, and other New-Englanders. 
This college maintained a standard of 
scholarship equal to that of Yale. In 
1868 its trustees turned over the whole 
institution to the University, which was 
then in process of creation, and de- 
voted all their energies to advancing the 
interests of the enterprise. The Univer- 
sity, under the Hatch Law, controls 
$15,000 a year from the National Gov- 
ernment, for agricultural experiment 
stations. The State adds a large ap- 
propriation, and the whole, under the 
direction of Prof. E. W. Hilgard, is 
spent on four stations and several sub- 
stations, where many important horti- 




LOS ANGELES I 




•^1 _rTjT-Tr- 






T 



rr 






1 






1 1 I 
[ill 






6AN FRANCISCO : THE PALACE HOTEU 



THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



93 




LICK OBSERVATORY TELESCOPE. 



cultural experiments are made. The endowment of the 
University represents $7,000,000. In 1873 the institution 
moved from the old college buildings to its present site at 
Berkeley, covering 200 acres on the lower slopes of the Coast 
Range, whence the view passes seaward through the Golden 
Oate. It has upwards of 400 students, including 50 women. 
In the classical course there are 50; literary, 40; letters and 
political science, 106; agriculture, 14; mechanics, 23; civil 
engineering, 34 ; chemistry, 23 ; and others are in special stu- 
dents' courses. There are 27 professors and associate pro- 
fessors, and 28 other instructors. The schools of Dentistry (50 
students). Pharmacy (77), Law (76), and Medicine (97), are 
at San Francisco. No tuition is charged, save in the profes- 
sional schools. 

The world-renowned Lick Observatory, and the astronomi- 
cal department of the University, was founded by James Lick, a 
Pennsylvanian, who made a fortune in South America, and 
vastly increased it in Californian real estate. He was buried (not at his direction) in the solid 
pier of masonry which upholds the great telescope, ordered in his trust deed to be "superior 
to and more powerful than any telescope ever yet made." The United States granted Mount 
Hamilton ; Santa-Clara County built a noble road, 26 miles long, from San Jose to the 
summit ; and California assumed the publication of the observations. The peak is occupied 
by the brick buildings for the observatories, instruments, and library, and the astronomers' 
dwellings. The view includes the bays of San Francisco and Monterey, the lovely Santa-Cruz 
Mountains, the San -Joaquin Valley, and the colossal Sierra, and Lassen Butte, 175 miles 
north. The telescope has an object-glass 36 inches in diameter, and a tube 56 feet long. It 
is the largest refractor ever made. Warner & Swasey, of Cleveland, (Ohio), designed and 
built the 36-inch equatorial telescope, and also the 6-inch equatorial and the 25 -foot steel 
dome. The time-service of all the Pacific railways, from Ogden to El Paso, is given out 
from the Lick Observatory. 

The University of Southern California, founded by the Methodist Episcopal Church in 
1880, has large land endowments, with its colleges of letters, music and medicine in and near 
Los Angeles, a theological school at San Fernando, and a school of agriculture at Ontario. 

The Leland Stanford Junior University, planned by Senator Stanford as a memorial of 
his deceased son, and which he expects to endow with $20,000,000, will include a complete 
system of education, from the kindergarten to learned post-graduate schools, with colleges 
of law, medicine and music, conducted by the foremost men in these departments. The 
present endowment consists of about 30,000 acres of land, which cannot be sold. The 
University is at Palo Alto, south of San Francisco, in a lovely pastoral country, and with 
views of the Coast Range. Several of the buildings are finished, in a grand Moorish archi- 
tecture, of yellow sandstone. Shepley, Rutan & Coolidge, of Boston, are the architects. 

Among other colleges the Catholics have St. Vincent's (1867), at Los Angeles; St. 
Ignatius (1855), at San Francisco ; the Jesuit College, at Santa Clara, with 178 students ; the 
College of Notre Dame, at San Diego, for Catholic girls ; and the Franciscan College, at 
Santa Barbara. The Methodist-Episcopal 
Church conducts the Pacific Methodist 
College (1861), at Santa Rosa; and Napa 
College (1870), at Napa City. The Uni- 
versity of the Pacific has five large build- 
ings on its domain, between San Jose and 
Santa Clara, with 16 instructors and 188 
students, besides 235 preparatory pupils. 




MOUNT HAMILTON : LICK OBSERVATORY. 



94 




KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

The Cogswell Polytechnic College, 
at San Francisco, was erected and 
equipped by its founder, and is 
maintained by the city. It enjoys an 
endowment of $300,000, and began 
its work in 1888. At Woodland and 
College City are Christian colleges ; 
and San-Joaquin College is at Woodbridge. The theological schools are at San Rafael 
(Presbyterian; founded in 1871, and well endowed); Benicia (St. Augustine's, Episcopal); 
and Oakland (Congregationalist ; 1869; 35 students in 1890). The Hastings College of 
Law belongs to the University of California. There are medical schools at San Francisco, 
Oakland, and Los Angeles, with 225 students; and dental and pharmaceutical colleges at 
San Francisco. 

Belmont School was opened in 1SS5, near Belmont, on the Southern Pacific Railroad, 
25 miles south of San Francisco. It was founded by the present Head-Master, W. T. Reid 
(Harvard, 1868), who resigned the Presidency of the University of California for the pur- 
pose of carrying out his long-cherished plan of erecting a preparatory school for boys, 
which should hold an honorable place among the best educational institutions in the coun- 
try. The location of the school is probably un- 
surpassed as regards healthfulness, beauty, con- | 
venience, and adaptability. Its steadfast pur- ' 
poses are to offer thorough preparation for those 
colleges and technical schools whose require- 
ments for admission are most severe ; to do all 
that it may to quicken the moral and religious 
sense, and strengthen the moral courage ; and 
^^0 give such attention to systematic physical cul- 
ture as shall contribute to good health and a 
vigorous physical development. The graduates 
of the school have for the most part entered 
Harvard, Yale, The University of California, Cornell University, or the Massachusetts 
Institute of Technology. No candidate from the school has ever failed to pass the exami- 
nations for which he was recommended as prepared, and it is the only private school in 
the State whose graduates are admitted to all departments of the University of California 
without examination. Physical culture under the direction of a special teacher of.gymnas- 
tics is a stated requirement, and has a place in the programme of exercises, the same as 
mathematics, English, or any other requirement. Military drill is a feature only as an 
adjunct to the work of physical culture. The discipline of the school is very simple, and 
entirely in the interest of boys who are on the whole well meaning. Belmont does not 
pretend to keep and successfully deal with bad boys, and is perhaps a little intolerant of 
them, for it insists on their immediate withdrawal as soon as their unruly, vicious, or vul- 
gar dispositions become known. The school does not attempt the 
good work of reformation, and it is not therefore a fitting place 
for boys who need what is ordinarily termed severe 
discipline. 

The California Academy of Sciences, founded 
in 1853, was endowed with $500,000 by James 
Lick, and has large collections in botany, entomol- 
ogy, birds and fishes. It occupies a fine Roman- 
lii^ esque building at San Francisco. The Mining 
Bureau has an immense collection of Californian 
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA : THE LIBRARY. orcs and mmcrals. 




BELMONT THE BELMONT SCHOOL 




THE STATE OE CALIEORNIA. 



95 




SAN JOSE : COURT-HOUSE. 



Public libraries are found in Alameda, Marysville, Napa, Oak- 
land, Petaluma, Sacramento, Ventura, San Diego, Santa Barbara, 
Los Angeles, Stockton, Riverside, and other places. In 
San Francisco the chief libraries are the Sutro, 110,000 
volumes; Free Public, 70,000 ; Mercantile, 60,000; Ban- 
croft Pacific, 45,000; Mechanics' Institute, 45,000; Odd 
Fellows', 40,000 ; and California Academy of Sciences, 
10,000. The State Library at Sacramento has 70,000; 
the University at Berkeley, 28,000. Hubert Howe Ban- 
croft, the historian of the Pacific States, has a fire-proof 
library at San Francisco, containing 45,000 volumes. 
The chief collection of paintings is the Crocker Art Gal- 
lery, at Sacramento. 

The statues of California include W. W. Story's bronze 
memorial of Philip Barton Key, erected at San Francisco in 1888 ; D. C. French's heroic statue 
of Thomas Starr King ; Mead's Columbus before Isabella, in the Capitol at Sacramento ; and 
statues of John Howard Payne, James A. Garfield, and Marshall, the discoverer of gold. 

The Newspapers of California include 86 dailies and 
more than 400 others. Of these 15 are in German, seven in 
French, four in Italian, three in Spanish, and two each in Por- 
tuguese, Scandinavian and Chinese. 

One of the most conspicuous buildings of San Francisco is 
that in which the Chronicle of that city is housed. It is the 
first tall fire-proof structure erected on the Pacific Coast, and 
attracts attention, because its enterprising owner, M. H. de 
Young, by his bold act broke down a long-standing prejudice 
against high buildings, which was the outcome of the fear 
inspired by earthquakes. Since the erection of the Chronicle 
Building this fear has been entirely dissipated, and other ten- 
story edifices are being put up. Mr. de Young's enterprising 
character has been displayed throughout his entire career. He 
has made the Chronicle the foremost agency in the develop- 
ment of the Pacific Coast, and it now has a circulation exceed- 
ing 60,000. He is well known in the political world, being a 




SAN FRANCISCO : 
THE SAN-FRANCjSCO CHRONICLE. 



member of the Republican National Committee and a prominent candidate 
States Senator. He is also one of the Vice-Presidents of the World's 
mission, and has expended a great deal of his surplus energy in the work 
tion. The great new building erected by and for the Chronicle looms 
with impressive effect, with a massive bronze clock-tower rising 
above the pavement, and bearing the largest dials in America 
across). The entire structure is a marvel of strength, stability and 
ness ; its wonderful frame-work of steel and iron uniting with an ex- 
stone and brick to form an edifice proof at once against fire and 
earthquake. 

Chief Cities. — San Francisco is the metropolis of the 
North Pacific, with almost the only good harbor from Mex- 
ico to Puget Sound, and seems destined to a great expan- 
sion, since it must always control the imports and exports 
and general markets of the Great Valley and Nevada. It 
is six miles from the Pacific Ocean, and occupies the point 
of a long peninsula, between the bay, the ocean, and the 
world-renowned Golden Gate. 



for United- 
Fair Com- 
of organiza- 
over the city 
208 feet 
(i6i feet 
light- 
Icrior of 




8AN FRANCISCO : THE STAR-SPANGLED BAN- 
NER Cor key's) monument. 



96 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




PALO ALTO 

LELAND STANFORD JR 

UN VERSTY 






Among the abrupt heights which diversify the site 
are the Mission Peaks, 925 feet high, and Russian and 
Tclegiaph Hills. The Golden-Gate Park has cost 
$1,000,000, and covers 1,013 acres, out to 
the ocean-shore ; and the Cliff House 
KiT^ and Seal Rocks and Sutro Heights 

'3J»fi^«ifv ^ are at Point Lobos, with the Presidio 

~^'^- " "" Reservation farther within the Gol- 
den Gate. San Francisco is grow- 
ing rapidly, with 16 lines of cable- 
roads, steamboats to many points on 
the bay and rivers, and 50 steam- 
ships running to the Sandwich Islands, and the Pacific, Asiatic and Australian ports. The 
chief imports are sugar, tea, rice, and coffee. The City Hall, begun in 1871, has cost 
$4, 500,000. This is a wonderfully cosmopolitan city, where almost every civilized language 
may be heard. Mexican infantry marches down the streets to celebrate the anniversary 
of the independence of Mexico ; Italian societies commemorate the unity of Italy ; the 
Chinese haul their divine dragon, 100 feet long, through the streets of their quarter (where 
20,000 Chinamen dwell), amid an amazing din of fire-crackers, drums, cymbals and flutes ; 
and Irishmen celebrate or contemn the Battle of the Boyne. The beautiful bay, lined with 
white cities and reflecting great mountain-ranges, is traversed by 
ocean-steamships, ferry-boats, and sailing vessels, from the 
unwieldy junks of the Chinese shrimpers and the lateen- 
sailed feluccas of the Maltese and Greek fishermen to the 
towering white canvas of the clipper-ships. The city 
has manufactories of iron, glass, woolens, blankets, 
cable and wire, flour, mining machinery, cordage, and 
sugar, employing 7,000 operatives, with a yearly pro- _-~§^S 
duct of $82,000,000. The grain-fleet ships 1,000,000 
tons each year, and the value of the yearly imports "-os angeles : army headquarters. 

and exports is $150,000,000, employing a large number of steamships and packets. 

In San Francisco there has just arisen a period of grand and lofty buildings. After the 
Chronicle Building came the fine Mark Hopkins Building. The superb D. O. Mills Build- 
ing is being erected at a cost of $1,250,000. It will be an office structure, flesigned with 
rich Southern feeling in its details. It will be ten stories high, 160 by 138 feet, the lower 
three stories of white Inyo marble, the upper seven of delicate creamy buff brick, and 
terra cotta of the same color. A main feature is an elegant sky-lighted rotunda, beautifully 
constructed of marble. Its appointments are to be unsurpassed in any office structure 
on the continent, and the Mills Building will remain for many years one of the notable 
sights of the Pacific Coast. Here, too, are the executive offices 
of the world-famous Wells, Fargo & Co.'s express and banking 
institutions, the express building being very attractive. 

Sacramento, 83 miles from San Francisco, on the Sacra- 
mento River, is the State capital, and has the immense Pacific- 
Railroad shops, besides manufactories of pottery, flour, furni- 
ture, and woolens. It is the centre of a very productive fruit- 
region, and ships more green fruit than all the rest of the State. 
Oakland, seven miles from San Francisco, across the bay, is a 
beautiful suburban city, embowered in flowers and semi-tropi- 
cal fruit-trees, free from the coast fogs, and sheltered by the 
Contra-Costa hills. Near it is Berkeley, the seat of the Univer- 
sity of California. 





SAN FRANCISCO: 
THE 0. O. MILLS BUILDINQ. 



THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



97 




SAN FRANCISCO : WELLS, FARGO 



The chief cities of northern California are Peta- 
luma, Santa Rosa, and Napa, in the wine-producing 
valleys of the Coast Range ; Grass Valley and Nevada 
City, in the foot-hills, with profitable gold-mines ; 
Marysville, the metropolis of the Yuba country, once 
prolific of gold, and now of fruit ; and Eureka, export- 
ing lumber to the ports of the Pacific. Stockton is a 
famous wheat-market, with warehousing capacity of 
100,000 tons. Here are electric cars, many mills, 
and a costly granite court-house. San Jose, 47 miles 
south of San Francisco, is an attractive modern city, with large parks, broad streets, seven 
newspapers, many factories, and a valuation of $12,000,000. 

Santa Barbara, 288 miles from San Francisco, is a famous watering-place, overlooking 
the Pacific, under the lee of the stately Santa- Ynez Mountains. The mission, founded in 
1782, is still a Franciscan monastery. Immense vultures, or condors, with a spread of 
wings of twelve feet, haunt the Santa- Ynez. In this same region is Camulos, the scene 
of Rainona. Los Angeles, with its network of railroads and motor-roads, eleven banks 

and six parks, iron-works and other factories, 
is 16 miles inland. There are water-works, 
electric lights, and costly public buildings. The 
metropolis of Southern California was founded 
by twelve Spanish soldiers, who named it El 
Pueblo de la Reina de los Angeles, the Town of 
the Queen of the Angels. The mild and de- 
lightful climate of this valley has made it a san- 
itarium for thousands of Eastern people, whose 
pleasant homes are fast filling the region. The 
San-Gabriel Valley, 40 by ten miles in area, 
lies along the base of the Sierra Madre, and is 
occupied by ranches and villages, the chief of 
which is Pasadena, buried in orange-groves and rose-thickets, palms and pepper-trees, 
nine miles from Los Angeles and 25 miles from the Pacific. The wonderfully equable cli- 
mate of this locality, and the magnificent scenery of the Sierra, have made it one of the 
foremost winter-resorts of the world, with great hotels and handsome villas. In midwinter 
rich flowers and fruits fill the gardens, from whose fragrant depths wild snow-storms maybe 
seen whirling over the Sierra peaks. San Diego is 480 miles southeast of San Francisco, 
and within four leagues of the Mexican frontier. From 4,000 inhabitants in 1885 it rose to 
30,000 in 1S87, with all the modern metropolitan conveniences. The noble harbor is the 
seat of a large ocean commerce. The climate is remarkably equable, and thousands of 
pleasure-tourists come here, and to 
the beautiful trans-harbor suburb 
of Coronado Beach, whose hotel 
cost $1,200,000. Farther up the 
harbor National City overlooks the 
sea, with the villa-suburb of Chula 
Vista on the high red mesa beyond. 
San Diego is the oldest city in Cali- 
fornia, and the ruins of Father Juni- 
pero's mission of 1769 are still pre- 
served near the Mexican suburb. 
A few miles back, at the mouth of 
a canon, stands the famous Sweet- 




>iCISCO ; GOLDEN-GATE PARK. 




5,8 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

water Dam, one of the largest in the world, with a curving wall of masonry 90 feet high 
and 46 feet thick at the base. The magnificent entrance to San-Diego Bay, the Silver Gate, 
leads into a safe and capacious harbor. 

Railroads. — In 1856 the Sacramento- Valley Railroad began its works, from Sacramento 
to Folsom. It had 23 miles in i860. The second road built was from San Francisco, and 
began running in 1863, and reached the State line in January, 1868, and Ogden in May, 1869. 
This triumph of modern engineering crosses the vSierra 7,042 feet above the sea. The Cen- 
tral Pacific is 274 miles long, from Oakland to the State line ; and 872 miles to Ogden, 
where it meets the Union Pacific. Its Oregon Branch runs from Rosewell up the Sacra- 
mento Valley, by Marysville, Chico, and Tehama to the Oregon line (296 miles), and then 



land. Another line follows the 
to Tehama, loi miles. South- 
single track runs from Lathrop, 
outlet to the raisin-country, 
in effect controls the lines from 
ing Texas, New Mexico and 




SAN FRANCISCO : THE PROPOSED NEW CITY HALL. 



down the Umpqua and Willamette valleys to Po: t- 
western side of the Great Valley from Woodland 
ward for 146 miles up the San-Joaquin Valley a 
near Stockton, to Goshen, near Visalia, giving an 
The Southern- Pacific Railroad Company now 
New Orleans to the Columbia River. After cross- 
Arizona, the line enters 
California at Yuma, and 
swings down along the 
San-Bernardino Moun- 
tains, to Los Angeles, 
Santa Monica and Santa 
Barbara. By its lines 
down the San-Joaquin 
Valley this route is prolonged to San Francisco and Oregon. The rails cross the Tahichipi 
Pass, where the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range meet in a tangle of peaks, by one of 
the most famous and dexterous pieces of engineering in the world. Another section of 
the Southern Pacific runs from San Francisco to San Jose, Santa Cruz and Monterey, and 
then up the long Salinas Valley, amid the fastnesses of the Coast Range. The California 
Southern Railroad connects National City and San Diego with Oceanside, San Bernardino 
and Barstow, a line of 211 miles of track. The Atlantic & Pacific Railroad crosses the 
Colorado River at the Needles, and meets the Southern at Barstow, and the Southern 
Pacific at Mojave. This is the famous Atchison, Topeka & Santa-Fe route, practically 
beginning at Chicago, and traversing the great southwestern section of the Republic. 

The Carson & Colorado narrow-gauge line comes down out of Nevada, in the tremend- 
ous volcanic and silver-bearing gorge between the Sierra Nevada and the Inyo Range, and 
stops at Keeler, on Owen's Lake. The lovely and serene valleys north of San Francisco 
are traversed by several railways, with a single strand flying far north to Ukiah. 

Insurance. — The rapid development of property necessitated 
the forming of a local insurance interest ; and in 1862 a num- 
ber of San-Francisco gentlemen filed incorporation papers for 
an insurance company, which was organized during the follow- 
ing year. It took the name of the Fireman's Fund Insurance 
Company, designing to give a part of its profits to the charity 
fund of the local fire department. The Chicago fire inflicted 
on the company a loss of over $500,000 ; the Boston fire $200,- 
000; and the Virginia-City fire, $164,000. All these disasters 
were promptly met ; and the capital of the company has ad- 
vanced from $200,000 to $1,000,000, with assets of $2,500,000. 
For the past 1 5 years this solid corporation has never skipped a 
dividend, and its name is favorably known in every city of the 
East, where it is represented by many active agents. 






'M\ \l 




SAN FRANC SCO 
FIREMAN S FUND INSURANCE CO 



THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA 














SAN FRANCISCO AND ITS HARBOR, AND THE GOLDEN GATE. 

Finance.— The commercial banks of California have deposits amounting to $42,000,- 
000; the savings banks hold $100,000,000. The State and its chief city, San Francisco, 
are practically out of debt. 

The Pacific Bank of San Francisco is the oldest chariered commercial bank on the 
Pacific Coast, andhasa capitaland reserve of $1,800,000, and resources of above$5, 000, 000. 
Within 25 years it has paid to its stockholders $1,500,000 in dividends; and its stock is 
held at $180 a share. The business transacted by this institution exceeds $225,000,000 
a year, and is constantly growing in volume. The bank was founded by a number of con- 
servative capitalists, in 1863, during the period of wild speculation in mining stocks, and 
arrested attention immediately by refusing mining stock as collateral, and avoiding dealing 
with brokers and speculators in these stocks. Adhering to this brave policy, the corpora- 
tion has advanced slowly but steadily, first under the leadership of Gov. Peter H. Burnett 
(from 1863 to 1880), and ever since under the presidency of Dr. R. H. McDonald, who 
is also famous as an enthusiastic worker in the temperance cause. 

The extraordinary growth of California has resulted in the natural development of a 
State of great resources, aided very materially by the 
influx of well-to-do immigrants and investors from all 
over the United States. San Francisco is the great me- 
tropolis and financial centre of the Pacific Coast, and 
has developed an important line of business in the way 
(if real estate. The leader in this strong department of 
Pacific-Coast commercial affairs is the representative firm 
uf Easton, Eldridge & Co., the lai^gest real-estate house 
on the Coast and the peer of representative houses in this 
line of business in the world. Their operations are in- 
cluded in the buying and selling of land, placing of 
6AN FRANCISCO : PACIFIC BANK. Capital for purchases or for loan, and subdividing of par- 




KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SAN FRANCISCO: EASTON, 
ELDRIDGE &. CO. 



ccls of property throughout the State (and in this department they 
have been identified with the leading colonization projects of the Pa- 
cific Coast). In the excursion department special trains are run 
to different points, that new-comers may view California at a mod- 
crate rate for transportation. The archives of the firm, which date 
baCk to the incorporation of the city, are open to inspectors. The 
management is Wendell Easton, President ; George W. Frink, 
Vice-President ; F. B. Wilde, Secretary ; and the Anglo-California 
Bank of San Francisco, Treasurer. The firm has its principal offices 
^1 ,_ in San Francisco, with ten departments in as many Californian 
,B ilB Hh|I)|P1.I!J i|| cities, and 40 sub-agencies, with 200 employees. This vast and 
j|f|!,j^ jSJ'ffi)ltartl|l complicated business is conducted with a thorough system, and has 
itpj tt'^ achieved results of astonishing magnitude and success. 

Nowhere else have so many extensive- colonies been successfully 
planned and started as in California, much of whose prosperity is due 
to the scientific skill with which its settlements have been established. 
Among the interesting developments of Pacific-Coast industry connected with the sea 
is the plant of the Tubbs Cordage Company, covering sixteen acres in the Potrero Nuevo 
district of San Francisco. This business began away back in 1S58, when Alfred L. and 
Iliram Tubbs united their energies for its upbuilding. The local demand for many years 
was largely supplied from these rope-walks, the first established on the coast, and equipped 

for the manufacture of all kinds of cordagr, :rsrti 

from the hemp of Manila, Sisal and New "^"^ 

Zealand. In the Tubb works 200 men and , _ 
boys are engaged, aided by ingenious hemp- 
spinning and other machines, whose patents 
are owned or controlled by the company. 
The Tubbs family are among the foremost 
representatives of the successful and conser- 
vative early settlers of California, and aie 
identified with many of its leading social and \ FrtAncisro tubbs cordage go 

commercial interests. Their industrial enterprise has been continuously successful. 

One of the great silk-mills of Belding Bros. & Co. has been established at San Fran- 
cisco, and controls a large trade on the Pacific Coast. 

San Bernardino is the capital of the largest county in the United States, much of whose 
area belongs to the hopeless Mohave Desert. The valley of 1,600 square miles near the 
shire-town brings forth abundantly of wine, grapes and oranges. Indio, below the sea-level, 
is celebrated for the astonishing cures of pulmonary troubles, wrought by its dry, pure air. 
The most recent development of settlement in California has taken place in the counties of 
Tulare and Fresno, in the southern part of the Great Valley, where ah enormous product 
of raisins is already being harvested. The United-States Census Bulletin of 1890 on Viticul- 
ture, estimates that tlic yearly California raisin-crop of five years hence will reach from 

8,000,000 to 10,000,000 boxes (of 20 pounds each). 
Tulare City, the metropolis of these two counties, stands 
on the Kaweah Delta, between the foot-hills and Tulare 
Lake, about midway between San Francisco and Los 
Angeles. The extensive irrigation-canals of Tulare and 
Fresno, and of the neighboring Kern County, are re- 
deeming vast areas of the richest soil, in an absolutely 
frostless climate. The development of this domain 
adds greatly to the capacity of California for bringing 
forth the pleasant fruits of the earth. 








SAN FRANCISCO: BELDING SILK FACTORY. 




" Colorado, rare Colo- 
rado! Yonder she rests; 
her head of gold pillowed 
on the Rocky Moun- 
tains, her feet in the 
brown grass, the bound- 
less plains for a play- 
ground; she is set on a 
hill before the world, 
and the air is very clear, 

so that all may see her well." — Joaquin Miller. 

The first American to enter Colorado was Lieut. 

Zebulon M. Pike, U. S. A., who led a military exploring 

party here in 1806, soon after the Government had 

purchased Louisiana and an indefinite western region 

from France. He was captured by Spanish troops and 

taken to Chihuahua. Pike's Peak, for many decades 

the beacon of western civilization, will forever perpetu- 
ate his memory; and Long's Peak similarly honors Maj. 

S. H. Long, who explored parts of Colorado in 1820. 

About the year 1840 Mexico made a grant of a vast 

area of land in the Las-Animas region, to Cols. Vigil 

and St. Vrain ; and a little later Bent established a 

trading-post on the Arkansas River. In 1844 Fremont 

explored North, Middle and South Parks, which were 

afterwards visited by a few French fur-traders. 

Colorado west of the Continental Divide belonged 

to Mexico, and was ceded to the United States in 1848, 

and became part of the new Territory of Utah. Colo- 
rado east of the Divide lay in the huge province of 

Louisiana, a part of New France, ceded to Spain in 

1763, restored to France in 1801, and sold to the United 

States in 1S03. From then until 181 2 it lay in Louisi- 
ana Territory ; after that in Missouri Territory ; and 

from 1854 in Nebraska and Kansas Territories. The region south of the Arkansas River 

belonged to the Republic of Texas from its foundation until it became merged in the 

United States, when part of it was annexed to New Mexico, and part to Kansas. 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at Conejos. 

Settled in 1840 

Founded by Mexicans. 

Admitted to the U. S., 

Population in iSbo, .... 34,277 

In 1870, 39,864 

In 1 880 194,327 

White, 191,126 

Colored, 3,20i 

American-born, 154.537 

Foreign-born, 39, 790 

Males, 129,131 

Females, 65,196 

In 1890 (census), 412,1 

Population to the square mile (1880) 1.9 

Voting Population, .... 

Vote for Harrison (1888), . 50,774 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), . 37,567 

State Debt 

Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . . . $189,000,000 

Banks, . . 

Deposits 

Savings Banks, 

Deposits, 

Area (square miles), . . . 

U. S. Representatives (1893), 

Militia (Disciplined), . . 

Coimties, 

Post-offices, 

Railroads (miles), .... 

Capital, 

Gross Yearly Earnings, . . 

Manufactures (3'early, 1880), $14,260,159 

Operati\'es 5,o74 

Yearly Wages, . . . $2,314,527 

Farm Land (acres, in 18S0), . 1,126,585 
Farm-Land Values, . $25,109,223 
Farm Products (yearly), . $5,000,000 

Colleges and Professional Schools, 

School -Population, 

School- At tendance, 

Newspapers, . . 

Latitude, 37°' to 41° N 

Longitude, .... 102" to 109° W. 

Temperature, .... — 37" to 105° 

Mean Temperature (Denver), 48° 

TEN CHTEF I'LACES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Denver 106,713 

Pueblo 24,5^8 

Leadville, 10,384 



103,925 



682 
4,291 



85,824 
35, S67 

27( 



Colorado Springs 
Trinidad, . . . 
Highlands (town). 

Aspen 

Boulder, . . . 
Bessemer (town). 
Canon City, . . 



11,140 
5.523 
5,161 
5,108 
3,330 
3.317 
2,825 



A'LVG'S HAND BOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




COLORADO SPRINGS, AND PIKE'S PEAK. 



As early as 1852, wandering Cherokees discov- 
ered gold near the foot-hills ; but it was not until 
185S that W. Green Russell's party of Georgians, 
and a company from Kansas, began to wash gold 
from the sands of the South Platte River. In 
INIay, 1859, John H. Gregory discovered gold at 
Black Hawk. When the news of these treasures 
of the mountains reached the East, a vast and 
tumultuous migration began across the untrodden 
plains, and the serene and lonely Pike's Peak became the magnet of thousands of brave 
adventurers. 

In 1861, in order to make up the new Territory of Colorado, nearly 70,000,000 acres 
were taken from Utah, New Mexico, Kansas and Nebraska, the foresight of Gov. Gilpin 
securing the western slope of the Rocky Mountains. The constitutions drafted in 1859 
and 1863 were rejected by the people; but in 1865 they adopted one, and Congress passed 
a bill admitting the Territory to the Union. President Johnson vetoed this document, and 
for eleven years longer the people remained under a Territorial government. When the 
late civil war broke out Colorado sent into the National army two regiments of cavalry, 
a regiment of infantry and a battery, besides raising consider- 
able forces for home-defence. Threatened by Confederates on 
one side and Indians on the other, many pioneers returned 
to the East, and ambitious cities vanished. Sibley's Confed- 
erate invasion of New Mexico, in 1861, had for its chief object 
an advance to the Platte Valley and the occupation of the forts 
as far north as Laramie. Thus the Pacific States would be 
cut away from the Republic, and the overland routes closed. 
This deadly peril was averted by the Colorado volunteers, 
who did not wait for the invaders to reach their country, but 
advanced into New Mexico, and met and checked the triumph- 
ant Confederates at La Glorietta (Apache Caiion). 

After the war a new tide of immigration flowed into the 
Territory, and developed its resources rapidly and securely. The " ^ peak. 

Ute Indians, formerly sole lords of the domain, were concentrated upon the W'hite-River, 
Uncompahgre and Southern Reservations, whence most of them have been removed to U.tah. 
The name Colorado is the past participle of the Spanish verb, colorar, " to color," with 
a secondary meaning of "ruddy" or "blushing"; and was originally applied by the 
Spaniards to the Colorado River, whose water is red in hue, when swollen by heavy rains, 
from the disintegration of the reddish soils through which it flows. A popular nickname 
of Colorado is The Centennial State, because it was admitted to the Union in the hun- 
dredth year after the signing of the Declaration of Independence. It is also called The 
Silver State. The older title of The Buffalo-Plains State is now meaningless, since the extinc- 
tion of the bison. The people living here used to be called Pike^s-Peakers. 

The Arms of Colorado include a shield, with 
a miner's pick and mallet crossed, and a range of 
snowy mountains. The motto is NiL Sine 
NUMINE, Latin words meaning : "Nothing with- 
out God." 

The Governors of Colorado have been : 

Territorial : Wm. Gilpin, 1 86 1 -2 ; John Evans, 

1862-5; Alex. Cummings, 1865-7; A. Cameron 

Hunt, 1867-9; Edward M. McCook, 1S69-73; 

LONG'S PEAK. Samucl II. Elbert, 1873-4; John L. Routt, 





THE STATE OE COLORADO. 



103 




SIERRA BLANCA. 



1S74-6; State: J. L. Routt, 1877-9 ; F. W. Pitkin, 1S79-83; 

Jas. B. Grant, 1883-5 ; Benj. H. Eaton, 1885-7; Alva Adams, 

1887-9 ; Job A. Cooper, 1889-91 ; and J. L. Routt, 1891-3. 

Geography, — Colorado covers an area equal to New Eng- 
land and Ohio combined. Its three chief divisions are the 

Plains, the Foot-hills, and the Rocky Mountains. The Great 

Plains ascend from Kansas to the Foot-hills, a vast open region of 

low ridges and valleys, and at a general height of 5,000 feet 

above the sea. Everywhere the face of the country is covered 

with gorgeous wild flowers ; and modern irrigating processes 

are converting it into a rich garden of agriculture. The 

Divide is a ridge 7,500 feet above the sea, running eastward 

from the Front Range, and separating the Platte and Arkansas 

waters. The Great Plains were originally treeless, save where 

belts of cottonwoods and aspens followed the courses of the 

rivers ; but since the advance of population hitherward, myriads of trees have been planted 

along the bare uplands. The Foot-hills run north and south, from 30 to 50 miles wide, with 

a height of from 6,500 to 8,000 feet, diversified and broken in their outlines, and generally 

abounding in timber and water. They contain many fertile valleys and grazing districts, 

and are rich in minerals, clays, and building stone. 

The Rocky Mountains form the Continental 
Divide, or water-shed, and traverse Colorado from 
north to south and southwest, with many tributary 
ranges. This magnificent labyrinth has two-score 
peaks of above 14,000 feet, and nearly 200 exceed- 
ing 13,000. For 150 miles north and south, from 
Gunnison to North Park, the mountain-mass is 120 
miles wide, and includes the Front, Park and Saguache 
Ranges. The Front Range is the eastern line of 
peaks, visible for scores of miles over the lonely 
plains toward the Mississippi, and forming a vast 
and impressive line of mountains, broken by several 

summits which over-tower the great wall. It is 120 miles long, beginning on the south at 

the famous Pike's Peak. The Ute, Loveland, Berthoud and Boulder Passes cross at high 

altitudes. Mounts Evans, Rosalie, and Torrey, and Gray's 

Peak (14,341 feet) and Long's Peak (14,271), are the signal 

points of this noble range ; and Mount Audubon, James 

Peak, the Arrapahoe Peaks and others are hardly less lofty. 

Pike's Peak (14,147 feet high) for many years gave its 

name to all Colorado. Its summit is reached by a long car- 
riage-road, and also by a mountain-railway, built in 1890; and 

is the seat of a station of the U. -S. Signal Service. The 

views from this point, and from the oft-ascended Gray's, 

Long's and other peaks, are of immense extent and amazing 

grandeur. Across the great elliptical bowls of the parks is the 

Park Range, running from beyond Hahn's Peak, in the north, 

south to the Arkansas Valley, and culminating around Mount 

Lincoln and Quandary Peak, of above 14,000 feet each, and 

surrounded by twenty other crests exceeding 13,000 feet. 

The Blue-River Range, twenty miles north, has a line of 

tremendous peaks, culminating in Mount Powell. 

The great continental water-shed between the Atlantic and gr^nd canon of the Arkansas. 




SULTAN MOUNTAIN. 




I04 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MOUNTAIN OF THE HOLY CROSS. 



Pacific follows the Front Range south to Gray's Peak, and then bends westward for 20 
miles, between Middle Park and South Park, including the Tennessee Pass (10,418 feet 
high), and then merging into the Saguache Range, the Colorado extension of the Sierra 
Madre of Mexico. This range has a height of above 13,000 feet for 80 miles, termi- 
nating on the north at the majestic Mountain of the Holy Cross. It is a vast mass of 

granite, nearly a score of miles broad. The Saguache is 
one of the loftiest and most conspicuous of the Rocky- 
Mountain ranges, and its dominating peaks exceed 14,000 
feet in height, rising in bristling groups around passes 
above 12,000 feet high. On the east is the rugged valley 
of the Arkansas ; and the Gunnison Valley opens away to 
the westward. The Mountain of the Holy Cross bears on 
its side two snow-filled ravines, cutting each other at right 
angles, and forming a vast cruciform deposit of glittering 
snow, visible from a great distance. The trappers and 
explorers of the early days gave its name to this noble 
mountain. Near Buena Vista rise the three college 
peaks, Harvard (14,375 feet), Yale (14,263) and Princeton 
(14,196). Between Holy Cross and Harvard, Mount Mas- 
sive, Mount Elbert and La-Plata Peak each rise above 
14,000 feet ; and 
Antero, Ouray and 
other peaks in the 
south also exceed this height. South of the 
Saguache, beyond the Marshall Pass, the Conti- 
nental Divide runs for 75 miles southwest over a 
plateau, by the Cochetopa Hills, and then rises 
into the Sierra San Juan, passing southeast to the 
San-Luis Park, with many peaks above 13,000 
/eet high. 

The Sangre-de-Cristo Range is almost a continuation of the Saguache, from which it 
is separated only by the Poncho Pass, 9,000 feet high. Its magnificent Sierra Blanca is 
the loftiest summit in the Rocky Mountains, reaching an altitude of 14,463 feet, in white 
granite pinnacles amid snow and ice. Beyond the Veta Pass, and continuous with the 
Sangre-de-Cristo, the Culebra Range descends into New Mexico, ending near Santa Fe. 
The high Raton Hills run eastward from the Culebra, along the New-Mexican line. A 

few leagues north a short range pushes out towards 
the plains, culminating in the majestic cones of the 
Spanish Peaks, long ago the landmarks for way- 
farers and caravans on the Santa-Fe trail. Else- 
where the Greenhorn Range shelters Pueblo ; the 
Rampart Range runs north from Pike's Peak ; and 
the Sierra Mojada (or Wet Mountains) runs north- 
east from the Huerfano River, including the Rosita 
and Silver-Cliff mining districts. The Uncompahgre 
Mountains in southwestern Colorado begin at the 
tremendous volcanic crest of Uncompahgre Peak 
(14,235 feet), and are prolonged by the Sierra La Plata, to the canons of the Rio Mancos. 
This wild region has ten summits of above 14,000 feet. The Elk Mountains run south- 
west 30 miles from the Saguache Range, a vast, confused and contorted volcanic upheaval 
of strata, with a lofty line of pinnacles ten leagues long. Among the most famous crests 
are Castlepeak (14,106 feet high), Maroon (14,000), Capitol (13,992), Snowmass (13,961), 




MIDDLE PARK. 




FREMONT PASS. 



THE STATE OF COLORADO. 



105 




GRAND-RIVER CANON. 



Whiterock (13,847), Sopris (12,972), and Gothic (12,491). A number of the minini^ towns 
are at great altitudes among the Rockies. Caribou's elevation is 9,905 feet ; (George- 
town's, 8,514; Leadville's, 10,247; and the Present-Help Mine (on Mount Lincoln), 
14,200. There are at least a dozen villages above the altitude of 10,000 feet, including 
Alma, Alicante, Fairplay, Kokomo, Mineral City, Montezuma, Montgomery, Summit Mines, 
Animas Forks, Irwin, Robinson, and Ruby Camp. 

The parks of Colorado are ancient lake-basins, walled in 
by stupendous mountain-ranges, and composed of beautiful 
undulating regions of dells and hillsides, with bright lakes 
and streams, shadowy woods, and a varied and abundant 
vegetation of forests, flowers and grasses. They run nearly 
the whole length of the State, just west of the Front Range, 
with an average width of 50 miles, and are separated from 
each other by high mountains. The wildest and least in- 
habited of these great sierra-girt valleys is North Park, 
whose 2, 500 square miles of wooded hill-sides and meadows 
of buffalo-grass and sage-brush lie alongside of the Continental 
Divide. The North Platte River takes its rise here, amid 
forests haunted by deer and antelopes, wolves and bears ; 
and Hows into ^VyominL,^ where part of North Park lies. 

Southward, across 
the. narrow and lofty 

Continental Divide, Middle Park covers 3,000 
square miles of pleasant vales and wooded hills, 
9,000 feet above the sea, and environed on three 
sides by magnificent snowy ranges, Long's Peak, 
Gray's Peak, and their lofty brethren. Middle 
Park forms Grand County, whose shire-town is 
on the shore of the deep Grand Lake, amid the 
frowning defiles of the Front Range. South 
Park, the most attractive of the series, is a lovely 
vale 40 miles long, walled in by the Rampart 
Range on the east and the snowy Park Range on the west, and watered by the silvery 
streams of the South Platte. This mountain-girt amphitheatre, with its wonderful variety 
and richness of scenery, is traversed by several railways and dotted with villages, mines and 
farms. Its average height is 9,000 feet above the sea. 
The San-Luis Park covers 9,400 square miles, 
walled in by the Sangre-de-Cristo and Culebra 
ranges on the east, and on the west by the Sierra 
San Juan. Here the Rio Grande del Norte lakes 
its rise, amid noble forests. The settlers arc Mexi- 
cans and New-Englanders. The northern part is 
called the Rincon, and has a broad lake and a 
savanna, fed by a score of mountain-torrents, and 
surrounded by leagues of peat. This upper and 
wider section of the park abounds in dead lakes Marshall pass 

and failing streams, and its sandy soil can be cultivated only under artificial irrigation. 
The Saguache, Carnero, La Garita and other streams pour their mountain-born waters 
into the San-Luis and other small lakes without outlets. 

The valley of the Grand and Gunnison rivers and Roaring Fork received their first 
•pioneers in 1880, trudging on the rude trail over the Rocky Mountains, and bearing 
their flour and provisions on their backs. Since then this vast area has developed 






io6 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 







m 




.^ 


ll 




-4b 


1 


1% '^'^ ^H 


1 


|I{11 




^9 






^Mw!^ 


wlittT 




oM 






oHm 


Ll'vAr 


'^|Mh 


1 


^^^ 




^^1 






^^7^ 




^ 



^IIMAS CANON 



greatly, having inexhaustible fields of coal, iron, lead, copper and silver, and large areas 
of rich soil. 

The rivers of Colorado are unnavigable torrents, flowing down out of the mountains, 
with flashing cascades and other beauties. Here the Platte, 
Arkansas, Rio Grande and Colorado are born, and the Repub- 
lican and Smoky-Hill Forks of the Kansas. On the east the 
waters are skillfully availed of for the irrigation of the otherwise 
arid plains. The North Platte gathers its waters from the Con- 
tinental Divide in North Park. The South Platte is born at 
Montgomery, on Buckskin Mountain, 11,176 feet high, and 
crosses the South Park, descending 6,000 feet before reaching 
Denver. The springs of the Arkansas are in the Tennessee 
Pass, and for scores of miles it flows like a silver thread at the 
bottom of a canon over a thousand feet deep, culminating at the 
Royal Gorge, near Canon City. The Arkansas flows across the 
Plains southeast for 500 miles in Colorado, receiving the waters 
of the Greenhorn, Huerfano, Apisha, Purgatory, Cimmaron, Fon- 
taine-qui-Bouille and fifty other streams. The Purgatory River 
traverses a wonderful caiion 50 miles long, with walls 800 to 
1,000 feet high, amid whose gloomy shadows (if tradition may be believed) an entire 
Spanish regiment was lost. The Rio Grande del Norte rises in the Sierra San-Juan, 
and flows east and south through the San-Luis Valley, and into New Mexico. Routt 

County, in the northwest, is traversed by the 
\'ampah River for lOO miles, rising in the Park 
]\.angc, and at last rushing through the dark 
\'ampah Canon, into Green River. Grand River 
llows from Middle Park 350 miles southwest 
through the weird Plateau country, receiving the 
Gunnison and Dolores, and then uniting with the 
Green River to form the Colorado of the West. 
White River lies between the Yampah and Grand, 
amid the singular and deeply interesting forma- 
tions of the City of the Gods and the Cathedral 
GARDEN OF THE GODS, AND pike's PEAK. Bluffs. The Anlmas, Maucos and other tributaries 

of the San Juan drain the chaotic mountains of southwestern Colorado into the Colorado 
River. In this remote region, along the Hovenweep and McElmo, are found the ruined 
houses and watch-towers of the long-extinct cliff-dwellers, driven 
ages ago to these holes in the precipice-walls by deadly enemies, 
Aztecs or Apaches. Some of the ruins are 700 feet long, con- 
structed of massive blocks of stone, or cut, with vast labor, from 
the live rock. 

Much of the finest scenery of the Atlantic slope of Colorado 
occurs in the wonderful canons which the streams have cut in the 
sides of the mountains, with perpendicular granite or sandstone 
walls. Boulder, Cheyenne, Clear-Creek, Grape-Creek and other 
canons are famous for their remarkable scenery, and the Grand 
Canon of the Arkansas is even more impressive and wonderful. 
West of the main range, the streams flow in the bottoms of yet 
more prodigious canons, with rock-walls half a mile or more 
high, generally nearly precipitous, and sometimes even overhang- 
ing their bases. The Black and Grand Canons of the Gunnison, 

, , . , -.- , , , , , . BU^CK CANON, AND CHIPETA 

the long gorge 01 the Uncompahgre, and the deep trench m falls. 





THE STATE OF COLORADO. 



107 




ROYAL GORGE. 



which the Rio Dolores flows, are remarkable for their extent and grandeur. High up 
among the sunlit peaks many crystalline lakes reflect the clear sky and the granite 
spires above them, and send their bright waters plunging and murmuring dowTi the rugged 
canons. Near Georgetown is the deep emerald expanse of 
Green Lake, with Clear Lake above it, and Elk Lake at the 
edge of the timber-line. Tlie Twin Lakes, 14 miles from 
Leadville, lie at the base of the lofty Mount Elbert, 9,357 
feet above the sea, and their unusual beauty has caused the 
erection of a settlement of summer-hotels and cottages on the 
shores. The five Evergreen Lakes mirror the huge sides of 
Mount Massive ; and the crag-bound Chicago Lakes spread 
their transparent waters high up near Mount Evans, the upper- 
most of them being 11,434 feet above the sea, and perpetually 
frozen. Palmer Lake, on the Divide, midway between Denver 
and Pueblo (7,238 feet high), has on its shore a pleasant 
health-resort village and sanitarium. 

Vast areas of white and yellow pine, hemlock and cedar 
still remain on the mountains. The abundant scrubby pinons 
and junipers of the foothills and plateaus are useful only as 
fuel. The ridges and mountains are covered with noble evergreen trees, up to 9,000 feet, 
and thin and distorted trees for 3,000 feet higher, or up to the timber-line, above which the 
peaks are bleak rocks, with slight patches of grass and alpine flowers. The wild animals 
of the highlands include bears, wolves, panthers, 
wildcats, antelopes, elk, deer, beaver, otter and 
wild fowl. On the plains millions of prairie-dogs ^^^ 
dwell, with deer, wolves, hares and other game, 
yearly dwindling away. 

The Climate of this great mountain-realm 
naturally has a wide diversity, from the high 
summer-heats of the plains to the perpetual snows 
of the main range. The east winds are damp and 
cold ; the west winds, though blowing across hun- 
dreds of leagues of snowy ranges, are warm and 
dry. As a rule, the nights are cool and (on the 
Atlantic slope) dewless, even when the days reach 90°. The foot-hills have hot summers, 
with cool nights, and mild winters, with snow seldom abiding long. The mean tempera- 
ture at Denver is, in winter, 30.3° ; spring, 48.7°; summer, 69.7°; and autumn, 50.7°. 
Changes are frequent and sharp, but the dryness of the air mitigates their severity. From 
November to March snow may come, and thence till the close of summer short rain- 
showers refresh the country. More than 300 days in each year are either clear or partly 
clear. From July to October the sky is bright and cloudless, and the air is pure, sweet and 
exhilarating. "An air more delicious to breathe cannot anywhere be found," says Bayard 

Taylor. This climate is favorable to health and vigor ; 
and the pleasant country of the foot-hills is a great 
and beneficent sanitarium, especially for sufferers from 
bronchial and pulmonary complaints. These diseases 
are arrested in the dry highland air ; and many Eastern 
people now enjoy good health in Colorado who would 
have died if they had remained in their old homes. 
It is necessary for most invalids to avoid high altitudes, 
and remain at the health-resorts below the line of 
7,000 feet. The electric air excites the nervous 




GREEN LAKE. 




io8 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




GLENWOOD SPRINGS. 



systems of newcomers to a high tension, producing a sort of intoxication of good health, 
with keen appetite, perfect digestion and sound sleep. The great highland sanitarium of 
Colorado is endowed very richly with medicated mineral and thermal springs, many of 
which are provided with hotels and bath-houses. The beautiful and salubrious city of 
Colorado Springs was founded in 1871, and is 6,000 feet above the sea, and ten miles east 
of Pike's Peak, with shielding mountain-walls on north, west and southwest, and a sea-like 
expanse of the plains opening on the east and south. This famous climatic health-resort 
illustrates its culture by the El-Paso and Colorado-Springs Clubs, the Country Club, the 
University Club, twelve churches, a choral union, the best of schools, a theatre, and an 
absolute prohibition of liquor sales. In the vicinity are those wonders of nature, the 
Cheyenne Canons ; Glen Eyrie, and 
Blair Athol, with their fantastic and 
bright-colored rocks ; the Garden of 
the Gods, with miles of weird and 
storm-worn pinnacles and towers of red 
sandstone, some of them above 3,000 
feet high, "a symphony in red and 
yellow ;" and Monument Park, crowded 
with sculptured rock-figures of great 
variety. Five miles nearer the moun- 
tains lies the famous health-resort of 
Manitou, with its soda, iron, seltzer and 
sulphur springs (like those of Ems), 
attracting 100,000 persons a year to 
the adjacent hotels. The caverns near Manitou contain great halls and corridors, adorned 
with stalactites ; and the canons and rock-sculptures all around afford continual interest. 
This sunny cove in the mountains lies at the mouth of the Ute Pass, in a wonderfully 
stimulating air. Idaho Springs rush from the base of Santa-Fe Mountain, near the head 
of the beautiful Clear-Creek Canon. There are both hot and cold waters, used in various 
forms of baths, and the analysis shows ingredients like those of the Carlsbad springs. 
This locality is much visited by consumptives, who find healing in the medicinal fountains, 
Caiion City, near the picturesque Grape-Creek Canon and the Royal Gorge of the Arkan- 
sas, has soda springs and hot springs. The Boulder saline water enjoys a large sale 
throughout America and Europe. There are valuable springs at Morrison, a fashionable 
mountain-resort 20 miles from Denver, and near Bear Cafion and the Garden of the 
Angels. Springdale, ten miles above Boulder, has tonic iron waters. The Haywood and 
Cottonwood Hot Springs, near Buena Vista, are visited by thousands of health-seekers. 
In the narrow Wagon-Wheel Gap, where the upper Rio Grande roars down through a 
palisaded cleft in the mountains, are hot and cold soda and sulphur springs, with a large 
hotel and bath-houses. The Soda Springs near Leadville are under the shadow of the 
Saguache Range. Poncho Hot Springs, near Salida, form a group of 55 sources of clear, 

odorless and tasteless water, with hotels and bath-houses 
and a great number of visitors. Pagosa Springs, between 
the Sierra San-Juan and the grassy plains of New Mex- 
ico, bubble up in a great rocky basin, and supply purga- 
tive alkaline waters of high medicinal value. They have 
a temperature of 140°; and the steam from the basin 
can be seen for miles, in cool weather. Glenwood 
Springs are ten in number, pouring out every minute 
8, 000 gallons of warm water, powerfully medicated, 
alkaline, saline, sulphurous and chalybeate, some of them 
PHANTOM CURVE. in hot vaporous caves near the Grand River, and others 




THE STATE OF COLORADO. 




WAGON-WHEEL QAP. 



provided with large bath-houses. Shaw's Magnetic 
Springs are near Ucl Norte. Trimble's Hot Springs 
and the Pinkerton Springs are near Durango. Estes 
Park, 60 miles from Denver, and 4 by 6 miles in 
area, is a beautiful pleasure-resort of the Colora- 
ilians, close to Long's Peak. Near the hotel a 
group of medicinal springs pour forth their healing 
waters. The Hot Sulphur Springs, six in number, 
boil out from the base of a cliff at the head of 
Troublesome Canon, in Middle Park, and are pro- 
vided with baths. Higher up in the mountains 
several soda springs pour out their effervescing waters. South Park contains a group of 
saline and alkaline springs, and also Hartzell's Hot Sulphur Springs. Steamboat Springs, 
in Routt County, form a group of eighty hot fountains, at the foot of the Park Range. 

Agriculture has not until lately assumed commanding proportions in Colorado, owing 
partly to insect pests, aridity of climate, and early and late frosts. The farmers have found 
out how to check the grasshoppers and other winged devourers. The aridity of the soil 
has been overcome by artificial irrigation, by whose aid over 
3,000,000 acres are now under profitable cultivation, with an 
area increasing every year. Thirty-five thousand miles of 
canals and ditches are now in operation, and $10,000,000 has 
been spent in their construction. One of these canals takes 
water from the Cache-a-la-Poudre River, and ca,rries it for 54 
miles over the dry plains of Larimer and Weld, irrigating 
120,000 acres. The canals running from the perennial moun- 
tain-streams are tapped by smaller lateral ditches leading to 
the higher slopes of the farms, and minor ditches reach the 
fields, which are in turn gridironed by plough furrows. When 
the land needs water, the gates of the laterals are opened and 
crystal streams flow down the field-ditches, and are admitted 
into the furrows by taking away a shovelful of earth from each 
one. In a brief hour the land is refreshed as from a prolonged 
soaking rain. The amount needed varies from 50 to 75 cubic 
feet an acre, for the season, costing less than $2 in all. The State is divided into five 
water divisions, each under a superintendent of irrigation ; and the divisions are sub-divided 
into water districts, each with a water commissioner. These officials, 
under the supervision of the State engineer, distribute the waters 
according to priority of rights. 

The farm-products even now exceed $12,000,000 a year, and 
include 3,000,000 bushels of wheat, making a very white and dry 
flour, 2,000,000 of oats, 1,500,000 of corn, 200,000 of barley, 
3,000,000 of potatoes, 400,000 tons of hay, $400,000 worth of 
dairy products, 500,000 pounds of honey, and all manner of vege- 
tables, grapes, berries, and hardy fruits. There are half a million 
apple-trees. Peaches flourish west of the mountains ; and part of 
the Arkansas Valley is famous for its watermelons and grapes. 
Alfalfa has become the leading farm-product, and is even crowding 
out wheat. The crop was 1,000 tons in 1880, 1,000,000 in 1888, 
and 3,000,000 in 18S9. It is a tenaciously hardy clover, with 
long tap-roots, and yields three cuttings a year, each of nearly two 
tons an acre. This enormous crop is all kept in the State, and 
fed to the live-stock, being the best of beef-producing foods. cathedral rock. 




CURRECANTI NEEDLE. 




KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




ALPINE PASS 



Timothy, orchard and bhie grass also produce three 
to four tons to the acre yearly. 

Stock-raising has long been a leading industry of 
Colorado, where domestic animals do not require 
shelter or feeding in winter, hovvbeit occasionally a 
severe season kills many range animals. The grasses 
are nutritious and abundant, and the cattle thrive on 
the dry natural hay. Latterly, the Great Plains have 
been occupied by the farmers, and the cattle, restricted 
to the poorest ranges, are moving elsewhere. Two 
thirds of the herds are on the farms, where agricul- 
tural and stock-raising interests are blended, as in the 
older States, and the animals are more carefully fed and looked after in winter. The quality 
of the cattle has been greatly improved by importing thoroughbreds and crossing Short 
Horns and Polled Anguses with the Texan animals. The 
number of cattle in the State exceeds 1,500,000. Sheep 
raising employs $5,000,000 capital. The drought of 1S80 
and the repeal of the ad-valorem duty on wool gave severe 
blows to this industry, but the flock-masters still count 
2,000,000 sheep, and send 10,000,000 pounds of wool to 
the Eastern markets yearly. 

Mining began with the discovery of gold placers, in 
1858, near Denver, and enormous profits have since been 
realized. The Small-Hopes mine paid $3,000,000 in two 
years; and many others reached an equal productiveness 
Placer-mining was succeeded in 1870 by hydraulic min 
ing, and this a few years later by the sulphurets and 
tellurides. The Ouray and San-Juan mines yield free- 
milling gold. West of 105° the vast mountains aie 
banded with veins of silver and lodes of gold, of incalcula 
ble value. From the rich chlorides of Silver Cliff to the 
great argentiferous mountains around Silverton, and from 
the native gold of Boulder to the fine copper of Unaweep, extend the great treasuries of 
the hills. The bullion production of Colorado has passed $300,000,000. In the five years, 
1880-1-2-3-4, it exceeded $100,000,000. The Leadville district in 1878-9-80-I-2, turned 
out $68,000,000 ; and little Gilpin County has yielded $32,000,000 in gold. Silver-mining 
was not much heeded during the golden age of Colorado, 
but now it is the second silver-producing State, and turns 
out four times as much silver as gold. There are 1,200 
stamps, forever hammering away at gold and silver ore, in 
the mining camps. The Leadville product holds above 
$12,000,000 a year, mainly in silver, and the smelters and 
roasters are kept busy with their rich carbonates of lead and 
silver. Upwards of $60,000,000 in ore is in sight at Lead- 
ville, and the miners profess to be discouraged "because 
they have to dig through four feet of solid silver to get down 
to the gold." The Aspen mines have sent out millions of 
dollars' worth of ore. The city of Aspen, with its 5,000 
inhabitants, five churches, electric lights and brick blocks, 
nestles in a cup-shaped valley 7,500 feet above the sea. 
Upwards of $50,000,000 worth of lead and $6,000,000 
worth of copper have come from the Colorado hills, almost 




LOOP NEAR GEORGETOWN. 




DOME ROOK. 



THE STATE OF COLORADO. 




ESTES PARK. 



entirely from gold and silver bearing ores. The lead exported reaches an average of over 
a thousand tons a week, mainly from the Leadville region. The iron of Colorado occurs 
mostly in hematite and magnetite ores, with 60 per cent, of metal, and covers great areas. 
It is stated by scientific explorers that Gunnison County alone has a supply of iron equal in 
extent to all that of Pennsylvania. 

The coal-fields cover 40,000 square miles, the seams averaging about five feet in thick- 
ness. The 50 working mines employ 5,400 men. The output of coal rose from 8,000 tons 
in 1869 to 2,400,000 at present. Much of the Colo- 
rado coal is bituminous, but large areas of pure 
anthracite have been opened near Glenwood 
Springs and New Castle. Lignite beds follow 
the eastern base of the mountains for 200 miles. 
Petroleum was discovered at Florence, just below 
the Grand Canon of the Arkansas, in 1882. There 
are 25 wells in that district, producing 140,000 
barrels of illuminants and 160,000 barrels of 
lubricants. 

Of late years large quarrying mdustries have 
arisen in the ridges outside the foot-hills. The Union Pacific Railroad has sandstone 
quarries at Lyons, and others in and around Stout. The Marble-Glen quarries, near Fort 
Collins, contain inexhaustible supplies. Sandstones are found in great variety, the white 
of Manitou, the red and white of Morrison, the pale green of Canon City, the pink and 
yellow of other localities, and the great quarries of Trinidad. Marble occurs in white, 
black, pink and variegated colors. Colorado City has an inexhaustible quarry of red 
sandstone ; Hancock and Pine Creek, gray granite ; Nathrop, lava ; Calumet, dolomite 
and marble; and Colorado Springs, gypsum, supplying the Rocky-Mountain district with 
plaster of Paris and cement. 

Government. — The Colorado State House at Denver is a handsome modern building 

of Gunnison granite. When completed 
it will have cost over $1,500,000. The 
State institutions include the Insane Asy- 
lum, at Pueblo ; the Institution for the 
Education of the Mute and the Blind, at 
Colorado Springs ; the State Reform 
School, at Golden ; and the Penitentiary, 
at Canon City. 

The public schools are of high grade 
and efficient organization. Nearly $4,000,- 
000 are invested in school property ; and 
the State holds 3,000,000 acres of school- 
lands, whose sale will afford a great educa- 
tional fund. The Normal School is at 
Greeley. The University of Colorado, endowed by Congress, the State and citizens of 
Boulder, was incorporated in i860, and opened at Boulder in 1877. It has 21 instructors 
and 31 collegiate students, besides 120 in other departments. The State School of Mines, 
at Golden, has 46 students. The Agricultural College, at Fort Collins, has 130 students. 
The Presbyterian College of the Southwest, at Del Norte, and Denver University (Meth- 
odist) have opened within ten years. Colorado College, at Colorado Springs, dates from 
1874. There are small medical schools at Denver and Boulder. The Rocky-Mountain 
University, of Denver, received incorporation in 1887, and has a successful medical college. 
The great Jesuit college, at North Denver, occupies a noble building, erected at a cost of 
$500,000. Wolfe Hall and Jarvis Hall are flourishing Episcopal schools at Denver. The 




IDAHO SPRINGS. 



KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THP: UNITED ST A TES. 




National Government maintains an Indian school at Grand Junction. The chief United- 
States military post in Colorado is Fort Logan, near Denver. The ancient border strong- 
hold of Fort Lyon was evacuated in 1S90. Fort Crawford is a garrisoned post near 
Montrose ; and Fort Lewis, near Durango, guards the Ute reservation. 

The Railways of Colorado are famous for their bold engineering, and their wonderful 

achievements in the passage of lofty mountains and 
unparalleled gorges. They have been built in 
advance of population, and the rapid growth of the 
State is in part due to their agency. Eight lines 
enter from the east ; five go into the mountains ; 
and one crosses the western border into Utah. The 
Union Pacific has 1,272 miles in the State. The Bur- 
lington & Missouri-River Railroad runs from Denver 
into Nebraska. The Chicago, Rock-Island & Pacific 
Railroad runs east to Kansas and beyond. The Mis- 
souri Pacific starts east from Pueblo. The Denver, 
Texas & Fort-Worth Railroad runs from Denver across the Pan Handle of Texas, and at 
Fort Worth meets the network of Texan railways. 

The Denver & Rio-Grande Railroad is peculiarly a Coloradian enterprise, with Denver 
and Espanola (near Santa Fe) as its termini, and many branches. This line crosses the Veta 
Pass and the San-Luis Park, turning north to Silverton. It traverses the „ • ^ 

famous Toltec Gorge, where the line is carried high along 
the face of a tremendous precipice, with the river foaming 
far below. Animas Cailon has also been penetrated by its 
locomotives. The line from Pueblo to Salt Lake-City is one 
of the most wonderful scenic routes in the world, and trav- 
erses the Grand Canon of the Arkansas, on rocky shelves 
far above the whirling waters. Ten miles of this track cost 
$1,400,000, being one of the most expensive sections of rail- 
way in the world. The workmen were suspended over the 
cliffs by ropes, while blasting the rock to get foot-hold. This route crosses the lofty Marshall 
Pass, with an almost spiral pathway of iron loops ascending through the continental surges 
of granite and snow ; and traverses the dark canons of the Gunnison and Uncompahgre, and 
the weird Book Plateaus. The Rio-Grande line crosses the Fremont Pass, 11,540 feet 
above the sea; the Tennessee Pass, 10,340; and the Marshall Pass, 10,560. Alpine Tunnel, 
11,623 feet above the sea, and 1,773 f^^*^ lo"g. is the loftiest railroad construction in North 
America. The perpetual snow-banks send their waters on one side to the Atlantic, and on 

the other to the Pacific. The line crosses the Sangre- 

de-Cristo Range, not far from Sierra Blanca, 

and on this stupendous ascent the road 

doubles sharply on itself again and again. 




DENVER : DENVER CLUB. 




climbing at the rate of over 216 feet to 
the mile. 

The Atchison, Topeka & Santa-Fe 
Railroad runs from Denver south to 
Pueblo, and thence east down the Ar- 
kansas Valley into Kansas. A southern 
extension branches off at La Junta, for Mexico and Southern California. The Colorado 
Midland runs from Colorado Springs over the Ute Pass into South Park, and crosses the 
Park Range, with superb views of the Saguache and Sangrc-de-Cristo Ranges. It then 
ascends to Leadville, and arduously climbs the Saguache Range, running for a long distance 
among the barren rocks above the timber-line. 



DENVER : HIGH SCHOOL. 



THE STATE OF COLORADO. 



"3 




BELOW FREMONT PASS. 



Chief Cities. — Denver was founded in 1858, on the South Platte River, 15 miles east 
of the mountains, and named for Gov. James W. Denver of Kansas. It slopes toward and 
views the Rocky Mountains, and is about a mile above the sea, with a rare, dry, clear and 
sunshiny air, and park-like shadowy streets, lined with fine public buildings. Denver is an 
important railway junction, and the commercial metropolis and trading centre for a vast 
area ; and has many factories, the best of artesian well-water, and scientific sewerage. The 
view from its upper parts includes a superb crescent of purple and white mountains, mmc 
than 200 miles long, from Pike's Peak, in the 
south, to beyond Long's Peak, in the north. 

Leadville, the foremost carbonate mining- 
camp in the world, stands on the Rocky Moun- 
tains, nearlj' two miles above the sea-levcl. 
From 1S59 to 1864 it bore the name of Cali- 
fornia Gulch, and yielded $1,000,000 a year in 
gold dust. After this it was nearly abandoned, 
until 1876, when the great beds of silver carbon- 
ate were unearthed. 

Pueblo is one of the chief cities of Colorado, 
surrounded by leagues of rich farms, with an 
admirable climate, and but 40 or 50 miles by a down grade from the mountains, which con- 
tain inexhaustible quantities of coal and minerals. It is "the Pittsburgh of the West," 
the key of southern Colorado, the meeting point of numerous railways, and humming with 
steel-works, foundries, lead-works, nail-works and rolling-mills. Glenwood Springs is the 
supply-point and railway-centre of the Grand River Valley, with iron and coal mines, 
water-works, electric lights, and two daily papers. It is 5) 200 feet above the sea-level. 

Among other Colorado towns are Fort Collins and Greeley, on the wheat-growing plains ; 
Trinidad, in the south, with important iron manufactures ; Golden and Boulder and Cafion 
City, with their mines, manufactures and schools ; Central, the seat of gold-mines ; and the 
active mining-camps of the Rocky Mountains, Gunnison, Ouray, Breckenridge, Salida, Sil- 
verton and others. 

If the pioneer gold-hunters of a generation ago should revisit the plains of Denver, in 
their day so lonely and desolate, they would find matter for wonder and amazement in the 
splendid modern metropolis which has risen here, face to face with the Titantic wall of the 
Rocky Mountains. Nothing would cause them more surprise than the new Broadway 
Theatre, a great fire-proof building, admirable in its lines of view and acoustic properties, 
rich in scenery, and perfect in mechanical arrangements, with a stage of steel and terra cotta, 
the most comfortable and luxurious of furnishings, and an asbestos curtain. 

The Hotel Metropole in Denver adjoins the Broadway 
Theatre and is part of the same great pile of buildings, 
beautiful in architecture and massive in construction. It 
is conducted on the European plan, and was opened in 
1891, with 130 guest-rooms, and a series of public apart- 
ments that would do credit to London or Paris. The wig- 
wams of the old frontier days have vanished forever, with 
the era of "revolvers and canned fruit " ; and the traveler 
from the East, West, North and South may rest here at 
the new Metropole amid all the luxuries of the nineteenth 
century, and in a hostelry as uninflammable as Pike's Peak. 

Finance. — The first bank in Colorado was opened 
in 1862 ; and in 1 865 the First National Bank of Denver 
came into existence. The Denver Clearing-House Associa- 
tion contains eleven banks, and its yearly clearings reach 




Denver: Broadway theatre and 
metropole hotel. 



114 




DENVER : FIRST NATIONAL BANK. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



$220,000,000. The First National Bank does the heaviest 
business of all, and has achieved a remarkable success in build- 
ing up a general banking business. It is one of the United-States 
depositories ; and has a combined capital and surplusof $1,000, - 
000. The magnificent building of this institution stands in the 
heart of Denver, and is very thoroughly equipped and appointed, 
and richly decorated. The safe-deposit vaults underneath are 
invincible by fire or burglars, and contain great treasures. The 
First National Bank finds a valuable business in individual and 
firm accounts, collections, country-bank accounts, and the 
advancement of the interests of correspondents. 

Smelting is the greatest mechanical industry of Colorado, 
whose precious yellow and white metals have passed into the 
bullion currency of the country to the extent of hundreds of 
millions of dollars. Denver is one of the foremost manufac- 




DENVER : OMAHA &. GRANT SMELTING WORKS. 



turers of the precious metals in the world, and the rivers of gold and silver continuously 
flowing from her furnaces practically irrigate the commercial channels of the nation. The 
scientific processes of smelting have made great advances during the last quarter of a century, 
and their high success has stimulated mining industries in all parts of the country. Upwards 
of $ I o, 000, 000 are invested in the smelters of Denver. 
The Omaha & Grant Smelting and Refining Com- 
pany resulted from a combination of the Omaha 
Smelting Company, of Omaha and Denver, with the 
Grant Smelting Company originally founded at Lead- 
ville in 1878 by ex-Gov. James B. Grant. The 
works at Denver cover nearly fifty acres and employ 
500 men, their 35 immense roasting, calcining and 
fusing furnaces consuming daily 400 tons of ores, 
from the Rocky-Mountain and Pacific States and 
Mexico. The yearly product of these works and of 
the larger and older furnaces belonging to the same 
company at Omaha, exceeds $15,000,000 in gold and 
silver, copper and lead. The capital of the Omaha & Grant is $2,500,000. It is the largest 
establishment of its kind in the world. Guy C. Barton is its president ; James B. Grant, 
vice-president ; and W. H. James, superintendent. 

The Boston & Colorado Smelting Company has extensive works at Argo, near Denver, 
and is devoted to the smelting of gold, silver and copper ores in reverberatory furnaces, 
and the application of the Ziervogel process to silver "matte." The company was founded 
in 1867 by Nathaniel P. Hill, professor of chemistry at Brown University, who came to this 
region in 1864 to make a report on its mines, for certain eastern capitalists. The works 
were removed from Black Hawk to Denver in 1879. They have enjoyed a constantly 

increasing patronage, and their output of the preci- 
ous metals already exceeds $65,000,000. Mr. 
Hill has represented Colorado in the U. -S. Senate, 
with great efficiency, especially in the debates on 
irrigation, the silver question, deep-water harbors 
in Texas, the removal of theUte Indians, the wool 
tariff and the postal telegraph. His introduction 
of the first successful method of treating refractory 
ores has been worth scores of millions of dollars 
to Colorado, and has added greatly to the wealth 
DENVER KhWiQ) : BosT. & COLO. SMELTING WORKS. of the United States. 




THE STATE OF COLORADO. 



115 




DENVER, AND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

The Colorado Coal & Iron Company, one of the foremost of the industries of the West, 
was the outgrowth of the researches of Gen. Wm. J. Palmer, who was one of the first (as 
well as one of the most careful and thorough) prospectors of Colorado. The company 
acquired extensive fields of the best coking, steam and domestic coal ; the richest hematite, 
magnetic and Bessemer iron ores ; valuable oil lands ; and favorably located town-sites and 
agricultural lands. It also has operated its mines and erected furnaces, rolling-mills and 
steel-works. Its coke is conceded to be of superior quality. Its steel rails have been found 
the equal of any, after being very thoroughly tested by various roads ; and its iron pipe, 
spikes and merchant iron find ready sale. The furnaces, and steel and other mills are 
located at Pueblo, the second city in Colorado, advantageously situated as a railroad centre, 
and surrounded by a large area of land admirably adapted to agriculture, and supplied with 
irrigation by the Bessemer Ditch, now opened, mainly through the efforts of the Colorado 
Coal & Iron Co. Pueblo, already a large manufacturing centre, is growing in a substantial 
manner. It has a population of about 35,000, with the usual evidences of modern progress, 
water-works, electric lights, and electric cars. Its new Opera House, erected from plans of 
Adler & Sullivan, the architects of the great Chicago Auditorium, is one of the finest struc- 
tures of this character in the West. The new buildings that have been erected within the 
past few years give the city a vigorous and flourishing character. The Colorado Coal & Iron 
Company own large tracts about the city suitable for agricultural or manufacturing pur- 
poses, and have been instrumental in bringing many of the smelters and other business con- 
cerns here, by a liberal and wise course in that direction. During the year 1890 the company 
sold land to the value of over $1,000,000 ; it mined 800,000 tons of coal ; and made 120,000 
tons of coke, 42,000 tons of pig iron, and 25,000 tons of steel rails. Its gross earnings, ex- 
clusive of sales of real estate, were $2,840,000. Its capital is $10,000,000, and its bonded 
debt is $3,500,000; and its rapidly increasing sinking-fund already reaches $345,000. The 
mineral development of Colorado has been greatly advanced by this enterprising company. 
The geological history of the West is concerned mainly with the gradual upheaval of the 

great continental mountain-range from be- 
neath the sea. Beginning with the emer- 
gence of the Sierra Madre from the waste 
I if waves, this uplifting of the land ad- 
\ anced northward ; and the Sierra" San 
|uan of Colorado is probably the most 
ancient section of firm ground on this 
side of the Republic. Later, the other 
ranges slowly appeared above the sea, 
the Sangre-de-Cristo and Sierra Mojada, 
and finally the Front Range. For ages 







PUEDLO : COLORADO COAL 4 IRON CO. 



ii6 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNJ7'ED STATES. 




PUEBLO : UNION RAILWAY DEPOT. 



the ocean beat against the steep western de- 
clivities ; and the more gradual eastern slopes 
were formed by the deposits washed down from 
the peaks into the shallow waters on that side. 
The mountain-walls encircled many lakes of 
salt water, which finally drained off through' 
the canons, leaving the broad basins of the 
parks, for the homes of the coming empire. 
"Colorado is the flower of a peculiarly western civilization, in which is mingled the best 
blood of the North and the South, the virile sap of New England and the Carolinas — a 
truly American State." 

The growth of Denver in population and in influence has been one of the most remark- 
able instances of the great Western development. Well-known public men have predicted 
that the fourth city of the New World will occupy this locality, inside of a century. The 
first governor of Colorado, William Gilpin, used to say that he came into these remote soli- 
tudes to "found an empire;" and claimed for the country the distinction of "straddling the 
axis of the temperate zone." The highlands near Denver, now being occupied by bright 
suburban villages and public institutions, command on the east a prospect over boundless 
expanses of prairie, and on the west a sublime panorama of mountains. 




m^ 



'^' 



PUEBLO ; GRAND OPERA HOUSE. 



"A drive of twelve miles brings us to the Grand Caiion of the Ar- 
kansas. Disappointment is bitter, and feelings of 
resentment almost beyond control, as nowhere can 
the eye discover the cafion. In the immediate fore- 
ground the pinon growth is rank and dense; just 
beyond, great bleak ridges of bare, cold rock contrast 
strongly with the profusion of foliage hiding every 
thing beneath from sight, while away in the dim dis- 
tance the snow-crowned peaks of the continental 
divide are outlined sharp and clear against the solid 
blue of the morning sky. Though grand beyond anything we have seen, in amazing extent 
of vision, the mind is so wrapped up in the anticipation of full realization of the gloom, and 
vastness, and solemn grandeur of the Grand Canon, as to resent almost angrily their ap- 
parent absence. A half dozen steps from the clump of pinon trees, where the horses have 
been fastened, and all thoughts of resentment, of disappointment and chagrin vanish, and 
a cry of absolute terror escapes us. At our very feet is the caiion — another step would 
hurl us into eternity. Shuddering, we peer down the awful slopes ; fascinated, we steal a 
little nearer to circumvent a mountain that has rolled into the chasm, and at last the eye 
reaches down the sharp incline 3,000 feet to the bed of the river, the 
impetuous Arkansas, 40 to 60 feet in width, yet to us a mere ribbon of 
molten silver. Though surging madly against its rocky sides, leap- 
ing wildly over gigantic masses of rock and hoarsely murmuring 
against its imprisonment within these lofty walls, it finds no avenue of 
escape. Every portion of these marble bastions is as smooth as if 
polished, and as stationary as the mighty walls that look down upon 
them from such fearful height." Turning from this awful gorge to 
the equally astonishing chasms beyond the Continental Divide, the 
antiquary finds there the silent and unrevealing vestiges of a lost peo- 
ple. Over three centuries ago the Spaniards found these same ruins, 
just as now, the houses hewn from the solid rock of the mesas and 
CANON ON THE cllffs, and the other architectural constructions concerning whose 

SAGUACHE. builders and occupants even tradition is silent. 






H15T0R Y. 

The little Commonwealth 
of Connecticut, nestling be- 
tween New York, Massa- 
chusetts and Rhode Island, 
with Long -Island Sound 
and a glimpse of the open sea 
on the south, holds a proud 
place among the American 
States, by reason of the gen- 
eral high cultivation of her people, and the wonderful in- 
genuity of her inventors and mechanics. This rich and 
happy Christian community has risen in a land once drenched 
with savage blood, and its peaceful industrial villages have 
replaced the wigwams of warring red men. The Indians 
of pre-historic Connecticut numbered fewer than 20,0(X). 
All the Connecticut tribes were tributaries of the warlike 
Mohawks, of New York, whose envoys made yearly tours 
through their domains, collecting tribute and promulgating 
the edicts of the Five Nations. About the year 1600 a 
clan of the New- York Mohicans cut their way through these 
vassal villages, and settled near the Mystic River, whence 
they waged almost perpetual warfare upon the Narragan- 
setts, and ground down the local tribes. This was the cele- 
brated Pequot tribe, numbering 700 brave warriors, under 
the lead of the Sachem Sassacus. The Dutch purchased 
the land from the lawful Pequot authorities, and the Massa- 
chusetts colonists also secured from Sassacus permission to 
trade and settle here. Sir Harry Vane sent Endicott to 
fight the Pequots, with little result ; and in 1637 Con- 
necticut despatched Capt. John Mason against them, 
with ninety Englishmen, aided by Uncas and 70 In- 
dians. In a long battle near Groton, the tribal power was 
broken, and 500 of the savages lost their lives. A remnant 
of the Mohegan tribe still holds a reservation on Massapeag 
Mountain (or Mohegan Hill), below Norwich, overlooking the Thames, where every Sep- 
tember they have a festival, in a wigwam of forest-boughs, set off with succotash, yokeag, 
baked quahaugs and other Indian delicacies. The first European explorer hereabouts w?s 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at Windsor. 

Settled in 1633 

Founded by Massachusetts mes. 
One of the original 13 States. 
Population, in i860, . . . 460,147 

In 1870, 537.454 

In 1S80, 622,700 

White 610,769 

Colored Iii93i 

American-born, . 492,708 

Foreign-born 129,992 

Males, 305,782 

Females 316,900 

In i8qo (census), .... 746,258 
population to the square mile, 128.5 
Voting Population (1880), . 177,291 
Vote for Harrison {1888), . 74,584 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 74,920 
Net State Debt (1890), . $1,239,752 
Real Property, . . . $244,000,000 
Personal Property, . . $105,000,000 

Banks, 93 

Savmgs Banks 86 

Deposits, .... $112,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 4,990 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 4 

Militia (Disciplined), . . . 2,857 
Counties, . . .... 8 

Cities, 12 

Towns, 160 

Post-offices, 499 

Railroads (miles), .... 1,007 

Capital, ..... $65,000,000 

Gross Yearly Earnings, $2o,ooo,oco 

Manufactures (yearly), $186,000,000 

Operatives 116,000 

Farm Land (in acres), . 2,400,000 
Farm Population, . . . 44,000 
Farm Values, . . . $135,000,000 
Farm Products (yearly), $18,000,000 

Colleges, 3 

Public Schools, .... i,6;o 
School Children, .... 135,000 

Newspapers 182 

Temperature — 14° to 100° 

Mean Temperature (New 
Haven), 49° 

TEN CHIKF CITIKS AND THEIR POPL 

LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

New Haven, 81,298 

Harttord, 53,230 

Bridgeport, .... . . 48,866 

VVaterbury 28,646 

Meriden, 21,652 

New Britain, 19,007 

Norwalk, >7,747 

Danbury, 16,552 

Norwich, . 16,156 

Stamford, 15,700 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STAI'ES. 




HARTFORD : THE CHARTER OAK. 



Adriaen Blok, a gallant Hollander, who in 1614 sailed alor^ the 
coast in the Onrttst (^Restless), and ascended the Connecticut River 
above the site of Hartford. The Dutch skippers named the 
Connecticut the Varsche (or Fresh) River. They took posses- 
sion of the country, by right of discovery ; and in 1623 erected 
a trading-post, called the House of Hope, at Hartford. The 
pioneer English settlers were men of the Plymouth colony, who, 
in 1633, sailed up the Connecticut and established and garri- 
soned a trading-post at Windsor. Soon afterwards, sundry dis- 
affected pastors and people of the Massachusetts towns of Dor- 
chester, Cambridge and Watertown marched overland to Connecticut. Watertown occupied 
the site of Wethersfield, early in 1635 ; Dorchester settled near the Plymouth fort, at Wind- 
sor ; and Cambridge colonized Hartford. Meantime, the Earl of Warwick had granted this 
domain to Viscount Say and Sele, and others; and John Winthrop, Jr., erected a fort at 
the mouth of the Connecticut, where he beat off a Dutch naval expedition. Another colony, 
composed largely of Yorkshire Puritans, and led by the Rev. John Davenport and Theoph- 
ilus Eaton, both of London, reached Boston in 1637. Finding Massachusetts unpromising 
as a place for settlement, in the following year they founded New Haven. Soon afterwards, 
a Kentish colony settled at Menunkatuck (Guilford) ; and men of Hertfordshire occupied 
Wapoweage (Milford). These, with Stamford, Bran- 
ford, and Southold (Long Island), made up the Com- 
monwealth of New Haven. The new colony repre- 
sented extreme ecclesiastical forms and influences ; but 
after a long fight for existence, it united with the Con- 
necticut (or Hartford) colony in 1662. Stonington, 
Enfield, Sufiield and Woodstock were for many years 
Massachusetts towns. The boundary agreed upon in 
1 664 ran north-northwest from Mamaroneck, and crossed 
the Hlidson at West Point, leaving Newburgh, Pough- 
keepsie and Kingston in Connecticut. The greater part 
of Long Island, the natural sea-wall of Connecticut, was 
ceded to the English by Captain-General Peter Stuy- 
vesant, in 1650. In 1674 the King of England annexed it to the Province of New York, 
then pertaining to the Duke of York, to whom he gave also all of Connecticut as far as 
the river. The latter assignment was successfully resisted by the Connecticut government ; 
but Long Island passed away forever from its rightful owners. 

The Connecticut charter, adopted in 1639, was the earliest complete code of civil order 
written in America, and embodied for the first time the free representative plan which is 
still paramount in the States and the Republic. By its provisions, the people stood. indepen- 
dent, and the supreme power was the Commonwealth. The colony received from King Charles 
II., in 1662, a liberal charter, riving it practical self-government. James II. labored stren- 
uously to vacate all the New-England charters; and in 1687 Sir Edmund Andros came to 

Hartford, with sixty soldiers, the Assembly being in 
session, and demanded the charter of Connecticut. The 
precious document was laid on the table, in the pres- 
ence of the Assembly and Andros, when suddenly the 
lights were extinguished, and Capt. Wadsworth, seizing 
the charter, cautiously withdrew and secreted it in a 
hollow tree,- so that the King and his men never got 
hold of this palladium of liberty. The tree was there- 
after known and honored as the Charter Oak, and re- 
REDD.NG : PUTNAM PARK. rained Standing until 1856, when it was blown down. 




NEW HAVEN : JUDGES' CAVE. 




THE STATE OF CONNECTTCUT. 



119. 



■M^ ^ 




!K^ 


^^^S^- '^ 




K 






I^S 






R 



WEST HARTFORD : 
NOAH WEBSTER'S BIRTHPLACE. 



A marble tablet commemorates its site. After the de- 
thronement of James II., the colonial government contin- 
ued in its quasi-independent way ; and the charter given 
by Charles II. remained unaltered until i8l8. This gen- 
erous document confirmed to Connecticut "the soil from 
Narragansett Bay on the east to the South Sea on the 
west," being a belt seventy miles wide across the conti- 
nent, including parts of New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, 
Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Iowa, Nebraska, Wyoming, 
Colorado, Utah, Nevada, and California. Most of this 
domain was given up, as interfering with other colonial 
grants ; and the proceeds of the remainder formed the basis of the present school-tund of the 
State. The venerable charter of Charles II. is sacredly preserved in the Capitol, in a frame 
made from the wood of the Charter Oak. 

The so-called Blue Laws were a libellous production by a hostile writer (the Rev. Samuel 
Peters), and had no adequate foundation in fact. The early jurisprudence of the colony, 
though touched by the spirit of the time, was to the full as lenient and humane as that of 
any other New-England commonwealth, and much kindlier than that of England. 

The delegates of Connecticut stood among the first to propose in Congress a declaration 
of independence from England. When the Revolution broke out, Jonathan Trumbull, a 
warm patriot and level-headed man, held the governorship ; and his advice was so valued 

by General Washington, who often suggested con- 
sultation with ' ' Brother Jonathan, " that this familiar 
nickname came to be representative of American 
manhood, and ultimately of the Nation itself. Con- 
necticut troops joined in the capture of Fort Ticoii- 
deroga, and fired deadly volleys from the rail-fence 
DU Bunker Hill ; and 4,000 marched to the relief of 
ISoston, in April, 1775. Of Washington's array of 
17,000 men around New York, 9,000 were from 
Connecticut. In 1777 Gov. Tryon and 2,000 British 
infantry captured Danbury, but suffered severely in 
the retreat. Two years later, Tryon and 3,000 British soldiers plundered New Haven, and 
destroyed Fairfield and Norwalk, losing 300 men. In 1781 Benedict Arnold, the traitor, 
stormed Fort Griswold, and burned New London. Connecticut sent 31,939 soldiers into the 
Continental army. Washington, in general orders, praised "the soldier-like and veteran 
appearance, cleanliness and steadiness of the Connecticut troops." 

After Connecticut had become fairly peopled, largely by migration east and west from 
the valley, new swarms went out from the colony, and settled the Hadley and Amherst re- 
gion in Massachusetts, and great areas of New York and Vermont. The Genesee country 
of New York, and the Western Reserve of Ohio (anciently called Xeiu Coiiiwcticut), were 
largely peopled from this State. 

At the outbreak of the late civil war the militia system of Connecticut 
was not efficient. But during the conflict the State sent into the army 
55,864 volunteers, out of 80,000 voters, organized into twenty-eight reg- 
iments of infantry, two regiments and three batteries of artillery, 
and one regiment and one squadron of cavalry. Of these, 1,902 men 
were killed in battle, and4, 7 19 men died of disease, or were missing. 
Among the interesting memorials of ancient days, besides the 
churches and mansions in the gray old towns along the Sound 
and the Connecticut Valley, are several notable public monuments. 
Nathan Hale, the patriot spy of the Revolution, is honored by a sharon ; soldiers' monument. 




MILFORD : STONE BRIDGE. 




120 



A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




BROOKLYN : PUTNAM STATUE. 



lofty granite pyramid in South Coventry, bearing his dying words : 

"I only regret that I have but one life to lose for my country." 

There is also a statue of Hale in the State-House. A granite 

obelisk on the heights of Groton commemorates the brave garrison 

of Fort Griswold, massacred by British troops, after a hard battle, 

in 1781. In Redding, near the ruined barracks of Putnam's division 

of the Continental Army, in 1778-79, the State has erected a lofty 

obelisk, and has reserved the camp-ground as a State park. This 

is the only remaining cantonment of the armies of the Revolution, 

and near it stands the venerable Christ Church. The remains of 

the brave Gen. Israel Putnam lie at Brooklyn, Connecticut, under 

a monument erected in 1888 by the State, and crowned by an eques- 
trian statue of the hero. A bronze statue of Capt. John Mason was 

erected in 1889 on Pequot Hill, near Mystic, where that brave 

officer broke the power of the Pequot tribe. From this point the view reaches three States, 

15 towns, 20 islands, and seven lighthouses. In 1889 Milford erected a memorial stone 

bridge over her river, guarded at one end by a round tower roofed with Spanish tiles, 

and bearing below its parapets the names of the founders of the town. There are scores of 

monuments in commemoration of the soldiers of 
the late civil war, from the magnificent Arch at 
Hartford and the lofty shaft on East Rock, New 
Haven, crowned with a colossal Angel of Peace, 
and surrounded by bronze statues and reliefs, to the 
simpler monuments on many a quiet village-green. 
The Soldiers' Memorial Arch, at Hartford, was de- 
signed by George Keller, and erected in 1886, at a 
cost of !|6o,ooo. It stands on the bridge in Bush- 
nell Park, and is flanked by massive round towers 
more than 100 feet high, with conical roofs. Above 

the archway a sculptured frieze of terra-cotta statuary, seven feet high, runs around the 

entire monument, representing "The Story of the War," and "The Return of the Army." 




HARTFORD BRIDGE AND ME^ C P AL ARC h 



The soldiers' monument at Winchester is a tall square tower, crowned 
statue of Victory ; and Winsted commemorates its heroes by a feudal watch- 
granite, 63 feet high, with a colossal bronze soldier on the top, holding 
commemorative of the patriotic heroism of the volunteers. 

The Name of the State is an Algonquin compound word, Qmiineh- 
tiikqut, meaning "The Land on a Long Tidal River." The Land of 
Steady Habits is a pet name given to Connecticut, by reason, peihaps, 
of the settled customs and sobriety of its people. It is also called The 
Freestone State, in allusion to a leading product ; and The Nutmeg 
State, because of the old fable that its travelling traders used to sell 
nutmegs made of wood to their patrons of the Middle States. 

The State Seal was given by George Fenwick, Governor of 
Saybrook, about the year 1644. It bears three vines (Hartford, 
Windsor and Wethersfield), on a white field, symbolizing the 
colonies brought over and planted in the wilderness ; and the 
motto. Qui traiisttdit sustiiut, expresses faith that He who 
brought over the vines continues to take care of them. 

The State Governors were: Jonathan Trumbull, 1769- 
84; Matthew Griswold, 1784-6; Samuel Huntington, 1786-96; 
Oliver Wolcott, 1796-7; Jonathan Trumbull, 1797-1809; John 
Treadwell, 1809-II; Roger Griswold, 1811-12; John Cotton 



by a bronze 
tower, of 
a flag, as 




NEW HAVEN : SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS' 
MONUMENT, ON EAST ROCK. 



THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 




CONNECTICUT RIVER, NEAR HADDAM. 



Smith, 1S12-17; Oliver Wolcott, 1817-27; Gid- 
eon Tomlinson, 1827-31 ; John S. Peters, 1831-3; 
I lenryWaggamanEdwards, 1833-4, 1835-8; Sam- 
icl Augustus Foot, 1834-5; William Walcott Ells- 
worth, 1838-42; Chauncey F. Cleveland, 1 842-4; 
Ivoger Sherman Baldwin, 1844-6; Isaac Toucey, 
1S46-7; Clark Bissell, 1 847-9; Joseph Trumbull, 
1849-50; Thomas Hart Seymour, 1850-3; C. H. 
Pond (acting), 1853-4; Henry Button, 1854-5; 
William Thomas Minor, 1855-7; Alex. H. Holley, 
1857-8; William Alfred Buckingham, 1858-66; 
Joseph Roswell Hawley, 1866-7; James E. English, 1867-9, ^"d 1870-1 ; Marshall Jewell, 
1869-70, and 1 87 1-3 ; Charles R. IngersoU, 1873-7 ; Richard D. Hubbard, 1877-9 ; Charles 
*. Andrews, 1879-81; Hobart B. Bigelow, 1881-3; Thomas M. Waller, 1 883-5 ; Henry 
B. Harrison, 1885-7; Phineas C. Lounsbury, 1887-9; and Morgan G. Bulkeley, 1889-93. 
The Topography of the State deals mainly with the valleys of streams emptying into 
Long-Island Sound. The northern border is 88 miles long ; the southern border, 100 miles ; 
the eastern boundary, 45 miles ; and the western, 72 miles. The beautiful Connecticut 
River divides it into two nearly equal parts, the old Pequot country, on the east, with its 
low hills and broken vales, and thin population ; and the western counties, including three 
fourths of the inhabitants, and with many prosperous manufacturing places. The chief 
valley of the east is that of the Thames, a navigable estuary fifteen miles long, entering the 
Sound at New London. The Connecticut is the largest river of New England, being over 
400 miles long. Vessels drawing ten feet reach Middletown, and those drawing eight feet 
go up as far as Hartford. The chief river of the west is the Housatonic, 1 50 miles long, 
rising in the Berkshire Hills, and flowing through a picturesque highland region. The 
Farmington River enters the Connecticut above Hartford, traversing a rich and lovely valley, 
in a course of singular sinuosity. 

There is a fine line of hills following the Housatonic River, reaching its chief altitude at 
Bear Mountain, in Salisbury, 2,354 feet high, and the loftiest peak in Connecticut. Other 
summits in this beautiful region are Bald Peak (1,966 feet), Mt. Bradford (1,960 feet), Mo- 
hawk Mountain (1,680), and Ivy Mountain (1,642). Farther east is a continuation of the 
Green Mountains of Vermont, ending with East Rock and West Rock, abrupt and pic- 
turesque eminences about 400 feet high, near New Haven, the one crowned by a lofty sol- 
diers' monument, and the other made sacred by the Judges' Cave, where two of the Regicides 
found shelter in early colonial days. The Mount-Tom range, of Massachusetts, sinks away 
in the Blue Hills of Southington. The chief range east of the Connecticut River runs from 
Lyme northward to Bald Mountain, in Stafford, and thence into Massachusetts, a line of 
granitic summits, marking the water-shed between the Connecticut and Thames Valleys. 
Beautiful views may be obtained from Bartlett's Tower, on the lofty hills northwest of Hart- 
ford ; and others of more reach from the mountains of Norfolk and Salisbury. 

The Geology of Connecticut is chiefly con- 
cerned with the ancient Eozoic period, varied by 
the Post Tertiary terraces of the great valley, and 
the Triassic sandstone of the New-Haven region. 
Through the red sandstones of the central counties 
columnar ridges of trap-rock have broken their 
way, and show sharp westward sides and gentle 
slopes to the east. The hematite iron of Kent, 
Cornwall and Salisbury is of high grade, and 
many of the weapons used in the Revolution were 
made therefrom. The copper-mines at East naugatuck river. 




KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




WINSTED : LONG POND, 



Gran by shut down in 1 760, when two car- 
goes of ore were lost ; one having been 
wrecked in the Channel and the other cap- 
tured by the French. From 1775 to 1827 
the sul)terranean shafts of this mine served 
as the State Prison. The Granby coppers 
minted in 1737, and the first United-States 
cents, were coined from metal found here. 
The red sandstone of Portland, on the Con- 
necticut River, has been used in immense 
quantities for building. The quarries employ 800 men. At Canaan and Milford, Roxbury 
and Washington, marble and limestone are quarried. Bolton and Haddam are famous for 
mica-slate flagging, used for 80 years for paving, largely in New York and Washington. 
Elsewhere there are quarries of granite roofing slate, hydraulic lime and porcelain clay. "' 
The Climate is severe, but healthful, the mean temperature being 48° Fahrenheit. 
There are practically two seasons, a pleasant summer, lasting from April to November, and 
a bright, clear and cold winter, with dry and keen northwest winds, keeping the sky serene. 
The death-rate is between 17 and 18 in a thousand, being lower than that of Europe or 
Massachusetts. 

Agriculture was the leading business up to 18 10, when the mechanical development 
began. There are 30,000 farms, with an average size of 106 acres in 1850; 99 in i860; 
93 in 1870, and 80 in 1880. Tobacco has been one of the favorite crops ever since the days 
of the aborigines, who cultivated large tracts of it. The old-time "shoe-string" tobacco, 
with its long and narrow leaves, has been superseded by a broader leaf, raised from imported 
seed. It is very mild, and finds its chief use as wrappers and binders for cigars made from 
the strong-flavored Havana tobacco. The product rose from 472,000 pounds in 1840 to 
14,000,000 pounds in 1880, with a value of $2,000,000. 

The culture of tobacco is mostly confined to the valleys of the Connecticut and Housa- 
tonic Rivers. The dairy is the leading branch of agriculture elsewhere. Mixed husbandry 
everywhere prevails, as the soil and climate are well adapted to a great variety of fruits and 
vegetables, which find a ready home market. 

Connecticut abounds in attractive scenery, and holds within its borders many well-known 
summer-resorts. Among these favorite scenes are the vales of ancient Litchfield ; the land- 
scape charms of Winsted and its Mad River ; the western ridges of Newtown and New Mil- 
ford ; Killingly's lovely valley, between the heights of Mashentuck and Breakneck ; the rich 
Piedmontese scenery of the Salisbury region, abounding in lakes and mountains ; the fertile 
and enriching intervales of the Connecticut River, overarched by majestic trees ; the fair rural 
scenes about Woodstock and Pomfret ; and the picturesque wooing of land and water along 
Long-Island Sound. The southern shore is rich in beauty of scenery, and contains scores 
of summer-resorts, from Indian Harbor and Greenwich, on the west, by Fairfield and Savin 
Rock, the Thimble Islands and Saybrook, to New London and Stonington. There are many 
harbors along this embayed coast, more than 
enough for the scanty maritime commerce. Among 
these are Fairfield, Bridgeport, New Haven, Say- 
brook, Stonington and New London. The last- 
named is one of the best harbors on the Atlantic 
coast, deep and capacious, and free from ice. 

The Government officers of the State are 
elected for two years. They include the gover- 
nor, lieutenant-governor, secretary of the State, 
treasurer and comptroller. The Senate has 24 
members, and the House of Representatives new london : Thames bridge. 




THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



123 




HARTFORD: N.-Y. i N. -E. RAILROAD BRIDGE. 



has about 250 members. The United-States 
Circuit Court holds yearly terms at New Haven 
and Hartford ; and the United-States District 
Courts hold two sessions in each of those cities 
yearly. The State tribunals include the Su- 
preme Court of Errors, with a chief justice and 
four associates ; the Superior Court, six judges 
and the five mentioned above ; five courts of 
common pleas, and numerous inferior courts 
and probate courts. The general statutes were 
revised in 18S8, and form an admirable code of 
laws for the public welfare. 

The State Capitol, at Hartford, built of East-Canaan white marble, at a cost of $2,500,- 
000, crowns a beautiful hill in Bushnell Park, bought by the city from Trinity College, and 
given to the State. It is in secular Gothic architecture, designed by Upjohn, and has a 
length of 300 feet, broken by columns, arches, galleries, arcades, and commemorative sculp- 
tures and statuary. The noble twelve-sided dome rises to a height of 275 feet, and is 
crowned by a bronze statue of "The Genius of Connecticut." The Capital is fire-proof. It 
contains the senate chamber, representatives' hall, Supreme-Court room, and State Library, 
and the great battle-flag corridor. In Bushnell Park are statues of Gen. Israel Putnam (by 
J. Q. A. Ward), Ex-Gov. R. D. Hubbard, and Dr. Horace Wells, a discoverer of anoesthesia. 
Here also stands the Memorial Arch. Within the Capitol are statues of Nathan Hale and 
William A. Buckingham, the War-Governor of Connecticut. 

The Militia is under the governor, as commander-in-chief, with seven general staff- 
officers and aides-de-camp. The State troops, officially entitled the Connecticut National 
Guard, form a brigade of four regiments of infantry (34 companies), a battery of light artillery, 
a battalion of colored infantry (three companies), and a small signal corps. The Governor's 
Guards uiclude the first (Hartford, chartered in I77i)and second (New Haven, 1775) com- 
panies of Fort Guards, and the first (Hartford, 178S) and second (New Haven, 1S08) com- 
panies of Horse Guards. The State Arsenal, at Hartford, was built in 181 2, and contains 
many military relics and curiosities. There is a State armory at New London. The militia 
goes into camp every year, at Niantic, near Long-Island Sound. Fitch's Soldiers' Home, at 
Noroton Heights, near the Sound, contains 200 disabled Connecticut veterans of the Seces- 
sion War. It belongs to the State. 

Charities and Corrections. — The American Asylum for the Education and Instruc- 
tion of the Deaf and Dumb was incorporated in 18 16, largely through the efforts of Dr. 
Thomas H. Gallaudet, and opened in 181 7, at Hartford. It received 23,000 acres of land 
from Congress, besides large State aid, and now owns property valued at $400,000. Here 
2, 500 children have been instructed, 90 per cent, of them being New-Englanders. Prof. 
Alexander Graham Bell's system of visible speech is taught ; and industrial training is an 
essential feature. Most of the flourishing schools for deaf-mutes throughout America have 

1 been assisted and officered thence. The State 

General Hospital for the Insane occupies imposing 
stone buildings on a hill near Middletovvn, over- 
looking the Connecticut. It accommodates 1,400 
patients. The Retreat for the Insane was founded, 
at Hartford, in 1824, and has above 150 inmates, 
mainly those who can afford good accommodations. 
The State Prison, at Wethersfield, near Hartford, 
dates from 1827, and holds 250 convicts. The 
buildings are of red sandstone. The Storrs Ag- 
HARTFORD : DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM. Hcultural School is a State institution (established 




124 



AV.VG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




upon a farm given by the Storrs family), 
in the town of Mansfield. The Indus- 
trial School for Girls, founded in 1870 by 
private charity, is mainly supported by 
MiDDLETowN : INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS. thc State, and has a group of handsome 

and commodious buildings, at Middletown. Fifty or more vagrant girls, of from eight to 
16 years, are here taught housekeeping and sewing, and farm and garden work. The 
State Reform School, founded at Meriden, in 1854, has a domain of 195 acres, where bad 
boys of from ten to 16 years are sent by the courts, and required to work for six and 
a half hours, and to study for four and a half hours each day ; 400 boys are kept here. 
The divine cause of charity is well represented in the orphan asylums at Hartford and New 
Haven ; the hospitals at Hartford, New Haven, Waterbury, Danbury and Bridgeport ; and 
the State School for Imbeciles, at Lakeville. 

The National Works in Connecticut include the massive granite fortress of Fort 
Trumbull, near New London, and the dismantled Forts Hale and Wooster, below New 
Haven. There are more than a score of lighthouses along the Sound, and several lights on 
the river. In 1867 the Government secured land for a navy-yard on the Thames, where 
there is a deep and capacious harbor. This station would command the eastern entrance of 
Long-Island Sound, "the Mediterranean of the Western Hemisphere." In the long years 
of peace, since the site was set apart for naval uses, but little has been done for its equip- 
ment, which awaits the coming of the day of need. 

Education is supervised by a State Board. The schools have been maintained, partly 
by taxes ; partly by rate-bills, discontinued in 1S68 ; and partly by the income 
of funds. Local school-funds were raised a century and a half ago 
by the land sales and excise on tea, liquors and other luxuries. The 
State school-fund came from the sale of Western lands, be- 
longing to Connecticut by her Stuart charter, and disposed of 
f^r $1,200,000, which has since grown to above $2,000,000, 
invested in seven-per-cent. land-mortgages. There are 1,400 
school-districts, and 400 male and 2, 700 female teachers. The 
yearly expenditure for the public-schools is $1,800,000. The 
Connecticut Normal Training School, founded at New Britain, 
in 1850, has 330 students, and about 60 graduates yearly. Many of the local schools have fine 
buildings, like that of the Hartford Public High School, a fire-proof structure 236 feet long, 
with handsome Gothic towers, one of which contains a powerful telescope, equipped by 
Warner & Swasey. Connecticut furnishes more college students, in proportion to her pop- 
ulation, than any other State. 

Yale University was founded in 1701, by the ten chief Congregational ministers, as the 
Collegiate School of Connecticut; and remained at Killingworth and Saybrook until 1716, 
when it was moved to New Haven. In I7i8it received the name of its benefactor, Elihu 
Yale, who was at one time Governor of the East-India Company's settlement at Madras. 

In 1887, the name of Yale University was 
authorized by law. There are four depart- 
ments : Philosophy and the Arts (including 
the Academic Department, the School of 
Fine Arts, and the Sheffield Scientific School), 
Theology, Medicine (181 3), and Law. The 
University Library contains 150,000 volumes 
and a vast number of pamphlets ; and there 
are over 50,000 volumes in the professional 
and Linonian libraries. The Peabody Mu- 
MERiDEN : THE STATE REFORM SCHOOL. scum of Natural History, endowed by George 




IS' 



HARTFORD : 
WADSWORTH ATHEN/EUM. 




THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



125 




Peabody, in 1866, with $150,000, 
contains rich and extensive coUec 
tions, in various interesting hnes of 
rcseaich TheicaieSogiaduatestu 
dents, S30 m the academic depart 
ment, 380 in the sucntihc school 
50 students in art, 140 in theolog\, 

50 in medicine, and 1 10 in law , 

1,500 in all with 63 professois and 0;^7V'/>^^^7A 

70 other instructois. The Chittenden Memorial Library, 
erected in 1888-89, i^ ^'^ imposing Romanesque building of 
Longmeadow sandstone. Osborn Hall, a recitation-room 
building, also of 1888-89, i^ ^ Byzantine-Romanesque struc- 
ture of Stony-Creek granite, and is a most noticeable structure. 




NEW HAVEN ; CHITTENDEN MEMORIAL LIBRARY. 



This richly decorated build- 
ing contrasts strangely with the Puritan sim- 
plicity of the contiguous older halls. The Art 
School owns 122 ancient Italian paintings (the 
Jarves Collection), 54 pictures of the Trum- 
bull Gallery, 100 modern paintings, and 150 
casts and marble sculptures. The University 
grounds are adorned by statues of Abraham 
Picrson, the first Rector, or President (1701-7), 
and Prof. Benjamin Silliman, the eminent phy- 
sicist. Yalp has exhibited a notable growth 
for many years, and is one of the four great 



126 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEW LONDON '. 
WILLIAMS MEMORIAL INSTITUTE. 



universities of America. She has given to politics Cal- 
houn and Evarts, Tilden and Mason ; to literature, Sted- 
man and Willis, Percival and Pierpont, Fenimore Cooper, 
Donald G. Mitchell and Theodore Winthrop ; to theol- 
ogy, Woolsey and Bushnell, Dwight and Hopkins, and 
Jonathan Edwards; to science, Morse and Whitney, 
Dana and Silliman; and to lexicography, Webster and 
Worcester. 

Trinity College was founded largely by Episcopalians 
and incorporated in 1823 as Washington College. Bishop 
T. C. Brownell became the first president; and in 1825 two brownstone buildings were 
erected. In 1845 the name was changed to Trinity. After a half-century, the campus be- 
came the site of the new State Capitol ; and the present beautiful buildings, a part of an 
elaborate plan, in early French secular Gothic architecture, arose on a far-viewing hill in 
the southwestern part of Hartford, on the edge of a campus of 80 acres. To these have 
been lately added an Alumni hall and gymnasium, and a science hall, for laboratories. 
There are ten professors and ten lecturers, and 140 students. They represent 18 States. A 
noble statue of Bishop Brownell adorns the college lawn. The library contains 32,000 vol- 
umes ; and there is a valuable museum. 

Wesleyan University, founded in 1831, is under the control of the Methodist Church. 
Among its presidents were Wilbur Fisk (1830-39); Stephen Oliu (1842-51); Nathan 
Bangs, and A. W. Smith. It is in Middletown, __ ^^ 

upon the avenue which Charles Dickens declared ^^ - ^ ""^ 

to be the finest rural street that he had ever seen. _.=r __^ -=i_ 

There are several good buildings and chapter- 
houses. Since 1S72, women have been admitted. 
The University has 20 professors and instructors, 
and 230 students. The value of the plant and 
endowments of Wesleyan is about ^1,600,000. 
The library contains 40,000 volumes. 

The Hartford Theological Seminary was founded 
in 1833 by the Pastoral Union, as a protest against what was conceived to be the objection- 
able philosophical tendency of the Yale Divinity School. In 1834 buildings were erected 
at East Windsor; and in 1865 the institution moved to Hartford, where it occupied the 
noble Hosmer Hall in 1879. There are 12 instructors and 60 students. The library con- 
tains 46,000 volumes. A marked extension of the scope and methods of the institution has 
lately been going forward. The Berkeley Divinity School (Episcopal), at Middletown, was 
founded in 1850. It has more than 300 graduates. There are six instructors and 30 students. 
The Williams Memorial Institute is a handsome Romanesque building of pink granite, 
erected in 1889 on a hill over New London, for the free education of girls. The richly- 
endowed Norwich Free Academy has 250 students, in efficient classical and general courses, 

with a normal training-school for girls. The Slater 
Memorial l^uilding belongs to the Free Academy, 
and is a handsome structure of brick and brown- 
stone, with effective towers and porticos. The in- 
terior is faced with pressed brick and terra cotta, 
and wainscoted with polished gray marble, and in- 
cludes a hall seating 1,100 persons, and the Peck 
j^^^^^^^^^^F '"^^1 Library. The great upper hall contains a mu- 

seum of 227 casts from the most famous sculp- 
tures ; an original Rembrandt ; many valuable 
HARTFORD : TRINITY COLLEGE. modcm French paintings, by Corot, Millet and 




MIDDLETOWN WESLEYAN UNIVERSITY 




THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



127 




NEW LONDON : THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 



others ; a great number of electrotypes of rare 
Greek coins ; and many hundreds of Braun and 
Brogi photographs. This admirable teaching col- 
lection is free to the people, thousands of whom 
visit it every month. The building was erected 
and equipped by William A. Slater, as a memorial 
of his father, John F. Slater, the noble philanthro- 
pist who gave $1,000,000 for the education of 
Southern negroes. This great fund is adminis- 
tered by trustees, and its income reaches and 
strengthens nearly 50 collegiate and professional schools in the States of the South. 

There are many good private schools, like Bacon Academy, at Colchester, founded in 
1780; the Connecticut Literary Institution, in the lovely old rural hamlet of Sufifield ; the 
Episcopal Academy of Connecticut, in the valley town of Cheshire ; the famous old Gun- 
nery, at Washington ; the McLean Seminary, at Simsbury ; and the first-class academies at 
Hartford, New Haven, Bridgeport, Stamford, and other places. 

The chief public libraries are those of Bridgeport, 17,000 volumes ; Norwich, 16,000; 
Waterbury, 38,000; and the great college and reference libraries at New Haven, Hartfoi"d 
and Middletown. The Wadsworth Athenaeum, at Hartford, is a castellated building of 
Glastenbury gneiss, containing rich collections of statuary and paintings ; the interesting 
museum and library of 22,000 volumes, belonging to the Connecticut Historical Society; 
the Hartford Library, of 35,000 volumes; and the richly endowed Watkinson 
Library of Reference of 44,000 standard books. A func^ of $400, 000 has just been 
subscribed, to create out of the different institutions in the 
Athenaeum Building, a great free public library, art-school, 
V-- art-gallery, and school of history. The late J. S. Morgan 
\^ of London, long time a resident of Hartford, gave $100,- 
000 towards this object. The State Library contains 
12,000 volumes. The Public Library of New London, 
built in 1889, is a handsome Romanesque edifice of pink 
granite, with a red tile roof, and arcades covered by groined 
arches of stone. 

Books have for many years been an important product. The first press in the colony 
began its work at New London, in 1709, and another was set up by Thomas Green, at 
Hartford, in 1764. The first locally printed book was The Sayhrook Platform. The sub- 
scription-book business, the great feature of Connecticut publishing, was founded by Silas 
Andrus, at Hartford, more than 60 years ago. Peter Parley's works, Mrs. Stowe's first 
book, the Cottage Bible, Olney's school-books, Mark Twain's earlier works, Headley's 
Great Rebellion, and Richardson's Beyond the Mississippi, were published in Connecticut. 

The most widely-known journal in Connecticut is the Hartford Coitrant, the oldest news- 
paper in America, having been founded in 1764. Its 
early files contain discussions of the Stamp Act, the 
siege of Boston, the hunting of Burgoyne, the ad- 
ministration of Washington, and similar matters. It 
is a Republican paper, its present managers having 
been among the organizers of that party in the State. 
Its editorial and literary departments are of recog- 
nized ability, and it has many special features of in- 
terest, including the best correspondence from New 
York, Boston, and foreign capitals ; and its news de- 
partments are maintained with a high degree of effi- 
ciency. The owners of the Courant are Senator and hartford .- the high school 




NORWICH FREE ACADEMY : 
THE SLATER MEMORIAL BUILDING. 





k 


j 


- ' ^'^^Pf^^Bk a 




^^1 ' 


f^^^BMk 


Iml 


mkl 


^^S 


oilC|| 


I^B^t. 


^^^ 


^■^Ssc: 



128 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNIIED S'lATES. 




HARTFORD : HARTFORD COURANT. 



General Joseph R. Hawley, Charles Dudley Warner, William H. 
Goodrich and Charles H. Clark. It has a national reputation, 
and a wide circulation among intelligent readers. In many old 
Connecticut families, including those that have moved to other 
States, it has been taken continuously for the century and a quar- 
ter which it has been published ; and during its long career it 
has absorbed more than lOO other journals. The Conrattt\\2.=, 
a handsome six-story building, facing the post-office, on the his- 
toric "square." George D. Prentice, afterward of the Loitisville 
Courier-Journal, was at one time engaged in journalism in Hart- 
ford as editor of ihe. Review ; and he "discovered" John G. 
Whittier, and there introduced him to the public. Mr. Whit- 
tier was Prentice's successor, and lived in Hartford several years. 
Two of the leading religious papers in America (now published 
elsewhere) were founded in Hartford — TJie Congregationalist {m 
1839) and The Chiirc/unati (in 1865). Connecticut has 34 daily 
newspapers, 113 weeklies, 21 monthlies, and four quarterlies. 
Five are in German, and, one in Swedish; six are devoted to religion, one to farming, and 
three to labor. Science, socialism, prohibition, art and music have their special organs. 

Maritime Commerce is of but little consequence here, most of it passing to New York. 
Two hundred and fifty vessels enter and clear yearly in foreign trade, and 4,000 in the coast- 
wise trade and fisheries. The fishing fleet numbers nearly 300 vessels, with 1,200 sailors, 
and an annual product of $800,000. It sails from New London and Stonington ; and more 
than a quarter of the tonnage is in the whaling business. The imports and exports of New 
Haven are tenfold gi-eater than all the others combined, passing $4,000,000 a year. A profit- 
able Connecticut industry is the propagation of oysters, in artificial beds along the Sound, 
east and west of New Haven. 

The Railroads of Connecticut are 22 in number, with $67,000,000 of stock (of which 
$19,000,000 is held by 5,500 stockholders in this State); debts amounting to $41,000,000, 
and permanent investments of $112,000,000. Their net income is $3,000,000 a year. 
Nearly 700 miles are included in the Consolidated, or New-York, New-Haven & Hartford 
system. The railways from New York to Boston and the east cross Connecticut and carry 
a prodigious travel, which is protected by careful State inspection. The railway stations at 
Hartfordj New Haven, New London, and other cities, are costly and attractive modern 
structures. The entire coast of Long-Island Sound is followed by a line of railway, passing 
through Stonington and New London, New Haven and Bridgeport. The Shore-Line trains, 
from Boston and Providence to New York, traverse this route. A line of magnificent and 
luxurious steamboats connects Stonington and New York daily, traversing Long-Island 
Sound, and connecting directly with the railway-trains to and from Boston. The 
New-York & New-England Railroad, from Boston 
to Newburgh, runs across interior Connecticut for 132 
miles, with branches to Worcester and Springfield, 
and to New London, connecting daily with steamboats 
for New York. Trains by this route from Boston or 
Providence to New York run down to Willimantic, 
where some of them pass through Middletown, and 
others through Hartford, in either case reaching New 
Haven, and thence following the shore. The running 
time from Boston to New York is six hours ; and these commodious and swift-running trains, 
with their parlor and dining-cars, form a favorite mode of travel for business men, between 
the great cities. The line traverses a picturesque region, and gives passing views of many 
interesting places. The great bridge which carries this line across the Connecticut River 




WATERBURV 



AND BHONSON LIBRARY. 



THE STATE OE CONNECTICUT. 



129 




HARTFORD : SOLDIERS' 
MEMORIAL ARCH. 



at Hartford was erected by the Boston Bridge Works, and is a 
triumph of engineering. The Central New-England & Western 
Railroad (closely allied with the New- York & New-England) 
runs westward from Hartford to the Hudson River, crossing on 
the great Poughkeepsie Bridge. The north and south lines include 
the Housatonic, from Bridgeport, on the Sound, to the Berkshire 
Hills ; the Naugatuck ; the New-Haven & Northampton ; the New- 
York, New-Haven & Hartford, reaching northward to Springfield, 
and forming part of the great Springfield line from Boston to 
New York ; the route following the Connecticut River from Hart- 
ford to the Sound ; the New-London & Northern, reaching up into 
Vermont ; and the Norwich & Worcester. The Thames-River 
Railway bridge, built at New London, in 1888-9, is a great and 
ingenious steel structure, with a draw-bridge 503 feet long, and 
containing 1,200 tons of steel. The iron truss-bridge at Warehouse Point, crossing the Con- 
necticut River, rests on 17 granite piers. It was built at Manchester, England, in 1866. 
Connecticut has 13,000 miles of wagon-roads, costing $650,000 a year, and fairly kept 
up. Steamboat lines connect Stonington, New London, New Haven and Bridgeport with 
New York : and others cross Long-Island Sound, from New London and Hartford to Sag- 
ic^ Harbor; from Bridgeport to Port Jefferson ; and from 

New London to Block Island. 

The Finances of Connecticut are wisely and 
cautiously administered, owing partly to the even 
^t balance of the political parties. The net State debt 
amounts to $1,240,000 ; and the cities and towns owe 
about $17,000,000, mainly due to the enormous ex- 
penses of the Secession War, to railroad subsidies, and 
local improvements in water-supplies, sewerage-sys- 
tems, and streets. The yearly expenses of the State 
are $1,200,000, one third of which goes to the schools 
and the judiciary, the remainder being used for other public purposes. 

Chief Cities. — New Haven, with its many manufactures and the great Yale University. 
lies at the head of a fine salt-water harbor, stretching over an alluvial plain, and overlooked 
by abrupt and picturesque hills. It is famous for the noble elms which overarch its streets, 
and has many fine public buildings and churches. 

Hartford, the capital city, lies along the navigable Connecticut River, aud has great 
manufacturing interests, numerous converging railways, many handsome churches and public 




HARTFORD I CHARTER-OAK RACE-TRACK. 




NORWICH HARBOR AND THE THAMES RIVER. 



buildings, benevolent institutions, schools and libraries. Here dwell Mrs. Stowe, Mark 
Twain and Charles Dudley Warner. The city is said to be the richest, for its population, 
in America ; and has a world-wide fame for its immensely wealthy insurance-companies. 



130 



ICING'S IIAXDEOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Bridgeport is a railway and steamboat centre, 56 miles east of New York, with a wonderful 
variety of manufactures, of sewing-machines, corsets, cartridges, and many other articles. 
It is a handsome city, adorned with pleasant parks, and a magnificent esplanade road look- 
ing out from Seaside Park over Long-Island Sound. To the westward is tranquil old Fair- 
field, one of the most refined and charming villages on the Sound. New London looks out 
from its hill-streets over the openings of the Thames to the aristocratic summer-villas and 
hotels along the Sound. It has many antique mansions and immemorial elms ; and in the 
chancel of St. -James Church is buried Samuel Seabury, the first American Episcopal Bishop 




HARTFORD, THE CAPITAL OF CONNECTICUT. 

(1784). In summer, steamboats run from New London to Fisher's Island, Watch Hill, 
Block Island, Shelter Island, Long Island, and other places. This was once a renowned 
whaling-port, and now manufactures silks and woolens. 

At Norwich, a beautiful little city at the head-waters of the Thames, is the grave of the 
great Indian chieftain, Uncas. A simple monument, marking the grave, was dedicated with 
ceremonies in which Andrew Jackson took part. There is also a memorial stone, marking 
the spot where Miantonomi was slain by Uncas. Mrs. Lydia Sigourney ; T. Sterry Hunt, 
the Canadian scientist ; President Oilman, of the Johns-Hopkins University ; President 
Timothy Dwight (second), of Yale, and Donald G. Mitchell were natives of Norwich. Ston- 
ington, perched on its narrow rocky point at the east end of the Sound, remembers August, 
1814, when the Rainilies. Padolns, and other British war-ships, bombarded it for three days. 
At the other end of the State are Stamford and Greenwich, now practically suburbs of New 
York, with the beauty of architecture, lawns and flowers added to their natural seaside 
• charms. Among the inland towns are Waterbury, on the Naugatuck, with handsome 
churches and great factories ; New Britain, a rich industrial hive among the hills ; Middle- 
town, beautifully placed on a great bend in the Connecticut ; Winsted, harnessing Mad 
River into its iron and steel works ; and Meriden, near a picturesque range of hills, and 
containing the great Britannia works among its many large and varied industries. 

Insurance has found its best and fullest development in Hartford, whose corporations 
are famous all over the world for their enterprise, integ- 
rity and permanent merit. So vast are the operations 
of these companies, that they carry risks exceeding $1,- 
000,000,000. In 1794 Sanford & Wadsworth insured 
William Imlay's house, in Hartford, " against Fire, and 
all dangers of Fire," in the name (assumed and un- 
official) of the Hartford Fire Insurance Company. This 
■was the first fire-insurance policy known in the United 
States. Daniel Wadsworth and others, in 1810, organized 
the actual Hartford Fire Insurance Company, with 
$150,000 capital (one tenth paid in), and no expenses 
save ^yx) a year to the secretary, and $30 for fire-wood. hartford : hartford fire-insurance co. 




THE STATE OE CONNECTICUT. 



131 




HARTFORD . CONNECTICUT MUTUAL 
LIFE-INSURANCE COMPANY. 



In 1835 the great fire in New York caused a loss to the company 
of $60,000 (an immense sum in those days) ; but Eliphalct 
Terry, its president from 1835 to 1849, pledged his own prop- 
erty to the Hartford Bank, and hastened in a sleigh to New 
York, where he met all the obligations of the company, and 
established its reputation on a high plane, which has been hon- 
orably maintained to the present time, when it ranks among 
the foremost insurance companies of the age. Its loss of 
$1,968,000 in the great Chicago fire was bravely met, but ne- 
cessitated the paying in of $500,000 new capital. The capital 
now is $1,250,000, with assets.of not far from $6,000,000. 
The company erected the handsome granite building which is 
now its home, in 1870, during the presidency of George L. 
Chase (which has lasted since 1S67). The business inaugurated 
by the Hartford Fire-insurance Company has developed in the 
city of its origin more energetically than anywhere else. Hart- 
ford leads the United States in fire-insurance, and is most 
widely known from this feature of its activity. There are six local companies, with assets 
of above $25,000,000, and an aggregate capital of $10,000,000; and they pay $5,000,000 
yearly in losses. Besides these six, there are only nine other companies in America with 
capitals of as much as $1,000,000 each. Among all these gigantic corporations, none 
enjoys a greater confidence than the pioneer company, the venerable and conservative, yet 
always enterprising, " Hartford Fire." 

One of the most beautiful buildings in Hartford — a six-story Renaissance edifice of 
granite, erected in 1870, at the corner of Main and Pearl Streets— belongs to the Connec- 
ticut Mutual Life-insurance Company, which was chartered in 1846, and became the foun- 
dation of the vast life-insurance business which distinguishes Hartford in the nation. Starting 
Avith a guarantee fund of only $50,000, it won an immediate and brilliant success, and has 
gone forward with steadily increasing strength. In 44 years, up to 1890, the company 
received over $220,000,000, and paid out to policy-holders $140,000,000, with $25,000,000 
for expenses and taxes, leaving a balance of $56,000,000 as net assets. This colossal trust- 
fund is invested safely and productively, and its profits wholly inure to the benefit of the 
insured, the surplus being returned during each year to those who have contributed towards 
it, so that each policy-holder gets his insurance at its actual cost. It stands among the fore- 
most corporations in the world, not only of life-insurance, but of any kind. The predom- 
inating aim of the solid Connecticut Mutual Life, under the competent presidency of Jacob 
L. Greene, is to furnish the greatest amount of absolute protection to the families of the 
insured, and to furnish this protection at the lowest possible cost. The Connecticut Mutual 
is in fact a pure and simple life-insurance company, conducted unswervingly in the best 
interests of its thousands of policy-holders. 

Another interesting department of Hartford insurance is devoted to accidents. About 

20 years ago, after a series of terrible railway ac- 
cidents, the Railway Passengers' Assurance Com- 
pany of England came into being. James G. Bat- 
terson, returning from Italy to Hartford, studied 
into this scheme while in England, and in 1863, 
organized, at Hartford, The Travelers Insurance 
Company, of which he is still the president, its 
office being a carpetless upstairs room with two 
chairs and a legless pine desk, and the present sec- 
retary, Rodney Dennis, being also the only clerk 
- and office-bov. The company now occupies the 

HARTFORD ; TRAVELERS INSURANCE COMPANY. ^UU OniLC UU^. X 11^. ^ ] r 





HARTFORD : HARTFORD STEAM- 
BOILER INSURANCE COMPANY. 



132 A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

fine old Ellsworth mansion, on the quiet and embowered Prospect 
Street. The life-department of the Travelers is virtually an in- 
dividual life-insurance company, and one of the foremost. Its 
business is purely on the stock plan — a low cash rate, without 
dividends to policy-holders. The record of the Travelers stands 
absolutely untarnished from its foundation. The company has 
assets of $13,000,000, and a surplus exceeding $3,500,000. It 
has paid nearly |)i3,ooo,ooo to victims of accidents, and $5,000,- 
000 to policy-holders in the life-department. The Travelers 
Record is a bright little monthly paper issued by the company, 
bristling with facts and arguments in favor of casualty insurance. 
This is the largest and most successful accident and purely stock 
life-insurance company in the world. As in all other successful 
undertakings, the work of the "Travelers" has found many 
competitors ; but in keeping with its age and pioneership, the old 
Travelers of Hartford remains unapproached in its supremacy in this broad field of effort. 

The Hartford Steam-Boiler Inspection & Insurance Company was evoked in the old 
Polytechnic Club, where Tyndall's suggestions and Sir William Fairbairn's experiments as 
to the explosion of boilers were exhaustively discussed. The company was chartered and 
began operations in 1866, and during a quarter of a century has successfully labored to 
create a demand for its protective agencies. It insures more than 30,000 boilers, and in 
case of explosion or rupture, makes good all loss to property, with indemnity for loss of life 
or personal injury, to an amount not exceeding the sum insured. The work of the company 
is mainly directed to the cure of defects and the prevention of disaster, and it has a hundred 
skilled and trained inspectors, who at stated times thoroughly examine the boilers under its 
care. Incipient defects are hunted out and remedied, and thus many lives and millions of 
dollars' worth of property have been saved yearly. It is not only the pioneer company in its 
line, being many years older than any other, but it is also far the strongest and most suc- 
cessful. Since 1867 it has been under the presidency of J. M. Allen, to whom is due the 
chief credit for the formulation and development of boiler inspection and boiler insurance, 
and its general introduction. 

Manufactures. — Connecticut, as it now is, is a creation of this century, based in large 
degree on the ingenuity of her inventors and the individual ability of her workmen. The 
famous Connecticut Joint-Stock Act of 1837, framed by Theodore Hinsdale, is the basis of 
modern manufacturing corporations, and has been copied by nearly every State, and by the 
English Limited Liability Act of 1855. The principle thus originated and defined in Con- 
necticut has been of vast and incalculable importance in the industrial development of the 
modern world. 

The last report of the Connecticut Bureau of Labor Statistics enumerates 90 large estab- 
lishments, in 20 lines of industry, employing 28,256 persons, paying wages amounting yearly 

to $12,500,000, and manufacturing upwards of 

$45,000,000 worth of goods, with a net profit of 
$3,800,000. The laws limit the work of women 
and children to 60 hours a week, and compel chil- 
dren under 13 years of age to attend school. The 
first of these statutes is obeyed, and the other 
suffers from evasion. Since i860 the wages of 
men have been advanced 43 per cent. ; and those 
of women 57 percent. Industrial warfare breaks 
out from time to time, resulting from the convic- 
tion of the M'orkmen that their share and oppor- 
tunities are being diminished. An acute English 



J^ 



£^. 



Tb^T^A: fi7 Lyjiffij 




HARTFORD ; HARTFORD-COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 



THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



133 



i^^ 


/Hi 1 "^ 


K\\ 


I 1 


m 


iv'l 




1 


^^^m 


9 


^^^3 


^r-- 



BRIDGEPORT : WHARF SCENE. 



observer thus pictures the ingenious local me- 
chanics : "The work-shops of Massachusetts 
and Rhode Island, and especially of Connecti- 
cut, are full of such men. Usually tall, thin, 
reflective and taciturn, but clever, and above all 
things free — the equals, although mechanics, of 
the capitalists upon whose ready alliance they 
can count — they are an element of incalculable 
value to American industry." 

With respect to certain alleged local indus- 
tries, it is well said, in Reclus's A BinVs-Eyc 
Viezv of the World: " The manufactures of wooden nutmegs, wooden oats, and basswood 
hams are located precisely where they always were — in the imaginations of lumbering wits." 
Among the products of local industries are the axes of CoUinsville, the clocks of Bristol 
and Thomaston, the powder of Hazardville, the knives of Northfield, the carpets of Thomp- 
sonville, the plush and silver of Seymour, the bank-note paper of Manchester, the farming 
implements of Winsted and Higganum, and the bells of Chatham. 

This land of peace has furnished armaments to contending nations, bringing the raw 
materials from distant points, and by the ingenuity of her mechanics fashioning them into 
weapons of terribly destructive power. The Gatling guns, Colt's fire arms, and the Hotch- 
kiss multicharge guns come from Hartford ; the Winchester rifles, from New Haven ; the 
guns, fromMeriden ; millions of cartridges from Bridgeport ; and pikes and 
from CoUinsville. The works at Hazardville made $1,250,000 worth of 
powder for Great Britain during the Russian War. 

Samuel Colt, the son of a Hartford manufacturer, while yet a 
lad, beguiled the tedium of a voyage to Calcutta (in 1830) by in- 
venting and making a model of a revolver, which he patented in 
Europe and America in 1835, and began to manufacture in 1S36. 
These weapons were first used in the Seminole War, and then in 
the Mexican War. In 1848, Colt built a factory in Hartford; 
and in 1855 finished the great dike around the South Meadow, and 
the magnificent Colt's Armory, where, during the Secession War, 
HARTFORD: ALLYN MBMORiAL. as many as 136,000 revolvers and 50,000 muskets were turned out 
in a single year. All of the famous Gatling guns have been made by Colt's Company. 
Colt's Patent Fire-Arms Manufacturing Company was incorporated in 1856. Its pro- 
ducts have been carried into every quarter of the earth, and will continue to be in demand 
until the coming of the golden age. The machinery and methods employed are of wonder- 
ful ingenuity and delicacy, the parts of the weapons being interchangeable. The armory is 
the largest private concern of the kind in the world, and sometimes employs 1,500 men. 
Besides revolvers, the works now turn out great numbers of magazine rifles, hammerless 
shot-guns, Gatling guns, and printing-presses. In 1890 they began to make the Driggs- 
Schroder rapid-fire guns, one, three and 
six pounders, much resembling the Hotch- 
kiss guns, but simpler in mechanism. 

The last argument in a frontier dis- 
pute, or in a trouble between the white 
and black races in the South, or between 
Apache and Arizonian, is usually a Win- 
chester rifle, or, briefly, a Winchester. 
The same conclusive debaters were used 
in vast numbers in the last war between 
Turkey and Russia, shattering the still- 





COLT'S PATENT FIHL 



^34 



A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEW HAVEN : WINCHESTER REPEATING ARMS CO. 



CAi!&>4.ws._ 



ness of the Balkans and the Danube 
with Connecticut weapons, held b\ 
t)pposing lines of battle. Man) 
European and Asiatic nations have 
armed their choice troops with 
these rifles, provided with ammuni- 
tion from the same New-England 
source. Thousands of sportsmen, 
also, wander through the forests and 
over the prairies with these fire-arms 
over their shoulders. The world- 
renowned Winchester Repeating Arms Company, organized in 1858, and incorporated in 
1866, employs 1,500 men, and several thousand complicated and ingenious machines, in its 
great modern works, covering many acres with brick buildings, in a lovely suburb of New 
Haven. The famous weapon made here was first the Jennings gun ; then the Volcanic re- 
peating rifle ; th^ the Henry rifle ; and, finally, the Winchester, from O. F. Winchester, 
its maker. It had become such a combination of patents, that no one name held it, and it 
took the name of the manufacturer. 

While the flint-lock has given way to the percussion-lock, and tliis in turn to the breech- 
loader, the science of ammunition has more than 
kept pace with these changes ; and the trained 
ofticers of the foremost European governments 
have been sent to the works of the Union Metal- 
lic Cartridge Company, at Bridgeport, in order to 
transfer its incomparable system to their owti 
arsenals. Although these famous works make 
over a million cartridges daily, they never over- 
take the demand, but are driven to their fullest 
capacity all the time. It is the largest and most 
famous cartridge-factory in the world, and produces a vast variety of explosives, from small 
revolver ammunition up to Gatling cartridges, with brass and paper shot shells, caps and 
wads, reloading implements, and an immense number of military cartridges. The machinery 
is so true and accurate in its operations that it almost seems to be possessed of reason, and 
dispenses with a vast amount of manual labor. The highest revolver scores on record have 
been made with cartridges manufactured by this company ; and all the famous marksmen 
of America use no ammunition except that of their make. Among the many interesting and 
uncommon industries of Bridgeport, none is of greater interest or wider fame than that of 
the Union Metallic Cartridge Co., whose products are found in all lands. 

The experience and study of more than a third of a century have wrought wonders in 
the transformation of the base metals into forms of enduring beauty and high artistic value. 
One of the chief factors in this change is the Bradley & Hubbard Manufacturing Company, 
which was founded in a small way by the men 
whose name it bears, in 1854, and now employs 
more than a thousand operatives, including many 
of the most skillful artisans in America. Their 
immense works at Meriden are equipped through- 
out with the most improved machinery, and pro- 
duce rich and beautiful art-metal goods, includiiiL; 
bronzes, card-tables, easels and mirrors; also fen- 
ders, andirons and fire-sets, besides gas and elec- 
tric fixtures for dwellings or public buildings. The 
"B. & H." lamps, simple in construction, and ^^^^^^^■. bradley 4 hubbard mfg. co. 




BRIDGEPORT : UNION METALLIC CARTRIDGE CO. 




THE STATE OF CONNECTJCCT. 



135 




MERIOEN ; MERIDEN BRITANNIA CO. 



safe, and yielding a powerful white 
and steady light, are among the best 
in the world. The size adapted for 
piano, banquet, hanging and table 
lamps is of 75 candle-power, while 
that used for stores, halls, etc., is of 
400 candle-power. The extension 
piano-lamps, in wrought iron, polished 
brass or silver, with their " B. & H." 
burners, have won general recognition 
in American homes for their useful- 
ness and beauty. 

Among the most artistic of the de- 
velopments of Connecticut genius are 
the varied products of the Meriden Britannia Company, founded in 1852, and now includ- 
ing ten acres of floor space in their great factories, wherein 1,200 skilled artisans are en- 
gaged. Their silver-plated ware is honestly made, of the best materials, and with a con- 
tinually advancing standard of artistic beauty, to keep abreast of the aesthetic spirit of the 
age. The spoons and forks bearing their trade-mark, 1847-Rogers Bros., A I, are found 
on millions of American tables. In the great maze of substantial brick buildings at Meri- 
den the most interesting processes may be followed, from the entrance of the raw material 
until its completion in forms of unusual and permanent beauty. This is the most extensive 
establishment of the kind in the world ; and has prosperous salesrooms at New York, 
Chicago, San Francisco, London, and Paris, and a branch factory at Hamilton, Ont. 

Thread is a small enough matter, but it takes upwards of 30,000,000 miles of it yearly to 
keep their clothes on the American people. A large part of this is furnished bytheWilli- 
mantic Linen Company, the chief American corporation making all the numbers of six-cord 
sewing-cotton from the raw material, and using each year the product of 3,000 acres of 
Sea-Island cotton-land, to make nearly 9,000,000 miles of thread. Each day this com- 
pany makes 250,000 spools or 28,000 miles of thread, in 5,000 varieties and 300 colors 
and shades. It was long supposed that the moist and equable climate of Scotland was 
essential in spinning yarn for fine thread ; but the Willimantic Company, by steam-heating 
and atomized moisture, has created in the heart of variable New England an area of un- 
varying warmth and humidity, superior for the purpose even to the climate of the Cale- 
donian land. There are several large and orderly stone mills, besides the famous No. 4, 
built in 1881, which covers more ground than any other textile mill in the world. The 
operatives, mostly American women and girls, number 1,500, with bright and comfortable 
homes, a public library, and other pleasant things. Intelligence is necessary in this industry, 
and all the operatives must be able to read and , __ ^^^^ ^ ^._^ ._,_.„ _^^ - ^^;,^^, ,^ , _ ^| 
write. The long and fine-stapled Sea-Island cotton, 
the most expensive in the world, is freed from seeds 
and dirt by the picker machine ; unsnarled by th< 
carding-machine ; drawn into ribbon-like "slivers ; " 
re-combed, roved, spun into yarn, twisted into 
thread, washed, bleached, dyed (if colored), spooled, 
labeled, and boxed. The excellence of the result is 
attested by a cabinet of medals awarded at different 
expositions, as well as by the experience of the 
thousands of house-mothers all over America. 

The silk-mills owned by Cheney Brothers, at South Manchester and in Hartford, 
are a series of spacious brick buildings, of plain but solid construction, and containing 
a large amount of delicate and ingenious machinery. The product is about $4,000,000 




IMANTIC LINEN CO. 



136 



Wi 



am t : [ [ c a ; i) 1 r, n jx c c f B t:'ti D,icltiCtHC| 1 1 1 IlL,^ 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STAIES. 



a year, in plain silks, plushes, pongees, printed 
silks, crapes, and other goods. There are 
over 2,000 operatives in these mills. In South 
Manchester their homes are mostly owned 
by the company, and are of simple design, 
Init afford a good degree of comfort. The 
village is not crowded around the mills. Every 
house has some space about it, the result being 
to scatter the population ; while the homes of 
the mill-owners stand in an unfenced park of 




SOUTH MANCHESTER : CHENEY BROS. SILK-MILLS. 




ROCKVILLE : BELDING BROS. & CO. 



several hundred acres, more nearly adjacent to the mills than those of the employees, and 
made attractive by wide lawns, trees, and shrubbery. The sanitary conditions are good, and 
the scenery of the surrounding country diversified and agreeable. A public hall and a free 
library contribute to the pleasures of life. 

The great mills at Rockville, owned and operated by Belding Brothers & Co., are 
mainly used for the making of spool silk, and employ nearly 700 persons. Although these 
works have been repeatedly enlarged and provided with spacious annexes, they are entirely 
inadequate to supply the demand, and the Beldings have established complete mills also 
at Northampton (Mass.), Montreal (P. Q.), Belding (Mich.), and San Francisco (Cal). 
Among the products of this chain of silk-mills, reaching 
across the continent, are embroidery and wash art-silks (in 
360 colors), machine-twist, spool and embroidery silks, 
piece goods, and very fine and delicate silk hosiery and 
underwear, all made by the latest and most ingenious 
machinery. The main Belding offices are in New York. 
I'his colossal business, with its five completely equipped 
factories, 3,000 operatives, and daily consumption of over 
a ton of raw silk, was founded in 1863 by Messrs. M. M., 
H. H., A. N., and D. W. Belding, who started in a small way, retailing silk from house to 
house, in the country towns of Connecticut and New York. 

The Ponemah Cotton Mills, among the largest in the world, are on the Shetucket River, near 
Norwich. They are a quarter of a mile long, and employ 1,800 persons, consuming 6,500 
bales of cotton yearly, and making 20, 000, 000 yards of fine cotton cloth. The textiles woven 
here are recognized in the trade as the finest cotton or white dress goods ever produced in 
this country. The village of Taftville has grown up around the mills, and is largely owned 
by the company, which furnishes its people with pleasant homes at small expense. The 
mills are handsome buildings, architecturally, and have- immeiisr nml (-n>;tlv equipments of 
the most modern machinery, efficient 
for the grg^t and exquisitely fine pro- 
duct \yhrc'Fi~~iS demanded of them. 
The work of developing this manu- 
facturing power began in 1867, and 
the mill machinery was started in 
1870. The capital stock of the com- 
pany is $2,000,000, and the mills — 
have 130,000 spindles, whose fine produL-u-? 
find a ready market all over the country. 

The first woolen mill in America was 
established in Hartford, in 1788, and made 
crow-colored goods, Hartford gray and 
Congress brown. At the inauguration 
ceremonies of April 30, 17S9, President 




TAFTVILLE : PONEMAH MILLS. 



THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



137 




HARTFORD : 
DWIGHT, SKINNER & CO. 



Washington, Vice-President Adams, and the Con- 
necticut Congressional delegation, wore suits of Hart- 
ford cloth, and Washington afterward visited the 
mill. The cloth sold at from $2.50 to $5 a yard ; 
hut the country was so poor after the Revolution that 
the pioneer mill run for only six years. The industry 
revived again, with tremendous energy and prosperity, 
and 25,000,000 pounds of wool are now used yearly 
in the factories about Hartford. President Harrison and Vice- 
President Morton were inaugurated in 1889, in suits of Hartford 
cloth. The industry thus firmly established has called up the 
collateral enterprise of buying and selling wools on a large scale, 
by such well-known houses as D wight, Skinner & Co., of Hartford, 
founded in 1856, and now handling immense quantities of wool yearly. Much of this is 
" grease wool," just as it is sheared, and is bought and sold in this condition. The concern 
has a large scouring plant at Windsor Locks, near Hartford, where they clean and scour 
4,000,000 pounds of wool every year. This purified grade is sold to the leading manufac- 
turers. The wools used by Dwight, Skinner & Co. come from all parts of the United States, 
and from Australia, Russia and Africa. 

New England has an interesting aspect in its commercial side, in the number of strong 
copartnerships and corporations which have passed into their second half century of active 
business. Among these is the historic house of Beach & Co., which was founded away 
back in August, 1833, largely by the efforts of George Beach, Jr., son of George Beach, 
Cashier and President of the Phoenix Bank for 50 years, and a 
prominent member of Christ Church. For nearly 60 years Beach 
& Co. have stood at the head of the dyestuff trade in this section, 
and all the partners still bear the name of Beach. Besides their 
own product of dye-woods, indigo extracts and other goods of a 
similar character, they are the sole American agents for The Brit- 
ish Alizarine Company's Alizarine, the Atlas Works Aniline dyes, 
and Mucklow's Elton Fold dyeing extracts. No small part of the 
beauty of American fabrics has come from the violet, malachite, 
berberine, mandarin, primrose, opal, blue, crimson, scarlet, and 
purple sent out from this establishment. Beach & Co. also do an 
extensive importing and exporting commission business, having 
reliable correspondents in the principal cities of the Old World, 
as well as in Australia and the Spanish islands. For many years they have received the 
bulk of the cochineal consumed on this continent, their celebrated J. R. G. being well 
known by all important consumers. 

The Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing Company, originally organized in 1853, at Water- 
town, moved to Bridgeport, its present location, in 1856. It was originated for the pur- 
pose of manufacturing sewing-machines, under the patents granted to Allen B. Wilson for 
inventions which were practically perfected by the co-operation of Nathaniel Wheeler ; and 
____ , _^ it introduced to the public the first sewing- 

machines adapted to general use in families. 
The factories cover ten acres, and the plant 
comprises machinery and appliances for cast- 
ing and metal-working, the manufacture of 
needles, and cabinet-work. There are 1,200 
employees, who are of a higher grade than 
usual in manufactories of a similar character. 
BRIDGEPORT . WHEELER & wiLSuN MANUFACTURING CO. This couipany has always employed the best 




||i!igSK5iEH^il| 



HARTFORD : BEACH & CO. 




138 A'ING'S IlANnnOOK OF THE UNITED STAVES. 

inventive talcnl and the most skillful workmen, and consequently has from the beginning 
stood among the foremost in the march of improvement in the art of sewing by machinery. 
Its products, well known throughout the civilized world, consist of sewing-machines for 
family use and for every grade of manufacturing in cloth and leather, together with button- 
hole machines and a number of specialities pertaining to mechanical stitching. The high 
esteem in which their labor-saving machines are held is attested by the fact that whenever 
the mechanical products of the world have been placed on competitive exhibition, the 
Wheeler & Wilson sewing-machines have been crowned with the highest honors. The suc- 
cesses at the World's Expositions at Paris, in 1867, Vienna, in 1873, Philadelphia, in 1876, 
and Paris, in 1S78, were emphatically confirmed at the Exposition Uim'erselle, Paris, 1889, 

at which the only grand prize for sewing- 
machines was awarded to the Wheeler & 
Wilson, and the Cross of the Legion of Honor 
was conferred upon Nathaniel Wheeler, the 
president of the corporation. 

The Scovill Manufacturing Company, 
another pre-eminent Connecticut industry, 
is one of the chief establishments of the 
bright little city of Waterbury, on the 
Naugatuck River. It dates its origin from the primitive days of 1802, when Abel Porter 
& Co. began the manufacture of gilt l)uttons, in one end of a grist mill. The establishment 
was incorporated "under its present name in 1830, and its works now cover a dozen acres, 
and make up brass and copper into almost every form desirable for convenience or ornament. 
Thence come buttons by the million, electric wires, student-lamps, hinges, match-safes, and 
myriads of other articles, which are sold in all parts of the world. The company also has 
works in New Haven and New York, and agencies in New York and Chicago. The power 
for the first factory of this company was furnished by a single horse. The manufacture of 
buttons began here about 1790, when Samuel Grilley learned the art from an Englishman 
at Boston, and taught his brothers, Henry and Silas, at Waterbury. The buttons were of 
pewter, and when Silas Grilley and the Porters united, in 1802, the first brass buttons were 
made. Now the Scovill works are the crown of American brass and German-silver manu- 
facturers, with a product of immense variety and value. 

Another remarkable development of mechanical ingenuity appears in the business of the 




WATERBURY SCOVILL MANUFACTURING CO 



Ansonia Brass and Copper 
industry was founded in 
Phelps, Dodge & Co. 
and has had a career of 
it now occupies five great 
acres, and continually 
hands, with 
of nearly 
year. The 
stands pre- 
its product 
copper, and 
toms, cop - 

electrical purposes, and in- 
over a hundred patents for 
and for various forms of 
own Cowlcs's patents for 
eral other remarkable spe- 
varieties of rods, tubes, and 




ANSONIA : ANSONIA BRASS AND COPPER CO. 



Company, at Ansonia. This 
1S47, ^^y Anson G. Phelps of 
(whence the name Ansonia), 
uninterrupted prosperity, until 
factories, covering about 16 
employing from l,200toi,300 
a pay-roll 
$900,000 a 
company 
eminent in 
of sheet- 
copper bot- 
per wire for 
got copper, and controls 
lamps and chandeliers, 
metal-working. They also 
insulating wire, and sev- 
cialties ; and produce great 
wire, besides lamps and 




THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 

chandeliers of every kind for kerosene oil. This com- 
pany also manufactured clocks until 1878, when that 
part of their business was reorganized under the name 
of the Ansonia Clock Company, with factories in Brook- 
lyn, New York, where they employ about 1,200 hands. 

The art of pressing, stamping or forging hot metal, 
in dies of various forms, or drop-forging, gives results 
impossible to attain by hand-forging, and produces the 
most complicated and the simplest forms of forged 
work with admirable success. The pioneers in this 
craft were the Billings & Spencer Co., founded in .cer co. 

1869 by C. E. Billings, and even to this day making a much greater number and variety 
of drop-forged goods than any other American house. As representative of this line, the 
establishment received a diploma of merit at the International Exhibition of 1876 at Phila- 
delphia. The products include 120 varieties of steel wrenches, and forgings for shuttles, 
guns, vises, chisels, thumb-screws, clamps, gauges, pliers, and a great variety of machinists' 
tools and other articles in iron, steel, and bronze. Another interesting specialty is drop- 
forgings from pure copper, for electrical machinery. The works of the Billings & Spencer 
Co. are at Hartford, and employ 125 men. Their products have reflected honor on Ameri- 
can ingenuity at the great expositions of Vienna, Chili, Boston, and New York, where they 
have received medals and diplomas. 

New Haven is celebrated all over the world for its carriages, embracing all lines 
of vehicles, from the light side-bar wagon, carrying one person, to the heavy and stylish 
brougham. This industry was one of the earliest to be founded in the city, and has met 
with a great development. New Haven also has a factory in which 2,000 persons are kept 
busy making rubber shoes ; and an equal number are engaged in making corsets. The 
New-Haven Clock Co. were pioneers in their business, and have branch houses in other 
countries. Another prominent industry of the City of Elms is the manufacture of builders' 
hardware and coffin trimmings. In addition, there are engine, boiler and machine shops 
and foundries, and large piano and organ factories. 

The steady and profitable development of manufacturing has been attended by a sus- 
pension of activity in the agricultural regions, which barely hold their own. Connecticut 
has thirty cities and towns having a population above 4,000 ; and these include 62 per cent, 
of the people of the State. The urban population continues to increase much more rapidly 
than that of the open country ; and many of the pleasant farms of the hill-country are 
being allowed to enter upon a rest which may endure for centuries, or until new and unfore- 
seen economic conditions restore the people to the love of Nature. 

In former days the transmission of mechanical power was effected by costly and cum- 
bersome systems of gearing, until the invention of leather belting afforded a better way. 
Pliny Jewell came down from New Hampshire to Hartford in 1845, ^"^^ "^ 1848 began to 
make leather belts, being the third person in America to enter this business. P. Jewell & 
Sons devoted much time and energy, and persistent personal effort to educating American 
manufacturers to the use of belting, and their plant 
increased until it now represents an investment of 
$1,000,000, and includes the spacious Hartford fac- 
tory, and large tanneries at Rome (Georgia), and Jellico 
(Tennessee), in the heart of the best oak-bark country. 
The green hides arc rigidly inspected, and very care- 
fully made up, by the latest improved machinery, 
into all sizes and shapes of belts. In 1883 the Jewell 
Belting Co. was organized ; and the business of the 
corporation now reaches over a vast area. hartford : jewell belting co. 




140 



KING'S HANDBOOK t)F THE UNITED STATES. 




BRIDGEPORT : EATON, COLE & BURNHAM CO. 



The Eaton, Cole & Buniliam Company, wliose 
\\ orks arc located at Bridgeport, is one of the 
loremost establishments in the world for the 
manufacture of all manner of brass and iron fit- 
tings for use in conducting steam, water, gas, 
and oil. These products include an immense 
variety of pipes, valves, cocks, radiators, cutting 
and threading tools, and other appurtenances, 
and are sold all over the American continent, as 
well as in Europe, being indispensable to the 
comfort of the people, and to the development 
of many of our great national industries. This commanding business dates from the year 
1870, and was formed by the consolidation of the interests of the gentlemen whose names 
the company bears. It employs 800 men, with a yearly pay-roll exceeding $500,000, and 
uses vast quantities of iron, copper, tin, spelter and lead, in the production of the goods men- 
tioned. The patents owned by the corporation include a great number of devices for rap- 
idly and economically manufacturing their goods, as well as articles made by them for sale. 
Probably, no line of industry excels the one in which this company is engaged in point of 
the usefulness of the goods manufactured, to the people and to the world at large. 

On the harbor-side at Bridgeport, with a fine deepwater channel along its front, and 
railways traversing its grounds, is the compact and serviceable plant, with two acres of 
flooring, of the Springfield Emery Wheel Manufac- 
turing Company, the designers and maker of the 
largest variety of grinding machines. This busi- 
ness was founded at Springfield, in 1S81, by the 
four Hyde brothers. In 1890, the new plant at 
Bridgeport was built, and thoroughly equipped for 
the manufacture of wheels from emery, and for a 
limitless variety of grinding machines in many dif- 
ferent sizes and styles, for grinding and sharpen- 
ing all sorts of implements and metal surfaces, from 
the delicate tools used in jewelers' shops up to [I 
heavy plowshares and car-wheels. These service- 
able and indispensable machines are supplied with wheels made entirely of emery and cor- 
undum, which have a much greater grinding power and endurance than natural grindstones. 
Springfield wheels are in use by the United-States Government, the Edison and Westing- 
house companies, and thousands of manufacturers. The Springfield Emery Wheel Co. also 
makes daily 150 reams of sapphire garnet paper, in several grades. This is a sandpaper 
whose coating is pulverized garnet, large mines of which are owned by the company. 

The Pope Manufacturing Company stands preeminent in the world, in the manufacture 

and sale of bicycles. It founded the business in 
1877, in Boston, by importing English machines, 
at a time when there was not a score of wheel- 
men in the Union (Col. Albert A. Pope, president 
of the company, being one). In 1878 the company 
began the manufacture of bicycles at Hartford, 
and their works now cover acres of fioorage, where 
hundreds of the best New-England mechanics, 
aided by the finest modern machinery, make a 
yearly increasing number of high-grade Columbia 
bicycles, tricycles and "safeties" for men and 
women. This famous corporation has a large 




BRID(-,EFOKT . SPRINbFIELD EMERY WHEEL CO. 




HARTFORD ; POPE MANUFACTURING CO. 



THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



141 




HARTFORD : PRATT & WHITNEY CO. 



office-building at Boston, branch-stores at New York and Chicago, and 600 agencies. By 
its early acquisition of patents, its strict adherence to one list of prices and discounts, its 
protection of dealers, and the repeated triumphs of its machines on the race-track and tour- 
ing routes, this company has built up the greatest business of the kind ever seen in the 
world, and supplied the American people and others with many thousands of "silent steeds." 

Connecticut not only manufactures almost 
everything needed in modern civilization, but she 
also provides the ingenious machinery for other 
people to manufacture with. One of the foremost 
institutions in this department is the Pratt & Whit- 
ney Company, whose works at Hartford employ 
825 men (with an annual pay-roll of $500,000), 
making standard sizes and forms in gauges and 
reamers, taps and dies, automatic grain-weighers, 
forging machinery, machinists' tools for power 
and hand use, and a great number of other articles, its mere catalogue occupying hundreds 
of pages. From this establishment comes the entire working-plant of sewing-machine and 
gun factories. It supplied the German imperial gun-works at Spandau, Erfurt, and Danzig 
with admirable and costly plants; and has sent to Europe over $3,000,000 worth of tools 
and machinery. The company also makes for the United-States Government the Ilotchkiss 
_-— , rapid-fire guns ; and owns and manufactures the famous Gard- 
ner machine gun. With the co-operation of eminent scientific 
persons, and the United-States Coast Survey, this corporation 
after delicate and exhaustive comparisons constructed a ma- 
chine foi absolutely exact and uniform measurements, down to 
I 50,000 of an inch. Up to that time American yards and feet 
were of an endless variety of lengths. 

The stamped envelopes which bear 
American letters all over the world are all 
made in the fair Connecticut Valley, by 
the Plimpton Manufacturing Company, of 
Hartford, and the Morgan Envelope Com- 
pany, of Springfield, in association. The 
first-named, founded by Linus B. Plimp- 
ton, in 1865, and incorporated in 1873, is 
now the largest producer of envelopes in 
the world, employing 500 operatives, and 
with a yearly output valued at .$1, 500,000. 
Nearly a billion envelopes are made in the Plimpton factories every year, 600,000,000 of them 
being for the Government. The marvellous mechanism and labor-saving contrivances in- 
vented and used in these processes turn out precise and perfect work at a great saving from 

handicraft, and are so carefully patented by the , 

company that no one else can use them, or 
make envelopes so good and so cheaply. 

At Middletown is the famous establish- 
ment of W. & B. Douglass, the oldest and most 
extensive manufacturers in the world of pumps 
and other hydraulic machines. No other house 
approaches its line of cistern and house force 
pumps, hydraulic rams, yard hydrants and hy- 
draulic machinery. These goods have received 
the highest awards — gold and silver medals — middletown ; w. & 9, douglass. 




HARTFORD : PLIMPTON MANUFACTURING CO. 






142 



KING'S TIAhWBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



at the World's Expositions in Europe, America, and Australia. The Douglass cistern 
and house pumps are generally used in every country of the globe. The plant covers four 
acres, and the group of substantial brick buildings gives employment to 250 men. The busi- 
ness was founded in 1832 by William and Benjamin Douglass, and has always remained in 
the family, although it is nominally a stock company, with a capital of $600,000, and a sur- 
plus which gives to the establishment a value exceeding $1,000,000. Here are made 1,500 
different styles of pumps and hydraulic rams, covering every use for houses, factories or farms. 
The best representative of the enterprise, ingenuity, and perseverance of Connecticut was 
rhineas T. Barnum, whose museum, menagerie, hippodromes, and other public entertain- 
ments, have been the delight of two generations, in both the New World and the Old 
World. Other countries may question whether any of our generals, discoverers, poets, or 
historians have attained the first rank among the great men of the world, but all admit that 
America has produced the most illustrious showman of all time. The key-note of his career 
was sounded in his own cheery words : " The noblest art is that of making others happy," 
and for half a century he practiced this precept, to the benefit of millions of people. 
Born at Bethel, Conn, (in the year 1810), the son of a farmer and tavern-keeper, he showed 
in childhood a great aversion to agricultural labor, and a great liking and a special aptitude 
for business. At the age of 15, fatherless and poor, he was thrown upon his own resources 
and was successively clerk in a store, editor of a paper, village storekeeper, and exhibitor 
of Joice Heth, the alleged nurse of Washington. This last venture decided his vocation, 
and he became the head of a small travelling company of performers, and a showman. In 
1840 he bought the American Museum, in New York, and since that time the magnitude of 
his undertakings and successes was amazing, and made him the pride of the American 
people, and won for him the personal favor of the sovereigns of Great Britain and France, 
and countless other dignitaries. His best known achievements include the discovery, 
naming and exhibiting of General Tom Thumb ; the bringing of Jenny Lind to America ; 
the jnirchase of Jumbo ; the organizing in (1874) of " Barnum's Greatest Show on Earth ; " 
and liie transporting of the same to and from London, in the winter of 1889-90. "The 

Greatest Show 
on Earth " trav- 
els all over the 
United States 
and Canada, in 
74 freight cars, 
and a Pullman 
train, moving 
by night, and 
giving perform- 
ances, in tents seating 25,000 people, at all cities of more than 40,000 inhabitants. The 
winter-quarters, at Bridgeport, include elephant houses, where 40 elephants are luxuriously 
housed and trained ; a lion and tiger house, kept at the required high temperature ; quarters 
for camels and caged animals ; a sea-lion and hippopotamus house, containing a great 
pond, artificially heated ; chariot and train houses ; blacksmith, paint, and carpenter shops ; 
and a inactice-ring for riders and acrobats. Uinvards of 82,000,000 tickets have been sold 
for the Barnum exhibitions. This versatile Connecticut genius won other laurels than 
those of a showman. Of the books he wrote, more than a million copies have been sold. 
He lectured before the largest and best audiences in America and luirope. He laid out . 
and built up the eastern half of Bridgeport. As a member of the Connecticut Legislature 
for several terms, and as Mayor of Bridgeport, he made an enviable official record. Bridge- 
port was Mr. Barnum's home for 45 years, and its parks, cemeteries, boulevards, and public 
institutions, foundctl by his generosity, and advanced by his wise supervision, bear witness 
to his practic.nl philanthrojiy. 




BRIDGEPORT WINTER QUARTERS; OF BARNL. 



BAILEY S CIRCUS 




3i 1,762 

2,oi;o 

I 

604 

3 

I 

28 

160 

323 



5T0RY. 

The Delaware aborigines 

were of the Leni-Lenape 
' stock, and included the 

Minqiias, on the Iron Hills, 

and the Nanticokes, in the 

lowlands of the south. The 

former migrated nearly two 

centuries ago ; the latter in 

1748. llendrick Hudson 
discovered Delaware Bay, in 1609, while hunting for the 
short cut to China, but put to sea when he reached shoal 
water ; and a year later Capt. Argall sailed up the lone- 
ly expanse. The first white settlers were De Vries and 
32 Hollanders, who founded a colony near the site of 
Lewes, in 1631. These pioneers all suffered massacre by 
the Indians. In 1638 Peter Minuit was sent out by Queen 
Christina to found here "a country in which every man 
should be free to worship God as he chose." He built 
Fort Christina, on the site of Wilmington, and garrisoned 
it with sturdy Swedes and Finns. The country received 
the name of A'ya Sveriga (New Sweden) ; and for many 
years the peninsula remained under Swedish rule. In 
165 1 Gov. Stuyvesant came around from New Amster- 
dam, and erected Fort Casimir, on the site of New Castle, 
to hold these Baltic men in check ; but on Trinity Sunday 
of 1654 they swarmed into the new fortress, and raised 
over it the banner of Sweden. Finally, however, the 
Dutch conquered and annexed the province, and all the 
Swedes who refused to accept their rule were shipped back 
to Europe. Together with New Amsterdam, Delaware 
passed, in 1664, from Dutch rule to that of the Duke of 
York, by whom, in 1682, it was granted to William Penn, 
and its delegates entered the Pennsylvania Legislature, the 
" Three Counties on Delaware " remaining under the Penn 

proprietary government until 1775, although after 1702 they had a distinct assembly. Del- 
aware entered earnestly into the Revolution, and sent into the field a splendid Continental 
regiment, besides many militiamen under Gen. Rodney. Lord Beresford, in the Roebuck, 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at ... . Wilmington. 

Settled in 1638 

Founded by .... Swedes. 
One of the original 13 States. 
Population, in i860, . , . 112,216 

In 1870, 125,015 

In 1880 146,608 

White 120, 160 

Colored 26,448 

American born, . . . 137,140 

Foreign-born 9,468 

Males, 74,108 

Females 72,500 

In 1890 (U. S. census), , . 168,493 
Population to the square mile, 74 8 
Voting Population (1880), . 38,298 
Vote for Harrison (1888), . 12,973 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 16,414 
Net State Debt (1890), 
Area (square miles), . . 
U. S. Representatives (1893) 
Militia (Disciplined), . . , 

Counties, 

Cities, 

Hundreds 

Post-offices 

Railroads (miles), . . . 
Manufactures (yearly), $50,000,000 
Farm Land (in acres), . . 1,100,000 
P'arm Land \'alues, . $37,000,000 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . . $71,000,000 
Average School Attendance, 22,000 

News|)apers, 39 

Latitude, . . . 38° 28' to 39° 50' 
Longitude, .... 75° '" 75" 46' 

Temperature, 1° to 98° 

Mean Temperature (Lewes), 540 

ii;n chief placfs and their pop- 

ui.ATioKS. (Census of 1890.) 

Wilmington, 61,431 

New Castle, 4,010 

Dover, 3,061 

Smyrna, 2,455 

Laurel 2,388 

Seaford 1,462 

Middlelown, 1,454 

Ceorgetown 1,353 

South Milford, 1,3.39 

Milford, 1,226 



144 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CAPE HENLOPEN AND REHOBOTH BEACH. 



bombarded Lewes ; and an odd 
little battery was set up afterwards 
before the town, which still faces 
the sea. Washington's army lay 
about Wilmington before the bat- 
tle of Brandywine, but the British 
took Newark and Wilmington. 
Delaware was one of the original 
13 States, and the first to ratify 
the constitution which formed the 
American Union. Therefore, upon 
occasions when the States are represented as States, she leads the right of the line. After 
the Secession movement began, the commissioners of Mississippi addressed the Delaware 
Legislature, urging the commonwealth to join the Southern States. This she refused to 
do, and sent into the National army nine regiments of infantry, a battalion of cavalry, and 
a light battery, whose services were marked by great valor. 

The Name of the State commemorates Lord De la Warr. Sir Roger La Warr cap- 
tured the King of France, at the battle of Poitiers, in 1356 ; and two centuries later one 
of his descendants fought so bravely at the siege of St. Quintin that he was created Lord 
De la Warr. His son married Queen Anne Boleyn's grand-niece, and among their chil- 
dren was the third Lord De la Warr, the first Governor of Virginia. Capt. Argall, a 
Virginian navigator, named Delaware Bay in honor of his chief, and this title gradually 
passed to the peninsula. It is sometimes entitled The Diamond State, from its small 
size and great value. Delawareans are called The Blue Hell's Chickens. Capt. Caldwell, 
of her Continental Line, and a famous cock-fighter, maintained that no cock was game 
unless it came from a blue hen. He was also an admirable disciplinarian, and made his 
command one of the most efficient in Washington's army. They won the title of Caldwell's 
Game-cocks, and subsequently of The Blue Hoi's Chickens ; and so the army men got in 
the way of calling every Delawarean a Blue Hen's Chicken. 

The Arms of Delaware bear a sheaf of wheat and an ear of corn, proper, in the upper 
part, and an ox, proper, in the lower. The crest is a ship under full sail, displaying the 
American flag. The supporters are a rifleman and a husbandman. The motto of the State 
is Liberty and Independence. 

The Governors have- been: S^aedish : Peter Minuit, 1638-41 ; Peter HoUendare, 
1641-2; John Printz, 1642-53; John Papegoya, 1653-4; John Rising, 1654-5; Dutch: 
Peter Stuyvesant. English Colonial: Wm. Penn, 1700-21 ; Sir Wm. Keith, 1721-6; Pat- 
rick Gordon, 1726-38; George Thomas, 1738-45; James Hamilton, 1745-54, and 
1760-5; R. H. Morris, 1 754-60; John Penn, 1765-8, and 1773-7; Richard Penn, 
1768-73; John McKinley, 1777-8; Cxsar Rodney, 1778-82; John Dickinson, 1782-3; 
John Cook, 1783; Nicholas Van Dyke, 1 783-6; Thomas Collins, 1786-9. State: 
Joshua Clayton, 1789-96; Gunning Bedford, 1796-7; Daniel Rogers, 1797-8 ; Richard 
Bassett, 1798-1801 ; James Sykes (acting), 
1801-2; David Hall, 1802-5; Nathaniel 
Mitchell, 1805-8; George Truitt, 1808-11; 
Joseph Hazlett, 1811-14, and 1823; Daniel 
Rodney, 1814-17; John Clark, 1817-20; 
Jacob Stout (acting), 1820-I ; John Collins, 
1821-2; Caleb Rodney (acting), 1822-3; 
C. Thomas (acting), 1823-4; Samuel Paynter, 
1824-7; Charles Polk, 1827-30 ; Dayid Haz- 
zard, 1830-3 ; Caleb P. Bennett, 1 833-7 ; C. 
P. Comegys, 1837-40 ; William B. Cooper, brandywine river. 




THE STATE OF DELAWARE. 



145 




WILMINGTON : MONUMENT PLACE. 



1S40-4; Thomas Stockton, 1844-6; Joseph Maul (acting), 1846; William Temple, 1846; 
William Thorp, 1846-51; William H. Ross, 1851-5; Peter F. Causey, 1855-9; William 
Burton, 1859-63; William Cannon, 1863-5; Gove Saulsbury, 1865-71 ; James Ponder, 
1871-5; John P. Cochran, 1875-9; John W. Hall, 1879-83; Charles C. Stockley, 1883-7; 
Benjamin T. Biggs, 1887-91 ; and Robert J. Reynolds, 1891-5. 

Descriptive.— Delaware is the smallest State in the Union, except Rhode Island, being 
but 93 miles in length, with a breadth varying from nine to 38 miles. The northern 
part is a fertile hill-country, with rapid streams flowing in deep valleys, oak and chestnut 
forests, granite and limestone ledges, and profitable deposits 
of porcelain-clay and iron-ore. It is a continuation of the 
lovely Chester County of Pennsylvania, with its grassy up- 
lands. South of the Christiana the State is nearly 
level, having a plateau, or sand ridge, 70 feet high and 
several miles wide, following the western side. In 
Kent, eastward of the forest, lie 180,000 acres of rich 
alluvial "neck" land, with 60,000 acres of tidal 
marshes, some of which are dyked and reclaimed. 
Much of the south is a light sandy soil, bordered by 
lagoons, and melting off into the Cypress Swamp, cov- 
ering 50,000 acres, filled with game, and pierced by 
salty inlets abounding in the finest fish and oysters. The marshy and clayey bay-shore is 
succeeded along the Atlantic by long and narrow sandy ridges, enclosing shallow lagoons, 
like Rehoboth Bay and Indian-River Bay, from three to five feet deep. The favorite sea- 
side resorts are Rehoboth Beach, between the pine woods and the surf ; Woodland, Bowers' 
and Collins Beaches, farther up the bay ; and two or three other locally famous summer 
resting-places, with large hotels and cottages. 

Delaware Bay is 13 miles wide between Cape Henlopen and Cape May ; 25 miles 
in the middle ; and three miles wide at Delaware City. The channel is tortuous, 
but has from 25 to 75 feet of water, and is the avenue of a vast commerce. Shad, 
herring, rock-fish, perch, sea-trout, sunfish, weakfish, croakers, spot, sheepshead, bass, 
terrapin, soft-shell crabs, and oysters abound in these waters ; and the drum-fish of Mis- 
pillion, the milletts beyond Henlopen, and the lobsters and blackfish of the Breakwater 
are well known. Brandywine Creek comes down from Pennsylvania with valuable water- 
powers, and meets the navigable Christiana Creek at Wilmington. The chief of the other 
streams are Smyrna River, St. Jones River (navigable to Dover, the State capital). Murder- 
kill, Mispillion River (navigable eight miles, to Milford), Broadkill, Indian River, and Broad 
River (navigable ten miles, to Laurel). The rivers of Sussex, once navigable for frigates, 
have been destroyed by the slow advance of the sand-dunes, which have buried many 
leagues of farm-lands. The Pocomoke, Choptank and Nanticoke rivers rise in Delaware, 
and flow across eastern Maryland into Chesapeake Bay. There are many estuaries along 

the coast, visited by small coasting craft, carry- 
ing away grain and sweet potatoes, oysters and tim- 
ber. The proximity of Delaware and Chesapeake 
Bays gives great equability to the climate, and 
the winters are so short and mild that in the south 
cattle need little shelter. The north is colder, 
but very healthy, while the south suffers some- 
what from intermittent fevers. 

Agriculture. — The 9,000 Delaware farms are 

valued at $37,000,000, and produce yearly 4,000,- 

000 bushels of corn, 1,200,000 bushels of wheat, 

WILMINGTON : OLD SWEDES CHURCH. with oats aud sorghum, and vast quantities of 




146 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




berries and dairy products. In Kent, many tomatoes 
are raised and canned ; and the north yields corn 
and amber wheat. Grapes and melons are exported, 
and 7,000,000 quart-baskets of strawberries yearly. 
The soil for ten miles in from the bay is rich, but 
beyond that limit it contains sand, and requires fer- 
tilizing. Amid the broad estates of the gentlemen- 
farmers, in an air of affluent peace, countless vine- 
yards and orchards cover the country with lovely 
purple and crimson hues. Delmar, Laurel, Clayton, 
Wyoming, Seaford, Bridgeville, Georgetown, Mil- 
ford, Harrington and Smyrna are among the shipping-points of the 55,000 acres of peaches. 
This fruit is of Persian origin, and attains its highest perfection on the Chesapeake penin- 
sula. The trees are short-lived, and very sensitive to frosts, and of late years they have 
been seriously menaced by the destructive blight known as "the yellows." Maj. Reybold 
founded the industry of growing peaches for the general market, near Delaware City, just 
before l85o. In a single year the railway has carried 10,000 car-loads of peaches and 
1,000 car-loads of berries. In 1888, the peninsula shipped 3,177,477 baskets (each five 
eighths of a bushel) of peaches. In 20 years, 55,000,000 baskets were produced here. 
Vast quantities are also freighted on vessels, or used in the canneries and evaporating works. 
The unprofitableness of the fruit and grain crops of the past few years has caused an im- 
mense depreciation in land-values, and farms are worth in some cases much less than they 
were a century ago, in the early days of the Republic. 

Along the cliffs of the Brandywine there are several large quarries of tenacious and even- 
grained granite.- The abundant clays and kaolins of Wilmington are made up into bricks, 
terra-cotta, and crockery. These works employ 350 men. The fine spar quarried near 
Wilmington is used in making artificial teeth. 

Government. — The governor serves four years, and appoints the judges and executive 
and county officers (except sheriffs and coroners), but has no veto power. The General 
Assembly, of three senators and seven representatives from each county, meets at Dover in 
January of each odd-numbered year. The National Guard includes a regiment of infantry 
and two troops of cavalry. There is a Gatling-gun squad, and the Delaware-college cadets 
have a two-gun battery. Yearly encampments are held, at Rehoboth, Brandywine Springs, 
and elsewhere. Delaware owns interest-paying securities exceeding the amount of her 
liabilities, and is therefore practically out of debt, and does not assess or tax real or per- 
sonal property for State purposes. Its revenue is derived from general business licenses, 
bank stock and capital, and insurance companies. The railroads pay a lump sum to the 
State of above $80,000 a year, in lieu of other taxes. The Delaware townships are called 
"hundreds," after an English custom older than King Alfred's day, and the county repre- 
sentative boards are called Levy Courts. More than half the population dwells in the little 
north county. One sixteenth of the people are foreigners, and one sixth are colored. Only 
— •■ one third dwell on farms. Convicts are kept in the 

county jails, paupers in the county almshouses, and 
blind, idiotic and deaf-mute children in Pennsylvanian 
training-schools. Every county jail has its pillory 
and whipping-post, where condign punishment falls 
upon the backs of male thieves and other felons. 

Education has greatly improved since the act of 
■ 1875, and is paid for by local taxation and the rev- 
^ ^enue of a State fund begun in 1796, from the pro- 
ceeds of marriage and tavern licenses, and augmented 
WILMINGTON: HIGH SCHOOL. in 1 836 by Delaware's share of the United-States 




THE ST A TE OF DEL A WARE. 



147 



^ ,— 




WILMINGTON 



Treasury surplus. Colored people's school-taxes are ^ 
set apart for 4,000 colored children, in the ^a^^^ 
70 schools under the voluntary Delaware 2'- " 
Association for the Education of the 
Colored People, which receive also 
State appropriations. Delaware Col- 
lege, founded in 1833, at Newark, "The Athens of 
Delaware," near the Iron Hills, became a State col- 
lege in 1S70, and has since had periods of prosperity 
and depression, but is now improving. The institution has seven professors and lOO stu- 
dents, and maintains military drill, under the direction of an army officer. The Agricult- 
ural Experiment Station is connected with the college. The Friends' School, at Wilming- 
ton, dates from 1748, and has eight instructors and 1S5 students. The Academy of New- 
ark opened in 1768, and has 100 pupils. The Wilmington Conference Academy, at Dover, 
is a prosperous Methodist school. The chief libraries are the Wilmington Institute, founded 
in 1787, and the State Library, founded in 1793, each with 16,000 volumes. Delaware has 
six daily newspapers (four English and two German), all at Wilmington, and 30 weeklies. 

The Methodists have 166 churches in Delaware ; the Presbyterians 32, the Episcopalians 
27, and the Catholics, Ericnds and Baptists eight each. 

National Institutions. — The United-States Government finished the great Delaware 
Breakwater in 1S28. It has a surf-breaker of 2, 748 feet, and an ice-breaker of 1,710 feet, and 
stretches into the sea like a mighty black arm, protecting yearly many thousands of vessels. 
To the southward projects Cape Henlopen, with a long white beach, and lonely sand-dunes 
and landward marshes. Fort Delaware, near Delaware City, mounts 155 guns, but is not 
garrisoned. Lewes is a quaint old maritime hamlet, the headquarters of the Delaware-Bay 
pilots. There are 18 light-houses on the coast, with a supply depot at Edge Moor. There 
is a tradition that the Dutch Greenland Company planted the flag of Holland at Lewes in 
1598, and placed a colony here 24 years later. In view of its marshes, John Randolph of 
Roanoke once said that the Delaware senators represented three counties at low tide, and 
one county at high tide. Jefferson called Delaware "the diamond in the coronation of 
States " (whence its pet name). 

Chief Cities. — Wilmington, the metropolis of the State, lies upon both sides of the 
Christiana River and the rapid Brandywine. Both are tide-water streams, and the 
Christiana serves as an excellent harbor. The city occupies a gently rolling upland, 
and is steadily extending over the diked and drained meadows to the Delaware River, 
which flows along its eastern boundary for a league. At this point, 65 miles from the 
ocean, and 28 miles below Philadelphia, the Delaware has a width of three miles, with 30 
feet of water at mid-tide in its shoalest parts. Wilmington (formerly named Willing-ton) 
was the first permanent European settlement in the valley of the Delaware. It has 



a high-school, with manual training, 23 public schools, 
trie street-cars, a fine water department, a police patrol 
tiful natural park along the Brandywine. The most interest- 
of Delaware is the Old Swedes Church, founded at Wil- 
the recipient of funds from William Penn, a Bible from 
Queen Anne, and a communion service from the miners of 
Sweden. It belongs to the Episcopalians, and its ivy-clad- 
brick walls rise amid an ancient graveyard. Dover, the cap- 
ital, is an ancient and pleasant town, with wide and 
shadowy streets and a mild climate, six miles from Del- 
aware Bay. In the old Episcopal church-yard a tall gran- 
ite monument was raised, in 1889, to Gen. Ccesar Rodney, 
the Revolutionary patriot. Fruit-canning centres here, 



electric lights, elec- 
system, and a beau- 
ing of the antiquities 
mington in 1698, and 




WILMINGTON : COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 



148 



RVNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



and the delicious canned plum-pudding of Dover is shipped 
j-^n^V lo England and France. New Castle, one of the quaintest 

of ancient boroughs, was named for and colonized by the 
j(., ^ city of Amsterdam, and then captured by Sir Robert Carr, 




WILMINGTON 



& B. STATION. 



who sold its Dutch garrison for slaves in Virginia, 
It is on the bay, five miles below Wilmington. 

The Railroads of Delaware converge at Wil- 
mington, through which pass the Pennsylvania and 
Baltimore & Ohio lines, each running southwest- 
ward from Philadelphia to Baltimore and Washington. The Pennsylvania Company 
leases the Delaware Railroad, running from Wilmington to Delmar and beyond, with 
branches to the Maryland ports on the Chesapeake, and to Delaware City, Bombay Hook, 
Lewes, Rehoboth, Ocean City, and other points. 

The Chesapeake & Delaware Canal was finished in 1829. It has cost $3,800,000, and 
runs for 13^ miles across the neck between the heads of the two great bays. It is nine feet 
deep, with two tide and two lift locks, having a rise and fall of 32 feet ; and is in constant use. 
The Manufactures of Delaware amount to over $50,000,000 a year, their most notable 
feature being Wilmington's iron steamships, built for the Long-Island Sound and Hudson- 
River lines, the Morgan, Cromwell and Pacific-Mail lines, and the routes from Boston to 
New York, Philadelphia and Baltimore. Several war-ships have been built here ; and also 
the yachts Volunteer, Priscilla, Electra, and N^otinnahal. ,. 

Wilmington also has immense car-shops ; and near by are 
the DuPont Mills, the largest gunpowder-making plant in 
the world, founded in the year 1802. 

Wilmington is in communication with the coal and iron 
country of Pennsylvania, and the local iron and steel works 
employ 6,000 men, and produce yearly $11,000,000. 
Other industries, cotton, paper, pulp, carriages, and ships, 
engage 1 1,000 persons, with a yearly output of $27,000,000. 
The favorable quality of the Brandywine water has drawn 
to Wilmington 2,000 workers in morocco and leather, whose product is $5,000,000 a year. 
The Edge Moor Bridge Works are close to Wilmington, on the Delaware River, and 
employ 700 men. The grounds cover 25 acres, and the punching, forging, riveting, 
machine and blacksmith shops, and the offices and steam-plant and electric-light plant build- 
ings, are substantial structures of brick and stone. Here also are the latest improved machin- 
ery and most complete appliances for the manufacture of all kinds of structural iron and 
steel work. A large portion of the machinery has been specially designed for these works ; 
and the Edge Moor Company first introduced the hydraulic riveting of compressive members, 
and the hydraulic forging of tensile members. Metal roof frames, structural work of iron 
and steel, and railway turn-tables are made here. But the chief industry of this great estab- 
lishment is the construction of bridges, and among its products have been the East-River 

Bridge, with its 7,000 tons of fitted steel work ; the 
Kentucky-River Bridge, the first cantilever bridge 
in America ; the Susquehanna-River Bridge of the 
Pennsylvania Railroad, the largest double-track 
bridge in the world ; the Northern -Pacific, Sabula 
and Minnehaha bridges, over the Mississippi ; the 
Rulo, Omaha and Sibley bridges, over the Missouri ; 
the Wheeling and Ceredo bridges, over the Ohio ; 
EDGE MOOR BRIDGE WORKS. the James-Rivcr Bridge, at Richmond ; the Sixth- 

avenue Elevated Railroad, in New York ; and the Pennsylvania Railroad's elevated line in 
Philadelphia, the Edge Moor company being both engineers and constructors. 




WILMINGTON 






HI5T0RY. 



STATISTICS. 
Settled at .... Washington. 

Settled in 1663 

Founded by . . . . Englishmen. 

Organized, 1790 

Population in i860, . . . 75,080 
In 1870 131,700 



177,624 

118,006 
59,618 

160,502 
17,122 
83,578 
94,046 

230,392 



The Federal Capital stands 
on the banks of the beautiful 
Potomac River, within reach 
of the salt-sea tides, and be- 
tween the sections which a 
quarter of a century ago 
were sepai^ated by such hos- 
tile interests. Its site was 
bought of the Indians by an 
Englishman named Francis Pope, who settled here in 1663, 
and named the place Rome, calling the creek which flows 
into the Potomac the Tiber, and the elevation on which 
the U. -S. Capitol now stands the Capitoline Hill. This 
eccentric and unconscious prophet used to sign himself 
" Pope of Rome." 

During the Revolution the National Government moved 
from town to town, to avoid the British armies. After the 
war several States claimed the seat of government, to be 
established as defined by the Constitution, not to exceed 
ten miles square, and to remain under the exclusive legis- 
lation of Congress. In 1788-9 Maryland and Virginia 
each offered such districts, and Congress in 1790 accepted, 
specifying the present location. There were two burning 
sectional questions before the Congress of 1 790, one as to 
the payment by the Government of $20,000,000 of war- 
debts, incurred by the individual States (mainly in the 
North) during the Revolution, and the other as to the loca- 
tion of the National capital on the Potomac. The Southern 
Congressmen opposed the former, and the Northerners the 
latter, prefering a site on the Susquehanna or the Delaware. 
Jefferson and Hamilton finally united to secure concessions 
on both sides, whereby the South allowed the financial bill 
to pass, and the North consented to the location of the 
capital on the Potomac. George Washington became 
acquainted with the locality when a youthful surveyor, and again when an officer of Brad- 
dock's army, which encamped at Georgetown. He secured the land from the proprietors, 
to whom the Government deeded back half the city-lots. The obscure Maryland hamlets 



In 1880 

White, ... 
Colored, .... 
American-born, . . 
Foreign-born, . . 

Males 

Females, .... 
In 1890 (U. S. census). 
Population to the square mile, 2,960.4 
Net Public debt, . . . $21,000,000 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (i8go), . . $153,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . 70 

U. S. Representati\-es 
Militia (disciplined). 

Counties, 

Post-offices, . . . 
Railroads (miles), ... 31 

Manufactures (yearly), $12,000,000 
Farm Land (in acres), . . 18,000 
Farm-Land Values, . $3,600,000 
Public Schools, .... 90 

School Children, . . . 30,000 

Newspapers, 65 

Latitude, . . . 38° 51' to 39° N. 
Longitude, . . 76058' to 77=6' W. 

Temperature — 14° to 104° 

Mean Temperature, . . 547° 

CHIEF SECTIONS AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 
The District is now under one 
municipal government, that ofWash- 
ington, with 230,392 inhabitants. 
The part of this covered by old 
Washington has 188,932 inhabitants ; 
old Georgetown, 14.046 ; Mount 
Pleasant, 3,o«o; Anacosiia, 2,000; 
and Brighlwood, 1,000. 



15° 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



of Funkstown, or Hamburg (at Observatory Hill) and CarroUsville (on Arsenal point) were 
blotted out, and the Federal City came into theoretical existence. The magnificent system 
of avenues was planned by Major L'Enfant, and laid out by Surveyor Andrew Ellicott. In 
1 791 the new public domain received the official title of the Territory of Columbia; and 
the Federal City became the City of Washington. 

In 1800, when the city had 3,000 inhabitants, the north wing of the Capitol being 
finished, the public archives were transferred in a sloop from Philadelphia, and Congress held 
its first session here. "The capital of miserable huts" was likened to the Serbonian bog ; 
and Pennsylvania Avenue formed only a cleared line through a morass of alder-bushes. 
In 1 814 a British army of 4,500 men routed the American militia at Bladensburg, and 
occupied Washington, destroying the public buildings. No Government edifices having 
been erected on the western side of the Potomac, Alexandria and Virginia petitioned that that 
part of the District should be retroceded to Virginia ; and this was done, in 1846. 

The city was menaced by the Confederate troops at the outbreak of the civil war, until 
the night of May 23, 1861, when Wood's column crossed the Aqueduct, Heintzelman 
moved over Long Bridge, and Ellsworth occupied Alexandria. During the subsequent war, 
the defenses of Washington consisted of 68 forts, mounting 905 cannon and mortars, with 
93 batteries for field-guns, and 20 miles of rifle-pits. These works covered a perimeter of 
37 miles, and had a garrison of many thousand men. They saved the capital from assault 
after the various reverses of the Federal armies in Virginia ; and in 1864 repelled by their 
guns an attack in force by Gen. Early's army. 

On May 23 and 24, 1865, W^ashington rejoiced in the grandest military display ever 
seen in America, when the bronzed veterans of the National armies marched in review 
past the President. On the first day came the Army of the Potomac, headed by Gen. 
Meade, Merritt's Cavalry Corps, Macy's Provost Guards, Benham's Engineer Brigade, 
Parke's 9th Corps, Dwight's Division of the 19th, Griffin's 5th and Humphrey's 2d. The 
next day Sherman and his men marched through the jubilant streets, with Eogan's Army of 
the Tennessee, containing Hazen's 15th Corps and Blair's 17th, and Slocum's Army of 
Georgia, composed of Mower's 20th Corps and Davis's 14th Corps. 

After 1 87 1 Alexander R. Shepherd, Governor Henry D. Cooke, and other progressive 
citizens of the District, secured the authority to take adequate measures to "lift Washing- 
ton out of the mud." The government thus organized raised money by local taxation and 
by the sale of District bonds, and set an army of laborers to grading and paving, parking 
and tree-planting. Within ten years $25,000,000 were spent in improving the city. As a 
result, Washington rose from a rambling Southern town to the position and dignity of a 
true cosmopolitan city, beautiful in situation and in architecture, and a continental centre 
of scientific and literary culture. Washington received incorporation as a city in 1802, and 
its mayors were elected by the people until 1871, when Congress revoked the charter. The 
District is named in honor of Columbus, the discoverer of America. The only governors 
the District has had were Henry D. Cooke, in 1871-3, and Alexander R. Shepherd, in 

1873-4- 

Descriptive. — Washington lies on the Potomac River, io6j miles from Chesapeake 
Bay, and 185^ miles (by ship-channel) from the ocean, between the Anacostia (or Eastern 
Branch), a broad and shallow tidal river, once navigable to Bladensburg, and Rock Creek, 
a picturesque hill-stream. The undulating surface of the District is surrounded by eleva- 
tions of from 150 to 400 feet, Washington being built within this amphitheatre, with 
Capitol Hill rising to a height of 90 feet. The soil is a fairly fertile light sandy loam and 
clay, resting on cretaceous rocks, and supports about $4,000,000 worth of farms and 
market-gardens. There are many oaks, hickories, pines, chestnuts, butternuts, elms and 
lindens. The climate is healthy, although the summers have the high mean temperature 
of 75°, with southerly winds. A flurry of cold weather occasionally diversifies the mild 
and pleasant winters, but snow does not lie long, and the Potomac freezes across only in 



THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



15T 




WASHINGTON: THE CAPITOL OF THE UNITED STATES. 



152 A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

January. The mean temperature is nearly the same as that of San Francisco. The city 
is farther south than Vienna or Rome. The District is more populous than seven of the 
States and Territories. It has 2, 200 Britons, 3,500 Germans, 8,000 Irishmen, 29,000 
Virginians, 34,000 Marylanders, 6,000 New-Yorkers, 5,600 Pennsylvanians, and 4,500 New 
Englanders. One third of the inhabitants are colored. 

The manufactures are unimportant, except for the well-known flour-mills of George- 
town. The Potomac is navigable for large vessels up to Georgetown. It yields abundantly 
of fine herring, shad, perch, bass, enormous sturgeon and other food-fish. Georgetown is 
the port of entry, but has only slight remains of its ancient commerce with England and 
the West Indies. 472 vessels, of 28,196 tons, are owned here ; and steamboats run to the 
Potomac ports, Norfolk and Baltimore. 

The plan of Washington was designed by the French military engineer, I'Enfant, under the 
advice of Jefferson, who, while in the diplomatic service, had carefully studied the great 
capitals of Europe. It is a successful endeavor to combine the practical straight lines of 
Babylon and Philadelphia with the 
artistic bciuty and grace of Versailles, 
and to fuinibh noble and commandmg 
sites for the public buildings 
ern and west 
ern streets aie 

the 

the 

the 



name 1 for 
letteis of 
alphabet , 




northern and south 
cin streets lie named 
foi figui es md aei nss 
then geomctiieii le^ 
ularit) run 21 1 loi 1 
ei diagonal a\eiiues 
(fi )ni 120 to 160 feet 
wide), named for the States, and forming many 
open squares, eiieles and tiiangles. Moie than 
half the city is in streets and parks, the former 
of which are the widest in the world, and are 
overhung by myriads of fine shade-trees, and 
partly given up to narrow parks. Nearly all 
the residence-streets, covering sixty miles, are paved with asphalt, forming a luxurious and 
durable roadway to drive upon. Massachusetts Avenue is the grandest of the thorough- 
fares, over five miles long, from the Anacostia River to Kalorama Heights and Rock 
Creek, traversing high ground, with an imperial width of 160 feet, and adorned for a full 
league with two rows of overarching lindens on each side. Pennsylvania Avenue is of 
nearly equal length, and its section leading from the shining colonnades of the Capitol to 
the noble temple-front of the Treasury Department is the main street of the city. It is 
one of the brightest, laziest and most historic and interesting streets in America, and 
Washington and Hamilton, Jefferson and Lafayette, Lincoln and Grant have trodden its 
level walks. No other city in the world is so magnificently shaded, for there are upwards 
of 120,000 trees on the 120 miles of its streets. The region northwest of the White 
House was formerly known as "The Slashes," and furnished pasturage for cows, goats and 
geese. It is now one of the handsomest of residence-quarters, covered with modern 



THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



153 




OBSERVATORY. 



brick and stone houses of distinctive character, the foreign legations, and homes of senators 
and cabinet-officers, set amid green lawns and beds of bright flowers. 

In 1 87 1 the city and county governments were replaced by a Territorial government, with 
a Governor, a board of public works, and a legislature, and a delegate in Congress. The 
enormous debt incurred by the Board of Public Works, in transforming and improving the 
city, caused Congress to break up the Territory in 1S74, and vest the municipal executive 
powers in three commissioners, two of whom are civilians and one a U. -S. Engineer 
officer, appointed by the President. There is a Supreme Court of six justices, with other 
tribunals and officials. The law is the common law of England, with enactments of the 
State of Maryland, modified by acts of Congress and the several local municipal govern- 
ments which have been in force here. Residents of the Dis- 
trict have no right to vote on National or local questions ; yet, 
the municipality is the best governed in America. The legis- 
lative power rests entirely in Congress. The District Court 
House was built in 1820-49, and served until 1871 for the city 
hall. The debt is in a sinking-fund, of which the Treasurer 
of the United States is commissioner. The revenues arise 
from taxes levied on private property and privileges, to which 
Congress adds an equal amount by appropriations. The yearly 
expenses of the District amount to over $5,000,000. 

The water-supply comes from the Potomac, above Great Falls, fourteen miles distant, 
and is capable of giving Washington a more copious supply than any other city in America 
receives. The largest stone arch on the continent carries this aqueduct across Cabin- John 
Creek. The city markets are famed for their profusion and cheapness of provisions, and 
draw their supplies largely from the Maryland and Virginia farms. 

The schools are very efficient and successful, and attendance is general. There are dif- 
ferent public schools for white and colored children. Columbian University was opened in 
1822, and has classical, medical and law departments, with 20 professors and 323 students. 
It occupies an imposing structure of brick and terra cotta, with handsome lecture-halls and 
museums, not far from the Treasury Department. Howaid University was founded in 
1867, mainly for colored persons, and has collegiate, theological, law, medical, commercial, 
normal and preparatory schools, with nearly 500 students. Georgetown University was 
founded by Bishop Carroll in 1789, and is prosperous and finely equipped, with classical, 
medical and law schools, 61 instructors and 550 students (largely from the South), a 
library of 45,000 volumes, and a magnificent site on the heights above Georgetown, look- 
ing dovra the Potomac for many miles. It is the oldest Catholic college in the United 
States, and has a corps of learned Jesuit professors. Gonzaga College is a Jesuit high- 
school, founded in 1858, with 150 students. The ~^ . - .. ^ . , Catholic University of 

America, incorporated in 1885, occupies a beau- 
tiful site of 65 acres on the highlands near the 
Soldiers' Home. The first department opened (m 
1889) was that of divinity, with 7 professors and 
an endowment of $500,000. The Paulists have 
a house of studies here, and will be followed by 
other religious orders, forming a mediaeval city 
of scholastics. The Methodists bought in 1890 a 
tract of 90 acres near Oak View, for the site of a 
National university. There are several other semina- 
ries and schools of law, pharmacy and theology. The 
city has nearly 150 churches, 40 Methodist, 25 Baptist, 
20 Presbyterian, 18 Episcopalian and 12 Cathohc. 
Among the Episcopal churches are St. Paul's, at Rock 




154 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CATHOLIC UNIVERSITY OF AMERICA. 



Creek, founded in 1719 ; Christ, near the Navy Yard, founded in 1795, and the church of 
Jefferson and Monroe; and St. John's, near the White House, founded in 1816, and 
attended by Madison, Jackson and Arthur. The First Presbyterian Church was attended 
by Jackson, Polk, Pierce and Cleveland, and also by Webster, Benton, Houston and other 
statesmen. The New-York Avenue Presbyterian Church was Buchanan's and Lincoln's 
place of worship. Grant worshipped at the Metropolitan Methodist Church ; Hayes at 
the Foundry Methodist Church ; John Quincy Adams at the old Unitarian Church ; 
Garfield at the Christian Church ; and Benjamin Har- 
rison at the Presbyterian Church of the Covenant. 

The Government Hospital for the Insane, on the 
noble heights south of the Anacostia, contains 1,500 
patients, from the army and navy and insane residents 
and temporary residents of the District. It dates 
from 1855, and occupies a cultivated park of 419 
acres. The Columbian Institution for the Deaf and 
Dumb was founded by Amos Kendall, for District 
people and children of soldiers and sailors. Here is the National Deaf-Mute College, the 
only one in the world, with eight teachers and 60 students. Its handsome pointed Gothic 
building of sandstone was erected by the Government in 1870-1, on the pleasant Kendall- 
Green estate of a hundred acres. 

The railroads are the Baltimore & Ohio and the Baltimore & Potomac, both running 
to Baltimore, and the former also passing from Washington westward to the Ohio Valley. 
The famous Long Bridge carries the tracks which unite the Maryland and Virginia railway 
systems. The District has serviceable and far-reaching street-railways, extending across 
the city in every direction, and to various suburban villages. 

By the War Department's Official Table of Distances, on the "shortest usually travelled 
routes," Washington is 230 miles from New York, 458 from Boston, 115 from Richmond, 
673 from Savannah, 1,349 from Key West, 1, 001 from Mobile, 1,110 from New Orleans, 
1,521 from Galveston, 1,829 from ^Brownsville, 553 from Cincinnati, 813 from Chicago, 894 
from St. Louis, 1,223 from St. Paul, 1, 810 from Denver, 2,374 from Salt-Lake City, 3,167 
from San Francisco, 3,122 from Portland (Oregon), and 4,484 from Sitka. 

Amid the grand avenues and parks of Washington rise the magnificent and spacious 
administrative offices of the Government, representing an outlay of above !|i 1 00, 000, 000, 
and forming a group of edifices unrivalled elsewhere. The Capitol of the United States is 
one of the most majestic buildings in the world, in grandeur of form and richness of mate- 
rial, its glistening dome and vast walls and colonnades of Massachusetts and Maryland 
marble rising like a snowy exhalation from the deep green of the surrounding parks, and 
visible from leagues away on the Virginian hills. The old north wing was founded by 
Washington in 1793, and finished in 180D, and the old south wing dates from 1811. De- 
stroyed by the British in 1814, the edifice was rebuilt in 1817-27. In 1851 the architect 
commenced the new extensions, the House occupying the present hall in 1857, and the 
Senate in 1859. The great ' iron dome arose in the terrible years 1856-65. The chief 
architects of the { Capitol were B. H. Latrobe of Maryland, in 1803-17; Charles 
Bulfinch of Massachusetts, in 1817-51 ; Thomas M. Walter of 

Ji Pennsylvania, in 1851-65 ; and Edward Clark of Penn- 

,„.,"''-;l?Sv^l^«^ sylvania. The cost of the Capitol and its furnishings 







has probably exceeded $30,000,000. The first 
troops arriving in Washington early in the Seces- 
sion War converted the building into a fortress, 



^^'^'^s_J-'-^^fe-i^^:i^^i'^L'^y>^^ and during the battle-years work was steadily 

''''^9^^'^^^^^i^(>i~-»-^-y-ri^*^-''*''^^ •"•?'■ carried forward on the Capitol, it being President 
"'^''**'*"""^''*"'' *■*" Lincoln's opinion, that the cessation of these 



GEORGETOWN UNIVERSITY. 



THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



^S5 



constructive labors would dispirit the soldiers of the army. The Capitol stands on the 
western brow of Capitol Hill, with its main front toward the plateau on the east, and the 
other side overlooking the city and its great departmental palaces, the broad estuary of 
the Potomac, and the lonely hills of Virginia. The building is in rich classic architecture, 
and covers three and a half acres, being composed of a central structure, containing the 
Rotunda and Library, and a north wing for the Senate Chamber and a south wing for the 
House of Representatives. Each of these sections has imposing colonnaded porticoes, the 
chief of which, on the eastern side of the central edifice, is the place where the Presidents 
are inaugurated. The dome, 307^ feet high and 135^ feet in diameter (and exceeded in 
size only by St. Peter's, St. Paul's, the Invalides and St. Isaac's), is crowned by a peri- 
styled lantern, above which stands Crawford's majestic bronze statue of Freedom, 19:^ feet 
high. This huge dome contains 4,000 tons of iron, arranged to move during atmospheric 
changes like the folding and unfolding of a lily, and frequently painted a glistening white. 
It overarches the Rotunda, 96 feet in diameter and 180 feet high, adorned with historic 
busts and bas-reliefs and eight large historical paintings, with Brumidi's vivid allegorical 



fresco of the Apotheosis of Washin 
the dome is of wonderful beauty and 
erate forts and troops were visible 
.architectural marvel. The Capitol 
the historic halls of the two 
devoted to the Representatives 




ton overhead. The view from the top cf 

interest. For a long time the Confcd- 

from the unfinished colonnades of this 

is crowded with interesting scenes ; 

houses of Congress (of which that 

is the largest legislative hall in the 




jii" 



THE CAPITOL, FROM THE EAST. 



world) ; the grand porticoes, with their wealth of statuary and Corinthian columns ; the 
bronze doors, unequaled outside of Florence, and covered with statuettes and reliefs, the 
discovery of America, the life of Columbus, the Revolutionary battles, the inauguration of 
Washington; the Library of Congress, the largest in America, containing 640,000 books, 
and abounding in rare treasures of literature; the beautiful Supreme-Court Room, used in 
old times as the Senate Chamber, and now the seat of the highest legal tribunal in 
America ; the sumptuous reception and committee rooms and corridors ; the President's 
Room, the most richly decorated in America ; the Marble Room, of Italian and Tennessee 
marble, called the finest apartment of the kind in the world ; the wonderful marble stair- 
cases of the legislative wings, with their great paintings of Chapultepec, the Battle of Lake 
Erie, and Westward the Star of Empire takes its way ; the huge Doric columns of the 
crypt ; and the National Statuary Hall, an impressive Greek chamber, of noble dimensions, 
adorned by each State with statues of two of its most illustrious sons. This unrivalled 
hall was used by the House of Representatives from 1S08 to 1814, and from 181 7 to 1857, 
and witnessed the triumphs of Webster and Clay, Randolph and Calhoun, Adams and 
Corwin, and other leaders of the Republic. The statues now here are William King of 
Maine ; Ethan Allen and Jacob Collamer of Vermont ; John Winthrop and Samuel Adams 
of Massachusetts ; Williams and Greene of Rhode Island ; Sherman and Trumbull of 
Connecticut ; George Clinton and Livingston of New York ; Stockton and Kearny of New 
Jersey ; Fulton and Muhlenberg of Pennsylvania ; Baker of Oregon ; Garfield and Allen 
of Ohio, and Lewis Cass of Michigan. Here also are David D'Anger's statue of Jefferson, 
Stone's Hamilton, Mrs. Hoxie's Lincoln, and Houdon's Washington. 







156 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

The President conducts the Government administration by nine departments, State, 
Treasury, War, Navy, Interior, Post-Otftce, Justice, Agriculture and Labor, whose heads he 
aj-points, subject to confirmation by the Senate. All but the last belong to the Cabinet. 

The State Department administers the external policy of the Government by nearly 1,300 
persons in consular service and the legations. The so-called Department of Foreign Affairs 
was re-named the Department of State, in 1789, and has charge of the negotiation of 
treaties and diplomatic correspondence, grants passports, and guards the seal of the United 
States. In the event of the President and Vice-President dying in office, the Secretary of 
State succeeds them (Act of 1886). The State, War and Navy Departments occupy an 
enormous quadrangular structure, erected in 1871-88, at a cost of $10,500,000, and the largest 
granite building in the world. It covers four and a half acres, and has twenty acres of 
floor-space. Its huge blocks of light-gray Virginia and Maine granite weigh from half a 
ton to twenty tons each, and will outlast centuries. The State Department occupies the 
^ south wing, built in 1 87 1-5. The original 

5 „ -si^Bfeit. Declaration of Independence and Wash- 

ington's sword and commission are kept 
in this building. The heads of the 
State Department have been Jefferson, 
Randolph, Pickering, Marshall, Madison, 
Smith, Monroe, Adams, Clay, Van Buren, 
Livingston, McLane, Forsyth, Webster, 
3|;!l?il4^i^:®^=£s^t7' Legare, Upshur, Nelson, Calhoun, Bu- 
STAxi, WAR AND NAVY DEPARTMENTS. chanan, Clayton, Everett, Marcy, Cass, 

Black, Seward, Washburne, Fish, Evarts, Frelinghuysen, Bayard and Blaine. 

The Treasury Department cost $8,000,000, and covers an area of 5S2 by 300 feet, 
including two enclosed courts. The east front was built in 1836-41, with a colonnade in 
the style of the Athenian temple of Minerva Pallas ; and the other three fronts arose in 
1855-69, in noble Ionic architecture, with broad porticoes and many huge monolithic 
pillars. The material of these three fronts is Maine biotite granite, in cyclopean blocks ; 
and the Cash Room is lined with rare marble from Vermont, Tennessee, Italy and the 
Pyrenees. The huge vaults of steel and chilled iron contain the National-Bank bonds and 
scores of millions of dollars in silver and gold coin. The Department of the Treasury 
was organized in 1789, and has charge of the finances of the Republic, mints, currency, 
internal revenue, customs, receipts, life-saving service, steamboat inspection, marine hospi- 
tals, light-houses, statistics, and the coast and geodetic survey. It employs over 16,000 
persons, 2,500 of them in the department proper. Among its chiefs have been Hamilton, 
Gallatin, Crawford, Rush, Woodbury, Guthrie, Cobb, Chase, McCuUoch, Boutwell, Bristow, 
Sherman, Manning, Fairchild and Windom. 

The War Department occupies the central and the northern and western wings (built in 
1878-89) of the vast granite palace where the State Department dwells, and has 1,500 
clerks and 3,000 men employed 
outside. This is also the head- 
quarters of the Army, consisting 
of 27,000 men, in ten regiments of 
cavalry, five of artillery, and 25 of 
infantry, and distributed over the 
Military Divisions of the Atlantic, 
the Missouri (including the Depart- 
ments of the Platte and Dakota), 
and the Pacific (Departments of 
California and the Columbia), 
and the independent Departments 




UNITED-STATES TREASURY DEPARTMENT. 



THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



157 




INTERIOR department: THE PATENT OFFICE. 



of Arizona, the Missouri and Texas, which report direct to Army headquarters. The Divi- 
sion of the Atlantic includes Louisiana and all the States east of the Mississippi River, 
except Illinois. The Secretary of War arranges all details of the military service, trans- 
portation, and the purchase of supplies for the army. The Quartermaster-General and 
1,800 employees see to the ti:ansportation, clothing and quarters of the Army; the Com- 
missary-General and 70 men provide subsistence for the troops ; the Surgeon-General has 
1,000 persons to help him, and the Paymaster-General has 140. The Chief of Engi- 
neers looks to the fortifications, rivers and harbors, and bridges ; the Chief of Ordnance 
is in care of the artillery, arsenals, weapons and munitions ; the Judge-Advocate General 
is in charge of the Bureau of Military Justice. The Adjutant-General and his 200 officials 
regulate the correspondence, recruiting and gen- 
eral discipline of the Army ; and the Inspec- 
tor-General inspects forts and posts, accounts, 
personnel and materiel of the Army. Among 
the heads of the War Department have been 
Knox, Pickering, McHenry, Dexter, Dearborn, 
Eustis, Armstrong, Monroe, Crawford, Cal- 
houn, Barbour, Porter, Eaton, Cass, Poinsett, 
Marcy, Cameron, Stanton, Belknap, Endicott 
and Proctor. 

The Navy Department, in the eastern wing (built in 1872-9), supervises the American 
fleets, their building and equipment, manning and employment. The bureaus are those of 
Yards and Docks, Navigation, Ordnance, Equipment, Provisions and Clothing, Medicine 
and Surgery, Construction and Repair, and Steam Engineering. The Naval Observatory, 
with a Warner & Swasey telescope, the Hydrographic Office and the Nautical-Almanac 
Office are also under the Navy Department. There are 250 clerks in the department, and 
3,800 employees outside. The Navy includes 8,250 sailors and 2,000 marines, in 80 
vessels, carrying 300 gims. The fleets remained under the direction of the Secretary of 
War until 1798, when the Department of the Navy came into being, and the Marine Corps 
was organized. Among its heads have been Crowninshield, Dickerson, Paulding, Upshur, 
Bancroft, Mason, Toucey, Welles, Robeson, Chandler, Whitney and Tracy. 

The Interior Department covers two squares, nearly midway between the Capitol and 
the White House, with its immense and massive facades and porticoes, in the Doric style, 
and mainly of glistening white Maryland marble. This edifice is one of the finest in 
Washington, and usually bears the name of the Patent Office, because its great halls contain 
myriads of inventors' models. 

The Interior Department has nearly 10,000 persons in its service, under the Commissioners 
of Patents, Pensions, General Land-Office, Indian Affairs, 
Education, Railroads, Geological Survey, Inter-State Com- 
merce, Pacific Railways and the Census. The south front 
of the structure dates from 1836-40, and the rest from 1S49- 
67. The building contains 191 rooms, and cost $2,700,000. 
The Department of the Interior dates from 1849, ^"'i ^^as 
numbered among its chiefs McClelland, Usher, Delano, 
Chandler, Schurz, Lamar and Noble. The earliest legis- 
lation about patents occurred in 1 790; and the first Com- 
missioner of Patents received his appointment in 1836. 
The Patent Office has no equal in the world, and admirably 
shows forth the ingenuity and enterprise of the American 
people. 

The Post-Office Department occupies a rich and ornate 
Corinthian structure of white marble, begun in 1839, oppo- 




INTERIOR CONGRESSIONAL LIBRARY. 



i5« 



A'/.VCrS irANDBOOk' OF TIfK UNITED STATES. 




UNITED-STATES POST-OFFICE. 



site llic I'atciil Office. It has 600 clerks, anil an outside force of nearly one hundred and 
fifty tiiousand persons, including 63,000 postmasters (handling 4,000,000,000 pieces yearly), 
and 6,000 persons in the railway mail service. The IIO clerks in the Dead-Letter Office 
yearly treat above 6,500,000 pieces of mail-matter. The department began operations in 
1789, and the Postmaster-General first became a Cabinet officer in 1829, in Jackson's admin- 
istration. Among its chiefs have been Pickering, Habersham, Granger, Meigs, Kendall, 
Cami)bell, Blair, Creswell, Jewell, Vilas and Wanamaker. 

The Department of Agriculture began its labors in 1862, and distributes yearly among 
the people over 1,200,000 jiackages of seeds, and myriads of vines and plants, besides several 

hundred thousand volumes of reports. It occu- 
pies a spacious and attractive building, in Renais- 
sance architecture, on the Mall, between the 
Capitol and the Washington Monument, and is 
surrounded by rich gardens, beautiful flower-beds, 
Italian terraces, experimental grounds, arboretums 
and plant-houses. The museum and libraries con- 
tain vast collections. There are 400 employees, 
devoted to forestry, ornithology, pomology, seeds 
and other objects, with a botanist, chemist, en- 
tomologist, microscopist, statistician, and other officials. 

The Department of Justice arose in 1870, and occupies a l)uil(ling near tiic Treasury, 
with nearly 2,000 persons in the service. The Attorney-General, its head, is the chief law- 
officer of the Government, and has been a Cabinet officer since 1789. 

The Department of Labor (taking the place of the Bureau of Labor, organized in 1885) 
was constituted in 18S8, to acquire and diffuse information about labor, capital, earnings, 
and the means of })romoting the material, social, intellectual and moral prosperity of the 
working classes. Its head is Carroll D. Wright. 

The White House, or Executive Mansion, stands between the Treasury and Slate Depart- 
ments, surrounded by emerald lawns and noble old trees, and with views of the Potomac 
and the Virginian hills. It was built in 1 792-1800, on the model of the Duke of Leinster's 
mansion at Dublin, and contains many beautiful 
rooms and works of art. 

The U. -S. Coast Survey, a bureau of the Treas- 
ury Department, dates from 1807, and occupies a 
granite building near the Capitol. Here are kept the 
Standards of Weights and Measures for the States. 
The Coast Survey was "suggested by Jefferson, 
begun by Gallatin, organized by Ilassler, and per- 
fected by Bache, and is recognized by every learne 1 
body in the world." 

The Bureau of Engraving ami Printing, with its 
1,200 work-people, prepares all the pajjcr money ami 
bonds of the United States, in a buihling near the 
Washington Monument. The Government Printing-Oflice and Bindery is the largest in the 
world, and has turned out in a single year 200,000 pages of composition, in over 1,500,000 
volumes. Many of these books have become famous for the perfection of their manufacture, 
as well as for their other merits. The office employs 2,700 persons, and pays out about 
$3,000,000 a year. 

The Smithsonian Institution is a iiohle ;ui<l picturesque Norman structure of red sand- 
stone, many-towered and rambling, with cloisters, battlements and loopholes, and sur- 
rounded by the beautiful Mall, which was laid out by A. J. Downing. A fund of $515,619 
was bequeathed in 182S, by James Smithson, an English scientist, to the United States, to 




Bureau of engraving and phintinq. 



THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



159 




NEW NAVAL OBSERVATORY 



found "an establishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men." The 
building was erected in 1847-66 ; and the Smithsonian fund in the United-States Treasury- 
is $703,000. The interest of this fund is applied to original scientific research, the publica- 
tion of "Contributions to Knowledge," in quarto form, of "Miscellaneous Collections" 
and "Annual Reports" in octavo, the promotion of explorations and collections in unknown 
parts of the globe, the free transmission of scientific and literary works of societies and 
individuals from the United States to all parts of the world, and the return in exchange 
of similar articles. 

It has been entrusted by the Congress of the United States with the management of 
several important and constantly growing establishments, viz.: the "National Museum," 
the "Bureau of Ethnology," the "Bureau of International Exchanges," and the "National 
Zoological Park " in Washington City. 

It is governed by a Board of Regents, consisting of the Vice-President and Chief Justice 

j^^ of the United States, and twelve other members appointed by Congress : 

^ three Senators, three members of the House, four citizens from different 

States, and two citizens of Washington. The President of the United 

States is ex-officio President of the Institution ; the Chief Justice is the 

Chancellor. The executive officer is a secretary selected 

by the Regents, the present incumbent being Samuel P. 

Langley, the celebrated astronomer. 

The National Museum is supported by annual appro- 
priations made by Congress. I^ong before the Smith- 
sonian Institution had commenced active operations, a 
society had been formed under the patronage of the 
Government for the purpose of organizing a National 
Museum. The collections made by the early (government expeditions were placed in the 
custody of the Smithsonian Institution, and these, together with others which had found a 
temporary shelter in the Patent Office, were in 1858 merged into the National collection. 
From this time the name of National Museum was conferred upon all the collections under 
the control of the Smithsonian Institution. In 1879 ^'^ appropriation was made by Con- 
gress for a separate museum building. This structure, covering two and a half acres of 
ground, and lying east of the Smitlisonian building, was ready for occupancy in 1881. 
There are in the museum sixteen exhibition halls and 120 rooms, which are used as offices 
and laboratories by the scientific and administrative departments. There are nearly 
3,000,000 specimens in the collections of the anthropological, zoological, botanical and geo- 
logical departments. The collection of historical relics contains many objects of interest 
connected with the history of Washington, Franklin, Jcfferscjn, Jackson, Lincoln, Grant 
and other distinguished American statesmen and officers of the Army and Navy. The 
valuable collection of Indian paintings by George Catlin is also on exhibition. The Museum 
is now visited annually by about 300,000 persons. Since the building was completed, in 
1 88 1, nearly 2,500,000 people have been regis- 
lered by the door-keepers. The collections of 
antiquities, birds and shells are exhibited in the 
Smithsonian building. 

The Army Medical Museum, which formerly 
occupied the old Ford Theatre, in which President 
Lincoln was assassinated, and is now in its new 
building, near the National Museum, contains 
22,000 specimens, surgical, medical, microscop- 
ical, anatomical aTid miscellaneous. It is the larg- 
est and best collection of the kind in the world, 
and is frequented by many thousands of students. 




SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. 



i6o KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

The Surgeon-General's valuable Library in this building contains I00,000 books and 150,000 
pamphlets. The Pension Building, covering two acres, is an enormous brick edifice, in the 
style of an Italian palace, surrounding a court, whose glass roof is supported by eight lofty 
pillars. The U. -S. Naval Observatory, on Georgetown Heights, has a group of nine modern 
classic buildings, designed by Richard M. Hunt, and is fully equipped with great telescopes. 
Warner & Swasey, of Cleveland (Ohio), designed and built the 45-foot and 26j-foot steel 
domes. The Congressional Library Building is now under construction, to be finished in 
1S95, !l|>6, 500, 000 having been appropriated for it. The material is white New-Hampshire 
granite, and the courts are faced with ivory-white enamelled brick. The building is two 
thirds of the size of the Capitol, and the finest for the purpose in the world. 

The Corcoran Gallery of Art, founded and richly endowed by the late W. W. Cor- 
coran, a banker of Washington, contains one of the finest collections of pictures and statu- 
ary in America, including works by the old masters and modern European painters, and 
many specimens of our own art, by Leutze, Sully, Huntingdon and other American 
masters. It was opened to the public in 1874, and occupies a handsome building opposite 
the War Department. 

The Government Botanical Garden, at the foot of Capitol Hill, covers ten acres with its 
conservatories and gardens, enriched with a great variety of native flora and rare exotics. 

The U.-S. Navy Yard was acquired in 1799, and the JVasp, Argus, Potomac, St. Louis, 
Brafidytvine, Minnesota and other famous ships first entered the water here. It covers 27 
acres, along the Anacostia River, about a mile from the Capitol ; and has spacious barracks 
and workshops, and many trophies. The great National cannon-foundry is at the Wash- 
ington Navy Yard, and has the finest and most improved machinery for its work. It was 
estalilished during Cleveland's administration, and has turned out most of the armaments 
of the new cruisers and gun-boats. The Marine Barracks, near the Navy Yard, are the 
headquarters of the Marine Corps, famous for valiant deeds in Tripoli and Mexico, Corea, 
and the Pacific Islands, and elsewhere. The U.-S. Arsenal occupies 45 acres at the south- 
ern point of the city, between the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, with pleasant grounds, 
barracks, magazines, military stores, and cannon captured from the enemies of the Repub- 
lic. The Arsenal dates from 1803, and was the depot of ordnance supplies for the Army 
of the Potomac. The Soldiers' Home was founded in 1851, with the tribute-money levied 
on the city of Mexico by Gen. Scott, and is maintained by a monthly tax of twelve cents 
on each soldier of the regular army, for whose use it is reserved. It has several handsome 
marble buildings, in a pai'k of 500 acres, three miles north of the Capitol, and supports 
500 disabled veterans. The grounds contain Launt Thompson's bronze statue of General 
Scott. This locality was the favorite summer-home of Presidents Pierce, Buchanan and 
Lincoln. 

The Congressional Cemetery, near the Anacostia, contains the graves of many distin- 
guished statesmen and officers. There is a National Cemetery, near the ancient Rock- 
Creek Church and the Soldiers' Home, with over 6,000 graves. In Oak-Hill Cemetery is 
the grave of John Howard Payne, the author of Home, Siveet Home, with its beautiful 
classic monument and portrait-bust. Here also are the graves of General Reno, Secretary 
Stanton and other notables. 

The Washington Monument, designed by Robert Mills, and built in the periods 1848- 
54 and 1S80-4 (at a cost of i^i, 200,000), is a majestic white obelisk 555 feet high, above 
the ground, and 592 feet above the foundations, the loftiest piece of masonry in the world, 
surpassing even the Great Pyramid, Cologne and Antwerp Cathedrals, and St. Peter's. The 
pyramidal crest is crowned by a pointed block of shining alumnium. The monument 
stands in a park of 45 acres, near the shore of the Potomac River, and on the Mall leading 
from the Capitol ; and the eight windows near the top command beautiful views of the 
city, the winding and silvery Potomac, and the distant Blue Ridge. The outside is of 
crystal Maryland marble ; and the base is 55 feet square, with walls 15 feet thick. The 



THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



i6i 




WASHINGTON : SOME PUBLIC ART WORK. 



l62 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




GARFIELD MONUMENT. 



Scott was made by H. K. 



interior is lighted by electricity, and traversed by a stairway of 800 steps, and an elevator 
which rises to the top in seven minutes. 

The Lafayette Monument was executed by Falguiere and Mercie, enunent Parisian 
sculptors, in 1888 90, and shows a colossal bronze Lafayette, in a Coiuinenlal uniform, 
and around the marble base bronze statues of Rochambeau and L)u- 
portail, De Grasse and D'Estaing, soldiers of the French army and 
fleet which aided in freeing this Republic. There is also a symbolic 
statue of America. The Naval Monument, or Monument of Peace, 
at the foot of Capitol Hill, was made in Rome, of Carrara marble, 
and mainly paid for by subscriptions from the Navy. It is a group 
of beautiful emblematic statues, designed by Franklin Simmons, and 
erected in 1877. East of the Capitol is the bronze group representing 
ICmancipalion, with Abraham Lincoln holding the Proclamation over a 
negro whose shackles are broken. It was designed by Thomas Ball, 
and the freed colored people paid for the entire work. Another statue of Lincoln stands in 
front of the District Court House. 

The equestrian statue of (ieneral Jackson, on Lafayette Square, was made by Clark 
Mills, from brass cannon captured by the hero of New Orleans, and received its dedication 
1853, with an oration by Douglas. The colossal equestrian statue of Lieut. -General 
Brown, from cannon taken by its subject in the Mexican 
War. Another equestrian statue, on Wash- 
ington Circle, represents General Washing- 
ton at the Battle of Princeton. Capitol Hill 
has an equestrian statue of General Nathan- 
to iel Greene, of the Continental army, dedi- 
cated in 1877. The Society of the Army of 
the Tennessee erected in 1876 Rebisso's col- 
ossal equestrian statue of General McPher- 
son, made from the bronze of war-worn cannon. The noble equestrian statue of General 
Geo. H. Thomas (by J. (^. A. Ward) was erected in 1879 ^Y '^^ Society of the Army of the 
Cumberland. East of the Capitol is Greenough's colossal Carrara-marble statue of Wash- 
ington, received in 1840; and on the west stands Story's bronze statue of Chief- Justice 
John Marshall, unveiled in 1884. Among the other statues in Washington are those of 
Admiral Dupont (by Launt Thompson), a Ijronze figure of heroic proportions, unveiled in 
1884 ; Vinnie Ream Hoxie's bronze figure of Admiral Farragut, made from the metal of the 
propeller of his famous flagship Hartford, and unveiled in 1881 ; Plassman's marble statue 
of Benjamin Franklin ; Bailey's bronze figure of Gen. Rawlins, Grant's chief of staff" ; 
Story's bronze statue of Prof. Henry, near the Smithsonian Institution ; the colossal bronze 
statue of Martin Luther, erected by the Lutherans of America ; and President Garfield's 
statue, on Maryland Avenue. Franklin's statue was a gift of Stilson Hutchins. 

The environs of Washington are full of interest, and afford a variety of pleasant excursions. 
Steamboats run down the Potomac, 
daily, to Mount Vernon, the home 
and burial-place of George Washing- 
ton, giving opportunity for a pilgrim- 
age which should be taken by every 
patriotic American. The quaint old 
Virginian city of Alexandria, connect- 
ed by ferry-steamers with Washing- 
ton, preserves the church in which 
the Father of his Country used to 
worship, after the manner of the Epis- medical library and museum, u.-s. army. 




NATIONAL MUSEUM. 




THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



i6 




CORCORAN ART GALLERY. 



copalians. Across the river from Washington, the yellow front of the Arlington mansion 
gleams out from the dark trees of Arlington Heights. This house was built in i8o2 by 
tJ. W. P. Custis, Mr.s. Washington's grandson, and George Washington's adopted son, 
whose daughter married Robert E. Lee. Here Lee dwelt 
until he threw in his lot with the Southern States. The 
deserted estate became a place of National camps and forts, 
and now belongs to the Government, and has been occupied 
as a National Cemetery, where over i6,ooo soldiers of the 
Federal armies during the late civil war remain in "The 
bivouac of the dead." 

Remnants of old fortifications may be found on these mem- 
orable Virginian hills ; and the roads leading thence to Falls Church and Annandale, Fair- 
fax and Manassas, recall the marches of McDowell and McCIellan, Hooker and Burnsidc, 
Meade and Grant. In 1861 Washington was practically only a second-rate Maryland town, 
with streets of abysmal mud, littered here and there by half-finished public buildings. It 
lay between two great slave States, perplexed Maryland 
and embattled Virginia, and the army considered it as not 
worth saving, for itself, but very much worth saving on 
account of what it represented, to wit, the throne of 
.American Government, and the metropolis of free institu- 
tions and Republican ideas in the world. 

In those dark days, even the Royal Foundry at Munich 
refused to make the bronze doors for the U. -S. Senate, 
unless the cost was prepaid. This demand was met by 
a spirited order from Washington to ship the model of the 
doors to America; and at Chicopee (Mass.), the metal- 
founding was admirably done, showing, in imperishable 
bronze, the heroic deeds of George Washington. 

Washington is now one of the most desirable residence- 
cities in the world, with a blameless civic administration, a 
bland climate, beautiful scenery and architecture, and noble 
historic associations. The chief foreign diplomats have 
their residences here, and many other foreigners. The lead- 
ing American statesmen, authors, scientific men and society 
people are found on Pennsylvania Avenue, at some time 
during the year ; and the number of distinguished people 
who become permanent residents of the Federal City 
grows larger every decade. bronze door of the senate. 

The quaint old building on the corner of Fifteenth Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, 
formerly the Washington Branch of the Bank of the United States, has been occupied since 
1845 ^^y ^ private banking firm of high reputation and credit. 
Nearly a century ago, when the neighboring town of George- 
town was a commercial point of some importance, Elisha Riggs 
was a prosperous merchant in that place, having as his book- 
keeper the afterwards-famous George Peabody. George Wash- 
ington Riggs, eldest son of Elisha Riggs, formed a co-partner- 
ship in 1840 with W. W. Corcoran, of Georgetown; and the 
firm (Corcoran & Riggs) rapidly obtained an important position 
in the financial world, and successfully negotiated the Mexican 
War Loans for the Government. Mr. Corcoran retired from active business in 1854, 
since which date the firm has used its present title, Riggs & Co. George W. Riggs died as 
head of the house in 1881 ; and the present partners are Elisha Francis Riggs (son of George 





Washington: riggs & co. 'S bank. 




WASHINGTON : THE ARLINGTON HOTEL. 



164 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

W. Riggs), Charles C. Glover, Thomas Hyde and 
James M. Johnston. This old and renowned house 
conducts a very large business and retains its con- 
servative reputation at home and abroad. 

The Arlington Hotel was opened in 1869, on the 
sites of the homes of Marcy and Cass, secretaries 
of State under Pierce and Buchanan, and of Reverdy 
Johnson and Charles Sumner. Among its guests 
have been Presidents Grant and Arthur, Cleveland 
and Plarrison, the Emperor Dom Pedro of Brazil, 
the Grand Duke Alexis, Prince Napoleon, the 
Duke of Orleans, the Count of Paris, King Kalak- 
aua and Queen Kapiolani, President Diaz of Mexico, 
President Barrios of Guatemala, General Boulanger, 
Patti, Adelaide Neilson and hundreds of other notables, and embassies from many foreign 
powers. The hotel, with its new extension, stretches from Lafayette Square (on which the 
White House fronts) to McPherson Square, and is in every re- 
spect sumptuous. The beautiful and spacious parlors, in Louis 
Quartorze and other delicate styles of decoration, have been the 
scene of many famous receptions. Of the hotels at Washington, 
the Arlington is not only the largest of those strictly first-class, 
but it is foremost in all its appointments and management. Ever 
since 1870 its proprietor has been T. A. Roessle. 

Washington has four daily newspapers, thirty-four weeklies, 
eighteen monthlies and two quarterlies. Here, too, are the all- 
important Washington offices for correspondents of all the great 
newspapers of the world ; some occupying commodious quarters, 
and in one case. The Baltimore Sun, having a home in its own 
elegant and conspicuous eight-story stone-front building. 

The foremost chronicler and helper of the growth of modern 
Washington has been The Evening Star newspaper, which 
has the greatest local circulation of any American journal, 
in proportion to the population of the city in which it is pub- 
lished. This remarkable supremacy is due to the fact that the key-note struck by its first 
issues, away back in 1852, has always been followed, in the presentation of a clean, enterpris- 
ing and bright independent paper, especially devoted to the interests of Washington and the 
District of Columbia, with all the latest local news and American and foreign reports, by As- 
sociated and United Press as well as special dis- 
patches. The daily circulation of 77^1? Star exceeds 
32,000 copies, most of which reach the households 
of the city, a fact which illustrates, more forcibly 
than any words that could be used, the popular es- 
teem in which the paper is held. For nearly a 
quarter of a century the management of The Star 
has been in its present hands, — Crosby S. Noyes 
ably editing it, and S. H. Kauffmann, as president 
of the company, conducting its general business af- 
fairs. The Star Buildings cover a large area on one 
of the most prominent and valuable corners in the 
city, and contain an equipment in every depart- 
ment not excelled by that of any afternoon newspa- 

WA8HINQTON : THE EVENING STAR BUILDING. P^'' ^"^ '"^ WOria. 




BALTIMORE SUN BUILDING. 





Florida was the first re- 
gion of North America to 
be colonized by Europeans. 
It was discovered and ex- 
plored in 1 5 13, by Juan 
Ponce de Leon, landing at 
a bay just north of St. Au- 
gustine, and proclaiming 
the sovereignty of Spain. 
Fourteen years later Panfilo de Narvaez marched inland 
from Apalachee Bay, with 300 Spaniards, in a futile and 
fatal attempt to conquer and colonize the country. All 
these adventurers perished, except Cabeza de Vaca and 
three others, who discovered and crossed the Mississippi, 
and reached the Spanish towns of Mexico. The Adelantado 
Hernando de Soto landed near Tampa, in 1539, with a 
noble array of armor-clad knights and men-at-arms, and 
marched across West Florida, and away among the pagan 
tribes beyond. In 1564 Laudonniere and his French 
Huguenots built Fort Caroline, on the St. -John's River, 
but were surprised by a Spanish fleet under Menendez, and 
massacred, "Not as Frenchmen, but as Lutherans," as the 
inscription left on their bodies grimly attested. In 1568, 
De Gourgues's expedition captured the fort on the St. 
John's, and hung the garrison, "Not as Spaniards, but as 
traitors, thieves and murderers." 

St. Augustine was founded and named by the pitiless 
Menendez, in 1565. Twenty-one years later Sir Francis 
Drake utterly destroyed the town ; and in 1665 the bucca- 
neers plundered it. Gov. Moore led a South-Carolinian 
army against St. Augustine in 1702, and was beaten off from 
the fort. Oglethorpe vainly besieged the place for 38 days, 
in 1740, with 1,400 Georgians and Carolinians, and rained 
shot and shell upon it from Anastasia Island. 

The settlement of West Florida began in 1696, when 
cola. Florida was ceded to Great Britain in 1 763, in return 
colonies, and many Tories from the Carolinas, nearly all 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at ... . St. Augustine. 

Settled in 1565 

Founded by . . ■. . . Spaniards. 
Admitted to the I'nited States, 1845 
Population in iSbo, . . . 140,424 

In 1870 187,748 

In 1880 269,493 

White 142,605 

Colored, 126,888 

American-born, . . . 259,584 
Foreign-born, .... 9,909 

Males 136.444 

Females, 133.049 

In i8go (U. S. Census), . . 391,422 
Topulation to the square mile, 5 

Voting Population (1880), . 61,679 

Vote for Harrison (1888), 26,6';7 

Vote for Cleveland (1888), 39,561 
Net State Debt {1890), . . $i53.39i 
Assessed Property, . . S77iOoo,ooo 
Area (square miles), . . . 58,680 
U. S. Representatives (1893) 2 

Militia (Disciplined), . . . 1,300 

Counties 45 

Post-offices 894 

Railroads (miles), .... 2,471 
Manufactures (yearly), $5,500,000 
Farm Land (in acres), . . 3,300,000 

Farm-Land Values, . $20,000,000 
Colleges and Professional Schools, 
School ISuildings, .... 1,800 
Average School-Attendance, 51,000 

Newspapers, 122 

Latitude, .... 24''30' to 31° N. 
Longitude, . . 79°48' to 87''38' \V. 
Mean Temperature (St. 

Augustine), 69^2° 

Mean Temperature (Key 

West) 765^° 

TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POPU-" 

LATIONS. tCensus of 1890.) 

Key West 18,080 

Jacksonville, 17,201 

Pensacola, 11.750 

Tampa, 5,532 

St. Augustine, 4,742 

Palatka 3,039 

Tallahassee 2,934 

Ocala 2,904 

Orlando, 2,856 

Fernandina, . . . ■ . . . 2,803 



the Spaniards occupied Pensa- 
for Cuba, and received English 
of whom removed to Georgia 



r66 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SILVER SPRING. 



when Don Bernardo de Galvez captured West Florida. The 
country was ceded back to Spain (in 1783) in exchange for the 
Bahamas. The Apalachicola River became the boundary be- 
tween the provinces of East and West Florida. The people of the 
Gulf States were ill-pleased at the continuance of a European 
power in Florida, and Gen. Jackson seized Pensacola, in 18 14, and 
four years later occupied both Pensacola and St. Augustine. On 
both occasions the Government recalled its too enthusiastic officers, 
and the Spanish system was restored. In 1819 the King of Spain 
reluctantly ceded Florida to the United States, and Andrew Jackson became its Governor. 
There were then but 600 whites in Florida, dwelling mainly in Pensacola and St. Augus- 
tine, the rest of the country being occupied by the Seminoles, numbering about 4,000, 
with 800 slaves. The aboriginal Floridians were the Miccosukee Indians. After 1750, 
migrating bands of Creeks from Alabama occupied Alachua and Tallahassee, and swallowed 
up the original tribes. In 1835 began the Seminole War, which lasted for seven years, and 
cost $20,000,000 and the lives of 1,500 American soldiers. Over 30,000 volunteers were 
called out by the United-States Government, including commands even from New York 
and Missouri. Every settlement south of St. Augustine was blotted out. In 1835 ^'''^ I^" 
dians massacred Maj. Dade and his command of 109 men, and were beaten by Gen. 
Clinch. In 1837 Zachary Taylor and 1,100 troops defeated 380 Indians in a hard battle at 
Lake Okeechobee, losing 138 men. The savages, under the great chief Osceola, were driven 
southward, to Suwanee, to Orange Lake, and across the Everglades, until the navy joined 



in the closing campaigns among the 
Seminoles were removed beyond the 
and now dwell in the Indian Terri- 
their old homes among the Ever- 
at Tallafajassa, 15 miles from Fort 
At the outbreak of the late 
joined the Southern States in at- 
seizing all the unprotected Na- 
borders. The strong defences 
cola, and Forts Jefferson and 



k -:^A 




Florida Keys. Most of the 

Mississippi in 1842 and 1S58, 

tory ; but 300 of them cling to 

glades, with their chief village 

Pierce, on Indian River. 

civil war, Florida promptly 

tempting to leave the Union, 

tional property within her 

of Foit Pickens, neii Pcnsi- 

I a) lor, on the kL\s, wcie 




securely held by their Federal "~"^«^ A'y. 
garrisons; and the vessels of < t\< , 

the United-States navy kept 
command of most of the 

coast. Early in 1864 Gen. ^ ''^j47J'/7^''^i'''' 

Seymour occupied Jackson- " "^'^Wnl^' WAm • 

ville with 7,000 Federal troops, and advanced ^j ^jirK^^-if ' ^il 

westward nearly to Lake City At Ocean Pond ^^^^j^ ^^^2^^*^^)^ 

on the Olustee, his army was thrown m detad " ^^'•"'■'^ ^'" "tf'"< ¥li-4-^ 

against a strongly posted Confcdcrite force, and 

defeated, losing 1,861 men out of 5,500 engaged, -= -^^^ .' - ^ 

Out of an equal force, the Southern aimy lost 940 

After this appalling carnage the National troops 

retreated to Jacksonville, which remained secure under the Federal control. 

The terrible yellow-fever pestilence of 1888 was the result of the carelessness of the 
local government, which allowed the disease to spread out from Tampa. It held high 
carnival at Jacksonville, with 4,711 cases, of whom 412 died; and also at Fernandina. 
Gainesville and other places. A State Board of Health was created in 1889, and will be 
able to act with intelligence and authority in future emergencies, so that it will be difficult 
for epidemics to make such ravages again. 



FLORIDA FRUITS. 



THE STA TE OF FLORIDA. 



167 




TAMPA BAY. 



The Name of the State was given by its dis- 
coverer, Ponce de Leon, who first saw the land on 
Easter Sunday, or, as the Spaniards have it, Pascua 
Florida, "The Flowery Festival." The name 
therefore means "The Flowery," or "The Land of 
Flowers." Florida is called THE EVERGLADE 
STATE, from one of its natural features. The peo- 
ple used to be nicknamed " Fly-up-the-Creeks." 

The Arms of Florida show an Indian upon a 
bank, scattering flowers ; the sun sinking or rising 
behind distant hills ; a river in the middle ground, bearing a side-wheel steamboat ; and a 
great cocoanut tree. The motto is : In God we Trust. 

The Governors of Florida have been : Ter7'itorial : Andrew Jackson, 1 82 1-2; Wm. P. 
Duval, 1S22-34; John H. Eaton, 1834-6; Richard K. Call, 1836-9 and 1S41-4; Robert 
R. Reid, 1839-41 ; John Branch, 1844-5. -State : Wm. D. Moseley, 1845-9 ; Thomas Brown, 
1849-53; James E. Broome, 1853-57; Madison S. Perry, 1857-61; John Milton, 1861-5 ; 
A. K. Allison (acting), 1865; Wm. Marvin (provisional), 1865-6; David S. Walker, Sr., 
1866-9; Harrison Reed, 1869-73; Ossian B. Hart, 1873-4; Marcellus L. Stearns, 1 874-7 ; 
George F. Drew, 1877-81 ; Wm. D. Bloxham, 1881-5 ; Edward A. Perry, 1885-9; ^"d 
Francis P. Fleming, 1889-93. 

Geography. — East Florida includes the penmsula, ^\est^\ald to the Suwanee River; 
Middle Florida extends from the Suwanee to the 
Apalachicola ; and West Florida reaches thence 
to the Perdido River. Another division is North 
Florida, from 30° to the northern line, 45 miles 
wide ; Central (or semi-tropical) Florida, a land 
of savannas and hammocks, lakes and rivers ; and 
South (or sub-tropical) Florida, where there is 
very slight difference in the temperature, summer 
and winter. The distance from the northern line 
to the remotest Key is 450 miles, and the average 
width of the peninsula is 95 miles. The distance 
from the Atlantic to the western line is 400 miles. 
It is 700 miles from the Perdido River to Cape Sable. Imaginative geographers find in 
Florida the shape of an inverted boot, with the heel on the St. Mary's River and the toe at 
Pensacola. 

The central highlands contain many pleasant modern villages, in a rolling country cov- 
ered with a majestic growth of pines, and diversified by hundreds of crystalline lakes. 
Among the famous resorts in this region are Altamonte Springs, on Lake Orienta ; the 
Seminole Hotel, among the orange-groves of Winter Park; Ocala, and Lake Weir. The 
mineral waters of the Ponce-de-Leon, Green-Cove, White Sulphur, Suwannee, NeM^port 
and other springs have attracted much attention, and are visited by many health-seekers. 
The r,200 miles of Florida's coast (472 miles on the Atlantic, the rest on the Gulf) in- 
cludes among its chief harbors Fernandina, 
Jacksonville, St. Augustine, Daytona, and 
Port Orange, on the Atlantic ; and Key West, 
Oyster Bay, Punta Rassa, Charlotte Harbor, 
Tampa, Cedar Keys, Carabelle, St. Mark's, 
Apalachicola and Pensacola on the Gulf. The 
Atlantic coast is fronted with narrow sandy 
islands, enclosing far-reaching lagoons. The 
broad Straits of Florida sweep around between 




SUWANEE RIVER. 







.r <^^-^jtf 



ROCKLEDQE : SCENE ON INDIAN RIVER. 



i68 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



the peninsula and Cuba and the Bahama Banks, with the deep-blue Gulf Stream filling 
them from shore to shore, 30 miles wide, 2,000 feet deep, and rushing eastward and north- 
ward at a rate of five miles an hour, at a temperature of 84°. 

There are myriads of islands around Florida, including those in the Everglades, the 
Ten Thousand Islands, and the famous Florida Keys (Cayes), extending 200 miles south- 
westward from Cape Florida to the Dry Tortugas. Many of the Keys are uninhabited ; and 
nearly all of them are infested by enormous swarms of mosquitoes. A navigable channel 
separates the sand-flats upon which the Keys rise from the long and dangerous chain of the 
Florida Reefs. The Keys are only a few feet above the tide ; and bear mangrove, mastic, 
sweet bay, gumbo-limbo, palmetto, pine, and other trees, among their sands and rocks. 
Cocoanuts, hemp, and pineapples grow here with little attention. Largo is the greatest of 
the islands, and encloses broad bays and lagoons. Here, and at Elliott's and the Mate- 
cumbe and Plantation Keys, 600 truck-farmers raise tomatoes, cucumbers, bananas and 
other fruits for the early market, sending 50,000 crates by the Mallory Line to New York 
every season. Since 1880, 600,000 cocoanut-trees have been planted on and near the Keys, 
with wonderful success, and their product is shipped north in increasing volume. They re- 
quire salt air, and will not endure frosts. One hundred trees grow on an acre, bearing 
fruit in from seven to ten years. During the season of pineapples, several thousand bar- 
rels are shipped from Key West every week. They are of the red Spanish variety, grow- 
ing on dry sandy soil, 10,000 plants to the acre, and bearing the second year. The enor- 
mous development of the cocoanut and pineapple culture along the coast and up as far as 
the Caloosahatchee and Lake Worth, and the rapid advance in raising dates, guavas and 
lemons in South Florida have been almost entirely the result of the past ten years, and will 
enrich the Republic by a variety of new and delicious food-supplies. 

Key West, 60 miles from the main, and 90 miles from Havana, _is the sailors' pronuncia- 
tion of the Spanish Cayo Iliieso (Bone Reef), so named because the early explorers found here 
great quantities of human bones. It was settled in 1818 by Connecticut fishermen, who sold 
their fish in Havana. About 
20 years ago a number of Cu- 
ban exiles took refuge here, 
and established the manufixc- 
ture of cigars, from Havana 
leaf. There are . pw 
125 factories, making 
over 125,000,000 
cigars yearly. Key 
West has a noble and 
well-fortified harbor, 
with a naval station, 
and lines of steam- 
ships to Cedar Keys, 
Tampa, Havana, New 

Orleans, Galveston and New York. It is the ninth port of entry in the United States; and 
the only Gulf-coast city never occupied by the Confederacy. The island is six miles by a 
mile and a half in area. The city has broad streets, ten churches and a fire-proof Masonic 
Temple ; many structures of limestone quarried on the island ; fine public buildings, and 
several lines of street-cars. It is peculiarly a Spanish colony, with foreign architecture. 
The climate is so equable, tropical and withal bracing, that this locality has become a sani- 
tarium for sufferers from diseases of the throat and lungs, and catarrhal patients. Snow- 
flakes have never been seen here. Key West is 66j hours from New York, by fast mail, and 
less than twelve hours from Havana, by the steamship route. The southernmost point of 
the United States is Sand Key, seven miles south-southwest of Key West, on the edge of 




EST HARBOR. 
S. NAVAL STATION AND 
GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS. 




HOMOSASSA RIVER. 



THE ST A TE OF FLORIDA. 169 

the Florida Reefs. Here a tall brown and white 
light-house beacons the Florida Straits, within 
80 miles of Havana. 

The fisheries of Florida are the largest in the 
South, and engage 10,000 men, with a yearly 
product of $1,000,000. The sponge-fishery is 
one of the leading industries, and employs 1,000 
fishermen and 400 vessels and sail-boats, built on 
the Keys, and manned by Bahama negroes ( ' 'Nas- 
sau coons"). A sponging vessel has several 
boats, each sculled slowly by one man, while 
the other, perched in the bow, watches the bot- 
tom of the channel for sponges, and secures them by a three-pronged iron claw fastened to 
a long pole. Key West alone ships nearly $400,000 worth of sponges every year, mainly 
to Paris. The mullet-fisheries of West Florida were famous in the old Spanish days, and 
now 5,000,000 pounds a year are exported to Cuba. The grouper fisheries are also very 
important and lucrative. The red snapper is a handsome, favorite and appetizing fish, 
and 2,500,000 pounds are sent from Pensacola yearly, largely to New York. The pom- 
pano is another valued denizen of these waters ; and here also are found the king-fish, 
sheepshead, bream, Spanish mackerel, channel-bass, blue-fish, sea-trout, and oysters. Shad 
run in the rivers ; and outside are found sharks, cuttle-fish and octopuses. The green-turtle 
and sea-turtle (sometimes weighing 1,200 pounds each) captured in nets among the Keys are 
of great value, and their eggs (100 to 300 in each nest) are prized as food. Alligators dwell 
in all the rivers, and are shot by thousands ; and on the lower coast are found the manatee 
and crocodiles. Many Bahama corallers get an arduous living by breaking from the sub- 
merged Keys, tree, finger, brain, red and other varieties of corals, which are sent North 
and sold for good prices. Tarpon fishing is one of the most exciting of sports. 

Much of the Atlantic coast is fringed with long and narrow islands, like Amelia, on 
which Fernandina stands, and Anastasia, opposite St. Augustine. Fort-George Island, at 
the mouth of the St. -John's, is a beautiful sea-fronting winter-resort. Indian River, a salt- 
water lagoon 165 miles long, and from one to six miles wide, and separated from the sea by 
a narrow strip of land, is famous for its delicious oranges and pineapples. The southerly 
part, from St. Lucie to Jupiter Inlet, is called Jupiter Narrows, or St. -T.f/cie Sound. 

Florida has 1,200 miles of river navigation, on twenty streams. The St. -John's River 
is nearly 400 miles long, flowing northward parallel with the ocean coast, from its birth- 
place in the swamps just north of the Everglades, through a chain of silvery lakes, reach- 
ing a width of a mile 50 leagues above its mouth, and in its lower courses broadening to 
six miles across. The river is divided into three sections (i), the Port of St. John's, 22 
miles long, from the jetties at the mouth up to Jacksonville, the avenue of a large steam- 
ship commerce; (2) the St. -John's River, 125 miles long, from Jacksonville to Sanford 
(on Lake Monroe), with several steamboat lines; and (3), the Upper St. -John's, extend- 
ing 1 50 miles, from Sanford to Lake Florence, 
and navigated by smaller vessels, which thread 
the dark bayous far into the remote and un- 
peopled south. Its tributaries, the Ocklawaha 
and Kissimmee, are also the avenues of a con- 
siderable trade. The recent drainage-works 
have opened a steamboat route 140 miles long, 
on the historic Caloosahatchee River, Lake 
Okeechoobee, and the Kissimmee, Cypress and 



Tohopekaliga Lakes, into inland Florida. The i[ 
Peace, Manatee, Withlacoochee, St. Mark's, ' 




' uiuui iiiuiiuuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiDiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiuiiiiiiii 

■jH the ocklawaha. 



I 70 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LAKE CITY : STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE. 



Apalachicola and other rivers are being improved by 
United-States Engineers. The Suwanee has been 
made navigable to Ellaville, 124 miles. 

Lake Okeechobee covers 1,000 square miles, 
and is from 16 to 22 feet above the sea. In ^ ^,^, 
rainy times it overspreads vast areas of the 
Everglades, and floods entire townships. The 
Everglades is a vast and luxuriant swamp of 
7,500 square miles, during the rainy season 
(from July to October) covered with from one 
to ten feet of pure and clear water, abounding in fish, and studded with islands, some of 
them containing hundreds of acres of cypresses and pines, palmettoes and magnolias. 
The United States patented to Florida nearly 20,000,000 acres of land, of which the 
State had on her hands, in 1881, 12,758,000 acres unsold, but encumbered by a lien (the 
Vose Judgment) of nearly f 1,000,000, largely on account of railroad construction. In 
1881, Hamilton Disston and others of Philadelphia paid f 1,000, 000 for 4,000,000 acres, 
and formed the Florida Land and Improvement Company, which has since acquired vast 
additional tracts, besides selling 2,000,000 acres to Sir Edward Reed and other British 
capitalists. This enterprising company also offered to drain the Everglades and lower its 

lakes, if half the redeemed territory (in alternate sec- 
tions) should be granted them. The new drainage 
area extends 85 miles from Lake Tohopekaliga to 
Lake Okeechobee, and thence a broad canal leads west- 
ward to the Caloosahatchee River. Okeechobee has 
fallen two feet, and 4,000 miles of rich lands have 
been reclaimed for the cultivation of sugar and fruit, 
for which the climate seems peculiarly adapted. 

The State contains 1,200 clear lakes, which agree- 
ably diversify its otherwise monotonous scenery. 
Many of them cover more than 50 square miles each, 
like Chipola and Miccosukee, Apopka and Kis- 
simmee, George and Tohopekaliga. 
The Climate varies, from that of North Florida, with a temperature ranging from 
98° to 19°, to that of the central counties, 100° to 25", and of South Florida, 96° to 30°, 
while the temperature of the latter shows marked inequalities. Key West being several de- 
grees cooler than Punta Rassa, a long way to the northward. The prolonged heats of 
South Florida are perilous to unacclimated persons, and especially to those with a tendency 
to malarial and typhoid fevers, who should keep north of 29° 
from March until November. Febrile and bilious patients 
should avoid Florida. The winters are distinguished by fre- 
quent rains, especially on the Gulf side, and by occasional 
light frosts in North and Central Florida, sometimes resulting 
disastrously for the orange groves. The climate is in the 
main remarkably equable and healthy, except near the wet 
lands of the south. It has been said that the Florida year 
is made up of eight months of summer and four months of 
warm weather. The summer temperature is more even than 
that of the North. The cool and salty sea-breezes blow 
clear across the peninsula during the day, and at night the 
returning Gulf winds blow from the westward. North of 29^ 
the climate resembles that of Algiers, Sicily, Greece, Cyprus, 
Syria and Armenia. The winters are like the Indian summers among the pines. 




A FLORIDA BICYCLE. 




THE STATE OF FLORIDA. 



171 



of the North. Mrs. Stowe pronounced the St John's 
country "a child's Eden." The winter climate is singu- 
larly dry and healthful, and resembles that of Southern Cali- 
fornia, without its dust. It is warmer on the Atlantic 
coast than along the Gulf, owing to the Gulf Stream, 
which hugs the shore from Biscayne Bay to Jupiter 
Inlet. The climates of Florida cannot be desciibed 
in a paragraph, for they show wide differences, 
even between points so near as Jacksonville 
and Palatka, and still more between the 
Tallahassee country and the sub-tropical 
South. Among the ailments benefited by a 
season in Florida are consumption, 
phthisis, brain-exhaustion, dyspepsia, 
nervous prostration, rheumatism, and 
throat and bronchial troubles. The 
health-seeker must be careful not to' 
return too early in the season to the 
cold Northland. 

Florida is divided into three sec- 
tions, as to its soil: (i) the oak, hick- 
ory and pine uplands in the northwest, 
covering 2,300 square miles of fairly good red- 
loam, brown-loam, and pine-ridge lands, with 
noble trees and small crops ; (2) the long-leaf- 
pine lands of north and central Florida, the high 
rolling region of dark sandy loam (with its groups of beautiful lakes, high-arched forests, 
and rising villages), the water-soaked flat pine-lands toward the coasts, and the verdant 
and fertile hammocks or swamp-surrounded knolls, crowned with oranges, live-oaks, pal- 
mettoes and cypresses; and (3) the pitch-pine and allutial lands of the south, where prairies 
and savannas alternate with flat woods and swamps, a rich soil, adapted to coffee, rice, 
sugar-cane, guavas, pineapples and bananas. The best pine-lands have a dark vegetable 
mould, on deep chocolate-colored sandy and limy loam, apparently inexhaustible. The 
second-rate pine-lands are high and rolling, healthy and well-watered, heavily timbered, and 
with good natural pasturage. About 25,000,000 acres are covered with woods, nearly three 
fourths of which is the valuable pitch-pine, the rest including pine, oak, sweet-gum, royal 
palm, bay-laurel, magnolia, cedar, beech, mahogany, satin-wood, lignum-vit?e, green ebony, 
mangrove, cork-tree and olive — in all 200 species of trees. Many large saw-mills in West 
Florida are devoted to getting out the pitch (or Georgia) pine lumber. Live-oak, for ship- 
building, is a large product of the northeast ; and western Florida finds profit in tar, rosin, 
and pitch, and distilling turpentine. Lumbering is the foremost industry of the State, and 
yields $20,000,000 a year. The immense levels of Florida are broken only in the north- 




NDIAN R VER 



west, by a few hills of 300 feet 




JACKSONVILLE : FLORIDA SUB-TROPICAL EXPOSITION, 



in height. On the whole peninsula there is no eminence 
equalling 100 feet. The land on these vast levels is ex- 
— -* ceedingly rich, for the most part, the chief difli- 
^ culty being in clearing it. 

The Farm- Products of the Slate include 
yearly 4,500,000 bushels of corn, 600,000 bushels 
of oats, 1,300,000 pounds of rice, 1,000,000 gal- 
lons of molasses, 1,500 hogsheads of sugar, with 
tea and coffee, flax and hemp, barley and hops, 
peas and beans. It bears but little wheat or hay. 



172 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




KEY WEST : MARINE HOSPITAL. 



The cotton crop is 60,000 bales, valued at 
.14,000,000, and including much Sea-Island 
cotton. The northeastern counties send ship- 
loads of early vegetables and berries to the 
Northern cities. The tobacco industry, after 
many years of neglect, is now assuming great 
proportions, especially in the rich Suvvannce- 
River country, and broad areas have been 
planted with the best of Cuba and Sumatra 
seed. The yearly product now reaches nearly 
$700,000, and increases every season. There 
are 50 varieties of oranges cultivated here, the Florida fruit holding the preeminent rank 
over all the oranges of the world. Fully 10,000 square miles are adapted to this delicious 
fruit, and 100,000 acres are in orange-groves ; and already the yearly crop reaches 2,250,000 
boxes (150 in a box). About $10,000,000 is invested in the orange-groves, and the yearly 
[iroduct is valued at nearly $2,000,000. The St. -John's and Halifax-River regions are 
perfectly adapted to this fine fruit. The oranges grow on graceful straight gray-barked 
trees, from 15 to 30 feet high, with large shining leaves and delicate white and fragrant 
blossoms. The line of migration of the orange has been from southeastern Asia to Syria 
and Spain ; and the cavaliers of the latter country brought it to Florida. It is raised largely 
in 21 counties, the main product coming from Lake, Marion, Putnam, Orange and Volusia. 

The choicest fruit is the juicy and thin-skinned 
variety growing along the richly fertile shores 
of the Indian River, under the intimate 
warmth of the Gulf Stream. The grape-fruit 
grows more easily than the orange, and 



hangs in clusters (whence its name). 
The shaddock is a larger and coarser 
fruit, weighing from three to five pounds, 
GAINESVILLE : EAST FLORIDA sEMiN/«RY. ^ud shapcd Hkc a pumpkiu. It is not 

much eaten. Besides the cocoanuts and pineapples of the Keys, Florida produces lemons 
and limes, grapes and dates, guavas and citrons, tamarinds and pomegranates, figs and 
olives, pears and apples, peaches and quinces. Both yellow and red bananas are grown, 
1,000 plants to the acre, in rich moist soil. 

The Geology of peninsular Florida tells that it is founded on coral reefs, upon which 
Vicksburg limestone was deposited, followed by sand, pebbles and clay. The formations 
are so recent that they contain few valuable minerals, except the shell-limestone (cocjuina) 
of St. Augustine, and the Tampa and Manatee marls. Ocala has large lime-kilns. Brown 
lignrte occurs on the Suwanee and Blackwater. The limestone strata are full of caverns, 
through some of which flow crystal streams, occasionally breaking out on the surface of the 
ground in great "boiling springs. " Elsewhere occur the conical hollows called "sinks," 
sometimes covering many acres, with running water visible at the bottom. The Wakulla 
Spring is 400 feet wide, crystalline and ice-cold, and forming a navigable river. Silver 
Spring is 600 feet across, and its efflux is a navigable 
stream 150 feet wide. Blue Spring pours a flood of 
clear blue-tinted water into the Withlacoochee, from 
p, bowl 70 feet across and 40 feet deep. The Green- 
Cove, and other springs are of similar form and 
proportions. 

Florida phosphate rock was discovered in small 
quantities at various points aliout the year 1885, and 
in 1889 Dunn, Voight and Snowden found the great dunnellon ; dunnellon co.'s phosphate beds. 





THE STATE OE E LOR ID A. 



173 




DUNNELLON : DUNtJELLON 



PHOSPHATE BEDS. 



and invaluable deposits at Dunnellon. The im- 
portance of these finds was instantly seen, and vast 
sums have been invested in their development. 
The two chief fields are along the Gulf, for 60 
miles ; and in the Withlacoochee region, where 
this mineral deposit, so valuable for the sandy 
soil of Florida, is easily procured, in inexhausti- 
ble bars and beds. The Dunnellon mines are in 
the latter region, and have already sent out many 
tons of phosphatic material, mainly to Europe, 
where it is highly prized for fertilizing purposes. 
Florida phosphate rock is of a creamy tint, very soft when first dug, and containing from 
5 to 40 per cent, of phosphate impregnating the limestone or sandstone. The Dunnellon 
rock has shown in analysis 80 per cent, of phosphate of lime, on dry basis, and the fertil- 
izers made from it do not revert, but show a high percentage of soluble after being kept 
some time. The Bradley Fertilizer Company, of Boston, has a con- 
trolling interest in the Dunnellon property, and is the general agent 
for its sale. 

Government. — The governor is elected by the people for four 
years. The Legislature contains 32 four-years' senators and 68 two- 
years' representatives. The judiciary includes three justices of the 
Supreme Court ; the seven circuit courts ; the county courts 
and justices; and local criminal courts. Since 1880 the 
State finances have been redeemed ; railways have been 
extended, and many new towns founded ; and the orange- 
culture and the fisheries have been developed amazingly. 
The State Capitol, at Tallahassee, is a massive and roomy 
structure, built by the Territorial Government in 1834. 

The militia of Florida is composed of the Florida State 
Troops, enrolled in three battalions, of ten infantry and two 
artillery companies and 500 men. They have annual encampments, that for 1887 having 
been at Pablo Beach, and that for 1888 near Pensacola. There are also 15 detached volun- 
teer companies of infantry (seven of them colored), reporting to the Adjutant-General of 
Florida. The territorial militia numbers 48,000 men. 

The Stale Penitentiary contains 360 convicts, more than three fourths being colored 
men, and most of their crimes having been against property. The prisoners are kept in a 
stockade near Monticello, and employed in farm-labor. The Florida Insane Asylum, in the 
old United-States arsenal at Chattahoochee, has 250 inmates, 
mostly whites. The Institution for Deaf, Dumb and Blind 
Youths is at St. Augustine. 

Education. — Florida spends $500,000 a year (five times as 
much as in 1880) for its schools, whose efficiency is advancing 
continually. One fourth of the schools are for colored children, 
and one fourth of the teachers are negroes. The State normal 
colleges were founded in 1887. The one at DeFuniak Springs 
is attended by 60 white students; the one at Tallahassee has 52 
colored students. The Florida Chautauqua has beautiful 
grounds and many buildings, and gives a month of lectures 
and studies, readings and concerts. It is at De Funiak Springs, 
a deep and crystalline circular lakelet, without outlet or inlet, 
270 feet above and 20 miles from the Gulf, and surrounded by 
fragrant forests of pitch-pine. The De Funiak waters and 




DE LAND : JOHN B. STETSON UNIVERSITY. 




KEY WEST ; LIGHT-HOUSE. 



174 




PENSACOLA : FORT PICKENS, 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

climate have effected many cures, and arc highly 
esteemed in Florida. 

The Congregationalists founded Rollins College, 
at Winter Park, in 1885, and it now has four build- 
ings, on the shore of Lake Virginia. John B. 
vStetson University begun as DeLand Academy in 
^-^3,1 1883, and became a Baptist school in 1887. It is 
?- }!wS§5l named in honor of a well-known Philadelphia 
philanthropist, who has given it large sums of 
money. The University is at the pleasant town of 
Ue Land. The Methodist Episcopal Church South founded the Florida Conference Col- 
lege, at Leesburg, in 1886; the Methodist Episcopal Church founded the St.-John's Con- 
ference College, at Orange City, in 1887; the Christians founded Orange College, at 
Starke, in 1883. 

The Legislature of 1851 ordered that "two seminaries of learning shall be established, 
one upon the cast, the other upon the west, side of the Suwanee River." For many years 
these were the only public high-schools in Florida. The West-Florida Seminary is at Tal- 
lahassee ; the Seminary East of the Suwanee River is at Gainesville. They are military 

and normal institutions, with about 
120 students in both. Florida Uni- 
versity was organized in 1883, with 




ST. AUGUSTINE ; FORT MARION. 



the West-Florida .Seminary as its 
literary department, and the Talla- 
hassee College of Medicine and Surg- 
ery, as a professional school ; but it endured 
only for a short season. The State Agri- 
cultural College is at Lake City, and furnishes a free collegiate course in literature, farming 
and military science to 80 young Floridians. The Cookman Institute is a normal and 
Biblical school for colored people, with 170 pupils, maintained by the Methodist Episco- 
pal Church, at Jacksonville. The Baptists have a similar school, at Live Oak ; and the 
Congregationalists opened the Florida Normal and Industrial College, near Lake City, in 
1886. 

Florida has 275,000 church attendants. The Baptists lead the field, with 400 churches 
and 28,731 members. The Methodists have 19,000, the Catholics 11,000, the Presby- 
terians 2,500, and the Episcopalians 9,500. 

The pioneer in Florida journalism was The Floridiaii, founded at Tallahassee in 1828, 
and still in existence. The State now has eleven 
daily newspapers and above 1 00 weeklies. There 
are two papers published at Key West in the 
Spanish language ; the American paper being the 
daily Eqiiator-DcDiocrat. 

National Works. — Fort Marion, at St. Au- 
gustine, is a grand gray polygon, with a dry moat 
40 feet wide. It was built in 1737-66, by Mexican 
convicts, part of the works having been erected as 
early as 1565. The dark dungeons, gray barbican, 
dusky passages and sea-viewing ramparts are visited st augustine monument to dade's command 




THE STATE OE E LOR ID A. 



175 




ST. AUGUSTINE : THE ALCAZAR. 



by bevies of wondering tourists. There is no garrison. St. -Francis Barracks, also at 
St. Augustine, are occupied by United- States troops. Fort Clinch, near Fernandina, 
has been abandoned for some years. Fort Taylor, at Key West, is a cascmented penta- 
gonal brick structure, erected at a cost of $1,250,000, and mounting 200 guns. There are 
also martello-towers on the island. The garrison was with- ^^ drawn long ago. 

Fort Jefferson, on Garden Key, the largest of the Dry Tor- 
tugas, is an enormous and powerful fortification 
of brick, enclosing nine acres of lawns and palm- '^^<^lW,f,ii,9.„i^ji^^ 
trees, oleanders and roses. It was begun in 1846, 
to be the military key of the Gulf, and is said to 
have cost $30,000,000, all its materials having 
been brought from New York. The officers' 
quarters and barracks are the best in America. 
During the Secession War this fortress became a National military prison. Since 1878 it 
has remained ungarrisoned, but a battalion has recently been ordered hither. Nearly three 
miles distant, across a fairy-land forest of submerged corals, rise the snow-white sands of 
Loggerhead Key. Fort Jefferson is 71 miles from Key West. The entrance to Pensacola 
is defended by Fort McRae and Fort Pickens, half a league apart, with Fort Barrancas 
two miles above and facing down the channel. The first two have been abandoned. 
They are nearly half a century old, and endured terrific bombardments during the Secession 
Wai\ Pensacola has an antique Navy Yard, very little used of late years; and there is a 
Naval Station at Key West. At night the flashes from 36 light-houses -sparkle along the 
Florida coast and Keys, and nearly 60 on the long St. -John's River. 

Chief Cities. — Jacksonville, 15 miles from the ocean, on a bend of the vSt. -John's 
River, is the metropolis of Florida, with large fruit-packing interests and grain trade, and 
some manufactures ; and entertains nearly 80,000 guests every winter season. It has a large 

ocean-commerce, with wharves lining the river-front for 

miles. The broad avenues and suburban shell-roads are 

I E ^ Is lined with live-oaks and fragrant flow- 

»;t»f J" i-J-t'^^H. .ti^ ^'"^' ^""^ afford pleasant drives. 




mtE^i 



St. Augustine, with its quaint Spanish 
lanes and balconied buildings, crumbl- 



_/Sing gates 



and castle, and 



ST. AUGUSTINE 



THE PONCE DE LEON. 



l»a 



"^ 



■^.-■*-".' if T'.r- c 



■« 



a 



noble magnolias, palms and oleanders, is 

the oldest city in the United States, and 

has the most costly and magnificent hotels 

in the world. Two of these, the Ponce de 

Leon and the Alcazar, cost $5,000,000, 

and are massively built of shell concrete, 

in semi-Saracenic Spanish-Renaissance 

architecture, with towers, casinos, and 

courtyards. The Hotel Cordova is a third 

magnificent Moresque structure. St. Augustine also possesses the most elaborate modern 

Pompeian villa in the world, designed by a British architect, with atrium, trichnia, exedra, 

bibliotheca and solarium. The new Presbyterian and Methodist churches are among the 

finest pieces of architecture in the South. On the Plaza de la Constitucion stands the old 

slave-market ; and the Huguenot Cemetery, the graves of Maj. Dade's command, the old 

convents and churches, the many attractive and interesting drives, and the vachting in the 

adjacent waters, furnish a great variety of interest for visitors to the American Riviera. 



ST. AUGUSTINE : THE PONCE DE LEON. 



176 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




ST. AUGUSTINE \ CATHEDRAL AND SLAVE-MARKET. 



Tallahassee, the capital, is purely a Southern inland city, famous for its flowers and its 
delightful society, and old-time traditions, and near the old Spanish fort of San Luis. The 
city stands on a hill 250 feet high, and overlooks many leagues of pine-forests, amid which 
rises the mysterious smoke of Wakulla. Pensacola, another old Spanish colony, has a 
noble harbor of 200 square miles, with a large export trade in lumber and fish. Fernan> 
dina is a pros- A perous old sea-port, exporting lumber and naval stores, with one of the 
best landlock- ^ ed harbors on the Atlantic coast, and a capital winter climate. A shell 
jMhK , t** . . . ^^vvv road leads out two miles to the firm 

and shining sands of Amelia Beach, 
twenty miles long, with hotels and 
cottages, and the best of surf-bath- 
ing. The Mallory line of steam- 
ships runs from Fernandina to New 
York. Palatka stands on a pleas- 
ant plateau, at the head of steam- 
ship navigation, 96 miles up the St. -John's, and in a rich orange country. It is an im- 
portant supply-depot and headquarters for travellers. Tampa, a very ancient little city, of 
Spanish origin, near Tampa Bay, is attaining importance for its cigar-factories, and its 
commerce with the West Indies. The Tampa-Bay Hotel is one of the most magnificent 
pleasure resorts in the Union, among the orange and palm groves and live-oaks along the 
Hillsborough River. Cedar Keys is one of the chief steamship ports of the Gulf coast, with 
a large trade in sponges and oysters, fish and turtles. 

The Railroads of Florida have developed their lines rapidly since the war, and have 
perfected their northern connections, so that Pullman vestibuled trains run from Jacksonville 
to New York in 30 hours, and to Cincinnati in 28 hours. The 
Florida Central & Peninsular Railroad runs southwest 156 miles, 
from Fernandina to Cedar Keys ; west 232 miles, from Jacksonville 
to the Chattahoochee River (where it connects with the Louisvillle 
& Nashville line); and south from Waldo to Tampa, 159 miles; 
with branches to Tavares (for Sanford and Orlando) and St. 
Mark's. The Jacksonville, Tampa & Key-West Railroad ascends 
the St. -John's River to Enterprise, and ends at Titusville, the metro- 
polis of the Indian-River country. The Orange-Belt line runs 
southwest 157 miles from Sanford to St. Petersburg, on Tampa Bay. 
The Florida Southern, South Florida, and other lines traverse long 
distances of the lower peninsula. The Plant system includes a 
large part of the Florida lines. The Atlantic Coast Line runs superb 
trains from Boston and New York through to Florida. 

Steamboats run daily from Jacksonville to Sanford in 18 hours; and smaller steamers 
run thence to Lake Harney. Another line runs from Palatka to Welaka, on the St. -John's, 
and thence 200 miles up the Ocklawaha River. A favorite tourist-route lies along the 
beautiful semi-tropical lagoons of the eastern coast, from Ormond-on-thc- 
Halifax, or from Daytona, along the sparkling green waters of 
the Halifax River, with sea-beaches and light-houses on one 
side, and pleasant embowered villages on the other. Below 
Mosquito Inlet, the steamboats enter Hillsborough Lagoon, 
and thence pass into Indian River by a canal at the Haul- 
over. Here they visit the maritime Titusville and the beau- 
tiful pleasure-resort at Rockledge and Jupiter. The most 
southerly railroad in the United States runs from Jupiter to 
Lake Worth, whose little steamboats visit several villages, 
the luxurious winter-homes of rich Northern gentlemen. st. augustine : old gate. 




AUGUSTINE TREASURY 
STREET. 





321,716 

40>496 
, 100,499 
$8,065,221 
92,000,000 
75,oco,ooo 
59.475 
II 
4,040 
137 
1,991 
4,532 



The aborigines of Geor- 
gia were the Cherokees, with 
6,000 warriors, occupying 
the highlands, north of 34° 
(the line of Elberton, Ath- 
ens and Marietta) ; and the 
various tribes of the Mus- 
cogee or Creek Confedera- 
tion, numbering 15,000 per- 
sons in Georgia, south of 34°. In the year i54oDe Soto 
and his 600 Spaniards marched from the Ocklokonee to the 
Ocmulgee, and to Silver Bluff, on the Savannah, 25 miles 
below Augusta, where they abode for some days. The 
army ascended the Savannah Valley to Franklin County 
and Mt. Yonah, and traversed the Alleghanies, by Coosa- 
wattee and Chiaha(Rome), entering Alabama by the Coosa. 
Everywhere they sought gold, and 20 years later Tristan de 
Luna and 300 Spanish soldiers marched from Pensacola to 
Cherokee Georgia, and opened mines which were worked 
for over a century. 

The foundation of Georgia is due to the benevolence of 
Gen. James Edward Oglethorpe, a veteran of Prince Eugene 
of Savoy's staff, and afterwards a member of Parliament, 
who established here a place where insolvents, prisoners for 
debt, and other unfortunates might begin the world anew, 
and where religious freedom should be accorded (except to 
Catholics). Parliamentary grants of ^/^ 180, 000 were made 
to further these objects ; and Oglethorpe sailed from Eng- 
land in the Anne, and reached Savannah (by way of Char- 
leston), February i, 1733, with 116 immigrants in his com- 
pany. The Creeks received these new neighbors hospitably, 
and they soon spread out over Darien, Augusta, St. Simon's 
Island and other localities. To this haven of peace came 
colonies of Hebrews, Moravians and Lutherans, and many 
Bavarians and Scottish Highlanders. In 1736 John and Charles Wesley came over with 
parties of Methodists ; and two years later George Whitefield founded the Bethesda Home, 
near Savannah. When the war broke out between England and Spain, in 1739, Gen. 



Settled at Savannah. 

Settled in 1703 

Founded by . . . Englishmen. 

One of the 13 Original States. 

Population, in i860, . . . 1,057,286 

In 1870, 1,184,109 

In 1880 1,542,180 

White, 816,906 

Colored, 725,274 

American burn, . . . 1,531,216 

Foreign-born 10,564 

Males, 762,981 

Females, 779,199 

In 1890(17. S. census), 1,837,353 

White 973,462 

Colored, 863,716 



Voting Population, 

Vote for Harrison (18 

Vote for Cleveland (i 
Net State debt (189c), 
Real Property, . . . 
Personal Property, 
Area (square r.iiles), . 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 
i\Iilitia (Disciplined), . . . 

Counties 

Post-offices, 

Railroads (miles) 

Manufactures (yearly), . . 

Farm 1 and (in acres), . 26,000,000 

Farm Products (yearly)8ii2,ooo,ooo 
School Buildings, .... 8,oco 
Average School-Attendance, 226,000 

Newspapers, 291 

Latitude 30021' to 35° N. 

Longitude, . . 80=48' to 85040' N. 
Mean Temperature (Atlanta), 61.1° 
Mean Temperature (Savannah) 65.5° 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Atlanta, 65,533 

Savannah, ... ... 43,189 

Augusta, 33.300 

Macon, 22,746 

Columbus, 17.303 

Athens, 8,639. 

Brunswick 8,459 

Rome . 6,957 

Americus 6,398 

Thomasville 5.5'4 







AUGUSTA : SOLDIERS' MONUMENT. 



178 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Oglethorpe led 1,000 troops against St. Augustine, and was beaten off. In 1742 Don Manuel 
de Monteano attacked Frederica with 50 vessels and 5,000 men, Florida and Cuban in- 
fantry, Spanish marines and Italic dragoons, and was defeated by Gen. Oglethorpe and 652 
Georgians, with heavy loss. But two causes worked against the success of the colony : the 
onerous military duties demanded, which caused many to migrate to the Carolinas, and the 
prohibition of slavery. The latter was removed in 1 750. The trustees of the colony were 
its law-makers (without pay), until 1752, when a governor and council were appointed by 
the British « King. In 1775 Gov. Sir James Wright fled, and Georgia, then a Province 
of 70,000 \ people, sent delegates to the Continental Congress. In 1778-79 British 
fleets and fT armies captured Savannah, Augusta and Sunbury, repulsing the assault of 
Lincoln and D'Estaing on the first-named town. After Charleston 
~' fell, Georgia was the scene of a bit-ter guerilla warfare, until Gen. 
Greene pacified the State. 

The territory of Georgia originally included the region be- 
tween the Savannah and the Altamaha ; and in 1763, after the 
wars with France and Spain, it was extended south to St. Mary's 
'^}- and west to the Mississippi River. In 1803 the State ceded to 
the Republic 100,000 square miles, west of the Chattahoochee, 
and out of this imperial domain Alabama and Mississippi were 
formed. The Creeks ceded to the United States, by the treaty 
of Fort Wilkinson, in 1802, the greater part of southwestern 
Georgia. In 1838 the Cherokees were transported to the West. 
When the secession movement began, in i860, Stephens and Johnson and others strenu- 
ously resisted it, their opponents being Toombs and Cobb. For a time it seemed as if 
the State would not secede, and the mountaineers of remote Cherokee Georgia never joined 
that movement, but caused much trouble to the Confederate authorities. Yet when the 
question came up for a vote of the people, 50,243 chose secession, to 37,123 voting for the 
Union. The chief events of the civil war on the Georgia coast were the occupation of 
Big Tybee Island by DuPont's Federal fleet (November 25, 1861), and the surrender of 
Fort Pulaski (April li, 1862), after a bombardment from Gen. Q. A. Gillmore's batteries 
on Tybee Island, which levelled much of its walls. DuPont captured and garrisoned 
Darien, St. Simon's Island, Brunswick and St. Mary's, and destroyed the Confederate 
cruiser Nashville in the Ogeechee River. The monitor Weehaivkcii captured the Atlanta, 
a Confederate ironclad, below Savannah. In the autumn of 1863, Thomas's and McCook's 
Federal corps entered northwestern Georgia, over Lookout Mountain, and flanked the 
Confederate army out of Chattanooga, compelling its retreat down the Western & Atlantic 
Railroad. Then suddenly Bragg and Longstreet turned, and threw themselves upon 
Rosecrans's advancing forces, at Chickamauga, and defeated them, in a three-days' engage- 
ment, driving them back to Chattanooga. In this costly battle, 112,000 
men were engaged, and one fourth of them met with death or wounds. 
Some regiments lost over 60 per cent, of their men. Viewing the num- 
bers engaged, and the time, Chickamauga was by far the bloodiest battle 
of modern times. In May, 1864, Sherman advanced from Chattanooga, 
and after heavy fighting at Resaca, New Hope Church, Kennesaw Moun- 
tain, and many other points, pressed Johnston's army beyond the Chatta- 
hoochee, and besieged Atlanta, which was defended by Hood. 
Within a month the two armies lost 20,000 men about this city, 
and then Hood retreated and Sherman occupied the place, early in 
September. November 15, 1864, Sherman burned Atlanta, and 
began the famous "March to the Sea," with 62,000 men and 65 
cannon, spread in a width of forty miles, repulsing the attacks of 
the Confederates. Macon, Milledgeville, Millen and other towns augusta ; old bell-tower. 




THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



179 




GRAND CHASM, 
TUGALOO RIVER. 



were captured, and finally Ilazen stormed Fort McAllister, and Ilardcc 
was compelled to evacuate Savannah. Three weeks later Sherman left 
a garrison at Savannah and started on his march through the Carolinas. 

For a few weeks Georgia possessed no government except that of the 
United-States generals, and then James Johnson became provisional gover- 
nor. In April, 1865, Wilson's Federal cavalry swept over Columbus and 
West Point, and near Irwinville, May loth, captured Jefferson Davis. 
In i860 Georgia had 462,198 slaves and 3,500 free negroes; in 1S80 it 
had 725,135 free colored people. Under the Reconstruction Acts of 
1867, Georgia was placed in General Pope's military command, and the 
next year the new constitution was framed, and a governor inaugurated, 
upon which the control of the State passed to the civil authorities. In 
spite of the devastation of war, the State gained 127,432 in population 
between i860 and 1870. Since 1880, a rapid and healthy development 
has gone forward, and the cotton shipments of Atlanta, Rome and 
Columbus, the cotton-mills of Augusta and Atlanta, the glass-works of 
Tallapoosa and many other industries have risen to commanding proportions. In general 
industrial and business development Georgia leads all the South Atlantic States; and with 
her noble railway system, her maritime facilities, and her agricultural and mineral wealth, 
lias a glorious future in view. She was the latest of the Atlantic States to be founded, 
hut her growth has been steady and vigorous, and she has become one of the leaders in 
the great sisterhood of States, filled with the splendid thrill of modern enterprise and 
development, and the fervor of a noble and patriotic American spirit. 

The Name of the State is thus derived : "The projected colony was called Georgia 
in honor of the reigning monarch of England [George II.], who had graciously sanctioned 
a charter so liberal in its provisions, and granted a territory so extensive and valuable for 
the encouragement of the plantation." It is now often called The Empire State of the 
South, in allusion to its rapid and enterprising industrial development. 

The Arms of Georgia, adopted in 1799, show an arch inscribed with the word Con- 
stitution, and upheld by three pillars, representing the legislative, judicial and executive 
departments. Under the arch stands a man with a drawn sword, typifying the military power 
ready to defend the Constitution. 

The Governors of Georgia up to the foundation of the State government numbered 
24. The State Governors have been : Geo. Walton, 1 789-90 ; Edw. Telfair, 1790-3; Geo. 
Matthews, 1793-6; Jared Irwin, 1796-8; Jas. Jackson, 1 798-1 801 ; David Emanuel, (acting), 
1801 ; Josiah Tattnall, 1801-2; John Milledge, 1802-6; Jared Irwin, 1806-13 and 1815-7; 
Peter Farly, 1813-5; Wm. Raburn, 1817-9; Matthew Talbot (acting), 1819 ; John Clark, 
1819-23; George M. Troup, 1823-7; John Forsyth, 1827-9; Geo. R. Gilmer, 1829-31 and 
1837-9; Wilson Lumpkin, 1831-5 ; Wm. Schley, 1835-7; Chas. J. McDonald, 1839-43; 
Geo. W. Crawford, 1843-7; ^'^o. W. B. Towns, 1847-51 ; Howell Cobb, 1851-3; Herschell 
V. Johnson, 1853-7; Joseph E. Brown, 1857-65; Jas. Jcjhnson (provisional), 1865; Chas. 
J. Jenkins, 1865-9 ; Rufus B. Bullock, 1869-72 ; Jas. Mil- 
ton Smith, 1872-7; Alfred II. Colquitt, 1877-82; Alex. 
H. Stephens, 1883; Henry D. McDaniel, 1883-6; John 
B.Gordon, 18S6-90; W. J. Northen, 1890-2. 

Geography. — Georgia is the largest State east of 
the Mississippi, a massive and compact domain of five 
sides, with its centre near Jeffersonville, which is also 
the centre of the colored population of the Republic. 
It lies in the latitude of Algiers, Asia Minor, Persia, 
Tibet, and Arizona. When the sun rises here it is noon 
in Switzerland, sundown in China, and midnight on the brunswick : m the pines. 




I So 



A'/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




KENNESAW MOUNTAIN. 



Pacific. Georgia is divided into three great sections, Lower, Middle and Upper, with widely 
different climates and products. Lower Georgia includes more than half the State, with an 
area of 35,000 square miles, covering the Pine-barrens and sand-hills, the Swamp Belt and the 
Sea Islands. Here also is the dark and impenetrable Okefinokee Swamp, 180 miles around, 
a region of dead pools and lonely islands, inhabited by bears and wildcats, and huge alli- 
gators and other reptiles. The inner recesses of this vast jungle have never betn visited. 
The peninsulas of high and arable land pushed into the swamp are called cow-houses, because 
the planters used to pasture cattle upon them, with a man at each isthmus to guard them. 
These places are inhabited by a primitive and 
hospitable people, who go out occasionally to 
buy salt, coffee, and tobacco. Lower Georgia 
includes the sea-coast, 128 miles long, or, count- 
ing the sounds and islands, 480 miles. 

The Sea Islands cover 500 square miles, and 
are overgrown with great live-oak and palmetto 
woods. The cultivation of cotton, once so 
prominent among these unhealthy lowlands, has 
now greatly fallen off. Jekyl Island, where the 
last cargo of slaves brought into the United States was landed, from the Wanderer, is owned 
by a club of Northern gentlemen whose wealth aggregates $500,000,000. It is one of the 
largest game-preserves in America, abounding in pheasants and quail, wild turkeys and deer, 
and has a costly club-house and admirable roads, with a sea-fronting beach thirteen miles long. 
Cumberland Island is 30 miles long, with magnificent forests of oaks, palmettos and 
palms. It was in olden times occupied by the Dungeness estate of Gen. Nathaniel Greene, 
of the Revolutionary army. This house has been replaced by the beautiful mansion of Mrs. 
Thomas Carnegie, of Pittsburgh. Light-Horse Harry Lee was buried at Cumberland, and 
Count Pulaski on St. Helen's Island. Among the other islands are Ossabaw and St. Simon, 
Sapelo and St. Catherine. The sounds of St. Andrew and St. Simon, Doboy and Sapelo, 
St. Catherine and Ossabaw have inlets from the sea, and are navigable for hundred-ton ves- 
sels. The harbors of Savannah, Darien, Brunswick and St. Mary's have from 14 to 17 
feet of water at low tide. 

The foreign export trade exceeds $20,000,000 a year, nearly all being cotton and naval 
stores, shipped from Savannah. The coasting-trade shipment is largely in excess of this, and 
includes early fruits and vegetables, fish and lumber, cotton and naval stores. Most of the 
domestic shipments are made from Brunswick and St. Mary's, the other two ports of entry 
in Georgia. Georgia has a mercantile fleet of 133 vessels, of 36,000 tons. These waters are 
famous for their fisheries, of pompano, red-snappers, sea-trout, Spanish mackerel and green 
turtle. The extensive Savannah and Ogeechee fisheries send the fast shad to the North. 

For a score of miles inland the land is about twelve feet above the sea. Then it 
mounts up to 80 feet, which average elevation it retains for 20 miles farther inland, rising 

there to 1 50 feet. In the next hundred miles, up 
to the falls of the rivers, the general height in- 
creases to 570 feet. The Hill Country, or Middle 
Georgia, includes an area of 15,000 square miles, 
between the falls of the rivers and the foot-hills 
of 1,000 feet high. The southern part is a broad 
plateau, breaking towards the north into parallel 
ranges of high hills, and rich in secluded valleys. 
The soil is a red loam, very much impoverished 
by long and exhaustive cultivation. 

Upper Georgia, otherwise known as the Moun- 
tain Region, or Cherokee Georgia, is a country 




-.■s;^^ 



-T-Zfr' 



STONE MOUNTAIN. 



THE STATE OE GEORGIA. 



i8i 




TOCCOA FALLS. 



of great landscape beauty, covering lo,ooo square miles of the 
Appalachian Range and its higher foot-hills. The Blue Ridge of 
Virginia and the Carolinas enters the State at its northwestern 
corner, and ends abruptly in the Atlanta region. In and near the 
odd angle of Georgia pushed up between the two Carolinas occur 
the noblest crests of this range : Sitting Bull (5,046 feet) and Mona 
(5,039), as the two peaks of Nantihala are called ; Mount Enotah, 
or the Brasstown Bald (4,797); and the Rabun Bald (4,718), not 
far from Rabun Gap. This region also contains the beautiful 
Tallulah and Toccoa Falls, and other famous cascades ; and many 
a charming valley, like Rabun and Nachoochee. The famous 
Nicojack Cave, in the Raccoon Mountains, is entered through a 
portal 160 feet wide and 60 feet high. The stream issuing thence 
may be ascended for three miles by boats, to a waterfall. Stone 
Mountain is one of the largest masses of granite in the world, and 
attains a height of 2,220 feet. Twenty miles west of the Blue Ridge rises the Cohutta 
range, 3,000 feet high, continuous with the Unaka Mountains of Tennessee, and fading away 
in the Dugdown Mountain of Alabama. The northwestern cor- 
ner of Georgia is occupied by Lookout and Sand Mountains, and 
their great plateaus, hallowed by the best blood of the Republic, 
during Sherman's and Johnston's campaign. 

The rivers of Georgia are grouped in the Atlantic, Gulf and 
Tennessee systems. The first includes the vSavannah, flowing south 
southeast 450 miles from the confluence of the Tugaloo and Kee- 
wee, in the Blue Ridge, and navigable for ships to Savannah, 
18 miles ; for steamboats to Augusta, 291 ; and (passing around 
the falls by the canal) for 150 miles farther (to Petersburg or 
Andersonville) by poleboats. Below Augusta many rich cotton 
plantations line the shores ; and farther down are broad rice-fields, 
succeeded by weird swamps whose live oaks are hung with gray 
moss. Sloops ascend the Ogeechee for 40 miles, and keelboats 
go up as far as Louisville, 150 miles. The river is 200 miles long. 
The tributary river, the Cannonchee, is navigable for 50 miles. 
In the southeast are the Satilla and St. Mary's Rivers, each with 
50 miles of sloop-navigation. The Oconee (navigable to Mil- 
ledgeville, the ancient capital), and the Ocmulgee (navigable to 
Hawkinsville, and formerly to Macon) rise in the Blue Ridge, and flow in parallel courses 
for 250 miles, uniting to form the Altamaha, which reaches the sea 155 miles from their con- 
fluence. Large vessels ascend to Darien. The Gulf system of rivers culminates in the Chat- 
tahoochee, 450 miles long, and navigable by large steamboats for 300 miles, from the Gulf 
up to Columbus. This river flows from the Blue Ridge down through the gold country, 
forming the frontier of Georgia and Alabama from West Point to Florida, breaking into 
white rapids and then into valuable falls at Colum- 
bus. At the Florida line the Flint River (navi- 
gable 250 miles up from the Gulf, to Albany) joins 

the Chattahoochee, and the two form the Appa- ^^^ 

lachicola River. The Withlacoochee and AUa- 
paha form the Suwanee. The Oostenaula and 
Etowah unite at Rome to form the Coosa ; and 
the Tallapoosa, another tributary of the Alabama, 
also rises in Georgia. The Oostenaula is navigable 
by steamboats from Rome to Carter's Landing, 




TALLULAH FALLS. 




BRUNSW.CK . ^O.ERS LIVE OAK. 



l82 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



105 miles ; and steamers ply on the Coosa from Rome to Greensport, 1 53 miles. In the north- 
west rise the rivers of the Tennessee Basin, draining 1,000 square miles of blue limestone 
country, with many rich and beautiful valleys. 

Climate. — Upper Georgia has a healthy and diversified climate, 60° in the valleys, 



and 50*^ on the 
The summer 
ter tempera- 





heights, with frequent snows in winter, and a clear and bracing air. 
mean is 75-3°; the winter mean, 42.8°. Middle Georgia has a win- 
ture of 47.2°, with occasional ephemeral snows, and a summer mean 
of 79°, with little rain and comfortably cool nights. The 
rich and swampy low country enjoys a delightful winter cli- 
mate (48° to 54°), but the six-months summer induces malar- 
ial, bilious and typhoid fevers, especially in unacclimated 
persons. The summer mean is 81.3°. The pine-barrens are 
SAVANNAH : CHATHAM-CO. COURT-HOUSE, morc hcalthv. 

The evergreen live-oaks of Georgia are famous for their excellence as ship-lumber, and 
grow abundantly in the southeast, finding their shipping-port at Brunswick. There are a 
score of other varieties of oaks ; six kinds of pines, including the valuable yellow pine ; six 
of hickories, the ash, chestnut, chinquapin, persimmon, haw, sweet -gum, magnolia, cypress, 
sycamore, tulip and other trees. Over 200,000,000 feet of lumber and timber, valued at 
$7,000,000, are shipped yearly. The great pine-barrens produce generously tar, pitch, tur- 
pentine and resin, of which more than $3,000,000 worth have been shipped from Savannah 
and Brunswick in a single year, much of it to foreign ports. 

The enormous product of the pine-trees of Georgia, in the way of naval stores, is shipped 
almost entirely from Savannah, whose wharves are sometimes laden with 100,000 barrels of 
these articles. Great attention has been paid 
since the war to this trade, and a large propor- 
tion of the turpentine and rosin used in the world 
passes out from the wharves of Savannah, the fore- 
most shipping-port for naval stores. Turpentine 
is an oleo-resinous substance obtained from in- 
cisions in pine-trees, and used for mixing var- 
nishes and paints ; and rosin is its residuum after 
distillation, and finds its use in soap-making. The chief commercial house handling these 
valuable products of the forest is Peacock, Hunt & Co., of Savannah, who have an honor- 
able distinction as the largest naval -stores factors in the world. They facilitate the course 
of trade by making cash advances to the manufacturers, and selling their goods on commis- 
sion. This business was founded in 1877, and has a capital of $500,000. It represents 150 
manufacturers of naval stores, whose yearly product reaches 80,000 barrels of spirits of tur- 
pentine and 320,000 barrels of rosin, valued at $2,500,000. 

Farming. — Cotton is the staple crop of the light and sandy soils of southwestern Geor- 
gia, and also comes in great quantities from the central counties and the sandy valleys of the 
north. This is the third State in the product of cotton, and has sent out nearly 1,000,000 
bales in a single year, including the bulk of the famous Sea-Island (or long-staple) cotton. 
Since the freeing of the slaves most of them have worked on the plantations on shares, vary- 
ing from one third to one half of the crop. Corn is grown 
all o.ver the State, to the extent of nearly 40,000,000 bush- 
els a year. Wheat, oats, clover, tobacco, sorghum and pea- 
nuts are also produced in great quantities. Before the war, 
rice was raised on the bottom-lands of southern Georgia 
to the amount of 50,000,000 pounds a year. The crop 
has never since then reached such figures, but is increas- 
ing from year to year, in spite of formidable competition 
SAVANNAH Ttelfair ART-GALLERY. from China. Sugar-canc grows frccly in the lowlands. 







SAVANNAH ; PEACOCK, HUNT i CO. 'S NAVAL STORES. 




THE STATE OE GEORGL4. 




SLOPE MINE, DADE COUNTY: GEORGIA MINING, 
MANUFACTURING AND INVESTMENT COMPANY. 



Sweet potatoes form one of the chief exports, reaching 
5,000,000 bushels a year. The fruits of Middle Geor- 
gia include the Scuppernong and Herbemont grapes, 
apples and pears in great variety, and luscious peaches. 
Fruits ripen 30 days sooner than at the North, and 
the truckers of the lowlands send immense quantities 
to New York, together with early cabbages and onions, 
beans and peas, potatoes and cucumbers. The low- 
lands produce oranges and lemons, bananas and olives, 
figs and mulberries, and early strawberries. The 
Georgia fruit-crop reaches nearly $1,000,000 in value. 
The watermelons of this region have long been famous 
as the best in the world. Besides the vast local consumption, millions are shipped North 
every season. It may be noted as a singular fact that Georgia has 144,000 mules (valued 
at .$13,754,000) to 106,000 horses ($8,736,000). There are also 1,000,000 cattle, worth 
$12,500,000; 500,000 sheep, worth $800,000; and 1,600,000 hogs, worth $5,500,000. 

The Geology of Georgia shows the variegated and plastic clays and deep white sands 
of the Southern Drift or Quartenary period, over the Tertiary, Eocene, Miocene, and Plio- 
cene, of the \ji\\ Counti} ; ihc cretaceous group, in the west and on the Ogeechee ; the 

,^^ ^^^ metamorphic granites, gneisses and schists of Mid- 

ji- ^^1 die and Northern Georgia, north of the Augusta- 

' 1 Macon-Columbus line, crossed by triassic trap-dikes 

and slates, and containing everywhere small quan- 
tities of gold and silver ; the Palalozoic sandstones, 
shales and limestones of the Blue Ridge ; and the 
carboniferous beds of the Northwest. 

Minerals. — The Alabama coal-beds run into 
northwestern Georgia, covering 200 square miles, 
and offering vast deposits of excellent bituminous 
coal, much in demand at the smelting-furnaces. The 
chief mines are in Dade County. Providentially near 
the coal-beds and limestone hills occur immense de- 
posits of red fossiliferous iron ore, covering 350 
square miles. Shinbone Mountain, running for 40 miles parallel to Lookout Mountain, 
is rich in this valuable mineral, which extends into the Lookout and Pigeon Mountains. 
Other ores of iron occur in great beds in the Chattoogata and Cohutta ranges. 

One of the largest and most important corporations in the world-renowned "New South" 
is the Georgia Mining, Manufacturing and Investment Company, under the presidency of 
Julius L. Brown, with his father. Senator Joseph E. Brown, as Vice-President ; Franklin 
Weld, of Boston, General Manager ; and Elijah A. Brown, Treasurer. The headquarters 
are at Atlanta. The paid-up capital is $1,000,000. 
This corporation owns all of the stock and operates 
the properties of The Dade and The Castle Rock 
Coal Companies, with lands in Dade County, and in 
Alabama and Tennessee, with their connecting rail- 
ways and coke-ovens ; The Georgia Iron & Coal Com- 
pany, and the Bartow Iron & Manganese Company, 
owning immense deposits and mines of manganese 
and hematite iron ores, and their railroads, near Car- 
tersville ; the Walker Iron & Coal Company, with its 
great Rising-Fawn furnace, and lands on Lookout 
Mountain, rich in fossil iron ores and coal ; and The ':;^:^;'.i,rir:^^.^:^\:Z^^. 




RISING FAWN FURNACE : GEORGIA MINING, 
MANUFACTURING AND INVESTMENT COMPANY. 




KING'S HANDBOOfC OF THE UNITED STATES. 




HYDRAULIC MINING BARTON COUNTY GEORGIA 
MINING, MANUFACTURING AND INVESTMENT CO 



Chattanooga Iron Company, with its furnace. Its 
two furnaces produce 1 60 tons of pig iron daily ; and 
its mines produce 160,000 tons of coal and coke a 
year. The total acreage of lands is about 48,000, 
with 227 miles of railroad. The union of so many 
vast and valuable properties under one control en- 
sures a most favorable advantage for the company to 
cheaply produce pig iron, concentrating under one 
management the mining of manganese, of iron ore, of 
coal, and the manufacture of coke by cheap labor 
which the company controls. 

The recent development of Georgia marble com- 
menced in 1885, since which time immense quanti- 
ties have been quarried, and the product has been distributed all over the United States. 
The principal advantages that this marble has over others are unusual strength and density, 
conclusively shown by tests and experiments made by expert authorities. It will not absorb 
moisture, and consequently does not disintegrate in any climate. This fact also renders it 
valuable for interior decorations, as it cannot be injured by any discoloring agents. The 
crushing strength averages 750 tons per square foot. The Georgia Marble Company is one 
of the most notable industries on this continent. 
It represents a value of several million dollars. 
It owns 6,172 acres of solid beds of marble, at 
Tate, in Pickens County ; and here there are 
five large quarries, equipped with the best mod- 
ern machinery, and producing 2,000 cubic feet 
of marble daily. Other features of this great 
plant are the three finely-equipped mills for saw- 
ing marble ; eight steam derricks ; a travelling 
derrick 500 feet long, capable of storing 200,000 
cubic feet of stone ; 30 steam machines for 
cutting marble in quarries; 16 steam boilers; complete machine-shops; 50 buildings, 
including tenement-houses ; and a standard-gauge railway of nearly seven miles, with loco- 
motives and equipments. The marble is produced in many different tints, as white, white 
with dark spots and veins, dark mottled and variegated blue, pink, salmon, orange and 
olive. This beautiful material is sent all over the United States, and used not only for the 
walls of buildings and their interior decoration in floors and wainscots, and mantels, but 
also for monuments and tombs, drug-counters and soda-fountains, imposing stones, butchers' 
and fish-mongers' tables, and many other ornamental and industrial purposes. It is a true 

crystalline marble, pre-eminent in strength, and 
showing a wonderful variety of colors. One of 
its chief virtues is an invincible non-absorbent 
quality, and this ability to resist all liquids gives 
it a peculiar value for public buildings. The 
deposits already bored and tested are sufficient 
in quantity to supply the world for centuries. 
Already the Creole, Etowah, Kennesaw, and 
Cherokee marbles of this company are widely 
in use throughout the Union, especially in banks, 
hotels, and office-buildings, besides for the ex- 
teriors of some of the finest houses in the country. 
The product of the Georgia Marble Co. 
TATE : GEORGIA MARBLE COMPANY'S DEEP QUARRY. was at first mainly used at Chicago, Cincinnati 




TATE: GEORGIA MARBLE COMPANY. 





WATERMELON CULTURE. 



THE STATE OF GEORGIA 

and other western cities, where there are many buildings con- 
structed thereof. As its fame became more widely known, 
large eastern orders came in, and now the business of the ' 
company reaches nearly every State, and the new product, 
whose existence was hardly known six years ago, is now one 
of the great staple commodities of the country. 

The Kennesaw marble is partly clear and sparkling white, 
and partly like veined Italian, in spots and lines of pale blue. '■ 
The Creole marble is a dark mottled variety, blue-black on a -^ 
clear white or gray ground, giving a very rich and beautiful effect. 
The 'Cherokee is white, or blueish gray, with darker spots 
and clouds. The Etowah includes pink, salmon and rose tints, and dark green shades, 
and many variegations and blendings thereof. Sometimes it has a peculiarly delicate and 
beautiful amethystine color. 

Gold was discovered in Habersham County in 1831, and the United-States Mint at 
Dahlonega coined over $6,000,000 between 1837 and 1861. The town of Dahlonega 
stands on the gold-belt, and precious nuggets and dust are found in its streets. Hydraulic 
mines were once worked, and much free placer gold rewarded the treasure-seekers. The 
word Dahlonega is Indian for "Yellow Gold." When the white Americans learned of the 
presence of the precious metal in this region, they entered on all sides, although the 
country by treaty and occupation belonged to the Cherokees ; and this invasion has always 
since been known as "the intrusion." Of recent years, northern capitalists have taken 
some interest in the abandoned gold-mines of Georgia, and the long lethargy which has 
enwrapped these hills seems to be nearly at an end. It is possible that in the remote 
depths of the mountain -land there may be vast treasuries of gold, to be discovered and 
exploited by future generations. 

During their palmy days, the gold-fields of the Southern Alleghany Mountains yielded 
over f 20,000,000. The coins minted at Dahlonega bore an initial letter D. The old mint 
and its ten acres of grounds were given by Congress to the State of Georgia in 187 1 ; and 
pertain to the North Georgia Agricultural College, a branch of the University of Georgia. 
The Cohutta Mountains have deposits of iron and maganese, lead, silver and gold. 
The State contains many other minerals, including mica and plumbago, soapstone and 
white and pale-green talc, asbestos and gypsum, kaolin and fire-clay, marl and phosphate, 

magnesia and barytes, copper and pyrites. Granite, slate and sandstone are quarried in 
great quantities, and diamonds, opals, rubies and other gems have been found, but in 

limited number, and of small value. 

The Government rests in a governor and executive officers elected by the people 

every two years. The governor appoints the commissioner of schools, and the railroad 

commissioners are elected by the General Assembly. 

The biennially-meeting General Assembly contains 

44 senators and 175 representatives, elected for two 

years. The Supreme Court has three justices, and 

there are superior and county courts, and courts of 

ordinary. The Constitution of 1868 excludes slavery 

and secession ; makes duellists ineligible to vote or 

hold office ; and gives the suffrage to every male citizen 

of Georgia. The Capitol, at Atlanta, is an imposing 

structure of Indiana stone, finished in 18S8, at a cost 

of $862,000, the funds coming from a special tax. 

The Georgia Volunteers form the largest militia force 

in the South, and include the First Regiment (Savan- 
nah), the Second, Third, Sixth and Ninth Bat- -^^^^ . qeorgia marble co. 




i86 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




talions, and l8 companies of infantry, eight troops of cav- 
alry, and two batteries. The Georgia Volunteers, Colored, 
include the First (Savannah) and Third (Augusta) Battal- 
ions, numbering eleven companies, and 14 unattached com- 
panies. The military spirit runs high among the young men 
of Georgia, but the State is economical in the equipment of 
her troops. The Chatham Artillery, of Savannah, dates from 
1786, and has volunteered in every war since. When Wash- 
ington visited Savannah, he presented the company with 
SAVANNAH : FOUNTAIN, FORSYTH PARK, two handsomc bronzc cannon, taken from Lord Cornwallis 
at Yorktown, and these venerable six-pounders are still owned by them. The colored 
militia companies are among the best in the Union. The police force of Savannah has the 
unusual organization of regular troops. 

The Georgia Lunatic Asylum, near Milledgeville, has 1,400 inmates (one third of them 
colored), with nine detached brick buildings. The Georgia Institution for the Education 
of the Deaf and Dumb was opened in 1846, in a log cabin at Cave Spring. It has 84 pupils. 
The Methodists have orphans' homes at Decatur and Macon. The convict-camps contain 
over 1,500 prisoners, nine tenths of whom are negroes. The yearly mortality, of nearly two 
per cent., is a terrible evidence against this system of punishment. 

The National Institutions in Georgia culminate in the new ten-company military 
post of McPherson Barracks, near Atlanta. The United-States Arsenal stands in the en- 
virons of Augusta. Fort Pulaski is a five-sided brick work, with casements and barbette 
batteries and a wet ditch, isolated among the marshes and islands, 14 miles below Savan- 
nah. It has been rebuilt and strengthened since the civil war, when it received a terrible 
pounding from the United- States batteries. Fort Oglethorpe is three miles from Savan- 
nah. Both these works are ungarrisoned. There are six light-houses on the Atlantic coast 
and 24 lights on the Savannah River. Near Anderson ville was the horrible prison -pen in 
which the Confederates kept 44,882 National soldiers, 13,000 of whom died here of hunger, 
disease, filth, vermin and despair. It was a side-hill field of 1,540 by 750 feet, surrounded 
by a stockade, with many sentries, and cannon pointing inward. The National Cemetery 
contains 13,714 graves; and another National Cemetery at Marietta enshrines the remains 
of 10,151 soldiers who died in the great campaigns against Atlanta. 

The Newspapers include 28 dailies, 195 weeklies, and 34 others. Eleven are devoted 
to religion, 9 to education, 6 to farming, and 5 to medicine. Prohibition, labor-reform, and 
woman suffrage have their local organs ; and there are several newspapers printed by and for 
the colored people. The Augusta Chronicle dates from 1785; the yl/rtfc7« Telegraph, from 
1826 ; and the Columbus Enquirer, from 1828. The literary products of Georgia have been 
among the brightest in American history, and include Harris's Uncle Remus, Longstreet's 
Georgia Scenes, Thompson's Major Jones, Smith's Bill Arp, Johnston's Dukesborough Tales, 
Col. C. C. Jones's brilliant historical works, and the poems of Hayne, Lanier, Randall (of 
]\Iy Alaryland), Ticknor, Wilde, Hubner and Father Ryan. 

The Atlanta Cotistitution is happily responsible for much of the prosperity of Georgia in 
its new developments of wealth and industry. This ~7""' ,_, 

great journal of the people and exponent of Southern 
thought and progress was founded in 1868 ; and the 
Weekly Constitution now enjoys the largest circula- ^ 
tion of any weekly edition of a daily paper in the jjHjjtfS 
United States, being over 1 50,000 copies each week. IJU^^w 
One of the chief texts of this paper has always been : " ji 
"If the South can keep at home the $400,000,000 . "?; ? 
received annually for the cotton crop, she will soon <%^ 
be rich beyond competition. As long as she sends it Atlanta : central railroad station. 





CONSTITUTION. 



THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 

out for the supplies that make the crop, she will remain poor." 
The enthusiasm with which the Constitution has kept this sub- 
ject before the people, and continually exploited the natural 
wealth, beauty and power of the South, has been a noble factor 
in the upbuilding of Georgia and its sister States. Among 
the gifted writers of this paper have been Henry W. Grady, 
Joel Chandler Harris (Uncle Remus), Howell, and others. 
The Atlanta Constitution is one of the most successful and 
most prosperous newspapers in the country. 

Education. — There was no common-school system before 
the war, although certain funds were allotted to the counties, 
for the teaching of indigent children. The general school-law 
of 1868 established a very efficient system of State, county 
and district schools. The fund is above $800,000. The Uni- 
versity of Georgia received its charter in 1785, and began its 
work in 1801. Since that time it has graduated many eminent and useful men, including 
Stephens, Cobb, Toombs, Hill and Johnson, 200 legislators, 26 congressmen, 60 judges, 4 
governors, and 2 bishops. In all its departments it has above 1,200 students. The 
campus at A.thens covers 37 acres of the high hills over the Oconee, besides the experi- 
mental farm of 60 acres; and the property of the University is valued at $700,000. There 

are free scholarships for 3 1 5 Georgians. The University 
has branch colleges at Dahlonega, Thomasville, Cuth- 
bert and Milledgeville, devoted partly to agriculture, 
the mechanic arts and military tactics and exercises. 
The State College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts 
occupies the Moore College on the University cam- 
pus. The Georgia School of Technology was 
opened in 1888, at Atlanta, as a branch of 
the State University, with 150 white students. 
It is a school of construction and a practical 
manufactory, well endowed and possessing fine 
brick buildings. The law-school is at Athens ; 
the medical school at Augusta. Emory Col- 
lege, with six buildings in an oak grove of 40 acres, on the high granite ridge of 
Oxford, was chartered in 1836, and pertains to the Methodist Episcopal Church, South. It 
has 15 instructors and 300 students, and schools of technology, law, telegraphy and design. 
The finest of its buildings is Seney Hall. Mercer University arose in 1838, at Penfield, and 
was removed to a fine plateau near Macon in 187 1. It is a Baptist institution, with affiliated 
schools of law and theology. Hearn Institute, at Cove Springs, is its preparatory school. 
Shorter College, for girls, founded in 1873, has handsome modern buildings on Shelton Hill, 
Rome, overlooking the Coosa and Oostenaula Valleys. The Wesleyan Female College on 
Encampment Hill, commanding Macon, dates from 1836, and has 300 students and over 
1,200 alumuK. This is the oldest college for women in the world. It has i one of the 
finest buildings in the South. The Medical College of Georgia, founded at ^^ Augusta 
in 1829, has become a department of the University. There 
are three medical schools in Atlanta. The Piedmont Chau- 
tauqua owns several hotels and scores of handsome houses, 
a great taljernacle seating 6,000 people, a gymnasium, a 
hall of philosophy and other college buildings, amid the 
emerald lawns, flower-beds and fountains of a beautiful 
park at Salt Springs, 21 miles west of Atlanta, on 
the Georgia Pacific route. There is another Chautauqua Atlanta ; school of technology. 





KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 



at Albany, in southwestern Georgia. The Telfair Academy of Arts and Sciences was founded 
about the year 1875, in the old Gov. -Telfair mansion at Savannah, and under the care of 
the ancient Georgia Historical Society. The art gallery contains many valuable paintings, 
and is under the directorship of Carl L. Brandt, N. A. 

The Catholics have academies at Savannah, Washington, Macon, Augusta and Atlanta. 
Pio None College, at Macon, is now a novitiate and training-school for Jesuits. 

The chief institution for educating colored people is Atlanta University, opened in 1869, 
and now possessed of 60 acres of land and four good buildings, with collegiate, normal, 
industrial and preparatory schools. Its graduates are mainly engaged in teaching. Clark 
University, at Atlanta, is a Methodist-Episcopal school, with four fine buildings and the 
well-endowed and prosperous Gammon School of Theology. It has also an excellent indus- 
trial school. The Atlanta Baptist Seminary has 146 students. The Morris-Brown College, 

overlooking Atlanta, was opened in 1885, having 
been organized by the ministers of the Afri- 
can Methodist Episcopal Church in 
"Jli^ Georgia. The Paine Institute, opened 








i-r-r '-'"' i/'^1|{ il«^^ jj^ Augusta in 1884, has 133 young col- 



THE PIEDMONT CHAUTAUQUA, NEAR ATLANTA. 



ored men and women, in normal, theo- 
logical, industrial and music classes ; 
and Spelman Seminary, at Atlanta, 
has 27 instructors and over 600 colored 
girls, with several valuable buildings. 
The leading libraries in Georgia are 
the State Library, 45,000 volumes; the University Library, 20,000; the Georgia Historical 
Society, 16,000; the Macon Public Library, 10,000; the Young Men's Library Association 
of Atlanta, 12,000; and Mercer University, 10,000. 

Chief Cities. — Savannah stands on a low bluff over the deep Savannah River, which 
here forms a crescent nearly a league long. It is one of the handsomest of American cities, 
embellished with many embowered public squares and the pine-shaded Forsyth Place, with 
its shell-walks and beautiful fountain (a copy of that in the Place de la Concorde, Paris). 
In these streets the camellias and oleanders grow as trees, and the sidewalks are overhung 
with orange and banana trees, myrtles and bays, magnolias and palmettos. In the suburbs 
is the famous Bonaventure Cemetery, roofed in by the interlacing branches of live-oaks, 
draped with hanging gray moss. Savannah has established a valuable system of railroads, 
which bring to her fine harbor the products of Georgia, Upper Florida, and much of Ala- 
bama and Tennessee. It ships vast quantities of cotton and lumber, rice and naval stores, 
the yearly exports exceeding ,$70,000,000 in value. Regular lines of steamboats ply on the 
inland passages between Savannah and Fernandina, Florida ; and a line of first-class ocean- 
steamships runs to Baltimore and Philadelphia, New York 
and Boston. It should be remembered that the very first 
transatlantic steamship was projected and owned in Savan- 
nah, and bore her name ; and sailed from this port in 1819. 
Among the most beautiful new buildings in Savannah are 
the grand and luxurious hotel, the De Soto, and the pic- 
turesque court-house of Chatham County. 

A short railway runs seaward to the summer-village of 
Isle of Hope, on the Skidaway River, near the Benedictine 
negro mission on Skidaway Island, and the site of George 
Whitefield's Orphans' Home. Farther down is the sea-view- 
ing bluff of Montgomery, the headquarters of Georgia 
yachtsmen. Thunderbolt, Beach Hammock and Tybee 
Island are other marine pleasuring resorts below Savannah. 




SAVANNAH BONAVENTURE CEMETERY 




THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 189 

Augusta, the third city in Georgia, receives 200,000 
bales of cotton yearly, much of which is brought in by 
huge six-mule wagons. The city was laid out by Gen. 
Oglethorpe, and named for an English princess. It 
stands on a fertile plain near the forest-bordered 
Savannah River, which is crossed by a bridge lead- 
ing to Hamburg (S. C.). The water-power canals cost 
ROME : SHORTER COLLEGE. ^3,000,000, and run eight completely equipped cotton 

mills, with 200,000 spindles. More brown goods (or unbleached domestics) are made here 
than anywhere else in America, and find a ready market in Africa and China. . Green Street, 
the pride of the city, is parked for two miles with four rows of stately trees, rivalling the 
avenues of Schonbrunn. The city has eight railways centering within its limits, and 25 miles 
of electric railways. 

Atlanta is 1,067 f^^t above the sea, and enjoys a cool and bracing highland climate. 
Numerous railways centre here, and have caused the charred ruins of 1865 to rise into a bril- 
liant and beautiful modern city, with fine public buildings and parks, manifold industrial 
enterprises, broad and well-paved and shaded streets, and a net-work of mule and electric 
cars reaching far into the country. The Piedmont and Capital-City Clubs are the chief social 
organizations. Atlanta is called "The Gate City," because it is the gateway between the 
great West and the Atlantic coast, by way of the rich cotton belt. Its suburbs are develop- 
ing with remarkable rapidity ; lovely wooded 
parks are being improved ; and handsome resi- 
dences adorn nearly every street. There is a 
more liberal and national spirit here than in 
any other Southern city. 

Rome, perched up on the northwestern 
highlands, is a well-known trade-centre, cot- 
ton-depot, and health-resort. Macon, on the 
Ocmulgee River, has half a dozen railroads, and 
a great country-trade, and serves as the chief 
cotton-market for several counties. 

Brunswick, 60 miles from Savannah and 70 
miles from Jacksonville, stands on a peninsula 
surrounded by salt water and sheltered by outer islands. Its streets are over-arched by 
live-oaks and cedars, palmettos and magnolias, and many Northerners find here an agree- 
able winter-resort. The imports and exports exceed $8,000,000 a year; and 24 steamers 
visit the port every week. This port is growing in commercial importance more rapidly 
than any other on the Atlantic coast, having quadrupled its population in ten years. Its 
magnificent harbor, deep, spacious and well-sheltered, is the ocean terminus of the finely 
equipped ., and far-reaching East-Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia Railroad. 

Darien is the distributing point for the Altamaha, Oconee and Ocmulgee, 
and exports over $1,000,000 worth of lumber yearly. 
Among the other towns are West Point, a place of cot- 
ton-mills ; Valdosta, productive of naval stores ; New- 
: nan, shipping much cotton ; Milledgeville, the an- 
cient capital ; Marietta, a favorite health-resort, near 
Kennesaw Mountain ; Griffin, with mills and country- 
stores, amid cotton-fields and orchards ; and Dal- 
y-. ton and Americus, trade-centres for broad rural 
;il_ countries. Thomasville is a well-known winter 
r^ health-resort amid the rolling Piney Woods, 350 
feet above the Gulf, wliich is 55 miles distant. 




^iscii: 



MACON ; WESLEYAN FEMALE COLLEGE. 



A-L'J 




MACON : U.-S. COURT-HOUSE AND POST-OFFICE. 



190 



A'ING\S HANDBOOK' OF THE CNirED STATES. 




across the fertile hills of Tallahassee. The climate is peculiarly dry, and hence favorable 
for sufferers from pulmonary troubles. Eastman, in the park-like upland pinery of Middle 
Georgia, has a great hotel, for its health-seeking pilgrims. Hillman, amid the high pine- 
lands 65 miles from Augusta, is famous for its great electric shaft, sunk to a ledge of 
alum rock, and visited by thousands' of rheumatics, who form electric circuits by touching 
hands, one of them resting a hand on the rock. The cures wrought by this simple process 
seem miraculous. The Bowden-Lithia Springs, near the Piedmont Chautauqua, send out 
great quantities of water in bottles, and are provided with singular hot baths. The Catoosa 

Springs, near Ringgold, are iron and sulphur ; the 
Madison Springs are near Athens ; the Bethesda 
Springs are 29 miles from Gainesville ; the Warm 
Springs (90°) on a spur of Pine Mountain, are 
tinctured with sulphur and iron ; the Red Sulphur 
Springs are near Lookout Mountain ; and the In- 
dian Springs (sulphur) are near Griffin. 

In 1S86, Savannah dedicated a statue of Gen. 
Nathaniel Greene, of the Continental Army. Two 
MAKitTTA. years later, she unveiled a monument to Sergeant 

Wm. Jasper. An older monument commemorates Count Pulaski, who was killed while 
leading one of the American columns in the assault on the city, in 1779. Augusta has a 
granite monument to the Georgia signers of the Declaration of Independence, and a marble 
memorial to the Confederate dead. Atlanta has a noble statue of the late Senator B. H. 
Hill, on Peach-Tree Street, its fashionable thoroughfare. 

The Railroads are controlled by three commissioners, with caution and conservatism. 
The Central Railroad of Georgia runs from Savannah to Macon, 192 miles, and Atlanta, 295 
miles, and leases 13 lines, including the routes from Millen to Augusta, 53 miles; Gor- 
don to Eatonton, 38 miles ; Smithville to Eufaula, Ozark and Montgomery ; Fort Valley to 
Perry, 12 miles, and Columbus, 71 miles ; Smithville to Albany, 24 miles ; Cuthbert to Fort 
Gaines, 22 miles ; Macon to Smithville, 83 miles ; Barnesville to Thomaston, 16 miles ; and 
Griffin to Carrollton, 60 miles. This company also controls lines in Alabama and South Caro- 
lina. The Savannah, Florida & Western Line was built in 1853-67, and is a part of the At- 
lantic Coast Line. It runs from Savannah to Chattahoochee, 258 miles, with branches to 
Albany and Monticello. From Waycross to Jacksonville, the distance is 34 miles ; and 
another line runs from Dupont to Live Oak. This is the main route to Florida. 

The Piedmont Air Line (or Richmond & Danville System) from New York to the remote 
Southwest, is carried through 100 miles of Georgia by the Atlanta & Charlotte Air Line, 
reaching the finest mountain- 
scenery in the State, and pass- 
ing near the celebrated Toc- 
coa and Tallulah Falls and 
the Nacoochee Valley. The 
Air Line is prolonged west- 
ward of Atlanta by the Geor- 
gia Pacific route, which trav- ailanta. 
erses Anniston and Birmingham and reaches the Mississippi River 459 miles from Atlanta. 

The East-Tennessee,Virginia& Georgia line runs from Brunswick to Macon and Atlanta, 
Rome and Chattanooga, 431 miles. The 189 miles between Brunswick and Macon were 
built in 1859-69, at a cost of $4,000,000. This important company has a vast business on 
its various routes, traversing regions singularly rich in minerals and in farm-products, and 
reaching the sea at one of the best harbors on the American coast. 

The Western & Atlantic Railway, 138 miles from Atlanta to Chattanooga, is the main 
highway between the Ohio Valley and the Southern Atlantic coast, and became the objective 




THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



191 



point of Sherman's bloody and victorious campaigns in 1864. It was built in 1850, at a 
cost to the State of about $7,000,000. There are many other railways in Georgia, of local 
value and importance. The Ogeechee Canal, joining the Savannah and Ogeechee Rivers, 
was built in 1829-40, and is 16 miles long, 120 feet wide, and three feet deep, and has five 
locks. The Augusta Canal runs from the Savannah River at Augusta, around the falls in 
the river. It was built in 1847, at a cost of not far from $1,500,000, and is nine miles 
long and eleven feet deep, with a strong current. 

Tallapoosa is a thriving and prosperous young city in Haralson County, in the mountain 




tion of 3,000 is composed 
dwellings, a score of fac- 
city, although settled 50 
old, yet it has municipal 
lights and water-works. 




TALLAPOOSA: GLASS-WORKS, IRON FURNACE, AND LITHIA-SPRINQS HOTEL. 



region of the northwest. Its'popula- 
chiefly of Northerners. Here are 700 
tories, and 50 business houses. The 
years ago, is in fact only three years 
government and institutions, electric 
Its chief industries are the Piedmont 
Glass-Works and the Tallapoosa 
Furnaces, both in successful opera- 
tion. Here are two banks, schools, 
churches and two weekly newspa- 
pers. Besides the three small hotels, 
the Lithia-Springs Hotel, now build- 
ing, will cost about $100,000. It is on the Georgia-Pacific Railroad, and the Georgia, 
Tennessee & Illinois Railroad is under construction. The recent growth of Tallapoosa 
is due to the energetic manner in which it is being developed by the Georgia-Alabama 
Investment & Development Company, a corporation officered by a group of able men, 
whose names have a national eminence. But the future is based on the wonderful 
resources within and around its borders, — the long leaf pine, hard woods, and charcoal 
timber ; inexhaustible quantities of steam and coking coal ; brick, terra-cotta and fire-clays ; 
building and glass sand ; clear mountain water ; gold, marble, and other minerals ; and 
a surrounding soil that is fertile for vegetables, cereals and cotton, and especially for profit- 
able fruit-culture. Tallapoosa, being on the western escarpment of the Piedmont plateau, 
and 1,200 feet above the sea level, has a fine climate, and is remarkable for its healthfulness. 
The Finances are in the prosperous condition shown by the fines and penalties, 
licenses and taxes more than meeting the State's expenses, while a sinking-fund is lowering 
the public debt. The lessees of the Western & Atlantic Railroad pay $420,000 a year to 
the State, and $25,000 a year is received for the hire of convicts. By the acts of 1879 and 
1887, pensions are given to all disabled Confederate soldiers of Georgia. The State's val- 
uation in i860 reached $646,000,000. Ten years later it had fallen to $268,000,000 as 
a result of the war, and the emancipation of myriads of negro slaves. 

The Southern Bank of the State of Georgia, at Savannah, operates under a charter 
from the State, but has no connection with it other than being one of its designated deposi- 
tories. It was started in 1870, just when the South was beginning to recover from the 

convulsion that had wrecked nearly all its finan- 
cial enterprises, and has kept pace with the growth 
of its section, and is now one of the most import- 
ant financial institutions south of Baltimore, and 
by far the foremost bank in Georgia. Its capital 
is $500,000, and its surplus fund and undivided 
profits $700,000, with deposits of $2,000,000 and 
gross assets of $3,600,000. Confining its opera- 
tions to no special lines, it has aided to develop 
each legitimate branch of business, and fostered 

SAVANNAH : ^ . 1-1 

SOUTHERN BANK OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. and cncouragcd every mdustry that promised to 




192 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




advance the interests of the community. An important feature is its Department of Savings, 
which, besides encouraging in all classes habits of thrift and economy, has saved from waste 
innumerable trifling sums which, by aggregation, form a large addition to Savannah bank- 
ing capital. As the development of the South — great as it has been — is only in its in- 
fancy, this institution has a future of which its past, though successful, is only an indication. 
S. M. Inman & Co. does the largest interior cotton business of any firm, not only 
in America, but in the world. From a small beginning of 1,500 bales of cotton for the 
year 1867 the business has steadily grown until now they handle between 300,000 and 
400,000 bales. Many of the largest mills in the United States are among their patrons, 
and they do an immense domestic business in the Atlantic States, while their foreign ship- 
ments are growing to colossal proportions. Every member of the firm is thoroughly trained 
in the cotton business by many years' experience, and their corps of assistants number many 
able and skillful men. The business in the Atlantic States 
is done under the firm-name of S. M. Inman & Co., with 
headquarters at Atlanta, Ga. ; while the business west of the 
Mississippi River, under the slightly different name of Inman 
& Co., for the mere sake of distinction, has its principal 
office at Houston, Texas. They employ in all the depart- 
ments of their business some 500 men, and have warehouse 
and compress accommodations for 50,000 bales of cotton at 
one time. With ample capital and unlimited credit, they 
are in the market throughout the season, and are always free 
buyers of cotton to fill the orders of their correspondents. 

The most interesting building in Atlanta for the wayfarer Atlanta : s. m. inman & co. 

in the Sunny South is the great Kimball House, where nearly a thousand guests may be enter- 
tained at once, K^ and supplied with all the comforts and luxuries demanded in this 

age of refinement and luxury. The original 
hotel on this site was erected after the Civil 
War, by an enterprising Northerner ; and 
after its destruction by fire, the present 
house rose on its site, for the benefit of 
pleasure-travellers, tourists bound for Flor- 
^ ^ ida and New Orleans, prospectors for busi- 

-|9 J-t^C^^'^M^^'T" "^^^ enterprises, and visitors who find de- 
1?'^'^^'' r|i , gS| ^' light in the pure air of Atlanta and the 
|fl[^l5^f^4|ijptlll beautiful scenery of the historic highlands 
- --:-'-'^:^~"'^''"^ of Georgia. Under the management of 
Charles Beermann & Co., the Kimball 
ATLANTA : KIMBALL HOUSE. Housc talvcs rank among the best con- 

ducted and most successful hotels of the whole country. It is situated in the heart of the 
city ; architecturally it is very attractive, and throughout it is handsomely furnished. 

Manufactures. — In 1880, Georgia factories, capitalized at $20,672,410, paid $5,266,- 
152 to 24,875 operatives, and from raw material valued at $24,143,939 made goods worth 
$36,440,998. Four years later the capital and products had doubled, with great cotton 
mills at Columbus, Augusta, Atlanta, Macon, Athens, West Point and Decatur; 32 
woolen-mills; $20,000,000 in iron and steelworks; and $10,000,000 in flour and meal 
mills. The prosperous manufacturing enterprises of Georgia have risen since the war, 
favored by admirable water-powers, cheap labor, exemption from taxation, easy transport 
by rail or river, and the presence on the ground of cotton and wool, coal and iron. The 
manufacture of cotton goods employs 10,000 hands, 8,000 looms, 340,000 spindles,, and 
produces $25,000,000 yearly, from 100,000 bales of cotton. Savannah makes parlor and 
sleeping and box cars. Atlanta has large street-car works and cotton-mills. 




f^%'iim\ 





334 

i8 

282 

$ 1, 200,000 
. 328,000 



Idaho lay hidden beyond 

the Plains and RockyMoun- 

tains for centuries after the 

settlement of the East, 

unregarded and unknown, 

except by the adventurers 

of the Hudson-Bay Com- 
pany. It is hard to tell 

how it came to be a part of 
the Union, whether as a fragment of the Louisiana pur- 
chase or as a section of the Oregon Country. The first 
white men in Idaho were Lewis and Clark's exploring 
party, in 1805-6, followed by the Missouri Fur Company 
and the Pacific Fur Company; byCapt. Bonneville, in 1834 ; 
and by missionaries. In 1834 N. J. Wyeth founded Fort 
Hall, which was an important point in emigrant days, being 
at the crossing of the Missouri-Oregon and Utah-Canada 
trails. The Territory of Idaho was formed in 1863, from 
parts of Washington, Dakota, and Nebraska, and then in- 
cluded the present Idaho and Montana and most of Wyom- 
ing. Attention was called to this mountain-walled solitude 
in i860, when thousands of Californian miners flocked into 
it, after the discovery of gold on Oro-Fino Creek. These 
adventurers aroused the hostility of the Indians, who 
fought them at many points, and the defiles of Owyhee and 
Salmon River often echoed with the terrible war-whoop. 
The U. -S. troops were withdrawn to fight for the Union, and 
this region was defended by the First Oregon Cavalry. In 
1883-84 occurred the Coeur-d'Alene stampede, when 5,000 
gold-hunters crossed the terrible snows of the mountains. 
The Name of Idaho is Indian in origin, and is said 
to mean "The Light on the Mountains," applied to the 
lustrous view of the snowy peaks at sunrise. Joaquin 
Miller says that the Indians pronounced it E-daJi' -hoe. 
Three names, Shoshone, Montana and Idaho, were submitted to Congress, and the latter was 
chosen, through the insistance of Geo. B. Walker, of Idaho, and Senator Wilson, of Mas- 
sachusetts. The Shoshones had a legend of a bright object falling from the skies, and 



Settled at Fort Hall. 

Settled in 1834 

Founded by .... Americans. 

Admitted as a State, 

Population, in 1870, .... 14,959 

In 1880, 32,610 

White, 29,013 

Colored 3>?97 

American-born, . . . 22,636 
Foreign-born, .... 9,974 

Males, 21,818 

Females 10, 79-' 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), . . 84,385 
I'opulation to the square mile, 0.4 
Votmg Population (1S80), . . 14,795 
Vote for Governor in i8go 

(Rep.), 10,262 

Vote for Governor in 1F90 

(Dem.), 7,948 

Net Territorial Debt, . . $200,855 
Taxable Property, . . $26,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 84,800 
U. S. Representatives (1893), i 

Militia (Disciplined), 
Counties, .... 
Post-offices, . . . 
Railroads (miles), 
Manufactures (yearly). 
Farm Land (in acres). 
Farm Population, . . . 
Farm-Land Values, . . $2,800,000 

Colleges, I 

Public Schools, 365 

School Children, .... 10,433 

Newspapers, 46 

Latitude, 3o°2i' to 25° 

Longitude, . . 8o°48' to 85040' W. 
Temperature, . . . — 38° to 115° 
Mean Temperature (Fort 
Boisej 52" 46' 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Boise City, 2,311 

Montpelier, 1,174 

Weiser, goi 

Paris, 803 

liellevue, 892 

Wallace, 878 

Lewiston, 849 

Caldwell, 779 

Grangeville 540 

Coeur-d'Alene 491 



194 



JilNG'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




EMIGRANT TEAM AT WATER. 



resting on a mountain, forever shining, but for- 
ever inaccessible, even to the bravest warriors 
and hunters. This they called Idaho. 

The Arms of Idaho bear a view of the 
Snake River, with the Owyhee Mountains on 
the left, and the Pannock and Bannock Moun- 
tains on the right. The crest is a full-antlered 
elk's head. The motto is EsTO Perpetua 
(" Let it endure forever "). 

The Governors have been : Wm. H. Wal- 
lace, 1863-4; Caleb Lyon, 1864-6; David W. 
Ballard, 1866-7; Samuel Bard, 1870 ; Oilman Marston, 1870-I ; Alex. Connor, 1S71 ; 
Thos. M. Bowen, 1871 ; Thos. W. Bennett, 1871-6; Mason Brayman, 1876-80; John B. 
Neil, 1880-3; John N. Irwin, 1883; Wm. N. Bunn, 1884-5; Edw. A, Stevenson, 1885-9; 
Geo. L. Shoup, 1889-90; and N. B. Willey (acting), 1890-92. 

Descriptive. — Idaho has been likened in shape to a great chair, with the Rocky and 
Bitter-Root Ranges as its front, seat and back. It also nearly resembles a right-angled tri- 
angle, whose hypothenuse is the Bitter-Root Range. The streams flow to the Pacific, 
except Bear River, which enters the Great Salt Lake. It is the twelfth American common- 
wealth in area, being larger than all New-England, 
and about equal to Pennsylvania and Ohio united. 
Utah and Nevada are on the south ; Wyoming and 
Montana, east ; British Columbia, north ; and Wash- 
ington and Oregon, west. The straight western 
frontier is more than 400 miles long ; the southern, 
300 ; the northern, 50, and the eastern border runs 
due north for 130 miles, and then follows the 
Rocky Mountains northwest. The mean elevation 
is 4,700 feet, the surfaces being greatly diversified, 
from the confluence of the Snake and Clearwater 
Rivers, 676 feet above the sea, to the summits of 
the Rocky Mountains, high above the snow-line. It is a vast wedge-shaped table-land, rising 
from the west to a height of 10,000 feet in the east, and, as Prof. Hayden says : "Literally 
crumpled or rolled up in one continuous series of mountain ranges, fold after fold." The 
great Wahsatch and Rocky Mountains extend along the southeast, and a small part of the 
Yellowstone National Park is in Idaho. The Bitter-Root Mountains begin near Gibbon's 
Pass, and run northwest to the headwaters of the St. Joseph, beyond which the Divide is 
prolonged by the Coeur-d'Alene Range. Central Idaho is a great mass of wild sierras, 
among which the Salmon-River and Clearwater Mountains extend for long distances, and 
the Sawtooth Range lifts its sharp rocky spires. 
Among these ridges are park-like valleys like 
the Camas Prairie, with 500 square miles of roll- 
ing farm-lands ; the Payette Valley, abounding 
in grain and cattle ; and part of the famous grain- 
bearing Palouse country, about Genesee. Boise 
Valley, sixty miles long, is a rich farming and 
mining country, sheltered by the Boise Moun- 
tains, and with large areas reclaimed by the canals 
of the Idaho Mining & Irrigation Company. In 
the east, the Lemhi Valley, seventy miles long 
and four to six miles wide, is famous for its crops 
and dairies. The Pahsamari Valley, twenty-five cabinet gorge, clark s fork. 




GREAT CANON OF THE SALMON RIVER. 




THE STATE OE IDAHO. 



195 




PORT-NEUF VALLEY- 



miles long, has great herds of cattle. In northern Idaho 
are the St. -Joseph's and Potlatch Valleys, and North Camas 
Prairie ; and eastern Idaho has in the Salt-River, Bear- 
River, North-Fork, South Fork, Blackfoot and Rome Val- 
leys a thousand square miles of good soil. 

The Surveyor-General divides Idaho into 25,000,000 acres 
of grazing lands, 10,000,000 acres of forests, 13,000,000 
acres of farm-lands, and 8,000,000 acres of sage-brush 
plains. Much of southern Idaho is a dry and black lava 
desert, 400 miles long and 50 miles wide, cut deep down, 
1,000 feet or more, by the sheer cafions of the Snake River and other streams, and by many 
great crevasses. The northern part of the plain has a wonderfully weird appearance, as of a 
black sea suddenly turned to stone. The soil elsewhere in the valley is sandy and un- 
stable, and the chief vegetation is enormous sage-brush and bunch-grass, but irrigation is 
redeeming it for farming. Within the bend of the Snake River is an immense basaltic 
plain, out of which rise the granite crests of the Three Buttes, famous landmarks for over- 
land emigrants. South of the Snake the valleys and foot-hills contain bunch-grass and 
arable bottom-lands, alternating with abrupt ranges of mountains, which are dotted with a 
few evergreens and aspens. The beautiful Malade, Cache, Gentile, Bear-River and other 
valleys open away into the Utah basin, and are occupied by Mormon hamlets, around which 
extend broad farms, with efficient irrigation systems. The Bear-Lake country has a moun- 
tain of sulphur, and deposits of lead and coal. The latter is 
also mined on Irwin Creek and at Lewiston. Close to Bear 
River is the health-resort of Soda Springs, with its alterative 
and tonic iron, sulphur and magnesia waters, sparkling, effer- 
vescent and pleasant, and highly charged with carbonic-acid 
gas. One of these fountains Fremont named the Steamboat 
Spring, on account of its measured puffs of steam. In this 
vicinity are sulphur lakes, a deep ice-cave, and the beautiful 
Swan Lake. The most famous springs are the Mammoth, 
Hooper and Ninety-Per-Cent ; and there are also mud, hot, 
ammonia, and gas springs. The waters are 5,779 feet above 
the sea, among the Wahsatch Mountains, in a pure and dry air, of great benefit to con- 
sumptives. They were a favorite resort of Brigham Young, and many Salt-Lake Mormons 
frequent them now ; and other well-to-do persons have built summer-cottages. The large 
hotel is called the Idanha. About 500,000 gallons of water are bottled every year. 

Bear Lake is a magnificent oval, twenty by eight miles, whose deep and mountain-fed 
waters abound in trout and mullet, and ripple up sandy shores below Paris, Montpelier 
and other peaceful Mormon villages. The valley is 5,900 feet above the sea, and Bear 
Lake remains ice-bound from January to April. Southwestern Idaho is occupied by a 
dreary alkali desert, out of which rise the Owyhee Mountains, famous for their silver-mines. 
There are 10,000,000 acres of forest in Idaho, producing a vast and valuable timber-supply. 

_ " White-pine logs 100 feet long and five feet thick 

p" "'^'^'**°''^'*'^^'^^" ~'"^^'°^^"°^^^^ '" " "^ have been cut on the Clearwater. In the south 
1^ . the forests are mainly along the highlands, but 

\ in the north they cover the entire country, and 

1^ include valuable tracts of red cedar, lodge-pole 

and yellow pines, and great spruces. 

The lakes of Idaho are its most beautiful fea- 
tures. Lake Pend 'Oreilles is thirty miles long 
and from three to fifteen miles wide, studded 
with green islands, and surrounded by Granite 




SCENE ON SNAKE RIVER. 



LAKE PEND 'OREILLES. 



lf,6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Mountain, the snowy Pack-Saddle Range, the purple Ca-ur-d'Alene Mountains, and other 
peaks, nearly 10,000 feet high. The seenery has been likened to that of the world-re- 
nowned Ktinigs-See, in Bavaria. The lake has 250 miles of shore-line, and is navigated by 
several small steamboats. The Northern Pacific Railroad follows the north shore for twenty- 
five miles, and has a summer-hotel at Hope. This fine inland sea abounds in trout, gray- 
ling and char ; and game-birds, 
and white-tailed deer, moose, 
forests. Coeur-d'Alene Lake 
the Cceur-d'Alene Mountains, 
E, with its branches pointing 
lonely shores are clad with 
The expanse is twenty-five 
four miles wide, wnth a 
wild Windermere of clear, 
abounding in trout and 
with millions of white- 
st. Joseph River flows into 
navigable for twenty-five 
the Coeur-d'Alene River 
the steamboats to Old Mis- 
whence a narrow-gauge railway 
the mining country. The lake 
terious swells, like the seiches 
kane River flows out of its 
miles west to the Columbia, like a great canal. 




SHOSHONE FALLS. 



black and cinnamon bears, mule 
elk, and caribou dwell in the 
fills a wide gorge in the spurs of 
and bears the form of a letter 
southeast. Its irregular and 
forests of pine and tamarack, 
miles long and from one to 
depth reaching 180 feet, a 
cold, light -green water, 
other fish, and stocked 
fish. The mountain-born 
its southern bay, and is 
miles ; and five miles below 
enters, ascended daily by 
sion, thirty-five miles up, 
runs to Mullan and Burke, in 
is agitated at evening by mys- 
on Lake Geneva. The Spo- 
northern end, and runs 1 00 
Farther north, under the lonely Cabinet 
Mountains, in a land inhabited mainly by caribou, deer and bears. Lake Kanik-su covers 200 
square miles. This remote locality, forty miles from the railway, is visited only by hunters, 
trappers and prospectors. Henry Lake and Cliff Lake, in the southeast, are surrounded by 
the high peaks and basaltic cliffs of the Rocky Mountains, each being above a league long. 
The clear, cold unfathomed depths of the Payette Lakes (one of which is ten by two miles) 
lie at the head of the beautiful Long Valley. 

The chief river is the Snake, called by the Indians the Shoshone, and by the early ex- 
plorers Lewis's Fork of the Columbia. It is a rapid stream, running for a thousand miles 
in Idaho, and draining nearly two thirds of its territory, receiving many large tributaries, 
like the Salmon, Port-Neuf, Wood, Boise, Owyhee, Weiser, and Clearwater, from the Idaho 
side, and many others from Oregon. These are valuable for mining and irrigation, but 
cannot be navigated, except the Clearwater. The Salmon River is 450 miles long, traversing 
a wild and picturesque valley. Around the headwaters of the Snake, near Yellowstone Park, 
there are rich bottoms, followed by 150 miles of valley-lands. The American Falls are 
forty feet high, plunging over a lava stairway ; and the 
Oregon Short Line crosses the river amid their roar 
and spray. Below Goose Creek the Snake enters a 
profonnd canon, within whose gloomy depths it flows 
for seventy miles. In this chasm the river, sweeps 
through a group of five volcanic islands, amid which 
occur several cascades ; and then forms the magnificent 
Shoshone Falls, descending in full volume, 950 feet 
wide, over a semi-circular cliff 225 feet high, torn by 
projecting rocks of jetty lava into cataracts of white 
foam and rainbow-crossed spray. At times the vol- 
ume of water nearly equals that of Niagara, and the fall 
is one third higher. Richardson calls it "a cataract , ,. ^. 

*= TWIN FALLS : SNAKE RIVER. 




THE ST. I TE OE IDAHO. 



197 




FERRY AT SHOSHONE FALLS 



of snow with an avalanche of jewels, amid 
solemn portals of lava, unrivalled in the world 
save by Niagara." This remarkable locality 
is twenty-five miles from the railway, by a stage- 
route over the olive and gray desert ; and has a 
hotel for tourists. The Twin Falls of the 
Snake River (150 feet high) are three miles 
above the Shoshone Falls. Forty-five miles 
below the river plunges over the Salmon Falls. 
The Snake is navigable from a few miles above 
the Boise River to Powder River, 100 miles below. 

The Hailey Hot Springs, high up in the Wood-River Valley, are strongly mineralized, 
and have a temperature of 144°, with a large hotel, and luxurious bathing facilities, sur- 
rounded by a beautiful park. Similar accommodations are provided at the Guyer Hot 
Springs (150°), near Ketchum ; and the Boise Hot Springs. 

The Panhandle is traversed by Clark's Fork, and the Kootenai and Spokane Rivers, 
affording attractive scenery. At Post Falls, on the Spokane, the deep, still river falls 
eighteen feet, and forty feet in rapids, making a valuable water-power for the lumber-region 
hereabouts. 

The Climate varies greatly, and the perpetual snows of the mountain-walls look down 
on lovely temperate valleys, dry and equable, and warmed by the winds from the Black 
Current of Japan. The plains have cold and bracing winters, between the severe climate 
of the mountains and the mildness of the valleys. * The summers are cool and pleasant. 
People with consumption and malaria, asthma and general debility, find this highly oxygen- 
ated air beneficial. Cyclones and floods are unknown here, and sunstroke and hydrophobia 
are equally strangers. Lewiston has a milder climate than Iowa, Ohio or New Hampshire ; 
and the higher placed Boise City is warmer than Connecticut. The sunshiny days number 
260 in each year. 

Agriculture in southern Idaho is based on irrigation, which causes oases of verdure to 

spring up in the arid desert. In northern 

^:- ''^~.zt^^^^ '' ^ ._, ■' ~-'~^ Idaho irrigation is not essential. The farmers 

find good markets in the mining camps. 
Among their products are over 1,500,000 
bushels of wheat and 1,300,000 bushels of 
oats yearly, with large crops of barley and 





STOCK RANCHE. 



SHEEP-SHEARING CORRALS. - 

potatoes, 530,000 tons of hay, and $1,000,- 
000 worth of fruits. Flax, rye, alfalfa, sor- 
ghum, and huge vegetables are produced 
abundantly. The untilled plains are rich in 
wild fruits, and flowers of great brilliance and 
beauty. The Mormons of the south also 
raise large crops of cereals. The grazing capabilities are availed of by 600,000 horses and 
cattle, and 350,000 sheep, yielding 2,000,000 pounds of wool yearly. They winter in the 
open air and fatten on bunch-grass and white sage. 

Mining has been hampered by the remoteness of the railroads, yet some of the richest 
placers and veins in America are worked here ; and the Rocky-Mountain range for 400 miles 
abounds in gold and silver. Gold was discovered as early as 1852 ; and again on Oro-Fino 




BRANDING CATTLE, 



KING'S HANDBOOK 0I<' TIIK UNITED STATES. 

Creek in tS6o ; at Boise, in 1862; and in the Owyhee 
Mountains in 1863. The State has produced above 
$160,000,000 in the precious metals. The early pro- 
ducts came mainly from the gold placers, by sluice and 
hydraulic methods. The "flour gold," of the river- 
sands, was so fine that it had to be separated by slowly 
running it over mercury-covered electro-plated sheets 
of silver. Owyhee County, larger than Massachusetts, 
has the Oro-Fino, Poorman and other gold and sil- 
ver mines, very rich in ore, but expensive to work. 
The Wood-River district of Alturas County produces 
several million dollars' worth of silver-bearing lead 
yearly, and considerable gold, with a dozen concentrators and a score of smelting works and 
mills ; and has numerous mining-villages, toward the Sawtooth Mountains. The placers of 
Snake River and the silver-lodes about Boise and Atlanta are also worked with profit. The 
Leesburg district has produced $7,000,000 in placer-gold; and Lemhi County has rich 
regions of gold quartz and silver carbonates. The Custer-County mines have produced 
over $10,000,000, from the Custer, Charles-Dick- 
ens, Bay-Horse, and other lofty mountain-mines. 
The Warren and Elk-City districts of Idaho 
County have many gold and silver mines. The 
Coeur-d'Alene region has developed placer-gold, 
with great silver and lead mines along* the South 
Fork and the Bitter-Root Mountains. Thousands 
of miners are at work here. Ledges of free-mill- 
ing chloride of silver were discovered in 1888, 
south of Lake Pend 'Oreilles ; and there are gold- 
mines along Clark's Fork. The Peacock copper-mines are near the Snake River, and 
4,000 feet above it, and the other wonderful deposits of the Seven-Devils region are now 
coming into notice. The Lost-River copper mines are very rich. Iron has been found at 
many points. There are large mica deposits on the Middle Weiser, and elsewhere. The 
Goose-Creek valley has mines of coal, or brown lignite. Marble is quarried on the Snake, 
and large deposits of it occur elsewhere. Granite, limestone and sandstone are also found. 
The Oneida Salt Works have produced 2,000,000 pounds a year of the purest and whitest 
salt, made by boiling the water which flows freely from saline springs near the Old Lander 
Emigrant Road. 

The Government lies in the hands of a governor and executive officers, and a biennial 
legislature. There are eighteen senators and thirty-six representatives. The Capitol was 
erected in 1 885-7, in the centre of a square given by Boise City, a pleasant tree-shaded 
town in a rich fruit country. This is the social centre of the State, and the quaint norias 

or water-wheels in front of its cottages pour re- 
freshing streams into the gardens. Near the city is 
the beautiful and secluded Cottonwood Canon. 
The 120 local convicts are kept in the United- 
States Penitentiary, two miles east of Boise City. 
The Insane Asylum at Blackfoot has about fifty 
inmates. 

The public schools are supported by local taxa- 
tion, and endowed with two sections of land in each 
township. Much opposition has been made to (he 
schools in the Mormon counties of the South. The 
'THE POORMAN ■ dUR D ALENE MiNMG DISTRICT. State Uuivcrslty at Moscow has a valuable land- 




COWBOYS NOONING. 




THE STATE OE IDAHO. 



199 




grant. Wilbur College at Lewiston, is a 
Methodist school, with sixty-seven stud- 
ents ; and there are other sectarian schools. 
Idaho has 48 Mormon churches, with 
237 high priests, and 15,000 members ; 7 
Catholic churches, and 7 Presbyterian, 9 
Episcopalian and 5 Baptist churches. 

The first printing press west of the 
Rocky Mountains, and north of California, 
was given by the Protestant native church 

of the Sandwich Islands, and set up in 1836 at the Lap-wai Mission, 
Idaho, for printing books in the Nez-Perce language Idaho now 
has thirty-seven newspapers, three of which are daily. 

Fort Sherman was established by Gen. Sherman at the north end of the beautiful Coeur- 
d'Alene Lake, ten miles from Rathdrum station, and is aji eight-company post. Boise 
Barracks is a two-company post, not far from the Capitol, with handsome stone buildings, 
on a reservation a mile square. The United-States Assay Office occupies a massive stone 
building at Boise City. 

Paris, on Bear Lake, 5,836 feet above the sea, is the capital of the Mormon settlements 
made in 1863, and has a many-colored granite Mormon Tabernacle, the finest church in 

Idaho. Silver City is the metropolis of the 
Owyhee silver-mines. Murray nestles in a 
deep ravine, near the famous Dream Gulch. 
Florence, 6,265 f^^^ above the sea, is one of 
the loftiest villages in the State. 

Railroads. — The long valleys of Idaho 
furnish available routes for railways, of which 
there are Soo miles in operation, although in 
1876 not a rail had been laid. The Oregon 
Short Line runs for 481 miles in Idaho, 
through the Bear-Lake country, down the 
savage Port-Neuf Canon, across Snake River 
and its illimitable lava-beds, and through the fruit country from the Malade to the Weiser. 
A branch line runs from Shoshone to Ketchum (sixty-nine miles) ; and the Idaho Central 
runs from Nampa to Boise City. The Utah & Northern, one of the most important nar- 
row-gauge railways in the world (454 miles long), traverses the eastern side of Idaho for 
2065- miles, crossing the Oregon Short Line at Pocatello, and ascending the Snake valley 
many leagues, after which it climbs the Rockies to Monida, and traverses Montana to the 
Northern Pacific Railroad. Its southern terminus is at Ogden, Utah, on the Union Pacific 
Railway, which owns a majority of its stock. The Northern Pacific Railroad crosses 
northern Idaho from Heron to Mauser. A branch leads from Hauser Junction to Cceur- 
d'AleneCity, thirty-three miles, whence 
steamboats run to Old Mission, connect- 
ing with a railway to Mullan and Burke, 
and to Missoula, Montana. Another 
branch reaches Genesee. The Great 
Northern Railway is being built across 
Northern Idaho. 

Steamboats run on the Snake be- 
tween Lewiston and Riparia ; on the 
Lower Clearwater, from Lewiston to 
the North Fork; and on the Coeur- 





A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



d'Alene Lake and River. Two steamboats run on Lake Pend 'Orcilles. Stages traverse 
the roads in every direction. 

The flour-mills and lumber-mills of Idaho produce over $1,000,000 yearly, and form 
its chief manufacturing interests, outside of the production of bullion. 

The Shoshones, or Snake Indians, are a peaceable and industrious tribe, good horsemen 
and hunters, and now turning to agriculture. The Lemhi Reservation of 106,000 acres 
and the Fort-Hall Reservation of 1,200,000 acres (with an industrial school), are set apart 
for the Shoshones and their offshoot tribes, the brave but uncivilized Bannocks, and the 
barbaric Sheep-eaters. There are 2,200 Indians at these agencies. The western Shoshone 
Reservation, in Owyhee, has 400 inhabitants. The Shoshones and Nez Perces have been 
among the firmest friends of the Americans. The Sahaptins were called Nez Perces by the 
French voyageurs, from N^ez Pres, "Flat-Noses," or perhaps because they pierced their nos- 
trils to receive shell-ornaments. In 1855 they divided into the Treaty and Non-Treaty 
tribes, one settling on the Lapwai Reservation and the other 
roaming free. In 1877 an attempt was made to force the 
Non-Treaties to live at Lapwai, but under Chief Joseph's lead 
they defeated Col. Perry in White-Bird Canon ; gave Gen. 
Howard a long day's battle on the Clearwater ; crossed theBittci - 
Root Mountains ; defeated Gen. Gibbon ; recrossed to Horse 
Prairie ; surprised Howard's camp and stampeded his horses ; 
then entered the Yellowstone Park, and endeavored to reach 
Canada. One band succeeded, but the main body suffered 
capture at the Sweet-Grass Hills, in Montana, and were taken 
to Leavenworth and Indian Territory. Seven years later most 
of them returned to Lapwai and the Colville Reservation. 
There are 1,200 Nez Perces here, with schools and farms, on a fertile reservation of 
746,651 acres. In 1S89 Special- Agent Alice S. Fletcher began to allot the land to them in 
severalty. The Skizoomish Indians were named by the early French voyageurs Awl-Hearts 
("Coeur-d'Alene"), indicating that their spirits were small and hard, as shown by their 
shrewdness in trade. In 1820 they numbered 2,000, but there are only 250 left now, 
although the tribe has never been at war with the United States. They are self-supporting 
farmers, educating their children at the nuns' schools, and attending the Catholic Mission 
of the Sacred Heart, founded in 1841. Their reservation covers 600,000 acres, near Coeur- 
d'Alene Lake. The Kootenais in the north, are reputed to be gentle and honest, but poor 
and lazy. 




LAKE PEND 'OREILLES MISSION. 



" It was the common judgment of the first explorers that there was more of strange and 
awful in the scenery and topography of Idaho than of the pleasing and attractive. A more 
intimate acquaintance with the less conspicuous features of the country revealed many 
beauties. The climate of the valleys was found to be far milder than from their elevation 

could have been expected. Picturesque lakes 
\\ ere discovered nestled among the mountains, or 
liiinishing in some instances navigable waters. 
I ish and game abound. Fine forests of pine and 
fir cover the mountain-slopes, except in the lava 
region ; and nature even in this phenomenal part 
of her domain, had not forgotten to prepare the 
earth for the occupation of man, nor neglected 
to give him a wondrously warm and fertile soil to 
compensate for the labor of subduing the savagery 
of her apparently waste places." 

LAKE CCEUR D'ALENE. HUBERT HoWE BANCROFT. 



E 


E^ ^:j^^i--i_^^-/k --■ 






Settled at . . 
Settled in . . 
Founded by 
Admitted as a State, 
Population, in i860, 

In 1870, . . 

In :88o, . . 



1,711,951 
2,539,891 
3.077.871 
3,031,151 
. 46, 720 
2.494.295 
. 583.576 
1,586,523 
1,491,348 
3,826,351 



5T0KY. 

In the dawn of its his- 
tory Illinois is seen thinly 
populated by tribes of sav- 
ages, forever at war, and 
wreaking upon each other 
the most horrible tortures. 
The Illinois were a con- 
federacy of Algonquin In- 
dians, including the Peoria, 

Kaskaskia,Cahokia,Tamaroa,and Michigan tribes, dwelling 

in and near the State that commemorates the name. They 

drove out the Arkansas ; nearly annihilated the Winne- 

bagoes, in 1640; suffered murderous defeat by the Iroquois, 

in 1680, losing 1,300 warriors; fought the Sioux; attacked 

the frontiers of Virginia ; joined the French in fighting the 

Chickasaws; and in 1719 were quite naturally reduced to 

3,000 persons. After a season of war against the United 

States, the fragments of the nation were led by their chief, 

Du Quoin, to the Indian Territory. The Kickapoos origi- 
nally occupied the region south of Lake Michigan, whence 

they advanced southward to the Sangamon. They were 

the most implacable enemies of the Republic, and fought 

Harrison, Harmar, St. Clair and Wayne, and when ex- 
pelled from Illinois they migrated to Mexico, to escape 

American rule. 

The first Europeans to visit this land of massacre were 

the envoys of religion and commerce. Pushing westward 

from the rock of Quebec into the vast continental wilder- 
ness, the heroic Champlain reached Lake Huron in 1615, 

and Jean Nicolet discovered Lake Michigan in 1634. In 

1673 Father Marquette and Louis Joliet (a Quebec-born 

fur-trader) crossed Wisconsin by the Fox and Wisconsin 

Rivers, and descended the majestic Mississippi, being the 

first Europeans to see Illinois, whose people welcomed 

them with festivals and peace-pipes, as they ascended the tranquil Illinois River. Incited 

by Joliet, La Salle and Tonti in 1679, made further exploration. Near the site of Buffalo 

(N. Y. ) they built the Griffin, and thus sailed to the Wisconsin shore, and presently ascended 



STATISTICS. 



White, . . . 
Colored, . , 
American-born, 
Foreign-born, 
Males, . . . 
Females, . . 
In 1890 (U. S. census^ 
Population to the square mile, 55 

\^oting Population 796,847 

Vote for Harrison (1888), . 370,475 

Vote for Cleveland (1888), . 348,371 

Net State debt, exceeded by funds 

in hand. 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . . $727,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 56,650 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 22 

-Militia (Disciplined), . . . 4,045 

Counties 102 

Post-offices, 2,462 

Railroads (miles), .... 10,214 
Manufactures (yearly), $415,000,000 
Farm Land (in acres), . . 32,500,000 
Farm-Land Values, $i,oio,ooo,coo 
Public School Average At- 
tendance, 518,043 

Newspapers, 1,714 

Latitude, . . 360:^9' to 42°3o' N. 
Longitude, . . 87°35' to gi°4o' W. 
Mean Temperature (Keloit), 47/^° 
Mean Temperature (Cairo), 585^° 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Chicago, 1,099,850 



Peoria, 
Quinc)', . . 
Springfield, 
Rockford, . 
Joliet, . . 
Rloomington, 
Aurora, . . 
Elgin, . . 
Decatur, 



41,024 
31,494 
24.963 
23.584 
23,264 
20,484 
19,688 
17,823 
16.841 



202 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




the St. -Joseph, and in canoes drifted down the Kankakee, a 
quiet five-foot stream, zig-zagging through the tall prairie- 
grasses. Tonti was a witness of the unspeakable horrors of the 
Iroquois invasion, when hundreds of Illinois women and chil- 
dren were burnt at the stake. Subsequently La Salle formed 
a confederation of Kickapoos, Miamis, Illinois, Piankeshaws 
and Shawnees, with above 2,000 warriors, defended by earth- 
works, and grouped about Fort St. Louis, near Starved Rock. 
Tn 1680 La Salle and Hennepin founded Fort Creve-Cceur. 
Cahokia and Kaskaskia were established as Catholic missions, 
and an important French commerce flowed between the Great 
CHICAGO THE CRIB, LAKE MICHIGAN j^akcs and thc Mississippi Vallcy, by the Chicago and Illinois 
Rivers. The French colonies flourished, and developed farms and mills, chapels and forts, 
in the American Bottom, and lived at peace with the Indians. The country was governed 
first from Quebec, and then from New Orleans, until 1763, when it passed by cession into 
the hands of Great Britain. Capt. Sterling of the 42d Highlanders, then became its gov- 
ernor, arriving at Fort Chartres in 1765. The chief French villages were Notre Dame de 
Cascasquias (Kaskaskia), with its stone monastery and fortress ; St. Famille de Kaoquias 
(Cahokia), founded by Canadians who married Cahokia squaws ; and Prairie du Rocher, 
near old Fort Chartres. The French Illinoisans dwelt in thatched and white-washed one- 
story houses, and dressed in white capotes, coarse 
blue garments and moccasins. 

Virginia had always claimed the country north- 
west of the Ohio as hers by right of charter, and 
in 1778 Col. George Rogers Clark, acting under 
her authority, chose 150 men, with whom he de- 
scended the Ohio to near Fort Massac. Thence 
they marched for several days, and seized the 
sleeping town of Kaskaskia. The French people 
gladly took the oath of allegiance to the United 
States, and persuaded their compatriots at Cahokia 
and Vincennes to embrace the American cause. Virginia governed her conquest by county 
lieutenants, and the earliest American immigrants were Virginians, who, in 17S1, settled 
along the American Bottom. The magnanimous cession of the Northwest Territory to the 
Union, made by Virginia in, 1784, placed Illinois under the National jurisdiction. In 1809 
the Illinois Territorial government was organized, including Wisconsin, Michigan and Min- 
nesota. The population in 1800 was 2,358, largely French; and during the next ten years 
10,000 immigrants came in, mainly from the Southern States. During the decade 1830-40, 
the population increased 318,738, and in the next decade the increase was 375,281. Fort 
Dearborn was erected by the Government at Chicago in 1804. In 181 2 it was evacuated 

by the garrison, under orders, but before they had 
marched a league on their way to Fort Wayne, 
500 Pottawatamies attacked the little column, and 
massacred two thirds of them, capturing the re- 
mainder and holding them for ransom. 

The Mormons founded the city of Nauvoo, on 
the Mississippi, in 1840, and erected an imposing 
temple ; but their doctrines aroused among the 
settlers an opposition which became serious. In 
1844, Joseph and Hiram Smith, the Mormon 
chiefs, were put in prison at Carthage, where 
a mob overpowered the guards, and slew the 




PEGUM-SAUGUM POINT, NEAR LA SALLE. 




STARVED ROCK AND ILLINOIS RIVER. 



THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



203 




captives. After a cannonade of a long day's duration between five Illinois and five Mor- 
mon guns, in which 800 cannon-balls were fired, Nauvoo surrendered, and its people suf- 
fered ejectment. A year later, the Mormons abandoned Nauvoo, and set out on their 
march beyond the Rocky Mountains, to found new homes by the Great Salt Lake. 

Six regiments went from Illinois to the Mexican War. As soon as the late civil war 
broke out, Gov. Yates garrisoned Cairo, and put Illinois in line of battle. 
During the war she sent out 156 regiments of infantry and 17 of cavalry, 
and 33 batteries, numbering 259,092 men. Of these 5,888 were killed in 
battle, 3,022 died of their wounds, 19,596 died of disease, and 967 died in 
Southern prisons. May 23, 1878, 340 flags and guidons borne by the Illinois 
volunteers were transferred from the State Arsenal to the Memorial 
Hall in the State House, with imposing military ceremonies, and 
under the escort of marching columns. 

The vast inflowing of immigration, the development of internal 
improvements, and the legislative settlement of important local ques- 
tions give material for many interesting chapters of history. The 
latest dramatic scene on Illinois soil occurred May 4, 1886, when 180 Chicago: douglas monument. 
policemen, endeavoring to disperse an Anarchist mob in Chicago, were attacked with dyna- 
mite and revolvers, and lost seven killed and sixty wounded. Seven of the leading Anar- 
chists were tried and convicted ; four were hung, two went to prison, and one committed 
suicide. Thus fell the power of anarchy in the New World. 

The Name of the State is a Canadian-French attempt to express the word Illinhvik, 
which in Algonquin is a verbal form, "We are men." The ivek gradually got written ois, 

pronounced way. We say lUy-noy ; but the French 
said Illeenweek. This account agrees with Albert 
Gallatin, who translated the word Illini (the same as 
Lent of the Delawares) as Superior Men or Real Men. 
Among the pet names for Illinois are The Prairie 
State, The Garden of the West, and The Sucker State. 
The term Sucker as applied to an Illinoisian is attributed 
to a Missourian, who said to a party of Illinois men 
going home from the Galena mines: "You put me in 
mind of suckers; up in the spring, spawn, and all return in the fall." The old-time lead- 
miners always passed their winters at home, returning to Galena in the season when the 
sucker-fish were running plentifully. Douglas said : When George Rogers Clark's brave 
little army of Virginians charged into Kaskaskia, they perceived the French citizens sitting 
on their verandahs and imbibing mint-juleps through straws. In thunder tones the rangers 
shouted: "Surrender, you suckers. " 

The State Arms bear an American spread eagle, perched upon a boulder on the 
prairie, with a rising sun in the background. This device has been in use since 1819. 
The motto is : State Sovereignty — National Union. 

The Governors of Illinois have been : Terri- 
torial — Ninian Edwards, 1809-18. State — Shad- 
rach Bond, 1818-22 ; Edward Coles, 1822-26; 
Ninian Edwards, 1826-30; John Reynolds, 1830-4; 
Wm. L. D. Ewing (acting), 1834; Jos. Duncan, 
1834-8; Thos. Carlin, 1838-42; Thos. Ford, 
1S42-6 ; Aug. C. French, 1846-53; Joel A. Mat- 
teson, 1853-57; Wm. H. Bissell, 1857-60; John 
Wood, 1 860- 1 ; Richard Yates, 1861-5 ; Richard 

J. Oglesby, 1865-9, and 1873; John M. Palmer, ^ 

1S69-73; John L. Beveridge, 1873-7; Shelby M. normal: state normal university 




CAIRO : BRIDGE OVER THE OHIO RIVER. 




204 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




STATE INDUSTRIAL EXPOSITION. 



CuUom, 1S77-83; John M. Hamilton, 18S3-85 ; 
Richard J. Oglesby, 1885-9; ^"'i Joseph W. 
Fifer, 1889-93. 

Descriptive. — Illinois is separated from Iowa 
and Missouri by the Mississippi River, on the 
west ; from Kentucky, by the Ohio River, on the 
south and southeast ; from Indiana by the Wa- 
bash and a north and south artificial boundary, 
on the east ; and from Wisconsin by a straight 
line of 140 miles on the north. Illinois is a vast grassy plain, broken by many streams into 
small prairies, and imperceptibly sloping away toward the Mississippi. It has inexhaustible 
depths of heavy black vegetable loam, easily tilled and amazingly fertile, and free from 
stones, sand or gravel. The upland prairies are underlaid with deep drift deposits, over 
which lies three feet of vegetable and animal mould. The river bottoms form wide belts 
of alluvial soil. No territory of equal size in the world shows such a uniform productive- 
ness of soil. With an area exceeding that of New York, or of England and Wales com- 
bined, it has less than a square league of sterile land. Out of its 102 counties 74 have pro- 
duced yearly above 1,000,000 bushels of wheat and corn each ; and 24 more have produced 
above 500,000 each. The distribution of live-stock is equally general. The soil is so rich 
that deep ploughing and fertilizing are not needed, and the crflps are changed only when 
the prices of other grains than those cultivated rise. The Ameri- 
can Bottom follows the Mississippi from Alton to Kaskaskia, 90 
miles long, with a width of two leagues. The Grand Prairie extends 
for 200 miles between the waters flowing to the Mississippi and those 
flowing to the Wabash, broken here and there by picturesque fringes 
and points of woodland. There are hundreds of other fertile plains, 
like the Bonpas, Looking-Glass, Bellevue, Burnt, Hancock, Long, 
Round, Ridge, and Lost Prairies. Their nutritious wild grasses were 
in ancient days the pasturage of myriads of buffalo. In marked 
contrast with the prairies are the bold bluffs and cliffs along the 
rivers, like Fountain Bluff, on the Mississippi ; the legend-haunted 
Starved Rock, Lover's Leap, and Buffalo Rock, on the Illinois ; and the heights over the 
weird Cave in the Rock, on the Ohio, a castellated pile of ledges, once the lair of river-pirates. 
The highest points in Illinois occur where the Wisconsin plateau enters the State, and 
ends in bluffs and hills 800 feet above the sea, and from 200 to 300 feet above the prairies. 
The inland ri^iprs, the Illinois, Sangamon, Rock and others, are bordered by rounded grassy 
bluffs, overlooking vast expanses of farm-lands, rich in grain. Here and there amid the 
prairies similar island-like mounds are uplifted from golden fields of wheat and green ex- 
panses of corn, crowned with dark groves. In the south rises the long clay ridge of Egypt, 
rich in northern fruits and vegetables. This low plateau runs from Grand Tower, on the 
Mississippi, to Shawneetown, on the Ohio, and is succeeded by a broken country, extend- 
ing to the confluence of the great rivers, where Cairo hides behind her levees. 

Most of the 288 streams flow toward the Mississippi, 
with available water-powers on their upper courses, fol- 
lowed by sluggish levels, with greatly fluctuating waters. 
The noble Mississippi forms the western boundary for 700 
miles, and is traversed by an unceasing procession of steam- 
boats. The Ohio and Wabash, on the south and south- 
east, are also navigated by large commercial fleets. The 
Des-Plaines (150 miles) and Kankakee (230 miles) unite 
■ :-ij«%,ttTS ^^ ■■-.'■■ 45 miles southwest of Chicago, and form the Illinois River, 
EVANSTON ; GARRETT INSTITUTE. running southwcst 500 miles, and reaching the Mississippi 




QUINCY : CITY HALL. 




THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



205 




CHICAGO : CALUMET CLUB. 



20 miles above the Missouri. It is navigable 213 miles, to La 
Salle, through a rich level country ; and receives the waters of the 
Fox, Sangamon, and Vermillion. Rock River flows for 300 miles 
through open and undulating prairies. The Kaskaskia River has 
been navigated by steamboats up to Carlisle. The pleasant lake- 
country of Wisconsin extends into northeastern Illinois, whose Lake 
County is dotted with pretty sheets of clear water. The favorite of 
these is Fox Lake, about 50 miles from Chicago, and the chief of a 
series of forty shining lochs, famous for fish and wild-fowl, and sur- 
rounded by grassy knolls and wooded slopes. Scattered through this region are summer- 
hotels and club-houses, and on the lakes float many yachts and small steamers. 

Although a prairie State, Illinois is endowed with large areas of woodlands, amounting 
to seven per cent, in the 40 northern and Grand-Prairie counties, 15 in the 21 Illinois- 
Valley counties, and about 25 per cent, in the remaining country. There are a hundred 
species of native forest-trees, oak, ash, maple, and others, with cypress, sycamore, red-bud, 
and sweet gum in the south. The black walnut, poplar, and other native woods are used 
in immense quantities by furniture factories. The destruction of the native forests has been 
in part repaired by systematic tree-planting. The 
buffalo, elk and deer have vanished, and only a few lone 
wolves and foxes lurk in the remote forests. The wild 
pigeons still visit the forests by thousands. Of late years 
fish have been propagated in the depopulated streams, 
and guarded by stringent laws, and great numbers of 
wall-eyed pike, black and white bass, croppie, German 
carp, white and ringed perch, catfish, sunfish, buffalo, 
{lickerel and pike are now caught by rural anglers. 

The Climate is pleasant and healthy, and perpetual 
breezes blow over the prairies, modifying the summer- 
heats, while Lake Michigan makes the neighboring region warmer in winter and cooler in 
summer. The diversity of the climate depends largely on the extent of the State north 
and south, one end being in the latitude of Boston, the other in that of Fort Monroe. The 
seasons come with great regularity, favoring agriculture, and the rainfall is abundant and 
seasonable, averaging 36 inches in the north and 42 in the south. The fluctuations in tem- 
perature are often great and sudden, but the vital statistics show that the climate is re- 
markably healthy, while the crop reports bear witness to its high fitness for agricultural 
development and the growth of great and valuable supplies of breadstuffs. 

The Farm-Products of Illinois have reached $270,000,000 in a single year (grain, 
$145,000,000; live-stock, $50,000,000; dairy articles, $27,- 
000,000; hay and potatoes, $26,000,000). The farm-property 
is valued at above $1,000,000,000. The average price of im- 
proved land is $33 an acre. New methods of scientific farm- 
ing, the use of modern machinery, the extension of careful 
underdraining, and the intelligence of thousands of skilled 
farmers are developing valuable agricultural properties. 

Illinois lies within the great American corn-belt, and holds 
the first rank among the States as a producer of corn. It has 
reached 325,000,000 bushels, and in the ten years, 1874-83, it 
averaged 227,000,000 bushels, with a yearly value of nearly 
$70,000,000 (30 bushels an acre, at 31 cents). The corn 
country lies north of the wheat belt, which begins south of 
Springfield, and extends southeast to the Wabash. Between 1870 
and 1S83 the wheat-crop averaged 30,000,000 Inishels. Since 




CHICAGO ; STANDARD CLUB. 




CHICAGO ; UNION LEAGUE. 



2o6 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




KANKAKEE : EASTERN HOSPITAL FOR THE INSANE. 



iSSo the market price for wheat has lieen 

so low that many farmers raised it at a 

loss, and have now abandoned the crop. 

The products of oats has exceeded loo, - 

000,000 bushels in a year. Rye, barley, 

buckwheat, potatoes and hay are raiscil 

in enormous quantities. Among the other 

yearly products of this great garden of 

the West are 500,000 pounds of grass seed, 1,500,000 pounds of flaxseed, 11,000,000 pounds 

of broom-corn, 1,300,000 gallons of sorghum syrup, $3, 500,000 worth of eggs and poultry, 

800,000 pounds of honey, and 100,000 pounds of beeswax. The Prairie State abounds in 

rich fruits, and has 300,000 acres of orchards and vineyards. Besides the famous products 

of the Alton peach-country, and the car-loads of strawberries sent from Cobden and Cen- 

tralia, the apples of Illinois have reached 600,000 bushels in a year, and raspberries and 

blackberries, cherries and plums grow in vast quantities. Over 3,000,000 pounds of grapes 

and 300,000 gallons of wine have come from the vineyards in a single year. 

Some part of the superabundant grain and the immense product of hay in the northern 
counties is devoted to the fattening of great flocks and herds. Illinois stands first among 
the States in horses, of which it possesses more than 1,000,000, -valued 
at $75,000,000, and including many thoroughbreds, and Norman and 
Clydesdale draught-horses. The cattle number 2,500,000, valued at over 
$50,000,000. Of these, 700,000 are milch-cows, including great numbers 
of Jerseys and Holsteins. Although 100,000,000 gallons of milk are furn- 
ished to the cities yearly, enough remains to make 25,000,000 pounds 
"5?%-. °f butter and 7,000,000 pounds of cheese. The State has over 
2,000,000 hogs. The hog-cholera has carried off nearly 500,000 
head in a single year, but still the business advances, the herds 
including thousands of Berkshires, Poland-Chinas, and Chester 
Whites. At one time Illinois had 2,000,000 sheep, but the 
ravages of dogs and the rise of shepherding farther west have 
caused the flocks to fall off to 600,000. The wool-clip has 
reached 6,000,000 pounds in a year. 
The Mineral Product is of large and increasing value. The coal-fields underlie three 
fourths of Illinois, producing excellent bituminous, block and cannel coal, from six irregu- 
lar workable beds. There are 1,100 mines, in 45 counties, employing 24,000 miners, and 
producing 12,000,000 tons a year. Most of these are in Sangamon, Macoupin and La-Salle 
Counties, and in the Belleville district, where the seam is six feet thick. It is obtained 
with great ease, being near the surface ; and its wide distribution, with ready transporta- 
tion over the network of prairie railroads and along the contiguous rivers, makes it of high 
economic value in this region of many factories. Much of it is pure enough to use without 
coking, for smeltmg iron-ores, in the Iron-Mountain district of Missouri and the mineral 
country of Michigan. Some iron-ores are found and worked ; and in the north lie exten- 
sive beds of peat. Copper occurs along the 
Pecatonica, in small quantities. 

The Galena lead-mines have been in operation 
for eighty years, and scar the rough and deso- 
late hill-country for leagues. This industry cul- " "^^JWS^iJI^^'' k 
minated in 1845, when 20,000 tons were ship- 
ped. The competition of the lead-mines of the 
Rocky Mountains has reduced the output. Zinc 
is found with the lead, in paying quantities, 
with furnaces at Peru and La Salle. There are chicaoo li ■.col n pariv 




A « 1 11.1 ,iLii« 



quincy: 
sailors' and soldiers' 




THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



207 




salt-wells in the south, yielding twelve ounces of salt to each gallon of water. The Niagara 
limestone of Lemont and Joliet is a fine-grained, light-drab stone, composed of the rounded 
grains of shells. It is easily worked, and the product of the quarries goes to all the in- 
terior States. There are 
40 limestone quarries, em- 
ploying 2,200 men. The 
sandstones of the upper 
Illinois valley are used 
in glass-works. Varie- 
gated marble is produced ; 
and potter's-clay and min- 
eral-paint abound in the elgin : northern hospital for the insane. 
south. The sulphur and iron springs of Jefferson County have a local repute ; and there 
are medicinal waters near Ottawa and Peru. 

Government. — The governor and several executive officers are elected every four years. 
The State includes 51 districts, each of which sends a senator and three representatives to 
the General Assemlily. The Supreme Court has seven justices, and there are appellate, 
circuit, and county courts. The Constitution of 1870 replaced that of 1848, and is a State 
paper of remarkable perspicuity and wisdom. 

The population in 1850 included 26,000 New-Englanders, 112,000 from the Middle 
States, 112,300 from the South, 107,000 from other Western States, 52,000 from Great 

Britain and Ireland, 39,000 from Germany, 
and 344,000 natives of Illinois. In 1880 Illinois 
liad 60,000 New-Englanders, 224,000 from 
the Middle States, 150,000 Southerners, and 
1,700,000 natives. In all this great inland 
empire, virtue, mercy and peace dwell, and 
the blessings of religion and education are dif- 
fused. Industry is stimulated by ownership, 
to a larger extent than in other communities ; 
and the people live in great comfort and con- 
one 
sixth in manufacturing, and nearly one sixth in trade and transportation. 

Charities and Corrections are represented by thirteen State institutions. The Peni- 
tentiary at Joliet has 1,340 prisoners; and the Penitentiary at Chester has 670. The 
Northern, Southern, Eastern and Central Hospitals for the Insane, at Elgin (520 inmates), 
Anna (630), Kankakee (1,600), and Jacksonville (900), occupy buildings and grounds that 
have cost above !f!5, 000,000. The Kankakee Asylum is one of the largest establishments 
on the detached-ward or village system. The Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, founded 
at Jacksonville in 1839, has 530 pupils. A similar Institution for the Blind, near the same 
city, has 150 students. The Asylum for Feeble-Minded Children, at Lincoln, has 370 
inmates, with industrial training, and a farm of 400 acres. 

The Illinois National Guard is limited by ^ ,„, 

lawto4,oooofficersand enlisted men, organ- 
ized into two brigades. The First Brigade 
(headquarters at Chicago) comprises the 
First and Second Infantry, at Chicago ; 
the Third Infantry, with headquarters at 
Rock ford ; the Fourth Infantry, with head- 
quarters at Joliet ; and Battery D, at 
Chicago. The Second Brigade, with head- 
quarters at Springfield, contains the Fifth Jacksonville : the state blind asTlum, 




LINCOLN: STATE ASYLUM FOR FEEBLE-MINDED CHILDREN 

tent. Of the people of Illinois nearly two fifths are at school, one fourth in farmin. 




2o8 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 





Mi 

w 

EVANSTON : NORTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY. 



Infantry, with headquarters at Springfield ; the Sixth 
Infantry (Moline); the Eighth Infantry (Clreenup); 
and Battery A, at Danville. The infantry is equipped 
with the same arms as the United-States Army, and 
the uniform is identical with that worn in the same 
service. Camp Lincoln, near Springfield, is the 
State Camp of Instruction ; and the troops are often 
stationed there for tours of military duty. Camp Lin- 
coln is one mile long, and has one of the best rifle- 
ranges in the country. While the guard is in camp especial attention is given to instruc- 
tion in rifle-firing, skirmish drill and guard duties. The batteries are equipped with four 
cannon each, and Gatling guns. The State troops have frequently rendered valuable 
service, in support of the civil authorities, in times of riots and strikes. 

The first post of the Grand Army of the Republic was mustered in, April 6, 1866, at 
Decatur, by Major B. F. Stephenson, and numbered twelve comrades. Now that this great 
military fraternity includes 7,000 posts and 400,000 comrades, the silver anniversary of the 
order (1891) is to be commemorated by the dedication, at Decatur, of a National Memorial 
Hall, as a storehouse of records and mementoes and curiosities, a temple of patriotism and 
a school of loyalty. The Soldiers' and Sailors' Home has 900 inmates, in pretty cottages, 
where squads of 50 dwell and have their meals furnished, the entire body uniting only 

at church. The headquarters, cottages, hospital, 
kitchen and dairy occupy spacious ornamental 
grounds, near Quincy. The Soldiers' Orphans' 
Home, at Normal, has 350 inmates. 

National Institutions. — The Rock-Island 
Arsenal is the most completely appointed of Ameri- 
can arsenals, having also an armory, powder-works, 
and foundry. Here Gen. Rodman perfected his 
great inventions of cooling cannon-castings from 
' ., ;. the inside, and prism or perforated-cake powder 

URBANA : uNivERbiTv OF ILLINOIS- f^j. |^g^^,y gyj^g_ jj^e bulldiugs arc of stone, and in- 

clude the soldiers' barracks, rolling and forging mills, magazines, and great shops for making 
ordnance stores. When in full operation, the Arsenal can arm, equip and supply 750,000 
troops. It is traversed by railways, and connected with Moline, Rock Island and Daven- 
port by bridges across the Mississippi. Rock Island covers 970 acres. It was acquired by 
Gen. Harrison from the Sac and Fox Indians, by a treaty made at St. Louis, in 1804; and 
in 1816 the Eighth United-States Infantry erected Fort Armstrong, which was garrisoned 
for 20 years. In 1863 Congress established here the chief Arsenal for the Mississippi Val- 
ley, which Gen. T. J. Rodman commanded from 1865 to 1871. 

In 1888 the Government began the construction of Fort Sheridan, a ten-company fort, 
at Highwood, north of Chicago. The National Cemetery, at Mound City, has the graves 
of 5,226 soldiers of the war for the Union. 

Education is served by permanent productive school-funds exceeding $10,000,000, 
drawn from Government land-grants, and the surplus revenue distributed in 
1837. The receipts for schools exceed $11,- 
000,000 yearly. The public-school and 
State educational property is valued at 
!|27, 000,000. Illinois has 1,200,000 per- 
sons of school age, of whom 760,000 are f 
enrolled in the public schools, with an ' 
average daily attendance of 518,043. There ' 
are 12,000 school-districts, with 24,000 Chicago : western theological seminary. 





THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



209 




ROCKFORD ROCKFORD SEMINARY 



teachers, and 160,000 books in the libraries. In 
private schools 100,000 students are enrolled. The 
Illinois State Normal University, founded at Nor- 
mal, near Bloomington, in 1857, has 16 instructors 
and 720 students. The Southern Normal Univer- 
sity, at Carbondale, has 16 instructors and 450 
pupils, mostly from the southern counties. The 
Cook-County Normal School is at Normal Park ; 
and there is a Manual Training School at Chicago, 
with 220 students. 

Illinois has 24 colleges and universities, with 270 instructors and 2,000 students, besides 
2,200 in their preparatory departments. The University of Illinois, opened at Urbana in 
1S6S, has 35 instructors and 350 students (50 women), besides 125 preparatory and special 
pupils. It includes colleges of agriculture ; engineering (mechanical, civil and mining, and 
architecture) ; natural science ; and ancient and modern languages ; and schools of military 
science, and of art and design. The University has a beautiful location on 610 acres of 
high rolling prairie. It received the Congressional land-grant of 480,000 acres, in 1862, 
besides liberal State appropriations. This institution was the outgrowth of a movement for 
the higher education of the industrial classes, and has one honorary scholarship for each 
county, besides farmers' and builders' short courses. It makes prominent instruction in 
branches of learning relating to agriculture and the mechanic arts. 

Northwestern University, an institution of large and growing endowment, organized by 
the Methodists in 1855, is situated at Evanston, twelve miles from Chicago. The College of 
Liberal Arts has 250 students ; the Conservatory of Music, 190; the School of Art, 20; the 
Preparatory School, 600. Of the professional schools, in Chicago, the College of Medicine 
has 210 students; Law, 140; Pharmacy, 200; and Dental and Oral Surgery, 25. Univer- 
sity Hall is a handsome stone building, containing recitation-rooms, chapel, museum, and 
library (25,000 volumes). The Hall of Science provides laboratories andj lecture-rooms, 
admirably constructed and equipped. The new Dearborn Observatory, lately completed, 
according to the best plans, contains an equatorial refracting telescope of great power, 
hese buildings are situated in a beautiful campus, shaded 
^ native oaks, directly on the shore of Lake Michigan. The 
'oman's College, in separate grounds, and the College Cot- 
tage, are homes for women students. 
The Garrett Biblical Institute, founded 
in 1856 as a theological school, has 170 
students. Its buildings, the elegant 
Memorial Hall, and Heck Hall, are in 
the University grounds, but the institu- 
tion is under separate organization. Also 
in Evanston, and aftiliated with the In- 
stitute, are the Norwegian-Danish, and 
the Swedish theological schools. 

The new Chicago University was en- 
dowed by J. D. Rockefeller, in 1889, 
with $600,000, and in 1890 with !§< 1,000, - 
000 more, to which Marshall Field added 
a gift of land. This institution hopes 
to rival the ancient universities of the 
East, in equipment and learning. 

Shurtleff College, at Upper Alton, 
UPPER ALTON: SHURTLEFF COLLEGE. was foundcd in 1832, as a seminary, 




A'/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SPRINGFIELD : 
LINCOLN MONUMENT AND TOMB. 



largely to educate Baptist clergymen. It is co-educational, with theo- 
logical and scientific schools. It was named for its chief benefactor, Dr. 
N. B. ShurtlefT, of Boston. Illinois College, founded by Presbyterians in 
1830, occupies a pleasant ridge overlooking Jacksonville. Knox College, 
founded at Galesburg in 1841, has 174 students. Wheaton College 
dates from 1855. The Illinois Wesleyan University is a Methodist 
institution, founded at Bloomington in 1850, and with 196 students. 
Lombard University, at Galesburg, pertains to the Universa- 
lists. Lake-Forest University is a successful Presbyterian school, 
with 100 students. Among the Methodist schools are Red- 
ding College, at Abingdon, with 78 students ; Chaddock Col- 
lege, at Quincy ; and the Cierman-English College, at Galena. 
The chief Catholic colleges are St. Ignatius (Jesuit), at Chicago ; 
St. Francis Solanus (Franciscan), at Quincy ; St. Viateur's, at Bourbonnais Grove ; and 
St. Joseph's (Franciscan), at Teutopolis. These have nearly 500 collegiate students. The 
chief higher schools for women are at Jacksonville, opened in 1830; Rockford, 1S49 ; 
Mount Carroll, 1853; Knoxville, 1868; and Lake Forest, 1869. 

The Union Baptist Theological Seminary at Morgan Park, twelve miles south of Chicago, 
has 133 students. There are 20 in its Dano-Norwegian, and 19 in its Swedish department. 
The library contains 20,000 volumes. The McCormick Theological Seminary, opened in 
1859 at Chicago, has eleven instructors, and lOO Presbyterian divinity students. The 
Chicago Theological Seminary (Congrcgationalist), opened in 1858, has several good build- 
ings facing Union Park, with nine instructors, 65 students and 
350 graduates. Augustana College and Theological Seminary 
occupies a beautiful site near Rock Island, and is controlled by 
the Swedish Lutheran Augustana Synod of the United States. 
Wartburg Seminary at Mendota is also Lutheran. Eureka Col- 
lege's Bible department has three teachers and 30 students. The 
Union Biblical Institution of the Evangelical Association is at 
Naperville. Methodist theological schools are conducted at the German-English College, 
at Galena, and McKendree College ; and Wheaton Theological Seminary was founded in 
1 88 1, by the Methodist Protestants. Lombard University, has a small Universalist theo- 
logical school. The divinity schools of Illinois are among the most important in America. 
The Bible Institute for missions has several buildings at Chicago, and 320 men and 
women students. The Bible is the only text-book, in its practical application to soul- 
saving and the Christian life ; and the students are brought into face-to-face contact with 
the masses, in house-visiting and mission work. There is also a department for musical 
training, as an adjunct to religious work. Dwight L. Moody, 
the evangelist, is the head of this unique institution. 

Libraries. — The Chicago Public Library has grown since 
1S74 to 150,000 volumes. The great Newberry Library, en- 
dowed with $2,500,000, is to occupy the Ogden Block, at 
Chicago. It already has above 40,000 volumes, in American 
local history, biography, astronomy, music and sociology, and 
is under the care of Wm. F. Poole. This library is intended 
solely for reference. The Crerar Library, endowed by John l^ 
Crerar with $2,225,000, will be in the South Division of Chicago, 
if his will is not broken by the contestants. 

Art. — The Art Institute of Chicago has large collections 
and loan collections of paintings and art-objects, and a flourish- 
ing school of art. Among the artistic memorials of Illinois are 
St. Gaudens's noble statue of Lincoln, Count Lelaing's statue 




EVANSTON : 
DEARBORN OBSERVATORY. 




CHICAGO ; ZION TEMPLE. 



THE STATE OE ILLE\'OIS. 




HE CHICAGO TRIBUNE. 



of La Salle, the Drexel monument, and the tall column crowned with the statue of Douglas, 
all at Chicago, ; the statue of Grant, at Cialena ; and the great monument over the remains 
of Abraham Lincoln, at Springfield. The Rebisso equestrian statue of Gen. Grant is being 
prepared for Lincoln Park, Chicago ; and Partridge's statue of Shakespeare will be placed 
in the same public ground. Other monumental works adorn several Illinois cities. 

Ne'wspapers began here with the Illinois Sitn, published 
at Kaskaskia, about 1S14, and followed by the Illinois Eini- 
gnuit, at Shawneetown, in 1818, and The Spectator, at Ed- 
wardsville, in 1819. The Chicago Trilnitie, founded in 1847, 
has risen to a commanding position among American news- 
papers. In 1853 Joseph Medill bought a large interest in the 
paper ; and four years later it absorbed the Democratic Press, 
whose publishers, Wm. Bross and J. L. Scripps, entered the 
Tribune company, together with Alfred Cowles, Dr. C. L. 
Ray, and Horace White (now of the New- York Evening 
Tost). The "fire-proof" 7>77'////d' building was burned in the 
great fire of 187 1 ; and a year later the present structure rose 
on the same site, at its time one of the best newspaper build- 
ings in this country. A few years prior and subsequent to 
the fire, Horace White had editorial control, and steered the 
Tribune through the Greeley campaign (Mr. Medill having retired, and being Mayor dur- 
ing a part of the time), but with such results, that in 1874 he relinquished the control into 
the hands of Mr. Medill, where it has since remained. Under his judicious management, 
aided by a large and competent corps of employees, it has risen to its present commanding 
position, not only as a news-gatherer and political organ, but as one of the largest adver- 
tising mediums in the United States. It has always been a judicious and conservative 
champion of the Republican party ; has opposed the follies of fiatism, prohibition and Tam- 
many rule in cities ; secured the passage of the admirable Illinois high-license law ; and 
strenuously opposed ultra tariff taxation. 

The German-Americans of the Northwest have a noble representative newspaper in the 
Illinois Staats-Zeitung, which was founded in 1847, ^7 Robert Hoeffger, who alone solicited 
all the advertisements and subscriptions, set the type, ran 
the press, and then went out and distributed the edition of 
200 copies to the subscribers. In 1 851 the daily edition 
began, with 70 subscribers. The combined circulation of 
all the editions is now 97,000 copies; and the Staats-Zei- 
tung Building, owned and occupied by the paper, at 
Chicago, cost, with its equipment, over $300,000. The 
Illinois Staats-Zeitung was the first German paper to dis- 
cover Republican principles in the Buffalo Platform of 
1848; and afterwards it antagonized the Nebraska Bill, 
and led the Germans into the Republican party, fighting 
hard for Fremont, and then for Lincoln. Latterly it has 
been a power also in municipal, county and State politics. 
There is but one German-American paper with greater 
wealth and circulation, and none surpasses it in ability, 
influence and popularity with myriads of German readers all over the United States. 

Many millions of Americans get their knowledge of events of the day from "patent 
insides," or ready-printed sheets furnished to country newspapers. This plan of auxiliary 
sheets was first developed, in America, by Ansel N. Kellogg, publisher of the Baraboo 
(Wis.) Republic, in 1S61, when his printers had gone to the war, and left him under the 
necessity of having his paper printed at the Madison yournal ofhce. Four years later he 




CHICAGO : ILLINOIS STAATa-ZEITUNG. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE IN/TFJ) STATES. 




NEWSPAPER CO. 



went to Chicago, and founded the business of supplying "patent 
insides " for rural papers, with the freshest news and the best 
selected and most interesting miscellany. He began with eight 
papers, and the company now supplies over 2,000, and issues 
more than 100 different editions weekly, edited with conspicuous 
ability, by a large force of experienced journalists. The A. N. 
Kellogg Newspaper Company has eight offices for supplying its 
patrons : Chicago, with 400 newspapers ; St. Louis, with 400 ; 
Cleveland, 200 ; Kansas City, 267 ; Cincinnati, 230 ; Memphis, 
200; St. Paul, 1 50; and Wichita, 100. Out of this enterprise 
has grown an immense advertising business, in which reputable 
advertising of the largest and shrewdest American houses is dis- 
played on the auxiliary sheets of these groups of country and 
shire-town weeklies, with amazingly profitable results. 
Chief Cities. — Chicago is a typical Western and American city, the largest west of 
the Alleghany Mountains, and the second in size in the New World. About the year 1850 
this outgrowth of an Indian trading-post and a frontier garrison began to challenge atten- 
tion, and in the ensuing decade its population rose from 30,000 to 112,172. The new 
metropolis commanded the unrivalled inland navigation of the great lakes, and her complex 
systems of railways reached out into all parts of the rising West. The advanced position 
thus early seized has been held by the wide-awake citizens. Checaqua, the Indian name of 
this locality, is said by some to mean "wild onion," by others to mean "strong." Possibly 
either is correct. The first settler was a negro, Jean Baptiste Point au Sable, in 1 790. 
Three years later he departed, and Le Mai, a Frenchman, came, selling out, in turn, to 
John Kinzie, of the American Fur Co., the first permanent settler. October 9 and 10, 
1871, Chicago was nearly destroyed by a great fire, which consumed $200,000,000 worth 
of property, and left 100,000 people homeless. The Chicago River is a bayou running 
westward from Lake Michigan for five eighths of a mile, and then forking into the North 
and South Branches, nearly parallel with the lake. The South Side, between the river, the 
South Branch and the lake, contains the wholesale business, banks, exchanges, hotels and 



^-^^'^^^^' 








t 








SaL 



CHICAGO : THE UNION STOCK-YARDS. 



THE S TA TE OE ILIJXOIS. 



213 




PEORIA ; COURT-HOUSE. 



chief public buildings, with a fine residence-quarter beyond. There is also a pleasant region 
of homes on the Ntirth Side. The site of Chicago was a fiat swamp along a bayou, and in 
order to secure proper drainage the city was raised ten or twelve feet, at enormous cost. 
To avoid the a discharge of the sewage into the lake, the city artificially reversed the 
course of the M Chicago River, so that it now empties into the Illinois River. The 
grain-trade employs thirty immense grain-elevators and store- 
houses, handling 140,000,000 bushels yearly. Since 1870 over 
2,500,000,000 bushels have been received here. 

The Union Stock-Yards are the largest in the world. 
They were opened in 1865, and cost $3,000,000. They 
cover 350 acres (three fifths roofed over) with eight miles of 
streets ; and receive over 8,000,000 head of live-stock yearly. 
More than $200,000,000 worth of live-stock is sold here 
yearly. Near by are enormous meat-packing houses, with 
modern appliances of wonderful ingenuity. The meats ship- 
ped from Chicago yearly exceed $100,000,000 in value, l>eing 
almost one third of the entire export. Goods are imported in bond from Europe to Chicago 
to the amount of $4,000,000 worth yearly. The exports are vastly greater, and consist 
mainly of wheat and meat. 

Chicago has a number of grand public buildings. The Court House and City Hall 
is a noble pile of French Renaissance architecture, of Athens marble and Indiana granite, 
with statuary, erected at a cost of $4,000,000. The Post-Oftice and 
Custom House is in the Venetian Romanesque style, with rich interior 
decorations of marble. It cost $6,000,000. 

The water supply of Chicago is taken from a crib two miles out in 
Lake Michigan, whence it passes through a submarine tunnel to the 
shore, and is pumped into a standpipe 175 feet high. The 
works cost $3,000,000, and furnish 150, 000, 000 gallons daily, 
yielding a considerable revenue to the city above expenses. 
A new ten-foot tunnel leads four miles out, to a crib now 
under construction. One of the mechanical wonders of 
Chicago is the great gas-holder, built by R. D. Wood & 
Co. of Philadelphia for the Chicago Gas-Light & Coke Co., 
182 feet in diameter and 127I feet high, with a capacity of 
3,100,000 cubic feet. It has three telescopic lifts. 

Chicago manufactures are of great extent' and variety, $7,000,000 being invested in 
making agricultural implements, with an annual product of $16,000,000; and $3,000,000 
in carriage-making, with a product of $5,000,000. The yearly' product of furniture is 
$6,500,000; of clothing, $8,000,000; of leather, $6,500,000; of iron and steel, $20,000,000; 
of planed lumber, $15,500,000; of printing, $8,000,000; of malt liquors, $6,500,000; 
of distilled liquors, $8,500,000 ; of soap, $3,000,000 ; of tobacco and cigars, $5,000,000 ; of 
cut stone, $5,000,000; of chemicals, $3,000,000; besides large quantities of flour and its 
products, sheet metal, brass, hats and furs, and confectionery. 

Chicago is not merely a large region covered with houses 
and factories. It has a noble (though recent) development in 
culture and letters, with libraries of the first magnitude, educa- 
tional institutions of far-reaching importance, and rich musical 
and artistic developments. The parks have cost $10,000,000, 
and almost surround the city with a belt of verdure, Lincoln 
Park (310 acres) on the north being united to Humboldt (194 
acres), Garfield (185 acres) and Douglas Parks (171 acres) on 
CHICAGO; FIRST REGIMENT ARMORY, the west, and thcsc to the great South-Side Parks (165 acres) 




CHICAGO : CHURCH OF THE COVENANT. 




214 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED S7\4TES. 




CHICAGO : SYNAGOGUE ANSHE MAARIV. 



by a system of noble boulevards and parkways. These broad pleasure- 
grounds are adorned with many acres of rich flowers, verdant lawns, 
lakes, bits of forests, shore drives, zoological gardens, and con- 
sei \ atories. 

IJbby Prison, in which many thousand Ihiion officers were 
confined during the Secession War, was bought at Richmond, 
in 1888, taken down, and carried to Chicago, where its 
carefully numbered beams and stones were put together 
again, and now these horrid walls enshrine a museum of 
war relics. The Central Music Hall and the German 
Opera House, the Standard Club, and the impressive 
synagogue of the Congregation Anshe Maariv, and other 
ornaments of the city were constructed by Adler & Sulli- 
van, the able architects of the Auditorium. 
The Anglo-American race is a family of born travellers, and its members are never more 
happy than when traversing vast distances, in search of variety in climate, or scenery, or 
trade. They also demand the utmost possible amount of comfort while on their wander- 
ings ; and the ingenuity of their brightest minds has been directed toward mitigating the 
arduous features of travel. The first large westward migration in America was that of the 
three Puritan churches, from Boston to Hartford, and all this godly company, even to 
women and children, walked the whole way, through the pathless woods. Somewhat 
over 200 years later, the vast migrations of Americans to Pike's Peak and California were 
largely conducted by the slowly crawling wagon-trains, requiring weary months to cross 
the Plains. But now the luxurious traveller crosses the wide continent in five or six days, 
eating delicious meals at regular hours, sleeping in a good bed at night, and throughout 
the long day watching the flying landscape through plate-glass windows, and reclining in 
a richly upholstered easy-chair. Bathing, shaving, reading, writing and eating are provided 
for in the cars of to-day. A large part of the honor for this achievement belongs to George 
M. Pullman, whose inventions and devices have been successfully applied to make travel- 
ling a pleasure instead of a pain. The sovereign excellence of his improved cars is shown 
by the fact that they are now in use on above 70,000 miles of railways, in America and 
Europe, crossing the Alps and the Carpathians as well as the Alleghanies and the Rockies, 
and traversing Great Britain in every direction. These commodious and luxurious vehicles 
are a development, pure and simple, and no one could realize how many small elements 
enter into their tout ensemble of comfort, each one carefully thought out and elaborated, and 
fitted to its place. Almost every year adds some new and desirable improvement, and the 
Pullman car of the twentieth century will be the acme of all imaginable security and 
luxury. A fundamental principle with Mr. Pullman made his work a success, and the 
same principle gives to his corporation an assured permanency — it is to supply the public 
to the highest extent that they will pay 
for, always leading the people somewhat 
beyond their demands. 

Pullman's Palace Car Company was 
founded in 1867, with a paid-up capital of 
$1,000,000. The healthy and steady in- 
crease in the business has necessitated suc- 
cessive increases in the capital stock, until 
it now amounts to $20,000,000, all paid 
in, dollar for dollar, without a thought of 
watering. These extended operations have 
been conducted on the strictest business 
principles, always paymg dividends. Jacksonville : institution for the deaf and dumb. 




THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



215 




PULLMAN : THE ARCADE AND PUBLIC SQUARE, AND THE PU 

In 1880 Mr. Pullman founded the city of Pullman, on the shore of Lake Calumet, 
twelve miles south of Chicago, having acquired 3, 500 acres of land here, on the open prairie. 
Here he transferred the greater part of the company's works, where the operatives could 
have the benefits of pure air and water, generous liberty, and deliverance from the seduc- 
tions of a great city. Over $600,000 was spent underground, on a scientific drainage and 
sewage system, before a house was erected ; and then the best landscape-gardeners, civil 
engineers, and architects laid out and built the city, with wide and parked streets, hand- 
some public buildings, parks and theatre and churches, convenient and picturesque build- 
ings, and model factories. The greater part of the town is owned by the company, and the 
workmen are tenants, but for an equal sum get far better homes than elsewhere, while the 
corporation also receives a remunerative interest on its investment. The operatives, how- 
ever, can buy their homes, and are not at all compelled to live on the Pullman Company 
property. In fact, about 2,000 do not, and many of these own their places. Pullman is fast 
becoming an ideal industrial community, unapproached to-day by any city of its size in 
America. It has a large diversity of manufactures, and its churches, schools, public build- 
ings, and homes, are of a high order. It is one of the places 
in this country to which foreign visitors are always attracted. 

One of the high culminating points of American civilization is 
shown in the wonderful Auditorium Building, in Chicago, which 
was erected in 1887-90, at a cost of $3,500,000. This enormous 
structure fronts on three of the chief streets, presenting impressive 
and commanding fa9ades of Romanesque architecture, abounding 
in strong round arches. It is as nearly fire-proof as a structure can 
be made, being built of granite and limestone, iron and steel, witli 
impenetrable walls, and nothing inflammable except the furniture. 
This greatest private building enterprise ever undertaken in 
America has been entitled "the Parthenon of modern civiliza- 
tion," as the richest type of the age of business and commercial 
activity and individual comfort. The Auditorium was conceived 
and developed by Ferdinand W. Peck, a wealthy citizen of Chicago, Chicago: pullman building. 




2l6 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



and prominent in many enterprises, who recognized the need in the city of a grand building 
for political, musical, military and other conventions and reunions, to serve the metropoli- 
tan aspirations of the Lake City, and to promote fraternity among the people of the Repub- 
lic. The architects were Adler & Sullivan, with Prof. Wm. R. Ware as adviser, and Gen. 
Wm. Sooy Smith as consulting engineer. The Auditorium Association includes several 
hundred leading citizens of Chicago, who have taken stock in this national and patriotic 
enterprise. Among the component parts of the Auditorium Building are the Business Por- 
tion, including handsome stores and 136 offices; the Tower Observatory, 270 feet high, and 
occupied by the United-States Signal Service on its 17th, i8th, and 19th stories; the Re- 
cital Hall, in cream and gold, seating 500 persons ; and the Auditorium, the largest and 
most sumptuous theatre and opera-house in the world, with the most complete and costly 



stage, and an organ of 
sweetness, and a seating 
can be enlarged to 8,000 
The Auditorium 
mighty pile, and includes 
grand dining-room and 
floor, and a banquet - 
trusses over the theatre, 
civilization finds a home 
house, which is at all 
Auditorium Tower has 
ble sights of Chicago, 




CHICAGO THE AUDTORUM 



unusual power and 
capacity of 4, loo, which 
in time of conventions. 
Hotel is a part of this 
400 guest-rooms, with a 
kitchen on the tenth 
hall built of steel, on 
Every luxury of modern 
in this imrivalled public 
points fire-proof. The 
become one of the nota- 
and few visitors to the 



city fail to go to its summit, for there can be obtained views so grand as always to be remem- 
bered. Both the architectural and decorative features of this unrivalled edifice are entirely 
original in their treatment, and mark a new era in the history of construction. It is generally 
admitted that the Auditorium proper, or the great hall, surpasses all the opera-houses of 
both Europe and this country in beauty of decoration and finish, as well as in capacity. 
This architectural pride of Ihe Great West occupies a charming site overlooking Lake 
Michigan and its commercial fleets, while close around it surge the life and activity of Chicago. 
The broad and shady streets of Springfield, "The Flower City," intersect each other on 
a pleasant prairie, in a rich farming and coal-mining country near the Sangamon River. 
Springfield has been the capital of Illinois since 1837. Two miles north, in Oak-Ridge 
Cemetery, is the great Lincoln Monument, over the remains of Abraham Lincoln. Peoria, 
beautifully situated on Peoria I^ake, has costly public buildings, several large elevators, ship- 
ping 30,000,000 bushels of corn and oats yearly, and important manufactures. Quincy is a 
beautiful city, on a bold limestone bluff above the Mississippi, founded in 1822 on the site 
of an ancient Sac town, and endowed with noble new public buildings, and large industries 
in flour-milling, meat-packing, stove and wagon making, and the construction of machinery. 
Rock Island and Moline are contiguous manufacturing cities, on the 
Mississippi, which here falls seven feet in 
three miles, affording an immense water- 
power. Cairo, on the low bottoms at the con- 
fluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, has never 
reached the commercial prominence fore- 
shadowed by its position, and is only kept 
from inundation by a four-mile circuit of 
levees. Aurora, a promising factory and 
railroad centre, was the first city in the 
world to light its streets with electricity (in 
1 881), and opened the first free public- 

5: AUDITORIUM HOTEL, -i i • .1 r^^ . rrii- 

DINING HALL. schools m the State oi Illmois, many ycars ago. 





CHICAGO: AUDITORIUM HOTEL, 
STAIRCASE. 



THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



217 







iCHlCAGO^^y 



CHICAGO: THE WESTERN SHORE OF LAKE MICHIGAN. 



KLVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




ROCK ISLAND, ON THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 



Bloomington is an educational city, with large car-works and foundries. Alton stands on 
high broken ground fronting the Mississippi, three miles above the inflowing of the Missouri, 
and has valuable factories. Galena, perched upon the steep Fevre bluffs, dates from 1826, 

and is the capital 
of the lead - min- 
ing country. Jol- 
iet, forty miles 
southwest of Chi- 
cago, was founded 
in 1834, and has 
factories and quar- 
ries, the Joliet 

branch of the Illinois Steel Co., and the State Penitentiary. East St. Louis, practically a 
part of St. Louis (Mo.), is a growing city, with many industries. 

Railways in Illinois have over 13,000 miles of track, built at a cost of $330,000,000, 
and carrying yearly 32,»oo,ooo passengers, and 54,000,000 tons of freight. The earnings 
from freight are four times those from passengers. Their taxes in Illinois amount to 
nearly $3,000,000. There are but three counties (Pope, Hardin and Calhoun) that are not 
reached by railways. The pioneer Illinois line (in what was until lately the Wabash, 
St. -Louis & Pacific system) was opened from Springfield to Meredosia in 1838, but mules 
soon supplanted the locomotives, and the line fell into disuse. When the Galena & Chicago 
Union Railroad was begun, in 1847, its projectors got an 
authorization to build a turnpike instead, in case of need. 
By the end of 1848, the tracks had only reached Harlem, ten 
miles out, and a year later they got to Elgin. Congress 
granted to Illinois, in 1850, alternate sections of land along 
the routes from Galena and from Chicago to Cairo, to aid in 
building a railway; and the State transferred this domain 
to the Illinois Central Railroad Co., which rapidly built 
the line. It contracted to pay the State yearly seven per 
cent, of its gross earnings, for lands, etc., and Illinois has received over $10,000,000 from 
this source. The Illinois Central runs north from Cairo to near Centralia, whence one of 
its lines traverses the middle of the State north by Decatur and Bloomington to Mendota, 
and thence northwest to Galena and East Dubuque ; and another line passes more to the 
eastward to Chicago. There are 500 miles of leased branch roads, making the total mileage 
1,479. The company has 8,500 employees, receiving $5,000,000 a year. 

The history of the Chicago & Northwestern Railway system furnishes a striking illus- 
tration of the rapid growth of the railway interests of the United States. From the Galena 

& Chicago Union Rail- 
way, consisting of 42 miles 
in 184S, has grown one of 
the most extensive and 
prosperous systems in the 
world. From the date 
mentioned, year by year 
its lines have been ex- 
tended, until at the pres- 
ent time the Chicago 
& Northwestern Railway 
system embraces over 
7,200 miles of thoroughly 
CAIRO: THE CONFLUENCE OF THE OHIO AND MISSISSIPPI RIVERS. equipped railway. Its 




l-OriT DEARBORN. 




THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



2T9 



lines reach the great timber and mining regions of northern Michigan ; St. Taul, Minneap- 
olis and Duluth in Minnesota ; across Wisconsin, Minnesota and South Dakota to Pierre ; 
and through Illinois, Iowa and Nebraska into the famous Black Hills of Dakota and the 
oil-fields of central Wyoming. By a close traffic alliance with the Union Bacific system, 
superb vestibuled trains, composed of reclining chair-cars and palace sleeping and dining 
cars, are now run through between Chicago and Denver (Col.) and Portland (Oregon), 
traversing most of the principal cities of Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Idaho and Ore- 
gon. A palace sleeping-car is also run through between Chicago and San Francisco ; and 
l.he journey between I-ake Michigan and the Pacific Coast can now be made in the greatest 
comfort without chan.i;c of cars. The hunting and fishing regions of the Northwest are 

readily accessible by the lines of the Chicago & 
Noithwestern Railway, and the perfect train- 
service between Chicago and the beautiful 
lakes and many health-resorts of W^isconsin, 
Michigan, and Minnesota has made the 




SOUTH PARK bTAriUN ILLCtlM 



■.'.H^^^-^jl !| I \ \ I "I !! II II ,S s [III __ 



UNION STATION^ p.FTw a c. c&A, c.Bao. cwas 

CHICAGO ■ THE RAILWAY STATIONS 

Northwestern the favorite route of spoitsmen 

and tourists. With its well-ballasted load bed, 

superior equipment and excellent train serviee the Northwestern may justly clann to be a 

model railway in all that the term implies. 

The Burlington Route, Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad, is one of the largest 
and most perfect railroad systems in the world. It extends from Chicago, St. Louis and 
Peoria on the east to Denver, Cheyenne and the Black Hills on the west ; reaching between 
these terminals the Missouri-River centers of Kansas City, St. Joseph, AtchLson, Council 
Bluffs and Omaha ; and serving many important centers of trade in Illinois, Iowa and 
Nebraska, such as Quincy, Burlington, Nebraska City and Lincoln. Its lines also extend 
from St. Louis on the south to St. Paul and Minneapolis on the north ; and its main lines 
and branches, aggregating 7,000 miles, are to be found in ten Western States. They pene- 
trate in every direction the great corn-belt of Nebraska, Colorado and Kansas, and serve 
the mining and manufacturing regions, and many well-established cities and towns in that 
territory and in Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, Missouri and Wyoming. Its geographical posi- 
tion, and its relation to connecting lines, make it a leading factor in the traffic of the 



AVJVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




IICAGO : STUDEEAKtH BROS. 



m. 



ieffiii! 




Northwest, West and Southwest. The system employs 25,000 
men ; and at its centers of traffic it maintains extensive and 
commodious facilities. In 1889 the Burlington Route carried 
into Chicago 2,552,218 head of live-stock and 36,059,372 
bushels of grain ; or 235^ per cent, of the live-stock, and 22 per 
cent, of the grain carried into that city. Its train service is un- 
excelled in time and equipment, and includes all modern appli- 
ances for the comfort of patrons. The Burlington's trains leave 
the great Union Depot, at Chicago, which is also used by the 
Fort-Wayne and Pan-handle Routes, the Chicago, Milwaukee 
& St. -Paul, and the Alton lines. Two hundred trains leave 
this station daily. 

Of the eastward trunk lines from Chicago, the Michigan 
Central, with its connections, the New- York Central and the 
Boston & Albany, is pre-eminent. Its four daily fast through trains are unsurpassed, 
perfect in equipment and service, with palatial sleeping, parlor and dining cars, running 
through to Buffalo, New York and Boston, are operated with a trained care and vigilance 
that allow a high rate of speed with entire safety and comfort. The famous North Shore 
Limited, heated by steam and lighted by the Pintsch gas system, and supplied with every 

possible convenience and luxury, runs from New 
York to Chicago in twenty-five hours. This line, 
known as "The Niagara-Falls Route," from its 
being the only line running directly by and in full 
view of the great cataract (and stopping its day 
trains there five minutes for the convenience of 
its passengers), is admirably constructed, and 
laid with 80-pound steel rails. Its numerous 
branch lines traverse the great State of Michigan, 
running from Toledo, Detroit and Jackson through 
the Saginaw and Grand-River Valleys, to the 
Straits of Mackinaw and the principal cities of the State. Quick to adopt the new inven- 
tions of science and the results of experience, and to anticipate the demands of the travel- 
ling public, it keeps in line with the great railways of the world. 

One of the foremost routes from Chicago to the South is the Louisville, New-Albany & 
Chicago Railroad, which runs from the great Illinois metropolis 
across the State of Indiana to Louisville and down into Ken- 
tucky, and also to Indianapolis, connecting for Cincinnati and 
beyond. This is a favorite avenue between the tremendous 
business activities of the Northwest and the restful atmosphere 
and climate of the semi-tropical Southeast, the fragrant pine- 
forests of Georgia and the orange-groves of Florida. Tlic 
traveller lies down at eight o'clock, at Chicago, and awakens at 
7.15 in the morning, at Louisville, 323 miles away, and well 
on his way to the land of winter sunshine and repose. This is 
the famous "Monon Route" (so-named from a city where its 
divisions intersect) ; whose various connecting lines cover the 
South with their ramifications. The freight business is excep- 
tionally heavy at all times. The Louisville, New-Albany tSc 
Chicago Company underwent a radical change in the executive 
management in 18S9, and now it is energetically becoming one 
of the pre-eminent roads of this country, and has been practi- 
cally rebuilt. Within two years the line has been ballasted chicauu mjnun block 







CHICAGO : HOST-OFFICE AND CUSTOM HOUSE. 








THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 




CHICAGO : THE BOARD OF TRADE. 



with rock and provided with 70-pound steel rails and new ties and new bridges. 
The executive offices are in the Monon Block, in Chicago. The 
Dr. Wm. L. Breyfogle, and the General Manager is Wm. F. Bla( 

The Chicago, Milwaukee & St. -Paul Railway, with more than 
miles of track in Iowa, Wisconsin, the Dakotas, Minnesota, and 
souri, and 316 miles in Illinois, runs from Chicago west to the 
Mississippi and north into Wisconsin. It owns 757 locomo- 
tives and 24,000 cars. The Chicago, Rock-Island & Pacific Rail- 
way, chartered in 1847, as the Rock-Island & La-Salle Rail- 
'road, was finished to Rock Island in 1854, and to Council Bluffs 
(500 miles) in 1869. It controls over 2,000 miles of track, one 
quarter of which is in Illinois, with 2,854 employees. The 
Chicago & Alton Railroad runs southwest from Chicago to 
Bloomington, Springfield, Alton and East St. Louis, 281 miles, 
with several branches, and reaches west to Kansas City. The 
Chicago, Santa-Fe & California Railway has 349 miles in Illinois, running from Chicago 
into Iowa and Missouri, and forming the eastern section of the Santa-Fe system, which 
reaches the Gulfs of Mexico and California and the Pacific Ocean. The St. -Louis & Indian- 
apolis line has 385 miles in Illinois, running 
northeast from East St. Louis to Alton, Mat- 
toon, and Paris and beyond, and forming part 
of the " Big Four Route." The Ohio & Missis- 
sippi line runs in 428 miles from East St. Louis 
to Vincennes. The great railroads from Chicago 
to the East have but little of their mileage in 
Illinois. The Pittsburgh, Fort-Wayne & Chicago 
has 15 miles (70 of track) out of its 468 miles 
here; the Lake-Shore & Michigan Southern, 
14 out of 2, 192 ; the Baltimore & Ohio, six ; the 
Michigan Central, six; and other lines quickly pass into Indiana. Among the other im- 
portant north and south lines are the Chicago & Eastern-Illinois, 265 miles in Illinois ; 
Chicago & Ohio-River, 91 ; and Cairo, Vincennes & Chicago, 297. The Wabash Rail- 
road Company's main line runs from Toledo (Ohio) by 
Decatur and Springfield, to Bluffs, 111. (413 miles), 
with 171 miles in Illinois. There are also routes served 
by this company from Chicago to Altamont, 214 miles, 
and from Decatur to East St. Louis, no miles. The 
Mobile & Ohio, St. -Louis & Cairo, and Louisville (S. 
Nashville control important lines in southern Illinois. 
Besides its network of railways and navigable waters, 
Illinois has 75,000 miles of roads and turnpikes. 

The Illinois & Michigan Canal runs from Chicago 
96 miles to La Salle, the head of navigation on the 
Illinois River. It cost $6,600,000. In 1S76-80 Chicago 
deepened this canal, at a cost of $3,250,000, so that 
the Chicago River now flows out of Lake Michigan 
and down to the Illinois, carrying in part the sewage 
of the great city. As first planned, in 1836, it was in- 
tended for a ship-canal, and the United States granted 
the right of way, but the financial embarrassment of 
the State checked the work, and reduced its scale. At 
some future time this scheme may be realized. 




CHICAGO RIVER. 




CHICAGO : MASONIC TEMPLE. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 







CHICAGO : ART INSTITUTE. 



The Finances of Illinois are on the securest of foundations, 
and th'e State has no bonded debt. The maximum rate of taxa- 
tion is fixed by law, at a low figure, on the assessed valuation 
of property. The free outlays for local improvements, railroads 
and public buildings reached such great proportions that the 
Constitution of 1870 placed restrictions on the municipalities. 
In iSSo the counties, cities and towns owed over $52,000,000, 
one fourth of which is payable between 1890 and 1900. Most 
of the bonded debts draw interest at seven per cent., but they 
are being refunded at from four to six per cent. Municipalities 
cannot incur debts to exceed five per cent, of the value of their 
taxable property ; and they must yearly pay part of their existing debts, with all accru- 
ing interest. Illinois has 183 National banks, with a combined capital of $30,000,000; 
20 State banks ; 450 private banking-houses ; and three saving-banks. 

The First National Bank of Chicago, one of the greatest financial institutions in the 
country, was founded in 1863, with a capital of $100,000. The great fire of 18 7 1 partly 
destroyed its building, but the safes and vaults remained intact, and the bank passed safely 
through the ordeal. Its charter expired in 1882, and the surplus, or reserve, was then 
found to be $1,800,000. In the same year, the bank was newly organized, with a capital 
of $3,000,000. It has grown as steadily and remarkably as 
Chicago itself, and now has a surplus of $2,000,000, de- 
posits of $25,000,000, and gross assets of over $30,000,000. 
The mercantile and manufacturing interests of Chicago have 
been most liberally encouraged, and to this bank must 
be conceded a fair share of credit for the city's up-build- 
ing. Its vice-president, Lyman J. Gage, was at the head 
of the World's Fair Committee, and the officers and direc- 
tors include a group of Chicago's most famous men. The 
First National occupies capacious and magnificent quar- 
ters on the main floor of its own substantial bank struc- 
ture, at the corner of Monroe and Dearborn Streets. Dur- 
ing the crisis of 1873 this bank did not suspend, but met all calls with cash, and maintained 
unimpaired its previous high standing and credit. 

The Illinois Trust and Savings Bank, the leading financial institution of its class west 
of Ohio, occupies handsome offices in the Rookery Building, an architectural marvel among 
the office-buildings of Chicago. It has a capital stock of $1,000,000, with additional lia- 
bility of stockholders to the extent of $1,000,000, and a surplus of $1,000,000, making a 
total amount of over $3,000,000 pledged for the security of its depositors. The deposits 
and other assets make a total of nearly $20,000,000. 
There are four departments : The Savings Department, 
receiving deposits from $1 to $5,000; the Banking 
Department, receiving deposits subject to check, buying 
and selling foreign and domestic exchange, issuing 
letters of credit, and acting as a lawful depository of 
court and trust funds ; the Safety Deposit Depart- 
ment, with private safes and boxes kept in a great vault 
walled with chrome steel and iron, and thoroughly " 
watched and guarded ; and the Trust Department, < 
acting as administrator, executor, guardian, conserv- j' 
ator, assignee, and trustee of trust estates. John J. 
Mitchell is president. The stockholders are among the 
wealthiest and most prominent business men. 




sT NrtTIOvA- BANK. 







CHICAGO : THE ROOKERY : 
ILLINOIS TRUST AND SAVINGS BANK. 



THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



223 





The Manufactories of Illinois exceed 16,000, with $150,- 
000,000 capital, 150,000 operatives (receiving wages of $60,000,- 
000 a year), and a yearly product of $450,000,000. Manufactur- 
ing employs nearly one fifth of the people of Illinois, which 
stands first among the States in meat-packing, the lumber-trade, 
and the making of malt and distilled liquors. The State is dotted 
all over with flouring-mills, whose product exceeds in value that 
of any other local industry. Among other yearly products are 
clothing and furnishing goods, to the value of $25,000,000; 
leather, $6,000,000 ; boots and shoes, $4,000,000 ; railway bridges and cars, $13,000,000; 
furniture, $10,000,000; sashes, doors and planed lumber, $12,000,000; carriages and 
wagons, $4,000,000; publishing and printing, $6,000,000; oil, paints and white lead, 
$5,000,000; lard oil, oleomargarine and stearine, $7,000,000; window and green glass, 
soap, and many other articles. 

The Illinois Steel Company is the largest corporation of its kind in this or any other coun- 
try, and possesses practically a monopoly of steel-rail manufacturing in the West. It has an 
authorized capital of $25,000,000, and a very extensive and profitable business, covering a 
score of great 
States. This 
indu s t r y was 
founded in 
1857 by E. B. _ 
Ward, of De- "-^^ - .- - .s^- 

troit, who sold -^ia. li.ui, ^ill. 

his plant to the Chicago Rolling-Mills Co., in 1864. Five years later the iNorth-Chicago Roll- 
ing Mills Co. bought the works; and in 1889 they consolidated with the Union Steel Co., 
under the style of the Illinois Steel Co. The 
new organization bought the plant of the Joliet 
Steel Co. The various mills owned by the cor- 
poration represent a value of above $12, 000, 000 ; 
and there is be- 
yond this a work- 
ing capital of 
$6,000,000. Re- 
cently, large ex- 
penditures were 

planned, reaching far into the millions, to enlarge the works at South Chicago and Joliet, and 
to add the necessary plant for manufacturing under the basic process. The Illinois Steel 
Company makes a vast proportion of the rails and other metal goods used on the Western 
railroads, and has been a valued ally in the advance of civilization into the wilderness. It 
employs 12,000 men, with a yearly salary-list of $7,000,000; and produces each year more 
than 3,500,000 tons of ^-m Bessemer ingots, pig-iron and spiegel, rails and 

other articles of iron and :^"~^ IH steel. The company owns 4,500 acres of coal- 

— ^™»- lands, and 1,150 coke-ovens, 

67 miles of railway, 60 locomo- 
tives and 2,000 cars. The works 
include 17 blast furnaces, four 
Bessemer works, four rail-mills, 
and billet, rod and structural 
mills. The first steel rails made 
in America were rolled in 1865, 
JOLIET : ILLINOIS STEEL COMPANY'S WORKS. '^'^ '^'^ North-Chicago works. 




HICAGO : ILLINOIS STEEL COMPANY'S UNION WORKS, 




224 



A'/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



:- j'^ '^i.r 1.,^^ 




HICAGO ; JAMES S. KIRK & CO. 



On the site of the first house ever built in Chicago — at first Au Sable's and later John 

Kinzie's — stand the enormous and famous soap 
and glycerine works of James S. Kirk & Co., the 
largest house of its class on the American conti- 
nent. Kirk's soaps are among the comparatively 
small list of goods that are favorably known in 
almost all the households of the whole Union. In 
Chicago it is one of the most familiar of the great 
factories, for the immense five-story and basement 
substantial brick buildings stretch conspicuously 
along the river bank in the immediate vicinity of 
the wholesale business district. The lai^ge chimney, 
282 feet high, that gives draft to the fires in boilers, 
supplying 1,600 horse-power, looms up to attract attention from all directions. In these 
buildings there are five acres of floor surface, wherein about 700 people are given constant 
employment. There are four main departments: (i) the laundry soaps, including the 
every-where-popular brands of "American Family" and "White Russian ;" (2) the toilet 
soaps, with a list of hundreds of varieties of exquisite soaps, 
chief among which are " Shandon Bells" and "Juvenile;" (3) 
the perfumery, with its specialty of "Shandon Bells Perfume," 
and many varieties of toilet waters, concentrated essences, and 
toilet preparations ; and (4) the glycerine, where the aim has 
been to obtain a chemically pure preparation, as well as all quali- 
ties for technical uses. Taken altogether, this house, established 
in 1839 ^y James S. Kirk, and now conducted by his seven sons, 
is one of the most notable of the industries of Illinois. 

Fort Dearborn was constructed in 1803. It consisted of two 
block-houses and a parade-ground, enclosed by a strong pali- 
sade. The block at the corner of Michigan Avenue and River 
Street now bears a marble tablet, thus inscribed : This building 
occupies the site of old Fort Dearborn, which extended a little 
across Michigan Avenue and somewhat into the river as it now 
is. The fort was built in 1803-4, forming our outmost defense. 
By order of Gen. Hull it was evacuated August 15, 1812, 
after its stores and provisions had been distributed among the In- 
dians. Very soon after the Indians attacked and massacred about fifty of the troops and a 
number of citizens, including women and children, and next day burned the fort. In 1816 it 
was rebuilt, but after the Black-Hawk war it went into gradual disuse, and in May, 1837, was 
abandoned by the army, but was occupied by various government officers till 1857, when it was 

torn down, excepting a single building, which 
stood upon the site till the great fireofOct. 9, 1871. 
The McCormick Harvesting Machine Com- 
^i:iny is the outgrowth of the original invention 
of the reaping machine, by Cyrus H. McCor- 
mick, in 1831. This machine is now universally 
admitted to be one of the wonders of the age, 
and has made it possible for the United States 
to become the greatest agricultural country in 
the world. After manufacturing his machine in 
a small way in Virginia, Mr. McCormick moved 
to Cincinnati, in 1846, and in 1847 he estab- 
cHicAGo MCCORMICK HARVESTING MACHINE CO. li^hed his great business in Chicago. Since then 




CHICAGO: GERMAN OPERA HOUSE. 




THE STATE OE ILLINOIS. 



225 



the works have grown to mammoth proportions, and the McCormick Harvesting Machine 
Co. to-day leads the world in the manufacture of agricultural implements. From an output 
of 50 machines, in 1844, the business has grown to the enormous aggregate of 123,570 ma- 
chines in 1890. Besides reapers, mowers, binders and other kinds of harvesters, this concern 
furnished yearly 8,000 tons of Manila and Sisal twine to the farmers of the great North- 
west, with which to bind their grain. The works cover 37 acres of flooring, with good dock- 
age on the South Branch of the Chicago River. Upwards of 2,000 men are employed here, 
to say nothing of the vast army of agents engaged in the sale and distribution of their har- 
vesting machines throughout the world. In the harvesting-machine business the late Cyrus 
H. McCormick was the pioneer, and through his machine is now universally regarded as 
one of the notable lienefactnrs of the human race. 

The great business of the Crane Company of Chi- 
cago began in 1855, when Richard T. Crane, a young 
New-Jersey mechanic, opened a little brass foundry in 
a corner of the lumber-yard belonging to his uncle, 
Martin Ryerson. A brother, Charles S. Crane, soon 
joined Richard, and the business developed rapidly and 
secure!)', taking in steam-heating machinery in 1858, 
an iron-foundry in i860, and a 
^\rought-iron pipe-mill in 1864. 
The Crane Bros. Mfg. Company 
changed its name in 1890 to the 
Crane Company; and now, 
with a capital of .$2, 500,000, 
itives, and owns and oc- 
biick buildings especially 
business. This pioneer 
-.team and gas fittings in 
patented articles of unus- 
Elevator Company, making 








employs 1,850 oper- 

cupies several large 

constructed for its 

house manufactures the largest line of 

America, and controls the use of many 

ual ingenuity and value. The Crane 

passenger and freight elevators, is an offshoot of this corporation. 

The Link-Belt Machinery Company is typical of American ingenuity for practical uses. 
It is an outgrowth of the great business in transportation and trans-shipment which has 
been a part of the development of our Northwestern empire. It was incorporated in 1880, 
since which the capital stock has been advanced from $20,000 to $350,000. The works 
cover six acres, at Chicago, and here great varieties of machinery and contrivances are de- 
signed and constructed for the handling of any material in bulk or package, and for the trans- 
mission of power. This company is closely allied to the Link-Belt Engineering Company 
of Philadelphia, which supplies New York and the East with machinery of a similar char- 
acter. The Ewart link-belting, of links of re- 
fined malleable iron, is made in 31 regular 
sizes, and largely used instead of leather-belt- 
ing (being less wasteful of power), in flour- 
mills and grain-elevators, breweries and malt- 
houses, tanneries and sugar-refineries. The 
company also makes elevators, conveyors, gear- 
ing, and countless other ingenious devices. 

The Adams & Westlake Company is an ab- 
sorption of the old firm of Dane, Westlake & 
Covert, and the manufacturing interests of 
Crerar, Adams & Co., who were at Chicago the pioneer merchants in railway supplies in 
the West. John Crerar, the senior member of the firm, died in 1889, full of honors and of 




CHICAGO : LINK-BELT MACHINERY 



226 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 










fes-^^:^^"!'' !p5 Stir-"- ^:^ . 



^m^^SSMM 



wealth, leaving a fortune of $5,000,000 to relatives 
and charities, and half of it to found a library. 
There were many articles, such as lamps, lanterns, 
and car-hardware and trimmings, which railroads 
needed, but which could not well be carried in 
stock, so they established a manufacturing depart- 
ment to meet these wants. J. McGregor Adams 
has been the president since the company's incor- 
poration, in 1S74, and the concern is the largest 
manufactory of railroad and street-car lamps and 
hardware in America, employing a thousand men, 
and occupying an entire block with its works. 




iiffffff'i 



"'■ '^^-^'^ -^-. - 

CHICAGO : ADAMS & WESTLAKE COMPANY. 

Among the products of the Adams & Westlake Co. are also a large variety of oil and vapor 
stoves, numerous specialties in the hardware line, and brass bedsteads. 

One of the few great wholesale hardware houses in the world was founded at Chicago in 
1855 > ^'^"i nine years ago received incorporation as Ilibbard, Spencer, Bartlett & Co. It 
has trebled its size during the last fifteen years, and is still advancing. It employs 350 men, 
and a capital of more than a million dollars. Besides its warehouses, it occupies six contig- 
uous and connected five-story buildings, making one huge establishment. The basement is 
filled with heavy articles, like nails and chains, aiid sheet 
and galvanized iron ; the ground floor, with offices, and 
samples of all the lines of goods ; the second floor, with 
mechanics' tools, builders' and shelf hardware, bicycles 
and sporting goods, guns and ammunition ; the third 
floor, with tin and wire goods, cast hollow-ware, and 
lanterns ; the fourth floor, with spades and shovels, and 
packing for shipment ; and the fifth floor, with farm- 
ing and gardening implements. The demand for these 
articles is unlimited, especially in the newer States ; 
and commercial travellers represent the house in the re- Chicago : hibbard, spencer, bartlett & co. 
motest regions, replenishing the depleted stocks of the retailers with the endless varieties 
and many grades of metal goods of American and foreign make. 

The present tendency of the commercial and industrial world to concentrate and econo- 
mize is remarkably exemplified in the growth of the American Wheel Company, whose 
headquarters are at Chicago. This company was incorporated late in 1889, and immediately 
acquired, by purchase, six of the leading wheel-making plants in America. The companies 
thus purchased were the Woodburn " Sarven- Wheel " Co., of Indianapolis (Ind.); N. G. 
Olds & Son, of Fort Wayne (Ind.); the Keyes Mfg. Co., of Terre Haute (Ind.); the San- 
dusky Wheel Co., of Sandusky (Ohio) ; Iloopes Bro. & Darlington Co., of West Chester 
(Pa.); and the Wapakoneta Spoke & Wheel Co., of Wapakoneta (Ohio). This confedera- 
tion has gradually been increased until the American Wheel Company now owns and operates 
directly or indirectly upwards of 30 plants, scattered over a large portion of the Union. The 
American Wheel Company is not a Trust, but a plain corporation, organized under the 
laws of Illinois, with a capital of $3,000,000, which is being used in the manufacture of 
vehicle wheels. Immediately upon acquiring the plants, this company set about system- 
atizing the work in each factory, until at the present time but two or three sizes are manu- 
factured, where the variety before was almost unlimited. By this action the cost of pro- 
duction has been materially decreased, and in addition, the company has cut off all selling 
expenses, and by being large purchasers of material arc able to place their product upon the 
market at a much less cost than could have possibly lieen reached by any of the individual 
concerns which this corporation purchased. The company is in a prosperous condition, 
with a largely increased business. 



THE ST A TE OE ILLINOIS. 



227 





CHICAGO MARSHALL FIELD & CO (WHOLESALE ) 



HICAGO . MARSHALL FIELD i CO. (RETAIL. J 



Away 
back in the 
fifues, Pot- 
tei Palmer 
founded 
adiy goods 
busi nes.s 
niChicago; 
ant] in 1S65 
Marshall 
PilUI, Levi 

Z. Leiter and Milton J. Palmer succeeded to it, 
under the name of Field, Leiter & Co., which in 188 1 became Marshall Field & Co. This 
is the largest house in its line in America, employing 3,500 persons, and having l)ranch 
offices at New York, Manchester, Paris and Chemnitz. The business reaches $37,000,000 
a year, about one fifth of which is at retail. They distribute goods throughout the entire 
United States, purchasing immense quantities for cash, and thus being able to supply the 
trade and others at the lowest possible prices. At all seasons they carry very large stocks, 
not only of imported and American dry-goods, but also of furnishings and carpets, upholster- 
ing goods, furs, and many other lines. The retail building is hardly surpassed in spacious- 
ness and beauty ; while the wholesale building, designed by 
IL H. Richardson, and built by Norcross Brothers, forms the 
most magnificent commercial edifice on the continent. These 
two structures are in different parts of Chicago, and cover 
great areas of ground. 

In the matter of clothing the citizens of the Northwest, 
whether men or youths, boys or children, the firm of Henry 
W. King & Co., of Chicago, is the largest single manufacturer. 
This firm was founded in 1854, as Barrett, King & Co. Mr. 
Barrett retired in "i 864, when the firm changed to King, Kel- 
logg & Co. ; and in 1868 the firm dissolved, and Mr. King 
associated with himself, Wm. C. Browning and Edward W. 
Dewey, of New York, under the firm-names of Henry W. King & Co., Chicago, as whole- 
salers, and Browning, King & Co., New York, as manufacturers. Besides their jobbing 
business at Chicago, which is an extensive one, they have retail stores in New York, Brook- 
lyn, Philadelphia, Cincinnati, St. Louis, Kansas City, Omaha, Minneapolis, St. Paul, Mil- 
waukee and Chicago. Fully 4,000 persons are in the employ of these concerns, and the 
pay-roll of the New- York factory is $1,000,000 a year, and the general output of clothing, 
between four and five million dollars annually, reaching all parts of America. 

The ladies of all the great interior and Western 
States are largely supplied with their millinery, furnish- 
ings and fancy goods from stocks supplied by D. B. 
Fisk & Co., of Chicago, probably the largest and most 
ably managed house of the kind in the world. Their 
emporium covers six large and well-lighted floors, each 
nearly half an acre in area, with artistic displays of 
costly ribbons and feathers, beautiful flowers, fine straw 
goods and other attractive articles, from their own fac- 
tory, as well as from the most famous manufactories in 
Europe and elsewhere. The house was founded in 
1853, by D. B. Fisk, who has seen it grow into an im- 
mense establishment, with 500 employes, and a whole- 




HENRY W. KING & CO. 




CHICAGO . D B FISK i. CO. 



228 



AVNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




sale trade reaching over more than half a continent. One of 
the chief needs of a millinery house is intimate connection 
with the European centres of fashion ; and the arrangements 
here are so perfect, that this firm offers the choicest French 
and Continental novelties to its patrons simultaneously with 
their appearance in the fashion centres of Europe. 

Few houses in Chicago, or the whole west, are more honorably 
known than E. W. Blatchford & Co., whose trade-mark motto — 
" reputation, a tower of strength " — has been truly borne out in 
an uninterrupted career of almost 40 years. The business was 
"" established in 1854, and incorporated in 1890. It includes the 
manufacturing of lead and kindred and alloyed metals, and their 
various products, — sheet, bar, pig and glaziers' lead, lead pipe, 
sash weights, solder, electrotype, stereotype andliabbitt metals, etc.; and also the dealing in 



CHICAGO : 
MANUAL TRAINING SCHOOL. 



n t i m o n i al 
tinnal reputa- 




E. W. BLATCHFORD & CO. 



pig tin, and ingot, sheet and bar copper, antimony of all grades, spelter and 

lead. Closely allied are two establishments, which themselves have a na- 
tion — the Chicago Shot Tower Works, with capacity for - -_ 

50,000 pounds a day of their famous brands of "stand 

ard" shot made into 30 sizes, and the Blatchford 

Cartridge Works, making a full line of cartridges. 

The group of factories are on the west side, and are ^-!r(ii 

substantial brick structures, covering the greater iifEfl__ 

part of a block. The shot tower, 200 feet high, has "Mf^^^jll 

been a familiar landmark for a quarter of a century, ^ja.^ j" - J' f M 

While being recognized as eminently successful busi 

ness men and notable manufacturers, the Blatch 

fords have been prominently identified with charitable, religious and educational institutions. 

The immense development of the shoe- 
manufacturing business in the West has been 
materially facilitated by the erection of com- 
pletely eqviipped tanneries in various localities. 
The foremost of these belongs to the Walker 
Oakley Company, whose enormous Chicago 
tanneries employ 400 men, and produce yearly 
400,000 wax calf-skins, 150,000 kips and 50,- 
000 satin calf, which are disposed of at the 
company's offices at Chicago, Boston and 
San Francisco. This industry was founded in 

the sixties, by Joseph H. Walker, of Worcester (Mass.), and 

others, and received incorporation in 1890, under the Illinois 

laws, having a very large paid-in capital and strong security. 

The trade extends all over the country of the Great Lakes 

and the Mississippi Valley, and is growing with the growth of 

the population of the Northwest. The Walker Oakley Com- 
pany enjoys peculiar advantages for a liberal disposition of 

its resources on account of its nearness to the sources of 

supply as regards the material for fine grades of leather. 
Among the oldest and most prominent houses of Chicago 

is that of M. D. Wells & Co., manufacturers of and whole- 
sale dealers in boots and shoes, whose origin dates from the 

year i860, since which they have advanced with steady step, 

widening the area of their trade. At present, they are rated 




HICAGO : WALKER OAKLEY COMPANY. 




CHICAGO ; M. 0. WELLS & Ca 



THE STATE OE ILLINOIS. 



229 



5 ,5 51 



'^ 



liiiiiiiliiii i 



as worth upwards of ,f 2,000,000, and are adding largely to 
their capital each year. Chicago is the greatest distribut- 
ing point for boots and shoes for the whole West and South, 
and hence there have grown up several enormous houses in 
this line, but the foremost of all is M. D. Wells & Co. They 
have their own factories, and use the whole output of other 
factories ; and enjoy the closest relations with many of the 
manufacturers of New England and elsewhere. They em- 
ploy 600 persons in their factory, with an output of 3,000 cHii^nu^ . >.r,,^^„^ -■-. ^ lo. 

pairs of boots and shoes daily ; and the store and salesrooms occupy seven floors, and 
employ 75 travelling salesmen. 

Here, also, at Chicago, is the great supply-point for the thousands of grocery-stores and 
country-dealers in the interior of the continent ; and it is claimed that the wholesale grocery- 
house of Sprague, Warner & Co. has the largest business of any house in its line in 
America. This concern was founded by A. A. Sprague and E. J. Warner, in 1862, when it 
began with a very small stock and a borrowed capital. O. S. A. Sprague entered as a part- 
ner in 18(13. Increasing year by year, parallel with the growth of its tributary States, the 

company has attained a gigantic development, and sends 
its men and goods throughout all the interior. Western 
and Far- Western regions, with a trade extending from 
Texas to Manitoba. All the members of the firm are 
Vermonters, and combine New-England prudence and 
industry with Western enterprise. With all the jobbing 
houses of Chicago, they were burned out and sustained 
heavy loss in the great. fire of 1871, but opened business 
the next day on the West Side. A single truck-load of 
merchandise, saved from the conflagration, comprised 
their entire stock for the first week, but unimpared credit 
and fast freight enabled them in a short time to supply 
the demands of their customers. 

The A. Booth Packing Company are the largest pack- 
ers of hermetically sealed canned goods in the world, 
that is, they produce the largest number of cans actually packed. This enormous oyster, 
fish and canned goods business was founded in 1850 by Alfred Booth, who is still at the 
head of the corporation, which now operates with a paid-up capital of $1,000,000, and a 
surplus nearly as large. The chief offices, at Chicago, and the 21 branches, employ 5.000 
people. The principal fishing stations are at Duluth (Minn.), Bayfield and Ashland (Wis.), 
Ontonagon, Manistique, St. Ignace, St. James, and Escanaba (Mich.), Port Arthur (Ont.), 
and Winnipeg (Man. ). The main distributing houses are at Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis, 
St. Louis, Omaha, Lincoln, Kansas City, and Denver. At Baltimore their factory has a 
capacity for packing 75,000 cans daily. Here their ample fleets 
obtain large supplies of oysters from Chesapeake and Delaware 
Bays, and the choicest fruits and vegetables from the surround- 
ing country. At Astoria, on the Columbia River, their salmon 
packing establishment is the largest in the industry. At Mo- 
bile their immense plant is equipped to pack the great yield of 
oysters and shrimps. The canned goods bearing the A. Booth 
Packing Company's brands — "Oval," "Black Diamond," and 
"Old Honesty" on Cove oysters, shrimp, fruits, vegetables and 
fish, are sold by grocers throughout the world ; the prominence 
of these brands resulting from extreme caution and careful 
selection of thoroughly trustworthy goods. This company are 




CHICAGO : CENTRAL MUSIC HALL. 







CHICAGO : A. BOOTH PACKING CO. 



23° 



R'ING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STA TES. 




the largest patrons of the express companies in America. Their operations extend from 
the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from Lake Winnipeg to the Gulf of Mexico, requiring the 
constant use of several lines of steamships, running in connection with their fishing boats. 

The preeminent distillery of the United States is 
Henry H. Shufeldt & Co.'s, at Chicago. It has a fame 
throughout the world for various reasons. Ever since 
1849, when the distillery was established, its goods have 
been recognized as unsurpassed. Its rectifying ho\ise was 
established in 1857. In 1878, at Paris, in competition 
with the choicest productions of all nations, this house was 
awarded the gold medal "for purity and excellence of pro- 
ducts of distillation over all competitors." In 1 891 it was 
discovered that a plot had been put into execution to blow 
up and destroy Shufeldt & Co.'s distillery, the impression 
being that it was due to the fact that this was almost the 
only formidable house refusing to enter into the so-called 
"whisky trust." The plant covers over four acres. The warehouses can store 25,000 
barrels. The capacity is 9,000,000 gallons a year, requiring more than 2,100,000 bushels 
of corn. Five million dollars a year are paid to the Government for duties on distilled spirits. 
Its well-known brands of "Imperial Gin" and "Rye Malt Gin" are distilled by the im- 
proved Holland process. A special product is "Grano-Gluten Feed," for feeding cattle. 

The American Biscuit & Manufacturing Company, with general offices at Chicago, is the 
largest corporation in the world producing biscuits, crackers, bread, confectionery and maca- 
roni. The company was incorporated in i S90, with a capital 
of $10,000,000. On its pay-rolls appear the names of 
3,000 people, who are engaged in manufacturing and selling 
its products. It is the largest consumer of flour and sugar 
in the world, using 10,000 barrels of flour and 5,000 barrels 
of sugar a week. It owns and operates 35 plants, including 
the principal baking establishments in the United States, 
the largest being in New York, Chicago, St. Louis and 
Kansas City. Its factory in New York has the greatest 
capacity of any biscuit works in the United States. At 
these plants are turned out many well-known specialties, 
which enjoy a national reputation with consumers of bis- 
cuits and confectionery. The company is the owner of the celebrated Dake, Bremner, 
Dozier, Langles, and other familiar brands of crackers. Since the incorporation many im- 
provements and economies have been introduced into the methods of manufacturing and 
disposing of its out-put, thereby enabling it to produce crackers and confectionery of a 
superior quality, and at a lower cost than others. The officers have had long experience in 
their line, and the plants are managed by practical men who have grown up in the business. 
The Albert Dickinson Company of Chicago is the foremost grass and field seed-house of 

the United States. It was established in 1854, by 

Albert F. Dickinson, the father of the president 
of the present corporation. At that time the busi- 
ness was chiefly on commission ; but for many years 
they have been exclusively dealers in the products 
handled, buying at and selling to the principal 
American and European centres. Albert Dickin- 
son succeeded to the business in 1S72, since which 
time it has grown rapidly, especially during the 
DICKINSON COMPANY. past tcu ycars. In 1887 the present company was 



:Wj. 




CHICAGO : AME! 



IT A MFG. CO. 







THE STATE OF ILL/NO/S. 



231 




CHICAGO : ANDERSON PRESSED-BRICK CO. 



incorporated, with a capital of $200,000 (since increased to $250,000), and now their opera- 
tions as dealers extend over the whole American continent, and their exports and imports to 
and from Europe are very large. Among the varieties of agricultural seeds handled, their 
specialties are clovers and timothy, besides the other staples. Flax-seed is also dealt in 
largely, being shipped in cargoes to distributing points, and in carloads to local crushers. As 
importers of bird-seeds they stand unrivalled, and in pop-corn their output is probably the 
largest in this country. The main offices are on Kinzie Street, where the firm occupies sev- 
eral large buildings; but the principal warehouse is a large brick structure, at the corner of 
i6th and Clark Streets, owned and occupied solely by the Albert Dickinson Company, and 
used only in re-cleaning and re-handling the various articles connected with the business. 

The genius of the brick-making art is J. C. Anderson, of Chicago, who has taken out 
several scores of patents pertaining thereto. Under his inspiration the material which had 
only been used for the jilainest buildings has become full of artistic beauties and capabilities, 
richly varying in shapes and sizes, surfaces and colors ; and the brick industry, which a 
few years ago was among the commonest of manufactures, can now claim a position among 
the fine arts. The Chicago Anderson Pressed-Brick Company, under Mr. Anderson's presi- 
dency, has a plant covering nine acres, on the North Branch of the Chicago River, and em- 
ploys 200 men, working under the Anderson patents, in conjunction with the New- England 

and New-York Anderson Pressed-Brick Com- 
panies. These three corporations control the 
manufacture and sale of obsidian brick, remark- 
able for rich body colors in browns, grays and 
blues ; metallic-dressed brick, yielding bronze 
and metal-tinted colors ; mossed brick, cov- 
ered with a similitude of mosses; aluminum 
brick, silvery and bronze-like, indestructible by 
heat, weather or abrasion, and turning the hardest steel points ; brecciated enamel brick, 
richly colored and glazed, and adaptable for the finest interior decorative work ; plain 
enamel and rock-faced brick ; brick in fac-simile of granite and other stones, in color and 
grain ; and a variety of shapes and sizes of brick for decorative uses. 

The latest and greatest of the Anderson inventions is in use by the Chicago Anderson 
Common Brick Company, at their new half-million-dollar plant, covermg 80 acres, and hav- 
ing a capacity of 300,000 brick a day. Two tunnel-kilns 672 feet long run through the main 
building, and at their centres burn perpetual fires of crude oil, hot enough to melt steel. 
There are 48 standard-size cars of iron, protected by fire-proof coverings, and each bearing 
12,000 brick, continually being pushed through the tunnels, by screw-power. The cars of 
green brick slowly pass a succession of intensely hot cars of burnt brick, moving away from 
the central fires, and from their escaping heat the green brick are baked to a cherry red, even 
before they reach the fires, where they receive a final shrinking heat. Then they move out 
again, yielding their heat to in-coming cars of green brick. They are loaded from the press 
on to the iron-kiln cars, and from these on to the cars for the market, thus saving a great 
amount of handling and labor, while the economy of fuel and heat is an element of high 
value. James C. Anderson, the inventor of this marvelous process, is president of the 
company, which is capitalized at $600,000. 
The works are on the Stickney tract, near 
the elaborate system of the Chicago Union 
Transfer Railway Company. Power is fur- 
nished by a battery of six large boilers, run- 
ning several engines ; and the entire plant 
is lighted by electricity, and thoroughly 
equipped for efficient service, for the enor- 
mous work devolved upon it. 




CHICAGO : ANDERSON COMMON BRICK CO. 



232 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LEh COMPANY 



One of tlie greatest needs of the treeless prairie 
regions of the West is lumber for building pur- 
poses. The largest manufacturers and distributors 
of lumber and building material is the Chicago 
Lumber Co., with its numerous yards throughout 
the States of Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska 
and Colorado. This company was established in 
the year 1866, and now employs a paid-up capital 
of $5,000,000; and their yearly sales amount to 
|! 18,000,000. They manufacture and handle lumber from all sections of the country, red- 
wood from California, white pine from Michigan and Wisconsin, yellow pine from the 
Southern States, and yellow poplar from Virginia, Tennessee and Kentucky. The stock 
includes huge piles of boards and joists, laths and shingles, in all varieties, and doors and 
blinds, battens and pickets, and other building materials, in pine, maple, poplar, cypress, 
redwood and other woods. The active head of the Chicago Lumber Co. is M. T. Greene, 
president and general manager; and S. R. Frazier, Jr., is secretary. The general offices 
of the company are at Chicago. Railroads traverse the Chicago yards in every direction. 

The leading American house in the manufacture and introduction 
and sale of athletic goods of every description is that of A. G. Spalding & 
Bros., of Chicago, which was organized in 1876 by A. G. Spalding and J. 
W. Spalding. The house was incorporated under the laws of Illinois, in 
1885, and now maintains large establishments in New York and Philadel- 
pTiia, as well as in Chicago. Their manufactories are located in Chicago 
and Philadelphia, and their capital of over half a million dollars is fully 
employed in the manufacture and sale of base-ball goods, lawn tennis, 
outdoor games, bicycles, gymnasium apparatus, athletic uniforms, and in 
fact athletic goods of every description. Everyone interested in base- 
ball, the national game of America, is fully aware of the preeminent 
position A. G. Spalding occupies, as president of the Chicago Base-Ball 
Club, and as one of the leaders in the base-ball legislation of the country. 
The increased interest in athletic sports is having a marked influence 
in the development everywhere of sound minds and sound bodies, and 
the house of A. G. Spalding & Bros, is now, and has been for 15 years, 
the leader in promoting the popular interest in all manner of vigorous 
outdoor recreations and exercises, asd hence is a benefit to the American people. 

In 1872, the year after the great Chicago fire, two young employes of crockery houses, 
E. H. Pitkin and J. W. Brooks, Jr., established a new crockery concern, occupying a little 
frame building on Michigan Avenue. From this small germ has grown the firm of Pitkin & 
Brooks, one of the greatest American houses in the crockery and queensware, glassware and 
china trade, founded safely on the well-won confidence of the dealers throughout the West 
and South and the residents of Chicago and transient visitors. Immense importations of 
the finest foreign wares and consignments of American goods of similar character are 
received at its many-storied Chicago store and warehouses, which 
have very spacious and attractive show-rooms and retail sales- 
rooms, the best in their line in America. From these inexhaus- 
tible resources, the country from Canada to Mexico, and from 
the Pacific Ocean to Chesapeake Bay, is largely supplied with 
all grades of crockery and glassware, from the heavy, cheap and 
serviceable articles used by the industrial and rural families to 
the exquisite and delicate decorated china, Haviland and Royal 
Worcester, and the diamond-like cut glass which adorn the tables 
of the wealthy, — Pitkin & Brooks' special importations. 




CHICAGO ; 
Q. SPALDING &. BROS. 





i^^jJ 


\ 


'^^^% 
. f "^ 


Mir.silr«,\iS 


iTTT 


. :" ?f7f(l'fHif 


_ 


L 




39,503 
1.834,123 

144,1 
1,010,361 

967,940 
2,192,404 



36,350 

13 

2.344 

92 

2,093 
5,971 



Indiana's first European 

visitor was La Salle, who, 

in 1669-70, coasted along 

the Ohio River with his 

brave French explorers and 

opened a trade with the 

natives. Afterwards he 

crossed the portage (near 

South Bend) from the St. 
Joseph to the Kankakee. This brilliant chieftain concen- 
trated all the Indians of the Ohio Valley around his fort on 
the Illinois River, for mutual defense against the terrible 
Iroquois, and in so doing he depopulated Indiana. After 
the French founded Detroit the local tribes wandered back 
into Indiana and settled there. Post Ouiatenon, founded 
near the site of Lafayette in 1720, was the first military 
establishment here, followed, seven years later, by the Poste 
du Ouabache, which the Sieur de Vincennes, established, on 
the site of the present Vincennes. Indiana lay partly in 
Canada and partly in Louisiana, the region north of Terre 
Haute being governed from Detroit, while the remainder 
received its rule from New Orleans. The best French 
officers and Indian warriors of Indiana were slain in an 
attack on the Chickasaws, in 1736, and after that Lieut. 
St. Ange commanded at Vincennes for nearly thirty years, 
with prudence and wisdom. After the cession of the 
western country to Great Britain, British officers came to 
the Wabash villages and set up the rule of London. The 
residents, descendants of the Canadian wood-rangers {coiir- 
eurs de bois') and French soldiery, dwelt in the peace of 
contented peasantry, raising plenty of good wheat, tobacco 
and wine, with the help of Indian and African slaves. For 
two thirds of a century the French made one of their fav- 
orite routes from Lake Erie to the Mississippi River across 
Indiana, ascending the Maumee River, with a long portage near Lafayette, and then de- 
scending the Wabash and Ohio. Their chief villages and trading-posts were at the head 
of the Maumee, Wea Prairie (Lafayette) and Vincennes. In 1778, George Rogers Clark 



Vincennes. 

. . 1702 

Frenchmen. 

. . 1816 

1, 3150,428 

1,680,637 

1,978,301 



Settled at ... . 
Settled in ... . 
Founded by . . . 
.\dinitted as a State, . 
Population in i86o. 

In 1870, 

In 1880, 

White, .... 

Colored 

American-ljorii, 
Foreigjn-born, . 

Males, 

Females, .... 

In 1890 (U. S. Census) 

Population to the square mile, 55.1 

Voting Population (18S0), 498,437 

Vote for Harrison (1888I, 263,361 

Vote for Cleveland (1888), 260,969 

Net State Debt (1890), §3,661,723 

Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . . $783,000,000 



Area (square miles), 
U. S. Representatives (i 
Militia (disciplined), . 

Counties, 

Post-offices, .... 
Railroads (miles), . . 
Manufactures (yearly), $148,000,000 
Farm Land (in acres), . 21,000,000 
Farm-Land Values, $635,000,000 

Public Schools, 10,000 

Average School Attendance, 409,000 

Newspapers, 698 

Latitude, . . . 37''47' to 4i"46' N. 
Longitude, . . 84°49' to 88"2' W 
Temperature, . . . — 25° to loi'' 
Mean Temper't'e (Indianapolis) 52.3° 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIK POP- 
ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). 

Indianapolis 105,436 

Evansville, 50,756 

I'^ori Wayne 35,393 

Terre Haute, 30,217 

South Hend 21,819 

New Albany 21,059 

Richmond, 16,608 

Lafayette 16,243 

Logansport 13.328 

Elkhart, 11,360 



234 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




VYANDOTTE CAVE. 




FARM SCENE. 



and his Virginians, advancing from Kentucky, captured Vin- 
cennes and other British posts north of the Ohio. Thereupon 
Gov. Hamilton led down a British force from Detroit and recap- 
tured Vincennes, but Col. Clark advanced rapidly against him, 
and after a close siege compelled the Royal forces to surrender 
the fort, with thirteen cannon and $500,000 worth of military 
stores. 

After the Virginians had conquered the country, the greater 
part of Indiana rested under a court of justice at Vincennes, which 
freely granted territory to all applicants. At this time the non- 
Indian inhabitants were all French or half-breeds, and numbered 
fewer than 1,600 persons. Another singular element came into 
Indiana in 1781, when a force of Spaniards under Capt. Eugenio 
Pourre marched across it from St. Louis and captured Fort St. Josephs. After Virginia 
ceded her vast inland empire to the United States in 1784, the Vincennes administration 
became part of the Territory Northwest of the Ohio River ; and in iSoo Indiana became a 

Territory, including also Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin 
and part of Minnesota. In 1804-5 the jurisdiction of 
Indiana covered all the country from Ohio to the Ore- 
gon Country. According to the report of Jefferson's 
congressional committee, in 1804, parts of Indiana were 
to have been allotted to the proposed States of Polypo- 
tamia,» Pelisipia, lUinoisa, Saratoga, Assenisipia and 
Mctropotamia. 

I^ouis XV. 's decree established slavery in the Missis- 
sippi and Ohio Valleys, but the American Ordinance of 
1787 set the Northwest Territory apart for freedom. A strong party in southern Indiana 
favored the perpetuation of slavery there, and kept it in actual operation until after 1840. 

In 181 1 the eloquence of Tecumseh aroused the Shawnees 
to hostility against the American Government. In November, 
181 1, Gov. Harrison advanced to the Prophet's Town (seven 
miles north of Lafayette) with 900 men, and was attacked in 
camp by 1,000 Indians before sunrise. He lost 188 men, but 
finally repulsed the enemy by a series of desperate charges, and 
inflicted heavy losses on them, burning their town and laying 
waste the country. The Shawnees sued for peace. During 
the war of 1812 Indiana suffered severely, and Fort Wayne and 
other strongholds were assaulted or besieged by the enemy. 

Costly and premature internal im- 
provements after 1830 reduced the State 
almost to bankruptcy, especially after the 
financial constriction of 1837. For ten 
years Indiana could not even pay the in- 
terest on her bonds; but, in 1847, she re- 
sumed this obligation, and the free bank- 
ing law, the extension of railroads, and 
the inpouring of emigrants ensured a new 
The Name Indiana was first applied 
granted by the Indians in 1768 to a num- 
the aborigines. The pet name is The 
Hushers, the huge white or Indian bullies 
endless sleep ; or from a frequent local colfax monument. 





W^~ 






INDIANAPOLIS : 
SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS' MONUMENT. 

and permanent prosperity, 
to a tract of 3,500,000 acres 
ber of traders. It refers to 
HoosiER State; from 
who could hush one to an 
phrase, "Who's yer?" 




EVANSVILLE : 
-S. COURT-HOUSE AND POST-OFFICE. 

Paris C. Dunning (acting), l^ 



THE STATE OF INDIANA 235 

The Arms of Indiana show an undulating prairie and woodland, with a 
buffalo in the foreground, startled by the axe of a pioneer, who 
is felling a great tree. In the background the sun is rising. 

The Governors of Indiana have been : Te7-ritorial, 
Wm. Henry Harrison, 1800-II; John Gibson (acting), 
1811-13; Thos. Posey, 1813-16. ^Az^i?, Jonathan Jennings, 
1816-22; Wm. Hendricks, 1822-25; James Brown Ray, 
1825-31 ; Noah Noble, 1831-37 ; David Wallace, 1837-40 ; 
Samuel Bigger, 1840-43; James Whitcomb, 1843-48; 
5-49; Jos. A. Wright, 1849-57; Ashbel P. Willard, 1857- 
60; Abram A. Hammond (acting), 1860-61 ; Henry S. Lane, 1861 ; Oliver P. Morton, 
1861-67; Conrad Baker, 1667-73; Thos. A. Hendricks, 1S73-77; Jas. D. Williams, 
1877-80; Isaac P. Gray (acting), 1880-81 ; A. G. Porter, 1881-85; Isaac P. Gray, 1S85- 
Alvin P. Hovey, 1889-91 ; and Ira J. Chase (acting), 1891-3. 

Descriptive. — Indiana is the smallest of the Western States and forms /^ nearly 
rectangle, with Kentucky on the south, beyond the Ohio River, Illinois ^ ^5? 
on the west, Michigan and Lake Michigan on the north, and Ohio on the k^Lni-J^-y^ir^ 
cast. It is a vast undulating plain, inclining toward the southwest, 
where, at the mouth of the Wabash, it reaches its lowest point, 370 ^ 
feet above the sea. The greater part was formerly covered with 
forests of oak, maple, beech and walnut, and the region north of the 
Wabash comprises many treeless prairies, brightened by small lakes. 
The sloughs and lagoons of the north enabled Indiana to claim 
1,200,000 acres under the Swamp-Act land-grant, and afilicted the 
early settlers with almost perpetual chills and fever. In later days the greater part of this 
area has been drained and improved. There are 21,000,000 rods of drain-tile in operation. 
North of Indianapolis the country is a rich loam, resting on a strong clay sub-soil. Along 




FORT WAYNE ; 
P. O. AND COURT-HOUSE. 



Lake Mich- 
here is In- 
proved by 

the lakes, -m; 




"fiipSa 



igan there are fifty miles of shore-line, with belts of high sand-hills, and 
diana's only lake port, at Michigan City. This harbor has been im- 
the Government at a cost of ^900,000, and admits the largest vessels on 
The prairies are diversified by low ridges and mounds and oak-groves, 
ndthe sluggish streams often flow through deeply-wooded 
lens. The uplands are rich and productive, except in 
the southeast, and the river-bottoms cover great 
areas of the best soil. The tendency of late years 
has been to subdivide the farms, mak- 
ing a great number of homesteads. 
Land is held at from $6 to $100 an 




EVANSVILLE I COURT-HOUSE, 

acre, depending on its 
Ohio Valley is a hilly 
with abrupt ridges, cut 
the great river and form- 
to 500 feet high. Half 
a century ago great for- 
ests covered these rugged 
highlands, and much of 
the country remains in its jirimeval condition. Indi- 
ana is the westernmost of the heavily-timbered States 
on this parallel of latitude, and more than a third of 
its surface is still in woodlands, where the hemlocks 
and maples of the North meet the cypresses and sweet 
gums, pecans and sycamores of the South. Many of 



location and improvement 
limestone region, 
by the tributaries of 
ing knobs from 400 



The 



TERRE HAUTE : COURT-HOUSE. 




^-^ffium i, " ' 1 1 1 1 ' J I |i A • 111 il' 

INDIANAPOLIS , COURT HOUSE. 




236 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 








CITY HALL. 



these trees are of great size and beauty. The lumber product is above 
$16,000,000 yearly. TheWabash drains three fourths of Indiana, crossing it 
in a southwesterly course and forming the western boundary for 100 miles. It 
is 600 miles long and has been ascended 300 miles by steamboats, to Logans- 
port. There are six steamboats plying along the stream below 
Vincennes, and nine steamers run between Vincennes and Terre 
^f^'^^--:- ;-f^^^^^ Haute (90 miles) and ports above. The rich Wabash Valley 
f-ifljilj .1 ivr.: '..4 ':3r^^4 covers 12,000 square miles. The West Fork (300) miles and East 
Fork (200 miles) form the White River, which in fifty miles 
^ii=J4u- reaches the Wabash. Its valley of 9,000 square miles is flat 
and heavily timbered, with prairies and rugged hills in the west. 
The St. Joseph flows into Lake Michigan ; the Maumee into 
Lake Erie. In the northern counties many lakes and ponds 
spread out over the level lowlands, with pleasant scenic effects. 

The Climate is in the main healthy, although the north and northwest winds of winter 
are severe and cause sharp changes in the temperature. Spring opens early, and by April 
the fruit-trees are in blossom. The mean yearly temperature of Indianapolis varies from 
50^° to 56^^. 

Agriculture employs a great majority of the people, and the rich alluvial soil, nearly a 

rd deep, and with almost no waste land, gladly 
luces abundant and profitable crops. There 
are 9,000,000 acres in ploughed land 
and meadow and 2,000,000 in pasture. 
The farm products of Indiana were 
valued in 1870 at !| 123,000,000, and in 
1880 at $308,000,000. Nearly 7,000,- 
000 acres are devoted to cereals, yield- 









,-_ - >»^ 



INDIANAPOLIS : INDIANA REFORMATORY FOR WOMEN. 



INDIANAPOLIS : HOSPITAL FOR THE INSANE. 

ing 200,000,000 bushels yearly, the . . 

average product to the acre being much 

greater than that of England or France. 

The Wabash Valley is the richest 

known region for corn and wheat. The 

corn crop yields in favoring years 130,- 

000,000 bushels, valued at over $30,- 

000,000, and taking up nearly 3,000,- 

000 acres. The wheat crop exceeds 40,000,000 bushels yearly, worth above $30,000,000, 

and occupying nearly 3,000,000 acres. 46,000,000 bushels of oats are produced, worth 

$7,000,000; and there are large crops of barley, rye, clover seed, flaxseed, buckwheat, 

sorghum, potatoes and tobacco. The clover and timothy hay crop passes 1,000,000 tons 

yearly, and has reached 2,900,000 tons, valued at 
$35,000,000. There are 10,000,000 fruit-trees in 
Indiana, bearing yearly 36,000,000 bushels of apples 
and 4,000,000 bushels of peaches. The fruit-bear- 
ing countries are mainly in the northeast, but 
peaches are largely cultivated in the south. The 
orchards yield 4,000,000 gallons of cider, and the 
vineyards 7,000,000 pounds of grapes. In the early 
days of the Swiss immigrants large quantities of wine 
were produced. The live-stock of Indiana includes 
600,000 horses and mules, 850,000 oxen, 500,000 
milch cows, 2,200,000 hogs, and 1,400,000 sheep, 
valued at $70,000,000. The sheep once numbered 






BUSlNtSb MEN S ASSOCIATION 



THE STATE OE INDIANA. 



237 



over 2,000,000, and are mostly in the north- 
cast and the Wabash Valley. They yield 4,000,- 
000 pounds of wool yearly. The midland and 
northern counties have most of the live-stock. In 
18S8, 1,750,000 hogs, cattle and sheep were 
slaughtered for food. The dairy products include 
yearly 156,000,000 gallons of milk, 33,000,000 
pounds of butter, and 600,000 pounds of cheese. 
Indiana also sends out yearly 800,000 chickens 
and poultry, 24,000,000 dozen of eggs and 200,- 
000 pounds of feathers. She has 120,000 hives of 
bees, producing over 1,000,000 pounds of honey each year. 

Minerals. — There are 7,000 square miles of bituminous coals, cannel and block, coking 
and non-coking, and their use has been growing since 1 870. The block coal is of great 
value in smelting. It comes in cubical blocks, easy to mine and handle, free from sulphur 
and phosphorus, and burning down into a fragment of white ash. The seams are from one 
'lO eleven feet thick and easily mined, the deepest shaft being 300 feet. A fine cannel coal 




CRAWFORDSVILLE : WABASH COLLEGE. 



is mined at Cannelton and elsewhere near the Ohio River, in 
to five feet thick. It burns freely, with a brilliant flame, an 
has a conchoidal fracture and a dull lustre. It is better than 
the English coal for smelting, and the best known 
for making steel, on account of its free- 



veins from three 



dom from 



phosphorus and sulphur. 
Natural gas is found in a 





TERRE HAUTE : ROSE POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE. 



LAFAYETTE : PURDUE UNIVERSITY AND ART SCHOOL. 

wide belt of counties, and issues from 400 wells, tl:c 
capital invested being $6,000,000. Thousands of fam- 
ilies use this product for heating, cooking and lighting, 
and many large factories are run by it. The State con- 
tains large deposits of hematite iron ore, which is mixed 

with the Lake-Superior and Missouri specular ores. Bog iron occurs in valuable deposits. 

Among other minerals are sandstone and gypsum, slate and lithographic stone, the whetstone 

of Paoli, the marble of Vevay, the bluestone of Bluffton, white glass-sand and brick and 

porcelain clays. Great quantities of Portland cement are made in the south. 

The great Wyandotte Cave near Leavenworth has an unusual wealth of stalactites and 

stalagmites, with a hall 350 feet long and 240 feet high, extending for miles underground. 

Hamer's Mill Stream Cave, in Lawrence County, has been explored for nine miles, by canoes 

rowed up the out-flowing river. The French Lick and West Baden Springs, near Lost River, 

the Indian Springs and the Trinity Springs, all in 

southwestern Indiana, are saline sulphur waters ; 

and the waters of Lodi and Lafayette are of simi- 
lar character. The Greencastle and Knightstown 

waters are chalybeate. 

Chief Cities. — Indianapolis, the centre and 

capital city, was named in 1S21, in a vast level 

forest broken only by Indian trails, and laid out by 

one of the surveyors of Washington City, with 

magnificent avenues. It is a famous railway centre, 

with fifteen converging lines and a belt railroad, indianapolis : the propyl/eum. 




238 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




UNIVERSITY OF NOTRE DAME. 



and has a large trade in grain and live stock, and many 
manufactures, employing 10,000 persons, and producing 
$30,000,000 worth of goods yearly. There are four 
grain elevators, eight flour and grist mills, 100 acres 
of stock-yards and four meat-packing houses. The 
churches number eighty, and many fine public build- 
ings adorn the city. Evansville has a large trade by 
steamboats along the Ohio River and on the seven 
railways centering there, with exports of coal, lumber, 
tobacco, grain and pork, and 400 factories, employing 
11,000 people and !jj3i, 000,000 of capital. It is the chief trade-mart of the Green-River 
region of Kentucky. Fort Wayne, built in 1794, on the site of an ancient Miami village 
and an English fort of 1764, is the chief city of northeastern Indiana, abounding in factories 
and railroads. Terre Haute, on the Wabash, is a fast-growing city of manufactures and 
general trade, with six railways. Logansport is a pleasant manufacturing city, at the falls 
of the Wabash, in a rich farming country. Lafayette, on the Wabash and in a rich farrfling 
country, has large commercial and manufacturing interests. Laporte adjoins the rich Door 
Prairie. Corydon was the State capitol from 1813 to 1825. Richmond is in the rich cereal 
country east of Indianapolis. South Bend, on the St. Joseph River, is famous for its manu- 
factories of wagons and other useful articles. Vincennes, the oldest city in Indiana, and its 
capital from 1800 to 1S13, lifts many tall spires 
in the heart of the garden of the Wabash Valley. 
Jeffersonville and New Albany are on the Ohio, 
opposite Louisville, and many river steamboats 
are built on their shores. Madison, midway be- 
tween Cincinnati and Louisville, is beautifully 
located on the Ohio River. 

The Government consists of a governor 
and lieutenant-governor, elected for four years, 
and other executive officers ; the biennial general 
assembly of 50 four-years' senators and lOO two- 
years' representatives ; the Supreme Court of five justices, elected by the people ; and the 
circuit and superior courts. The State capitol at Indianapolis was begun in 1877 and cost 
$2,000,000. It is of Indiana oolitic limestone, with adornments of statuary, polished columns 
and rich interior work in oak. The dome is 234 feet high. 

Charities and Corrections are relatively less costly in Indiana than in many other 
States, because the commitments for crime are below the average. This is in part due to 
the more even distribution of property among the people, who show an unusual proportion 
of house-holders. The Northern Prison, at Michigan City, has 700 convicts ; the Southern 
Prison, at Jeffersonville, has 540. The House of Refuge for boys, on a large farm at Plain- 
field, has 470 inmates, governed by the family system. At Indianapolis are 
the great buildings of the Insane Asylum, Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 
Blind Asylum and Female Reformatory. 

The Insane Hospital at Logansport was opened in 
1888, and has 360 inmates. The Eastern Insane 
Asylum is at Richmond. Another hospital for the 
insane is at Evansville. The School for the Feeble- 
Minded (340 inmates) is at Fort Wayne. The vSol- 
diers' and Sailors' Orphans' Home at Knightstown 
has 340 inmates. 

Education has advanced amazingly since 1870, 
BLooMiNGTON : INDIANA UNIVERSITY. and has awakened a high enthusiasm among its 




GREENCASTLE : DE PAUV^ UNIVERSITY. 




THE STATE OF INDIANA. 



239 




officers. The permanent school-funds amount to $10,000,000, and the value of school prop- 
erty exceeds !j) 15,000,000. Three fourths of the school population is enrolled as at its studies, 
illiterates falls below one in 1,100. The State Normal School at Terre 
Soo pupils, and there are other public normal schools at Indianapolis and 
"ovington. The private normal schools are at Valparaiso, Dan- 
ille, Ladoga, Mitchell, Richmond, College Hill and Angola. 
)ePauw University was founded at Greencastle, in 1837, under 
the name of Indiana Asbury University, in a rented two- 
room building, with four teachers. In 1884, largely through 
the liberality of the late Hon. W. C. DePauw, of New 
Albany, a noble endowment of over $450,000 was raised, 
and the university took the name of its benefactor. It is 
LAFAYETTE: NEW ELECTRICAL LABORATORY, supcrvlscd by the four Indiana conferences of the Metho- 

PURDUE UNIVERSITY. j-\ T- ■ 1 r'U U •~rx. 1 i 

dist Episcopal Church. The grounds cover 150 acres and 
there are ten buildings. DePauw has 40 instructors and 900 students, in a group of 
schools of arts, law, theology, didactics, music, military science and preparatory studies, each 
with an independent faculty, the chancellor and president being at the head of all and of 
each. There are 270 students in the college, 70 in theology and 24 in law. The school of 
military science and tactics has 180 uniformed cadets. 

Purdue University is the great land-grant college of Indiana, where 400 students are 
carefully taught in mechanics and engineering, and various industrial, agricultural and scien- 
tific branches. It was founded in 1874, at Lafayette, and stands high among scientific 
schools. Indiana University at Bloomington is supported entirely from the public funds, 
and 104 high schools are commissioned to prepare and examine students for admission and 
free tuition. The courses are elective, in 15 departments, with 
a law-school besides. The campus contains 20 acres of high 
and commanding ground near Bloomington, with maple and beech 
groves, amid which stand Wylie, Owen and Maxwell Halls, the ob- 
servatory and the handsome fire-proof Library building, of white 
limestone. There are no dormitories. 

When Indiana was admitted to the Union, in 1816, Congress 
set apart a township of land "for the use of a seminary of learning." 
The State Seminary received its charter in 1820, began work in 
1824, became Indiana College in 1828, and expanded to a university 
in 1838. It now stands among the foremost schools of the West, with thirty instructors and 
300 students (278 of whom are Indianians). The University of Notre Dame, the chief 
Catholic school in the West, was founded in 1842, by the Very Rev. E. Sorin, a mile and 
a half north of South Bend, and close to St. Joseph's and St. Mary's Lakes and St. Joseph 
River. The main building, with its noble dome crowned by a statue of the Vir- 'h gin Mary, 
surrounded by electric lights, contains many historical frescoes by Gregori, ^ the Lc- 
monnier Library of 30,000 volumes, and dormitories and society rooms. 
Music Hall, the great Science Building, Sorin Hall, the Gymnasium, 
the Infirmary and the Gothic church (with 33 bells, the 
famous "Chimes of Notre Dame") are all modern and handsome 
liuildings with pleasant surroundings. The minims (students 
under 13 years) occupy St. Edward's Hall, and are taught by Sis- 
ters of the Holy Cross. They form a company of cadets, while 
the older students compose the battalion of Hoyne Light Guards. 
The university has classical, scientific, civil-engineering and com- 
mercial courses, and a three-years' law course. It has 700 students, 
mostly from outside of Indiana, and including a number from 
abroad. A mile from Notre Dame, by a beautiful avenue of poplars '"°°*''tro°N''JMENT°'^''*' 




INDIANAPOLIS : YOUNG MEN'S 
CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION. 




240 




INDIANAPOLIS : UNION RAILWAY STATION, 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

and maples, is the extensive St. Mary's Academy, with the new 
Church of Our Lady of Loretto. 

Wabash College was founded by the Presbyterian Church, at 
Crawfordsville, in 1832, and has 13 instructors and 400 stu- 
dents, a library of 28,500 volumes, and the commodious modern 
buildings of Centre Hall (chapel, library 
and lecture rooms). Peck Scientific Hall, 
and the Hovey Museum. South Hall was 
built in 1 834. Earlham College is a Friends' 
3f3CI3^E school at Richmond, with 144 students. 
Among other Indiana colleges are Frank- 
lin (Baptist), Ridgeville (Free Baptist), 
Hanover (Presbyterian), Moore's Hill (Methodist), St. Meinrad's (Catholic), Hartsville Uni- 
versity (U. B.), Union Christian (at Merom) and Butler University (Christian), near In- 
dianapolis. 

Rose Polytechnic Institute, at Terre Haute, was founded by Chauncey Rose in 1874 
(and opened in 1883) for the higher education of young men in engineering, and has a four- 
years' course, free to Vigo-County students. There are 16 professors and instructors and 
141 students, with three buildings, on a pleasant campus of ten acres. 

Divinity schools are attached to DePauw University (M. E.), Union Christian College, 
at Merom (Christian), Concordia College, at Fort Wayne (Lutheran) and St. Meinrad's 
College (Catholic). There are law schools at Notre Dame and Greencastle. Indianapolis 
has two regular medical colleges and eclectic, physio-medical and dental schools. Lafayette 
has a college of pharmacy, and Fort Wayne has a 
college of medicine. In these professional schools 
100 men instruct 430 students. 

Indiana Limestone. — At Bedford there are 
some 19 quarries, yielding an enormous quantity 
of exceedingly valuable building stone, popularly 
known as the Bedford limestone, also often spoken 
of as Indiana limestone. It is an oolitic limestone, 
similar to the Portland oolitic limestone, of which 
St. Paul's Cathedral in London is built, and which 
is said to be the best building material known. It 
is also similar to the Caen stone of F" ranee. It is 
said never to break or to crack, and to have an elasticity which makes it of especial value 
in all climates where there are changes of temperature. It contains about 98^ pure car- 
bonate of lime. There are two colors in this stone, a buff and a blue. A United- States 
Government test shows it to be 20;^ stronger than the English Portland oolitic. It is there- 
fore no wonder that this stone has been made of use in some of the most notable structures, 
such as the Auditorium, in Chicago ; the New-York Times building, the Emigrant Indus- 
trial Savings Bank, the Mutual Life Insurance Com- 
pany, and the Vanderbilt residence, in New- York 
City ; the Girard Life-insurance and Annuity Com- 
pany and the Singerly Building, in Philadelphia ; 
the Indiana State Capitol ; the New-Orleans Cotton 
I'^xchange ; the post-offices at Louisville and De- 
troit ; the Soldiers' Monument at Logansport ; the 
bridges at Cairo and St. Louis ; and the Algonquin 
Club, at Boston. The foremost quarries of this 
Bedford stone are those operated by the Hoosier 
BEDFORD : HOOSIER STONE QUARRY. Stouc Company, which owns 200 acres, whence, in 




1^^ 



OS ER STONE CL 








THE STATE OF INDIANA. 



241 




INDIANAPOLIS : 
INDIANAPOLIS NEWS BUILDING 



eight years, they have been able to exhaust only about l^ acres, the estimated product being 
about 2,000,000 cubic feet to the acre. These quarries have been developed chiefly under the 
guidance of Wm. C. Winstandley. And the Bedford stone has been the main cause of 
building up the thriving little city of Bedford. 

The Newspapers of Indiana are about 650 in number. I'he 
Indianapolis N^civs, the leading paper of Indiana, holds a place that 
might be called unique. It was started as an independent journal 
upon definite lines, and during its whole career has clung tenaciously 
to its policy, which, tersely stated, is : "Tell the truth without fear 
or favor, and be honest with your patrons." Its editorial and busi- 
ness departments have been conducted on these principles, and the 
result is an admitted circulation, proportioned to population, larger 
In "z" W^-^ ^^"n than that of any American daily, and an influence that is phenom- 

p In rX- lU 1 '^"^^ "■^ ^'^ reach and power. It has followed a straight course with- 

out a thought whether it would pay or not ; it never has been a 
time-server or a trimmer, and even its bitterest opponents concede 
that The Ne^vs believes what it says. Its business methods have 
l)een such that its owners have nothing to regret or be ashamed of, 
and in its undeviating adherence to the one-price system it stands 
in a comparatively small class. It goes without saying that The 
News has had the enterprise and professional skill which are essen- 
tial in placing any business at the head, particularly in establishing 
a first-class journal in the face of the great 
competition of the day. Having deserved 
the public confidence, it has gained it, and 
keeps it. The Neivs was established in 
1869 by John H. Holliday, who has con- 
trolled it ever since. It was the first two- 
cent paper started after the war west of 
the seaboai"d, excepting at Pittsburgh, and became the pioneer of the Western afternoon 
newspapers, which have almost revolutionized American journalism. The Nezvs is the 
largest and most costly daily in Indiana, its smallest issue being a quarto of 56 columns. It 
employs an array of talent not equalled by any other Indiana paper, and has all the modern 
facilities for the making of a great newspaper. 

National Institutions. — The United-States Arsenal, on a hill east of Indianapolis, has 
several substantial buildings on a pleasant reservation of 76 acres. It is a depository of war 
material, and dates from 1863. The Jeffersonville depot of the Quartermaster's Department 
is the general supply-depot of the United-States Army, and sends clothing and equipage to 
all the military posts. The buildings form a quadrangle 800 feet square, enclosing a lawn 
of 18 acres, and overlooked by a tall central tower. They were erected in 1871-4, in a lo- 
cality central for the Union, near large manufactories and railroads, and the seat of import- 
ant Government departments in 1861-5. 
^ ' f'"'^'^' The Marion branch of the National Sol- 

— =^&~ diers' Home was built in 1889-90, at Marion, 

and has barracks for 1,000 veterans. 

Indianapolis has a magnificent soldiers' 
monument, 265 feet high, with several colos- 
sal bronze statues, trophies of arms, and other 
adornments. In the same city are statues of 
celebrated Indianians — Vice-Presidents Colfax 
and Hendricks, and War-Governor Morton — 
KNiGHTSTowN SOLDIERS AND SAILORS ORPHANS HOME, and otlicr interesting memorials. 




JEFFERSONVILLE : QUARTERMASTER'S DEPARTMENT. 




242 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




INDIANAPOLIS ; 
INDIANA NATIONAL BANK 



Railroads came slowly to Indiana, which had but 45 miles as late as the year 1845. ^^'^ 
now the State is crossed in every direction by their lines, including nearly 7,000 miles of track, 
assessed at $65,000,000. At Indianapolis, Fort Wayne and various other points, the rail- 
ways converge like wheel-spokes, the great routes from the Mississippi Valley to the Atlan- 
tic coast intersecting the north and south lines. The Monon Route (the Louisville, New- 
Albany & Chicago Railroad) from Chicago to Kentucky and the South, 
traverses the entire length of the State. The Wabash & Erie Canal, from 
Toledo to Evansville, 476 miles, is the longest in the Union, part of it 
being held by slack-water navigation on the Maumee and Wabash. 
The section between Lafayette and Fort Wayne has fallen into disuse. 
The Whitewater Canal runs from Lawrenceburg on the Ohio to 
Ilagerstown. 

Finance. — The true value of property in Indiana is not far from 
#pDTiitEaiE5Sn™ : ;, f i goo, ooo, ooo, and the public debts of all kinds fall below .$20,000,000. 
The Bank of the State of Indiana for many years controlled the finan- 
cial policy of this region, and its Indianapolis branch (opened in 
1857) was the oldest banking corporation in the capital city. After 
a successful career this institution, in 1865, became merged into the 
Indiana National Bank, with the same men as officers and the same 
lines of business, and the added advantage of a national-bank charter. 
The resources of the Indiana National Bank now reach nearly $4,000,000. The capital 
paid in is $300,000, and there are $425,000 in the surplus fund and undivided profits. 
Since Volney T. Malott's accession to the presidency, in 1882, the business has quadrupled, 
and the stock has risen to a high figure, while the bank has grown to be recognized not only 
as the largest National bank in the State, but also as one of the strongest and most conserva- 
tive, yet progressive and energetic institutions of Indiana. 

The Manufactures of Indiana have increased over 1,000 per cent, in invested capital 
and yearly products, since i860. They number above 8,000, with 70,000 operatives and a 
capital of $65,000,000. Much of this increase is due to the discovery of natural gas, and 
its use as fuel for factories, at Muncie, Kokomo and other fast-growing cities in the "gas 
belt," where a great variety of manufactures are flourishing. This wonderful product of 
the earth is piped to 75 cities and towns, and results in a saving of above $5,000,000 a 
year, besides being cleaner and more easily manageable than other fuel. It is also in gen- 
eral use for heating and lighting dwellings, and for other domestic purposes. If the sup- 
ply of natural gas is not exhausted, it will be of immense value to Indiana, and cause the 
development of large manufacturing interests. 

A.n idyll of industry appears in the story of the Studebaker Bros. Manufacturing Com- 
pany. The brothers composing the firm were originally two ; afterwards two more were added : 
and three years ago the number was re- 
duced by the death of the younger brother, 
leaving as the leading members of the 
company, Clem Studebaker, president, J. 
M. Studebaker, vice-president, and Peter E. 
Studebaker, treasurer. The business was 
started in South Bend, in 1852, on a total 
capital of $68, together with a thorough 
knowledge of blacksmithing, which the 
brothers had learned at their father's forge 
in Ohio. During the first year the output 
was two wagons ; now i, 500 workmen and 
numberless ingenious machines, which per- 
form the work faster and vastly better than 




SOUTH BEND : STUDEBAKER BROS. MANUFACTURING CO. 



THE STATE OF INDIANA. 



243 










V 



SOUTH BE D tiTUDEBAKER BROS MANUFACTURING CO 



it could be done by hand, are employed in the 
manufacture of all grades of vehicles, from the 
two-wheel road-cart up to President Harrison's 
state landau. The wagon-works and lumber- 
yards at South Bend cover 93 acres ; the car- 
riage-works, at South Bend, cover four acres ; and 
the repository and factory for fine carriage-work 
in Chicago has a front of 105 feet on Michigan 
Avenue, and a height of eight stories. The Chi- 
cago house is the most elegant building of its 
kind in the world; and all the other factories are 
substantially and handsomely built of brick, far 
exceeding in size and extent any other vehicle concern on the globe. Notwithstanding this fact, 
the increased demand for Studebaker vehicles, which roll in nearly every county of the United 
States, while thousands have also been sent to South Africa, Australia, Mexico, South Amer- 
ica, and other foreign countries, has made necessary additions to the South-Bend works which 
will approximately double the present productive capacity. The company was incorporated 
in 1868, with a capital stock of $75,000. The capital stock was increased in 1875 'o 
$1,000,000, which is at this time supplemented by a large surplus. 

The opening up of thousands upon thousands of additional acres to cultivation has called 
for the service of myriads of plows, and one of the foremost suppliers of these has been the 

Oliver Chilled Plow Works, at South Bend, where 
a thousand men are employed, on a plant covering 
42 acres. The business was founded in 1855, by 
James Oliver, an Indiana iron-master, who recog- 
nized the great need of plows at once cheaper and 
better than those then in use, and, after years of ex- 
perimenting, invented the chilled plow, now so fa- 
mous. The outgrowth of Oliver's little foundry is 
the largest and best-planned plow-factory in the 
world. The chilled plow saves the country scores 
of millions of dollars yearly, in the cost of plowing ; 
and immense savings are also made in Europe and Africa, Asia and Australia, South America 
and Mexico, to all of which the Oliver plows are exported. Mr. Oliver was born in Liddes- 
dale, Scotland, and brought up in Indiana ; and many thousands of his plows are in use in 
Scotland to-day. The company also makes a large line of steel plows, besides a variety of 
riding plows ; and with hundreds of styles and sizes is well equipped for prairies and hill-sides, 
vineyards and cotton-fields, lowlands, clay and sandy soils, Texas black lands and South- 
American pampas. 

The Dodge Manufacturing Company, at Mishawaka (on the L. S. & M. S. and Ci. T. R. 
roads) has a ground plant of 80 acres, 
with a floorage of 16 acres, lumber 
yard of 12 acres, and a daily capacity 
of 600 pulleys. This company has the 
remarkable record of having origi- 
nated two of the most noteworthy ad- 
ditions to the mechanics of this gen- 
eration, viz.: the "Independence" 
Wood Split Pulley and the "Ameri- 
can System of Rope Transmission," 
which now constitute the specialties 
of their manufacture. The manufac- „ > doduE manufacturing company. 




SOUTH BEND : OLIVER CHILLED PLOW WORKS. 




244 



A'LVG 'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STA TES. 




INDIANAPOLIS : KINGAN & CO. , LIMITED. 



tirSl','-' 



tare of the "Independence" pulley commenced 
in 1884, and it has now attained a world-wide 
celebrity, and in this country it has become the 
standard of excellence. Its peculiarities are: 
I. the compression fastening to the shaft, with- 
out set screws or keys ; 2. the system of inter- 
changeable bushings, whereby every pulley may 
be adapted to any shaft. The American sys- 
tem of Rope Transmission substitutes a single 
endless rope with uniform tension, for the du- 
plicate ropes and uneven tension of the English system. By this system power may be 
transmitted in any quantity without regard to distance or direction and without loss from slip. 
Both the pulley and the rope transmission are the subjects of numerous patents. 

The development of the pork-packing industry during the time of the civil war induced 
the foundation of many large establishments in this line. Among these was Kingan&Co., 
Limited, whose business began in 1863, and has since grown into large proportions. Its head- 
quarters are in Belfast, Ireland, where an Irish provision business is conducted ; and there are 
branch houses at Kansas City (Kan.), New York and Richmond, Va. The works at Indian- 
apolis cover 13I- acres of ground, occupied by a large and valuable plant, including all the latest 
appliances for successfully conducting the business. A thousand men are employed here. Hogs 
are bought at local stockyards, brought in by farmers from Indiana and Illinois chiefly. These 
hogs are manufactured into hams, sides, shoulders, 
pickled pork and lard, and concomitant products, 
for all of which this firm enjoys an enviable repu- 
tation, in all parts of the world. Kingan & Co. , 
with their extensive ramifications, are said in vol - 
ume of business to rank second only to Armour iV 
Co., of Chicago, in this important industry. 

The road-carts used throughout the world ai\ 
made by the Parry Manufacturing Company of 
Indianapolis. This establishment dates only from 
1882 ; but has rapidly attained such a development 

that now it enjoys the distinction of being the greatest producer of road-carts in the world. 
Its works cover 13 acres of floor spac£ in the heart of the city, and employ a thousand men, 
and have a capacity of 1,300 finished road-carts a day. The yearly product is 200,000 light, 
strong and durable road-carts. The welding is done by electricity, and the forging by natural 
gas. The wood used is second-growth hickory. These airily graceful Parry carts carry one or 
two riders with the greatest ease. The Parry Company also has a large department devoted 
to the manufacture of road and spring wagons, for which there is a continuous demand from 
all over the western country, and elsewhere. 

The settlement of the West and South has called for the erection and equipment of great 
_ numbers of flour-mills; and back in 1851, Ellis 

Nordyke & Son founded a company to supply these 
mills with their machinery. This business is now 
carried on by the Nordyke & Marmon Company, 
whose works at Indianapolis cover 13 acres, and 
employ 600 men. Here is made machinery for mil- 
ling flour and corn, oatmeal and hominy, and for 
grain-elevators, and the roller process in flour-mills. 
This house was one of the first to build flour-mill 
machinery by machinery, and put up mills complete 
1 )y contract. 1 1 has produced a great number of im- 



% 





INDIANAPOLIS ; NORDYKE & MARMON COMPANY. 



THE STATE OF INDIANA. 



245 




INDIANAPOLIS : INDIANAPOLIS CABINET COMPANY. 



provements in milling outfits, and its small portable 
mills are extensively used. They are found in nearly 
all of the States, East, West, North and South, to- 
gether with the Nordyke & Marmon scalpers, flour 
dressers, crushers, shelters, degerminators, dryers, 
purifiers, and all other machines and tools used in 
milling. This establishment is the largest and most 
successful in the country, devoted exclusively to the 
flouring-mill industry. 

The largest exclusive office-desk-making estab- 
lishment in the United States is that of the Indian- 
apolis Cabinet Company, at Indianapolis, founded in 1870, and incorporated in 1880. Their saw 
and veneer mills and other works cover five acres, and employ 400 men, makvjig 60 desks a 
day. The company has several scores of agents, in the chief cities between Halifax and San 
Diego, and large warehouses in London. Fully half their product is exported, and the states- 
men and merchants of India, China and Japan, of Cape Colony and Natal, do their work at 
Indianapolis desks. The United-States Government buys about 2, 500 of these desks every 
year. All the South-American republics have supplied them to their legislators; Honduras and 
Panama receive large consignments, also ; and the Mexican Palace is equipped with over a 
hundred of these desks. The demand from London necessitates weekly shipments thereto. 
The great virtue of Indianapolis desks (especially for tropical countries) is in their hiiilt-up 
construction, with several iiieces of wood glued together, with the grain of one crossing the 

grain of another at right angles, so that the 
unified table-top or writing-bed cannot shrink 
or warp or season-crack. 

One of the abounding and beneficent uses 
of the great corn crop of Indiana and adjacent 
States is found in the manufacture of a variety 
of delicious food-preparations, like hominy, 
grits, clean meal and corn meal, corn flour and 
TERRE HAUTE : THE HUDNUT COMPANY. pearl mcal. Auiong the leading establishments 

in this department is the Hudnut Company (capital, $1,000,000), with large plants at Terre 
Haute and Mount Vernon (Indiana) and Pekin (Illinois), occupying ten acres and employ- 
ing 275 men. They receive daily about 40 car-loads of corn, and every day turn out 3,000 
barrels of white corn goods. This output is sent to all parts of the United States and the 
Old World, and supplies millions of tables with nutritious and palatable food. The company 
was established in 1852, by Theodore Hudnut, who is now its president. With its several 
mills, it is recognized as the largest and most celebrated manufacturer of white corn products 
in the world. This company is the largest single user of corn for any purpose in the whole 
country. The Hudnuts in 1880 were the first to utilize the roller process for corn goods. 

The extensive works of one of the branches of the American Wheel Company are 
situated at Terre Haute, and employ a large number of skilled workmen. Another branch 
of this Company is at Fort Wayne. The 
Woodburn Sarven Wheel Works, at Indian- 
apolis, are also controlled by the American 
Wheel Co. 

The making of plate glass presented in- 
superable difficulties to American manufac- 
turers, until W. C. DePauw entered upon 
it, about 20 years ago, embarking in this 
Inisiness the large capital and valuable ex- 
perience 01 a long and successful career. terre haute : American wheel company's works. 



















246 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




The works thus established at New Albany cover 30 acres of ground, and rank among 
the largest industries in Indiana, and the largest glass-works in America. The plant repre- 
sents an expenditure of $2,000,000, and a business of $2,000,000 a year, extending from 
New York to San Francisco. Its yearly capacity - ,.. 

is fully 2,000,000 feet of plate-glass, 150,000 
boxes of window-glass and 30,000 gross of fruit 
jars. Sheets of polished plate-glass 150x220 
inches in area are made here, and much fine and 
heavy glass for mirrors. There are 132 pots in the 
New-Albany works and 32 in the Louisville 
factory, whose product of rough plate-glass is 
sent to New Albany to be ground and finished. 
All manner of labor-saving devices are in use, new-alban^ : new-albany woolen mills. 

steam-elevators, special water- works, electric lights, and surface and elevated railroads, and 
the great furnaces, never allowed to cool, make from the fine sand of Indiana glass which has 
no superior in the world. The property is now owned by the heirs of W. C. DePauw, and 
leased and operated by the W. C. DePauw Co. 

The New- Albany Woolen Mills are said to be the largest works of the kind west of the 
Alleghany Mountains. They were founded in 1861, and grew by degrees from small begin- 
nings, until now they have a capital of $400,000 and a large surplus. The product includes 
fine cotton warps, for the jeans mills of the Southwest ; flannels and blankets ; and army 
kerseys, adopted by the United-States Government as the standard grade. The mills are sub- 
stantial brick structures, equipped with machinery of the latest and best pattern. Among the 
directors are N. T. and C. W. DePauw, who carry forward the investment made here by 
the Hon. W. C. DePauw, the eminent business-man, glass manufacturer, and philan- 
thropist, and benefactor of the University at Greencastle. The products of the New Albany 
Woolen Mills are highly esteemed by the dry-goods trade throughout the country. 

The natural-gas belt of Indiana has given rise to several bright manufacturing cities, 
prominent among which is Kokomo ; and 22 miles distant, at the very heart of the gas-belt, 
is the growing city of Elwood. These cities possess the largest plate-glass works in America — 
the Diamond Plate-Glass Company. The two plants form the greatest single industry in the 
State, and have arisen with wonderful rapidity, and reached immediate success ; probably, 
owing to the fact that the natural advantages have been acquired by a group of business men 
of national eminence in the manufacturing world, who have gone into these enterprises with 
abundant evidence of faith. The two plants cost $2,500,000, and the buildings cover nearly 
25 acres, and give employment to 2,000 skilled operatives. By reason of its natural gas and 
- — other natural advantages, and its fine 

ti inspoitation facilities, the Diamond 

PI lie tilass Company has found an im- 

nicdnte market for its entire out-put, 

which goes to all parts of the Union. 

1 he quality is found to be fully equal 

I 1 the best French plate-glass, and the 

Kokomo plate-glass has already 

become famous for mirrors. Both 

Kokomo and Ehvood have already 

1 cached the development of much 

older cities, in their pretentious 

public buildings, and schools, 

churches, water -works, paved 

fleets, electric lights, street-cars 

KOKOMO AND ELWOOD DIAMOND PLATE GLASS COMPANY allcl Othcr rCqUlSltCS. 




MrtiON^fVOfriCY 



nDmrifERRiTOf^ 



.^^A^ 



^^ 



-iii^- v>;^ 






TERRITORY 




W^\J- 



H15T0R Y. 



Population in 1890 (U. 
Census), 
Five Civilized Nations 

Indians, .... 

Colored, .... 

White, .... 
Reservation Indians 

Banks, 

Area (square miles), . 
U. S. Representatives, 
Militia (disciplined), . 
Post-ofifices, . . 
Railroads (miles). 
Newspapers, . . 
Latitude, . . . 
Longitude, . . 
Temperature, 
Mean Temperature 



1829 

186,390 
177,682 
52,065 
14,224 
107,987 
8,708 
3 
31,400 



279 



The Indian Territory 
was a part of the Louisiana 
Purchase from France, in 
1803 ; and at that time the 
present use of this region 
was suggested by President 
Jefferson : ' ' To give estab- 
lishments in it to the In- 
dians of the eastern side of 
the Mississippi, in exchange for their present country." 
President Monroe, in 1824, deplored the evils growing out 
of the dwelling of the Indians in the Gulf States, their 
rapid degradation, bloody feuds, and the frequent conflicts 
between the State and National jurisdictions. He recom- 
mended that the tribes should be mioved beyond the 
Mississippi. In 1830, during Jackson's administration. Con- 
gress authorized their transfer, at the cost of the Govern- 
ment, to the imorganized part of the Louisiana Purchase, 
including the Indian Territory. Here they were established 
on tracts proportioned to the size of each tribe, with titles 
vested in them, and ample protection. The pledges of the 
United States to " forever secure to them or their heirs the 
country so exchanged with them" have been repeatedly 
broken, and will continue to be disregarded. Kansas has 
been wrested from them ; and for ten years the rising tides 
of colonization have beaten against this domain of the Indian 
Territory, and only the presence of active bodies of regular- 
army troops along the borders has prevented its permanent 
occupation by myriads of white settlers. 

Before the late civil war, the civilized tribes were 
wealthy and jirosperous, with large farms and plantations, 
and a lucrative trade with the Southern cities. But during 
the war thousands of the Indians enlisted and fought in 
the Federal and Confederate armies ; and at its close the 
tribes were reduced to poverty. Since that time they have advanced notably in prosperity 
and civilization, and now form large farming communities, with a promising degree of 
political, educational and religious progress. There are, however, many crimes of violence, 



STATISTICS. 



Settled at Old Agency. 

Settled in 1827 

Founded by . . . Creek Indians. 
Ceded by the United States 
to the Indians, . 



18 

.S3°35' to 37° N. 

94''2o' to 98° W. 

12° — to 99" 

... 58° 



TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS. 

Lehigh, 3,000 

Mc.4lester 3,000 

Krebs, 3,000 

Muscogee, 2,000 

Purcell, 2,000 

Vinita, 1,200 

Tahlequah 1,200 

Ardmore, ],ooo 

Atoka 800 

Kufaula, 500 



248 



A'/NCrS HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




HERD OF BISON. 



Practically, how- 



largely committed by white T 

intruders, and the Indian 

courts have not been endowed with 

enough authority to repress them. Statesmen 

are striving to restore United-States control here, and 

erect a territorial government, to abate the ignorante, crime and -^ ■ 

savagery rampant, and to do away with the anomaly of a group ^ 

of alien governments in the heart of the Republic. Their plans contem- w 

plate replacing the reservations by fee-simple grants in severalty ; but 

the influence of the chief men in the Five Nations is strongly opposed to 

this movement. They claim that holding land in severalty is a remnant 

of barbaric European feudalism, tending to monopoly, and that now 

every Indian can occupy and enjoy some part of the tribal domains. 

ever, there are many rich men in the tribes, possessing great tracts of land, by virtue of their 

permitted ownership of the improvements thereon. Their criminals, until 1876, the Chero- 

kees either hanged or whipped. In the other civilized tribes criminals are now either shot 

to death or whipped. Among the Creeks a thief thrice convicted is shot to death. 

Descriptive. — The Indian Territory covers over 20,000,000 acres (a larger area than 
Maryland or South Carolina), with fertile and well-watered rolling prairies, diversified by 
abundant timber and rich river valleys, and the great oak-forest of the Cross Timbers, 
forty miles wide, and running from Texas northward to Kansas, with gigantic trees rising 
from an alluvial soil of remarkable fertility. The broad Arkansas River and its tributaries, 
the North and South Canadian, Cimarron, Little Arkansas, Neosho, and Verdigris, and 
the Red River and its affluents on the south, water the Territory in almost every part. The 
Arkansas is navigable by steamboats in high water from Fort Gibson to the Mississippi ; 
and steamers ascend the Red River along nearly the entire southern boundary. 

One of the chief natural endowments of the Territory is its coal-measures, covering 
13,600 square miles, and producing a valuable bituminous coal, great quantities of which 
are mined every year. Iron and lead, copper and gold, marble and sandstone are found in 
various localities ; and salt appears in springs and marshes. 

The Climate is pleasant and equable, with but little snow or cold weather ; and the 
spring opens in February, leading to a long and hot summer. The latitude is the same as 
that of northern Georgia, and well adapted for corn, cotton and fruits. Fully 400,000 
acres are under cultivation in the domains of the five civilized tribes, producing yearly over 
4,500,000 bushels of corn, wheat and oats, 400,000 bushels of vegetables, 60,000 bales of 
cotton, and 175,000 tons of hay, amounting to nearly $6,000,000 a year. They own 800,000 
head of live-stock. Among other products are many thousands of woollen blankets and 

shawls, willow baskets, 8,000,000 feet of lumber, 
maple sugar, wild rice, fish, hemlock bark, cord- 
wood and wool. 

The Missouri, Kansas & Texas Railway runs for 

248 miles through the Cherokee, Creek, Choctaw 

^lA- * i-'^i''^rH* '.*'*H'*)"V&itt<M3WiJP ^"'^ Chickasaw Nations, from Chetopa (Kan.) to 

'i^'lt^J^r^vVi^^ 'w^^^^^l^^ Denison (Texas). The Missouri Pacific operates 

t-liliir/ M iU / \m^^'^rmMi a line through the Cherokee and Creek Nations 

from CofTeyville (Kan.) to Fort Smith (Ark.), 
170 miles, crossing the Missouri, Kansas & Texas 
at Wagoner. The St. -Louis & San-Francisco Rail- 
way connects southwestern Missouri with Sapulpa, 
in the Creek Nation. The Frisco also operates a 
line from Fort Smith (Ark.) through the Choc- 
PREPARiNG FOR THE SUN-DANCE. taw Natlon to Paris (Texas). The Choctaw Coal & 




THE INDIAN TERRITORY. 



249 




=^*«^"^i..t5..,g^_ 



^, -^^^S^'Mi*-^ 



TAHLEQUAH. 



Railway Company has a line from South McAlester on the Missouri, Kansas & Texas to 
near Caston on the Frisco. The Gulf, Colorado & Santa-Fe operates 106 miles of main 
line through the Chickasaw country, connecting Purcell with Gainesville (Texas). Several 
other railroads are chartered to build through the Indian Territory. 

Government. — The International Council assembles occasionally, having representa- 
tives from the five civilized tribes and also delegates from the less advanced Indians of the 
western region. The last successful Council was held at Fort Gibson, in 1888, there being 
twenty tribes represented. This assembly favored unification of the Indian governments 
under a general council, for mutual protection and development, administration of justice 
and the better conduct of their affairs. Several unavailing attempts have been made to con- 
vene the tribal delegates once more, but it is doubtful if another Council will ever be held, 
until the final one which will open the way to a higher development than is possible under 
the present tribal organizations. The United- States Government holds the right of eminent 

domain over the lands of the five tribes, the 
Indians being fee-simple owners, but not 
sovereign, though enjoying to some degree 
the powers of self-government. The United- 
States Indian Agency for the five tribes is 
located at Muscogee, and has jurisdiction 
over all persons, whether Indian or white, 
residing in the Indian country. Its opera- 
tions are considerably handicapped by the 
United-States Courts, and the Indians have 
not been protected in their treaty rights by 
the Government for many years. Indeed, the intruding Anglo-Saxon has secured such a 
strong foothold that it is doubtful if the Government will ever remove the trespassers from 
the Indian lands. Forty-three Indian policemen are attached to the Agency. These officers 
are engaged in the suppression of crime, the prevention of the introduction of whisky, 
and serving orders issued by the Agent. 

Each of the five civilized tribes is governed by a Principal Chief and a Second Chief, 
elected for from two to four years ; an annual legislature of two houses, elected for from 
two to four years ; and a judiciary system. 

Education. — The 220 Indian schools are mainly supported by the five civilized tribes, 
at a yearly cost of over $300,000, and include high and common and private schools and 
seminaries. The teachers are mainly Indians, but the text-books are in the English language. 
Some of the well-to-do Indian families send their children to outside colleges, where they 
attain high rank. The Indian boys also receive manual training in carpentering, black - 
smithing, shoemaking, farming, and stock-raising : and the girls are taught to sew, knit, 
and make butter. The Christian religion has made great advances among the tribes, and 
the Baptists have 162 churches and 8, 141 members ; the Methodists, 52 churches and 8,346 
members; the Catholics, 15 churches and 3,800 communicants; and the Presbyterians, 41 
churches and 2,400 members ; and there are several 
smaller sects with adherents. In all, there are 317 
churches, 537 clergymen, 9,206 Sunday-School 
pupils, and 25,000 church-members. 

The most murderous element in the Territory is 
Arkansas moonshine whisky, brewed in the Ozark 
Mountains, and called "white mule," because 
made by white men, and endowed with the destruc- 
tive powers of the Western mule. It is illegal to 
sell alcoholic liquor in the Territory, as it is in 
Maine, but the traffic goes on, despite the strenuous mound at catoosa. 




250 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




TAHLEQUAH : OLD SEMINARY. 



efforts put forth to stop it. The Indian population is 75,000, 
including 67,000 in the five civilized tribes, and 8,000 in 
smaller bands. There are also 60,000 whites, living here 
under authorization, and a much greater number without legal 
right. Of the tribesmen, 64,000 wear civilized garments, 
45,000 speak English, and 15,000 are farmers. They own 
14,000 houses and 178 churches. 
The Cherokee Nation in early days occupied a great part of Georgia and the adjoining 
States, and welcomed Oglethorpe to their shores. The inroads of white settlers upon their 
lands were met by terrible reprisals, and followed by wars, as a result of which the tribe was 
moved to the Indian Territory, beginning its settlements near Tahlequah, in 1832. Their 
greatest man was Sequoyah, who invented the national alphabet. Many of the Cherokees 
were slaveholders, and went into the Confederate army, but a still larger number enlisted 
and fought in the National armies. After the war, the Southern Cherokees settled in the 
Canadian-River section. The seal of the Cherokee Nation shows a seven-pointed silver star, 
in a round red field, surrounded by a wreath proper, the whole borne on a golden shield. 

The Cherokee Nation numbers 30,000 persons, all of whom wear the raiment of civiliza- 
tion, and 18,000 speak English. Nearly 4,000 live by farming, and there are no hunters. 
Hardly 1,000 are pure-blooded Indians, and 14,000 have more or less Anglo-Saxon blood. 
There are 27,000 white residents, citizens of the United States. The reservation (of 7,681 



!^ sii 




CHEROKEE ORPHAN ASYLUM. 



square miles) covers the northeastern part of the 
Territory, and is divided into nine political dis- 
tricts, or counties. Vinita is its business centre, 
with thirty large stores, and railway outlets in four 
directions. The capital is Tahlequah, an Indian 
village in whose centre stands the brick council- 
house, with the legislative halls and executive 
offices. The volumes of laws and the constitution 
are printed in English and also in Cherokee. The Constitution resembles that of New 
York. Land tenure is according to Henry George's principle, that any one may improve 
vacant lands for his own use, the people being tenants in common, and acquiring exclusive 
rights of possession and sale of the improvements on lands that they have improved. The 
United-States Supreme Court has lately ruled that the Cherokee Nation is not a sovereign 
state, but a ward of the Republic, which has the right of eminent domain over its lands. 
The Cherokee Nation has the right, by a decision of the United-States Supreme Court, to 
determine who are its citizens. There are nearly 5,000 adopted citizens, including 765 
Delaware and 550 Shawnee Indians and 1, 100 whites. White men marrying Cherokee 
women may become citizens of the Nation, and may be elected to all offices, except chief- 
tancy. All the local politicians (and there are many) belong to the ring of political societies 
called the Kee-to-Wah. The Cherokee National Prison is at Tahlequah. There is an asylum 
for the insane, blind, deaf, dumb, decrepit and poor ; and the orphan asylum, at the boil- 
ing artesian salt-wells of Grand Saline, has 150 inmates. The Cherokees spend over 

$80,000 a year on education, their 6,000 
children having 2 high schools, no common 
schools, and 1 5 denominational schools, with 
costly and perfectly equipped seminaries for 
boys and girls, where Latin, mathematics and 
other higher branches are taught. Teachers' 
institutes are held annually at Tahlequah ; 
and nearly all the teachers are Cherokee 
young ladies. The girls' seminary is a hand- 
TAHLEQUAH . CHEROKEE NATIONAL FEMALE SEMINARY. somc ncw brlck buildiug iu a park of eight 




THE INDIAN TERRITORY. 



251 




INDIAN UNIVERSITY. 



acres, crowTiing a far-viewing hill near Tahlequah. Over 
170 Cherokee maidens study here; and those who cannot 
afford to pay are educated by the tribe, and boarded and pro- 
vided with text-books. The teachers are nearly all Chero- 
kees. The National seminary for 200 boys is also near 
''Tahlequah, and its building cost over .$100,000. 

The Advocate, the chief newspaper, is printed partly in 
Cherokee, and furnished free to Cherokees who do not know 
English. It is an official journal, supported by the Nation, and publishes the laws, and other 
official business. The Baptists, Methodists and Presbyterians have 62 churches, mainly 
supported by the devout Indian women. Among the chief local industries are the raising 
of live-stock, the growing of corn and cotton, and lumbering. 

The Chickasavy Nation dwelt in northern Mississippi and Alabama, until the Gov- 
ernment moved them to the Indian Territory, where their reservation lies west of the Choc- 
taw Nation, and borders on Texas. Near its centre are the Table Hills and Fort Arbuckle. 
Ardmore has valuable coal-fields. The country abounds in grain-farms and stock-ranches, 
orchards and forests. The Chickasaws number 6,500, including many large landholders 
and wealthy persons, with the reputation of sharp traders and financiers. The Supreme Court 
is composed of two full-blood Indians and a half-breed. The Capitol is a great brick build- 
ing on a hill-top overlooking Tishomingo, on the Washita River. 
The National Legislature was convened in 1890, to reorganize the 
militia for defence against non-citizens. The two political parties 
are the so-called Progressives, under Paul, an Indian statesman, 
made up of some whites and a few half-breeds ; and 
the Pullbacks, under Byrd, including the full-bloods 
and many half-breeds. The Chickasaws have 
14 common schools and three academies. Full 
60,000 whites dwell here. 

The Creek Nation of Alabama and 
Georgia w^as the most powerful Indian confed- 
eration in America. They called themselves 
Muskogees. They were terribly beaten by 
Gen. Jackson in 181 2-1 5. In 1825 a treaty 
was entered into between them and the United- ^"^^'^ council house. 

States Government, under which 3,000 of them voluntarily removed to the Indian Terri- 
tory, where, in 1835, they were joined by the rest of the tribe. Here they accepted educa- 
tion in mission-schools, and soon began recovering from the depletion caused by their 
migration. As a tribe, they were advancing rapidly, having an educational system of their 
own, when the Secession War broke out. An unsuccessful attempt was made by the Con- 
federate Creeks to prevent the escape of the Unionist party to the Federal lines. Some hard 
fighting occurred between them, but the latter reached a place of safety in Kansas. Since 
their reunion in 1866 the tribe has prospered. The Creeks occupy 5,024 square miles of 
well-wooded and fertile farming land, between the Cherokees and Choctaws, with the Can- 
adian River on the south. They are devoted to cattle- 
raising, and also produce large crops of corn, wheat, cotton 
and pecan nuts. Their capital is Okmulgee, where the 
legislature (made up of the house of kings and the house 
of warriors) convenes every October ; and the Supreme 
Court also holds its sessions there. The tribe numbers 
14,000; and spends !|8o,ooo yearly in sending its young 
men and women to schools in the States, and on its four 
PARK hill: insane and bund asylum. boarding-schools and 40 public schools, having also several 





252 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



denominational schools. The Indian University, near Muscogee, was founded in 1880, 
under Baptist auspices, and tits young Indian men and women for the Christian ministry, 
and teaching. It has a handsome and commodious building. There are also at Muscogee, 
the Harrell Institute, of the Methodist Church South, and the Presbyterian Mission School 
for girls ; both prosperous schools, and reaching the adjacent tribes, as well as the Creeks. 
For the last 60 years the Creeks have sent numbers of their boys into the States to school, 
at the expense of the tribe. 

The Choctaw Nation formerly dwelt in southern Alabama and Mississippi, whence 
they were moved about the year 1830. The reservation, of 10,450 square miles, lies between 
the Canadian and Red Rivers, bordering on Arkansas and Texas. It is a pleasant and fruit- 
ful country, with the Kimishi Mountains in the east, and the Sans-Bois Hills, 1950 feet 
high. The capital is Atoka. The school property is valued at $200,000; and the yearly 
expenditures for education are $83,000, divided between four boarding-schools and 170 
neighborhood schools. There are also several denominational schools. A newspaper is 
published at Atoka. The farmers raise considerable quantities of grain, cotton and live- 
stock. The coal-mines at McAlester were opened in 1872 by Jim McAllister, a squaw- 
man, and are run by the Osage Coal and Mining Company, which pays royalties to the 
owner and to the Choctaw Nation. The capacity of the shafts is l,Soo tons a day, and 
there are 80 coke-ovens. More than half of the 1,200 miners are Italians. There are 
large mines at Caddo, Savanna and Lehigh, with 3,000 whites at the latter place alone. 
The product of coal has reached 600,000 tons in a year, yielding $100,000 in royalty to 

the Choctaws, and $900,000 to the men - - •.-.-. ■ " '" 

in the mines. There are 15,000 Indians 
and colored people, and 42,000 whites, 
in the Choctaw Nation. 

The Seminole Nation, number- 
ing 2,539 persons, was exiled from 
Florida, in 1842, and occupies a poor and 
thin-soiled reservation of 312 square 
miles, between the North and South '^^^J 
Forks of the Canadian River, north of 
the Chickasaw and west of the Creek Nation. The capital is Wewoka, the government 
being by a first and second chief, and a national council of 14 "band-chiefs," at once a legis- 
lature and a supreme court. The Seminole finances are in splendid condition. There 
are but few whites among the Seminoles, who are the most peaceful and law-abiding of the 
Five Nations. They have five free schools and three mission-schools, and one of the finest 
school-buildings in the Indian Territory. 

The reservation Indians in the extreme northeast, among the foothills of the Boston 
Mountains, include 154 Quapaws, from Arkansas; 160 Peorias and Kaskaskias, and 137 
Ottawas, from Illinois ; 288 Wyandottes, 67 Miamis and 79 Shawnees, from Ohio ; 84 
Modocs, from Oregon ; and 255 Senecas and Cayugas, of the old New- York tribes. This 
domain is purely agricultural, mostly allotted in severalty, and crossed by the St. -Louis 
, ,^^^ , _ ^ & San-Francisco Railroad. 

The future destiny of the Indian Territory is filled with uncer- 
.inty, owing to its singularly mixed population, and the intense 
national spirit which has been developed in the civilized tribes. 
If in the course of time it shall advance to the honors of State- 
hood, the progress of the people will be more rapid, and a 
prosperous commonwealth may arise, with Indian sena- 
tors representing the ancient aboriginal clans of the Gulf 
States in the halls of the American Congress, and defend- 

atoka: CHOCTAW COUNCIL HOUSE. iHg thc rights of their people. 




Tulsa, in the creek nation. 






Settled at Burlington. 

Settled in 1835 

Founded by . . New Englanders. 



Admitted as a State, 
Population in 1&6:), 

In 1870 

In ]88o, 



1846 
674.913 
1,194,020 
624,615 



Wliite 1,614,600 



10,015 

1,362,965 

261,650 

848,136 

776,479 

1,911,896 



H15T0KY. 

Father Marquette and 
Joliet visited Iowa in 1673, 
and passed on. The country- 
belonged to the huge Prov- 
ince of Louisiana, claimed 
and held by France, and 
ceded to Spain by that na- 
tion in 1763. Given back 
to France nearly 40 years 

later, it was presently ceded by that power to the United 

States, together with all the western Mississippi Valley. In 

1S04 it belonged to the District of Louisiana, under the 

jurisdiction of Indiana. A year later it was added to the 

new Territory of Louisiana ; and in 1812 it belonged to 

the Territory of Missouri. From 1834 to 1836 Iowa per- 
tained to Michigan, and from 1836 to 1838 to Wisconsin. 

Then the Territory of Iowa came into being, including 

also Minnesota and Dakota, between the Mississippi and 

the Missouri and White-Earth Rivers. These political 

changes were unknown to the inhabitants, who were mainly 

wild Indians — the lowas and Pottawatomies in the west, 

the Sacs and Foxes in the east, and the Sioux and Winne- 

bagoes in the north. The lowas were a tribe of the Dakota 

family, calling themselves Bahucha, and receiving the name 

of Iowa from their enemies, the Algonquins. They formed 

eight clans : the Wolf, Bear, Eagle, Buffalo, Pigeon, Beaver, 

Elk and Snake, each dressing their hair distinctively. The 

last four clans are extinct. They dwelt in northern Iowa, 

and owned the great pipestone quarry. In 1803 they num- 
bered 1,500, and defeated the Osages and Cherokees, but 

were mercilessly beaten by the Sioux. The chiefs Wying- 

waha and Mahaska (White Cloud) made treaties with the 

United States ; and, in 1836, the tribe was moved west of 

the Missouri. Intemperance and disease have reduced them 

to about 200 persons. The first white pioneer of Iowa was Julien Dubuque, a French- 
Canadian trader, who dwelt from 1788 to 18 10 among the Indians at the lead-mines, near 

the city now bearing his name. 



STATISTICS. 



Colored, 
American-born, 
Foreign-born, . 
Males, .... 
Females, . . . 

In 1890 (U. S. Cen 
I'opulation to the square mile,^ 29.3 
Voting Population, . . . 416,658 

Vote for Harrison (i888), 211,598 

Vote for Cleveland (1888I, 179,877 

\et State Debt 

Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . . $478,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . , 56,025 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 11 

Militia (Disciplined), . . . 2,731 

Counties, 99 

Post-offices, ''795 

Railroads (miles), .... 8,360 
Vessels, 79 

Tonnage 10,087 

Manufactures (yearly), $70,045,920 

Operatives, 28,372 

Yearly Wages, . . . $9,725,962 
Farm Land (in acres), . 25,055,163 

Farm-Land Values, . $567,430,227 

Farm Products (yearly) $136,103,473 
Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 304,856 

Newspapers, 878 

Latitude, . . . 40°36' to 43°3o' N. 
Longitude, . 89° 5' to 96° 31' W. 
Temperature, .... —32° to 104° 
Mean Temperature (Des Moines) 49*^ 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). 

Des Moines, .W,o93 

Sioux City, 37,8o6 

Dubuque 30,311 

Davenport, 26,872 

liurlington 22,565 

Council Bluffs, 21.474 

Cedar Rapids, ...... 18,020 

Keokuk 14,101 

Ottumwa, . 14,001 

Clinton, 13,619 



254 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



^ 



%,^^if^z;-^ 



^^*^ 




./A 



In 1S30 tlic Sioux annihilated a largo party of the Sacs and Foxes (including ten chiefs) 
on the Mississippi River, near Dubuque, and the people of those tribes fled in panic from 
their ancient homes. Then began the first wave of immigration, the white miners crossing 
at various points, and occupying the deserted villages and mines. They were ejected by 
the United-States troops under Lieut. Jefferson Davis, by order of Col. Zachary Taylor, who 

. _ ^ went into garrison until the formal cession of the 

^ ^ ^ ^ Territory by the Sacs and Foxes. This was made 

in 1832, to defray the cost of the Black-Hawk 
War, and included the eastern strip of Iowa, 300 
miles along the Mississippi, and 50 miles wide, 
running northward from Missouri. In 1836-7 
other cessions were made. In 1842 Gov. Cham- 
bers consummated the New Purchase, paying 
the Sacs and Foxes $1,000,000 for 15,000,000 
acres of rich land. About 350 members of the 
tribe now dwell on a small reservation on the 
DUBUQUE. Tama River, engaged in farming. 

Allured by far-spread reports of the extraordinary beauty and fertility of Iowa, immi- 
grants crossed the great river by thousands, coming from New England and New York by 
the Erie Canal and the lakes, and from Ohio and Illinois, Kentucky and Missouri, by the 
way of the rivers. The strong set of this tide soon gave population enough for Statehood, 
which was for several years withheld, because the lowans refused to accept the border-line 
proposed by Congress, which cut them off from the Missouri River. Dubuque, the earliest 
permanent village, was founded in 1833. 
The first settlements fringed the Miss- 
issippi, and crept slowly up the Des 
Moines, followed by a similar advance 
along the Missouri, long afterward. The 
Spirit-Lake country was settled by Min- 
nesotans in 1856-7, but they were speed- 
ily attacked by Inkpadootah's Sioux band, and 40 
or more suffered massacre. Through much of 
1858-60 the Spirit-Lake and Sioux-River settlements were pro 
tected from hostile Indians by the Iowa Frontier Guards. 




BURLINGTON. 



The government and diplomacy of Iowa have always been 
conducted with wisdom and conservatism, and the Indian tribes have been removed, internal 
improvements advanced, immigration and capital secured, and education richly endowed 
without the ravages of war or the impairment of financial credit. The State has no debt. 
The chief modern questions in Iowa have been the prohibition of the manufacture, im- 
portation and sale of liquor, and the control by the State Railroad Commissioners of the rail- 
roads. The prohibition liquor laws have been very fully sustained by the Iowa Supreme Court, 
and nearly all points by the United-States Supreme Court. The law is strongly entrenched 
in the judgment of the people, excepting in the larger cities, where a greater proportionate 

foreign population lielps shape public 
sentiment adversely to the law. The 
reaction against prohibition, in 1889, 
arose from a belief in the inefficacy 
and inexpediency of the policy. The 
legislature has enacted a law giving 
the railway commissioners power to 
make such rates as they may see proper, 
and which, when promulgated by the 




DAVENPORT 




THE STATE OF IOWA. 

board, shall be prima facie evidence of reasonable 
rates. It goes farther, and empowers them to compel 
joint rating and joint billing of freight between two 
or more lines of road. This legislation has given 
Iowa lower rates than any of the surrounding States. 
The local jobbers and manufacturers have profited 
largely by it, and are enabled to meet the competi- 
tion of the jobbing houses of the large cities as they 
have never been able to do before. As a result, Des 

Moines, Sioux City, Ottumwa, Cedar Rapids and the Mississippi-River 
cities, Dubuque, Davenport and Burlington, have become extensive jobbing centres. 

The Name of the State, according to Le Claire, the famous half-breed interpreter, 
means, "Here is the place to dwell in peace." This definition is now generally accepted 
as the best. Others derive it from Ah-Iue-oo-ha, "The Drowsy Ones." Shea says that 
Ajaiua meant "Across," and was applied by the Algonquins to the tribe beyond the Miss- 
issippi River. Another account says that the word signifies "Gray Snow," because the 
Iowa tribe separated from its parent tribe, the Omahas, during a winter storm, when the 
white snow was mingling with the gray sands of the shore. Iowa is often called The 

Hawkeye State. The name first appeared in James 
G. Y.dwa.rds's Fort-Madison Patriot, of March 24, 1838 : 
"If the division of the Territory is effected, we pro- 
pose that the lowans take the cognomen of ' Hawkeye.' 
Our etymology can then be more definitely traced than 
that of the Wolverines, Suckers, Gophers, etc., and we 
rescue from oblivion a memento, at least, of the name 
of the old chief. Black Hawk." Mr. Edwards moved 
his office to Burlington, and founded \.\\e. Hawktye news- 
paper, now one of the most influential in the West. 
The Arms of Iowa show a sheaf and a field of 
standing wheat, with a sickle and other farming utensils ; on the left side, near the bottom, 
a lead-furnace and a pile of pig-lead ; on the right side, the citizen-soldier, starMing before 
a plough, supporting the American flag and liberty-cap with his right hand and a gun with 
his left. The Mississippi River is in the back-ground, with the steamer Iowa under way. 
An eagle appears above, holding in his beak a scroll, with the following inscription : "Our 
liberties we prize, and our rights we will maintain." This device was adopted in 1847. The 
Secretary of Iowa wrote to Admiral Preble : "This State has no State flag other than the 
Stars and Stripes, a large interest in which she claims." 

The Governors of Iowa have been: Territorial — Robert Lucas, 1838-41 ; John 
Chambers, 1841-5 ; James Clark, 1845-6. State — Ansel Briggs, 1846-50; Stephen Hemp- 
stead, 1850-4; James W. Grimes, 1854-8; Ralph P. Lowe, 1858-60; Samuel J. Kirk- 
wood, 1860-4 and 1876; William M. Stone, 1 864-8 ; Samuel Merfill, 1868-72; C. C. 
Carpenter, 1872-6 ; Joshua G. Newbold (acting), 1876-8 ; John H. Gear, 1878-82 : Buren 
R. Sherman, 1882-6; William Larrabee, 1886-90; Horace Boies, 1890-4. 

Descriptive. — Iowa is in the great 
prairie-belt, and between the Mississippi 
and Missouri Rivers, whose water-shed in 
the northwest, the Plateau du Coteau des 
Prairies, is 800 feet high, falling away to 
the southeast, with short and rapid streams, 
the Chariton (250 miles long), Nodaway 
(200), Grand (300), Nishnabotna (220), 
Little Sioux (300), and Big Sioux, flowing bluffs of the Mississippi. 




SPIRIT LAKE. 





EAST OKOBOJI LAKE. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

to the Missouri ; and other rivers, the Des Moines 
(550), Skunk (275), Cedar (400), Iowa (375), Wap- 
sipinicon (200), Maquoketa (175), Turkey (160), 
and Upper Iowa (150), running southeast to the 
Mississippi. These watercourses begin in broad and 
shallow valleys, and then flow through bluff-bound 
bottom-lands, in and around which are the chief 
woods in the State. The Missouri at Council Bluffs 
is 198 feet higher than the Des Moines at Des 
Moines, and 425 feet higher than the Mississippi at Davenport. The waters of Iowa abound 
in pike, bass, sturgeon and catfish. 

The Missouri bottoms from Missouri to Sioux City are 150 miles long and from five to 
20 miles wide, and of unwearying fertility. The valley of the Upper Iowa is narrow and 
picturesque, and bordered by bluffs 300 feet high. The scenery along the Mississippi is 
of great beauty, with bold bluffs and headlands all the way from Keokuk to Dubuque 
and the Minnesota line. The deep blue of the mighty river contrasts effectively with- the 
limestone cliffs and verdant hills. Above Davenport the stream attains 
in high water a width of two miles, with countless sandy and wooded 
islands adorning its placid surface. Above Dubuque the bluffs attain 
noble proportions, and show stratifications like masonry, so that they 
simulate Cyclopean walls of sheer white rock. At other 
points, the shores are roofed with green, and resemble 
the broad downs of England. 

The chief national work in Iowa is the canal around 
the Des-Moines Rapids, w^^ere the Mississippi falls twenty- 
four feet in twelve miles, ever a rocky bed. At high 
water steamboats may pass up or down 
without difficulty, but at low water the canal 
is used. It is nine miles long, and cost in 
the vicinity of $4,500,000. 

Navigation is possible on some of the 
Iowa rivers, but the interlacing of railroads 
in every direction makes it of little value on 
the minor streams. In the northwest, 1,400 feet above the sea, are scores of beautiful 
crystalline lakes, like those of Minnesota, with gravelly beaches, and varying greatly in size. 
This region affords good hunting and fishing, and is much visited in summer. The favorite 
locality is Spirit Lake, 14 miles around, with heavy forests along the west, and several 
minor lochs on the east, including the beautiful East and West Okoboji lakes, each two 
leagues long, and united by a narrow strait. They are of great depth, and surrounded by 
picturesque hilly and wooded shores, along which nestle summer lodges and cottages and 
large hotels. The name of Spirit Lake is a translation of Minne-wakan, the ancient Sioux 
title. Walled Lake, also in northern Iowa, extends over 2,800 acres with its clear, cold 

waters, hemmed in by a singular dike of stones, 
six feet high and from five to 15 feet wide, around 
which grows a half-mile belt of oaks. The lake 
is higher than the surrounding lowlands. Clear 
Lake and Storm Lake cover several square miles, 
and rest in the open prairie. The former is a 
favorite locality for camp-meetings and Sunday- 
school conventions, and summer-cottages. A sum- 
mer-resort recently opened is Bluff Park, on the high 
bluffs at Montrose, where a magnificent view of the 




SIOUX CITY : CORN PALACES OF 1889 AND 1390. 




MARSHALLTOWN : SOLDIERS' HOME. 



257 




THE STATE OF 10 WA. 

Mississippi can be had, looking north. At this point the .=•- 
river widens out and is dotted with islands. Across the t;" 
river is Nauvoo, once the home of the Mormons. The ::.r: 
Iowa Chautauqua has also met at Colfax, near the famous 
mineral springs, and within view of the golden dome of 
the capitol. 

The Iowa prairies are not flat, but undulating, with 
graceful curves and rounded outlines, and an exhilarating 
jocund air and a wealth of floral beauty. Many of them 
are fringed by shore-like woodlands, with promontories missouri-river valley. 

and islets of dark forest thrown into the delicate green of the plain. Less than one per 
cent, of this great State, nearly as large as Ireland and Scotland together, is unadapted to 
agriculture. There are neither swamps, deserts nor mountains. 

Most of Iowa is covered with a heavy dark drift loam, over a foot deep, and of marvel- 
ous richness, the choicest part of the State being the parallel valleys of the Des Moines 
and Iowa. The northern lands are of less value. The bluffs of the west are of yellow 
siliceous deposits, immensely deep and very fertile, with unusually picturesque outlines. 
The tireless fertility of the prairies is partly due to the old Indian custom of burning them 
over every autumn. In the course of centuries the soil became almost a bed of wood ashes. 
The great frontier rivers are bordered by bottoms from one to ten miles 
wide, hemmed in by bluffs ; and in the north oak-crowned mounds and 
hills rise over the rolling grassy plains. Above the bluffs the undulating 
table-lands extend for vast distances, natural meadows of unrivalled beauty, 
covered with coarse but nutritious grasses, and adorned with roses, jessa- 
mines, violets, and other wild flowers. Here and there occur pleasant groves 
and hazel-thickets, giving an agreeable diversity to the peaceful scene. 
The western part has less woodland than the east, but much progress has 
been made in tree-planting all over the State. The timber product is 
valued at $3,000,000 a year, and has in the past included vast quantities 
of black walnut. The geological history of Iowa records a long-past time 
when it was part of a lake 500 miles across, traversed by the Missouri. After unnumbered 
ages its muddy bed was upheaved, and now forms the prairies, its fine siliceous powder 
enriched by vegetable remains. 

Farming. — Small grains and vegetables abound all over the State. Corn flourishes 
in the south and along the valleys, especially of the Nishnabotna and Nodaway ; wheat, in 
the Cedar-River country ; and vegetables on Muscatine Island. The blue-grass region of 
the southwest and the wild prairies export vast quantities of baled hay, and support some of 
the best American live-stock, with large dairy products, horse-farms, and abundant fruits. 
It is a lovely pastoral country, dotted all over with pleasant villages and hamlets, and 
abounding in crystalline streams. Johnson and Muscatine counties are famous for their 
great herds; and the Mus- 
catine watermelons have 
a wide reputation. More 
than half the inhabitants 
of Iowa are farmers, and 
the results of their labors 
exceed .$365,000,000 
yearly. The crop of corn 
has reached 322,000,000 
bushels in a year ; of 
wheat, 37,000,000 ; of 
oats, 80,000,000 J of rye, independence: hospital for insane. 




MORMON MONUMENT 
AT MT. PISGAH. 







../ 



258 KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 

2,000,000; of barley, 5,000,000; of potatoes, 20,000,000. Over $3,000,000 worth of fruit 
has also been raised in a year. In Iowa corn is king, and is glorified in the great Corn Palace 
at Sioux City, an immense castellated structure built yearly, and covered outside and decor- 
ated inside with corn. Iowa produces more corn than any other State, having passed Illinois 
and Missouri by many million bushels. The canneries of Iowa put up yearly more than 
7,000,000 cans of corn and 1,500,000 of tomatoes, besides other food-products. The produc- 
tion of hay, for a year, has exceeded 7,000,000 tons (two thirds timothy, and the rest prairie- 
grass), with 200,000 bushels of seed, the entire product standing at $33,500,000. The Blue- 
Grass Palace at Creston annually typifies this industry. These vast crops are produced in spite 
of the occasional visits of myriads of locusts and other winged or crawling destroyers (now 
less numerous than formerly), and of the multiplication of thievish English sparrows. The 
damage wrought to the crops of Iowa by chinch-bugs has reached $20,000,000 in a single 
year (1887). Iowa is the foremost State in producing swine, with 4,200,000 head, valued 
at $28,000,000, and including many Chester- Whites, Poland-Chinas, and Berkshires. It is 
the second State for milch cows (1,200,000), and other cattle (2,100,000), with thousands 
of short-horns, Herefords, Polled-Anguses and Jerseys, the whole valued at $80,000,000. 
In horses it stands third, with over 1,000,000 head, worth $74,000,000, and including several 
thousand pedigreed draft-animals, Percherons and Clydesdales. The trotting stock of north- 
eastern Iowa has a wide fame. Sheep-raising has fallen off very much, partly on account of 
the ravages of dogs. There were 1,500,000 sheep 
in 1867, but 20 years later these had been reduced 
to 270,000. The amazing richness of the deep 
alluvial prairies of the Missouri Valley in Iowa 
is especially manifested in the successful growing 
of corn and live-stock. Broad areas of Iowa, Wis- 
consin, Wyoming, Utah, Minnesota, Nebraska, and 
the Dakotas find at Sioux City their great packing 
centre, where their cattle and hogs are slaughtered 
and dressed for consumption. The investment in 
this packing plant 'exceeds $3,000,000, and the 
total value of its yearly product is $30,000,000. The immediate cause and direct strength 
of these packing houses is the Union Stock-Yards, covering 250 acres, with every possible 
accommodation for receiving and feeding live-stock. Over a million head reach these yards 
yearly, and they are mainly of high grade, yielding dressed products of great excellence. 
Already through the intervention of this establishment Sioux City has won the rank of the 
fourth pork-packing centre of the world, and its investments in this industry are increased 
yearly. The Union Stock-Yards Company of Sioux City has a capital of $2,500,000, and it 
has been regarded as a successful enterprise from the start. 

Iowa is the second State in the production of butter (52,000,000 pounds), and fourth in 
cheese (1,500,000 pounds) ; their aggregate (with milk) reaching $15,000,000. The poul- 
try and eggs mount up to $5,000,000 yearly, and are sent all over the Northwest. 

The Climate is very healthful. The 
winter seasons are severe but equable, 
with almost continuous north and north- 
west winds sweeping across the prairies. 
In summer the constant west and south 
^^^^fe g^^ ' ^F^^ fg^gl^^^^ winds impart a fresh life to the air, 
^S"^' -'^^^S^^^i^^^^P so that, though the heat is greater than 
"''""'^"^^" ^ ~' in New England, its effects are less op- 

pressive. The autumns are clear, warm 
and dry ; and the perfume of the prairie 
SIOUX CITY ; UNION STOCK-YARDS. fircs thcu overhangs some of the rural 




h--&''^-frte^w,rt^ 






COUNCIL BLUFFS : CHAUTAUQUA UNIVERSITY. 




THE STATE OF IOWA. 



259 



CEDAR RAPIDS : MASONIC LIBRARY. 



counties. The singular purity and dryness of the air makes Iowa a sanitarium for people 
suffering from lung-diseases. 

Minerals.— There are 20,000 square miles of bituminous coal deposits, which arc worked 
at Des Moine's, Centreville, Ottumwa, What Cheer, Oskaloosa, Moingona, . 

Fort Dodge and elsewhere. It is a fat and close-burning coal, with much |y 

water. The 400 mines employ 12, 500 men, producing yearly from 3, 500,000 J\ 
to 4,000,000 tons of coal. The coal-measures extend across all the _ t^ ^^ ^,^ 

southern counties up to the middle of the State, but the most valu- ^ s |l|^;^;^j.:i 

able mining region is the Des-Moines Valley, from Keokuk to 
Fort Dodge. The veins are from three to eight feet thick, and 
within 100 feet of the surface. The Coal Palace at Ottumwa 
typifies this industry. Northern Iowa contains 30,000 acres of 
peat-bogs, in beds from four to ten feet deep, and of excellent 
quality. In the northeast great quantities of lead and zinc are 
found, in pockets in the limestone. At one time f 1,000,000 
worth of lead was shipped yearly from Dubuque, but this industry is now nearly quiescent. 
Iron has been found in small deposits. Iowa also produces coral limestone, dolomite, sand- 
stone, and other valuable building stones, in great quantities. Iowa marble was chosen for 
the entrance-hall to the Boston Public Library. Large quantities of lime are made 
at Fort Dodge, Springvale and Mitchell. The gray gypsum of Fort Dodge covers 18 square 

miles, with a thickness of 25 feet. The potters' clay 
and fire-clay of Iowa give material for scores of large 
potteries and brick-yards. The State has 128 quar- 
ries, employing 2,000 men. 

Government. — The Governor and executive 
officers are elected by the people for two years. The 
General Assembly meets biennially, and includes 50 
senators and 100 representatives. The Supreme 
Court has five justices, elected by the people for six 

„ ._ years. The State Capitol, dedicated in 1884, cost 

nearly $3 000 000. It has a foundation of Iowa boulders, upon which rises a si^perstruc- 
ture of yellow and gray Missouri stone, covered by a dome 295 feet high, over a grand 
rotunda It is enriched by colored marbles, frescoes and carved mahogany. 

The State penitentiaries are at Fort Madison (330 convicts) and Anamosa (260). Ihe 
Iowa Industrial School, with 109 girls at Mitchellville and 367 boys at Eldora, removes 
children from vicious surroundings, and places them under proper instruction and discipline. 
Iowa has hospitals for the insane, on large farms, at Independence (700 inmates). Mount 
Pleasant (760), and Clarinda ; and her insane convicts are incarcerated at Anamosa. The 
Institution for Feeble-Minded Children at Glenwood has over 400 in- 

' ■ College for the Blind at Vinton includes primary, 

and high-school courses, and has 180 students. 
The Industrial Home for the Adult Blind is an 
efficient charity at Knoxville. The Institution for 
the Deaf and Dumb at Council Bluffs has 400 
patients, and is carefully administrated. 

The Soldiers' Home at IMarshalltown, opened in 
1887, has 274 inmates, and the Soldiers' Orphans' Home 
at Davenport shelters 300 children. 

Education in its common schools costs Iowa nearly 

,,000,000 yearly, most of which comes from local 

taxes. The permanent fund is nearly $4,000,000. The 

school property is valued at over $12,000,000. There 




GRINNELL : IOWA COLLEGE. 







AMES: IOWA AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LUTHER COLLEGE. 



are 25,000 teachers, four fifths of them women. Educational matters are the especial pride 
of Iowa citizens, and the utmost care is given to the preservation and up-building of the 
public schools. Standing as she does in advance of her sister States, with respect to the least 
degree of illiteracy among her citizens, it is not strange that 
the fertile prairies and beautiful towns and cities of Iowa 
are abundantly supplied with well-kept school-houses, nor- 
mal schools and colleges, and well-trained and thorough 
instructors afford ample opportunities for higher instruction. 
"A school-house on every hilltop " is an adage which all 
Iowa proudly recites as representing the condition of the 
State's public-school system. 

The State Normal School at Cedar Falls has 540 stu- 
dents ; and there are private normal schools at Davenport, 
Des Moines and Dexter, and other places. The University of Iowa was nominally founded 
in 1847, ^n^i opened in 1855, moving two years later into the old State Capitol. After a 
suspension, the University recommenced in i860, with 172 students, and now has a yearly 
income of $44,000 (outside of tuitions). Orphans of Iowa soldiers and two students from 
each county are taught free. The main building is the handsome old State Capitol, of cream- 
colored limestone, with a dome overlooking many leagues of rolling prairie and the Iowa 
valley. The campus occupies ten acres of oak-groves and openings, on a high ridge. The 
University has nine departments : The college, classical, scientific and engincerimg courses ; 
the law school, founded in 1868; the medical school, 1870; and homeopathic, dental and 
pharmaceutical schools. It is co-educational, and has 2,500 graduates. The Iowa Agri- 
cultural College, near Ames, was founded in 1869, with the Congressional land-grant, and 
has 27 instructors and 300 students (including 80 girls). It owns a domain of 900 acres, and 
costly and well-equipped buildings, but grievous internal dissensions long retarded its de- 
velopment. Iowa College was opened in 1848, on the New-England plan, its founders being 
mainly ministers from the East. It moved from Davenport to Grinnell in i860, and then 
admitted women to its varied courses. The central position, healthy location, and strong 
religious influences of Iowa College have won popular favor. There are 540 students en- 
rolled, more than half of whom are in the academy and the conservatory of music. Tabor 
College was founded in 1857 by the Congregationalists. Lenox College is a Presbyterian 
institution at Hopkinton, and so is Parsons College at Fairfield, and Coe College, a pros- 
perous institute, at Cedar Rapids. The Luther College at Decorah is the largest Norwegian 
school in the Union. Griswold College was founded by Bishop Perry, at Davenport, over- 
looking the Mississippi. 

University of Des Moines (1866), the Central University of Iowa (founded 
in 1853), and Burlington University (1853), arc small Baptist institutions. The 
Methodists control Upper Iowa University, founded at Fayette 
in 1857 ; Iowa Wesleyan University, founded at Mount Pleas- 
ant in 1852 ; Simpson College, founded at Indianola in 1861 ; 
and Cornell College, founded at Mount Vernon in 1857. The 
Christians own Drake University, at Des Moines. The Friends 
conduct Whittier College, founded at Salem in 1867, and Penn 
College, at Oskaloosa. 

The Manufactures of Iowa show yearly products valued 
at .$70,000,000. Along the Mississippi extend the great 
saw-mills, of which Iowa has 300, with a yearly product ex- 
ceeding $6,000,000. Clinton possesses one of the largest saw-mills in the world, capable 
of sawing 60,000 feet of lumber an hour. There are flour-mills, with a yearly product of 
$20,000,000; meat-packing establishments, yielding $11,000,000 yearly; and manu- 
factories of agricultural implements, wagons, furniture, woolen goods, and boots and shoes. 



The 
at Pella 




DES MOINES : POST-OFFICE. 



THE STATE OE IOWA. 



The Railroads of Iowa make her map appear like an intricate lace-work. The five 
great lines of the Chicago, Burlington & guincy ; the Chicago, Rock-Island & Pacific ; the 
Chicago & Northwestern ; the Illinois Central (Iowa Division) ; and the Chicago, Milwaukee 
cioss it from east to west, and are intersected by several north and 
the Central Iowa, Minnesota & St. -Louis, Sioux-City & Pacific, 
( I. dai -Rapids & Northern, and Chicago, St. -Paul & Kansas-City, 
whole State was at one time covered by railway land-grants. 

Chief Cities. — Des Moines, the capital of Iowa, occupies 

the site of the old Fort Des Moines, a United-States garrison 

id then the remotest outpost on the north - 

k'ely valley of the corn and blue-grass belt. 



& St Paul 
south lines, 
Builington, 
Almost the 



'1 li -v the site ot the old Foi 

/^£^\ iffPn/sA. ''''''^ f'-ontier), in a love 



't Jn^t 






SIOUX city: first congregational church. 



guarded by sloping hills and rich in coal-mines. Among 
its products are wire-fencing, carriages, pork, and cotton 
and woolen goods. It is one of the leading railroad cen- 
tres of the country, and has a large jobbing-trade. Fort 
Dodge was founded in 1850, by veteran troops of the 
Florida wars, to check the hostile Sacs and Foxes, and garrisoned until 1853. 

Keokuk, "the Gate City," has a pleasant site on a high bluff, in a long curve of the 
Mississippi, at the foot of the Lower Rapids. In 1840, there were a dozen huts here, 
surrounded by a deep forest, where seven railways now converge, in a 
city of iron-foundries and meat-packing houses. Fort Madison was 
built in 1 80S, and several times attacked by the Indians. It is now a 
busy shipping-port. 

Burlington, a pleasant city in "the garelen of Iowa," dates from 
1S33, and was named for a Vermont town. It has 
a large volume and great variety of manufactures. 
There are ten lines of railway converging here. 
Davenport is a thriving city on the bluffs opposite 
Rock Island, with a costly bridge across the Missis- 
sippi. It is the centre of an important onion-raising 
district, and has a large jobbing trade. 

Dubuque is an active city on the Mississippi, 
with the terminals of five railroads, a business of 
$40,000,000 yearly, large grain and lumber trades, 
and works where steel steamboats are made. It 
occupies a plateau nearly surrounded by high bluffs. 

Muscatine crowns the bluffs in a great westerly bend council bluffs : court-house. 
of the Mississippi, and rejoices in large lumber and meat-packing industries. 

I ing from the Mississippi to the Missouri, another tier of cities comes 
' Council Bluffs lies not far from the old meeting-point of the Indian tribes ; 
and here the Mormons tarried from 1846 to 1849, while on their 
L^ way to Utah. For many years it was the last village in civilized 

America, and here California emigrants and trappers procured 
their outfits before entering the Indian country. It lies across 
the Missouri from Omaha (Neb). Six railways running west 
from Chicago here meet the Union Pacific line, and others 
diverge to the north and south. The city has fine public build- 
ings, newspapers, stock-yards and elevators, and a wholesale 
trade of $33,000,000 a year, covering a wide area of the Mis- 
souri Valley. 

Sioux City, a flourishing manufacturing and railroad centre, 
davenport: scott-co. court-house. ^'■"1 withal a lovely city of homes, was laid out in iSS4 at the 





262 



KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SIOUX CITY ; SIOUX NATIONAL BANK. 



bend of the Missouri, and covers a wide area of rich 
farming country with its commerce. It has extensive 
meat-packing works and manufactories, including one 
of the largest flaxseed-oil mills, using 2,ocx) car-loads 
of flaxseed yearly. Over 25,000,000 bricks are made 
here yearly, and vast quantities of stoneware. During 
1887 the territory tributary to Sioux City was 57 days 
without rain, and yet the average yield of corn to 
the acre was 76 bushels. This wonderful condition, 
illustrative of the resistance of the Iowa soil to drouth, 
created the thought of some festival commemorative 
of such condition, and the corn palace of 1887 was 
erected, followed by others in 1888, 1889 and 1890, the centre of the great harvest festivals 
of the northwest. Sioux City shows intense activity in building, in development of every 
character, and in new manufactories. 

Cedar Rapids has a large water-power on the Cedar River, with machinery and 
carriage-factories, great oat-meal mills, pork-packing establishments, and 25 wholesale 
trading-houses at the crossing of several railroads, and in a rich dairy country. It has the 
only Masonic Library Building in the West, and the largest 
Masonic library in the world. Among other important towns 
are Ottumwa, Clinton, Marshalltown, Creston and Waterloo. 

Finances. — The peculiarly advantageous situation of Sioux 
City, in the heart of the best corn-growing region of America, 
and the unusual enterprise of its citizens and mercantile com- 
panies, have contributed toward making the rising metropolis an 
important financial centre. The volume of banking business is 
so great that it has been found necessary to organize a clearing- 
house, whose transactions already surpass those of any other 
Iowa city. The foremost of the financial institutions is the 
Sioux National Bank, the largest national bank not only in 
Sioux City but in the whole State of Iowa. It has already re- 
sources of over $1,800,000, and has declared a full score of 
good dividends, and its business is incessantly increasing. Ever 
since its foundation, the Sioux National Bank has been a valu- 
able help to the undertakings which have been springing up around it, and has advanced 
its own cause and the general interests of the city with wisdom and foresight. 

Already the exceptional energy and activity of this northwestern metropolis of Sioux 
City have accumulated here a large capital for banking and investment ; and in order to regu- 




SIOUX CITY : UNION LOAN 
AND TRUST CO. 



late and safely 
pany was found- 
cash capital of 




SIOUX CITY : Y. M. C. A. BUILDING, 



place these great sums of money the Union Loan and Trust Com- 
ed at Sioux City, in 1885. This corporation has. a paid-up 
^1,000,000, and resources of $2,000,000; and has paid semi- 
annual dividends of five per cent, ever since its organiza- 
tion, never having lost a dollar by bad debts. Its net 
earnings are about $200,000 a year. The Union Loan 
and Trust Company handles a large amount of commercial 
paper, and municipal, corporation and school bonds ; and 
receives funds for investment, paying interest on the same 
until invested. Under skilful and conservative manage- 
ment, with George L. Joy as president, this institution has 
jg jjdi L become a well-recognized financial power in the rich and 
fast-developing country tributary to Sioux City, and has 
an honorable past, and a promising future. 





STATISTICS. 

Settled at . . Fort Leavenworth. 

Settled in iSco 

Founded by . Western Americans. 
Admitted as a State, . . 1861 

Population in i860, . . . 107,206 

In 1870, 364, 3gQ 

In 1880, 996,096 

White, 952,155 

Colored, 43,941 

American-born, . . . 886,010 
Foreign-born, ... 110,086 

Males, 536,667 

Females 459,429 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), 1,427,096 
Population to the square mile. 12.2 



265,714 
182.904 
103,745 



1,000,000 

82,080 

8 

1,859 



HISTORY. 

Deep in the inmost heart 
of America, the virgin prai- 
ries of Kansas lay fallow for 
centuries, haunted by a few 
roving bands of wild In- 
dians and traversed by in- 
numerable herds of buffalo. 
As early as 1 541, however, 
Francisco Vasquez de Coro- 
nadu cuiiuuanded a Spanish expedition which marched from 
Mexico to the northern boundary of Kansas, in search of 
gold and silver. The route of Coronado was through the 
counties of Barber, Kingman, Reno, Harvey, McPherson, 
Marion, Dickinson, Geary, Riley, Pottawatomie, and Ne- 
maha — a due northeast line. Coronado says he traversed 
"mighty plains and sandy heaths, smooth and wearisome, 
and bare of wood. All that way the plains are as full of 
crooked-backed oxen as the mountain Serena in Spain is of 
sheep." This is the first authentic account of the buffalo. 
The French fur-traders from Louisiana and Canada estab- 
lished a station in Kansas, as early as 1705, and thencefor- 
ward for nearly a century these gallant chevaliers held little 
commercial posts within the prairie regions. After DuTis- 
senet explored the Missouri Valley, in 1 719, for France, 
the Spaniards at Santa Fe sent an expedition across the 
Plains to seize upon the country in advance. Encamping 
at Leavenworth, they endeavored to ally themselves with 
the Missourias, then at war with the Pawnees, but 2,000 
painted warriors fell upon them in the night, and massa- 
cred every man, except a tonsured priest, who was re- 
leased and sent back to Santa Fe. The greater part of 
Kansas came to the United States by the Louisiana Pur- 
chase. The southwestern corner was included in the Re- 
public of Texas. So part of the State came from France, 
and part from Spain. Kansas Territory when first organized included that part of Colorado 
east of the crest of the Rocky Mountains. Among the first Americans to visit this region 
were the expeditionary forces of Lewis and Clarke, in 1804, and Major Long, in 1819. The 



Voting Population 
Vote for Harrison (18 
Vote for Cleveland (1 
Net State Debt, . . 
Assessed Valuation of 
Property (1890), . . 
Area (square miles), . 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 
Militia (disciplined), . . . 

Counties, iii 

Post-offices 1,799 

Railroads (miles) 8,806 

Manufactures (yearly), . $30,790,212 

Operatives 12,064 

Yearly Wages, . . . §3,999,599 
Farm Land (in acres), . 21,454,476 
Farm-Land Values, §235,178,936 
Farm Products (yearly), $52,240,361 
Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 244,697 

Newspapers, 765 

Latitude, 37° to 40° N. 

Longitude, . . 94°35' to 102° W. 
Temperature, . . . — 29° to 108° 
Mean Temperature (Leaven- 
worth), 50° 



TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Kansas Citj-, 38,316 

Topeka, 31,007 

Wichita, 23,853 

Leavenworth 19,768 

Atchison 13,963 

Fort Scott, 11,946 

Lawrence, . 9,997 

Hutchinson, 8,682 

Arkansas City 8,347 

Emporia, 7,551 




LEAVENWORTH ! 
STATUE OF GRANT. 



264 A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES, 

overland trade on the Santa-Fe trail began in 1823, and the outward-bound traders rendez- 
voused at Council Grove, until trains were made up strong enough to beat off the Indians 
on the perilous route of 800 miles. The caravan of i860 contained 6,000 men and 2,000 
wagons. A fort was erected on the Missouri to protect this trade, in 1827, 
and received the name of Col. Leavenworth, of the Third United-States 
Infantry, then in garrison. This became an important point during the 
Mexican War and the Californian and Mormon migrations. The troops 
led to the conquest of New Mexico marched hence across the Kansas 
prairies; and in 1849-50 90,000 Argonauts moved westward toward Cali- 
fornia, bidding farewell to civilization at Fort Leavenworth. 

The Missouri Compromise of 1820 provided that the part of the Louisi- 
ana Purchase lying north of 36° 30" (Missouri being excepted) should be 
exempt from human slavery forever. Arkansas came into the Union as a 
slave State, and Iowa as a free State, under this agreement. But -when 
the question of Kansas arose, a bitter struggle set in between the anti-slavery and pro- 
slavery parties in Congress and in the Territory. The Kansas-Nebraska Act of 1854 re- 
pealed the condition about slavery, and left it for each commonwealth to settle for itself 
whether its soil should be free or slave. Two great hostile tides of immigration began to 
flow into the disputed territory, one composed of Pro-Slavery men from Missouri and the 
South, and the other of Free-Soil colonists from New England 
and the Middle States. For a time it was not possible for the 
latter to pass across Pro-Slavery Missouri, and so "Lane's 
Trail" was formed through Iowa and Nebraska ; and over this 
circuitous route thousands of Free-State men poured into 
Kansas. A terrible civil war ensued, lasting for several years, 
and the new country was ravaged by Jayhawkers, Kickapoo 
Rangers, Blue Lodges, Regulators and other armed bands. 
Lawrence, Osawatomie and other towns were sacked ; hundreds 
of men were killed in battle, or assassinated ; armies of thou- 
sands, with artillery, moved up and down the country ; and 
"Bleeding Kansas " aroused the pity d the world. Eli Thayer, 
Amos A. Lawrence and others formed the New-England Emi- 
grant-Aid Society, with $1,000,000 capital, and sent out many fearless volunteers, armed 
with Sharp's rifles. The Pro- Slavery party under Atchison and Lecompte held their quar- 
ters at Atchison and Leavenworth ; the Freedom party, under John Brown, Conway, Lane 
and Robinson, centered around Lawrence and Topeka. The convention at Wyandotte, in 
1S59, produced a constitution forbidding slavery, and the people voted for it, 10,421 to 5,530, 
thus settling forever the vexed question which had caused so much sorrow and bloodshed. 

Kansas furnished to the United-States army nearly one sixth of her population, in 17 
regiments (largely of cavalry), and three batteries. The State sent into the field 20,097 
men, being 3,433 above her quota. Already exhausted by a decade of conflicts, Kansas 
suffered new perils and losses, especially along the southeastern frontier, 
not only from the operations of organized troops, but also, and chiefly, from 
the desultory attacks of guerilla bands, which showed no mercy 
to either side. The destruction of the unarmed town of Lawrence 
was one of the most terrible episodes of the civil war. 

The settlers of Kansas were the bravest men from 
North and South, coming hither to fight for the hostile 
principles of Free Soil and Slavery. When the ten 
years' war had ceased, these tried veterans turned their 
energies to the material development of the State, exploring, exploiting and cultivating 
everywhere. In 30 years the population increased twenty-fold. 




WICHITA ; COURT-HOUSE. 




TOPEKA ; GRACE CHURCH CATHEDRAL. 







WICHITA ; FAIRMOUNT COLLEGE. 



THE STATE OF KANSAS. 265 

The Name of the State is an Indian word. The Bureau of Ethnology says that Kan- 
sas is a Siouan word, which has been used : 1st, as a tribal name ; 2d, as the name of a 
Kansa gens, part of which are real Wind people ; 3d, as the name of an Omaha gens, Wind 

people. The 
thus apoears 
a certain south- 



people ; and 4th, as an Osage gens. Wind people, and South-Wind 
name also appears in personal names, meaning eagle or wind. It 
that the word has reference to wind, and may apply specifically to 
wind well-known locally. In the old days Kansas was 
known as The Jayhawker State. One autumn, in 1856, 
Pat Devlin, a Free-State Irishman, rode into Osawatomie. 
"Have you been foraging, Pat?" "Yes, I've been out 
jayhawking. We have a bird in Ireland we call the jay- 
hawk ; it worries its prey before devouring it." In 1861, 
Col. Jennison called his rough-riding soldiers "Jayhawk- 
ers, " and the name soon came to be applied to all Kansans. 
Kansas is known as The Sunflower State, on account of the abundance and luxuriance 
of these flowers, which are native to her prairies. 

The Arms of Kansas represent a prairie landscape, with buffalo pursued by Indian hun- 
ters, a settler's cabin, a river with a steamboat, and a cluster of 34 stars. The motto is 
Ad Astra Per Aspera, "To the Stars through Difficulties," alluding to the troubles that 
Kansas endured while endeavoring to become a State. 

The Governors of Kansas have been : Territorial : Andrew 
H. Reeder, 1854-5; Wilson Shannon, 1855-6; John W. Geary, 
1856-7; Robert J. Walker, 1857-8; Jas. W. Denver, 1858; 
Samuel Medary, 1858-60; Geo. M. Beebe, 1860-1. State : 0X^2.%. 
Robinson, 1861 ; Thos. Carney, 1861-4; S. J. Crawford, 1864-9; 
James M. Harvey, 1869-73 ; Thos. A. Osborne, 1873-7 5 George 
T. Anthony, 1877-9; John P. St. John, 1879-83; Geo. W. 
Glick, 1883-5 ; John A. Martin, 1885-9 ; and Lyman U. Hum- 
^^phrey, 1889-93. 

Descriptive. — Kansas is the central State of the American 
Union, the eighth in area, 'and the second in extent of arable 
soil. It is considerably larger than all New England ; twice as 
large as Ohio ; and about equal to Great Britain. Its length is 408 miles ; and its breadth 
208 miles. Kansas is midway between the Atlantic and the Pacific, and between Manitoba 
and the Gulf of Mexico. Its vast undulating plain rises from the south to the north, and 
from 750 feet above the sea, on the east, to 4,000 feet high on the northwestern frontier. This 
great inclined prairie is dotted with woodlands, and indented by the broken valleys of hun- 
dreds of streams. From the billowy bluffs the view includes rolling prairies, grassy hills, 
and lines of trees fringing the hidden rivers. The prairie forms a succession of long rolls, 
or waves, from 1,000 to 5,000 feet from crest to crest, and from 25 to 80 feet 
intervening valleys, usually resting in a bath of brightness, with the rich deep 
of the blue-black earth, the tender green of the wheat-fields, and the in- 
ruffled ultramarine of the sky. The soil is free from stones, very fertil 
of cultivation. In the southwest there is a tract of sandhills, loO 
miles long and three miles wide, once shunned by every one, but 
recently developed as grazing territory. The Flint Hills lie east 
of Wichita ; the Gypsum Hills, west of Medicine Lodge ; and the 
Blue Hills, between the Solomon and the Saline. The Gypsum 
I lills form a long-drawn region of red clays and rocks, cut into ^'^^'^ ""-ey : ogden monument, 
singular cliffs and spires, and capped with a thick layer of gyp- ''"' "'''''' °' ^"^ "'"°'- 
sum. The plains are diversified by a few natural curiosities, like Monument Rocks, Castle 
Rock, Medicine Peak and the Twin Buttes, in the northwest ; the Rock City, Perforated 




WICHITA : CITY HALL. 



K 




above the 
coloring 
tense un- 
and easy 






266 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




THE GYPSUM HILLS. 



Rock, Pulpit Rock, and Table Rock, in the centre ; the pic- 
turesque Pilot Knob, near Leavenworth, and the mounds 
along the Marmaton and the Verdigris. The centre and 
north are traversed by the Kansas River (400 miles long), 
formed by the confluence of the Smoky-Hill and the Repub- 
lican, each with its net-work of creeks. The Smoky-Hill 
flows from Colorado as a little sandy arroyo, gaining in 
power as it moves eastward, under green and yellow shaly 
banks and hills of white and buff limestone, and through pin- 
nacles of Dakota sandstone. On the plains of Saline County 
it receives the Saline (200 miles long), and the Solomon (250 miles), flowing from their sharp 
little canons in the northwest, between low cliffs of blue and orange shale and chalk. The 
Republican River runs from Colorado around through Nebraska, having a course of 400 
miles. The Big Blue runs 125 miles from its Nebraska fountains to the Kansas River, around 
the rocky hills at Manhattan. The Missouri forms the eastern frontier for 150 miles, some- 
times half a mile across, and again narrowing to a thousand feet, and everywhere navigable. 
The Arkansas River flows for 440 miles through the State, with a sandy bottom and many 
islands, a shallow reddish-colored stream, between low and bare banks. The rivers have a 
fall of but l\ feet to the mile. This easy grade affords facilities for artificial irrigation, 
which are availed of in the west and southwest. The Cimarron waters much of southwest- 
ern Kansas ; and the Verdigris, Neosho and Marais-des-Cygnes and their myriad tributaries 
water the southeast and east. Steam- 
boats have ascended the Arkansas River 
into Kansas, and the Kansas River to 
Junction City, on the Smoky-Hill Fork, 
but, strictly speaking, none of the streams, 
except the Missouri, is navigable. 

Since 1883 the western counties, once 
regarded as unavailable for farming, and 
used only by the stock-raisers, have been 
occupied by many homesteaders. The 
vast herds of buffalo that formerly traversed these high and treeless plains have vanished. 
A herd of 50 buffalo is kept on a ranche, near Garden City. The United- States Experiment 
Station at Garden City has shown that by pulverizing the soil, and covering it at first with 
matted wheat-straw, crops can be raised without irrigation on these arid lands. 

The Climate is pleasant, in spite of the sudden and extreme changes. The winters are 
mild and dry, although the thermometer sometimes registers extreme cold. The heats of 
summer are moderated by the prairie breezes, and by the almost unfailing coolness of the 
nights. The rapid radiation of heat into a clear and cloudless sky from these elevated plains 
causes a delightful change at nightfall. The high plateau of the western border has a lower 
temperature than eastern Kansas, with a dry, bracing and rarefied air. The winters else- 
where are short, and ploughing is done in November and February. The hot winds of sum- 
mer sometimes bring disaster to the crops. 
North of the long water-shed between the 
Kansas and the Arkansas the climate is 
markedly cooler, and wheat thrives well. 
West of 100° the rainfall is below 20 
inches in a year. 

The Farm-products reach a value 
of $140, 000, 000 a year, and the valuation 

- "" of the farms is above $450,000,000. It 

GARDEN CITY. UNITED-STATES EXPERIMENT STATION, is onc of thc important agricultural Statcs, 




GARDEN CITY : HERD OF BUFFALO. 



i-^vT 




THE STATE OF KANSAS. 



267 




A KANSAS STOCK RANGE 



with its glorious wheat carpets along the uplands 
in June, and the wealth of corn and sorghum 
which August brings. The average yearly corn- 
crop of 1877-8-9 was 88,000,000 bushels, which 
rose in 1884 to 191,000,000, valued at $40,- 
000,000. In 1 888, 5,600,000 acres produced 
169,000,000 bushels, valued at $52,000,000; 
and in 1889, 6,800,000 acres produced 274,- 
000,000 bushels. The wheat-crop rose by 1880 
to 25,000,000 bushels yearly, valued at $21,- 
000,000, and in 1884, to 48,000,000 bushels, falling again below 6,000,000 in the drought 
year of 1887, and then rising once more, to 35,000,000 bushels in 1889. The crops of oats 
in 1877-8-9, averaged 14,000,000 bushels yearly; and in 1888 reached 55,000,000 bushels. 
Potatoes rose from 4,000,000 bushels in 1880, to 1 1,500,000 bushels in 1889. The hay-crop 
includes yearly 2,200,000 tons of prairie-hay, 1,000,000 tons of millet and Hungarian, and 
700,000 tons of tame grasses, valued at .$14,000,000. The prairies also produce buckwheat 
and barley, rye and tobacco, flax and hemp, and sweet and white potatoes. Kansas yields 
40,000,000 pounds of broom-corn yearly, 122,000 bushels of castor-beans, and 645,000 
pounds of cotton. The most reliable crop of southern Kansas is sorghum, for sugar, syrup 
or forage. The State pays a bounty of two cents a pound on this sugar, and the product of 
1889 reached 1,500,000 pounds, besides 5,000,000 gallons of syrup. The chief factories are 
Scott, Topeka, Douglas and Conway Springs. Within a brief period the 
of raising beets for sugar has attained great proportions, and $2,000,000 
is invested in the beet-sugar factories. Kan- 
sas has upwards of 20,000,000 fruit-trees, and 
her peaches, apples, cherries, pears and plums, 
\°\ and small fruits, are famous for their size and 
flavor. The yearly dairy-products include 
30,000,000 pounds of butter, 500,000 pounds 
MANHATTAN : STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE. of checsc, $6oo,ooo worth of milk, and 

$1,800,000 worth of poultry and eggs. Bees are kept on many farms, and store up im- 
mense quantities of honey from Kansas flowers. Forty million acres of Kansas soil are in 
grass, supporting an enormous number of domestic animals, including 750,000 horses, bred 
up with fine Clydesdale and Pcrcheron, Norman and Kentucky stallions ; 100,000 mules, 
highly valued in farming operations ; 800,000 milch-cows, improved by admixtures of Here- 
ford and Galloway, Holstein and Jersey stock ; and 2,000,000 other cattle. 

The live-stock of Kansas is valued at $150,000,000. Horses and cattle show a steady 
increase for 20 years, but sheep have decreased from 1,200,000 in 1884 to 300,000 now (the 
State has 160,000 dogs); and swine have fallen off from 2,000,000 in 1885 to 1,600,000. 
The herdsmen of Kansas are favored by abundant pasturage, copious water, and short win- 
ters. The great stock-yards and packing-houses of Kansas City, Kansas, have built up an 
astonishing business, by which millions of people who rarely eat good meat before are now 







^.^ '^ : 







'^^zftk^^-^ 



^-%"^^f ^ 




KANSAS CiTY . TnE KANSAS-CiTY u...ON STOCKYARDS. 



268 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




EXCHANGE BUILDING ; KANSAS CITY STOCK YARDS. 



supplied plentifully with dressed beef, while 
the canned cooked beef is shipped to the four 
quarters of the globe. During the year 1890, 
1,472,229 cattle, 76,568 calves, 2,865,171 
hogs, 535,869 sheep, and 37,118 horses and 
mules, in 108, 160 cars, were received at these 
stock-yards, and of these animals over 3,000- 
000 were slaughtered, 1,600,000 sold to ship- 
pers, and 320,000 sold to feeders. A small 
part of the yards is in Kansas City, Missouri ; 
but most of their area and their intricate lines 
of railway are in Kansas City, Kansas. There is but one city in the world which surpasses, 
as a live-stock market and meat-packing centre, this metropolis of the Sunflower State. 
Most of the famous Kansas-City packing-houses are in the Kansas part of the town. They 
employ a capital of $8,000,000, and have an annual output of $17,000,000, including 
260,000,000 pounds of bacon and 140,000,000 pounds of fresh beef, and 60,000,000 pounds 
of lard and tallow, canned and mess beef. The Kansas-City Stock-yards were founded in 
1871, and now handle over $75,000,000 worth of live-stock yearly. 

The Geology of Kansas indicates a slow uplifting from under the sea, leaving the 
strata nearly horizontal. The rocks abound in fossils — the mastodon, the elephant, giant 
horses, rhinoceroses, camels, sharks, pterodactyls, crocodiles, redwood trees, palms and huge 

ferns. There are zinc and lead mines in 

Cherokee County (at Galena, or Short Creek), 
with 23 smelters at Pittsburgh (Kansas), the 
second zinc-producing city in the Union. The 
export of these metals exceeds $800,000 a 
year, and has now aggregated $9,000,000. 
The coal-fields cover 17,000 sc,uare miles, 
from the eastern border west to Wichita and 
Beloit, the strata being nearly horizontal and 
without faults. The Cherokee vein, three feet 
thick, and 30 miles long, occurs from the out- 
crop to 120 feet down, and employs the best machinery and methods in the State, in its 
mines at Scammonville, Weir City, Pittsburgh, Frontenac and Litchfield. The Fort-Scott, 
Leavenworth, Pleasanton and La-Cygne mines also produce an excellent coal. Osage and 
Franklin counties have several mining plants. The Kansas coal is bituminous, and nearly 
free from sulphur, and has value for smelting and gas-making. Gas-wells are found in the 
coal country, at Wyandotte, Fort Scott, and Paola, where this fuel is used in manufacturing. 
In western Kansas occur beds of brown lignite, worked from drifts in the hillsides. New 
discoveries of mineral treasures are made from time to time throughout the State, but the 
cereal wealth of the farm-lands will always be the chief source of wealth. 

The smelting-works at Kansas City are among 
the largest in the world, and new extensions of 
their operations are continually going forward, so 
that this locality bids fair to become more and 
more important in this regard, being favorably 
placed centrally between the mines and markets. 
The Consolidated Kansas-City Smelting & Refin- 
ing Company, with a capital of $2,000,000, has its ^"- 
main office at Kansas City (Mo.), and its works at 
Argentine (Kan.), with branch smelters at Lead- 
ville (Col.) and El Paso (Texas). This enormous Arkansas city. 



-,zM. 



A PRAIRIE FARM. 




THE STATE OF KANSAS. 



269 



plant refines gold and sil- 
ver, lead and copper, from 
the ores of all the princi 
pal mining-camps and ore 
markets of the United 
States and Mexico. The 
yearly output of these 
smelting and refining 
works exceeds \ 
United States. 




ARGENTINE CONSOLIDATED KANSAS CITY SMELT NG AND REFINING WORKS 




18,000,000; and furnishes one fifth of all the silver and lead smelted in the 
The Consolidated Company employs over 2,500 men, of whom 400 are at 
Argentine, running eight blast-furnaces in the smelting of ores, and a large number of desil- 
verizing, cupelling and concentrating furnaces, in the refining of the metals. The total num- 
ber of blast furnaces at the three establishments is 21. 

Central Kansas is of the Triassic period, with extensive and easily-worked beds of gray, 
white and cream-colored dolomite, or magnesian limestone, which is sawed and planed with 
ordinary carpenters' tools, and hardens with exposure. This beautiful material has been 
extensively used in Kansas buildings. Gypsum quarries are also found in this region, the 
stone being sometimes compact enough for building material. At Solomon City, salt is 
produced from salt-wells. Beds of rock-salt over 100 feet thick underlie the central coun- 
ties. The works at Hutchinson can produce 5,000 barrels daily, from deposits of rock-salt ; 
fresh water being forced down to the beds, and when saturated being pumped into tanks 
and evap- i orated. Salt is made at other points, being in demand by the pork- 
packers. There are extensive salt-marshes, covered with a 
brilliant white incrustation of salt for thousands of acres ; and 
plains of crystallized salt from six to 30 inches thick are found 
south of the Great Bend of the Arkansas, where broad saline 
ponds have dried up. Forty thousand square miles of west- 
ern Kansas is of the Cretaceous period, with valuable white 
and cream chalk quarries in the bluffs. Hydraulic lime 
and valuable hydraulic cement are found in abundance, with 
beds of pure salt in the southwest, and mines of lignite near 
the Colorado line. Chalk is found in the Smoky-Hill Valley, in a belt over 30 miles. wide 
and nearly 200 feet thick. Wa-Keeney has extensive chalk-works. There are 9,000 square 
miles of Pliocene marl formations in the northwest, overlaying Miocene grit, under which 
occur deep strata of Niobrara and Fort-Benton limestones and Dakota sandstones. In this 
region are found the so-called coralline and colored marbles, and jasper and Kansas agates. 
The Government consists of a governor and executive officers, elected every two years ; 
a biennial legislature of 40 senators and 125 representatives ; and supreme and district courts. 
The Capitol at Topeka will have cost not far from !|i2, 500,000. The eastern wing was built 
in 1866 73 ; and the centre was founded in 1881. It is a classical structure, somewhat in the 
style of the Capitol at Washington. The State Penitentiary, near Leavenworth, has 920 
prisoners. The Industrial Reformatory at Hutchinson has 50 cells. The insane asylums 
at Topeka and Osawatomie contain 1,200 inmates. There are 100 children in the Asylum 
for Idiotic and Imbecile Youth, at Winfield ; 300 in the Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, 
at Olathe ; 90 in the Institution for the Blind, at Kansas City ; 
1 10 in the Soldiers' Orphans' Home ; and 200 in the 
State Reform School, near Topeka. 

Education is one of the foremost interests of 
Kansas, whose school-system is organized with great 
efficiency, and costs $5,000,000 a year. Over 

$9,000,000 is invested in property for schoolhouses. — -"^ -^ '^ ^ ,_^^c."" ".' " "- 

The schooi-fund now amounts to $3,000,000, and lawrence : university of kansas. 



TOPEKA : POST-OFFICE. 




270 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




FORT SCOTT ; OLD BUILDINGS. 



will reach $13,000,000. Four fifths of the school population is enrolled, 
and nearly one half is in average daily attendance. The University of Kan- 
sas, at Lawrence, has departments of science, literature 
and arts (131 students), law (51), music (60), pharmacy 
(42), and art (38), with more than 200 sub-freshmen. 
One third of these are women ; and nine tenths are from 
Kansas. The great Main Building, the North College, 
the Chemistry Building, and the handsome Snow Mali 
of Natural History (of Cottonwood stone), stand on a 
spacious campus on Mount Oread. The library has 
11,000 volumes, and the cabinets 150,000 specimens. 
The University of Lawrence, the forerunner of the State University, was founded in 1859, 
by the Presbyterian Church. The Episcopal Church afterwards endeavored to carry on the 
institution, but, in 1864, the building and campus were secured by the city, for the State 
(a donation by Hon. Charles Robinson); and in 1866 the University of Kansas went into 
operation, endowed by the United States with 46,000 acres of land, the proceeds of whose 
sales are invested by the State. The State Normal School at Emporia has 14 instructors 
and 875 students. The Agricultural College at Manhattan possesses a large experimental 
farm and valuable endowments, and teaches 480 young people. It is a university of indus- 
tries, adding to the usual literary studies, instruction in farming, mechanical work, printing, 
sewing, cooking, dairying, and military drill and tactics. Washburn College, founded at 
Topeka in 1865, has about 50 students, and 190 in the preparatory school. Lane Univer- 
sity, at Lecompton, is an institution of the United Brethren ; 
Ottawa University was founded by the Baptists in 1865 ; Gar- 
field University at Wichita, pertains to the Christian sect, 
and opened in 1887. The College of the Sisters of Bethany, 
at Topeka, is Episcopal. The Catholic colleges are St. Bene- 
dict's (Benedictine), at Atchison ; St. Mary's ; and St. 
Joseph's at Abilene. The Presbyterians conduct Highland 
University and the College of Emporia. The Methodists 
have Baker University, at Baldwin City ; the Kansas Wesleyan University, at Salina ; and 
a collegiate i.^stitution at Winfield. 

The Free Public Library at Topeka has 10,000 volumes, in a handsome building; and 
the same city also has the great library of the Kansas Historical Society, of 40,000 volumes, 
and the State Library, of 28,000 volumes. 

The National Institutions in Kansas are of much importance and interest. Old Fort 
Leavenworth, the headquarters of the military department of the Missouri, has ten com- 
panies in garrison. This famous frontier stronghold stands on the bluffs of the Missouri, 
north of Leavenworth, and consists of the long and austere arsenal, the brick barracks, 
scores of officers' cottages, school buildings, and a noble quadrangle of velvety grass, bor- 
dered by stately elms', and shaded by many venerable trees. The post was greatly beauti- 
fied by Gens. Sheridan and Pope, while they were in command, and is one of the most 
desired stations in the Republic. The drills and reviews on the parade-ground attract many 
visitors ; and the garrison-band is the finest in the West. The United-States Infantry and 
Cavalry School, 
at Fort Leaven- 
worth, gives young 
officers practical 
and theoretical in- 
struction in mili- 
tary tactics, cere- 
monies, mihtary fort scott and the marmaton river. 




UNIVERSITY OF KANSAS: SNOW HALL. 




THE STATE OF KANSAS. 



271 




EMPORIA : STATE NORMAL SCHOOL. 



law, hippology, reconnaisance, surveying, attack and defence by outposts and masses, and 
other martial themes. It is a war college, similar in purpose to the Artillery School at Fort 
Monroe. At Fort Riley is a National School for the practical instruction of cavalry and 
light artillery -; combined, the training of young horses, and the drilling of 

recruits for the 'l , ^ mounted service. There are eight companies in garrison, 

this fort being the headquarters of the famous Seventh 
^■^Slfifeig^ffTS^SI^^jl^ Cavalry. Close to Fort Riley is the geographical cen- 
nRtif^i;.;;0 , tre of the Republic (excluding Alaska). The West- 

^ . p^P -^,-» , . „<• ..^n ■■.^, ,, " ern Branch of the National Home for Disabled Volun- 
teer Soldiers was opened in 1886, and contains over 
1,800 inmates. It has long ranges of barracks and 
otiier buildings, in a beautiful and extensive domain 
on the Missouri River, near Leavenworth. The Home band gives open-air concerts every 
Sunday. The United-States Military Prison for the Army, at Fort Leavenworth, contains 
500 convjicts, enlisted men who have been guilty of serious misdemeanors. They are held 
under rigid discipline ; and manufacture boots and shoes, harness and furniture, and other 
articles for army use. 

About a thousand Indians remain in Kansas, under the Pottawatomie and Great Nemaha 
Agency, besides many who are wandering free. They have long forgotten the art of war, 
and obtain a comfortable subsistence by tilling their fields and raising stock. Their better 
methods of living and caring for the sick have checked the mournful death-rate of the tribes, 
and they are already showing a marked increase of numbers. Five hundred members of the 
Prairie Band of Pottawatomies occupy 77,000 acres northwest of To- m peka ; 226 

Kickapoos dwell seven miles from Netawaka; 165 lowas and 80 
Sacs and Foxes occupy 24,000 acres in the northeast; and 75 
Chippewa and Munsee (or Christian) Indians are near Ottawa. 
Haskell Institute, at Lawrence, contains 400 boys and 150 girls, ' 
from 34 tribes, and gives them a thorough industrial training. It 
was founded by the Government in 1884, and is the second In- 
dian school, in point of size. 

Chief Cities. — Leavenworth is beautifully placed on the Missouri, which is crossed bj* 
a great steel Ijridge. It was for many years the chief city of Kansas, and has a large manu- 
facturing and shipping business, with capital local institutions. An heroic bronze statue of 
Gen. Grant was unveiled in 1889 at Leavenworth. Kansas City, Kansas, is separated from 
Kansas City, Missouri, by the State line, through the middle of one of its streets. It is the 
largest city in the State, and stands on the Missouri River, at the mouth of the Kansas. Its 
stock-yards and packing-houses do an immense business. Topeka, the capital city, occupies 
a pleasant rolling prairie on both banks of the Kansas River. It is a large milling-centre, 
and has manufactures with a yearly output of $10,000,000. It is also an important railway 

centre and distributing point. The notice- 
able features are the wide-paved streets, ex- 
tensive electric street-car service, free public 
schools and colleges, public library, and 
handsome churches. Lawrence is a lovely 
little New-England city on both sides of the 
Kansas River, with its broad Massachusetts 
Avenue, the University buildings on Mount 
Oread, and a large country-trade. It has a 
valuable water-power, with growing nianu- 
facturcs. Wichita, the metropolis of south- 
ern Kansas, dates from 1 870, and grew so 
LEAVENWORTH NATIONAL SOLDIERS HOME amazingly, that It is Called " The Magic Mas- 




LEAVENWORTH : POST-OFFICE. 




272 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LEAVENWORTH, AND THE MISSOURI RIVER. 



cot of the Plains," with 60 miles of street-car lines, and factories and packing-houses em- 
ploying 1,500 operatives. Atchison has a pleasant situation on the great bend of the Mis- 
souri, and is rich in varied industries. Fort Scott is a busy city on the Marmaton River, 

with the 
(i o V e r n - 
nicnt su- 
g 11 -works, 
and g a s - 
wells, flag- 
stone quar- 
iics, brick- 
yards, and 

cement-works. Railroads run in seven directions from Parsons, a busy factory-town and 
jobbing-jioint. Ottawa abounds in mills, for flour, sorghum, iron, castor-oil, and furniture. 
Hutchinson, on the Arkansas, was founded in 1872, and has large meat-packing, sugar- 
making, lard-refining and salt-works. The trade-centres and chief shipping points of south- 
western Kansas are Garden City and Dodge City, high up on the Arkansas River. Man- 
hattan was founded by Boston and Cincinnati colonies, in 1885, and is now a prosperous 
and pleasant city, on the Kansas River. Abilene, on the Smoky-Hill River, used to be the 
local point of the overland cattle trade. It has long passed out of this era of "revolvers 
and canned fruit," and now holds high rank as a railway and manufacturing centre. Arkan- 
sas City thrives on trade with the neighboring Indian 
Territory, and on stock-raising and the handling of 
grain from the surrounding farm-country. 

Railways. —The vast movement of corn and 
wheat, cattle and hogs from Kansas to the East, of 
hay and garden and dairy products and flour to the 
mines of the West, is rendered possible by a wonder- 
ful system of railways. In 1859 there was not a mile 
of track in the Territory ; now, there are 9,000 miles, 
And only four counties are outside of their lines. The 
first railway was begun by the Kansas Pacific line, in 1863, at Wyandotte. This was rapidly 
constructed through to Denver, at the base of the Rocky Mountains, a distance of 639 miles, 
and has since been operated by the Union Pacific system as one of the great thoroughfares 
of the continent. Now four great trunk lines cross the entire State from east to west. The 
Missouri Pacific traverses the centre of the State, clear into Colorado, and has an elaborate 
net-work of tracks all over Kansas. The Atchison, Topeka & Santa-Fe, with its 9,000 
miles of track, begins in Kansas, and thence penetrates the mysterious Southwest, far into 
Mexico, with scores of branches Westward, it reaches California, and lays down its freight 
and passengers at San Francisco and San Diego. Eastward it reaches Chicago and St. 
^-, .,- ' ' '^ ' \ ' "" Louis, where it joins 

■' ,5:" ^.^-^ hands with all the 
i ^ ^ •- _"^-x^ i'.i if^ ^ trunk lines. The gen- 

t^:^r7^'y;t^:z''±^B^&^ e^-^i officer of ^i^i- 

^ jjj^^ '' ^ ''^ — — j= ^ ^..==^^z^- great corporation are 

1 &^SkA ^- " ""zT^^^^^^s^^ iJik^l A ^, at Topeka, and the 

main shops of the .sys- 
tem are also located 
there. 

Manufactures. — 

Kansas has 800 factories, employing 16,000 operatives and turning out $50,000,000 in 
finished products. The chief articles of manufacture are flour and meats. 




FORT LEAVENWORTH : 



SSOURI-RIVER BRIDGE. 







FORT LEAVENWORTH. THE BARRACKS 




HI5T0RY. 

Hidden behind the wil- 
derness of the Alleghanies, 
Kentucky remained nearly 
three centuries after the dis- 
covery of America, before 
the vedettes of civilization 
looked from the Cumberland 
Mountains westward over her 
silent forests. Ages had passed since the Mound Builders 
vanished, leaving along the rivers and pfeteaus great 
fortresses and mounds, to haunt even the present genera- 
tion with their mysteries ; and the unpeopled country lay 
as a neutral belt and hunting-ground between the Dela- 
wares and Sha^\^lees on the north, and the Creeks and 
Cherokees on the south. Kentucky was included in the 
royal grants to Virginia ; and from time to time her adven- 
turous hunters and the mountaineers of North Carolina 
explored parts of the empty land. In 1769 Daniel Boone, 
John Findley and others entered this region, and remained 
two years. In 1770 Washington visited northeastern Ken- 
tucky ; and Col. Knox and his Long Hunters explored 
other parts. Ilarrodsburg was established in 1774; and 
the next year Boone founded the fort of Boonesborough, 
bringing to it his wife and daughters, the first white wo- 
men to enter this commonwealth. In 1776 Kentucky 
became a county of Virginia. The annals of the region 
for many years are lurid with Indian attacks and massa- 
cres, the sieges of the American fortified stations, and the 
bloody forays of the fierce northern savages and the British 
troops from Canada. 

For nearly twenty years after 1784, the Spanish gov- 
ernment at New Orleans was engaged in a series of 
obscure plots with Wilkinson, Sebastian and other promi- 
nent persons, looking toward the secession of Kentucky 
from the Union, and her annexation to the realms of Spa 
twenty cannon and large supplies of arms and money up the 
try from the American power. At about the same time 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at . Harrodsbur^, in 1774 
F"ounded by .... Virginians 
Admitted to the United States, 1792 
I'opulation, in ib6o, . . . 1,155,684 
I'opulaiioM in 1870, . . . 1,321,011 
I'opulation in ib8o, . . . 1,648,690 

White 1,377.179 

Colored 271,451 

American-born, . . 1,589,173 
Foreign-born, . . . 59,517 

Males, 832,590 

Females, 816,100 

Population in 1890, . . . 1,858,635 
Population to the square mile, 10 
Voting Population, . . . 376,221 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 155,134 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 183,800 
State Debt, less than funds in hand. 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property $513,000,000 

Savings Banks, o 

Deposits o 

Area (square miles), . . . 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 
Militia (Disciplined), . . . 

Counties, 

Cities 

Towns, 

Post-offices, 

Railroads (miles), 



40,400 

II 

1,271 



. . 2,379 
. . 2,746 
Capital and Debt, . $191,000,000 
Gross Yearly Earnings, $13,726,218 
Colleges and Professional Schools,i3' 

Public Schools 

Enrolled Pupils 3I9|022 

In Sunday Schools, . . . 257,407 
Public Libraries, .... 6 

Volumes, 123,000 

Daily Papers 11 

Other Papers, 211 

Latitude 36=30' to 39° 0' 

Longitude, .... 82=3' to 89°26' 

'Peniperature 

Mean Temperature, . . . 56° 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Louisville, 161,129 

Covinglon, 37.371 

Newport 24,918 

Lexington 21,567 

Paducah, 12,797 

Owensboro 9,837 

Henderson 8,835 

Frankfort 7,892 

Howling Creen, 7,803 

Hopkinsville 5,833 



in. Carondelet offered to send 
river to aid in freeing the coun- 
(1S06) the .mysterious scheme 



274 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LEXINGTON IN 1782. 



of Aaron Burr for conquering a Southwestern empire 
out of Spain's colonies was under way, and the arch- 
conspirator enlisted many Kentuckians in his abor- 
tive plot. The vast majority of the people and their 
leaders remained loyal and law-abiding, and so these 
strange dreams came to nought, and Kentucky in due 
time attained her long-denied aspirations, the honors 
of Statehood and the free navigation of the lower 
Mississippi. 

The Kentuckians have always been a martial race. 
They furnished for the War of i8i2 the 7th, 17th and 
28th U.-S. Infantry, besides many regiments of hard- 
fighting militia. To the Mexican war they sent 13,700 brave volunteers; and the monu- 
ment to their slain at Frankfort called forth the noble poem, The Bivouac of the Dead, by 
Col. Theodore O'Hara, a Kentuckian officer. 

During the Secession movement Kentucky at first stood aside, endeavoring to remain an 
armed neutral State, mediating between the combatants. She was a slave-holding com- 
munity, having the closest social and business relations with the South ; but on the 
other hand her people cherished that profound love for the Union which 1 Henry Clay, 
"Harry of the West," had spent his life in nurturing. Gov. Magoffin ^^ was a Seces- 
sionist, but the Legislature declared boldly for the Union, and armed the ' jlip State Guard, 
who were ordered to swear allegiance to the Republic. A large pro- |'"' portion of the 
Kentuckians entered the armies, 91,900 of them fighting under the Stars [ and Stripes, 
and 40,000 under the Stars and Bars. Disregarding the Governor's | profession of 
neutrality, the Confederates marched into the State, September 3d, I i86i,andthe 
Federals September 7th ; and Kentucky, for years after became again I "The Dark 
and Bloody Ground." Unable to extend their frontier to the Ohio, the | 
Confederates formed a line of defense across the midlands, with 
bus and Bowling Green strongly fortified ; heavily garrisoned 
works on the Tennessee and Cumberland rivers ; and ZoUi- 
coffer's army advancing from Cumberland Gap as a flying 
right wing. The defeat of the latter, by Gen. Thomas, at 
Mill Spring, and Garfield's victory over Humphrey Marshall, 
restored the national authority in the eastern counties. 
Grant's 17,000 men and Foote's iron-clad gunboats, after a 
bloody February campaign, captured Forts Donelson and 
Henry, ten miles apart, on the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers, with their garrisons 
of 15,000 Confederates. In September, 1S62, Bragg and Kirby Smith entered the State 
with splendid Confederate armies, and sharply menaced Louisville and Cincinnati, but were 
defeated at Perryville, and driven back through Cumberland Gap. After this perilous 
campaign, there occurred no events of military importance, although 
John Morgan and his gallant Confederate horsemen made several 
destructive forays through the State. 

Since the war-flags were furled, Kentucky has made great ad- 
vances in prosperity and wealth, building many important rail- 
ways and beautifying her cities. The larger development of 
her coal and iron mines, now just beginning, bids fair to be 
of vast value and significance. Of late years there has 
been a series of bloody vendettas between families of the 
mountaineers of Pike, Rowan and other secluded counties, 
and detachments of militia have been sent up there, from 
FRANKFORT I BOONE MONUMENT, tlmc to timc, to Tcstorc a traHsicnt order. Assassinations are 




LEXINGTON : HENRY CLAY MONUMENT. 




THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 



275 




^*-~^ 



CUMBERLAND FALLS. 



of frequent occurrence, and oftentimes go unpunished, 
and the officers of justice escape responsibility. 

The Name of the State (according to Allen's Ken- 
tucky') means The Dark and Bloody Ground. Ramsey's 
Tennessee translates it The Da7-k and Bloody Land. 
Moulton's Netv York and Hayward's Tennessee call it 
The River of Blood. Johnson (^Bidian Tribes of Ohio) 
and Gallatin (^Ltdian Tribes) believe it to be a Shawnee 
word, meaning At the Head of a River, referring to the 
ancient migrations of the Shawnees up and down the 
Kentucky. 

The Arms of Kentucky, as ordered in 1792, repre- 
sent two gentlemen shaking hands. It was intended to 
have had them in hunter's garb, with their feet on the 
edge of a precipice, but they are now shown in full dress, 
one in the costume of the last century, the other mod- 
ern, and both standing in a room. As James Lane 
Allen says : "The Kentuckian loves the human swarm. The very motto of his State is a 
declaration of good-fellowship, and the seal of the Commonwealth the act of shaking 
hands." The motto is: United We Stand, Divided We Fall. 

The Governors of Kentucky have been Isaac Shelby, 1792-6; Jas. Garrard, 1796- 
1804; Christopher Greenup, 1804-8; Chas. Scott, 1808-12; Isaac Shelby, 1812-16 ; Geo. 
Madison, 1816 ; Gabriel Slaughter (acting), 1816-20; John Adair, 1820-4; Joseph Desha, 
Thos. Metcalfe, 1828-32; John Breathitt, 1832-4; Jas. T. Morehead (acting), 
Jas. Clark, 1836-7; Chas. A. Wickliffe (acting), 1837-4O ; Robt. P. Letcher, 
Wm. Owsley, 1844-8; John J. Crittenden, 1848-50; John L. Helm (acting), 
L. W. Powell, 1851-5 ; C. S. Morehead, 1855-9 ; Beriah Magoffin, 1859-61 ; J. F. 
Robinson, 1861-3; Thos. E. Bramlette, 1863-7; John L. Helm, 1867; J. W. Stevenson, 
1867-71 ; P. II. Leslie, 1871-5; J. B. McCreary, 1875-9 ; L. P. Blackburn, 1879-83 ; J. P. 
Knott, 1S83-7; S. B. Buckner, 1887-91; and John Young Brown, 1891-95. 

Descriptive. — Kentucky is larger than Portugal, or Belgium, Holland and Greece 
combined. Its domain exceeds those of the five western States of New England united. 
An area of 3,000 square miles lies in the Alleghany mountain-region, whose two western- 
most ranges traverse the southeastern corner. Here the Cumberland Moun- 
tains guard the frontiers of the Virginias for 130 miles, with Pine Mountain 
drawing its long, abrupt and wall-like ridge parallel for many leagues, each 
range being above 2,000 feet high, and running northeast. Between these 
great mountain-walls lies the heavily-wooded Cumberland Valley, twelve 
miles wide, from whose green depths the Black and Brush mountains rise still 
higher. It is one of the loveliest valleys of the Alleghany range, singularly 
isolated among strongly marked bordering mountains. Cumberland Gap, 
1,675 f'^^'^ above the sea, and half a mile across, from crest to crest, cuts 
through the range, where Virginia and Kentucky and Tennessee join, and 
gives passage to a highway. Pine Gap affords a similar route over Pine 
Mountain, and here the Cumberland River breaks through, 960 feet above 
the sea. At Cumberland Falls the river plunges 65 feet over a shelving 
cliff, amid great beauty of mountain scenery, and near iron springs. Eastern 
Kentucky is underlaid by fields of coal, and covered by vast forests of white 
oak and ash, hickory and chestnut, hemlock and yellow pine. These wild 
highlands are inhabited by a raceof sturdy mountaineers, straight and angular 
in frame, with strong and intelligent features, sad in the women, fierce in 
the men, in manner shy but fearless, and in their lives listless and tranquil. 



1824-8 ; 
1S34-6 ; 
1840-4 ; 
1850-1 ; 




FRANKFORT : SOL- 
DIERS' MONUMENT. 



276 A'/ATG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

The greater part of the State is composed of plateaus, falling off toward the Mississippi 
and the Ohio, and cut by the deep and abrupt valleys of the streams, with bold bluffs and 
rounded slopes. In the north is the beautiful rolling country of the Blue Grass, from whose 
centre, at Lexington, the land falls off toward the mountains and towards the Mississippi. 
To the southwest lies io,cxx) square miles of fertile country, famous for the huge caverns 
which penetrate its limestone, some of them hiding rivers, but few of which flow in day- 
light in this region. The rains sink away in gentle depressions of the ground, and enter 
the underground streams. The cavern-belt runs from Carter County, in the far northeast, 
to the Ohio below Louisville, including hundreds of grottoes in the subcarboniferous lime- 
stone, with many thousands of miles of underground cavern-ways. Near Litchfield there is 
a grotto fourteen miles long, containing hundreds of halls and avenues, and a wide and 
deep stream full of eyeless fish. 

The Mammoth Cave, near Green River, about midway between Louisville and Nash- 
ville, is one of the most wonderful caverns in the 

wnrlfl \\ wng rlicnnvprpd in T^OQ, b^ a l^U^^C '" p^ir- 

suit of a bear, and has for many years atti acted \isitors 







■x 



^^ [:a^^!t^ 



'::^^iM 




CUMBERLAND GAP. 



MIDDLESBOROUGH. 



from all countries. Among the hidden bases of the hills, far beneath the green forests of Ken- 
tucky, the labyrinth of grottoes winds away for over 200 miles of avenues and corridors and 
cloisters, widening out into great halls, with roofs of sparry stone, and leading to the brinks 
of unfathomable chasms. Bayard Taylor declared this to be the greatest natural curiosity 
that he had ever visited. Rlany miles of passages have been eroded, mainly by water 
charged with carbonic acid, forming 226 avenues, 23 pits, and 47 domes, adorned with 
beautiful rosettes and flowers of rock, and stalagmites and stalactites. The first hall entered 
is the Rotunda, loo feet high and 175 feet in diameter ; and beyond, the dark crypts wind 
away in various directions, and to scores of halls with magniloquent names. The guides 
lead their charges to the Fioating-Cloud Room, overarched by the similitude of drifting 
clouds ; the Star Chamber, with twinkling constellations of white limestone points overhead ; 
Gorin's Dome, a sublime crag 200 feet high ; the profound chasm of the Maelstrom ; Cleve- 
land's Cabinet, two miles long, glittering with roses and tulips and daisies of alabaster ; 
Martha's Vineyard, with bowers of colored stalactites in the semblance of grape-clusters ; 
the Pass of El Ghor, winding for two miles between wonderful 
limestone cliffs ; the Great Walk, paved with yellow sand and 
roofed with white limestone ; and many other wonders and 
mimicries of nature. There are deep and inky-looking lakes, 
Lethe, the Dead Sea, and others, some of them traversed l)y 
boats ; and rivers, like the Styx, in places 40 feet wide and 30 
feet deep, and Echo River, flowing for nearly a mile with a 
width of 200 feet. There are several miles of navigable water 
on these streams, in whose depths dwell strange eyeless fish. 
The darkness is solid and palpable, and, together with the in- 




MAMMOTH CAVE. 



THE STATE OE KENTUCKY. 



277 



'-^^f^ 




ROCKCASTLE SPRINGS. 



tense silence, produces an abiding feeling of drowsiness. The cave is reached by a rail- 
way branching from the Louisville & Nashville line ; and near its entrance stands a large 
hotel. Visiting parties usually enter at nine in the morning, with guides, and clad in cos- 
tumes adapted for rough work. The journey is free from fatigue, on account of the pure 
air and even temperature ; and delicate women have emerged after a walk of six leagues 
without exhaustion. The atmosphere in the cave is singularly pure and wholesome, nearly 
devoid of carbonic acid, moisture, ozone and organic matter. The temperature, in summer 
or winter, remains at 59°. When the outer air is warmer, a steady wind pours out of the 
cave ; when it is cooler, a similar draught rushes into the dark depths. Between 181 1 and 
1 81 5 great quantities of saltpetre were made here, mainly by negro laborers, who staid in- 
side the cavern from one year's end to another. In 1843 fifteen consumptive persons went 
^^ ^ i .-^_, into the cave to dwell, in cottages which had been 

erected for their homes ; but the experiment resulted 
fatally for nearly all of them. 

The Natural Bridge of Kentucky rises thirty feet 
above the glen beneath, and has a span of 200 
feet. Other great arches of rock occur near 
Hopkinsville, and in Cumberland County. Rock- 
castle County has a wonderful natural tun- 
nel 1,800 feet long and from ten to twenty feet 
high, through which carts pass from one side of 
Big Hill to the other, the local oxen having be- 
come accustomed to the dark transit. In the 
West, between the Green and Cumberland, are the lands once called "barrens," but of 
late years proved to be productive. Here thousands of round-topped oak-knobs diversify 
the surface of the country. 

Kentucky was one of the original forest States, and two thirds of her surface remains 
in woodlands, yielding a valuable product, greatly needed in the adjacent prairie regions. 
The trees are oak and beech, blue ash and black walnut, maples and tulips, sweet -gums and 
pines. Seven thousand square miles of prairies found by the pioneers between the Ohio 
and Tennessee have grown into deep forests, wherever uncultivated, owing to the cessation 
of the Indian prairie-fires. West of the Tennessee River, on the lowlands toward the 
Mississippi, occur broad areas of cypress, pecan, catalpa and cottonwood trees. 

Vast herds of buffalo and elk once roamed over the blue-grass plains, but they have long 
since been exterminated. The land now has a few deer, wolves, and bears, and plenty of 
raccoons and opossums. 

Kentucky is peculiarly blessed in its rivers, rising in the great Cumberland range, and 
passing through narrow cafions and deep glens for many leagues, overlooked by castellated 
and cavernous rocks, and a rich vegetation of almost tropical 
luxuriance. The streams abound in edible fish, some of them 
of great size. Twenty-pound salmon and hundred-pound catfish 
have been caught here. The Mississippi flows along the west- 
ern frontier for eighty miles, the avenue of a mighty com- 
merce, but with no important Kentuckian ports. The Ohio 
forms the northern frontier for 6425- miles, separating Ken- 
tucky from Ohio, Indiana and Illinois. Its entire length is 
continually navigated by fleets of steamboats and barges. At 
low water the Falls of the Ohio, at Louisville, present a long 
series of tumultuous rapids, "the most beautiful and extensive 
natural cabinet of corals in the world — a reef of corals, of 
exquisite beauty." At high water steamboats run the rapids, 
up and down. Upwards of 5,000 vessels traverse the Louisville kentucky-river high bridge. 




2 78 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LOUISVILLE : KENTUCKY & INDIANA BRIDGE. 



and Portland Canal yearly, bearing freight exceeding 
1,200,000 tons; and nearly 2,000 vessels ascend or de- 
scend the open river here, carrying 1,000,000 tons of 
freight. The Big Sandy River separates Kentucky from 
West Virginia, and is navigable for steamboats for 26 
miles, from the Ohio up to Levisa, where it breaks into the 
Tug Fork (140 miles long) and Levisa Fork (189 miles), 
which have been ascended by light-draught steamboats 
as far as Warfield and Piketon. These streams traverse 
a wild hill-country, where the roads are few and bad ; and are much used by push-boats, 
in which merchandise is transported. The Cumberland River rises in Eastern Kentucky, 
and winds for 700 miles down into Tennessee and back north through Western Kentucky, 
entering the Ohio at Smithland. It is navigable all the year as far as Nashville (192 miles) 
for light-draught steamboats, and as far as Burnside and the head of Smith's Shoals (529 
miles) during half the year. There is a large freight and passenger trafiic, employing 
eight steamboats above Nashville, and eight below, on which grain and tobacco, lumber 
and merchandise are shipped. The Government is clearing the stream for navigation from 
Burnside to Pineville, near Cumberland Gap, and nearly 800 miles from the Ohio. The 
Tennessee River curves through the western counties, with seventy miles of navigable waters 
in the State, flowing out at Paducah, on the Ohio. This river may be ascended by steamers 
through Tennessee and Alabama to the frontiers of North Carolina. The Kentucky flows 
for many leagues through a picturesque gorge in the bird's-eye limestone, and has fine 
canon scenery between Frankfort and Boonesborough. The river may be ascended by 
steamboats for 98 miles, to Oregon. The United States has spent $1,500,000 in improving 
the navigation of the Kentucky by locks and dams, and small steamboats have ascended at 
high water as far as Beattyville, 261 miles from the Ohio. A scheme once imder discussion, 
and partly surveyed by the State, contemplated the e.\tension of slackwater navigation from 
the upper Kentucky by Goose and Richland creeks to the Cumberland, passing Cumberland 
Gap by a mile-long tunnel, and entering Powell's River (of the Tennessee system), con- 
necting thereafter with the Hiawassee and Savannah, and so to the sea. The Licking is 
200 miles long, with 125 miles navigable, to Falmouth; and the Green is 300 miles long, 
two thirds of it navigable, to Greensburg. There are nearly a thousand miles of naviga- 
tion on the other rivers, which have been extensively improved by the State and National 
Governments, so that rafts may 
descend from the mountains on 
the rain-tides. 

The mineral springs of Ken- 
tucky have been famous resorts 
for health-seekers during more 
than half a century. The Paro- 
quet (Bullitt County), Big-Bone 
( Boone ), Olympian ( Bath ) and 
Fox (Fleming) are well-known 
saline-sulphur waters. Other lo- 
cally popular resorts are the Bedford, Estill, W^hite-Sulphur, and Tar Springs, and Hick- 
man's, in Daviess County ; and the Sebree, Ohio and Rough-Creek Springs. The Blue- 
Lick Sjnings, eight miles from Carlisle, are famous all over the world for their efficacy in 
curing diseases of the liver and kidneys. The water can be smelt a mile away, and is 
agitated continually by great bubbles of gas. It is exported in large quantities. The 
numerous Grayson Springs, which are classed among the sulphur waters of America, flow 
in a little half-acre glen five miles from Litchfield. Eseulapia Springs, in Lewis County, 
are white sulphur and chalybeate, with a hotel and cottages. Drennon's Lick, in Henry 




It <!l' ^"U . ^n ^ "1 ; 1 '|.* 11 41 ) 



t 







LOUISVILLE MASONIC W DOWS 



THE STATE OE KENTUCKY. 



279 




POST-OFFICE. 



County, is much visited on account of its black and salt sulphur waters. Rockcastle Springs 
are amid the craggy highlands of Pulaski County. Linnietta Springs, near Danville, include 
white and black sulphur, salt, magnesia, alum and iron waters, and are near the Blue Knobs, 
which overlook a vast area of the Blue-Grass region. Crab Orchard, in Lincoln County, 
has valuable sulphur and iron waters, and a rural hotel. The salt-licks are marshy glens 
containing water from springs made saline by flowing through salt-bearing sandstone. 
Here the wild animals used to come to lick the salt, and thousands of skeletons of elephants 
and musk-oxen, mastodons and mammoths have been found about these primeval mineral 
springs. 

The Climate is mild and healthful, and more equal)le than in the neighboring States. 
The rainfall varies from 45 inches, on the Ohio River, to 
60 inches, at Cumberland Gap. The salubrity of the air 
appears in the excellence of its domestic animals, and in 
its men, who (with those of Tennessee) were the tallest and 
heaviest soldiers in the National armies, with the largest 
heads and chests. Epidemic and miasmatic diseases and 
consumption are rare, and bodily deformities almost un- 
known. 

Farming was the occupation of the Virginians and 
Marylandcrs who founded Kentucky, and it continues to 
be the chief business, and has attained a great diversity in 
products. As early as 1S40, this State led the Union in wheat and hemp; in 1850, in flax 
and hemp ; in 1870 and 1880, in hemp and tobacco. Kentucky has always been the fore- 
most State in the cultivation of hemp, the larger part of which goes to the New-England 
rope and cordage mills. The yearly product once passed 35,000 tons, but has now de- 
clined to 7,000. The corn crop varies from 50,000,000 to 90,000,000 bushels yearly, and 
comes largely from the western counties — Henderson, Union, Hopkins, Warren and 
others. The wheat yield is 12,000,000 bushels, valued at nearly |!io,ooo,ooo. Christian 
and Union, in the west, each yield over 500,000 bushels a year. The yearly product of 
oats has reached 8,000,000 bushels; that of hay, 410,000 tons. The lowlands between the 
Tennessee and Mississippi, among the forests of catalpa, are whitened by cotton-fields. 

Of the 1,271,000,000 pounds of tobacco produced yearly in the world, the United States 
yields 510,000,000 pounds ; Turkey and Hungary following with 120,000,000 each. The 
taxes paid the American Government from its manufacture since 1S62 amount to $840,- 
000,000, derived from 3,400,000 tons of chewing and smoking tobacco, 58,000,000,000 
cigars, and 14,000,000,000 cigarettes. Kentucky alone produces nearly two thirds of the 
American tobacco crop, its output in 1889 reaching 280,000,000 pounds. This is com- 
posed about equally of the Burley and dark varieties. The first is raised in the northern 
and eastern counties, and used chiefly for chewing and smoking, but little of it being ex- 
ported. The dark is raised altogether in the southern and western counties, and much 
the greater part of it is exported. Spain, Italy, France, England, Austria, Gcrman\-, 
Mexico, South America and the West Indies _ 

are all large buyers, and make their purchases 
through the warehouses, which receive the crops 
directly from the farmers and country dealers. 
In this branch of the business Louisville is pre- 
eminent. For nearly a century she has been 
building and developing it, and is to-day the 
great tobacco market of the world. The magni- 
tude of her sales, the great variety of tobacco 
sold, and the facilities for receiving and shipping, 
have not only attracted large local manufactories, 




LEXINGTON : BLUE-GRASS PASTURES. 



28o 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LOUISVILLE : FARMERS' TOBACCO WAREHOUSE. 



but buyers of all kinds of tobacco from all parts of 
the world. The warehouses here, fourteen in number, 
with millions of capital, handle one third of the to- 
bacco raised in America, the amount sold reaching 
in a year 135,000 hogsheads. The Kentucky tobacco 
crops of the past 35 years have brought the enormous 
sum of $300,000,000, and Louisville has sold the 
greater part of this, besides millions of dollars' worth 
from adjoining States. 

This interesting department of Kentucky trade 
centres around the Farmers' Tobacco Warehouse, an immense and architectually beautiful 
six-story building on Main Street, Louisville. This is the largest and most commodious 
structure of the kind in America, and can store at one time 6,900 hogsheads. Tobacco is 
shipped here from the largest handlers. The hogsheads are taken by elevators to the sales- 
room, or break floor, and then removed from the tobacco, which is broken by stalwart 
negroes in several places, whence sample bundles are taken out and placed outside the 
hogshead as samples. Then the sale takes place, by public auction, in the presence of 
from 75 to 150 buyers, American manufacturers, Mexicans and Canadians, and the repre- 
sentatives of European government factories. The sales are of daily occurrence, and from 
fifty to eighty hogsheads are sold each hour, at from $25 to $400 each. The transactions 
are all for cash, for in Kentucky tobacco is king, and brings direct and profitable returns. 

In 1834 the tobacco trade of Louisville was confined to a single small warehouse, selling 
yearly 200 hogsheads, brought in from the surrounding country by wagons and flat-boats. 
The Farmers' Warehouse opened in 1869, and passed into the hands of the present company 



tors, and sells 
istration of 
In 1890 the 



•in 1880, since which it has advanced beyond all its competi 
27,000,000 pounds of leaf tobacco yearly, under the able admin- 
President James Clark and Vice-President Frederick H. Wulkop. , ? 
Pan-American delegates were received at the Farmers' To 
bacco Warehouse, whose great hall bore the flags of 
all their nations. 

The world-renowned Blue-Grass region covers 
10,000 square miles, and is a high undulating plateau, 
of great landscape beauty, enwalled by a series of 
abrupt ridges, Muldrough's Hill, King's Moun- 
tain, Big Hill, and others. The soil is black or 
dark brown, and very rich, and by rotation of 
crops and careful tillage a high agricultural de- 
velopment has been reached. Prof. Agassiz told 
the farmers of Massachusetts that "the question 
fundamental to all others in the stock business is 
the rock question." The rock underlying this region for 150 feet is a rotten blue fossilifer- 
ous limestone, rich in phosphate of lime, and of inexhaustible fecundity. This crumbling 
rock falls to pieces on exposure to the air, and thus continually enriches the growing 
crops with the best constituents. Tobacco and hemp, two crops requiring the richest and 
strongest soil, rise from these fields in a gigantic growth, which remains unweakened for 
many returning years. The native orchard grass (^dadylis gloiiierata) still grows in the shady 
places, but has been run out of the sunlight spaces by the smooth-stalked meadow-grass 
\poa pratensis), probably introduced from England. The latter has a small blue flower ; 
but in reality there is no blue grass, and the origin of the name is a mystery. This strong 
and hardy vegetation hardly ever stops growing, but boldly pushes up even through the 
snows, furnishing permanent winter pasturage. The grass is a soft-folded and fine-textured 
green, covering the pastures in spring and autumn like a thickly matted moss. . The country 




TOBACCO 
CULTURE 



THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 



281 




SPRING STATION : A. J. 



■ WOODBURN. 



is one of the most beautiful in the world, with the exquisite folds of its graceful hills, the 
leafy roofs of the woodland pastures, the crystalline and reposeful skies, the rich harvest- 
fields, the broad, straight, white highways. It is supposed that the hard limestone water of 
this region aids in the very complete development of the bones and bodies of the animals 
grown here, not only the wonderful trotting-horses, but also the thousands of thorough- 
bred cattle, Cotswold and Southdown sheep, and Berkshire hogs. It may also account for 
the stalwart men and beautiful women for whom these counties are famous. The improve- 
ment of breeds of domestic animals has for many years been a subject of the most careful 
study and experiment in Kentucky, until it has become the great American centre for 
blooded stock of all kinds. The horses raised here, adding to the fine endurance of their 
Anglo-Virginian ancestors the fleetness of later 
imported racers, win three fourths of the races in 
theUnited States, and combine in a remarkable de- 
degree speed and staying power. As late as the 
year 181 8, a thousand-dollar bet was made that 
no horse could trot a mile in three minutes ; and 
when Boston Blue succeeded in doing this, he was 
sent to Europe to be exhibited as a marvel. In 
1824 the record fell to a mile in 2.40; in 1854 
Flora Temple cut it down under 2.20 ; and Maud 
S. has made her mile in 2.oSf. It is the hope 
and ambition of breeders to produce a horse that 
can trot a mile in two minutes, and it has been 
scientifically computed that a horse will accomplish 
this before 1900. It is natural, of course, to look to Kentucky for that horse. 

Lexington is the greatest horse-market in the State, and every spring-time dealers in 
fine horses assemble here from all parts of the country, to attend the annual auction-sales, 
whose proceeds amount to several millions of dollars. The thorough-bred trotters and 
runners command high prices, and the amounts paid for them run far up into the thou- 
sands. Horses are sent from this favored region to Australia and New Zealand, England 
and France, Germany and Spain. The Lexington region was famous for its horses from 
the very first, and as early as 1787 racing was regularly carried on along the Commons. 
The Lexington Jockey Club came into existence in 1809, and the Kentucky Association in 
1826. The efforts of the last-named have been directed to improving the horses of Ken- 
tucky, especially in regard to speed and beauty. Fayette County is now almost a solid 
stock-farm. There are thirty regular breeding establishments, besides which nearly every 
farmer is to some extent a breeder ; and the environs of Lexington abound in park-like 
homesteads, with velvety lawns of blue grass and shadowy clusters of overarching forest- 
trees, in whose shade the finest blooded horses in America browse in content. Amid these 
fair fields, "beautiful as the vale of Tempe and fruitful as Sicily," are many scenes sugges- 
tive of the best rural counties of England. 

Ashland is half a league from the Lexington court- 
house, on the Richmond road, amid beautiful grounds 
and venerable forest-trees. The mansion was erected in 
1857, by James B. Clay, on the site of the roomy brick 
house built by Henry Clay, his father ; and preserves in 
its interior the rich oaken panelling of the older home. 
Here Webster, Lafayette, Monroe, Van Buren, Gen. 
Bertrand, Lord Morpeth, and many other illusfrious men 
have been honored guests. Henry Clay was one of the 
first to perceive and act upon the adaptability of these 

LEXINGTON , KENTUCKY UNIVERSITY, , ' c t^ ^ i ^ • ■ ^i i / c y 

LITERARY DEPARTMENT. Toyai pastures of Kentucky to raismg the best of horses. 




282 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNFfED STATES. 




MAJ. H. C. MCDOWELL'S PASTURE. 



and he imported a few thoroughbreds, from which 
are descended some of the most famous horses of 
to-day. His son, John M. Clay, devoted himself 
to thoroughbred runners ; and another son, James 
B. Clay, brought to Ashland the famous Mambrino 
Chief, whose great family is well-known. James 
B. Clay's widow sold Ashland to the citizens of 
Lexington, who gave it to the State Agricultural 
College. In 1881 the estate was bought by Major 
H. C. McDowell, who married a grand-daughter of 
Henry Clay, and (in company with his son, Thomas 
Clay McDowell) conducts here a noble manorial estate of 4A0 acres, and one of the choicest 
stock-farms of the world. The stud includes Dictator, Kine Rene and Noblesse, with 
forty fine brood-mares. Dictator, the head of the stud, is the sire of the great trotting 
race-horses, Jay-Eye-See, Phallas and Director. 

The Woodburn estate, embellished by the opulent ownership of a century, is fifteen 
miles from Lexington, and near Spring Station, and covers 3,000 acres of the juiciest sod 
of the Blue-Grass country. This domain was bought of Gen. Hugh Mercer's heirs, in 
1790, by Robert Alexander, a young man of a Scottish family, who came to America in 
1785, and whose sister had been married and brought to America by Gen. Williams, a 
member of Franklin's embassy. Four years after 
Robert Alexander's death, in 1841, the estate 
passed into the hands of his youngest son and 
two daughters, and was subsequently sold to the 
oldest son, R. A. Alexander, a Scottish laird 
turned Kentucky farmer ; and when he died, in 
1867, it reverted to his brother, A. J. Alexander. 
For nearly a century this farm has been the scene 
of many brilliant and successful experiments in 
breeding, in short-horn cattle, South-Down sheep, 
and thoroughbred horses, which have brought 
great glory and wealth to Kentucky. After the famous racer Lexington grew blind, he 
was bought by R. A. Alexander, for $15,000, and taken to Woodburn. The purchaser met 
with much ridicule for paying such a price, but his adventure was justified by Lexington's 
famous sons, Norfolk, Harry Bassett, Asteroid, and Kentucky, the last of which was sold 
for $40,000. Lexington, the greatest American thoroughbred, was born in 1850, and died 
in 1S75, receiving a royal funeral and a grave on one of the fairest of Kentucky hill-tops. 
Subsequently, his skeleton was set up in the National Museum, at Washington. Woodburn 
was the home of the dams of the two fastest horses that ever lived, Maud S. and Jay-Eye- 
See, and also the birth place of Maud S., the queen of trotters. Nutwood, Wedgewood, 

and many others. The live-stock of Kentucky in- 
cludes 372,000 horses, 800,000 cattle, 1,000,000 
sheep, and 2,000,000 hogs. 

Minerals. — The coal product of Kentucky rose 
from 150,000 tons in 1870 to nearly 2,500,000 tons 
in 1890. Louisville is the cheapest American 
market for this product. The Eastern (or Ap- 
palachian) coal-fields cover 9,000 square miles, and 
can be mined at low cost, being above the drain- 
age level, in veins from four to eight feet thick. 
The pure and valuable Elkhorn coking coal un- 
ASHLANo; MAJ. MCDOWELL'S STABLES. dcrlics l,6oo squarc miles in the southeast. The 




LEXINGTON: "ASHLAND'' 



RESIDENCE. 




THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 



283 




WOODBURN ' 



ALEXANDER. 



Western coal-field lies convenient to Green River, 
and covers 3,888 square miles. Many large mines 
are worked here ; and the fine cannel coal of the 
Breckenridge district is exported from Cloverport. 

There is a large quantity of iron ore in Ken- 
tucky, but the production of pig-iron averages little 
over 50,000 tons a year, at eighteen blast furnaces. 
Most of the ore conies from Bath County. In 
1889-90 vast developments of mineral property 
were made near Middlesborough, around Cumber- 
land Gap. The chief iron ores are the Clinton (dyestone) of the East ; the unstratified 
limonites of the subcarboniferous limestone, found in the West ; and the carbonites and 
limonites of the coal-measures, found in both sections. 

The black shales contain many oil-wells ; and in Cumberland and Wayne counties 
yields heavy lubricating oil. Natural gas has been found in many places, and turned to 
economic uses in manufacturing. Bowling Green has large quarries of oolite stone. Litho- 
graphic stone is worked and dressed at Glasgow Junction ; fine buff or cream-colored 
marble, near the Kentucky River ; and Buena-Vista sandstone, in many quarries in the 
east and north. The State also has the white glass-sand of Muldrough's Hill, the fertiliz- 
ing marl of Grayson and other counties, and fire-clays and pottery-clays, lead and zinc, 
limestone and gypsum, and saltpetre. 

The Government was modelled after that of Virginia, 
with a governor and executive officers serving four years, 
and a legislature of 38 senators and 100 representatives. 
The Court of Appeals has four judges; and there are also 
circuit and county courts. The Capitol occupies a pleasant 
site at Frankfort. The Penitentiary at Frankfort has over 
800 convicts, two thirds of them colored. It has a branch 
at Eddyville. The House of Refuge is a Louisville munici- 
pal institution. The Eastern Lunatic Asylum, at Lexing- 
" WOODBURN": A. J. ALEXANDER. ton, has 6oo inmates; the Central, at Anchorage (near 
Louisville), has 740 ; the Western, at Hopkinsville, has 640. The Institution for the Edu- 
cation and Training of Feeble-minded Children, at Frankfort, has 150. The Institution 
for Deaf Mutes is at Danville ; the Institution for the Education of the White and Colored 
Blind, at Louisville. The Masonic Widows' and Orphans' Home occupies one of the 
largest buildings in Louisville, and is the only institution of the kind in America, and 
famous among Masons all over the world. 

Education. — The State Agricultural and Mechanical College and Agricultural Experi- 
ment Station have several fine buildings, on a domain of 52 acres, overlooking Lexington. 
There are 16 professors and 300 students, mainly Kentuckians, each State representative 
being allowed to send one student free of tuition. This institution is maintained by yearly 
appropriations and the Congressional land-grant, and by a State tax ; and teaches chiefly 
scientific agriculture, technology, and military 
science. 

The first college west of the Alleghanies was 
Transylvania University, founded in 1780, at Dan- 
ville, and moved to Lexington in 1788. It received 
valuable grants from Virginia, and educated many 
eminent men. Exhausted by the civil war, in 1865 
its property was conveyed to Kentucky University, 
a school founded by the Christian sect, at Harrods- 
burg, in 1858. This institution occupies the old "woodburn": a. j. alexandeh. 





284 




KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Transylvania halls, and has 200 students in its college 
of arts, 100 in its College of the Bible, and 400 in the 
commercial college. The Christian denomination also 
conducts South-Kentucky College, at Hopkinsville, and 
the colleges at Eminence and North Middletown. The 
Catholic Church owns St. Joseph's, the oldest college 
(1S19) in Kentucky, at Bardstown, and St. Mary's College. 
Georgetown College and Bethel College ( at Russellville) 
are Baptist; and the Kentucky Wesleyan College at Mil- 
--:cw«9S8^' lersburg, is Methodist. Central University at Richmond 
ABBEY AT GETHSEMANE. and Ccutrc Collcge and the Theological Seminary at 

Danville are Presbyterian. Ogden College is at Bowling Green. Berea College, with sev- 
eral interesting buildings on Berea Ridge, overlooking the Blue-Grass country and the 
mountains around Boone's Gap, was founded in 1855, as a school, and in 1858 became a 
college. The leaders were Free-Soil men, and in 1859 they were driven from Kentucky, 
and Berea remained closed until 1865. It is now largely filled with white mountaineers and 
negro lowlanders, more than half its students being colored. There are about 400 students 
(two fifths being women), of whom twenty are in the college department. The Kentucky 
Military Institute was founded in 1845 ^7 West-Point officers, and is at Franklin Springs. 
The buildings form a quadrangle, amid pleasant pastoral scenery. The Louisville Military 
Academy occupies fine new buildings, on a domain of thirty acres. 
Louisville has four medical schools, with nearly 800 students ; and 
schools of dentistry and pharmacy. The Law School of the Univer- 
|||l[ ' . , sity of Louisville dates from 1846, and has 33 students. 

=^^■31'-^^^ The Southern Baptist Theological Seminary is the largest 
^^; '" i.L ' ^^ divmity school m the South, and occupies a handsome mod- 
_;W||yi!ll!p'iW''^'JJ-« ern building. It was opened at Greenville (S. C.) in 1859, 
-Il-'-'!4-^'MlfW'^^jiy^ and transferred to Louisville in 1877. There are 8 instruc- 
h-^-^^-TzlJ-^^^ tors, and 160 students, from a score of States, and from 

Canada and Mexico. Louisville has medical and law schools 
for colored people. The Polytechnic School and library at 
Louisville owns a free library of 42,000 volumes. 

The first newspaper in Kentucky was the Kentucky Gazette, whose career begun at Lex- 
ington in 1787. The Fanners^ Library, the first newspaper in Louisville, made its earliest 
issues in 1807 ; and the Gazette came in 1808. In 1810 The JVestern Courier appeared, at 
Louisville. The Kentucky press now includes 20 daily newspapers, II semi-weeklies, 166 
weeklies, 5 semi-monthlies, and 30 monthlies. Of these 15 are religious, 7 educational, 6 
agricultural, and 5 scientific ; and others are devoted to law, the labor cause, secret societies 
and prohibition. 

The most powerful agency for wielding, moulding and 
reflecting the public opinion of Kentucky and much of the 
South and Southwest is the Louisville Courier- Journal, a 
sturdy Democratic, free-trade, anti-monopoly newspaper, with 
a very large circulation, and an influence far out of proportion 
even to this circulation. The Journal v^zs, founded in 1830 ; 
the Courier, in 1 843 ; and the Democrat, in 1 844 ; and in 
1868 the three were consolidated into the present Courier- 
Journal, which immediately won a place of immense power 
and influence throughout the Ohio and Mississippi Valleys. 
This achievement is largely due to the brilliant and original 
editorials of Henry Watterson, and his intuition of genius and 
inevitable logic of accurate knowledge. The picturesqueness louisville : 




LOUISVILLE : CITY HALL. 




COURIER-JOURNAL 



THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 285 

and fervor of Mr. Watterson's style adorn all subjects treated, with a certain Parisian deli- 
cacy of touch, oftentimes rising into tropical richness and strength. The Weekly Courier- 
Journal is said to have a larger circulation than any other Democratic weekly in the 
United States, or any other Southern newspaper, rising above 100,000 copies each issue. 
The main owner and president of the Courier-yoiirnal company is W. N. Haldeman. 

Population. — The white population includes 47,000 Tennesseeans, 30,000 Virginians, 
27,000 Ohioans, 18,000 Indianians, 9,000 North-Carolinians, 6,000 Illinoisans, 5,000 Mis- 
sourians, 2,000 New-Englanders and i, 150,000 natives. There are 250,000 colored Ken- 
tuckians ; and 60,000 foreigners, half from Germany, and the rest from British soil. 




LOUISVILLE : BIRD'S-EYE VIEW, LOOKING DOWN THE OHIO RIVER. 

Chief Cities, — Louisville, founded in 1778, by George Rogers Clark, and named for 
Louis XVI. of France (then America's best friend), is the metropolis of Kentucky and the 
Lower Ohio, with great and lucrative manufactories and trading enterprises. The Ohio 
descends here 26 feet in two miles, and steamboats pass around these rapids by a canal, 
built in 1826-31. Louisville had a score of inhabitants in 1780, 1,000 in 1810, 70,000 in 
i860 and above 160,000 in 1890. Since the war, "the Falls City" has become the chief 
railroad and steamboat gateway of the Southwest ; and at the same time her annual product 
of manufactured goods has risen from $15,000,000 to $66,000,000. The converging rail- 
ways are united by a belt-line, and two costly bridges across the Ohio connect the Kentucky 
and Indiana systems of track. The clearing-house records show a yearly business of above 
$360,000,000. Louisville has six miles of frontage along the Ohio, above which it rises 
on a plateau seventy feet high, facing the picturesque Indiana Knobs. The many leagues of 
broad and well-paved streets and avenues are lined with pleasant embowered homes, the 
dwelling-places of refined hospitality and courtly grace. Food and fuel, rents and land are 
cheap ; and people of moderate means find here comfortable and pleasant homes. The 
admirable water-supply comes from a reservoir on Crescent Hill, and keeps the local fire- 
losses very low. The city contains 150 churches (including the Catholic and Episcopal 
Cathedrals), seven convents, and many asylums and benevolent institutions. The beautiful 
Cave-Hill Cemetery is one of the best in the South. Foremost among the recent public edi- 
fices are the Custom House, which cost $2,500,000, the new City Hall, the ten-story building 
of the Commercial Club, and the two fine railway stations. 



286 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LOUISVILLE : GALT HOUSE. 



The Gait House is one of the most famous of Southern hotels, and has sheltered Dick- 
ens, Bancroft and all the celebrities visiting Louisville for two generations past. The older 
tavern stood on the site of the Gait family homestead, until its destruction by fire, in 1S65 ; 
and the present hotel was opened in May, 1869, and has since been the favorite home for 
travellers in the Ohio Valley. Henry Whitestone prepared the architectural plans for this 

perfect modern hotel, selecting the Romanesque style, 
as best adapted to a warm climate, and giving the 
structure spacious and noble corridors, lofty ceilings, 
and large rooms. The promise held forth by the fine 
exterior is fulfilled by the imposing effects of the public 
apartments and the studied unity of arrangement and 
effect throughout. The dignity and simplicity of this 
immense building, and its exceeding comfort as a rest- 
ing-place for travellers, make the Gait House among the 
pleasant possessions of thriving Louisville. 

Frankfort, the capital, is oh the Kentucky River, and 
has a large lumber trade. Daniel Boone is buried here. 
Maysville, founded in 1787, and long famous among the borderers as "Limestone Old 
P'ort," is a handsome city nestling among the hills on the Ohio River. Harrodsburg is 
the oldest town in Kentucky, christened amid the bloodshed of long Indian wars. New- 
port and Covington, opposite Cincinnati, have large factories. Paducah maintains an im- 
portant trade on the Ohio, and is the converging point of several railways, and the principal 
market-town of Western Kentucky. Hickman and Columbus are the chief Mississippi- 
River ports ; and at the latter (once celebrated as a fortress), transfer ferry-boats carry trains 
across, and so unite the railway systems. The metropolis of the Blue-Grass country was 
founded in the year of the battle of Lexington, and its settlers gave it the name of the 
heroic Massachusetts village. It is a proud little city, with a large trade and extensive 
live-stock interests. Cynthiana (named for Cynthia and Anna, the daughters of its founder, 
Robert Harrison) marks the beginning of the Blue-Grass country, on the north, and has 
several famous breeding-farms m its vicinity. The wealthy and attractive little city of 
Paris is also surrounded by the paddocks of famous racers. Mount Sterling is the gateway 
to the mountains. 

The Railroads of Kentucky have cost $100,000,000. The Lexington & Ohio, the 
first railway in the West, was begun in 1831 and opened in 1835, from Lexington to Frank- 
fort, having been built at a cost of $1,000,000, largely with Lexington capital. It had flat 
rails laid on stone sleepers. This pioneer line was exte<ided to Louisville in 1847, ^""^ ^^b" 
sequently to Cincinnati. The Louisville & Nashville Railroad owns over 750 miles of track 
in Kentucky, and nearly 2,000 miles in adjacent States. The original stem line from 
Louisville to Nashville was built in 185 1-9. Another great route leads from St. Louis 
.southeast to Evansville, crossing into Kentucky at Henderson, and running to Nashville, 
318 miles in all. The Chesapeake & Ohio Rail- 
way runs from Old Point Comfort and Newport 
News west across the Virginias to Huntington 
(494 miles), and thence along the Kentucky 
shore of the Ohio River to Maysville and Cin- 
cinnati (161 miles). The great iron bridge of 
the Kentucky Central, from Cincinnati to Cov- 
ington, was built in 1S87-8, at a cost of $5,000,- 
000. The Cincinnati, New-Orleans & Texas 
Pacific line (the famous Cincinnati Southern) 
runs south from Cincinnati through the Blue- 
Grass country, and across the grand Cumberland 




THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 



287 




plateau of Tennessee. It has 198 miles in Kentucky, and transports vast quantities of 
wheat to the Gulf States. "This audacious road" (as Edward Atkinson calls it) was 
built by the city of Cincinnati (in 1872-8), at a cost of $21,000,000. High Bridge, over 
the Kentucky River, is the loftiest pier bridge ever built, being 375 feet above low water. 
The Kentucky and Indiana Bridge, from Louisville to New Albany, was built in 1882-6, at 
a cost of .$1, 500,000, and has seven piers of magnificent limestone masonry (and two of iron), 
170 feet high. It is a railway, carriage and foot bridge. The Louisville Bridge, built in 
1868-72, at a cost exceeding $2,000,000, has 27 iron spans, on limestone piers. 

The great Kentucky-River Bridge, remarkable for its skillful engineering devices, was 
huilt l)y the Edge Moor Bridge Company of Wilmington (Del.). 

Finance. — The banking system of Kentucky was founded in 1802, when a com- 
pany received a charter to insure boats bound for the Spanish 
towns in Louisiana, with permission also to issue transfer- 
able notes. The Bank of Kentucky obtained a charter in 
1804, with a capital of $1,000,000. In 1818 the legislature 
chartered forty-six new banks, with an aggregate capital of 
$8,720,000, but these were nearly all wrecked within the year. 
In 1820 the Bank of the Commonwealth was formed, under 
State auspices ; and it captured the Bank of Kentucky. When 
1 President Jackson vetoed the United-States Bank bill, in 1834, 

^ V the legislature endeavored to replace its paper by re-chartering 

^.,r-n-=- •-,_„,.. ^^ Bank of Kentucky, and creating the Bank of Louisville 

LOUISVILLE : BANK OF KENTUCKY. ^^^^ ^^^ Northcm Bank of Kentucky, with a total capital of 
$13,000,000. At the closing of the branch of the Bank of the United States, at Louis- 
ville, the Bank of Kentucky purchased its building, which it still occupies. This was a 
magnificent structure for its day, and even now, though plain in outward appearance, its 
internal arrangements are not surpassed by those of any modern bank. Since the close of 
the bankrupt period of 1837-42 the local banks have been singularly efficient, domestic 
in system, honest in management, wisely supervised and in part controlled by the State, 
standing as the ever-ready supports of business, and giving the people (until the Govern- 
ment taxed their circulation out of existence) the best currency west of the Alleghany 
Mountains. In 186 1 the Bank of Kentucky had eight branches in the State. The perils 
and losses incident to the war rendered it imperative upon the bank to reduce its circula- 
tion, and to withdraw all of its branches, except the one at the capital of the State, which 
is now in operation. All the older banks weathered the storm of 1857, and maintained 
specie payments, but called in much of their paper, the remainder of which became the 
standard for the Ohio Valley. In 1859 their circulation reached $14,000,000, and their 
good credit enabled them to withstand the extreme 
adversities of the civil war. The venerable and historic 
Bank of Kentucky ranks as one of the strongest finan- 
cial institutions in the United States, and has no rival in 
the great South. With a paid-in capital of $1,645, ioo> 
and a surplus of over $1,000,000, this conservative 
(yet enterprising) corporation, under the presidency of 
Thomas L. Barret, is a great factor in the business, not 
only of Louisville but of the State of Kentucky. 

As to the finances of the State, there are but few 
commonwealths in the Union that can have more cash 
in the treasury than the amount of the bonds and 
flouting debt combined. Yet this was the condition 
of Kentucky in 1 880 and in 1 890 ; and indicates the 
general thrift of the Commonwealth. 








-1^§- 



LOUISVILLE : UNITED-STATES CUSTOM HOUSE. 



288 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




Ii§^ 




LOUISVILLE : SOUTHERN BAPTIST 
THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY. 



Religion. — One of the largest religious sects in Ken- 
tucky is that of the Disciples of Christ, or Christians, 
frequently called Campbellites, avoiding creeds and dog- 
mas, and striving to unite all Christians with no other 
term of religious communion except faith in the Lord 
Jesus Christ and obedience to His laws. Alexander 
Campbell, a young Scotch-Irishman, began to preach this 
doctrine in i8io, and continued until his death, in 1866, 
with great learning and eloquence, advocating a return to apostolic simplicity, throughout 
West Virginia, Kentucky and other interior States. The communion thus founded increases 
mightily. It has 6, 500 churches and 650,000 communicants. President Garfield wasa Disciple. 
Another interesting religious outgrowth of this region is the Cumberland Presbyterian 
Church, now one of the great denominations of America. About the year 1800 the Cum- 
berland country, then recently settled by Virginians and Carolinians, was over-swept by a 
fervid revival of religion. The conservative element in the Presbyterian Church deplored 
this spiritual awakening, but the Cumberland Presbytery, favored it, and even allowed 
theological candidates to adopt the Confession of Faith with reservations (especially as to 
decrees and election), and to become preachers without having had classical educations. 
The Synod of Kentucky dissolved Cumberland Presbytery, and cut off its dissenting mem- 
bers ; and these latter in 1810 formed the independent Cumberland Presbytery, out of 
which has grown the present powerful denomination. Among its beliefs are these : There 
are no eternal reprobates. Christ died for all mankind. All dying infants are saved. The 
Holy Spirit acts on the world. These are very liberal principles, and have attracted many 
adherents, the Cumberland Presbyterians now numbering 173,000 communicants, with six 
colleges and efficient home and Japanese missions. 

Kentucky has been hallowed by generations of Catholic missions, ever since 181 1, when 
the Church founded among the Maryland colonists at Bardstown the first bishopric of the 
West, with spiritual authority reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Many priests and 
monks fled from France to these peaceful solitudes during the French Revolution. In 1849 
a band of forty-five monks from the Abbey of La Melleraye founded a Trappist Abbey at 
Gethsemane, sixty miles from Louisville, and their great stone buildings and chapels still 
stand, in a rich domain of 700 acres, and give shelter to a band of silent, laborious and 
prayerful monks. No Americans have entered this austere brotherhood. The first physician 
and the first schoolmaster in Kentucky were Catholics. The sisterhood at Loretto was 
founded in 181 2, by Father Rininck. The Catholics hold the greatest value in property. 

The first Protestant-Episcopal confirmation occurred at Lexington in 1829, and in 1832 
the diocese of Kentucky came into being, untler Bishop B. B. Smith. The first Methodist 
Church rose in 1786, in Mason County, and Bishops Asbury and McKendree were among its 
early leaders. The Methodist have 1,000 churches, 120,000 members, and 500,000 adherents. 

Manufactures doubled between i860 and 
1885, when they numbered 5,219 establishments, 
with a capital of $57,000,000, and yearly pro- 
ducts valued at $103,000,000. Among the chief 
items are : Flour, $16,000,000; lumber, $6,000,- 
000; iron and steel, $18,000,000; agricultural 
implements, $3,000,000; carriages, $13,000,000; 
and meat products, $6,000,000. The oak-forests 
and stock farms of the region have given rise to a 
large trade in oak-tanned leather, for soles, har- 
ness and belting, and the 22 Louisville tanneries 
turn out this valuable commodity to the extent of $2,500,000 a year. Louisville makes 
yearly 40,000 tons of cast-iron gas and water pipes. The recent development of iron-making 



■ = 






M 




•cjy-'Vj.-JJ 


Jfc^g 


1^ 








^^n 



LOUISVILLE : WESTERN CEMENT WORKS. 



THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 



289 







-'-'i^-1- 




1 




1 




' ' " ''Xb 


Ullll^E 


it 


1 


1 




Hi 


BlPrTK 


Pf 


H 



LOUISVILLE : WESTERN CEMENT WORKS. 



cities in various parts of the State, from Grand 
Rivers to Middlesborough, has a tendency to in- 
crease the manufacturing here, and to awaken the 
ingenuity of the people in many ways. The centre 
of population in the United States is near Kentucky, 
the meeting-ground of the alertness of the South 
and the diligence of the North. 

The cement-mills of Louisville and vicinity pro- 
duce vast quantities of the best cement, which finds 
a market all over the West. The manufacture of 
Louisville cement began in 1829. Most of the pro- 
duct of the then small mill was used in the construction of the Louisville and Portland Canal, 
where now, after a period of more than fifty years, and, notwithstanding the rude process 
and the small quantity manufactured, the cement is not only in a perfect state of preservation, 
but has attained a degree of hardness that indicates its durability for all time to come. Louis- 
ville cement has been used in every character of work with marked success. Its strong 
hydraulic qualities render it particularly valuable in subterraneous structures. In the con- 
struction of water-works, sewers and bridges, and in concrete foundations for bridges and 
streets, it has been used in every State and Territory in the West and South. The consump- 
tion of Louisville cement west of 
the Alleghany Mountains is larger 
than that of all other varieties 
combined. All mills producing 
standard brands of Louisville ce- 
ment are represented by the Wes- 
tern Cement Association, whose 
sales in 1889 were 1,338,464 
barrels. The Association repre- 
sents the riulme. Speed, Queen- 
City, Falls-City, Black-Diamond 
(River), Black-Diamond (Rail- 
road), Silver-Creek, Ohio-Valley, 
and Eagle mills. 

An immense and important Louisville industry, called forth by the needs of the agricul- 
tural communities of the Ohio Valley and the South, is the Kentucky Wagon Manufacturing 
Company's Works, the best-arranged establishment for making farm-wagons in the world, 
and with the largest capacity. The works cover thirty acres, and have eight acres of roofing, 
and three miles of railroad, besides special water-works and electric lights. The great object 
of study has been to have the lumber come in at one end, and pass straight along until it 
emerges at the other end as finished wagons, without any unnecessary handling. Black 
hickory for axles, white oak for running gear, yellow poplar for sides and ends, and yellow 
pine for wagon bottoms, each leaves the lumber yard and passes forward, always under 
close scrutiny for imperfections, until finally the assembled 
parts emerge from the paint shop in the form of an Old- 
Hickory or a Tennessee wagon, cheap, convenient and 
durable, and destined for many years of usefulness on the 
Reelfoot lowlands, or over the Cumberland hills, or in dis- 
tant States, whose farmers have long since learned the merit 
of these wagons. Full 500 men are employed in this estab- 
lishment, whose products are widely diffused over the world. 
Louisville leads the world in the manufacture of plows, 
and has introduced her wares not only into nearly every louisviule : court-house 




LOUISVILLE . KENTUCKY WAGON MANUFACTURING CO.'S WORKS. 




29c 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




B. F. AVERY & SONS PLOW WORKS. 



the 



county in the Union, but also into Mexico 
and South America, as well as into Australia 
and other remote countries. The business 
was founded in 1848 by 15. F. Avery, a New- 
Yorker, who had been operating a foundry 
in Virginia since 1825. The B, F. Avery 
& Sons' plow works occupy six acres of 
brick buildings, independent of outlying 
yards for lumber and other supplies ; and 
give regular employment to 600 men and 
$1,500,000 of capital. The annual pro- 
duct exceeds 200,000 plows, besides thou- 
sands of tons of blades and incidental plow 

parts. Fully 143 different kinds of plows and cultivators are made here (not includinf; 
variety of sizes of each kind). The reputation of the factory is especially high in connection 
with the peculiar adaptability and superiority of Avery plows for cotton, as well as general 
farming in the Southern and Southwestern States. It supplies equally well a light garden 
plow, an ordinary plow for medium work, the special plow for the sugar lands of Louisiana 
and Cuba ; another class for the sticky black land of Texas, the chilled plow for rocky fields, 
and the riding or sulky plow for breaking up a prairie, as well as the huge and powerful rail- 
road plow, for tearing to pieces a macadamized street. Here the cast or chilled plows are 
moulded and ground ; the steel plows, starting in as slabs of steel, are sheared, pressed, 
welded and fitted into shape, and then tempered and polished ; and millions of feet of selected 
white-oak timber are cut, steamed, bent and finished into shape as plow beams and handles. 
All the iron and wooden parts of plows are made here, high quality of material, workmanship 
and finish being the foremost considerations ; and the lumber, pig-iron and steel which enter 
the works leave in the form of cultivating implements adapted for the soil of Kentucky, or 
Ceylon, or Brazil. 

At Louisville are the main works of the greatest hickory handle manufacturers of the 
world — the Turner, Day & Wool worth Manufacturing Company. They make hickory 
for axes, adzes, picks, sledges, hatchets, hammers, tools, etc. These 
are sold and shipped to every State in the Union 
and to almost every country on the globe. The 
business was founded in Connecticut about thirty- 
five years ago, afterwards moved to Baltimore, 
and in 1877 settled at Louisville, to get as close 
to their timber as possible without losing all the 
advantages of a large manufacturing city. Here 
is done chiefly the finishing of the handles made 
from the timber which has been sawed to various 
lengths in the rough at their dozen or more mills in various parts of Kentucky and Ten- 
nessee. Upwards of 250 men are employed at Louisville, 100 at their factory at Bowling 
Green and about 175 at the saw-mills, giving a total force of about 500 men. The use of 
hickory handles is quite large, and the many patterns of each kind are numerous. For 
instance, there are nearly 100 different patterns of axe handles. The capital of the Turner, 
Day & Woolworth Manufacturing Company is $400,000; but this only vaguely represents 
the value of the properties. 

Kentucky whisky properly made and aged has given this State the chief markets of all 
the Union for the sale of her famous product. Its manufacture and storage constitute one 
of the leading industries of Kentucky. The capital invested reaches far into the millions, 
and the product carries $1 5,000,000 yearly into the Federal Treasury. Most whisky is made 
from grain — usually from corn, rye and malt — the latter indispensable to a certain extent. 



handles of all kind? 




^f '%riii|i|i 

LOUISVILLE TURNER, DAY i WOOLWORTH. 



THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 



291 



The grain is reduced to meal, which is scalded in order to break up the starch-cells and 
liberate the starch, to be converted into grape-sugar by the diastase of the malt. The 
whole mass then goes into a fermenter, and from the presence of yeast undergoes the 
vinous fermentation, which by obscure processes produces a variety of new compounds, 
alcohol and carbonic-acid gas, and a number of oils and acids in limited quantities. The 
carbonic-acid gas escapes ; and the whisky, with or without the oils or other products, is 
separated from the residual by distillation. The generic term whisky embraces several 
species known as spirits, continuous, Bourbon and rye. Bourbon, the term used generally 

to designate Kentucky whisky, is again subdivided into 
sweet and sour mash. Spirits is the product of distilla- 
tion so conducted as to take out everything except the 
water and alcohol. This compound is fixed, and re- 
mains the same at the end of three years as when 
first made. It has a sweetish, pungent, alcoholic taste, 
without any aroma or bouquet, and without any agree- 
able flavor. It forms the base of all compounded whisky 
— the word "compound" meaning a mixture of spirits 
and Bourbon or rye whisky. The term Bourbon is ap- 
plied to Kentucky whisky made from a mixture of 
corn, rye and malt, of which the corn constitutes the 
larger part. In its distillation some of the oils and acids are allowed to remain. These, 
with age, undergo chemical action, and are converted into aromatic ethers, pleasant to the 
taste and agreeable to the stomach. While the principal product 




HENDERSON BRIDOE. 



of Kentucky is Bour- 
sour mash, theie 
of rye whisky ^' 
This species is pro- 




bon, sweet and 
is a large quantity 
!«P made annually, 
duced from rye 
all other respects 
as the Bourbon, 
say why certain 
certain liquors su- 
what can be pro- 
The generally accepted theory 



and malt, and \\\ 
is made and treated 
It is not easy to 
localities produce 

perior in quality to kentucky-river bridge. 

duced in any other locality. Yet this is known to be so. 
is that vinous ferment is set up by an organism or living cell, which is most likely, to a 
great extent, influenced by climate, water, air, and 
soil. Kentucky has been found liy long experience 
(as shown by the consensus of opinion of the 
United States) to produce whisky of a quality 
superior to that which is produced in any other 
section. The reason for this lies in the fact that 
Kentucky is peculiarly adapted to the growth of 
that particular species of organism capable of 
forming yeast of that character which alone pro- 
duces whisky of the highest quality. This nat- 
ural advantage exists to a much greater extent in some than in other sections of 
Kentucky, and judging from the experience of the last century the interior of the 
State is the most highly favored. Having the advantage of an interior location in the 
sections of Kentucky more or less underlaid with limestone, the quality of whisky produced 
depends on the intelligence and skill applied to the equipment and management of the 
plant. Negligence of the conditions necessary to the propagation of the yeast cell ; grain 
of inferior quality, and warehouses damp and illy ventilated, are more than enough to undo 
all that nature has done for Kentucky in the preparation for making and aging whisky. No 




COVINGTON ; 



&. O. BRIDGE ACROSS THE OHIO. 



292 



A'INC'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




ATHERTON THE J. M. ATHERTON DISTILLERY 



process has yet been found which takes 
the place of time in maturing whisky. 
The improvement results from the ac- 
tion of the oxygen of the air on the 
compounds produced by the fermenta- 
tion. It will thus be seen at a glance 
that the natural advantage which Ken- 
tucky holds over the rest of the Union 
for producing fine whisky must in its 
application be aided by a good location ; 
by the use of pure water and grain of 
the best quality, mixed in proper proportions ; by intelligent distillation ; and by storage for 
aging in dry, clean warehouses supplied with an abundance of fresh air, always to be had in 
the country and seldom or never to be found in and about the cities. New whisky, wherever 
made, is unfit for internal use. In fact, the words Kentucky whisky mean a whisky in which 
age has changed the original oils into new compounds at once harmless and agreeable. 

The distilleries of The J. M. Atherton Company are near New Haven, in Nelson County, 
a region that has long been famous as one of the three or four localities producing the 
finest Kentucky whiskies ; the product of each locality retaining, to a certain degree, its 
own characteristic flavor. The Atherton distillery was built here in 1867, and the Ather- 
ton brand established at that time. It was a small frame structure, with a capacity of ten 
barrels of whisky per day. The Mayfield distillery was built in 1869. The plant now 
consists of three distilleries, with a daily mashing capacity of 2,200 bushels of grain, pro- 
ducing 225 barrels of whisky ; ten warehouses, having a total storage capacity of over 
100,000 barrels ; cooperage works which can turn out 225 barrels per day; and extensive 
cattle barns, machine shops, and offices. The entire premises embrace more than forty 
acres, connected with the Louisville & Nashville Railroad by three miles of track owned 
and operated by The J. M. Atherton Company. The distillery buildings and warehouses 
are of brick ; the equipment is the most improved modern machinery and distilling appa- 
ratus ; and the warehouses are thoroughly ventilated and heated by steam. Only the 
highest grades of Kentucky whiskies — Bourbon, sour-mash and rye — are made, under the 
brands "Atherton," "Mayfield," "Windsor," "Clifton," "Carter," and others. 

Another of these world-renowned distillery plants is that of the "O. F. C." and Car- 
lisle Distilleries, founded at Frankfort in 1870, and since 1879 conducted by The E. 11. 
Taylor, Jr., Company. The product is wholesaled exclusively by The Geo. T. Stagg 
Company. The distilleries cover twenty acres, on the Kentucky River, with two separate 
distillery buildings, warehouses, elevators, cattle-pens and smaller buildings. They are 
acknowledged to be, for amount of daily mash, the best equipped and finest distilleries in 
the world. Many men are employed in 
the cooper shops and in the distilleries, 
manufacturing packages to contain the 
product and aiding in the conversion of 
corn, rye and malt into spirituous liquors. 
The special grades prepared here are 
"O. F. C. Hand-made Sour-mash" and 
"Carlisle Standard Sour- mash " whiskies, 
both singled and doubled in copper. 
Many veteran connoisseurs bear constant 
witness to the purity and excellence of 
the brands, their rare flavor and healthful 
tonic benefits. Only high grade goods are 
manufactured at these distilleries. 




FRANKFORT : 



H. TAYLOR, JR 



DISTILLERY. 




I,66i 

• ■ 59 
. . QOI 

• • 1.759 
.562 
. . 62,402 

S24,205,ii<3 
12,167 



Among the first visitors to 
Louisiana were the Span- 
ish men-at-arms of Dc 
Soto's expedition, under 

Muscorrn who after the 
. . . » 

death of their chief, in 1542, 

descended the Mississippi 

in rude brigantines, and 

went out to sea. In 1682 
the lirave Sieur de la Salle floated down the great riv^r 
from the Illinois River to the Gulf, and took possession of 
the country in the name of France, erecting pillars on the 
banks of the Mississippi to show that it was French terri- 
tory. Four years later, La Salle came from France to 
occupy Louisiana, but his fleet failed to find the Missis- 
sippi, and landed on the Texan coast, where La Salle 
died, and most of his men starved to death. In 1699 
another expedition was sent from France to Louisiana, un- 
der Iberville. It landed at what is now Ocean Springs, Miss- 
issippi, and established there a settlement, named Biloxi. 
Iberville and his brother Bienville sailed up Lakes Pont- 
cliartrain and Maurepas, and explored the ISIississippi River, 
from Natchez to the (lulf. The first settlement in Louisi- 
ana was made by Iberville, 70 miles up the Mississippi, 
in 1700, as a military colony, to prevent the English from 
ascending the river. Louisiana was given to Antoine Crozat 
in 1 7 12, with exclusive control from Canada to the Gulf. 
Six years later, Crozat relinquished this vast but unprofit- 
able empire, and it passed into the possession of the West- 
ern Company, organized by John Law. In the same year, 
Bienville was appointed governor, and moved the settle- 
ment from Biloxi. New Orleans was founded in 1718, 
with 68 inhabitants, the only other settlement in Louisiana 
being at Natchitoches. The arrival of several fleets of 
French immigrants increased the population ; and in 1722, Louisiana contained 4,820 
whites and 600 negroes, and the capital was moved to New Orleans. The next 20 
years were taken up in Indian wars. The French joined forces with the Choctaws, and 



Settled at Bilo: 

Settled in 

Founded by ... IVenchmen. 
Admitted as a State, . . 1812 

I'opulation, in i860, , . . 708,002 

In 1870, 726,91s 

In 1880, 939,946 

White, 454,054 

Colored, 4''4,992 

American-born, . . . 885,800 
Foreign-born, . . . 54,146 
Males, ..... 468,754 
Fem.iles, 471,102 

In 1890 (U. S. census), . 1,118,587 
Population to the square mile, 20.7 
V'olniK Population, . . . 216,787 

Vote for Harrison (1888), 30,663 

Vote for Cleveland (1888), 85,032 
Net State debt, . . $12,513,214.92 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (i8go), . . §234,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 48,720 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 6 

Militia (Disciplined), . . . 

Counties, 

Post-offices 

Railroads (miles), .... 
Vessels 

Tonnage 

Manufactures (yearly), 

Operatf 



Yearly Wages, . . . 84,358,841 
Farm Land (in acres), . . 8,273,506 

F'arm-Land Values, §58.989,117 

Farm Products (ycarl)), $42,883,522 
Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 90,551 
Newspapers, . .... 173 

Latitude, . . . 89° to 94° N. 

Longitude, . . . 28°56' to 33° W. 

Temperature 1° to 107° 

ISIean Temperature (New 

Orleans), 69° 

lEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POl'l - 

LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

New Orleans, 242,039 

S breve port, ... . . 11,979 

liaton l<ouge, 10,478 

New Iberia, 3,.147 

Lake Charles 3,442 

(Gretna, 3,332 

Monroe, . . 3,256 

Plaqueinine, 3,222 

Donaldsonvillc, 3,121 

Alexandria 2,861 



294 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE LNITED STATES. 




nearly annihilated the Natchez tribe, but the Chickasaws 
took up the Natchez cause, and the French were frequently 
defeated, even with Bienville in command. In 1764 the 
Louisianians were^otified that their country had been ceded 
to Spain, and the next year Antonio de UUoa arrived to become 
governor. The people were opposed to Spanish rule, and 
finally taking possession of New Orleans, they sent Ulloa away 
on an outbound ship, and established a government of their own, 
NEW ORLEANS: ANCIENT COURT-HOUSE, sending delcgatcs to France to ask the King to again occupy 
Louisiana. Their request being refused, the insurgents contemplated the establishment of a 
republic ; but in 1769, Don Alexander O'Reilly arrived as the Spanish governor, with 2,600 
troops and 50 guns. The rebellion was suppressed, and its leaders were shot on the Place 
d'Armes at New Orleans. At that time the province was defined as extending northward 
to the source of the Mississippi, and westward to the Pacific Ocean. During the War of the 
Revolution, the Spanish governor, Galvez, aided the Americans by supplying them with 
powder, by way of the Mississippi; and in 1779-80, he led an army, largely of Louisiana 
Creoles, against the British in Florida, capturing Baton Rouge, Mobile and Pensacola, with 
their garrisons. After the Revolution, the United States claimed and occupied the east 
bank of the Mississippi down to Red River. The 
west bank remained in possession of Spain. East 
of the great river, the Spanish "held the Island of 
Orleans, between the Mississippi, the lakes and 
Bayou Manchac. The country north of this, as far 
as the American possessions, was held by England 
as a portion of West Florida. As the Mississippi 
Valley became more and more favored by Ameri- 
can settlers, the narrow policy of the Spaniards be- 
came offensive to the people of the young Republic. 
Envoys of Spain endeavored to persuade Kentucky 
and Tennessee to secede from the Union, and join Louisiana ; but the American political 
leaders pocketed their money and gave them no results. In 1801, the great province was 
ceded back to France, but the treaty was kept secret. Napoleon intended to send hither 
Gen. Victor and 25,000 choice French troops, to firmly establish a noble New France in the 
west. But the supremacy of Great Britain on the sea rendered this move impossible, and 
left the country without defence. Unable to garrison the new domain, and fearing that 
England would seize it. Napoleon made haste to sell the province to the United States, 
receiving $12,000,000, over and above which the American Government bound itself to 
pay the French Spoliation claims, amounting to $4,000,000..- The 
Spanish standard gave place to the French tri-color in 1803, 
amid splendid military ceremonies; and on December i8th, the 
American troops, marching from Fort Adams, entered New Or- 
leans, and the Stars and Stripes fluttered upward over the Place 
d'Armes. 

The larger part of the present Louisiana was formed into 
the Territory of Orleans, in 1804. In 1810 the parishes east of 
the Mississippi, and north of Bayou Manchac (then held by 
Spain), revolted, and set up "the republic of West Florida." 
They asked for admission to the Union, but met with refusal, 
and Gov. Claiborne annexed the territory to Louisiana. Late 
in 1814, Gen. Pakenham's British army of 14,450 men landed 
from Admiral Cochran's squadron, and advanced by Lake Borgne 
against New Orleans. After several days of sharp fighting, the 




EADS JETTIES : MOUTH OF MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 




777^ STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



295 




FETIT ANSE. 



invaders made a grand assault (January 8, 1815) on 
Gen. Jackson's lines, defended by 3,500 Tennessee, 
Kentucky, and Louisiana riflemen, and were repulsed 
with a loss of 3,000 men, including three generals. A 
few days later, they took ship and sailed away. 

A convention in Baton Rouge, February 26, 1861, 
voted in favor of secession from the Union. Forts 
Jackson, St. Philip, Livingston, and Pike and the 
United-States Arsenal at Baton Rouge had already 
been seized. In April, 1862, Farragut and 47 Ameri- 
can war-vessels, with 310 guns, sunk the Confederate 
iron-clads and gunboats in the Mississippi, and ran 
past the forts. Gen. Butler soon followed with his army, and New Orleans, at the mercy 
of Farragut's guns, was occupied and thereafter held by the Union troops, who also garri- 
soned Baton Rouge and held the riparian parishes. Gen. N. P. Banks took command in 
December. In 1864, he advanced up the Red River to attack Shreveport, the Confederate 
capital of the State. Though supported by Admiral Porter's fleet, his army was beaten at 
Mansfield, and was forced to retreat for many days, fighting all the time, to and beyond 
Alexan<h'ia. 

For many years after the military government ceased in Louisiana, the State was per- 
turbed by political conflicts, caused by the determined efforts of the minority of white 

Democrats to wrest the government from the hands 
of the Republicans, numerically much stronger, but 
largely composed of ignorant negroes. 

The Population of Louisiana is singularly diver- 
sified as to language and race. Among the negroes 
in the southern parishes, "gumbo," or so-called 
Creole French, is common ; and in the prairie country 
Acadian or "Cajun" French is largely used, both 
being corrupt dialects. The Spanish formerly spoken 
in portions of St. Bernard, Lafourche and Iberia has 
given way to French or English, although the people 
retain their Spanish names. In the southwestern 
parishes, Lafourche, Terrebonne, St. Martin, St. Mary's, Iberia, Acadia, Lafayette and St. 
Landry, dwell the descendants of the Acadians who were banished from Nova Scotia in 
1755. Like the French Canadians, they are a prolific race, and have increased from 7,500 
to 200,000, constituting a large majority of Louisiana's French-speaking population. A 
distinction is still drawn between them and the "Creoles," the descendants of the original 
French settlers, and the large number of people who came to Louisiana after the San- 
Domingo massacre and the expulsion of the whites from Hayti. The parishes of St. 
Charles, St. James, St. John the Baptist and As- 
cension, formerly known as "The German Coast," 
were settled by colonists from Alsace. Their 
descendants have become thoroughly Creolized, 
although still bearing their German names. The 
Spanish settlers were mainly Catalans, and Is- 
lingues, as the Canary-Islanders were called. The 
latter constitute a majority of the people in St.- 
Bernard parish. The Italian population has in- 
creased rapidly within 20 years. In New Orleans 
alone they number over 20,000 ; and abound 
throughout the sugar-districts, where they com- new Orleans old gate— Spanish fort? 




LAKE CHARLES. 




296 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEW ORLEANS : JACKSON SQUARE. 



pete in plantation work with the negroes. The 
cosmopolitan character of the population appears 
in New Orleans, where only 1 8. 2 per cent, of the 
inhabitants are of English or American descent, 
17.4 French, 15.4 German, 13.8 Irish, 7.8 Italian, 
and 2.7 Spanish. The dark races comprise the 
remainder, 15 per cent, being negroes of pure 
descent and 9.6. of mixed races, ranging from 
octoroons (seven eighths white) to mulattoes 
(half-breeds). Among th-e negroes there is a large 
element of Indian blood, the original Indian slaves 
having disappeared by intermarriage with them. Besides these, there are a number of 
Malays (called in Louisiana the "Manila men"), Chinese, and Indians (mostly of the 
Choctaw race). The negroes, who formerly constituted a large majority, are giving way 
before the greater prolificness of the Acadians ; and in southern Louisiana the whites are in 
a majority, whereas north of Red River the population is two to one negro, and in some 
parishes ten to one. 

The Name of Louisiana was given by La Salle, in honor of Louis XIV., King of 
France, "Le Grand Monarque." The popular name is The Pelican State, derived from 
the symbols on the State arms. It is also some- 
times called The Creole State, 

The Arms of Louisiana show a pelican, 
standing in a protecting attitude 9ver her nest, 
and feeding the birdlings with her own blood. 
Above her head are the evenly-balanced scales 
of Justice, with 18 stars, in a half circle. The 
motto is Union, Justice and Confidence. 

The Governors of Louisiana since the 
purchase from France have been: Territorial : 
Wm. C. C. Claiborne, 1804-12. State: Wm 




UNITED-STATES MINT. 



NEW ORLEANS : 

C. C. Claiborne, 1813-16; Jas. Villere, 
1816-20; Tlios. Rolling Robertson, 1820-4; H. S. Thibodaux (acting), 1824; Henry Johnson, 
1824-8; Peter Derbigny, 1S2S-9; A. Beauvais (acting), 1829-30; Jacques Dupre (acting). 
1 830- 1 ; Andre Bienvenu Roman, 1830-4, and 1838-41; Edward D. White, 1834-8; 
Alexander Mouton, 1841-5; Isaac Johnson, 1845-50; Joseph Walker, 1850-4; Paul O. 
Hebert, 1854-8; Robert C. Wickliffe, 1858-60; Thos. C). Moore, 1860-3; Michael Hahn 
was elected governor in 1863 over the region under Federal control, while Henry W. Allen 
was governor of the Confederate portion ; Jas. Madison Wells, 
1865-7; B. F. Flanders (military), 1867-8; Henry C. War- 
moth, 1868-72; Wm. Pitt Kellogg {de facto), 1872-7 ; John 
McEnery (Democratic claimant), 1872-7; Francis T. Nicholls, 
1S77-80; Louis Alfred Wiltz, 1880-1 ; Samuel D. McEnery, 
1881-8; and Francis T. Nicholls, 188S-92. 

Descriptive. — The Creole State is 2S0 miles from north to 
south, and 298 miles from east to west, the bordering common- 
wealths being Mississippi, Arkansas and Texas. The Louis- 
iana lowlands cover 20,000 square miles of alluvial and swamp 
lands, and the upland prairies and forests include 25,000 square 
miles. The average elevation is 75 feet, with hils of nearly 500 
feet in the north, whence the land slopes away to the south 
and east. The Mississippi flows cfov^ai the country on the top 
of a ridge, which it has formed by its deposits of drift. Above 
CHALMETTE i BATTLE MONUMENT. Baton Rougc, the tivcr is bordcrcd by bluffs, which, at Port 




297 




NEW ORLEANS : URSULINE CONVENT. 



Ai* 



THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 

Hudson, reach lOO feet in height. The alluvial dis- 
tricts include the bottom-lands of the great rivers, hav- 
ing a breadth of from 20 to 60 miles along the Mississippi, 
and from twelve to 20 along the Red and Ouachita ; and 
covering about one fourth of Louisiana, with 4,800,000 
acres of rich arable front land, in high and profitable 
cultivation ; falling backward by long slopes into im- 
mense areas of swamps, adapted in the southern part of 
the State to rice-culture. The soil is black, dark-red, 
and reddish-gray, and of incomparable fertility and inexhaustible depth. More than one 
eighth of Louisiana (4,600,000 acres) is included in the Coast Marsh, extending inland 30 
miles, and sometimes overflowed by the Gulf, after long-continued southwestern winds. The 
banks of the streams, and the islands and chcnicrcs (oak -groves) in the marsh are cultivated. 
Since 18S0, large tracts have been drained and improved, in St. -Mary's, Terrebonne, Cal- 
casieu, and Cameron Parishes. Much of this area rises but ten feet above the water, and 
the delta of the Mississippi is largely a morass, below the level of the river, a great part of it 
in Marais tremblantcs or floating prairie. A large portion of the Coast Marsh west of the 
delta is owned by a syndicate; that on the east is given over to hunting and fishing, and a 

number of New-Orleans sportsmen's clubs are 
located there. The six Teche parishes were 
truly called by Longfellow the "Eden of Louis- 
iana," and cover an area equal to that of Con- 
necticut, with exuberantly fertile grassy prai- 
ries, broken by silvery bayous and noble 
forests, and fanned by the Gulf breezes. Here 
the Teche winds through "the Sugar-Bowl of 
Louisiana;" and the wonderful prairies of 
Opelousas and Attakapas run inland for 100 
miles. On Orange Island, in Iberia, is the 
estate of Joseph Jefferson, with noble live-oaks 
and magnolia and orange groves, and 5,000 
cattle. There are several other similar islands — • 
Petit Anse, Cote Blanche, etc., which are simply small hills rising out of the swamp. 

In the southwest is the land of prairies, covering 2,800,000 acres, and traversed by 
silvery coulees and dense inarais. Tlie rich grasses of the plains sustain herds of cattle and 
horses ; and large areas are cultivated for cotton, sugar-cane and corn. Calcasieu, the chief 
of the prairie parishes, is two thirds as large as Connecticut, and has lately received many 
immigrants from the Western States. 

More than half of Louisiana is covered with the valuable and merchantable yellow pines 
of the Red-River uplands and the southeastern parishes, nearly 50,000,000,000 feet being 
reported as in the forests, the largest in the South. 
The cypress of the Mississippi and Atchafalaya 
swamps, and the oaks of the north, have consider- 
able commercial importance. In the south occur 
numerous islands of live-oaks, a wood so valuable 
for ship-building that large tracts of it were reserved 
for the United-States Navy The mysterious forests 
of the lower Mississippi contain myriads of tall 
cypresses, with their silken foliage, and palmettoes, 
with vivid green spears. Here and there spread 
broad cane-brakes, and prairies dotted with mag- 
nificent live-oaks and magnolias, rich in fragrant new Orleans ; cathedral st. louis. 







■"^w^*- — 




chalmette : national cemetery. 




KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




corporation. 



298 

white blossoms. Over the trees are draped garlands of grape-vines and ghostly streamers 
of gray Spanish moss. 

Among the largest lumber and shingle mills in the South are those of the Louisiana 
Cypress Lumber Company, Limited, with its offices at Harvey (La.) and Chicago (111.), 

and its mills at Harvey, opposite New Orleans. 
This corporation owns 50,000 acres of forest- 
land, from which it draws vast supplies of tim- 
ber ; and for the further treatment of this product 
I lie company has shingle and saw mills, dry-kilns 
and machine-shops, and other works, employing 
altogether nearly 500 men. The great plant at 
Harvey is one of the leading industries of Louis- 
iana. It is favorably located for home and foreign 
sliipments to various countries. Cypress is a most 
durable lumber, and it is a fortunate circamstance 
"^ that Louisiana has such great areas of it, under 
"^ ' iriuu. j^j^g efficient control of a wealthy and energetic 

No other American house handles such quantities of cypress, both in lumber 
of all grades, and in shingles. Its capacity in shingles alone is a million a day. 

Among the many departments of trade growing out of the agricultural wealth of Louis- 
iana and the adjacent States, one of the most indispensable is that of stave-making, not 
only for the local products but for certain foreign industries as well. A representative 
house in this line is Bobet Brothers of New Orleans, whose manufacture and shipment 
of staves employ a large capital, and many workmen. This strong and conservative firm 
has the advantage of many years of intimate ac- 
quaintance with their trade, for it was founded long 
before the Civil War, by J. S. Bobet, whose sons 
have succeeded to its ownership. The Bobet oak- 
staves are known everywhere as the best to be ob- 
tained, and the firm consequently ranks as the 
largest in its line in Louisiana. Fully 4,000,000 
oak -staves have been received from the interior 
(mainly by river), by this firm, in a single year ; and 
shipped to Spain and Portugal and other European 
countries, to be made into casks and barrels for new oklf v hds. 

wines and other liquors. The firm has large yards on the bank of the river, where their 
staves are ranked up and assorted into classes, after which they are shipped abroad, to be 
worked up for their various uses. 

Including its bays, Louisiana has a coast-line of 1,256 miles on the Gulf; and its Chan- 
deleur and other islands have a thousand miles more. Isle-Au-Breton Sound and Chande- 
leur Sound form good roadsteads. The great curve of coast from Atchafalaya Bay to Cat 
Island is a perfect maze of islands and peninsulas, bays and bayous, abounding in fish and 
water-fowl. The coast is lined with land-locked tidal bays and sounds, cutting into the 
melancholy swamps. Among these are Lakes Borgne, Pontchartrain, and Maurepas, near 

New Orleans ; the Bays of Barrataria, Timbalier, Terre- 
bonne, Caillou, Atchafalaya, Cote-Blanche and Vermilion, 
west of the Mississippi delta ; and Lake Calcasieu and 
Sabine Lake, in the southwest. The bayous are secondary 
outlets of the rivers, and some very sluggish rivers are also 
called by this name. They cover the alluvial region with 
an intricate net-work of channels, valuable for navigation 
NEW ORLEANS: THE FRENCH MARKET. and draining. The lakes on Red River were mainly caused 





THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



299 




by the great raft, which dammed up 
that stream and caused it to overflow, 
and since its destruction they have 
diminished in area, and some of them 
have become dry, the land being culti- 
vated. The raft was an impassable 
tangle of logs and other rubbish, fill- 
ing the Red River for 35 miles. It 
was removed between 1837 ^"^' i^73> 
by the herculean efforts of the United- lake borgne ; shell beach. 

States Engineers, and at vast expense. Lake Pontchartrain is a land-locked salt-water 
estuary just north of New Orleans, which has canals leading to it, as well as railroads to the 
West End, the seat of the Southern Yacht-Club house and several pleasant hotels ; and to 
Spanish Fort, near the ruins of Fort St. Jean, built by Gov. Carondelet. Many narrow and 
winding lakes near the Mississippi and Red Rivers are ancient parts of these streams, cut 
off by changes in the channels, and silted up. Among these are Caddo and Sodo, Bodcan, 
Bistineau and Cannisnia. Lakes Yatt and Catahoula are large bodies of water, farther 
down the Red-River Valley. 

The Mississippi is one of the great rivers of the world. It has a length of 4,382 miles, 
and with its tributaries drains 2,455,000 square miles. Rising in Itasca Lake, in northern 
Minnesota, it flows south 1,330 miles to the confluence of the Missouri (2,908 miles long), 
■,\l''-^~S^-y;[ coming from Yellowstone Park and the Rocky Mountains. 
S- ''^^'.v U'Y • ^'^'^ pellucid tide refuses to mingle with the turbid yellow 










LAKE PONTCHARTRAIN. 



Missouri for many miles. 






Above the union of the streams, 
the Mississippi flows be- 
tween picturesque high 
bluffs, and through deep 
forests and upland prai- 
ries, but below it enters 
' the wide alluvial lowlands, through which the remainder of its course is laid, turbid, power- 
ful, marvellously crooked, and with constantly changing channels. During the five years 
following 1878 the United-States Government paid out over $10,000,000 in improving the 
navigation of the river. Nearing the Gulf after its long journey from the highlands of 
Minnesota, the Mississippi loses itself in a maze of creeks, bayous and swamps, covering a 
low-lying delta of 14,000 square miles, and flows into the salty sea through several out- 
lets. Pass a Loutre, and the Northeast, South, Southwest and other passes. For many 
miles outside, the muddy river, discolored with finely comminuted aluminous clay, fails to 
mingle with the blue tide of the sea. Pilot ■town,'near the mouths of the river, is a settle- 
ment of pilots, engaged in steering vessels through the passes. The jetties at the mouth of 
the Mississippi were built in 1875-9, ^Y Capt. Jas. B. Eads, who received something above 
$5,000,000 for making here a permanent channel 30 feet deep, where previously there had 
been but nine feet. 

The South Pass runs southeast 
twelve miles, 700 feet wide, between 
low and reedy banks of marsh-mud, 
beyond which lie still bays. The east- 
ern jetty is 25 miles long, the western 
jetty 1 2 miles, reaching out into the 
Gulf, through the crest of the bar which 
lies off shore. The jetties consist of 
mattresses of long willow rods, two 
feet thick and 100 feet long, held in new Orleans: levee, picayune tier. 




300 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEW ORLEANS : SUGAR AND RICE EXCHANGE. 



place by rubble-stone, and protected at their seaward 
ends by palmetto cribs and a capping of huge concrete 
blocks. These great engineermg works have made the 
Mississippi easily accessible for ocean steamships of the 
first class; and 5,000-ton vessels, each laden with above 
10,000 bales of cotton, pass safely out to sea. 

The Mississippi River has 585 miles of navigable 
water in and along Louisiana, and receives the Ouachita 
(navigable for 218 miles) and Red (510 miles) Rivers, 
which are ascended by steamboats far up into Arkan- 
sas and Texas. The Ouachita receives Bayou Macon (navigable for 138 miles). Bayou 
Boeuf, and Bayou Tensas (navigable for 112 miles). Black River and other streams in 
northern Louisiana are of economic value. The Atchafalaya is practically one of the mouths 
of the great river, running 217 miles from the Mississippi to the Gulf. Bayou Lafourche, 
navigable for 318 miles, to Donaldsonville, on the Mississippi, has a commerce of $5,000,000 
a year, in sugar, molasses and rice. The Bayous Terrebonne, Black, Teche, Courta- 
bleau, and others have hundreds of miles of navigable water. East of the Mississippi are 
the Amite (navigable to Port Vincent) and Tickfaw, entering Lake Maurepas ; the Tche- 
functa and Tangipahoa, effluents of Lake 
Pontchartrain ; and Pearl River, the 
boundary stream between Louisiana and 
Mississippi, up which small steamboats 
may go for 103 miles. West of the 
Mississippi, the Calcasieu and other rivers 
and bayous flow down out of the prairies 
into the salty lagoons. The Sabine forms 
the western frontier. There are valuable fishcues m thc-^L 
waters, the delicious pompano and Spanish mackerel of 
the Gulf; the shrimp of Lake Pontchartrain and else- 
where, sent by Chinese merchants to the celestial colonies 
all over the Republic ; the oysters of the bayous ; the sea- 
turtles of the islands ; and a great variety of river-fish, furnishing valuable food-products. 

Louisiana has more inland navigation (3,782 miles) than any other State, the lower 
three fourths of its area having no point over 20 miles from navigable rivers. At high 
water, the streams run much above the level of the land, and are confined in their channels 
by dykes, or levees, from five to 20 feet high. In order to protect the lowlands from inunda- 
tion, 1, 150 miles of these levees have been built along the Mississippi, Red, Black, Ouachita, 
Atchafalaya, Lafourche and other streams. Up to i860, these works had cost $24,000,000, 
but during the ensuing dark years they fell into ruin, and many of the richest plantations 
were overspread by the rivers. Upwards of |i 1,200, 000 are spent on the levees yearly, but even 

this outlay does not prevent disastrous spring floods, like 
that of 1874, when 30 parishes were inundated ; or of 
1882, resulting in a loss of $20,000,000 ; or of 1885, de- 
stroying $7,000,000 worth of property; or the terrible 
inundation of 1890, which cost the State $11,000,000. 

Agriculture yields above $50,000,000 a year in 
Louisiana, although but a tenth of her soil is under culti- 
vation. "The Coast," from New Orleans to Baton 
Rouge, along the Mississippi is largely devoted to rice 
and sugar, while the upper country yields mainly corn 
and cotton. The State produces yearly 20,000,000 
NEW ORLEANS : OLD COURT BUILDING. bushcls of com, and abundant crops of oats and sweet 




GOVERNMENT EXPERIMENTAL SUGAR FARM. 




THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



301 




KEW ORLEANS : CUSTOM HOUSE. 



potatoes. There arc 1,400,000 head of live-stock, 
valued at $22,000,000. Southern Louisiana pro- 
duces figs and bananas, peaches and plums, quinces 
and other fruits of value. The Mississippi below 
New Orleans (and especially for the 30 miles of coast 
above Fort Jackson) is lined with beautiful orange- 
groves. The figs and bananas of Plaquemines form 
a large crop. Great quantities of early vegetables 
are sent north by fast freight. The famous jet-black and highly flavored tobacco of St. - 
James Parish, which is fermented in pots and sent away in small muslin-covered and corded 
carrots, was named after the Spaniard, Sefior Perique, who settled here in 1820, and sowed 
Kentucky and Virginia seed. 

The cultivation of rice has advanced mightily within 20 years, displacing sugar in some 
sections, and being carried on principally in Plaquemines, St. -Mary's, Calcasieu and other 
parishes, and on the margins and islands of the swamps. It varies from 60,000,000 to 
120,000,000 pounds a year. There are 1,500 rice-plantations, with 50,000 persons engaged, 
and a capital of $9,000,000. Rice is sown like wheat, on carefully prepared ground, water 
being let in around (but not over) it, as soon as it is two inches high, and drawn off when 
the rice reaches 18 inches. It is harvested and threshed like wheat. Cotton is one of the 
great crops, covering more than a third of the cultivated ground, and yielding yearly 550,000 
bales. The best grades are raised along the Mississippi alluvial belt, above Red River. 

Carroll Parish produces more cotton (a bale per acre) 
than any other region in the world. The cotton-seed- 
oil business has of late attained great proportions, 
and New Orleans works up 180,000 tons of seed 
yearly. The oil is largely used for home consump- 
tion, in the manufacture of lard, and millions of gal- 
lons are exported yearly to Europe, to be returned to 
America as fine olive-oil. The pulp (or oil-cake) is 
used for feeding cattle and horses ; and from the residuum 
the factories make stearine, glycerine and soap. The Union 
Oil Mills were among the earliest pioneers in the business. 
They were established in 1855, but for many years made 
slow progress in developing their industry. Since the war 
success has crowned their efforts, with the perfecting of pro- 
cesses, the founding of a great export-trade, and the widening areas of the use of cotton-seed 
cake for cattle-feed, and for fertilizing land. The Union Oil Mills are at Gretna, across the 
river from New Orleans, and date from the year 187 1. They cover five acres, and employ 200 
workmen. Their daily capacity is 200 tons of seed. The offices of the company are in the 
Cotton Exchange, at New Orleans, and in Providence (R. I. ) ; and they control the Gretna and 
Crescent, Maginnis (New Orleans), Hamilton (Shreveport), Monroe and Baton-Rouge crude- 
oil mills, and the refineries at Providence, Gretna and New Orleans. This powerful com- 
pany is connected with the American Cotton-Seed-Oil Trust, which was organized to prevent 
over-production, and otherwise regulate the industry. 
The rapid and healthy advancement of trade in 
the natural products of Louisiana has resulted in the 
development here of some of the chief commission 
merchants and factors in the Union. Among the 
foremost of these is the great house of S. Gumbel & 
Co. (founded in 1870), who rank as the largest re- 
ceivers of actual consignment cotton in New Orleans, 
handling sometimes as high as 70,000 bales in a 




GRETNA : UNION COTTON-SEEO-OIL MILL. 




NEW ORLEANS; S. GUMBEL i CO. COTTON PRESS. 



302 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SOUTHDOWN PLANTATION : CUTTING CANE. 



single season. Avoiding all speculative business, 
this strong and conservative firm strictly confines 
itself to the receipt and disposition of the great 
Louisianian staples, and yearly increases the 
volume of its business. Under the direction of 
Isidore Hechinger, one of the partners, a vigor- 
ous trade is also carried on in sugar, molasses and 
rice, drawn from the broad plantations of the 
lowlands, and shipped from New Orleans to a 
hundred distant ports. S. Gumbel & Co. practi- 
cally own and operate the Orleans Cotton Press, the largest of the many cotton-compress 
warehouses in New Orleans, which were built to accommodate the immense receipts of the 
great staple of the Gulf States. In one part of the city there are $S,ooo,ooo invested in 
these cotton-presses and warehouses. 

Sugar-Raising supports half the population of Louisiana, employing $90,000,000 in 
land and buildings, and yielding $25,000,000 a year. Along the thirty leagues of bottom- 
less alluvion, extending from New Orleans to Baton Rouge, extends a long succession of 
sugar plantaticais, before the war the scene of a patriarchal and luxurious life. The illimit- 
able green sea of cane and rice-fields is broken only by dark groves of live-oaks and mag- 
nolias ; the broad and low mansions of the planters, wide verandaed and spacious ; and 
the mills and stables and negroes' cabins of each little independent community. In 1S61 

there were 1,400 plantations, occupied by 150,- 
000 people, and producing in that year 460,- 
000 hogsheads of sugar. Four years later the 
war-devastated State yielded but 10,000 hogs- 
heads. The crop of 1890 was the largest since 
the war, reaching 330,000 hogsheads of sugar 
and 500,000 barrels of molasses. The product 
is from 20 to 30 tons of cane an acre, 90 per 
cent, being juice, of which 15 per cent, is sugar, 
so that each 100 pounds of cane holds 13^ 
pounds of sugar. The act of Congress, passed in 
1890, giving a bounty of from if to 2 cents a pound on all sugar, of a certain grade, pro- 
duced in this country has had a stimulating effect on the industry. 

Down near Houma, in the far-extending delta parish of Terrebonne, is the great South- 
down Plantation, covering 5,000 acres, formed by a union of older estates, and for many 
years under the direction of Henry C. Minor, an old and experienced sugar-planter, whose 
father founded the original Southdown in 1827. The wonderfully rich soil of this, section 
produces sugar-cane of the best quality, and in large and profitable crops. For the manipu- 
lation of this valuable product Southdown has a costly and efficient sugar-house, a refinery 
and other needful adjuncts, and employs 150 hands. The yearly product is 3,000,000 
pounds of sugar and 2,000 barrels of molasses, 
from cane grown on the estate, and through all 
the vicissitudes of the sugar business, this plan- 
tation has never gone behind in its operations. 
The plantation is contiguous to the railroad, and 
the steamboats plying up and down the winding 
bayous. The parish in which Southdown stands 
was settled over a century ago by Acadian ref- 
ugees from Nova Scotia, and their descend- 
ants still inhabit these rich ^nd beautiful low- 

lands. • SOUTHDOWN plantation ; henry c. minor. 




SOUTHDOWN PLANTATION : SUGAR-HOUSE. 




THE STATE OE LOUISL4NA. 



303 




SHADYSIDE PLANTATION : JAMES W. BARNETT. 




FOOS & BARNETT'S SHADYSIDE PLANTATION, ON THE BAYOU TECHE. 



Shady-Side Plantation is away down in the 
Delta, near Centreville, in St. -Mary's Parish, and 
covers 7,000 acres (more than a third of which is 
under cultivation), being a consolidation of four 
oLdtime plantations. It is owned and conducted 
by John Foos and James W. Barnctt, two Ohio 
men, who invested down here in 1 870, and have 
since established one of the largest and best- 
equipped sugar estates in the South. The sugar- 
house at Shady Side is an enormous structure, 
built in 1889 from carefully studied plans, fitted 
with all the valuable machinery used in the most 
advanced modern processes of refining, and capable of a very large output. It is the largest 
plantation sugar-house in the Bayou-Teche country, and one of the best equipped in the 
State. Many interesting experiments have been carried on at Shady Side, as to using 
bezasse \.o iwiky^ pulp for manufadurini; paper, and in other directions, applying the well- 
known ability and ingenuity 
of Ohio men to enlarging 
the resources of Louisiana. 
Mr. Foos still retains his 
home and enterprise in 
Springfield, Ohio ; but Mr. 
Barnett moved down to the 
plantation in 1870, and has 
ever since devoted himself 
with the industry and business methods of the North to the utilization of the immensely 
productive plantations of the South. In all the surrounding country Mr. Barnett's name 
is synonymous with good fellowship, hospitality 
and generosity, combined with an exceptionally 
successful financial undertaking. 

The famous Calumet Plantation, on the banks 
of the Bayou Teche, near Pattersonville, in several 
respects leads the world of American sugar-estates. 
Its proprietor, Daniel Thompson (a native of 
Maine, and longtime a resident of Chicago), was 
by some twelve years Louisiana's pioneer in the 
use of commercial fertilizers. He was by 16 
years the first private individual in Louisiana, and 
probably by ten years the first in the world to 
introduce the chemical laboratory, for agricultural research upon a sugar-cane estate. 
Wibray T- Thompson, his son, was by four years the pioneer of the United States in the 
introduction of chemical and physical investigations directly applied in the actual conduct 

of manufacture, being for that period the sole 
scientist engaged in this field in America. The 
experimentation with fertilizers led from the first 
to a practice, the wisdom of which subsequent in- 
vestigations elsewhere have confirmed ; while those 
in the factory have produced practical industrial 
results, which had been believed altogether im- 
possible. These gentlemen are also now the first 
and only private parties in the world engaged in 
the scientific development, by seed-selection, of 




SHADYSIDE PLANTATION : CANE-HOUSE. 




304 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CALUMtT PLANTATION DANIEL THOMPSON 




CALUMET plantation: CANE-HOUSE. 



the, sorghum plant, by which, as an auxiliary crop 
to tropical cane, they hope eventually to double 
the period of manufacture, which does not now ex- 
ceed 60 days a year. Their success in this, to date, 
has been phenomenal. The chemical, mechanical 
and financial controls, particularly the last two, are 
without parallels for completeness and scientific 
\alue in the world's cane-sugar industry. The re- 
sults of their work have been published from the 
first, for the benefit of all others engaged in sugar 
production, and the plantation is known wherever sugar is made. The exceptionally fine 
record made by Calumet shows a continuous development of product, and whereas in earlier 
days from 80 to no pounds of sugar were obtained from a ton of cane, now 200 pounds 
are extracted. Most of this advance has come 
since 1880, and it is expected that the intricate 
experiments continually in progress here will 
achieve still higher results. This beautiful and 
notable plantation covers 6,000 acres, and its man- 
agement combines Northern industrial methods 
and business organizations with Southern hospi- 
tality and sympathy. 

Among the Northerners who have become 
identified with Louisiana since the close of the 
"late unpleasantness," and have borne a promi- 
nent part in building up its industries, are the Ames family of Massachusetts, so well and 
widely known — Oakes A., Oliver and Frank M. Ames, the heirs of Oakes Ames, to whom 
this country is so much indebted for its railroad development. They are the owners of 

one of the largest estates in this land of broad 
domains, covering 13,000 acres, in the Parish of 
Jefferson, directly opposite the city of New Or- 
leans, their property having a river-front of two 
miles. The domain includes, among others, the 
South Side and Estelle Plantations, formerly knovm 
as the Millaudon Plantation. Their land is traversed 
by the Southern Pacific and Texas & Pacific Rail- 
ways, with a station at Amesville. They were 
among the first to introduce the modern methods 
and appliances for the cultivation and harvesting of the crop, and the equipment is among 
the best and most efficient in the State. They have six miles of permanent and portable 
railroad tracks ; and introduced the car for handling sugar-cane, which has come into 
general use in all sugar-raising countries, and has been of great benefit to planters. They 
were among the first to use commercial fer- 
tilizers, and to introduce methods by which 
actual information as to results might be ob- 
tained. Their private or protection levee is over 
seven miles in extent, and by it they were en- 
abled to protect their cultivated land from the 
overflow of 1884, which was so disastrous in its 
results. The capacity of the sugar-house (which 
is in plain sight from the city of New Orleans) is 
from 60,000 to 70,000 pounds of sugar a day, or 
about 5,000,000 pounds during the sugar-making 




JiarJs:.rr^te- 







SOUTH-SIDE AND ESTELLE PLANTATIONS : 
OAKES A. , OLIVEI3 AND FRANK M. AMES. 




SOUTH-SIDE PLANTATION : FROM THE MISSISSIPPI. 



THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



305 




season. Their crop in 1S91 exceeds 3,000,000 
pounds, all of which goes to New Orleans. 

The Louisiana Sugar Refinery is the largest 
in the Southern States, and covers three entire 
squares of ground on Custom-House and Decatur 
Streets, New Orleans. This mammoth establish- 
ment has the most modern and ingenious ma- 
chinery, and can turn out 1,250,000 pounds of 
sugar daily. It receives the plantation sugars of 
Louisiana, Cuba and the Sandwich Islands, besides 
large quantities of beet-sugar, and produces there- south-side plantation : cutting cane. 

from all grades of refined sugar and syrups, which find a market all over the United States. 
About 750 men serve this corporation, whose yearly pay-roll exceeds $350,000. The Louis- 
iana Refinery is under the presidency of 
John S. Wallis, and dates its origin from 
the year 1883. It is one of the command- 
ing industries of New Orleans, and its pro- 
ducts are unexcelled for their excellence 
and standard merit. The Planters' Re- 
finery a few years ago came under the same 
ownership as the Louisiana Refinery. 





NEW ORLEANS : LOUISIANA SUGAR-REFINERY. 

Down in the rich and beautiful Gulf 
parish of St. Mary's, and close to its 
shire-town, Franklin, stand the immense 
new buildings of the Caffery Central 
Sugar Refinery, erected after the designs 
of Sully & Toledano, the New-Orleans 
architects, and fully equipped with all 
the modern machinery and inventions 
used in the processes of refining sugar. new Orleans : Louisiana c . : ery. 

The Caffery plant has been constructed with unusual care and solidity, and shows the best 
results of modern scientific processes as applied to this important industry. The transporta- 
tion of the product of the plantations to and from the refinery is made easy by spur-tracks 
running from the Morgan line of railway into the works. The owner of this notable new 
enterprise is John A. Morris, one of the best-known of Louisiana's millionaires, who has 
invested $600,000 in this bold venture. The introduction of the Caffery Refinery is 
destined to work a revolution in the business throughout the Gulf parishes. The cane 
ground here is bought from the small farmers in the neighborhood and along the railroad, 

and the great success of this institution demon- 
strates that central sugar-houses are desirable, and 
many more will be built. The capacity of the 
plant is 500 tons of cane a day. Thomas Sully is 
the general manager of the refinery. 

Another interesting phase of this business is 
seen in the case of the men who are at once active 
sugar factors or commission merchants and owners 
of great plantations. Foremost among them is 
Richard Milliken, the owner of several plantations, all of which are large producers of 
sugar. He has been famous for many years for his liberality in advancing money on grow- 
ing crops, riis financial foundation was of so solid a character that even the costly experi- 
ences of the bad seasons of 187.S-9 and 18S2-3 failed to shake his high credit; and to this 




FRANKLIN : CAFFERY CENTRAL SUGAR-REFINERY. 



3o6 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEW ORLEANS : RICHARD MILLIKEN, SUGAR FACTOR. 



day he has remained actively in the field, in in- 
timate connection with the foremost sugar-planters 
of Louisiana, and wielding a powerful influence 
in the development of this valuable industry. It 
is said that as a factor or broker he has handled 
more sugar than any individual in the South. In 
1840, after he had been a resident of New Or- 
leans for eight years, Mr. Milliken became a sugar- 
liroker, and carried on this business with remark- 
able success until 1S87. He handled one third of 
the sugar-crop of Louisiana. In 1S70 he became also a sugar-factor, and has since handled 
one fifth of the crop, or 40,000 hogsheads of sugar and 60,000 barrels of molasses yearly. 
In 1872, Mr. Milliken acquired the Unity plantation ; in 1876, the Waterford ; and since 
then the Fairfield, Killana and Cedar-Grove estates. The Milliken plantations employ 
1,000 men, and have a yearly product of 5,000,000 pounds of sugar and 300,000 gallons of 
molasses. 

Louisiana is a land of flowers, and the fragrance of orange blossoms, delicate magnolias, 
and jessamine, blend with the perfume of innumerable roses, and miles of wild flowers along 
the alluvial plains. The most notable animals are the 
panthers of the swamps, the black and brown bears of the 
uplands, and the great alligators of the bayous. Lizards, 
turtles and snakes of many kinds dwell in and near the 
lowland waters, and here also is a great array of the waders, 
iloises, cranes and herons. Various eagles and many hawks 
and gulls, and the patron-bird of the State, the pelican, fly »1 
over the l)ayous ; and myriads of mocking-birds and finches, 
cedar-birds and orioles fill the air with their songs. The 
uplands are the home of jiartridges and grouse, pigeons and 
wild turkeys. 

The Climate varies greatly, from New Orleans, with 
its average temperature of 69.54°, and rainfall of 73 inches, 
to Shreveport, with a yearly average of 64° and a rainfall of 47 inches. It may be called 
semi-tropical, and is strongly modified by the large lakes and rivers and the Ciulf-winds. 
Droughts are rare ; light frosts visit the sugar-region but once in three years ; and snow gets 
to New Orleans but once in ten years. The northern counties are whitened by occasional 
snows and harsh northerly storms, dropping the temperature to 15°. The heavy mortality of 
Louisiana in old times has visibly abated with the developmentof sanitary science. Thedeath- 
rate of New Orleans was 59 per thousand in 1850-60, 40 in 1860-70, 35 in 1S70-80, 29 in 
iS80"86, and is 25 to-day, nearly two-thirds of the deaths being negroes. Consumption causes 
one seventh of the deaths; and malarial diseases, one fifteenth. The saline and breezy air 
of Louisiana is beneficial for sufferers from rheumatism, catarrh, bronchitis and consumption. 
The Government abides in a group of executive officers, elected by the people for four 

years ; the General Assembly, made up of 36 sena- 
tors, and from 74 to 98 representatives ; the Supreme 
Court of five judges, appointed for eight years ; and 
judges of the Courts of Appeal and District Courts. 
The District judges are elected, except in New Or- 
leans, where they are appointed by the governor. 
The Appeal judges are elected by the Legislature. 
The parishes correspond with the counties in the 
other States. The Capitol is a picturesque Eliza- 
BATON ROUGE ; LOUISIANA STATE UNIVERSITY, bcthau buildiug at Baton Rouge, with battlemented 




NEW ORLEANS COTTON EXCHANGE 




THE STATE OE LOUISIANA. 



307 




NEW ORLEANS : G»,YARRE PLACE. 



towers and Gothic windows. The Louisiana State 
National Guard is organized in the parish of Or- 
leans, and includes the First Brigade. The Special 
Militia Force of the State covers the troops of the 
interior parishes, four companies about Baton 
Rouge forming the First Battalion ; four in the 
northern parishes forming the Second Battalion ; 
and several companies of cavalry and artillery. 
There are also independent companies, one French, 
two Italian, one colored, and the renowned Bat- 
talion of Washington Artillery. 

The Penitentiary at Baton Rouge has 800 con- 
victs (mostly colored), and is conducted on the lease system, the prisoners being set to 
work on the levees and other public enterprises. There are Houses of Refuge for boys and 
girls, at New Orleans, the seat also of the great Charity Hospital, and many other benevo- 
lent institutions. The Insane Asylum at Jackson has 500 patients ; and the Louisiana Re- 
treat is at New Orleans. The Louisiana Institution and Industrial Home for the Blind 
and the Institution for the Deaf and Dumb are at Baton Rouge. 

Education is offered by the State more freely than it is accepted by the people. 
Fewer than one fifth of the children of proper age attend the schools. The buildings are 
inferior, and instruction is given but four months in each year. As a result, the illiterates 
include 112,000 among the voting men alone. Four fifths of the illiterates are negroes. 

The State Normal School is at Natchitoches ; and 
New Orleans also has a normal school. The 
Tulane University of Louisiana was founded by 
the State in the year 1837, as the University of 
Louisiana, and took the name of Tulane from Paul 
Tulane of New Jersey, who amassed a fortune in 
New Orleans between 1822 and 1873, ^"^^ retired 
to his native State. Between 1882 and 1887 he 
gave $1, 100,000 for education, and the institution 
thus endowed acquired the valuable franchises and 
handsome classical buildings of the old University at New Orleans, and has attained a high 
efficiency. Tulane University has 25 instructors and 248 students ; the Law Department 
(founded in 1847), ^^'^ instructors and 52 students ; the Medical Department, eleven instruc- 
tors and 287 students. The H. Sophie Newcomb Memorial College, founded by Mrs. 
Warren Newcomb of New York, was opened as a department of Tulane in 1887. It has 
handsome buildings on Washington Avenue. There is also a free drawing school, with 310 
students ; a manual training school ; and a valuable gallery of original paintings and 
statuary. The Tulane-University library contains 20,000 volumes; and the State Library, 
in the Law Building, has 26,000. The Louisiana State Uni- 
versity was opened in 1855, at Alexandria, with Col. W. T. 
Sherman as commandant. Reopened after the war, it was 
moved to the Deaf and Dumb Asylum at Baton Rouge, in 
1869, and now occupies the old United-States Arsenal, on a 
high bluff north of the city, surrounded by superb oaks, and 
overlooking the Mississippi for many leagues. The State 
Agricultural College is connected with the University, and 
there are commercial and civil-engineering schools. The 
University is declining, falling from 200 students in 1880 to 
69 in 1887, and financial straitness has constrained reducing 
the professors' salaries. The Southern University at New 




NEW ORLEANS : TULAUE Ur>H/ 




NEW ORLEANS : ST. -ROCH'S CHAPEL. 




NcW ORLEANS : CONVENT OF THE GOOD SHEPHERD. 



308 A'lXG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Orleans is endowed by the State for colored youth, and has preparatory, academic, nor- 
mal and industrial departments. Streight University (Congregational), also at New Or- 
leans, is for white or colored students. New-Orleans University is also for blacks or whites, 
and has the Gilbert-Haven School of Theology (Metho- f dist). Leland University is a 
Baptist school. Each of these uni- 
versities has from 400 to 600 students, 
all colored. The college of 
the Immaculate Conception, 
founded by the Jesuits at New 
Orleans, in 1847, has 160 stu- 
dents, besides 235 in commer- 
cial and preparatory courses. 
The Catholics also conduct 
Jefferson College, St. -Mary's, 
and St. -Charles College, at Grand Coteau. The Centenary College (Methodist) is at Jack- 
son ; and Keachie College (Baptist) is at Keachie. 

The Howard Memorial Library was the outgrowth of a generous plan formed by Charles 
T, Howard, and carried out, after his death, by his daughter, Miss Annie T. Howard, who 

erected in New Orleans this beautiful building 
as a monument to her father. Subsequently, 
she endowed it with $1 15,000 (increased by kins- 
men to $200,000) ; and gave the entire property 
and fund to a board of trustees, for the citizens 
of New Orleans as a free reference-library. The 
librarian is Charles A. Nelson, a Harvard gradu- 
ate, formerly cataloguer of the Astor Library 
(New York). The building was designed by the 
greatest of American architects, H. H. Richard- 
son (a native of Louisiana) ; and constructed by 
It is in the Romanesque style, of ironstone, with a 
high pitched roof and dormers, and turrets covered with red terra-cotta tiles from Akron 
(Ohio). The great reading-room, with its monumental fire-place, and the imposing book- 
room, with 18,000 volumes in its alcoves, have a restful air of luxury and refinement, in 
their rich and subdued interior finish. The whole institution is one of the 
most beneficent and most attractive features of New Orleans. 

The Newspapers of Louisiana number about 150. Of these ten are 
in French, three in German, and one each in Spanish and Italian. The 
foremost newspaper in the Gulf States, and one of the great' exponents of 
Southern thought and sentiment is the New-Orleans Times-Democrat. 
The Times was founded in 1863, to support the Union cause, which then 
had no advocate in the State ; and after the war became an independent 
Democratic journal. The Democrat was organized late in 1875, as a Dem- 
ocratic campaign evening paper, under the editorship of Robert Tyler, son 
of ex-President Tyler. It became a morning paper, and after many vicissi- 
tudes, passed into the sole ownership of Major E. A. Burke, State Treasurer, 
in 1 88 1, who also in the same year bought the Times, and consolidated the 
two papers under the present title. In 1883, Page M. Baker became 
editor, and in 1884 was elected manager. In 18S8 the Burke interest was 
sold. Mr. Baker is now both manager and editor-in-chief; and the paper 
continually advances in circulation and in infiuence. It has been foremost .,^,„ ^„, ^.„^ . 

/ _ ^ NEW ORLEANS : 

in advancing the industrial development of the South, in bringing about a times-democrat. 




NEW ORLEANS : THE HOWARD MEMORIAL LIBRARY 

Norcross Bros, of Worcester (Mass.). 



r' 




77//i STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



l'°9 




NEW ORLEANS : METAIRIE CEMETERY. 



larger trade with Latin America, in special 
telegraphic-news service throughout the South, 
and in leading great charitable movenients. It 
owns both the Associated-Press and the United- 
Press franchises. Its relief steamboat averted 
vast distress in the overflcwwed districts, of 
Louisiana and Mississippi ; and its intrepid exploring ex- 
pedition was the first to traverse the Everglades of Florida. 
^ The Catholic population of the State is about 320,000, 

with 125 churches. The Methodists and Baptists have 
between 20,000 and 25,000 members each, and the re- 
maining Protestant sects have 20,000 members in all. 
National Institutions. — There are four United-States forts in Louisiana, Jackson and 
St. Philip, 73 miles below New Orleans, for the defence of the Mississippi, and Macomb 
and Pike, near Chef Menteur, guarding the entrances to Lake Pontchartrain. All these 
works are ungarrisoned and dismantled, the only National troops in the State being two 
companies at Jackson Barracks, six miles from New Orleans. The National Cemetery at 
Chalmette, on Jackson's battle-ground, has 12,192 graves, 1,800 of them covering New- 
England soldiers, who died in this region during the Civil War. The National Cemetery at 
Alexandria contains 1,300 victims of the Red-River campaigns; that at Port Hudson, 
nearly 4,000 Union soldiers, who died during the famous siege; ajid that at Baton Rouge, 
those who lost their lives in defending the city against Confederate 
assaults. 

Chief Cities. — New Orleans is the largest cotton-mart in the 
world (except Liverpool), and receives 2,000,000 bales yearly. Six 
trunk-line railways centre here, and several large steamship lines. 
The trade includes Central and South-American fruits (2,500,000 
bunches of bananas yearly), Texan and Mexican wool (30,000,000 
pounds yearly), and hides (12,000,000 pounds) and Southern lumber 
and iron. The tonnage, commerce and population of the port are 
now greater than ever, with immense exports of sugar, cotton and 
rice to New York and Liverpool. The Mississippi is half a mile wide opposite the city, 
though 107 miles from the sea, and furnishes a noble avenue for great numbers of ships and 
river-steamers, which lie along the levee in ranks. The city abounds in rich bits of color, 
the semi-Oriental slave-market, the vivid gardens of the French, the miles of shipping, the 
brilliant theatres, the noble old Cathedral St. Louis and the court buildings beside it, 
the fine drives on the Shell Road, the venerable Spanish Fort on Lake Pontchartrain, the 
many-colored streets of the old Creole quarter, the quaint gables and peaks and dormers of 
the Rue Royale, the bright flower-beds and trim shrubbery of Jackson Square, and the 
fragments of the Spanish barracks. Mardi Gras in New Or- 
leans is the most picturesque of American festivals, and 
abounds in masks and revelry. The pleasant parks, Audubon, 
Lafayette, the Place d'Armes, and others, contain the bronze 
equestrian statue of Gen. Jackson, Hiram Powers's marble 
statue of Franklin, and the Lee Monument ; an equestrian statue 
of Gen. A. S. Johnston and other memorials. Metairie Ceme- 
tery with its interments above ground is noted. Its entrance 
was designed by Sully & Toledano. 

Bdton Rouge, the capital city, is on the Mississippi, on the 
first spur of high land that reaches the river, and has many 
quaint old houses, and an air of languid quiet. Of late years 
it has developed a large cK)untry trade with the adjoining 




NEW ORLEANS : 
CEMETERY WALK. 




NEW ORLEANS : PICKWICK CLUB. 



A'LVCJ'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEW ORLEANS I JESUIT COLLEGE AND CHURCH. 



City, 
over 



parishes. Shreveport, the metropolis of northern Louisiana, on the Red River, has rail- 
ways, steamboat lines, and factories, and ships great quantities of cotton. It stands in an 
alluvial valley of unexcelled fertility. 

In Commerce Louisiana has stood second only to New York in her exports, with over 
$110,000,000 in yearly value, $20,000,000 in imports, and a coast- 
wise and interior trade of $250,000,000. These amounts fell off 
very much between 1870 and 1880, but the trade of 
the city is again improving. 

Finances. — Louisiana's net State debt was 
$23,000,000 in 1880; and this was reduced by 
1890 to $12,500,000. Of the 13 National 
banks in Louisiana, eight are in New Or- 
leans. The New-Orleans National Bank, one 
of the foremost financial institutions of the 
Southwest, embodies in its Board of Directors 
many of the prominent merchants of the 
and has a close and beneficial relation to the entire business community, holding 
|2, 000, 000 worth of discounted bills. The total resources of this great corporation 
reach nearly $5,000,000, the deposits being $4,000,000, and the 
capital and surplus amounting to over $Soo,ooo. The bank has 
correspondents in all the principal American cities, and makes 
collections, investments and telegraphic transfers of money. The 
stock of the New-Orleans National Bank (Albert Baldwin, presi- 
dent) is quoted at over seven times its par value, a fact which in- 
dicates the confidence reposed in this strong bulwark of finance. 
Its handsome bank building was designed by Sully & Toledano. 

Railroads. — The great Texas & Pacific Railway extends from 
New Orleans to Shreveport, and thence across the State of Texas, 
with various branches and connections, and extensive wharves 
and warehouses on the Mississippi, near New Orleans. It owns 
over a thousand square miles of land in the Mississippi and Yazoo 
Valleys, and sells large and small tracts here for low cash pay- 
ments and long credits. The line does an immense business in 
transporting cattle, lumber, cotton, sugar, molasses and rice. The 
Southern Pacific, from New Orleans to Los Angeles and San 
Francisco, controls Morgan's Louisiana & Texas line. The Louisville & Nashville, from 
New-Orleans to Mobile (140 miles) has 38 miles; the New-Orleans and North-Eastern 
(Queen & Crescent), 43 miles. 

The Anchor Line has eleven large steamboats plying between New Orleans and Vicks- 
burg and St. Louis ; and the Southern Transportation Company runs seven steamboats 
between New Orleans and Cincinnati. Minor lines make regular trips to the Upper Coast 
and Lower Coast, the Red and Ouachita Rivers, and Bayous Teche, Tensas and Macon. 

The Morgan steamships run from New-Orleans 
to New Y<nk, Cedar Keys, Punta Gorda, Key 
West, Havana, Vera Cruz, Progeso, Santiago 
and Nicaragua. 

The Manufactures of Louisiana include 
small quantities of clothing, machinery, cot- 
ton-seed oil, cigars, malt liquors, flour and 
meal, lumber, and sugar. The output of New 
Orleans alone was $45,000,000 for the year 

CHARITY HOSPITAL. I S9O. 




NEW-ORLEANS: 
NEW-ORLEANS NATIONAL BANK. 




NEW ORLEANS : 




Whether the Norsemen, 
ISiarnc in the year 996, and 
Thorfinn in lOoS, visited the 
Maine coast, no one can sure- 
ly tell. Many believe that 
they did. Cortereal, Veraz- 
zano, Oomez and other nav- 
igators sailed down the Gulf 
of Maine before 1 530 ; and in 
1603, Martin Pring spent a pleasant June on Penobscot and 
Casco bays and along the Maine rivers. In 1604, De Monts 
founded a French colony on Neutral Island, in the St. Croi.x 
River ; in 1605, Waymouth set up crosses at Monhegan and 
Pentecost Harbor, to claim the land for England ; in 1607, 
Popliam established an ephemeral Anglican colony at Phips- 
burg ; and in 1613, a French Jesuit mission came into exist- 
ence at Mount Desert, and was destroyed by a Virginian 
fleet. In 1614, Capt. John Smith ranged the coast in an 
open boat from the Penobscot to Cape Cod. Sections of 
Maine were granted to Capt. John Mason, the Duke of 
York, Sir P'erdinando Gorges and other adventurous pro- 
moters of colonies ; and settlements arose along the coast, 
at Pemaquid, Monhegan, Saco, and other points. In 1652 
Massachusetts began to govern Maine, and 25 years 
later she bought out the Gorges' rights. By the char- 
ter of William and Mary (1691), Massachusetts, Plymouth, 
Acadia, Sagadahoc and Maine were consolidated into "The 
Royal Province of Massachusetts Bay. " The partisan war- 
fare of D'Aulnay and La Tour, the settlement of the Baron 
lie St. Castin on Penobscot Bay, the forays of the Indian 
chieftains Mogg Megone and Madockawando, and the 
Jesuit missions and crusades, have touched this iron-bound 
cf)ast with the halo of romance, and furnished themes for 
the poems of Longfellow and Whittier. 

During the long struggles with the French and Indians Maine suffered dreadfully. 
Only five settlements remained at the close of King Philip's War, and in the first French 
W^ar every town east of Wells went down. Terrible return blows were struck by the Colo- 



Settled at ... . 

Settled in ... . 
Founded by . . 
Admitted as a State, 
Population, in i 
In 1870, . . . 
In i,H8o, . . . 
White, . . 
Colored, . . 
American-born 
Foreign-born, 
Males, . . 
Females, . . 
In 1890 (U. S. census), 
'opulation to the square mile 



Pemaquid. 

1630 

Englishmen. 

1820 

628, 279 

626,915 

6)8,935 

646,852 

2,084 

590.053 

58,883 

324,058 

324.878 

56i,o86 

21.7 

187.323 



Voting Population, 
Vote for Harrison (i8»8), 73.734 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 50,481 
Net State Debt, . , §3,408,229. 70 
Real and Personal Prop- 
erty, ...... $309,000,000 

Area (square miles), . . . 33,040 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 4 

Militia (Disciplined), . . . i.ogo 

Counties, 16 

Post-offices, ... . 1,125 

Railroads (milesl, , i,-'.'/,S 

Vessels, . . ... 221 

Tonnage, 409,664 

Manufactures (yearly), 879.825,393 

Operatives 52,949 

Yearly Wages, . . . $13,621,538 
Farm Land (m acres), . '6,552,578 
Farm-I-and Values, $102,357,615 
Farm Products (yearly) $21,945,489 
Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 98,641 

Newspapers, I75 

Latitude, . . . 43^4' to47°3i'N. 
Longitude, . . 66''45' to 7i'^6' W. 
Temperature, . . . — 21" to 97" 
Mean Temperature (Augusta), 45° 

CHIEF CtTIES AND THEIR POPULA- 
TIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). 



Portland, 
Lewision, 
Bangor, . 
Hiddeford, 
.Auburn, . 
Augusta, . 
Hath, . . 
Rockland, 
Calais, 
Waterville, 



36,425 
21,701 
19.103 
14.44s 
11,250 
10,1,27 
8,723 
8,174 
7,290 
7,107 



312 



AVNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




PORTLAND : LONGFELLOW'S BIRTHPLACE. 



nial troops at Fryeburg, Norridgewock, and elsewhere. In 
Queen Anne's War the settlements suffered devastation by 
torch and tomahawk during a long decade. For many 
years the roaring of hostile cannon echoed around the walls 
of Pemaquid, Castine, York, and other fortresses and vil- 
lages. But the colonists fought the savages with heroic 
tenacity, and pushed line after line of settlements inland. 

A Maine regiment served in the battle of Bunker Hill, 
and throughout the Revolution the long and exposed coast was ravaged by the royal fleets. 
The British armed vessel Margaretta suffered capture at Machias after a sanguinary battle, 
"The Lexington of the Sea." In 1775, a British fleet destroyed Portland by bombard- 
ment, burning 414 buildings. 

During the War of 1S12 British expeditions captured Eastport, Robbinston, Castine, 
Belfast, Hampden, Bangor, and Machias, inflicting great damage. In 1819, two thirds of 
the inhabitants of the District of Maine voted to separate from Massachusetts, with whose 
hearty and kindly approval and help this change was effected, and Maine, in 1820, entered 
the Union, the youngest of the Atlantic States, except Florida. The Aroostook War, in 

1837-9, arose from boundary disputes be- 
tween Maine and New Brunswick, and 
the border vk'as garrisoned by regulars 
and local militia, under Gen. Scott. 

During the late civil war Maine sent 
out 70,000 troops, and incurred a war 
debt of $12,000,000. The only disturb- 
ance of her territory occurred in 1863, 
when a party of Confederate privateers- 
men cut out the United-States revenue- 
cutter Caleb Cits/iine, in Portland harbor. 




LUBEC AND THE NARROWS. 



They put to sea in their prize, but were hotly pursued by hastily armed" local steamboats, and 
captured. In 1870 and afterwards a number of families were brought over from Sweden 
and placed upon the rich Ai^oostook lands. In such ways, and by the inflowing of French 
Canadians, the State is repairing the losses caused by the vast westward migrations of its 
people. The famous "Maine Law" policy, begun in 1846 and 1851, imposes severe pen- 
alties on the manufacture, selling or drinking of intoxicating liquors. It has not suppressed 
these evils, but has abated them ; and drunkenness and tippling are held in disrepute. 

The Name of Maine is due to its geographical features. "Years before the name 
appeared in the charter, the territory was designated by 
English mariners 'The Maine,' to distinguish it from its 
insular parts. A useful and expressive word, constantly 
applied to it, was adopted for the English name of the 
territory. In the grant by Charles I. to Sir Ferdinando 
Gorges it is recorded : ' All that Parte, Purport and 
Portion of the Mayne Lande of New England we doe 
name, ordeyne and appoynt shall forever hereafter bee 
called and named The Province or Countie of Mayne.' " 

The mast pine, an evergreen of towering height, is the 
pride of the Maine forests, and gives rise to the popu- 
lar name of The Pine-Tree State. 

The Arms of Maine display a silver shield, bearing - 
a pine tree, with a moose at its foot ; the word Maine - -, _^ ^ — ^ 

below; the motto DiRlGO ("I direct") above ; the crest, ^ - ' 

a star ; and the supporters, a husbandman and seaman. west quoddy light. 




THE ST A TR OF .^FAIXE. 




MOUNT KATAHDII 



The Governors of the Statu have been : William 
King, 1820; William Durkee Williamson (acting), 
1821 ; Albion K. Parris, 1822-7 ; Enoch Lincoln, 
1827-9; Nathan Cutler (acting), 1829-30; Jonathan 
O. Hunton, 1S30-1 ; Samuel Emerson Smith, 1831-4; 
Robert P. Dunlap, 1834-8; Edward Kent, 1838- 9; 
John Fairfield, 1839-40 ; Edward Kent, 1840-1 ; John 
Fairfield, 1841-3 ; Edward Kavanagh (acting), 1843-4 ; 
Hugh J. Anderson, 1844-7 5 Jo^" ^ ■ Dana, 1847-50 ; 
John Hubbard, 1850-3; W^n. G. Crosby, 1853-5 ; Anson P. Morrill, 1855-6; Samuel 
Wells, 1856-7; Hannibal Hamlin, 1857; Joseph H. Williams (acting), 1857-8; Lot M. 
Morrill, 1S58-61 ; Israel Washburn, Jr., 1861-2 ; Abner Coburn, 1 863-4 ; Samuel Cony, 
1864-7; Joshua Lawrence Chamberlain, 1867-71; Sidney Perham, 1871-4 ; Nelson 
Dingley, Jr., 1874-6 ; Selden Connor, 1 876-9 ; AlonzoGarcelon, 1879-80 ; Daniel F. Davis, 
1880-1 ; Harris M. Plaisted, 1881-3; Frederick Robie, 1883-7 ; Joseph R. Bodwell, 1887 ; 
Sebastian S. Marble (acting), 1SS7-9 ; and Edwin C. Burleigh, 1889-93. 

Descriptive. — Maine is nearly as large as the other five New-England States com- 
bined. The Atlantic Ocean bounds it on the south and southeast ; New Hampshire 
extends along the west ; and the Canadian provinces of Quebec and New Brunswick, on 
the west and the east, bend to a union over Maine's northern frontier. The most easterly 
point of United- States land is the bold rocky promontory of West Quoddy Head, near 
Lubec. The surface of Maine is 
beautifully diversified. The coast 
hills include Agamenticus (673 feet), 
Mount Megunticook (1,457 feet), and 
Green Mountain, on Mount-Desert 
Island (1,527 feet). An ascending 
slope runs 140 miles inland to the 
divide, whence the northern slope 
of 7,400 square miles descends 80 
miles to the Canadian frontier. There 
are several ranges of wooded mountains, breaking at their summits into noble craggy peaks. 
Foremost among these is Mount Katahdin, 5,385 feet high, isolated in the lonely Penobscot 
wilderness. Around Moosehead Lake rise the fine peaks of Squaw Mountain, 3, 262 feet ; 
Mount Baker, 3,589; and the Spencer Mountains, 3,135. In western Maine are Mount 
Bigelow, 3,300 feet ; Mount Abraham, 3,387 ; Saddleback Mountain, 4,000 ; Mount Blue, 
3,200; Mount Aziscoos, 3,150; and other lofty summits. There are 1,568 lakes and 
ponds, covering 2,300 square miles, with limpid waters and great beauty of scenery. The 
chief of these are Moosehead, 38 by twelve miles long, and 1,023 feet above the sea; 

Sebago, 14 by eleven miles, and 400 feet deep ; 
the Rangeley Lakes, 1,511 feet above the 
sea, and covering 80 square miles ; Chesun- 
cook, 20 by two miles in area ; and the Schoo- 
dics, near the eastern boundary. These lovely 
inland waters abound in pickerel, trout, land- 
locked salmon, and other fish, and are visited 
by thousands of sportsmen. 

Maine is blessed with a network of 5,151 

streams, the chief of which are the Penobscot, 

275 miles long, and navigable to Bangor (55 

miles) ; the deep and rocky-shored Kennebec, 

MOUNT DESERT ; EAGLE LAKE. 155 "''^les ioug, and uavlgablc to Augusta (42 





^. 


'^T--^- - ."j-^Esa 


-■—- -^-■- \'^at- r- 




^^^j^^;j^«;^^ 


;. :^___ _ ^ #pi 




^- _^ 



MOOSEHEAD LAKE : MOUNT KINEO. 




3M 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



MOUNT DESERT AND BAR HARBOR. 



miles); the Androscoggin, 157 miles; the St. 
Croix, 97 miles ; and the Saco, 95 miles. The 
St. John drains a great area of the wilderness. It 
is claimed that Maine has more available water- 
power than any other portion of the globe of equal 
extent, the amount being above 2,500,000 horse- 
power. 

The rock-bound coast of "hundred-harbored 
Maine" extends for 2,486 miles (225 miles in a 
straight line), and is broken by the great bays of Passamaquoddy, Penobscot, and Casco, 
each of them abounding in beautiful islands ; and by many smaller bays, Sheepscot, 
Frenchman's, Muscongus, Narraguagus, and others. The coast forms a succession of long 
rocky peninsulas and islands, separated by deep and narrow fiords, and with many admira- 
ble land-locked harbors. It is starred at night by 54 light-houses and lighted beacons, 
and 23 fog-signals ; and 23 bell-buoys and whistling-buoys warn mariners from points 
of danger. 

Summer Resorts abound in this charming northern park, which is far above the 
range of malaria, mosquitoes, and heat. There are summer-hotels and cottages all along 
the coast, from ancient Kittery and York and Wells, by Kennebunkport, Old Orchard, and 
Scarborough, and among the lovely islands of Casco Bay, to Harpswell and Cape Small 
Point ; Hunnewell's Point, at the mouth of the Ken- 
nebec ; Squirrel Island, off Boothbay ; the Penobscot- 
Bay resorts, Camden, Northport, Castine, and Deer 
Isle ; the metropolitan splendors of Mount Desert and 
Sorrento ; and the remoter eastern beaches and head- 
lands. Off Penobscot Bay rise the purple mountains 
of Isle au Haut, inside of which lie the hundreds 
of islands which gem the great estuary of the Pen- 
obscot. Monhegan is twelve miles from the main- 
land, and covers a thousand rocky acres. Mount Desert, off the eastern coast, is a mimic 
continent of lOO square miles, with 13 high mountains rising from the sea, and several 
clear highland lakes. Its wonderful Tyrolese scenery has given reason for the growth 
here of one of the choicest of American summer-resorts, and the beautiful cottages and 
the huge hotels of Bar Harbor are of world-wide fame. Several other popular resorts, 
like Seal Harbor, Southwest Harbor, and Northeast Harbor, have risen on the island ; and 
the shores of the adjacent Frenchman's Bay are studded with similar summer-colonies, 
Sorrento, Sullivan, Winter Harbor, and La Moine. An eminent Boston divine once 
lamented that "God is making no more Maine coast ;" and this glorious eight hundred 
leagues of sea-bound, backed by illimitable natural parks of forests, lakes and mountains, is 

the great pleasure-ground of the North-Atlantic 
F" / T^E^^^^jZgggjj States. In the vast northern forests there are many 

g, '1 -- - ---- favorite places for sportsmen, the trout-abounding 

^" Rangeley Lakes, great Moosehead Lake, Chesun- 

cook, the Allagash waters, and many other lonely 

forest-streams and lakes, on whose shores the moose 

^ and caribou still linger. On the west are Frye- 

burg and Bethel, close by the White Mountains. 
Fully 100,000 summer-visitors enter Maine every 
season, supporting 250 summer-hotels and num- 
berless farm boarding-houses and forest-camps. 
Nearly $10,000,000 are spent here every year by 
and for this class of guests. 




T [ ESERT ; SPLIT ROCK. 




\ O ;sETOCfc ACUNTIC 



THE ST A TE OF MAINE. 



315 




MOUNT desert: BAR HARBOR. 



One of the most cliarming ami most widely-known 
summer-resorts in America, patronized by distin- 
guished people from both continents, is Poland 
Spring, 25 miles north of Portland, and reached 
by a delightful five-mile stage-ride from Dan- 
ville Junction, where the Maine-Central and 
Grand-Trunk Railways cross. Among the ven- 
erable pine and oak groves on this hill-top, 
which looks over leagues of lakes and valleys, 
and out to the White Mountains, stands the 
great Poland-Spring House, with its broad frontage, 500 feet long, and all modern devices 
for giving comfort and luxury to the pilgrims of health. Close by is the Mansion House, 
smaller, but very attractive, and open all the year. The first Mansion House was opened 
here in 1797 by Wentworth Ricker, and ever since that time some member of the family 
has kept a hotel here. The establishments now are run by Hiram Ricker & Sons. The 
foremost characteristic of this wonderful spring is its unapproachable and incomparable 
purity, an excellence in which it is unsurpassed among all the waters of the world. It is not 
a mineral water, but the least mineral of waters ; and therein, and in certain unknown but 
irresistible potencies, its mysterious power consists. It is a powerful absorbent, and cures 
many perilous disorders, besides reviving dormant or dying organs. In all diseases of the 
kidneys it acts with magical efficacy. The Poland water is sent in great 
quantities to all parts of the United States, being everywhere in use as a 
remedial agent, or as a delicious table-water. 

The Maine woods cover 20,000 square miles, 
an area seven times greater than the Black For- 
rest of Germany; and abound in great white 

feet 



pmes, sometimes 240 feet high ; 
hard and thick-grained yellow pines; 
Norway and pitch-pines, spruces 
and hemlocks, elms and maples, 
beeches and buttonwoods, oaks and 
and poplars, cedars and firs. Tho- 
the whole length of the country on 
The 




POLAND 

SPRING 




POLAND SPRING HOUSE 



MANSION HOUSE. 



birches, basswoods and ashes, larches 

reau said that "a squirrel could travel 

the tops of the trees." The lumber industries run out 400,000,000 feet yearly. 

enforcement of laws against hunting with dogs has been attended with an amazing increase 

of deer, caribou, and moose ; and bears and catamounts, wolverines and hedgehogs, abound. 

The hunters of Maine send yearly to the furriers 22,000 skins of muskrats, 10,000 of foxes 

and mink, and great numbers of sables, otters, and coons. 

Climate. — Equidistant between the equator and the North Pole, Maine is a land of 
variable winds, gentle rains, sudden changes, and heavy sea-fogs, with cooler summers and 
warmer winters than corresponding latitudes in the interior. The mean annual temperature 
is 40.88°; mean summer 62.18°; mean winter 18.45°. The mean annual depth of snow 



is 83.02 inches (equal to 6. 9 1 inches of water). In the north it cov 
from mid-November to mid- April. The Penobscot is frozen for 125 
The summer is short, with hardly five months 
between frosts. Malarial diseases are rare, 
but consumption causes one fourth of 
the deaths. 

The Geology of Maine affords, as 
its best commercial products, the ex- 
cellent gray, red, and black granites 
PORTLAND; POST-OFFICE. of the Pcnobscot Islands, used for 



ers the ground 
days each year. 





PORTLAND : CUSTOM-HOUSE. 




PORTLAND : OBSERVATORY. 



316 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

public buildings all over the country. Dix Islan-,1 produced the material for 
the Treasury Building, at Washington, and the New-York and Philadelphia 
post-offices. The Bodwell Company of Vinal Haven has quarried the larg- 
est piece of stone ever cut in the world, its length of 115 feet exceed- 
ing that of the greatest of the Egyptian obelisks. Vinal Haven 1 fe I^H 
yielded much of the stone for the Cincinnati Post-office and the State \l.\'^ '^ 
Department, at Washington. Maine granite has also made the 
Yorktown and Plymouth monuments, the Buffalo City Hall, the 
Baltimore Post-office, and the City Building, at Chicago. Deer 
Isle has valuable quarries, from which the granite is swung by 
derricks on to the vessels' decks. At Mount Waldo 200 men 
quarry granite paving-blocks. Maine ships yearly 100,000,000 of these blocks. There 
are valuable quarries at Yarmouth, North Jay, and Blue Hill. At West Sullivan 1,000 
men are engaged quarrying the fine gray granite which spreads along the top of the ground, 
and is shipped down Frenchman's Bay. Hallowell has large quarries of white granite ; 
and Norridgewock ships granite from its Dodlin Hill. Calais, Mount Desert, and Jones- 
port produce fine red granite ; Addison, St. George, and Columbia are celebrated for their 
black granite. Rockland, on Penobscot Bay, has eighty kilns, where 1,000 men make 
1,200,000 barrels of lime yearly. The slate-quarries in the Piscataquis Valley have been 
worked for half a century. Freestone, marble, and serpentine are found in various places ; 
and Orr's Island contains fine steatite. Gold, silver, copper, lead, tin, and manganese are 
found in small quantities. The Katahdin Iron Works produce excellent metal from bog 
Mount , . Mica, in Paris, abounds in tourmalines, rose-quartz, 

and other rare minerals. 

Agriculture is increasing, but out of the 
19,000,000 acres in Maine, only 3,500,000 are 
improved, in about 65,000 farms, valued at $1 10,- 
000,000. About 8,000,000 bushels of potatoes, 
2,800,000 of oats, 1,000,000 of corn, 1,300,000 
tons of hay, 2,800,000 pounds of wool, and 
1,400,000 pounds of butter, are among the yearly farm-products. There are 90,000 horses, 
350,000 cattle, 540,000 sheep, and 70,000 hogs. The Aroostook Valley has the largest 
area of fertile farming land in New England, composed of a deep yellow porous loam, 
above a stratum of limestone. Vast areas here remain unoccupied, and may be bought for 
a nominal price. Apples, pears, cherries, plums, grapes, and berries grow abundantly all 
over Maine ; and sweet corn and other vegetables and fruits are preserved in cans at many 
large factories, and have a world-wide reputation. 

The Government includes a governor, elected biennially by the people, and several 
executive officers chosen by the legislature, which is composed of a senate of thirty-one 
members and a house of 151 representatives. The Supreme Judicial Court has eight jus- 
tices, and there are probate and commissioners' courts in each county, and superior, munici- 
pal and police courts. 

The State House, on the heights over the Ken- 
nebec River at Augusta, dates from 1828-31, and 
is of white granite, with ten monolithic Doric col- 
umns, and a graceful and far-viewing dome. It 
contains the legislative halls ; the State Library of 
45,000 volumes; the Rotunda, with 112 battle- 
flags and guidons of the Maine volunteers in 186 1-5; 
and the portraits of Pepperrell, Pownall, Knox, 
Washington, and Lincoln. The Maine General 
Hosp.ital is at Portland. The Maine Industrial 




TOGUS : OLD SOLDIERS' 




PORTLAND HARBOR I FORT GORGES. 



THE STATE OE MA EXE. 



317 





\ 




ln^ 


^^^^ 






*■'--% '■" -^^^^^^S 



BRUNSWICK . BOWDOIN COLLEGE. 



I 



School for Girls, at Ilallovvell, is a refuge 
for the friendless and imperilled, but not 
a place of punishment. The State Prison 
was founded in 1824, at Thomaston, and 
has 170 convicts. The State Insane 
Asylum has 600 inmates. 

The Maine Volunteer Militia in- 
cludes a brigade of two infantry regi- 
ments (of eight companies each) and a battery, and the Frontier Guards, of Eastport ; and 
is kept in an efficient condition by regular encampments, inspected by United-States offi- 
cers. The Reserve Militia consists of a small and diminishing number of independent 
companies, kept up without expense to the State. 

The United-States Buildings in Maine include the beautiful white-marble Post- 
office and the granite Custom House, at Portland ; public offices in several other cities ; the 
Kennebec Arsenal, at Augusta, with several thousand stand of arms and many cannon ; 
and the United-States Marine Hospital, near Portland, overlooking the beautiful Casco 
Bay. The Navy Yard, at Kittery, dates from 1806, and occupies an island in the Pisca- 
taqua River, with works which have employed 1,000 men at once, but are now in a ruinous 
condition. The famous old war-ship Constitidion is kept here. Widow's Island, in Penob- 
scot Bay, is a sanitarium maintained by the Government for the quarantine and treatment 
of the sick with yellow fever. The Eastern Branch of the National Home for Disabled 
Volunteer Soldiers occupies an estate of 1,700 
acres, formerly used as a summer resort, at 
Togus Springs, five miles from Augusta 
This domain has been ceded by Maine to the 
United States, and is the home of 2,200 
uniformed veterans, from many States. The 
fortifications of Maine include Fort McClary, 
at Kittery Point ; Forts Preble, Scammel, waterville : colby university. 

and Gorges, in Portland Harbor ; Fort Popham, at the mouth of the Kennebec ; and 
Fort Knox, on the lower Penobscot. The only garrison is one company of United-States 
artillery, at Fort Preble. 

Education, — The State Normal vSchools are at Castine, Gorham, and P^armington, 
with the Madawaska Training- School, at Fort Kent. The public schools are thoroughly 
efficient, and receive their support from State and town taxes. Bowdoin College, at Bruns- 
wick, was incorporated in 1794 and opened in 1802, with a State endowment. It also 
received large gifts from James Bowdoin, sometime Minister to Spain and France, the son 
of Gov. Bowdoin, the great-grandson of Pierre Baudouin, a Huguenot gentleman of La 
Rochelle, who came to Portland in 1689. Nathaniel Hawthorne, Henry W. Longfellow, 
and Franklin Pierce were students here, at the same time. The sombre beauty of the adja- 
cent pine-groves, the riches of the Bowdoin gallery of paintings, the stone Memorial Hall, 
the frescoed chapel, and the library of 40,000 volumes, are among the treasures of the col- 
lege. There are 190 students, of whom 170 are from Maine ; and in the con- 
nected Medical School there are eighty students, seventy of whom are Maine 
men. Nearly 4,000 students have graduated here. Colby Univer- 
sity, at Waterville, on the Kennebec, was opened in 181 8, and is a 
Baptist institution, with several brick and stone buildings, and a 
library of 25,000 volumes. It has 120 students, young men and 
women. The State College of Agriculture and the Mechanic Arts, 
at Orono, on the Penobscot, dates from 1S68, and has 120 students, 
uniformed in blue and gray, and drilled as a battalion by a resident 
PORTLAND ; public LIBRARY. Uulted-Statcs officer. There are five buildings, and a farm of 370 





3^8 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




PORTLAND HARBOR. 



acres. Bates College, near Levviston, is a Free- 
Baptist institution for both sexes, founded in 1863. 
It has ten instructors and 137 students. The 
Bangor Theological Seminary, founded in 1814, 
is a Congregational institution. 

The Free Public Library, presented to Port- 
land in 1889 by J. P. Baxter, is a handsome 
Romanesque building. The Bangor Library has 
25,000 volumes ; and the Maine Historical Society, 10,000. The libraries at Livermore, 
Hallowell, Saco, and Belfast have much architectural beauty. 

Chief Cities, — Portland, "the Forest City," is beautifully situated on a hilly penin- 
sula of Casco Bay, and has a deep and well-sheltered harbor, and a shipping of over 100,000 
tons. For many years it has served as a winter-port for Canada, which sends out from 
and receives thence $50,000,000 worth of goods yearly. The Indians destroyed Portland 
in 1676; the French and Indians, in 1690; the British, in 1775 ; and in 1866 a fire swept 
away $6,250,000. Bangor, a handsome city, on the Penobscot, is one 
of the great lumber-marts of the world. Augusta, the capital, is a 
handsome city on the Kennebec River, with a great water-power and 
fine public buildings. Biddeford and Saco are twin cotton-manufac- 
turing cities. Lewiston and Auburn are contiguous cities, with many 
cotton-mills. Around the beautiful Penobscot Bay are Rockland, with 
its active coasting-fleet ; Camden, with its anchor-works ; Belfast 
once famous for its gallant ships ; and Castine, a tranquil village and 
summer-resort, surrounded by the ruins of French, British, and 
American forts. Down on the New-Brunswick border is Calais, with 
its ship-yards on the St. Croix ; Eastport, perched on a hilly island in 
Passamaquoddy Bay; and Lubec, the easternmost American village. 
In Maritime Trade, Maine stands among the foremost States. 
It has 2, 500 vessels (120 steamers), of 500,000 tons. In the four years, 
1882-5, 500 vessels were built in Maine, with a tonnage of 220,000. Twenty of these were 
of above 2,000 tons each. Forty ship yards employ 2,000 men. Many Maine ships rarely 
revisit her shores, after sailing away flying light, but spend their lives carrying cargoes between 
distant ports. Bath, on its magnificent Long Reach, a deep and land-locked stretch of the 
Kennebec, is famous wherever blue water flows for its staunch vessels. 

In fisheries, Maine is second only to Massachusetts, with 450 vessels. The fish caught 
are cod, mackerel, hake, haddock, and pollock. The Maine waters also contain shad, smelt, 
salmon, alewives, flounders, rock cod, and cunners. Fifteen lobster canneries employ 600 
persons ; and others prepare small herring like sardines. There are 6, 500 men, mainly on 
the Kennebec and Penobscot, who cut and store yearly 1,000,000 tons of ice for exportation. 

The Railroads of Maine began ope- 
rations in 1836. The lines from Port- 
land to Boston are owned by the Boston 
& Maine Railroad, the Eastern Division 
running through Portsmouth, Newbury- 
port, and Salem (108 miles), and the 
Western Division through Dover, Exeter, 
and Haverhill (116 miles). The Grand 
Trunk line runs from Portland to Mon- 
treal (297 miles), and beyond. The Can- 
adian Pacific line crosses the savage wild- 
erness, from Lake Megantic to Moose- 
EASTPORT, AND PASSAMAQUODDY BAY. hcad Lake and the Penobscot River. 




BOON-IRLAND LIGHT. 




THE STATE OF MAINE. 



319 




PORTLAND : CITY HALL. 



Notch" through 
route gives the 
the seaboard of 
merce of Canada, 
ticut River and 



The elaborate networks 
of Maine railways are nearly 
all united within the Maine 
Central Railroad system, 
operating 607 miles in the 
State and 166 miles out- 
side, with assets amount- 
ing to $20,000,000. Un- ^OKT^^H^ HARBOR LIGHT. 

til recently its rails were entirely within the State of 

Maine, from Portland east to the Canadian boundary, 

250 miles, with numerous branches from the parent stem. 

Its two lines from Portland to Waterville, one following 

the Kennebec River, the other along the Androscoggin, 

give virtually a double track for 82 miles. Since Maine, with its thousand leagues of 

glorious rocky sea coast, and its illimitable area of game-haunted forests and lakes, has 

become the great summer-park of the Atlantic States, this railway has afforded the best of 

facilities to pleasure-travellers, with Pullman vestibuled trains, and safe and swift service. 

It reaches most of the cities of Maine, and sweeps the State from sea to Northern forest. 

It supplies through-car facilities between "the States" and the Maritime Provinces. A 

new departure is the lease and construction of lines northwest from Portland, attacking 

the White Mountains at their most inaccessible point, penetrating the "Heart of the 
scenery incomparable east of the Rocky Mountains. This 
best facilities for travel from the St. Lawrence valley and 
Maine, the natural winter outlet of the fast-growing com- 
Westward, the Maine Central leads away across the Connec- 
enters Vermont, where connecting lines transport through- 
cars from the sea at Portland to Chicago, by 
way of Lake Champlain, the St. Lawrence 
and Niagara. It is the initial line, also for a 
through-car route to Montreal by the Can- 
adian Pacific Railway, and by extension and 
lease has an air-line to Quebec. The road 
has been very successful, and its phenomenal 

growth in mileage, rolling-stock, stations and train equipment, is a matter which warrants 

much praise to its efficient management. The Union Station, at Portland, ranks with the 

finest in America, and is a perfect gem in architecture, and a model for comfort and 

convenience. The Maine Central also operates the Portland, Mount-Desert & Machias 

Steamboat Line, extending eastward from Portland to Penobscot Bay, Mount-Desert Island, 

and the farther coast of Maine. Altogether, the Maine 

Central is regarded by railroad men as one of the most 

successful and most ably managed roads in the country. 
Steamships. — The beautiful coast of Maine was served 

by a regular steamship line as early as 1823, 

the boats running from Boston to Bath, 

Boothbay, Camden, Belfast, Sedgwick, and 

Eastport. The Bangor line began to run 

in 1833 ; and soon afterward Captain San- 

a new line between Boston and Bangor. 

Steamship Company in 1882 changed its 

ton & Bangor Steamship Company, then 

the presidency and management of William 

ton. It has three fine and comfortably ap- 




PORTLAND : UNION STATION : MAINE CENTRAL RAILROAD. 




BANGOR STEAMSHIP CO. 



ford established 
The San fo 1 d 
name to the Bos- 
and now under 
H. Hill, of Bos- 
pointed vessels, 



320 



firiNC'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 





'^f?'H-i i 1.1,.. '"■«> 



AUBURN : ARA CUSHMAN COMPANY. 



the Penobscot, the Katahdhi, and the Le7tnstoii, each of about 1,500 tons, and carrying above 
500 passengers. Every week-day one of these leaves Boston and Bangor, passing around the 
granite cliffs of Cape Ann ; crossing the magnificent Penobscot Bay, and traversing the broad 
Penobscot River. The steamships touch at many a historic point on the Pine-Tree coast 
— Rockland, whence a connecting boat runs across the bay to Mount Desert ; Camden, 
nestling under high mountains ; Northport, with its breezy camp-meeting grounds ; Belfast, 

devastated by British fleets; Searsport, back of Brigadier 
Island ; Fort Point, with the ruins of Fort Pownall, built 
in 1758; Bucksport, near the great fortress of Fort Knox; 
Winterport, the head of navigation in winter ; and 
Hampden. The Boston & Bangor line is one of the 
most successful and best managed routes in the New- 
England States. 

Manufactures. — Auburn is celebrated for its shoe- 
factories, which have drawn hither an army of intelligent 
workmen. The largest of these belongs to the Ara 
Cushman Company, the foremost shoe-manufacturers 
in Maine. It employs 1,000 hands, occupying three ex- 
tensive four-story buildings, and making an endless 
variety of boots and shoes for men, youths, and boys. 
This immense business is the outgrowth of the little 
one-story "tea can" shop in West Minot, where Ara 
Cushman in 1853 began to make shoes, doing all parts 
of the work himself. After a time, he began to drive 
about through Maine, with horse-loads of his shoes ; and soon found it necessary to hire men 
to help him, and to enlarge his quarters. In 1863 he moved to Auburn; and in 1888 the 
business was incorporated, with Ara Cushman as president and largest stockholder. The 
paid-in capital is $400,000, and the business reaches $1,500,000 a year. 

The paper-mills of Maine have long been celebrated for the excellence of their product. 
One of the best known among them is the establishment of the Poland Paper Company, 
employing 300 men in its works at Mechanic Falls and its chemical fibre mill at Canton ; 
and turning out more than $1,000,000 worth of paper yearly. The paper-making at 
Mechanic Falls began in 1851, and has developed slowly and purely, until now the group 
of mills, equipped with the latest and best devices in machinery, and provided with abund- 
ant clear \vater and water-power, can make daily 22 tons of fine book and newspaper. The 
president of the Poland Paper Company is Arthur Sewall, of Bath, who is also the president 
of the Maine Central Railroad ; and the treasurer is Charles R. Milliken, the proprietor 
of the celebrated Glen House, in the White Mountains, and president of the Portland Roll- 
ing Mill. Aside from 
Uie water-power at Me- 
chanic Falls, the com- 
pany owns the flowage 
[uivileges of three large 
lakes, several miles above 
their mills, where the 
water is held back by- 
substantial stone dams, 
for use during the dry 
season. The importance of clear water is 
well understood by paper manufacturers, 
and the limpid streams of New England 
have been of great value in this industry. 




MECHANIC 

FALLS : 

MILLS OF THE 

POLAND PAPER 

COMPANY, 




>,ooo,<x>o 

I2,2IO 
6 
2,036 
23 
1.093 
1. 231 
2,167 



The pleasant shores of 

Maryland were in ancient 

times the dwelling-places of 

the powerful Susquehan- 

nough Indians, a seceded and 

hostile Iroquois clan, and 

of several Algonquin tribes, 

connected with Powhatan's 

confederacy, and getting an 
easy livelihood in the fisheries. The last fragments of the 
Chesapeake aborigines now dwell in Canada, near Lake Erie. 
After the failure of his Christian colony of Avalon, in 
Newfoundland, Lord Baltimore visited Virginia. He came 
originally from Yorkshire, the home also of the Fairfaxes of 
Virginia and the Wentworths of New Hampshire ; and in 
Parliament had distinguished himself as the friend of the 
King. Hearing that the northern part of Virginia, beyond 
the Potomac, was a fertile and valuable country, and quite 
unoccupied (save by tag-rag Indians), he secured it for him- 
self and his heirs, as a county palatine, with the first pro- 
prietary government in America, and the most liberal privi- 
leges ever granted to a colony. The domain belonged to 
Virginia, according to her original charter, but, as the lat- 
ter was a Royal Province, it became easy for the King to 
detach this section for his friend. The charter granted by 
King Charles I. to the moribund Sir George Calvert, the first 
Lord Baltimore, was issued to his son, Cecilius, who sent his 
brother, Leonard Calvert, to colonize the country. Fully 200 
persons, gentlemen adventurers and their servants, sailed in 
the Ark and the Dove, in 1633, and settled at St. Mary's 
(near Point Lookout), where the first legislative assembly 
met, in 1635. The colonists were a mixture of Protestants 
and Catholics, about equally divided. Calvert himself was 
a Catholic, and sent with them two Jesuit priests ; but they 
bound themselves to not "directly or indirectly trouble, molest or discountenance any person 
whatsoever in the Province professing to believe in Jesus Christ, for or in respect of his or her 
religion." Such mutual forbearance was an approach toward religious freedom, then almost 



Settled at St. Mary's. 

Settled in 1634 

P'ounded by .... Englishmen. 
One of the Original 13 States. 
Population in i860, . . . 687,049 

In 1870, 7^.894 

In i88o, . . ■ g3-l-943 

White, 724,693 

Colored, 210,250 

American-born, . 
Foreign-born, .... 82,806 

Males, 462,187 

Females, 472,756 

Jo(U. S. Census), , . 1,042,390 

White, 824,149 

Colored 218,004 

Population to the square mile, 94.8 
Voting Population, . . . 131,106 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 99,986 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 106,168 
Net State Debt, . . $2,724,123.56 
Real and Personal Prop- 
erty, ...... S48' 

Area (square miles), . . . 
U. S. Representatives (ib93), 
.Militia (Disciplined), . . . 

Counties 

I'ost-offices 

Railroads (miles), .... 

Vessels, 

Tonnage 141. 431 

Manufactures (yearl)), 8106,771,393 

Operatives, 74>942 

Yearly Wages, . . . .$18,904,065 
Farm Land (in acres), . . 5,185,221 
Farm-Land Values, 8165,503,341 
Farm Products (yearly), $28,839,281 
Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 99>22o 

Newspapers 200 

Latitude, . . . 37''53' to 39°44' N. 
Longitude, . . 75°2' to 79''3o' W. 
Temperature, . . . —6° to 102" 
Mean Temperature (Haltiniore), 54° 

TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Balti.nore, 434.439 

Cumberland, 12,720 

Hagerstown, 10,118 

Frederick, 8,193 

Annapolis, 7>^4 

Cambridge, 4.192 

Frostburg 3.804 

Havre de Grace 3.244 

Easton 2,939 

Salisbury, 2,905 



322 



A'/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




■^^V 



CUMBERLAND. 



unknown in the world ; and, although there were stringent laws for banishing or severely 
punishing "vagabonds called Quakers," persons denying the doctrines of the Trinity, etc., 
yet many of different denominations sought and found in Maryland a safe refuge from more 

rigorous enactments elsewhere. Another singular ele- 
ment appeared, when the New-England Puritan mission- 
aries, expelled from Virginia, settled at Providence, 
which afterwards received the name of Anne Arundel's 
Town (and later of Annapolis), in honor of Lord Balti- 
more's wife, the daughter of the Earl of Arundel. This 
colony increased rapidly, and became involved in the 
political complications in England, adhering to the Pro- 
tectorate, while the Governor, by the direction of Lord 
Baltimore, adhered to the party of the King. They re- 
fused to take the oath of allegiance dictated by the Gov- 
ernor, who thereupon with 200 men attacked Providence, to the battle-cry of "Hey for St. 
Mary's." The Roundheads, roaring "In the name of God, fall on," brought the Royal- 
ists to confusion, slaying or wounding 50 men, and making the rest captives. Thus on 
March 25, 1655, occurred the first land-battle between English-speaking men in America, 
the precursor of Saratoga and Lundy's Lane, of Shiloh and Gettysburg. 

Lord Baltimore had much difficulty with Win. Claiborne, of Virginia, whose trading- 
stations on the Isle of Kent and Palmer's Island were three years older than Maryland; and it 
was only after nearly half a century of proscriptions, 
battles and bloodshed that he finally prevailed over this 
valiant pioneer. During the Civil War in England ^»«^«_ 
Richard Ingle captured Maryland for the Common- |l:J{__^ 
wealth, and sent its Jesuit priests in irons to England ; ■ _- 
but Gov. Calvert re-won the colony in 1646. In 1652 
and 16S8 the lord proprietor's government was overthrown 
by Parliament, incited by the Puritans of Maryland, but Lord 
Baltimore resumed the dominion at the Restoration. The fourth 
Lord Baltimore became a Protestant, and in 1 7 14 recovered his do- 
main, after Maryland had been a Crown colony for 26 years. Amid 
its many changes of government, this vigorous province grew strong 
and independent, and in 1774 finally overthrew its feudal proprietors. 

The city of Baltimore was laid out in 1 730, and Frederick (named for Lord Baltimore's son ) 
in 1745. The long boundary dispute between the Baltimores and the Penns was settled 
when the English surveyors. Mason and Dixon, in 1763-7, run a line 258 miles westward from 
the Delaware, marked with stone mile-posts, and at every five miles bearing the sculptured 
arms of Maryland and Pennsylvania. Human slavery never flourished north of this line. 

At the outbreak of the Revolution the State came into action with the foremost, and the 
valor of the Maryland Line illuminated many a battle-field. The chief invasion occurred in 
1777, when Sir Wm. Howe and his British and Hessian army of 13,000 men sailed up the bay 

and landed on the Elk River, whence they marched 
to their victorious campaign in Pennsylvania. 
Maryland refused to join the United States until 
the Western territories were surrendered to the 
Government by the claimant States, and when this 
was done she entered the Union, in 1790. The 
State suffered greatly during the War of 1812, 
when Admiral Cockburn sailed up and down Ches- 
apeake Bay, with a powerful British fleet, andplun- 
ANTiCTAM : BURNsiDE's BhiDGE. dcicd aud bumcd Krenchtown, Charlestown, Fred- 




ON THE B. & O. RAILROAD. 




THE STATE OF JIIATVLAA'D. 



323 




HAVRE-DE-GRACE BRIDGE, OVER THE SUSQUE- 
HANNA RIVER. 



ericktown, Havre de Grace, North East and George- 
town. Her militia suffered a pitiable defeat at Blad- 
ensburg. Ross, the British commander, advanced 
against Baltimore, saying that he did not care if "it 
rained militia ; " but the local volunteers, with a Vir- 
ginia brigade and some Pennsylvanian companies, gave 
him a strong battle at North Point. He won the field, 
but lost his life and many of his men. Fort McHenry, 
covering the approach to the city from the sea, suc- 
cessfully endured and returned a bombardment of 19 
hours, from Cockburn's squadron, and during this 
storm of fire and iron, Francis Scott Key, a Marylander imprisoned on the fleet, wrote the 
noble national song, "The Star-Spangled Banner." Baltimore escaped capture. 

The first American telegraph was built from Baltimore to Washington, in 1844, with a 
Government appropriation of $40,000; and the first message over the wires was: "What 
hath God wrought ? " 

Although a slave State, Maryland refused to join in the Secession movement. The Legis- 
lature convened at Frederick, and favored neutrality. The local Confederates took an 
active part, and made a bold attack on the 6th Massachusetts Infantry, hurrying through 
Baltimore to the rescue of the National capital. This was the first bloodshed of the civil 

war. They also burned the bridges north and east 
of Baltimore, to prevent the advance of National 
troops to Washington. 

After Lee had defeated McClellan and Pope in 
1S62, he threw his army into Maryland, occupied 
Frederick, and summoned the people to rise against 
the Union. But the Marylanders refused ; and 
McClellan, hurrying after him, stormed the passes of 
South Mountain, and hurled the 70,000 men of the 
Army of the Potomac in detachments against his 
40,000 troops, in position behind Antietam Creek. 
The military prison at Point Lookout was opened in July, 1863, and interned more than 
50,000 Confederate captives — 21,000 at one time. After defeating the Army of the Poto- 
mac twice on the Rappahannock, in 1863, Gen. Lee again overran western Maryland, 
during the Gettysburg campaign. Once more the Confederates entered the State, when 
Early led 12,000 veterans from the Valley of Virginia to seize Washington; and Lew. 
Wallace, held him in check at the Monocacy long enough to save the National capital, 
losing 1,400 men on the field. McCausland's Southern cavalry meanwhile swept through 
western Maryland into Pennsylvania. Finally, Phil. Sheridan took command of 22,000 
foot and 8,000 horse, and forced the Confederates back into Virginia. From this State 
46,638 soldiers served in the United-States armies, and 12,000 in the Confederate forces. A 
portion of these troops in the Southern army bore 
the title of "The Maryland Line," and by their 
valor proved themselves no unworthy descendants 
of their Revolutionary sires. Their kinsmen on the 
Union side were not less distinguished for bravery, 
and some of the most obstinate fighting of the civU 
war occurred between opposing commands from this 
State. Among these battle-episodes one of the 
most notable was the bitter fight at Front Royal, 
Va., between the First Maryland Union Regiment 
and the First Maryland Confederate Regiment. Washington aqueduct : cabin-john bridge. 




WILLIAMSPORT, ON THE POTOMAC. 




324 



A'/iVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




FIRST PASSENGER COACH ON 1 
BALTIMORE &. OHIO RAILROAD 




The Eastern Shore received settlement later than the Western Shore, although the Indians 
migrated at an early date. In colonial days, "De Esen Sho' " was occupied by great man- 
ors, with massive wide-hailed mansions of English brick, whose masters were famous for 
their hospitality and their pedigrees, and shipped their tobacco 
and their eldest sons direct to England from the wharves on their 
own estates. The eight Eastern counties all had old English 
names, and their gentry were punctilious communicants of the 
Anglican Church, good riders and enthusiastic hunters, and 
kindly disposed toward the plain people and negroes. When the 
Revolution broke out, Royalist camps sprang up all through 
Worcester and Somerset Counties ; and it took 
i,ooo patriot troops to scatter them. Four 
times the King's men rose in arms, but their 
Republican neighbors beat them down as often, 
besides sending to the Continental army the 
entire Second and part of the First Regiment of 
the Maryland Line, and hundreds of gallant 

bALTiMOH. . .._„„ „,„,i^;,. riders in Pulaski's Legion and Baylor's horse. 

For 70 years after the Revolution the Eastern Shore ran down, losing in population, health 
and fertility. During the Civil War, many of its people were fiery Secessionists, and thou- 
sands of them enlisted in the Confederate army. The reforms in education, farming pro- 
cesses, live-stock and other things began in 1850, and though interrupted by the war, have 
since gone forward hopefully. 

The Name of the Province, given by King Charles 
I., was Ter>-a MaricP, or Maryland, in honor of his wife, 
Queen Henrietta Maria. The name originally intended 
was Crescentia, referring probably to the crescent shape 
of the new domain. Maryland, My Maryland, 
a favorite pet name for the State, is the refrain of a 
song written by J. R. Randall, in i860, urging her 
to join the Southern Confederacy. The melody was 
the famous old Laiiriger Horathis. Other pet names, 
now nearly forgotten, are The Old-Line State and 
The Cockade State. The old Maryland Line 
ranked among the finest bodies of troops in the Continental Army, being largely made 
up of patrician young men, and held in admirable discipline. They were the dandies of 
the army, and among their other equipments wore brilliant cockades. The very flower of 
these troops, Smallwood's battalion, was led by Lord Stirling against a vastly superior force 
of Cornwallis's grenadiers, charging through the broken American lines at the battle of Long 
Island. The Marylanders checked the triumphant onset of the British veterans and saved 
the army, but in a brief 20 minutes 260 of their number perished. 

The Arms of Maryland are the arms of Lord 
Biltimore, six pieces, impaled, quartered with crosses 
1 uttoned at each end. Above is a count palatine's cap ; 
nd the crest is a helmet, a ducal crown, and two half 
1 mnerets. The supporters are a fisherman and a 
f Timer, The motto of Maryland is that of the 
CaUert family: Fatti Maschii, Parole Femine, 
an Italian proverb, cited in the great Dictionary of 
the Accademia della Crusca, thus: "Deeds are 
males, and words females," and implying that where 




PRINCE GEORGE'S : MARYLAND AGRICULTURAL 
COLLEGE. 




RELAY HOU E A D WASHINGTON VIADUCT 



deeds are needed, ivords will not suffice. 



325 




UNT ST. -MARY 



THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 

The Governors of Maryland numbered sixteen 
under the Proprietary system and several under the 
Colonial, besides Parliament's commissioners and the 
Council of Safety. State: Thos. Johnston, 1777-9; 
Thos. Sim Lee, 1779-82; \Vm. Paca, 1782-5; Wm. 
Smallwood, 1785-8; John Eager Howard, 1788-91 ; 
Geo. Plater, 179 1-2; Thos. Sim Lee, 1792-4; John 
Haskins Stone, 1794-7; John Henry, 1797-8; Benj. 
Ogle, 1798-1801; John Francis Mercer, 1801-3; Rob- 
ert Bowie, iSo3-6and 181 1-2; Robert Wright, 1806-9; 
Edw. Lloyd, 1809-11 ; Levin Winder, 1812-5 ; Chas. 
Ridgely, 1815-8; Charles Goldsborough, 1818-9; Samuel Sprigg, 1819-22; Samuel 
Stevens, Jr., 1822-5; Jos. Kent, 1825-8; Daniel Martin, 1828-29 and 1831 ; Thos. King 
Carroll, 1829-30; Geo. Howard, 1831-4; Jas. Thomas, 1834-7; Thos. W. Veazey, 1837-9; 
William Grason, 1839-42; Francis Thomas, 1 842-5 ; Thos. G. Pratt, 1845-8; Phil. F. 
Thomas, 1S4S-51 ; Enoch Lewis Lowe, 185 1-4; Thos. Watkins Ligon, 1854-8 ; Thos. Hol- 
liday Hicks, 1858-62 ; Aug. W. Bradford, 1862-5 ; Thos. Swann, 1865-8 ; Oden Bowie, 
1868-72; Wm. Pinkney Whyte, 1872-4; Jas. B. Groome, 1875-6; John Lee Carroll, 
1876-S0; Wm. T. Hamilton, 1880-4; Robert M. McLane, 1884-6; Henry Lloyd, 1881 -8 ; 
Elihu E. Jackson, 1888-92 ; and Frank Brown, 1892-6. 

Descriptive. — Maryland is one of the most eccentric in shape of the States, cut into 
sections by Chesapeake Bay and its many inlets, and bounded for a long distance on the 
south by the much-winding Potomac, which leaves it 120 miles wide on the bay, and 120 
miles west of there reduces it to a width of four miles. The State is divided into the East- 
ern Shore, a level country, east of Chesapeake Bay, abounding in vast peach-orchards, and 
with quick railway communication with Philadelphia and New York ; Southern Maryland, 
the seat of the earliest settlements, with its level and naturally fertile lands, now exhausted, 
and sold at low prices ; Central Maryland, including the thickly settled market-gardening 
and manufacturing counties of Baltimore, Harford and Howard ; and Western Maryland, 
rich in mines and beautiful with mountains. Southern Maryland embraces the tide-water 
counties of St. Mary's, Prince-George's, Charles, Calvert and Anne-Arundel, an angular 
peninsula between Chesapeake Bay and the Potomac River. In general physical features 
it resembles the Eastern Shore. The climate is mild and delightful, and the scenery along 
the creeks is pleasant, with a very varied and luxuriant vegetable growth. 

Chesapeake Bay, the chief physical feature of Maryland, is the largest American inlet of 
the sea, being fully 200 miles long, and navigable for the heaviest ships. At its mouth, be- 
tween Cape Charles and Cape Henry, the width is twelve miles, and higher up, near the Poto- 
mac, it reaches 20 miles. It contains many islands, and covers 2,835 square miles, with more 
than 400 miles of coast line. The Susquehanna River, emptying near the head of the bay, 
is navigable for only four or five miles. The estuaries 
which open away from the Chesapeake into tide-water 
Maryland and Virginia are of remarkable diversity. 
The Light-House Board has 24 lights on the bay, with- 
in the Maryland lines, with eleven in the Patapsco 
River, and seven in the Potomac. Chesapeake is from 
the Algonquin Gitchi, or Kichi, " Great," and Sipi, or 
Sipik, "Water." The bay abounds in edible fish; 
and its shores, haunted by canvas-back ducks and 
other game-birds, afford a favorite hunting-ground for 
enthusiastic sportsmen, especially during the autumn. 
Terrapin are found in perfection in these waters ; and 
the black asd striped bass of Port Deposit and Tred- annapous : st. -john-s college. 




326 




CRISFIELD : OYSTER FLEET. 




BALTIMORE ; 



BOOTH PACKING CO. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

avon, the moccason of Spesutia Island, the white 
perch of Betterton, the sheepshead of Oxford, the 
herring of the lower Potomac, the bay mackerel of 
the Choptank, and the weak-fish of Crisfield, are of 
famed excellence. The oyster-beds have a great 
value, and cover immense areas in the estuaries and 
inlets, certain exempted grounds of which are pro- 
tected against the depredations of Virginian dredgers 
by a fleet of small armed vessels, maintained by 
Maryland, but often eluded or resisted, and some- 
times driven away. Baltimore is the chief oyster- 
packing city of the world. The Chesapeake oysters are the finest known, and the yearly pro- 
duct is 15,000,000 bushels, more than half of which is shipped from Cambridge, Crisfield and 
other places on the Eastern Shore. The shad and herring fisheries of Cecil and Harford have 
a great value, and employ many men. The Alleghany streams have been successfully stocked 
with the celebrated California rainbow trout. At Bal- 
timore is the A. Booth Packing Co.'s main establish- 
ment, where oysters, fruits and vegetables are packed 
in cans in enormous quantities. 

The Potomac River rises in the Alleghanies, and 
flows through a maze of mountains to Harper's Ferry. 
At the Great Falls it descends 80 feet in i^ miles, 40 
feet being in a single plunge, amid rocky islands, and 
then it traverses the Little Falls, a line of rapids falling 
37 feet. In this vicinity the noble aqueduct supplying Washington with water from Great 
Falls crosses Cabin-John Bridge, a beautiful granite span of 220 feet, and the longest stone 
arch in the world. Fifteen miles below the falls is the city of Washington, 380 miles from 
the source of the river, and 106^ miles from Chesapeake Bay. This lower reach of the 

Potomac is navigable for large vessels, and finally 
enters the bay by a low-shored estuary 7^ miles 
wide. The Patuxcnt River, famous for its oyster- 
beds, is navigable for 46 miles ; the Patapsco, 
for 14 miles ; and the Choptank and Nanti- 
coke for several leagues each. 

The Eastern Shore is that part of Maryland 
east of Chesapeake Bay, largely a fertile alluvial 
plain of light sandy loam and clay, free from 
stones, dotted with forests of oak and chestnut, 
and traversed by the estuaries of the Choptank, 
Pocomoke, Nanticoke, Chester and Elk Rivers. 
Nearly 4,000 out of the 5,980 square miles of the 
peninsula between Chesapeake Bay and Delaware 
Bay belongs to Maryland, forming nine counties. 
Along the harborless ocean-side of the Eastern 
Shore, 33 miles long, extends the shallow lagoon 
of Assateague (Synepuxent) Bay, with a narrow 
sand-strip outside. Ocean City, the leading sea- 
shore resort, stretches its hotels and cottages along 
ith the gently sloping beach on one side, and on 
2 still waters of the bay. On the Chesapeake side 
the summer-resorts are Oxford and Fair Haven, Tolchester and Bay Ridge. 

Wheat, corn, oats, rye and barley grow here, and melons, peaches, strawberries and 




THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



327 




CATOCTIN : THE POTOMAC RIVER. 



Other fruits. Stock-raising and dairy-farming are also becoming important 
industries. Tlie marl-beds afford abundant supplies of fertilizing material. 

The western shore of tide-water Maryland lies between 
the Potomac, just above Washington, and the Susquehanna, 
including the west inlets of the Chesapeake. For the most 
])art this region consists of rolling plains, rising in the 
south to the cliffs of the Patuxent. It covers 3,968 square 
miles, including Howard, Montgomery, Baltimore, Har- 
f ird, Carroll and Frederick Counties. West of the tide- 
water region Maryland rises gradually to the great Blue Ridge and the Alleghany Mountains, 
a series of long ridges parallel with the coast, and enclosing beautiful valleys 20 miles or 
more in width. The mountains begin beyond Frederick with the long Catoctin Range and 
South Mountain, and extend to the west frontier, the main Alleghany range lying just west 
of Cumberland. South Mountain ends with the towering escarpment of Maryland Heights, 
1,456 feet high, overlooking Harper's Ferry and the confluence of the Potomac and Shenan- 
doah Rivers, and the seat of formidable batteries during the Secession War. Between South 
and Catoctin Mountains opens the lovely Middletown Valley, at whose head stand the sum- 
mer-resorts of Penmar and the Blue-Mountain House, 2,000 feet above the sea, and com- 
manding a view far up the Cumberland Valley into Pennsylvania. High Rock overlooks 

l^arts of four States, scores of historic towns, and the 
grand outlines of the Blue Ridge and the Potomac 
Valley. The Glades is a plateau of 400 square miles 
on top of the Alleghany Mountains, 2,500 feet above 
the sea, beginning at Altamont. In this lofty region 
are the summer resorts of Deer Park, Mountain-Lake 
Park and Oakland, along the Baltimore & Ohio Rail- 
load. Braddock's Road was built in 1755, from Alex- 
andria (Va.) to Cumberland and Frostburg, and north 
into Pennsylvania, to pass the British army to their 
fatal battle near Pittsburgh. Much of it may still be 
traced, and the forts erected along the route are partly 
, BRIDGE, ON THE B. & o. R. R. prescrvcd. The National Road, from Baltimore to 
Ohio, was constructed early in this century, for a highway between the Ohio and tide-water. 
The Climate of the State is temperate and salubrious, except on the waterside low- 
lands, where miasma sometimes prevails. The penetration of the land by Chesapeake Bay 
and its many estuaries gives a certain marine softness to the air and temperature. 

The Farm-Products of Maryland include yearly 16,000,000 bushels of corn, 6,000,- 
000 of wheat, 2,000,000 of oats, 2,500,000 of potatoes, 300,000 tons of hay, and 28,000,000 
pounds of tobacco, the whole valued atneiilv ^^.o 000 000 
Peaches, strawberries, and other delicate fruits ^low amam 
in the fertile lowlands. It ranks as the ^ ^ 

seventh state in the growth of tobacco, 
and at one time the crop of Prince-George 
County was the largest in the Union. 

Farming utilizes more than half the 
soil of Maryland. I larford County alone 
has 400 houses engaged in canning fruits 
and vegetables, their product reaching 
1,000,000 cases a year. There are 850,000 
head of live-stock; and the mutton ami 
dairy-products of the hill-counties are of finicd excellence The peaches melons and stiau- 
berries of the Eastern Shore are sent in \ i t (juantitics to the cit) markets 




ROWLEYSBURG 





^*x.M_w^ 






■^'>Kr'~j-^ 



%^^_ 






-4^ 



ANTIETAM 
NATIONAL 
CEMETERY 



328 



A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




BALTIMORE : CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL. 



IWi 



Minerals. — The coal-mines consist of horizontal strata, like the Big Seam of George's 
Creek, 14 feet thick, between Dan's Mountain and Savage Mountain. This coal-basin is 30 
miles long and five miles wide, and contains many villages of Welsh and Scottish miners. 
Much of the valuable Cumberland semi-bituminous coal comes from near Frostburg, 
2,300 feet high 1 on Savage Mountain. The Cumberland coal is jet-black, glossy and 
friable, and makes a good steam fuel. Mining began in 1842, 
and 17 companies ship 2,500,000 tons yearly. 

Mineral products include chrome iron of the Bare Hills, 
specular iron of Sykesville, and zinc, iron and copper of the 
Frederick region. There are 22 blast-furnaces, making from 
20,000 to 60,000 tons of iron yearly. The Maryland quar- 
ries produce brecciated marble, slate, sandstone, limestone, 
porphyry, tripoli, marl and kaolin. The Maryland serpen- 
tine (or green marble) and the black serpentine of Harford 
County are used in ornamental work. Grindstones, mill- 
stones and hones are made from the local buhr-stone ; epsom salts, from magnesite found 
here ; lime, from the quarries in Baltimore County ; mica comes from Howard County, and 
granite, from Port-Deposit ; and Northeast has active fire-brick, kaolin and pottery works. 
Much of the marble used in building the National Capitol came from Baltimore County. The 
State has many mineral waters, the chief being Carroll White-Sulphur Springs. 

The Government consists of a quadrennially elected governor; several executive officers; 
the biennial General Assembly, composed of 26 senatoi -. an I oi d i ates ; and the Court of 
Appeals, and minor courts. The State Constitution 
dates from 1867. The State House at Annapolis 
dates from 1773, and overlooks Chesapeake Bay and 
the Severn River. It is a large brick structure of 
graceful proportions, crowned by a dome, and sur- 
rounded by pleasant enwalled grounds. It contains 
several historical paintings, and portraits of the gov- 
ernors and the four Maryland signers of the Declara- 
tion of Independence. In the Senate Chamber, Gen. 
Washington resigned his commission as commander 
of the army. The State Library numbers 80,000 volumes. The Treasury is a venerable 
building near the State House, once the home of the old Provincial Assembly. The Record 
Office holds the archives of Maryland. Government House is the official home of the gov- 
ernors. The militia is composed of one regiment and five companies of infantry, and five 
companies of cavalry. The State Penitentiary at Baltimore has above 600 convicts, a ma- 
jority of them colored. The Institution for the Education of the Deaf and Dumb was opened 
in 1868 at Frederick. Colored deaf-mutes and blind persons have their asylum at Baltimore. 
The Maryland Institution for the Instruction of the Blind, near Baltimore, has 250 inmates. 
The Maryland Hospital for the Insane, at Catonsville, known as the Spring-Grove Asylum, 
six miles from Baltimore, is an immense structure of Ellicott- 
Citj granite, facing the Patapsco River and Chesapeake Bay, 
and also the Blue Ridge. Near Baltimore are the 
huge Bay-View Asylum, the House of Refuge for 
vagrant and vicious children of both sexes, the 
Mount-Hope Asylum (Catholic), and many kindred 
institutions. The McDonogh Foundations, from a 
bequest of nearly $1,000,000, have been utilized in 
a large farm-school for boys of the virtuous poor, 
twelve miles from Baltimore. 

The Maryland Confederate Home occupies the 




POINT or hOcKS, A.-D POTOMAC 







BALTIMORE BLIND ASYLUM 



THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



329 




BALTIMORE : 
ENOCH-PRATT FREE LIBRARY. 



fine old Arsenal buildings and park at Pikesville, six miles from Baltimore, and has 33 in- 
mates, mainly old soldiers of Lee's Army of Northern Virginia. 

Education, served by sufficient State, county and local taxes, is supervised by a State 
Board of Education. Colored children have separate schools. The State Normal School 
and the Howard Normal School (for colored students) were established 
at Baltimore in 1865. The Maryland Agricultural College has a farm of 
286 acres, in Prince-George County, eight miles from Washington ; and 
its buildings on College Hill command a noble view. Chartered in 
1856 and opened in 1859, it is the second existing college of agri- "^ 
culture founded in America. The farm and buildings were paid for 
by liberal citizens ; and the college thus founded afterwards received 
State and Government aid, on condition that the students form a bat- 
talion of cadets, clad in gray West-Point suits. One of its depart- 
ments, the Maryland Agricultural Experiment Station, publishes and 
distributes free valuable bulletins and reports. 

Johns-Hopkins University, endowed by its founder with $3,000,- 
000, and incorporated in 1867, was opened at Baltimore in 1876, to 
afford collegiate education, and also (and mainly) the higher uni- 
versity education for college-graduates. It is perhaps the culmina- 
tion of American educational systems; and has also exerted a profound influence upon the 
young men of Maryland, who are turning toward their renowned university, as a noble substi- 
tute for the field-sports and the careless life of earlier days. More than half of the students 
have graduated at other colleges, largely those of the South and West. The university has 
55 instructors and 400 students, including 60 from the South (besides Maryland's 185), 40 
from the Middle States, 25 from New England, and 25 foreigners. 
There are 15 free scholarships eligible for students from each of 
the States of Maryland, Virginia and North Carolina. Among the 
students are 9 doctors of philosophy, 22 doctors of medicine, 17 
clergymen, and 2 18 holders of other degrees. The courses of study 
are History and Political Science, with 162 students ; Chem- 
istry, 124; German, 119; English and Anglo-Saxon, 94; Mathe- 
matics and Astronomy, 82; Biology, 81; Drawing, 78; Physics, 
74 ; Romance Languages and Latin, 69 ; Greek, 58 ; Elocution, 
53 ; Logic, Ethics and Psycology, 48 ; Semitic Languages, 43 ; 
(ifJS Sanscrit, 39; Mineralogy, 38; and Pathology, 24. The Amer- 
ican Jbiirnal of ]\Iathematics, American Chemical yonrnal, Amer- 
ican yournal of Philology, and other learned publications are 
issued under the auspices of the University. The library contains 
35,000 volumes ; and the collections in mineralogy, physics and 
mathematics have great value. Warner & Swasey, of Cleveland (Ohio), designed and built 
the gi-inch equatorial telescope and the 21 -foot steel dome. The Johns-Hopkins Hospital 
occupies a commanding site with a magnificent E-shaped group of 17 buildings, of brick and 
Cheat River blue-stone, occupying an estate of 14! acres on Broadway. 
It was endowed by Johns Hopkins with $3,400,000, and 
opened its doors in 1889. The capacity is 400 patients; 
and the details of the buildings and corridors, heating and 
ventilation are the results of years of study of European hos- 
pitals, and the councils of distinguished American doctors. 
It is the largest hospital in America, and perfect as any in 
the world. Here, also, is a nurses' training-school, with 
a course of several years, including medical instruction, 
preparing women for hospital, family or district nursing. 




METHODIST 




BALTIMORE 



33° 



K/A'CPS HAXDnOOK OF THE UXITED STATES. 



St. -Jolm's College traces its inception to tlie year 167 1, when the General Assemlily 
of Maryland ordered the foundation of a school or college for the education of youth 
in learning and virtue. The result was King William's School, opened in 1701, and suIj- 
sequently merged into St. -John's College, which began its teachings in 1789. Among its 
graduates were \Vm. Pinkney, Reverdy Johnson, and Francis Scott Key (author of "The 
Star- Spangled Banner"). The college was closed (and used as a military hospital) dur- 
ing the Secession War. It is largely patronized by Episcopal families. The emerald green 
campus of 20 acres, between College Avenue and College Creek, and near the Severn River 
and the United-States Naval Academy, has the venerable colonial McDowell Hall in the 



Pinkney Hall, Humphrey 
are twelve instructors and 
gray - uniformed battalion 
artillery drill and tactics, 
town, was formed from 
and Gen. Washington 
consented to its being 
its benefactors and officers. 
atColora, dates from 1741. 
Westminster. Mount St. - 



centre, flanked by the ivy-clad 
Hall, and other buildings. There 
92 students, the latter forming a 
of cadets, instructed in infantry and 
Washington College, at Chester- 
the old Kent Free School, in 1783; 
(then encamped at Newburgh) 
named for him, and became one of 
The West-Nottingham Academy, 
Western Maryland College is at 
Mary 'sCoUege, founded at Emmitts- 
burg in 1808, has a group of stone 
buildings at the foot of the Blue 
Ridge, two miles from the cele- 
brated Academy of St. Joseph's (for young 
ladies) and the mother-house of the Sisters of 
Charity, founded by Madame Seton. Its gradu- 
ates include Cardinal McCloskey, Archbishops 
Hughes and Purcell and many other eminent pre- 
lates, statesmen and scholars. The College has 
137 students and the ecclesiastical seminary has 
31. Other Catholic schools are St. -Charles Col- 
lege, near EUicott City, preparatory to St. -Sul- 
pice Seminary and St. -Mary's University, at 

Baltimore ; Rock-Hill College, at Ellicott City ; and Woodstock College, for the education 
of young Jesuits, with a three-years' philosophical and a four-years' theological course. The 
library contains 65,000 volumes. Here the young Jesuits of all America receive the tra- 
ditional principles and discipline of the Order of Jesus, with a thorough higher education. 
The Scholasticate of the Congregation of the Most Holy Redeemer is at Ilchester. 

Mary Garrett has recently erected at Baltimore, for the Bryn-Mawr Preparatory School 
for girls, a costly fire-proof building, in whose construction large quantities of imported 
colored and glazed j brick were used. The Baltimore City College, the 

crown of the local i g public-school system, occupies a picturesque build- 

ing in collegiate Gothic architecture. 
The Centenary Biblical Institute of the 
Methodist Church is at Balti- 
more. The School of Law of 
the University of Maryland has 
90 students ; and its School of 
Medicine (founded in 1868) 
has 235. Baltimore has four 
other medical and dental 

BALTIMORE ; JOHNS-HOPKINS HOSPITAL. COUegeS, 




BALTIMORE : JOHNS-HOPKINS UNIVERSITY. 




THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



331 




The Peabody Institute, at Baltimore, endowed in 1857 by George Pcal)ody with 

Jjii, 300,000, occupies a white marble building in Grecian architecture, beautifully situated. 

The library contains 100,000 volumes, mainly those not accessible elsewhere ; and is free to 

all readers. In the gallery of art the best specimens of 

sculpture are duplicated, with many valuable pictures. Its 

conservatory of music instructs 250 students. Its symphonies, 

piano recitals and choral concerts, are at nominal prices. It 

I'urnishes about 100 free lectures by eminent specialists each 

year. George Peabody also founded the Peabody Education 

Fund, now exceeding $2,000,000, and ably managed by a 

distinguished board of trustees, including Robert C. Win- 

throp, Rutherford B. Hayes, Grover Cleveland, Wm. M. 

Evarts, Hamilton Fish, Samuel A. Green, and other distin- Baltimore : the city hall. 

guished men. The income of about $100,000 a year is devoted to education in the South, 

and over $2,000,000 has thus been expended. 

The Enoch-Pratt Free Library at Baltimore was founded in 1882, with $1,250,000, by 

Enoch Pratt, a native of Massachusetts, and for 50 years a Baltimore merchant. Its hand- 
some and fire-proof marble building, opened in 1886, contains a grand reading-room and 

85,000 volumes ; and there are five branch libraries in various sections of the city. The 

revenues of the library's fund of $833,333 i" cash, invested at six per cent., guaranteed by 

tiie city, reach $50,000 a year. Nearly 500,000 books are issued yearly to 42,000 Baltimore 

families. The Maryland Institute for the Promotion of Mechanic Arts has a commodious 

building in Baltimore, with schools of art and design and 
commerce, lecture-courses, night-schools, and 400 students. 
The library contains 26,000 volumes. The Maryland 
Episcopal Library has 18,000 volumes ; the Archiepisco- 
pal, 16,000; the New Mercantile, 40,000; the Bar As- 
sociation, i2,ooo; and there are several other large col- 
lections in Baltimore. The private art collections of Wil- 
liam T. Walters include 200 exceptionally fine paintings, 
and magnificent bronzes, statuary and ceramics. 

The title of "Monumental City" is justly applied to 
Baltimore. The Washington Monument, erected 1816-30, 

is a column of Maryland marble, 180 feet high, crowned by a statue of the first President. 

Battle Monument, commemorating the Baltimoreans who were killed in defending the city 

against the British, in 1814, is a small Egyptian temple of marble, supporting a colossal 

fasces, on which stands a statue representing the city of Baltimore, with a mural crown, 

and bearing a laurel wreath. Here, too, is the Odd-Fellows' (or Wildey) Monument ; 

the McDonogh statue ; and the memorial to James L. Ridgely, grand secretary of the 

I. O. O. F. from 1S40 to 1881. In 1890 the municipality received a bronze statue of George 

Peabody, by W. W. Story. Mount-Vernon Place has a 

statue of Chief- Justice Taney, the gift of William T. 

Walters, and a noble group of bronzes, including Barye's 

"War," "Peace," "Order," and "Force," and P. 

Dubois's "Military Courage." At Annapolis the State 

has erected Rinehart's colossal sitting bronze statue ot 

Roger B. Taney, Chief-Justice of the United States from 

1836 to 1846 ; also, Congress, in 1886, placed here a noble 

statue of the Baron de Kalb, who was mortally wounded 

while commanding the Maryland Line, at the battle of 

Camden (S. C), in 1780. The granite monument to 

Gen. Reno, on the South-Mountain battle-field, and the Baltimore , bryn mawr schcxil. 







BALTIMORE PEABODY INSTITUTE 




332 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




BALTIMORE 




mm 






colossal statue in the National Cemetary at Antictam, 
are among the memorials of the Secession War. 

The Catholics have 130 churches in Maryland, and 
Cardinal Gibbons, the Archbishop of Baltimore, is the 
Primate of the Church for America. His house is con- 
riguous to the famous old Baltimore Cathedral, a som- 
"" bre and massive granite pile, with a classic portico, the 
''"'''^ ' ■■ ^' Cathedral and the Archiepiscopal residence occupying 

a half square. The Methodists of Maryland have upwards of 1,000 churches, with a mem- 
bership of 100,000. The Protestant-Episcopal diocese of Maryland includes 170 churches, 
with 22,000 communicants. The Lutherans have 120 churches; the Baptists, 80; the 
Presbyterians, 60. 

Newspapers. — The first newspaper, The Maryland Gazette, was published at Annap- 
olis from 1745 until 1839. T^^ Maryland yonriial and Baltimore Advertiser, {oMXiA^^'xa. 
\1Tii changed its name in 1820 to the Baltiinore American, and is still 
published. The head and front of Maryland journalism is the Balti- 
more Shu, published by A. S. Abell & Co., daily and weekly, and an 
independent national conservative, enterprising and reliable 
newspaper, with bureaus in the leading news-centres of the 
Union, and an admirable system of departments. The first 
rotary printing machine was ixsed by The Sun, which also re- 
ceived and printed the first document transmitted by telegraph. 
The attractive iron-front building occupied by this paper was 
the first iron structure erected, and is the home of a large body 
of trained writers. In 1836 Arunah S. Abell and two other 
practical printers founded the Public ledger, at Philadelphia ; 
and a year later Mr. Abell founded The Sun, and identified 
himself with Baltimore and this paper, which he managed with 
signal ability and success. When he died, in 1888, full of years and honors, The Sun 
passed under the control of his sons and co-partners, who had personally labored with him 
in the creation and development of the great newspaper which it has grown to be. In their 
hands The Sun promises to be even more influential in the future than in the past, as a factor 

as well as exponent of enlightened public opinion. As 
a leading newspaper in a Democratic State, with a large 
circulation beyond its borders, and published within a 
distance which is covered in less than an hour from the 
National Capital, where its* office is one of the most 
striking and beautiful business build- 
"^^j^^ZZZ^^y^zzz::^ "''SS that adorn that city, The Sun 
enjoys exceptional advantages for ex- 
ercising a wholesome influence upon 
National politics. 

National Institutions. — The 
United-States Naval Academy 
for cadet-midshipmen and en- 
gineers occupies a group of 
commodious buildings in a 
park of 50 acres, fronting on 
the Severn River, at Annapo- 
lis. It was founded in 1845, 
by George Bancroft, then Sec- 
retary of the Navy, and trans- 

BALTIMORE : DRUID-HILL PARK. ■' ^ 




BALTIMORE ; 
' THE BALTIMORE SUN 



P^<< 







THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



IZZ 



ferred to Newport, R. I., during the Secession War. Here stand the Midshipmen's 
Quarters, Officers' Quarters, Gunnery Building, Observatory, Hospital, Department of 
Steam Engineering, and Gymnasium. The Library contains 1 8,000 volumes, and many 
trophies and flags, and portraits of Farragut, Porter, Perry, Decatur, Preble and other naval 
chieftains. The Academy grounds are adorned with fine old trees, monuments to heroes of 
the American fleets, and trophy cannon. There are 57 instructors and 280 naval cadets, 
each Congressional district being entitled to send one youth, physically and mentally sound, 
who must bind himself to serve eight years (including the time at the Academy) in the 
United-States Navy. Each naval cadet receives $500 a year. 

Fort McHenry occupies the site of the Revolutionary battery on Whetstone Point, three 
miles below Baltimore, and is garrisoned by three companies of United- States artillery. It 
is a star-fort of the old style, with a moderate armament. Fort Carroll, on an artificial 
island in the Patapsco, (i\ miles below Baltimore, is an immense and costly granite work, 
with heavy guns in its casemates. Fort Washington is an ancient stone defence, on the 




MONUMENTS 

AT 

BALTIMORE AND ANNAPOLIS. 



Potomac River, 13 miles 
Washington. It was desi 
by Major L'Enfant, in 1812. 
Fort Foote, also on the Potomac, dates from the period of the Secession War. The United- 
States Marine Hospital has a group of modern buildings just north of Baltimore. The 
battle-field of Antietam is consecrated by a National Cemetery, containing the graves of 
4,688 dead heroes. The other National cemeteries are at Annapolis and Loudon Park. 

Chief Cities. — Baltimore, the metropolis of Maryland, stretches along the pleasant 
hills which border a deep estuary of the Patapsco River, 14 miles from Chesapeake Bay. It 
is the fourth maritime city of the Republic, following New York, Boston and New Orleans ; 
and 3,000 foreign vessels arrive and depart yearly, besides an immense coastwise fleet. 
Steamships run to Liverpool, Queenstown, Glasgow, Bristol, London, Belfast, Antwerp, 



334 



A'AVG\S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 







1 5^sa., ■'■ shb'iK 



^iMil? 



BALTIMORE : THE POST-OFFICE. 



Bremen, Havre, and other European ports. The chief exports are petroleum, grain and 
tobacco ; and iron, coffee and salt are imported in great quantities. The convergence of 
many railways makes Baltimore a favorite shipping-point for Western grain and other 
])roducts, which are handled by several elevators. The exports exceed 
$50,000,000 a year. In point of manufactures, this is the eighth American 
city, with iron-mills, smelting-works, sugar-refineries, 
ship-yards, cotton-mills, and other industries, producing 
$135,000,000 a year. At the clearing house its total 
exceeds $700,000,000 a year. The City Hall, built of 
Maryland marble, in 186S-75, cost $2,271,000; the 
United-States Post-Office, a Renaissance palace, cost 
$2,000,000; and the Exchange has Ionic colonnades of 
Italian marble. Among other interesting features are 
the venerable Cathedral, famous in Catholic history; the 
Norman basilica of St. Paul's, pertaining to the Episco- 
palians ; the Peabody Institute ; the Enoch-Pratt Free Library ; the Johns-Hopkins Uni- 
versity; the Masonic Temple and the Odd-Fellows' Hall ; and many imposing churches, 
convents and asylums, and rich libraries. Druid-Hill Park covers over 700 acres, and in- 
cludes a fine old colonial estate, patented in 16S8, and famous for its great oaks. It was 
opened to the people in 1S60, and has noble drives and rambles, lakes and fountains, towers 
and kiosks, bridges and statues, herds of deer and sheep, and a zoological garden. The 

city has several other pleasant parks ; and in 
the suburbs are the beautiful Greenmount and 
Loudon-Park cemeteries. The water-works 
bring water from Loch Raven, on the Gun- 
powder River, to the great reservoirs at Clif- 
ton and in Druid-Hill Park, leading five 
miles through a tunnel, cut through solid 
gneiss. They cost upwards of $5,000,000. 
Baltimore has the finest hotel in Maryland, 
the Hotel Rennert, built in 1885-7, under the 
personal supervision of its owner, Robert Ren- 
nert, and by day-labor, in order to secure a more solid and lasting structure. The first and 
second floors are of tiled concrete and rolled iron beams, and the other floors have asbestos 
felting and plaster on iron lathing, with partitions of hollow concrete blocks, thus making 
the house fire-proof, in addition to which the stairs are of marble and iron. No effort or ex- 
pense has been spared to make the Rennert equal to any hotel in America, in decoration 
and furnishing, ventilation and sanitary arrangements. From the Ariel summer garden on 
the top of the house, a broad view is given over the city and 
suburbs, si tce the hotel stands on high ground, in the fashiona- 
ble quarter oK-]3altimore. Among the guests have been Presi- 
dent Harrison and all his Cabinet, nearly all the United-States 
Senators (Sherman and Hoar, Evarts and Hawley, and others), 
Edwin Booth, Mary Anderson, Adelina Patti and many other 
notables. The Rennert is on the European plan, and the 
cuisine, as well as the elegant and substantial fire-proof struc- 
ture itself, has given to its owner a world-wide fame. 

The quaint old capital of Maryland, Annapolis, with its 
venerable churches and mansions, on streets converging at the 
State House, rests along the Severn River, two miles from 
Chesapeake Bay. Frederick, in the rich limestone plain near 
the Catoctin Mountains, "green-walled by the hills of Mary- 




BALTIMORE : THE COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 




THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



335 




BALTIMORE : OLD POST-OFFICE. 



land," was the scene of Whittier's poem of "Barbara Frietchie." Hagerstown, the capital 
of Washington County, is a manufacturing city, in the hill-country. Cumberland, with 
large rolling-mills and glass-works and country-trade, nestles on the upper Potomac, be- 
tween Wills', Dan's, and the Knobly Mountains, and near the 
gorge of the Narrows. 
The Finances of Maryland are safely and wisely admin- 
istered. The net debt of the State is below $3,000,000 ; 
and the yearly expenditures are about !|2, 500,000. 
Frederick and Annapolis have strong banks ; and there 
is a large capital invested in the financial institutions of 
Baltimore, whose saving-banks alone have deposits ex- 
ceeding !};25,ooo,ooo. The Merchants' National Bank, 
of Baltimore, dates from 1835, having succeeded the 
United-States Bank ; and Johns Hopkins was its presi- 
dent for seventeen years, until his death (in 1873). The 
jiresidency is now occupied by Major Douglas H. Thomas, for nearly thirty years in the 
banking business here. This is the largest bank in Maryland, and has a capital of $ 1, 500,000, 
and a surplus and undivided profits of nearly .f 600,000, making a working capital of above 
$2,000,000, with deposits exceeding $5,000,000. The bank has never passed a dividend, and 
never paid less than six per cent, a year. The directors are conspicuous and influential Balti- 

moreans, whose efforts give strength to this ancient and sue- ^ _ „^ 

cessful institution. The Merchants' National Bank owns and 
occu]3ies one of the quaintest buildings in the South, adjoining 
the old post-office. 

Several of the private banking-houses of Baltimore rank 
among the most solid and substantial in the country, being con- 
ductetl by men of large capital and long experience. Foremost 
among these stands Alexander Brown & Sons, founded in 
1S05, by Alexander Brown, and re-organized in 1811 under its 
present title. The New-York, Philadelphia and Boston bank- 
ing-houses of Brown Bros. & Co., and the London firm of 
Brown, Shipley & Co., originally started as branches of the Baltimore house, are closely 
allied with the Baltimore firm, their American offices being connected by private wires. 
Alexander Brown & Sons conduct a large foreign and domestic business, in stocks and bonds, 
bills of exchange and letters of credit, and the negotiation of railroad and municipal loans. 
The personnel of the firm includes Alexander Brown, a great-grandson of the founder of the 
house, and Wm. G. Bowdoin, for nearly 20 years a partner. Beginning almost with the 
century, this great financial institution has enjoyed a long career of success, and is honorably 
known all over the world. Under the able and conservative influences of financial institu- 
tions like these, the city of Baltimore has attained a noble mercantile preeminence on the 
Southern seaboard, and far into the interior. 

Railroads. — The Baltimore & Ohio Railroad was organized 
in 1S27, and opened construction the next year, reaching Elli- 
cott's Mills in 1830. The work of grading was begun by Charles 
Carroll of CarroUton, then the only surviving signer of the Declara- 
tion of Independence. The motive power was by relays of horses, 
which drew the little trains to Frederick and back, the horses 
■iliViii being changed at the Relay House. The cars were clapboard 
^^^Ki£^ shanties on wheels, 12 feet long, with three windows on each side, 
f^("i£»*!^^^ ^ and a deal table in the centre. The driver sat on a high seat in 
front, and the conductor stood on steps in the rear. One horse 
ALEX BROWN i bONs BANKERS drcw cacli Car, at seven miles an hour ; and when the wheels 




BALTIMORE : 
MERCHANTS' NATIONAL BANK. 




33^ 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




OFFICE OF THE BALTIMORE 
OHIO RAILROAD. 



were made larger, and better horses were used, they made ten miles an hour. In 1830 Peter 
Cooper tried steam-power on the line to Ellicott's Mills, his engine weighing less than a ton, 
with a little upright boiler like that of a kitchen range. This was the first locomotive built 
in America, and Peter Cooper acted as engineer, brakeman and 
conductor of the first passenger-train, containing the directors 
of the road, and making the run of 13 miles in 57 minutes. 
The line reached Harper's Ferry and Washington in 1836; 
Cumberland, in 1842 ; and Wheeling, in 1853. Up to that 
time its 379 miles had cost $15,639,000. The railway has con- 
structed many interesting works, from the noble viaduct at the 
Relay House to the great tunnels, bridges, viaducts and gal- 
leries of the mountain-region. On its grand routes from the 
East to the West, crossing the Alleghany Mountains, the 
Baltimore & Ohio line traverses some of the finest scenery 
on the continent, and passes many historic and interesting 
points, like Harper's Ferry, Cumberland, Pittsburgh, and 
Wheeling, and the famous summer-resorts of Deer Park and 
Oakland. It reaches out from Baltimore to Philadelphia and 
New York, on one side, and by way of Washington to the 
West on the other, finding its farthest terminals at Cincinnati Baltimore 
and Chicago. Its magnificent equipment is unsurpassed on ' 

any road, and its perfect net-work of connections to all routes of the company make the 
Baltimore & Ohio one of the pre-eminent railroads of America. 

The Baltimore & Potomac Railroad runs from Baltimore to Washington, and to Pope's 

Creek, on the lower Po^ 
tomac. 

The Northern Central 
line runs from Baltimore 
to Harrisburg ; the West- 
ern Maryland, from Bal- 
timore to Williamsport; 
and the Maryland Cen- 
tral, from Baltimore to 
Delta (Penn.). There 
are two first-class railways between Baltimore and Philadelphia. The great railway-bridge 
across the Susquehanna at Havre de Grace was built by the Keystone Bridge Co., of Pitts- 
burgh. Railroads running southwest from Delaware traverse the Eastern Shore to Chesa- 
peake Bay, reaching Crisfield, Cambridge, Oxford, Centreville, Chestertown, and Easton. 
The Atlantic Coast Line, from Boston and New York to Florida and the Gulf States, passes 
through Baltimore, where it has well-equipped offices. The 
Chesapeake and Delaware Canal unites the two great bays. 
The Susquehanna & Tide- Water Canal follows the Susque- 
hanna River from Pennsylvania to Havre de Grace. 

The Manufactures of Maryland exceed $100,000,000 
in their annual output, having an invested capital of 
$70,000,000, and employing 75,000 operatives. 

The Southern States are largely supplied with dry goods 
from Baltimore, which in this department of trade is a lead- 
ing distributive centre. One of the great dry-goods houses 
of this country is Hurst, Purnell & Co., whose history, cov- 
ering a period of over half a century, is closely interwoven 
with the mercantile history of Baltimore. This extensive Baltimore nuRbT purnell & co 




BALTIMORE . BALTIMUhE 



O RAlLRuAD TERMINALS. 




THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



337 




BALTIMORE : ARM- 
STRONG, CATOR i CO 



business was founded in 183 1, and from that time to the present the house has enjoyed an 
uninterrupted success, always maintaining, through evil and good report, the highest stand- 
ard of mercantile integrity, which, together with a broad, comprehensive and capable 

management, have been conspicuous characteristics of the house since its 

foundation. Their travelling salesmen penetrate all the lower Atlantic and 
Ohio-Valley States, continually replenishing the stocks of thousands of the 
dry-goods stores in the various cities and villages embraced in this terri- 
tory. In their spacious seven-story iron building Hurst, Purnell & Co. 
carry one of the most complete and attractive stocks of dry goods and 
notions to be found in this country. 

Baltimore is a large importer and manufacturer of millinery, which is 
distributed thence throughout the entire South, and large areas of the 
West. The leading house is Armstrong, Cator & Co., founded in 1816 by 
Thomas Armstrong, who was joined in 1847 by Robinson W. Cator, the 
present head of the firm. The six handsome buildings occupied as sales- 
rooms stand on the site of Rochambeau's headquarters and the old Poe 
mansion. The resources of the firm are not far from $1,000,000; and 
their employees number 200, independent of those in their manufacturing 
department. The goods which this enterprising company sends throughout 
all the country, from Pennsylvania to Florida, and also to Missouri and 
Kansas and intermediate States, include not only millinery, but also large 
lines of notions and white goods. Armstrong, Cator & Co. are the peers of any millinery 
house in the United States. 

In Baltimore and vicinity is made three fifths of all the cotton-duck used in the United 
States, and here are located several well-known cotton-duck mills. The largest of these, 
and, in fact, the largest in the world, are the Mount-Vernon Company's mills, which started 
in 1848, under the presidency of William Kennedy, and the management of David Carroll, 
one of the pioneers of this industry. Cotton-duck is used for a variety of purposes — for 
threshers and reapers, for belting and hose, for sails, for mining, for tents and other army 
purposes, for mail pouches, for awnings, and other uses. At these mills it is made in 
various widths, from four to 132 inches, and of 50 different thicknesses. The Mount-Vernon 
mills employ about 1,300 people, with 50,000 spindles, and produce yearly 10,000,000 
yards of cotton-duck, con- 
suming 25,000 bales of cot- 
ton. In the early days of 
these mills, it was necessary 
only to haul out a bale of 
cotton a day, in a cart, which 
brought back the total pro- 
duct ; but now it requires 
three six-horse teams, each 
making two loads a day, and 
each time carrying very many times the capacity of the old-fashioned cart with its single trip 
a day. In 1876, the Mount-Vernon Company was awarded a medal at the Centennial Ex- 
position for the best cotton-duck. The mills are picturesque groups of buildings adjacent 
to Druid-Hill Park, and at Phoenix. For the last 13 years, Richard Cromwell has been 
the president, and under his administration the works have been materially enlarged. 

Fine Baltimore hats have long been the standard for the whole country. While American 
manufacturers had a tedious struggle in overcoming the prejudice existing in favor of foreign 
hats, a steady endeavor to win the approval of Americans for those of American make did 
at last secure a genuine success, and to-day American-made hats stand unrivalled in the 
world. Jacob Roger's factory, erected in 1805, on the site of the present Corn and Flour 




BALTIMORE ; MOUNT-VERNON COTTON-DUCK MILLS. 




BALTIMORE ; BRIQHAM, HOPKINS & CO. 



338 AVA'G'S JIAA'DBOOA' OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Exchange, was then the largest in America; and in 1S14 
Runyon Harris built another hat-factory, which passed, a 
few years later, into the hands of Aaron Clap & Co., a house 
founded in 1817. As new men entered the firm, the style 
and title changed several times, until finally the house of 
Aaron Clap &,Co. was succeeded in a direct line by Brigham 
& Hopkins, nOw Brigham, Hopkins & Co., who are recog- 
nized as leading American makers of fine straw hats. Their 
factory at the corner of German and Paca Streets is a spac- 
ious and architecturally handsome building, and the celeb- 
rity of the products of the firm gives them the foremost posi- 
tion in their line of trade. With salesrooms in New York 
and Baltimore, Brigham, Hopkins & Co. show the best pro- 
ducts, manufactured with all the traditional skill of Baltimore 
hatters, increased by the practical experience of generations. 
The Robert Poole & Son Iron Works are supplied with a full equipment of the heaviest 
and most modern tools and appliances ; and during the last decade their business has won- 
derfully increased. The company manufactures machine-moulded gearing, stationary en- 
gines and boilers, and the famous Leffel turbine 
M'ater- wheels ; together with a great variety of 
machinery for the distribution of power in cotton 
and woolen mills, grain elevators, fertilizer and 
paper factories, and flour and grist mills. Another 
celebrated product is the cable-driving machinery 
used by street cable railways in New York, Chi- 
cago, St. Paul, Kansas City, Omaha, Denvei, and 
other cities, whose highly successful plants are 
made by the Pooles. The works of the Robert 
Poole & Son Company, cover 25 acres, in the 
Woodberry suburb of Baltimore, with substantial 
buildings. Robert Poole founded the business in 1841 ; and after the lapse of a half-century 
he still remains as its president and treasurer, the concern in 1889 having been incorporated, 
with a paid-in capital of $350,000, and employing 400 experienced mechanics. 

The foremost iron and steel manufacturers in Maryland are the Pennsylvania Steel Com- 
pany, whose new works are at Sparrow's Point, nine miles from Baltimore, where the cor- 
poration has a long stretch 



of deep water frontage, suit- 
able for the discharging of 
' -^ the cargoes of 
^.^-^ iron ore from its 
ZS:^Z^^i^^%:^^^.^jf!rm»*"''wxa^ Cuban mines. 




BALTIMORE : ROBERT POOL 




Sj^^Wf^^^ Between 1887 
t-^-^s- ^ — '*- and i8qi the 



^^^^ 



[891 
company spent 
over $2, 000, 000 
on this gi eat plant. Four lilast 
furnaces are now in full opera- 
tion ; and a Bessemer plant and 
a rail-mill have also been erected and started. There is also a very complete ship-building 
plant at Sparrow's Point, and it has already done considerable work of value. The land 
owned by the Pennsylvania Steel Co. in this locality, on tide-water, is about 1,000 acres. 
The main and older works are at Steelton(Penn.), and are told of in the Pennsylvania chapter. 



PENNSYLVANIA STEEL CO. 'S WORKS AT SPARROW'S POINT. 




JOHN VINTHROP 





' ]\Tr. Presideiit: 
"I shall enter on no en- 
comium upon Massachusetts ; 
she needs none. There she is. 
Behold her, and judge for your- 
selves. There is her history ; 
the world knows it by heart. 
The past, at least, is secure. 
There is Boston, and Concord, 

and Lexington, and Bunker Hill ; and there they will remain 

forever. The bones of her sons, falling in the great struggle 

for Independence, now lie mingled with the soil of every 

State from New England to Georgia ; and there they will 

lie forever. And, sir, where American liberty raised its 

first voice, and where its youth was nurtured and sustained, 

there it still lives, in the strength of its manhood and full of 

its original spirit. If discord and disunion shall wound it, 

if party strife and blind ambition shall hawk at and tear it, 

if folly and madness, if uneasiness under salutary and neces- 
sary restraint, shall succeed in separating it from that Union 

by which alone its existence is made sure, it will stand, in 

the end, by the side of that cradle in which its infancy was 

rocked ; it will stretch forth its arm, with whatever vigor it 

may still retain, over the friends who gather round it ; and 

it will fall at last, if fall it must, amidst the proudest monu- 
ments of its own glory, and on the very spot of its origin." 

— Daniel Websteu. 

The inhabitants of Massachusetts, before the invasion 

from Europe, were several tribes of Algonquin Indians — 

the Pawtuckets, in the Merrimac and Mystic valleys ; the 

Massachusees, around Boston ; the Nausets, on Cape Cod ; 

the Wampanoags (or Pokanokets), toward Narragansett Bay ; 

and the Nipmucks, in the Nashua Valley and Worcester 

County. The Connecticut Valley contained the Squawkeag, 

Nonotuck, Waranoke, Agawam, Tunxis, and Poduuk tribes, all confederated under the 

headship of the Pocomtucks, who dwelt about Deerfield. These allied clans dominated the 

valley from Brattleborough to Hartford. The wild hill-country to the west, as far as the 



STATISTICS. 

Settled in 1G20 

First I'enn't Settlement, I'lymoutli. 
Fonnded by ... . Englishmen. 
One of tlic 13 original States. 
I'opul.ition, in 1885, . . . 1,9,12,141 

Whites, 1,922,944 

Blacks 12,999 

Americans 1,415,274 

Foreigners =,26,867 

Males, 932,884 

Females, 1,009,257 

ropulation in 1890, . . . 2,238,943 

I'olls, 567,9'9 

Vote for Harrison (1888), 183,892 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 151,855 
Real Property (1890), §1,600,137,807 
Personal Property, . . $553,996,819 
State Debt (Jan i, 1802), $27,929,416 
Sinking and Trust Funds, $34,338,866 

Counties, 14 

Cities (Pop. over 12,000), . 28 

Towns 323 

Number of Post-offices, . 863 

Railroads (miles) 2,094 

Manufactures (yearly), $631,000,000 

Colleges, 13 

Professional Schools, . . 16 

Public Schools, 7,329 

Private Schools and Academies, 511 
Pupils, of all ages, . . . 429,671 

Public Libraries 569 

\'ols. in Pub. Libraries, . 3,569,085 
Area (square miles), . . . 8,315 
F'arm Land (acres), . . 3,898,429 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 13 

Militia, 5,329 

260 Nat. Banks, Dep'ts, $167,000,000 
180 Sav'gs " " $400,000,000 

Co-operative Banks, . . . 108 

Daily Papers, 55 

Periodicals, etc., .... 655 

Tem;jerature, . . — 20° to 100° F'. 
Longitude, . 69053' to 73° 32' W. 
Latitude, . . 41° 14' to 43° 53' N. 
Mean Temperature (Boston), . 40" 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Boston, 448,477 

Worcester, 84,6^^ 

Lowell, 77,696 

F'all River, 74,398 

Cambridge, 70,028 

Lynn 55.727 

Lawrence, 44,654 

Springfield 44,179 

New Bedford, 40,733 

Someriille, 40,152 



34° 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




Hudson, lay desolate and empty, except for the few wigwams of the Ilousatonics, in the 
Stockbridge region. Each tribe contained several local clans, whose names, attached to 
> ^ hills, rivers, and lakes, are the only memorials of a vanished nation. They 
were a brave and simple race, subsisting mainly by hunting and fishing, 
with little plantations of corn and beans, and dwelling in rude wigwams, 
near the bright ponds and in the fair valleys. 

Some people suppose, on the evidence of the Icelandic Sagas, that 
this coast was visited by the Norsemen, about the time of the Crusades, 
and that Leif Ericsson, one of their Viking chiefs, suffered death at the 
hands of the natives near Boston Harbor. A noble bronze statue of this 
chieftain adorns Commonwealth Avenue, in Boston. Prof. E. N. Hors- 
ford, the author of several learned monographs about the ancient Norse 
colonies in Massachusetts, has erected a picturesque stone memorial 
tower, near the confluence of Charles River and Stony Brook, where he 
claims to have traced the remains of the ancient fortress of Norumbega. 
Before the year 1500, the Cabots may have cruised along this silent 
coast. Later came Verrazano, Cortereal and other explorers ; and 
BOSTON : NORSEMAN STATUE, j^^^^h later. Bring, Champlain, Waymouth and others. Gosnold estab- 
lished an ephemeral colony on Cuttyhunk, one of the Elizabeth Islands, in 1602 ; and in 
i6l4Capt. John Smith made a map of the coast. Through these explorations the way was 
opened for the occupation by religious enthusiasts from England. 

The settlements occurred at several points. The Pilgrim Fathers, 
a band of evangelical Separatists (Congregationalists) from the 
Church of England, after twelve years of exile in Holland, sailed 
from Delft for America, intending to found a colony near the Hud- 
son River. But their ship, the Mayjloivcr, made its landfall farther 
north, at Cape Cod; and December 21, 1620, they landed (102 in 
number) at New Plymouth (whose surrounding country is still known gE|V- 
as The Old Colony). Half of them died during the first winter. Mas- '■■ ■ *''^* 
sasoit,the Indian sovereign, treated the survivors with great kindness, 
and made a treaty of peace with them. The Massachusetts-Bay 
colony was founded at Salem by John Endicott, in 1628 ; and in 1630 boston : faneuil hall. 
Gov. John Winthrop and 1 7 shiploads of colonists came over seas, and the capital was trans- 
ferred, first to Mishawum, which was named Charlestown, and next to the Indian corn-fields 
of Shawmut (then re-named Boston). Another and much smaller colony, under Thomas 
Mayhew, secured a grant from the Earl of Sterling, of the islands of Nantucket and Martha's 
Vineyard, and held them, under the government of New York, until 1695, when they were 
ceded to Massachusetts. New colonies moved up and down the coast, 
and into the interior, founding Lynn and Marblehead, Ipswich and New- 
bury, on the shores of Essex ; the inland towns of Cambridge, Newton, 
Sudbury, Lancaster, Brookfield and Worcester ; and the Connecticut- 
Valley settlements of Deerfield, Northampton, and Springfield. A noble 
bronze statue in the latter city commemorates one of these typical pioneers 
— a sturdy, bearded Puritan, in a steeple-crowned hat, with a hoe 
in one hand, and a bell-mouthed musket in the other. In 1643, 
when Cromwell was fighting the King, in England, the colonies 
of Massachusetts, Plymouth, Connecticut and New Haven formed 
( a confederation for mutual defence against the Indians and the 

jvl' Dutch, and this incipient but formidable United States endured 
_- ,j^^^^ _^_^_^_j _ J'r* for over 40 years. Massachusetts alone had 4,000 men-at- 
jfc;vs-...._ ^^-^ ^ - arms and 400 cavalrvmen. The semi-theocratic and ecclesias- 

CHARLESTOWN : . ^ r i -r^i -n-i ■ jit. 

BUNKER-HILL MONUMENT. tical govcmmcnts of the Plymouth Pilgrims and the Boston 








-t!^--. 



THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



341 




BOSTON : OLD STATE HOUSE. 



Puritans (who in old England had belonged to the party trying to reform the Anglican 
Church from within) were modified in 1684 by the revocation of the colony charter, and in 
1 69 1 Massachusetts, Maine and Plymouth were united in one government, under the name 
of the Province of Massachusetts Bay in New England. 

The intolerance prevalent in Europe was felt here also, and Roger 
Williams, John Wheelwright and many other alleged schismatics were 
driven forth into exile, while others, so contumacious as to 
be a danger to the community, suffered death. At the 
same time, Eliot, Mayhew and divers other apostolic men 
.converted ten Indian tribes to Christianity. 

For many years parts of New Hampshire and Vermont 
were included in Massachusetts ; and Maine remained a 
part of it also, from 165 1 until 1820. Rhode Island and 
Connecticut received their first settlers from Massachusetts. 
The National Monument to the Forefathers, standing 
on a high hill near Plymouth, and visible for leagues by 
land or sea, is an imposing memorial of the Pilgrims. The 
central figure, Faith, is the largest granite statue in the 
■ world (36 feet high) ; and on pedestals below the base are 
colossal statues, representing Morality, Law, Education, and 
Freedom. Historical records and bas-reliefs further adorn this mighty monument. The 
celebrated Plymouth Rock, "the corner-stone of the Repub- 
lic," is down near the water-side, under a lofty granite 
canopy ; and many relics of the ancient colonists are sacredly 
preserved in Pilgrim Hall. A few miles distant across the 
bay, on Captain's Hill, in Duxbury, a handsome circular 
stone tower has been erected to the memory of Miles 
Standish, the military leader of the Pilgrim colony, whose 
colossal statue crowns its summit, and is visible for six 
leagues at sea. 

The Bay colonists, more wealthy, influential and ener- 
getic than those of Plymouth, were also less lenient and 
liberal. Their chief motive in self-exile lay in securing freedom to worship God in their 
own way. The sagacious English gentlemen who secured the charter, authorizing them to 
transport and govern colonists here, and to repel invaders, came themselves to Massachu- 
setts, bringing the charter with them, and formed a practically independent State. They 
banished certain people who differed with them in doctrine, such as the Antinomians and the 

Quakers. Only four years after the settlement, when Eng- 
land talked of vacating their charter, the colonial leaders 
fortified Boston harbor and put their train-bands under 
arms. But in 1684 the charter was vacated, and the self- 
governing semi-theocratic State was suspended, until after 
the deposition of Andros in 1689. Sir Edmund Andros 
was commissioned Governor of New England ; but the 
f, -'<^' train-bands of Boston in 1689 overthrew his arbitrary 
power, and imprisoned him and many of his officers, until 
they were sent to England for trial. William and Mary, 
the incoming King and Queen of England, granted the 
new Province charter ; and appointed as Governor (1692) 
Sir Wm. Phips, a native knight. Then followed the ter- 
rible witchcraft delusion, wherein 20 alleged witches were 
put to death at Salem. 




PLYMOUTH : PILGRIM HALL. 




N0RUM8EGA TOWER. 



342 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SUDBURY: LONGFELLOW'S "WAYSIDE INN. 



When the settlements began to encroach on 
their domains, the Indian tribes rose in arms, and 
there followed a long series of terrible wars, 
between 1637 (the Pequot war) and 1760 (the con- 
quest of Canada), in which scores of colonial vil- 
lages were destroyed by the natives, and many 
thousands of whites suffered death. During the 
frequent wars between France and England, offi- 
cers and soldiers of the French army aided the 
Indians in their forays on Deerfield, Haverhill, and 
other hamlets. Several naval expeditions sailed 
from Boston against the French possessions at 
the northward and eastward, capturing Port Royal (Annapolis) ; and later the proud 
fortress of Louisbourg surrendered to New-England forces, and other French settlements in 
Acadia were captured. Meantime, the Province gained mightily in population and wealth, 
and also in commercial and military power. There were 250,000 inhabitants here when the 
British Government began the aggressive acts which resulted in the Revolutionary War. 
On the soil of this State occurred the first battles of that conflict, in which the larger part 
of the army was composed of Massachusetts men, many 
of them veterans of the long campaigns against the French 
and Indians. 

A plain stone monument on Lexington Green, and a capi- 
tal bronze statue of a minute-man at Concord Bridge, com- 
memorate the battles of April 19, 1775, when 800 British 
grenadiers and light infantry were driven back into Boston, 
with a loss of 273 men. They would have been annihilated, 
but for the arrival of Lord Percy with reenforcements. 
The picturesque old Powder House, still carefully preserved 
near Somerville, was built before 1 720, and captured and 
emptied by Royal troops in 1 774. During the siege of Bos- 
ton, it became the chief magazine of the American army. salem : hawthorne's birthplace. 

Bunker-Hill Monument (in Charlestown) is a noble granite obelisk, 221 feet high, begun 
in 1825, Lafayette laying the corner-stone, and finished in 1842, Daniel Webster delivering 
the address. It commemorates the battle of June 17, 1775, when 1,500 New-Englanders 
repulsed two determined attacks from 4,000 British regulars, and gave way before the third 
assault (their powder having been expended), losing in all 450 
men to the British 1,054. During the battle CharlestoviTi was 
burned by hot shot from British batteries in Boston. 

The Washington Elm at Cambridge, the site of the ancient 
Indian councils, and of the town meetings in colonial days, 
stands near Harvard University, and is carefully preserved, 
because under its branches, July 3, 1775, Washington took 
command of the American army. Washington's headquar- 
ters in Cambridge, not far from the Elm, is a fine old colonial 
mansion, subsequently for many years the home of the poet 
Longfellow. A similar antique house, a little beyond on 
Brattle Street (formerly Tory Row), is Elmwood, the home of 
James Russell Lowell. Ball's noble equestrian statue of Wash- 
ington (made at the Ames works at Chicopee) adorns the Pub- 
lic Garden, at Boston. A marble statue of Washington, by 
Sir Francis Chantrey, is in the State House. At Newburyport 
stands J. Q. A. Ward's bronze statue of the great Virginian, 





CAM8RIDOE : 1 HE WASHINGTON 



THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



one of the best ever made. On Cambridge Com- 
mon are three large cannon, captured at Fort 
Ticonderoga, in 1775 ; brought to Cambridge 
by Gen. Knox ; and used by Washington in 
bombarding Boston. The Old State House in 
Boston is another monument of the Revolution- 
ary days, having been built in 1748, and for many 
years the seat of the Provincial and-State legis- 
latures. Outside, at the head of King (now- 
State) Street, the British main-guard fired upon 
the citizens, March 5, 1770, killing and wounding many. 
Massacre 



343 




PROVINCETOWN, CAPE COD. 




NEVLU VPon 
THE CHAIN BRIDGE AND MERRIMAC RIVER. 



This affair, called the "Boston 
is commemorated by a monument erected on Boston Common, in 1888. The 
Old South Meeting-House in Boston dates from 1729, and was the scene of Whitefield's 
preaching, the election sermons of 150 years, and the most impassioned appeals of the patriot 
leaders before the outbreak of the Revolution. During the siege, it became a riding- 
school for the penned-up British cavalry. Like the Old State House, this venerable build- 
ing is now used as an historical museum, and preserved with sacred care. 

Faneuil Hall was given to Boston by Peter Faneuil, a Huguenot merchant, in 1742, and 
rebuilt in 1768, becoming in succession a barrack for the British 14th Regiment, a forum 
for patriotic American speeches, and a theatre for besieged British officers. In later 
years, even until now, it has been the people's re- 
sort in all kinds of excitement, war-meetings, politi- 
cal rallies, receptions, and banquets. It is popu- 
larly and affectionately known as "The Cradle of 
Liberty." 

British rule in Boston ceased March 17, 1776, 
when the Royal army went away by sea, the fleet 
also conveying into exile over 1,000 people of the 
Province, mostly of the patrician "families, who re- 
mained loyal to the King. The valor of Massa- 
chusetts soldiers and the wise diplomacy of her 
statesmen contributed largely to the success of the Revolution. Of the 231,791 troops sent 
by all the American colonies into the field, 67,907 were from Massachusetts, which con- 
tributed more than double the number enrolled from any other colony. In the Continental 
Line alone she had 15 regiments. In 1780 the State adopted a Constitution, to replace its 
provisional government ; and in 17S8, by a very smallmajority, it accepted the Federal Con- 
stitution. 

In 1786, during a season of great discontent on account of crushing taxes, Daniel Shays 
headed an insurrection in the rural counties, and raised an army of 2,000 men, with which 
he broke up the courts and attacked the Springfield arsenal. This force melted away, after 
a few skirmishes with the 4,000 State troops of Gens. Lincoln and Shepard. 
The War of 181 2-1 5 with Great Britain and the 
Mexican War of 1846-47 were unpopular here, but 
the State furnished efficient quotas for both, espec- 
ially to the navy, whose bravest ship, the Constilntioii, 
came from her dockyards. Although the majority of 
her citizens for a long time had but little sympathy 
with the Anti-Slavery movement, its leaders, Garrison, 
Phillips, Sumner and others, were of this community, 
and John Brown was a native. The men and money 
and armaments which kept slavery out of Kansas 
came mainly from this State. When the late civil 





PLYMOUTH : 

MONUMENT OVER PLYMOUTH 

ROCK. 



CONCORD ; 
THE MINUTE- 
MAN STATUE. 



344 



AGING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR OF BOSTON, 
FROM TELEGRAPH HILL, AT HULL. 



War broke out, in i86l, the Massachusetts 
militia was the first to respond to the Presi- 
dent's call for troops, armed and equipped in all 
points ready for the field. In the Federal army 
159,165 men enlisted, being 15,000 in excess of 
the quota, and only 1,200 were drafted men. 
Of these, 3, 749 were killed in battle ; 9,086 died 
from wounds or disease, in the service ; and 
5,866 disappeared as "missing." 

Upwards of $50,000,000 were spent in the 
war by the State and its towns and in private con- 
tributions. The chief memorials of those brave 
but unhappy days are the 269 tattered flags 
brought home by the volunteers, and now preserved in great arches, fronted with plate glass, 
in the Doric Hall of the State House. The Army and Navy Monument stands on Boston 
Common, with allegorical statues of America, the North, the South, the East, the West, 
Peace, History, the Army and the Navy ; and scores of soldiers' monuments and memorial 
halls may be found in other cities and villages. A memorial battery on one of the hills of 
Somerville occupies the site of one of Washington's forts, and is mounted with cannon from 
the civil war. It thus commemorates two struggles for freedom. The Massachusetts 
Soldiers' Home, on the sea-viewino- bpi<Thts over Chelsea, affords a comfortable refuge for 140 

broken veterans whom the State furnished 

>. . ' for the military service of the Republic, 

J<C^'^ with daily reveille, tattoo, and taps. 

-. - ' ' The institution is maintained by popu- 

[K^i^jcS^ii^^^^^^gWTr^plSa^^^^^ lar subscriptions. 

.U^_..J*ssi«f«si»*aii!P^-_- ^^^ ^^ ^^ . lyw — For the past 25 years the State has 

been prospering greatly, while changing 
its investments in navigation into manu- 
factures and Western railroads. The 
'"-■"" vexed questions of the day, woman 

suffrage, the prohibition of liquor-sales, the new theology, civil-service reform, socialism, 
nationalizing of industries, and free-trade, have been and are being discussed and experi- 
mented upon ; and the State has taken an earnest part in healing the wounds left by the 
Secession War, and in the development of the New South and the Great West. 

The Name, Massachusetts, comes from a compound word in the language of the Indian 
aborigines, Massa, meaning "Great"; Wadchooash, " Hills "; and f/, "At, or near. " The 
word signifies "Great-Hills Place," or "At the Great Hills." The limited region to which 
it originally belonged included the meadows of the Neponset River (then inhabited by a 




BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE : 
HARVARD BRIDGE. 



tribe of Indians under the chieftainship of Chickatawbut), 
Blue Hills of Quincy, Milton and Canton, southwest of 
ible for many leagues up and down the coast. This 
the Alps or the Pyrenees, exhibits rich tur- 
quoise and sapphire tints, deepening into 
dappled purple in cloudy seasons, and as- 
suming a formidable sable hue in days of 
storm. The Bay State is a popular name 
for the Commonwealth, from the ancient 
title of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay. 

The Arms of Massachusetts show a 
blue shield, and thereon an Indian, hold- 
ing in his right hand a bow, in his left 



and the neighboring 
Boston Harbor, vis- 
range, older than 




CHESTNUT HILL : BOSTON WATER-WORKS. 



THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



345 




• J iitr^ ^^1^ 



MOUNT HOLVOKE. 



hand an arrow, point downward, all of gold ; and in the upper 
corner above his right arm a silver star with five points. The 
crest is a wreath of blue and gold, whereon is a right arm bent 
at the elbow, and clothed and ruffled, the hand grasping : 
broad-sword, all of gold. The silver seal sent by the Compan\ 
of Massachusetts Bay to Gov. Endicott, in 1629, resembled 
the still earlier Plymouth Colony seal, and bore two pine-trees 
and a leaf-clad armed Indian, with the label, "Come over and 
help us." It wa$a perpetual memorial that the colonists had 
journeyed here partly to convert the savages. This seal was 
replaced in 1684 by royalist devices, from England. Ill 1780 the present vState seal was 
prepared, reviving the Indian, and adding a star, "for one of the United States of America." 
The Motto was adopted for Massachusetts by the Provincial Congress, sitting in the 
ancient church at Watertown, behind the American lines, in August, 1775. It had been 
first Mritten in the Copenhagen-University album, in 1659, by the celebrated Algernon 
Sidney, son of Dorothy Percy and the Earl of Leicester, statesman, soldier and exile under 
Cromwell, and author of Discourses Concerning Governments. As written, it read : 

Almtits haec inimica tyrannis 

Ense petit placidani snh libcrtate quietem. 

The last line, adopted as the motto of Massachusetts, may be translated thus : "With the 
sword she seeks quiet peace under liberty." 

The Governors of the Plymouth colony 
(1620-92) were : John Carver, Wm. Bradford, Ed- 
ward Winslow, Thomas Prence, Josiah Winslow, 
and Thomas Hinckley. The Governors of Massa- 
chusetts were : John Endicott, 1629 ; John Win- 
throp, 1 630-4; Thomas Dudley, 1634; John Haynes, 
1635; Henry Vane, 1636; John Winthrop, 1637; 
Thomas Dudley, 1640; Richard Bellingham, 
1641 ; John Winthrop, 1642 ; John Endicott, 
1644; Thomas Dudley, 1645; John Winthrop, 
1646; John Endicott, 1649; Thomas Dudley, 
1650; John Endicott, 1651 ; Richard Bellingham, 1654; John Endicott, 1655; Richard 
Bellingham, 1665; John Leverett, 1672; Simon Bradstreet, 1679-86; Joseph Dudley, 
16S6; Sir Edmund Andros, 1686-9; Simon Bradstreet, 1689-92; Sir Wra. Phips, 1692; 
Wm. Stoughton (acting), 1694; the Earl of Bellomont, 1699; Wm. Stoughton (acting), 
1700; Joseph Dudley, 1702; Wm. Tailer (acting), 1715; Samuel Shute, 1716; W^m. 
Dummer (acting), 1722; Wm. Burnet, 1728; Wm. Dummer (acting), 1729; Wm. Tailer 
(acting), 1730; Jonathan Belcher, 1730; Wm. Shirley, 1741 ; Spencer Phips (acting) 
1749; Wm. Shirley, 1753; Thomas Pownal, 1757; Thomas Hutchinson (acting), 1760; 
Sir Francis Bernard, Bart., 1760; Thomas Hutchinson, 1769-74; Gen. Thomas Gage, 
1774; Provincial Congress, 1774; The Council, 1775-80. State Governors: John Han- 
cock, 1780-85; James Bowdoin, 1785-87; John Hancock, 1787-93; Samuel Adams, 1794-97; 

Increase Sumner, 1797-99; Moses Gill (acting), 1799- 
1800; Caleb Strong, 1800-7; James Sullivan, 1807-8; 
Christopher Gore, 1809-10; Elbridge Gerry, 1810-12; 
Caleb Strong, 1812-16; John Brooks, 1816-23; Wm. 
Eustis, 1823-25; Levi Lincoln, 1825-34; John Davis, 
1834-36; Edward Everett, 1836-40; Marcus Morton, 
1840-41; John Davis, 1841-43; Marcus Morton, 
piTTSFiELD ; COURT HOUSE AND ATHEN/EUM. 1843-44; Gcorge N. Briggs, 1844-51 ; George S. Bout- 




GREYLOCK, IN BERKSHIRE. 




346 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




well, 1851-53; John IL Clifford, 1853-54; Emory Washburn, 1854-55; 
Henry J. Gardner, 1855-58; Nathaniel P. Banks, 1858-61; John A. 
Andrew, 1861-66; Alex. H. Bullock, 1866-69; William Clathn, 1869-72; 
Wm. B. Washburn, 1872-74; Thos. Talbot (acting), 1874; Wm. Gas- 
ton, 1875-76; Alexander H. Rice, 1876-79; Thomas Talbot, 
1879-80; John D. Long, 1880-83; Benjamin F. Butler, 
1S83-84; Geo. D. Robinson, 1884-87; Oliver Ames, 1887-89; 
J. Q. A. Brackett, 1889-91 ; and Wm. E. Russell, 1891-93. 
@;5S..ii,'*^j -"-E-^ -^ ^ S,^ Descriptive. — Massachusetts covers tin area of 8,040 
square miles, forming a parallelogram 160 miles long from 
east to west, and 50 miles wide from north to south, except 
on the coast, where it reaches a breadth of 90 miles. The land still merits its ancient title 
of "The Place of Hills," for there is but little absolutely level ground. The coast is lined 
with highlands — Po Hill and the Oldtown Hills, about Newburyport ; Castle Hill, at Ips- 
wich ; the rugged heights of Cape Ann; the Middlesex Fells and their seaboard foot-hills; 
the Blue Hills of Milton ; the Manomet Bluffs, below Plymouth ; and many others. 
Farther inland, the country becomes mountainous, culminating in Mount Wachusett (2,018 
feet) and Mount Watatic (1,847 feet), in Worcester County. The beautiful valley of the 
Connecticut is fringed with steep trap-rock hills, the most 
conspicuous of which are Mount Tom and Mount Holyoke 
(1,120), near Northampton. Berkshire, the westernmost 
county, is covered with picturesque highlands, and has 
many rare beauties of natural scenery. On its eastern side, 
from north to south, runs the Hoosac Range 
(1,200 to 2,500 feet), a continuation of the Green 
Mountains, pierced by the famous Hoosac Tun- 
nel ; and across the narrow Housatonic Valley 
rises the higher Taconic Range, with the peaks "— -~ 
of Greylock (3,535 feet). Mount Everett and 
others. This beautiful region of mountains and lakes, 
and pastoral valleys is frequented in summer by New- 
York and Boston families, who have country-houses at 
Lenox, Stockbridge, and Pittsfield. "Somebody has called Berkshire the Piedmont of 
America. I do not know how just the appellation may be, but I do know that if Piedmont 
can rightly be called the Berkshire of Europe, it must be a very delightful region." 

The Merrimac crosses the northeastern corner of Massachusetts for 35 miles, rising in 
the White Mountains, and entering the sea at venerable Newburyport. It has some com- 
merce, being navigable for small vessels as far up as Haverhill (18 miles); but its chief value 
is in a series of enormous and fully improved water-powers, at Lowell, Lawrence, and Haver- 
hill. The Connecticut River, rising near the Canadian frontier, and crossing Massachusetts 
for 50 miles, is also valuable mainly for its water-powers, de- 
veloped by dams at Plolyoke, Turner's Falls, and other points. The 
minor streams, the Charles, Taunton, Nashua, Concord, Black- 
stone, Deerfield, and Housatonic are useful in the same way, and 
also afford interest to artists, local poets and rustic fishermen. 
There are scores of smaller streams, of value for their water- 
power, most of which is utilized by factories. 

The largest unbroken wilderness in Massachusetts lies 

in the Old Colony, near the scene of the first settlements, 

between Plymouth and Cape Cod ; and so completely has 

this tract remained in the kindly care of nature, that it now 

WORCESTER : 90^-0^^"^' harbors thousands of deer, guarded by the State game- 




WINCHESTER : TOWN HALL. 




SJi'r, . 



THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



347 




^'— ^ftl 









FALL RIVER ; POST-OFFlCE. 



laws. Farther around towards Buzzards Bay are large 
cedar swamps, amid which gleam several bright lakes and 
ponds. Along the southeastern coast extend thousands 
of acres of cranberry bogs, where these pleasant fruits are 
cultivated more extensively than anywhere else in Amer- 
ica. Other localities on the coast, especially the long 
Holland-like meadows of Essex, wdth the blue sea peep- 
ing over their verge, produce great quantities of salt hay. 
The most prominent natural feature is Cape Cod, a 
sandy peninsula several miles broad and 65 miles long, pro- 
jecting east, then running north, and then for a short dis- 
tance west, like "a bare and bended right arm," sheltering Cape-Cod Bay, and with Cape 
Ann (the left arm, on guard) forming Massachusetts Bay. The cape has twelve towns, famous 
for gallant seamen. The harbors of Chatham, Hyannis, Cotuit, and Wood's Holl are on 
the outside, those of Barnstable, Wellfleet, and Provincetown on the inside. Provincetown, 
near the great revolving light on Race Point, the tip end of Cape Cod, is a quaint old 
port and town of 4,642 inhabitants, 120 miles from Boston by rail, and 55 miles by water. 
Martha's Vineyard is an island of 120 square miles (21 by six miles) off the southern 
point of the State (at Wood's Holl), with 4,369 inhabitants, forming six 
townships, and (with the adjacent town of Gosnold, covering 13 
islands) making up the county of Dukes. At one end of the island 
rise the sandy hills of Chappaquiddick, and at the other end 
the surf pounds and tears against the tremendous cliffs of Gay 
Head, with their folded and vividly colored strata of white and 
•; • yellow, red and green, brown and black. Gay-Head town and 

the township of Mashpee, on the south side of Cape Cod, are re- 
served for a few hundred Indians, the descendants of the Cape- 
Cod and island tribes, with an admixture of Portuguese 
and African blood. The coast Indians were always loyal 
to the colonists, and fought bravely alongside their white 
neighbors against hostile natives, and afterwards against 
the redcoats of England. Their descendants live a 
strange, unsettled life and excel mainly in the whale- 
fisheries. In the old days, Edgartown, the capital of the 
Vineyard, was celebrated for its successful whaling fleets 
and daring seamen, but these have passed away, and for 40 years the island has been falling 
off in population. It enjoys considerable fame as a summer-resort, together with Nantucket, 
another lonely island, farther out to sea, and reached by daily steamers from Wood's Holl 
and Martha's Vineyard. Nantucket covers 60 square miles, and has 3,265 inhabitants, being 
fewer than at the time of the first Provincial census, in 1765, and only a third of the popula- 
tion in the palmy days of 1840, when Nantucket ships were seen in all ports. 

The Geology of the Bay State is concerned mainly with 
metamorphic rock, and the glacial drift of Cape Cod and Ply- 
mouth County, in sands, gravel, and bowlders ; the conglom- 
erates and slates around Boston ; the new red sandstone of 
thetriassic period, in the Connecticut Valley, imprinted with 
the huge footprints of pre-historic animals ; and the meta- 
morphosed rocks of the Berkshire Hills. There are large 
granite quarries on Cape Ann and in the Blue Hills, near 
Boston. At Longmeadow, in the Connecticut Valley, great 
quantities of red sandstone are quarried. The white-marble 
quarries of Lee have been worked for many years, and 




FALL RIVER : CITY HALL. 




BOSTON ; CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 



348 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




GLOUCESTER 



CAPE-ANN GRANITE CO. 



furnished material for the United-States Capitol at 
Washington. Among other mineral products are 
the silver-bearing lead of Newburyport, whose 
mines are no longer worked ; the emery of the west- 
ern counties; and the hematite iron ores of Berk- 
shire. The sand used for making fine cut-glass 
ware in Pennsylvania comes from Cheshire, in 
Berkshire County. A very hard and graphitic coal 
is found in the southeastern counties, but it cannot 
be operated profitably. 

The granite-producing industry is dominated by 
the Cape- Ann Granite Company, founded in 1869, by Col. Jonas H. French, still its president. 
Its office is in Boston ; and the works are at Gloucester, near its great quarries at Bay View, 
where the company owns 300 acres, and keeps from 400 to 700 men at work. These quarries 
were opened in 1849, and layidle from 1865 to 1869, when they were purchased by the present 
company. The granite is carried on a steam railway over a mile to the wharves, where it is 
shipped for distant ports. Many millions of paving blocks have been sent hence to every 
great American city, and hundreds of monuments, besides vast numbers of engine-beds for 
the Michigan copper-mines, and gun-platforms for forts. Among the large structures 

built from this quarry are the Boston and Baltimore 
Post-offices, the new Suffolk-County Court House at 
Boston, the Danvers Asylum, the East-River Bridge 
piers, the Charles-River-Aqueduct Bridge, the won- 
derful ' ' hanging-stairways " in the Philadelphia Public 
Building, and many notable Government edifices. 

The Climate ranges from 20° below zero to 100° 
above (Fahrenheit), with frequent sharp transitions, 
long winters, arduous springs, lovely summers and 
pleasant autumns. The finest season in the year is 
the Indian summer, coming after the late September 
frosts, when for two or three weeks gentle southwest 
winds prevail, with a wonderfully transparent atmosphere, skies of the purest azure, and 
brilliant cloud-effects. The winter comes down upon the land in December, and lasts into 
March, with abundant snow and ice, especially in the interior counties. The mean average 
temperature is 49°, at Boston, and the annual rainfall is 42 inches. The weather of eastern 
Massachusetts is foretold with surprising accuracy by the scientific observers who occupy 
the observatory on Blue Hill, endowed by the generosity of the Rotch family, of Milton. 

Agriculture employs 80,000 persons, on 45,000 farms, of which 41,000 are owned by 
their occupants. The domestic animals, valued at $17,000,000, include 272,000 head of 
cattle, 66,000 horses, 75,000 sheep and lambs, 135,000 swine, 15,000 dogs, 7,500 swarms of 
bees, and 1,820,000 domestic fowls. The valuation of the farms is $216,000,000, being 
$111,000,000 for the land (939,000 cultivated acres, 
at $60,000,000; 1,570,000 uncultivated, at $25,- 
000,000; 1,390,000 woodland, at $26,000,000); 
$74,000,000 for buildings (46,100 dwellings, at 
$1,010 each; and 50,275 barns, at $409); $17,- 
000,000 for animals ; $7,000,000 for machinery ; 
and $7,000,000 for fruit-trees and vines. The 
annual product of the farms is $48,000,000, includ- 
ing $13,000,000 in dairy articles; $11,000,000 in 
hay, straw, and fodder ; and $5,000,000 in vegeta- 
bles. Among the articles are 257,000 pounds of Gloucester ; cape-ann granite quarries. 




GLOUCESTER : CAPE-ANN GRANITE CO. 




THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



349 



4,200,000 



wool, 9,700,000 pounds of butter, 360,000 pounds of cheese, 73,000,000 gallons of milk, 
50,000 gallons of maple syrup, 800,000 pounds of maple-sugar, 5,000,000 gallons of cider, 

pounds of tobacco, 4,500,000 bushels of apples, and 

strawberries. The lowlands of Cape 

towns, Plymouth, Middleboro, Carver and 

yearly 300,000 bushels of cranberries. 

since 1883, and new bogs 

season. 

tile, except in a few locali- 
long been carefully fostered 
ties, and produces valuable 
labor. In the western coun- 
gration and the drift toward 
the hill-towns that ex- 



7,000,000 dozen ( 
4,000,000 quarts 
Cod and the adjoining 
Rochester, produce 
This crop has trebled 
are prepared every 
The soil is not fer- 
ties,but agriculture has 
by the State and by local socic- 
returns, as a reward for very hard 
ties, especially, the drain of emi- 
the cities have so far depopulated 
tensive areas of abandoned farm- 
claimed by the forests. Mean- 
raise enough provisions for her 
value of farm-products rose 
$47,000,000 in 1885, the gain being 
dens and dairies. This is the least 
Union, only 9 per cent, of its workers 
The first State Commissioner of Agri- 




SFhl .'.■■'.■■ 
UNITED-STATES ARMORY. 



lands are being re- 
while, the State fails to 
own consumption. The 
$32,000,000 in 1865 to 
chiefly in market-gar- 
agricultural State in the 
being on the farms, 
culture was appointed 
culture began its work 



in 1836, and the State Board of Agri- 
in 1852. It has 44 members, and has published over 400,000 copies of its 38 yearly reports. 
The Massachusetts Agricultural College, at Amherst, called the best in America, has an 
experimental farm of 383 acres, on a rich plain, girt around with mountains. The Bussey In- 
stitution, near Boston, is a school of agriculture and horticulture attached to Harvard 
University, with a handsome Victoria Gothic building, and rich endowments. Connected 
therewith is the Arnold Arboretum, containing all manner of trees and shrubs that can live 
outdoors here, and endowed with $100,000. 137 acres of the 360 belonging to the institu- 
tion are included in the Arboretum ; and also form part of the Boston park system. 

Parks and Pleasure-Grounds have been provided for the people in [great variety. 
The oldest of these is the famous Boston Common, with 48 acres of velvety lawns and 
venerable trees, set apart for public uses in 1634. Here witches, Quakers, and murderers 
were executed, and scores of hostile Indians bravely suffered the death-penalty. At a later 
period, its hills were covered with the camps and forts of the British garrison ; and in 1812 
the American troops assembled for the defence of the town encamped here. In 1861-5 
scores of thousands of volunteers were reviewed on the parade ground, before their depar- 
ture Southward. Adjoining the Common, on the west, is the Public Garden, 
with its statuary, and glorious displays of tulips, pansies, rhododendrons, and 
other flowers. Franklin Park covers 500 acres of 
picturesque hill-country southwest of Boston, and is 
visited every pleasant summer-day by scores of 
thousands of people. The Marine Park, at South 
Boston, has a long promenade-pier projecting into 
the harbor, near Fort Independence. The Free 
Public Forest at Lynn covers 1,400 acres of Trosach- 
like hills and lakes, around the famous Dungeon 
Rock, and with pleasant boulevards and parkways. The parks at Springfield, Worcester, 
New Bedford, Cambridge, and other cities, the Mall at Newburyport, and the commons of 
the rural villages, afford pleasant recreation-grounds. Five miles north of Boston are the 
picturesque Middlesex Fells, a region of rocky hills and gorges, covering six square miles, 




BOSTON : ARMORY FIRST CORPS OF CADETS. 



35° 



A'JXG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SHERBORN : REFORMATORY PRISON 



FOR WOMEN. 



with ponds and cascades, and peaks over- 
looking the sea, on one side, and on the 
other, Monadnock and Wachusett and 
many far-away blue mountains. The sub- 
urbs of Boston are famed for their beauty. 
It is an undulating region, finely wooded, 
and brightened here and there by crystal 
ponds and arms of the sea. Everywhere 
there are pleasant country-seats, and here and there the ancient villages nestle under im- 
memorial elms, with venerable mansions of the Georgian era, and historic churches of the 
Puritan days. Admirable roads traverse these environs ; and the railways, diverging from 
Boston like spokes from a hub, afford facilities for an immense suburban population. 

The State Government is composed of a governor, lieutenant-governor, secretary, 
treasurer and receiver-general, auditor, eight councillors, and a legislature of 40 senators and 
240 representatives. The Legislature is still frequently called ' ' The Great and General Court. " 
The State House, which Dr. Holmes calls "the hub of the solar system," stands on the 
crest of Beacon Hill, fronting Boston Common, and is a dignified structure, dating from 1795, 
with interesting statues of Daniel Webster, Horace Mann, John A. Andrew, and Washing- 
ton, the battle-flags of 1861-65, ^^^ ^^ State library. For over a century a large wooden cod- 
fish has been suspended in the Hall of Representatives, typifying an industry of much value to 
Massachusetts, and "a greater source of wealth than all the mines of California." The Sen- 
ate chamber contains valuable portraits of State dignitaries, and also battle-relics from Lex- 
ington, Bunker Hill and Ben- 
nington. The lofty dome is 
covered with pure gold leaf, and 
shines afar over scores of leagues 
of sea and land. An extension 
larger than the original build- . 
ing, and harmonious in architec- 
ture, was added to the State 
House in 1888-92. 

For two centuries Massachu- 
setts had the most complete democratic government ever seen, each town forming a semi- 
independent republic, whose qualified voters (male church-members, until the restoration of 
the Stuarts, and after that the entire adult male population) assembled in town-meeting, 
levied local taxes, appropriated moneys, elected officers, and chose representatives. 

The Massachusetts Volunteer Militia includes 406 officers and 4,923 enlisted men, organ- 
ized in two brigades, composed of 6 regiments (67 companies) of infantry, 2 battalions (6 
companies) of cadets, 2 battalions of cavalry, and 2 batteries of field artillery (12 guns and 
16 Gatlings). The First Infantry is from Boston ; the Second from western Massachusetts; 

the Fifth and Sixth from Middlesex County and 
Boston ; the Eighth from Essex County ; and 
the Ninth from Boston. The Naval Battalion, of 
four companies, includes many yachtsmen, and 
is in a highly efficient condition. Each brigade 
encamps for a week every year, on the fortified 
State camp-grounds at Framingham ; and the 
Cadets encamp at Hingham and Magnolia, on 
the coast. This entire body of troops is kept in 
a state of high discipline and efficiency. It costs 
the State nearly !fi20o,ooo a year. The Ancient 
SOUTH BOSTON : PERKINS SCHOOL FOR THE BLIND. ^nd Honorable Artillery Company, the oldest 








BOSTON : CITY HOSPITAL. 







THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



351 



military organization in America, has its headquarters in Faneuil Hall, Boston, and is largely 
composed of officers of other commands. It was organized in 1638, and for more than a century 



m e m b e r s h i p 
been built at 
the public cost. 



was the chief school of military art for New England. The 
numbers over 600. Expensive and elaborate armories have 
Boston and Worcester for the accommodation of the militia, at 

Charities and Corrections. — The State 
Board of Lunacy and Charity has nine mem- 
bers, with Superintendents of Out-Door Poor 
and In-Door Poor, an Inspector of Institu- 
tions, and other officials. Upwards of 16,000 
persons are in receipt of public charity. The 
establishments for the relief of the poor are 
valued at $9,000,000, one third of which per- 
tains to city and town almshouses, and the rest 
to eleven State institutions. There are 6,500 
insane persons, 4,000 of whom are cared for 
in the State Lunatic Hospitals, at Worcester, 
Danvers, Taunton, Northampton and Westborough, and at other State institutions and 
public hospitals. In the last decade the population of Massachusetts gained 26 per cent., 
but its insane population gained 50 per cent. The palace asylums at Danvers and Worces- 
"ter are among the finest buildings in America. They represent an already obsolete system, 
to be replaced by cottage hospitals. The Danvers A ~ylum includes ten enormous Eliza- 




BOSTON : THE POST-OFPICE. 



bethan struc- 
tops of Essex, 




BOSTON ; SUFFOLK-COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 



tures, built at a cost of $1,600,000, crowning one of the finest hili- 
overlooking vast areas, from the ocean to Monadnock and Wachi 
sett, and surrounded with exquisite Italian gai 
dens. There are 150 insane persons boarded oir 
in families, in a new experiment, based on the 
Scottish system. A new asylum for the 
chronic insane is being built at Medfield. 
Not more than one eighth of the State's 
jiatients have a reasonable hope of recov- 
ery. The only Epileptic Hospital in 
America is at Baldwinsville. It was 
founded in 1882, by private munificence ; 
but the State appropriated $55,000 to it in 1889, for new buildings, and received the right 
to send patients. Children rendered by disease profane, selfish and imbecile are here made 
quiet, thoughtful and conscientious. 

The State Primary School, at Monson ; the Lyman (Reform) School for Boys, at West- 
borough ; the State Industrial School for Girls, at Lancaster ; and various private charitable 
institutions at West' Newton, Salem, Thompson's Island, and elsewhere, provide for and 
educate 1,400 poor, friendless, and ignorant " Children of the State," and teach them ways to 
earn an honest and useful living. The cost exceeds $250,000 a year. The State Farm at 
Bridgewater is a model institution, with hospital, prison, insane asylum and other adjuncts. 
It has an average of 600 inmates. The State Almshouse at Tewksbury takes care of 
1,000 persons. In the charitable and reformatory institutions 70 per cent, of the people 
are of foreign birth, and 90 per cent, of the children in the reformatories are of foreign 
parentage. The local authorities say 
that these startling figures are based on 
the well-known fact that the mass of 
immigrants are of the class but one de- ^ 

gree above actual want. The Superin- ''^;rT~^T^'^*^^^*^^^^.j:,-..---r-" -ZlJ^I 
tendent of In-door Poor sends out of ' " bostoT harbor TT^tTdependence. 




352 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




GLOUCESTER HARBOR. 



the State each year 600 persons, belonging elsewhere, 
and becoming charges on the charity of Massachusetts. 
The State Prison at Charlestown (Boston) contains 
above 600 chronic criminals. The Reformatory for 
men, at Concord (750 inmates), and the Reformatory 
Prison for Women, at Sherb6rn (250 inmates), arc- 
doing a noble work in reclaiming immature and un- 
hardened offenders. There are also 21 county and 
many municipal prisons and correctional institutions, 
capable of holding 4, 500 prisoners. Contract labor in 
the prisons was abolished in 1S87, and all work done 
by convicts is for the benefit of the State. While the 
population of Massachusetts has increased about 82 
per cent, during 30 years, its prison population has increased but 75 per cent., notwith- 
standing in recent years a more effective enforcement of law has relatively increased the 
number of sentences. The records show a marked decrease of crimes against person and 
property, and an increase in crimes directly connected with intemperance. 

Health and Mortality. — The State Board of Health (founded in 1842) has seven 
members. There are about 24,000 deaths in Massachusetts yearly, one fourth of which are 
from consumption and acute lung diseases. One third of the deaths are of children under 

five. July and August are the most fatal months. 
The changes in temperature are apt to be sudden and 
severe, and the east winds of the coast are as danger- 
ous in winter as they are agreeable in summer. 

United-States Institutions. — The chief Na- 
tional building in Massachusetts is the Post-Office at 
lioston, a large granite structure, containing the 
United-States Sub-Treasury and the court-rooms. It 
cost $6,000,000, and is adorned with groups of col- 
ossal statuary. The Custom House at Boston is a 
massive and imposing structure, built in 1837-49, at a 
cost of $1,100,000, with walls, roof, and dome of 
stone. It is in the form of a Greek cross, surrounded 
by 32 immense fluted columns. The customs build- 
ings at Salem, Newburyport and other coast cities are also of stone. The United-States 
Armory at Springfield occupies a park of 72 acres, on Armory Hill, and has a great quad- 
rangle of buildings. During the years, 1861-65, the works ran night and day, with 3,000 
operatives, making 800,000 stand of arms, at a cost of $12,000,000. In the adjacent arsenal 
500,000 stand of arms can be stored, and vast quantities are always kept in readiness. The 
United-States Arsenal at Watertown, near Boston, was founded in 181 1, and became a gar- 




MANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA : COOLIDGE MEMORIAL 
LIBRARY AND GRAND-ARMY HALL. 



risoned post in 
made here, and 
plant here for 
machinery has 




CAMBRIDGE . CITY LIBRARY, 



1816. Most of the ordnance stores used in the Mexican War were 
also vast quantities for the Secession War. There is an extensive 
making cannon and gun carriages, but since 1888 much of the 
been removed to other arsenals. The grounds cover 1 00 acres, 
and besides the factories, include barracks and officers' quarters. 
1 The Navy Yard at Charlestown (Boston) covers over 100 acres, 
with its work-shops, barracks, store-houses, ship- 
houses, and rope-walk. The great hammered- 
granite dry-dock cost $700,000. The Frolic, Inde- 
pendence, Merriinac, Ctiniherland, Hjiron, Talla- 
poosa, Vermont, Boxer, Hartford, Shawnee, and 
many other famous battle-ships were built here ; 







THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



353 



and the Constitutiott and Argus came from neighboring yards. The Navy Yard dates from 
1798; and when need arises it employs 2,000 men. There is a garrison of marines, a salut- 
ing battery, and a receiving ship (the Wabasli) in the stream. 

The Fortifications of the coast include the crumbling and long-abandoned defences 
of Newburyport, Salem, Marblchead, Plymouth and New Bedford. The port of Boston 







CAMBRIDGE AND BOSTON : HARVARD UNIVERSITY. 



is protected by a group of fine old fortresses, carrying 600 guns, and built on islands. Fort 
Independence, on the site of the Castle of colonial days, is the oldest virgin fortress in the 
world, having been first armed as a defence in 1634. Across the harbor rise the ponderous 
earthworks and lofty granite citadel of Fort Winthrop. Farther out, toward the sea, is 
Fort Warren, sometime famous as a prison for Confederate officers. 



354 



KIN-Q'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




AMHERST: AMHERST COLLEGE. 



The Massachusetts coast is dotted with light- 
houses, fog-horns, and life-saving stations, from the 
Plum-Island lights at Newburyport around the two 
capes, and on the southern islands. Conspicuous 
among these are the Sankoty-Head light, at Nan- 
tucket ; the Highland Light, on the outer side of 
Cape Cod ; the Minot's- Ledge Light, rising from 
the sea, off Boston Harbor ; and the lofty twin 
towers of the Thatcher's-Island Lights, on Cape 
Ann. Boston Light dates from 1715, and was destroyed by the British fleet in 1775. 

The chief station of the United-States Commission of Fish and Fisheries is at Wood's 
Holl, on the south coast, where there are extensive biological laboratories, fish-hatcheries 
and aquaria ; and many eminent scientific men spend long seasons here, studying the habits 
of cod and mackerel, lobsters and oysters, and other dwellers in the sea. 

Educational. — The public-school system is based on the ordinance of 1647: "Now, 
that learning may not be buried in the graves of our fathers, every township in this jurisdic- 
tion, after the Lord hath increased them to 50 householders, shall then forthwith appoint 
one within their town to teach all such children as shall resort to him, to write and read." 
These village-schools and the grammar-schools ordained for towns of 100 families were sup- 
ported by taxation. And so, with frequent improvements, the public-school system has ad- 
vanced mightily. Of late years, women have had (and used) the right to serve on and vote 
for school committees. The boys of many high-schools are subjected to military drill, 
under arms; and the Boston School Regiment, 1,200 strong, marching like regulars, is re- 
viewed every year on Boston Common, by the Governor ; and the Second School Regiment, 
800 strong, has yearly field-days in Essex or Middlesex. Within a recent period the Catholic 
Church has founded many parochial schools for her children. A large proportion of the 
122,000 illiterates of above ten years are Irish domestics. One third of the foreigners are 
illiterate, and so are one fourteenth of the natives. 

The State Board of Education is charged to see that each child has a good common- 
school education, with training also in morals and manners. There are five normal schools, 
at Bridgewater (founded in 1840), Framingham (founded in 1839), Salem (1854), Westfield 
(1839), and Worcester (1874), and a normal art-school at Boston (1873), the total number of 
pupils being 1,350. The State contains 7,329 public schools, with 10,000 teachers, and a 

total attendance of 376,000 pupils. Since 
1884 the cities and towns are obliged by law 
to provide all text-books and other school- 
supplies free of charge. The State also sup- 
ports schools for the blind, for deaf-mutes, 
foi the feeble-minded, and for juvenile of- 
fenders and truants, containing 1,500 chil- 
dien. There are 244 high-schools, with 814 
teachers, and 26,000 pupils ; and 270 even- 
mg schools, with 100 teachers and 30,000 pupils 
(mostlj adults). The annual expenditure for the 
public schools is in excess of $8,500,000. There 
aie also 511 academies and private schools, with 
60,000 pupils. 

Har\ard University is one of the foremost in- 
stitutions of learning in the world, and has been 
foi two and a half centuries a growing and bene- 
icent power in American life. Its foundation 
WILLIAM8T0WN ; WILLIAMS COLLEGE. was Ordered by the Massachusetts legislature in 




THE STATE OE MASSACHUSETTS. 



355 




BOSTON : 
MASSACHUSETTS INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY. 



1636; and the next year Newtowne, across the Charles 
River from Boston, was chosen as its seat. In 1638 
John Harvard, a young English pastor, died at Charles- 
town and bequeathed his library and ;^8oo in money to l;,^'-"* 
the inchoate college, to which his name was then given, 
the name of Newtowne also being changed to Cam- 
bridge, in honor of the famous English university where 
many of the founders of New England had received 
their education. The little Puritan seminary of those 
ancient days has developed finally into the most illustrious university in America, with a 
roll of 14,000 graduates, including Otis and the Adamses, Hancock and Warren, Channing 
and Everett, Sparks and Palfrey, Cushing and Bancroft, Emerson and Holmes, Motley and 
Lowell, Sumner and Dana, Thoreau, Clarke and Hale, and many other eminent men. The 
university was established outside of the activities of the metropolis, but could be placed at 
no more distant point by reason of the hostile Indians. In 1775 the students, library and 
apparatus were sent away, and the buildings long remained barracks for the Continental 
troops, l^esieging the British army in Boston. Harvard has a number of dormitories and 
other buildings, some of them very old, like Massachusetts, Harvard, HoUis, Stoughton 
and University Halls, having a puritanical simplicity ; and it has also many others with all 
the bravery of 19th-century architecture. The lovely quadrangle encloses green lawns 

and ancient trees, and rests in a perpetual air of philo- 
sophic calm. Gore Hall and its branches contain 377,000 
volumes, and many rare old books and relics ; and the 
Museum of Comparative Zoology, the Peabody Museum 
of American Archceology and Ethnology, and other 
appropriate halls contain unrivalled collections. Me- 
morial Hall was finished in 1874, at a cost of $450,000, 
with a classic theatre ; a grand memorial transept, 
bearing on arcaded marble tablets the names of 136 
Harvard men who died in the war for the Union ; and a 
great hall, generally utilized by 700 students as a din- 
ing-room. This hall has an open timber roof, rich stained windows of great size, and 
scores of portraits and busts of benefactors of the university ; and a lofty tower, visible for 
many leagues. The Observatory, the Botanic Gardens, the Hemenway Gymnasium, the 
Divinity Hall, Austin Hall (the Law School), the Boylston Chemical Laboratory, and the 
Jefferson Physical I^aboratory (founded mainly by Thomas Jefferson Coolidge), are well- 
known departments near the quadrangle. The famous Harvard Medical School, the Dental 
School, and the Veterinary School are in Boston ; and the Bussey Institution, a school of 
agriculture, and the Arnold Arboretum are in West Roxbury. The university has 2,700 
students, in all its departments; and its properties exceed $10,000,000 in value. 
The Harvard Annex, founded in 1879, for the collegiate education of 
women, has no legal connec- 
tion with the university, but its 
40 professors are mainly those 
pertaining to the college. It has 
130 students. The graduates 
receive certificates that they 
"have pursued a course of 
study equivalent in amount and 
quality to that for which the 
degree of Bachelor of Arts is 
conferred in Harvard College." 




ANDOVER : THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY. 




CAMBRIDGE : PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL THEOLOGICAL SCHOOL. 



356 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




Boston University was founded in 1869, and has 1,100 students in its colleges of liberal 
arts, music, and agriculture, and schools of law, theology (Methodist), medicine (homoeo- 
pathic) and all sciences. Unlike most American colleges, Boston University has no dormi- 
tories, and its buildings are used only for lectures, recitations and administra- 
tion. Clark University was founded at Worcester, in 
1888, for higher specialized study by college and 
university graduates, and has won a considerable 
success. Amherst College occupies a beautiful situa- 
tion on a hill south of Amherst, in the romantic hill- 
country near the Connecticut Valley. It was founded 
in 1 82 1, and is a Congregationalist institution. There 
are 27 instructors and 360 students, 140 of whom are 
from other States, with an art gallery, a libi^ary of 
52,000 volumes, memorial chapel, gymnasium, observatory, and rare museums of Indian 
relics, Nineveh antiquities, minerals, and tracks in stone. Amherst has the finest American 
collection (with one exception) of casts from famous statuary. Connected with her profes- 
sorship of physical education (the first in America) is a park of 26 acres, with ball and 
tennis grounds and walking tracks. 

Williams College, at W^illiamstown, amid the noble mountains of Berkshire, commemo- 
rates Col. Ephraim W^illiams, of the Eighth Massachusetts, who was killed in battle at Lake 
George, in 1755, after bequeathing his estate for a college, which was chartered in 

1793. It has 20 instructors and 320 students, with interesting build- ^ ings. This 

was the birth-place of Christian foreign missions in America. Tufts J College, in 

Medford, covers a far-viewing hill with its group of buildings, rich- M ly endowed, 

and with classical, philosophical, engineering, and divinity courses. It £J^ was opened 
in 1854, and is Universalist in tone. There are 18 instructors and 
150 students. The Massa- ^-_ ., _ 

chusetts Institute of Tech- 
nology, in Boston, incor- 
porated in 1861, occupies 
several fine buildings on the 
Back Bay, with museums, 
models, and gymnasium. It 
has 1 20 instructors and 1,000 
students (including 26 wo- 
men and 38 foreigners), and 
teaches engineering, architecture, chem.istry, physics, natural history and mechanic arts, in 
a four-years' course. Massachusetts owns 20 free scholarships, for aid rendered from public 
funds. There is no more famous' scientific school in America, and it draws its students 
from 35 States. The Massachusetts Agricultural College, at Amherst, is a State institution, 
founded in 1863, with 150 students in scientific farming, horticulture, forestry, and similar 
branches. There are 80 free State scholarships and 13 free Congressional scholarships. 

Wellesley College, 15 miles from Boston, 
on Lake Waban, in W^ellesley, has stately 
buildings in a park of 300 acres. It was 
founded in 1870, by Henry F. Durant, and 
opened in 1875 5 '^"'^ ^^.s 60 officers and 690 
students (young women averaging 20 years) 
from all over the Union. The museums 
and art-gallery are of great value ; and the 
library contains 25,000 volumes. The prop- 
wellesley: wellesley college. erty of Wellesley isworth $2,000,000. Smith 




BOSTON : ENGLISH HIGH AND LATIN SCHOOL. 





THE STATE OE MASSACHUSETTS. 357 

College was founded in 1871, by Miss Sophia 
Smith, at Northampton, and has fine buildings 
and 500 women students. The 1 2-foot equatorial 
telescope, the four-inch meridian circle, and the 
21 -foot steel dome were designed and built by 
Warner & Swasey, of Cleveland (Ohio). Across 
the valley, at South Hadley, is the famous old 

,, ^ TT 1 1 C ■ „J r'„ll (r^.,,^A^A WELLESLEY-COLLEGE : SCHOOL OF ART. 

Mount- Holyoke Semmary and College, tounded 

in 1836, by Mary Lyon, and the school of many noble women. It commands exquisite views 

of the Northampton meadows and the gorge between Mount Holyoke and Mount Tom. 

Andover Theological Institution, opened in 1808, has prepared 3,000 men for the Con- 
gregational ministry, and has nine professors and 50 students, 37 of whom are from outside 
of Massachusetts, with several from Japan, Turkey and India. Its recent liberal tendencies 
are well-known. On its elm-shaded hill stand the old dormitories ; the stone Brechin Hall, 
with the library of 50,000 volumes ; the handsome modern chapel ; the house in which Gates 
Ajar was written ; and the site of the old stone house where Uncle Tent's Cabin was written. 
Newton Theological Institution is a Baptist institution, founded in 1825, and nobly placed 
on a high hill over Newton Centre, a pleasant village eight miles from Boston, and now for 
many years the home of the Rev. Dr. S. F. Smith, author of the National song, My Country, 
"'tis of Thee. The Episcopal Theological School is near Harvard University, at Cambridge, 
and includes a beautiful quadrangle of stone buildings, with a library and an unusually 
attractive church. The school dates from 1867, and has five professors. The chief Catholic 
schools are Boston College, founded by the Jesuits in 1863, and now having 16 instructors 
and 200 students, and the College of the Holy Cross, on a pleasant hill-top near Worcester. 
The diocesan seminary for the Catholic clergy occupies a great stone building in Brighton. 
The New-Church (Swedenborgian) Theological School is at Cambridge. The Divinity 
School at Harvard University is Unitarian in tendency. The law-schools are connected 
with Harvard (founded in 1817), and Boston University (1869). The Medical Schools of 
Harvard and of Boston University, the Harvard and Boston Dental Colleges, the College 
of Pharmacy, and the Harvard School of Veterinary Medicine, are at Boston. The Perkins 
Institution and Massachusetts School for the Blind, at South Boston, was organized in 1832, 
by Dr. S. G. Howe. It has been studied as a model for similar institutions here and in Europe. 
There is a large library of raised-letter books. The State grants $36,000 a year to the 
school, which has 225 students. The pupils earn money by piano-tuning and upholstery. 

The celebrated evangelist, Dwight L. Moody, was a native of Massachusetts ; and at 
and near beautiful old Northfield, in the Connecticut Valley, he has founded a group of 
Christian schools, with 500 pupils, from every State, and Japan and Armenia. Here also 
is a training-school for women, in Bible-study, dress-making, and house-keeping. 

The Boston English-High and Latin-School, the largest building in the world used as a 
free public school, was built in 1877-80, at a cost of $750,000, and is a fire-proof structure, 
in Renaissance architecture, with 48 school-rooms, besides museums, libraries, gymnasiums, 
lecture-halls, and the great drill-hall, for military evolutions and instruction. The Girls' 
High School is a noble building, with 800 pupils. The B. M. C. Durfee High School is a 
magnificent memorial building on the heights over the city of Fall River. The high schools 
at Worcester, Springfield and other cities have attractive buildings and collections. 

Among the preparatory schools are Phillips Academy, at Andover, endowed in 1778, and 
widely renowned ; Dummer Academy, in Newbury, founded and endowed by Gov. Dum- 
mer, in 1756; Adams Academy, at Quincy'; the Highland Military Academy, near W^orces- 
ter ; Thayer Academy, at Braintree ; Dean Academy, at Franklin ; Greylock Institute, at 
South Williamstown ; St. -Mark's School, at Southborough ; the richly endowed Williston 
Seminary, at Easthampton ; Sanderson Academy, at Ashfield ; Lasell Seminary, at Auburn- 
dale ; Bradford Academy, for girls ; and Abbott Female Seminary, at Andover. 



358 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CHAUNCY-HALL SCHOOL. 



Chauncy-Hall School, of Boston, one of the best preparatory schools in the world, car- 
ries boys and girls from the kindergarten and primary departments to the 
threshold of college or business life. It was founded in 1828; 
and many of its pupils, like Parkman, Ellis, Tuckerman, and 
Weiss, have become famous. Its distinguishing char- 
acteristics are care for health and attention to individ- 
uals. Preparation for the Massachusetts Institute of 
Technology is a specialty. The military drill gives 
the lads a good setting-up, and the girls have calis- 
thenics. The school-building, architecturally attrac- 
tive and provided with all modern conveniences and 
safe-guards, fronts on Copley Square, close to the 
Art Museum, Trinity Church, the new Old South 
Church, and the new Public Library, in the finest 
residence-quarter of the city. Chauncy Hall usually 
has about 300 students. 
The Wesleyan Academy, one of the most notable of New-England institutions, was 
founded in 1818 ; and seven years later it moved to the pleasant old Massachusetts village 
of Wilbraham, where it has since remained. There are six academic buildings, on a domain 
of 200 acres, nestling under the hills eastward of the 
fair Connecticut Valley. Within these walls 16,000 
students have been taught ; and there are now 250, a 
number of them from foreign lands, and the others 
from all parts of the Union. The academy avails itself 
of the excellent and sensible methods suggested by the 
experience of two thirds of a century, in preparing its 
pupils for college, or for business life. Among the 
graduates of this noble old school have been Gov. 
Pitkin, of Colorado ; Gov. Hovey, of Indiana ; ex- 
President Beach, of Wesleyan University ; President Andrews, of Brown University, and 
many eminent bishops and ministers, and other professional men. The faculty includes 14 
teachers, with George M. Steele, D.D., LL.D., as President. 

Among the most celebrated of New-England academies is Allen's West-Newton Eng- 
lish and Classical School, nine miles west of Boston. It occupies a building of historic in- 
terest, wherein, in 1844, was conducted the first normal school in America, and the first for 
young women in the world. Nathaniel T. Allen became connected with it in 1848, and six 
years later, after the Normal School had been removed to Framingham, he opened here a 
private family and day school for boys and girls. This institution has prospered increas- 
ingly from that day to the present time, when it has a hundred students, and a spacious farm 
and industrial annex in the neighboring town of Medfield. Many famous clergymen and 
lawyers, professors and scientists, and a much greater number of men and women in busi- 
ness and other careers, have passed their early years 
conning lessons in this venerable academy, under the 
Allen Brothers, who still conduct the school. It has 
been one of their aims to study the characters and ances- 
tries of their pupils, so to repress bad heredities and 
develop good ones. Among the thousands of young peo- 
ple who have felt the uplift of this school have been 
many Spanish-Americans ; and the roster usually shows 
youths from a score of States and several foreign coun- 
tries, finding in this pleasant Massachusetts village a 
ALLEN'S englIIh* AND^cLAssicAL SCHOOL, noble iustitutlon for the development of mind and spirit. 




WILBRAHAM : WESLEYAN ACADEMY. 




THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



359 




BOSTOh THE YACHT VOLUNTEER, 
THE FASTEST IN THE WORLD. 



Amusements are becoming more and more a feature of life in the Puritan State. The 
favorite athletic sport is base-ball, for whose play nearly every village has its club, while at the 
games played in I5oston 1 0,000 people often gather. Cricket and lacrosse are also very well 
known ; and tennis and croquet. Bicycling finds here its most enthusiastic and successful 
devotees. Yachting has been a favorite amusement for generations among 
this brave maritime people. The yachts built and owned on the coast of the 
Bay State are the fastest in the world. The America, which won the famous 
Queen's Cup, at Cowes, still sails in these waters ; and the Alayflower, 
Puritan and Volunteer^ the three great sloops which for successive years 
have easily outsailed the swiftest British yachts, were planned by Ed- 
ward Burgess, a local naval architect. In theatricals, nearly every town 
has its hall, and the cities their opera-houses, visited by travel- 
ling companies of dramatists. The earliest Massachusetts 
theatre opened in 1794, in Boston. The Boston Theatre 
is one of the largest in the world and has seats for 
3,100 persons. It was built in 1854, and has been the 
scene of the tri- 
umphs of Rachel, 
Ristori, Bern- 
hardt, Janaus- 
chek, Parepa- 
Rosa, P a 1 1 i , 
Lucca, Nilsson, Cary, Kellogg, Mary Anderson, Char- 
lotte Cushman, the Booths, Barrett, Fechter, Forrest, 
Brougham, Jefferson, Boucicault, Wallack, Salviip, 
Irving, and many other illustrious stars. Here 
also have been won the greatest successes of 
the spectacular plays, Michael Strogoff, The 
Exiles, Djaliiia and The Soudan. The exterior 
is simple and inconspicuous, but the magnifi- 
cent auditorium, luxurious parlors and lobbies, 
and grand stairway are distinguished for their 
fitness and beauty. The immense stage has 
every appliance which can aid in giving splendor, 
effect, and realism to its scenes. Eugene Tomp- 
kins is the proprietor and manager of this great 
theatre, which Boucicault said was the finest in 
the world. Many new play-houses have been built, but none to excel this one. 

Of late years the feature of club-life has developed greatly, and all sorts of interests are 
represented, from those served by the Greek-letter societies and literary clubs, the Congrega- 
tional Club, the Unitarian Club, and others, to the athletic and sportsmen's and yacht clubs. 
The most exclusive organization of this kind is the famous Somerset Club, with 600 mem- 
bers, occupying a fine and richly furnished old mansion of white granite, with double swell 

front, richly draped with ivy, and facing on Boston Com- 
mon. It dates from 1852. Not far distant is the house 
of the Union Club, frequented in past days by Everett, 
Andrew, Sumner, Dana, Gray, Hoar, Rice and others. 
The Algonquin Club was organized in 1885, and has a 
magnificent house on Commonwealth Avenue, finished in 
1888, at a cost of $300,000. This is said to be the finest 
club-house in America. The Boston Athletic Associa- 
tion includes 1,800 gentlemen who are interested in 




BOSTON : THE BOSTON 




BOSTON : BOSTON ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION. 



360 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




BOSTON : 
SOMERSET CLUB. 



riding, rowing, yachting, tennis, fencing, bowling, and other manly sports. 
They have a magnificent club-house, built in 1888, at a cost of $300,000, 
with all the needful accessories, Turkish and plunge-baths, tennis- 
courts, and provisions for other athletic exercises. 

Art has for over a century occupied an interesting position in Mas- 
sachusetts. The extensive affiliations of its people with Europe, and the 
foreign travels of many gentlemen like Sumner, Ticknor, Motley, Ilill- 
ard, and Norton, gave a strong impetus to the study and love of art 
among the educated people. Smibert and Copley painted many portraits 
in eastern Massachusetts, before the Revolution. Stuart at a later date 
portrayed the wine-tinted visages of the gentry ; and then came Chester 
Harding, and the historical and ideal painter, Washington Allston. In later years, Wm. 
M. Hunt, George Fuller, George L. Brown, F. P. Vinton, and others flourished and won 
great fame. The Boston Athenteum opened its first public exhibition in 1826. In 1850 the 
Lowell-Institute school of drawing began. The chief sculptors have been Rimmer, Bartlett, 
Milmore, French, and Anne Whitney ; although Greenough, Ball, and Harriet Hosmer were 
also natives of the State, working in Italy. In architecture, the foremost of American 
masters, II. H. Richardson, was a resident, and has left many of his finest works in Mas- 
sachusetts, where also his disciples remain and labor. The Normal Art School is a power- 
ful factor in cesthetic culture, and occupies a noble Byzantine building, in Boston. It was 
established in 1873, by the State, to prepare instructors for industrial drawing in the public 
schools, and for oil and water-color paintings and modelling in clay. Tuition is free to 

Massachusetts teachers, and non-residents are taught for $50 
a term. The Boston Art Club was organized in 1S54, by a 
score of professional artists, and has grown to a membership 
of 800 (largely of business men), having a beautiful Roman- 
|L If. pi^i^p'[ts|,y. ."ii|P|E esque club-house, with large picture-galleries, parlors, 
library and other sumptuous rooms. 

The Boston Museum of Fine Arts occupies a spacious 
range of Italian-Gothic buildings, on Copley Square, and 
contains many hundreds of valuable paintings by Regnault, 
Corot, Couture, Millet, Troyon, Greuze, Copley, Allston, 
Stuart, Constable, Turner, Reynolds, Holbein, Cranach, 
Van de Velde, and other famous masters. It has also great 
and rare collections of statuary, tapestry, pottery, coins, and 
medineval furniture and armor. The museum was founded 
in 1870, and the present building was occupied in 1S76. It is open every day. Clarence 
Cook says that "it is entitled to respect among the museums of the world, as it certainly 
stands first among the museums of our own country." The capit-al art-schools connected 
with the museum, and others in the vicinity, draw students from all parts of the country, 
and great benefit comes to them from the study of the statuary and paintings. 

In the vicinity of Boston Common are found the chief studios, and some of the art- 
schools for which the city is famous. Here also is the 
great picture-gallery and print-shop of Doll & Richards, 
a firm which for many decades has been favorably known 
to the art-lovers and connoisseurs of New England and 
New York. Here may be seen every variety of fine line 
engravings, etchings of great delicacy and force, carbon 
and other photographic reproductions of the leading 
pictures of European galleries, and many admirable and 
beautiful paintings by the foremost of American and 
foreign artists ; and other objects of art, of perennial boston : normal art school. 




.-^iM^^ 








BOSTON DOLL i RICHARDS 



THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 

interest and value. The exhibition-gallery, capitally lighted and ar- 
ranged, has been the scene of many interesting displays of American 
art, from the cool and Corot-like Merrimac-Valley pictures of John 
Appleton Brown to the refined and delicate work of the local genre- 
painters, so widely and so greatly celebrated. Here the choice works of 
Charles H. Davis, Edward E. Simmons, Ross Turner, Winslow Homer, 
Dodge McKnight, and other masters are to be found, on exhibition 
and for sale. The Doll & Richards store and gallery are in the Warren 
Building, which was erected expressly for the accommodation of 
their business. It is near the State House, and fronting on the 
famous Park-Street Mall, of Boston Common. Doll & Richards is to 
Boston what Goupil is to New York, or Hazeltine to Philadelphia. 

The development of popular art of a high order in America owes 
a great deal to Louis Prang, a native and art-student of Breslau, 
Prussia, who came here, in 1 850, as a political refugee. Six years 
later, the young German united with a lithographic printer to make 
pictures of bouquets for ladies' magazines, studying every detail of the business with earnest 
care. In i860 he bouL,'lit out his partner, and adopted the now famous title of L. Prang 

& Co. ; and after the ensuing period of war-maps 
and generals' portraits, he went to Europe, and 
looked over the whole field of lithography. In 
1S65 he brought out the famous Bricher landscapes, 
foUovi'ed by Eastman Johnson's "Barefoot Boy," 
and other triumphs of the new chromo-lithographic 
art, reproducing to the eye the beauty and character 
of the original paintings. Mr. Prang now has a 
large factory in the Roxbury suburb of Boston, and 
employs 150 skilled workmen. Branch-houses are 
established at New York and San Francisco, and 
I r Luhv; L pRAt.^ A CO agencies all over the world. The Prang holiday 

cards, the Prang valentines, the chromo-lithographs, art-studies and other exquisite art- 
products of this house have become famous wherever civilization exists. 

The Low Art Tile Works, at Chelsea, form the most noted establishment of the kind 
in America. John G. Low was a pupil in the studios of Troyon and Couture, and afterwards 
a successful painter. Recognizing the value of plastic art in decoration, he drudged for a 
year in a pottery, to learn its elements ; and then he and his father set up a kiln, where, 
after many costly and vexatious experiments in clays and mixtures and methods, full success 
crowned the work. The materials, Pennsylvania kaolin, Connecticut feldspar and New- 
Jersey clay, are ground as fine as flour and then mixed, 
and moistened like damp sugar, after which they are 
pressed into tiles, and dried for several days in 
the fire-brick kilns. The glaze is then applied and 
baked until it fuses in, forming rich olives and yellows, 
delicate grays and browns, and strong and pure greens 
and blacks. These exquisite tiles, Moorish or classic, 
Renaissance or Elizabethan, with flowers or portraits 

in high relief, are used extensively for friezes and ^ 

borders, hearths and fire-places, and for artistic stoves <^hfi ^ea : ir 

and soda-fountains. In 1889 the business was incorporated as The Low Art Tile Co. 

The Forbes Lithograph Manufacturing Company is an outcome of art development. 
The works at Chelsea, a suburb of Boston, are the most complete and extensive of 
their kind in America, and give employment to 500 people. The main offices are in 




?l£^ 




362 



KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CHELSEA : FORBES LITHOGRAPH MANUFACTURING CO. 



Boston, with branches in New York, Phila- 
delphia, Baltimore, Chicago and San Francisco. 
The business was established in 186 1, and in- 
corporated in 1875 j "i'^*^^ manufactures largely 
for this country, Europe and South America. 
Its product embraces all branches of lithog- 
raphy, from exquisite engravings for banking 
and commercial use to fine chromo-work in 
many colors. Among them are the well-known Albertype reproductions of engravings and 
art-works, for illustrating fine books. It also manufactures very largely for mills and corpor- 
ations. Fine theatrical printing is an important branch. The Forbes Co.'s latest achievement 
in illustration is the new process of Photo-Color work, which is a triumph of modern art. 

The Public Libraries are particularly notable. Foremost stand the great Boston 
Public Library, 570,000 volumes ; the Harvard-University libraries, 377,000; and the Bos- 
ton Athenreum, 155,000. Each of the following exceeds 50,000 volumes: Amherst Col- 
lege, the State Library, and the libraries at New Bedford, Springfield, Worcester, and the 
American Antiquarian Society at Worcester. Each of these exceeds 25,000 volumes : An- 
dover Seminary, Boston Library, Boston Society of Natural History, Haverhill, Essex 
Institute (Salem), Lynn, Brookline, Massachusetts Historical Society (Boston), Lowell, 
Lawrence, Peabody Institute, Congregational (Boston), Taunton, and Woburn. Public 
libraries are supported in 275 cities and towns of Massachusetts, and contain 2, 500,000 books, 
besides which there arc 2,200 religious and other libraries, 
with 3,600,000 books. A legislative commission is em- 
powered to help establish free libraries in the towns not 
yet possessing them. Some of the handsomest stone 
buildings in the country are those erected in Massachu- 
setts, by private munificence, for public libraries. Among 
these are the architectural gem at Woburn, the Crane 
Library at Quincy, the building erected at Maiden by the 
generosity of the Hon. E. S. Converse, that given to 
Cambridge by Frederick H. Rindge, and the libraries at Concord, Lincoln, Newton and 
other localities. The quaintly beautiful Memorial Library and Grand-Army Hall at Man- 
chester-by-the-Sea was presented to the town, in 1887, t)y Thomas Jefferson Coolidge. It 
is French in architectural feeling, adorned with Mexican onyx, Numidian marble, Tiffany 
stained glass, and an ancient carved screen from Morlaix. 

The Boston Public Library, projected in 1841 and incorporated in 1852, is the largest 
in the world for free circulation, and includes the magnificent special collections of George 

Ticknor, Theodore Parker, Nathaniel Bowditch, 
Edward Everett and others. There are eight branch 
libraries in the city. The municipality grants 
about $120,000 a year to the library; and is now 
L«i ^yh^r^ ;a';h'^°.a.^i!Sri ^^^ l O ||k^ _ erecting for it a magnificent and spacious new stone 
■«llMe=-:. ] building, in the similitude of a Roman palace, at 
a cost of over $2,000,000. The library issues 
1,000,000 books a year for home use, and 700,000 
periodicals in the reading-room. It is one of the 
most popular and useful institutions of the modern 
Athens. 

The Nevins Memorial Library at Methuen was founded in memory of the late David 
Nevins, a prominent merchant and manufacturer, who passed the greater part of his life at 
Methuen, where he died in 1881. It had been his intention to found a library during his life- 
time ; and this unfulfilled purpose was carried out by his widow and sons, and the Nevins 




QUINCY : CRANE LIBRARY. 




BOSTON : BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY. 




METHUEN ; NEVINS MEIvlOHIAL LIBRARY. 



THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 363 

Memorial Library arose, on the site chosen and 
purchased for that use, years before. The build- 
ing was planned, and its construction supervised, 
by the well-known architect, Samuel J. F. 
Thayei-, of Boston, and the complete structure 
was opened to the public in 1884. It contains 
an ample and beautiful public hall, a library of 
10,000 volumes, reading-room, waiting-room, 
and librarian's and trustees' apartments. The 
building is a handsome Romanesque edifice, with 
some very interesting architectural features. It 
is the purpose of the founders to endow the in- 
stitution with enough money to make it entirely 
self-supporting. In its noble public libraries, Massachusetts leads all the States. 

The New-England Conservatory t)f Music in Boston is the largest school of music and 
associated arts in the world, having 80 instructors, and 2,200 students. The late Dr. Eben 
Tourjee introduced the Conservatory system (since so widely copied) to America, in 1853, 
and established this school in 1867. It was incorporated and placed under the control of a 
board of 50 trustees in 1870; and in 1882 the immense and handsome St. -James-Hotel 
building, on Franklin Square, was purchased 
for its use. Its spacious halls include the 
offices, instruction-rooms, reception-rooms, li- 
brary, museum, and concert-room, and 
home accommodations for 400 lady- 
pupils. The Conservatory embraces five 
departments : I, music, embracing 
all branches of technical and theo- 
retical study ; 2, piano and organ 
tuning ; 3, general literature and 
languages ; 4, elocution and physical 
culture, and the College of Oratory ; 
5, Fine Arts. The musical instruction of the College of Music of Boston University is also 
given here. Pupils come hither from all parts of the United States, and from many other 
countries, and enjoy not only the best possible facilities for study, but a large list of free 
collateral advantages, and all the safeguards and comforts of a Christian home. The faculty 
includes many of the most learned and prominent artists and teachers in this country, and 
neither money nor effort is spared to make the institution worthy in the highest degree of 
public confidence and patronage. The trustees and officers include a number of the best- 
known and most influential and respected business men and clergymen of Boston. The 
fact that the Conservatory has achieved its eminent success without any endowment or other 

aid, makes it unique among educational institutions. 
Relieved of indebtedness, and in the possession of the 
endowment of which its success and great usefulness have 
made it worthy, the Conservatory will prove a yet greater 
honor to Boston and a blessing to the world. 

Memorials. — The uncounted myriads who have 
passed from the old Bay State into the unknown land 
beyond the grave are honored by many a beautiful ceme- 
tery, unsurpassed in the world. Among these are 
Mount Auburn, at Cambridge, the last resting-place of 
Longfellow, Agassiz and Sumner, and many other 
BOSTON : BOSTON ART CLUB. iUustrious men ; Forest Hills and Mount Hope, also 




tMEW-ENGLAND CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC. 




364 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




WILLIAMSTOWN MONUMENT 

WHERE THE FOREIGN MISSION 

MOVEMENT STARTED. 



near Boston ; Woodlawn, at Chelsea ; the Newton Cemetery ; 
Harmony Grove, at Salem ; Pine Grove, at Lynn ; Oak Hill, at 
Newburyport ; Oak Grove, at Springfield ; and many others. In 
the Sleepy-Hollow burying-ground, at Concord, are the graves 
of Hawthorne, Emerson and Thoreau. Each village has its God's 
Acre, oftentimes with quaint monuments two centuries old. And 
on the 30th of May of every year the old soldiers of the Grand 
Army, and grateful friends and kinsmen, heap high with flowers 
the graves of the men who died in battle. 

As becomes a community at once wealthy and public-spirited, 
ancient and highly educated, Massachusetts has many fine monu- 
ments and memorials within her borders. Besides the grand 
works of art at Plymouth and Duxbury, and the costly soldiers' 
monuments in nearly every town, and the Washington statues, 
there is the statue of Gov. John A. Andrew, at Hingham ; of Josiah Bartlett, a signer of the 
Declaration of Independence, at Amesbury ; of the Minute-Man, at Concord ; and of Sum- 
ner and Everett, Garrison and Hamilton, and other celebrities, at Boston. Interesting 
antiquities abound in various towns, like the Old Corner Bookstore, in Boston, for years 
the favorite resort of Longfellow and Lowell, Holmes and Emerson, and often visited by 
Dickens and Thackeray ; the old Wayside Inn, in Sudbury, the scene of Longfellow's famous 
poem: the Cradock mansion, at Medford, built in 1634; the Old Manse, at Concord; the 
Pilgrim houses, at Plymouth; the Hingham church (1681); the First Church, in Salem, 
built in 1634; the birthplaces and tombs of the Presidents 
Adams, in Quincy ; the old Witch house, and Hawthorne's 
birthplace, in Salem ; the birthplace of Garrison and the grave 
of Whitefield, at Newburyport. The preservation of many 
similar objects is not left to haphazard, but will inhere in a 
body of trustees chosen from persons interested in historic 
relics and scenic beauty, and qualified to act as guardians for 
the people, of such properties and domains. 

Maritime Commerce was one of the main developing 
features of Massachusetts, and began with the very foundation 
of the colony, whose vessels used to cruise to Virginia, Fayal, 
and other distant ports. After the Revolution, the great Salem 
trade with the East Indies came into existence, and was carried 
forward by many sagacious merchants and daring navigators. Sumatra and the Philippines, 
Madagascar and Zanzibar, Calcutta and the Chinese ports, alike welcomed and enriched 
the Essex mariners. The exportations of granite and ice afforded occupation for many 
vessels ; and large fleets of whaling ships sailed from the home ports of New 
Bedford and Nantucket. The clippers built at Medford, Newburyport, and 
East Boston were the fastest ships afloat, and fitted up in the most elaborate 
manner. One of them made the run from San Francisco to Boston, around 
the Horn, in 75 days ; another went from San Francisco to Cork in 93 days. 
There were no better ships in the world than those built in and sailing from 
Massachusetts ports between 1840 and i860, and they won no 
small share of the world's freighting. Two causes combined to 
practically annihilate this business, the extension of steam 
navigation, and the ravages of Confederate privateers. And to 
these may be added the suspension of ship-building, caused by 
eccentric legislation at Washington. Less than one fifth of 
the exports and imports of Massachusetts is carried in Ameri- 
can bottoms. But there are many vessels in the coasting trade ; 




NORTH EASTON : TOWN HALL. 




MOLYOKE : CITY HALL. 



THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



365 




WORCESTER 



and Massachusetts has a tonnage of 526,200, coming next after New- 
York and Maine. 

The Fisheries employ more than half the fishing-vessels and 
tonnage in the United States, the daring mariners of Gloucester, Prov- 
incetown, and other ports following the deep-sea fisheries around 
Newfoundland and Labrador, the Bay of Chalcur and George's Bank, 
and returning with abundant fares of cod, halibut and mackerel. There 
are also lucrative shore-fisheries, including hake and haddock, pollock 
and blue-fish, and the valuable shell-fish of the harbors. The Massa- 
chusetts fisheries employ 1,000 sail and 20,000 men, and support 
100,000 persons. Much of the old-time maritime spirit still lingers 
along the Massachusetts coast, waiting for the renascence of American commerce. The 
shipping trade of Boston is second only to that of New York, its annual imports passing 
$60,000,000, with nearly an equal amount of exports. In a single year 230,000 tons of 
American vessels enter, and over 1,000,000 tons of foreign ships; and nearly 9,000 coast- 
wise vessels arrive in the various sea-ports of the old Bay State. 

Population. — Three fourths of the people are American-born ; one eighth, Irish-born ; 
and one ninth born in Canada or Great Britain. There are 25,000 Germans, 10,000 Swedes, 
5,000 Italians, 3,000 Frenchmen (and 70,000 French Canadians), and 5,000 Azoreans 
(Portuguese). The colored people include 400 Indians, 500 Chinamen, 
negroes and 6,000 mulattoes. There are also groups of Mexicans and 
Americans, Japanese and Sandwich - Islanders, 
Turks and Greeks. Boston has among its in- 
habitants, American-born, 260,000 ; Irish, 70,000; 
Canadian, 35,000; German, 10,000; and Italian, 
3,000. Of the people, 1,200,000 were born in 
Massachusetts, 80,000 in Maine, 60,000 in New 
Hampshire, 35,000 in Vermont, 25,000 in Rhode 
Island, 25,000 in Connecticut, 45,000 in New 
York, 4,000 in New Jersey, and 6,000 in Penn- 
sylvania. On the other hand, the State has given 
40,000 to New York, about 20,000 each to Rhode Island, New Hampshire, Connecticut, 
and Illinois ; 10,000 each to California, Maine, Iowa, Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Ver- 
mont, and Wisconsin ; and about 5,000 each to New Jersey, Missouri, Minnesota, Kansas, 
and Colorado. 

The making of boots and shoes occupies 62,000 persons ; cotton goods, 58,000 ; build- 
ing, 50,000; metal-working, 30,000; clothing, 33,000; and machinery, 16,000. Over two 
fifths of the population are engaged in remunerative industries, 
including two thirds of the men and one fifth of the women. 
One fourth of this great army of workers is in the textile in- 
dustries. There are 425,000 families in the State, with an 
average of 4^ persons to each. Every fifth person is a voter. 
The density of population, or number of inhabitants to the 
square mile, exceeds that of any other State except Rhode Is- 
land. It is greater than that of Austria, France, Germany, or 
Spain ; almost identical with that of Italy and Japan ; and only 
exceeded by Belgium, Great Britain, the Netherlands, and 
India. The discrepancy of men to women is accounted for by 
the deaths of many thousand soldiers ; the disasters yearly de- 
vastating the fishing-fleets ; and the continuous drain of emigra- 
tion to the far West, where men naturally take the initiative. 
The gain of population between 1865 and 1875 was 384,881, 




FALL RIVER : B. M. C. DURFEE HIGH SCHOOL. 




BOSTON : UNITARIAN BUILDING. 



366 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

while between 1875 and 18S5 it was 290,229, a decrease of relative gain attributable to the 

necessary slackening of growth as a State becomes more fully populated, and also to the extra 

immigration caused by the new speculative enterprises in the 1865-75 period, and to the 

emigration 

There are 

or one to 

25,1 28 of 

English- 

1 630 and 




^^^<£^.dift^ 



BOSTON : PARK-STREET CHURCH. 



drawn by the development of the South and West in the 1875-85 period. 
310,248 occupied dwelling-houses (and 14,580 unoccupied) in the State, 
each (i\ persons or i^ families. Of these houses 297,958 are of wood ; 
brick ; and 648 of stone. The original stock of the population was 20,000 
men and Englishwomen, who settled in Massachusetts mainly between 
1640. After the Civil War and the rise of the Commonwealth, it 
became possible for men loving liberty in religious and politi- 
cal affairs to dwell happily in England, and the tide of emi- 
gration ceased flowing to New England. Then for a century 
and a half the isolated English colonists were left to their 
own devices, and increased rapidly, preserving the purity of 
their race, and intensifying the ideas of civil and religious 
liberty which had been brought over the lonely Western seas, 
and handed down as precious heirlooms for future genera- 
tions. During the present century successive waves of immi- 
gration have poured into Massachusetts, the first being the 
great Irish inflowing, chiefly of the laboring classes, hard- 
working and versatile, and good Catholics, withal. Next came the French- 
from the St. -Lawrence Valley, thousands of whom have settled in each of 
facturing cities, with their societies. Catholic churches, and French news- 
The coast-cities, Provincetown, New Bedford, and Boston, contain commu- 
Azore-Islanders, skilful in the fisheries. Recently a notable number of Ar- 
menians and Moors have been added to the population. Amid this con- 
junction of nationalities, there is very little fusion, and the descendants 
of the Puritans retain their intense Englishry ; the Irishmen parade the 
streets on St. Patrick's day, jocund with green decorations ; the 
Italians have their own banks and restaurants ; the Germans, 
their Liedertafel, Turnerbund and Zeitu7ig ; the French, their 
Trois Freres and Ahbt's ; the Russians their synagogues and sacred 
days. There is but little mixing, yet general good temper and 
fraternity prevails between all classes and races, in spite of the 
pernicious and pestilent vaporings of a few religious 
and political fanatics. 

Religion was the cause of the founding of Massa- 
chusetts, and has always been an important factor in its life. The Plymouth 
colonists pertained to the Congregational church, established in England 
in 1583, by Robert Brown ; and the Salem and Boston evangelical Church- 
men became also Congregationalists almost as soon as they reached 
America. This sect now has in Massachusetts 540 societies, with 700 
■ .— .1 ministers, 100,000 church-members, and 115,000 Sun- 

day-School pupils. The New Old South Church, in Bos- 
ton, is a magnificent North-Italian-Gothic edifice, with 
a stone campanile 248 feet high, and rich carvings, stone 
mosaics, Venetian mosaics, stained windows, and rare 
marbles. It was built in 1874-5, at a cost of $500,000. 
The society dates from 1669. The Unitarian church 
came out from Congregationalism between 1805 and 
181 5, after half a century of Arminian controversies, 
BOSTON : NEW OLD SOUTH CHURCH. taking with it the venerable First and Second Churches 





BOSTON : 
OLD SOUTH MEETING HOUSE. 




'^^ 



■* f5^M 




THE STATE OE MASSACHUSETTS. 367 

of Boston, and many other ancient societies. The flower of Massachusetts culture entered 
the new hberal movement, including Channing, Parker, Freeman Clarke, Palfrey, Everett, 
Emerson, Peabody, Pierpont, Starr King, Lowell, Longfellow, and Holmes. The head- 
quarters of the sect is the noble Unitarian Building, in Bos- ton, of heavy brown- 
stone, and resembling the fortress-like palaces of Tuscany. T The first local Baptist 
church was organized in 1662, and suffered grievous per- A secution. The sect 
has now over 300 churches, 60,000 com- 
municants, and 65,000 Sunday - School 
pupils. Its finest church is on Common- 
wealth Avenue, Boston, with a noble cam- 
panile enriched by sculptures by Bartholdy. 
The Methodist movement here began in 
1 79 1, when Jesse Lee founded the first 
church, at Lynn ; and now numbers 500 
churches, with 60,000 members. The 
Episcopalians gathered at King's Chapel, 
Boston, in 16S8. Though sadly depleted ~^ " ^ 

, ,, T-, , ,. ,,r ,v /-^i 1 BOSTON : TRIMTV CHURCH. 

by the Revolutionary War, the Church 

has of late years grown rapidly, and has no parishes and 6S missions, 180 clergymen, 
26,000 communicants, and 18,000 Sunday- School pupils. The Bishops of Massachusetts 
ha\e been Edward Bass, 1797-1803; Samuel Parker, 1804; A. V. Gris- 
wold, 181 1-43; Manton Eastburn, 1843-72; B. H. Paddock, 1873-91; 
and Phillips Brooks. Trinity Church, in Boston, has a vast French 
Romanesque edifice, the finest Protestant church in America, with a cen- 
tial to\\er 21 1 feet high, picturesque cloisters, and an interior enriched by 
masteily frescoes and storied windows. St. INlichael's, at Marblehead, 
was built before the Revolution. St. Paul's, at Newburyport, 
received its communion service from Queen Anne of England. 
Grace, at Newton ; St. Paul, at Stockbridge ; Christ, at 
Springfield; and St. Stephen, at Lynn; are handsome stone 
cluirches. St. John the Evangelist (Cowley Fathers) and the 
Church of the Advent, in Boston, are ritualistic. Christ 
Church, in Boston, dates from 1723, and has a chime of an- 
cient bells in its tower, where the lanterns were hung out, in 
1775, which signalled Paul Revere to alarm the minute-men. 
The first Catholic church in the State was organized in 
1790, and the Episcopal See of Boston dates from 180S, when it embraced all New 
England. In 1875 the Archdiocese of Boston was founded, 
to include Essex, Middlesex, Suffolk, Norfolk, and Plymouth 
counties. Massachusetts has 1 50 Catholic churches, 47 1 priests, 
63 parochial schools, and 44 convents. The Cathedral of the 
Holy Cross, in Boston, in Early English Gothic architecture, 
364 feet long, is one of the largest in the world, with rich win- 
dows and altars, and a vaulted oaken roof 95 feet high, on 
lines of clustered bronze columns. The Catholic churches are 
generally very large and very plain, and used by several con - 
gregations at different hours. 

Universalism was established here in 1 773, by John Murra, 
of England, who became pastor of the society at Gloucester. 
Its headquarters and publishing-house are in Boston ; and 
the chief society is that of Dr. A. A. ]\Iiner, which was 
founded by the famous Hosea Ballou, its pastor from 1817 to 




FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH 






CAMBRIDGE : HASTINGS HALL, HARVARD COLLEGE. 



368 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

1852. Massachusetts has a few societies of the New Church, and of Disciples, Presbyter- 
ians, P'riends and other sects. The ancient Armenian Church is also represented. 

The Hebrews are a well-to-do and influ- 
ential people, and have eight synagogues and 
20,000 people in Boston alone, with Chew- 
ras, Schwestern, and lodges of B'nai B'rith 
and Kesher Shel Barsel, and various Israel- 
itish institutions. The most interesting of 
these is the Marcus Orthodox Synagogue, 
the only place of worship in Boston where 
religious services are held thrice every day 
in the year ; and probably also the only 
one in which contributions are never taken. 
The building was formerly a Baptist church, 
and about the year 18S0 was bought by Alfred A. and Kate Marcus, and their daughter and 
son, who have since maintained the ancient ceremonials of the Jewish church here, at their own 
expense. The interior is fitted up with an Oriental richness which contrasts strangely with the 
simplicity of the exterior. The holy ark is of mahogany, and 
two carved lions support the Ten Commandments. The 
interior of the ark contains ten rows of the holy scrolls of 
the Law, a hundred years old. One was sent by the late Sir 
Moses Montcfiore, and others came from Jerusalem and 
other parts of the world. They are ornamented with 
satin cord, breast-plates and bells of silver and gold. 

The First Spiritual Temple, on the Back Bav. 
Boston, is the richest and costliest building 
used by Spiritualists in the world. It is a 
great Romanesque structure, of delicately 
carved stone, and cost $250,000. There 
are thousands of Spiritualists in Boston, 
Lynn, and other cities. 

Shaker communities are found in the 
rural counties, but are declining in numbers. 

Humane sentiments are carefully inculcated by several active societies, with vigilant 
officials, publications. Bands of Mercy, and other energetic agencies. One of the eccentric 
phases of this kindly work is the Ellen M. Gifford Sheltering Home for Animals, a large 
estate at Brighton, where several hundred homeless and maimed dogs and cats are taken in 
yearly, to be furnished with homes or mercifully killed. 

The Boston Young Men's Christian Union, instituted in 
1851, numbers 5,000 members, and has an admirable build- 
ing in the central part of the city, near the Common. Its 
rooms are a home for young men, with amusements, library, 
museum, gymnasium, lectures and concerts, music and the- 
atricals, and courses of study. The building is one of the 
most perfect of its kind ever erected. The Young Women's 
Christian Association of Boston has a large and handsome 
building, with hall, library, gymnasium, restaurant, and 
dormitories ; and furnishes for girls temporary shelter and 
permanent board, industrial teaching, and an employment 
bureau, and amusements. It is a philanthropy, but not a 
charity. The Young Men's Christian Association of Boston 
HoosAc MOUNTAIN : HoosAc TUNNEL. ^^^s a Hoblc Scotch-barouial building; and the Associations 




BOSTON : 

MARCUS ORTHODOX 

SYNAGOGUE, 





THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 369 

of the minor cities and towns are full of zeal and activity. Similar interests are served by 
numerous Young Men's Catholic Associations and Young Men's Hebrev^^ Associations. 

In Railroads Massachusetts has more miles in proportion to her area than any other 
State, the lines crossing the country in every direction. Her tracks cost above $70,000 a 
mile. This was one of the first American communities to build railways. The old 
Indian trails 
traversed by 
Providence, 
from Boston 
20 locks and 



developed into bridle-paths, and these into the turnpikes, which were 
the great six-horse stages from Boston to Newburyport, Worcester, 
and Hartford. In 1804 came the opening of the Middlesex Canal, 
to Lowell, 27 miles long, 30 feet wide and four feet deep, with 
seven aqueducts, and built at a cost of $575,000. The Blackstone 
Canal, 40 miles long, was opened from Worcester to Provi- 
dence, in 1S25. Two years later, the Granite Railway ran 
a three-mile line from the Quincy quarries to tide-water, the 
first railway in America. It was operated by horse-power, 
the first business being the transportation of stone for Bunker- 
Hill Monument. The State authorities surveyed the Boston 
& Lowell route in 1829, and its building began in 1830. By 
1835 Massachusetts had lOO miles of railroad in operation. 
Although the toll per mile on passenger-travel is larger in 
other sections, he-r railroads pay larger dividends than those 
of the Middle, Southern or Western States. 
Some of the finest buildings are the railway stations, such as those at Worcester and 
Springfield, and the rural stations at North Easton, West Medford, and other points. The 
Boston terminal station of the Lowell System of the Boston & Maine Railroad, built in 187 1, 
is one of the largest in America. The terminal station of the 
Providence Division of the Old-Colony Railroad is one of the 
most commodious and beautiful in the world. It cost above 
$800,000. The architecture is Gothic, with a great central 
hall of noble proportions and decoration, and a clock-tower 
of unusual grace. This is the Boston terminal of the well- 
known Providence and Stonington lines, to New York. The 
chief feat in railroad construction in Massachusetts is the 
Hoosac Tunnel, cut through the Hoosac Mountain for 4f 
miles, at a cost of $16,000,000, to shorten the route from Boston to the West. This stu- 
pendous work of engineering took 20 years for its construction, and was opened in 1874. 
The cost was borne by the State. 

The street railways are 46 in number, with 620 miles of track, and an aggregate capital 
stock of $12,300,000, and gross debts of $8,500,000. They carry above 150,000,000 
passengers yearly. 

The great railway routes are the Old-Colony, covering the south-eastern counties and 
Cape Cod with its lines ; the New-York and New-England : the Boston & Albany, for New 



BOSTON : PROVIDENCE STATION. 
PROVIDENCE LINE TO NEV/ YORK. 




BOSTON . KING S CHAPEL. 



York and the West 



the Fitchbursf, 




BOSTON : 
NEW-YORK & NEW-ENGLAND RAILROAD STATION. 



Hoosac-Tunnel Route ; and the Boston & Maine, a 
consolidation of all the lines in the northeast, cover- 
ing the routes to New Hampshire, Maine and 
Canada. The New York & New- England Railroad 
is a first-class road in every respect, and passes 
through some of the largest cities and towns in 
Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut and New 
York, Boston, Providence, Worcester, Springfield, 
Hartford, New Britain, Waterbury, Danbury, Nor- 
wich, New London, Putnam, Willimantic, Manches- 
ter, Rockville, Fishkill-on-Hudson, Newburgh and 











ill 




boston: NEW-ENGLAND MUTUAL LIFE- 
INSURANCE COMPANY. 



370 AVA'G'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Xew York. It runs through trains, with parlor-cars, sleeping- 
cars, coaches and dining-cars, which are unsurpassed in ele- 
gance. This is the shortest line between Boston and New- 
York, being only 213 miles by the Air Line Route; and 
trains make the run in six hours. Through Pullman sleep- 
ing-cars are carried on trains between Boston, Philadelphia, 
Baltimore and Washington, passing by the steamer Jllarv- 
land around New-York City, and thence by the Pennsylvania 
Railroad. This line runs the old and reliable Norwich 
Line, between Boston and New York, by a steamboat ex- 
press-train between Boston and New London, and the ele- 
gant steamers City of Worcester, City of Boston and City of 
New York, between New London and New York. These 
steamers are perfectly appointed for speed, comfort and safety. 
Frequent trains are run between Boston and Providence. The 
main line extends 228 miles, from Boston to Newburgh, on the Hudson River, there con- 
necting with 1 the Erie Road, and making a through line to all points West. 

The ancient f canals between Lowell and Boston (Middlesex), and elsewhere 

have long since i been abandoned and closed. The Cape-Cod Canal is designed to 
connect Massa- Jl chusetts Bay and Buzzards Bay, by the way of Herring River, f o 
save the lone An and perilous rounding of Cape Cod. It was begun in 1880, and 
advances but slowly. 

Steamships and packets connect Boston with all points on 
the eastern sea-board, and with New York, Philadelphia, Norfolk, 
Baltimore, Savannah, and Liverpool. The well-known 
Boston & Bangor Steamship line runs its fine vessels from 
this port to Portland, Rockland, Bangor, Bar Harbor,- 
Mount Desert, and other points on the coast of Maine. 

Life-insurance in America began in Boston, with 
Prof. Wigglesworth's tables of American life, and the 
annuity plans of the Massachusetts General Hospital. 
The Massachusetts Hospital Life-insurance Company 
dates from 1S18, but now deals only with trusts and an- 
nuities. The second company in the State was the New- 
England Mutual Life-insurance Company, chartered in 1835, and now one of the leading 
corporations of the Republic. The New-England policies are plain and simple, with 
liberal terms of residence, travel and occupation, so that the in- 
surer remains unhampered. In 1874 the company erected a fire- 
proof granite building on Post-Ofiice Square, Boston. The Nev\- 
England Mutual is not only the oldest, but it is also one of the 
strongest corporations of the kind in the United States. Its 
assets are in the vicinity of $22,000,000, and the yearly income 
reaches $3,500,000. The president, Benjamin F. Stevens, has 
been connected with the company for 45 years, being the longest 
term of service of any American life-insurance officer. The 
vice-president has been with the company for 42 years. No in 
surance company in the world has a better record for able niai 
agement and equitable settlement of claims. 

The thrifty Massachusetts people take much interest in life-in- 
surance. Two of the most magnificent buildings in Boston are the 
vast fire-proof stone palaces of the Equitable Assurance Society 

1,1 Tvi , 1 T T T r- ^1 ,1 <- XT IT 1 \ BOSTON : EQUITABLE LIFE AS6UR- 

and the Mutual Lite-Insurance Company (both of New \ ork). ^j^ce society of n. y. 




BCsTON 
MUTUAL LIFE-INSURANCE CO. OF N. 




THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



371 








BOSTON : 
THE BOSTON HERALD 



The Newspapers and Periodicals of Massachusetts number 
more than 600. Their precursors were Piiblick Occurrences, of which a 
single number appeared in 1690, and The Boston News-Letter, founded 
in 1704, and puljlislied for 72 years, or until the British evacuated the 
town. The Massachusetts Spy, started in 1770, was carried to Worcester 
when Boston became a British garrison, and is still published there. 
Massachusetts has 55 daily newspapers, of which eight are in Boston. 

Among the few great newspapers in the country one of the Boston 
papers takes prominent place. Any history of journalistic enterprises in 
the United States would be incomplete unless it included the history of 
77/e Boston Herald. Depending, as the Herald s.\\\'a.ys has, on its excel- 
lence as a newspaper for its standing, its great circulation has been ob- 
tained by the slow growth of years, and to-day it has a constituency that 
the combined efforts of all the other papers in New England cannot shake. 
The Herald occupies one of the most prominent buildings in the city, 
equipped with every device for facilitating its tremendous business. 
Mechanically it is the best-furnished of any newspaper in Boston, possess- 
ing two huge quadruple Hoe presses, a double Hoe press and a single 
Hoe press, able to flood the streets of Boston with Heralds at ten minutes' 
notice. In addition to its superb 
Washington-street office, the Herald 
maintains in another part of the city another office, fur- 
nished with Bullock perfecting presses, stereotype ma- 
chinery and a full outfit of type. This office is ready 
for use at a moment's notice, it being shnply a question 
of moving the men from the present office to the sub- 
office. So far as is known, ihe Heraldic the only news- 
paper in the country that maintains an establishment of 
this sort in idleness, awaiting an emergency that might 
require its use. In politics the Herald is independent, 
commenting with unprejudiced fairness on the actions 
of both political parties, commending the good in each ^°®™'' ' ^oungmen's christian association. 
and condemning the wrong. This attitude of itself gives the paper a tremendous influence, 
as its readers feel that its editorial comments on public questions are entirely unprejudiced. 
In matters of newspaper enterprise it is a provcrli in Boston that the Herald always leads. 
Boston has the honor of publishing the paper which has a larger circulation than any 
other weekly paper in the world. This journal. The Youth'' s Companion, has long since 
become a favorite in nearly half a million families to which it makes its weekly visits. The 
Companion was founded in 1827, by Nathaniel Willis, who continued to be its publisher until 
1859, when it passed into the hands of Perry Mason & Company, its present publishers. It 
had from the very beginning a high aim, and though winning its way slowly at first, it has 
grown to enormous proportions, and now is received in nearly every city, town and hamlet 
in the United States. It is interesting to know that 
over 30 tons of paper are needed to print each issue. 
This national success has not been secured through 
the success of any one year, but through the strict 
adherence to the policy originally laid down by its 
publisher, to give the subscribers all that could be 
afforded. The paper's success has been such that 
it is enabled to secure the literary services of the 
most famous writers in the world. Each volume 
contains 700 pages, and over 500 illustrations. The ^^^,^^ , youths companion building. 





372 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




Springfield: "farm and home.' 
phelps publishing co. 



staff of editors numbers 24; and a large number of artists and engravers are continually at 
work upon the illustrations ; while more than 200 people are required to print, fold, mail, 
and attend to other details. The new home of the Companion, in process of erection, on 
Columbus Avenue, besides being fully equipped for the pub- 
lishing business, is one of the grandest buildings in Boston. 

One of the most interesting and remarkable successes has 
been that of the Phelps Publishing Company, of Springfield. 
The foundation of this business was the paper called TJie 
Ne7u-E>igland Homestead, established in 1867 by Henry M. 
Burt, and bought in 1878 by Edward H. Phelps. This has 
advanced from a circulation of 1,500 to above 32,000. The 
Springfield Homestead, a news and society paper, was founded 
in 1878, and has reached a circulation of 7,000. But the great 
publication of the Phelps Company is Farm and Home, a 
fortnightly paper, founded in 1880, and now issuing 250,000 
copies of each number, circulating in every State and Terri- 
tory. In the ten years between 1 880 and 1890, the three pub- 
lications of this company rose from an aggregate circulation 
of 9,500 to 289,000. The officesare in a commodious building owned by the company, and 
fully equipped with modern printing and binding and mailing outfits. The Phelps publica- 
tions have great constituencies all over America, for although originally planned mainly for 
New-England subscribers, their unusual, excellence has won for them a continental fame 
and favor. In a corresponding degree, to meet the demands of this broader field, the plan 
and scope of Farm and Home have been enlarged and enriched on all sides. 

Chief Cities. — Boston, the capital of Massachusetts and the metropolis of New Eng- 
land, is picturesquely placed on an island-strewn harbor at the head of Massachusetts Bay. 
It stands in the midst of suburbs of unusual beauty, in a pleasant undulating country dotted 
with woodlands and limpid lakelets, and lighted by the shining curves of the Charles, 
Neponset and Mystic Rivers. The city has a costly Post-Office, a gray old classic Custom 
House, the new Court House of Suffolk County, the golden-domed State House, the new 
Exchange and Chamber of Commerce buildings, and many other noble and interesting 
structures. The hilly North End, the site of the ancient Boston, is now densely populated 
by the poor, including thousands of Italians, Azore-Islanders and Russians ; the South 
End, nearly all reclaimed from the harbor, is given up to residence-streets ; and the Back 
Bay, also on ground made by filling in the harbor, is the fashionable locality, with the great 
churches, museums and educational institutions. Outside the densely populated region, a 
belt of parks and parkways surrounds the city, on its landward sides. Boston has a large 
commerce and many manufactures, and other attributes of a first-class American city; but 
her chief distinctions are in her literary culture and historic interest. Nearly all the great 
literary men of America have dwelt in or near the Puritan City. Longfellow and Lowell, 
Whittier and Emerson, Hawthorne and Holmes, Thoreau and Parkman, Motley and Pres- 
cott, all of them natives of Massachusetts, dwelt in or near Boston. Howells has written 
his best works here, and Aldrich his brightest poems. The golden age of American litera- 
ture found its consummate flowering at Boston between 1850 and 1880. The famous pub- 
lishing house conducted by Wm. D. Ticknor and James T. Fields brought out the great 
works of Longfellow and Whittier, Lowell and Holmes, and the other leaders in modern 
letters. These inimitable lines of books are now published here by Houghton, Mifflin & 
Co., the publishers also of the Atlantic Monthly ; and Ticknor & Co. (headed by Benjamin 
H. Ticknor, a son of the founder of Ticknor & Fields) own The American Architect, the 
most authoritative, influential and beautiful architectural journal in the world. At Cam- 
bridge are the Riverside Press and the University Press, for many years famous for their 
vast production of fine books. 



THE STATE OE ALISSACIIUSE'TTS. 



373 




CAMBRIDGE : RIND&E MANUAL TRAINING SCHOOL. 



Among the historic buildings now cherished with 
pious care by the Bostonians are the Old State House, 
Faneuil Hall, King's Chapel, the Old South Church, 
and Christ Church. The Massachusetts Histprical 
Society is the oldest in the Union, having been 
founded in 179 1. The New- England Historic Genea- 
logical Society also has a commodious building in Bos- 
ton, with a large library. The first Masonic lodge in America was founded here in 1733. 
Boston Common, with its lawns and ancient trees, nearly in the centre of the city, is crossed 
by many well-trodden paths, and partly occupied by a parade-ground, the scene of frequent 
military ceremonials. From the contiguous Public Garden the magnificent Commonwealth 
Avenue stretches away toward the Brookline hills. The historic and literary interest abid- 
ing here, the number and fame of its colleges, and the accessibility of its great libraries and 
art-collections have made Boston (arid Cambridge) one of the chief educational centres of 
the world, and one of the most charming places of residence. 

Cambridge, separated from Boston by the Charles River, enjoys a world-wide fame as the 
seat of Harvard University. It has been much adorned by the noble buildings of the City 
Hall, Manual Training School, and Library, lately presented to it by Frederick H. Rindgc. 
Other important suburbs are Woburn (13,499 inhabitants), abounding in tanneries ; Chelsea 



pottery ; Wal- 
watches ; Som- 
with many hills ; 




v;OBURN : PUBLIC LIBRARY. 



(27,909), close to Boston and the sea, and famous for its tiles and 
tham (18,707), on the Charles, known the world over for its 
erville and Maiden (23,031), suburban and manufacturing cities, 
Quincy (16,723), with its granite-quarries, and 
the homes and graves of the Adams family; 
Newton (24,379), with the homes of Boston busi- 
ness men, in a lovely region of hills and forests, 
])onds and streams ; and Brookline (12, 103), one 
of the most beautiful suburbs in the world. These 
ancient and historic environs have a great diver- 
sity of scenery, the sea-veined salt-marshes to- 
ward Lynn, the meadows of the Charles and Neponset, and the rocky-cliffs of Nahant. 

The cities of the Essex coast are Lynn, with 12,000 persons engaged in shoe-manufac- 
turing; Peabody (10,158), which has dozens of leather factories; Gloucester (24,651 in- 
habitants), the foremost cod and mackerel fishing-port in the world, on a noble harbor near 
the rocky tip of Cape Ann, which. abounds in granite-quarries ; Salem (30,801), the mother- 
city of Massachusetts, and the birth-place of Hawthorne, famous for its libraries and 
museums, and legend-haunted streets; and Newburyport (13,947), an ancient sea-city on 
high ground near the mouth of the Merrimac River, with great shipyards (now silent), 
the beautiful High Street, and many quaint old colonial mansions. Near by is the first 
chain-bridge built in America ; the late Ben : Perley Poore's estate of Indian Hill, "the 
Abbotsford of New England"; Dummer Academy, founded by Lieut. -Gov. Dummer in 
1756 ; the 17th-century Garrison House, near Oldtown Green ; and the weird sand-dunes of 

Plum Island, fronting the sea for three leagues. Marble- 
head is a quaint old maritime town, close to the open sea, 
and latterly a famous resort for the yachting squadrons. 

Lowell, the Spindle City, uses the great water-power 
of Pawtucket Falls, on the Merrimac River, and runs a 
million spindles in its enormous cotton-mills, making 
145,000 miles of cotton-cloth yearly, besides having many 
other factories, employing 27,000 operatives in all. 

Lawrence, farther down the Merrimac, has many great 
cotton and woolen mills, and is one of the handsomest 




FITCHBURG : WALLACE LIBRARY. 



374 




A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

of manufacturing cities. Haverhill, Whittier's birth- 
place, is at the head of tide on the Merrimac, and has 
27,412 inhabitants, and 7, 000 persons in its shoe-factories. 
Taunton, on Taunton River, manufactures tacks, cotton 
goods, machinery and Reed & Barton's silverware. 

Fall River, near Narragansett Bay, in the southeast, 
has $40,000,000 worth of immense cotton-factories, 
drawn up like platoons in a marching regiment, along 
the stream falling from the Watuppa Ponds. The city 
^^^^^^^^^^^^j hall is a handsome building, of which Wm. R. Walker 
' ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ "i was the architect. New Bedford, on Buzzards Bay, the 
BRIGHTON : THE ELLEN M. GiFFORD HOME leading port of thc world in the whale-fisheries, has cot- 

FOR CATS AND DOGS. , ?,, , ,. -r i r , • • i , • 

ton mills and many diversified manufacturing industries. 

Worcester, nestling among the hills along the Blackstone River, is the second city in 
Massachusetts, with many manufactures and converging railroads, and unusual beauty of 
streets and public buildings. It was founded in 1669. Fitchburg (22,037 inhabitants), 
thrives on manufactures, along the Nashua River. Springfield is a pleasant city, founded 
in 1636, on the Connecticut River, and with admirable public buildings and churches, and 
the great United-States Armory. Chicopee (14,050) manufactures cotton goods, bronzes 
and artillery. Holyoke, with the great water-power of Hadley Falls, on the Connecticut 
River, is the foremost paper-making city in the world, and has other profitable industries. 
Northampton (14,990) was founded in 1653, in one of . i " . themost beau- 

tiful situations imaginable, on the meadows near the .-■•"'2s.--.'' -•• Connecticut 

River, near Mt. Tom and Mt. Holyoke, and the his- 
toric hamlets of Hadley, Hatfield and Deerfield, buried 
in immemorial elms. Pittsfield (17,281 inhabitants) 
is 1,000 feet above the sea, surrounded by the beauti- 
ful hills and lakes of Berkshire, and with a marbk 
court-house and an environment of pleasant villas. 
North Adams (16,074), near the Hoosac Tunnel, in 
northern Berkshire, has cotton and woolen mills. 

Massachusetts has 28 cities and nine towns, each with above 10,000 inhabitants, and 66 
other towns, each of above 4,000 inhabitants. The remaining 248 towns are smaller, and 
95 of them have fewer than 1,000 inhabitants each. 

The Hotel Vendome of Boston is a magnificent marble structure, amid the finest public 
buildings and churches and the most aristocratic dwellings of the Puritan City. It is in 
the centre of the Back-Bay District ; and unexcelled in architectural picturesqueness, inte- 
rior beauty, and scientific adaptation for comfort and convenience. Many well-known and 
wealthy families dwell here permanently ; and it is noted for the high order of its transient 




THE MALDEN LIBRARY. 



patronage. Among 
and other hardly 
feet of frontatie, and 
















BOSTON ; HOTEL VENDOME, ON COMMONWEALTH AVENUE. 



guests have been Presidents Cleveland and Harrison, 
distinguished personages. The Vendome has 365 
interior made comfortable by all the improvements 
of modern times, and strictly 
fire-proof. This immense edi- 
fice is one of the largest and 
most costly of the new hotels 
of America, and contains more 
than 400 rooms. Frescoes, 
cathedral glass, carved mahog- 
any, rich tiling, and other ad- 
juncts give a dainty aesthetic air 
to the house ; and the health of 




THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



375 




BOSTON : FIRST SPIRITUAL TEMPLE. 



its occupants is ensured by the most modern appli- 
ances for heating, lighting and ventilating. The 
location is unsurpassed by any hotel in the country, 
for the beauty of its surroundings. The Vendome 
fronts on Commonwealth Avenue, the patrician 
thoroughfare of New England, 240 feet wide, and 
running from the Public Garden to the new Park. 
The proprietors are C. H. Greenleaf, Amos Barnes, 
and J. W. Dunklee. Col. Greenleaf is also the pro- 
prietor of the famous Profile House, in the White 
Mountains ; and is as well-known to the best class of 
travellers as any hotel-man in the country. 

The Hotel Brunswick of Boston occupies an 
admirable position on the Back Bay, and its im- 
mediate vicinity is the most remarkable locality of its size in the whole of the United 
States. Here in a small triangle can be seen at a glance those noble churches, the Trinity 
Episcopal and the Old South Congregational, and close by, the First Baptist, with the richly 
carved frieze on its tall tower, the Spiritual Temple, the South Congregational, the Central 
Congregational and the First Unitarian, all together a group hardly to be matched anywhere. 
But besides religion, here are located the very highest types of art, science, education, literature 
and whatever else goes to make up 
the perfection of these times, as typ- 
ified in the Boston Public Library, 
the Museum of Fine Arts, the 
Institute of Technology, the So- 
ciety of Natural History, the Har- 
vard Medical School, the Boston 
Athletic Club, the Young Men's 
Christian Association, and other 
notable institutions. These are the 
immediate surroundings of one of 
the best hotels in the world, an im- 
mense seven-story brick-and-sandstone building, richly and comfortably furnished, and 
equipped with all the modern luxuries and conveniences. It was built in 1874-6, at a cost 
of over $1,000,000. Among its guests have been Presidents Grant, Hayes and Arthur, 
the Dukes of Argyll and Sutherland, and countless other per- 
sons of eminence in various fields. The proprietors, Amos 
Barnes and John W. Dunklee, long ago earned their rank as 
the peers of the best of hosts. 

Massachusetts enjoys the distinction of having one of the 
most notable building firms in the world, with a wide-spread 
contracting business, usually upon structures commanding 
national attention. Norcross Bros., of Worcester, enjoy this 
preeminence, and their unrivalled structures (many of them 
designed by the illustrious architect, H. H. Richardson) adorn 
many cities. They generally use Longmeadow brownstonc, 
or Worcester pink granite, and control large quarries of those 
valuable materials. James A. and Orlando W. Norcross, 
young carpenters from Salem, began business together at 
Swampscott, in 1864, and in 1S67 moved to Worcester, ever 
since their headquarters. Among their great works in con- 
BOSTON : THE AMES BUILDING. structlou havc been Trinity Church and the First Spiritual 




BOSTON : HOTEL BRUNSWICK, TRINITY-CHURCH CORNER. 




376 



KING '.9 HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED ST A TES. 




iisii'Mv 



BOSTON : 
MASSACHUSETTS CHARITABLE MECHANIC ASSOCIATION. 



Temple, the High School and the Algonquin Club-huusc, the 
Ames, Whittier, Andrew and Converse dwellings, and the 
Ames and P'isk buildings, in Boston ; the Har- 
vard Law School, Gymnasium and Sever Hall, 
in Cambridge ; the libraries at North Easton, 
Woburn, Maiden, Quincy and New Orleans ; 
the Union League Club-house, at New York ; 
the Albany City Hall, Pittsburgh Court House, 
Cincinnati Chamber of Commerce, Marshall 
Field wholesale building (at Chicago), and many 
vast and imposing edifices at St. Louis and 
Omaha and other distant cities, besides a num- 
ber of beautiful railway stations and other structures for the use of the people. 

Finances and Banking. — The State debt is about $28,000,000, with cash and funds 
on hand amounting to $34,000,000, showing net cash assets of nearly .$6,000,000. The 
debt is at five per cent, interest ; and is held to be as good as gold, on the European 
exchanges. The net debts of the counties amount to $3,700,000 ; those of the municipal- 
ities, to $57,500,000. Taxation is steadily decreasing, and amounts to about $14.75 "" 
$1,000. The National banks number 260, with a capital 
of $97,ooo,.ooo, $167,000,000 in deposits, $29,000,000 in 
bonds, $16,000,000 in circulation, and $30,000,000 in bank 
surplus. There are also 18 trust-companies, with $8,000,000 
in capital, and $85,000,000 in assets. The first bank in 
America was established in Boston, in 1686, and the second 
one arose in the same city in 1714. The clearing-house busi- 
ness of Boston amounts to $5,000,000,000 a year, and is ex- 
ceeded only by that of New York. 

The Merchants' National Bank, of Boston, began in 1831 
as the Merchants' Bank, with a capital of $500,000, increased 
later to $4,000,000. It has never omitted to pay semi-annual 
dividends, averaging more than six per cent, a year. For 
nearly 50 years the presidency was held with signal ability by 
Franklin Haven, and from him it passed to his son, Franklin Haven, Jr., for some years 
Assistant Treasurer of the United States. The bank stands on State Street, on the site of 
the Provincial Custom House and the old Bank of the United States, and close to the scene 
of the Boston Massacre of 1770. It occupies one of the most valuable pieces of land in 
the city, and the building is a well-known landmark. In 1864 it be- 
came a National bank, with a capital of $3,000,000, then and ever 
since the largest capital of any New-England bank. It also has a 
phenomenal surplus, amounting to $1,500,000. It has always been 
a depository of public moneys, and its deposits are large, and its 
depositors numerous. It has at all times liberally afforded to the 
community all the facilities in its power, for advancing industrial 
pursuits and internal trade and commerce. 

Kidder, Pcabody & Company stand at the head of the private 
banking-houses of New England, and have an immense business in 
investment securities, besides buying and selling foreign exchange, 
and issuing mercantile and travellers' letters of credit available in 
all parts of the world. About the year 1863 this house came into 
existence, as successor of John E. Thayer & Brother. They repre- 
sent the great London house of Baring Brothers in this country, 
and include a Baring among their partners. The banking-house 




BOSTON : 
MERCHANTS' NATIONAL BANK. 




BOSTON : 
KIDDER, PEABODY & CO. 




AMES FREE LIBRARY. 



THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 

of Kidder, Peabody & Co., with entrance at 113 Devon- 
sliire Street, immediately opposite the I'ost-Officc, can- 
not be seen from the street ; but is the largest and best 
appointed banking-house in the city of Boston. 

Massachusetts has 180 savings-banks, with assets of 
!|!400,ooo,ooo; 108 co-operative banks, with $12,000,- 
000 ; and two mortgage-loan companies. The savings- 
jjanks have 1,000,000 accounts. Of their assets, $144, - 
000,000 is in loans on real estate, $43,000,000 in the 
public funds, $28,000,000 in bank stock, and $34,000,- 
000 in railroad bonds. The State exercises a careful 
supervision over the savings-banks, and restricts their investments by sagacious laws. The 
deposits exceed those of every other State, except New York, and are larger than those of 
Great Britain. The Provident Institution for Savings, in the Town of Boston, the first 
savings-bank in America, dates from 1816, 

Insurance, now so vast an element in American life, began in Boston in 1728, when the Sun 
Fire Oftice was opened, as "an assurance office for houses and household goods from loss 
and damage by fire in any part of the Province." The fire-insurance written during a year 
here exceeds $800,000,000 ; and the marine insurance is about $250,000,000. Careful investi- 
gation into the causes of fires, commanded by the General 
Court in 1888, has caused a marked decrease in incendiarism. 
Some of the most important of the insurance companies 
are those having their headquarters in the smaller cities of 
New England. The Springfield Fire & Marine Insurance 
Company, of Springfield, incorporated in 1S49, '^^^ opened 
in 1851, is one of the strongest and most enterprising of these 
institutions, and has numerous agencies throughout the 
Union. The capital is $1,500,000, and the assets are over 
$3,500,000, making a surplus as regards policy-holders of 
over $2,000,000, and a surplus above all liabilities of $675,000. The losses which have 
befallen the insurers in this company have been met with ready money, as when $525,000 
were paid after the Chicago fire, and $250,000 after the Boston fire. The officers are 
among the leading men in Western Massachusetts, and their best talents are devoted to the 
work. The Springfield is by far the largest fire-insurance company in Massachusetts, hav- 
ing the greatest capital, and the greatest surplus, and doing many times the largest business. 
The immense development of the fire-insurance business, and the momentous interests in- 
volved, have given rise to a number of active and versatile insurance agents, preeminent 
among whom is John C. Paige, of Boston. He was a skillful 
and experienced underwriter, when he founded a business in Bos- 
ton, in 1874, which has grown ever since, until now it is the 
largest of the kind in the United States. He has the American 
management of the City of London and Imperial Fire of Lon- 
don, and also represents the Fire Association of Philadelphia, 
the Niagara of New York, the Orient of Hartford (Conn.), the 
Michigan of Detroit, and Mechanics of Philadelphia: and also 
does a very large insurance brokerage business, caring for the 
entire insurance of many of the foremost firms and corporations 
in New England. Mr. Paige has a large and commodious build- 
ing at 20 Kilby Street, opposite the Stock Exchange, in the finan- 
cial quarter of Boston. This he occupies entire, in all its 
six floors ; and nearly a hundred clerks are employed in this 

buildmg. BOSTON ; JOHN C. PAIGE. 




SPRINGflELD ; SPRINGFIELD FIRE AND 
MASINE I SURANCE COMPANY. 





378 AVNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Manufactures are the chief source of the wealth of Massachusetts. They are of the 
most varied character, employing investments of $500,000,000, with 24,000 firms and cor- 
porations, and 420,000 operatives. They use .$400,000,000 worth of materials yearly, and 
pay $150,000,000 in wages; the value of the goods made being $675,000,000. A few of 
the most interesting of these will be spoken of in the subsequent paragraphs. The Massa- 
chusetts Bureau of Statistics of Labor was the first in America (founded in 1869), and is 
still the most efficient, its reports having a world-wide reputation, and affording authorita- 
tive figures on many interesting subjects connected with industrial development. 

Clinton makes carpets in great quantities ; Westfield, whips ; Attleborough, jewelry ; 
Brockton, shoes ; Wakefield, rattan goods ; Gardner, chairs ; and Amesbury and Merrimac, 
carriages. The silk-mills of Belding Bros. & Co., at Northampton, form one of the great 
system of works belonging to that corporation, which operates other mills at Rockville, 
Conn. ; Belding, Mich. ; San Francisco, and in Canada. 

Wire-drawing, as an American industry, began in the Plymouth colony, in 1666, ten 
years before King Philip's War, when the legislature reported "being desirous to encourage 
all persons among us in manuall arts and trade of publicque utilitye, and being informed 

that there are 
in this towne a 
sett of tooles for 
wyer - drawing, 
and that there 
be some in this 
[>lace that are 
able and skill- 
ful in that im- 
ploy, the im- 

proovement whereof would be of great use in sundry respects, this court does therefore 
order the Treasurer of the county to disburse out of the public treasury such a sume of 
money as will be necessary for the purchase of the said instruments and tooles, not exceeding 
^15 ; and the Treasurer and Major-General Leverett are appointed and empowered to dis- 
pose of the said instruments so as may best further the ends proposed." 

The manufactm-e of iron and steel wire in Massachusetts shows a yearly output of 
$8,000,000. The foremost house, not only in America, but in the whole world, is the 
Washburn & Moen Manufacturing Company, founded in 1 83 1, at Worcester, by Ichabod 
Washburn, and incorporated in 1868. They employ 4,000 operatives, in very extensive and 
varied methods of wire-working, including wire rods, telegraph and telephone wire, 
material for wire cloth, bale ties, barbed-wire for fences, screws, card wire, and many other 
lines of manufacture. The works cover twelve acres of floor-space, with many substantial 
brick buildings, admirably appointed for their purpose. The North Works occupy ten 
acres of ground, and the South Works include 30 acres; and the company also has 

warehouses . _ -^ ^c--^- "—r^— -— . 

and offices at 

New York, 

Chicago, 

Philadelphi a 

and San 

Francisco. 

The product 

includes 150 

varieties o f 

wire, and articles made of iron, steel, and copper wire, and the uniform high quality of 

these goods gives this house its commanding position. 



WORCESTER : WASHBURN &. MOEN MANUFACTURING CO. 




WORCESTER • WASHBURN & MOEN MANUFACTURINlj CO. 



THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



379 




^^it^^^v- -- ^l,.„..ail^gas^-^^-^^^^jfa 



■jS^- 



MORTH EASTON : OLIVER AMES <S. SONS. 



The shovel-making in- 
dustry of the Oliver Ames 
& Sons corporation, at 
North Easton, the largest 
shovel works in the world, 
began in the year 1776, 
when Capt. John Ames, 
the Bridgewater black- 
smith, began to forge 
cumbrous hand-shaped shovels at his little shop, in West Bridgewater. In 1803 his son, 
Oliver Ames, founded the factory at North Easton, which is now run by his descendants. 
His sons, Oakes Ames and Oliver Ames, were well-known in the political world and as 
promoters of the Union Pacific Railway. The business is now owned by Oakes A. Ames 
and Oliver Ames (recently governor of Massachusetts), sons of Oakes, and by Frederick 
L. Ames, son of Oliver Ames, Junior, the second of the name. The hammer shops are at 
Easton, West Bridgewater (on the site of the original shop of Capt. John Ames, which 
has always remained in the family), South Braintree, and Canton ; and thence the moulds 
pass to North Easton to be finished, polished, and made re dy for market. Of shovels and 
spades 860 varieties are sent all over America and the ..v'ilized world, nearly 2,000,000 
being turned out. every year. These articles have received gold medals at Melbournr -ind 
Sydney, Paris and Santiago. The village of North Easton, which j grown up arouna the 
shovel-works, is beautified and guarded by the Ameses with fraternal interest, and they 
have adorned its streets with a town hall and library and other noble buildings, designed 
by H. H. Richardson, and constructed of fine masonry. 

That electricity has become a powerful element in the production of artificial light and 
the transmission of power is attested by the cities whose streets are illuminated by electric 
lamps, and where the electric current has displaced animal power for street-car propulsion, 
and the innumerable installations where electricity is used for lighting and various forms of 
power transmission. The apparatus in the larger part of these plants is manufactured by 
the Thomson-Houston Electric Company, which has its principal office in Boston, and 
branch offices in important cities all over the country. This is the only electric company 
prepared to furnish complete systems of arc lighting, direct and alternate current incandes- 
cent lighting, and the transmission of power for electric street-railway and stationary work. 
The Thomson-Houston Electric Company 
was organized at New Britain (Conn.), in 
1880; and remained there until 1883, when 
the business was moved to Lynn. From thai 
time until the present the capacity of the 
works has been constantly increased, until 
they are to-day the largest in the world de- 
voted exclusively to the manufacture of elec- 
trical apparatus. Prof. Thomson, who, with 
Prof. Houston of Philadelphia, designed the 
arc dynamo which has met with such general 
adoption, still retains the scientific supervision of the work of designing and manufactur- 
ing new apparatus. That the company's systems are in extended use is evidenced by the 
fact that there were in use January i, 1891, in the United States alone, more than 80,000 
arc and 500,000 incandescent lamps of Thomson-Houston manufacture. 

The Thomson-Houston Motor Company has made the application of electrical power 
transmission a specialty ; and the practical results have demonstrated the almost unlimited 
variety of uses to which the transmission of power by electricity may be applied. That 
the steam engine, with its accompanying annoyances, may be- replaced by quiet-running 




THOMSON-HOUSTON ELECTRIC CO. 
THOMSON-HOUSTON MOTOR CO. 



38o 



KVXG'S JIAXDBOOK OF THE UNITED S7\4TES. 



electric luolors, which arc free from all lUuii^rer, compact ami reliable, added to the actual 
saving in expense which is secured by such a change, is a fact that has been clearly demon- 
strated ; and the constantly increasing demand for electrical power to do all kinds of work 
shows that the electric motor has obtained a permanent position in the field of power trans- 
mission. There are thousands of Thomson-Houston motors in printing-offices, machine- 
sho'ps, and shoe-factories. Electric tramways for transportation of coal, raw materials, 
and manufactured products of mills and manufactories have become one of the standard 
demands. The Thomson-Houston motor is the only one that has been successfully applied 
to work of this nature. The same statement holds for the application of electric power to 
the operation of drawbridges ; and although electricity has been used for this purpose but 
a short time, the favorable attention of engineers and bridge-builders has been excited by 
the plants now in operation. A still more recent application of electrical power is the 
electric elevator. That this method of furnishing power for elevators is economical, safe. 
and reliable is being realized more and more, and there has been a constantly growing 
demand for plants of this description. The company is prepared also to furnish complete 

electric hoists and travelling cranes. 



fo 



WALTHAM 




'"•j'JM 



AMERICAN WALTHAM WATCH CO. 



which for facility and economy in 
doing heavy work cannot be sur- 
passed. 

The largest watch-factory in the 
world, and the oldest in the United 
States, is at the ideal little city of 
Waltham, where the beautiful 
Charles River emerges from the 
hill country of Massachusetts, a 
few miles fro^n Boston. These great works of the American Waltham Watch Company 
abound in wings, towers, courts, and offices, and imposing architecture, and their surround- 
ings are decorated with trees, lawns and flowers. The company employs i,6oo men and 
1, 200 women, all but 120 of them being Americans, and the average age being 32 years. 
The product of these works has passed 5,000,000 fine watches, and its daily product is 
2,000. Fully 3,700 operations are necessary to make a stem-winding watch; and all these 
are performed by the most marvellous machinery, guided by intelligent, skilful and apt 
employes, many of whom are stockholders in the company. The American Waltham 
watches are celebrated all over the world for their accuracy and durability, and have added 
much glory to the acknowledged supremacy of American ingenuity. The capital stock of 
the company is ^3,000,000, and there is a large surplus. Its main financial office is in 
Boston, with sales-rooms in New York, Chicago, Boston, Montreal, and London. 

The first Britannia articles made in America were turned out at Taunton, in 1824; and 
six years later was built the brick factory which after three-score years still forms a part of 
Reed & Barton's plant, which is now enormous, substantial, and picturesque. The works 
cover ten acres, and have six acres of flooring in their 16 brick buildings, where the com- 
pany employs 700 men, including many of the most skilful metal-workers in the world. 
Britannia is now but a small product, having 
been almost wholly superseded by the high 
est grades of gold and silver electro-plate- 1 
ware, of rare artistic designs and manifold 
descriptions. In 18S9 Reed & Barton began 
the manufacture of sterling silver ware. Th>. 
various useful and ornamental articles madi. 
here are sold in all parts of Europe and Aus 
tralia, as well as North and South America, 
and compete with the highest grades of an) 1 lld a lakton 




THE STATE OE MASSACHUSETTS. 



381 



r-^lur. 7PT5^Sp'-'*H:r J .,L ' , "lis— 



:^ 



SPRINGFIELD ; SMITh 



producers, the stamp "Reed & Barton" being 
i^enerally recognized by the trade and connois- 
seurs as sufficient guaranty of superb quality. 

Smitli & Wesson founded their great arms- 
making business in Springfield in 1857, with 75 
workmen, and developed it efficiently and rap- 
idly, until it now employs from 400 to 700 skilled 
workmen, and turns out 90,000 revolvers yearly. 
The factory is equipped with many ingenious and 
unusual patented devices, which have been ac- 
quired by the company. Unhappy America used the entire product of this establishment 
until 1S67. Since then, vast numbers of revolvers have been sent hence to Japan, China, 
Chili, Peru, Brazil, Cuba, Mexico, Turkey, England, and all Europe. The Russian Gov- 
ernment has bought 150,000 of them. The parts of these weapons are interchangeable, of 
the best wrought-steel, and rigidly inspected. The points specially in favor of the Smith 
& Wesson revolvers are their safety, force, excellence of material, and simplicity and con- 
venience in loading. The latest invention made here is a new model revolver, provided 
with a safety device, which absolutely prevents accidental discharge of the arm. 

The Wason Car-Manufacturing Co., at Brightwood (a suburb of Springfield), was found- 
ed by Thomas W^. and Charles Wason, in 1845. The little shed then used has grown into a 
vast establishment, with six acres of flooring, and sixteen acres of ground, and employing 
400 workmen, on the average. Lossing's superb volume. The American Centenary, calls 

J. _ ____ ^, .. this "the most extensive car-works in America." 

The product of a single year has exceeded $1,500,- 
000, and the cars made here are now running on 
every continent, in the valley of the Nile and over 
the Andes of Chili, as well as along our great 
American lines. A single contract with the Cen- 
tral Pacific exceeded $1,700,000; and one with 
the Central Railroad of New Jersey reached 
''^' . ^1,500,000. Every detail of this peculiar and 

interesting business is carried out with scrupulous 
care at the Wason works. The Royal carriages for Portugal and Egypt were triumphs of 
art turned out here ; and many other sumptuous cars now running on distant roads bear 
witness to the genius of the Wason mechanics. 

The late B. F. Sturtevant, a native of Maine, with no other possessions than a knowl- 
edge of the shoemaker's trade, an indomitable will, and marvellous ingenuity, first sought 
his fortune in Boston in i860. Noticing that the leather dust and clippings from the shoe- 
buffing machines then in use were exceedingly annoying, he invented a blower to draw them 
away. Experiment showed these fans to be equally well adapted for removing all kinds of 
light refuse, for blowing forge and cupola fires, and for the ventilation of buildings. By 
untiring experiment the fan-blower was brought up to its present high standard of perfec- 
tion, and its various applications vastly increased. The combination of the fan-blower 
and steam-heater in the Sturtevant Steam Hot-Blast 
Apparatus marks an epoch in the method of heating 
and ventilating buildings, and also in the drying of 
lumber, cotton, wool, fabrics, pottery, and other 
articles. It furnishes warm, pure air, is positive in 
its action, and removes all danger from fire and leak- 
age. In 1878 an extensive brick manufactory, hav- 
ing a floor space of over five acres, was erected in 
the Jamaica-Plain District of Boston, where 400 boston b. f. sTUKitvANT 




382 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 







Jt^ 



men are now employed. It is by 
far the largest blower manufactory 
in the world. Business is now car- 
ried on under the title of the B. F. 
Sturtevant Company, with branch 
houses in New York, Boston, Chi- 
cago, and London. 

The Boston Belting Company is 
the original manufacturer of vulcan- 
ized rubber goods, and has a world- 
BOSTON Croxbury) : BOSTON BELTING CO. ^jjg rcputation for the excellence 

of its manufactures. It was established in 1828, in Roxbury (now a part of Boston), where 
the works are still located. The works are the largest in the world devoted to the manu- 
facture of mechanical rubber goods, and occupy more than two acres of ground, mostly 
covered with substantial four-story buildings. The machinery, which is of the most pow- 
erful and improved kind used in this manufacture, is operated by several large steam-engines. 
Employment is given to 450 operatives, and more than 2,000 tons of pure rubber and cot- 
ton-duck and cloth are used yearly, in the manufacture of a superior quality of rubber belting 
for transmitting power to all kinds of machinery. Rubber hose for conducting water, steam 
and air; rubber packing for packing water, steam and air joints; rubber valves for use in 
connection with stationary and marine engines, steam pumps and similar mechanisms ; rub- 
ber blankets for newspaper, book, litho- 
graph, and other printing presses, and cal- 
ico, satinet, and wall-paper printing ma- 
chines ; rubber-covered rollers for use in 
cotton, woolen, and paper mills, print and 
dye works, and bleacheries ; rubber deckle- 
straps used on paper-making machines ; 
rubber suction hose for fire-engines and for 
marine and mining, and other purposes ; 
rubber gaskets, springs, tubing, and a 
great variety of other articles. The daily 
output of the works is ten tons of manufactured goods, which are distributed over the civil- 
ized world. The capital is $700,000, with a large surplus. The company has stores in 
Boston and New York, and agencies in the leading cities of the United States and Europe. 
The manufacturing agent and general manager, James Bennett Forsyth, has been with the 
company more than a third of a century, and is the patentee of most of the useful inven- 
tions which have so greatly aided in building up its business. 

Rubber and elastic goods are made by 27 Massachusetts companies, to the yearly value 
of over $7,000,000, from the gum obtained from the creamy juices of certain Brazilian 
and Asiatic trees. The first rubber shoes in the civilized world were a single pair, brought 

by a sailor from Para to Boston, in 1S25; and 
<• during the next ten years a small trade arose, 

which attained vast proportions when Hay- 
ward and Goodyear, two New-England men, 
more nearly perfected the processes of manu- 
facture. The largest concern of the kind in 
the world is the Boston Rubber-Shoe Com- 
pany, founded in 1853, and mainly built up by 
its treasurer and general manager, Elisha S. 
•"^^'- n.„;,' — ^^ - '-"t^tr-'^ ■ "" Converse, until it employs 2, 800 operatives, and 

MALDEN : boston" ru-bber-Ihoe CO. ^an make 45,000 pairs of shoes daily. The 




MELROSE : BOSTON RUBBER-SHOE CO. 




THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 383 

great warehouse and offices are in Boston, and the two factories are five miles distant, and a 
mile apart — No. i occupying the site of the little wooden factory originally used, in Maiden, 
and No. 2 being in Melrose, on the edge of the Middlesex Fells. The shoes made here are 
in many scores of varieties, from women's light Broadway slippers and button gaiters up to 
the ponderous "overs" worn by lumbermen in the Maine and Canadian forests, and the 
heavy hip-boots for Gloucester and Pacific-coast fishermen and Chesapeake gunners. 

The ancient gibe that the only natural products of Massachusetts are granite and ice 
has no foundation in fact, now that her farms yield nearly $50,000,000 a year. But even 
this output fails to feed the hungry, hearty and prosperous millions of people between the 
yellow sands of Cape Cod and the blue hills of Berkshire, and therefore great meat-pack- 
ing houses have risen, for handling incoming Western live-stock from the prairie States. 
There are only two larger pork-packing houses 
than that of John P. Squire & Co., at East Cam 
bridge. Twenty-one acres are required for then 
immense brick buildings and adjuncts ; over a thou 
sand persons are in their employ ; and their yearh 
business exceeds sixteen million dollars. Then 
meats are used in every market from Maine to 
Texas, and in nearly every meat-consuming coun 
try in Europe. The business was established b) 
[ohn P. Squire in 1842; and he and his two sons, 
FrankO. and Fred F. Squire now comprise the firm east Cambridge john p squire & co 

The chocolate mill built on the Neponset River, m Dorchester, m 1765, is said to have 
been the first factory of the kind established in the British provinces of North America. 
The inception of the enterprise was due to representations made by James Hannan, an Irish 
immigrant, who had learned the "mystery" of chocolate-making in England. Small quan- 
tities of crude cocoa, brought home by Massachusetts sailors, had been roasted and coarsely 
ground before ; but the more delicate and nutritious preparation was undoubtedly first manu- 
factured at the Dorchester mill. The new industry prospered in a small way, and on the death 
of Hannan, in 1780, Dr. James Baker established the house which has continued the busi- 




ness without interruption fiom thit 
interesting fact, and one withDut 
on the spot where such a small tn 
and a quarter ago, there has grown 
lishments in the world, the 
which competes success 
industrial exhibitions of 
is felt in the great com 
prosperity promotes the 
who labor under a tropi 
tion of one of the choicest 
Their various prepara 




DORCHESTER (bOSTOn) 
WALTER BAKER & CO. 



day to this. It is certainly an 

parallel in this country, that 

terprise was started a century 

up one of the greatest estab- 

hiuse of Walter Baker & Co., 

fully for prizes in all the great 

Christendom, whose influence 

mercial centres, and whose 

of hundreds of men 

cal sun in the cultiva- 

fruits of the earth. 

tions from the cocoa 

proval for more than 

edged standard for pu- 

late Mills are massive, 

Neponset River. 

leading house beintr 



Ifare 



bean have stood the test of public ap 
one hundred years, and are the acknow 
rity and excellence. The Baker Choco- 
modern brick buildings, close to the 

Confectionery is largely manufactured in Massachusetts, the 
Fobes, Hayward & Co., of Boston, one of the largest in America. It began in 1S48, under 
Daniel Fobes's direction; took the present name in i860; and received incorporation 
in 1886. This establishment covers acres of flooring, and has 300 operatives, with a 
great amount of ingenious machinery, made in the building from the company's de- 
signs. The annual product is 6,000,000 pounds of candy, the chief staples being lozenges, 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

M'hich are cut in parts, like crackers ; gum-drops, made from 
a solution of sugar and gum-arabic ; marsh-mallow.s of a supe- 
rior quality ; chocolate confections of many kinds and grades ; 
and "panwork," including candied almonds, cloves, and other 
goodies. No other line of goods is so free from adulterations 
as this, for the main element is the best refined sugar, and the 
purity of all the ingredients is carefully looked after. The 
Fobes, Hayward & Co. goods are thoroughly distributed all 
over the Union, even to Oregon and California. 

In several respects the recognized preeminent house in the 
boot and shoe business of New England is the firm of Wm. 
Claflin, Coburn & Co., one of the oldest houses in the trade 
(if not the oldest). It was founded in 1821, by Lee Claflin, 
BOSTON : FOBES, HAYWARD s. CO. whosc son, Wm. Claflin, now the senior partner, has served 
with honor as member of Congress and Governor of Massachusetts. Their factories are 
located at South Framingham and at Hopkinton, and produce men's and boys' boots and 
shoes, from calf and veal, split and grain leather, in sewed, pegged, and standard screw. 
The Hopkinton works were founded in 1843, i^i conjunc- 
tion with N. P. Coburn (now of Newton), one of the senior 
partners. Another of the partners is James 
A. Woolson (of Cambridge), who has been con- 
nected with the house since boyhood, for over 
40 years. The South-P'ramingham factory is 
run under the style of Gregory & Co., 





BOSTON OFFICE. 



Wm. F. Gregory being one of the junior 
partners, the other being Oliver B. Root 
(both of Framingham). The headcjuar- 
ters of the firm are on the site of Daniel 
Webster's home, on Summer Street, Bos- 
ton, in a spacious and handsome iron 
structure, rebuilt in 1890. 

Another one of the greatest houses in the boot and shoe business is that of Rice & Hutchins, 
which, although founded by W. B. Rice and H. H. Hutchins, in 1866, only a quarter ot a 
century ago, has risen to an unquestioned preeminence in the trade. The firm own and 
operate seven factories at Marlborough, North Easton, and Boston, and at Warren (Maine), 



CLAFLIN, COBURN & CO. 'S FACTORIES. 



where they 
and 



employ 3,000 operatives, making a complete variety of boots 
for men, boys, and youths. Besides their own goods, they 
; I handle various lines of other manufactures. 

The house is reported as worth upwards of a 
million dollars, and does a business exceed- 
™'i $2,000,000 a year, sending their goods to 
all parts of the country, and continually add- 
ing to their resources and trade. The main 
offices and salesrooms of Rice & Hutchins 
are in Boston. 

The textile manufactures of the world 
RICE & HUTCHINS s liavc Ijccu grcatly advanced by the Crompton 

Loom, one of the most l)euclRcnt discoveries of the century. In 1S36, William Crompton, 
a skillful mechanic, weaver and mill-superintendent, migrated from Lancashire in England 
to Massachusetts, where, to meet a demand, he invented the loom which bears his name. 
He patented it in America in 1837, and in England soon afterward ; and in 1840, with the 
aid of this machine, the Middlesex Mills, of Lowell, wove the first fancy cassimeres that 




THE STATE OE MASSACHUSETTS. 



385 




~3E. ' , -jn"! .T' Till'-*'' Si'^i 



*<5f 



WORCESTER : CROMPTON LOOM WORKS. 



had ever been made in the world by 
machinery. George Crompton succeeded 
to his father's business in 1849, and 
made many improvements and modifica- 
tions for weaving ginghams, carpets, rib- 
bons, silks, tapes, and fine woolen cloths. 
After his death, in 1S86, this vast busi- 
ness was incorporated under the name of 
the Crompton Loom Works. The works 
at Worcester occupy extensive and hand- 
some Queen-Anne buildings, and employ 
700 men, and a vast quantity of ingenious 
machinery, making looms for mills all over the Union. They are the largest fancy-loom 
works in America, and their varied products are remarkable for simplicity of construction, 
rapidity and power of action, and ability to produce the choicest weaving effects ; and are 
constantly receiving improvements in mechanism. 

Whitinsville, in the town of Northbridge, possesses the Whitin Machine Works, that 
for over 60 years have been known to manufacturers of cotton goods the world over. This 
vicinity as early as 1 700 was known for its iron-mines, and the public records ever since 
1 727 make frequent reference to iron-works. One third ownership in these was acquired in 
1794 by Paul Whitin, the father of John C. Whitin, to whom is chiefly due the credit of 
the great machine-works. At the iron-works was first made bar and scrap iron, and later 
agricultural implements, including a specialty of the large hoes used by slaves in the South. 
But the machine-shops did not arise from the iron-works, although no doubt the inherited 
interest in iron-working had some influence. The Whitin families had become interested 
in cotton manufacturing, and were among the pioneers in this line in the Blackstone valley. 
Paul Whitin in 1814 became one of the founders and main owners of the Northbridge Cot- 
ton Manufacturing Company, the original mill of which years afterward became the main 
shop of the machine-works. The picking of cotton was a laborious and crude matter, the 
cotton being sent out a bale or part of a bale at a time to families, until John C. Whitin, in 
1S30, created a picker or lapper that effectually did away with hand labor. That useful 
' picker practically gave rise to these cotton-machine factories, which in size of plant, in 
thoroughness of equipment and in value of output of strictly cotton-machinery, surpass all 
others on this continent. The neatness of the extensive factories and the attractiveness 
of their surroundings are especially notable. At these works is made a full line of 
cotton-machinery, including openers, lappers, cards, railway-heads, drawing, ring spinning, 
spoolers, twisters, reels, looms, and other articles. While the Whitins have taken out 
many patents, their remarkable success has been 
attained mainly by the unquestioned superiority of 
their machinery and their recognized business abil- 
ity. The firm for over 30 years was P. Whitin & 
Sons; and the business included the cotton-man- 
ufacturing and the machine-shops. In 1865 John 
C. Whitin alone acquired the machine-works, 
which since 1870 have been owned by the Whitin 
Machine Works, a stock company with a capital 
of $600,000, and whose plant covers over eight 
acres of floor-space. It is run by water power 
from Mumford River, and gives employment in the busy season to one thousand men. 

Among the comfortable domestic appointments of the first colonists were found many 
bits of highly-prized carpet, brought from over the seas. Governor Eaton had plate to the 
v.ilue of ^150, and besides this treasure, tapestry coverings and a "Turkish carpet." The 




WH T N MACH NE WORKS 




LOWELL : LOWELL CARPET CO. 



386 KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 

inextinguishable rage of modern Boston for Ori- 
ental rugs, prayer- mats from Bokhara and Turkestan, 
finely woven Ispahan and Mirzapore carpets, and 
draperies from Constantinople and Kurdistan, has 
thus a warrant of heredity more than two centuries 
old. The Lowell Carpet Company has in the city of 
Lowell the largest carpet-mills in America, and there 
is but one in all Europe as large. This immense 
enterprise dates from 1828. In 1838, E. B. Bigelow was enabled under its auspices to 
complete his great invention of the carpet power-loom which was first successfully put 
in operation at the Lowell works. The growth of this industry has been rapid and solid, 
and since 1880 it has doubled its output. More than 2,000 people are employed, making 
the best quality of Wiltons, Brussels, and Ingrains, which are distributed all over America. 
When in full operation the mill uses 10,000,000 pounds of wool a year, and produces 
upwards of 4,000,000 yards of carpet. The processes of manufacture are exceedingly 
interesting, and the wonderful machinery used in the mill seems possessed of almost human 
intelligence. 

The mills of the Dwight Manufacturing Company are at Chicopee, three miles above 
Springfield, and embrace the Cabot mills, organized in 1832 ; the Perkins Company, in 
1836; and the Dwight Company, in 1841. These mills were consolidated in 1856, under 
the present name, and now have 130,000 spindles, 3,400 looms, and upward of two miles in 

length of floor space. 
f , ^ , ^j^"^" j^: j-^' ^ They form one of the 

■" '^ finest plants in New 

England, and its 
goods have a world- 
wide reputation. Its 
heavy Cabot sheet- 
ings find a market 
in China and Tur- 




DWIGHT COTTON MILLS. 



key, Africa and South America, while its Anchor sheetings, Dwight Stars, and other brands 
— of which a large variety are made — have a leading reputation with the trades. The 
treasurer of the company is J. Howard Nichols, with his office in the Exchange Building, 
Boston; and the selling agents are Minot, Hooper & Co., of Boston and New York. 

The chief corporation in New Bedford is the Wamsutta Mills, one of the largest and 
best-known companies in New England, incorporated in 1846, and now possessed of a cap- 
ital stock of $3,000,000, and a plant worth over $4,000,000, ably directed by Andrew G. 
Pierce, the treasurer. The company has six great mills, of stone and brick, containing 
217,000 spindles and 4,250 looms, and employing 2,500 opei^atives, making eighty varieties 
of fine shirtings and sheetings, cambric muslins, lawns and momie cloth, sateens and cre- 
tonnes, and fine fancy weaves, besides great quantities of fine cotton yarns. When running 
full, the Wamsutta Mills use yearly 25,000 
bales of cotton (much of it l^ to li-nich 
staple, and also the strong "bendeis" 
variety, grown in the bends of the Miss 
issippi River); and make from it 24,000, 
000 yards of cloth, half of which is sent to 
Sayles' Bleachery to be whitened, while the 
rest is sold in the "brown." The standard 
and unvarying excellence of its shirtmgs 
and sheetings has made Wamsutta a house- 
hold word all over the civilized world. 




NEW BEDFORD : WAMSUTTA MILLS. 



THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



387 




MAYNARD : ASSABET 



One of the largest American establish- 
ments for the manufacture of woolen fabrics 
is that of the Assabet Manufacturing Com- 
pany, at Maynard. Nearly every kind and 
quality of woolen fabric is here manufactured; 
and the products of the mills are widely 
known and find a ready market in every State 
in the Union, and in Mexico, South America 
and Europe. The works cover ten acres of 
flooring. The yearly consumption of wool 
is 5,000,000 pounds. The amount of goods 
yearly manufactured is 8,500,000 yards, strictly wool. No cotton is ever used in this 
establishment. The mills have 66 sets of the most improved woolen machinery, and employ 
1,000 persons constantly. In 1845, Amory Maynard and William H. Knight bought the 
water-rights, and the Assabet mills were begun the next year, and opened in 1847, fo^" 
making carpets and carpet-yarns. Knight retired in 1852 ; and Maynard gradually changed 
the machinery, and made blankets and flannels. Steam-power was not introduced until 
1862. The yearly product now reaches over .$2,000,000, in all classes of woolen cloths, 
cassimeres, flannels and other varieties ; and the name of Assabet Mills is a perfect guar- 
antee of high excellence. The present company was organized in 1862, and its officers are 

Charles P. Hemenway, President ; T. Quincy Browne, 
Treasurer ; and Lorenzo Maynard, Agent. 

Another preeminent industry of Massachusetts is 
the manufacture of silk piece goods for tailoring pur- 
poses, in which the William Skinner Manufacturing 
Company stands without a rival in the world, being 
also the foremost house in America for making 
braids for tailors' use. This commanding department 
of the Bay State's industrial development dates its ori- 
gin from 1848, when William Skinner began the man- 
ufacture of sewing silks. The works were at Hayden- 
ville, and suffered total destruction by the fatal bursting 
of the Williamsburg reservoir, in 1874. They were rebuilt at Holyoke, on a larger scale, 
and the company received incorporation in 1889, replacing the title of William Skinner & 
Sons with the present one. All makers of clothing for American men are familiar with the 
fine products of these Holyoke mills, which are mainly wholesaled through the company's 
stores at New York, Boston, and Chicago. 

The manufacture of straw goods for ladies and children was placed on a firm basis in 
1832, by William Knowlton, at West Upton, which had been celebrated even then for nearly 
a score of years for its straw cord, gimps, braids, and bonnets. The works of Wm. 
Knowlton & Sons now cover five acres, and employ 1,500 persons, making straw plaits, 
braids and laces, from all over the world (and prin- 
cipally from Italy, Switzerland, China, and Japan), 
into all manner of articles for feminine head-wear. 
This is the foremost American house in the manu- 
facture of ladies' hats, and is famous for the beauty 
and taste of its designs and the perfection of its 
goods. For three generations, working in straw 
has been the foremost industry of this peaceful vil- 
lage, and the accumulated experience and tact thus 
made hereditary has been augmented by locating 
here many English straw-workers from Luton. The ^vest upton : wm. knowlton & sons. 




HOLYOKE : WM. SKINNER MANUFACTURING CO. 




;88 



AViVG'S HANDBOOK OF TJJE UMTED STATES. 




WORCESTER : T. K. EARLE MANUFACTURING CO. 



founder of the house died in 1886, and the busi- 
ness is carried on by his four sons, in the old 
name. The sales-room of Wm. Knovvlton & 
Sons is at New York. 

The T. K. Earlc Manufacturing Company 
of Worcester was the oldest and largest concern 
in the United States for the manufacture of card 
clothing, and its productions have a reputation 
which is second to none. July i, 1S90, this 
company sold its machinery, patents and stock 
to the American Card Clothing Company of 
Worcester, a corporation formed for the manufacture of card clothing, and which bought 
out all of the important card making concerns in the United States at the same time. The 
American Card Clothing Company has control of all the needle-point grinding patents and 
also of the patent flexifort card cloths. These last-mentioned card-cloths are the best 
backings or foundations for card-teeth yet discovered, being entirely without stretch and of 
practically unbreakable strength, and they are rapidly displacing all other foundations for 
the best card clothing. The patent flexifort consists of straight laid linen warps, which 
cannot stretch, and it is introduced into all kinds of card-cloths. The American Card 
Clothing Company has factories at Worcester, Leicester, Providence, Lowell, Lawrence, 
Walpole, North-Andover Depot, Manchester, and Philadelphia; and has a complete equip- 
ment for its trade, including needle-point and flexifort card-cloth patents, as previously 
mentioned. It is managed by conservative and careful men, who give the business their 
whole attention, and whose practical experience has stood the test of satisfying American 
cotton and woolen manufacturers with first-class 
card clothing for the past fifty years. 

Among the products necessary for the mari- 
time business of New England, cordage holds an 
important place, and its manufacture was one of 
the first industries of the colonists. Fishing anrl 
agriculture were their chief means of support, and 
the need of cordage in fitting out their fishing fleets chelsea : Suffolk cordage go. 

compelled them to make their own ropes. Boston was the centre of this industry, and its 
rope-makers at the beginning of the Revolution were among the most daring in resisting 
the British soldiery. \\\ the rope-walk at the Charlestown Navy-yard is manufactured all 
the cordage required by the Navy Department. In the adjoining city of Chelsea, the Suffolk 
Cordage Company (whose ofiice is in Boston) has an establishment of far greater magni- 
tude, fitted up with all the modern machinery. Their rope-walk is 1,700 feet long; and is 
connected with the main building, 300 feet long by 100 feet wide, and two stories in height, 
in which 500 jenneys are busy spinning yarns for rope-making. This factory stands on a 
tract of 50 acres, connected with the Boston cSc Maine and Boston & Albany Railroad sys- 
tems, thus facilitating the shipment of goods to all parts of America. Within the past ten 

, years there has been a great change in the cordage 

I I industry. Prior to 1880, the product was chiefly 

j ! used for maritime and mechanical purposes, but 

I now a large part is in the shape of binder-twine, 
I 50,000 tons in weight (amounting to over 10,000,- 
oco miles in measurement) of which is used yearly 
I'lr binding wheat. The product of the Suffolk 
Cordage Company varies from this binder-twine, 
about -^^ of an inch in diameter, to immense haw- 
DANVERs ; STATE INSANE A5VLUM. scrs, twclvc to 1 5 iuclics \\\ circumfercncc, and 






"'■ ■■ " '!:"'':::::b::.lf;:: 

— ( 1 "-J "^ 



L-(_ 



HOLYOKE : PARSONS PAPER 00. 



THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 389 

adapted to the severest strain to which ropes 
are applied. 

The wonderful development of Holyoke, 
"The Paper City," from an obscure river- 
side hamlet to a municipality of 36,000 in- 
habitants, making 180 tons of paper daily, 
comes in great part from the faith and enter- 
prise of Joseph C. Parsons, who after 13 
years of paper-making elsewhere, came to 
this place in 1853, and established the first 
mill of the Parsons Paper Company, now one of the preeminent paper-making establish- 
ments of the world, having a plant worth upwards of a million dollars, and a business co- 
extensive with the boundaries of this country. The Parsons mills make the finest grades 
of bond and bank-note paper, Scotch linen ledger, parchment paper, and other varie- 
ties. They have developed, year after year, and erected new buildings, with modern equip- 
ments, to supply the rising demand for exquisite qualities of paper. The Parsons Paper 
Mill No. 2, said to be the best in the world, and with the finest and most improved ma- 
chinery, dates from 1889, and is devoted to the choicest grades of paper and the most in- 
teresting processes of its manufacture. 

The making of paper was one of the earliest industries of Massachusetts, having been 
started in 1730, by Daniel Henchman, an enter- 
prising Boston bookseller. Close by his mill, 
amid the picturesque hills of Milton, dwelt the 
Crane family, whose sons thus early became 
familiar with the mysteries of paper-making. 
In 1799 young Zenas Crane mounted his horse, 
and rode westward, until he found the pure 
and copious waters in the pleasant glens of Dal- 
ton, and in 1801 he founded a little one-vat 
paper-mill, the first mill built in Berkshire 
County, with a capacity of 2,500 sheets a day, and a foice of seven 
operatives. From this germ sprang the 25 great paper-mills of 
Berkshire, with their yearly product of $3,500,000. The factory ..uvtK~^,t^,, 

afterwards famous as the Old Red Mill was built by Carson, Chamberlin cSc Wiswell, in 
1809, and the following year Mr. Crane became a partner and manager, advancing to its 
sole proprietorship in 1822. This mill was burned in 1870, and replaced with the stone 
Pioneer Mill, fitted with the most modern and costly machinery. When Zenas Crane died, 
in 1845, ^■'is business passed into the hands of his sons, Zenas M. and James B. Crane, who 
have given the name of Crane & Co. a world-wide reputation. Crane & Co., in their 
Government Mill, have since 1879 made all the paper for the United-States bonds, checks, 

postal notes, certificates, and National-bank and 
ireasury-notes. The National flag constantly 
Hies over it, and Treasury-Department officials 
are kept on duty there. The Pioneer Mill makes 
parchment ^nd bond papers, and also bank-note 
paper. Crane & Co. manufacture more of the 
money paper on which the world's circulating 
medium is printed than any other firm in America 
or Europe, and supply many foreign govern- 
: nts, like Canada, Mexico, the South-Ameri- 
in republics, Greece and Italy. Zenas M. 
Crane, then senior member of the firm of Crane 




tr^*^ ^^" 








nOi-iOr^E. PnRSO.<S PAPER CO. 



39° 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




& Co., died March I2, 1887, at the age of 72 years. The present members of the firm 
are James B. Crane, Zenas Crane, and W. Murray Crane. 

One of the great mills at Dalton is that of 
Z. & W. M. Crane. This plant is devoted to 
the manufacture of ladies' fine stationery, satin- 
finished, dead-finished. Distaff, Parchment, 
Vellum and other varieties, in delicate tints, 
and of unsurpassed finish and elegance. These 
exquisite papers have triumphantly won the 
supremacy formerly accorded to the best grades 
of foreign paper, and are used by ladies of taste 
and cultivation all over the Union. The mem- 
bers of this firm, Zenas Crane and W. Murray Crane, are also partners in Crane & Co. and 
the Old Berkshire Mills. This great family, which has done for American paper-making 
more than the Montgolfiers did for that of France, has been prominent in public life and in 
the generous endowment of philanthropies. Zenas Crane, the pioneer, was Executive Coun- 
cillor to Gov. Everett ; Zenas M. Crane, to Gov. Andrew ; and Zenas Crane, to Gov. 
Robinson. The present mill of Z. & W. M. Crane was built in 1S77, and is especially 
equipped for producing the finest goods in its line. 

The mountains looking down on Dalton, and the bright Housatonic River rippling past 
its farms and churches, may well feel proud of their little Massachusetts village, whose 
fame in fine paper-making has gone into the ends of the earth, and whose materials will 
be used to pass down written and printed records of this generation to all future genera- 
tions. Here are located the mills of Byron Weston, who makes the best paper in the 
world for records, ledgers, and legal documents. Nearly four tons of this excellent pro- 
duct are manufactured daily, and vast quantities are shipped to the Far West and the 
Pacific Coast, as well as to all the older States. This is the only paper-mill in the world 
devoted exclusively to fine linen ledger and record paper, and only one grade of each, 
and that always the best. Byron Weston learned the art of paper-making at Saugerties 
(N. Y.), and in the mill at Lee (Mass.), and elsewhere. He served as a captain in the 

49th Massachusetts, in Louisiana, and received a wound at 
Port Hudson ; and then returned home, and bought a paper- 
mill at Dalton, where he soon concentrated his energies on 
making document and legal paper, to "defy the tooth of 
time." The plant now comprises two large and elegant 
mills, complete in every respect. Up to 1870 most of the 
paper used for American records and public documents 
came from England, but now only one or two record offi- 
ces use imported paper, the Weston product being much 
better. Over 20 first-class medals have been received for 
superiority and excellence, including the Paris Exposition, 
the Centennial, the Adelaide, the New-Zealand, the 
Franklin Institute at Philadelphia, and the Massachusetts 
Charitable Mechanic Association. Mr. Weston served 
as Lieutenant-Governor of Massachusetts in 1880-83 ; and occupies the beautiful estate of 
Westonholme, at Dalton. 

Some of the largest and most noted paper-mills in the world are found in Massachu- 
setts, the pure water of whose streams is peculiarly adapted to this industry. Among the 
oldest and foremost dealers in paper of every variety, and paper stock, wood pulp, and simi- 
lar staples is the Rice-Kendall Company of Boston, whose trade covers a vast area of the 
United States, and draws its supplies from many sources. Alexander H. Rice became a 
partner in Wilkins, Carter & Co., in 1841., and a few years later joined Charles S. Kendall 




DALTON BYRON WESTON PAPER MILLS 



TI^E STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



391 








BOSTON : RICE-KENDALL CO. 



in a new firm, styled Rice, Kendall & Co., succeeded in 1889, after 
almost half a century's successful career, by a stock company 
styled the Rice-Kendall Company. Mr. Rice has served the people 
for many years, as mayor of Boston, member of Congress, and 
Governor of Massachusetts. As agents of numerous paper-mills, 
this house has sent out hundreds of thousands of tons of paper, in 
bundles and in rolls, to the great daily papers and the leading peri- 
odicals, besides supplying the printers and book-publishers of nearly 
every State with thousands and thousands of reams upon which the 
books of the past half-century have been printed. The Rice-Ken- 
dall Company have their main offices and warehouses in Boston, 
but the greater part of their paper is shipped direct from their 
various mills in New England to their patrons throughout the 
country. 

The Morgan Envelope Company of Springfield was founded in 1864 by Elisha Morgan, 
and incorporated in 1870; and in 1882 erected its handsome factory, 230x55 feet in 
area and six stories high. It is hardly equalled anywhere for its size, perfect equipment, 
large capacity, and elegant offices. There are 250 operatives, and the capacity of the works 
is 2,500,000 envelopes a day. The company had the original 
contract for making United-States postal cards, and finished 
and delivered 51,000,000 in 90 days. The various grades of 
papeteries manufactured here are sold in great quantities all over 
the country, being distinguished for originality of designs and 
uniform excellence of finish. This company is also the largest 
manufacturer of toilet papers in the world, and has a score of 
patents therefor. The Morgan and Plympton companies have 
for 16 years supplied the Post-Office Department with all its 
stamped envelopes and wrappers, and the envelopes used in 
official business, amounting to 600,000,000 during the year 1890. 
One of the half-century industrial organizations of Massa- 
chusetts is the Dennison Manufacturing Company, whose works 
at Roxbury and elsewhere employ more than 1,500 hands. 
The business of making paper boxes for jewelers was established in 1839, by A. L. Den- 
nison, a Boston jeweler, who had the boxes made by hand in his father's dwelling-house 
at Brunswick, Maine. This A. L. Dennison afterward invented the American watch. 
About the year 1844, his brother, E. W. Dennison, came to Boston, and became agent for 
the box business, which he pushed with great energy, adding thereto the manufacture of 
jewelers' cards, tags, and other specialties. Now, the great Roxbury and Brunswick fac- 
tories are filled with ingenious machinery, and the product comprises millions of boxes, big 
and little, morocco or plush, wood or paper, for jewels or humbler uses ; shipping and 
merchandise tags, of all sizes ; tissue-papers of all colors ; jewelers' and absorbent cotton ; 
gummed labels and gummed paper ; 
sealing wax ; and a vast variety of sta- 
tioners', apothecaries', jewelers', and 
household sundries. One product of 
this house, known in every hamlet in 
the country, and almost the world over, 
is the " Dennison Tag. " This house was 
and is the original and chief producer of 
the tags so generally used. The plants 
of this great corporation are now valued 
at upwards of $1,000,000, and the pro- 




SPRINGFIELD : 
MORGAN ENVELOPE CO. 




BOSTON (ROXBURY) : DENNISON MANUFACTURING CO. 



592 



a'/jVG's handbook of the united states. 




SOUTH BOtiTON \ D BOSTON HIGHLANDt. 
THE WHITTIER MACHINE COMPANY. 



ducts of their various factories are sold at wholesale and retail in large and complete stores, 
established and conducted by themselves, in Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, 
Cincinnati, and St. Louis. 

Although hoisting-machinery has been in common use during the last century, the 
high speed passenger-elevator is of a comparatively recent 
1 ite, and is the result of the demand for rapid transit to 
the upper stories of the lofty buildings which are con- 
stiucted to give increased store and office room in the 
centres of our large cities. Here the land is of 
great and increasing cost, but. it would be of far 
less value were it not for the elevator service, which 
lands the passenger at the desired point without 
fatigue or loss of time. Among the earliest and 
most prominent manufacturers of passenger and 
freight elevators the Whittier Machine Company of 
Boston holds an important and honorable position, 
not only as having been one of the pioneers in the business, but as having kept in the front 
rank of progress in the design and construction of the safest and most efficient forms of 
apparatus. The foundation of their business was laid in 1839, when Campbell, Whittier 
& Co. began their iron-working industry in Roxbury. The company now has two large 
plants, one at Roxbury and one at South Boston, employing 500 men. In addition to the 
elevator branch of their business, they manufacture steam-boilers, boiler-plate work, and 
general machinery, and the "Gaunt Evaporators," for use on sugar-plantations and in pulp- 
mills, and wherever an effective method of economically evaporating large quantities of 
liquid is desired. The Whittier elevators are used in Boston in the new Exchange Build- 
ing, the Massachusetts-Hospital Life Building, on State Street, the Adams Building, on 
Court Street, the American Bell Telephone Building, on Milk Street, and other structures ; 
in New York, in Tiffany's, on Union Square, the Hemenway Estate, on Broadway, and the 
Welles Building, on Broadway; in Philadelphia, by William G. Warden and others; in 
Baltimore, by the Chesapeake & Potomac Telephone and Telegraph Company ; in Wash- 
ington, in the Pension Building, Gen. Henry Strong's building, and the Pacific Building; 
in the De Soto Hotel, at Savannah; the Endicott Building, at St. Paul (Minn.); the Kit- 
tredge Building, at Denver (Col.); and in a great number of other structures erected by the 
largest capitalists and the first architects of the country. 

The origin of the business of the Walworth Manufacturing Company was due to the 
conviction that in this climate there was need of a better method of warming and ventilat-, 
ing buildings, involving the use and construction of suitable steam and hot-water apparatus. 
This house originated the method of warming buildings by the use of wrought-iron tubes, 
the manufacture and use of malleable-iron steam and gas fittings, cast-iron steam fittings, 
globe valves, Walworth tapping machines, Walworth die-plates, Stillson wrenches, Stan- 
wood pipe-cutters, Walworth sprinkler heads, and cylindrical horizontal tubular boilers ; 
and originally introduced in this country the system of mechanical ventilation by the use of 
fans. James J. Walworth and Joseph Nason, 
comprising the firm of Walworth & Nason, were 
the founders of steam-fitting by the modern 
methods, and the great variety of kindred uses of 
steam in the arts and manufacturing industries, 
not only in this country but in the world. This 
firm commenced business in New York in 184 1, 
and a year later in Boston. During the first four 
years there was no other person or firm in this 
business in the world. In Boston the successors south boston : walworth manufacturing go. 




THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



393 




CAMBRIDGE : THE GEORGE F. BLAKE M'F'G CO. 



of Walworth & Nason have been J. J. Walworth & Co. until 1871, and the present cor- 
poration since that date. J. J. Walworth, who established the business, is the oldest man 
in the business, and he and his brother, C. C. Walworth, the vice-president and general 
manager, are still in vigorous health, and at the head of the corporation. The Walworth 
valves and tools find a ready sale, not only in this country but in England, Germany and 
other parts of Europe, and also in Mexico, South America, and Australia. The Walworth 
plant at South IBoston covers ten acres, with iron and brass foundries, machine and forge 
shops, and wharves on tide-water, and employs 600 men, besides 150 in the warehouse, 
salesrooms and offices in Boston. 

Water-works for the public service are in use in scores of Massachusetts cities and 
towns, greatly to the comfort of the people. In 
1800 there were but eight public water- works in 
the Union, including those at Salem (founded in 
1796), Worcester (1798), and Peabody (1799). 
At present, nearly 2,000 cities and towns in Amer- 
ica have public water-works. The water-supply 
of Boston is drawn from Lake Cochituate, the 
Sudbury River, and Mystic Lake. The works 
were begun in 1845, ^"^^ have cost upwards of 
$20,000,000. They supply upwards of 40,000,000 
gallons daily. A remarkable feature of the aqueduct is the famous Echo Bridge, built in 
1876-7, at Newton Upper Falls, where the limpid stream is carried across Charles River 
on a noble granite structure, 500 feet long. Its main arch is 130 feet in span, 51 feet 
above the river. There is but one larger arch in America. One of the chief sources of 
supply for the water-works machinery thus called into service is the George F. Blake Manu- 
facturing Company of Boston, employing 650 operatives in making a great variety of 
ingenious and powerful pumps, compound, high-pressure, vertical, horizontal, and other 
forms, calculated for every variety of demand. A book is published by the company, with 
pictures of these beneficent engines, and elementary features of general practice in water- 
works. Here also are made the well-known Blake steam-pumps, in scores of forms, for 
brewers, distillers, bleachers, soap-makers, tanners, oil-refiners, wreckers, miners, for sugar- 
houses, quarries, plantations, locomotives, artesian wells, irrigation, gas-works, oil lines, 
air-supply, and many other practical purposes. The George F. Blake Company's works 
are at Cambridge, and were built in 1889, and are thoroughly equipped and admirably 
managed expressly for this business. 

Many of the most important bridges on the leading New-England railroad routes have 
been built by the Boston Bridge Works, founded in 1876, by D. H. Andrews. The shops 
at East Cambridge cover three acres, and employ 300 men, making railway and highway 
bridges, locomotive turn-tables, travelling cranes, roof trusses, and other heavy wrought- 
iron or steel structural work. Their work is distinguished not only for excellence of work- 
manship and material, but also for engineering features, their reputation in all these partic- 
ulars not being surpassed in America. Among the notable works of this company are 
the Salmon-Falls and Sugar-River bridges, in New Hampshire ; the New-York & New- 
England Railway bridge across the Connecticut 
River, at Hartford ; and the handsome Harvard 
Bridge, joining Cambridge and Boston. The 
heavy girder-spans of the latter were floated from 
the wharf on pontoons to their places, and then 
carefully lowered into their positions on the top 
of the piers by means of valves in the pon- 
toons. All the above bridges were designed as 
EAST CAMBRIDGE . BOSTON BRIDGE WORKS. wcU as built by the Boston Bridge Works, 




594 




TURNER S FALLS JOHN RUSSELL CUTLERY CO 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF TIIF. UNITED STATES. 

except the Harvard Bridge, which was designed by the 
Cit) Engineer of Boston. 

Observers of the cutlery trade state that the Ameri- 
can sales abroad are increasing steadily, while the busi- 
ness of the English firms is continually dropping off. 
Among the great New-England cutlers 
who have thus broken the monopoly of 
England's steel centres, none stands 
higher than the John Russell Cutlery 
Company, founded at Deerfield, in 1834, 
by John Russell, who determined to make 
the classes of goods of which Sheffield 
had held monopoly for centuries. These 
immense works are at Turner's Falls, on 
the Connecticut River, and are said to 
have cost over a million dollars. They 
cover six acres of floor space, wherein 
650 men are kept at work making table 
and pocket cutlery, to the number of over 
5,000,000 pieces yearly. The yearly con- 
sumption of steel is 500 tons, with 250 tons uf cocobola and granadilla woods, ebony and 
ivory, stag-horn and bone. This is the oldest and largest American house making table- 
cutlery, and has practically no rivals in its fine pearl, ivory, plated, and other fine cutlery ; 
knives for hunters and butchers, painters and druggists ; and Barlow's and other pocket- 
knives. The 3, 500 distinct varieties of articles made here include also avast number of 
silver-plated spoons and forks. The "John Russell" goods are made to meet the reijuire- 
ments of the most fastidious tastes. 

The old-fashioned drill for metal was made 
the required size. Later, the points of such 
drills were slightly twisted. These drills did 
not, however, have a satisfactory cutting edge, 
and were not at all accurate as to size. By the 
invention of the Morse Straight Lip Increase 
Twist Drill, made from a round piece of steel 
turned to the size desired, and having the twist 
or groove cut out of the solid stock, these difficul- 
ties were overcome. Thus in 1864 was started 
at New Bedford, by the Morse Twist Drill and Machine Company, a new industry, the 
products of which are now universally used, and are indispensable in all metal-workers' 
shops. This company has a capital stock of $600,000, and employs 250 hands. It pos- 
sesses a large and thoroughly equipped plant, where are manufactured with great accu- 
racy and precision drills varying in size from a cambric needle to four and a half inches in 
diameter. In addition to drills for use in steel, ii'on, brass, and wood, they make chucks, 
reamers, taps, dies, and other kindred tools. These products are distributed throughout the 

world ; and regular agencies are maintained in 
Australia and Great Britain, and on the continent 
of Europe. 

In a pleasant suburb of Worcester are the two 
separate works of the Coes Wrench Company, a 
well-known concern devoted to the manufacture of 
knife-handle wrenches, under valuable recent pat- 
ents. They are of case-hardened wrought-iron, 



BOSTON : MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS. 



l)y simply pointing a flat piece of steel of 




NEW BEDFORD: MORSE TWIST DRILL AN3 MACHINE CO, 




THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



395 




with handles of southern dog-wood or persimmon, making a 
very handy, strong, and powerful tool for general use. The 
business was founded in 1841, by the brothers, Loring Goes 
and A. G. Goes, who received their first patent on wrenches 
in that year. In 1888 the Goes Wrench Gom- 
pany was formed, under the presidency of 
Loring Goes. The works now employ 100 
men, and make daily more than 1, 500 wrenches, 
which are sent all over the world, and are 
recognized by the trade as the highest grade 
made anywhere. Loring Goes & Go. also 
manufacture a great number of shear-blades 
and knives, at separate works, near the wrench factories. 

A great industry which has made Taunton famous everywhere is that of the Albert Field 
Tack Gompany, which makes its sales under the title of A. Field & Sons, and is the oldest 
and largest and finest tack-works in America. This business was begun in 1827, by Albert 
Field, with a single machine, whose product he himself used to carry up to Boston for sale. 
In 1855 he admitted his sons to partnership, which, in 1869, became a corporation, with 
$250, 000 capital. The plant includes a long range of brick buildings, with hundreds of ingen- 
ious machines for making tacks, saddle-nails, wire-nails, eyelets, glaziers' points, and shoe- 
lips, varying from six-inch wire-nails down to copper tacks 4,000 to the ounce. They use 
15 tons of metal, and make 60,000,000 pieces daily, being by far the largest output in Amer- 
ica. Immense cxportations are made to 
Australia and Africa, as well as Europe 
and Asia, and to the company's ware- 
houses at New York, Philadelphia, Balti- 
more, Ghicago, and San Francisco. There 
are 400 people engaged here, making tacks 
for card-clothing and carpets, for saddles 
and shoes, for pictures and mirrors, for 
trunks and pails, for gimp and lace, for 
slating and roofing, for upholstering and 
tufting, for miners and glaziers, and every other conceivable purpose for which tacks and 
small nails are used. They are made of copper, Swedes iron, brass, zinc and tinned iron. 
The largest chair-manufacturing concern in the world is Hey wood Bros. & Go., of Gard- 
ner, which was founded in 1826, by four brothers, Levi, Walter, Benjamin F. , and William 
Heywood. The little frame building then erected, and provided with a slender water-power, 
has developed into a mighty industry, covering 15 acres of ground and 20 acres of floor- 
space, employing 2,000 persons, and making more than a million chairs a year, of cane and 
wood, reed and rattan. They have factories at Gardner, Ghicago, San Francisco, Los 
Angeles and Portland (Oregon), and great warehouses in New York, Boston, Philadelphia, 
and Baltimore, as well as at the above-named points on the Pacific Goast. Its products are 
exported to all parts of the world, and include every imaginable variety of modern chairs. 

The Heywoods are not only the largest man- 
ufacturers of chairs, but they are also the 
leading house of the whole country in three 
'»^ » ii* other important industries, children's car- 

riages, rattan and reed furniture and cane, the 
furniture and carriages being made in an 
endless variety and enormous quantity. The 
modest quietness with which the Heywoods 
have conducted their business would never 




TAUNTON : ALBERT FIELD TACK CO. 




396 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LOWELL : LAMSON CONSOLIDATED STORE SERVICE CO. 



lead outsiders to suppose their plant was 
worth millions of dollars, and that their 
yearly product reached several millions in 
value. 

The business of cash-carrying apparatus 
was originated by William S. Lamson, of 
Lowell, who first conceived the idea of 
transferring cash and parcels by mechanical 
means, and doing away with cash boys. This apparatus was put into his own stores in 
Lowell. In 1881 the apparatus was improved and put upon the market, the "Cash Sys- 
tems" (as they are called) being leased to merchants. The Lamson Cash Carrier Com- 
pany, formed in 18S1, was merged in 1 883 into the Lamson Cash Railway Company, with 
a capital of $1,000,000. In 1888 the Lamson Consolidated Store Service Company was 
formed, with a capital of $4,000,000. The devices put out by these companies were rap- 
idly introduced throughout the country, as they effected great savings in time, and proved 
to be a great convenience and a very satisfactory method of handling cash and parcels. At 
this time over 3,000 merchants are using the different systems for cash and parcel carrying 
manufactured by this company. Several competitors have arisen, but those that have 
proved to have devices of value have been absorbed by the Lamson Company, which has 
also improved constantly its own apparatus. The company also manufactures cash-regis- 
ters, used for the better p)rotection of mer- 
chants by indicating publicly all cash re- 
ceipts. The works in Lowell consist of 
two large factories and other buildings, 
occupying three acres. The company also 
has a factory in New York, and agencies 
and repair shops in many cities. 

Among the manufacturers of Massa- 
chusetts whose products merit special 
mention is the Putnam Nail Company, 
whose horse-nail factory, situated on the 
banks of the Neponset River, in Boston, 
covers a space of ten acres, and furnishes employment for 400 people. They produce a 
horse-nail which is unique, in that it is hot-forged directly from Swedish iron rods in a 
shape perfectly adapted for use in fastening on horse-shoes. This process is specially 
commendable because it completely obviates the possibility of splitting when driven, which 
is characteristic of other nails. This concern is the pioneer in the line of machine-made 
horse-nails, and is the only one which manufactures a hot-forged nail. All other nails 
are made by the cold-rolling and clipping process, and are oftentimes dangerous to the 
horse in whose feet they are driven. At the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia, the 
Putnam hot-forged nail received the highest award ; and the verdict of popular of)inion 
has been growing more and more strong in its 
favor ever since. The Putnam Nail Company 
was incorporated in 1877, and has a capital 
of $300,000, besides large reserves, and a busi- 
ness extending throughout the Union, and 
also to England, Australia, China, and other 
foreign countries. Its product exceeds the united 
output of any other three companies, and equals 
2, 500 tons a year, in 35 styles and sizes. The 
business was founded in 1859, and supplied the 
cavalry horses in the war of 186 1-5. 




NORTHAMPTON , BEi DING BROS i, CO S SILK MILLS 




BOSTON (NEPONSET) : PUTNAM NAIL WORKS. 



THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



397 




EAST BOSTON : BOSTON & LOCKPOHT BLOCK CO. 



The proper making of tackle-blocks, so that 
they shall be strong, durable, and adapted to 
their uses, is a department of work in which 
skilful Bay- State workmen have achieved unusual 
success. The chief establishment in this line in 
America is the Boston and Lockport Block Com- 
pany, whose factories are at East Boston (Mass.) 
and Lockport (N. Y. ). Here is made the vast 
majority of all the tackle-blocks used in this 
country. Many of these are covered by special 
patents. The self-adjusting five-roller bushed 
tackle-blocks, for durability and for ease of hoisting excel everything in this line, and 
received a gold medal from the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association, in 1890. 
The Batts Patent Differential Hoist, by means of which one man can hoist full capacity 
even up to ten thousand pounds, is probably the simplest and most durable hoist in the 
market, and is used by bridge-builders, machine-shops, and others. This, too, was 
awarded a gold-medal by the Mechanic Association. Their Metaline Bushed Block 
is self-lubricating, and was the first of its kind ever introduced to the public (by this firm, 
in 1876). The tackle-blocks made by this company are sold over a wide territory, not only 
throughout this country, but many foreign countries. Their uses are unlimited for all hoist- 
ing purposes. The Boston & Lockport Company was incorporated in 1887, with a paid-in 
capital of $300,ocx), and was a consolidation of the Bagnall & Loud Block Company of Bos- 
.^ ,..^^^. ,, - ton (established in 1840) and the Penfield Block Co., of 

Lockport (N. Y.). The success of this establishment 
has been due mainly to its superior quality of goods, 
with thoroughly trustworthy workmanship. The five- 
pointed star, which is the patented trade-mark, is always 
indicative of the best grades. 

Massachusetts holds the supremacy in brush making ; 
and the most complete brush-factory in the world is that 
of John L. Whiting & Son, in Boston. It is near the 
site of old Fort Hill, and is a large handsome brick 
building, with an acre and a half of floor space, espe- 
cially erected by this firm in 1884, for its own business, 
which has been a marked success from its founding in 1864. The notable features of 
this business are the number and variety of new machines and original processes introduced 
by the Whitings, and the large corps of skilled brush-makers employed, ensuring an excel- 
lent uniformity of product, and a vast output, besides an absolute reduction in the prices 
of staple brushes. There are 500 men engaged in these works ; and the product includes 
an immense variety of brushes for painters, varnishers, and white-washers, besides finer 
articles for artists, and many for household use. The Whiting products are sent to all 
parts of the Union, and also to various foreign countries, wherever brushes are used. 

Asbestos is a mineral of many uses. It is indestructible 
by any degree of heat or any ordinary acids ; hence, for fire- 
proofing and non-conducting it is invaluable. It is a spe- 
cies of rock, usually found in connection with serpentine, but 
it possesses fibres and textures as delicate as silk. Until 
the discovery of mines at Thetford, in Canada, and their 
succcessful working by modern machinery by the Asbestos 
Packing Company of Boston, the chief supply came from 
the mountains in Italy. While there is found an abund- 
ance of p(ior grades, the Canadian mines are the main 
source of the best qualities. Early in this century asbestos 




BOSTON : JOHN L. WHITING & SON. 




398 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




80UTHB0R00GH : ST. MARK'S SCHOOL. 



came to be utilized, and since then many patents 
have been granted for peculiar forms, special uses, 
and machinery and tools for its manufacture. The 
Asbestos Packing Company was the pioneer manu- 
facturer in the United States of asbestos packing, 
now in extensive use, and invaluable where super- 
heated steam or acids are used. Asbestos goods 
include rope, wick, and sheet-packing ; refined fibre; 
mill board, in rolls and sheets ; gaskets, cloth, tape, 
rings, print-roller cord, twine, tubes, sheathing, 
wire-board, roofing, cement, felting, stove-linings, and furnace, retort and stove cements. 
The main uses of asbestos are for steam-packing, covering steam boilers and heated pipes, 
sheathing walls, lining floors, and covering roofs. By its use destruction by fire is averted 
and transmission of noises prevented. It is of exceeding value as a non-conductor of elec- 
tricity. The technical treatment of asbestos has reached its highest development by the 
Asbestos Packing Company and its closely allied concerns, whose chief factory is at Charles- 
town, and whose main offices are in Boston, with branches in New York, Philadelphia, 
Chicago, and London. The business of supplying this valuable mineral is conducted here 
with scientific skill and ability, and has built up a large and interesting industry. 

Throughout all New England the name of " Jordan-Marsh" is a sort of magic talisman 
to people of all classes, calling up visions of one of the greatest departmental stores in the 
world, bright with silks and ribbons, dainty with fine laces and embroideries, and rich in 
all manner of house-furnishings, and coverings for 
head and feet and body. Eben D. Jordan and the 
lateB. L. Marsh, founded this establishment, in 1841, 
in an obscure part of Boston ; and in the intervening 
period the business has increased, year by year, until 
it now reaches $18,000,000 annually, and occupies one 
of the largest and handsomest series of buildings on 
Washington Street, the main thoroughfare of Boston. 
Jordan, Marsh & Co. began their career as a dry- 
goods house, and the bulk of the trade still remains 
in that line ; but scores of other departments have 
been added, until now their establishment, covering 
several broad stories, and ten acres of flooring, and 
with entrances on three streets, is a veritable bazaar 
of hundreds of lines of goods, visited by myriads of purchasers every day, and conducting 
also a large business by mail, and an important wholesale trade. Jordan, Marsh & Co. 
employ 2,800 people in their buildings; and have a large corps of travelling salesmen, and 
an army of working people manufacturing expressly for them. 

The first settlers along the Atlantic shores wore the pictur- 
esque garments common in the England of their period : the 
short cloak and doublet, plaited ruffs or falling collar, long silk 
stockings and heavy boots, with high felt hats for out-door use, 
and velvet skull-caps for home wear. About the middle of ,the 
last century the gentry of the province wore cocked hats, wigs, 
and red cloaks, and in winter buckram-lined round coats coming 
down to the knees. These in turn gave way to the embroid- 
ered satins and velvets, gold-lacings and jeweled garments of our 
ancestors, shown in Copley's portraits. The manufacture of cloth- 
ing, now one of the great industries of Massachusetts, is con- 
BosroN MACULLAR PARKER & CO. ductcd by ucarly 600 establishments, employing 5,oot) men and 




BOSTON JORDAN 



MARSH & CO 




THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



399 



16,000 women, with an annual wage-account of $6,000,000, and an annual product of 
if 28, 600,000. MacuUar, Parker & Company is an ideal house in making and selling cloth- 
ing for men and boys, and occupies admirably arranged buildings in the chief retail quar- 
ter of Boston, facing on 398 and 400 Washington Street, with a handsome classic facade of 
white marble. In the six stories of this edifice, and also the building adjoining, and the 
similar one back of it, covering two acres of flooring, 600 persons are kept busy, making 
fine grades of clothing, out of the best materials, and in the most thorough manner. This 
famous concern, one of the best-known in Massachusetts, was founded in Worcester, in 
1849, ^"<i moved to Boston in 1852. It has a prosperous branch in Providence, and ofii- 
ces at New York, Chicago, and London ; and besides its vast output of ready-made cloth- 
ing, it has large custom and wholesale cloth departments. 

The most interesting and important carpet-warehouse in 

this part of the country is that of John H. Pray, Sons & Co., 

of Boston, founded in the year 1 81 7, and 




1 ■,f?^ia^''^ir[;; "^^^ 



boston:. .---.i.i.ii, - -..» 

JOHN H. PRAY, 
SONS & CO. 




^iiyi;!il||^l 




now doing a business of $3,000,000 a year. 
Their great six-story building has on the 
ground-floor, upholstery and Oriental and 
Persian rugs ; on the second, the carpet 
sales-rooms, and exhibition-rooms for Au- 
bussons, Axminsters, and Wiltons ; the third, 
fourth and fifth floors are for storing, and 
wholesaling; and the sixth for cutting and 
sewing carpets. From this wonderful stock 
were obtained the carpets for Trinity Church, the Algonquin Club, the United-States 
Treasury building at Washington, and many other great edifices, besides thousands on thou- 
sands of American homes. There are 300 persons in the employ of the company, whose Bos- 
ton store alone covers i\ acres. The standard American carpets of the Lowell Carpet 
Company are sold here in immense quantities, while another class of needs is satisfied by 
the company's importations of China matting from Hong Kong and Canton, amounting to 
15,000 rolls yearly. 

Over half a century ago, in 1840, Oliver Ditson founded the music-publishing business 
which now bears his name. In 1845 John C. Haynes came, fresh from school, to be the 
store-boy, rising twelve years later to partnership. Mr. Ditson died in 1888, after which 
the Oliver Ditson Company of Boston was incorporated. From insignificant beginnings 
this business has extended mightily, until now it publishes more than 75,000 pieces of sheet 
music, 2,200 musical books, a large number of biographies of musicians, and a variety of 
kindred works. They have bought out the catalogues of many of the fore- 
most competing houses, and for many years have stood far in the lead of 
the music-publishing business of America. The affiliated house of John C. 
Haynes & Co. (in Boston) is chiefly devoted to the sale of musical instru- 
ments, in two stores, carried on by them ; and has a large manufactory for 
making guitars, banjos, and mandolins. The corporation has prosperous 
branch-houses — complete establishments in themselves — in New York and 
Philadelphia, and has close connections with Lyon & Healy, the great Chi- 
cago music-house. The Ditson establishment has been an important helper 
in the advance of musical culture, having published important operas and 
oratorios by home composers. They brought out the first American editions 
of Mendelssohn's Songs without Words, and Beethoven's- Sonatas. Rich- 
ardson's Nezv Method for the Piano-Forte was published by this house in 
1858, and nearly half a million copies have already been sold. 

An important agency in building operations throughout this region is 
the making of brick, for so many years the favorite material for substan- oliveTditson co 




400 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




GLENWOOD: NEW-ENGLAND ANDERSON PRESSED BRICK CO. 



tial structures. The New-England Anderson 
Pressed Brick Company was organized in 1886, 
for the purpose of manufacturing plain, shape 
and ornamental pressed brick, under a license 
from J. C. Anderson (the patentee), "for all the 
New-England States, except Connecticut." Their 
works are on the Medford branch of the Boston 
& Maine Railroad, three miles from Boston, and 
cover several acres. They manufacture all the 
various grades of fine pressed brick, for which 
the Anderson system is so widely celebrated, and some of the best buildings erected in New 
England during the past three years have been constructed or ornamented with these brick, 
including prominent edifices in nearly 100 cities and towns of New England and the Prov- 
inces. This is one of the three great Anderson Pressed Brick Works, the others being 
at New York and Chicago, and the reputation of their product is known in Europe and 
throughout this country. The processes are described in the Illinois chapter. 

The placing of all kinds of furnishings in the homes of the people keeps many large 
establishments busy from one year's end to the other. 
One of the most interesting in its methods is that of B. A. 
Atkinson & Co., who sell vast quantities of furniture on 
the easy payment or instalment system. Their stores 
cover over 25 acres of floor-space, and are the largest 
and best-arranged in their line in America. They employ 
350 persons, 80 horses, and 44 delivery- wagons ; and 
have 1 5 branches, in as many New-England cities. The 
concerns are worth above $ i , 500, 000, and their sales reach 
over $2,500,000 a year. Mr. Atkinson began life as a 
sailor-boy ; and at the age of 16 he founded the present business, which he has built up 
and still controls. There is hardly an article used in housekeeping, from carpets and mat- 
tresses to crockery and glassware, through all grades and classes of furniture, that is not 
kept in stock in this great bazaar. 

The Bradley Fertilizer Company was established in 1 861, by Wm. L. Bradley, who is now 
its President. The business of the Bradley Fertilizer Company has steadily increased through 
the genuine merits of the goods they have produced, until to-day they are the largest manufac- 
turers of fertilizers in the world, and employ over 1,200 persons. At their factories, at North 
Weymouth, they produce a series of fertilizers prepared from the finest quality of raw mater- 
ials, selected with especial reference to their crop-producing powers, and combined in such 
proportions as the practical experience of over a quarter of a century has demonstrated are 
needed in order to produce the best 
results. The continued use of their 
fertilizers by successful farmers, and 
their largely increasing sales every sea- 
son, prove conclusively that their pro- 
ductions are all they are represented to 
be, and rightly hold the first place 
among the many brands of fertilizers. 
The wonderful success of the Bradley 
fertilizers is largely due to comprehen- 
sive and exhaustive field-tests of plant- 
foods in various form and proportions 
on the large farms owned by the com- 
pany and its stockholders. north weymouth: bradley fertilizer works. 






A temporary mission was 

founded at the Sault Stc- 

Marie, in i64i,by the Jesuit 
I; fathers, Jogues and Raym- 

bault, for the salvation of 

the Chippewas. In 1 668 

Father Marquette renewed 

the mission ; and three 

years later he founded St. 
Ignace, for the Ilurons, on the northern shore of the Straits 
of Mackinaw, " the key and gate for all the tribes from the 
south." Within a few years this became a French military 
post, with a garrison of 200 soldiers, and Indian villagers 
numbering 6,000. 

Less enduring fortresses were established by La Salle, 
at St. Joseph, and by Du Luth, at the outlet of Lake 
Huron. Cadillac and 50 French soldiers, in 1701, founded 
Fort Pontchartrain, at Detroit, anticipating Lord Bello- 
mont's design to occupy the place with British troops. For 
a century the peninsula was traversed only by coureiirs de 
hois and fur-traders, while the little farming colony of 
French people in the southeast dreamed away its tranquil 
and joyous life. In 1760-1, after the conquest of Canada, 
British garrisons occupied Detroit, Michilimackinac, Sault 
St. -Marie and St. Joseph. Soon afterwards the great chief 
Pontiac raised the Western country against its new masters, 
destroying Michilimackinac and other forts and their garri- 
sons, and besieging Detroit for many weeks. Afterwards 
Detroit became the capital of the vast northwestern terri- 
tories of England ; and during the Revolution Gov. Hamil- 
ton led Anglo-Indian armies thence on forays far into Ken- 
tucky and Virginia, until George Rogers Clark captured 
him at Vincennes. The fortress remained under British 
control until 1796, when, as a result of Jay's treaty. Gen. 
Wayne's troops replaced the red-coat garrison. When the War of 181 2 broke out, Michigan 
had a double frontier imperilled, with the British on one side and the Indians on the other ; 
and Gen. Brock, with 1,300 British troops, compelled the unfortunate Gov. Hull to surrender 



Settled at Detroit. 

Settled in 1670 

Founded by . . . frenchmen. 

Admitted as a State, . . . 1837 

Population, in 1800, . . . 7.(9,113 

In 1870, 1,184,059 

In 1880 1.630,937 

White, 1,614,560 

Colored 22,337 

American born, . . . 1,248,429 
Foreign-born, .... 388,508 

Males 826,355 

Females, 774,582 

In 1890 (U. S. censu.s), 2,093.889 
Population to the square mile, 28.5 
Voting Population, . . . 467,687 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 236,387 
Vote for Cleveland (i8b8), 213,469 
Net Slate debt, . . $4,148,723.68 
Assessed Valuation of 

Propel ty (1890), . , §945,450,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 58,915 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 12 

Militia (Disciplined!, . , . 2,434 

Counties, 84 

Post-offices, .... 1,923 

Railroads (miles), .... 7,243 
Vessels, ... ... 1,110 

Tonnage, 276, 71^0 

Manufaciures (yearly), $150,692,025 

(Operatives, 77i59l 

Yearly Wages, . . . §25,318,682 
Farm Land (in acres), . 13,869,221 
Farm-I.and Values, $199,103,181 
Farm Products (yearly) §91,159,858 
Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 279,900 

Newspapers, 690 

Latitude, . . . 4i°42' to 48^22' N! 
Longitude, . . 82"86' to 9o''3o' W. 
Temperature, . . . — 33" to loi" 
Mean Temperature (Detroit), 47° 



TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). 

Detroit, 205,476 

Grand Rapids, . ... 60,278 

Saginaw, .... ... 46,322 

Bay Citj', 27,839 

Muskegon, 22,702 

Jackson, ... .... 20,798 

Kalamazoo, I7i853 

Port Huron. 13.543 

Battle Creek, 13.197 

Lansing, 13,102 



402 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




ST. IGNACE. 



Detroit, and the Territory with it, while Mackinac 
fell into the hands of another invading force. 
After Com. Perry captured the British fleet on 
Lake Erie, he took on his ships Gen. Harrison's 
Army of the West, which re-won Detroit, and broke 
the hostile power at the battle of the Thames. 
When peace came, the Territory shut out Cana- 
dian traders, and Astor's American Fur Company 
occupied Mackinac. Gov. Cass made treaties 
with the Indians, and transferred most of them 
beyond the Mississippi ; and in 1817 the surveyed 
public lands were offered for settlement. Then the great immigration from Ohio, New York 
and New England set in, especially after the opening of the Erie Canal, in 1825. In 1800 
the population was but 500, but by 1S30 it had risen to 31,639. When the steamboat 
Walk-in-the -Water reached Detroit and Mackinac, in 1818-9, the amazed Indians were 
made to believe that it was drawn by teams of trained sturgeons. By 1830 daily boats were 
running between Detroit and Buffalo, and pioneers began to pour into the fertile southern 
counties in every direction. 

Michigan remained in the Territory Northwest of the River Ohio from 1787 until iSoo, 
when it was divided near the longitude of Lansing, the eastern part remaining in the North- 
western Territory, and the rest being included in Indiana Territory. Two years later, all 
Michigan lay in Indiana; and in 1805 Michigan Territory came into being, covering the 
Lower Peninsula, part of the Upper Peninsula and strips of northern Ohio and Indiana. 
In 1816 the Indiana strip was taken off. In 1818, Michigan spread over Wisconsin, the 
Upper Peninsula, and Minnesota east of the Mississippi ; and in 1834, the rest of Minnesota, 
Iowa, and Dakota east of the Missouri and White-Earth Rivers were added to it. Then 
began the period of curtailment, and in 1836 Michigan was cut down to nearly her present 
area, preparatory to assuming Statehood the next year as the thirteenth of the new com- 
monwealths. The little strip of northern Ohio, including Toledo and Maumee Bay, and 
covering 600 square miles, was held with great tenacity by Michigan, and the militia of the 
two States prepared to do battle for it on the plains of Toledo. A compromise was finally 
effected by ceding to the young commonwealth the Upper Peninsula, in exchange for the 
disputed territory. 

The Michigan contingent in the late civil war was 90,747 men, in 31 regiments of 
infantry and eleven of cavalry, companies of sharpshooters and engineers, 14 batteries, and 
several other commands. Of these soldiers, 4,207 were killed or mortally wounded, and 
10,136 died of disease. 

The Name of the State is derived from the Chippewa words, Mitchi, "Great," and 
Sa'cvgvegan, "Lake," applying to the fresh-water sea on the west. The popular nickname 
is The Wolverine State, on account of the great number of these animals once found here. 

The Arms of Michigan bear a hunter, with the 
rising sun in the background. Above is the Latin 
word Tiicbor: "I will defend," with E Pluribus 
Unum still higher; and the motto (given by Lewis 
Cass) is Si qu^ris Peninsulam Amcenam, Cir- 
CUMSPICE, "If you seek a pleasant Peninsula, look 
around you." The crest is an eagle. 

The Governors of Michigan have been : Ter- 
ritorial: Wm. Hull, 1805-13; Lewis Cass, 1813-8; 
Wm.Woodbridge (acting), 181S-20, 1 823-5, 1826-8; 
Jas. Witherell (acting), 1 830 ; John T. Mason (acting), 
LAKE 6T. -CLAIR CANAL. 1830-1 ; Stevcns T. Masou (acting), 1831 ; Geo. B. 




THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



403 




MARQUETTE : ORE DOCKS. 



Porter, 1831 ; Stevens T. Mason (acting), 1831-4; 
John S. Horner (nominal), 1835. State: Stevens 
T. Mason, 1S35-8; Edward Mundy (acting), 
1838; Wm. Woodbridge, 1840-I ; Jas. Wright 
Gordon (acting), 1841 ; John S. Barry, 1842-6; 
Alpheus Felch, 1846-7; Wm. L. Greenly (acting), 
1847-8; Epaphroditus Ransom, 1848-9; John S. 
Barry, 1850-1 ; Robert McClelland, 1852-3 ; 
Andrew Parsons (acting), 1853-4; Kinsley S. 
Bingham, 1S55-8; Moses Wisner, 1858-60; Aus- 
tin Blair, 1S61-5 ; Henry H. Crapo, 1865-8 ; Henry 
P. Baldwin, 1869-72; John J. Bagley, 1873-6; Chas. M. Croswell, 1877-80; David H. 
Jerome, 1 88 1-2; Josiah W. Begole, 1883-4; Russell A. Alger, 1885-6; Cyrus G. Luce, 
1887-90; and Edwin B. Winans, 1891-2. 

Descriptive. — Michigan is the most irregular in outline of all the States, with a pro- 
digious coast-line on the Great Lakes and their bays. It is made up of two peninsulas, 
widely different in characteristics, and separated by the Straits of Mackinaw. The Lower 
Peninsula is larger than the Upper Peninsula, and forms the western shores of Lakes Huron, 
St. -Clair and Erie, and the eastern shore of Lake Michigan. The Upper Peninsula lies 
between Lakes Huron, Michigan and Superior. The State is larger than New York, Penn- 
sylvania, or Ohio. Lake Huron, 270 by 160 miles in area, covers 20,000 square miles, 581 
feet above the sea, and contains 3,000 islands. It has an average depth of 300 feet, and a 
maximum depth of 1,800 feet. Fierce gales often sweep across the wide expanse between 
Saginaw Bay and Georgian Bay ; and voyagers are out of sight of land during part of their 
transit. Saginaw Bay and Thunder Bay are its chief American embayments ; and at Sand 
Beach the Government has made a fine harbor, with long breakwaters. Lake Michigan is 
the largest lake wholly in the United States, being 360 by 108 miles in area, and covering 
20,000 square miles. It is 581 feet above the sea; and its greatest depth exceeds 900 feet. 
Green Bay and its extensions open away on the west, and the Great and Little Traverse 
bays on the east, with the estuaries of many rivers, formed into artificial harbors. Much 
of the coast is lined with high sand dunes, shifting with the gales, and burying forests and 
fields. There are daily tides of I7 inch. In the northern part of the lake lie the Manitou 
Islands, covering 1,000 square miles, and with 1,300 inhabitants. Beyond these island- 
groups, the lake narrows down to the Straits of Mackinaw, four miles across, and opening 
into Lake Huron. Lake Superior, the largest body of fresh water in the world, with its 
area of 360 by 140 miles, and its depth of 1,800 feet, covers an area of 32,000 square miles, 
between rugged and irregular coasts of rocks and sand, 1,500 miles around. The French 
missionaries likened its shape to that of a bended bow — the north shore being the arc, the 
south shore the cord, and Keweenaw Point the arrow. Two hundred small streams empty 
into this inland sea, and scores of islands rise from its clear waters, 627 feet above the sea. 
These noble lakes give Michigan a coast-line of 1,624 miles, along which 2,000-ton vessels 
may pass without going out of sight of land. 
They constitute one fourth of the fresh water on 
the globe, and their Michigan shores are beaconed 
for navigators by 120 lights and many fog-signals. 

Michigan has more shipping than any other 
Western State. Its fleet includes 400 steamboats ; 
and the total tonnage reaches 150,000. A large 
commerce is carried on with the Canadian ports, 
as well as with the American lake-cities. Detroit 
and Port Huron are the chief shipping-points, 
with imports and exports exceeding $10,000,000 




404 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MACKINAC : ARCH ROCK. 



yearly. Tlic State also has the most important fresh-water fisheries 
in the Union, employing 1,700 men, and producing yearly 27,000,000 
pounds of fish, valued at $1,500,000. More than half of the catch is 
of white-fish, a favorite with epicures ; and the rest includes herring, 
salmon, sturgeon, pike, pickerel, bass, perch, lake-trout and eels. 
Scientific care has been taken in their propagation and protection, 
and the fish-commissioners have planted over 100,000,000 young 
fish. Great quantities are sent east in winter, frozen, and command 
high prices. The commissioners have planted in Michigan waters 
the salmon of California, the land-locked salmon of Maine, and the 
carp of Germany, besides grayling, muscalonge and pickerel ; brook, 
salmon, California, Loch-Leven, Schoodic and German trout ; wall- 
eyed pike, black bass, and other valuable food fish. The hatching- 
stations are at Detroit, Northville, Paris, Petoskey and Glenwood. 
The chief fishing interests are in Delta, Mackinac and Schoolcraft Counties, in the Upper 
Peninsula, and on the Manitou Islands. Not only is Michigan bordered by the three chief 
lakes of America (and of the world), but she also has within her borders over 5,000 mirror- 
like lakes and ponds, covering more than 1,000 square miles. The islands of Michigan num- 
ber 179, with an area of over 6,000 square miles. 

Although the climate abounds in extreme changes, 
it is healthy and invigorating. The health of the peo- 
ple has improved very much since the beginning of the 
century, on account of the general cultivation and 
drainage of the soil. 

The Lower Peninsula is 277 miles in length, 
north and south, and 259 miles in width, and has the 
iccording to various authorities, of a bullet, an open hand, 
-shoe, or, better than all, a mitten. On the south lie Ohio 
and Indiana ; on the east, Lakes Erie and St. -Clair, the connect- 
ing rivers, and the great Lake Huron ; and on the west, Lake 
Michigan. It is a region of plains and round-topped hills, with 
a long valley running across it from Saginaw Bay to Grand Haven. 
The country north of this remarkable valley was in ancient times a great island. The south- 
ern water-shed curves around from Bad Axe to Ann Arbor and Hillsdale ; and the northern 
water-shed is a line of undulating highlands, midway between Lakes Huron and Michigan. 
In the north these hills attain a height of nearly 1,400 feet. The chief rivers of the Lower 
Peninsula are the Raisin and Huron, tributary to Lake Erie ; the Saginaw (navigable for 
40 miles), Au-Sable, Thunder-Bay and Cheboygan, on the Huron side ; and the Grand 
Traverse, Manistee, Muskegon, Grand, Kalamazoo and St. -Joseph on the western side. 
The Grand is 270 miles long, with 40 miles navigable for steamboats. These streams flow 
through winding courses down their pleasant and fertile valleys, of 
little service to navigation (except by timber-rafts), but with good 
harbors at their mouths, made at great cost by the United-States 
Government. The chief Lake-Huron harbors are at Port Huron, 
Sand Beach, Bay City, Saginaw, Alpena and Cheboygan. The 
Lake-Michigan ports are St. Joseph, Grand Haven, Muskegon, 
Manistee, Ludington and Traverse City. 

The Lake-St. -Clair Canal, known to sailors as "The Cut," was 
finished in 1 87 1 , at a cost of $650, 000, by the United-States Govern- 
ment. This route is traversed every year by 2,000 vessels, with a 
tonnage of ^0,000,000. It is 8,200 feet long, 200 feet wide, and 16 „„.. „ „.r„oo . 

t> . . . ^ . . GRAND RAPIDS : 

feet deep, and saves shipping from the intricate navigation of the michiqan masonic home. 




MACKINAC SCENES. 




THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



405 




KALAMAZOO : 
YOUNG MEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION. 



old-time narrow and winding channels. The St. -Clair 
River is a strait, 40 miles long, uniting Lake Huron and 
Lake St. -Clair, with a current of four miles an hour. 
Lake St. -Clair is 25 miles in diameter, generally shallow, 
and bordered with lowlands and fields of wild rice, 
haunted by water-fowl. The water-surface covers 360 
square miles, and averages 20 feet deep. Detroit River, 
20 miles long, unites Lake St. -Clair with Lake Erie, and 
at its mouth is four miles wide. All the traffic passes 
through the narrow Canadian channel, east of Bois-Blanc 
Island, the American channel, though broader, being more shallow. 

The lakes of the Michigan North Woods and the Grand-Traverse region. Pine Lake, 
(18 by four miles), Torch, Bear, Burt, Mullet and others, between Traverse City and Che- 
boygan, abound in game and fish, and are much visited by sportsmen. 

Mackinac is a quaint and antiquated hamlet on an island in the Straits, overlooked by a 
crumbling fort, and isolated by the wide northern waters from modern activities and excite- 
ments. It was founded by the French fur-traders and mission-priests more than two cen- 
turies ago, and has suffered from several sieges, Indian, British and American. Astor's 
American Fur Company made Mackinac its chief depot fqr 40 years, after 1S09. The island 
is nine miles around, and has been reserved by the United-States Government as one of its 
National parks. The Arch, Chimney, and Sugar-Loaf Rocks, and other odd bits of scenery, 
the deep and spicy forests, the noble views over the blue and sea 
petual coolness and refreshment of the air, and the 1 



like lakes ; the per- 




INSTITUTION FOR THE DEAF AND DUMB. 



weird legends which haunt every lonely 
beach and breezy cliff, have made Mack- 
inac a charming summer-resort in these 
latter days. Bois-Blanc Island, Point St. 
Ignace, the Cheneaux Islands and other 
interesting localities are in this vicinity. 

Beaver Island was the seat of the Mormon colony of St: James, founded in 1846 by one 
of the Nauvoo elders, who acted as its priest and king for ten years, when he was assassi- 
nated, and the colony disappeared. 

The Climate of the Lower Peninsula, moderated by its bordering seas, is several degrees 
warmer than that of the same latitudes in "Wisconsin. The mean temperature 1547.25°, 
and the annual rainfall reaches 42 inches. The spring and summer rains are heavier than 
in the Upper Peninsula ; the autumn and winter rains are lighter. The mean yearly tem- 
perature of Lansing resembles that of Berlin, with the summers of Vienna and the winters 
of Stockholm. The tempering influences of Lake Michigan, robbing the frequent north and 
northwest winds of their rigor, have developed a vast and varied flora. 

Agriculture. — The average yearly product of wheat in Michigan is 27,000,000 bushels, 
most of which comes from the southern four tiers of counties. The 
product of shelled corn varies from 23,000,000 to 27,000,000 bushels, 
with an average of 21,000,000 ; of oats, 25,000,000 to 32,000,000 ; pota- 
toes, 10,000,000 bushels ; and clover-seed, 230,000 bushels. The yield 
of hay is 1,500,000 tons; and buckwheat, barley, rye, and 
clover-seed are profitably cultivated. 

Dr. Winchell says that the geological strata of the Lower 
Peninsula are like a nest of bowls, the coal-measures in the 
middle, and various belts of sandstone, limestone and other 
formations outside. The soil is a light sandy loam, unpro- 
ductive in the timber-lands of the north and the sands of 
GRAND RAPIDS : CITY HALL. the wcst, but lu the south rich and fruitful, and abounding 




4o6 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




t--Hr3«*«|*™fg^§^' 



PONTIAC : EASTERN MICHIGAN INSANE ASYLUM. 



in corn. The larger rivers have 
valuable alluvial bottoms, occu- 
pied by prosperous farms. The 
southern counties are famous 
for cereals and live-stock, and 
have enormous areas of orchards 
and fruit -farms. And yet the 
Surveyor-General of Ohio re- 
ported, in 1815, that not more 
than one acre in a thousand in 
southern Michigan "would in 
any case admit of cultivation, " and Congress benevolently excluded this alleged desert from 
its military land-grants. 

The upland plains, extending for 200 miles north along the shore of Lake Michigan 
and with a climate tempered by the water, include one of the best fruit-raising countries in 
the world. The fruits of Allegan, Van-Buren and Berrien counties bring over $2,000,000 
yearly, and include peaches, apples, cherries, plums, strawberries and grapes. In 1S72 there 
were 600,000 peach-trees in southwestern Michigan, but nearly all were destroyed by the 
yellows, and by severe winters, during the next five years. These have been replaced by 
new trees; and St. Joseph and South Haven still supply Chicago with choice peaches. The 
Michigan apples are among the best in America, and upwards of 3,000,000 bushels are sold 
yearly. Kalamazoo is the foremost locality in America (and perhaps in the world) for the 
cultivation of celery, having 2,000 acres devoted to this industry. 

The successful development of agriculture in 
the Northwest has been materially aided by the 
admirable quality of the seeds furnished to the 
husbandmen. One of the largest seed-houses 
in the world is that of D. M. Ferry & Com- 
pany, whose great new fire-proof building, cov- 
ering half a block in the heart of Detroit, is 
the most gigantic structure for its uses in the 
world. Here are the headquarters of 90 travel- 
ling salesmen ; and nearly 1,500 persons are em- 
ployed on the seed-farms and in other operations of the company, during the busy season. 
The seeds raised by these experts are carefully packed into boxes, assorted for different soils 
and climates ; and this enormous product goes all over the continent, thousands of whose 
farmers send for "Ferry's Seed Annual" every season before the frost leaves the ground. 




DETROIT ; D. M. FERRY COMPANY. 



The trial 
and purity, 
other seeds 
1856, and 
dustries of 




DETROIT , NEW POST-OFFICE 



grounds cover ten acres, and are the scene of careful tests for vitality 
to which all varieties of vegetables and flowers, grain and grass, and 
are continually subjected. This widely known business was founded in 
has developed into one of the most commanding and beneficent in- 
the Northwest, preeminently the land of farms. 

'" The live-stock of Michigan numbers 370,000 

horses, 348,000 milch-cows, 380,000 cattle, 460,- 
000 hogs, and 2,000,000 sheep. The latter yield 
12,000,000 pounds of wool yearly. Forty-five 
thousand colonies of bees produce 750,000 pounds 
of honey every year, from the abounding flowers 
which adorn the broad plains of the Lower 
Peninsula. 

Minerals. — The manufacture of salt in Mich- 
igan began in i860, and by 1880 reached over 



THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



407 




^m-im 





MARQUETTE : THE POST-OFFICE. 



12,000,000 bushels yearly. This great industry centres about 
Saginaw Bay, where multitudes of salt-wells have been sunk, 
and about Manistee. Most of the brine is evaporated by the 
waste steam of the lumber-mills. The saline region covers 
8,000 square miles, and is inexhaustible, the output even now 
being greater than that of New York, with careful inspection 
and high grading. In 1888, 4,240,000 barrels of salt were 
f)roduced ; and in all over 50,000,000 barrels have been sent 
from these wells. 

Coal underlies 6,700 square miles of Michigan, the chief 
veins being from two to five feet thick, and far underground. It 
is of inferior quality, containing hardly 50 per cent, of carbon, 
light, friable and slaty. It is highly bituminous, but not pure 
enough for smelting, for which coal is brought from Ohio and Pennsylvania. The chief 
coal-mines are near Jackson and Corunna, in the centre of the Lower Peninsula. There 
are large grindstone quarries at Grindstone City, on the tip of the thumb of the Lower 
Peninsula, where 200 men cut and chip the stones to the desired size, after which they are 
hung and turned in the mills. It is a very fine grit, soft and wet when fresh, but growing 
hard and dry on exposure. The quarries were opened in 1838. Their product goes to 
Detroit and Chicago, by water. The State produces 54,000 tons of land-plaster yearly, 
and 170,000 barrels of stucco. The quarries are near Grand Rapids and Alabaster, in thick 
beds of white, rose and gray gypsum, which is broken, crushed, pulverized and ground like 
flour. Near Jackson there are large deposits of fire-clay, used for sewer-pipe, drain-tile 
and similar wares, of which over 30,000 tons are made here every year. Among other 
mineral products are the white statuary marble of Menominee ; the red and yellow ochres 
of St. Mary ; the mottled, buff, white and gray freestones of Ionia, Stony Point, Parma and 
Point aux Barques ; the fine slates of Huron Bay ; the limestones of Little Traverse and 
London ; and the glass-sand of Ida, six miles from Monroe, from which excellent plate- 
glass is made. 

The so-called magnetic waters of Michigan (which are, indeed, not magnetic) were 
developed about the year 1870. The fountains at Eaton Rapids, Hubbardston and Leslie 
Wells are calcic. The Butterworth Springs at Grand Rapids resemble those of Bath. The 
Alpena Well is remarkably rich in sulphuretted hydrogen. The Spring-Lake and Fruit- 
Port wells have strong saline waters, much visited by people from Chicago. The Fruit-Port 
water resembles that of Kreuznach, in Prussia. The Owosso Spring is chalybeate. The 
St. -Clair is a valuable saline spring, near the city of St. Clair. The St. -Louis Well, in 
Gratiot County, is a simple alka- 
line water, ameliorating dyspep- 
sia, neuralgia and rheumatism. 
The Medea Springs, at Mt. 
Clemens, are hot waters, used in 
bathing. The Ypsilanti Springs 
are now attracting many patients. 
There are several other mineral 
springs in the State, with hotels 
and other conveniences. 

The production of lumber 
has been a leading industry ever 
since the opening of mills in the 
Saginaw Valley, in 1832. In 
the ten years, 1867-77, the Sag- 
inaw Valley produced enough ^..^troit : international fair and exposition builoinq. 




4o8 



KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LUMBERING IN MICHIGAN. 

ALGER, SMITH 4 CO. 

MANISTIQUE LUMBERING 00. 



lumber to put a walk 44 feet wide around the earth 
at the equator. These mills turned out, in 1865-80, the 
enormous quantity of 8,857,951, 171 feet of lumber. The 
prairies and oak-openings of the southern counties are 
succeeded by broad forests of hardwood, along the rivers, 
and these by illimitaljle pineries in the north. The Upper 
Peninsula is almost entirely covered with forests, not yet 
so seriously attacked as those of the south. This vast 
product is shipped by water to the various lake-ports, and 
distributed thence by railway. Two thirds of the lumber 
used in New York and Philadelphia comes from Michigan. 
Since 1879 the yearly production of the Saginaw Valley 
has risen from 730,000,000 to above 1,000,000,000 feet 
of lumber. Michigan is the foremost State in the value 
of its lumber and laths. In 18S6, her product was 
3,000,000,000 feet of lumber and 284,000,000 shingles. 
There are 1,000 mills, with an invested capital of fully 
$48, 000, 000, and a yearly product of $60, 000, 000. They 
employ 35,000 men. The lumber-industry of the Huron 
shore converges about Saginaw Bay, which is entered by 
ten rivers, with an aggregate length of nearly 900 miles, 
floating yearly 600,000,000 feet of logs. The Grand and 
Muskegon Rivers are also used by vast rafts. Thousands 
of vessel-loads of cord-wood, cedar posts and hemlock 
bark are shipped yearly from the Michigan shores, and 
thousands of tons of maple-sugar and potash and pearl- 
ash. 

At the close of the civil war. Gen. Russell A. Alger, 
whose name is now familiar throughout the whole coun- 
try, settled at Detroit, without a dollar and in ill health, 
and bearing the scars of many battle-wounds, but full of 
energy and hope. He established a lumber business, 
which in 1881 received incorporation as Alger, Smith & 
Co., and is now one of the leading industries of the kind 
in America. This corporation and the Manistique Lum- 
bering Co. (also under the presidency of Gen. Alger) 
own 130,000 acres of pine-land in Alcona County and in 
the Upper Peninsula, with mills and steamboats ; and 
employ a thousand men, producing yearly 140,000,000 
feet of long pine timber, saw logs and lumber. Alger, 
Smith & Co., with their allied concerns, are said to be 
the largest producers of long timber in the world ; and 
most of their shipments go from Black River to Toledo 
and Cleveland, Detroit and Tonawanda. Large timber- 
rafts are towed by the company's steamers to various 
ports, to be used in all operations requiring good lumber. 
The avocations of the woodsmen in the great forests of 
Michigan are full of interest. Gen. Alger also owns 
important interests in great areas of pine-lands in Wis- 
consin and the South, and of redwood in California, and 
fir in Washington, whose products supplement those of 
the Michigan woods. 



THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



409 




SAULT STE. -MARIE : SHIP-CAMAL AND LOCKS. 



The Upper Peninsula is about half the size 
of the Lower, 318 miles long from east to west, 
and from 30 to 164 miles from north to south, and 
with 100,000 inhabitants, mostly connected with 
the mines. On the south it has Wisconsin, Green 
Bay, Lakes Michigan and Huron, and the Straits 
of Mackinaw ; on the north are Lake Superior and 
the St. -Mary's River. A line of highlands runs 
from the Sault Ste. -Marie westward almost to Mar- 
quette, where it breaks into two lower ridges, one 
swinging out into Lake Superior, at Keweenaw 
Point, and the other running west toward the upper lake-country of Wisconsin. The Por- 
cupine Mountains (50 miles long), 20 miles west of Ontonagon, rise 2,000 feet high along 
Lake Superior, with the Copper Range extending from Keweenaw Point into Wisconsin, 
and the South Copper and Iron Ranges farther east. Most of the streams flow south, but 
the two chief rivers, the Tequamenon and Ontonagon, run north into Lake Superior. Rugged 
ridges and sandy plains extend off from the mountain-ranges, and the sAith is covered with 
virgin forests, extending down into the far-reaching and valuable pineries of Wisconsin. 
The Sault-Ste. -Marie River, 62 miles long, forms the boundary between the United 
States and Canada, uniting the waters of Lake Superior and 
Lake Huron. It is a rapid and transparent stream, with many 
islands and lake-like widenings, and leagues of forest-bound 
shores. The St. -Mary's Ship-Canal was opened by Michigan 
in 1855, ^'^^ afterwards transferred to the United States, since 
which great improvements have been made. The lock built 
in 1 88 1 cost $1,000,000, and is of granite, with the most 
approved modern mechanism. It is the largest lock in the 
world, with a length of 515 feet, a width of 80 feet, and a 
lift of 20 feet. It can be filled in 15 minutes, and will hold 
two large lake-steamers. Navigation keeps open here 210 
days or more in a year. In 1888, 7,803 vessels passed 
through, with a tonnage of 5,130,659, and a freight ton- 
nage of 6,411,423. The value of these cargoes exceeded 
!fSo,ooo,ooo. A larger lock, 1,000 feet long, 100 feet wide, 
and 21 feet deep, to cost $4,000,000, is being constructed on the site of the lock opened in 
1855. A greater tonnage passes through this canal every year than through the world- 
renowned Suez Canal, carrying 25,000,000 bushels of wheat, 2,500,000 tons of iron ore, 
165,000,000 feet of lumber, and great quantities of coal. A single vessel and its tow can 
transport as much as 700 freight-cars. At Sault Ste. -Marie (usually called "The Soo") 
converge the tracks of the Duluth, South-Shore & Atlantic, the Minneapolis, St. -Paul & 
Sault-Ste. -Marie, and the Sault Branch of the Canadian-Pacific Railroad. Near the busy 
city which is rising here on the international boundary stands |L the garrisoned post 

of Fort Brady, built in 1S23. A canal was finished in 1873 JT^ ixova Lake Superior 

to Portage Lake, to enable vessels to avoid weathering 
Keweenaw Point. It is l^ miles long, and collects enor- 
mous tolls from the passing vessels. 

The bitter winds and fogs of Lake Superior, ^^^%sS!^r'^'^^^^--\\'i''i'«& 

and the rough and rocky character of much of fei^T: j '''''' '^■- "'^ ciCIf 
the soil, have prevented large farming opera- »^f^'"^'-'''^'£--^^°'— "^ ; /'X S ' 
tions in this region, and the people have turned ^^^m'MiKvi^JS^f&siB-s-j-isiififisssI 

their attention to mining, in which they have "^v^i~'\-''',^::^-:.-r'''-\r' - "' 

achieved great results. grand rapids : Michigan soldiers' home. 




ON-ORE MINING. 





4IO 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




PICTURED rocks: LAKE SUPERIOR. 



The Iron Ore Product of Michigan is far greater 
than that of any other State, and amounts to more than 
one-third of the entire American output. Fifty-seven 
million tons had been shipped hence down to the close of 
1886, valued at $285,000,000. In 1880 the product of 
the mines and furnaces was about 2,000,000 tons, valued 
at $19,500,000. The iron ore mined, sold and shipped in 
1885 reached 2,466,872 gross tons; in 1886, 3,568,022; 
in 1887, 4,730,557; in 1888, 5,025,277; and in 1889, 
5,856,169. The Michigan product is valued at $16,000,- 

ooo a year ; and has more than trebled in the last five years. The Menominee Range 
began its output in 1877, and has yielded 12,000,000 tons, averaging latterly 1,800,000 
tons yearly. The Gogebic and Vermilion Ranges were opened in 1884, and the former 
ships 1,200,000 tons a year. Their united product has amounted to 8,000,000 tons. The 
Norrie Mine alone gives half a million tons yearly. The Marquette Range has yielded 
over 30,000,000 tons of ore, and still leads the other districts in its yearly output. The 
Schlesinger syndicate is a combination of New-York and Berlin capitalists, who have already 
acquired 15 mines, valued at $10,000,000, and yielding millions of tons a year. They 
opened in 1890 a railway of 54 miles, from Iron Mountain east to the docks at Escanaba, 
on Lake Michigan. The Cleveland Iron Mining Company recently paid $1,750,000 for 
seven tenths of the Iron-Cliff district, near Marquette. The Michigan ores are of unpar- 
alleled richness, reaching an average of 63 per cent, 
for the best grades, and making the purest and most 
refractory iron in America. The mountain ranges 
send thousands of cargoes yearly to the great 
rolling-mills of Chicago, Cleveland and Pitts- 
burgh, without missing them. Marquette, on 
Iron Bay, opening from Lake Superior, under the 
lee of the beautiful Presque Isle (granted by Con- 
gress for a city park), is one of the chief outlets 
of the great iron country, with large shipping in- 
terests. Escanaba is another important shipping point, near the mouth of Longfellow's 
"Rushing Escanawba," and on a bay of Lake Michigan, amid much beauty of scenery. 
The trappean mountains of Keweenaw Point, 600 to 1,200 feet high, and projecting 70 miles 
into Lake Superior, contain the richest copper-mines in the world, where are found masses 
of pure virgin copper, only needing to be cut out of the rocks. The Indians used to make 
implements from this metal, centuries ago, and believed that Keweenaw was the home of a 
dreadful demon. These mines of the Upper Peninsula have produced $200,000,000 worth 
of ore. They employ nearly 6,000 men, one fifth being Americans, and the rest English- 
men, Finns and French Canadians. The copper-belt is 135 miles long, and from one to six 
miles wide. The output of copper in 1845 '^^^ twelve tons ; in 188S it reached 38,000 tons, 
valued at $12,000,000. It is claimed that the Calumet and Hecla is the most profitable 
mine in the world, having paid in dividends $32,000,000, 
within 20 years. The Tamarack, Quincy and other mines 
have also given large profits to their owners. 
The Tamarack-Osceola combination have a 
rolling-mill at Dollar Bay, near the mines. The 
singular tenacity of Michigan copper gives it 
great value for cartridges, and it is in demand 
by the military nations for this purpose. 

In 1888 deposits of gold were discovered, 
near Ishpeming ; and several mines are now in 







LANSING : REFORM SCHOOL FOR BOYS. 




BATTLE CREEK I BATTLE-CREEK COLLEGE. 



THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



471 




HOUSE OF CORRECTION 



syenite occur in large masses. 



zm 



operation, in the auriferous quartz, shipping large quantities 
of bullion and concentrates. The Lake-Superior region 
also produces silver, agate, sardonyx, chalcedony, cornelian, 
jasper and opals. Roofing-slate and freestone are quarried 
at Arvon, twelve miles from L'Anse ; brown freestone and 
mottled marble at Marquette ; and limestone at Drum- 
mond's Island. Here, also, is found an excellent quartz, 
used in lining Bessemer-steel converters ; and granite and 
The Michigan Mining School, founded by the legislative act 
of 18S5, occupies a building of Lake- Superior sandstone, erected in 1888-9, ^.t Houghton, 
overlooking Portage Lake. Its chief studies are petrography, metallurgy, geology, miner- 
alogy, chemistry and engineering, with frequent excursions to the great copper and iron 
mines and works near by. Tuition is free to residents of Michigan. The jagged capes and 
far-retiring bays around the Upper Peninsula have much grandeur of scenery, and attract 
great numbers of vacation-tourists every summer. The Pictured Rocks are a series of seven 
miles of sandstone cliffs, rising 300 feet sheer from the waters of Lake Superior, worn by 
the waves into many strange and fantastic shapes, as of castles, towers, chapels, gates, sails 
and profiles, in vivid tints of gray and green, umber and vermilion, blue and yellow, and 
extending eastward from the beautiful Munising harbor to the desolate yellow sand-hills of 
the Sables, 30 miles west of Sault Ste. -Marie. At one point the Silver Cascade plunges 175 
feet sheer over the cliffs, and scores of other waterfalls gem the lonely walls of rock. This 
is in the heart of Hiawatha's country, and the wigwam of 
Nokomis stood on the site of the half-ruined and deserted 
port of Munising, facing the Big Sea Water. 

Isle Royale, 55 miles from Keweenaw Point, and 15 
miles from the Canadian shore, is 45 miles by nine miles 
in area, with rocky and indented shores and great woods, 
and hills 700 feet high. Copper was mined here by the 
pre-historic races, and has been worked recently by less 
primitive processes. Drummond's Island, one of the Man- 
itoulin group, belongs to the United States, and is 20 miles long, with rocky and irregular 
shores, separated from the mainland by the Detour Passage. 

The Government of Michigan rests in a biennially elected governor and executive 
officers ; a legislature, usually holding sessions from January 1st to July 1st every other year ; 
and a supreme court of five elective judges, for terms of ten years, with 29 circuit courts — 
the judges elective for terms of six years. The State House at Lansing was erected in 1872-8, 
at a cost of $1,500,000, of Amherst (Ohio) sandstone. The State Library numbers 48,000 
volumes. 

The Michigan State Troops are well organized, and include 2,418 volunteers, organ- 
ized into a brigade, composed of the First, Second, Third and Fourth Regiments of Infan- 
try. They encamp five days of each summer, in company with a battalion of United-States 
regulars. The Michigan Soldiers' Home occupies an imposing structure near Grand Rapids, 
dedicated in 1886, and taking care of 450 veterans of the campaigns of the civil war. 

The Charities and Correc- 
tions of Michigan include the State 
Prison, at Jackson, with 750 con- 
victs ; the House of Correction and 
Reformatory at Ionia, 390 ; the In- 
' dustrial Home for Girls, at Adrian, 
220; and the State Reform School 
for Boys, on a large farm near Lan- 
HiLLSDALE I HILLSDALE COLLEGE. sing, 460. Thc State House of 




DETROIT ; THE HARPER HOSPITAL. 




412 



KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




Correction and Prison, 
Upper Peninsula, is at 
Marquette, and dates from 
1889. It occupies a castel- 
lated building of Lake- Superior 
sandstone. The State Public School 



for Dependent Children is a noble 



and useful institution, on a farm of 120 acres, at Coldwater. The inmates are 200 healthy 
children, between two and twelve years old, who must otherwise have been maintained and 
educated by the State, which also finds homes for them. The Michigan School for the 
Deaf, at Flint, dating from 1854, cares for 300 inmates, teaching them printing, sewing, 
carpentering, shoe-making, and cabinet-work. The School for the Blind, at Lansing, has 
90 inmates, who are taught broom-making and piano-tuning. The several counties support 
their own insane poor in the great institutions, which have cost the State $4,cxx3,ooo. The 
Michigan Asylum, at Kalamazoo, has 860 inmates ; the Eastern Asylum, at Pontiac, 800 ; 
the Northern Asylum, at Traverse City, 600 ; and the Asylum for Insane Criminals, 240 

Education was early provided for by grants of land, and the proceeds of their sales are 
held by the State as a fund, whose interest goes toward the support of the schools. The 
primary-school fund amounts to $5,000,000. The school property is valued at $13,000,000. 
The income from the funds is supplemented by local taxes. The State Normal School is at 
Ypsilanti, and there are training classes and schools elsewhere, while teachers' reading cir- 
cles and institutes do valuable work. The graded schools include primary, grammar and 
high schools, pupils studying four years in each, and passing to the University by diploma. 

The University of Michigan, one of the greatest of American educational institutions, 
dates its origin from 1817, when Chief-Justice Woodward drew up "An act to establish 
the Catholipistemiad, or University of Michigania." The institution had already been 
provided for by a Congressional land-grant, but it did not begin work until 1841. The 
United-States grant is worth $500,000 ; the State appropriated $1,200,000 ; and Ann Arbor, 
where the University is established, has made generous gifts. It is the culmination of the 



THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



413 




DETROIT : MUSEUM OF ART. 



mainly from 
So from the 



public-school system, and offers its privileges without charge for 
tuition, to young men or women. The literary department 
has 1,000 students ; the department of medicine and 
surgery (founded in 1849), 370; the Law Department 
(1858), 525; Pharmacy (1869), 80; the Homoeopathic 
Medical College (1875), 7° 5 ^^^ College of Dental Sur- 
gery (1875), 100. The General Library contains 60,000 
volumes, including several remarkable special collections ; 
and there are 14,000 volumes in the law and medical 
libraries. The museum has 400,000 specimens. There 
are magnificent equipments in science and art ; and 
the new laboratory for chemical study is exceptionally 
large. Advanced students follow the German Sem- 
inary method of instruction. There have been many women students in the University, 
since their admission in 1870. Nearly half the students are from Michigan, the rest being 
the West, with 150 from the Middle States, 50 from the South, 
Pacific States, 25 from New England, 50 from Canada, 20 from 
Japan and 10 from Europe, the total number in attendance being 
2,162, of whom 368 are women. 

The Michigan State Agricultural College, near Lan- 
sing, has 27 instructors and 320 students. The mechanic 
arts are taught here, and horticultural and veterinary 
science, with military drill. The State Mining School 
is at Houghton. Olivet College was founded in 1844, 
as a daughter of Congregational and Anti-Slavery Ober- 
and a granddaughter of New England. It has a 
I campus of 20 acres, with the beautiful new library, Ship- 
herd Hall (for girl-students) and other buildings. There 
are 16 instructors and 200 students. Hope College, at 
liolland, was founded in 185 1 by a colony of Holland- 
ers, who had left their native country in search of religious freedom. It has seven profes- 
sors and 46 students, with loo in the grammar-school, eight in the Western Theological 
Seminary of the Reformed Church in America, and 150 in the Summer Normal School. 
Adrian College, founded in 1859, ^^^ twelve instructors and six schools, including the 
divinity school of the Methodist Protestant Church. Kalamazoo College owns several good 
buildings, in a campus of 25 acres on a far-viewing hill. The new Ladies' Hall is one of its 








KALAMAZOO : THE OPERA HOUSE. 




DETROIT, THE CITY OF THE STRAITS, FROM WINDSOR. 

chief features. Albion College belongs to the Methodists, and has, in all departments, 440 
pupils. Battle-Creek College is the chief school of the Seventh-Day Baptists in America ; 
and Hillsdale College is a famous Free Baptist institution. Among the secondary schools 
are the Michigan Military Academy, at Orchard Lake, with eight instructors and 120 cadets; 
Michigan Female Seminary, at Kalamazoo ; and the Jesuit institution of Detroit College. 



414 



A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




YOUNG MEN'S CHRISTIAN 
ASSOCIATION. 



Ne^wspapers began here with The Michigan Essay and 
Impartial Observer, printed in 1809, on a press brought west by 
Father Richard, the Catholic leader at Detroit. The Detroit 
Gazette hega.n in 1817; the Detroit Tree Tress, in 1826; and the 
Michiga7i Emigrant, at Ann Arbor, in 1827. The Michigan 
press now includes 673 periodicals, of which 44 are daily and 
53 monthly. Twenty-five of these are devoted to religion, 
eleven to science, seven to colleges, and a dozen or more to the 
lumber and mining interests. Two are in the French language, 
two in Finnish, four in Swedish, seven in Holland Dutch, and 
22 in German. 

The largest of the public libraries are those of Detroit, 
1 00, 000 volumes; Kalamazoo, 12,000; Bay City, 10,000; Grand 
Rapids, 17,000; and West Bay City, 12,000. Hope College 
has 30,000; and Olivet, 14,000; and the State and University 
libraries are still larger. In 1890 Charles H. Hackley presented to Muskegon a beautiful 
fire-proof library building, of Maine granite and Marquette brownstone, with many thousand 
books, the gift amounting to $175,000. 

The Detroit | Museum of Art keeps its rich collections in a handsome Romanesque 
building of 1 stone. The Ladies' Library at Kalamazoo has attractive quarters; 
and the Opera ^^ House is a master-work of the architects, Adler & Sullivan. 

Chief Cities. — The metropolis of Michigan is Detroit, a hand- 
some city 18 miles from Lake Erie, and on the outlet of 
the upper Great Lakes, with a good harbor and an 
immense maritime and railway traffic, mainly in 
grain, wool, pork, and copper. It extends along 
Detroit River (half a mile wide) for seven miles, 
facing the Canadian village of Windsor. Great 
public buildings adorn the city, which has also many 
important factories. It ranks as one of the five 
chief lake-ports. The Harper Hospital ; the sol- 
diers' monument, designed by Randolph Rogers, and built at a cost of $60,000; the 700- 
acre park on Belle Isle ; and the Bagley fountain on the Campus Martins, from which the 
principal avenues radiate, are among the interesting features of the City of the Straits. 
Fort Wayne, near Detroit, covers an area of 65 acres with its batteries and parade-ground, 
and commands the river with heavy ordnance. It is occupied by a small garrison of United- 
States troops. The United-States Marine Hospital is on the river-bank, near Detroit. At 
Grand Rapids the Grand River falls 18 feet in a mile, affording a valuable water-power, with 




DETROIT ; THE CITY HALL. 



canals on each side and many busy furniture factories, and convergiu: 
is the second city in the State, with 50 churches, and the United- 
for Western Michigan. Lansing, which succeeded Detroit as the capi- 
a small manufacturing city on both sides of Grand River, with sev- 
State institutions. Muskegon's great lumber-mills and pleasant streets 
handsome Muskegon Lake, four miles from Lake Michigan, 
and on several railways. Saginaw is the capital of the 
Saginaw-Bay lumber and salt region, and has furniture 
and other factories extending for a league along the 
Saginaw River, and producing an immense revenue every 
year. Bay City and West Bay City lie at the mouth of 
the Saginaw, and export vast quantities of salt, lumber 
and fish. Port Huron is a ship-building town, opposite 
Port Sarnia, on the outlet of Lake Huron, with large 



railroads. It 
States courts 
tal, in 1847, is 
eral important 
lie along the 




Wfei; 



THE SOLDIERS' MONUMENT. 



THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



415 



shipments of grain, lumber and wool. Ann Arbor, in the Huron valley of southern Mich- 
igan, is the seat of the great State University. Adrian, on the Raisin, is also a college-town, 
and the manufacturing and trade centre of a rich farming country. Battle Creek and Albion, 



on the Kala- 
has a great 
railways 
Ypsilanti IS 
is a lumber 




DETROIT MICHIGAN CENTRAL RAILROAD STATION 



mazoo, are college and manufacturing towns. Flint, on Flint River, 
water power Jackson, in the south centre, has many factories and 
Kalamazoo is a college-town, with a considerable country trade, 
one of the centres of the southeastern farming country. Alpena 
1 1, at the head of Thunder Bay. 

The chief ports of the Lake-Michigan shore are 
St. Joseph, in the fruit-belt ; Grand Haven, which 
also has prosperous seasons as a summer-resort ; 
Muskegon, with its multiplying industries and its 
factories of toys, wooden-ware and pianos ; Trav- 
rse City, with lumber-mills and foundries, and a 
beautiful bay and a back country bright with many 
lakes ; and Petoskey, with a considerable patronage 
as a summer-resort, being one of the places exempt 
from the hay-fever, and near famous fishing-grounds among the forest-lakes. One mile north 
of Petoskey, on high ground, with long pebbly beaches, is the great Bay-View Camp-ground, 
a summer-resort with many cottages. The chief places about the Straits are St. Ignace, with 
its smelting-works ; Cheboygan, a lumber port ; and Mackinac. 
Michigan has more Canadians (148,866) and more Holland- 
ers (17,177) than any other State. The Indians of Michigan 
include the Vieux-Desert, L'Anse and Ontonagon bands of Chip- 
pewas, on the Upper Peninsula, numbering about 6,000; 600 
Chippewas on the Isabella Reservation, near Mt. Pleasant ; and 
the Pottawattomies of Huron, on the Lower Peninsula. 

The Finances of Michigan mainly centre in Detroit, the 
metropolitan city, and one of the dozen great centres of the 
Republic. Foremost among the monetary institutions of the 
State stands the First National Bank of Detroit, with resources 
of over $4,000,000, a capital of $500,000, and surplus and un- 
divided profits of $200,000. This financial corporation dates 
from 1863, and was re-incorporated in 1882, for a period of 20 
years. It has always been regarded as one of the most successful and conservatively man- 
aged banks in the Lake States, and has extended timely and valuable assistance to many 
enterprises that are now powerful in influence and wealth. Emory Wendell is the president 
of the First National Bank ; and the directorate includes men who have large fortunes, and 
are prominent in mercantile, manufacturing and professional pursuits in Detroit. 

Railroads. — The Detroit & vSt. -Joseph, Detroit & Pontiac, and Michigan Southern 
lines were chartered here in 1832; and a few years later the State began the building of 
several routes. In 1836, 63 miles were built; and eight years later the Michigan Central 

reached Kalamazoo (143 miles), and the Mich- 
igan Southern reached Hillsdale (66 miles), 
with their odd little stage-coach cars and strap- 
rails. After the State became financially em- 
barrassed, its railways were sold to private 
corporations, which have advanced the system 
so efficiently that 80 out of the 84 counties 
are now on their lines, the total cost of which 
amounts to $240,000,000. In 1884 only eight 
KALAMAZOO : MICHIGAN-CENTRAL RAILROAD STATION. out of 6o Michigan Tailways paid dividends. 




LtTliOIT ; FIRST 





V 



^.^^-1 -'^' 





PORT HURON Ai.D THb ST. CLAIR RIVER. 



416 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

The Lake -Shore & 
Michigan Southern 
and the Michigan Cen- 
tral lines are parts of 
the great transconti- 
nental systems, be- 
tween the Atlantic sea- 
board and Chicago, 
and serve large areas 
of southern Michigan 
with their branches. 
The Lake-Shore 
reaches Grand Rapids 
and Lansing, Jackson 

and Ypsilanti, Monroe and Detroit. The Michigan Central crosses southern Michigan from 
Chicago to Detroit, Niagara Falls, Buffalo and the East ; and has branches to South Haven, 
Grand Rapids, Saginaw and the North. It is a favorite route between Chicago and New 
York, with swift and luxurious trains. The Chicago & Grand Trunk Railway joins Chicago 
with the Grand Trunk system of Canada, at Port Huron, and has subsidiarylines from Jack- 
son and Detroit to Port Huron, and from Detroit west across the Lower Peninsula to Grand 
Haven and Muskegon. There are several important north and south lines, 
including the Michigan Central route from Detroit to Bay City and Mackinac, 
on the east, and the Grand-Rapids & Indiana on the west (from Richmond to 
Mackinac, 460 miles), each of which runs north to the Strait of Mackinaw. 
Several lines of railway cross the Lower Peninsula from east to west, and 
connect the ports on the Great Lakes. The Upper Peninsula is trav- 
ersed by the Duluth, South-Shore & Atlantic, from Duluth east to Sault 
Ste. -Marie (410 miles), connecting there with the Canadian Paci- 
fic route for New England. Branches run to St. Ignace, on the 
Strait of Mackinaw ; and to Houghton, on the Keweenaw Penin- 
sula. The Minneapolis, St. -Paul & Sault-Ste. -Marie line runs 
from Minneapolis to the Soo (494 miles), connecting there with 
the Canadian Pacific. Several railways coming north from Chicago intersect these two 
routes, on the Upper Peninsula. The railway systems of Michigan and Canada are con- 
nected by powerful steam ferry-boats between Detroit and Windsor. The tunnel under the 
St. -Clair River, from Port Huron to Port Sarnia, the only iron cylinder tunnel in America, 
is a mammoth iron tube, 7,000 feet long and 20 feet in diameter, built in sections and bolted 
together as fast as the 600 laborers cut their way forward, from both ends, through the stiff 
blue clay. It is lighted by electricity, heated by steam-pipes, and kept filled with pure air 
by powerful engines. This greatest river tunnel in the world was opened in 189 1. 

The Manufactories of Michigan are 9,000 in number, with over 80,000 operatives, 
$100,000,000 in invested capital, and a yearly product of $150,000,000. Thirty million 
dollars of this is in flour, and there are immense 
manufactories of walnut and other furniture, and 
of iron and steel. Among the interesting manu- 
factures are the wooden bowls of Bellaire, the 
windmills of Lyons, the batting of Centreville, the 

broom-handles of LeRoy, the pumps of Chelsea, IdU^^B '^BR|||||'|Pfl'l'S'P|?f]|ll|f| 
the corsets of Jackson, the wood alcohol of Elk ^^gH|i^|fe|i||s^JvSi?Nfli^ 
Rapids, the hammocks of Homer, the wooden- 
ware of Petoskey, the bee-hives of Wayland, the 
wood-pulp of Utica, the toys of Muskegon, the kalamazoo ; American wheel company7 




DETROIT : FIRE-ENGINE HOUSE. 




THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



417 




DETROIT : DETROIT DRY-DOCK COMPANY. 



veneers of St. Ignace, the wheelbarrows of Lan- 
sing, the wheels of Kalamazoo, and the Balding 
Bros, silk-mills, at Belding. 

The important industry of building the safe 
and splendid passenger and freight steamships for 
traffic on the Great Lakes has been to a large ex- 
tent developed by the Detroit Dry-Dock Com- 
pany. The ship-building business founded in 
1852 by John Owen, Capt. Gordon Campbell and 
others, was incorporated under the above name 
in 1872, and does a business of $i,500,ocx) a year, 
and employs 800 men. The company builds and equips the largest steamers, ready for sea- 
service, usually of iron, wood or steel, and with triple-expansion engines. The yards for 
building wooden ships cover 13 acres, and have four dry-docks, the chief of which is 400 
feet long. A wooden vessel was built here 298^ feet long, and of 2,076 tons burden, with 
a cargo-capacity of 2,600 tons. The shipyards at Wyandotte cover eleven acres, and have 
launchways for building five iron, steel or composite vessels. One of the steel steamships 
constructed here (the Maryland) has a length of 337 feet, with a tonnage of 2,500, and a 
cargo capacity of 3,700 tons. The engine-works cover nearly three acres, with a complete 
plant for building marine engines and boilers. These three various plants are operated 
from the company's office at Detroit. 

The railways of this continent employ about 
1,100,000 freight cars, one tenth of which have 
to be replaced every year. One of the chief 
sources of supply is the Michigan Car Company, 
founded in 1864, at West Detroit, by James Mc- 
Millan (now United-States Senator). The first 
refrigerator-cars came from these works, and 
three fourths of the cars of this kind in use are 
manufactured here, besides box and flat cars, 
coal and tank cars, ore and stock cars, snow- 
plows and cabooses, to the number of nearly 10,000 a year. Repairs are also made here 
upon cars sent in from all the country between Ohio and Wyoming. The Detroit Car- Wheel 
Company, with substantially the same stock-holders and officers as the car company, has 
its works in the same enclosure, with a daily capacity of 425 cast-iron wheels and 100 tons 
of other castings. Another allied corporation is the Michigan Forge & Iron Company, 
whose works at Spring Wells (Detroit) turn out wrought-iron bars and axles, heavy forg- 
ings, and links and pins, mainly used by the car company. The Detroit Pipe and Foundry 
Company make cast-iron water and gas mains, culverts and drainage pipes ; and four fifths 
of the cast-iron lining of the great Detroit-River Tunnel at Port Huron came from its 

works. These four allied 
corporations employ 3,000 
men, and produce yearly 
$6,000,000 worth of cars 
and specialties for the rail- 
way companies. 

The pretty city of Beld- 
ing has grown up around 
the Belding silk-mills, one 
of the extensive establish- 
ments of Belding Bros. & 
Company. 




WYANDOTTE : DETROIT DRY-DOCK COMPANY. 




DETROIT ! MICHIGAN CAR COMPANY, 



4i8 



J^IA^G'S HANDBOOK OF THE U KITED STATES. 




GRAND RAPIDS : BISSELL CARPET-SWEEPER COMPANY. 



Four fifths of the carpet-sweepers made in the world 
come from the BisscU Carpet-Sweeper Company's factories 
at Grand Rapids, founded by Melville R. Bissell in 1876. 
'^^p,z-^ These works employ 300 hands, making daily 1, 200 
sweepers, which are sold all over the Union, and 
from the company's ware-rooms in London and 
Paris, and agencies in 22 foreign countries. This 
is by far the foremost corporation of the kind in 
the world, and maintains a department of inven- 
tion, to which is due the many patents and devices 
constantly originated and made practical in this 
business. Since Mr. Bissell founded the company, 
the carpet-sweeper has developed from a mechanical brush, of little value except for picking 
up crumbs and light dirt, to a mechanical broom, less laborious in operation than the old 
methods of sweeping, and more effective and desirable. The famous broom action, invented 
in 1880, with its thorough work on every kind of carpet, has advanced the Bissell Carpet- 
Sweeper Company to an unapproachable supremacy, recognized by all house-keepers ; and the 
products now number over a hundred varieties of styles and constructions, finish and devices. 
In Detroit are the main laboratories and home offices of Parke, Davis & Company, 
manufacturing chemists and pharmacists. Their branch establishments are at New York, 
Kansas City, London, England, and Walkerville, Ont. Their products are adopted by the 
medical profession throughout the world. The Detroit establishment covers over five 
acres of floor space and gives employment to some 700 educated people. Their laboratories 
form one of the finest manufacturing plants in America, and the extensive group of handsome 
brick buildings comprises one of the most notable sights 
in Michigan. From a very modest beginning this has 
grown to be an enterprise of the first magnitude ; the 
corporation having a paid-up capital of $i,ooo,ocK). 
The secret of its growth, which is phenomenal, even 
when compared with any manufacturing business, lies in 
three fundamental principles ; the superior quality and 
uniformity of its products ; its devotion to the mutual 
interests of pharmacists and physicians ; and its enter- 
prise in investigating new drugs, eligible forms of exhibiting old remedies, and improved 
processes of manufacture. These investigations have resulted in bringing to the attention 
of the medical profession many indispensable remedies, permanently placed in the pharma- 
copoeias of America and Great Britain. Parke, Davis & Co.'s specialties include pharma- 
ceutical preparations, fine chemicals, digestive ferments, empty capsules and other gelatine 
products, pressed herbs, and the superior food products of the Mosquera-Julia Food Co. 

" Its borders are so many vast prairies, and the freshness of the waters keeps the banks 
always green. The hand of the pitiless reaper has never mown the luxuriant grass upon 
which fatten many buffaloes of magnificent size and proportion. The fish are here nour- 
ished and bathed by living waters of crystal clearness, and their great abundance renders 

them none the less delicious. I asked a savage if there 
was much game there. 'So much,' he said, 'that they 
drew up in lines to let the boats pass through.'" — Cad- 
illac, ON Michigan. 

Distances between Lake Ports: Detroit to 
Saginaw River, 207 miles ; Mackinac, 303 ; Milwaukee, 
569 ; Chicago, 634 ; Sault Ste. Marie, 345 ; Marquette, 
504 ; Duluth, 742 ; Toledo, 57 ; Cleveland, 105 ; Buf- 
belding: belding BROS. &. CO.'S SILK-MILL. falo, 255 > Montreal, 629. 




DETROIT : PARKE, DAVIS 




ti&rsiioiisip 




The aborigines of Min- 
nesota were the Chippe- 

was, occupying more than 

half the State, in its forest 

and lake regions ; and the 

Dakotas (latterly called 

Sioux), roaming over the 

open prairies. The Chip- 

pewas were woods Indians, 

with canoes ; the Dakotas 
were plains Indians, with ponies. The two nations were 
hereditary enemies, and the Upper Mississippi Valley was 
the debateable ground between them. Their local names, 
Winona, Mendota, Anoka, Wapashaw, Kasota and many 
others, are their imperishable memorials in the valley of the 
Mississippi. The Dakotas were divided into the Isanyati, 
Ihanktonwan (Yankton), and Titonwan clans. The Assin- 
inboines, along the Rainy River, broke off from their Dakota 
brethren, as a result of an ancient Paris and Helen tragedy, 
and remained their inveterate enemies. The religious rites 
and beliefs, the legends and traditions, of the Dakotas are 
of singular interest, and have inspired a large body of lit- 
erature. The first white visitors to these shores were 
French fur-traders, who came hither as early as 1659. 
They were followed by missionary priests, who laid down 
their lives gladly for their holy cause, but made no impres- 
sion on the fierce Northwestern savages. In 1679 Du Luth 
established the first trading-posts in Minnesota ; planted 
the royal arms of France among the Sisseton Sioux ; and 
visited Mille Lacs. In 1680 Father Hennepin and two 
French traders ascended the Mississippi to St. -Anthony's 
Falls ; artd they were borne thence to the Dakota villages 
near Mille Lacs. In 1688 Perrot founded, on Lake Pepin, 
the first French establishment in Minnesota; and thereafter, 
for nearly 80 years, the missionaries and traders of France visited the Upper Mississippi, and 
dwelt in little forts between Lake Superior and the great river. After France surrendered 
its vast American empire to Great Britain, an adventurous Connecticut man, Jonathan 



STATISTICS. 



Fort Snelling. 
. . 1819 

Americans. 



Settled at ... . 
Settled in ... . 
Founded by . . . 
Admitted as a State, 
Population in i860, 

In 1870 

In 1880 

White, . . 

Colored, . . . 

American-born, 

Foreign-born, . 

Males, . . . 

Females, . . 

In 1890 (U. S. Censu; . 

Population to the square 

Voting Population (1880), . 

Vote for Harrison {1888), 

Vote for Cleveland (1888), 
Net Stale iJcDt, .... 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . . $589 
Area (square miles), . . . 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 
Militia (Disciplined), . . 

Counties, 

Post-offices, 

Railroads (miles) 

Vessels 

'ronuage 

Manufactures (j-early), $7f 

Operatives, 

Yearly Wages, . . . $i 
Farm Land (in acres), 

Farm-Land Values, $193,724,260 

Farm Products (yearly), $49,468,951 
Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 111,641 

Newspapers 476 

Latitude, ... 43''3o' to 49' N. 
Longitude, . . 89^29' to 97''5' W. 
Temperature, . . . — 54° to 103° 
Mean Temperature (St. Paul), 42° 



172,023 

439,70b 

780,773 

776,884 

3,889 

513.097 

267,676 

419,149 

361,624 

1,301,826 

le, 9.8 

213,485 

142,492 

104 385 



000,000 

83,365 

7 

1,907 

80 

1,309 

5.466 I 

89 

9,591 

,065,198 

21,212 

,613,194 

13,403.019 



TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890.) 

Minneapolis, 164,738 

St. Paul, 133,156 

Duluth, 33.115 

Wmona 18,208 

Stillwater, 11,260 

Mankato 8,838 

St. Cloud 7,686 

Faribault, 6,520 

Red Wing 6,294 

Brainerd, 5,703 



420 



'AVA^G'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LAKE MINNETONKA. 



Carver, ascended the Mississippi to the falls (in 1766), 
and sojourned among the Dakotas on the Minnesota 
River. During most of the remainder of the cen- 
tury the country was occupied by the fur-trading posts 
of the Northwestern Company. Minnesota was made 
up of two sections. The part east of the Mississippi 
belonged to New France, discovered and owned by 
the French, and ceded to Great Britain in 1763. A 
vast area of this domain, along the Ohio, was con- 
quered by George Rogers Clark, in 1778, and annexed 
to Virginia, which ceded it to the United States, under the name of "The Territory North- 
west of the River Ohio," in 1784. The part of Minnesota west of the Mississippi belonged 
to the province of Louisiana, and remained nominally under French rule until 1763, when 
it was ceded to Spain, and pertained to that Government for 40 years. In 1803 it passed 
into the possession of the United States, by virtue of the Louisiana Purchase from France 
(to which it had been retroceded). 

The first United-States officer to visit Minnesota was Lieut. Zebulon M. Pike, who 
came hither in 1805, to expel the lingering British traders; and obtained from the Sioux a 
grant of nine miles square, including the site of Fort Snelling and the Falls of St. Anthony. 
The country remained in the hands of the fur-traders and the Indians until 1820, when 
Col. Leavenworth and the Fifth United-States Infantry built Fort Snelling, and Gov. Lewis 
Cass and Henrv R. S'-Tr^olcraft explored the valley. Three years later, the first steamboat 
^_ . - ,; (the Virginia) ascended the Mississippi into Minnesota, 

and frightened all the Indians out of Mendota ; and Maj. 
Long's detachment explored the Minnesota valley, to 
Big-Stone Lake ; and Count Beltrami discovered the 
source of the Mississippi. In 1832 the Rev. Wm. T. 
Boutwell opened a mission among the Chippewas ; and 
in 1834 H. H. Sibley settled at Mendota. In 1 836-7 the 
region of St. Paul received its first settlers, a group of 
Swiss colonists, retreating from the inclement Hudson's-Bay Terri- 
tory, where they had been planted by the eccentric Lord Selkirk. 
In 1836 Nicollet, a Swiss scientific person, encamped three days at 
Lake Itasca, and explored and mapped all its inlets. In 1834 
Samuel W. and Gideoii H. Pond began their mission-work, at Lake Calhoun ; followed, 
the next year, by Dr. T. S. Williamson, at Lac qui Parle. Stephen R. Riggs came in 1837. 
In those days there were myriads of buffalo in Minnesota, and the red hunters pursued them 
undisturbed over the immeasurable prairies. In 1850 the Minnesota Historical Society 
began its noble labors ; and the steamers Anthony Wayne and Nominee ascended the Min- 
nesota River nearly to Mankato, followed by the Yankee, which went nearly to New Ulm. 
Meantime, the Sioux and Chippewas had been killing each other off, as the result of a.feud 

extending back for centuries ; and those spared by the toma- 

hawk had been decimated by famine and small-jjox. As the 
white settlements advanced up the great river, the domains 
of the savages were bought up by the Government, and the 
fragments of the tribes receded toward Dakota. 

The population rose from 4,000 in 1849 to 172,000 in 
i860; and the cultivated area from 15,000 acres in 1854 to 
433,000 acres in i860. The troops sent by Minnesota into 
the late civil war included 1 1 regiments and I battalion of 
infantry, I regiment of heavy artillery, 2 regiments and 2 
battalions of cavalry, 3 batteries, and 2 companies of 




FORT SNELLIh 




BAHN BLUFF . MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 



\ 



THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 



421 



^IN\ESOTA LAK 




*®« 



sharpshooters, numbering in all 25,052 men. 
In 1862, when the army garrisons and 5,000 of 
the able-bodied men of Minnesota were cam- 
paigning in the South, the Sioux broke into re- 
bellion, and inside of two days cruelly killed 
800 whites in the State. Fort Ridgely and 
New Ulm repulsed the savages, and Col. Sibley 
entered the devastated country with a strong 
.column of volunteers, defeating the Sioux at 

Wood Lake, and rescuing 150 white captives, who had alieady suf- 
fered unspeakable outrages. Four hundred red warriors became 
prisoners, and 38 of them were hung on one scaffold, at Mankato. A >- ^-» \. ^ .t^ 
subsequent campaign, carried into Dakota, completed the terrible work of punishment. 

In its Territorial days Minnesota issued bonds to a large amount in aid of railway con- 
struction. The companies defaulted payment, and the State turned the plants over to other 
corporations. But the bonds remained to be paid, and the questions of how or whether to 
pay them were the chief local topics for many years. A popular vote in 1882 arranged for 
a sinking-fund to meet this $4,000,000. 

The Name Minnesota comes from the Dakota language, Alinne signifying "Water." 
Sotah means "Blear," or, as the Historical Society explains it, the peculiar appearance of 
the sky on certain days, neither white nor blue, giving the name of the State as "Sky- 
tinted Waters. " It was originally applied by the Dakotas to the Minnesota River. \ it- 
tempts were made to have the State named Chippeway, Itasca, Washington, or Jackson. 
The pet names of Minnesota are The North-Star State, from the motto on its seal ; 
The Gopher State, because it used to be infested with these animals ; and The Lake State, 
from its myriad of interior lakes. 

The Arms of Minnesota were devised by Gov. Ramsey and Henry H. Sibley, in 
1849-50. They bear : the Falls of St. Anthony in the distance ; a pioneer ploughing the 
prairie on the borders of the Indian country, full of hope and looking forward to the pos- 
session of the hunting-grounds beyond ; an Indian, amazed at the sight of the plough, and 
fleeing on horseback toward the setting sun. The motto was Qiue siirsiim volo videre, "I 
wish to see what is above ;" but this was wrecked into incomprehensibility by an ignorant 
engraver; and subsequently the phrase, DEtoile du N'ord, "The Star of the North," was 
adopted in its place, by Gov. Sibley, on account of the north- 
erly location of the State in the Union. 

The Governors of Minnesota 
have been : l^rritorial : Alex. Ram- 
sey, 1849-53 ; Willis A. Gorman, 
1853-7; Samuel Medary, 1857-8; 
State: Henry H. Sibley, 1858-60; 
Alex. Ramsey, 1 860-3 5 Henry A. 
Swift, 1863-64; Stephen Miller, 1864 
-6; Wm. R. Marshall, 1 866-70; 
Horace Austin, 1870-4; Cushman K. 
Davis, 1874-6; John S. Pillsbury, 
1876-82; Lucius F. Hubbard, 1882 
-7 ; Andrew R. McGill, 1887-9 5 and 
Wm. R. Merriam, 1889-93. 

Descriptive. — Minnesota is one 
of the northern tier of States, reach- 
ing up to the 49th parallel, and 
bounded beyond by the Canadian 




WINONA. SUGAR LOAF. MISSISSIPPI RIVER, FROM FORT SNELLING, 



422 



A'/yC\S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




WHITE-BEAR LAKE. 



provinces of Manitoba and Keewatin. The Dakotas 
lie along its western border, and Iowa on the south ; 
and the east rests on Wisconsin and Lake Superior. It 
covers an area much greater than that of New Eng- 
land, mainly an undulating plain from 800 to 1,000 
feet above the sea. The centre and south are rolling 
prairies, beautiful with flashing lakes and silvery 
streams. In the eastern part of this prairie country, 
the long strip of the Big Woods, covering 5,000 square miles, runs south from St. Cloud 
to Le Sueur, where it crosses the Minnesota, and sends branches toward Faribault and 
Mankato. It is lOO miles long, and from ten to 40 miles wide, and four fifths of it lies 
north of the Minnesota. This great belt of hardwood timber is one of the most valuable 
deciduous forests in the West. The Park region lies above the Big Woods, with a vast 
area of undulating prairie, agreeably diversified with oak-groves and shining lakes, and 
melting away into the Red-River prairies. The Heights of Land (^Hatdeiirs des Terres), 
are a line of flat-topped sandhills, from 400 to 600 feet above the prairies, separating the 
Mississippi waters from those flowing to Lake Superior. The Leaf Mountains {Coteaii dii 
Grand Bens') run 150 miles south from this ridge, near Lake Itasca, 1,400 feet high. North 
of the line of Duluth and Moorhead a great belt of pine-woods extends from Lake Superior 
across the sources of the Mississippi to the Red River. Beyond the prairies, to the north- 
ward, a lofty wilderness of tamaracks and stunted pines 
separates the Mississippi and Rainy-Lake valleys. High- 
granite hills follow the Lake-Superior coast ; and in 
this northeastern region are vast swamps of wild rice, 
cranberries and hemlocks. In a general way, there- 
fore, the State is divided into the northern slope, or 
Red-River and Rainy-Lake region, with rich prairies 
on the west, and heavy timber on the east ; the south- 
ern slope, or Mississippi Valley, occupied by rolling 
prairies and woods ; and the 21,000 square miles of the 
eastern slope, abounding in forests, and with valuable 

mineral resources. The Mississippi Valley occupies two thirds of the State, falling 1,000 
feet from Lake Itasca to the Iowa line, in a gentle slope of three feet to a mile. In the lower 
part of this incline the scenery is very attractive, with groves and copses and oak-openings 
sprinkled over the undulating grassy plains. From the great central plateau of Minnesota 
the Mississippi begins its course to the Gulf of Mexico, the Red River of the North starts 
for Hudson Bay, and the uppermost of the Great Lakes turns its crystal tides toward the 
Gulf of St. Lawrence and the misty North Atlantic. The water- 
sheds of these three of the noblest river-systems in the world trav- 
erse the State in every direction, their long broken ridges rising 
from 1,000 to 1,800 feet above the sea. There are 1,532 miles of 
navigable waters in Minnesota, on which ply over loo vessels, aside 
from the lake and river steamers enrolled at outside ports. 

The Mississippi River rises in Lake Itasca, amid the wooded 
hills of northern Minnesota, 1,575 feet above tidewater. Here it 
has a width of twelve feet, and a depth of two feet, and sweeps 
around a great curve, northeast, east, south and southwest. After 
traversing Pemidji Lake it is 120 feet wide, and beyond Cass Lake 
it reaches 172 feet. The United States has built four large reser- 
voirs, at a cost of above $600,000, at Cross Lake, Winnibigoshish 
Lake and elsewhere, resulting in benefit to navigation, and partly 
VERMILION FALLS. averting floods. The head of navigation on the Mississippi River 





THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 



423 




FALLS OF MINNEHAHA. 



is at the Falls of Pokegama, near Leech River, and 270 miles 
from the source. In the next 200 miles below there is an aggre- 
gate fall of 165 feet, chiefly at Sauk Rapids and Little Falls, 
except for which the stream is navigable 400 miles above Minne- 
apolis, for small steamers. The only stretch now navigated is the 
165 miles from Aitkin, on the Northern Pacific, north to Grand 
Rapids, where three steamboats ply up and down, with supplies 
for the lumber-camps. The shores are bold and rocky below 
Sauk Rapids, 70 miles from which the stream, now grown to a 
breadth of 1,200 feet, thunders over St. -Anthony's Falls. Sixty 
miles further on its way to the Gulf the Mississippi broadens to 
from one to three miles, for a length of 25 miles ; and this beau- 
tiful expanse is known as Lake Pepin. Among the legend- 
haunted localities on its shores are Maiden's Rock, the Sugar 
Loaf, the Robbers' Cave, and Point au Sable, once the site of a 
French border-fortress. Frontenac is one of the favorite sum- 
mer-resorts of the Northwest, and overlooks Lake Pepin and a succession of rocky bluffs 
and golden grain-fields, melting away into the far-extending prairies. The Mississippi, 
when it leaves Minnesota, is a noble river, half a mile wide and from five to 20 feet deep ; 
and has afforded 540 miles of navigable waters within her boundaries. In its lower course, 
the stream winds from side to side of the beautiful valley, which is bordered by fine lime- 
stone cliffs, overhung by green domes of foliage and the gleam-flitted corn-ocean of summer 
Numberless islands part the crystal waters, some of them large enough for cultivation, and 
others mere bouquets of trees and shrubbery. It is one of the fairest river-vistas in America, 
and delights the eyes of thousands &f tourists every summer. 

The region about the sources of the Mississippi was explored by Schoolcraft, in 1832, 
and Nicollet, \\\ 1S36 ; and minutely surveyed by U.-S. Land-Office engineers in 1875. The 
beautiful Itasca Lake, several miles long, has always been regarded as the source of the 
Mississippi. A few rods from Itasca is a higher tributary pond of 200 acres, shown on 
Schoolcraft's and Nicollet's maps, and named Elk Lake by the U.-S. Land-Office. 49 years 
after the discovery of this pond, and long after its shores had been surveyed by the engineers, 
and its name given, Glazier visited it. An attempt (for some time successful) to re-name 
it Lake Glazier was defeated by the Legislature, which re-affirmed to title Elk Lake, ordering 
that no school-book should be authorized in which any other name appeared. 

The Minnesota River rises on the Coteau des Prairies, and flows 440 miles to the Miss- 
issippi, at Fort Snelling. In high water steamboats have ascended for 238 miles to Granite 
Falls. Fifteen miles from its source the Minnesota widens into Big-Stone Lake, stretching 
for 30 miles along the Dakota frontier, and much frequented in summer by yachtsmen and 
fishermen. The Red River of the North rises in Elbow Lake, and down to Breckenridge, 
200 miles below, it is generally known as the Otter-Tail River. In and along Minnesota's 
prairies it flows for over 500 miles, through a level belt of rich alluvial mould 40 miles wide, 
peculiarly adapted for the cultivation of wheat. Nominally, Breckenridge, 400 miles from 
the Canadian frontier, is the head of navigation, but steamboats rarely ascend beyond Fort 

Abercrombie, 26 miles below. Far to 
the north the Red River pours into 
Lake Winnipeg through six mouths, 
in a lonely land of marshes, and ulti- 
mately its waters enter the icy tides of 
Hudson Bay. The St. -Croix River is 
ascended by steamboats as far as Tay- 
lor's Falls (52 miles); and the St.- 
oETRoiT LAKE. Louis has 21 miles navigable. 




424 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MINNEAPOLIS ; THE POST-OFFICE. 



The Falls of Minnehaha, made forever famous by Long- 
fellow's Hiawatha song, are near Fort Snelling, on the 
little stream flowing from Lakes Harriet and Calhoun, 
two pretty suburban resorts for the people of St. Paul and 
Minneapolis. The falls are 59 feet high, amid great beauty 
of woodland scenery, and although there is but little water 
the delicate lace-like effect of the cascade makes a fine 
contrast with the enwalling gorge and the overhanging 
birch-trees. Near Grand Portage the Pigeon River falls 
144 feet in a course of 1,200 feet, between the lofty per- 
pendicular walls of a rocky gorge. The Falls of St. 
Croix occur in a canon of trap-rock 150 feet deep. There 
are picturesque cascades on the Vermilion, Kettle, Kaw- 
imbash and many other streams. Near St. Paul is Car- 
ver's Cave, where Jonathan Carver made a treaty with the Sioux, in 1767 ; and two miles 
above the city the dark halls of Fountain Cave enter the bluffs for over 1,000 feet, and are 
traversed by a murmuring stream. Nicollet, the explorer, named the Park region Undine, 
on account of its everywhere-present lakes and streams. The lakes are 10,000 in number, 
of all shapes and sizes, and covering 4,160 square miles. They were left here when the 
continental ice-sheet melted, in deep basins scooped out by the glaciers. Their waters are 
clear, cold and crystalline, revealing clean pebbly bottoms, and lapsing gently against rocky 
shores, over which wave the long grasses of the prairies, or the folia<^e of the northern 
forests. Besides their great beauty in the landscape, and 
their value for fishing, these myriad lochs serve a useful 
purpose in modifying the temperature. They abound in 
trout, pike, pickerel, cat-fish, sunfish, perch, rock bass, 
black bass and other valuable fish ; and the neighboring 
forests contain deer, bears, wolves, foxes, lynxes, beaver, 
mink, musk-rats, otter, game birds and water-fowl. 
Among the chief of these lakes are Leech Lake, of 194 
square miles; Mille Lacs, 198; Red, 342; Winnibigoshish, 7S ; and Vermilion, 63. On 
the north frontier lie Rainy Lake (146 square miles) and the Lake of the Woods (612 square 
miles), most of whose waters and shores belong to Canada. Steamboats ply on Rainy 
Lake and River, the latter of which descends in 100 miles to the Lake of the Woods, whose 
outlet is to the Winnipeg River. Both these lakes have many wooded islands and pictur- 
esque bays, and shores in part marshy and abounding in wild rice. Lake Minnetonka 
stretches its network of many bays amid the Big Woods, 15 miles southwest of Minneapo- 
lis, and is fringed with summer-resorts, and traversed by pleasure-steamboats. White- 
Bear Lake, four miles long, is a favorite summer-home for St. -Paul families, with hotels 
and villas overlooking its sandy beaches and sky-tinted water and forested islands. Many 
handsome yachts fly over this forest-fringed loch, which abounds in fish. Northeast from 
Duluth the iron-bound coast of Lake Superior trends away for 167 miles, before it reaches 

the Canadian frontier, at Pigeon River. There are but 

few inhabitants along this stormy shore, where huge 

^F?/";';^^^^^V cliffs of greenstone and porphyry face the perpetual 

assaults of the waves. Near Baptism River the Pali- 



sades rise in singular columns of rock, from 50 to 80 feet 
and from one to six feet in diameter. 
Climate — -The summer resembles that of Philadel- 
as to its hot days, but the nights are cool and re- 
owing to the high altitude. Maury praised 
the steel-blue night skies of Minnesota, so brilliant and 




MINNEAPOLIS : CEMETERY LODGE. 




MINNEAPOLIS : PUBLIC LIBRARY. 



THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 



425 




<<pi^^i^ 



MINNEAPOLIS : EXPOSITION BUILDING. 



lovely. " The winters are severe, but with a dry and 
bracing air which enables people to bear their rigors 
with comfort. Proctor Knott said that the winters 
of Duluth froze the smoke-stacks off the locomotives. 
The temperature of Fort Snelling is similar to that of 
Montreal, Plattsburgh, the Berkshire Hills and the 
Aroostook Country, but with less than half as much 
snow. The winter has a comparatively light 
snowfall, which grows heavier in February and 
March, followed by a rapid change to the flow- 
ers of spring. The mean temperature south of 
Moorhead and Duluth, and of the Red-River 
country up to Pembina, is 40° ; that of the northern sections is 36°. The healthfulness of 
this climate has for many years been recognized, and even pulmonary complaints are bene- 
fited by it. The larger proportion of the winter days are bright and still, and a tempera- 
ture of — 20° brings no great hardship. But on the few winter days when high winds are 
added to low temperature, much suffering may result, unless shelter is found. 

Farming. — The soil of southern and central Minnesota is a deep grayish-brown or 
black sandy loam, from two to five feet deep, rich in organic matter and stimulating mineral 
salts, and endowed with untiring durability. West of the Mississippi extend large areas of 
rich limestone soil, with argillaceous earth along the Red River. Extensive swamps enfold 
the head-lakes of the Mississippi, and fill broad areas in the northeast. The extreme north 
is for the most part rocky and barren and unfit for 
cultivation. In 1880 11,000,000 acres had not 
been surveyed, and over 20, 000, 000 still remained 
in the hands of the Government. Three fourths 
of this is arable land. The wheat-crop rarely 
fails, and its area is continually expanding, espec- 
ially along the Red-River Valley and the Northern 
Pacific Railroad. The hard spring wheat of this 
region is the best in the world, and produces the finest flour. The production of wheat has 
exceeded 55,000,000 bushels in a year; of oats, 52,000,000 bushels; of corn, 22,000,000 
bushels; of barley, 9,000,000 bushels. This rich northwestern garden is prolific also in 
flaxseed, buckwheat, rye, potatoes, arid many varieties of apples, grapes, strawberries and 
other fruits. Only one fifth of the tillable soil, or one eighth of the soil of the State, is 
under cultivation, and vast areas still invite the immigrant. After 1873 the exclusive rais- 
ing of wheat gave place to a more diversified farming, with a larger attention to stock-rais- 
ing. Minnesota has 316,000 horses, 771,000 cattle, 275,000 sheep, and 410,000 swine. In 
a single year the product of butter has exceeded 15,000,000 pounds, and that of cheese has 
passed 1,500,000 pounds. 

Half of Minnesota rests under the shadow of forests, and extensive lumbering operations 
have been carried on along the upper Mississippi and St. -Croix and their tributaries, and on 
the St. -Louis. The State has produced in a year 472,000,000 feet 
of sawed lumber and 180,000,000 shingles. The Mississippi Val- 
ley, north of Minneapolis, usually produces 180,000,000 feet 
of lumber yearly. In the year 1880 there were standing 
6, 100,000,000 feet of white pine ; and the hardwood forests 
then covered 3,840,000 acres. Large premiums have been 
given for tree-planting on the prairies, for wind-breaks and 
woodlands; and 30,000,000 trees have been set out in the 
open country. 
MINNEAPOLIS: COLLEGE HOSPITAL. The lumbcr of the St. -Cloud region and other broad 




MINNEAPOLIS ; 



UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA. 




426 



rcmC'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MINNEAPOLIS ; LUMBER OF N. 



areas of woodlands is handled mainly by the 
firm of N. P. Clarke & Co., who often have at 
one time stocks valued at above half a million 
dollars, in lumber and logs. This firm has its 
offices in the grand Lumber Exchange, at 
Minneapolis, and conducts a large and increas- 
ing business in connection with the forest pro- 
ducts of northern Minnesota, so greatly in de- 
mand in the treeless prairie States to the west- 
ward. Large areas of pine lands are owned or 
controlled, and employ 700 men, getting out from 60,000,000 to 90,000,000 feet of lumber 
every year. N. P. Clarke & Co. are the leading house in the lumber trade of Minnesota. 
Mr. Clarke is also well-known as the largest holder of improved farm-property in Minne- 
sota, one of his estates, near St. Cloud, having an area of 4,000 acres. In these broad 
domains he raises many blooded cattle and horses, chiefly as a diversion, although it has 
also proved to be a profitable business. 

Mining. — The great iron mines of the Vermilion and Mesabi Ranges, about 100 miles 
north of Duluth, are among the productive points of an ore-field extending from the fron- 
tier past Ely and Tower to the Mississippi. It is a soft ore, sometimes yielding 67 per cent, 
of iron, and so low in phosphorus as to come within the Bessemer limit. More than 

500,000 tons are sent out yearly by the Minnesota 
Iron Company alone, and in 1S90 870,000 tons, 
valued at $3,000,000, were shipped from Two 
Harbors, a port northeast of Duluth. 

The pioneer in mining in the rich Vermilion 
Range is the Minnesota Ii"on Company, incorpor- 
ated in 1882, and with an authorized capital of 
#? 20, 000, 000, of which $14,000,000 are paid in. 
The mines are near Lake Vermilion, 100 miles 
north of Duluth, and near them the city of Tower 
and the village of Soudan have sprung up. Begin- 
ning operations in 1884, this powerful company has 
advanced to a point where it mines and ships yearly more than 500,000 tons of hard red 
hematite ore, very rich in metallic iron, and for the most part within the Bessemer limit of 
phosphorus. The mines are worked throughout the year, employing nearly 1,200 men, and 
provided with a plant including mining and ore-raising machinery, with offices and shops, 
homes for the men, and a well-equipped hospital and school-house. The Duluth & Iron- 
Range Railroad, carrying the ore to the port of Two Harbors (20 miles from Duluth), and 
The Minnesota Steam-Ship Company, with six large steel vessels, are closely connected with 
the Minnesota Iron Company. Four fifths of the ore goes to the furnaces in Pennsylvania, 
New York and Ohio, and the balance is used at Chicago. The lake-region in the vicinity 
of Tower is picturesque, and is becoming a favorite 
resort for sportsmen and summer-campers. 

Among Minnesota's building-stones are the 
pink limestone of Kasota, the cream limestone of 
Red Wing and Faribault, the dolomite of Roches- 
ter, and the white stone of Kasson. Fine glass- 
sand abounds around Faribault ; and the clay of 
Austin and Albert Lea is used by many brick- 
yards. In the northeast, near Fond du Lac and 
Sandstone, there are quarries of brownstone, em- 
ploying many hundred men. Mankato has exten- esota iron co 




MINNESOTA IRON CO. 




THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 



427 




sive quarries ; and its mills send out 8,000 car-loads 
of cement yearly, besides great quantities of drain- 
tile and sewer-pipe, brick, and fire-brick. St. 
Cloud has a score of quarries of fine gray, white 
and red granite, from which have been obtained 
the materials for the Pioneer-Press and New-York 
Life buildings at St. Paul, the Minneapolis Li- 
brary, and other important structures. Luverne, 
in the remote southwest, has quarries of red jasper 
(quartzite), locally used in building, and when tower : Minnesota iron co. 

polished rivalling Mexican onyx in beauty. The Great Red Pipestone Quarry, where the 
opening scenes of Longfellow's Hiawatha occur, is near Pipestone City, in southwestern 
Minnesota. Here the Coteau des Prairies rises 450 feet above the surrounding country, 
and 2,000 feet above the sea, and preserves this height for 130 miles, overlooking the 
treeless plains until in the remote distance the living green of the land meets the blue of 
the sky. The stone is near the crest of this mound-ridge, in a grassy valley overlooked by 
remarkable cliffs ; and this is the only place in the world where it is found. It is a com- 
pact blood-red stone, easily carved and susceptible of a dull polish ; and pipes from this 
material have been found as far away as New York and Georgia. The Indian tribes used 
to come to the quarry every year and dig for the 
precious pipe-stone, dwelling in peace with each 
other while in this holy land. 

The Population is made up of two different 
elements, the descendants of the early settlers, com- 
ing largely from New England, and the more recent 
migrations of Swedes and Norwegians, Danes and 
Russians, Icelanders and Lapps, and other hardy 
races from Northern Europe, Near New-York Mills 
dwell 4,000 Finns, preserving their strange Tartar 
language and literature, and supporting the news- 
paper called Aincrikan Sitometar (^Finnish- Ameri- 
can). The Indian population, once so powerful, 
has ceased to be of account. The Sioux have been 
pushed across the Dakota border and their old land knows them no more. In the north 
are 9,000 or more of the inteiesting Chippewa tribe, scattered in bands among the lakes, 
and taught by Catholic and Episcopal missionaries. The Chippewas in 1889 were per- 
suaded to sell their great reservations at Red Lake, Mille Lacs, Vermilion Lake and else- 
where, receiving lands in severalty, and surrendering their tribal relations. The lands are 
to be sold by the United- States Government, and the proceeds placed in the Treasury, 
bearing interest at 5 per cent., which is to be paid out for and to the Indians. 

Government. — The Governor and executive officers are elected by the people every two 
years. The legislature includes 54 senators and 1 14 representatives, and meets biennially. 

The judges are elected by the people. Women vote, 
and may hold office in school affairs. The National 
Guard of Minnesota includes two regiments of in- 
fantry, of ten companies each, a battery of artillery 
and a troop of cavalry. There is also the Third 
ImjJ^N f. Regiment of infantry, armed but not otherwise main- 
""I^ HMrjii tained by the State, being composed of ten inde- 
'-^^ pendent companies. The State campground is near 
Lake City, and has rifle-ranges and other military 
MOORHEAD ; STATE NORMAL SCHOOL. accessones. 




TWO HARBORS : MINNESOTA IRON CO. 




428 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




FARIBAULT : SHATTUCK SCHOOL. 



The Minnesota Institute for Defectives, at Faribault, in- 
cludes the school for the deaf (150 inmates), the school for 
the blind (45), and the school for feeble-minded (300). The 
State Public School for Dependent Children was founded 
in 1885 at Owatonna. The State Prison, at Stillwater, has 
400 convicts, and 200 empty cells. The State Reformatory 
was erected in 1888-9, "ii ^^^e heights over St. Cloud, and has inexhaustible quarries of 
granite on its grounds. The State Reform School for boys and girls is at St. Paul. The 
hospitals for the insane, at St. Peter, Rochester, and Fergus Falls, have 2,400 inmates. 
The State Soldiers' Home was opened in 1887, in a park of 51 acres given by Minneapolis, 
on the beautiful point at the junction of the Mississippi River and Minnehaha Creek, and 
contiguous to the great city parks. The twelve handsome brick cottages, administration 
building, hospital and chapel, some of which are already constructed and occupied, will 
have cost over $250,000, making the finest State home for veterans m America. The 
Soldiers' Orphans' Home is at Winona. • . 

Education is carefully looked after, and wisely and liberally administered. The 
Minneapolis high-schools have manual training shops. The amount expended yearly is 
above $4,000,000; and the school-fund amounts to nearly $9,000,000, and will be 
$20,000,000 when all the land has been sold. The normal schools at Mankato, Winona, 
Moorhead and St. Cloud have 800 students. The University of the State of Minnesota 

was decreed in 1857 and opened in 1869, endowed by the 
United States and supported by the State. The buildings 
stand on a bluff in an undulating and wooded park 
of 45 acres, a mile below and in full view of the 
Falls of St. Anthony, at Minneapolis. There are 
seven substantial structures, with adequate muse- 
ums and alibrary of 24,000 volumes. No provision 
is made for dormitories. The University has over 
1,000 students (one fifth of them women), of 
whom 580 are in the college of literature and 
mechanic arts; 130 in the schools of agriculture, 
art and practical mechanics; 125 in the law-school; and 125 in the medical and dental 
schools. There are also 40 graduate students. The faculty, instructors and lecturers num- 
ber 108. The students form a battalion of infantry, with a uniformed company of girls, 
drilled in military exercises daily, and commanded by an officer of the United-States army. 
The drill-hall is one of the largest in America, and occasionally 1 serves the pi 
pose of an assembly-hall, seating 3, 500 persons. The experimental 1^ farm of the Agri- 
cultural College is two miles from the University, near Lake 
Como, and occupies 250 acres. Carleton College was opened 
at Northfield in 1867, by New-England Congregation- 
alists, to be a great Christian school for the Northwest. 
It has six good buildings, 19 instructors and 67 students 
(besides 196 preparatory). The college observatory is 
one of the best in America, and furnishes the standard 
time for the Minnesota railroads. Warner & Swasey, of 
Cleveland (Ohio) designed and built the 16-foot equato- 
rial telescope, the 30-foot steel dome, and also the 17-foot 
steel dom.e. The Sidereal Messenger, a monthly maga- 
zine of astronomy, is published here. The Bishop- 
Seabury Mission, at Faribault, is the outgrowth of 
a parish school founded by Rev. Dr. J. L. Breck, 
in 1858, and includes the Seabury Divinity School, 




PAUL : CONVENT OF THE GOOD SHEPHERD. 




MINNEAPOLIS I 



MASONIC TEMPLE. 



THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 



429 




STONE ARCH BRi; 



jREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY. 



with eight instructors and 30 students in holy- 
orders. The Shattuck School, founded in 1868, 
as a grammar-school, is named for Dr. G. C. 
Shattuck, of Boston, one of the chief benefac- 
tors of the Faribault Episcopal institutions. It 
is one of the best training-schools for boys, and 
has several costly stone buildings, and a beauti- 
ful memorial chapel, in a park of 1 50 acres on 
the high bluff overlooking the Cannon Valley. 
The Bishop of Minnesota is chancellor of the 
school. The students are uniformed like West- 
Point cadets, and form a battalion of four companies and an artillery platoon, commanded 
by a regular-army officer. St. -Mary's Hall is another Episcopal institution, occupying a com- 
manding estate of ten acres near Faribault, with the buildings of a well-sustained training- 
school for girls. The Albert-Lea College for girls is a successful Presbyterian institution on 
the shores of the beautiful Fountain Lake, 1,300 feet above the sea. St.-Olaf's School, of 
the Norwegian Lutherans, occupies a beautiful estate of five acres, on Manitou Heights, near 
Northfield. The Presbyterians conduct Macalester College, at St. Paul, with 25 collegiate 
students ; and the Methodists have for nearly 40 years supported Hamline University, near 
St. Paul, which has 50 coUegiates. The Benedictine monks maintain St. -John's University, 
at CoUegeville, with 18 instructors and 151 students. There is also an ecclesiastical depart- 
ment here, with 35 students. The Lutheran Augsburg Seminary is at Minneapolis; and the 

Norwegian Evangelical Lutheran Seminary is at 
Red Wing. Minnesota also has several medical 
schools and colleges of pharmacy, dentistry and 
veterinary science. 

Religion is strongly entrenched among the 
Minnesotans, whose North-European and New- 
England settlers brought their Bible and rituals to 
these virgin prairies. The Lutherans and Catho- 
lics each claim more than 100,000 adherents ; the 
Methodists have 30O churches and 25,000 members ; and the Baptists, Presbyterians, Epis- 
copalians and Congregationalists have from 6,000 to 10,000 members each. 

Newspapers. — Nine days after the news of the existence of the Territory of Minne- 
sota had been received here, James M. Goodhue, an Amherst graduate, landed at St. Paul 
with a printing-press, and began the issue of the Pioneer April 28, 
1849. ^^ that time Minnesota had fewer than 5,000 inhabiants, of 
whom 840 lived at St. Paul. 

Among the great newspapers of the northwest, whose enthusi- 
astic and untiring work has done so much toward the develop- 
ment of Minnesota, none stands higher than the Minneapolis 
TribiDie. This journal issues morning and evening, weekly and 
Sunday editions, from its stately new building, erected in 1S90. 
Its expenses are nearly $1,000 a day; and the employes number 
210 in the building, and 300 correspondents. The capital stock 
of $500,000 is held by Ex-U. S. Senator Gilbert A. Pierce, for 
four years Governor of Dakota, and editor-in-chief of the Chicago 
Inter-Ocean for seven years ; and W. J. Murphy. Pierce is the 
editor, and Murphy the manager. The Tribune Company owns 
both the Associated-Press and United-Press franchises for Min- 
neapolis. . This is the only high-tariff paper in the Northwest, 
and fights sturdily for protection. There is hardly a hamlet the Minneapolis tribune. 




NORTHFIELD : CARLETON-COLLEGE OBSERVATORY. 




43° 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MINNEAPOL 
GUARANTY LOAN BUILDING. 
NORTHWESTERN MILLER " OFFICE. 



between Lake Michigan and the Rocky Mountains which has 
not its Tribune correspondent, always eager to send the fullest 
and most accurate local news to the high-towered headquarters 
at Minneapolis. It has probably the best constituencies that 
can be obtained in its section of the United States. 

The foremost flour-manufacturing city in the world is also 
the seat of the chief journal of the milling business, The 
Northwestern Miller, founded in 1873, as a monthly magazine, 
and changed soon after to a weekly. Nine years later it 
passed into the hands of C. M. Palmer, who associated with 
himself W. C. Edgar as business manager. Thenceforward the 
paper rapidly outstripped all the other flour trade-journals, and 
won a high repute for honesty of purpose and independence of 
character, with a great and unique influence, and a circulation 
in all countries where flour is made orjjold. It is regarded as 
an authority among millers ; and does a yearly business equal 
to that of all the other American milling journals combined. 
Its holiday numbers have a world-wide celebrity, for typo- 
graphical beauty and intrinsic value, and contain special con- 
tributions from many of the best-known writers. The success of the paper is largely due 
to its holding itself as the champion of its readers, and not the paid retainer of its ad- 
vertisers ; and this independence, so uncommon in trade- 
journals, is re-enforced by great editorial ability and vigil- 
ance. Its exquisite advertising pages often indicate how 
admirably high art can be used to advantage by its patrons. 
The Nation says that St. Paul is "for at least one intel- 
lectual purpose, the capital of the United States " ; and that 
purpose is the continuous and current publication of the de- 
cisions of the National and State courts of law, opening to 
the bar of each commonwealth a compendious knowledge of 
the jurisprudence of the whole country. This great work is 
in the hands of the West Publishing Company, founded in 
1876 by the two brothers, John B. and Horatio D. West, as a 
progressive law-book house, and incorporated in 1882. The 
capital is $350,000 ; the employes number 400 ; and the plant 
includes a huge and massive new eight-story brick building at St. Paul, containing com- 
plete printing and book-binding establishments and plate-vaults. This is the home of the 
National-Reporter system, consisting of ten separate publications (published in weekly 
parts, immediately after the filing of the decisions), one to the United-States Supreme 
Court, one to the other Federal courts, seven to the decisions of the higher courts in the 
various sections of the Republic, and one to the intermediate courts of New-York State. 
These always fresh reports are given in law-book form, from official copies, with all neces- 
sary editorial work, and copious annotations, and correlated 
by careful indexes and digests. They include about 15,000 
judicial decisions yearly, covering all American case-law, 
bringing every new precedent promptly before bench and bar, 
and thus tending to secure a greater harmony and unity in 
imerican jurisprudence. The West Publishing Company of 
SjEQi i@»lsi|rWiSe' ■^'■" ■P^'-^^ ^•'^ to-day the largest law-publishers in the world, 
^g|^||||j|||^ and their reports form an essential part of every American 

lawyer's library, and an invaluable treasury of modern juris- 
prudence. 




ST. PAUL ; 
THE WEST PUBLISHING CO. 





HE WEST PUBLISHING CO. 



THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 



431 



across the 
the discov- 
the most 




DULUTH : CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 



Chief Cities. — The metropolitan centre of the Northwest is at the dual cities of 
St. Paul and Minneapolis. St. Paul, at the head of navigation on the Mississippi, num- 
bered 20,000 inhabitants in 1870 ; and Minneapolis and St. Anthony, 
river from each other, had respectively 13,000 and 5,000 inhabitants. After 
ery of the "new process" of making flour, which made Minnesota wheat 
valuable in the world, St. -Anthony's Falls were lined with huge mills, and 
Minneapolis had 46,887 people, to 41,473 in St. Paul. By 1885, the 
111,397, and Minneapolis kept forging ahead, with 129,200. 
The twin cities have grown towards each other imtil they 
have practically joined, and their united population finds 
but half a dozen larger municipalities in America. In their 
churches and schools, public institutions and commercial 
buildings, dwellings and stores, they compare favorably with 
any cities on the continent ; and their system of parks is one 
of the largest and most attractive in the world. St. Paul, 
the capital of Minnesota, stands on a series of terraces over 
the Mississippi River, and is the focus of immense railway 
systems, extending in every direction, and the centre of a tre- 
mendous wholesale and retail trade. Beautiful in situation and surroundings, and blest 
with an invigorating climate, this northern capital has drawn to its gates an enterprising 
and cultivated population. The manufacturing output of St. Paul amounts to $52,000,000 a 
year. The meat-packing and slaughtering business of the city exceeds $10,000,000 yearly. 
It has large distilleries, and many diversified industries, with numerous important firms in 
the wholesale and jobbing business. St. Paul was named in honor of the Apostle of Nations, 
by Father Gaultier, a French Catholic priest, who erected a little log church here in 1841. 
The group of bark-thatched log-huts near this site had previously been known as Pig's Eye, 
from a one-eyed Canadian rum-seller, who came here in 1 838. Among the imposing edifices of 

St. Paul are the State 
House, the high-tow- 
ered City Hall, the 
first-class buildings of 
the Pioneer-Press and 
Globe newspapers, and 
the New-York Life- 
insurance Company's 
headquarters. From 
time to time St. Paul 
celebrates the advent 
of its northern winter 
by a wonderful ice- 
carnival; constructing 
a huge palace of ice, 
with towers and tur- 
rets and bastions, illuminated at night by electric lights, and surrounded by thousands of 
people in brilliant blanket-costumes of red and white, blue and yellow. Toboggan and 
snow-shoe clubs make merry through the long January evenings ; and, finally, the great 
castle of ice is stormed by torch-bearing columns of these gaily uniformed organizations, 
and the Ice-King yields to the Fire-King. 

Minneapolis occupies both sides of the Mississippi, the east side being the site of the 
older St. Anthony. Three thousand men work in the railroad shops, 2, 500 in the iron- 
works, and 15,000 in other manufacturing industries. The great lunil>cr-niills have made 
over 340,000,000 feet of lumber in a year. The Falls of St. Anthony (named by Father 




PAUL AND THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER, FROM DAYTON'S BLUFF. 



432 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MINNEAPOLIS 
NEW-YORK LIFE-INSURANCE CO. 



Hennepin, in i68o, for St. Anthony of Padua) have a descent 
of 25 feet, with 57 feet more in the rapids above. The Miss- 
issippi here flows over ledges of limestone, resting on crumb- 
ling sandstone : and in order to prevent the destruction of the 
falls by erosion, a costly inclined plane (or apron) of timber has 
been built, with a concrete bed under the channel. The first 
settler in this region came in the winter of 1849-50. The name 
of the city is a remarkable compound of the Sioux word 
Miniie, " Water, " and the Greek word /^/w, "city." Among 
its notable constructions are the Court House and City Hall, 
being erected at a cost of $2,500,000, and adorned with a noble 
Gothic tower ; the West Hotel, the Masonic Temple, the New- 
York Life-insurance Company's building, the wonderful curv- 
ing arched bridge of masonry across the Mississippi, the hand- 
some fire-proof Public Library and Art Museum, of red sand- 
stone; and the fine bridge across the Mississippi River, built 
in 1888 by the Keystone Bridge Company (who also constructed the Chicago, Milwaukee & 
St. -Paul Railway bridge at St. Paul). Minneapolis is the great flour-making city of the world, 
with more than a score of mills, whose capacity is 38,000 barrels a day. The Red-River wheat 
is here converted into the finest flour anywhere to be found, and its chief market is in Europe, 
over 300 miles of laden freight-cars leaving the city every year. In a single year Minne- 
apolis has received 50,000,000 bushels of wheat, being a greater^ quantity than that which 
went to Chicago, Duluth or New York. The product of flour has exceeded 7,000,000 
barrels in a year. The entire American pro- 
duct is 85,000,000 barrels a year, valued at 
$4.00,000,000; and it maybe that this is the 
foremost industry of the Republic. 

The Pillsbury-Washburn Flour Mills Com- 
pany, Limited, is an English corporation, 
formed in 1889, with a capital of ^.^i, 000, 000, 
and with its financial headquarters in Lon- 
don. It succeeded to the business of C. A. 
Pillsbury & Co., and the Washburn Mill Com- 
pany, and controls the Minneapolis Mill Com- 
pany, the St. -Anthony Falls Water-power Company, the Minneapolis & Northern Elevator 
Company, and the Atlantic Elevator Company. The plant includes 
the Pillsbury A and B, Palisade, Anchor and Lincoln Mills, three 
large elevators in Minneapolis, 200 country elevators, and all the 
water-power at Minneapolis. Employment is given to 1,200 men; 
and the yearly capacity is 4,000,000 barrels of flour, 176,000,000 
pounds of bran, 45,000,000 pounds of middlings, and 35,000,000 
pounds of screenings. The mills grind every year 17,000,000 
bushels of spring wheat ; and the Pillsbury A mill has the greatest 
capacity of any flour-mill in the world, reaching 7,200 barrels a day. 
The five mills have a capacity of 14,500 barrels a day, and 300 cars 
J re required daily to take wheat in to them, and to remove the flour 
ami waste. For these properties was paid $6,250,000, three fourths 
111 cash, and the rest in securities. Charles A. Pillsbury is the 
managing director of this colossal system, whose well-known brand 
of "Pillsbury's Best" flour is a favorite with housewives every- 
g^ PAui~ where. This is the largest milling plant in the world, and its pro- 

NEw-YORK LIFE-INSURANCE CO. duct is sold whcrcvcr flour is used. 




mrrm^aiasiWMS^tawi^'^llMMIMIMr- 



MINNEAPOLIS : PILLSBURY-WASHBURN FLOUR MILLS. 




THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 



433 




MINNEAPOLIS : THE WASHBURN-CROSBY COMPANY 
THE "WASHBURN" FLOURING MILLS. 



Much of the best patent spring-wheat flour in 
the world is made by the Washburn-Crosby 
Company, occupying and operating the great 
mills founded in 1866, at Minneapolis, by Cad- 
wallader C. Washburn, ex-Governor of Wiscon- 
sin. The plant is one of the largest in the world, 
and includes three mills and two elevators, with 
ten acres of floor space, where 500 men and a 
great quantity of ingenious machinery reduce the 
wheat of Minnesota and the Dakotas to flour, by 
the French high grinding process and the Hun- 
garian roller process. The capital paid in is $1,500,000; and the daily capacity of the 
Washburn A, B and C mills is 9,000 barrels of the finest and best flour. The Washburn 
A mill is said to be the largest in the world, and occupies the site of the mill destroyed 
in 1878, when 18 lives were lost, and six mills destroyed, by an explosion of flour-dust. 
The new mill is one of the strongest and best appointed in America, and has a dust-house 
absolutely safe from explosions. The Washburn-Crosby Company's representative brands 
(Washburn's Superlative and Washburn's Gold Medal flour) command higher prices than 
any other brands in the market, and are sold all over the world. 

The famous house of F. H. Peavey & Co.; wholesale grain merchants, was founded at 
Sioux City, Iowa, in 1874, by Frank H. Peavey, and 
now employs 435 men. It ranks in volume of business 
at the head of all the American firms in this line, and 
has risen with great rapidity to this commanding place. 
The assets exceed $1,000,000. The total elevator stor- 
age capacity actually owned or directly controlled is 
10,000,000 bushels, and includes the great terminal 
elevators at Minneapolis, Kansas City (Mo.), Washburn 
(Wis. ), and Portland (Ore. ), besides 200 country eleva- 
tors along the railways leading to those points. Their 
Interior Elevators at Minneapolis, with a capacity of 
1,500,000 bushels, are among the largest in the State, and their Duluth Elevator Com- 
pany's system of connected elevators at West Superior (Wis.), with a capacity of 5,000,000 
bushels, is the largest of its kind in the world. The house buys all kinds of grain direct 
from the farmers in nine States, and carries it on margin, or sells it in large or small 
quantities, for domestic or foreign use. In 1891 the company opened an elevator at Rich- 
ford (Vt.), from which to supply New England with wheat, corn and oats. By such 
scientific system the golden harvests of the Northwest are concentrated and moved, and 
finally reach the hungry consumers. 

In the long-ago days of 1858, when G. W. Van Dusen began buying wheat in Wiscon- 
sin, the grain was handled entirely in sacks, and shipped upon flat-cars. Following the 
Western movement of the trade, Van Dusen located in 1865 at Rochester, Minn., then at 

the end of the Chicago & Northwestern line ; and 
as the railway was extended westward he built at 
the new stations elevators for handling grain in 
bulk. G. W. Van Dusen & Co. now operate 90 
country elevators, buying grain from farmers, and 
selling it to millers or grain-dealers for future deliv- 
ery. They also control the Star Elevator Com- 
pany, whose elevator at Minneapolis has a capacity 
of 1,800,000 bushels, and stores the grain for grain- 
dealers, millers and others. In 1888 the stock of 




MINNEAPOLIS ; 
LEVATORS, F. H. 




MINNEAPOLIS 



W, VAN DUSEN 



434 



KLVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



1.^%. _ 



-i/ ' - - 




4- ;r-^ ' -^ j(Tjs. 



^^1< 



F»j>K^^ir<^l^afe>_^fe^^ afesfe« ^.ad8^...^^C^i^>l 



DULUTH AND ITS HARBOR AND LAKE SUPERIOR 



the two companies was sold to a English syndicate, and the headquarters are now in Lon- 
don ; Geo. W. Van Dusen serving as president and general manager of the two companies. 
At the various elevators 300 men are employed, mainly between Winona (Minn.) and Pierre 
(S. D.); and G, W. Van Dusen & Co., with its capital of $900,000, ranks as one of the 
foremost grain-dealing firms in America. 

Duluth, "the Zenith City of the Unsalted Seas," occupies a wonderful strategic posi- 
tion, where the Great Lakes reach their westernmost point, and the railways from the rich 
prairie States converge, bearing enormous freights to this head of navigation. It has an 
extensive system of deep-water harbors, reached by a ship-canal 1,500 feet long and 300 feet 
wide, with a depth of 25 feet, and bordered by immense elevators, warehouses and coal-docks. 

Its receipts rival those of Chicago. 

So powerful and efficient is the 

machinery in use on these piers, 

that a steamer has been loaded 

with 15,000 bushels of wheat in 2j 

hours. Wheat began to come to 

Duluth in 1871, and more than 

2,000 vessels enter and leave the 

port yearly, bringing over 1,500,000 

tons of coal, and carrying away 

3,500,000 barrels of flour. The 

elevator capacity is 21,000,000 bushels of wheat, and the yearly receipts and shipments are 

about 30,000,000 bushels. The royal water-route eastward from Duluth is an outlet for 

enormous quantities of merchandise of many kinds. Latterly a number of (juaint steel 

"whale-back" vessels have been built here, for the navigation of the lakes. 

Among the other cities is New Ulm, settled by Germans, and hotly besieged by the 
Sioux in 1862; St. Peter, on its picturesque terraces over the Minnesota River ; Mankato, 
a prosperous manufacturing town, where the Blue-Earth River enters the Minnesota ; and 
Winona, a great wheat-mart, and the chief city of southern Minnesota, in a beautiful 
situation on level lowlands under the Mississippi bluffs, with wide and pleasant streets, busy 
factories, and excellent schools and churches. Faribault is famous for its great Episcopal 
schools ; Fergus Falls, on the Red River, for flouring-mills and other manufactories ; Red 
Wing, for its wheat trade ; Northfield, for farm-lands and colleges ; St. Cloud, on the Miss- 
issippi, for manufacturing and country-trade ; and Stillwater, for its general trade, and its 
pleasant situation on Lake St. Croix. 

The Finances of Minnesota naturally find their concentrating points at Minneapolis 
and St. Paul. The former has recently been made a banking reserve point, and has a 

banking capital of $9,000,000, and deposits of $26,- 
000,000. One of the foremost financial institutions of 
the Northwest is the First National Bank of Minneapo- 
lis, which was organized in 1863 by the Sidles, then 
\\ (.11 known bankers and millers of Minnesota ; and the 
Sidle family now occupy the positions of president, 
i^hier and assistant cashier. The directorate includes 
I number of the strongest men in the State. The busi- 
ness has proved to be large and successful, and the 
deposits reach nearly $5,000,000. The paid-in capital is 
$1,000,000 ; and the surplus and undivided profits are 
o\t.i $400,000. This is the oldest bank of Minneapo- 
lis, and in several particulars is the largest in Minne- 
sota ; and its operations extend over a great area of the northwestern country, where it has 
active correspondents in many cities. 




M NNEAPOLIS FIRST NATIONAL BANK 




MINNEAPOLIS 
MINNESOTA LOAN & TRUST CO. 



THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 

The Minnesota Loan & Trust Company, the foremost trust 
company of the Northwest, organized in 1883 by Eugene A. 
Merrill and Edmund J. Phelps, occupies its own imposing fire- 
proof building, erected at Minneapolis in 1884-6, and has a capital 
of $500,000, with a surplus and undivided profits of $175,000. 
It transacts the same lines of business as the New York and 
Philadelphia trust-companies, having the care of estates, and acting 
as guardian, executor, and trustee under wills, and as a nego- 
ciator of mortgage-loans for Eastern financial institutions. Such 
corporations have the advantages of perpetuity, and comparative 
freedom from the fluctuations of fortune, and insure a more efficient 
and economical administration of trusts than individuals can attain 
to. This company has a successful deposit department, and large 
safe-deposit vaults ; and its business has developed on all sides 
rapidly and solidly. It is required bylaw to keep on deposit with 
the State Auditor $100,000, in approved securities. It has handled loans on real estate to a 
large extent, and has important connections with the leading financial institutions of the East. 
Duluth in her rapid and solid growth has given rise to a number of financial institutions : 
including three National banks, three State banks, a savings-bank, and two trust companies, 
having a total capital of $2,500,000. One of these banks is par- 
ticularly worthy of notice, the American Exchange Bank of Du- 
luth, with a capital of $325,000, and a surplus of an almost equal 
amount ; its stock selling at the highest figures of any bank in 
northern Minnesota. Its deposits exceed $1,000,000 and its 
gross assets approach $2,000,000. It occupies the main floor in 
the Exchange Building, a handsome structure on the main thor- 
oughfare. The American Exchange Bank was established in 1872 
as a savings-bank, with a capital of $25,000, and reorganized in 
1879 as a State bank. Its capital has been increased several times, 
and now reaches $500,000. It is the oldest bank in Duluth, and 
moreover is the oldest incorporated bank at the head of the chain 
of great lakes. Its officers and directors are among the best 
known citizens, its president being H. M. Peyton, and its cashier, 
James C. Hunter. A. R. Macfarlane who was instrumental in 
its original organization in 1872 has ever since been connected with 
it, and is now manager. It does a large general banking business and also an extensive 
amount in collections ; banks and business houses throughout the country making use of the 
American Exchange Bank for collections in this section. It has been uninterruptedly suc- 
cessful from the start, always paying yearly dividends of ten per cent. 

The Railway system of Minnesota began its operations in 1857, when the Minnesota 
& Pacific line received its charter; and the first train was run in June, 1862, over the ten 
miles of the St. -Paul & Pacific route, between St. 
Paul and St. Anthony. By 1864 it reached Elk 
River; by 1867, Lake Minnetonka ; by 1870, 
Benson ; and by 1871 it entered Breckenridge, 217 
miles from St. Paul, on the Red River of the 
North. The Northern Pacific line was chartered 
in 1864, and reached Moorhead on the Red River 
in 1871. In 1872 trains began to run on the St. 
Paul & Chicago line, to "Winona and La Crosse. 
The Minnesota Valley line incorporated in 1864, 
reached Shakopee in 1865 and Le Sueur in 1867. ^^^^^ northern railway general offices. 




DULUTH : 
AMERICAN EXCHANGE BANK. 




436 




KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

The principal thoroughfare 
of Minnesota is the Great 
Northern Railway Line, part 
of which is the former St. -Paul, 
Minneapolis & Manitoba. The 
railway history of this State, 
particularly that of St. Paul 
and Minneapolis, begins with 
this road, it being the first to 
HOTEL LAFAYETTE. g,-,tgj. ^^6 Twin Citics. It now 
inds them together with four tracks, over which it runs 
from 80 to 100 trains a day from magnificent Union Depots. 
On its various lines in Minnesota are to be found some of 
the most delightful pleasure and fishing resorts in America, including Lake Minnetonka, 
with Hotel Lafayette, the largest summer house in the West. Indeed, every station in the 
Park Region is the centre for countless lakes. Its real growth began a little over ten years 
ago, when President James J. Hill assumed active management. Its lines now radiate in 
all directions westward of St. Paul, Minneapolis, Duluth and West Superior ; and at Paget 
Sound will touch the tides of the Pacific and connect its waters with the Atlantic by a route 
via Lake Superior (and also via St. Paul), the shortest by 250 miles of any trans-continental 
line. The Great Northern is not only the shortest line, but its average grade is the easiest of 
any in the West. It is built along the only parallel across the Continent possible of continu- 
ous settlement, through a veritable empire of agricultural, grazing, mineral and timber lands. 
This proud achievement was consummated without Government subsidy or local aid. The 
Great Northern is the principal carrier of original wheat in the world, delivering every year 
tens of thousands of cars to Lake-Superior ports for shipment abroad, and to the flour-mills 
of Minneapolis, St. Paul and Duluth. It not only hauls out the wheat of the Red-River Valley 
and the Dakotas, to the mills, and the corn of Iowa and Nebraska to the vessels of Lake 
Superior, but it is the artery through which flow the products of the ranges, mines and 
forests of Montana, Idaho, Washington and Oregon, its direct traffic covering a region 
larger than the original area of the United States. 

The dairy business in the grass counties of southern Minnesota has largely supplanted 



high prosperity. This 
mack, who in 1 88 1 
The outgrowth of this 



wheat-culture, bringing to thousands of farmers a 
is largely due to Charles E. Marvin and E. A. Cam- 
founded the creamery business, in Rochester, Minn, 
enterprise (still under the same management) is the 
Crescent Creamery Company, with a capital of 
$300,000, and probably the largest concern of the 
kind in America, conducting 30 establishments, 
with large plants in Minnesota at St. Paul and 
Rochester, and in Washington and Tacoma on the 
Pacific Coast. The company buys the milk from 
150,000 cows, and its yearly sales reach $2,000,000, 
including much of the milk used in St. Paul and 
Minneapolis, millions of eggs, and enormous quan- 
tities of butter and cheese. Butter is made from 
cream extracted at the shipping stations by the centrifugal process ; churned by the dry 
granular process, in numerous revolving churns, each yielding about 400 pounds; worked 
into individual squares, cloth-bound two-pound blocks, rolls, firkins and in boxes ; and 
then stored in a temperature of 33°, and shipped in refrigerator cars all over the Union, 
and to the Pacific Coast and Europe. The high quality of the goods bearing the Crescent 
Company's brand has been the main cause of the remarkable success. 




CRESCENT CREAMERY COMPANY 




(i893). 



According to tradition, 
the ancient inhabitants of 
Mississippi were the Ala- 
bama and Muscogee In- 
dians, fleeing from Cortez 
in Mexico. They had hardly 
become accustomed to the 
land of their exile when De 
Soto's army of hidalgoes, 
men-at-arms and monks entered their territory, and win- 
tered in Pontotoc County. After suffering the loss of 50 
soldiers in a night attack by the Chickasaws, De Soto 
stormed the Indian town of Alibamo, on the Tallahatchie 
River, at the close of a hot and murderous battle. Even 
after the Spanish army had turned southward from Arkan- 
sas, to retreat by boats to the Gulf, the gallant Mississip- 
pians attacked their flotilla all along the river, in fleets of 
canoes, and inflicted serious losses upon them. 

More than a century passed before Marquette and Joliet 
(in 1673) visited these shores, passing from Quebec up to 
the Great Lakes, and descending the Wisconsin ahd Miss- 
issippi. They were kindly received by the Chickasaws, 
and abode with them many days. Nine years later La 
Salle followed the same route, and visited the Natchez In- 
dians, taking possession of the country in the name of 
France ; and not long afterward a brave priest established 
a Catholic mission among the Tunicas. In 1699, an expe- 
dition sent out by Louis XIV., composed of 200 French- 
Canadians, and headed by Iberville and Bienville, occupied 
Ship and Cat Islands, and erected a fort at Biloxi. Later, 
they laid out the town of Rosalie, on the site of Natchez. 
A settlement arose here in 17 16; and 13 years afterward 
the Indians massacred 200 of its citizens, and carried 500 
into captivity. French and Choctaw armies marched 

against the Natchez tribe, and in a series of arduous campaigns entirely destroyed it, killing 
the bravest warriors, and sending hundreds of others to San Domingo, as slaves. The 
Chickasaws dwelt in northern Mississippi, and repulsed two campaigns of Bienville. In 



Settled at Fort Rosalie. 

Settled in 1716 

Founded by ... . Frenchmen. 
Admitted as a State, . . . :8i7 

Population in i860, . , . 791,305 

In 1870 827,922 

In 1880 1,131,507 

American-born, . . . i,i22,3r" 
Foreign-born, . . . 9,209 

Males, 567.177 

Females, 564, 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), . 1,289, 

White, 539,703 

Colored, 747, 720 

Population to the square mile, 24.4 
Voting Population (1880), . 238,532 

Vote for Harrison (i888), 30,096 

Vote for Cleveland (1888), 85,471 
Net State Debt, . . $3,246,183.57 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . 
Area (square miles), 
U. S. Representatives 
Militia (Disciplined^ 
Counties, .... 
Post-offices, ... 
Railroads (miles), . 
Vessels, .... 

Tonnage, . . . 
Manufactures (yearly 

Operatives, . . 

Yearly Wages, . 
Farm Land (in acres), 

Farm-Land Values, 

Farm Products (yearly! 
Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 193,119 

Newspapers, 163 

Latitude 3o"i3' to ss" N. 

Longitude, . . 88=7' to 9i''4i' W. 

Temperature 3° to loio 

Mean Temperature (Jackson), 64° 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Vicksburg, 13.373 

Meridian, 10,624 

Natchez, 10,101 

Greenville, 6,658 

Jackson, 5.920 

Columbus, 4,559 

Aberdeen 3>449 

Yazoo City, 3.286 

Biloxi, 3,234 

Wesson, 3.'** 



000,000 
46,810 
7 

1.525 

75 

1.357 

2,332 

191 

11.074 

$7,495,802 

5.827 

$1,192,645 

15,883,251 

S92,844.9I5 

563,701,844 



^j8 A'LVC,\S JIANDBOOJs: OF 77/E UNITED STATES. 

1736 he led 550 French and Swiss soldiers and 600 Choctaws in boats up the Tombigbee 
River, to Cotton-Gin Port, and marched against Ackia, where the Chickasaws defeated the 
allies with terrible loss. At the same time D'Artaguette and 130 French soldiers, and many 
Miami and Iroquois Indians, advanced from Illinois to Chickasaw Bluffs and Pontotoc, and 
there suffered defeat at the hands of the Chickasaws, the commander, with his priest and 
16 other officers and soldiers, being burned at the stake. In 1752 the Marquis de Vaudreuil 
was beaten by the same indomitable tribe, and threw his artillery into the river at Cotton- 
Gin Port, where cannon have since been found. 

Most of Mississippi was included in the vast cession of territory made by France to Eng- 
land by the Treaty of Paris, in 1763, and belonged to the Province of Illinois. The British 
province of West Florida at first included the region south of 31° ; and afterwards the region 
south of the latitude of the mouth of the Yazoo. Willing's American detachment suffered 
a repulse at Natchez in 1778, and the Tory inhabitants rebuilt old Fort Panmure, and held 
it for England. In 1779 Don Bernardo de Galvez captured Natchez, at the head of a force 
of Spanish infantry and American volunteers. After the Spaniards had held Mississippi for 
three years, Alston, Lyman, Phelps and other New-England and Carolinian immigrants and 
royalists bombarded and captured Natchez ; and then, assailed by the Spaniards, retreated 
to Savannah in a five-months' march across the country, suffering terrible losses and hard- 
ships. When West Florida was confirmed to Spain 
by treaty, and the United States occupied the eastern 
side of the Mississippi Valley down thus far, the two 
powej's debated for years as to whether their fron- 
tiers lay at 31°, or the Yazoo. Spain yielded, in 1 798, 
and Congress formed the disputed territory, extend- 
ing from the Mississippi to the Chattahoochee, into 
the Mississippi Territory. In 1800 the present State 
lay in several jurisdictions ; from the Gulf to 31°, in 
Spanish Louisiana; from 31° to the parallel of the 
Yazoo, in Mississippi Territory ; and from the Yazoo 
northward nearly to Tennessee, in Georgia. Con- 
gress bought out the claims of Georgia in the West 
in 1802, and added the domain to the South-Carolina 
cession, naming the whole the Territory South of the River Ohio, and in 1804 adding it to 
Mississippi Territory. The region south of 31° was annexed to the United States by the 
Louisiana Purchase. In 1812 this coast-strip became a part of Mississippi Territory, which 
included also Alabama. The latter was set apart five years later, leaving Mississippi with 
her present boundaries. 

The Choctaws of the south and the Chickasaws of the north were deported across the 
Mississippi River in 1832-4, and then a great influx of immigration occupied their deserted 
fields. 

Mississippi was one of the first States to attempt secession, and as early as January, 1861, 
planted artillery at Vicksburg to command the river. Late in 1861 United-States naval 
expeditions captured Biloxi and Ship Island. In 1862 Beauregard's Confederates yielded 
Corinth to Halleck's National troops, after a long siege ; and in October Gens. Price and 
Van Dorn assailed the town with 35,000 Confederates, and were terribly defeated by Rose- 
crans, sacrificing g,ooo men. At luka the two armies lost 1,000 men each. Vicksburg, on 
its high bluffs, was the key of the Mississippi, and bristled with fortifications and cannon, 
which foiled Farragut, in June, and Sherman in December, 1862. In April, 1863, Grant 
crossed the river at Bruinsburg ; captured Grand Gulf and Jackson ; defeated Pemberton's 
25,000 troops at Champion Hills; and on July 4th received the surrender of Vicksburg, with 
27,000 soldiers. In this campaign, which practically ended the war in Mississippi, Grant 
lost 8,000 men, and the Confederates lost 9,000. In 1865 Mississippi repealed the ordinance 




THE STATE OE MISSISSIPPI. 



439 




WHITWORTH 



COTTON FIELD. 



of secession, and abolished slavery. It adopted a new con- 
stitution in 1869 ; and in 1870, having ratified the 14th 
and 15th Amendments, its representatives were admitted 
to Congress. The property valuation was lowered between 
i860 and 1870, by the war and the liberation of the slaves, 
from $607,324,911 to $209,197,345. The State adopted 
a new constitution on November i, 1890. 

The Name of the State signifies "Great River." It 
is an Algonquin compound word, originally spelled Meckif SSe, changed by the Chevalier 
Tonty to Michc Scpe, by Pere Laval to Alichisepe, by Pere Labatt to Misisipi, and by Mar- 
quette to Mississipi. The popular names of Mississippi are The Bayou State, and The 
Border- Eagle State. 

The Arms of Mississippi bear an American eagle, with outspread wings, holding 
arrows in one talon and an olive branch in the other, on a round silver field. 

The Governors of Mississippi have been : Territorial : Winthrop Sargent, 1798-1801 ; 
Wm. C. C. Claiborne, 1801-5 ; Robert Williams, 1805-9; David Holmes, 1809-17. State: 
David Holmes, 1817-19, and 1825-7 ; Geo. Poindexter, 1819-21 ; Walter Leake, 1822-5; 
Gerard C. Brandon, 1827-31 ; Abram M. Scott, 1832-3 ; Hiram G. Runnels, 1834-5 ; Chas. 
Lynch, 1835-7 ; Alex. G. McNutt, 1838-41; Tilghman M. Tucker, 1842-3; Albert G. 
Brown, 1844-8; Jos. W. Matthews, 1848-49; John A. Quitman, 1850-1 ; John I. Guion 
(acting), 1851 ; Jas. Whitefield (acting), 1851-2 ; Henry S. Foote, 1852-4; John J. McRae, 
1854 7; Wm. McWillie, 1858-9; John J. Pettus, 1860-3; Chas. Clarke, 1864-5; Wm. L. 
Sharkey (appointed), 1865-6; Benj. G. Humphreys, 1866-70; Adelbert Ames (appointed), 
1868-70; Jas. I. Alcorn, 1870; R. C. Powers (acting), 1870-4; Adelbert Ames, 1874-6; 
fohn Marshall Stone (acting), 1876-7; John M. Stone, 1878-81 ; Robert Lowry, 1882-9; 
and John M. Stone, 1890-6. 

Descriptive. — The Mississippi lowlands cover 7,460 square miles, and the remaining 
five sixths of the State are divided between rolling and level uplands, with smooth prairies 
in the northeast. The streams descend gradually, and their valleys are bordered by hum- 
mocks or second bottoms, while in their lower reaches they often flood the country for miles. 
The elevation of the uplands varies from 150 to 800 feet, and they fall away very gradually 
to the south and southwest. The extreme south contains extensive 
marshes and immeasurable pineries. The Yazoo Delta, a g 
ellipsoid, 160 miles long, is one of the most fertile districts in 
vast valley of the Mississippi. It lies between Vicksburg 
Tennessee, covering 6, 250 square miles, with swamps and lakes 
bayous and prairies and great woods. The cultivated 
lands lie on the low ridges and along the lakes and 
rivers, the rest being cane-brakes and cypress-swamps. 
The Delta would lie deep under water every spring but 
for the levees, protecting part of these wonderfully 
fertile lands. The two levee districts have efficient 
boards of commissioners to build and guard the levees, 
raising the funds by a tax on each bale of cotton. 
The gray and white clays of the northeast and the region of long-leaf pine are unproductive ; 
but the rest of Mississippi is of remarkable fertility, and half of it remains unused. 

No part of the 90 miles of Mississippi coast lies on the Gulf of Mexico, whose waves 
beat along a range of low islands from ten to 30 miles off-shore. Five light-houses rise from 
these lonely sand-bars. Ship Island is a low bank of white sand, seven miles long, with 
groves at its eastern end, and on the west the best harbor of the Mississippi coast. This 
was the headquarters of the West-Gulf Blockading Squadron and of Gen. Butler's army, 
before the capture of Pensacola and New Orleans. Inside the islands lies the placid 




CLINTON : MISSISSIPPI COLLEGE. 



440 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF 7V/E UNITED STATES. 




PASS CHRISTIAN 



STREET SCENE. 



Mississippi Sound, in places deep enough for large ships, and bordered by low bluffs of 
shining white sand. The shallow harbors of Mississippi City, Biloxi and Bay St. Louis are 
mainly occupied by summer-resorts, among the water-oaks and live-oaks, magnolias and 
cedars, with the solemn pines on one side and the opalescent waters of the Sound on the 
other. Pass Christian is^ favorite pleasure-resort, with a fine hotel, two hours from New 
Orleans and three hours from Mobile. Ancient Biloxi rambles over a sea-fronting line of 
sand-hills, with shell-roads leading inland ; and is a happy haven for sufferers from consump- 
tion and asthma. In the summer great excursion-parties from New Orleans crowd its hotels 

and restaurants, and go fishing among the shadowy 
islands off-shore. The oysters and oranges of Biloxi 
are equally celebrated for their flavors, and the place 
has canneries for oysters and shrimp. The waters out- 
side abound in red-fish, black-fish, red snappers, pom- 
pano, Spanish mackerel, sheepshead, trout, and other 
food-fish. Ocean Springs, half a mile from the sea- 
beach, is a resort much visited by the people of New 
Orleans and iVIobile, who can enjoy in the same hour 
fine salt-water bathing and the medicinal virtues of 
saline-chalybeate waters. Mississippi also has several popular inland pleasure-resorts. 
Cooper's Well is one of the 30 chief American springs described in the Encydopcedia Bri- 
tannica, where it ranks as an iron water, beneficial for dyspepsia, dropsy, ancemia and other 
diseases. Castalian Springs pours out red sulphur waters, strongly charged with carbonic- 
acid gas and sulphuretted hydrogen. Brown's Wells, in Copiah County, are noted for their 
curative properties. 

The Mississippi River flows along the western frontier, held in its channel by immense 
and costly levees. The Tennessee River forms the northwestern frontier for ten miles. 
The chief affluent of the Mississippi from this State is the Yazoo River, formed by the con- 
fluence of the Yalobusha and Tallahatchie, and flowing 264 miles southwest to the great 
river, seven miles above Vicksburg. It is navigable throughout, and has a fleet of ten 
steamboats, with a yearly commerce of $3,500,000, including over 50,000 bales of cotton. 
The Tallahatchie has a yearly commerce of $1,500,000 in cotton, supporting nine steam- 
boats, running up 100 miles to Sharkey's Landing, and sometimes to Coldwater, 165 miles. 
The Yalobusha has been ascended by steamboats to Grenada. Tchula Lake is a bayou of 
the Yazoo, 67 miles long, and sending out yearly 14,000 bales of cotton on its four steam- 
boats. The Big Black River, 400 miles long, enters the Mississippi at Grand Gulf. The 
Pearl River has had several Government parties at work for many years, from its mouth to 
Jackson (310 miles) and Edinburgh (440 miles), and the yearly commerce now amounts to 
$1,600,000, employing eleven steamboats. The Tombigbee River flows off into Alabama, 
the head of winter-navigation being at Aberdeen, and at favorable seasons steamboats may 
reach Fulton. Steamers ascend the Noxubee to Macon, q\\ miles. The Pascagoula River 
is navigable 85 miles to the confluence of the Leaf and the Chicasaha, for light vessels. 

The Geology of Mississippi shows a small sub-carboniferous district -in the northeast, 
succeeded by Cretaceous formations. Half of the State is Tertiary, lying between the Cre- 
taceous and the Mississippi bottoms, and to within 20 miles of the Gulf. Although con- 
tiguous to the rich metalliferous States of Alabama 
and Tennessee, Mississippi has no mines, and her 
limestones and sandstones, marls and fire-clays, 
have but little economic value. 

The Climate is almost sub-tropical, especially 
along the Gulf, where the freezing-point is rarely 
reached. The summer season extends from May 
1st to October ist, with the thermometer from 61° whitworth , whitworth college. 




THE STATE OE MISSISSIPPI. 



44 1 




GIRLS' INDUSTRIAL INS. AND COLLEGE. 



to 95° (with a mean of 8l°); but the heat is tem- 
pered by variable winds, especially those from the 
Gulf. The mean annual temperature of the Gulf 
towns is 68° ; of Vicksburg, 65° ; of the north, 61°. 
The rainfall varies from 65 inches on the seaboard 
to 60 inches in the north, and mostly occurs in win- 
ter and spring. The death-rate, 13 yearly in 1,000, 
is less than those of New York, Massachusetts, Vir- 
ginia, and Pennsylvania. The mortality of the whites is only 10 in 1,000. Lung and throat 
diseases and catarrh never originate here, and are relieved when brought hither. Diphtheria 
is almost unknown ; and the yellow fever has not entered the State since 1878. 

Agriculture is pre-eminently the industry of Mississippi, whose responsive soil and stim- 
ulating climate yield a great profusion and variety of the fruits of the earth. More than 
four fifths of the working population are in farming pursuits. The great plantations have 
given way to small farms, the 43,000 estates enumerated in i860 having become 125,000 in 
1890. There are 1,000,000 acres of Government land, mostly in the long-leaf-pine region 
towards the Gulf; and the railways also have large tracts for sale, at low prices. 

The cotton crop of i860 reached 1,200,000 bales, but the next five battle-years caused 
the product to fall off greatly. By 1880 it had reached 960,000 bales, worth $43,000,000, 
and the State stood foremost of all in this product. It is now second to Texas. One third 
of this great wealth-making crop is produced by white men's labor, mainly in the upland 
counties, where the climate is salubrious ; and the rest by negroes, mainly in the Delta. 
28,000,000 bushels of cotton-seed are harvested each year. The corn-crop is about 
25,000,000 bushels. Mississippi also yields yearly 3,500,000 bushels of oats, 2,000,000 of 
rice, 700,000 of potatoes, and 500,000 of wheat. Figs, oranges, and Scuppernong grapes 
grow along the Gulf Coast; blackberries overrun the wild lands everywhere; and straw- 
berries and melons and other fruits and vegetables, are sent to 
the cities. Over 1,200 car-loads have been shipped North on 
one railway, in a single season. 

The planters long waged war on " General 
Green," as they called the grasses; but the un- 
profitableness of exclusive cotton-culture has 
turned their attention to pasturage. The valuable 
Bermuda grass yields five tons of hay to the acre ; 
Japan clover has spread over the State with mar- 
vellous rapidity ; and crab-grass and broom-sedge 
also afford very good forage. The yearly hay-crop 
is 60,000 tons. The live-stock includes 104,000 mules, 99,000 horses, 1,636,000 hogs, 
440,000 cattle, and 200,000 sheep. Here are the largest dairying interests in the Gulf States ; 
and many herds of valuable Jersey, Short-Horn and Holstein cattle. 

Forests cover three fifths of Mississippi, and include oak, red cedar, black walnut, poplar, 
Cottonwood, tupelo and other trees. The long-leafed yellow-pine fills most of the country 
south of the Meridian-Vicksburg line. The pine-woods alone are valued at $250,ooo,-ooo. 
The cypress and cane of the swamps ; the chestnut and walnut, beech and hickory of the 
bluffs ; the red gum of the Yazoo ; all have an economic value. 

Government. — The governor and six executive officers are elected for four years. The 
legislature of 45 four-years' senators and 133 four-years' representatives, includes a number 
of colored members. The three Supreme-Court justices, nine circuit judges and twelve 
chancellors are appointed by the governor. No atheist may hold office. The State House 
is a dignified old classic building, with a fine portico. The militia, or National Guard, includes 
tliree regiments and two battalions of infantry and several light batteries, armed by the 
National Government. The valuation of the State increased 50 per cent, between 1880 and 




LYCEUrt 
UNIVERSITY OF MISSISSIPPI. 



442 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNTTED STATES. 




1890. The State Lunatic Asylum, the Institute 
for the Deaf and Dumb, the Institute for the Blind, 
and the Penitentiary are all at Jackson. The East- 
Mississippi Insane Asylum is at Meridian. The 
hospitals at Vicksburg and Natchez receive sub- 
sidies from the State. The Penitentiary is kept 
only for sick or aged or life-time convicts, the 
others being leased to outside contractors. A 
Board of Control, consisting of the three railroad 
vii,K.!.BUHb. commissioners, the Governor and Attorney-Gen- 

eral, manage the Penitentiary, and lessees are held to strict account for the humane treat- 
ment of the convicts. After 1894, the leasing system will be abolished. 

Education is free to all children between five and 21, and is supervised by a State Board 
and appointed county superintendents and elected boards of trustees. The State normal 
schools are at Holly Springs, and Tougaloo for colored students; and there are private 
normal schools. The University of Mississippi, chartered in 1844, has 250 students, a library 
of 12,000 volumes (in a handsome new Elizabethan building), and an endowment exceeding 
$500,000, on which the State pays interest. There are undergraduate courses in art, science 
and philosophy ; post-graduate courses ; and a law school. The University is near Oxford, 
and has three dormitories, an observatory, gymnasium, and other buildings, with a domain 
of 640 acres. Students (even of other States) receive tuition free, the expenses of the Uni- 
versity being met by the State. The Agricultural and Mechanical College, for white boys, 
supported also by the State, and on the military system, is at Starkville ; and with it is con- 
nected the United States Experimental Station ; about 350 students. The Alcorn Agricultural 
and Mechanical College, in the southwest, has 240 colored students. The Industrial Insti- 
tute and College for the Education of White Girls of . .-,^ 
Mississippi was opened at Columbus, in 1885, and has 
upwards of 300 students in the usual branches, besides 
drawing and wood-carving, stenography and type- 
writing, book-keeping and telegraphy, printing and 
dress-making. The State supports the college and 
gives free tuition to 300 students. All the girls are 
uniformed in navy-blue dresses, sailor-hats and tan 
gloves. Mississippi College, founded in 1830, at 
Clinton, is a Baptist institution. The colored people 
send their young men and women to Alcorn College, 
to Rust University at Holly Springs, and to the nor- 
mal schools at Holly Springs, Tougaloo and Jackson, and the Meridian Academy. 

The National cemeteries in Mississippi are sacred to the Union soldiers who died on her 
soil, while reclaiming her for the great Republic. That at Vicksburg contains 16,618 graves ; 
and the Corinth National Cemetery has 5,719. 

Chief Cities. — Vicksburg has enjoyed a large growth since her mournful siege left her 
in ruins, and possesses excellent foundries and machine-shops, and receives 60,000 bales of 
cotton yearly. Except at high water, steamboats are obliged to land two miles below ; and 
a railroad runs thence to the city. Here the Walnut Hills extend along the river for miles, 
with a height of 500 feet, affording the most picturesque scenery on the lower Mississippi. 
Jackson, the capital, is on the Pearl River, in an undulating region of rich yellow loam, 
prolific in corn and cotton, vegetables and fruits. Natchez is a pleasant city, with its public 
buildings and homes in Natchez-on-the-Hill, stretching along a bluff 200 feet high, with a 
park looking down upon the Mississippi, and its wharves below, in Natchez-under-the-Hill. 
The railroads of Mississippi cost $60,000,000, and include several great lines. Manu- 
factures employ 6,000 persons, with a yearly product of $7,500,000. 




HOLLY SPRINGS RAILWAY STATION. 




2,l6l 

115 
2,491 

6,004 

241 



Missouri fell to the share of 

France, by virtue of the dis- 
coveries of Marquette and 

Joliet, in 1673, and La Salle 

and Hennepin, in 1682. The 

vast empire thus discovered 

and claimed for France was 

colonized from Canada, whose 

daring explorers in 1705 as- 
cended the Missouri River to the Kansas. A settlement 
arose at St. Genevieve about the year 1750 ; and in 1720 
the French founded Fort Orleans, not far below the site of 
Lexington, for the Indian fur-trade, and to hold in check 
the Spaniards, advancing from Mexico. Within a few years 
the Missouri Indians destroyed this establisliment. 

The site of St. Louis was selected by Pierre Laclede 
Ligueste, who sent Auguste Chouteau to found a village 
there, in 1764, for the headquarters of Maxent, Laclede & 
Cie. Many French families exiled themselves from Illinois 
when that province passed into English hands ; and under 
the benign laws of Spain they dwelt along the Missouri 
shore, trading in furs with the northwestern Indians, and 
farming along the rich bottom-lands. In 1780 the British 
governor at Michilimackinac sent 150 soldiers and 1,500 
Indian allies to attack the little Spanish capital, but they 
succeeded only in killing and capturing a few score people, 
without occupying the town. After this (J'atinee dit coup) 
St. Louis girded herself with stockades, bastions and martello 
towers ; and Don Eugenio Pourre (in 1781) struck back at 
the invaders by successfully leading 65 Spanish and French 
soldiers and a force of Indians against Fort St. Joseph, in the 
Michigan country. The Spanish lieutenant-governors resi- 
dent at St. Louis were Don Pedro Piernas (1770-5), Fran- 
cisco Cruzat (1775-8 and 1780-8), Don Ferdinando Leyda 
(1778-80,) Don Manuel Perez (1788-93), Zenon Trudeau (1793-8), and Delassus. Daniel 
Boone, the pioneer of Kentucky, became a Spanish subject in Missouri in 1797, and was 
made Syndic of the Femme-Osage district. In 1 769 Blanchette founded St. Charles, as a 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at ... . St. Genevieve. 

Settled in 1755 

Founded by ... . Frenchmen. 

Admitted as a State, . . . 1821 

Population in i860, . . .1,182,012 

In 1870, 1,721,295 

In 1880, 2,168,380 

American-born, . . . 1,956,802 
Foreign-born, .... 211,578 

Males 1,127,187 

Females 1,041,193 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), . 2,679,184 

White, 2,524,468 

Colored, 154,131 

Population to the square mile, 31.5 

Voting Population, . . . 541,207 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 236,257 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 261,974 

Net State Debt, , . . $8,439,749.20 

Assessed Valuation of 
Property (1890), . . $786,000,000 

Area (square miles), . . . 69,415 

U. S. Representatives (1893), 

IVIilitia (Disciplined), . . . 

Counties, 

Post-offices, .... 

Railroads (miles), .... 

Vessels, 

Tonnage 135,853 

Manufactures (j'early), $165,384,005 

Operatives 63,995 

Yearly Wages, . . . $24,309,716 

Farm Land (in acres), . 28,177,990 
Farm-Land Values, $375,633,307 
Farm Products (yearly) $95,912,660 

Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 376,977 

Newspapers, 849 

Latitude, .... 36° to 4o°3o' N. 

Longitude, . . 89''2' to 95''44' W. 

Temperature, . . . — 22° to 106" 

Mean Temperature (St. Louis), 55° 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). 

St. Louis, 451,770 

Kansas City, 132,716 

St. Joseph 52,324 

Springfield, 21,850 

Sedalia, 14,068 

Hannibal, 12,857 

Joplin, 9,943 

Moberly, .... 8,215 

Carthage, 7,981 

Nevada 7,262 



444 



KING'S IkANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CATHEDRAL SPIRES AND MERAMEC 
RIVER. 



military post; and a Spanish fort rose at New Madrid in 17S6. 
In March, 1804, Don Carlos Dehault Delassus transferred Upper 
Louisiana to Capt. Amos Stoddard, U. S. A., who brought a de- 
tachment of troops across from Illinois, receiving the province in 
the name of France, and assuming it the next day for the Ameri- 
can Government. The Louisiana Purchase made by the United 
States from Napoleon in 1803 included Missouri, which for a 
time lay in the District of Louisiana, afterwards the Territory of 
Louisiana. The Territory of Missouri, founded in 1812, covered 
Arkansas, Missouri, Iowa, western Minnesota, the Indian Territory, 
Dakota, Nebraska, and most of Kansas, Colorado and Wyoming. 
It parted with Arkansas in 1819. In 1821, after the State of 
Missouri came into being, the Territory of Missouri covered the 
remainder of the former Territory, until 1834, when it became obsolete. 

Cote sans Dessein (now Barkersville) and the American colony on Loutre Island were 
in 1807 the Far West of all white men's settlements. In 18 10, 150 Kentucky families set- 
tled about Franklin, in Howard County, where a number of them were killed by the 
Indians. In 1808 Chouteau and Lewis effected a treaty with the Osages, pushing back 
their frontier to Fort Clark, above Lexington, and gaining millions of acres for settlement. 
Then, and after the War of 1812, thousands of immigrants poured in from Kentucky, 
Tennessee and the Carolinas. The application of Missouri to be admitted to the Union, 
in 1818, was followed by a long period of angry discussion, the Northern States being 
sternly opposed to the creation of another 
slave-holding commonwealth, while the 
Southern people maintained that since 
slavery had always existed in Missouri 
under the French and Spanish govern- 
ments, it could not legally be abolished. 
Finally, the famous Missouri Compromise 
went into effect, bringing the new State 
into the Union with her existing social system, but excluding slavery from all the rest of 
the Louisiana Purchase north of 36° 30'. The Platte Purchase, which included Platte, 
Buchanan, Andrew, Nodaway, Holt and Atchison counties, was acquired from the Sacs 
and Foxes in 1836-7, and annexed to Missouri, with the consent of Congress. It covers 
a large area in the northwestern portion of the State. 

The first steamboat in Missouri waters was the Enter- 
prise, in 181 5; the first to reach St. Louis was the Gen. 
Pike, in 1817 ; the first to ascend the Missouri was the Inde- 
pendence, which reached Franklin and Chariton in 1819. 

The First and Fourth companies of the Second Missouri 
X'olunteers fought in the Seminole War, in Florida, and de- 
feated the savages in a bloody battle at Okeechobee Lake. 
The chief events of the following years were the deadly visita- 
tions of the Asiatic cholera, in 1832, 1838, 1839, and 1849; 
the receptions to Lafayette (in 1825) and Daniel Webster (in 
1837); and the settlement of the Mormons at Independ- 
ence and Far West, in 1831-4, and their forcible eviction 
from the State. When the Mexican War broke out, three 
Missouri regiments under Kearney marched along the Santa 
Fe trail, 900 miles, in 50 days, and changed New Mexico 
from a Mexican province to an American Territory. Then 
MISSISSIPPI RIVER, BELOW ST. LOUIS. thcsc bravc Missouri troopers rode through Chihuahua, 




THE MERCHANTS' BRIDGE. 




THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



445 




ST. LOUIS STATUES : 
MBOLDT-COLUMBUS— SHAKE8PEARE-BENT0N. 



winning several battles, and down to the Gulf of Mexico. 
At the outbreak of the late civil war, the governor en- 
deavored to lead Missouri into the company of the Confed- 
erate States, and a part of the General Assembly (not a quo- 
rum) declared "the ties heretofore existing between 
Missouri and the United States of America, dissolved." 
But the people remained faithful to the Stars and Stripes, 
and elected a convention (by 80,000 majority) which voted 
heavily against Secession, and declared the Governor and 
General Assembly to be deposed. Governor Jackson 
thereupon proclaimed the State to be "a sovereign, free 
and independent Republic," and large Confederate armies 
assembled in the southwest, marching up from Arkansas 
and Texas. With four regiments of Missouri Unionists, 
Lyon broke up the encampment of neutral State troops 
at St. Louis ; occupied Jefferson City and Boonville ; and pressed the Southern forces into 
the Ozark Mountains. lie then marched against the enemy in the South, and was killed 
at Wilson's Creek, where his 5,400 troops were defeated by 12,000 Confederates, in a terrible 
six-hours' battle. When 1862 opened, the Southerners held nearly half Missouri, but Gen. 
Curtis and 12,000 Federals drove them into Arkansas, and inflicted a crushing defeat at 
Pea Ridge. During the war, army after army of Confederate troops invaded Missouri, 

endeavoring to conquer the State, and so possess 

^^^ ' also the great regions of Kansas, New Mexico, and 

'- Arizona. Bandsof guerillas, professingallegiance 

~ to the Confederacy or the Union, carried on a 

horrible warfare, and destroyed vast amounts of 
property. In 1864 Gen. Price made a foray 
across the State from the southeast to Jefferson 
City, Independence and Lexington, and then 
retired before the concentrating National armies, 
Gen. Pope and Commodore Foote in 1S62 reduced 
the Confederate forts at New Madrid and Island 
No. 10, after some hard fighting, capturing three 
generals, 7,000 men, 158 cannon and eight steamboats. Among other local events of the 
conflict were the Confederate siege and capture of Lexington, with its garrison of 3,000 
men ; Zagonyi's picturesque cavalry charge at Springfield ; Grant's bloody fight at Belmont ; 
Ewing's defence of Pilot Knob ; and the defeat of Johnson's Federal command at Cen- 
tralia. Missouri contributed 108,777 soldiers to the National Army, and 30,000 to the 
Confederate army, or 60 per cent, of its men subject to military duty. Of these 27,000 died 
in the two services. This was the only Slave State voluntarily to abolish human slavery, 
which was done early in 1865, by a convention 
elected by 30,000 majority. Lincoln's Procla- 
mation of Emancipation did not apply to this 
State, and of her own accord she freed her 
1 14,000 negroes, valued at $40,000,000. After 
the war, Missouri repealed her stringent emer- 
gency legislation ; declared a general amnesty ; 
and became a liberal Democratic State. She 
has since grown in wealth, population and 
power, with phenomenal rapidity, and stands 
among the foremost commonwealths of the 
mighty West. bibley bridge ; Missouri river. 




RON MOUNTA N 




446 



K'imVS //A.VDBOOA' OF THE UNITED STATES. 



The Name Missouri means Big Muddy 
{A/issui, or Alissi, Algonquin for "Big," and Soiiri 
or Shozhay, Dakota for " Muddy"), and was applied 
by the Indians to the river which still bears it, pour- 
ing down in the springtime laden with the yellow 
mud of thousands of miles of prairie. Grand Old 
Missouri is an appellation which Gov. Francis used 
in his campaign speeches. It used to be called The 
Iroii-AIoimtain State, and also Tke Bullion State, and 
had, furthermore, a ribald name, now happily heard 
no more. The people of Pike County were among the most indomitable pioneers of the Far 
West, crossing the Plains in ark-like wagons with their families. They were called "Pikes." 

The Arms of Missouri were adopted in 1822, and consist of a grizzly bear passant gardant 




PILOT KNOB. 



proper; on 
the arms of 




I 844-2 



LOUIS : FOREST PARK. 

Austin A. King, \i 



a chief engrailed azure, a crescent argent ; on the sinister side argent, 

the United States; the whole within a band inscribed UNITED WE 

Stand, Divided we Fall. The crest is a full-faced 

grated helmet, supporting a cloud, with a star above, and 

23 smaller stars. The supporters are two white or grizzly 

bears of Missouri rampant gardant proper. The motto is 

^^-f S.\LUS POPULI SuPREMA Lex Esto, "Let the Welfare 

''^"^ of the People be the Supreme Law." 

The Governors of Missouri were : Territorial* Benj. 
Howard, i Si 2-6; Wm. Clark, 1816-20. State: Alex. 
McNair, 1S20-4; Frederick Bates, 1 824-5 ; John Miller, 
1825-32; Daniel Dunklin, 1832-6; Lilburn VV. Boggs, 
1836-40; Thos. Reynolds, 1840-4; John C. Edwards, 
?-53 ; Sterling Price, 1853-7; Trusten Polk, 1857; Robert 
M. Stewart, 1857-61 ; Claiborne F. Jackson, 1861 ; Hamilton R. Gamble (provisional), 
i86r-4; Thos. C. Fletcher, 1864-8; Jas. W. McClurg, 1S68-71 ; B. 
Gratz Brown, 1871-3 ; Silas Woodson, 1873-5; Charles H. Hardin, 
1875-7; John S. Phelps, 1877-81; Thos. T Crittenden, 1881-5 ; 
John S. Marmaduke, 1885-9; David R. Francis, 1889-93. 

Descriptive. — Missouri is one of the most diversified of the 
Western States, as to soil, products, climate, and surface, and extends 
through 4^ degrees of latitude. The elevation of the land varies 
from 287 feet, in the southeast, to 3,000 feet at Cassville. The noble 
Mississippi River forms its eastern frontier, and the Missouri borders 
it for a long way on the west. A line drawn from Hannibal to the 
southwestern corner of Missouri separates the prairie region, on the north and west, from 
the forest region, on the east and south. North of the Missouri is a region of broken 
land, with for- i ests in the east and along the great rivers, and the rest occu- 

pied by wide ^. rolling prairies, well-watered and productive, and in effect a 

prolongation of -,^IR^ the plains of Illinois and Iowa. Similar high grassy plateaus 

run west from the Ozark Mountains, and from the 
Mississippi to the Big Black. South of the Missouri 
the forests of the east are offset by these open prairies 
of the west, with large rivers, like the Osage and Gas- 
conade, running northeast into the Missouri. The undu- 
lating and fertile lowlands of the southeast, with their 
swamps and deep woods and large flat hills, are rich 
and productive, with a semi-tropical climate, adapted 
ST. LOUIS : POST-OFFICE. f'"' •'ii'si'iy; cotton and tobacco, wheat and corn. The 




ST. LOUIS : FOUR COURTS. 




THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



447 




ST. LOUIS : COURT-HOUSE. 



swamp counties are six in number, with parts of four 
others ; and cover 3,000 square miles. The rapid 
clearing away of the forests has opened here a produc- 
tive farming country, only a part of which is liable to 
inundation. In the extreme southeast, about New 
Madrid, occurred the great earthquake of i8ii-i2, 
lasting for several months, the earth rising and fall- 
ing in great undulations, hills sinking, lakes opening, 
and vast fissures and rents in the earth ejecting mud and 
smoke. On the day of the earthquake that destroyed 
Caracas, in South America, these phenomena ceased. 

The Ozark Mountains run from the Missouri River, east of the Osage, southwest into 
Arkansas and Kansas, changing from isolated hills and knobs to the high and arable table- 
lands of the West. Another ridge runs southeast from the Ozarks to the Mississippi, and 
follows the river, in high bluffs, from the Meramec to Ste. Genevieve. This line of high- 
lands includes many bold knobs, rising from 500 to 1,000 feet, like Pilot Knob and Iron 
Mountain. The delightful Arcadia Valley, near Shepherd's Mountain, has the summer- 
cottages of many St. -Louis families. 

A large part of the State was originally covered with woodlands, oaks and elms, hicko- 
ories and maples in the north, huge cypresses and syca- 
amores, cottonwoods and gum-trees in the south, with 
scattered forests of red cedars and pines, pecans and 
persimmons. Great quantities of hardwood lumber are 
cut every year ; and the saw-mills of Canton and Hanni- 
bal manufacture millions of feet of pine lumber from 
Wisconsin and Minnesota logs. The south counties 
contain immeasureable forests of yellow pine and live-oak. 
Northern Missouri is watered by the Chariton, Grand, 
Platte and other streams flowing to the Missouri ; and 
the Cuivre, Salt, Fabius, and other Mississippi tributa- 
ries. From the Kansas to the Mississippi the Missouri 
River runs east 436 miles, a broad, deep and turbid 
stream, with bottoms of light, deep and incredibly rich 
soil. The Missouri and Mississippi afford highways for a vast steamboat commerce, and are 
continually under improvement by United-States Engineers, with snag-boats and working 
parties. The Osage River is a noble stream, flowing from Kansas to the Missouri River, 
navigated by several steamboats to Tuscumbia (60 miles) and sometimes as far as Warsaw 
(170 miles). It has a yearly commerce of $600,000 in railway ties, rafts of oak and wal- 
nut logs, and steamboat freights. The Gasconade enters the Missouri below the Osage, 
and is navigated by three small steamboats, as far up as Arlington, the chief shipments 
being railway ties and wheat. The Lamine is another navigable affluent of the Missouri. 
The Meramec and St. Francis reach the Mississippi, and 
the St. -Francis, Black, White, and other Arkansas rivers 
have their upper waters in southern Missouri. 

There are scores of interesting caverns in Missouri, 
miles in length, with hidden streams and lakes, and vast 
halls and corridors, enriched with brilliant stalactites. 
The regions about Hannibal, Springfield and Rolla abound 
in these hidden halls, cutting far under the founda- 
tions of the hills. In the south there are many mam- 
moth springs, bursting from the ground with great fcf ce, 
and pouring their crystal floods down to the winding 




KANSAS CITY : SOUTHWESTERN ELEVATOR. 
F. H. PEAVEY & CO. 'S SYSTEM. 




ST. LOUIS : SHAW'S GARDEN. 



44?? 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




rivers. Sweet Springs, midway between Kansas City and 
Jefferson City, is the most fashionable watering-place in Mis- 
souri, with several valuable saline and sulphur springs, huge 
baths of salt water, and a hotel and cottages amid velvety 
lawns and a park of forest-trees, 500 feet above St. Louis, 
and near the Black-Water River. Pertle Springs, in the same 
region, has the large Minnewawa Hotel and many summer- 
cottages. The Windsor Spring, with its calcic waters ; the 
Sulphur Springs; and the famous Montesano Springs are in 
the region of the Meramec. El-Dorado Springs, down in the 
southwest, are a group of chalybeate waters, with large 
hotels. Excelsior Springs, northeast of Kansas City, are 
famous for their efficacy in healing rheumatism and dyspepsia and other chronic diseases. 
The Chouteau, Monagaw, Cheltenham and Elk waters are sulphurous. 

The Climate is full of extremes, being devoid of moderating sea-air or sheltering hill- 
ranges. It is dry, owing to the rapid evaporation ; and the sky is usually clear and bright. 
The least rain falls in April. The Missouri often remains frozen all winter ; the Mississippi 
sometimes closes at St. Louis for many days. Some winters fail to reach zero ; others 
reach — 20°. The summer temperature averages 78.5° in the southeast, and 73° in the 
northwest. The annual temperature of most of the region north of the Missouri is 48° ; 
of the lagoon country in the southeast, 60° ; of the rest of the State, 56°. The summers 
are long and warm, the winters usually short and mild. 

Agriculture. — This State ranks third in the value of its farm products. The chief crops 



Sr. JOSEPH 



are corn (in 
20,000,000; 
is controlled 
1,800, 000 
verge of the 











KANSAS CITY : COURT HOUSE. 



the northwest) 219,000,000 bushels yearly ; oats, 36,000,000 ; wheat, 
and potatoes, 6,000,000. The Southwestern Elevator at Kansas City 
by F. H. Peavey & Co., of Minneapolis and elsewhere. More than 
tons of hay are produced, largely in the northwest ; and at the other 
State, on the great St. -Francis bottoms, 20,000 bales of cotton are 
raised yearly. Missouri holds the seventh rank in 
tobacco, with a crop of 13,000,000 pounds, mostly 
from the Missouri-River counties. Rye and barley, 
sorghum and hemp are also abundantly produced. 
Red and white clover, timothy, red top, and the 
rich blue-grass grow abundantly, and since 1885 
larger and larger areas have been devoted to grass- 
culture. Missouri is a capital fruit State, with the 
apple and pear, plum and cherry mingling with the 
fig and nectarine, apricots and the rarest grapes, delicious peaches of the Ozarks, the apples 
of the Platte Purchase, the Gasconade grapes, and the Jasper strawberries. In the produc- 
tion of red and white wines, Missouri stands second only to California. 

Missouri ranks as first among the States in the 
number of its mules, and second in cattle. The 
plebeian stock of the early days is being replaced 
by fine blooded animals, greatly increasing the 
value of the flocks and herds. The horses and 
mules number 950,000; and the cattle, 2,200,000. 
There are 1,300,000 sheep, mostly in the south, 
with its mild climate and fine grasses. Hogs num- 
ber 3,200,000. There are lucrative dairies in the 
north, which also has a large product of eggs. 

St. Louis still holds the primacy inthe American 
fur-trade, receiving $2,000,000 worth of peltries sr. louis7manual tbaimng school. 




THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



449 




JNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI. 



yearly. In the remote hills a few elk still 
linger, with deer, bears, wolves, cougars, and 
wild cats. Along the streams dwell the mink, 
the otter, and the beaver. The birds of Mis- 
souri are of great value, from wild turkeys 
and pigeons, grouse and quail, to ducks and 
wild geese, herons and cranes, and the melo- 
dious thrushes and mocking-birds. The riv- 
ers abound with catfish, buffalo fish, black 
bass, perch, pike, suckers and sunfish. 

Mining. — The Missouri iron-fields contain 
inexhaustible supplies of red and brown hematites, red oxides, specular iron, and clay iron- 
stone, excelling any other ores in quality. Iron Mountain is a low, irregular hill, covering 
500 acres, capped by a vein of hard specular ore, from six to 30 feet thick, and yielding 68 
per cent, of pure iron. Below occur great deposits of porphyry, filled with a network of 
small veins of ore, which is continually being exposed and freed by the crumbling of the 
rock. It is not a mountain of iron, as generally supposed. This field was opened in 1845, 
and now has an enormous output, having already yielded above 5,000,000 tons. It is 80 
miles south of St. Louis ; and in the same region rises the picturesque Pilot Knob, a huge 
mound of 600 feet high, containing a bed of bluish-gray iron-ore, from twelve to 30 feet 
thick, and yielding above 50 per cent, of strong, tough and fibrous 
iron. Shepherd Mountain has vast areas of uniform magnetic 
and specular ore, free from sulphur or phosphorus. Scotia Iron 
Banks and Iron Ridge are great beds of soft red herma- 
tites, containing masses of specular ore. The Missouri 
Iron Company runs the valuable mines in Crawford and 
Dent Counties. There are other iron deposits in various 
localities ; and the abundance of smelting coal and fluxes 
in Missouri gives great advantages to iron-workers. 
There are nearly a score of blast-furnaces in the State. 
Lead is found in great quantities, especially in the 
magnesian limestone, in the centxe, southeast and south- 
west. The long-drawn caverns of Washington County had millions of pounds adhering to 
their roofs and sides. Half the product of Missouri comes from Jasper and Newton Coun- 
ties, where lines of stacks extend for miles, and many furnaces are in active operation. 
Thousands of tons are shipped from Granby and Joplin, where the metal comes to the v€ty 
surface of the ground. The product has exceeded 90,000,000 pounds in a single year. 
Missouri is the foremost State in the production of zinc, yielding 12,500 tons yearly, from 
the mines in the far southwest, with great furnaces at Joplin and Carondelet, near St. Louis. 
Copper has been mined for many years, in carbonates and sulphurets, but the vast output of 

the Michigan region has closed the Missouri mines. 
There are several nickel-mines in the State. 

Bituminous and cannel coals underlie 26,000 
square miles of Missouri, being a continuation of 
the Iowa coal-measures through the north and 
across the Missouri River, and between the Grand 
and Osage Rivers. The chief mining region is in 
St. -Louis County, with seams one to seven feet 
thick, producing good smelting and engine coals. 
The Osage coal-pockets are anomalous masses of 
fine bituminous coal, 20 to 80 feet thick, in the 
ST. -LOUIS uNivERSiry and st.-xavier church, ravines along the Osage. Missouri produces 




ST. LOUIS : HIGH SCHOOL. 




45° 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LOUIS : MERCANTILE LIBRARY. 



2,600,000 tons of coal yearly. Sliehas also great quarries 
of brown, red and buff sandstone ; white, red and colored 
marble ; hydraulic lime and cement, slate and limestone, 
gypsum and grindstones. Fully 10,000,000 pounds of 
barytes are quarried yearly. The fire and potters' clays 
and kaolin employ many brickyards and potteries ; and 
the fine sand derived from its saccharoidal limestone has 
made this the second State in the production of plate- 
glass. Onyx is found in the Ozark Mountains. 

Government.- — The governor and six executive offi- 
cers are elected by the people, for four years. The legis- 
lature includes 34 four-year senators and 143 two-year representatives. The Judiciary 
includes the Supreme Court, vi^ith five justices; the St. -Louis and Kansas-City Courts of 
Appeal ; 30 circuit courts ; and ten municipal courts. The State Capitol at Jefferson City 
was built in 1838-40, of Missouri stone, at a cost of $350,000. New wings were added in 
1887-88. The great leader in the foundation of Missouri, and one of her first and ablest 
senators and editors, was Thomas Hart Benton (born in North Carolina in 1782, and died 
at Washington in 1858), the advocate of favorable land-laws, and the overland traffic routes. 
The National Guard of Missouri consists of two regiments, the First Infantry, of St. 
Louis, the Third Infantry, of Kansas City, 14 unattached 
infantry companies, a battalion of cadets, two light bat- 
teries, and a troop of cavalry. The Penitentiary, at 
Jefferson City, has over 1,600 inmates, most of whom 
are kept at work by contractors. The Reform School 
for Boys is at Boonville ; the Industrial School for Girls 
is at Chillicothe. The latter is on the cottage plan, 
with 50 in each family. The State Asylums for the 
insane are at Fulton, St. Joseph, and Nevada, and con- 
tain 1,200 patients. The School for the Blind, at St. 
Louis, accommodates nearly 90. The institution for 
the Education of the Deaf and Dumb at Fulton has 300 inmates under its instruction. 

Jefferson Barracks, just below St. Louis, is one of the most important recruiting stations 
of the United-States army. The great National Cemetery near the Barracks contains the 
graves of 11,637 soldiers. There are similar cemeteries at Jefferson City r8i2 graves) and 
Springfield (1,614). 

* Education is maintained by school funds of !|!i 1,000,000, school-property valued at 
$9,000,000, and a yearly outlay of $5,000,000. Every district must have free schools for 
white and colored pupils, with graded and high schools in the cities. The State Normal 
Schools are at Kirksville, Warrensburg, Cape Girardeau, and Jefferson City (the latter 
being for colored pupils), and have 1,800 students. 

The University of the State of Missouri, at Columbia, was opened in 1840, and has 
27 professors and 620 p students, partly women. The law school has 60 students, and 
the medical school, 20. ^ The University's School of Mines and Metallurgy is at 

Rolla. The 
University has 
connected with 
it the land- 
grant Agricul- 
tural College, 
with a veteri- 
_ nary labora- 

ST. LOUIS : THE FAIR GR0UND8. tory, horticuj" 




ST. LOUIS : MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS. 




THE STATE OE MISSOURI. 



451 




ST. LOUIS : EXPOSITION BUILDING. 



tural gardens, and a productive farm. St. -Louis University is an important Jesuit institution, 
dating from 1829, and with 34 instructors and 228 students, besides 207 in the commercial 
and preparatory schools. In 1888 the institution moved from its old home, in the heart of the 
city, to a line of ^^^ new buildings in early decorated English Gothic architecture, 
on Grand Avenue. The College of Christian Brothers is at St. 
Louis ; and St. Vincent's College is at Cape Girardeau. 

Washington University is at St. Louis, the metropolis 
of the Mississippi Valley. It was incorporated in the 
year 1853, for a first-class educational institution of the 
highest rank, modelled after the great Eastern universities, 
and hoping in time to become the Harvard of the West. 
It was inaugurated in 1857, the oration being delivered by 
Edward Everett. The college was organized in 1859, and graduated its first class in 1862. 
There are IIO students in the college and the Polytechnic School (organized in 1870). 
The Law School dates from 1867, and has 80 students in a finely organized two years' 
course. This department has 400 graduates. The St. -Louis School of Fine Arts is a 
department of Washington University. It was founded in 1879, and has above 300 
iitudents in drawing, painting, modelling, wood-carving and the connected arts, with lec- 
tures, evening classes, and large collections of paintings and casts. The Henry Shaw 
School of Botany dates from 1885, and stands in close affiliation with the largely endowed 
Missouri Botanical Garden and Arboretum. Three other schools have been organized and 
are now working under the charter of Washington University. Smith Academy was 
founded in 1853, as a fitting-school for college, and has 320 male students. Mary Institute 
dates from 1859, and has about 400 girl students, with fine buildings and equipments. 
The Manual Training 
School is the most jcPi 
original and unique 
feature of Washing- 
ton University, and 
was the prototype and 
model of nearly all 

the others now at work in America. It is practically a high school 
whose pupils are taught for nine hours a week in carpentry anc 
joinery, wood-turning and carving, pattern making, iron chippini; 
and filing, forge work, brazing and soldering, and many other branches of bench and 
machine work in metals, together with free-hand, technical and mechanical drawing. The 
aim of Prof. C. M. Woodward, the founder and director of the school, is to combine "the 
^_ ..^ ^ ^li^^y^ ,_::,, ,^-^^. cultured mind, the skilful hand." 

^'^"'' *^^-* - '^ Drury College is a Congregational 

institution, at Springfield, with 165 
students and a library of 20,000 
volumes. Westminster College (Pres- 
byterian) is at Fulton. The north- 
eastern part of Missouri contains the 
Christian University, at Canton, and La-Grange College 
(Baptist), at La Grange, on the Mississippi. The Bap- 
tists also have William-Jewell College, at Liberty, and 
Grand-River College, at Edinburg ; and one at Bolivar, 
on the southwest. The Methodists have colleges at 
Warrenton, Glasgow, Fayette, and Morrisville. There are 40 other small 
colleges, and 50 academies and seminaries. Concordia College, the Lutheran theological 
seminary at St. Louis, has a handsome new Gothic building ; and there are Evangelical 





KANSAS city: 

bridge under 
construction. 



452 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



f*' 



111' 



■^tiui 

ttuf 






ST. LOUIS : 

ST. -LOUIS GLOBE-DEMOCRAT. 



Methodist, and Catholic divinity schools, with 700 students. 
The chief libraries are the Public (60,000 volumes), Mercan- 
tile (65,000), Law (15,000), St. -Louis University (25,000), 
and Academy of Science (10,000), at St. Louis; the State 
Library (18,000), at Jefferson City; the Kansas-City Public 
Library (12,000) ; and the State University (13,000). 

The Newspapers of Missouri number 756, or a greater 
number than Massachusetts or California has. In this regard 
Missouri is the seventh State. The St. -Louis Globe- Deviocrat 
.is the leading newspaper of the Mississippi Valley, enjoying 
a circulation unequalled by any other daily paper published 
west of the Alleghany Mountains. Its principal field is Mis- 
souri, Illinois, Kansas, Arkansas, Texas, and Colorado, with 
an extensive circulation in all the Western and Southwestern 
States ; and even on the Pacific Slope it may be found for sale 
at all newsdealers. It is par excellence a gigantic news-journal, and pays more money for 
telegraphic reports and correspondence than any newspaper in the United States, as the 
statistics of the telegraph companies show. The Missouri Deinocrat, founded 
in 1852, and The Globe, started in 1872, were consolidated under the name 
of the Globe- Democrat in 1875. Since then it has largely increased in cir- 
culation and influence throughout the West, Northwest and South- 
west. The main proprietors since 1875 have been the late William 
McKee, and the present president, Daniel M. Houser ; both of 
whose names rank among the preeminently successful newspaper- 
men of this country. Joseph B. McCuUagh, for many years the 
managing editor, ranks as the peer of any editor of his time. The 
company erected for its occupancy, in the fall of 1891, a superb 
eight-story stone building, which is among the finest newspaper 
structures in the country, in every way adapted to its business, and 
furnished with the latest machinery in the way of lighting, heating, 
and elevators. Enormous lightning-speed presses of the latest pat- 
terns are used, as also the new type-setting machines. 

The metropolis of western Missouri has its own morning and 
evening newspaper in the Kansas-City Times, whose issues also go 
throughout Missouri, Kansas, and the Indian Territory. This widely-known journal began 
its career in 1S68, and three years later it came under the management of Dr. Morrison 
Munford, who still owns more than three fourths of its stock. Under his strong and ener- 
getic administration, the Kansas-City Times has been repeatedly enlarged and newly 
dressed, and has risen from a local paper of small circulation to a commanding position in 
the West and Southwest ; in fact, one of the notable dailies of the United States, with an 
immense and profitable circulation and advertising patronage. It advocates the interests 
of the West, in season and out of season, and with conspicuous editorial ability. The 
Kansas-City convention of 1888, whose delegates at Washington did so much to secure the 

opening of Oklahoma for white men, was called by 
the Times, which has always been an earnest advo- 
cate of settling the Indian Territory as an American 
State. The Times occupies its own building, built 
for its own use, at the "Junction" of three main 
thoroughfares. In its own important locality it is 
the foremost daily newspaper. 

Chief Cities. — St. Louis is admirably situated 
on the Mississippi not far from the inflowing of the 




KANSAS CITY : 
KANSAS CITY "TIMES. 







6T. LOUIS : AMERICAN BISCUIT & MFG. CO. 



THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



453 



Missouri and the Illinois, and hence occupies a remarkable strategic position with regard 
to the great rivers of the continent. It covers 40,000 acres, with a river front of 19 miles, 
and rises in some localities 200 feet above the Mississippi. The 22 railways converging at 
St. Louis, and her immense river-navigation, have given her control of the trade of the 
Mississippi Valley and the Southwest. St. Louis is also one of the foremost cotton-centres, 
the receipts reaching 600,000 bales a year. 

The clearing-house business exceeds $1,000,000,000 yearly ; 15,000,000 tons of freight 
are received and forwarded yearly ; 2,000,000 barrels of flour are made yearly in the city 
mills; 315,000,000 pounds of hog-products are exported; 21,000,000 pounds of wool, 
and 2,000,000 head of live-stock are received. The tugs can each tow 10,000 tons of 
freight (or enough to fill 13 freight trains of 40 cars each) from St. Louis to New Orleans 
(1,241 miles) in seven days, which is about the time of an ordinary freight-train. In 1889 
428,000 tons of bulk grain and 78,000 tons of other freight were sent to New Orleans in 
this way. Each year 940 steamboats leave St. Louis for the Lower Mississippi, 800 for 
the Upper Mississippi, 175 for the Missouri, 125 for the Illinois, 150 for the Cumberland 
and Tennessee. There are 2,000 men making 100,000 stoves and ranges yearly. St. Louis 
has 30 shoe factories, making nearly $7,000,000 worth of goods. In the vicinity of the 
city are the beautiful Tower-Grove and Forest Parks (276 and 1,370 acres), embellished 
with statues and fountains. The Missouri Botanical (Shaw's) Garden is rich in flowers, 
native and exotic. 

The St. -Louis Bridge, crossing the Mississippi, was designed by James B. Eads, and 
built in 1869-73, at a cost of $10,000,000 (including the tunnel). It is one of the noblest 
triumphs of American engineering skill, and includes four ribbed-steel arches, resting on 
immense stone piers, the rise of the arches being 60 feet, to allow steamboats to pass under- 
neath. The central span is 520 feet, and the side spans 500 feet each. The upper story 
has carriage and foot-ways ; the lower story, a double-track railway. The steel-work on 
this vast structure was furnished by the Keystone Bridge Co., of Pittsburgh, which also built 
the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. -Paul Railroad Bridge near Kansas City. The Merchants' 
Bridge was built across the Mississippi in 1889-90, at a cost of $6,000,000. It is i\ miles 
north of the Eads Bridge and 2,420 feet long. 

One of the finest office structures of St. Louis is the Houser Building, on the corner of 
Broadway and Chestnut Street. It is seven stories high, with walls of stone and brick, 
floor-beams of steel, and floors and partitions of tiles, thus 
making an edifice proof against any danger of fire. The in- 
terior finish is of Wisconsin red oak, with marble-paved halls, 
heavy bronze hardware, and abundant light on all sides. Hy- 
draulic elevators give easy access to the offices, with cars of 
wrought iron work. This handsome structure was erected in 
1889-90 by Daniel M. Houser, senior proprietor of the St. 
Louis Globe-Democrat. 

Kansas City at first was the muddy little river-landing 
for Westport, and grovelled under its clay bluff's, frequenteil 
mainly by border raiders. In 1865 it had only about 3,500 in- 
habitants, but the advent of the Missouri Pacific Railway and 
the grand western march of the American people, tenfolded 
its population during the next five years, and it now claims to 
be the gateway of Kansas, with its level lands crowded with tracks and cars and the largest 
meat-packing houses in the world. The municipality of Kansas City, Kansas, the largest 
place in the Sunflower State, is separated from Kansas City, Missouri, only by an unseen 
political boundary line, passing down the middle of one of the streets. In 1890, these con- 
tiguous twin-cities had a united population of over 170,000 persons, making up the largest 
community between St. Louis and San Francisco, and full of hopeful and abounding life. 




THE HOUSER BUILDING. 



454 



KmC'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




KANSAS CITY : MIDLAND HOTEL. 



The foremost home for travellers in Kansas City is the famous Midland Hotel, opened 
in 1S89, and one of the best hotels in this country. It covers an entire block, in the most 
central part of the city, near the post-office, stores and theatres. The walls are of pressed 

brick and terra-cotta ; the floors and partitions of hollow 
terra-cotta blocks ; the interior finish, of English oak and 
white marble ; and the main stairway, of marble and iron. 
The building is fire-proof, heated by steam, liglited by 
hundreds of electric lights, ventilated by exhaust ventilators, 
and traversed by four swift hydraulic elevators, and liberally 
eniiched with cathedral glass, Honduras mahogany, Mexi- 
can onyx, Reed & Barton silverware, Wilton carpets, 
French-plate glass, Egyptian red marbles, oaken wains- 
coting and other artistic beauties. On the ground floor is 
a great exchange, or central court, running from street to 
street, and giving entrance to a variety of convenient stores. 
Among the notable departments are the billiard-room, loo 
by 45 feet, with Persian rugs on its marble floor, Lincrusta-Walton on the walls, and oaken 
beams overhead ; the bar-room, whose crystal and silver are flashed back by huge French- 
plate mirrors, over the long bar of red Egyptian marble ; the Elizabethan writing-room, 
with high English oak wainscots and huge fire-place ; the baths, 
Turkish, Russian, electric, sulphur, or any other kind, with a 
marble-cased swimming-pool 30 by 60 feet in area ; the bridal 
suite, hung with primrose and blue China silk, and made bril- 
liant by golden cobwebs ; and the grand dining-room, on the 
seventh story, and overlooking the city and the Missouri River. 
The Midland is owned by the Midland Hotel Company. It is 
in keeping with the many grand public and private structures 
of Kansas City, and is admirably conducted. 

St. Joseph, on the Missouri, in the northwestern part of 
the State, has stock-yards covering 440 acres, a jobbing trade 
of $150,000,000 a year, and large factories. Hannibal is an 
important Mississippi-River port and railway-centre, with large equitable 
shipping and manufacturing interests. Sedalia is one of the ^^^^^ Missouri pacific railroad. 
large central cities, a nest of factories and convergence of railways, surrounded by rich farm- 
ing lands. Springfield, far to the south, is like Sedalia. Jeffer- 
son City has an agreeable situation on the Missouri, near the 
centre of the State. Among the other Missouri cities are Bonne 
Terre, among the southeastern lead-mines ; Boonville, sur- 
rounded by vineyards and mines, on the Missouri ; Carthage, 
the metropolis of the southwest; Chillicothe, the trade-centre 
of the Grand-River country ; Fulton, the chief town of one of 
the rich central stock-raising counties ; Joplin, a busy mining 
town in the Ozarks ; Moberly, with great railroad shops ; and 
St. Charles, with coal-mines and car-works. 

Finances. — The bonded debt has dropped from fiiy,- 
000,000 in 1880 to less than $9,000,000 in 1890, showing a 
highly favorable condition of financial management in the 
councils of the State. 

The National Bank of Commerce in St. Louis was organized 
in 1857 as a State bank, and reorganized in 1889 as a National Bank. During the 33 years of 
its existence as a State Bank, it paid an average of 1 1 per cent, cash dividends to its stock- 
holders; and in the reorganization paid them also $400 for each $100 of capital paid in. 




building, general 




KANSAS CITY : 
NEW ENGLAND MUTUAL LIFE- 
INSURANCE CO. 




ST. LOUIS . 
NATIONAL BANK OF COMMERCE. 



THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 

This capital is now $3,000,000, with undivided profits and surplus 
amounting to $500,000. The loans and discounts exceed $8,000,- 
000, and the deposits exceed $10,000,000. The National Bank 
of Commerce has the largest financial business in the Southwest, 
and its operations cover many of the fast-growing States in that 
rich and promising region. There is but one bank west of New 
York (the First National, of Chicago), which carries so extensive 
a business, or has such a large line of loans and discounts. W. H. 
Thompson, the President, and J. C. Van Blarcom, the Cashier, 
are recognized as among the ablest and most conservative finan- 
ciers of the West, and the institution which they have created 
ranks among the powerful developing forces of the State of Mis- 
souri and the neighboring commonwealths. 

Kansas City is the financial capital of a large region, and its 
foremost monetary institution is the National Bank of Commerce, 
which, with the exception of the bank of the same name in St. 
Louis, is the largest financial institution in the State of Missouri. 
When Kansas City was a little river-town of 5,000 people, in 1865, 
the Kansas-City Savings- Association came into existence, under careful but enterprising con- 
trol as a commercial bank (and not specially for savings). Its capital 
gradually rose to $50,000, and in 1882 was increased to $200,000, 
when the name also underwent a change, and the Bank of Commerce 
came into being. For the next five years this institution paid its 
stockholders 6 per cent, semi-annual dividends, and then gave them 
$3,000 for every $1,000 of original investment. In 1S87 this pros- 
perous corporation was succeeded by the National Bank of Commerce, 
with $2,000,000 capital, on which it easily earns its 10 percent, yearly 
dividends, besides accumulating a surplus. The President, W. S. 
W^oods, and the Cashier, C. J. White, occupied the same positions in 
the Kansas-City Savings-Association and the succeeding banks. The 
deposits in the National Bank of Commerce average $6,000,000. It 
lias one of the largest clientages of country-banks in the Union, and 
thus enjoys unusual facilities for collections. The bank occupies a 
handsome building, of attractive and appropriate architecture. 

One of the foremost insurance corporations in the West is the 
American Central Insurance Company, which has grown to its com- 
manding proportions under the able executive administration of George T. Cram, to whom 
its marked success may be fairly credited. It was founded at St. Louis, in 1853, and since 
that date has paid more than $6,000,000 in losses. The cash 
capital is $600,000, with a net surplus of nearly $400,000. 
The stock is largely held by leading business men of St. Louis, 
and the assets of $1,500,000 are in the best of United-States 
and Missouri stocks and bonds and real estate. The system 
of agencies connected with the American Central covers nearly 
all the States and Territories, and is managed with only that 
enterprise which goes with conservatism. At the great fire in 
Chicago, this company lost over $300,000, and although this 
sum exceeded its total assets, every cent was paid in full. The 
American Central building is one of the architectural orna- 
ments of St. Louis, and covers one of the most valuable sites. 
Various Eastern companies have built up large constituen- 
cies in Missouri, whose cities are adorned with their imposing American central insurance co. 




KANSAS city : 

national bank of 
commerce. 





456 KING'S HANDBOOK OF rilE UNITED STATES. 

and magnificent edifices. Among these are the buildings owned and in part occupied liy 
the New-York Life-Insurance Company, at Kansas City ; the Equitable Life-Assurance So- 
ciety, of New York, at St. Louis ; and the New-England Mutual Life- 
insurance Company, of Boston, at Kansas City. 

Railways. — In 1849 there was not a mile of track west of the 
Mississippi River. Now there are over 60,000 miles in that iden- 
tical region. The Pacific Railroad Company was incorporated in 
1849, ^"'l began construction at St. Louis, in 1852, and in the same 
year, the first locomotive (the "Pacific") west of the Mississippi 
was placed on its rails. The line reached Kirkwood in 1853, Wash- 
ington in 1855, Jefferson City in 1856, Tipton in 1858, Sedalia in 
1861, and Kansas City in 1865. In 1876 the company was re- 
organized under the name of the Missouri Pacific Railway ; and in jj 

1880 Jay Gould and his associates assumed control. Since that ^ , ^^^~ - - ^,. , ■^, _.^;>[ 

time the company has entered upon a magnificent and far-reach- kansas cty ; 

ing system of southern extension, covering large parts of Missouri new-york life insurance co. 
and Kansas, reaching the chief cities of Colorado, the wheat-fields of Nebraska, the sugar- 
plantations of Louisiana, the cotton-fields of Texas, and the choicest parts of the Indian 
Territory. By securing control of the St. -Louis, Iron-Mountain & Southern Railway, the 
Missouri Pacific commands nearly all the traffic of Arkansas, and has the best of connec- 
tions for New Mexico, Arizona and southern California, and for Mexico. The lines owned 
or leased by the Missouri Pacific Railway Company, are run with scientific precision and 
modern comfort. 

Manufactures. — St. Louis is the fourth manufacturing city in America. Missouri's 

900 Hour-mills produce over 2,000,000 barrels 
of flour a year. The Dozier establishment, 
at St. Louis (now connected with the Ameri- 
can Biscuit and Manufacturing Co.) is the 
largest cracker factory in the world, and 
can make 1,400 barrels of flour into crackers 
daily. The American Biscuit Co. also con- 
trols the large works at Kansas City, founded 
Ijy J. L. Loose. 

One of the most notable meat-packing 
houses in the world is that of the Armour 
Packing Company, whose works cover 14 
acres in Kansas City, and furnish employ- 
Here stand the great 




^Jtsr= 



KANSAS CITV ; 
AMERICAN BISCUIT AND MANUFACTURING CO. 

ment for 2,300 men, with a yearly pay-roll exceeding $1,100,000. 
buildings where 150,000 tons of meat may be kept in cold storage, chilled by the product 
of a dozen ice-machines, and an equal amount may be prepared for immediate use. The 
daily capacity of these works is 8,000 hogs,- 1,000 cattle and 500 .sheep. These great herds 
are speedily and neatly converted into dressed meats, hams and bacon, lard and oils, and a 
great variety of delicate and enriching canned goods, among them the world-renowned 
"Luncheon Beef. " The Ar- 
mour Packing Company was 
founded in 1 870, and there 
is now no region that has 
not heard its name, in con- 
nection with the best of pro- 
visions, prepared here in thf 
very centre of the great west- 
ern cattle-raising industry. 




KANSAS CITY \ ARMOUR PACKING COMPANY. 



THE STATE OE MISSOURI. 



457 




i>T. LOUIS : BEMIS 8R0- BAG COMPANY. 



The recognized leaders in their particular line in the United States are the Bemis Bro. 
Bag Company, who commenced business in 1858, and moved to their present quarters, at 
Fourth and Poplar Streets, a few years since. This 
company has branches in Boston, Omaha and Min- 
neapolis, and manufactures all descriptions of bag*;, 
which find their final destinations in many portions 
of the United States, as well as distant parts of the 
world. In 1S85 the company was incorporated, 
with its present style. It has a paid-up capital of 
$750,000, and is practically a close corporation, 
with increasing business as the years go by. J. M. 
Bemis is president of the company ; and Stephen 
A. Bemis is the secretary and treasurer. 

The beers of St. Louis have an international 
reputation, and indeed are highly prized across the water. Much of this reputation is 
due to two men, Eberhard Anheuser and Adolphus Busch, of the Anheuser-Busch Brew- 
ing Association. The business of this concern is enormous. Their buildings and yards 
cover an area of 80 acres. These are not common buildings, but immense and archi- 
tecturally impressive structures that amaze every visitor. They have been erected with ex- 
ceptional taste and rare solidity. More than 2,000 people are constantly employed. The 
premises are connected by railway tracks with the great railway systems of the country. The 
company owns and controls its own refrigerator cars, which number 800, a railway plant in 
itself, and the annual shipments exceed 14,000 car-loads. The beer is shipped both 

bottled and in bulk. The refrigerator- 
cars carry a sufficient quantity of ice to 
preserve the proper temperature of the 
beer in bulk, and at various points 
throughout the country the company has 
its own storage ice-houses controlled by 
resident agents. The bottling depart- 
ment is the largest in the world and sells 
40,000,000 bottles yearly. The brew- 
ing capacity of the works is 1,000,000 
barrels or 4,000,000 kegs annually. The 
company, in addition to its immense trade at home, has a large export trade with Mexico, 
the West Indies, Central America, Brazil, and the Sandwnch Islands, and large supplies go even 
to Australia, China, Turkey and Egypt. This is not merely "America's largest and most 
popular l>rewer\-," but is also the greatest in the world. 

The American Wine Company of St. Louis, makers of the delicious "Cook's Imperial 
Champagne," has demonstrated that this country can compete successfully -with the Old 
World in the production of pure, sparkling wines, and that we have already learned the art 
of the proper cultivation of the grape for wine-making purposes. The wines of ancient 
Greece were praised by Anacreon, and so has 
George Augustus Sala made known the glorious 
qualities of American wines. One of the pre- 
eminent leaders in this industry was Isaac 
Cook, who, in 1859, undertook to produce 
wines equal to those made anywhere in the 
world. His success has been recognized by 
awards at all of the great international exposi- 
tions of the last quarter of a century ; not only 
at the Ceutennial Exposition in the United st. uouis : American wine co. 





KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



-,-. .^' 






{\mm 






-' ,Jlt 

ST. LOUIS : ODD-FELLOWS' HALL. 



States, but also at the expositions in the wine-producing countries 
of Europe. Nicholas Longworth of Cincinnati was probably the 
first successful producer of sparkling Catawba, when he brought 
out the "Golden Wedding." Among his contemporaries was 
the Missouri Wine Company, mainly owned by Gerard B. Allen 
and Wm. Glasgow of St. Louis. After Mr. Cook had made a suc- 
cess of his business, he purchased the plant of the Missouri Wine 
Company, which is now the main vaults and headquarters of the 
American Company, of which his son, Douglas G. Cook, is the 
active president. No kindred house has attained the same success 
as this American Wine Company, whose two brands, "Cook's Im- 
perial " and "Cook's Imperial Extra Dry," are to be found on the 
lists of every first-class hotel and in the hands of every first-class 
dealer throughout America. Besides the vaults in St. Louis, the com- 
pany has large plants, consisting of press houses, wine cellars, etc., 
at Sandusky, Ohio, the grapes themselves being grown in Ohio. These wines are strictly 
pure Catawba, produced by a natural process, the result of which makes them of absolute purity. 
St. Louis was always a "tobacco town" of more or less importance, but for the past 
several years it has been, and is now, the greatest in the world, and Liggett & Myers Tobacco 

Company of that city are the largest manufacturers of 

tobacco on earth. In 1878 St. Louis produced about 

6,000,000 pounds of tobacco, of which this company made 

less than one third, while in 1890 52,452,852 pounds were 

produced, of which Liggett & Myers Tobacco Company 

sold 27,418,266 pounds, all plug chewing-tobacco. Liggett 

& Myers Tobacco Company's output for 1890 was the 

greatest ever made in one year in the history of tobacco by 

any manufacturer, and exceeded in number of pounds the 

combined sales of plug tobacco for that year of the two 

next largest factories in the United States. This company 

during 1890 employed an average of about 1,800 persons, 

and its pay-roll for that year amounted to almost $1,000,- 

000. For manufacturing purposes the company occupies 

two immense seven-story brick buildings, also a brick building six stories in height, used 

for a leaf-stemmery, and a warehouse covering half a block of ground. It also owns and 

conducts the St. -Louis Box Company, the most completely equipped tobacco-box factory 

in the world. Liggett & Myers Tobacco Company is the outgrowth of and represents the 

first tobacco-manufacturing concern established west of the Mississippi. Of its several 

brands the "Star " is the most popular with consumers, and its great success is due to its being 

at all times made of the best leaf and the purest and most wholesome flavoring materials, and 

by an improved and superior manufacturing process devised by the company. 

Among its endowments of preeminence in Christendom, St. Louis holds its Meyer 

Brothers Drug Company, as the largest drug estab- 
lishment in the world. Christian E. G. Meyer, the 
President of this corporation, and John F. W. 
Meyer, his brother, bought out Wall & Meyer, of 
Fort Wayne (Ind. ), in 1852, and founded the house 
of Meyer & Brother, which established a St. -Louis 
branch in 1865. The outgrowth of this beginning 
is the most extensive wholesale drug business in the 
I uited States, with the largest capital (.f 1,750,000), 
ST. LOUIS : LIGGETT & MYERS TOBACCO COMPANY, aud the krgcst and best-equipped offices and build- 




ST. LOUIS : LIGGETT & MYERS TOBACCO CO. 




THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



459 




ings anywhere to be found devoted to this trade. Their 
branches are at Kansas City (Mo.), Dallas (Tex.), and 
Fort Wayne (Ind.), with a house at New York, for buy- 
ing, importing and exporting. There are 650 employes. 
The St. -Louis headquarters is a handsome five-story 
building, of brick and cut stone, with 170,000 square feet 
of floor-space, crowded with herbs, roots, leaves, seeds, 
flowers, bark, oils and liquors, crude chemicals and 
minerals, and all manner of medicinal substances, for the 
ST. LOUIS : MEYER BROTHERS DRUG COMPANY, healing of thc nations. The house has a large export- 
trade to Mexico and the West Indies, and Central and South America. Meyer Brothers 
Drug Company was incorporated in 1889. The business is mainly jobbing, although they 
manufacture perfumery and toilet articles, and chemical and pharmaceutical preparations. 

The United States has half a dozen or more enormous dry-goods emporiums of the 
first class, like those of John Wanamaker, of Philadelphia ; Marshall Field & Company, of 
Chicago ; and Jordan, Marsh & Company, of Boston ; and closely following these comes 
BuUene, Moore, Emery & Company, of Kansas City. The last-named house, founded in 
1867, and with its buyers in Paris, London,. Vienna, and other great cities, acknowledges 
but one rival in the whole Western country, and holds an easy supremacy in all the 
vast empire from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean. The house in 1889-90 erected 
for its own use one of the finest retail stores in the 
Union, occupying seven airy stories, finished in hard- 
wood, with 200,000 square feet of floor-space, lighted 
on three sides, and with hundreds of electric lights 
after sunset. The building has 408 windows, 4S5 
columns, and eight elevators. There are three miles 
of brass pneumatic tubes, leading from 35 stations 
to a central cashier's desk, to which they whi--' 
brass cups containing money to be changed. Tl 
stock reaches $1,000,000, and includes table and 
kitchen ware, bedding and underwear, bric-a-brac 
and notions, lamps and clocks, pictures and ceramics, 
millinery and dress-goods, art-work and embroideries, 
gloves and shoes, furs and sealskins, carpets and curtains, and myriads of other articles. 

The business of supplying shoes for several million people in the South and West and 
Southwest has caused the establishment of many large shoe manufactories and selling- 
houses in St. Louis. Chief among these stands the Hamilton-Brown Shoe Company, whose 
St. -Louis "own make " glazed Dongola shoes for ladies and calf shoes for men are handled 
by over 5,000 retailers, covering a vast area of American territory. J. M. Hamilton and 
A. D. Brown in 1871 founded this business, which was incorporated in 1884, and now has 
a capital of $750,000, and employs 900 persons. In 1883 the house began the manufacture 
of fine shoes for ladies and children, and now it has one of the best and largest factories in 
the West, with two acres of floor-space, and a large electric-light 
The wholesale establishment occupies one of the finest mer- 
cantile buildings of St. Louis, and is one of the 
best buildings devoted to the trade anywhere. 
The chief aim of the Hamilton-Brown Com- 
pany has been to secure the highest quality of 
shoes. The house now sells upward of $3, - 
500,000 worth of goods every year, and ranks 
equal in business to any firm of its line in 

ST. LOUIS ; HAMILTON-BROWN SHOE COMPANY. thC WhOle COUUtry. 




KANSAS CITY : BULLENE, MOORE, EMERY i CO. 




460 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LOUIS : SHULTZ BELTING COMPANY. 



The important problem of the transmission of 
power has received one satisfactory solution in the 
world-famous Shultz leather-belting, whose manu- 
facture was started at St. Louis, in 1877, by J. A. 
J. Shultz. The peculiarity of this article is that 
the leather is tanned on the surface only, leaving 
the interior fibre raw-hide, which is softened and 
made pliable by a patent process. This kid-like 
softness causes it to adhere to the pulleys, and 
combines with its great strength and pliability to 
make a wonderful driving power, with no lost 
motion. It is of a selected stock, carefully put 
together and thoroughly stretched, so that it can endure hard service and great strain, and 
outwear ordinary belting. These belts are especially adapted for electric-light machinery, 
and one of them, in the East-River Company's plant, at New York, is 123 feet long and 58 
inches wide, transmitting 1,000 horse-power. The works employ 100 men. The company 
has a branch store at Boston. Among other ingenious Shultz products are the leather- 
woven link-belts, the links made entirely of leather, of uniform size and concave shape, and 
held together by raw-hide rods, which are remarkably tough and flexible, and of light 
weight, and at the same time secure the links as safely as iron or steel rods. These belts 
are made nowhere else in the world. The Shultz Belting 
Company of St. Louis are the sole manufacturers under 
the Shultz patents. 

When we recall the ancient and wealthy civilizations of 
London, Paris and Vieruia, and even the comparative 
age of New York and Boston, it is amazing to learn that, 
with a single exception, the largest jewelry storeroom in the 
world, devoted to the sale of precious stones, jewelry, sil- 
verware, bric-a-brac and art goods is found on the border 
of the mighty Mississippi, in the great city of St. Louis. 
Yet this is the rank occupied by the Mermod & Jaccard 
Jewelry Company, of St. Louis, whose great five-story 
building covers broad areas on Broadway and Locust 
Streets, employing 160 persons, and exhibiting all classes 
of goods usually kept in an establishment of this kind. 
The stock really forms a grand exhibition ; comprising a great variety of watches, diamonds, 
pearls, rubies, and other gems, gold jewelry, silver, silver-plated ware, clocks, bronzes, 
pottery, and other precious and beautiful articles. Incidental are several departments, sta- 
tionery, watch-making and repairing, special jewelry to order, engraving, etc. A. S. Mermod 
came to St. Louis in 1845, ^"d D. C. Jaccard in 1848, when they at once entered into the 
jewelry business; later associating themselves as D. C. Jaccard & Company. The style 
ward changed to Mermod, Jaccard & Company, C. F. Mathey entering 
in 1864; and Goodman King becoming a partner in 1868. In 1883 the 
business became a corporation, under the title of the Mermod 
& Jaccard Jewelry Company, which now has a paid-up capital 
of $500,000, and a large accumulated surplus. In 1888 the 
new building on Broadway was occupied. The house controls 
several special manufactures, and imports direct almost the 
whole of its foreign goods. Not only are its customers found 
in the West and South, but throughout the East and North and 
Canada and Mexico, and foreigners make selections from the 
KANSAS CITY ; BOARD OF TRADE, stock, which has been gathered from many lands. 





fe.^ 


gaBJfliiwiiilWn 


^^ 


^^m 


^^^^ 



ST. LOUIS : 
MERMOD & JACCARD JEWELRY COMPANY. 




For ALASKA see page 466 



ALABAMA. 461 



C 0„..^.ch 80^ 




^^ E X I c O 

—^ 11° L„tiiuj. B r. 



ALABAMA 

Showing ALL Railroads, Cities, Towns 

AND Principal Villages. 

Drawn, Engraved anc Printed 

at theih complete art-printing works in buffalo. 

SCALE OF STATUTE MILES. " 

,0 20 30 40 60 60 70 80 _90 tOO 



462 ARIZONA 



For ALASKA see page 465 




ARKANSAS 463 




464 CALIFORNIA, ALASKA and NEVADA. 




CALIFORNIA, ALASKA and NEVADA. 46^ 




COLORADO. 




CONNECTICUT. 




468 DELAWARE, DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA and MARYLAND. 




FLORIDA 




470 GEORGIA 



D o.„„„va 82° 



THE MATTHEWS-NORTHRUP 
KANDY MlAP OF 

GEORGIA 

Showing ALL Railroads, Cities, Towns 
AND Principal Villages. 
N, Engraved and Printed 

EIR COMPLETE ART-PRINTING WORKS IN BUFFALO. 




IDAHO 471 



"-■' Du„o,„i,niw,.,Z A„„ 113° Ffl 



jBR J T,IJS H I C O L U\M|B I Aj 



THE MATTHEWS-NORTH RUP 
HANDY MAP OF 

IDAHO 

Showing ALL Railroads, Cities, Towns 
AND Principal Villages. 

Drawn, Engraved and Printed 
THEIR Complete art-Printing works in Buffalo. 




tind. Res. \ r«i »'/S>''>\S4-« 1 1 



()^V^*- .'i?^ 7V, Ihiuc UreckU ^5 ''"""P ^ ?,'"'"'o %")„., I p'.Johns o.f,rd/b tlik^'^'*- ^'J! p, 



Itockland o 
Sttblett 



7 



Conant oralalta 



l^ E Ind.Hes'N A 






A « 



fLofsilude e W, 



i.l„A£ 1P„, 350/r.™ plVa,*,,,,,,,,.. 



472 ILLINOIS 







Vlwllarpe 



Blatiflinyvilie 



.Cartt asy^'ColcLesteiV-e'viaton 




• PAvonV '■ . . 
/PrairieXCity Fi Pek 
fBushneVI^?r~7„ ,. 5- , 









^shlaiVl 






t rw!e 



■ " "'Pittsfleld\c \ /^Waverlj 

- ^___ Roodhouse /' 
Jowling: GreciKy ['>§>^ill / Hall|."c7>s., 
" illloiACarl 



inhulK* c/4toi/in:tor Xjl I/UiepWoaklaniffi^ ^ ( PatfS 

|l\,utn '^ y^. ^./ I Sullh ^'■" 



v^^'tpV 



XP 



jij.eyvilleiTTV'A 



vChap); 



RTy.'? 



-Tbi-I^''"^ 



lAU^hi 




v£ffingha 



lithll 



" St.Cha 



^<|Tviii,.»«'\ 
Vanda|lia\/E/g„<,-a' '^/a/!?^ 



inimundyL/,. Vki,„uisvnie I '^"'''■'^r,^ 



Padfi? 
t-s- 



. JfflJmSt|._ Lou is »*Li'H / 

Bfilfteville IV •^J' 



StMlra"' 



,ci9'''^ 



f? 



<>^i 



'V 




As\>-5J 



Rado 



MATTHEWS NORTHRUP^^"'' T'"pi^>*V?Zill%^f^fD 
TTATm -y MAP OF 

ILLINOIS ■> 

Showing ALL Railroads. Cities, 
Towns AND Principal Villages 



"Jne 



Leansborijr '■■Qslr 



I hhhhiJ 



SCALE OF STATUTE MILES 

30 40 50 60 70 




Elizabelhtown^,,^,,..^^,,. 
5olconaaSr^Ol'* K. 






For INDIAN TERRITORY see page 602 



INDIANA. 




474 IOWA 



For INDIAN TERRITORY see page B02 




KANSAS. 475 




476 KENTUCKY and TENNESSEE 



THE MATTHEWS-NORTH RUP 
HANDY MAP OF 

KENTUCKY and TENNESSEE 

Showing ALL Railroads, Cities, Towns 
AND Principal Villages. 

Drawn, Engraved and Printed 
AT THEIR Complete Art-Printing works in Buffalo. 




KENTUCKY and TENNESSEE 47 7 




•'ToDJiiki.svill; 



Ales 

CoopersvilWl 
Poworsburg / KPine Knot 

•, i. a» „0 . I o Pall M«ll /On.lJa •*f/S'?«"«°j?'iJ«!5^</y -'\T»M«eU^ 

■|'° n OI,i«l«^Crab >V yH.l»,o«a/#.Y4'Sy 
J* Monroe o o JamMU>«n\JLX'Hunts.afevyeH.,Si.Vi 

P -A**! 1 49,"§S?0 ittobbina '^cke; 



CBnh5ge/^0;;jS9,V,ll» OMiraada'7 ipfl^hO GlennJaT 




&i^ '(We„d# /Sunbrigh<,|Sfj|3(, 

f-rr^ */ if Wartbulg! "tv^'ciinlc 



CrosBviUe^ Harri 
°'°'^'''~;,,,Qr»l.a.^jf?|*V<^f/inEsC^\CjpJ7^„/7^ 



Bulls 0>p 

Enibrw.;dUe' 

DundriJge/ ^ 

Newport "^.^j^sM\wr,iVv>" -/'//ovyv 
WolfCr!^^^§iHot Springs 







ii^ar^li^*''«">^^i<»A CUico J^^r., 



■"^^^.^fli-ijTracy CUy 






FBIueSpr.Sti 



cuuon^s^^g^/ CAROL 

U 1^ 1/ ^ ....•SlilWj''™,, ; Wall.alU 



Bllu»y rf^. 




p B'o.ii.plo, 



H 



47S LOUISIANA 




For MARYLAND see page 468 



MAINE. 479 







-"^H^" ' /TTi'l'^ Jackmjn ^Ih, J-t" EBEEME MT. Xj Kii\ 

K i,l M_/ V I ^r nJ Iro" Works '"nd /f%,).>%6ouw >< 



- MlOSE 

-•J ^^ 



\Slijrley Mills I 



rMattawamkeas j 

Springfield f 



i'^' 



4F»JtT 



iJEnfield 



Abbott' Vniaie^E^Sg^^^''' Y'"° "Ifpaaaadumkea 
i\ GuiVfo'^ptC'; taGrangcti ■§)! 

'^^IJinsham ^s.^^-a^^-aj Garland ff\ ^^Greenbush 
-j ^ Wclliiigl on iDcztcr I Alton V-i'^ 



-<^ 7/<s oiiW'sy'j^Y. 

"Vi BiyL. ' RoV>binston>\ 

bt.Andre-.- . 



Sk 1 i ft -Eembroke i V fT 







480 MASSACHUSETTS For Maryland see page 468 




For MICHIGAN see next page 



MINNESOTA 4S1 




4^2 MICHIGAN and WISCONSIN 



Beaver Bay 



>' 



^S™Harbora 
.\ot 








^0 f, ^APOSTlk 



Ontonagon 



^^s" /<^L„„NJ-<jG^c4?^>:--^»sebic\\ j \, Republic fm^°rHj:^' 



White Birch 

Gordon / t> 
B*/Cable 

g^iPhippsSta.) 



Melleo '•^ rjp^?* '^'>.e«?>><Witer^eet'' 



Grantsbu'rg v{. L^^Spooaer ^ iMiesi ^<'A^S^ 




MICHIGAN and WISCONSIN 483 

1 




r,^ I" *'ni» X iPortSmilac 

, Cy. / glantonfj I'>'aca\ ,, U AS \ouer LV^j,^ \<, V^. ^flCloss^-elli^oNoS 




'— — 'V^ , ' l\ /Fair 0rcive,^l „ \ 1 

Zini;a4ikee|J|^t,jUjji"tb^£<52oTsanilacCen.\ Q,^Ja„„,ale 



Ooderiobf 



HollartdVlZeclam 
Ottawa BeachP^Tv L . L 

Dou2la»EKLrK Miadlcville^-^**^;-^;; — L / / \ Mason ipfi-MUford 
i'oug r-»^l\ ^.7 fHaatingy^J^^t^^nip-gtCCh/arlofl^^^ BriUtV^^S 

iMontejfii I /»>>' t.;i<>»la»p.d8 L^ \^ < 

= Bcllevuc ><"*r ,eP^ f Leslie/pinJknej 
1 l'\iunwell\\ Av M'g^^'X kV® -waP 
i Bansor » 
Paw Paw 
Harttord^/ I "^^y ■ 1 lecx \» -o # n , mtr y*? — / ftc^^t^*^ — x" n 



#;a^,a5a^^;^:5^ J 



5' M l-lil 



484 MISSISSIPPI. 




MISSOURI. 485 




486 MONTANA. 



Pbr NEVADA see page. 464 







DC 2 t—' <f^ Sol 
^ ^ z ^ ^^ ^ Z « oj 




For NEW HAMPSHIRE see page 606 NEBRASKA. 487 




NEW JERSEY. 



For NEVADA see page 464 




THE MATTHEWS-NORTHRUP 
HAUX>Y MAP OF 

NEW JERSEY 

Showing ALL Railroads, Cities, 

Towns and Pkincii'ai. Vili.ac.ks. 



'Holly Beach 



SCALE OP STATUTE UUXS. 

^ '-' t-i M I 



ieirellari C ^"'l''"^' ""SO' £""l 



For NEW HAMPSHIRE see page 506 NEW MEXICO. 489 



Cxong-.A 100' B-..^ D /r.i. lU5'g„„^.a E 104° 




THE MATTHEWS-NORTHRUP 
HANDY MAP OF 

NEW MEXICO 

Showing ALL Railroads, Cities, Towns" 
AND Principal Villages. 



490 NEW YORK 




NEW YORK. 49 r 




492 NORTH CAROLINA. 




NORTH DAKOTA. 493 




494 OH'O- 



For OKLAHOMA see page 502 




THE MATTHEWS-NORTHRUP ^ 
HANDY MAP OF 



Showing ALL Railroads, Cities, Towns 

AND Principal Villages. 
DRAWN, Engraved and Printed 

AT THEIR COMPLETE ART-PRINTIMG WORKS IN BUCFALO. 

SCALE OF STATUTE MILES. 
10 20 30 40 50 60 70 BO 



B i.n5.1uJ, 



For OKLAHOMA see page 502 



OREGON. 495 




PENNSYLVANIA 




WSpmrfelST^undjs Lane 
Beaver 
Springbi 

V 1 Ai-Sesviiie ^Meadville '^ /liout. 






pnni,Tiei<»/ Lundjs Lane ,r3i-=»^«=^2^^l>^ c ■ ." ^Vallej/ C 



'of" Cherry GroTcASieffi, 



Buchanuu pi^^^^^aAieo „-„ „ , 

^Shawa Ldp I w. Hickory j^d' E Hickoi 

Coohranton i/Petroleum «\ 

X^^mparytowu ^ r opJumeiiTTi'^ 
Amasa Coop,Jw(oFn5'R«uS.vil|el _*j-^ — ^NcbrasE. v^ v-» v 



JgXslJ^^ Jc 
J*^ C larion _ 

£diybufg^-'<New-Castle---Jffi\:Jetrolia.'?^: |)^^j.;^:\/ y-=^ewBellile hcm 

pletoS" 



Kane> 




^1'"^ Renfro \ 



• ^Canon3burgn|*^r£;, 
|w.IUiddletowTy/ w/*' 
T4ylorsiown ^^W^^gsh^ngtAn 
/ C baric r 

In. Alexander I ? -n- 
VanBureno s\I-''°= ^i?"., I 

; '1-^-AEastB^.tifia: 



■~rA li^uSj/ Belknap °»V^ 'o""! 
" CoyleTmef''^'"^°""''S Smicksburgl Qrd 

^ermao ^.^jj ManorsvUle /P'-'-viUo l^'^, ^.2,y|;,jN^"7>s^uWdalaPory$.'<?K^BM 

■ Matildj^O,<e«Kla^^ 

|((Sle*' /l .'J Boalsbu 

V »;'^>S^iP"°''""^\S^"""<^raikJburgrtaomerCj't"'°Ti'',""'''"^ . ..^ \ T/^Sp,»c. rtiVBat^'M,. °4f^, Ora,iV-j 
■<AV/0^Bakmont '^i=S>rt 6 ^i Jl, Belsano ~1 AttOOnaW AlexandrTS^P^-^K ^^u^-^' 

■rankJortV,. A||efl]?BJJ^^^^ ; /S^nncW^flj^.k Lick ftta EbensbicA^J?!' /f^'^'"''" ^P'" <«-^%Mu.U.:„»H°.„''^i!: 

1* *srji,;'/ci^. , ., ^, c^/MclCiecSDort'.Jsw- ,>,«^.„Wi^Ncw Florence ^jiJinlDliC ■%i^^^ JIr " •fl^'vi'M 



i L^I'ioi^W^N"" Brighton V'SaionburgV //iYRossi 

\ B.,.-«iiP^. Freedom ^YX*'"""* '^"'^NzP^LJ^K 
' j//:-!-\x\t, ;, A^^ Natrona >*C "schbilic 

iojV.^»^* ^ ^ill« WUdwood') ^f^^^^vShady Plain [U{i\znA\ Ua3t\ 

■5en GardenAi?* I VVSewickley J^'^.\, ^^ MC,-^ -\(o Apollo Crete o l/V Uarrnllfnwn 



Gr^en 
Frank: 



.VHuntingc|.pn^ 

"iMcVcj't. 



2lf N>U6' 
SWest STewto^ Unity DavidsviUi 

^Smith^on Mt-Pleasant Jcimeratown 

Scottdale qJ""" MiU ^ 
'[T , KubnP Sipeaville 
ad Ford 
JCon nel Is V i I leBakeraville, 



Hills View VV OEltons 



RoarTjg'IfV^Mapleton Dep^>WPcrfFMa 



(f'Hol_.^^__,_ 

// Hnl/^^Alum Bank = cM^\^^ Q— ^^' "a I 1 f^'^hfidc 

ifHooversvilS'^^' c Riddlesljufo^' /Tliobcrtsdale //i**,^, 



,\Ce,na|^ 



Spriif^abpeo V^'i;".*?? -/,^\ Clear Riage#'5|i... 






I "J-- "'^H. jgg^ I feedstone Jc'f;i>*^Lemont(9Stewa/r 

. Wa,r,esburg>=. Maso/^Sr""'"'' /\Umontow>|C.o 
I Briatoria o^^ forest 



o Akppo 
j "Deep Valley Mt.Morrij 





icLaol* yi 

\j Draketo\vrU' 
' kftf a—lj Fairchauce 



mithaeldJ Confi' 



'" Wymps Gap SomcrScld 




Berlin 
SaUsbur)n#^'^ 



;cheaS1iurgO i^-sJiT.^;/"" H"^"""""™" iBuJnt CabintO 
*' #Srf ' Manns / Ar"^- . ^ Everett Knobsvillej^. ;,,^- Kccfers 
*i^hoice/--^^edford7 ' "' " " ^ 

^ BichmoDd 



,, -- . -^-s.- R^y3 Hill n. „;"„,;,»■ ;^ njci 

#jpIt.Ucaltby/Bufe|; Mills •" °'""°°'f' .^o jj 

P/K? o /..-at\.;ii.o McConnellsburgOf'^ t ' 
Fife Hill AC#o ; '"!k„„ Webster Mals„ .4' A 



ymps^uapsomern^cid^^o^^^^^,,^ _^il:^4°.EMn?iii^_^ 



f!r° Kainsburg Webster MUlSo -Sj^ 1 St^h-dmaa j 
s&" Purcell Ncedmorei .i-'\g'^~ /TTT^ 

..Adman/ o / ?„*.,#, dSUptoi 

si"(?'"--" r o Robinsonville JVIercersbtire o I \ 

ijS^FfanklmMiDsjW^fe^w'g Qf^^Jaat "' ' 




PENNSYLVANIA. 497- 




49^ RHODE ISLAND 



"j to.g. 7i.ai" ir..,fr„„ D u„„^.,vft -i:io' E 




C £"'A<-. 6?43' 'r='»-»'™ D 



s^ss'E i-M 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 499 




500 SOUTH DAKOTA 



For TENNESSEE see page 477 




For TEXAS see next page 



UTAH 50T 



no' 



THE MATTHEWS-NORTHRUP 
HANDY TVTAP OF 

UTAH 

Showing ALL Railroads, Cities, 

Towns and Principal Villages. 




502 TEXAS, OKLAHOMA and INDIAN TERRITORY- For TENNESSEE see page 476 




TEXAS, OKLAHOMA and INDIAN TERRITORY. 503 




504 VIRGINrA and WEST VIRGINIA 



For WISCONSIN see page 482 

c" 



For WASHINGTON see page 507 VIRGINIA and WEST VIRGINIA 505 



,.» F 



THE MATTHEWS-NORTHRUP 
HANDY MAP OF 



VIRGINIA AND WEST VIRGINIA 



^ 



Showing ALL Railroads, Cities, Towns 
AND Principal Villages. 

DRAWN, ENGBAVEO AND PRINTED 
AT THEIR COMPLETE ART-PRINTING WORKS IN BUFFALO. 
SCALE OF STATUTE MILES. 
6 10 20 30 40 6.0 60 70 80 90 

LuLuJ 1-. =^ 1 1— 1= 



^^oluVmbiay 



^ILES ■ 



INCH 



L I 



V 



ut^ e. Uancoci 



vyA'l Berkeley Si'r^^ . , 
^- HedgesviUaV 



t Westminster \ 






Pory/ElktojugJS^^New Ca3^\e__y ^ 

i'f"'"-"e City 
y^ ATownsend^ 
(f^\ MaJsey V/ \ APombay Hgok 
f>i I -4 — \ ^ Smyrna'^ ^ 

,,-, - '-•*t,r-/T I 1 >v/\Clijtia S, ji»* 

AftTIMpRE/ l',7\ l^,\r 

•^ / 4' / 1/ I J)eJait'arB 
tsftown / \r (DOyEB 



3 Centt&rille^ 



'Bridgewatt 

Ml.CrawfJr; 

WeyeraCay 

Sl^eni 






, ...,^,^;'. ^ddleburg ATU^5S^'i^^S7P^i?A%.a f^ 

gf'WoSdvnlpXVy^- Potomac oM./ / \ VI \ M p-^ 1 ViLlDelmar^ ^ 

y"^' ' I ■*/ »;^^<aima4? Remm'jtoiTX ^j]„fi,vme fflfiantico '[„• \ tfschanii3»We | 7'^-~Sf~ll>--\^^'^^ 



'^^rrktoai -Milford 

;o£ I / I . ^eriopm 




5o6 VERMONT and NEW HAMPSHIRE, For VIRGINIA see preceding page 




Fop WISCONSIN see page 482 



WASHINGTON. 507 




5o8 WYOMING 



For WISCONSIN see page 482 





The discoverer of the 

Rocky Mountains was the 

Chevalier de la Verendrye, 

a young Canadian officer. 

In 1742-3, with his brother 

and two French-Canadians, 

he marched from Fort la 

Reine, on the Assiniboine, 

up Mouse River and across 
to the Mandan villages, whence they ascended the Missouri 
to the Gate of the Mountains, in company with a great 
Sioux war party, and established a monument bearing the 
arms of France, in whose name they claimed these lonely 
deserts. Over sixty years passed before the exploring paity 
of Lewis and Clarke traversed Montana, ascending the Mis- 
souri, examining the Great Falls, and then crossing the Lolo 
Pass into Idaho. The Missouri Fur Company was founded 
in I S08 by Clarke, Labadie, Mesnard, Lisa and the Chouteaus. 
The Rocky-Mountain Fur Company commenced operations 
in 1 822, and in 1 834 united with the American Fur Company. 
For the first half-century all the goods used on the upper 
Missouri were cordelled, or dragged by human labor, all the 
long 2,000 miles or more from St. Louis. In 183 1 Chouteau 
had the steamboat Yellozustone built at Pittsburgh, and she 
ascended to Fort Pierre and (in 1832) Fort Union. In i860 
the Chippeiua went up to Fort Benton ; and in 1865 the Tom 
Stevens reached Portage Creek, five miles below the Great 
Falls. Fort Union was built by Kenneth McKenzie and 
fifty men of the American Fur Company, in 1829, as a centre 
of trade with the Assiniboines. Sublette and Campbell 
founded a post on the site of Fort Buford, in 1833. Fort 
Benton was built by Alex. Culbertson, of the American Fur 
Company, in 1846, and became United- States property in 
1869. Fort Buford was erected in 1866, near Fort L^nion. 
In 1861 this vast territory was occupied by wandering Indians, and the only civilized dwel- 
lers were fur-traders and the priests at the lonely Northern missions. The mission- 
ary enterprises of Father de Smet a,n(i other devoted priests began here about half a cen- 



Settled at Fort Union. 

Settled in 1829 

Founded by . . . Fur Traders. 
Admitted to the U. S., . . 
Population in 1870, . . . 20,595 

In 1880, 391I59 

White, 35.385 

Colored, 3i774 

American-born, . . . 27,638 
Foreign-born, .... 11,521 

Males, 28,177 

Females 10,982 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), . 132,159 
Population to the square mile, 0.3 
Voting Population, . . . 21,544 
Net State Debt, .... None. 
Assessed Property(i89o), $106,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 146,080 
U. S. Representatives (1893), I 

Militia (Disciplined), . . . 677 

Counties, 17 

Post-offices, 393 

Railroads (miles), .... 2,181 
Manufactures (yearly), . $1,835,867 

Operatives, 578 

Yearly Wages, . . . $318,759 
Farm Land (in acres), . . 405,683 

Farm-Land Values, . $3,234,504 

Farm Products (yearly) $2,024,923 
Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 8,600 

Newspapers 66 

Latitude 44^6' to 49° N . 

Longitude, . . . 104" to 116" W. 
Temperature, . . . — 63''toiiio 
Mean Temperature (Helena), 43° 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Helena, 13.834 

Butte, 10,723 

Great Falls, 3.979 

Anaconda, 3.97S 

Missoula 3.426 

Livingston, 2,850 

Bozeman 2,143 

Walkerville, 1.743 

Marysville, 1.489 

Deer-Lodge City, .... 1.463 



5IO 



KJiVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MONTANA COWBOYS. 



tury ago, during the era of the fur-traders. The gold-discoveries of 1861, and the rich 
treasures of placer-gold found in Alder Gulch in 1863, drew to Montana thousands of adven- 
turers from all over the Union. The gold-dust in Alder Gulch yielded $25,000,000 in a few 
months. It has been jocularly stated that Mon- 
tana was first settled by the left wing of " Pap" 
Price's Confederate army, shattered at the battle 
of Pea Ridge, Missouri, and not venturing to 
pause in their flight until safe in the shelter of 
the Rocky Mountains. The van-guard of colo- 
nization did indeed come from Missouri, and one 
of the chief towns of the Territory was named 
for Jefferson Davis's daughter. Before long 
the mining-camps were the prey of their worst elements, and murder and robbery were 
events of hourly occurrence ; and then the citizens formed powerful vigilance committees, 
and rid the Territory of its refuse population, banishing many and putting others to death. 
The most prominent man in Territorial days was Benjamin F. Potts, who won the stars 
of a general in the civil war, and then became an Ohio State Senator. He served as gov- 
ernor of Montana from 1870 to 1883, with signal ability and success. He died in 1887, 
and is buried at Helena. 

The Indian wars and the advance of the pioneers are recorded in Leeson's great 1400- 
page History of Montana. « The First Montana Cavalry took the field in 1867 ; and after the 
disastrous battle with the Nez Perces at Big Hole, ten years later, twelve companies of Ter- 
ritorial militia were mustered to defend the settlements. Large National forces, led by the 
best officers of the army, have campaigned among these stern valleys for many years, facing 
a powerful and wily foe. The most direful tragedy in their annals occurred on the Rosebud 
River, in June, 1876, when Gen. Custer advanced against the great Sioux village, at the 
head of the 7th United-States Cavalry. Taking five troops to make an attack on one side, 
he sent seven troops under Reno and Benteen to charge up the valley. The latter force was 
repelled and besieged on the bluffs, and Custer's detachment, enveloped by thousands of In- 
dians, was annihilated to the last man. A National Cemetery now occupies a part of the 
battle-ground. The Sioux and other tribes kept up their pitiless warfare until Gen. Miles 
with a small force inflicted upon them a series of defeats, in the campaign of 1876-7. Since 
the era of railway-building set in, line after line of rails has been laid across Montana, fol- 
lowed by hundreds of towns, until the lone land of 
i860 has developed into a busy State. 

The Name Montana means "of or belonging to 
the mountains," and is of Latin origin. The In- 
dian name for the country, Td Yabe-Shock' up, had 
the same meaning. The Country of the Alountains. 
The pet name, The Bonanza. State, on account 
of its many bonanza mines, was given by Judge 
John Wasson Eddy, and has been very generally 
accepted. 

The Arms of Montana show a plow, with a 
miner's pick and shovel, a buffalo retreating, and 
in the background a brilliant sun setting behind the 
Rocky Mountains. The motto is Oro y Plata, Spanish words signifying "Gold and Silver." 
The Governors of Montana have been ; Territorial: Sydney Edgerton, 1864-5 ; Thos. 
Francis Meagher (acting), 1865-6; Green Clay Smith, 1866-9; J^^- ^'^- Ashley, 1869-70 ; 
Benj. F. Potts, 1870-83; John Schuyler Crosby, 1883-4; B. Piatt Carpenter, 1884-5; Sam- 
uel T. Hauser, 1885-7; Preston H. Leslie, 1S87 9; and Benj. F. White, 1889. The first 
State governor was Joseph K. Toole, 1889-93. 




MISSION MOUNTAIN, IN THE FLATHEAD COUNTRY. 



THE STATE OF MONTANA. 



511 




GREAT FALLS : WAGON-BRIDGE. 



Descriptive. — Montana is one of the far 
Northwestern States, a fifth of its area lying 
beyond the Rocky Mountains, on the high 
plateau between the Continental Divide and 
the Bitter-Root Range. On the north are 
the Canadian provinces of Assiniboia, Alberta 
and British Columbia ; on the east, the Da- 
kotas ; on the south, Wyoming ; and on the 
southwest and west, Idaho. The northern boundary was surveyed in 1872-5, by American 
and British officers, and marked with iron pillars. Montana is in two diverse sections, the 
eastern two thirds consisting of rolling plains, clothed mainly with sage-brush and bunch- 
grass, and ascending westward from a height of 2,000 to 4,000 feet. The western third is 
the mountain-region, covering 50,000 square miles of ranges, from 8,000 to 1 1,000 feet high, 
with lofty valleys and passes. In the south the mountains are cut by low notches ; but in 
the north they stand like unbroken Titanic walls. The elevation is so much less than that 
of Colorado and Wyoming that the climate is favorably affected thereby, counterbalancing 
the temperature natural to its higher latitude. The area of Montana exceeds that of the 
British islands, or of New England, New York, New Jersey, Delaware and Maryland com- 
bined. Its northern frontier equals in length the distance from Boston to Richmond, and is 
as far from its southern extremity as Long-Island Sound is from Montreal. Its area includes 

30,000,000 acres of farm-lands, 38,000,000 of graz- 
ing lands, and 26, 000, 000 of woods and mountains. 
There are forests of pine and cedar, along the 
mountains and down the great valleys. Tongue 
River has valuable growths of black ash ; and Hell- 
Gate River flows through noble forests of yellow 
pine. A profitable lumbering business has been 
developed, and saw-mills occupy many of the 
water-powers. The fertile valleys of the mountains 
may be irrigated and cultivated with success. The 
farm-products bring good prices, in the great min- 
ing-camps and cities of Montana. The broad bench-lands and valleys of the east can be cul- 
tivated only by the aid of extensive irrigation-canals, and the rivers are adequate to water 
only a part of the agricultural lands of this vast parched area. Private enterprise has built 
costly canals in many localities. The Gallatin Canal, twenty feet wide and four feet deep, 
takes water from the West Gallatin River, where it issues from the mountains, and refreshes 
the valley above Bozeman for twenty-two miles. The Sun-River Canals are over 100 miles 
long, with immense reservoirs. The Tongue-River Canal is twenty-nine miles long, five feet 
deep and fourteen feet wide on top. The Billings Ditch is thirty miles long and six feet deep. 
More than half of eastern Montana is in dry rolling prairies of immense extent, without 
trees or farming capabilities. Near the mountains they bear a luxuriant growth of nutriti- 
ous bunch-grass, but as they fall away toward the east the arid soil is monopolized by sage- 
brush and greasewood. The Bad Lands (^Mauvaises 
Terres) of the Lower Yellowstone are a labyrinth of 
singular forms, with a soft and disintegrating clayey 
rock, in whose powdery soil animals sink to their fet- 
locks. When it is wet this substance becomes a sticky 
mud, of perilous depth and tenacity. Everywhere are 
found in this tangle of ravines and natural architecture 
the bones of myriads of extinct animals, a weird mau- 
soleum of unknown forms. Gen. Sully aptly charac- 
terized this region as "hell, with the fires out." 




THE THREE FORKS OF THE MISSOURI. 




CLARKE'S FORK : HORSE PLAINS. 



512 



Av.vrrs // / Av^A'oc^A' of the united states. 




DEER PARK. 



Near the headwaters of the Missouri, Jefferson, 
Madison, Sun, Teton and Marias Rivers extend 
broad areas of arable land. The Gallatin Valley, 
35 by twelve miles in area, has a mild and pleasant 
climate, . and is already partly cultivated, with 
several prosperous towns. It has been called "The 
Egypt of Montana, "on account of its rich soil and 
plenteous farm-products, exceeding $1,000,000 
a year, in cereals, hay, potatoes, fruits, and live- 
stock. The Judith Basin is a tract of 1,500 square miles of grassy prairie, running south- 
ward from the Missouri to Judith Gap. 

The country north of the Missouri is an immense rolling prairie, broken by the forests 
of the Little Rocky and Bear-Paw Mountains and the Sweet-Grass Hills. This tract of 
18,000,000 acres of virgin soil, formerly reserved for the Gros- Ventre, Piegan and River-Crow 
Indians, was thrown open for settlement, by the President's proclamation, in May, 1888. 
The Sweet-Grass Hills (or Three Buttes), 72 miles from Fort Assiniboine, are above 8,000 
feet high, and abound in timber and coal, gold and silver, copper and lead. The Kalispel 
country is a wedge-shaped region nearly as large as Connecticut, west of the Rocky Moun- 
tains, and including Flathead Lake and the homes of the Flathead and Pend 'Oreilles tribes. 
Very few whites have settled in this great lonely land. 

The main range of the Rocky Mountains forms the southwestern frontier, from the head 
of the Madison River to Missoula County, and then bends northeast into the State, crossing 
it for 300 miles, east of Deer Lodge and Flathead Lake, and then 
entering Canada. The great Bitter-Root Range derives its name 
from a plant with rose-colored blossoms, whose pipestem-like 
roots are dug up by the Indian squaws for winter food. The 
chief summits of the range are Lolo Peak and St. -Mary's Peak. 
The Bitter-Root Valley, on the east, is 90 miles long and 
seven miles wide, enwalled by noble mountains, and abounding 
in farms and corn-fields. The Snowy Mountains, near the bend 
of the Yellowstone ; the Wolf and Powder-River Ranges, in the southeast ; the Pryor Moun- 
tains, west of the Big-Horn ; the Crazy, Big-Belt, Little-Belt, Highwood, Judith and Bull 
Mountains, between the Yellowstone and Missouri ; and the Kootenai and Cabinet Ranges, in 
the far northwest, nobly diversify the face of the country, lifting their purple, blue and gray 
summits over the long levels of the Plains, and crowned for many months with dazzling snows. 
Two of the greatest rivers in America take their rise here. Clarke's Fork of the Colum- 
bia is formed by the confluence of the Flathead and the 
Missoula, and runs northwest around the Bitter-Root 
Range into Idaho, sweeping through narrow wooded 
glens. The Missouri River is formed at Three Forks, in 
the Gallatin Valley, by the confluence of the Jefferson, 
Madison and Gallatin Rivers. The Jefferson is the chief 
stream, 250 miles long. The Missouri has 1,300 miles 
of its course in Montana. At Three Forks, the stream 
may be forded, at low water, being but 500 feet wide ; 
and it is navigable from here to the Gulf of Mexico, ex- 
cept for the Great Falls. Nearly to Fort Benton (250 
miles) it traverses a valley 75 miles wide. Its chief 
tributaries are the Sun, Teton and Marias, from the 
Rockies ; the Milk, traversing Alberta and Assiniboia ; and 
j^i&r^ :^^ ^^^ ^_ "~- 'UutJ the Musselshell, from the south. The two last are nearly 
ROCKY-MOUNTAIN SCENERY. ^^''X ^'^ their mouths in autumn. The Gate of the Moun- 




BEAVER-HEAD ROCK. 




THE STATE OF MONTANA. 



513 




PRICKLY-PEAR CANON. 



tains is the canon traversed by the Missouri 18 miles east of 
Helena, cutting for five miles through a pinnacled and castel- 
lated gorge of grayish white rock from 600 to 1,000 feet deep. 
This sombre ravine was named by Lewis and Clarke. Its walls 
are precipitous most of the way, with no footing between the water 
and the mountain-side. The river is narrowed to 300 feet, with a 
depth of over ten feet ; and its placid surface reflects the cliffs and 
forests like a vast mirror. Ten miles below the Gate, the Missouri 
traverses Atlantic Canon, at whose end rise the rocky tusks of 
Bear's-Tooth Mountain, 2, 500 feet above the river, and one of the 
most famous northern landmarks. The steamboat Rose of Helena 
navigates these wild gorges, for pleasure travel. Forty miles below 
the canon is the Long Pool, famous for the mysterious cannon-like 
booming which from time to time reverberates over its placid sur- 
face. The Great Falls of the Missouri begin three miles below the 
mouth of the Sun River, and descend 450 feet in 15 miles. The 
Black-Eagle Falls, of 26 feet, come first, with their lonely and 
historic islet. Four miles below are the Rainbow Falls, where 
the Missouri plunges 40 feet, over a curving rim of rock 900 feet long, with vast roaring, 
mist-clouds and rainbows. Just below comes the Crooked (or Horse-Shoe) Fall, of 19 
feet ; and nearer Rainbow Falls the vast crystal river of Giant Spring enters the Missouri. 
Near by are the works of the Montana Smelter Company. Six miles below this point are the 
Great Falls, where the Missouri plunges down 87 feet, vertically on one side, and by 
a series of steps on the other, surrounded by cliffs, ravines and red boulders. The roar- 
ing of this cataract is heard for ten miles, along the grand grassy plateau which environs the 
stream. For five miles below the Missouri is vexed with rapids, and then come the stiller 
waters, which may be navigated to Fort Benton (35 miles) and the Gulf of Mexico, 
over 4,000 miles distant. Below Fort Benton the river flows first over a gravelly bed and 
then between high and arid bluffs, and only light-draught steamboats can pass after July. 
There are several steamboats engaged in the Missouri commerce, but the freightage has fallen 
off greatly since the railroads reached the valleys. The navigation of the Missouri above the 
Great Falls was initiated by the Little Phil in 1883, and is of value in carrying farm-produce 
to Great Falls. 

The Yellowstone River rises in the Yellowstone National Park, in Wyoming, and trav- 
erses the entire length of Montana, for 850 miles, receiving the Big-Horn, Rosebud, Tongue, 
Powder, and other rivers. It is navigable to the Crow- Agency landing, and even to the 
present site of Billings, by small steamboats ; and Mackinaw 
boats may ascend 1 00 miles further. Since the railroad entered 
the valley, in 1881, steamboat navigation has been practically 
suspended. The first steamboats up the Yellowstone were the 
Alone; the Cutler, in 1869 ; and the Key West, the latter ascend- 
ing 245 miles, to the Powder River. In 1875 Gen. Forsythe took 
the Josephi}ie 418 miles up the Yellowstone, to Huntly, near 
Billings. In 1877 24 steamers plied on this lonely stream. 
Steamers have ascended the Big-Horn to Fort Custer. The 
rivers abound in trout and salmon-trout, grayling, garfish, pike, 
suckers and catfish. 

Flathead Lake, 28 by ten miles, is crossed by a line of 
green islands, and hemmed between tall cliffs and emerald 
meadows, with a village of Indian farmers at its foot, where 
the great river rushes out. Steamboats navigate the lake, and 
run up the Flathead River. Forty miles south is St. -Ignatius qate of the mountains. 




5M 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




GREAT FALLS OF MISSOURI RIVER. 



Mission, near the beautiful Two- Sisters Cascades. Far north of 
Flathead Lake, the trackless Boundary Mountains are reflected in 
the Kintla and other lakes. There are many beautiful mountain- 
lakes in Deer-Lodge County, and in the Tobacco-Root Range, and 
elsewhere. 

The State abounds in scenic attractions, including the great 
cavern 20 miles west of Dillon, lined with shining crystals ; the 
Beaver-Head Rock and Twin Falls ; Silver Springs, in the Ruby 
Valley ; the high-walled Prickly-Pear and Hell-Gate Canons, and 
many other gorges of romantic beauty ; and the secluded Kalis- 
pel country. A small segment of the Yellowstone National Park 
lies within Montana. The mineral springs of Montana are num- 
bered by hundreds, and some of them have attained fame as health-resorts. The Warm 
Springs are 40 in number, containing iron, soda and magnesia, and with a temperature of 
from 115° to 170°. Here rises the wigwam-shaped Geyser cone, with its perpetual smoke 
ascending like a council-fire, the vicinity of which became the grazing ground of white-tailed 
deer, and was called by the Indians the Lodge of White-Tailed Deer, and the whites called it 
Deer-Lodge Valley. 

It is a matter of surprise to find in a commonwealth so re- 
cently rescued from the wilderness and the savage, one of the 
most perfectly appointed and elegant health-resorts in the Union, 
visited each season by thousands of wealthy and fashionable 
families. This is the Hotel Broadwater, reached from Helena 
by electric cars, traversing the finest residence-quarter of the city, 
and also by the GreatNorthern Railway. The grounds are prettily 
laid out, and command grand views of the mountains, whose 
crisp and electric air flows in a life-giving current over all. The 
adjacent Hot Springs flow at a temperature of 160°, and have 
high medicinal virtue, the water being used in a variety of sump- 
tuous baths in the hotel. The fine Moorish building of the 
Xatatorium is the largest bath-house in the world, 'with a plunge- 
bath 100 by 320 feet in area, the hot mineral water rushing into 
it over an artificial cascade of 40 feet, amid tropical flowers and 
the sound of music. This famous resort was the site of a little pioneer road-house. In 1887, 
it was bought, together with all the land and water in the neighborhood, by Col. C. A. 
Broadwater, an old Montanian, who has since spent over $500,000 in transforming it to an 




WHITE-ROCK CANON, 



heated by steam and lighted 
while the surrounding gar- 
and near mountains, are of 




unrivalled health-resort. The hotel is 
by electricity, and sumptuously furnished ; 
dens and ponds, and the views of the far 
wonderful interest. The enterprise of Col. 
Broadwater, conspicuous in several im- 
portant enterprises of Helena, has raised 
up at this point a sanitarium which is des- 
tined to rival the Hot Springs of Arkan- 
sas, in popularity and in medicinal benefit to the 
suffering. 

The White-Sulphur vSprings have hotels, cottages 
and bath-houses. Puller's Hot Springs, in Ruby 
Valley, are tinctured with sulphur and iron. Hun- 
ter's Hot Springs, and Lewis Hot Springs, and the Boulder, Pipestone and Clancy Springs, 
are well-known health-resorts. Alhambra Warm Springs are rich in medicinal virtue. All 
these springs have hotels and cottages near them, for the accommodation of visitors. 



HELENA : HOTEL BROADWATER AND NATATORIUM. 



THE STATE OF MONTANA. 



515 




SILVtR-BOW CANON. 



The Climates of Montana are of great variety, with a mean 
annual temperature of from 40° to 50°, rapid and violent varia- 
tions, the possibility of frost in every month, and yet a milder 
general aspect than this high latitude would indicate. The rain- 
fall in most of the State is but from ten to 16 inches yearly; 
and on the Plains, and along the Jefferson, Madison, Gallatin and 
Yellowstone Rivers farming must be accompanied by irrigation. 
The rainy season extends from April until midsummer. In the 
northwestern corner all is different. This section, including Mis- 
soula and Deer-Lodge Counties, is on the Pacific slope, west of 
the Rocky Mountains, and has 25 inches of rain yearly, with 
a mild temperature from the Chinook winds. The Missoula, 
Bitter-Root, Kootenai and Flathead Valleys can be cultivated 
without irrigation, and the mountains and glens are covered with 
valuable forests of large pines, firs and cedars. The mean annual 
temperature of Fort Benton is 4° warmer than that of Chicago. 
Helena has the unusual number of 294 fair days in each year. The temperature of the 
Bitter-Root Valley is the same as that of Philadelphia. Deer Lodge is on the latitude of 
Venice ; the northern frontier on that of Paris. The snow-falls of Wyoming and Colorado 
exceed that of Montana, whose altitude is less than theirs. The Chinook winds, from the 
great warm current of Japan, are a remarkable feature of the Montana winters, bringing a 
soft spring temperature, melting the snows like a furnace- 
blast, and extending their balmy influences for 300 miles 
east of the Divide. The northwest winds that occasionally 
sweep down from the Canadian Rocky Mountains are bitterly 
cold, but endurable on account of their dryness. 

Among the animals here found are mule deer, or black- 
tailed deer, elk, moose, antelope, beaver, mountain sheep and 
Rocky- Mountain goats, grizzly and black bears, mountain 
lions, wild cats, lynxes and gray wolves. In 1870 8,000,000 
buffaloes roamed the Western Plains. In 1880 millions of 
buffalo were wantonly slaughtered in this region, and in 1884 the last great herd of buffalo, 
numbering 75,000 head, wintered in the Bad Lands, and was well-nigh exterminated by red 
and white hunters. It may be doubted if there is now even a small herd left in the State. 
Agriculture has not yet reached a high development. Wheat of a superior grade, oats 
and corn, are raised in the valleys, and small quantities of vegetables and fruits. The stock- 
raising interest has assumed great prominence in Montana, whose vast plains afford pas- 
turage for m.illions of domestic animals, needing little shelter or feeding in winter. The 
occasional severe cold and deep snows have entailed heavy losses upon the cattle-men, but 
improved methods are averting much of this destruction. The State contains 1,500,000 head 
of cattle, 200,000 horses, and 1,300,000 sheep. The latter produce yearly 10,000,000 pounds 
of wool, and $2,000,000 worth of mutton. The flocks run on 
open ranges, guarded by shepherds and dogs, finding bunch-grass 
enough for food in winter, except during the severest weather, 
when they are folded and fed on hay. There are a number of 
large horse-ranches, also, where Kentucky trotting stallions 
and English and Norman draft stallions are used for breed- 
ing with native mares. Thousands of two-year-old steers 
from Texas and New Mexico are bought by the Montana 
stockmen, and kept on the ranges for two years, and then 
sold for beef. They attain a much greater weight in Mon- 
HELENA THE u.-s. ASSAY OFFICE '^^"^ '^'^'^ '^^^X ^^^"^ '^^'^ °" "^^ southwestcm plalus. Over 




HELENA : THE HIGH SCHOOL. 




5i6 



A'lNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MINING SCENE 
IN MONTANA. 



100,000 head are sent eastward yearly, besides the great num- 
ber devoted to home-consumption. The local production of hay 
amounts to 240,000 tons, and enables the herders to winter-feed 
their cattle, when necessary. The cow-punchers of the plains 
are a large body of active and fearless young men, for a long 
time a characteristic feature of Western civilization. 

Mining is the foremost industry of Montana, which has 
already added $400,000,000 to the Nation's wealth from this 
resource. Nearly one third of the gold, silver, copper and lead 
mined in the United States comes from Montana, which surpasses in its product Colorado, 
California and Nevada alike. A small quantity of gold was found in the Deer-Lodge Val- 
ley in 1852, and richer deposits were discovered on Little Prickly-Pear Creek, in 1861, and 
thence the country became settled, miners pouring in from all parts of the world. During 
ten years $135,000,000 in gold were taken out ; but little was done in mining until after i860, 
when Hauser, Bozeman, the Stuarts, and others developed the lodes of southwestern Mon- 
tana. Bannock began to produce in 1862. The Alder-Gulch (Virginia City) district was 
opened in 1863, and has yielded $50,000,000. Last-Chance Gulch (Helena), opened in 
1864, has produced $15,000,000. Quartz-mining was begun after 1870, and now vast and 
costly plants, with the most efficient machinery, are perpetually at work. The smelters at 
Helena, Great Falls and Castle alone cost $10,000,000. In 1888 Montana produced $4,250,- 
000 in gold, $19,500,000 in silver, $13,685,000 in copper, and $1,050,000 in lead. The 
Butte mines alone produced $23,000,000 in 1888, from their remarkable series of ore chan- 
nels, five miles long and from ten to 100 feet wide, and of un- 
known depth. The great corporations at work here make 
enormous and unreported profits, and have some of the most 
costly and efficient plants in the world. The Granite-Mountain 
mine has produced $12,000,000 since 1880. Eight hundred 
men are employed here. The Drum-Lummon mine, at Marys- 
ville, has sent out upwards of $6,000,000. Immense deposits 
of copper occur at Butte, Copperopolis, and other points, the 
ore yielding from 20 to 50 per cent, of metal. Butte and Anaconda have sent out 120,- 
000,000 pounds in a year, their product being one fourth of the world's supply. 

Coal-measures underlie 60,000 square miles, along the Missouri and Yellowstone. There 
is much poor lignite ; but the mines near Livingston and Bozeman produce a valuable coking 
coal, and large deposits occur at other points. The coal-fields east and south from Sand 
Coulee cover 360 square miles, along the Belt Mountains, 14 miles from Great Falls; 
and send out their product over a branch railway, supplying the Montana Central and 
Great Northern Railways. One thousand tons are mined daily, by 400 men, from veins 
varying in thickness from six to 20 feet. It is a valuable steam coal, and much of it cokes 
well. Large deposits of black-band iron-ore are found in the Belt Range, near Great Falls, 
and bog and magnetic ores occur elsewhere. The mountains yield 
inexhaustible supplies of pale pink porphyry, gray granite, cream- 
colored sandstone, white and tinted marbles, 
limestone and fire-clay ; and plumbago and 
quicksilver, zinc and other minerals have 
been found. 

The Government includes the usual 
executive officers, elected by the people ; 
and a legislature of 16 senators and 55 
representatives. The Supreme Court has 
three justices. The State Militia consists of 
a regiment of seven companies of infantry, 

DAIRY FARM IN MONTANA. '^ 




CATTLE IN MONTANA. 




ym±' 



THE ST A TE OF MONTANA. 



517 




DEER LODGE : THE GOLLEL,t OF MONTANA. 



and also two companies of cavalry. Convicts are 
confined in idleness in the United-States Peniten- 
tiary at Deer Lodge, the State paying for them. 
The Insane Asylum is at Warm Springs. 

Education has been from the first one of the 
chief interests of the community, and wise laws 
have fostered and guarded its growth, although 
under the great disadvantages of a widely scat- 
tered population. The College of Montana was 
opened at Deer Lodge, in 1883, and its buildings, Trask Hall and the North and South Dor. 
mitories, overlook the valley and its mountain-walls. It is a co-educational and Christian 
school, with 32 students in the college and the school of mines, 80 in the academy, and 38 
in other departments. Montana University is a new Methodist institution, at Helena, and 
a part of its noble projected building has been erected and occupied. 

Helena has the Law and Free Libraries, and the valuable collections of the Montana His- 
torical Society, besides several large private entrances. 

The first newspaper was the Montana Post, started at Virginia City in 1864, and the 
Helena Herald began its issues in 1866. The Independent started at Deer Lodge in 1867, 
and moved to Helena in 1874. 

Religion entered Montana with the Jesuit priests, who were entreated by the Flatheads 
to come hither, nearly 60 years ago. The cathedral, hospital, asylum and academy of 
this church are at Helena ; and more than a score of churches lift their crosses over other 
cities. Episcopal services were held at Virginia ,. - • .,---, 

City in 1865, and the State now forms a mis- 
sionary diocese, with 25 parishes and nearly 
1,000 communicants. The Presbytery of Mon- 
tana arose in 1872, and contains several churches. 
Methodist services were first held in 1863, at 
Virginia City, and the denomination now has 
more than a score of societies. The Baptists 
and other denominations are well represented. The old-time frontier gibe that " west of 
Bismarck there is no Sunday, and west of Miles City there is no God," is heard no more. 

National Works. — The chief of the garrisoned defences of Montana is Fort Assini- 
boine, near Milk River and the Bear-Paw Mountains, and 65 miles northeast of Fort 
Benton. It is a nine-company fort, one of the most commodious in the West, built in .1879, 
to repress the forays of the Sioux exiled from Assiniboia, and to hold in check the Piegans, 
Gros Ventres and Assiniboines. It has garrison-schools, chapel, theatre, gymnasium, read- 
ing-room and gardens. Fort Keogh, on the Yellowstone, is a nine-company fort, erected by 
Gen. Miles, in 1877, to hold the Sioux in check. Fort Custer, with a garrison of seven 
companies, was built in 1877, near the scene of the Custer massacre. Fort Shaw, founded 
in 1867, to protect the Helena-Benton road from incursions of the Northern Indians, is on 
the Sun River, and contains four companies. Fort Maginnis, with two companies, was es- 
tablished in the Judith Basin, in 1880. Camp Poplar-River, with two companies, dates from 
~---^-~-^,^--__ 1882, and protects the Fort-Peck Agency, on the 

Missouri. Fort Missoula, on the St. Mary's, is 
held by four companies. About 1,600 soldiers 
make up the Montana garrisons. Many other 
border fortresses were erected and defended by 
the National and Territorial troops and the fur- 
companies, and afterwards abandoned, and de- 
stroyed by the Indians, leaving hardly a trace of 
HELENA ; MONTANA UNIVERSITY. their existcncc. 




-JOHN'S HOSPITAL. 




5i8 



A'/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




FORT ASSINIBOINE. 



The Flathead Agency has charge of 
i,ooo Pend'Oreilles, industrious and com- 
fortable farmers in the Mission Val- 
ley ; 500 Flatheads, including the Bitter- 
Root clan, recently placed on the reserva- 
tion ; 62 Lower Kalispels, moved hither 
from Idaho; and 425 Kootenais, "inveter- 
ate loafers and gamblers." The agency is 
in 'the pleasant and mountain-girt Jocko Valley, 30 by ten miles in area, and the reserva- 
tion extends for 60 miles, covering 1,500,000 acres. The Flatheads are an inoffensive and 
industrious tribe, whose boast is that they never killed a white man. The Pend'Oreilles 
and Flathead (or Selish) tribes are of the same race and language. They have received 
religious and other instruction from the Jesuit schools and churches, at St. -Mary's Mission, 
founded by Father DeSmet, under the Bitter-Root Mountains, and St. -Ignatius' Mission, 
near the red cliffs that enwall the Jocko Valley. The Italian priests stationed here for half 
a century published a dictionary of Kalispel-English and English-Kalispel, from the printing- 
house at the Mission. The Blackfeet, Bloods and Piegans have a reservation 45 miles 
square, northeast of Flathead Lake, governed by an agent and a band of efficient Indian 
police. They number 1,800 persons. The Crow Indians number 2,300, occupying a reserva- 
tion in southern Montana, with their agency near Custer's battle-field. Since Gen. Ruger 
defeated and slew their chief. Sword Bearer, in 1887, the tribe has been settling into farmers 
and freighters. The children are taught in agency, Jesuit and Unitarian schools. The 
Northern Cheyennes have their reservation 
and agency contiguous to and east of the Crow 
country, among ranges of gloomy mountains, i-^ 

There are 900 people in this tribe, placed • 

here in 1881, by Gen. Miles, as prisoners of 
war. The reservation of 840,000 acres be- 
tween the Little Rocky Mountains and Milk 
River is occupied by 800 Gros Ventres and 
1,000 Assiniboines. The Fort-Peck Agency 
has 713 Assiniboines and 1,200 Yankton 
Sioux. The Assiniboines have now 5,000 in the Piauie ami Wt 
and 5,000 in the Upper and Red-Stone clans of Montana. 

Chief Cities. — Helena, the legislative, judicial, financial, commercial and educational 
capital anil chief railway centre of Montana, is at the eastern base of the Missouri range of 
the Rocky Mountains. It is no longer the old mining-camp, but ranks among the bright- 
est and most hopeful and enterprising of Western cities, and claims to be one of the richest 
cities of its size in the world. Several of the millionaires of Montana have made their 
homes at Helena, which has in its West End a very pleasant residence-quarter, overlooked 
by the Rocky Mountains. The city has creditable public buildings, and many solid, hand- 
some and modern business blocks, occupied by prosperous and substantial firms. The vast 
,„fp:;n;^ ^ mining, stock-raising and farming operations of the Bonanza State centre 









-^[■r m^ M n M il r- I •- " 



FORT BENTON 



d Assniibouieb \\\ Canada, 




THE CUSTER MONUMENT. 



their finances in Helena, which increases in population with the 
amazing development of these properties. The city is also rich in 
fine schools and churches, and has several good clubs. Helena 
stands in the Prickly-Pear Valley, in a picturesquely diversified 
situation, and amid interesting mountain-scenery. It is 4,256 
feet above the sea, and has a dry and invigorating atmosphere, 
with over 250 days of sunshine in a year. It is a healthy cli- 
mate, free from consumption, malaria or hay-fever. The city 
has electric and gas lights, electric, horse, and dummy street- 



THE STATE OE MONTAiWA. 



519 




BUTTE : COURT-HOUSE. 



cars, sewerage, water-works, public libraries, and a large fire-department. 
Helena lies i, 100 miles from Minneapolis on the east, and 900 miles from 
Portland on the west. At this midland point, and in the centre of rich 
and progressive Montana, stands this brave young city of the 
mountains, with a population of about 15,000, and having a re- 
puted wealth of $100,000,000. The welfare and advancement of 
Helena are fostered by a Board of Trade, and also by an active 
Citizens' Committee. At Helena is the U. -S. Assay Office, 
and Broadwater's half-million-dollar hotel and natatorium. 

Butte City is a smoky, busy and nervous mining camp 
of 10,000 people, the seat of the great Anaconda Mine, and 
other gold, silver and copper properties, with an output of 
!|!23,000,000 a year. Cable cars, zigzag railways, electric lights, tall iron chimneys and 
hundreds of saloons help to make up the largest mining-camp in America. Twenty-eight 
miles west, at Anaconda (founded in 1883), is the largest smelter in the world, working 
night and day on the ores from the Anaconda Mine. Great Falls has grown within five years 
to an important railway and manufacturing town of 5,000 inhabitants, the chief wool-market 
in the State, and with the Boston & Montana Copper-Smelter and Refining-Works and the 
Great-Falls Silver-Lead Smelter. Fort Benton, at the head of navigation on the Missouri, 
is still the centre of the fur-trade, and has grown to be a city of several thousand people. 
Virginia City is near the Madison River and at the x /" \ -. -^'^ 

head of the famous Alder Gulch. Bozeman - — 

nestles at the head of the Gallatin Valley, ■^Sffi?^^^^eri'«a^Si^^j#i^^^#"^^ 
surrounded by the noble peaks of the Rocky ^■'*^i.®G^ag^^gj^3^'"^^j_^^Q_ " 
and Belt Mountains, and in a region of rich ' ^ , 




^ffi-^-^. 



lumberinc 



GLENDIVE. 

md farmina 



and it is the third 



farms and mines. Miles City and Glendive 
are exporting points for the lower Yellow- 
stone cattlemen. Missoula flourishes in mining 
city in the State. 

The Railroads of Montana had twelve miles of track m 1S80. They now operate 
above 1,800 miles. The Utah & Northern Railroad, from Ogden to Butte, Helena and Gar- 
rison, 584 miles, entered Montana in 1880 by way of Beaver Canon. It pertains to the Union 
Pacific system. The Northern Pacific traverses the State from east to northwest, and throws 
off many branches, its lines within Montana aggregating above 1,000 miles. The Bozeman 
Tunnel, 3,600 feet long, and the Mullan Tunnel, 3,850 feet long, were both opened in 1883, 








ik^'^^^^'K^^i 



BUTTE C TY THE GREAT M N NG CAMP 



the same year in which Henry Villard drove the famous golden spike, completing the trans- 
continental line of the Northern Pacific, between Garrison and Gold Creek. The Great 
Northern Railway follows the Missouri and Milk Rivers from the eastern border of Montana 



520 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




clear across the 
State, entering 
Idaho over the 
Marias Pass. A 
branch diverges 
from Fort Assi- 
niboine to Great 
Falls and Hel- 
ena ; and minor 
lines connect 

HELENA, THE CAPITAL OF MONTANA. t^ ,, . , 

Great Jails with 
Sand Coulee and Niehart. The Great Northern Railway, from Minot westward to Great 
Falls, a distance of 600 miles, was built in six months, or at the rate of over 100 miles a 
month. The Montana Union line connects Butte, Silver Bow and Garrison (52 miles). 
The Great Falls & Canada Railway connects Great Falls with Lethbridge, in the Province 
of Alberta, and Dunmore. in Assiniboia, on the Canadian Pacific line. There are many 
miles of railroad under construction in all parts of the State. 

Finance. — The annual product of Montana is over $60,000,000 (one half in metal, one 
tnird in live-stock, one sixth in farm-products and lumber), or nearly $400 for each inhabi- 
tant, man, woman and child. It is claimed that no other country in the world can show an 
equal product for its population. Much of the steady advance in prosperity is due to the 
conspicuous financial ability of some of the pioneers, who 
founded institutions of enduring merit. The First National 
Bank of Helena was organized in 1866, with a capitalof $100,- 
000, the first National bank in Montana, and the United-States 
depository. This pioneer institution met with great prosperity, 
and increased its capital from time to time, until it became the 
strongest financial corporation in the far Northwest, with re- 
sources of nearly $5,000,000. The capital is $500,000, with a 
surplus of $100,000, and undivided profits of $600,000, after 
paying dividends amounting to $272,000. In 1887 it com- 
pleted and occupied a handsome and convenient three-story 
building of granite and brownstone, on the corner of Grand 
and Main Streets. The president of the bank from its foun- 
dation has been the Hon. Samuel T. Hauser, who entered 
Montana as a pioneer in 1862, and served a term as Governor of the Territory, under 
appointment from President Cleveland. 

" Montana, mountainous or full of mountains, is a name no less beautiful than significant. 
From the summit of its loftiest peak — Mount Hayden — may be seen within a day's ride of 
each other, the sources of the three great arteries of the territory owned by the United 
States — the Missouri, the Colorado, and the Columbia. * * * Could we stand on the 
summit of Mount Hayden, we should see at first nothing but a chaos of mountains, whose 
confused features are softened by vast undulating masses of forest ; then would come out 

of the chaos stretches of grassy plains, a glint 
of a lake here and there, dark canons made 
by the many streams converging to form the 
monarch river, rocky pinnacles shooting up out 
of interminable forests, and rising above all, a 
silvery ridge of eternal snow, which imparts 
to the range its earliest name of Shining Moun- 
tains." — H. H. Bancroft's History of IVash- 
higton, Idaho, ami Montana, 




HELENA ; FIRST NATIONAL BANK. 





Coronado's Spanish army 

probably reached the Platte 

Valley in 1541. The abor- 
iginal inhabitants were the 

Pawnees, between the Platte 

and the Republican ; the Mis- 

souris and Otoes, south of 

the lower Platte; the 

Omahas, near the mouth of 

the Niobrara ; and the Sioux, 
in the northwest. These tribes were continually at war 
with each other, and many a merciless raid of Missouris 
swept the Omaha villages, and received retaliation from 
the warriors of the Niobrara ; while the Sioux, with pitiless 
impartiality, slaughtered all their neighbors, and especially 
the Pawnee horsemen. In 1832 the Pawnees defeated the 
Sioux, after a battle waged by 16,000 warriors for three 
days. There were 2,300 Sioux slain, and 2,000 Pawnees; 
and after the conflict, the victors burned 700 of their cap- 
tives alive. 

Nebraska was a part of French Louisiana, and came to 
the United States by Jefferson's purchase. It belonged to 
the District of Louisiana (1804); then to the Territory of 
Louisiana (1805) ; then to the Indian Country (1834) ; and 
then to Nebraska Territory (1854), which also included 
Montana, eaEterri Wyoming, western Dakota, and part of 
Colorado. From this domain eastern Colorado was taken 
in 1861 ; and Montana and western Dakota, and part of 
Wyoming, in 1863. 

In 1805 Manuel Lisa founded, at Bellevue, a trading- 
post for commerce with the Indians ; and the American 
Fur Company, in 1810, established another little fort at the 
same place. Their official. Col. Peter A. Sarpy, located at 
Bellevue in 1824, and became the first permanent white 
settler in Nebraska. Old Fort Kearney was established at Nebraska City in 1847, arid ^^'^' 
Fort Kearney (on the Platte River) in 1848, for the protection of the Oregon Trail. The 
Mormon exodus of 1847, and the great overland migrations, started by the discovery of gold 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at Bellevue. 

Settled in 2810 

Founded by ... . Americans. 
Admitted as a State, . . 1867 

Population in i860, . . . 28,841 

In 1870, 122,993 

In 1880 452,402 

White, 449,764 

Colored, 2,638 

American-born, . . . 3^4,988 
Foreign-born, .... 97,414 

Males, 249,241 

P'emales, 203,161 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), 1,058,910 
Population to the square mile, 5.9 
Voting Population, . . . 129,042 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 108,425 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 80,552 
Net State Debt, .... None. 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . . §185,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 77,510 
U. S. Representatives (in 1893), 6 
Militia (disciplined), . . . 1,344 

Counties, gi 

Post-offices, . . ... 1,127 

Railroads (miles), .... 5,295 

Vessels, 19 

Tonnage, 2,687 

Manufactures (yearly), . $12,627,330 

Operatives 4,793 

Yearly Wages, . . . $1,743,311 
Farm Land (in acres), . 0,944,826 
Farm-Land Values, $105,932,541 
Farm Products (yearly), $37, 708,914 
Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 159,692 

Newspapers, 610 

Latitude 40 ° to 43° N. 

Longitude, . . . 95°23' to 104" W. 
Temperature, . . . — 35° to 107° 
Mean Temperature (Omaha), 49° 



TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS (census of 1890). 

Omaha, 140,452 

Lincoln, 55il54 

Beatrice, 13,836 

Hastings, 13,584 

Nebraska City, 11,494 

Plattsmouth, 8,392 

Kearney 8,074 

South Omaha, 8,062 

Grand Island, 7,536 

Fremont, 6.747 



522 



AGING'S ITAhWfiOOK OF THK UNITED STATES. 




wrn^f^^ 



THE FIRST HOUSE. 



in Califdi'nia, called attcntinn to the Platte country. In 
1850 the Lone-Tree P'erry was established, to carry emi- 
L;rants across the Missouri ; and the next year the ferry- 
man staked off the first claim at Omaha, the town being 
laid out in 1854. After the collapse of the Pike's-Peak 
gold excitement, in 1859, thousands qf weary adventurers 
moved eastward to Nebraska, and opened farms. The 
pioneers wrongly rated the high prairies as sterile, and 
located along the river bottoms, and it was difficult to get 
them out on the uplands. In 1863-4 the railroads began 
to sell their vast grants, and new tides of immigration poured in. Out of a population of 
30,000, Nebraska gave 3,307 soldiers to the Union. The First Nebraska Regiment fought 
for five years in the Ciulf States, Missouri and Nebraska. The Second Nebraska Cavalry 
hunted the Sioux in Nebraska and Dakota. Curtiss' Horse, including four companies, be- 
longed to the Southwestern Army. Companies of Pawnee and Omaha Indians, and of Ter- 
ritorial militia, were sent into the field during the Sioux and Cheyenne invasion of Nebraska, 
in 1864. During the early days the settlers suffered greatly from the forays of the Indians, 
who killed many of the pioneers, and ravaged the remoter valleys. Lincoln became the 
capital in 1867, succeeding Omaha ; and the new Constitution went into operation in 1875. 
Recent legislation points toward abolishing alien ownership of land, and restricting land- 
owner-ship to that in actual use and occupation. 

The Name, Nebraska, is an Indian word, meaning " Shallow Water," and referring 
to the Platte, which Artemus Ward said would be "considerable of a river if it were set up 
edgewise." It is sometimes called The Antelope State, from an old-time dweller on 
the plains ; and also The Blacktvater State, from its streams, darkened by the rich black soil. 
The Arms of the State show a blacksmith at work, between a wheat-sheaf and a tree, 
with a log-cabin and a wheat-field, and a river bearing a steamboat, and a railroad train be- 
yond. The motto is : Equality Before the Law. Congress refused to accept the first 
Constitution of Nebraska, giving the suffrage to white citizens only, and ordered that there 
should "be no denial of the elective franchise * * * * by reason of race or color." 
The Legislature struck out the word "white," the first precedent of the kind. 

The Governors of Nebraska have been: Territorial: Francis Burt, 1854; Thomas 
B. Cuming (acting), 1854-5; Mark W. Izard, 1855-8; William A. Richardson, 1858; 
Samuel W. Black, 1858-61; Alvin Saunders, 1861-7. State: David Butler, 1867-71; 
William H. James, 1871-3; R. VV. Furnas, 1873-5; Silas Garber, 1875-9; Albinus Nance, 
1879-83; J. W. Dawes, 1883-7; John M. Thayer, 1887-92; and James E. Boyd, 1892. 

Descriptive. — There are no mountains in the State, but the undulating .prairies and 
rich alluvial valleys and table-lands form a gradual ascent from the mouth of the Nemaha, in 
the southeast, 860 feet above the sea, to Scott's Bluffs, in the far west, 6,000 feet above the 
sea. Chappell is 5, 702 feet above the sea-level. The surface may be divided into 50 per 
cent, of rolling prairie, 20 of the level table-land of the west, 10 of bluffs, and 20 of valley 
and bottom-land. The streams flow amid strips of woodland, often bounded by rounded 

bluffs, and then by terraces rising to the 



uplands. Along the Missouri the country 
is broken and rolling, and in the west 
there are deep canons ; but over the rest 
111 the State sweep the gentle swells of 
I he prairies, motionless waves of pale 
Ljreen land, meadow-like in their rich 
verdure, and devoid of shrubbery and 
stones. The high uplands are indented 
with basin-like hollows, once the beds of 




THE STATE OF NEBRASKA. 



523 




KEARNEY : CITY HALL 



ponds, aii<l some of them still occupied by l)ri-lit waters. In the west 
the green waves of prairie and bluff sink down into a dead level of table- 
land. The uplands arc overlaid with deep lacustrine deposits, made up 
of finely comminuted silicious matter, abounding in - ,. 

lime and iron, and forming one of the richest soils for 
tillage in the world. Vast natural pastures cover these 
uplands ; and here, in earlier days, myriads of cattle 
from the farther West were fattened, before their de- 
parture for the eastern shambles, or the great packing- 
houses at Omaha. 

The Missouri River, crooked and shifting, forms 
the eastern boundary for 500 miles, from 1,000 to 
-i 000 feet wide, and traversed above Omaha by half a 
dozen Government steamboats a year, bearing military supplies to the remote Northwestern 
posts Its navigation extends 2,000 miles above Omaha. The other rivers contam many 
rapids valuable for water-power, after leaving their upper courses, and entermg the region 
of bluffs The Platte is a broad and shallow stream, fordable at many points, flowing 
around I'arge grassy or wooded islands, and forming the centre of a valley many leagues 
wide It rises amid the snows of the Rocky Mountains, in the North and South Forks, 
which unite at North Platte ; and runs 1, 200 miles eastward to the Missouri. The Elkhorn is 
a marvellously crooked stream, flowing 300 miles southeast to the lower Platte, a rapid river, 
with rich bottom-lands. The Loup is another swift-flowing tributary, 250 miles long, rising 

in the lakelets near the sand-hills. The Republican 
River, in southern Nebraska, has a rich valley, from 
three to six miles wide, and over 200 miles long, famous 
for its pleasant pastoral scenery. The rapid Niobrara 
rises in Wyoming, and flows 300 miles east to the Mis- 
souri, with heavily wooded bottoms. For 180 miles in 
western Nebraska it roars through a canon, between 
precipitous walls of rock. The State has many other 
rivers, like the Salt, the White, the Big Blue, the Little 
Blue, the Great Nemaha, and the Keya Paha. There 
are hundreds of shallow and reedy lakes about the heads of the Elkhorn, Pine, and Loup 
thronged from March till December with geese, ducks, swans, cranes, pelicans, herons, and 
other game-birds, with myriads of grouse on the hills. This region, very attractive to the 
sportsman, is reached from Alliance. 

The great divide, in northern Nebraska, rises from 1,000 feet high at the Missouri to 
3.500 feet high in the west. 

The Bad Lands of Dakota extend into northern Nebraska, with their desolation of water- 
chiselled white rock and clay, resembling ruined cities, and full of fossil remains of rhinocen, 
monkeys, sabre-toothed tigers, colossal turtles, camel-headed hogs, and other miocene mon- 
sters. The chief feature is the long canon of the Niobrara, 
with hundreds of lateral canons, in whose darkness the 
streams rush and roar over rocky channels. In the north 
are thousands of square miles of conical and crater- 
like sand-hills, from 25 to 400 feet high, some of them j " 
anchored by nutritious grasses, and others changing 
their form with every gale. The Bad Lands begin on 
the Niobrara, 90 miles from its mouth, and run west 
for 180 miles, and where they stop the sand-hills begin, 
and have a length of 150 miles, and a width of from 
10 to '25 miles. At Scott's Bluffs the horizontal strata 




PLATTE RIVER, NEAR SILVER CREEK. 




DOUGLAS-COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 



524 



ATINC'S IIANDBOOA' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




OMAHA : Y. M. 



of wliitisli and ycllowish-wliito clays and sandstones have 
been weathered into the forms of domes and towers, castles 
and churches, and many other singular shapes. 

The woodlands of. Nebraska are inadequate, but the 
people take great interest in planting trees, and since the 
prairie-fires have ceased, an interesting progress has been 
made in afforesting the State, fully 700,000,000 trees having 
been planted. The cottonwood is the most abundant variety, 
and the black walnut the most valuable. Pines, cedars, 
maples, oaks, elms, hickories, lindens, locusts, and willows 
are also found. Wild plums, cherries, mulberries, and paw-paws grow everywhere, and 
the grapes sometimes cover whole forests with their luxuriant network of vines. 

The Climate is healthy and invigorating, free from consumption and malarial diseases, 
and full of tonic properties. The winters are brightened by many dry and sunny days ; the 
summers are refreshed by almost constant prairie-breezes and cool, calm nights ; and the 
autumnal season rests under a soft blue haze and mellowed sunshine. What has been the 
most objectionable feature in the climate, the prevalence of high winds at certain seasons, 
is gradually disappearing as the country is settled, and what was once an objection, receives 
hardly a thought. The mean temperature in winter is 20° ; in spring, 47° ; in summer, 72° 
to 76°; in autumn, 49°. About 15 times during the winter the thermometer descends to 
zero, aided by the northwest winds from the Rocky Mountains, but the air is so dry that 

^ the cold brings little discomfort. In the Missouri 

Valley 40 inches of rain fall yearly ; 32 inches, 
100 miles west ; 30 inches, 200 miles west ; and 17 
inches 400 miles west. The rainy season comes 
in early summer, and lasts from four to eight weeks, 
not in continuous rain, but occasional showers — 
just when it is most needed. The increased rain- 
fall is not proved yet (see Greeley's recent report 
on the climate of Nebraska). It has been popu- 
larly claimed, and is probably inferred from the 
known extension of the crop-raising territory over 
regions to the westward, which were until recently 
incapable of producing crops. The true explana- 
tion is probably that formerly the rain falling on the unbroken sod was conveyed over the 
soil to the watercourses, and that now, the sod being broken up, the rain no longer is shed 
as by a roof, but is absorbed by the cultivated fields and retained as in a sponge. It is 
doubtless a question of saving and storing, rather than of increasing the rainfall. 

Farming. — The value of Nebraska's farm-products, corn, wheat, oats, rye, barley, 
flax-seed, sorghum, millet, and broom-corn, passes $60,000,000 a year. The cereal 
crops increased 1,000 per cent, between 1870 and 1880, at which time they amounted to 
88,000,000 bushels. In 1888 the State bore 210,000,000 bushels of cereals (valued at $50,- 
000,000), three fourths of which was in corn, although four fifths of its area is as yet unfilled. 
In 1889 the product was 270,000,000 bushels. There 
are 65,000 farms, and land averages $10 an acre. In 
respect to fruit, Nebraska excels in apples, strawberries, 
cherries, grapes and plums, with peaches south of the 
Platte. There are 4,000,000 fruit trees and 1,300,000 
grapevines. In the eastern counties there are large fruit 
canneries. 

Under the new law extending encouragement by a 
bounty of two cents a pound on beet-sugar, large Lincoln : weslevan university. 




OMAHA : OOUOLAS- COUNTY HOSPITAL. 




TH-E STATE OF NEBRASKA. 



525 



factories have been constructed at Cirand Island and Norfolk, with a joint capacity of from 
600 to 800 tons of sugar-beets a day. They cost upwards of if! i , 000, 000, being fully 
equipped with the latest machinery from Germany. At Grand Island 2,000,000 pounds of 
beet-sugar was made in 1890. This is the initial step taken to render Nebraska a great 
sugar-producing State, its soil being peculiarly adapted to the sugar-beet. 

The prominence of Nebraska as a meat- _ ^ producing State is due to its 



abundant corn, and summer and 
plains of the west. The Ne- 
prices, and afford a wide margin 




winter pasturage, on the 

braska cattle command high 

of profit. The State has 

' 4,700,000 head of live- 

«»A.. stock, valuedat $81,000,000. 



LINCOLN : UNIVERSITY OF NEBRASKA. 



NEBRASKA HALL. 



Dairy products have attained a high value ; and creameries have become one of the prin- 
cipal industries, making the finest butter in the land, and increasing their product each year. 

Much of the great plateau has been converted into stock-farms, the cattle being held 
under fence, or in small "close" herds during the summer, and "hay-fed" during the 
winter. They are turned off the grass as " feeders," and corn-fed and corn-fattened before 
going to market as fat cattle. The "feeders" are shipped to the cattle-markets, Chicago, 
South Omaha, and Kansas City, and are sold to buyers who take them to fatten on corn, 
and return them to the markets from four to eight months later as fat cattle. The old 
" Texas trail," in Nebraska, is abandoned. It would be impossible for a Texan herd to get 
through Kansas into Nebraska, or across western Nebraska, owing to the thick settlement 
of the land. 

The situation of Omaha, in the heart of the corn-producing belt, made it by nature a 
gigantic live-stock market, and in 1884 a strong company of capitalists founded here the 
Omaha Union Stock-Yards, which have developed into one of the chief elements in the 
upbuilding of the city. The original capital of $750,000 was necessarily increased to 
$4,000,000 ; and 200 acres of land in South Omaha are now occupied by the yards, compe- 
tent to take care of 30,000 animals at one time, and traversed by many miles of track, con- 
necting with the great railways centering at Omaha. The three greatest live-stock marts 
of the world are respectively Chi- 
cago, Kansas City, and Omaha. In 
18S9 the receipts were 500, 000 cattle, 
1, 120,000 hogs, 160,000 sheep, and 
7, 500 horses and mules ; and the 
business of 1890 reached almost 
double these figures. Near the 
Stock-Yards several immense meat- 
packing houses have been estab- 
lished, with plants valued at $2, 500,- 
000, and a daily capacity of 12,000 
hogs, 2, 500 beeves, and 1,000 sheep. 
At the Stock-Yards there are hotels, 
banks,' telegraph-offices, and all south omaha the union stock-yards. 




526 



K'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




OMAHA ; BROWNElL HALL. 



facilities for the successful liandling of tlic immense 
quantities of live-stock, hogs, beeves, sheep, horses 
and mules, that are incessantly arriving at these capac- 
ious yards. There is also a thorough Live-Stock Ex- 
change, w^hich is the rendezvous of the large army of 
shippers and buyers of live-stock. 

Coal underlies the eastern counties and the Repub- 
lican Valley, both lignite and bituminous, and furnishes 
fuel for local use. It occurs in thin seams, and hardly 
pays for working. A four-foot seam has lately been 
found at Hubbell, at a depth of 120 feet. There are extensive beds of peat in the west. 
The great salt basin near Lincoln covers a marsh of 200 acres, in which rise numerous saline 
springs, whose waters test 25° to 35° by the salometer. Many quarries of blue and white 
carboniferous and gray magnesian limestone and brown and red sandstone, are worked in 
various parts of the State. 

The Government includes a governor and executive officers, elected every two years ; 
a legislature, meeting every two years ; a supreme court of three justices ; and district and 
county courts. The State House is of Platte- River limestone, handsornely finished inside, 
and crowned by a dome 200 feet high. 

The National Guard has yearly encampments. It includes two regiments of infantry, 
a battery, and a troop of cavalry, wearing the United- 
States uniform. 

The Soldiers' and Sailors' Home, opened in 1888, on a 
domain of 640 acres, at Grand Island, has a large build- 
ing for unmarried veterans, and a series of seven pleasant 
double cottages on five-acre tracts, for men with families. 
The State Penitentiary is a massive stone structure, located 
at Lincoln, in 1869, and holding in duress 400 convicts. 
The Industrial School for Juvenile Offenders occupies a ' 
farm of 220 acres, near Kearney, where 170 children are 
busied in school, workshop and field, and held under fam- 
ily discipline only. The Institute for the Deaf and Dumb 
was opened at Omaha, in 1869, and has 150 pupils. The Institute for the Blind, at Nebraska 
City, has musical and industrial departments. There are large insane asylums at Lincoln 
(400 patients) and Norfolk, and at Hastings (for incurables) ; and the Asylum for Feeble- 
Minded Children and Adults is near Beatrice. The State Home for the Friendless, at Lin- 
coln, has 120 inmates. The Industrial Home, at Milford, has 50 inmates. 

Education. — The common schools are liberally endowed, the fund from land sales 
amounting to $7,000,000, and rapidly increasing. The school-buildings have cost above 
$5,000,000. The average attendance is 73 per cent, of the children of school-age. Many 
nish text-books free. The proportion of illiteracy is smaller than 
» State except Iowa, being but 2. 5 per cent, of the population above ten 
'^ years of age. 

The University of Nebraska opened its doors in 1871, and 
occupies an embowered park at Lincoln. There are 474 
students; 15 in graduate studies, 159 in academic, 76 in 
industrial and agricultural, 138 in the Latin school, and 
166 in the School of the Fine Arts, all of whom are 
taught gratuitously. They include young men and 
women. The former compose a battalion of four com- 
panies and three gun detachments, drilled by a regular- 
OMAHA PUMP-HOUSE, WATER WORKS army officer. The buildings include University Hall ; 




OMAHA ; TRINITY CATHEDRAL. 



districts fur 
that of any 




THE STATE OF NEBRASKA. 



527 




Ur4ION PACIFIC RAILROAD BRIDGE. 



Nebraska Hall, for the Industrial Col- 
lege; the Chemical Laboratory; and Grant 
Memorial Hall, used for the armory, drill- 
hall, and gymnasium. These are all large 
brick buildings. The Agricultural Ex- 
periment Station Farm includes 320 acres 
of rolling uplands, with appropriate houses 
and other buildings. The libraries con- 
tain 12,000 volumes, and the museums 
are large and interesting, with collections of minerals and fossils, and a valuable herbarium. 

Doane College, founded at Crete, in 1872, with 80 students, and Gates College, at 
Neligh, with 18 students, are Congregational schools. Nebraska Central College, at Cen- 
tral City, with 51 students, and the Methodist Episcopal College, at York, with 220 stu- 
dents, are Methodist. Creighton College, at Omaha, is Catholic. Hastings College be- 
longs to the Presbyterians. There are Wesleyan and Campbellite universities near Lincoln. 

Trinity Cathedral, at Omaha, is notable for its beautiful interior, memorial windows, 
chime of bells, and stone deanery. Brownell Hall, a girls' school, and the Child's Hos- 
pital, are also at Omaha. 

The Newspapers of Nebraska include 514 weeklies, 30 dailies, and 18 monthlies. 
Twelve of these are in the German language, and others are in Danish, Scandinavian, Polish, 
and B o h e - w mian. Among them are the Granger, Bee, Bugle, Echo, Guard, Motor, 
Lever, Kal- p eidoscope. Headlight, Quaver, Pickings, Flail, Rustler, Vidette, Signal, 



Vi 



-'ffr rr FF fJJ' 

^^'CJL'>? 1:1:1 






^' 



niu,m 



Nugget, Hub, Locomotive, Quirt, Grip, Quiz, Quill, Helmet, 
Phonograph, Blade, Clarion, Tornado, LLornet, Breeze, and 
LToof and Horn. 

The Omaha Daily Bee is acknowledged to be 
the greatest newspaper between Chicago and San 
Francisco. It is one of the very few great papers 
in America still owned and controlled by its foun- 
^ der, who has continued as its editor-in-chief for 20 

years. By its constant aggressive policy, thorough 
Western character, and energy and enterprise, it 
has grown from a little four-column folio to the 
OMAHA : "THE BEE" BUILDING. proportions of a metropolitan paper, equal to the 

very best in every respect. The Bee was brought into existence in 1 871, through the desire of 
its present owner, Edward Rosewater, to champion an educational bill before the Nebraska 
Legislature, and sprang into popularity unexpectedly. Its founder 
did not contemplate building up a newspaper, but being encour- 
aged by the phenomenal success, continued its publication until 
The Bee was placed upon a firm and enduring foundation. The 
Bee Building, completed in 1889, at a cost of $500,000, occu- 
pies a larger ground area than any other newspaper building in 
America. The two lower stories are of porphyry, with polished 
porphyry columns; and the five upper stories are of chocolate- 
colored obsidian brick. It forms a square of 132 feet on each 
side, enclosing a glass-domed court which lights all the inner 
rooms. The interior is wainscoted with Tennessee and Italian 
marble; the floors are laid in mosaic and encaustic tiling; and 
the finish is in oak. The building is absolutely fire-proof, and 
is in nearly all respects the ideal newspaper headquarters of this 
country. While The Bee has always been a Republican paper, 
and its distinctive policy has been to champion the interests and 




52^ 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




OMAHA 
OMAHA NATIONAL BANK. 



rights of llic producer and bread-winner, as against monopolistic encroacliments, its in- 
rtucnce has been potential in every political campaign during the past i8 years, and its 
steadfast advocacy of the rights of the people has gained for it a position well-nigh impreg- 
nable. For more than ten years past two editions daily have been 
issued. The Sunday Bee was established five years ago. 

Finances. — In iSgo, there were 669 banks and bankers in 
Nebraska. The immense strides made by the West are more 
clearly shown in the strong condition of her banks than in any 
other department of commercial affairs. The prosaic history of a 
bank reflects accurately the rise and progress of a town, and is a 
fair but conservative indication of its possibilities. The story of 
the Omaha National Bank is a shining example of Western enter- 
prise and energy. When the bank opened, in 1866, with a capital 
of $50,000, there were but nine banks and bankers in Nebraska, 
and within 60 miles of Omaha white men had been massacred by 
Indians that very summer. The town was a frontier outpost and 
outfitting point, and its nearness to the gold-fields was evidenced 
by the fact that among the assets of the Omaha National Bank 
that year were $9,000 in gold-dust. In 1866 the deposits of the bank were $130,000; in 
1882, they rose to $2,075,000; and now they reach $6,500,000, with the bank capital ad- 
vanced to $1,000,000. But the live business of a growing country can be better shown by 
the volume of trade in the daily transactions of its banks, or its extended lists of banks 
keeping actual accounts in its money center than by its deposits. The daily transactions of 
the bank in October, 1866, reached $17,173, and in October, 
1890, these figures reached $2,048,194. A line of banks ex- 
tending from Des Moines, Iowa, to Portland, Oregon, together 
with transcontinental points like Salt- Lake City, Butte, and 
Helena, keep their accounts with the Omaha National Bank. 
The records of this bank show that it has upwards of 2,400 
private and 450 bank accounts, while in April, 1867, there were 
only two bank and 219 private accounts. The Omaha Na- 
tional's strength has always been in its careful and conservative 
management, and the policy of "doing a banking business 
only." It has been well officered, by strong men. The late 
Hon. Ezra Millard was the first President, and J. M. Field, 
Cashier. Mr. Field resigning in December, 1866, Hon. J. H. Millard was elected Cashier, 
and in 1884 succeeded to the Presidency. Mr. Millard ranks very high as an able financier, 
and the present strong status of the Omaha National is largely due to his wise and skilful 
management. 

Chief Cities. — Omaha occupies a plateau 80 feet above the Missouri, and 18 miles 
north of the inflowing of the Platte, and has grown from 4,000 inhabitants, in i860, to 
30,518 in 1880, 61,835 in 1885, and 140,000 in 1S90, having a trade of $75,000,000 yearly 
with the mining and farming States. The Omaha & Grant Smelting- Works, the largest 
in America, are here, resolving one fourth of the 
silver of the United States, and great quantities 
of gold. The city has noble public buildings, 
broad avenues, 95 churches, a belt-line of rail- 
road, and 100 miles of motor, cable and horse 
railways in her streets. Among the finest build- 
ings is that belonging to the New-York Life- 
insurance Company. There are immense pork 
and beef packing establishments at South Omaha. 




BEATRICE : 
GAGE-COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 




OMAHA; GOVERNMENT BUIl DING. 



THE STATE OF NEBRASKA. 



529 




M 






OMAHA : NEW CITY HALL. 



Lincoln, the capital and chief railroad-centre, has many elevators for the grain of Ne- 
braska, and large stockyards. Kearney is an important city on the Platte, founded in 1872. 
The water-power, which is expected to make a second Minneapolis here, comes from a canal 
leading from the Platte, 16 miles west, to the bluffs behind the city. a Hastings, in 

the south centre, a solidly-built commercial city, in a rich corn Mk country ; Be- 
atrice, in the southeast, with large quarries ; and Nebraska City, »^ a brisk Mis- 
souri-River port, 26 miles below the Platte, are fast-growing com- Bill munities. 

United-States Institutions. — The military posts in Nebraska 
are Fort Omaha, with ten companies in garrison ; Fort Sidney, five 
companies ; and Forts Niobrara and Robinson, eight com- 
panies each. The headquarters of the Department of the 
Platte is at Omaha. 

The Omaha and Winnebago Reservation cares for 2,400 
Indians, with a school and an industrial boarding-school. 
The Santee Agency, farther up the Missouri, has 1,400 Santee 
Sioux Indians, from Minnesota, on allotted lands. The 
American Missionary Association supports two churches 
here, and the large and efficient Santee Normal Training 
School for 1 50 boys and girls, teaching the English branches, 
military drill, and mechanical work. The Episcopalians have three chapels, with many 
devout Santee communicants. The Sacs and Foxes have a small reservation 
in the southeast, and the Ogalalla Sioux are at Pine Ridge, in the northwest. 
Railroads. — The Burlington & Missouri-River Railroad controls 
2,500 miles in the State. This road has at Lincoln 42 miles of 
side-track, on which 800 men handle from 1,000 to 2,000 cars a day. 
The Fremont, Elkhorn & Missouri-Valley Rr" 
operates over 960 miles of road, giving connection witn 
the northwestern counties. The Union Pacific Railroad 
operates 875 miles of road, opening routes to the Pacific 
Coast and to the Kansas systems ; the Missouri Pacific 
has 400 miles in the State, and gives a short line to Kansas 
City, St. Louis, and the East. 

The Union-Pacific Railroad bridge, at Omaha, built in 
1869-73, and afterwards enlarged, cost about $3,500,000, 
and is an iron structure of eleven spans, each 250 feet 
long. The steel railroad bridge at Nebraska City dates 
from 1887-8; and near it is a singular V-shaped pontoon 
bridge, with steel moving-chains. The fine railway bridges across the Missouri, at Blair 
and Plattsmouth, were built by the Keystone Bridge Company, of Pittsburgh, Penn. The 
last-named is a single-track structure of five spans (1,400 feet) resting on masonry piers, 
and approached by 1,560 feet of iron viaducts. The Blair Bridge was opened in 1883, and 
cost $2,000,000. The great Sibley and Rulo bridges, farther down the Missouri, were 
built by the Edge Moor Company, of Wilmington, Del. 
The eastern and southern parts of Nebraska are thor- 
oughly served by railways, whose lines have also covered 
the centre, and are advancing into the northwest. The 
latter region is already traversed from end to end by the 
great lines leading to the Black Hills and central Wyo- 
ming. The vast areas of sand hills, with their multitudes 
of round tops, from time immemorial a favorite haunt of 
l)uffalo, feeding on their scanty but nutritious grasses, 
have now been invaded by locomotives and ranchmen. 




HASTINGS: 
HASTINGS COLLEGE AND MCCORMICK HALL. 




PLATTSMOUTH I 



B. 4 Q. RAILWAY BRIOGE. 



I 



53° 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



A '|||l 




ni 


»^. 


3 




fe|^.gpB! 


^j 



OMAHA . BEMIS OMAHA 



The Manufactures of Nebraska numbered 1,403 in 
1880, with a yearly product of $12,627,000. They have 
since trebled in number, and quadrupled in output. The 
Bemis Omaha Bag Factory is one of the features of Omaha's 
industries. 

The situation of Nebraska between the parallels of lati- 
tude where the corn and wheat belts overlap each other, 
gives it a remarkable advantage among the Western com- 
monwealths. The enormous production of cereals has been 
uniformly of a high merchantable grade, and the rapid ad- 
vance of the railway systems affords the best facilities for 
transportation. 

Muttering Thunder, an ancient Indian chief, informed Robert W. Furnas that the name 
Maha (applied to his tribe, and spoken by the French traders An Alaha, and by the 
Americans as Omaha) meant "Farthest up the River." It was given to the tribe in refer- 
ence to their place on the Missouri River, as regarded the Otoe and Missouri Indians ; and 
was pronounced O-maw-ha. The pioneer newspaper was the Omaha Arrow, issued in 
1854, from the office of the Council-Bluffs Bugle. The Muscatine Eiicjuirer made merry at 
the expense of the new metropolis, saying: "We learn that this young city contains the 
sum total of six houses. By the time the universal Yankee nation gets across Nebraska, 
but one house will be needed to constitute a city ; and , '. //, 

each squatter will lead a city life." 

In his Universal Geography, Jedediah Morse re- 
marked that "It has been supposed that all settlers 
who go beyond the Mississippi River will be forever lost 
to the United States." Lieut. Pike reported to the 
War Department, that "From these immense prairies 
may be derived one great advantage to the United 
States ; namely, the restriction of our population to 
some certain limits, and thereby a continuation of the 
Union. They will be constrained to limit their extent 
to the West, to the borders of the Missouri and Mississippi, while they leave the prairies, 
incapable of cultivation, to the wandering and uncivilized aborigines of the country." 
Major Long reported that this region bore " a manifest resemblance to the deserts of 
Siberia." The Edinburgh Revietv said: "There lies the desert, except in a few spots on 
the borders of the rivers, incapable, probably forever, of fixed settlements." The North- 
American Review (in 1858) said: "The people of the United States have reached their 
inland western frontier, and the banks of the Missouri River are the shores at the termina- 
tion of a vast ocean desert over 1,000 miles in breadth, which it is proposed to travel, if at 
all, with caravans of camels, and which interpose a final barrier to the establishment of 

large communities, agricultural, commercial or 
even pastoral." 

On these impracticable trans-Missouri deserts 
tiow dwell 5,000,000 happy Americans. The 
122,000 Nebraskans of the year 1870 now num- 
ber 1,100,000, with 120,000 improved farms, 
worth $300,000,000, and nearly all operated by 
owners, and provided with nearly $100,000,000 
worth of live-stock. The net earnings of her 
railways reach $8,000,000 yearly; and her 
_ yearly manufactures exceed $50,000,000. As a 

THE PLATTE RIVER M ssouRi PAciFC RAILWAY dcscrt, Nebraska is not a success. 




~>^'.- 



NEMAHA RIVER, ON THE MISSOURI 
PACIFIC RAILVy^AY. 




J.^- 





H15T0R 

In 1825 forty trappers 
from the Yellowstone, un- 
der the leadership of Jede- 
diah S. Smith of New York, 
followed the sluggish Hum- 
boldt River from its source 
to its sink in the Great 
Basin. Thence across the 
sage-brush plain they jour- 
neyed to the beautiful Walker Lake, an oblong jewel 
flashing in its mountain-hemmed solitude ; thence up the 
Walker River, filing along the canons, leaping the cascades, 
and clinging to the sides of the rifted rocks, they slowly 
climbed the mighty Sierras, until before them the broad 
valleys of California stretched in silent affluence. Ogden 
visited the Humboldt in 1831, Sublette in 1832, Bonneville 
and Kit Carson in 1833; and in 1834 Capt. Bartleson led 
the first company of overland emigrants across the Great 
Basin. In 1843-45 the camp-fires of Fremont gleamed 
along the track of the pioneers of 1825, while the Path- 
finder explored and named the Humboldt and Carson 
Rivers, and Pyramid Lake. 

Nevada is a part of the vast domain which was gained 
from Mexico in 1848, by the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo. 
Prior to 1861 Utah Territory extended to the California 
line, as did the ambitious Mormon " State of Deseret," or- 
ganized in 1849, whose emblem was the industrious honey- 
bee, and the purpose of whose founders was to combine 
their ideas of the Kingdom of God with the development 
of the Mormon community, and to secure to every Saint the 
unrestricted pursuit of large quantities of domestic happi- 
ness. In 1 85 1 the Utah Legislature organized several coun- 
ties along the eastern slope of the Sierras and on the Rio 
Colorado, and until 1 856-7 there were thriving Mormon 
settlements in Carson, Eagle, and Washoe Valleys. 

While Nevada remained a part of Utah, and prior to the 
little or 'no inducement for settlement within her borders, and 



STATISTICS. 



Settled at Genoa. 

Settled in 1851 

Founded by Mormons. 

Admitted to the U. S., . . 1864 

Population, in i860, . . . 6,857 

In 1870 42>49I 

In 1880 62,266 

White, 53,566 

Colored, 8,710 

American-born, . . . 36,613 
Foreign-born, .... 25,653 

Males, 42,019 

Females, 20,247 

In 1890 (U. S. census), . 45,761 
Population to the square mile, 0.6 
Voting Population (in 1880), 31,255 

Vote for Harrison (1888), 7,229 

Vote for Cleveland (1888), 5,326 

Net Public Debt None. 

Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . . . $25,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 110,700 
U S. Representatives (1893), i 

Militia (Disciplined), . . . 565 

Counties, 14 

Post-offices, 156 

Railroads (miles), .... 925 

Manufactures (yearly), $1,323,000 
Farm Land (in acres), . 530,862 

Farm-Land Values, $5,408,325 

Average School Attendance, 5,149 

Newspapers, 25 

Latitude, 35° to 42° N. 

Longitude, . . . 114° to 120° W. 
Temperature, . . . — 40° to 115" 
Mean Temperature, . . . 55° 



TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Virginia City, 8,511 

Carson City, 3.950 

Reno, 3,563 

Eureka, 1.609 

Austin 1,215 

Tuscarora, 1,156 

Winnemucca, 1,037 

Pioche 676 

Mason Valley, 577 

Dayton 576 



discovery of silver, there was 
although the overland army of 



532 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



'^.^ 




LAKE TAHOE. 



gold-seekers made an almost continuous line across the 
continent, the first mail line between Sacramento and Salt- 
Lake City (750 miles) was not established until 185 1. A 
single mule sufficed for the transportation of the monthly 
mail. This primitive conveyance for carrying letters was 
confiscated by a Shoshone Indian, who at the same time 
added the scalp of the carrier to his collection of curiosi- 
ties. In winter a Norwegian, known far and wide as 
"Snowshoe Thompson," carried the mails across the 
Sierras, and his ten-foot snow shoes were gifted with the 
departmental requirements of "certainty, celerity and 
security." Crandall's Pioneer Stage Line from Placer- 
ville to Genoa began running in 1857 ; and the first over- 
land mail stage arrived in 1858. In i860 the Pony Ex- 
press was established. 

In 1858 the black lumps which bothered the few gold- 
washers in Gold-Hill Gulch and the canon at the base of Mount Davidson, were assayed by 
two miners named Grosch, who possessed some knowledge of metallurgy, and pronounced 
to be rich sulphurets of silver. The following year the rush to Washoe fairly commenced. 
Early in 1861 Congress organized the Territory of Nevada, out of Utah, west of 150°. 

In the vigorous and picturesque language of the Hon. Thomas Fitch, of Reno: "It 
is difficult even for one who was himself a part of the times of which he \vrites to give 
an adequate idea of life in Nevada in 1862-4. Over 50,000 of the brightest, bravest, 
most generous, enterprising and energetic men on earth, the Knight Paladins who challenged 
the brute forces of Nature to combat, the soldiers who, possessed with the aura sacra fames, 
faced the storm and the savage, the desert and disease, swarmed around the base of Mount 
Davidson and reached out to Aurora, to Reese River and to the mountains of the Humboldt. 
Crawling like huge flies over the bald skulls of lofty mountains, plodding across alkaline 
deserts which pulsed with deluding mirages under the throbbing light, camping amid rocks 
worn out in the conflicts of chaos, and thrown away upon the world, smiting with pick and 
hammer the adamantine doors of the earth's treasure-chambers, these pioneers engaged in 
their self-imposed task. Readier with rifle or revolver than with scriptural quotation was 
the Nevadan of- those days, and readier still with his "coin-sack" at the call of distress. 
Under the blue shirt might be found sometimes a graduate of Yale, and sometimes a fugitive 
from Texas. No man assumed to be better than his neighbor, and no man conceded his 
inferiority to anybody. Freiberg graduates and sheep-herders, divinity students and Cornish 
miners, farmer boys and ex-judges of the Supreme Court were all treasure-seekers together, 
and a blow of a pick might make or unmake fortunes, and equalize the beggars and the 
princes of this Aladdin's cave. Some found fortunes and some found unmarked graves 
upon the hillsides, and many have since become rich or renowned in other fields, but not one 

among them all will not remember with affection ■ 
the days way back ' in the sixties, ' when he spun 
the woof of rainbows in the Sage-brush State." 
By 1 86 1 quartz mills were erected and ma- 
chinery transported across the mountains, and 
the white metal commenced to pour in vast and 
increasing volume into the channels of the 
world's commerce, sustaining the credit of the 
Nation in the hour of its peril. 

During the recent civil war the sentiment 
of the people of Nevada was overwhelmingly 
unionist. The Territory raised six companies 




PYRAMID LAKE. 



THE STATE OF NEVADA. 



533 




of infantry and six companies of cavalry, num- 
bering i,i8omen. Since the depreciation 
of silver, Nevada has lost greatly in popula- 
tion, and seems to present the strange anomaly 
of a dying American State. Its main hope 
seems to be in the remonetization of silver, 
and a consequent new life in the mining dis- 
tricts, or else in the development of great 
irrigation systems. 

The Name of the State comes from its 

■ r ,TT /• • T^ , • SODA LAKE. 

magnihcent Western frontier. Prom their 

resemblance to the serrated chain of Spanish Granada, these mountains are called the Sierra 
Nevada, or "Mountains Snowy," although the snow-fall, except on the high ranges, is not 
great, and thermometrical reports show that Nevada possesses about the same winter cli- 
mate as Baltimore, and a summer climate analogous to that of Nova Scotia. The popular 
names of Nevada are The Silver State, from its chief product : The Sage-Briish State, 
because the valleys and hills are covered with the wild artemisia ; and The Battle-Born 
State, commemorating its admission to the Union during the Civil War. 

The Arms of Nevada include a railway train in a mountain gorge ; a plow, sheaf and 
sickle ; two mountains, with a quartz-mill, a tunnel to the silver leads, a miner running out 
a car-load of ore, and a team loaded with ore for the mill. In the background are snowy 
mountains, with the sun rising. The motto is : All for our Country. 

The Governors of Nevada have been : Territorial: Jas. W. Nye, 1861-4. State: Jas. 
W. Nye (acting), 1864 ; Henry G. Blasdel, 1864-71; L. R. Bradley, 1871-9; J. H. Kinkead, 
1879-83; J. W. Adams, 1883-7; C. C. Stevenson, 1887-91 ; and Ross K. Colcord, 1891-5. 

Descriptive. — Nevada occupies a part of the great interior basin between the Rocky 
Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, in which the rainfall is generally confined to the months 
between November and May, thus rendering agriculture (except in the narrow valleys along 
the streams) uncertain, and therefore unprofitable, save where facilities exist for irrigation. 
Nearly a hundred mountain ranges traverse the plateau, some of them reaching a length of 
roo miles and a height of from 9,000 to 12,000 feet, and generally trending north and south. 
These ridges are covered rather sparsely with pinon or nut-pine, and occasional groves of 
white-pine, with some oak and cedar and locust ; and along the streams maybe found cotton- 
woods. The ranges are from six to 20 miles wide, and long valleys of similar width separate 
them, occasionally broken by solitary buttes, or expanding into broad basins covered with sage 
brush, sand-grass, cacti, mesquite and greasewood. There are millions of acres of sage- 
brush land, the soil of which is rich in plant-food and abounding with elements of fertility, 
but which, in the absence of facilities for water storage and distribution, have always been 
classed as arid and useless. The Great Basin is supposed to have once formed part of a sea 
of several hundred thousand square miles in area, and when the ocean water drained off, the 
great plateau remained, 4, 500 feet above the tide. The Colorado River flows along the south.- 
eastern border for 150 miles, a rapid and powerful stream, half a mile wide, and navigable 
under favoring circumstances from Rioville to the Gulf of California. The El-Dorado 
Caiion is twelve miles long and 200 to 660 
feet deep, and the great river rushes through 
it with tremendous speed. Aside from the 
Rio Virgen and two creeks (tributaries of 
the Colorado) in the southeast, and the 
Owyhee and Bruneau (tributaries of the 
Snake River) in the northeast, all the rivers 
of Nevada lose themselves in the sandy soil 
of the 'valleys, or empty into sinks, some of 




WINNEMUCCA LAKE. 



534 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




HUMBOLDT MOUNTAINS GLACIER CANON 



which are stagnant and alkaHnc, while others remain 
fresh and sweet, being probably drained by under- 
ground rivers. Thus the rapid Truckee, flowing from 
Lake Tahoe and Lake Donner, high up in the Sierras, 
discharges into Pyramid Lake after a course of 97 
miles, through spruce and pine forests for half the dis- 
tance and through meadow lands for the remainder. 
Walker River rushes cold and clear from the Sierra, 
and feeds the mountain-walled Walker Lake, 30 miles 
long and five to 15 miles wide (350 square miles) and 
abounding in fish. Carson River issues from lakes 
in the Sierra, and winds 200 miles, part of the way through canons and pine forests, and 
part of the way over sage-brush plains, to the Carson Sinks, which are ordinarily 25 by ten 
miles in area, and in the wet season achieve a length of 80 miles. The Humboldt rises 
in the Goose-Creek Range, and flows southwesterly 350 miles, descending 3,000 feet and 
continually shrinking in volume, until it reaches its sink, called Humboldt Lake, 30 by ten 
miles in area. In high water Humboldt Lake runs into the lower Carson Sink, through a 
long slough. Reese River, in central Nevada, is swallowed by the thirsty land after a 
course of 140 miles ; Quinn River after 80 miles, and the 
Amargosa River after 150 miles. 

Pyramid Lake is 35 by twelve miles in area, 4,000 feet abo\e 
the sea, and in many places of great depth. It is surrounded 1)\ 
high mountains, and marked by a pyramidal rocky island 600 feet 
in height. Near this lake occurred the disastrous battle of 
May, i860, where an attacking force of 105 Nevada volunteeis 
was defeated, with a loss of half their number, by the Pah-Ute 
Indians. Lake Winnemucca (also a sink), 18 by eight miles 
in area, lies east of Pyramid Lake. In high water Frankhn 
and Ruby Lakes are united, and form a brackish reservoir 1 5 
miles long. Washoe Lake lies close to the Sierra, and covers an 
area of 18 square miles. Its waters are shallow and slightly 
alkaline, though it is filled with small fish called chubs. One 
third of the beautiful Lake Tahoe lies in Nevada, the remainder 
being within the borders of California. 

The unalkaline lakes and streams contain many trout, and some of them have also been 
stocked with catfish, perch, bass, terrapin, salmon and salmon trout. Around them beavers 
and otters dwell ; and over the plains roam myriads of jack-rabbits and coyotes, and a few 
lynxes and cougars, and black, cinnamon and grizzly bears. Antelopes and mountain- 
sheep haunt the remote highlands ; and elk, deer, and moose are sometimes seen. Grouse, 
or sage-hens, are abundant, wild turkeys are sometimes found on the mountains, quail are 
plentiful, and the sinks and lakes swarm with wild geese, ducks, plover and every variety 

of water-fowl. 

North of Pyramid Lake is the Black-Rock 
Desert, or Mud Lakes, a tract of nearly 1,000 
square miles, in summer a barren level of alkali, 
and in winter covered in places with shallow water, 
riiere are many other "mud" lakes in Nevada, in 
basin-shaped valleys of impervious stiff clay. 

The Climate is remarkably dry and healthful, 

and meat may be cured in the open air. The 

clouds from the Pacific are broken upon the moun- 

HUMBOLDT VALLEY. tains, which receive a much larger rainfall than the 




IN THE HUMBOLDT MOUNTAINS. 




535 




HYDRAULIC MINING. 



THE STATE OF NEVADA. 

valleys ; and fogs are unknown. In summer the 
thermometer rarely rises above 95°, and the nights 
are cooled by mountain breezes. The winter tem- 
perature hardly ever reaches zero on the plains. In 
the east cloud-bursts are of frequent occurrence; in the 
west strong southwest winds prevail. In the south the 
mean annual temperature is 70^, with a yearly rain- 
fall of five inches ; in the north and west the tempera- 
ture is 55°, and the rainfall 15 inches. On the plains 
mirages often spread their delusive pictures, and sand- 
storms and whirling sand pillars sometimes bring dis-- 
comfort to the traveller. Pulmonary and bronchial 
troubles and asthma are almost unknown, for the air is so 
pure and dry that it acts as an antiseptic. 

Farming. — By the construction of storage reservoirs in 
natural mountain basins, and of irrigating canals, Nevada may 
be made a prosperous agricultural State; but much of the land 
is now unoccupied, and to the superficial observer arid. In 
the irrigable valleys of the west now under cultivation, barley, wheat and oats are the 
chief cereal crops. The root vegetables, especially potatoes, are prolific in yield. Honey 
is made in considerable quantities, and the dairy products are growing in extent. There 

are 300,000 apple trees, and a great number of almond, 
pear, peach, and plum trees, all of which bear excel- 
lent fruit. Berries and small fruits grow luxuriantly. 

There are 300,000 sheep and 200,000 cattle in 
Wvada, in a climate free from all blizzards and pesti- 
nt heats. San Francisco is the market for the local 
:'cf and mutton. 
Minerals. — Nevada has 120 surveyed localities of 
mineral springs, hot and cold, salt and borax, sulphur 
and iron, some of them containing infusions of arsenic, 
mercury and other minerals as well. Steamboat Springs, 
eleven miles south of Reno, are a series of hot foun- 
tains, with puffs and jets of steam continually leaping from crevices in the rocks. The 
temperature is 212°. At Elko the water of the hot springs has a singular resemblance in 
taste to chicken broth. At Carson, at Lawton's, and on the Truckee River and at other 
points large swimming-baths of stone have been constructed. In Smoky Valley a caldron- 
like boiling spring rushes from the earth. Hot Creek is the steaming outlet of a group of 
thermal springs in Nye County. Hinds' Hot Springs, ten miles from Wellington's, the hot 
springs east of Wadsworth, and the Golconda, Kyle's, Bruffy's and Shaw's hot springs are 
well known to Nevadans. Many of these properties are improved by hotels and cottages 
for health-seekers, which receive patronage from well-to-do citizens of Nevada. 

Bullion is the chief product of Nevada, which has 
sent out over $600,000,000 in silver and gold. In 
1877-8 alone the product was $87,000,000. The 
bullion produced on the Comstock is in proportion 
of value about two thirds of silver and one third nf 
gold. Above $350,000,000 have been shipped from 
the Comstock lode, of which the famous California 
and Consolidated-Virginia mines yielded $130,000,- 
000. After 1875 the mines became less productive. 
The ords are chlorides and sulphurets. The Sutro 




HUMBOLDT RANGE : ARCH/EAN BLUFFS. 




536 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




PLIOCENE BLUFFS. 



Tunnel, 1 2,000 feet long, drains the mines 
to a depth of 1,600 feet. The hoisting 
works over the mines are the largest and 
most complete in the world. After the 
apparent exhaustion of the Comstock 
bonanzas, thousands of men left Nevada. 
In 1886-8, new and valuable deposits 
were uncovered, and improved methods 
were devised, which permitted the work- 
ing of the low-grade ores. The bullion- 
product of the State was $9,000,000 in 
88. The deposits of gold, silver, copper 



1886, $10,200,000 in 1887, and $12,306,000 in iJ 

and lead in the interior mountains have been mined with success. 

Salt appears in many localities, and near the Rio Virgen forms a ridge two miles long 
and 100 feet thick, of pure, hard and transparent salt. There are thousands of acres of 
salt beds, of great depth, and white as snow. The soda lakes of Churchill County produce 
great quantities of soda. Borax is produced in the same vicinity, and in Esmeralda County 
is found in inexhaustible marshes and lakes. The mineral wealth of Nevada includes the 
pure sulphur of Humboldt, coal of Pancake Mountain, cinnabar of Washoe, copper of 
Lander and White Pine, antimony, arsenic, cobalt and nickel of Churchill ; nitre, isinglass, 
manganese, alum, kaolin, iron and gypsum of Lyon ; mica of Elko, and graphite of Grimsby. 
The Governor and executive officers are elected every four years. The Legislature 
contains 18 four-years' senators and 36 two-years' assemblymen. The Supreme Court has 
three elective justices ; and there are nine elective district judges. The State House is at 
Carson City, in Eagle Valley, and contains the State Library, of 22,000 volumes. It stands 
on a shady grassy square of four blocks. The finest building in Nevada is that belonging 
to the United States, at Carson City. The State Prison is near Carson ; the Insane Asylum 
(163 inmates), at Reno; and the State Orphan Home, at Carson City. The State school- 
fund exceeds $1,100,000. The Nevada State University, founded in 1874, is at Reno, and 
has seven teachers and 115 students. The Agricultural Experiment Station is at Reno. Ne- 
vada contains 9,000 Indians, one tenth of whom can speak English; 4,500 are Pah-Utes, 
300 Piutes, 4,200 Shoshones, and 500 Washoes. One third of them are on the Pyramid- 
Lake, Walker-River, Duck-Valley and Moapa-River Reservations. 

The Railroad System of Nevada began in 1867, when the first locomotive entered 
the State, running from the California side to Crystal Peak. The value of Central Pacific 
Railroad property in Nevada is $50,000,000, the length being 448 miles. The railway 
from Carson City to Virginia City was built in 1868 and extended to Reno in 1871-2. The 
Nevada Central, from Battle Mountain to Austin, 93 miles, dates from 1879-80. The 
Eureka & Palisade line is 90 miles long. The Cai'son & Colorado Line runs from near 
Carson 298 miles south to Keeler ; and the Nevada & Oregon road runs from Reno. 

The Chief Towns, near the foot of the Sierra, are Virginia City, with its great gold 

and silver mines ; Carson City, the capital, 
and an important supply-depot ; and Reno, 
at the junction of three railways, with flour- 
ing-mills, saw-mills, and reduction-works. 
Virginia City and Gold Hill had 35,000 
inhabitants in 1880, with metropolitan in- 
stitutions, but subsequently fell away. Vir- 
ginia City is 6,339 fss' above the sea, Bel- 
mont is 8,092 feet. Treasure Hill 9,077 and 
Barcelona City, 10,480. Austin and Eureka 
are important silver-mining towns. 





New Hampshire's abor- 
igines were the friendly 
Penacooks, dwelling along 
the Merrimack ; the Coos, 
along the Connecticut ; the 
Pequawkets, on the upper 
Saco ; the Ossipees ; and 
several smaller tribes, con- 
federated against the Mo- 
hawks, under the wizard-sachem Passaconaway, whose son 
and successor, Wonnolancet, kept most of them neutral dur- 
ing King Philip's War. The gallant English sailor, Martin 
Pring, explored the silent coast in 1603, followed by Cham- 
plain and Capt. John Smith. In 1622, the Plymouth Com- 
pany (of England) granted the territory of Laconia, from 
the Merrimack to the Kennebec, to Sir Ferdinando Gorges 
and Capt. John Mason. The first settlements were made 
by adventurous fishermen and traders, sent out by English 
patrons, at Cocheco (Dover) and Little Harbor (near 
Portsmouth), in 1623. Exeter was founded, in 1638, by the 
exiled John Wheelwright ; and the first house at Hampton 
rose in 1636. In 1641, these four colonies were united to 
Massachusetts, and in 1679, New Hampshire became a 
royal province. John Mason's heirs and their claims 
caused annoyance, until 1746, when twelve Portsmouth gen- 
tlemen bought them out. The colony suffered under mer- 
ciless Indian forays, from soon after King Philip's War, 
when five towns were attacked in succession, down nearly 
to the Revolution. Dover, Durham, Exeter, Rye and all 
the outlying settlements met the fury of the pagan assaults, 
which were oftentimes reinforced by detachments of French 
and Canadian troops. Hundreds of settlers were slain, and 
many others passed into a dreary captivity, in Canada ; but 
naught availed to check the advance of the pioneers, who 
moved forward into the Lake-country, and through the mountain-passes, and occupied the 
fertile valley of the Connecticut. In the Louisburg and Ticonderoga campaigns. New Hamp- 
shire's' sons distinguished themselves on many a hard-fought field. The State sent 18,289 



STATISTICS. 



Settled at Dover. 

Settled in 1623 

Founded by ... . Englishmen. 
One of the Original 13 States. 
Population in ib6o, . . . 326,073 

In 1870, 318,300 

In 1880, 346,991 

White, 346,229 

Colored 762 

American-born, . . . 300,697 
Foreign-born, .... 46,294 

Males, 170,526 

Females, 176,465 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), . 376,530 
Population to the square mile, 38.5 
Voting Population (1880), . 105,138 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 45,728 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 43,456 
Net State Debt, . . $2,639,706.55 
Real Property, . . . $117,000,000 
Personal Property, . $130,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 9,305 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 2 

Militia (Disciplmed), . . 1,105 

Counties, 10 

Post-ofifices 538 

Railroads (miles) 1,145 

Vessels, 05 

Tonnage, 10,148 

Manufactures (yearly), . $73,978,028 

Operatives, 48,831 

Yearly Wages, . . . $14,814,793 
Farm Land (in acres), . .3,721,173 
Farm- Land Values, . $75,834,389 
Farm Products (yearly) $13,474,330 
Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 43,484 

Newspapers, 152 

Latitude, . . 42°42'3o" to 45"'i8' N. 
Longitude, 7o°43'4o" to 72*33' W. 
Temperature, . . . — 49' to 940 
Mean Temperature (Concord), 46° 

TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Manchester 44,126 

Nashua I9.3U 

Concord 17,004 

Dover, 12,790 

Portsmouth, 9,827 

Keene 7,44^ 

Rochester, 7,396 

Somersworth 6,207 

Laconia 6,143 

Claremont 5, 565 

Exeter 4,234 



538 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



soldiers into the Revolution, of whom 12,496 were in the Continental Line. In the recent 
great civil war she was represented by 20 regiments and twelve companies and batteries, 
numbering 33,937 men, of whom nearly 5,000 died in the service. Between 1850 and 1890 
the losses by the war and by emigration checked the development of the State, and left 
much of the hill-country in a desolate and deserted condition. In the meantime the pros- 
perous manufacturing cities along the Merrimack have risen to great power and promi- 
nence ; and the State has become celebrated also for its beautiful summer-resorts. 

Thoreau thus pictures the scenery of the Merrimack River : "At first it comes on mur- 
muring to itself by the base of stately and retired mountains, through moist, primitive woods 
whose juices it receives, where the bear still drinks it, and the cabins of settlers are far be- 
tween, and there are few to cross its stream ; enjoying in solitude its cascades still unknown 
to fame ; by long ranges of mountains of Sandwich and Squam, slumbering like tumuli of 
Titans, with the peaks of Moosilauke, the Haystack, and Kearsarge reilected in its waters ; 
. . . to Plum Island, its sand ridges scalloping along the horizon like the sea-serpent, 




WHITE-MOUNTAir 



SCENERY AND THE PROFILE HOUSE. 



and the distant outline broken by many a tall ship, leaning, still, against the sky. -. . . 
Standing at its mouth, looking up its sparkling stream to its source, — a silver cascade 
which falls all the way from the White Mountains to the sea, — and behold a city on each 
successive plateau, a busy colony of human beavers around every fall." 

The Name of the State was given by its first proprietor, Capt. John Mason, for many 
years governor of South-Sea Castle, on the coast of English Hampshire (Hants). Its pop- 
ular pet name is The Granite State, referring to its noble rocky peaks. 

The Arms of New Hampshire, adopted in 1784, show a rising sun and a ship on the 
stocks, with American banners displayed. 

The Governors since 1 754have been: Benning Wentworth, 1754-67; John Wentworth, 
1767-75 ; Meshech Weare, 1776-85 ; John Langdon, 1785-86; John Sullivan, 1786-8 ; John 
Langdon, 1788-9; John Sullivan, 1789-90; Josiah Bartlett, 1790-4; JohnTaylor Oilman, 
1794-1805; John Langdon, 1805-9; Jeremiah Smith, 1809-10; John Langdon, 1810^12; 



THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



539 




Wm. Plumer, 1812-13 and 1816-19 ; John 
Taylor Oilman, 1813-16; Samuel Bell, 
1819-23; Levi Woodbury, 1823-4; David 
Lawrence Morrill, 1 824-7 ; Benjamin 
Pierce, 1827-28; John Bell, 1828-9; 
Matthew Harvey, 1 830-1 ; Joseph M. 
Harper, 1831 ; Samuel Dinsmoor, 1831-4 ; 
Wm. Badger, 1834-6; Isaac Hill, 1836-9 ; 
John Page, 1839-42; Henry Hubbard, 
1842-4; John H. Steele, 1844-6; An- 
thony Colby, 1846-7; Jared W. Williams, 1847-9; Samuel Dinsmoor, 1849- 
52; Noah Martin, 1852-4; Nathaniel B. Baker, 1854-5; Ralph Metcalf, 
1855-7; Wm. Haile, 1857-9; Ichabod Goodwin, 1859-61 ; Nathaniel S. Berry, 1861-3; 
Joseph Atherton Gilmore, 1863-5; Frederick Smyth, 1865-7 ; Walter Harriman, 1867-9; 
Onslow Stearns, 1869-71 ; James A. Weston, 1871-2 and 1874-5 ; Ezekiel A. Straw, 1872- 
4; Person C. Cheney, 1 87 5-7; Benj. F. Prescott, 1 877-9; Natt Head, 1879-81 ; Chas. H. 
Bell, 1881-3; Samuel W. Hale, 1883-5 ; Moody Currier, 1885-7; Chas. H. Sawyer, 1887-9; 
David H. Ooodell, 1889-91 ; Hiram A. Tuttle, 1891-3. 

Descriptive. — New Hampshire lies between Maine and Vermont, with Massachusetts 

on the south, a wilderness fronting on Canada, 
and beaches facing the Atlantic. Its middle 
part is serrated by the White Mountains, cov- 
ering I,3CX) square miles, in several short ranges, 
largely clad with primeval forest, the main peaks 
rising above the timber-line, and crowned with 
storm-worn rocks. The magnificent scenery of 
this highland country has for generations been 
admired by myriads of tourists from all over the 
FRANcoNiA NOTCH, WHITE MouNTAiNb world. Scvcral railways traverse its noble 

notches ; and great hotels and summer-resort villages, Bethlehem, North Conway, Jackson, 
lefferson, and Campton, have grown up in the vicinity. There are seven peaks above 
5,000 feet high, 22 above 4,000, and scores of lesser elevations. Mount Washington, 6,293 
feet high, and overlooking thousands of square miles, has a carriage-road ascending its huge 
rocky slopes, and a large hotel and other buildings on its summit. The first cog-rail moun- 
tain-railway in the world was constructed up this peak in 1 868-9. The powerful little 
humpbacked locomotives push trains up a height of 3,730 feet in a course of less than three 
miles, the highest grade being 13^ inches in a yard. In the Presidential Range, "the Crown 
of New England," tower the majestic peaks of 
Mounts Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, 
Monroe, Jackson and others. They were called by 
the Indians Waiimbek Methna ; and by the colo- 
nists, who explored them as early as 1642, 
The Crystal Hills. The White-Mountain 
Notch is a wonderful defile of several 
miles in length, cut deep through these 
highlands, and giving passage to the turn- 
pike and the Maine Central Railroad, on 
land to Montreal and the West. This 
most magnificent scenic routes in America. newfound lake. 





its way from Port- 
forms one of the 
The Franconia 



Range culminates in Mount Lafayette, 5,299 feet high; and in the Franconia Notch, 1,200 
feet above the road, is the famous Profile, a massive stone face 40 feet high, which has 
figured'in New-England art and literature for nearly a century. Moosilauke (4,810 feet), 



54° 



A'JNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Chocorua (3,508), Kearsarge (2,943), Grand Monadnock (3,169), and other outlying 
mountains are notable features of the landscape. The beautiful pastoral valleys of the Saco, 
Androscoggin and Pemigewasset penetrate the great mountain-mass for 
many leagues, affording natural avenues for railways, and 
jewelled with pleasant hamlets. 

Another marked feature of New Hampshire, and one 
of its foremost beauties, is an extensive and varied system 
of lakes, rich in wooded islets, and mirroring the crests 
of famous mountains. The foremost of these is Lake 
Winnepesaukee, covering 72 
square miles, and adorned by / ^■-/^.y.-.M^^^^'^^''- 




ISLES OF SHOALS : WHITE ISLAND. 



274 islands. The Ossipee, 





MANCHESTER : 

1. AM08KEAG FALLS, 

2. POST-OFFICE. 

3. SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS' MONUMENT. 



Sandwich and Bel- 
knap ranges look down on this lovely crystal sheet. 
Near by is Asquam Lake, unrivalled for its mountain- 
guarded beauty. Sunapee (11 square miles). New- 
found (8), Umbagog (18), Ossipee (7), Spofford, Mas- 
coma, Massabesic, and other lakes are popular resorts 
in summer. Sunapee Lake, i,loo feet above the sea, 
under the forest-clad peaks of Kearsarge and Sunapee, 
abounds in islands and beaches, summer-villages and 
camps, and a great variety of valuable fish. 

The Connecticut River, New England's foremost 
stream, rises in a group of lakelets near the Canadian frontier, 
and runs south for 450 miles through a valley of extraordinary 
beauty and fertility. The Pemigewasset and the Winnepe- 
saukee unite to form the Merrimack, which flows for 78 miles 
in New Hampshire and 35 in Mas- 
sachusetts, turning more mill ma- 
chinery than any other river in the 
world. The Piscataqiia is a broad, 
deep and swift estuary, eleven miles 

long, entering the sea at Portsmouth, where it forms one of the 
best harbors on the American coast, with 40 feet of water at low 
tide, and a rocky bottom. On the Maine side, at Kittery, is the 
United-States Navy-Yard. The other notable streams are the 
Upper and Lower Ammonoosuc, Ashuelot, Androscoggin, Con- 
toocook, Saco, and Suncook. These rivers are mainly mountain-born, and therefore subject 
to sudden floods. Their waters are singularly pure, and abound in salmon, trout, bass and 
other fish, millions of which are distributed every year, by the State, for development. 
The Plymouth and Sunapee hatcheries have sent 
out vast numbers of brown, rainbow and Loch- 
Leven trout, the choicest species of the fish. 
The State has 325 fish and game wardens, 
whose vigilance has caused the remoter towns 
to become populated with deer. 

Broad expanses of primeval forest still en- 
wrap the lonely northern counties with great 
pines, oaks, birches and other trees. Bears and 
wolves and moose roam through these unbroken 
woods, which are rarely traversed, save by ex- 
plorers and hunters. The lumber business has 



ISLES OF SHOALS : 
STAR-ISLAND CHURCH. 




NEAR HANOVER. 



THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



541 




SUNAPEE LAKE, 



GLEN-ELLIS FALLS, WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



attained considerable importance in the north, and the mills at Whitefield and Zealand, 
Berlin, Livermore and Lancaster have many miles of steam-railways, bringing out of the 
forests over 40,000,000 feet of logs yearly. 

The sea-coast of 18 miles includes the beaches of Hampton and Rye, well-known as 
summer-resorts, backed by the long levels of the tidal marshes. Six miles off-shore, in 
the open sea, rise the rocky little Isles of Shoals, discovered byChamplain in 1605, occupied 
by villages of fishermen for over 
two centuries, and now the seat 
of large summer-hotels. They 
cover 600 acres, and partly per- 
tain to Maine.' Steamboats run 
out hither several times daily, 
in summer, from Portsmouth. 
New Hampshire has several 
mineral springs, with attendant 
hotels and summer clientages. 

The choicest scenic localities amid the White and Fran- 
conia Mountains are occupied by large and luxurious sum- 
mer-hotels, which are filled during the summer by guests 
from all parts of the Union. None of these delightful 
pleasure-resorts occupies a higher place in the public esteem than the famous old Profile 
House, the largest summer-hotel in New England, whose proprietors, Taft & Greenleaf, 
have been connected with it for 30 consecutive years. Just where the Franconia Notch 
reaches its northern end, and before the road begins its steep descent to the valley, there is a 
beautiful little plateau, 2,000 feet above the sea, surrounded on three sides by the stupendous 
cliffs of Mount Lafayette and Cannon Mountain. Here, between the translucent Echo Lake 
and Profile Lake, rise the white walls of the Profile House, fronting on broad lawns and 
flanked by handsome cottages. The wonderful Profile, or Old Man of the Mountain, un- 
doubtedly the most remarkable rock-formation in this country, if not in the world, is seen 
from near the hotel. All the surrounding region abounds in charming drives and rambles. 
Nowhere else in the New-Hampshire mountains is there such a museum of unrivalled curi- 
osities as that which may be explored in these two leagues of the great Franconian pass. 

The Government includes a biennially elected governor and council and executive 
officers ; and the General Court of 24 senators and over 300 representatives. The Supreme 
Court has seven justices. The State House, at Concord, was built in 1816-9, and enlarged 
in 1865. It is in classic architecture, of Concord granite, and stands in a pleasant park. 
The Doric Hall contains the battle-flags of the volunteer regiments of 1861-5. The Council 
Chamber has portraits of all the governors since 1786, and there are many large portraits 
of Revolutionary generals and other ancient worthies. The State Prison at Concord was 
established in 1812, and has no convicts. The Asylum for the Insane (founded in 1842) 
is also at Concord, and has 340 inmates. The Industrial School for boys and girls is near 
Manchester. The Orphans' Home and School of Industry occupies the ancestral Webster 

farm, near Franklin, and is generously supported 
by private contributions. 

The National Guard includes three regiments 
of infantry. There is also a troop of cavalry and 
a battery. The State camp-ground, where these 
troops are quartered and drilled for seven days 
\carly, is on the bluffs opposite Concord. 

Education. — The Normal School, at Ply- 
mouth, with nine instructors and 275 students, is 
NEW CA&TLL . u^u „ti<i..vh,H i.iAhbioN. the head of the State school-system. The old 




54^ 



A'/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CONCORD : 
STATUE OF DANIEL WEBSTER, 



district-schools gave way, in 1885, to the town system, intended to 
afford better facilities to students in remote neighborhoods. The 
State spends over $700,000 a year in educating its young people. 
Nearly one tenth of the children are in Catholic parochial schools. 
There are also 53 academies, with 3,112 pupils. Dartmouth Col- 
lege, at Hanover, on the Connecticut River , was founded in 1 769 by 
the Rev. Eleazer Wheelock, as a school for missionaries and Indians. 
It received 44,000 acres of land from the Province, and large gifts 
from English philanthropists, among whom was Lord Dartmouth. 
The huts of green logs which at first served as the college-halls have 
been replaced by ten buildings, of which Wilson Hall and the Rollins 
Chapel are notable for their beautiful architecture. The College 
Park covers 34 acres. Daniel Webster, Rufus Choate, George 
Ticknor, George P. Marsh, Salmon P. Chase and Thaddeus Stevens 
were among the 7,000 graduates. The college has 229 students, be- 
sides 67 in the Chandler School of Science, 68 in the Medical School 
(founded in 1797), lo in the Thayer School of Civil Engineer- 
ing, and 33 in the College of Agriculture and the Mechanic 
Arts, which occupies a contiguous farm of 360 acres One of 
the most attractive features in Hanov cr is the new Mary Hitchcock 
Memorial Hospital, erected in 
1890 by Hiram Hitchcock, of 
New York. 

Phillips Exeter Academy, 
founded in 1 78 1, is one of 
the most noted and most ad- 
mirably conducted 
college preparatory 
schools in America, 
and has graduated 
more than 6, 000 pu- 
pils, including a long 
professional and 
and 325 students, 
elm-lined campus. 




DARTMOUTH COLLEGE 



ROLLINS CHAPEL. 



list of famous statesmen, bankers, and 
business men. It has ten instructors 
with fine buildings ranged along an 
Two hundred and seventy-one of the 
students come from 35 outside States and Territories, besides a number of foreign countries; 

The Robinson Female Seminary, also at Exeter, was en- 
dowed with |!250,ooo, and opened in 1867. St. Paul's 
School, two miles from Concord, is an Episcopal institution 
of rare efficiency, with a seven-years' course, preparing boys 
for college or business. It was opened in 1856. Chief 
among its buildings is the large and beautiful collegiate 
chapel, in late decorated Gothic, with oaken roof, stained 
windows, and carved stalls and screens. The Holderness 
School for Boys, another Episcopal institution of high rank, 
has its seat near Plymouth, in the idyllic Pemigewasset Val- 
ley. The New-Hampshire Conference Seminary and Female 
College is a Methodist school, established in 1845, at Tilton, 
eighteen miles from Concord. There are good academies at 
New Hampton, New Ipswich (Appleton), West Lebanon 
(Tilden), Mont Vernon, Meriden (Kimball Union), Atkin- 
son, Northwood, New London, Wolfeborough, and other 




HANOVER : FACULTY AVENUE. 



THE STA TE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



543 




PHILLIPS EXETER ACADEMY. 




Hanover: hitchcock memor'al hospital 



villages. The chief public libraries are those of Dart- 
mouth College, 65,000 volumes ; Manchester City Li- 
brary, 30,000; State Library, 20,000; Portsmouth 
Athenaeum, 16,000; Concord Public Library, 12,000; 
and the New- Hampshire Historical Society, 10,600. 

The newspapers of New Hampshire include 1 1 dailies 
and 86 weeklies. There are 13 monthlies. The Gazette, 
uf Portsmouth, was established in 1756. 

Religious. — The foremost religious denomination 
is the Congregational, the old historic church of New 
England, which has here nearly 200 churches and 20,000 
members. There are i lo Methodist churches, with 13,000 members. The Baptists and the 
Free Baptists have each nearly 9,000 members. The Episcopal diocese of New Hampshire 
numbers 28 parishes, with 2,000 communi- 
cants. The Catholic church has more ad- 
herents than any one of the Protestant 
denominations, largely among the French- 
Canadians and the Irish, in the manufac- 
turing cities. There are Shaker communi- 
ties at Canterbury and Enfield. 

Chief Cities. — Manchester avails it- 
self of the enormous water-power of the 
Amoskeag Falls, on the Merrimack, and yearly manufactures 70,000 bales of cotton into 
cloth. Concord is a pleasant little city on the Merrimack, with handsome public buildings. 
Nashua, also on the Merrimack, is an important manufacturing city and railroad centre. 
Portsmouth, the only sea-port of the State, and for nearly a century its capital, abounds in 
quaint old buildings and interesting traditions, and is one of the most delight- 
ful cities on the Atlantic coast. Dover, ten miles above, on the 
Cocheco, has several large factories. 

The Railroads had 92 miles of track in 1844. 
Since that date upwards of 1,200 miles have been built, 
at a cost of $35,000,000. The Boston & Maine Rail- 
road crosses the seaboard section of the State with 
several lines, reaching also inland to Lake Winnepe- 
saukee and the White Mountains, and through the 
pleasant hill-country towards Dublin and Keene. 
The route from Boston to Montreal ascends the Merri- 
mack Valley to Franklin, and then diverges towards 
Vermont. The Maine Central line, from Portland to Lake Champlain, traverses the heart 
of the White Mountains ; and the Grand Trunk line, from Portland to Montreal, winds 
through the mountain-land by the Androscoggin Valley. 

The railway up Mount Washington was the first mountain-railway in the world, and is a 
wonderful triumph of engineering. The line of the Maine Central Railway, through the 
Notch, is carried along galleries cut into the sides of the mountains, at 
a vast elevation above the valley, and commands amazing views of the 
Presidential Range. The most impressive of 
these is from near the Frankenstein Trestle, 
whence the majestic Mount Washington is seen 
at the head of the lonely glen. The Maine Cen- 
tral finished a new line in 1 89 1, from near the 
Twin-Mountain House and Whitefield, to the 
lofty 9ummer-resort village of Jefferson, and concord : railway station. 




CONCORD, ST. -PAULS SCHOOL CHAPEL 



^^^^ 








544 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SUGAR-RIVER BRIDGE. 



thence northward across the Grand Trunk route, 
and through the Upper Coos country, connecting 
with the line for Quebec. The railway bridges 
over Sugar River and Salmon-Falls River are 
notable constructions of the Boston Bridge Works. 
Commerce. — The maritime commerce of 
New Hampshire, centering at Portsmouth, in 
ancient times included large shipments of lumber 
and fish to England and the West Indies, but 
the wars of 1776 and 1812 destroyed this indus- 
try. The State has coasting and fishing fleets and 
25 small steamboats. 

The Finances of New Hampshire stand in a 
favorable condition, the yearly treasury receipts exceed $1,300,000, of which $500,000 comes 
from the State tax levy assessed upon the towns, $540,000 from the tax placed upon all 
savings-banks deposits, and $240,000 from the railroad tax. The average rate of local taxa- 
tion is $1.48 on $100. According to the new census the net debt of the State has decreased 
from $3,574,846 in 1880 to $2,639,707 in 1890. Among the 
financial institutions of New Hampshire, the First National 
Bank of Concord occupies the position at the head of the list. 
Chartered in 1864 with a capital of $150,000, it has always 
paid good dividends to its stockholders, and accumulated dur- 
ing the first 20 years of its existence a surplus equal to its 
capital. Under the prudent and conservative management of 
its officers, and especially the well-directed efforts of William 
F. Thayer, the president of the bank, it promises long before 
the expiration of its charter to again double the market-value 
of its stock. The bank enjoys the business of corporations 
and individuals who seek the services of a safe and reliable de- 
pository, and also markets a choice line of investment securities 
for investors. The First National Bank outgrew its original 
building, and in 189 1 occupied new and more commodious quarters, better adapted to its 
needs and the convenience of its customers. 

Insurance was the subject of State legislation in 1885, as a result of which 58 outside 
companies concertedly withdrew from business here, the State aiming 
to compel the companies to pay the full amount insured under all policies 
in case of total loss, regardless of the value of the property. Their risks 
were largely taken by home companies, which built up a valuable local 
business, insuring over $50,000,000 worth of property in a single year. 
The representative insurance corporation in this State is the New- 
Hampshire Fire-insurance Company, under the presidency of ex-Gov- 
crnor James A. Weston, and secretaryship of John C. French, and 
holding a foremost rank among the strong, solid and successful Ameri- 
can companies. The headquarters is in the company's own fire-proof 
building at Manchester ; and agencies are in successful operation in 
many cities of the Middle and Western States. The liabilities are in 
small risks, well scattered ; and the assets rest in undoubted securities, 
and real-estate mortgages, guarded by directors of acknowledged ability 
and integrity, and including some of the foremost men of the State. 
This company was incorporated in 1869, and has a capital of $600,000, 
gross assets of $1,500,000, and a surplus, as regards policy-holders, 

MANCHESTER : ,. „ ■^', .,- ., „, 

H FIRE-INSURANCE CO exccedmg $1,000,000. It has paid over $3,000,000 ni losses. Ihe 




CONCORD : FIRST NATIONAL BANK. 





SALMON-FALLS BRIDGE. 



THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHTRE. 

risks in force amount to about $75,000,000. The 
singular position assumed by this State with re- 
gard to outside insurance companies, differing so 
far from the conduct of other commonwealths, 
has been rightly questioned, especially so as she 
has no other solid corporation like the New- Hamp- 
shire Fire-insurance Company, to afford her citi- 
zens absolute protection against loss by fire. 
There are now 12 stock fire-insurance companies, 
and 10 cash-mutual and 25 assessment-mutual 
companies, with $71,000,000 of risks in force in the State, and $104,000,000 outside. The 
factory-mutuals protect $42,000,000, and $8,000,000 remain on unexpired outside policies. 
Agriculture is not at its best in this land of eight cold months. The high sandy plains 
along the Merrimack, and some of the lofty uplands, are unfavorable for farmers, but the 
alluvial valleys of the Connecticut and other streams produce good crops. Of late years 
much attention has been paid to dairy farming, and 1,500,000 pounds of butter are sent out 
from the creameries annually. The breeding of fine horses and cattle is a feature of recent 
introduction. One hundred and twenty-two granges are in operation, with 8,500 members. 
There are usually three or four months of sleighing, with deep and fructifying snows, 
especially in the north, and a clear, bracing air. The month of June is full of beauty, 
and adorns the country with floral splendor. The Indian summer, in September and October, 
is a delightful period of mild temperature and sweet air, with bright and luminous skies. 

Manufactures employ a capital of above $50,000,000, and pay yearly wages to the 
amount of $15,000,000. The first cotton-mill dates from 1804, and since that time the 
industry has developed amazingly. Between 1850 and 1890 the invested capital increased 
300 per cent., and the value of the yearly product increased 320 per cent. There are great 
mills at Manchester, Nashua, Dover, Laconia, Suncook and other towns, all of which also 
have prosperous and varied manufacturing interests. 

The Amoskeag Manufacturing Company at Manchester, the largest cotton-manufac- 
turing company in New England, com- 
menced operations about 50 years ago. 

It has twelve large and complete mills, 
besides dye-houses, store-houses, boiler- 
houses, machine-shop, and foundry, cov- 
ering over 60 acres of floor-space. The 
mills give employment to more than 7,000 
people, and have a yearly pay-roll of nearly $3, - 
000,000. They contain 250,000 spindles and 
9,000 looms, and produce daily 300,000 yards of 
cloth, during the ten hours that the mills run 
daily. These fabrics are sent to all parts of the 
Republic, and to many remote lands beyond the 
ocean. To make this quantity of cloth requires 
900,000 miles of yarn daily, and consumes 60,000 bales of cotton a year. Over 700 electric 
lights are employed in lighting the mills. The 48 boilers burn 20,000 tons of coal a year 
in furnishing steam. The chimney used with these boilers is 264 feet high. The leading 
products of the Amoskeag Company, which have an international reputation, are ginghams, 
tickings of all grades and qualities. Denims, shirtings and cotton flannels. The A C A 
tickings and the blue Denims have been standard goods all through the United States for 
more than half a century, and the Denims have also been largely exported to the West 
Indies. The manufacture of ginghams was commenced in 1867 by the Amoskeag Com- 
pany, which is now the largest producer of these goods in the country. They are made in 




MANCHESTER: AMOSKEAG MANUFACTURING COMPANY. 



546 A'JNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STA TES. 

a large variety of styles and coloring, about 5,000 new patterns being brought out yearly. 
The Amoskeag Company, of which Thomas Jefferson Coolidge has been treasurer since 
1876, has a capital of $4,000,000, with a value of about $8,500,000, and is one of the 
greatest and most successful industrial enterprises in all New England. 

One of the bright and busy manufacturing towns in New Hampshire is Great Falls, in 




GREAT FALLS : THE GREAT-FALLS MANUFACTURING COMPANY. 

a romantic situation on the Salmon-Falls River. When the Great-Falls Manufacturing 
Company received its charter, and began operations, in 1823, the only buildings were a saw- 
mill, a grist-mill and two houses. Since then, a town of several thousand inhabitants has 
risen here, and the enormous mills front a wide area of carefully kept lawns and groves. 
The buildings extend nearly two thirds of a mile in length, and are substantially built of 
brick. The machinery is run by water-power. Excepting only the Amoskeag Company, 
the Great-Falls Manufacturing Company have the largest cotton-mills in New Hampshire. 
The paid-in capital is $1,500,000; and the mills contain 126,000 spindles and 3,000 looms, 
employing 1,600 persons, and producing every year 30,000,000 yards of sheeting, valued at 
$2,000,000. The present treasurer is J. Howard Nichols. Office, Exchange Building, 
Boston. The company's goods are sold by Minot, Hooper & Co., of Boston and New York. 
The Cocheco Manufacturing Company is located in the city of Dover, Strafford County, 
on the Cocheco River, whence it derives a portion of its power. It succeeded the Dover 
Manufacturing Company, which was organized in 1812, the charter being drawn up by 
Daniel Webster ; and was the parent of the surrounding cotton-factories in New Hampshire 
and Maine, as Waltham in Massachusetts was of those in Lowell and Lawrence. In 1827 
Eben Francis, Wm. Appleton, Amos Cotting, and others of Boston, organized the present 
corporation, continuing the manufacture of yarns and print-cloths, and also established the 
print works one of the first in the country. The plant has been gradually increased and 
improved until now it turns out about 50,000,000 yards of printed cotton goods, and 

manufactures 30,000,000 yards of 
gray cloths annually. The product 
was for many years confined to mad- 
der prints, which are well known 
throughout the Union, but it is now 
as varied as that of any print works. 
The capital stock is $1,500,000, and 
1,650 operatives find employment, 
with an annual pay roll of $740,000. 
Lawrence & Co. of Boston, New 
York, and Philadelphia are the sell- 
ing agents for the products of the 
Cocheco Mills. 




DOVER : THE COCHECO MANUFACTURING COMPANY 



One of the most interesting of American industrial establishments is the Abbot-Down- 
ing Company, whose Concord coaches and carriages are known the world over for their 
excellent materials and thorough construction. The output of these works includes light 
and heavy express-wagons and trucks, coaches and stages of various kinds, hotel omnibuses, 
ambulances, hook-and-ladder trucks, and other vehicles. This great industry was founded 




CONCORD : THE ABBOT-DOWNING CO. 



THE STATE OE NEW HAMPSHIRE. 

by Lewis Dcwning of Lexington, Mass., who 
opened a small wheelwright shop at Concord, 
in 1813. In 1826 he secured the services of J. 
Stephens Abbot, a journeyman coach-body- 
maker from Salem, with whom, two years later, 
he organized the copartnership of Downing & 
Abbot. In 1S47 they separated, and formed in- 
dependent firms ; and in 1865 they were reunited 
as Abbot, Downing & Co., which absorbed a 
large rival house in 1873 ^""^ became the Abbot- 
Downing Company. Their wagons are in use on 
the plains of Australia, the rural roads of Japan, 
and amid the Rocky Mountains, as well as in all 
parts of the Atlantic States. The first coaches in California and Australia came from this 
ancient establishment, and the great twelve-horse coaches running to the Transvaal gold- 
fields, in South-Africa, are made here. The company employs 300 men, and the works cover 
five acres of oround. The manifold operations of this corporation reach every continent, and 
are ably directed by Lewis Downing, Jr., president, and Edward A. Abbot, treasurer. 

Parallel with the great coach-building industry ol 
Concord has risen the closely related business of har- 
ness-making, which was brought to perfection by the 
cumulative skill of generations of intelligent work- 
men. Foremost in this trade stands the corporation 
of James R. Hill & Co., which was founded in 1840 
by Mr. Hill, and has for many years been under the 
presidency and general management of George H. 
Emery. In their spacious works nearly 300 men are 
employed in making the well-known "Concord Har- 
ness," for freight and express wagons, coaches and 
carriages, and all manner of uses for business and 
pleasure driving. There is hardly a region in the world where their product is not used ; 
and their awards of merit, at the Philadelphia, Sydney, Melbourne and other expositions con- 
tain the most distinguished compliments. The chief traits of excellence are the sensitively 
careful choice of leather, the superior grade of workmanship in making, and the intelligent 
adaptation of the harness to every purpose. 

Paper-making has always been one of the prominent and successful industries of New 
England, whose exquisite products in the way of 
surface-coated goods and cardboards have driven 
European goods out of the American market. The 
only New-Hampshire corporation in this line of 
labor is the Nashua Card & Glazed Paper Com- 
pany, whose handsome and spacious new factory is 
stocked with a great variety of costly improved and 
patented machinery. The yearly product is above 
io,cxx),ooo pounds of cardboard and glazed papers, 
lithographic board and paper ; and at times the de- 
mand for these articles is so great that the works 
are compelled to run at night. The operations of 
mixing and applying colors, by hand or machinery, are done with marvelous precision ; 
and all the details of the manufacture are carried forward with equal accuracy and trained 
skill. The mill is lighted by electricity and heated by steam. The Nashua Card and 
Glazed Paper Company's trade is national in its extensive line of customers. 




COMCORD : JAMES R. 



HARNESS CO. 




NASHUA ; NASHUA CARD & GLAZED PAPER CO. 




IITE-MOUNTAIN FKEE2ER CO. 




CONCORD . INSANE ASYLUM 



avjVG's handbook of the united states. 

An interesting industry, and one especially appro- 
priate to this cool northern land, is represented by the 
White-Mountain Freezer Company, the foremost con- 
cern in this industry in the United States, whose ex- 
tensive works are at Nashua, a pleasant city on the 
Merrimack River, about 40 miles northwest of Boston. 
The plant covers five acres, with several ranges of 
buildings, convenient to lines of railway track ; and 
a large force of skilled workmen are constantly em- 
ployed in the manufacture of this popular freezer. 
The goods are sold at all the principal cities of this country, and thousands are exported 
annually. The features of especial merit are : A covered gearing ; heavy waterproof 
tubs ; cans of best tin-plate ; and beaters of malleable iron and tinned, whereby no 
zinc surfaces are in contact with the cream, thus avoiding the danger of zinc poison so 
common by using freezers having galvanized — fzinc-coated) — dashers. Above all, the 
White-Mountain is the only 
freezer in the world having the 
triple motion, with which a finer, 
smoother cream is produced than 
in any other machine ever in- 
vented. 

Minerals. — The Franconia- 
Iron Works began operations in 
181 1, but have been closed for 
many years. Gold has been mined 
at Lisbon, tin at Jackson, lead at Shelburne, zinc at Madison, copper at Lyman, iron at Bar- 
tlett and Tamworth, and graphite at Nelson, in small quantities. The Grafton mica, 
Lebanon slate, Acworth feldspar, East-Haverhill lime, and Francestown soapstone have 

been quarried for many years. Over i , ocxd 
men are engaged in the granite-quarries, 
nearly half of them near Concord, whose 
handsome fine-grained and light-colored 
stone is used in all the Atlantic cities. 

With its many attractions of moun- 
tains, lakes and sea-coast, and its cool 
northern summers, this State has become 
a vernal pleasure-park for myriads of 
vacation-tourists. In this regard, rather 
than for the majesty of its scenery (now 
that Wyoming and Colorado are so accessible). New Hampshire merits its old title of "the 
Switzerland of America." The favorite season is July, August and September, though 
June and October are also included in the pleasure-time. Many hundreds of farmers' 
houses are kept open for boarders, and the amount 
spent each year by summer-visitors is above $4. - 
000,000. 

" Land of the cliff, the stream, the pine. 
Blessing, and honor, and peace be thine ! 
Still may the giant mountains rise, 
Lifting their snows to the blue of June, 
And the south wind breathe its tenderest sighs. 
Over thy fields in the harvest moon " 

— Edna Dean Proctor. mount Washington, from maine central r. r. 




GORHAM : GATEWAY TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 






H15T0RY. 

The first European to 
look upon the low sandy 
shores of New Jersey was 
Henry Hudson, whose little 
ship Half-Moofi cast anchor 
inside of Sandy Hook, in 
1609. By virtue of his dis- 
coveries, patronized by the 
Dutch East - India Com- 
pany, the people of the Netherlands laid claim to a vast 
and scarcely defined tract of land, embracing the eastern 
portion of New York, and all of New Jersey. Incited by 
the obtaining of so valuable a possession, colonies were sent 
from Holland, and within a decade settlements arose in the 
vicinity of Jersey City (then called Bergen), the main trad- 
ing-post being on the site of New York, At about the 
same time, Godyn and Bloemart purchased Cape May from 
the Indians. Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, desir- 
ing to found a New Sweden in the western world, also sent 
colonies to Delaware. Some of these adventurers passed 
over into "West Jersey, occupying territory claimed by the 
Dutch. This action led to a series of disputes, and finally 
Gov. Stuyvesant appeared in the Delaware, and secured the 
submission of the Swedes, in 1655. 

For years all this territory, the Dutch Bergen, the pat- 
roonship of Cape May, and New Sweden alike, had been 
claimed by the English, by right of Cabot's discovery, by 
Ralegh's patent, and by the patents of the London and 
Plymouth companies, not to mention Ployden's more or 
less fabulous expedition and the claims of a few New-Eng- 
landers on the Delaware. So, in 1664, King Charles 
granted to the Duke of York a great tract of land, from 
Cape May to Nantucket, the Duke, in turn, granting New Jer- 
sey to Lord John Berkeley and Sir George Carteret, giving 
them the absolute estate and title to the land, and also the 
Philip Carteret was the first governor, and named the capital 
George Carteret. The settlers ^t Newark were Connecticut 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at Bergen. 

Settled in 1627 

Founded by . . . Dutchmen. 
One of the original 13 Stai es. 
Population, in i860, . . . 672,035 

In 1870 906,096 

In 1880 1,131,116 

White, 1,092,017 

Colored, 39,099 

American-born, , . . 909,416 
Foreign-born, .... 221,700 

Males 559,922 

Females 571,194 

In 1890 (U. S. census), . 1,444,933 

Population to the square mile, 151. 7 

Voting Population, . . . 300,635 

Votef or Harrison (1888), 144,344 

Vote for Cleveland {1888), 151,493 

Net Public Debt 

Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . . $688,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 7,815 
U. S. Representatives (in 1893), 8 
Militia (Disciplined), . . 4,295 

Counties 21 

Post-offices, 859 

Railroads (miles), .... 2,047 

Vessels, 1,142 

Tonnage, 91,996 

Manufactures (yearly), $254,375,236 

Operatives, 126,038 

Yearly \Vaf;es, . . . $46,083,045 

Farm Land (in acres), . 2,929,773 

Farm-Land Values, $190,895,833 

Farm Products (yearly) $29,650,756 

Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 135,187 

Neu'spapers, 353 

Latitude, 38°55'5i" to 4i''2i'i9" N. 
Longitude, 73''53'5i" to 7.5°33'3" W. 
Temperature, . . . —10° to 101° 
Mean Temperature (Trenton), 53° 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). 

Newark, 181,830 

Jersey City, 163,003 

["aterson, 78,347 

Camden .58,313 

Trenton 57,458 

Hoboken, 43,648 

Elizabeth, . 37,764 

Bayonne 19,033 

Orange 18,844 

New Brunswick 18,603 



power to rule and make laws. 
Elizabeth, after the wife of Sir 
Puritans. A few years later, 



550 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF I'lIE UNITED STATES. 




MORRISTOWN 
MOUNT HOPE 



WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS. 



the proprietaries divided their principality on a line from Little Egg Harbor to the Dela- 
ware (below Burlington), East Jersey pertaining to Carteret, and West Jersey to Berkeley. 
Getting little gain and much contention out of his half, the latter sold it in 1674 to a syn- 
dicate of Quakers for ;,^i,ooo ; and numbers of these friends of peace came over from Eng- 
land and Scotland, and settled about Salem and Bordentown, and subsequently in East 
Jersey. In 1682, after Sir George Carteret died, William Penn and his Quaker 
friends bought East Jersey, and it became a refuge for the oppressed 
of their sect. The troubles in the local government finally con- 
strained the proprietaries to surrender their sovereign rights to 
Queen Anne ; and Lord Cornbury in 1702 became Governor of 
New York and New Jersey, each Province having a 
separate assembly. In 1738 New Jersey secured a 
separate administration ; and its last royal Governor 
was William Franklin, the son of Benjamin Franklin. 
Although remote from the scene of hostilities, and 
hampered with a large Quaker population. New 
Jersey furnished for each of the twelve colonial 
campaigns against the French and Indians from 500 
to 1,000 soldiers, whose blue uniforms gave rise to the name "Jersey Blues," especially 
applied to the battalion serving in King George's War (1745-8). 

This lowland Belgium between the capital of the United States and the headquarters of 
British military power in America naturally became the scene of some of the chief cam- 
paigns of the Revolution. But one colony suffered as much in the war, yet New Jersey 
sent 10,726 soldiers into the Continental Line, besides raising large militia forces, which at 
times formed the chief strength of the patriot army. On Christmas night, 1776, Washington 
with 2,400 men and 20 guns crossed the Delaware in a wild storm of sleet and snow, and 
through the floating ice, and at daylight surprised the 1,200 Hessian troops in garrison at 
Trenton, capturing 918 men and the colors of three German battalions. A few days later, 
Washington skilfully evaded Lord Cornwallis, and defeated the 17th, 40th, and 55th British 
regiments at Princeton, bombarding and taking the college, then held by the enemy, and cap- 
turing the Royal artillery, and then safely retiring to the hill-country about Morristown. Fred- 
erick the Great pronounced Washington's Trenton-Princeton campaign "the most brilliant 
in the annals of military achievements." In 1777 Fort Mercer, at Red Bank (on the Dela- 
ware), garrisoned by the 1st and 2d Rhode-Island regiments, was bombarded by Count 
Donop, who led 1,200 Hessian infantry to storm the works, and suffered defeat, losing 
his own life and the lives of 400 of his men. At the same time, the brave Rhode-Islanders 
beat off and partly destroyed a British fleet on the river. The battle of Monmouth, June 
28, 1778, was caused by Lafayette, Wayne and Lee attacking the rear-guard of Sir Henry 
Clinton's army, retreating to New York. The American van suffered rout, but the British 
grenadiers gave way before Knox's batteries and Wayne's riflemen. An imposing granite 
monument, ornamented with bronze bas-reliefs, was erected on the battlefield in 1884. The 
cantonments of the army in the winter of 1779-80 
were at Morristown, and the house then occupied by 
Gen. Washington and his wife is now sacredly pre- 
served, as public property. The ancient boards of 
proprietors of East Jersey and West Jersey retain 
their proprietary headquarters at Perth Amboy 
and Burlington, 

There were a dozen or more tribes of Indians in 
New Jersey — those north of the Raritan being of 
the Minsi Delawares, and those south of the Raritan 
pertaining to the Delawares. They were treated 




BARNEGAT LIGHT, 



THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 



551 




WOODBURY : 
OLD COURT HOUSE. 



with justice, and so the province escaped the bitter Indian wars that devastated other regions. 
The last remnants of these aboriginal tribes left the State in 1802, and moved to Oneida 
Lake, and subsequently to the shores of Lake Michigan. In 1832, being then reduced to 40 
petoins, they sold their reserved rights of hunting and fishing in unenclosed New-Jersey 
lands, to the State Legislature, and so disappeared from history. 

Slavery was one of the institutions of the Jerseys for over a 
century, and the Africans were usually immured at Perth Amboy 
when first landed from the slave-ships. In 1820 an act was passed 
giving freedom to all children born of slave-parents, after certain 
dates, and by 1840 there were but 674 slaves remaining, although 
in 1800 there had been 12,422. 

The Constitution of 1776 allowed universal suffrage, which was 
practiced until 1807, women voting whenever they chose. 

During the civil war. New Jersey sent into the National army 

and navy 88,305 men, being 10,057 in excess of her quota, and 

within 10,501 of her entire militia. They were among the bravest 

and best disciplined troops in the army. 

The State is represented in the National Gallery of Statues at Washington by a marble 

statue of Richard Stockton, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, and a bronze statue 

of Gen. Philip Kearny, one of the most gallant generals in the Secession War. 

The Name of the State, Nova Ccesarea, or New Jersey, commemorates the gallant 
defence of the Isle of Jersey, in the English Channel, by Sir George Carteret, who beat 
off the Parliamentary forces during the civil war. New Jersey is sometimes called The 
Garden State, on account of the large variety of its 
floral and agricultural products. Joseph Bonaparte, a 
Corsican lawyer, was made by his younger brother, 
Napoleon Bonaparte, King of Naples (1806-8) and 
then King of Spain (1808-13). After Waterloo, he 
fled to America, and bought an estate of 1,400 acres 
at Bordentown, where he dwelt until 1832, entertain- 
ing many illustrious Frenchmen. The Philadelphians 
were rather jealous of the good luck of New Jersey 
in securing such distinguished residents, and called the 
State Spain, with good-humored raillery reading it out 
of the Union. Hence arose the gibe that this domain is in some sense a foreign land ; and 
the people were long called foreigners and Spaniards, since their social leader was the 
King of Spain. The term State of Cafiiden and Amboy was also used in the days when the 
Camden & Amboy Railroad influence held a dominating power. 

The Arms of New Jersey bear three ploughs, on a silver shield, denoting the agricultural 
prosperity of the State, with female figures of Liberty and Ceres as supporters. The crest 

is a horse's head, indicative of stock-raising. The motto 
Liberty and Prosperity has sometimes been added, but 
without official authority. This seal was adopted for 
the State in the year 1776. 

The Governors (after the Dutch and Swedish rules) 
included seven of East Jersey and eight of West Jersey 
(1665- 1 703), eleven of New Jersey and New York 
united (1702-38), ten of New Jersey as a Province, and 
the following-named of the State : Wm. Livingston, 
1776-90; Wm. Paterson, 1790-2; Richard Howell, 
1792-1801; Joseph Bloomfield, 1801-2 and 1803-12; 
John Lambert, (acting), 1802-3; Aaron Ogden, 1812-3; 




NEWTON ; FARMING SCENE. 




NAVESINK : 
HICHUAND UGHTS 



SANDY HOOK : 
aiONAU STATION. 



552 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEWARK : KEARNY MONUMENT. 



Wm. S. Pennington, 1813-5; Mahlon Dickerson, 181 5-7; 
Isaac H.Williamson, 1817-29; Garret D. Wall, 1829 (declined); 
Peter D. Vroom, 1829-32; Samuel Lewis Southard, 1832-3; 
Elias P. Seeley, 1833; Peter D. Vroom, 1833-6; Philemon 
Dickerson, 1836-7 ; Wm. Pennington, 1837-43 ; Daniel Haines, 
1843-4 and 1848-51 ; Chas. C. Stratton, 1845-8; Geo. F. Fort, 
1851-4; Rodman M. Price, 1854-7; Wm. A. Newell, 1857-60; 
Chas. S. Olden, 1860-3; Joel Parker, 1863-6; Marcus L. 
Ward, 1866-9; Theodore F. Randolph, 1869-72; Joel Parker, 
1872-5; Joseph D. Bedle, 1875-8; George Brinton McClellan, 
1878-81; George C. Ludlow, 1881-4 ; Leon Abbett, 1884-7; 
Robert Stockton Green, 1887-90; and Leon Abbett, 1890-3. 

Descriptive. — New Jersey is a peninsula, bounded by the 
Delaware, the Hudson and the ocean ; and may be divided into the northern mountains, the 
central hill-country, and the southern pine-forests, sandy plains and marshes. Lying be- 
tween New York and Philadelphia, the chief cities of America ("like a cider-barrel tapped 
at both ends," as Benjamin Franklin said), market-gardening and agriculture are the profita- 
ble pursuits of one sixth of its inhabitants; and its 120 miles of sandy sea-fronting beaches 
afford fashionable and crowded summer-resorts for these metropolitan hives of people. The 
shape of New Jersey has been likened, by its geological survey, to that of a bean. From 
Cape May to its northern point the distance is 167! miles. Its greatest breadth is 59 miles; 
and from Bordentown to South Amboy it is but 32 miles across. 
There are only three States smaller in area. The Kittatinny (or 
Blue) Mountain extends for nearly 50 miles across the north- 
western corner of the State, near and parallel with the Dela- 
ware River, which forms the boundary. It runs from Mt. Tam- 
many, at the Delaware Water Gap (1,479 f^et high), to the peak 
of High Point (1,799 feet), where it joins the Shawangunk Range. 
The steep eastern declivities are carefully cultivated, and lead up to 
a line of forests, crowning the wall-like range with sombre color. 
On the east opens the long Kittatinny Valley, a rich grazing and 
farming country, ten miles wide, and abounding in clear lakes, 
fair green hills and broad reaches of valuable limestone lands. The 
Highlands cross northwestern New Jersey in a belt 60 miles long 
and from 10 to 22 miles wide, joining the South-Mountain range of 
Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania to the Highlands of New York and New England. 
They cover 900 square miles, between the Kittatinny Valley, on the north and west, and the 
red sandstone plain on the south, with a succession of detached parallel ridges, smooth-crested 
and without peaks, and reaching their greatest height on Hamburg Mountain (1,488 feet). 
Their detached parallel ridges include the Ramapo, Trowbridge, Wawayanda, Hamburg, 
Schooley's, Musconetcong, Pohatcong, Scott's and Jenny-Jump Mountains. Some of these 
are rich in minerals ; some are cultivated all over ; and others are bare, rocky and valueless. 
Southeast of the Highlands, from Trenton to Staten _. _^ 

Island, and from Holland to Morristown and Suf- 
fern, is the Triassic or Red-Sandstone region, of 
1, 540 square miles, the most thickly settled part 
of the State. Breaking through this red plain, 
perpendicular toward the east and gently sloping 
toward the west, are the low trap ridges of the 
Watchung, Sourland and Pickle Mountains. The 
most famous of these is the Palisades, a line of 
wonderful basaltic precipices extending along the 




THE PALISADES 
AND HUDSON RIVER. 




UAKE HOPATCONC. 



THE ST A TE OE NEW yERSEY. 



553 




PATERSON : PASSAIC TALLS. 



Hudson River from Staten-Island Sound to Ladentown(N.Y.), 
and looking down on the crowded streets of New York. 
This lonely line of cliffs is crowned with woods, and has 
many a bright cascade, many a deserted village and dock, 
and exquisite views over the broad Hudson. Nearly parallel, 
and several leagues inland, rise the long walls of the First, 
Second and Third Mountains. Orange Mountain is visible 
from New-York Harbor. The beautiful hill-country begin- 
ning at Orange, and including Madison, Montclair, Summit 
and Morristown, is enriched by hundreds of summer-estates 
and villas, suburban to New York. The land is lifted into 
great smooth folds, around which wind broad and excellent 
roads, traversing the fairest parts of this natural park. The mounds and dells of Short 
Hills are occupied by scores of the handsomest modern country-houses, with serpentine 
roads, ravines of ferns, gardens famous all over America, and vistas extending out to the 
Navesink Highlands. Farther to the east, over Dunellen, rises Washington Rock, from 
which the great Virginian used to watch the movements of the British troops in upper 
New Jersey. Thence the wayfarer may see the ships on the blue Atlantic, scores of white 
villages and cities (like Elizabeth, Rahway, Newark and Amboy), the chief buildings of 
great New York, and the piers of the Brooklyn Bridge, m a noble and commanding 
prospect, which includes the most populous and wealthy part of the American Union. 

Greenwood Lake lies among wildernesses of rugged 
rocks and woodlands, on the New- York frontier, and 
has several groups of pretty islands, and summer-hotels 
for hundreds of guests. Lake Hopatcong, nine by three 
miles, is a beautiful forest-girt sheet of water, glimmer- 
ing among the dark Brookland Mountains ; and in the 
same region is Budd's Lake, a round shield a league in 
circumference, and 1,200 feet high, over the Musconet- 
cong Valley. Both these localities have large summer- 
hotels and fine rural estates. Another popular point in 
this region is Schooley's Mountain, with its celebrated 
tonic chalybeate spring and hotels, visited now for nearly a century, and overlooking the 
Musconetcong and German Valleys. The Heath House was opened as a summer-resort in 
1793, and Gen. Washington spent part of a season here. His room and furniture are kept 
just as he left them. 

The southern part of the State is a plain, rarely rising to an altitude of two hundred 
feet, and almost without mineral deposits, except bog iron ore. Forests of fragrant cedar 
front Delaware Bay and the Atlantic Ocean. Contrary to the general opinion, the land is 
not a sandy waste of pine and scrub oak, but rather a rich unimproved agricultural country, 
where cleared farms are often worth $250 to $400 per acre. With soil and climate like 
those of southeastern Virginia, trucking for markets is a profitable industry, whilst the best 
rail and water communication exists with the great cities. The Vineland and Hammonton 

colonies were founded about 20 years 
ago, mainly by New-Englanders, with 
their characteristic ideas and institu- 
tions, and on the gravelly loam quanti- 
ties of small fruits are raised for the city 
markets. In this vicinity are colonies of 
Russian Jews, driven from their own 
country. South Jersey is well adapted to 
the manufacture of glass and bricks, as 




ATLANTIC CITY. 




PERTH AMBOY : RAILWAY BRIDGE, RARITAN RIVER. 



554 



KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STA7ES. 




excellent sand and clay abound. The ocean-front is 
to a large extent composed of narrow sandy islands, 
with areas of melancholy salt-marsh and tidal 
lagoons inside, reached by narrow inlets. 
Barnegat Bay, and Great and Little Egg 
Harbors, are useful for small vessels only. 
Newark Bay covers ten square miles, and 
opens on New-York harbor. The fisheries 
employ over 6,000 men, with a yearly product of $3,000,000, most 
of which is from oysters. A score of varieties of foodfish are caught, 
LONG BRANCH : THE BLUFF including tautog, porgies, sheep's-head, weak-fish, mackerel, cod, 
AND BATHING BEACH. bluc-fish, swordfish, haddock, salmon and herring. Jersey City, 
with its enormous commerce, is in the New-York customs-district. The ports of entry on 
the coast are Perth Amboy, Great Egg Harbor, Tuckerton, Newark, and Bridgeton, Lam- 
berton is at Trenton, on the Delaware. Sandy Hook forms one of the portals of the Lower 
Bay of New York, and is partly covered with scrub oak and pine and ground ivy, and occu- 
pied by a deserted stone fort, three light-houses, a telegraph station for reporting incoming 
vessels, and an ordnance station of the United- States Army, with several officers and 40 
soldiers, where great guns are tested. The Hook belongs to the Government ; and is joined 
to the mainland by a narrow sand-strip six miles long, between the sea and Shrewsbury 
River. Steamboats run from New York to the Hook, 
whence a railway goes down the beach to Long Branch 
The most conspicuous point on the coast is the 
Highlands of Navesink, a rugged and wooded 
range rising from the sea near Sandy Hook, Mt. 
Mitchell being 282 feet high. The great Fresnel 
lanterns of the Highland Lights flash 248 feet 
above the water, visible for many leagues at sea. 
From the tops of their tall stone towers New York 
and the Narrows may be seen, with the villages 
of Long Island, the blue waters of Raritan Bay, the coast as far down as Long Branch, 
and a vast expanse of ocean. The scenes of Cooper's Water Witch are laid in this vicinity. 
The coast below is lined with well-known summer-resorts, abounding in hotels. Beginning 
on the north, with the sea-commanding Highlands of Navesink, we may go southward 
by Seabright to Long Branch, in Grant's day the summer capital of the Republic, and en- 
riched with many costly villas, 31 miles from New York, and close to the famous Mon- 
mouth-Park race-course ; Elberon, where President Garfield died ; Asbury Park and Ocean 
Grove, famous Methodist camp-meeting grounds, with the rude tents of former years re- 
placed by huge hotels and many cottages, and the summer-headquarters of bishops. King's 
Daughters, deaconesses, and other devout persons ; Sea Girt, with the camp of the New- 
Jersey National Guard ; Point Pleasant, the oldest sea-side resort on the coast ; Seaside 

Park, on the beach outside of Barnegat Bay ; 
Tom's River and Tuckerton, quiet old 
maritime villages on the estuaries ; Atlan- 
tic City, beyond the vast salt-marshes of 
Absecon, and near Brigantine Beach, with 
its magnificent strand, favored by people 
of Philadelphia (64 miles northwest), both 
in summer and winter; and Cape May, 81 
miles from Philadelphia, one of the famous 
Capes of Delaware. Above Cape May are 
CAPE MAY : OCEAN PIER. scveral beaches. 







CAPE MAY. 




THE STATE OF NEIV JERSEY. 



555 




DELAWARE WATER GAP. 



The coast consists of broad tidal meadows, with no 
good harbors, and is starred at night with fifty lights, of 
which nearly a score glimmer around New- York Bay, 
while others show the courses up the Delaware as far as 
Bordentown, and the tall towers of the Cape-May, Abse- 
con, Barnegat and Navesink lights face the Atlantic. This 
coast has been called "The Graveyard of the Sea," so 
numerous have been the wrecks along its barren sands. It 
is now occupied by a line of stations of the United-States 
Life-Saving Service. In six years of the last decade, 400 
vessels went ashore here, and 4,650 lives and $7,000,000 
worth of property were saved, only 80 persons having been 
lost. Surfmen patrol the beaches through the winter nights ; and when a wreck is discovered 
they burn red Coston lights, to alarm the stations and to notify the sailors that help is near. 
The chief rivers include the Passaic and Hackensack (80 miles long), emptying into 
Newark Bay ; the Raritan, navigable to New Brunswick, 1 7 miles ; the Little Egg Harbor 
and Great Egg Harbor Rivers, emptying into the Atlantic ; and the Maurice. 

Lakewood is one of the foremost winter-resorts in America, and stands in a dense pine 
forest, eight miles from the ocean, free from malaria and rich in the perfume of myriads 
of pine-trees. Thousands of guests enjoy its bracing air every 
winter and spring. Still greater numbers visit Atlantic City, 
whose climate is milder, during the inclement season, than 
almost any other point in the snowy North. Brown's Mills, 
in the pine woods 30 miles east of Philadelphia, has also been 
a health-resort for over seventy years. The healthy uplands of 
the north have a mean temperature of 48° to 50°, and 50 inches 
of rainfall. The southern plains, under the influence of the 
ocean, have an annual mean of 54°, with a precipitation of 41 
inches. 

Agriculture employs 30,000 New-Jersey farms, covering 
3,000,000 acres, and valued at $265,000,000. The State raises 
yearly 600,000 tons of hay, worth $7,500,000; 10,000,000 
bushels of corn, worth $5,000,000; 3,500,000 bushels of oats and potatoes; and 2,000,000 
bushels of wheat. The Delaware Valley from Trenton to Salem, and other parts of the 
central counties, are among the most carefully and skillfully developed farming regions in 
America, being in effect vast market-gardens for New York and Philadelphia. Farmlands 
are worth more here than in any other State. 
New Jersey is famous for its peaches, and sends 
to market yearly above 2,000,000 baskets, the 
fruit being fully equal in flavor to that of any other 
region, and much nearer the metropolitan cities. 
It is also one of the three great cranberry 
States (the others being Massachusetts and Wis- 
consin), and the crop has exceeded 234,000 
bushels in a year. The headquarters of the 
American Cranberry Growers' Association is at Trenton. 
The counties of Sussex and Warren and the adjacent 
Orange County (N. Y.) produce nearly all the apple- 
brandy made in America, their 50 distilleries turning out 
nearly 200,000 gallons yearly. This fiery spirit is com- 
monly known as applejack, or Jersey lightning. The live- 
stock of the State is valued at about $20,000,000, and 




VIEW FROM THE kAl 





INCLINED PLANE, MORRIS CANAL. 



556 K'/NG\S ITANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

includes 125,000 horses, 240,000 cattJe, 150,000 hogs and 
130,000 sheep. The dairy products yield a great amount 
yearly. Two fifths of the State is covered with forests, whose 
products in fuel and lumber exceed $5,000,000 yearly. The 
annual loss by forest-fires exceeds $1,000,000. 

Minerals. — The Kittatinny Mountain has large quar- 
ries of slate on the southeast, at Delaware Water Gap and 
Newton, for roofing and flagging ; and water-lime and 
Rosendale cement on the north. Northwest of the High- 
lands lie the Palaeozoic rocks, and the valuable magnesian 
limestones and hematite iron-ores of the Kittatinny Valley. 
The Highlands are of Azoic rocks, syenitic gneiss and 
crystalline limestone, with great deposits of magnetic iron 
ore, of which from 500,000 to 1,000,000 tons are mined 
yearly, and worked in the furnaces at Oxford, Boonton and Phillipsburg, and in Pennsyl- 
vania. This range also yields blue sedimentary rock, for building and for making lime, and 
has valuable quarries of granite. New Jersey is one of the foremost States in producing 
zinc, mined at Ogdensburg and Franklin, and worked at Newark and Jersey City. The 
product of Sussex County since 1880 has averaged over 40,000 tons a year. The 
1,540 square miles of the red sandstone plain contain 
valuable quarries at Newark, Belleville, Paterson, Orange, 
Trenton, and Little Falls (whence came the stone for 
Trinity Church, N. Y.). These firmly cemented de- 
posits of once incoherent beds of sand contain many fos- 
sils of fishes and plants. The quarries at Greensburg and 
Prattsville, on the Delaware, send their product largely to 
Philadelphia. The Perth-Amboy Terra-Cotta Works use 
15,000 tons of clay, and turn out $400,000 worth of goods 
yearly. Trenton makes more pottery and crockery than 
all the rest of the Atlantic States. The plastic and fire- 
clays of Trenton, Woodbridge and Amboy are pure and 
highly refractory ; and have a high value in the arts. In 
a single year, 350,000 tons of these clays have been worked, 
making a large proportion of American terra cotta, pottery 
and stone-ware, besides 160,000,000 red bricks and 
16,000,000 fire-bricks. The Raritan and Delaware dis- 
tricts yearly send out 250,000 tons of fire-clay and potters' 
clay, valued at $460,000; and 80,000 tons of fire-sand. From Sandy Hook to Salem ex- 
tend beds of marl, clay marl and shell marl, of which 200,000 tons are used yearly for fer- 
tilizing the soil ; and thick alternating strata of sand and green-sand, the latter of which is 
used in glass-making. In former days, copper and graphite were obtained in New Jersey, 

which also has small deposits of lead and nickel, 
and valuable manganese, sulphate of baryta, 
kaolin, pyrites and infusorial earth. The rose- 
crystal marble of Jenny- Jump and the serpen- 
tine of Montville are noteworthy minerals. 

The Government consists of a governor, 
elected for three years by the people ; a legisla- 
ture of 21 three-years senators and 60 one-year 
assemblymen ; secretary of state, attorney-gen- 
eral, adjutant-general, quartermaster general, 
HOBOKEN ; THE STEVENS INSTITUTE. and othcr officlals appointed by the governor 




MOUNT BYRAM : IRON MINE. 




THE STATE OE NElV JERSEY. 



557 




MORRISTOWN : INSANE ASYLUM. 



and confirmed by the senate ; and a treasurer and 

comptroller and others appointed by the legislature. 

The judiciary (mainly appointed by the governor 

and confirmed by the senate) includes the courts 

of errors and appeals, of impeachment (the senate), 

of chancery, of prerogative, and of pardon ; the 

supreme court of nine justices ; and the circuit and 

common-pleas courts in each county. The State 

House overlooks the Uelavv'are River, at Trenton, 

and its front part, built to replace one partly burnt in 1885, is a Renaissance structure, of 

Indiana oolitic limestone, with a dome and rotunda, and a portico and balcony upheld by 

polished marble columns. The library of 35,000 volumes, the geological museum, and the 

battle-flags of the volunteers of 1861-5, are preserved here. 

The Geological Survey and its geodetic and topographical works have been of great 
benefit. These works were begun by Prof. H. D. Rogers (1839-40) and Dr. Wm. Kitchell 
(1854-6), and continued from 1864 to 1889 by Prof. G. H. Cook. The Labor Bureau con- 
tinually studies ways of opening profitable new avenues for industry ; collects statistics about 
labor and capital ; and helps these two great forces to agree. The Board of Health collects 
valuable vital statistics, and investigates all matters pertaining to the public health. The 
State debt was contracted in 186 1-5, mainly for supporting soldiers' families. No State tax 

has been levied for several years. 

The National Guard is embodied in a 
division of two brigades. The First Brigade 
includes the First (headquarters, Newark), 
Second (Hoboken), Fourth (Jersey City), and 
Fifth (Newark) Regiments ; the First, Second, 
and Third Battalions, of Paterson, Leonia and 
Orange; Gatling Battery A, of Elizabeth; and 
five gun detachments. The Second Brigade is 
made up of the Third (Elizabeth), Sixth (Cam- 
den), and Seventh (Trenton) Regiments, with their gun detachments ; Gatling Battery B, 
of Camden ; and Company A, Sea-Coast Artillery, of Atlantic City. The reserve militia 
numbers 285,000 men. One brigade of the National Guard encamps for a week each sum- 
mer at Sea Girt, alongside of the ocean, where the State has a capital camp-ground of 119 
acres. Great attention is paid to rifle-practice, and gold and silver crosses of honor are 
awarded to marksmen. The artillery cannonades targets anchored off shore. Skirmish- 
drill and volley-firing are also practiced. The State owns 46 field-pieces and eight Catlings. 
The Arsenal occupies the old State Prison at Trenton, built in 1797; and has several Brit- 
ish and French trophy cannon, and the arms and ammunition, tents, and other military 
supplies. The New- Jersey Home for Disabled Soldiers was founded in 1865 at Newark, 
and in 1888 moved into commodious new buildings at Kearney, on the Passaic River. It has 
430 inmates, unfortunate veterans of the Secession War. 

The defective and delinquent persons in New Jersey 
number 7,200, costing the State $1,700,000 a year. The 
State Prison at Trenton was finished in 1836, of Ewing 
red stone, and in Egyptian architecture. It con- 
tains 1,000 convicts. Indeterminate sentences 
have been recommended for trial here. The State 
laws forbid that criminals under 16 years shall be 
confined with adults. The State Industrial School 
for Girls dates from 1 871, and has 90 inmates. 
It occupies a large farm, in the beautiful Delaware 




GREENWOOD LAKE. 




-■sm.. 



ws 



(^ 



,;£it^- 



PRINCETON : JOHN C. GREEN SCHOOL OF SCIENCE. 



558 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNfTED STATES. 



Valley, two miles north- 
west of Trenton. The 
State Reform School at 
Jamesburg, opened in 
1867, contains 330 boys, 
who are taught the Eng- 
lish branches, and also 
tailoring, shoe-making, 
printing, brick and tile 
making and 
farming. It oc- 
cupies a farm of 
490 acres. The 
vast and impos- 
ing palace of the 
State Asylum' 
for the Insane, 
on Morris 
Plains, contains 900 pa- 
tients, and is one of the best 
in America. It occupies a 
farm of 430 acres, and cost 
2,250,000. The State 
I unatic Asylum, opened in 
1848, near the Delaware 
Ri\ei, 2i miles northwest of Tren- 
ton, is a high domed building of 
red sandstone, accommodating 800 
patients The Home for Feeble- 
Minded Women and Children was 
founded at Vineland in 1888. The 
School for Deaf Mutes at Trenton 
educates its 125 inmates in Eng- 
lish branches and industrial dex- 
terity. Blind children are supported by the State in Pennsylvania and New-York institutions. 
The only garrisoned United-States military post in New Jersey is Fort Wood, on Bed- 
loe's Island, New- York Harbor, where stands Bartholdi's famous statue of Liberty Enlighten- 
ing the World. The United-States Powder Depot is 4^ miles from Dover. 

Education. — New Jersey has 392, 209 children of school-age, of whom 227,441 are en- 
rolled in the free public schools. These schools can accommodate but 212,000. The school- 
funds, including riparian leases and agricultural-college funds, reach nearly $3,500,000, 
giving a yearly income of $275,000, besides over $3,000,000 of school-taxes. The value of 
the school-property exceeds $8,500,000. The school-libraries contain 90,000 volumes. The 
State Normal School at Trenton has 250 students. The Model School at Trenton is a fully 
equipped State academy, with 450 students. The Farnum School, at Beverly, preparatory 
for the Normal, has 130 students. 

Princeton College, officially called the College of New Jersey, received its charter in 1746, 
as a Presbyterian "seminary of true religion and sound learning," and held its earliest ses- 
sions at Elizabethtown and Newark, removing in 1757 to Princeton, whose citizens con- 
tributed liberally to its establishment. The great stone building of Nassau Hall, named for 
King William III., of the House of Nassau, dates from 1754-7, and was then the largest 
building in the American colonies. During the Revolution this edifice was for five years a 




PRINCETON : THE COLLEGE OF N 





THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 559 

barrack and 
hospital for the 
British and 
American arm- 
ies. The Con- 
tinental Con- 
gress held ses- 
sions here in 
the latter part of the Revo- 
lution. 

When the Secession War 
broke out, a third of Prince- 
ton's students returned to 
their homes in the South, and 
many of those who remained 

entered the National army, to the great loss of the college >^ 
The presidency of the Rev. Dr. James McCosh extended 
from 1868 to 1888, during which period the college grew ^ 
from 16 instructors and 264 students to 40 instructors (it now 
has 50) and 604 students (it now has 750), and also received 
$3,000,000 in contributions. John C. Green founded the 

School of Science, and built Dickinson Hall and the Chan _ _ ._,i^ ,_ ^ riAicii^ 

cellor-Green Library ; and his estate erected Witherspoon 

and Edwards Halls and the small observatory, the electrical ^^* BRu^'swlCK . rutgers college. 
building and the Laboratory. In all, $1,500,000 came to Princeton from this source. Wm. 
Libbey gave the University Hotel and the Museum of Geology and Archaeology. Gen. 
Norris Halsted erected the observatory. Robert Bonner and H. C. Marquand built the 
beautiful gymnasium ; and the latter erected the chapel. His brother's estate founded the 
School of Art. The Stuarts gave the president's house and grounds, and founded the School 
of Philosophy. Mrs. Susan D. Brown gave $175,000 to erect Albert Dod Hall and David 
Brown Hall. A number of the professorships bear the names of the founders. Princeton 
has 6,300 alumni, including 1,250 clergymen and 400 physicians. The ancient Nassau Hall 
and East and West Colleges, and the American Whig and Cliosophic Halls enclose a quiet 
quadrangle, guarded by two Revolutionary cannon. On either side of this central group, 
embowered in many trees, are the more modern buildings, with their valuable museums 
and collections. The libraries contain 80,000 volumes ; and among the treasures of the Art 
Building are the Mainion Assyrian antiquities and the Trumbull-Prime pottery. Most of 
the buildings are of stone, and stand in a beautiful campus arranged by Frederick Law 
Olmsted and Donald G. Mitchell. The Theological Seminary was established in 1812 
by the General Assembly of the Presbyterian Church. It has no organic connection with 
the college. It has a board of directors and a board of trustees. The directors elect the 
professors, and fill their own vacancies, both subject to a veto of the General Assembly, 
which thus retains ecclesiastical control over th« institution. Besides the original building, 
it has an additional dormitory, the gift of Mrs. George Brown, of Baltimore, a building for 
lecture courses, given by R. I. and A. Stuart, of New-York City, a refectory and a chapel, 
and two library buildings, erected by James Lenox, of New York, besides several pro- 
fessors' houses. These donors, together with the J. C. Green estate, have furnished the 
larger part of the endowment. The library contains upward of 50,000 volumes. The sem- 
inary has ten instructors, 175 students and 4,000 graduates. Evelyn College is a modern 
and successful institution for young women, near Princeton College, and has 50 students. 

Rutgers College received its charter in 1766, as Queen's College, and opened its doors 
at New Brunswick, in 1771, mainly to prepare young men for the ministry of the Reformed 



c^Q ICING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STA'IES. 

Protestant Dutch Church. The buildings were burned by the British, and the institution 
suffered three periods of suspension, covering 25 years. Under the presidencies of Mille- 
doler, Frelinghuysen, Campbell and Gates (1825-90), the college has advanced steadily, and 
it now has 23 instructors and 187 students. The shadowy campus contains the noble old 
brownstone building of Queen's College, the geological hall, the observatory, the beautiful 
chapel and library, and the handsome colonial dormitory. Winants Hall, erected in 1889-90, 
with assembly and dining halls, and dormitories for 120 students. The State College for 
the Promotion of Agriculture and the Mechanic Arts, founded in 1865, with $1 16,000 com- 
ing from the Congressional land-grant, is connected with Rutgers, practically as its scientific 
school, and has an admirable model farm of 100 acres. There are 15 professors, instructing 
in four courses, chemistry, engineering, electricity, and agriculture. This institution has 50 
State scholarships, free of tuition charge. 

The Stevens Institute of Technology was founded by Edwin A. Stevens, who bequeathed 
$500,000 for the purpose, and also a block of land close ^, i?«-^> 4§J> , to Castle 

Point, the beautiful Stevens estate at Hoboken. The «^''> "is&i ^i. institute 

opened in 1871, and has grown into success, having now ^t^^/^t$)^ml^ 1$ instruc- 




JERSEY CITY, HOBOKEN, AND THE HUDSON RIVER. 

tors and more than 200 students, besides a large number in the academy connected therewith. 
The ancient (Dutch) Reformed Church has but one theological school in America, 
founded in 1784, and established near Rutgers College in 1810. It is richly endowed, and 
has six professors and 60 students, adhering to the Belgic Confession and Heidelberg 
Catechism. The German Theological Seminary of Newark is a Presbyterian institution, at 
Bloomfield. Drew Theological Seminary is a Methodist-Episcopal institution, endowed in 
1867 with $250,000, by Daniel Drew, the famous New- York broker. It occupies an exten- 
sive domain at Madison, and has over 100 students. Seton-Hall College, at South Orange, 
is a reputable Catholic institution, founded in 1856, with collegiate, commercial and ecclesi- 
astical courses. Vineland has a Catholic college and theological school, and Newark has 
a college. The Military Institute is a boarding-school among the ancient elms and chest- 
nuts of the Bonaparte park, at Bordentown. Burlington College (founded in 1846) and St. 
Mary's Hall are Episcopal schools at Burlington. There are academies of high grade at 
Hightstown, Morristown, Plainfield, Pennington, Beverly, Hackettstown, Hoboken, Law- 



enceville. Bridge 
other places, 



ton, Belvidere, Blairstown, and 
Chief Cities. — One-fifth of the 
population is foreign, with 100,000 
Irishmen, 80,000 Germans and 
40,000 Englishmen. Newark, nine 
miles west of New York, is an en- 
terprising city on the plains of the Passaic, four miles 
from Newark Bay, with eleven banks, 120 churches, 
and 400 factories. $60,000,000 in rubber, leather, 
jewelry and other goods, and flour and beer, are 
LONG BRANCH : MONMOUTH-PARK RACE COURSE, produccd hcrc yearly. Jersey City has several lines 




THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 



561 




of steam ferry-boats across the Hudson River to 
New-York City. The great railways to the south 
and west terminate here, and also several import- 
ant steamship lines. Hoboken, on the Hudson, 
just above Jersey City, is also a terminal point 
for railway and steamship lines. Trenton (Trent's- 
town, for Col. Wm. Trent, its owner in 1720), 
the capital, is a clean, thrifty and pleasant city, 
on the Delaware, with great potteries and other 



NEWARK : POST-OFFICE. 



works. Gen. McClellan is buried in the Riverview Cemetery. 
Camden faces Philadelphia, across the Delaware, and has 
ship-yards, factories, and immense market-gardens. Pater- 
son, at the falls of the Passaic River, is the chief American 
seat of the silk-making industry, in which it has 8,000 opera- 
tives, besides thousands in cotton, woolen and velvet mills. 
Elizabeth has the suburban homes of many New-York mer- 
chants. New Brunswick, on the Raritan, contains immense 
rubber and harness manufactories. Among other cities are Rahway, with its great carriage- 
factories ; Perth Amboy, once the capital of New Jersey and a rival of New York ; Prince- 
ton, with the graves of Jonathan Edwards and Aaron Burr; Millville, with glass-factories; 
Plainfield, a pleasant hat-making city ; Phillipsburg, with iron-works on the Delaware ; 
Orange, with the pleasant homes of New-York merchants, under the long shadow of Orange 
Mountain ; Morristown, a dignified old shiretown, with the villas of many New-York gentle- 
men; Burlington, an ancient Quaker town, on the Delaware, bombarded 
by British gunboats in 1776; Bordentown, another pleasant little river- 
city ; Bridgeton, on the Cohansey, not far from Delaware Bay, with iron, 
glass and woolen mills ; Vineland, a New-England colony on the great 
pine-plains of South Jersey ; Bayonne, on New- York harbor, with enor- 
mous petroleum refineries ; and Mount Holly, in the Rancocas Valley. 

Insurance is a prominent feature of the advanced civilization of New 
Jersey, and there are several strong companies here, doing a large and profit- 
able business. The foremost fire-insurance company of New Jersey is the 
American Insurance Company, located at Newark. It was founded away 
back in 1846, and has had an uninterrupted career of success. Fortunately 
for the company, its operations were confined almost entirely to New Jersey 
until after the Chicago and Boston conflagrations. In 1873 it entered a 
few outside cities, and in 1880 extended operations generally throughout 
the country, on a conservative basis, in approved localities, with agents in 
the chief Northern and Western cities, and on the Pacific Coast. A note- 

NEWARK : AMERICAN ' 

INSURANCE CO. worthy fact about the American is that its surplus not only exceeds 




562 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEWARK : MUTUAL BENEFIT LIFE- 
INSURANCE CO. 



$1,000,000, but it is larger than the cash capital and the lia- 
bilities united. The American leads all other New-Jersey com- 
panies in total assets as well as in surplus ; although no company 
is more conservative and none less ostentatious. 

Among the oldest and strongest insurance corporations of 
America, whose immense and beneficent operations have amazed 
the financial world, the Mutual Benefit Life-insurance Co., of 
Newark, occupies a peculiarly interesting position. Among its 
principles are the following: It has no capital, but is conducted on 
the purely mutual plan, for the insurance of lives upon the regu- 
lar or level premium system. All profits are divided among 
the policy-holders, in the form of yearly dividends. The policies 
are non-forfeitable, and incontestable after the second year ; and 
the full reserve value of a lapsed policy is applied by the com- 
pany to keeping the insurance in force, or (if preferred) to the 
purchase of a paid-up policy for a reduced amount. The Mutual Benefit was founded in 
1845, ^"^ ^^^ collected from its policy-holders $133,000,000, and paid out to its policy- 
holders $60,000,000 for policy claims, .$15,000,000 for surrendered policies, and $39,000,000 
for dividends. It has 65,000 policies, covering $172,000,000, and its assets are $47,000,000, 
with a surplus of $3,500,000. Amzi Dodd is president, and James B. Pearson, vice-presi- 
dent. There is no sounder or more conservative corporation in America. 

The Railroads of New Jersey enjoy a remarkable prosperity, since they join the 
greatest cities in America. The Camden & Amboy line 
received incorporation in 1830, and for its first six 
months (in 1833), the trains were drawn by horses. 
The United New-Jersey Railroad runs from Camden to 
Amboy (61 miles), from Philadelphia to Jersey City 
(88 miles), and from Trenton to Manunka Chunk (68 
miles). The Central Railroad of New Jersey runs from 
Jersey City to Phillipsburg, from Elizabeth to Perth 
Amboy and Long Branch, and from Long Branch 
southwest to Delaware Bay. Several lines cross from 
Philadelphia to Cape May, Atlantic City and the summer-resorts farther up ; and other 
routes connect New York with the favorite beaches from Sandy Hook to Barnegat Bay. 
The Baltimore & Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Atlantic Coast lines traverse the State. 

Canals. — The famous old Morris Canal formerly had a large coal-carrying trade over 

its loi miles from Jersey City to Phillipsburg. It cost $3,500,000, and was opened in 

1831. The Delaware and Raritan Canal (New Brunswick to Bordentown) cost $4,500,000. 

The Manufactories of New Jersey number over 7,000, with 130,000 operatives, 

$110,000,000 capital, $50,000,000 yearly wages, and a product of $250,000,000 yearly. 

Within the last 30 years the transporting and refining of petroleum has grown from 

nothing to be one of the 
leading American indus- 
tries. Foremost among 
the great companies en- 
gaged in this business are 
the Tide Water Pipe Com- 
pany and its off-shoot, the 
Tide Water Oil Com- 
pany. The former com- 
pany, organized in 1878 

BAYONNE i THE TIDE-WATER OIL COMPANY. "^ "• '^^ ■t>eriS0n, 01 1 ItUS- 




ARTHUR-KILL BRIDGE. 




THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 



563 




BAYONNE : THE TIDE-WATER OIL COMPANY. 



ville (Pa. ), who became its first president, gathers in the Pennsylvania oil-regions 7, 500 barrels 
of crude oil a day, and transports it through 320 miles of six-inch pipe (under a pressure of 
1,200 pounds a square inch) to Bayonne (N. J.), where it is delivered to the Tide Water Oil 
Company. This latter corporation was formed in 1889 by the consolidation of four smaller 
companies. Its works, located on New- York Harbor, form the largest single oil-refinery in 
the world, and are valued at $6,000,000. They cover 107 acres, and have an annual ca- 
pacity of 3,000,000 barrels of crude oil. At its docks are berths for 30 vessels, with a 
depth of water sufficient for the largest ocean steamers. Here is often seen a fleet of fine 
East-India clippers, loading with case oil for countries of the far East, together with great 
bulk steamers loading 
for England and Ger- 
many. So good are 
the facilities that a bulk 
steamer carrying 1,200,- 
000 gallons has been 
loaded in 14 hours. 
There are 1,800 men 
employed. The crude 
material used yearly includes 125,000 tons of coal, 13,500,000 pounds of sulphuric 
acid, 20,500,000 feet of lumber for cases, 8,800 tons of tin-plate for cans, and 4,000,000 
white-oak staves for barrels. The company manufactures all petroleum products, but makes 
a specialty of illuminating oils and naphtha, paraffine and lubricating oils. It is the only 
powerful rival of the octopus Standard Oil Company, and how great a rival it is may be 
judged from the fact that its annual sales amount to over $9,000,000. 

In making hats. New Jersey is second only to Connecticut, turning out yearly 9,000,000 
hats, from 82 factories. Fifty glass-furnaces employ 5,000 persons, with an output of 
$3,000,000 a year. Silk-mills employ 13,000 persons, producing $17,000,000 a year. 

One of the most impressive industrial establishments in America is the enormous sewing- 
machine factory of the Singer Manufacturing Co. , lying between the beautiful Singer Park and 
Newark Bay, at Elizabeth. These spacious and handsome brick buildings cover 18 acres of 
floor space, and stand among and around lawns and trees, the entire estate including 32 acres, 
with four miles of railroad upon it, and one side fcounded by a long dock frontage, where the 
company's steamboat takes on freight daily. The works employ 3, 300 persons, and make 1,500 
sewing-machines a day. When Isaac Merritt Singer, poor and unknown, but great in faith, set 
his first rude sewing-machine in operation, at Boston, in the year 1851, he conferred an inesti- 
mable benefit on the human race. After the late Edward Clark became Singer's partner, the 
business was moved to New York, where the chief offices remain, though the main American 
works have been at Elizabeth since 1873. The company has avast capital, with stores and 
salaried men in every civilized and uncivilized land, over 1,000 American branches, two large 
wood-working factories in this country, and a factory in Canada, another in Australia, and im- 
mense works near Glasgow, Scotland, employing 4, 500 workers. This company has invented 
and controls more special processes used in manufacturing and has produced a greater variety 

of machines than all other houses in its line com- 
bined. Nearly ten million of its machines are 
now in use, and the ambition of the company is 
to make a million machines a year. It is said 
that the employees of the Singer Company, in- 
cluding all those engaged in the executive, 
manufacturing, operating and selling depart- 
ments, will outnumber those of any other one 
concern in the world, as they form an industrial 
SINGER MANUFACTURING CO. army of 40,000 workers. 




564 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



The Lorillard Tobacco Works in Jersey 
City are the oldest in America and the largest 
in the world for making tobacco in every va- 
riety. This pre-eminent industry was founded 
in 1760, by Pierre Lorillard, an enterprising 
French Huguenot, who opened a little tobacco- 
shop on the Boston turnpike (now Chatham 
Street), in New York. His snuff mill, on the 
Bronx River, made all the animals sneeze for 
miles around (or so the newspapers declared). 
The business grew amain, under the command 
of Pierre Lorillard, and then his widow, and 
then his sons, until now in the hands of his 
grandsons and great-grandsons it employs 4, 000 
persons in connection with its enormous and 
unrivalled industries, and makes nearly 25,000,- 




JERSEY city: lorillard tobacco works. 




000 pounds a year. The structure in which fine-cut and smoking tobacco and snuff are 
made covers a full city square, and the plug-tobacco factory covers two squares. P. Loril- 
lard & Co. have experts in the South, sampling, buying and forwarding the crude tobaccos ; 
and the manufactured articles are sent all over the world, in enormous quantities. This 
house has paid the United-States Government, in the last 25 years, over $50,000,000 in taxes. 
The Lorillards look carefully after the comfort of their operatives, with light and airy work- 
rooms, a library and a dispensary, and evening and sewing schools. 

A wise philosopher once said "The love of soap is the test of civilization, and the love 
of refined soap marks an advance in culture." From 
this reasonable point of view, one of the powerful cul- 
tivating agencies in modern times is the old and sub- 
stantial house of Colgate & Co., — the unrivalled fine 
soap makers of America — whose Cashmere Bouquet 
and many other exquisite toilet soaps and perfumes 
are used in immense quantities all over civilized Amer- 
ica and Europe. This industry began in 1^06, on the 
site occupied to-day by its offices, in John Street, New 
York, and its works now cover an entire block in Jer- 
sey City, and employ 700 hands. In Southern France 
alone, 90 tons of roses are gathered every year for Colgate & Co., to be made up into the 
most delicate and fragrant extracts and colognes, toilet soaps and sachet powders, pure 
and hygienic in composition and enduring in perfume. These articles have almost entirely 
supplanted European soaps in America, and have also won great success abroad. 

The oldest and largest bottle-glass manufacturers in America are the Whitney Glass 
Works, making green, flint, and amber bottles and stoppers, and bottles for proprietary 
medicine-makers, apothecaries, stationers, perfumers and bottlers. This industry was 
founded in 1775, by seven brothers named Stanger, practical glass-blowers from Europe, 

who foresaw that America, then on 
the eve of the long Revolutionary War, 
would need to make her own glass- 
waie. At the close of the war. Col. 
Heston, an officer of the Continental 
limy, bought and enlarged the works, 
\ hich are now managed by his great- 
1 andsons, Thos. W. Synnott and John 
CLAsseoRo : WHITNEY GUAss-wQRKs. P. Whltncy, thc former being the presj' 



JERSEY CITY ; COLGATE i CO. 




THE ST A TE OF NEW JERSEY. 



565 




dent and the latter the treasurer of the com- 
pany. The works were incorporated in 1887, 
with a capital of $500,000. Within ten years 
the plant has more than trebled its production, 
and now employs 1,200 hands, oftentimes work- 
ing night and day. The great factory at Glass- 
boro has the five largest patent tank-furnaces 
in America, with protected working parts, mak- 
ing the metal more solid and of a handsomer 
color than the old processes could. The com- 
pany also has factories at Camden and Salem, N. J. The main offices and warehouses are 
in Philadelphia, with branches at New York and Boston, and agencies in other cities. 

Southern New Jersey has the greatest American industry in its special lines of cast-iron 
pipe and gas and water apparatus in the foundries of R. D. Wood & Co., at Millville, Flor- 
ence and Camden, employing 1,300 men, and making all kinds of cast-iron pipe, fire hydrants 
and valves, gas machinery, hydraulic and pumping machinery and travelling cranes, sugar- 
house work, Geyelin's duplex turbine-wheels, large loam-work, Eddy valves, Matthew's 
fire-hydrants, lamp-posts and other heavy appliances. They also design and construct enor- 
mous gas-holders, either single-lift or telescopic (without heavy supporting frames), purifiers, 
condensers, and scrubbers. The casting capacity is about 600 tons a day. These articles are 
sent all over the United States and Canada, and to Cuba and Central and South America. 
San Diego and Tacuma, Cicnfuegos and Caracas, Ottawa and Halifax alike have R. D. 

Wood & Co. 's work. The plant at Millville was 
started by the father of the present owmers, in 
1803, when the heavy timber of South Jersey made 
a charcoal furnace possible. 

The patent water-tube steam-boilers of the 
liabcock & Wilcox Co. are constructed for the 
L'nited States in Elizabeth, and shipped from 
there to all parts of the country. The inventor of 
he principle of inclined water-tubes connecting 
water-spaces front and rear with a steam space 
above was Stephen Wilcox, in 1856. The joint patent of George H. Babcock and S. Wil- 
cox was given in 1867, the main idea being to insure safety from explosion, but (as now 
developed and secured by upwards of 100 patents) also large draught area, complete com- 
bustion, thin heating surface, quick steaming, great durability, and economy of steam. 
Babcock & Wilcox boilers are used by many of the largest concerns in the world, such as 
Spreckels's, the Cardenas, the Brooklyn, and the Boston Sugar Refineries, the Vienna Im- 
perial Gas Association, the Vienna Opera House, the Deptford electrical plants, London, 
the great "Popp Co." in Paris, the Pennsylvania Steel Works, the New- York Steam Co., 
the Edison Co., the Hotel Ponce de Leon, and many others, besides a long list of factories 
of all kinds. The resources of the Babcock & Wilcox Co. are above $1,000,000, and their 
sales in 1890 amounted to 125,000 horse-power. This is the preeminent steam-boiler manu- 
facturing establishment in the world, 
having factories also in Scotland, 
France, Germany and Austria. The 
main offices are in New York and 
London, and there are numerous 
branch offices in the United States, 
and in all parts of the globe, receiving 
orders for these exceedingly ingenious 
and valuable steam-boilers. Elizabeth ; babcock 4 wilcox co. 




MILLVILLE : 




566 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




EAST NEWARK : HARTSHORN SHADE-r,'i 



The Hartshorn family entered 
the shade-roller business in 1850, 
and in 1864 Stewart Hartshorn put 
an end to centuries of general an- 
noyance from the old and trouble- 
some cord-and-ratchet devices, by 
inventing the self-acting pawl-spring 
shade-rollers, which are now in 
use all over the civilized world. In 
1872 the business was moved from New York to a spacious new factory, built at East New- 
ark for the purpose ; and when even this large establishment became inadequate to supply 
the demand, in spite of enlargements, new factories were erected at Muskegon (Mich.) and 
Toronto (Canada). In these works seven tenths of the self-acting shade-rollers of the world 
are made. All along new patents for many improvements have been taken out. Medals 
have been received at eight world's fairs, including the Philadelphia Centennial, Paris, and 
Barcelona. Stewart Hartshorn was the founder of, and is now actively engaged in enlarging 
and building up Short Hills (N. J.), an ideal home village, where he has great investments. 
One of the greatest business enterprises which have now entered upon their second cen- 
tury is the Barbour Bros. Co., founded in 1774, and now employing over 5,000 persons in 
its mills at Lisburn (Ireland), Ottensen (Germany), and Patcrson, N. J. The iiidiistiv was 
established in America by Thomas Barbour, in P -^F~=ffl?5v"'~" I 

1854, and has salesrooms and storehouses at Ne\\ j jj 

York, Boston, Chicago, Philadelphia, St. Louis, 
San Francisco and Montreal, with sales all over the 
continent, amounting to $3,000,000 a year. The 
Barbour Irish flax threads are used by boot and 
shoe and harness makers, book-binders, glove- 
makers, carpet-mills, clothiers and tailors, fisher- 
men, embroiderers, and everyone needing linen 
thread. Two valuable specialties are the twines 
made here for harnessing Jacquard looms, and for 
McKay machine sewing. At the Paterson mills the Irish flax is hackled and drawn down 
fine, twisted by women, tested and dyed, balled and wound on spools by automatic ma- 
chinery. The plant is said to be double that of any other linen-thread maker in the world. 
One of the most useful of recent inventions is celluloid, a tough, elastic and fairly 
hard material of various colors. It is not fibrous, but homogeneous, and grows harder by 
age. The Celluloid Company has large works at Newark, where 300 people are busied in 
making umbrella handles, collars and cuffs, mouth-pieces for pipes, manicure implements, 
and hundreds of familiar articles, useful and ornamental, in imitation of amber, coral, mal- 
achite, ivory, tortoise-shell, and other precious 
materials. The celluloid is as well adapted to 
these uses as the materials which it exactly sim- 
ulates, and more durable, besides being furnished 
at a small fraction of the cost. Collars and cuffs 
are made of linen, covered with a thin coating of 
pure white celluloid. The ingenious processes 
supply the people with a vast variety of beautiful 
and durable articles, at very low prices. The name 
"Celluloid" has been adopted by the company 
as its trade mark, and its right to it has been established by the Courts. The Celluloid Novelty 
Company retired from business in 1890, and was succeeded by the Celluloid Co., whose 
main offices are in New-York City. M. C. Lefferts is president, and F. R. Lefferts, treasurer. 




PATERSON ! BARBOUR BROS. CO. 




NEWARK : THE CELLULOID CO. 




The first white man in 

New Mexico was an officer 

of the ill-fated Florida ex- 
pedition of Narvaez, Cabeza 

de Vaca, who with three 

companions crossed Texas 

and the Pueblo region in 

1536, and reached Spanish 

Mexico. Three years later, 
Fray Marcos de Nizza visited Zuiii ; and in 1540 Coronado, 
the governor of New Galicia, marched into New Mexico, 
and conquered many towns by siege or assault. Bands of 
Franciscans founded missions among the savage tribes, and 
many won the crown of martyrdom. Their labors were 
rewarded by the rise of 40 churches, attended by 36,000 
native communicants. The first settlement was made by 
Don Juan de Onate, of Zacatecas, who marched from Mex- 
ico in 1598 with 400 Spanish soldiers and 130 families. 
The colony arose on the north of the Rio Chama, and bore 
the name of San Gabriel de los Espanoles. In 1605 the 
present capital was founded, under the name of La Ciudad 
Real de la Santa Fe de San Francisco. In 1680 Po-pe raised 
his Indian brethren in revolt, and drove the Spaniards from 
the territory. For twelve years the Pueblos defeated every 
advance of the Spaniards, but Gov. Diego de Vargas 
occupied the country with his army in 1692. 

When Mexico became independent, in 1822, New Mex- 
ico was governed by Political Chiefs, who, after 1S35, were 
appointed, instead of elected. The latter innovation, and a 
new direct taxation, caused the north to rise in revolt, and 
the rebels defeated Gov. Perez, and killed him and most 
of his officials, in 1837. Gen. Manuel Armijo afterwards 
crushed the rebellion, and held the governorship till 1847, 
when Kearny's Army of the West, marching 900 miles 
across the plains, from Missouri, occupied the Territory. New Mexico west of the Rio 
Grande belonged to the region ceded by Mexico to the United States in 1848 ; and the part 
east of the Rio Grande was ceded by Texas in 1850. In the latter year Congress organized 



Settled at San Gabriel 

Settled in . . . 

Founded by Spaniards. 

Organized as a Territory, 1850 

Population in i£6o, . . . 93,516 

In 1870 9I1874 

In 1880, 119,565 

White, 108,721 

Colored, 10,844 

American-born, . . . 111,514 
Foreign-born, ... 8,051 

Males, 64,496 

Females, 55,069 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), . 153,593 
Population to the square mile, i.o 
Voting Population (1880), . 34,076 
Net Public Debt, .... $900,000 
Taxable Property, . . . $47,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 122,580 
Delegate to Congress, 
Militia (Disciplined), 

Counties, 

Post-ofifices, .... 
Railroads (miles), . . 
Manufactures (yearljOi 

Operatives, . . . 
Farm Land (in acres), 

Farm-Land Values, 

Farm Products (yearly 
Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 12,300 

Newspapers 47 

Latitude 31^20' to 37' N. 

Longitude, . 103* 2' to 109° 2' W. 
Temperature, . . . — 159 to 1150 
Mean Temperature (Santa Fe'j 51° 

TEN CHIEF PLACE.S AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Santa Fe, 6,185 

Albuquerque (New), .... 3,785 

Las Vegas «... 2,385 

Las Cruces, ^,340 

East Las Vegas, ... , 2,312 

Silver City, . 2,102 

Albuquerque (Old), . . 1.733 

Socorro 1,601 

Raton 1,2^5 

Gallup, 1,208 



835 

16 

262 

1,324 

$1,300,000 

600 

■ 631,131 

$1,500,000 

) $2,000,000 



568 



AViVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




-3£2; 



SANTA CRuZ 



SHRINE AND CHURCH 



this Territory, covering New Mexico, as it now is ; 
Arizona, north of the Gila; Nevada, up to 37°; and the 
part of Colorado between 103°, the Arkansas River 
and the Rocky Mountains. In 1854 the Mexican cession 
of 1853 became part of New Mexico. The Colorado sec- 
tion was taken off in 1861 ; and Arizona and southern 
Nevada in 1863. 

The trade between Mi3souri and New Mexico, on the 
Santa-Fe Trail, began early in this century ; and the 
freight was carried on pack-animals until 1824, when mule and ox wagons ("prairie 
schooners ") came into use. Cotton cloths, dry-goods, and hardware were brought to the 
Southwest, and exchanged for Chihuahua silver bullion, New-Mexican gold-dust, buffalo- 
robes, blankets and wool. Up to 1 83 1 the American caravans started from Franklin (now 
Boonville), on the Missouri ; and afterwards from Independence. The usual route was up 
the Arkansas, then the Spanish frontier, which was crossed 400 miles out, after which the 
trail led across to the Cimarron, and struck for the great landmark of Wagon Mound, 
whence it passed Las Vegas and entered Santa Fe. The 800 miles of the journey outward 
took 70 days ; the return was made in 40 days, flying light. The caravan left the ren- 
dezvous at Council Grove in May, and reached Santa Fe in July, starting back in August. 
The attacks of Indians made it necessary to send strong escorts of dragoons, at times, for 
over $2,000,000 worth of goods were carried in a single caravan. As early as 1846 this 
trade employed 500 men, 400 wagons, 1,700 mules and 2,000 oxen. 

With singular loyalty to the Government that had _ _ . . ; ^ 

conquered them, the New-Mexicans took up arms for 
the Union, in 1861. Kit Carson, St. Vrain and other 
gallant frontiersmen helped to organize the Spanish 
volunteers and militia, under the Stars and Stripes. 
Some of the officers of the old army joined the South ; 
but of the 1,200 regular soldiers in New Mexico not one 
abandoned his allegiance. The governors, Rencherand 
Connelly, and the Legislature stood fast for the Union ; 
expunged the law protecting slavery ; and called out the militia to defend the National 
property. Early in 1862 Gen. H. F. Sibley advanced with 2,300 Texans, and defeated Col. 
Canby's larger Federal army at Valverde, routing his troops and taking their artillery. 
The heroic Texan infantry stormed and captured the regular battery with revolvers. Among 
the Union forces were Carson's First, Pino's Second, Valdez's Third, and parts of the Fourth 
and Fifth Regiments of New-Mexico volunteers. The Federals lost 263 men ; and a lofty 
monument to these patriots adorns the Plaza at Santa Fe. The Confederates then occupied 
Socorro and Albuquerque, and advanced northward, intending to seize the military supplies at 
Fort Union, and to cut off transcontinental communication between California and the East. 
But Slough's First Colorado (Pike's- Peakers) and the New-Mexican volunteers defeated them 
at La Glorieta (Apache Pass), and they retreated down the Rio Grande. Sibley occupied 
Santa Fe for a time ; but the people were so hostile, and provisions so scanty, that he 

retreated across the mountains and the Jornada del Muerto 
to Texas, havijig lost half his army. Gen. Carleton's Cali- 
fornia column, the First and Fifth California Infantry, the 
First California Cavalry, and a regular battery, marched east- 
ward from Los Angeles across Arizona, in 1862, and occu- 
pied Las Cruces and Mesilla, advancing 240 miles into Texas, 
as far as El Paso, Fort Quitman and Fort Bliss. This 
strong occupation held New Mexico for the Union safely, 

PUEBLO OF SANTA CLARA: , /^, , i i i ^ J- 1 j j 

ANCIENT CHURCH. ^"^ most of the 6,000 local volunteers were disbanded. 





THE TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. 



569 




SANTA FE : THE OLDEST DWELLING 
HOUSE IN THE UNITED STATES. 



With the Atchison Railroad came an army of adventurous 
Americans, whose achievements in stock-raising and farming, 
mining and town-building, aroused the Spanish residents to 
new life and activity, and the development of the Territory 
has since gone forward rapidly, especially since the subju- 
gation of the Apaches. The uncertainty as to land-titles 
has worked against the settlement of New Mexico. The 
United States, by the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, agreed 
to protect property-holders; and 10,000,000 acres are now 
claimed under old Spanish grants, but cannot be assured 
until the Territory is fully surveyed and titles confirmed. 

The Name, Nuevo Mexico, was given by Espejo, one 
of the early Spanish explorers, because of the resemblance of the country to the mining re- 
gions of Mexico. It is first met in Padre Rodriguez's Testimonio, in 1 582-3. A popular 
pet name is The Sunshine State, or The land of Sunshine and Silver. 

The Arms of New Mexico bear the American eagle, with its olive-branch and arrows, 
and the Mexican eagle, standing on the cactus and strangling a serpent. The motto is : 
Crescit Eundo : "It increases by going." 

The Governors included 76 Spanish and Mexican nobles and gentlemen. Then came 
the American Territorial governors: Charles Bent, 1 846-7 ; Lieut. -Col. J. M. Washington 
(military), 1848-9; Maj. John Munroe, 1849-50; James S. Calhoun, 1851-2; Wm. Carr 

Lane, 1852-4; David Meriwether, 1854-7; Abra- 
ham Rencher, 1857-61 ; Henry Connelly, 186 1-5 ; 
W^m. F. M. Amy (acting), 1865-6; Robert B. Mit- 
chell, 1866-7; Wm. A. Pile, 1869-71 ; Marsh Gid- 
dings, 1871-5 ; Samuel B. Axtell, 1875-9; Lewis 
Wallace, 1879-82; Lionel A. Sheldon, 1 882-5 ; 
E. G. Ross, 1885-9; andL. Bradford Prince, 1889-93. 
Descriptive. — New Mexico is larger than Great 
Britain and Ireland united, three times as large as all 
New England, and equal in area to New York, Penn- 
sylvania and Ohio combined. Mountain-ranges trav- 
erse the Territory, and give diversity to its semi-Oriental scenery. The Sangre-de-Cristo range 
enters from Colorado, andrunsnearly to Santa Fe, with Costilla Peak, 12,61 5 feet; Taos Peak, 
13,145; Mora, 12,020; Truchas, 13, 150; Jicarilla, 14,162; and Baldy, 12,661. The Raton 
Range runs eastward along the Colorado border. Below Santa Fe, the Chilili, Manzano, 
Oscuro, San Andreas and Organ Mountains form an almost continuous range on the east 
of the Rio Grande, finally crossing the river at El Paso, and entering Mexico. In the south- 
east are the Sacramento, Jicarilla, Guadalupe, and Hueco mountains, and the Sierra Blanca 
and Sierra Capitan. West of the Rio Grande line after line of noble peaks swells up to the 
westward until the Carrizo, Tunicha and Chusca Ranges form the continental divide of the 
Sierra Madre, whence streams flow to the Gulf of California and the Gulf of Mex- 
ico. The plateaus are covered with wild gramma 
and other grasses, but grow arid and desolate 
towards the west. Some of these plains are over- 
spread with sage-brush, and others bear many 
leagues of pifion and stunted cedar. The mountains 
rise from vast plateaus of lava, and are deeply gashed 
by canons, and dimpled by lovely park-valleys. The 
mean elevation above the .sea is 5,600 feet, and 2, 500 
square miles are more than 10,000 feet high. Fully 
14,000,060 acres are in mountains, and 4,000,000 




SANTA FE ; CHURCH OF SAN MIGUEL. 




TAOS PUEBLO. 



57° 



AVm7'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




ORAIBA : EASTERN COURT. 



are irreclaimable deserts, or grazing lands, leaving 
39,000,000 acres of irrigable domain. Two thirds of 
the Territory is open for settlement. East of the Rio 
Grande stretch frowning leagues of Mai Pais (or " Bad 
Country"), covered with lava, volcanic sand and salt- 
marshes. The Jornada del Muerto (or "Journey of 
Death ") is a tract of 90 by 40 miles in area, between San 
Marcial and Rincon, surrounded by vast mountain-ranges, 
and once sadly celebrated for the number of men and 
animals v^^ho died of thirst on its lonely deserts. The 
broad San- Augustin Plains are in the west ; and around 
Deming occur other level tracts of vast extent. 

The Rio Grande, ' ' the Nile of the New World, " flows south 356 miles through the centre 
of New Mexico. After leaving the San-Luis Park, it rushes through a profound canon in 
the lava-beds, and then follows a narrow valley to P^ort Craig, beyond which much of its 
course lies through canons down to Rincon. After a dry summer, the Rio Grande is dry for 
100 miles above El Paso, the water having all been taken out by irrigating ditches. The Rio 
Pecos, 800 miles long, is a source of enrichment to the eastern counties. The Canadian 
River rises in the Sangre-de-Cristo Mountains, and flows east 200 miles in New Mexico. 
There are some fine farming lands in this section, and in the tributary valleys of the Verm- 
ejo and Little Cimarron, and in the Mora Valley, which 
is 65 miles long and five miles wide. The rivers of the 
west, tributary to the Colorado, are the Gila, San-Fran- 
cisco and Zuni, with valuable bottom-lands, which also 
appear along the San-Juan, in the far northwest. This 
pastoral country is carpeted with nutritious grasses, 
and the climate is so mild that no winter-shelter is 
needed for the flocks. In former times, cattle and 
sheep ranged the free plains for leagues, but now in 
many sections the herds are confined to fenced tracts. 
The Great Plains enter on the northeast, and are pro- 
longed by the famous Llano Estacado, or Staked Plain, 
a treeless and waterless grassy plateau of 44,000 square miles, nearly 5,000 feet above the 
sea. In some localities water cannot be found for 40 miles, and the cattle drink but twice 
a week. The Staked Plain derives its name from the stiff boles of the yucca plant. Sheep 
are found in every county, and numbered 2,000,000 in 1888, producing 8,000,000 pounds of 
wool yearly. Vast flocks are owned by the Navajo Indians. In the old days, a million sheep 
were driven hence to Mexico every year, and sold for 25 cents a head ; but now they are sent 
to the States, and bring $2 each. They are small and coarse-wooled, and feed on gramma 
and bunch grasses and sage-brush. With the occupation of large areas by immigrants, the 

cattle-ranges have been restricted, but the number of 
cattle has steadily increased, and is now estimated at 
above 1,200,000. 

New Mexico has an abundant supply of timber, the 
tall, straight pines of the highlands, the cottonwoods 
and quaking aspens, cedars and oaks, walnuts and 
maples, and others. The higher mountains bear great 
forests of evergreens. The goblin-like yucca palm of 
the deserts is valuable for paper-making. 

The Climate is remarkably dry, salubrious and 

bracing, with an atmosphere of great clearness and 

woLPi : DANCERS' ROCK. purity. Meat hung up outdoors dries without taint. 




HE MESA : THE SITE OF ZUNI. 





THE TERRITORY OE NEW MEXICO. 

Santa Fe sometimes experiences as cold weather in 
winter as New York, because it is higher than the top 
of Mt. Washington. The towns farther south are lower, 
and hence much warmer. There is a period between 
mid- July and mid- September, when the sunny mornings 
are followed by long showery afternoons. Snow rarely 
visits the lowlands ; and the general rainfall on the 
plains, of from eight to 22 inches, is inadequate for 
farming purposes. There are fewer deaths here from 
tubercular diseases than anywhere else in the United 
States. The hot days of the lowlands are not debili- a moqui village. 

tating, on account of their dryness, and are followed by cool and bracing nights. The climate 
is healing for people with consumption, asthma, bronchitis, Bright's disease and general de- 
bility; but aggravates rheumatism, catarrh and heart-disease. Almost any variety of temper- 
ature maybe found by changing altitude, from the Italy of the valleys to the Norway of the 
Sierras. The air is so clear that it is difficult to estimate the distances of visible objects. 

Farming. — The narrow valleys of the Rio Grande, San- Juan, Pecos, Canadian and 
other rivers are dowered with arable land of unusual fertility, prolific in grain and vegeta- 
bles. The fruits are famous for their extraordinary size and beauty, and include vast quan- 
tities of grapes, peaches, apples, apricots, pears, melons, and quinces. The yearly product 
of wine exceeds 240,000 gallons. The Mesilla Valley, 70 miles long, is one of the richest 

farming countries in the world, especially for grains, 
fruits and grapes. The temperature never descends be- 
low 15°, and snow seldom falls, and never remains. The 
valleys are composed of a rich sandy loam, light and 
porous, and very productive of corn, wheat, barley, oats 
and vegetables. The onions and sweet and white pota- 
toes are prodigious in size, and cabbages sometimes 
weigh 60 pounds each. Beans grow so profusely as to 
form the chief diet. The cereal crop of New Mexico is 
greater than those of Colorado or Montana. 
Mining. — The New-Mexican output of bullion is continually increasing. In 1886 it 
was f 3,822,000; in 1887, $4,229,000; in 1888, $6,220,000 ; in 1889, $8,110,000. Precious 
metals are found in the hill country, and were extensively mined by the Spaniards, until 
1680, when the victorious Pueblos filled up all the shafts. The Moreno gold placers of 
Elizabethtown produced much treasure ; and the region of Pinos Altos and Silver City, in 
the southwest, has also been generous. Gold-mines are worked at many points, but chiefly 
from placers, and there are large milling and smelting plants. Silver and lead are mined 
at Kingston, Magdalena, Cerrillos, Cook's Peak, and Sierra Blanca. The ores are less rich, 
but also less refractory, than those of Colorado. Tht cxtLHsne etnl helds of Los Cerrillos 
supply localities as far away as Missouri and Mex- 
ico, with valuable anthracite, and produce bitumi- 
nous coal also. In the vicinity are promising 
deposits of iron, copper, lead, zinc and silver. 
White Oaks has contiguous deposits of coal and 
iron, with gold and other valuable minerals. The 
Gallup coal-mines produce 300,000 tons a year. 
There are coal-mines at Blossburg and Amargo, 
in the north, and at San Pedro, near Santa Fe. 
The copper-mines at San Pedro have produced at 
the rate of $700,000 a year, and there are valua- 
able dep'osits at Santa Rita. Elsewhere are found chamita ; old mill. 




ALBUQUERQUE : THE CATHEDRAL AND PLAZA. 




572 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 







RATON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 



marl and gypsum, zinc and manganese, with 
lead in the Organ Mountains, iron at Pinos 
Altos and Embudo, copper in the MogoUon, 
Manzano and Picuris Mountains, and tin in 
Rio - Arriba County. The close-grained red 
sandstone of the Rio-Grande Valley affords a 
handsome building material ; and there a t val- 
uable deposits of limestone, marble and slate. 
The turquoise-mines, 25 miles south of Santa 
Fe,were worked during the Spanish occupation, 
and the handsomest turquoise in Europe (now in the regalia of Spain) came from this 
wilderness. 

The Las-Vegas Hot-Springs bubble out on a plateau of the Rocky Mountains, 6, 767 feet 
high, and have been used as a health-resort since 1846. The great Montezuma Hotel has 
been replaced by the Phoenix Hotel, one of the finest in the West. There are 40 springs, 
the hottest being 130°; and the mineral constituents include chlorides, sulphates, and car- 
bonates of sodium, calcium and magnesium. The baths are of various kinds, mud, medicated 
and others, in a spacious red-granite bath-house ; and people also drink the waters freely. 
Benefit is derived by sufferers from rheumatism, gout, skin diseases, debility, and other 
maladies. The winters are mild, dry and windless ; and the noble scenery of mountain and 
plain, the attractions for hunters and anglers, and the strange traditions of the Mexican 
country afford a variety of interest. Among the other hot springs with hotels and accommo- 
dations are the Ojo Caliente, Jemez, San Antonio, Hudson's Hot Springs, Baca's Soda 
Springs, and the Aztec mineral spring, near Santa Fe. 

Government. — The governor and secretary are appointed by the President. The council 
of twelve and the house of representatives of 24 members make up the legislature (usually 
Republican), elected biennially. The legislature is almost entirely composed of natives, 
naturally eloquent and naturally economical, and 33 out of 36 of them understanding the 
English language. There are six territorial officials, and groups of minor county officials. 
The Supreme Court has four justices, and there are also probate and district courts. The 
new Territorial Capital at Santa Fe was erected at a cost of $250,000, and is of buff sand- 
stone. The Territorial Library contains 10,000 volumes. The A'eiv-Mexican Printing Co. 
at Santa Fe publishes the oldest newspaper between the upper Arkansas and Colorado Rivers; 
prints the territorial laws in English and Spanish ; and has a book -bindery. There are three 
Spanish papers published at Santa Fe, one at Taos, and one at Las Vegas. The 28th Legis- 
lative Assembly created the following institutions, and levied taxes for their support : The 
Agricultural College, near Las Cruces (now open) ; the School of Mines, at Socorro ; the 
University of New Mexico, at AlhuqucniUL' ; and tlio Insane Asylum, at Las ^"e^as. The 
New-Mexico School for the Deaf If: 
and Dumb is at Santa Fe, where 
there is also a Territorial hospital, 
and the penitentiary. 

The United-States army posts are 
Fort Bayard, with six companies ; 
Forts Union and Wingate, five com- 
panies each ; Fort Stanton, and 
Fort Selden, three companies each. 
The headquarters of the military 
district is at vSanta F6, where the 
infantry band makes pleasant music 
on the plaza. The garrisons in- 
clude 1,500 men. santa fe, from the college. 




THE TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. 



573 




SANTA FE . RAMONA INDIAN SCHOOL. 



Hducation is backward, but a strong and rising pop- 
ular sentiment has insured a vigorous enforcement of the 
laws, and a careful expenditure of the school-taxes. 
Of the schools, 150 are English and 120 Spanish. The 
Catholic colleges at Mora, Las Vegas, Taos and Santa 
Y& have 600 students ; and the Congregational (New 
West) academies at Albuquerque, Deming, Santa Fe 
and Las Vegas have 400. Santa-Fe Academy is Pres- 
byterian ; and Tiptcnville Institute and Albuquerque College are Methodist. The Ramona 
Indian School (for Apaches) at Santa Fe is aided by the United-States Government. The 
building was designed by Stanford WTiite, and is a memorial of Helen Hunt Jackson. The 
Catholic Church has a score of schools, the Presbyterians have 25, and others pertain to the 
Methodists. St. -Joseph's Catholic School, with 60 Pueblo children, is partly supported by 
the Government, which also has industrial schools for Indians at Santa Fe and Albuquerque. 
It is natural that in this venerable Spanish province the Catholic Church has a predom- 
inant power, with handsome churches, profitable ranches and fruit-estates, and many hos- 
pitals and schools, conducted by Sisters of Charity, Sisters of Loretto, Christian Brothers, 
and Jesuits. The ruins of the churches of San Diego and San Joseph are still visible near 
Jemez, after 280 years ; and the walls of the great stone churches of Abo, Cuaray and Ta- 
bira, built before 1640, tower over the salt lagoons of Manzano. The austere secret fraternity 
of the Penitentes still amazes Eastern tourists with the periodical self-mortifications of its 
adherents, and defies the attempts of the Catholic Church to exterminate it. Archbishop 
Lamy has nobly elevated the morals and education of the clergy from the time of his entry. 
There are active presses at Santa Fe, Las Vegas and Albuquerque, printing many devo- 
tional and other books, in the Spanish language. El Crepiisctilo ("The Dawn"), published 
at Taos in 1835, was the only newspaper in New Mexico before the American conquest. 

The Population includes 100,000 Mexicans, with a highly educated and progressive 
aristocracy and a poorer class rising slowly in comfort and ability. The recent enormous 
increase in the value of their farm-products has enabled these people to improve their homes, 
clothing and stock. They are contented and unambitious, but generous, hospitable and 
agreeable. The semi-civilized Pueblo race has for several centuries occupied the fertile 
valleys of the northwest, with their communal houses of stone and adobe. They were once 
a numerous people, with villages also in Arizona and Chihuahua, Colorado and Utah ; but 
a series of droughts and pestilences, and wars with the Apaches and the Spaniards, reduced 
them to a shadow of their former greatness. The Pueblos still occupy the oldest towns in 
America, and are a gentle, honest and industrious race of farmers. The native pottery, cot- 
ton and woolen clothing and blankets and other primitive manufactures are ingenious and 
interesting. The 8,000 Pueblos dwell in 19 -v-'Uages, owning 906,000 acres of land by an 
absolute title, with many thousand horses, cattle and sheep, and productive farms. Of late 

years, since American law pacified the country, many of 
them have abandoned their fortress-villages, and dwell on 
their farms, wearing modern clothing, using the latest agri- 
cultural tools, and educating their children in the schools. 
They have also built roads, bridges and canals. One in 15 
of them can speak a little English, but nearly all are familiar 
with Spanish. The Pueblo villages at the time of the 
Spanish occupation were single huge buildings of adobe or 
stone, perched on high and defensive ground, sometimes 
surrounding hollow squares, and composed of a great num- 
ber of rooms, with larger council-halls. The lower stories 
^-^--.^■s&fct}-^^^ had no doors nor windows, and the upper stories were 

SANTA FE : THE CATHEDRAL. visltcd Only by ladders. Each village is ruled by an elective 




574 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



governor and three other officers. The 25,000 Navajoes own 8,000,000 acres, but do very 
little farming, preferring to earn money by selling horses and wool. They are famous for 
the fine blankets which they weave, and for the skill of their silver-smiths. Their wonder- 
ful Fire Dances form the most interesting of Indian ceremonials. There are two tribes of 
Apaches here : 800 Jicarillas, near Amargo, in the north ; and 500 Mescaleros. 

Chief Towns. — Santa Fe occupies a mountain-walled basin, 20 miles from the Rio 
Grande, and 7,019 feet above the sea, with a delightful climate. One half of the inhabitants 
are Mexicans, dwelling in low adobe houses, on narrow little streets. The Plaza has shops 
on three sides, and on the other the ancient Palacio del Gobernador (the seat of government 
since 1680), a long, low, white adobe building. Part of the old palace is used by the His- 
torical Society of New Mexico ; and in one of the rooms Lew Wallace wrote the famous 
novel Ben Hiir. Las Vegas, with its horse-cars and telephones, foundries and railroads, 
colleges and churches, is an active city, and hopes to rival Denver. Albuquerque has two 
daily papers, street-cars, six churches, railroad machine-shops employing 2,000 men, and a 
central place in the great Rio-Grande Valley, with a valuable trade in corn and wine, wool 
and gold. Socorro is devoted to mining ; Silver City, to smelting and reducing works ; Las 
Cruces, to fruit-raising and farming ; and Deming, to mining and stock-shipping. 

The Atchison, Topeka & Santa-Fe Railroad and the Southern Pacific Railroad traverse 
the entire Territory, from east to west. The Denver, Texas & Fort-Worth line crosses the 
northeast, and the Denver & Rio-Grande has many miles of track in the north. 

Irrigation. — At certain seasons the Rio Grande floods down the valley with devastating 
power, and carries off enough water to have irrigated all summer long its vast water-shed. 
Plans are being matured for a system of wing-dams, storage-basins and canals, to save and 
distribute the waters ; and many large and costly irrigating ditches are in operation. 

The great canals of the Pecos Irrigation & Investment Co., built in 1889-91, distribute 
the perennial waters of the Pecos River, stored behind Cyclopean stone dams, over 200,000 
acres of rich land. The canals are nearly 100 miles long, with laterals at every mile or so, 
opening into smaller channels. The company has a capital of $1,000,000, and owns no 

land, confining itself 
to distributing water, 
selling its water- 
rights at $ I o an acre, 
with a yearly water- 
rental of $1.25 
for each acre. The 
operating headquar- 
ters is at Eddy, 
named in honor of 
Charles E. Eddy, 
the prime mover in 
this enterprise. 
Here in two years 
has risen a town of 

GREAT DAM AND CANAL, AND TOWN OF EDDY. PECOS IRRIGATION AND INVESTMENT CO. 7 OO p C O p 1 C, f O U T 

churches, several stores, and commodious bank and hotel buildings. Thousands of acres in 
the valley have lately passed under cultivation, and produce unsurpassed fruits and vines, 
grains and vegetables. The company's dam across the Pecos is of rock, 1,050 feet long, 
and 181 feet wide at the base, and backs up the water for several miles. The enormous head- 
gates controlling the flow of water are raised or lowered by screws, and the main canal issues 
with a depth of seven feet and a width of over 45 feet. These invaluable irrigation works 
will make the Pecos Valley one of the greatest fruit regions and vineyards of the world ; and 
the new railroads are opening up vast areas of exceptionally fertile and picturesque lands. 





PETRCI5 STOYVESANT 



"To-day, in the sisterhood 

of States, she is an Empire in 

all that constitutes a great com- 
monwealth. An industrious, 

intelligent, and prosperous 

population of five millions of 

people live within her borders. 

In the value of her farms and 

farm-products, and in her 

manufacturing industries, she 
is the first State in the Union. She sustains over 1,000 
newspapers and periodicals, has $80,000,000 invested 
in church property, and spends $12,000,000 a year upon 
popular education. Upward of 300 academies and colleges 
fit her youth for special professions, and furnish opportuni- 
ties for liberal learning and the highest culture; and stately 
edifices all over the State, dedicated to humane and benevo- 
lent objects, exhibit the permanence and extent of her or- 
ganized charities. There are $600,000,000 in her savings- 
banks; $300,000,000 in her insurance companies, and 
$700,000,000 in the capital and loans of her State and 
National Banks. Six thousand miles of railroads, costing 
$600,000,000, have penetrated and developed every acces- 
sible corner of the State, and maintain against all rivalry 
and competition her commercial prestige." — Hon. Chaun- 
CEY M. Depew. 

Before the advent of the Europeans, the territory from 
the Catskills to Lake Erie, including also part of northern 
Pennsylvania, belonged to the powerful Iroquois Confeder- 
acy, the Mohawks, resting along the Hudson ; the Oneidas ; 
the Onondagas, with the national capital, near the site of 
Syracuse ; the Cayugas ; and the Senecas, guarding the 
western frontier. These were the Five Nations of the 
ancient explorers, which afterwards became the Six Na- 
tions, by the addition of the Tuscarora tribe, from North Carolina. Each of the tribes had 
several hereditary sachems (the national council, including 50 sachems), and retained the 
rights of 'self-government, the federal union being mainly for military protection and con- 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at ... . New York City. 

Settled in 1613 

Founded by ... . Dutchmen. 
One of tlie Original 13 States. 
Population in i860, . . . 3,880,735 

In 1870, 4,382,759 

In 1880, 5,082,871 

White, 5,016,022 

Colored, 66,849 

American-born, . . . 3,871,492 
Foreign-born, .... 1,211,379 

Males 2,505,322 

Females, 2.577,549 

In i8qo (U. S. Census), . 5,997,853 

Population to the square mile, 106.7 

Voting Population, . . . 1,408,7m 

Vote for Harrison (188?), 648,969 

Vote for Cleveland (1888), 635,835 

Net State Debt None. 

Assessed Valuation of 

Property (in 1890), $3,775,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 49,170 
U. S. Representatives (in 1893), 34 
Militia (Disciplined), . . 13,685 

Counties, 60 

Post-offices, 3,506 

Railroads (miles), .... 7,66i 

Vessels, 5,258 

Tonnage 1,136,154 

Manufactures (j'early), $1,080,638,696 

Operatives 531,473 

Yearly Wages, . . $198,634,029 
Farm Land (in acres), . 23,780,754 
Farm-Land Values, $1,056,176,741 
Farm Products (yearly) $178,025,695 
Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 637,487 

Newspapers, i,95o 

Latitude, . 40°29'4o" to 45°o'42" N. 
Longitude, 7i°5i' to 79"45'54'' W. 
Temperature, . . . — 23° to 100^ 
Mean Temperature (Albany), 48" 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). 

New York, 1,515,301 

Brooklyn, 806,343 

Buffalo, 255,664 

Rochester, 133,896 

Albany 94,923 

Syracuse, 88,143 

Troy, 60,956 

Utica, 44,007 

Binghamton, 35,005 

Yonkers, 32,033 



S76 



KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




TAPPAN : 
HOUSE WHERE MAJOR ANDRE WAS TRIED. 



quest. Collectively, they called themselves "The Peoj)le 
of the Long House," whose eastern door was at the mouth 
of the Mohawk, and its western door at the Falls of Ni- 
agara. They also spoke of themselves as Oitgwe-Hoiiwe, 
"Men surpassing all others"; and deduced their origin 
from the serpent-haired god, Atotarho, and their con- 
federate power from Hiawatha, an Onondaga demi-god. 
Many other celestial traditions were woven about their 
early history. The Iroquois built frame cabins and strong 
defensive works ; tilled broad fields ; made stone axes and 
knives; tanned leather; baked pottery; wore moccasins of deer-skin and shoes of elk- 
hide ; and made ropes and baskets of bark, domestic implements of carved wood, armor of 
Lather, money of sea-shells, and smoking-pipes of stone. Although they numbered but 
12,000 souls, with 2,400 warriors (1,200 of whom were Senecas), their land was the Empire 
State of America, then, as now, for their indomitable war-parties swept victoriously alike 
through New England and Canada, Pennsylvania and the Ohio Valley, and from Nova 
Scotia to the mouth of the Mississippi. If the Europeans had not dis- 
covered America for another century, the Five Nations might have per- 
manently subjugated all the Eastern tribes. 

The Iroquois had a well-defined religion, with the Great Spirit as its 
head ; and believed in immortality in the happy hunting-grounds. They 
respected woman ; honored matrimony and the family ; cherished chil- 
dren and aged people ; and practiced a chivalric hospitality. They 
were natural orators and diplomatists ; and in time this wonderful 
confederacy became the shield of English civilization in America, 
defending it with Roman courage against the French and their 
Indian allies. Queen Anne received five of their sachems at Lon- 
don, in 1 710, with high honor; and Virginia, Pennsylvania, Con- 
necticut, Massachusetts, and New York made treaties with the 
great council, securing gradually, by purchase and cession, emi- 
nent domain over all their territory. Dwelling now upon their 
reservations they number almost as many as in the glorious days Saratoga battle monument. 
of their sovereignty, and are increasing. Most of the Mohawks and Tuscaroras and a few 
Chieidas dwell in Canada ; and 1,700 Oneidas are at Green Bay, Wisconsin. The 5,304 Indi- 
ans now on reservations in New York include 2, 700 Senecas, 540 Onondagas, 400 Tusca- 
roras, 200 Cayugas, and 300 Oneidas, besides 1,100 of the St.-Regis tribe, and 100 others. 
Long Island was occupied by 13 small tribes of Indians — the 
Montauks, Jamekos, Matinecocks, Shinnecocks, and others — of whom 
a few score still remain, on the eastern point. There were other inde- 
pendent tribes on Manhattan and along the lower Hudson. 

The discoverer of the sea-coast of New York was Henry Hudson, 
an English captain, in the service of the Dutch East-India Company, 
who sailed from the Texel, in the 90-ton vessel. Half Moon, in the 
year 1609. He explored various points, from Greenland to the Carp- 
linas, and then sailed into the noble harbor of Manhattan. After as- 
cending the Hudson to Albany, in the hope that it was the long-sought 
Northwest Passage, the intrepid discoverer returned to Manhattan, 
and thence to England. He met with a kindly welcome from most of 
the Indians whom he visited at several points on the river. Various 
Amsterdam merchants sent out the Foriiuie and Tiger, in 1612, to 
NEW YORK • statue OF ^radc with the Manhattan natives for furs, and made great profits. But 
admiral farragut. in 1613 the Tiger was burnt, while preparing to sail back to Holland, 




schuylerville 





TARRYTOWN ; OLD DUTCH i 
IN SLEEPY HOLLOW. 



THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 

and her crew, under Adriaen Block, passed the winter at Man- 
hattan, in log huts, and built another vessel, the 0/irust, with 
which they explored the New-England coast, and then fared 
homeward to the Low Countries. Other knights-errant of 
commerce erected fortified trading-posts at Manhattan and 
Fort Nassau (Albany), in 1614; and in the same year the States 
General of Holland issued a charter to a company of Amster- 
dam and Hoorn merchants, covering the region between 
Virginia and New France, and naming it New N^etherland. 
The colonists met the Iroquois chiefs at Tawasentha, and 
made a treaty of amity, which endured for over 100 years. 
The Dutch West-India Company was organized in 1623, with 
vast powers and prerogatives, and forthwith sent out the ship Neiu N'etherland, with 1 10 
Walloon colonists, who reached Manhattan in May, 1623. The English laid claim to this 
region, because the discoverer was an Englishman, but their demands were placidly ignored ; 
and then France also sent over a ship to take possession, but the artillery of the Dutch ves- 
sel Mackerel drove her out to sea. The Walloons scattered in groups over the country, some 
at Breuckelen (Brookland, now Brooklyn), others at Kingston, Albany, and Hartford, and 
on the Delaware. After the annual directorships of May and Verhulst, Peter Minuit came 
over on the Sea Mew, and became the first governor, purchasing Manhattan Island from the 
natives for $24, and erecting New Netherland into a province of Holland. Then followed 
the fortification of the town, and the wars with the neighboring Indians. 

The order of patroons came into being in 1629, and imposed on the Hudson Valley a 
line of feudal chieftains. Van Rensselaer, Pauw, DeVries, Godyn, and other Dutch gentle- 
men. The Swedes menaced the colony on the south, and the Puritans on the east, and the 
Indians, enraged at repeated deadly forays by the Dutch troops, swept the outer settlements 
into ruin. Then came over as governor, the gallant soldier, Peter Stuyvesant, with his 
silver-mounted wooden leg ; and inaugurated a wise, honest and despotic rule, visiting also 
the New-Englanders and Swedes, and conciliating the Indians. He named the" capital of 
his colony Nexv Amsterdam, and defended it by a palisade along Wall Street. In 1664 a 
British fleet and army took possession of the town (then numbering 1,500 inhabitants^. 
Nine years later, a Dutch fleet of 23 vessels recaptured it, but it was restored to England a few 
months later ; and Sir Edmond Andros ruled the conquered province with vigor for nine 
years. Meanwhile, the French, under Frontenac and the Marquis de Denonville, Viceroy 
of Canada, were campaigning against the Five Nations, and fought many a hard battle in 
interior New York. At last, in the dead of the winter of 1690, 200 Frenchmen and 
Canadian Indians attacked the Dutch village of Schenectady, and massacred 63 persons. 
New York and New England and the Iroquois assailed 
Canada by land and water, but were repulsed by the 
valiant Frontenac, who dealt heavy return blows in the 
Mohawk Valley, and at Onondaga Lake. These bor- 
der-wars lasted for many years. 

Some of the most tragic events of the last French 
War (1754-60), occurred on the New- York frontier, 
where the French occupied Fort Ticonderoga, on Lake 
George ; Fort Frontenac (Kingston), on the St. Law- 
rence ; and Niagara ; while the English held Fort Ed- 
ward, on the upper Hudson, and Oswego. In 1755, 
Sir William Johnson crushed Baron Dieskau's army, 
near Lake George ; but a year later France destroyed 
Oswego ; and in 1757, her troops captured Fort W^illiam 

^T , T 1 /"• X 1 • IRVINGTON : SUNNYSIOE, THE HOME OF WASH- 

tlenry (on Lake George), whose garrison was massacred ington irvino. 




578 




LAKE GEORGE. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

by the Indians. The next year saw Col. Brad- 
street's reduction of Fort Frontenac ; but Lord 
Abercrombie and his magnificent army of 15,000 
men suffered defeat, in an assault on Fort Ticon- 
deroga. In 1759 the French were forever swept 
away from the frontiers, Johnson occupying Ni- 
agara, and Lord Amherst's army taking the aban- 
doned fortresses of Ticonderoga and Crown Point, whose lonely ruins still overlook the fair 
blue narrows of Lake Champlain, under the shadows of austere highlands. 

On the eve of the Revolution the Sons of Liberty in New York made many spirited 
protests against the royal aggressions, and fought the soldiers on Golden Hill, some weeks 
before the Boston massacre of 1770. The Nancy, bearing taxed tea from England, put 
about off Sandy Hook and sailed home again, not venturing to enter the rebel bay. The 
Provincial Assembly remained loyal to the King, until its final adjournment in 1775. The 
Sons of Liberty seized the custom-house and arsenal, and forbade vessels leaving the 
harbor with provisions for the British troops beleaguered in Boston ; and the Green-Mount- 
ain Boys from Vermont captured the royal fortresses of Ticonderoga and Crown Point. 
Wooster's Connecticut militia marched to Harlem and went into camp, and overawed the 
Tories of New York. The frigate Asia lay in the stream and bombarded the city with 
destructive broadsides ; and Gov. Tryon finally fled from the exasperated citizens, and set up 
his government in the cabin of this noisy war-ship, saying that "The Americans, from 
politicians, are now becoming soldiers." The New-York Line of the Continental army 
numbered five regiments. 

The Six Nations were kept loyal to the Crown, by Sir William Johnson, an Irish 
knight, to whom the King had granted 100,000 acres in the Mohawk Valley. He 
married the sister of Brant, the famous Mohawk chief, and lived in rude baronial state at 
Johnson Hall. After his death, his nephew, Col. Guy Johnson, and his son. Sir John 
Johnson, entered the British service with 500 Indian warriors. Early in 1776, Gen. 
Schuyler marched up the Mohawk Valley with 3,000 militia, and disarmed Johnson's 300 
Scottish retainers, and took away their artillery, to avert danger from the frontiers. 

Gen. Montgomery advanced down Lake 
Champlain with 1,000 Americans, and reduced 
St. Johns and Montreal, but suffered defeat and 
death before the frowning walls of Quebec. 
Early in 1776 Gen. Charles Lee occupied New 
York with an American force. Washington 
led his army of 18,000 men from reclaimed 
Boston] to defend New York ; and on the 9th 
of July the Declaration of Independence was 
read aloud by an aide, in his presence, to a brigade of the 
Continental army, drawn up in hollow square on the site of 
the City Hall. The same day the citizens pulL d down the 
equestrian statue of George III., erected on Bowlmg Green 
in 1770, and it was made into bullets, so that the lojal forces 
for a time "had melted majesty hurled at them " But by 
August Gens. Clinton and Howe reached Sand) Hook, \Mth 
30,000 British and German troops; occupied Statcn Island 
in force ; and sent frigates up the Hudson. Landmg on I ong 
Island with 20,000 men, they crushed the 9,000 Americans 
under Putnam, holding the fortified lines back of Brooklyn, 
after a long and bloody battle. The 14th Massachusetts (Marblehead) Regiment saved the 
army by ferrying it across the East River during the following night ; and Washington 




1 




FORT TICONDEROGA 

SiTE OF TnE CO.ERED -AY AHERE 

ETHAN ALLEN ENTERED. 



THE STATE OF- NEW YORK. 



579 




HUDSON HIGHLANDS ; NORTHERN ENTRANCE. 



fortified Harlem Heights, and beat off the enemy, until 
their flanking tactics compelled him to fall back uito 
Westchester (where he fought a battle at White Plains), 
and afterwards into New Jersey. Soon afterwards, Fort 
Washington, near Harlem River, was stormed and cap- 
tured by the British, with its garrison of 2,ooo men. It 
had been held by the order of Congress, and against Wash- 
ington's command to evacuate. Thenceforward for seven 
years the hostile army retained possession of the city, 
closely observed by American forces on the Hudson. 

In the summer of 1777 Sir John Burgoyne led an army of 9,000 Britons and Germans 
southward from Canada, to sever New England from the other colonies by winning and 
keeping the line of the Hudson. Fort Ticonderoga fell before his advance ; but the brave 
Gen. Schuyler, with 4, 500 Americans, retarded the grand triumphal march at every strategic 
point. Burgoyne formed an intrenched camp near Saratoga, and was beleaguered by Gen. 
Gates and 10,000 New- York and New-England troops, who won two decisive victories over 
the invaders, and then compelled them to surrender, 3,387 Britons, 2,412 Germans, six 
members of Parliament, and several nobles, with 42 guns, and a great quantity of military 
stores. The British loss in the campaign exceeded 10,000 men. The army remained in 
captivity until the end of the war, first in Massachusetts, and then in Virginia. Meantime, 

Sir Henry Clinton, advancing north- 
ward from New York to meet Bur- 
goyne, stormed the forts at the High- 
lands, and near West Point, and 
burned Kingston. In 1779, he moved 
up the river again, with Admiral Sir 
George Collier's fleet, and fortified 
Stony Point, which was carried by 
storm soon afterward by Anthony 
Wayne, who assured Washington : 
COLD SPRING, ON THE HUDSON RIVER. << PU s^Q^m hcll if you'll plan it." 

As a corollary to Burgoyne's march. Col. St. Leger and the Royal Greens, and swarms 
of Indians, besieged Fort Stanwix (now Rome), and ambuscaded Herkimer's 800 Dutch 
militia, at Oriskany. The siege was raised by Benedict Arnold and 800 Massachusetts 
troops, who drove the enemy back to Lake Ontario in a disgraceful rout. The Mohawks 
and Tories filled the Schoharie Valley and the Otsego country with devastation and rapine, 
and perpetrated horrible massacres at Cherry Valley and the Valley of Wyoming, and the 
Minisink. Finally, Gens. Sullivan and Clinton led 5,000 Continentals into the Indian 
domain, and swept the Seneca-Lake country and the Genesee Valley with sword and torch. 
The enemy retaliated by destroying Canajoharie, Fort Plain, Caughnawaga, Stone Arabia, 
and Ballston, and laid waste broad areas of the Mohawk Valley, with pitiless fury. 

As the great war drew to a close, 10,000 Continentals 
lay in camp at Newburgh, where Washington nobly spurned 
a proposal to make him King of America. The army was 
disbanded in June, 1 783. November 25th, Sir Henry Clin- 
ton evacuated New York, and Washington occupied 
the city with his victorious troops. 

Massachusetts and Connecticut laid claim to the 
greater part of Western New York, by virtue of their 
original royal charters, which granted them jurisdiction 
westward to the Pacific Ocean. The Connecticut claim 
was summarily rejected; but by the Hartford Conven- catskill mis. : catskill-mountain house. 





58o 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



•tW f*^*t£ar-fc 






It 


ET^ 


^ 


tmlBLwia-im^'!^ ^>^i 


ijL 


i^^y 


H 


ifw^lB^S 


^P 


^JkflEM 


^^ 


^^^=^^LJ^^ 


p^ 



BULWAGGA BAY : LAKE 
CHAMPLAIN. 



tion of 1786, New York received from Massachusetts the 
"government, sovereignty and jurisdiction" over 6,ocx3,cx)0 
acres, and gave to Massachusetts and her grantees the right of 
pre-emption therein, and "all other estate, right, title and prop- 
erty." The Tuscaroras, Oneidas, Onondagas, Cayugas and 
Senecas sold or ceded nearly all their domains between 1785 
and 1797. After 1788, the vast wilderness of central and 
western New York was rapidly settled by New-Englanders. 
The land-office sold 5,542,173 acres for $1,030,433. At this 
time New York had fewer inhabitants -than Virginia, Massa- 
chusetts, Pennsylvania, or North Carolina ; and it was not 
until 1820 that it passed Virginia in population. The Con- 
tinental Congress established the capital of the Republic at New 
York, 1784-90 ; and there, in 1789, President Washington was inaugurated, on the balcony 
of Federal Hall, in the presence of Adams, Knox, Jay, Livingston, and thousands of citizens. 
During the next half century the statesmen and lawyers of New York, conspicuous in 
ability and ripe in attainments, had a great share in forming the future of the Republic. 
Although the New-York delegates in Congress did not vote for the declaration of war in 
1812, much of the brunt of that two years of fighting fell on the Empire State. Sackett's 
Harbor and Ogdensburg repulsed the invaders, but Buffalo was burned by the Royal 
Scots, all but four houses. The New- York militia suffered defeat at Queenston, with a 
loss of 1, 100 men; but 1,700 Americans captured York (Toronto), after a hot bombard- 
ment ; and another force stormed Fort George, on the Niagara River. Some of the 
heaviest fighting of the war occurred on the Niagara 
frontier, in the summer of 1 81 3, when Gens. Scott and 
Ripley captured Fort Erie, opposite Buffalo, and soon 
afterward defeated Riall at Chippewa, and won a des- 
perate battle at Lundy's Lane, over 800 men being 
lost on either side. Fort Erie repulsed several assaults 
by the British, and was then blown up by the gar- 
rison, and Izard's American army went into winter 
quarters at Buffalo and Batavia. Plattsburg was attacked in September, 1 8 14, by Sir George 
Prevost and 14,000 soldiers, mostly veterans of Wellington's army, who for two hours en- 
deavored to storm the town, occupied by Macomb's 3,000 United- States regulars and an 
equal number of New-York and Vermont militia under Gen. Mooers. The invaders were 
driven back to Canada, with a loss of 2, 500 men and nearly all their stores. At the same 
time Commodore Downie's fleet attacked MacDonough's American squadron, on Lake 
Champlain, off Plattsburg, and was forced to surrender, after a spirited naval battle, in 
which 30 vessels were engaged. Early in 1813 Sir James Yeo, with a British fleet and 3,000 
men, captured Oswego and destroyed the fort. The mastery of Lake Ontario was disputed 
with him by Commodore Chauncey, until Yeo launched a loo-gun man-of-war at Kingston. 

After the completion of the Erie Canal, the 
great cities of the Northern Tier sprang into being 
with marvellous rapidity. Buffalo, destroyed by 
the British in 1 81 3, had over 12,000 inhabitants in 
1830; and Rochester arose from a homeless wild- 
erness in iSioto 11,000 inhabitants in 1830. In 
1826 Wm. Morgan disappeared; and Thurlow 
Weed founded t he A nti- Masonic newspaper. New 
York was the first State to abolish imprisonment 
for debt, in 183 1. In 1832 the Whig party was 
NEW YORK : THE BELVEDERE, CENTRAL PARK. founded by Jamcs Watson Webb, 




NEW YORK : THE TOMBS. 




THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



58 = 




During the Canadian Rebellion of 1837, 700 New- York volunteers occupied Navy 
Island, in the Niagara River, with 20 cannon ; and armed Canadian Royalists seized their 
steamboat, the Caroline, and sent her in flames over Niagara F"alls. Other insurgents kept 
up a predatory warfare among the Thousand Islands, until 
President Van Buren and Gov. Marcy issued proclamations 
against the rebels, and Gen. Scott was ordered to northern 
New York to enforce neutrality. 

In 1839 thousands of farmers formed them- 
selves into anti-rent associations, to break up 
the onerous remnants of the feudal patroon 
system, and these secret bands perpetrated so 
many illegal acts, that Gov. Silas Wright de- 
clared Delaware County to be in a state of new york : 220 regiment armory. 
insurrection. The militia and sheriffs' posses suffered check for a time by the rural 
levies, and several persons were slain. After these disturbing forces had been put down, 
the land tenures were simplified by law, and the tenantry secured their rights. The large 
estates have been replaced by a multitude of small proprietors, and the farms now average 
less than 100 acres each. 

Although New York was bound to the South by closer commercial and social ties than 
any other Northern State enjoyed, the Republican party, led by Seward, Weed, and Greeley, 
attained great power within its borders. When the late civil war broke 
out, New York raised 30,000 men at the earliest call, sending at first ten 
splendid regiments of militia to meet the imminent 
danger. The United-States Sanitary Commission came 
into being in New- York City in 1861, largely by the 
efforts of Dr. Bellows, Valentine Mott, and Frederick 
Law Olmsted, and received and wisely distributed 
to the National armies supplies to the value of 
$20,000,000. In the same great city arose the United- 
States Christian Commission, under the efforts of 
Vincent Collyer and George H. Stuart, and dis- 
tributed to the armies food, stores, delicacies and 
clothing to the amount of $6,000,000. The Union 
Defence Committee of New York, by its large contributions and energetic measures, also 
aided greatly the work of reunion. By the close of 1862 the State had sent into the 
tented field 219,000 soldiers, and had given or loaned to the Government $300,000,000. 
But in July, 1863, the city of New York was seized by vast mobs (largely of aliens), who 
plundered and burnt extensive districts, and murdered many soldiers and negroes. The 
valor of the police and citizens availed little against this colossal riot, and the National 
Government was compelled to send 44 regiments 
and batteries against the insurgents. One thou- 
sand persons were killed and wounded during this 
amazing outbreak, and millions of dollars' worth 
of property was destroyed. During the war. New 
York furnished 490,000 soldiers, of whom 116,382 
went from the metropolis alone. She paid out 
$87,000,000 for bounties; and individual gifts and 
benefactions reached vast sums. Weakened by 
such terrible drains of men, the State showed a 
loss of 49,000 inhabitants between i860 and 1865. 
Her levies for the National armies included 194 
regiment's of infantry, 26 of cavalry, 1 7 of artillery, 




regiment armory. 




WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTER8 
AND MONUMENT, 



582 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS : " 
OF THE VALLEY. 



and 35 batteries, besides engineers, sharp-shooters, 
a rocket battalion, and the militia. During the 
war New York furnished 20 major-generals (and 
65 by brevet), and 97 brigadiers (and 220 by 
brevet). One hundred and fifteen New-Yorkers 
received the United-States medal of honor for 
bravery. 

June I, 1866, 1,200 Fenians crossed the Ni- 
agara River, seized Fort Erie, and advanced into 
Canada, where they fought a stubborn battle with 
the Toronto militia, at Ridgeway. The Irish in- 
vaders held the field, but retired during the night, and returned to the American shore. 

Among the historic edifices still standing are Johnson Hall, built at Johnstown by Sir 
William Johnson, in 1763 ; the manor-houses of the Van Rensselaers, Schuylers, Phillipses, 
Beekmans, Van Cortlandts, De Peysters, Livingstons, Morrises, Jays, and other great 
families ; the Senate House, at Kingston, recently restored with pious care ; the Biilopp 
House, on Staten Island; Washington's headquarters (1782-3), at Newburgh, built in 
1750, and now sacredly preserved; the old Dutch church of Sleepy Hollow, built by 
Vedryck Flypsen in 1699 ; the Dutch and English churches at Fishkill ; the shattered 
walls and barracks of Fort Ticonderoga ; the fortress of Crown 
Point, built by the British Government about 1759, at a cost of 
over $10,000,000, and still fairly preserved ; the ancient churches 
and ruined defenses of the Mohawk Valley ; and many other 
venerable houses in the Hudson Valley anti on Long Island. Im- 
posing monuments have been erected on the battle-fields of Sara- 
toga, Oriskany, and Cherry Valley, and elsewhere. 

The name of New York is derived from the circumstance 
that in 1664 King Charles II. of England granted the territory 
"from the west side of the Connecticut River to the east side 
of Delaware Bay," to his brother, the Duke of York (afterwards 
King James II. ) ; and when the Duke's naval expedition captured 
New Amsterdam, that town was named in his honor. New York. 
The same name was applied to the Province. "By a strange 
caprice of history, the greatest State in the Union bears the name of the last and the most 
tyrannical of the Stuarts." The popular name of The Empire State indicates the com- 
manding position of New York among the American commonwealths. 

The Arms of New York are as follows : A broad shield, on which is pictured a 
placid stream, the Hudson, with vessels approaching each other, and in the background 
the Highlands, over which the resplendent sun is rising. The crest is an heraldic eagle, 
perched on a globe, showing parts of America and Europe On one side of the shield 
stands the robed figure of Liberty, with a shield in one hand, and in the other an upright 

staff surmounted by a liberty cap, and with her 
foot on an overturned crown. On the other side 
stands the robed figure of Justice, blindfolded and 
vigilant, with an even balance in one hand and 
an upward-pointing sword in the other. The 
motto is Excelsior. This seal was devised in 
1778 by Lewis Morris, John Jay, and John Sloss 
Hobart, and has appeared on the blue regimental 
flags of the New-York troops ever since. 

The Governors of New York have been : 
Dutch: Cornelius Jacobsen May, 1624; William 




KAUTERSKILL FALLS. 




»DIRONDACK MOUNTAINS ; BLUE-MOUNTAIN LAKE. 



THE THOUSAND 




THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 583 

Verhulst, 1625 ; Peter Minuit, 1626-33 5 Wouter 
Van Twiller, 1633-8; William Kieft, 1638-47; 
Peter Stuyvesant, 1647-64. British : Richard 
Nicolls, 1664-8; Francis Lovelace, 1668-74; 
Sir Edmond Andros, 1674-82; Thomas Don- 
gan, 1682-7; Francis Nicholson, 1687-90; Jacob 
Leisler, 1690-I ; Henry Sloughter, 1691 ; Joseph 
Dudley, 1692. 30 Provincial governors ruled 
between 1692 and 1777. State: George Clin- 
ton, 1777-95; John Jay, 1795-1801 ; George 
Clinton, 1801-4; Morgan Lewis, 1S04-7 ; Daniel D. Tompkins, 1807-16 ; John Tay- 
lor (acting), 1816-17; De Witt Clinton, 1817-23; Joseph C.Yates, 1S23-5 ; De Witt 
Clinton, 1825-8; Nathaniel Pitcher, 1828-9; Martin Van Buren, 1829; Enos T. Throop 
(acting), 1829-31; Enos T. Throop, 1831-3; W'illiam L. Marcy, 1833-9; W^illiam H. 
Seward, 1839-43; William C. Bouck, 1843-5; ^'^^^ Wright, 1845-7; John Young, 
1847-9; Hamilton Fish, 1849-51 ; Washington Hunt, 1851-3; Horatio Seymour, 1853-5 ; 
Myron H. Clark, 1855-7 ; John A. King, 1S57-9 ; Edwin D. Morgan, 1859-63 ; Horatio 
Seymour, 1863-5; Reuben E. Fenton, 1865-9; John T. Hoffman, 1869-73; John Adams 
Dix, 1873-5; Samuel Jones Tilden, 1875-7 ; Lucius Robinson, 1877-80 ; Alonzo B.Cornell, 
1S80-3; Grover Cleveland, 1883-5; David 
r.ennett Hill (acting), 1885 ; D. B. Hill, 
1885-91 ; and Roswell P. Flower, 1892-4. 
Descriptive. — New York is nearly 
as large as England, and a little larger 
than Louisiana, and includes ^L of the 
American land. It is the 19th State in 
size, being smaller than Alabama, Colo- 
rado, Florida, Georgia; Illinois, and others. 
Some imaginative writers fancy that they can see a triangular outline to the State. It is 
326^ miles east and west, and 300 miles north and south, excluding the islands. Forty- 
seven thousand six hundred and twenty square miles of its area is land, and 1,550 in Lakes 
Ontario and Erie. The land rises gradually from the Great Lakes, and attains mountainous 
altitudes all along the eastern and southern borders, affording many episodes of beautiful 
scenery. Foremost among these highlands come the Adirondacks, a cluster of wilderness 
peaks, toward Lake Champlain, surrounded by the far-outspread North Woods, and diver- 
sified with many a bright lake and silvery river. A troop of broad and irregular hills 
enters from Pennsylvania, broken by deep ravines, and by the rich Mohawk Valley, and then 
rising to the great Adirondack group of mountains, wild and 
rugged, and formed of igneous rocks, rich in mineral de- 
posits. Among the most interesting scenes here are the 
Hunter's Pass, Indian Pass, Wilmington Notch, Keene Val- 
ley, and the wild Ausable Ponds, under Mt. Marcy. Farther 
north are the wonderful gorges of the Au-Sable and Chat- 
eaugay Chasms. 

The loftiest peaks in the Adirondack wilderness are : 
Mt. INIarcy, 5,344 feet; Mt. Mclntyre, 5,113; Clinton, 
4,937; Haystack, 4,918; Dix Peak, 4,916; Basin Moun- 
tain, 4,905 ; Gray Peak, 4,902; Skylight, 4,890; White- 
face, 4,871 ; Colden, 4,753 ; Gothic Mountain, 4,744; Red- 
field, 4,688 ; Santanoni, 4,644 ; and the Giant of the Valley, 
RIVER '=^<^^~=!:^~^C-^ 4) 530- Among the other ranges in this lofty wilderness 
'""and'bwdge!^^ """-JX"'" ' are the Palmertown Mountains, running east of Lake George, 




OTSEGO LAKE. 




584 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LAKE LUZERNE. 



from Greenfield to Mt. Defiance, opposite Fort Ticon- 
deroga ; the Kayaderosseras Mountains, 60 by seven 
miles, between Schroon Lake and Lake George, and end- 
ing at Bulwagga Bay, on Lake Champlain, with Mt. 
Pharaoh as the chief peak ; the Bouquet Range, border- 
ing Bouquet-River Valley, and culminating in Dix 
Peak ; the Clinton Range, including the chief Adiron- 
dack summits, and ending at Trembleau Point, on Lake 
Champlain ; the Au-Sable Range, 160 miles long, ending 
on the north near Peru ; the Chateaugay Range, mainly 
in Hamilton and Franklin Counties, and melting away 
into the lowlands of Canada ; the St. -Lawrence Range, bordering the great northern val- 
ley ; and other semi-detached groups. 

The Catskill Mountains cover 500 square miles, between the Hudson and the 
Susquehanna, with steep and rocky acclivities, and crests of old red sandstone and con- 
glomerate. Among the chief peaks are Slide Mountain, 4,220 feet; Hunter Mountain, 
4,052; Black Dome, 4,004; Mt. Cornell, 3,920; Peekamoose, 3,875; Plateau Mountain, 
3,855 ; and Wittenberg, 3,824. This range was called Onti-ora, or Mountains of the Sky, 
by the Indians, and the Katzbergs, by the Dutch, 
for the many catamounts therein dwelling. Amid 
their beautiful glens Irving laid the scenes of his 
Rip Van Winkle legend, and Thomas Cole painted ^ 
many of his famous pictures. Three dependent ranges 
diverge from the Catskills : the Helderbergs, running 
northward, parallel with the Hudson ; the Shawangunk 
Mountains, a high and commanding ridge, running 
southwest from the Hudson near Esopus, to the Dela- 
ware, at Port Jervis, and from 1, 500 to 2,000 feet high ; 
and the Delaware Mountains, uniting the Catskills to the Pennsylvanian Alleghanies. Howe's 
Cave is in the Helderberg Mountains, and runs for three miles underground, with many 
weird halls and passages, flowing streams and dark pools, and myriads of stalactites and 
stalagmites. The Blue Ridge reaches the Hudson under the name of the Highlands, 
about 1,700 feet high; and after giving passage to the river between its mighty bulwarks, 
it is extended into the Taconics of Massachusetts. The outlines of this range are rugged 
and precipitous, of primary rock, with thin and valueless soil. 

The New-York coast-line of Lake Ontario extends for a distance of 200 miles, and that 
of Lake Erie, for 75 miles ; and the two are joined by 
the Niagara River. Lake Champlain flows along the east- 
ern frontier for 134 miles, and receives the waters of Lake 
George, one of the loveliest sheets of water in the world. 
This "Como of America," stretches its deep and crystalline 
tides for 36 miles among the frowning Kayaderosseras and 
Luzerne Mountains, with hundreds of islands, sequestered 
coves, mountain shores, and far-projecting points. It was 
called by the French discoverers, Le Lac dii St. Sacretnent ; 
and over a century of border forays and battling armies 
made its shores historic. Otsego Lake, nine by I5 miles, 
and hallowed by the genius of Cooper, lies between long 
ranges of green highlands, with Cooperstown at one end 
and Richfield Springs seven miles from the other end. 
Near the center of New York a group of long and nar- 
iN THE LAKE OF A TMoueAND ISLAND?, ^ow lakcs occupics ancicnt valleys blocked by moraines, 




SCHROON LAKE. 





UPPER AU-SABLE POND. 



THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 585 

and pointing generally north and south. Most 

of them empty into Lake Ontario, through the 

Oswego River. They are navigated by steam- 
boats, and have on their shores many pleasant 

villages and summer-resorts. Oneida Lake, 19 

by six miles, spreads its broad blue shield in a 

lowland country, rich in dairies and blooded cat- 
tle. Farther southwest is Skaneateles Lake, 

sixteen miles long, 860 feet above the sea, bordered 

by high blue hills, and not far from the romantic 

Otisco Lake (four miles long). Owasco Lake, eleven miles long, is near Auburn. Cayuga 

Lake, 38 miles long, runs from Ithaca to Cayuga, in a rich farming country. Seneca Lake, 

35 by four miles, lies between the beautiful scenery of Watkins Glen and the town of Geneva, 

the seat of Hobart College. Its deep, clear waters rarely freeze over. Canandaigua Lake 

(16 miles long) and Keuka Lake (22 miles long) lie in a picturesque hill-country, famous 

for its great vineyards and wine-cellars. In southwestern New York is Chautauqua Lake, 
18 by three miles, and 1,400 feet above the sea, and world-renowned 
for the popular educational movement bearing its name. The Adiron- 
dack country abounds in beautiful lakes. Placid, Raquette, Blue-Moun- 
tain, Tupper, St. Regis, Saranac, Schroon, Luzerne and many others, 
famous as summer-resorts. There are 200 lakes in this northern region. 
Avalanche Lake being 2,900 feet high; Colden Lake, 2,750; Blue- 
Mountain Lake, 1,800 ; and Upper Au-Sable Pond, 1,993. Nearer 
New- York City are Lake Mahopac (seven miles around) and Green- 
wood Lake (ten miles long), each of which has great summer-hotels. 
Lake Mohonk, high up on the Shawangunks, and Lake Minnewaska 
are also much visited in summer. 

The rivers fall naturally into two divisions, those flowing to the Great 
Lakes, including the short and rapid streams of the western counties : 
the Genesee, 145 miles long, with its lofty walls and great falls, and a 
valley rich in wheat ; the Oswego, flowing from the midland lakes ; the 
iron-tinted rivers that pour down from the Adirondack wilderness, and 
the torrents that rush into Lake Champlain ; and those flowing south 
and east, like the limpid and broad-curving Allegany, navigable to 

Olean ; the Susquehanna, issuing from Otsego Lake ; the Delaware, bom in Utsyanthia Lake ; 

the Mohawk, pouring down its famous valley to the Hudson ; and the majestic Hudson, 

rising far up in the Adirondacks, 300 miles from and 4,000 

feet above the sea. The Hudson is the most interesting of 

the lesser American rivers, and immense steamboats traverse 

its 156 miles from New-York City to Albany and Troy daily. 

Among the points of interest are the Palisades, a basaltic wall, 

20 miles long and i, 500 feet high, running north from Fort Lee, 

along the Jersey shore ; Tappan Zee, a lake-like widening of the 

river, ten by three miles, on which lie the ancient towns of Dobbs 

Ferry and Irvington, Tarrytownand Piermont, Nyack and Sing 

Sing, in a region made classic by the pen of Washington Irving ; 

Ilaverstraw and Peekskill, venerable Dutch towns; the historic 

headlands of Stony Point and Verplanck's Point ; the magnifi- 
cent passage of the Highlands, beginning between the Dun- 

derberg and Anthony's Nose, and extending north to Storm 

King (1,529 feet high), beyond the world-renowned military 

school at West Point ; Cornwall, the chief summer-resort of au-sable chasm : rainbow falls. 



^ 


L J 


^K 


H 




Wf.$^JM^k-^^^ 







AU-SABLE CHASM : 
SENTINEL ROCK. 




^g6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

the Hudson country; the quaint old city of Newburgh, opposite Fishkill, the scene of 
Cooper's novel, The Spy ; Poughkeepsie, with its bold heights crowned by famous schools ; 
Rondout and Kingston, abounding in coal ; the grand Catskill Mountains, massed on the 
west of the valley ; and many another interest- 
ing locality, with hundreds of beautiful coun- 
try-seats of the ancient patrician families, and 
the modern men of wealth. In the six miles 
between Dobbs Ferry and Tarrytown are the 
country-houses of 63 millionaires, whose united 
fortunes are said to exceed $500,000,000. 

The magnificent St. -Lawrence River, the 
outflow of the Great Lakes, which pours into 
the sea more water than any river in the world, 




except the Amazon, forms the northern boundary 
of New York for 100 miles, from Lake Ontario 
to the Indian village of St. Regis, where it passes 
into Canada. After leaving Lake Ontario, at Cape 
Vincent, the river traverses the lovely Lake of a 
Thousand Islands, 40 miles long and in places seven 
miles wide, containing 1,800 islets and islands, 
famous in border history, and for many years one of the leading sum- 
mer-resorts of America. Nor may we fail to speak of the Chenango 
and the Chemung, 75 miles and 40 miles long, tributaries of the Sus- 
quehanna, and the former navigable for 50 miles. Black River flows from the Adirondacks 
to Lake Ontario, 108 miles, with several falls. The Oswegatchie(l25 miles), Raquette, St.- 
Regis, Grass and other wilderness streams mingle their waters with the St. -Lawrence. In 
its 36 miles from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario the Niagara River falls 336 feet, 52 feet being 
in the rapids above the Falls. At Buffalo it is three quarters of a mile wide, and from 40 to 
60 feet deep, with a current of four miles an hour. The marvellous Niagara Falls, one of 
the wonders of the world, occur at a point where the river is 4,750 feet wide. The curving 
Horse-shoe Fall, half of which is within the Canadian boundary, is 154 feet high and 
2,000 feet wide; the American Fall is 163 feet high and 1,100 feet wide; and over these 
huge cliffs 100,000,000 tons of water thunder every hour. 

The wooded Goat Island, half a mile long, and reached by a bridge from the American 
shore, separates the two falls, with huge precipices descending sheer from their brink to 
the river below. On either side, and for two miles above, extend the great rapids, "a 
battle charge of tempestuous waves." The American Fall is divided by the little Luna 
Island, and the part between Luna and Goat is sometimes called the Central Fall, between 
whose blue waters and the cliff behind is the Cave of the Winds, often visited by adventur- 
ous tourists. A steamboat plies on 
the river just below the Falls, run- 
ning up into their spray. Nearly a 
league below, beyond the white and 
terrible Whirlpool Rapids, is the 
Whirlpool. 

The New-York State Park at 
Niagara Falls includes 1 15 acres, 
extending for over a mile along the 
river, by the falls and rapids. It 
was purchased by the State in 1883-5, 
for $1,433,000, and made attractive 

POUGHKEfPSIE AND THE BRIDGE. ^'^'^' ''^'^ °* aCCCSS. 




THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



587 




NIAGARA FALLS : CANTILEVER BRIDGE. VIEW FROM 
FALLS-VIEW STATION, MICHIGAN CENTRAL R. R. 



The New York State Commissioners, in 
the sobriety of an official report, were im- 
pelled to say : "Niagara is not simply the 
crowning glory of the Empire State, it is 
the highest distinction of the Nation and of 
the Continent of America. " Unfortunately, 
most visitors endeavor to see it in a few 
hours, and fall a prey to mercenary hack- 
men and shop-keepers, and so comg away 
lleeced, and tired and confused. To avoid such 
mischances, and properly to comprehend this para- 
mount marvel of Nature, the visitor should settle 
down here for a term of days, and study the scene 
in calmness and leisure. It was Hawthorne viho 
said that "Days should be spent at Niagara Falls 
in deep and happy seclusion." The International is 
the finest and largest hotel at Niagara, a great fire-proof stone structure built around 
three sides of an extensive lawn, which is adorned with flowers and ancient trees, and leads 
down to the American Rapids. The house fronts on Prospect Park ; and from its mag- 
nificent colonnades and rooms gives noble views of the rapids and islets, the wooded heights 
of Goat Island, and the absolute brink and spray of the falls. The appointments of this 

famous hotel are of the best, and the rates are 
moderate. Many of the most celebrated peo- 
ple of the world, visiting Niagara, have so- 
journed at the International, and from its 
pleasant shelter have made their calm and 
profitable studies of the mighty cataract so 
near at hand, unfretted by the parasites who 
sometimes make misery and confusion for the 
single-day visitor. 

During the winter, spring, and autumn the 
only large hotel which is open at Niagara Falls is the Spencer House, whose internal 
arrangements combine every advantage of quiet, comfort and convenience. It is only two 
minutes' walk from the shore of the river and the edge of the rapids, and fronts on the 
Central-Hudson railway station, 'which is, however, across a very broad avenue. The house 
is just far enough from the Falls to shield nervous guests from their occasional damp mist, 
and to deaden the roar of the falling waters. The Spencer has entertained many of the 
most famous persons of this century — the King of the Sandwich Islands and the Grand 
Duke Alexis of Russia, Booth and Barrett, Modjeska and Parepa-Rosa, Chauncey M. 
Depew, Wilkie Collins and Charles Dickens. 

There are many other well-known waterfalls in this picturesque State, like the Genesee 
Falls, at Rochester, where the Genesee River plunges down 226 feet, with three powerful 
cascades, in a rocky canon ; Glens Falls, where 
the Hudson descends 50 feet, between black 
marble cliffs ; the downward rush of the Mo- 
hawk at Cohoes, for 62 feet, between lofty 
rocky walls; the beautiful Trenton Falls, iS 
miles north of Utica, where West Canada Creek 
makes five leaps (200 feet), in a romantic lime- 
stone ravine ; the cascades near Ithaca, with 
Fall Creek descending 438 feet m a mile, o\^ 
the Ithaca, Triphammer, Rocky and other fall.^ , 




HAGARA FALLS : INTERNATIONAL HOTEL. 




588 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEW YORK : 



tlie magnificent Taughkannock Falls, ten miles from Ithaca, 210 feet high, narrow, massive, 
and white, in a great amphitheater of dark cliffs ; the Portage Falls, on the upper Genesee, 
328 feet in three cascades, in a profound and impressive gorge ; Kauterskill, and others. 

^^^■■-■'-— ... ,*—>-....., , Long Island includes three counties, with 

800,000 inhabitants, and is 140 miles long, hav- 
ing (according to Walt Whitman) the form of a 
fish. On the north is Long-Island Sound, " the 
American Mediterranean," separating it from 
Connecticut ; and on the south lines of lagoons 
and sand-bars front the ocean. The long alluvial 
plains of the island are traversed by several rail- 
ways, leading to Coney Island, Rockaway and 

WASHINGTON BRIDGE AND HIGH BRIDGE. iUr Ut. li-itl -i. 

other famous beaches, and out to the ancient ports 
of Sag Harbor and Greenport, near the eastern end. The western end, with Brooklyn and 
the adjacent communes, forms one side of New-York harbor. 

Staten Island, southeast of New- York Bay, covers 58^ square miles, with its picturesque 
region of hills and plains, and quiet villages. Frequent ferry-boats ply to and from the 
metropolis. Here Curtis and Winter have dwelt for many years ; and Theodore Winthrop 
wrote his memorable novels ; and Thoreau, and Parkman, and Lowell, and Mackay, lived 
and labored. The Sailors' Snug Harbor overlooks the Kill Von KuU. 

The Climate is a pleasant mean between the rigors of New England and the languors 
of the South, being tempered by the contiguous sea and lakes. It abounds in sharp and 
sudden changes, but is healthy and agreeable, and conduces to contentment and long life. 
The prolonged Adirondack winters and the deep and abiding snows of the lake-country 
give place in the great metropolis on the coast to milder seasons. 

New York has 70 varieties of trees, including 15 of oaks ; 54 kinds of ferns ; and 1,540 
of flowers. The policy of the State had been to get rid of its woodlands at any price. 
But in 1885 wiser council prevailed, and the Forest Commission began its work ; and 
foresters, fire-wardens and game protectors now patrol the State's woods. The Forest 
Preserve includes over 850,000 acres, mainly in Hamilton, Essex, and Franklin Counties, 
in the Adirondack wilderness. The Catskill Deer-Parks were established in 1887. The 
islands of Lake George, Esopus Island, in the Hudson, and other 
public domains are reserved as natural parks. The elk, moose and 
caribou have suffered extermination, but the Virginian deer remams, 
and also bears, lynxes, foxes, and smaller animals in great 
numbers. Seventeen species of snakes wind their way 
through the woods and fields. In the hill streams brook- 
trout dwell ; the lakes contain bass, pickerel, perch and 
land-locked salmon ; and the rivers shelter German carp 
and salmon. 

The Geology of New York 
is remarkably varied and com- 
prehensive. The Adirondacks 
are thought by scientists to be 
the oldest parts of the earth's 
surface. The ocean beat for 
centuries along their bases, and 
left its beaches as memorials. 
Long afterwards, the Alleghany Mountains were upheaved ; the glaciers planed away vast 
areas, and dug out the lake-valleys and Long-Island Sound; and amazing changes occurred to 
the rivers. There are 250 quarries in New York, with a valuable yearly product. They include 
the roofing slate of Washington, Rensselaer and Columbia ; the granite of the Adirondack 




NEW YORK AND BROOKLYN EAST R VER BRIDGE 



The state oe mew yoric. ^gy 

region ; the sandstone of Potsdam and Medina ; the bluestone (for paving) of Kingston 
and the Hudson Valley ; the shell-limestone of Lockport ; the black marble of Glens Falls ; 
the red marble of Warwick ; the verd-antique of Moriah ; the white marble of Westchester ; 
the gypsum of Syracuse ; and the hydraulic cement of Rondout, Manlius and Akron. The 
most valuable mineral product is iron ore, of which 1,250,000 tons are mined yearly. Graphite 
is found near Ticonderoga. The finest fibrous talc comes from Gouverneur, St. Lawrence 
County. Petroleum and natural gas abound in the State. Near Syracuse are the great 
Salt Springs, which have produced 400,000,000 bushels of salt. 

The mineral springs of New York have been for many years favorite summer-resorts, 
and are provided with great hotels and pavilions. Foremost stands Saratoga Springs, about 
180 miles north of New- York City, with saline, chalybeate, and other medicinal waters, 
amid pleasant parks, and near the beautiful Saratoga Lake, and Mt, McGregor (where Gen. 
Grant died). 
The 17 sulphur 
springs of Rich- 
field rise amid 
the rich dairy- 
lands of Otsego, 
close to Canada- 
rago Lake and 
have latterly be- 
come very fash- 
ionable. Sha- 
ron Springs 
(iron, sulphur 
and magne- 
sia) have been 
called "the Ba- 
den - Baden of 
America," and 
flow in a nar- 
row upland valley of Schoharie. Among other resorts of this character are the 
Acid Springs, six miles south of Medina ; Avon, with saline-sulphurous waters, in the 
Genesee Valley ; Ballston, near Saratoga, a famous resort 80 years ago ; Chappaqua, in 
Westchester; Cherry Valley, resembling the sulphur-waters of Teplitz ; Chittenango, a 
group of sulphur-springs, near Cazenovia Lake ; Clifton, near Canandaigua ; Columbia, in the 
Claverack Valley ; Crystal, between Seneca Lake and Keuka Lake ; Deep-Rock, at Oswe- 
go ; Guymard, in the Delaware Valley; Lebanon, an ancient thermal spa, amid the hills of 
the Massachusetts border ; Massena, a strong sulphur water near the Raquette River, in the 
far north ; Spencer, near the Cayuga Valley ; Vallonia, among the Chenango hills ; and 
Verona, near Rome, and resembling the Harrowgate Springs. 

The Population of New-York State exceeds that of 22 important nations of the earth, 
including the Argentine Republic, Bolivia, Canada, Chili, Columbia, Egypt, Peru, Portu- 
gal, Sweden and Norway. It is exceeded by only 14. As late as the year 1750, England 
had no more inhabitants. New York includes in its variegated population 500,000 Irish- 
men, 375,000 Germans, 150,000 Britons, 85,000 Canadians, 20,000 Frenchmen, 15,000 
each of Italians and Scandinavians, 12,000 Poles, and divers Azoreans, Australians, Greeks, 
Greenlanders, Hindoos, Japanese, Maltese, Mexicans, Russians and Turks, with 57 natives 
of Gibraltar. Of the entire population, 55,000 were born in Pennsylvania, 45,- 
000 in New Jersey, 42,000 in Massachusetts, 38,000 in Connecticut, 31,000 in Ver- 
mont, 11,000 in Ohio, 7,000 each in New Hampshire, Michigan and Maine; 6,000 each in 
Rliode Island and Illinois ; and 5,000 each in Maryland and Virginia. There are 230,000 




THE GENESEE FALLS AND CITY OF ROCHESTER. 



590 



A'/iVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



natives of New York in Michigan, 120,000 in 
Illinois, 100,000 in Pennsylvania, 94,000 in New 
Jersey, 87,000 in Wisconsin, 83,000 in Iowa, 
64,000 in Ohio, and 37,000 in Massachusetts. 

The Empire State has been always cosmo- 
politan in its make-up. Livingston was of 
Scottish origin ; Herkimer, German Palatinate ; 
John Jay, Huguenot ; Hamilton, West-Indian ; 
Clinton, Irish ; Schuyler, Dutch ; and Lewis, 
Welsh. For many years the Welsh towns of 
Oneida, the Huguenots of Westchester, the 
Scotch-Irish of Otsego, the Palatines of the 
Mohawk Valley, the Vermonters and French - 
Canadians of the northern counties, and the Con- 
necticut and Massachusetts colonies in the 
center and west, preserved their individual 
traits. 
Farming. — The central and eastern parts of New York are among the richest and 

most delightful farming countries in the world, abounding in comfort and prosperity. 

Half the population dwells in the cities, but still this is the third American State in agri- 




newyork: riverside park and Hudson river. 



Alabama, Georgia, Illinois, 
cultural products, whose 




THE HUDSON RIVER: MOUNT ST. -VINCENT AND FONT HILL. 



cultural importance. Although it has fewer farmers than 
or Ohio, it is second only to Illinois in the value of its agri- 
average yearly yield is $178,000,000. 
It is the foremost hay-making State, and 
produces one seventh of the entire Ameri- 
can crop (5,000,000 tons a year, valued 
at $61,000,000). It leads all its sister 
States in raising potatoes, with 30, 000, 000 
bushels a year, or one eighth of the Na- 
tion's growth. The rich orchards of its 
valleys produce one sixth of the fruit of 
the United States, and nearly double the 
amount of its nearest competitor (Penn- 
sylvania). One seventh of the butter and one third of the cheese are made here. Among 
other yearly products of the soil of New York are 36,000,000 bushels of oats, 20,000,000 
of corn, 9,000,000 of wheat, 7,500,000 of barley, 3,000,000 of rye, and 6,500,000 pounds 
of tobacco. Three fourths of the hops of America are grown on these 
arable plains. One third of the American buckwheat comes from her farms, 
which yield over 300,000 bushels a year. In maple-sugar, lumber, and other 

forest-products she stands 

Of the 14 American coun- 

products exceed $5,000,- 

sylvania, two in Illinois, 

eight were in New York, 

Erie, Jefferson, Monroe, 

Oneida, Onondaga, Otse- 
go, St. Lawrence and s^ 

Steuben. The broom- 
corn of the Mohawk 

Valley, and the pe])- ' 

permint of Lyons 

are famous. 





among the foremost States. 
ties whose yearly farm- 
000 each (three in Penn- 
and one in California), 



NEW YORK : THE OBELISK, 
CENTRAL PARK. 



TROY : THE EARL CREMATORY. 



591 




THE STATE OE NEIV YORK:. 

Government. — The governor and lieutenant- 
governor are elected for three years (since 1879); ^""^^ 
on alternate years the people choose their comptrol- 
ler, treasurer, attorney -general, secretary of State, 
and State engineer and surveyor. The judiciary in- 
cludes the Court of Appeals, with seven judges, 
and the Supreme Court, of eight districts. 

The Capitol was begun in 1867, on the noble 
heights above Albany, and has cost nearly i$20,ooo, - 
000, remaining still in an unfinished condition. It 
is built of granite, in free Renaissance architecture, 
and covers nearly four acres, with a central court of 

137 by 92 feet. The walls are 108 feet high, and coney island : iron pier. 

form a landmark for leagues along the populous Hudson Valley. The State library of 
125,000 volumes, the 804 flags of the volunteers, and the magnificent court and legislative 
halls are the Capitol's treasures. 

The National Guard includes 15 regiments, one battalion and 44 separate com- 
panies of infantry, and five batteries, forming four brigades, with armories at Olean, Albany, 
Auburn, Binghamton, Brooklyn, Buffalo, Elmira, Flushing, Hoosick Falls, Kingston, 
Mount Vernon, Newburgh, New York, Oneonto, Oswego, Rochester, Saratoga, Syracuse, 
Troy, Utica, Walton, and Watertown, The armories of some of the city regiments, like 
the 7th and 12th of New-York City, are imposing and extensive structures, adapted for 
defence. The State spends $500,000 yearly in the maintenance of its disciplined militia. 
The State Camp of Instruction was established at Peekskill, in 1882, as a military post, 
where the armory-drilled militia are exercised in the open, in company and battalion 
drill, skirmish and outpost, picket and field duty, and minor and grand tactics. The 
regiments spend several days in camp here every summer, under strict military discipline. 
Rifle-ranges on Long Island are devoted to practice by the National Guard, with military 
rifles, and have resulted in great proficiency in marksmanship. A new rifle-range and a 
parade-ground were established in Van-Cortlandt Park in 1889. 

Charities and Corrections. — The State Board of Charities has charge of three 
groups, the State institutions, those of the counties and cities, and those of benevolent 
societies. Fully 64,000 persons are maintained in these places, at a yearly cost of 
$13,000,000 — $1,500,000 of which comes from the State, $1, 800,000 from the counties, 
$3,300,000 from the cities, and $1,600,000 from gifts. The property held for these uses 
exceeds $54,000,000 in appraised' value — $36,000,000 belonging to benevolent associations, 
$11,000,000 to the State, $4,000,000 to the cities, and $3,000,000 to the counties. 

The State prisons are at Sing Sing, on the Hudson, with 1,400 convicts; Auburn, in 
central New York, 1,250 convicts ; and Danneinora ( 750 ccjnvicts), 1,700 feet above the 
sea, near the Adirondack Mountains. The 
counties, prohibited by law from employing 
their prisoners at useful labor in their peniteii - 
tiaries, send them to the State institutions, 
crowding the latter to their utmost capacity. 
For a number of years the prisons had been 
more than self-sustaining, the labor of the con- 
victs being contracted for at 40 cents a day. 
But in 1886 this system was abolished, at the 
demand of labor agitators, and in 1888 the 
Legislature forbade the use of machinery, and 
directed that the output of the prisons should 
be used only in the State institutions. These oonev island; bird's-eye view. 




592 



AVmPS HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



changes resulted in the unhappy idleness of thousands of convicts withdrawn from the 
shops to their cells, and the prisons receded in their condition and tendency. 



The Re- 
prison in the 
ofage. The 




formatory at Elmira was founded in 1876, and is the most interesting 
world, in its methods of dealing with first-offence criminals under 30 years 
sentences are indeterminate, and the convicts, divided into three classes, 
.- , with differing uniforms, receive industrial training and con- 

ditional discharges. They all first enter the second grade, 
whence six months of good conduct raises them to the first 
grade, six months more secures release on parole, 
and a final six months results in absolute freedom. 
As fast as the prisoners advance in these grades, 
their privileges increase, and their fare improves. 
Evil behavior reduces a prisoner to the third grade ; 
and incorrigible wickedness secures his transfer to 
Ntw YORK : SEVENTH REGIMENT ARMORY. the State Prison, to scrvc out a maximum sentence. 

Eighty-two per cent, of the men discharged from Elmira become reputable and self-sup- 
porting citizens. The system is being adopted in several other States ; and appears to fur- 
nish one of the most fortunate solutions to a heart-breaking 
problem of modern society. 

The State Industrial School at Rochester, and the House 
of Refuge, on Randall's Island, near New-York City, are now 
about 40 years old, and hold nearly 2,000 youths. The first- 
named has become a school of technology, whose inmates are 
taught carpentering, blacksmithing, painting and other useful 
avocations. 

There are large institutions for the instruction of deaf mutes 
at New York, Fordham, Rome, Rochester, Buffalo, and Malone, 
in which 1,500 pupils are supported by the State. The Institution 
for the Blind, founded at Batavia in 1867, has 120 inmates; and 
there are large establishments for the same class in New-York City. 
Another group of unfortunates, the confirmed inebriates, are cared for; 
in great stone buildings, in Tudor castellated architecture, on a far- 
viewing hill north of Binghamton. 

About 16,000 insane persons are treated in 15 corporate institutions, and in the State 
Asylums at Utica (700 patients), opened in 1843; Willard (2,000), opened in 1869; 
Poughkeepsie (700), opened in 1871 ; Buffalo (400), opened in 1880; Binghamton (1,100), 

opened in 1881, and Ogdensburg (1,200), 
opened in 189 1. At Middletown is the 
Homcepathic Asylum for the Insane, with 
600 patients. The State Asylum for Idiots 
(500) was founded at Syracuse, in 185 1 ; 
and the Custodial Asylum for Feeble- 
Minded Women (250), at Newark, in 
1S85. The Asylum for Insane Criminals 
(175) is at Auburn. New- York City 
has 5,000 insane in her municipal asy- 
lums ; and Brooklyn has 2,000. 

The State Board of Health, formed in 

1880, is constantly improving the drainage 

NEW YORK : MOUNT-SINAI HOSPITAL. aud scwcragc and water-supplies of the 

towns; watching and checking epidemics; prosecuting adulterators of food and drugs ; and 

tabulating vital statistics. 




NEW YORK : 
12TH REGlMENTiARMORV. 




THE STATE OE NEW YORK. 



593 







BROOKLYN : 




METHODIST GENERAL HOSPITAL. 



Education. The Board of Regents of the University attends to the incorporating and 
inspection of colleges and academies, and the government of the State Library and Museum. 
The normal schools at Albany, Brockport, Buffalo, Cortland, Fredonia, Geneseo, New 
Paltz, Oneonta, Osvi^ego, and Potsdam, cost $1,400,000, and have 6,000 
pupils. But in 1880, 166,625 New-Yorkers could not read ; and 219,600 
could not write. A third of the children of 
school age are in daily attendance (637,000 out 
of 1,773,000). There are 30 Indian schools, 
with 1,100 enrolled students, on the seven 
reservations. The colleges and professional 
schools own property valued at $24,000,000. 
There are 18 colleges for men, and six for 
women, with 9,000 students ; and seven schools of science, 13 of theology, four of law, and 
14 of medicine, with 4,000 students. 

Columbia College, chartered in 1754 as King's College, has its seat in New-York City, and 
stands among the foremost of American colleges. It includes a School of Arts, a School of 
Mines, a School of Law, a School of Political Science, a School of Medicine (the College 
of Physicians and Surgeons), and a Department of Graduate Instruction. There are 1,700 
students, seven eighths of whom are from New York and its vicinity. Columbia has some 
fine modern buildings, and a library of 100,000 volumes. There are no dormitories. 

Union University, at Schenectady, was founded in 1795, and Eliphalet Nott held its 
presidency from 1804 to 1866. It has about 120 students, besides 50 in the law school, 
150 in the medical school and 50 in the college of pharmacy. Union's professional schools 
are at Albany. 

The University of the City of New York, opened in 1832, has a handsome Gothic build- 
ing, of marble, dating from 1832-5, on Washington Square, with 24 instructors and 130 
students, besides 100 in the post-graduate school. The University Medical College, founded 
in 1842, under Valentine Mott, John William Draper and others, occupies fine modern 
buildings near Bellevue Hospital, with 60 instructors, 650 students (loo foreigners), and 
5,000 graduates. The University Law School arose in 1858, and has 140 students. 




NEW YORK : CHARITABUE AND CORRECTIONAI, INSTITUTION?. 



594 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Cornell University was opened in 1868, and its growth has been phenomenal. But 24 
years old, it has 121 professors and instructors and 1,377 students; a material equipment 
that would be extensive in an institution that could count its age by centuries ; and a site 
that is unsurpassed in the natural beauty of its surroundings. The University is established 
on the broad principle expressed in the declaration of its founder : "I would found an insti- 
tution where any person can find instruction in any study" ; and an inspection of the pro- 
gramme of the University shows that in the brief space of two decades the ideal of Ezra 
Cornell has been very nearly realized. The institution provides a total of 250 courses of 
study, in the following departments : Classical Languages, Germanic Languages, Romance 




ITHACA : CORNELL UNIVERSITY, AND CAYUGA LAKE. 

Languages, English Language and Literature, Law, Philosophy, Pedagogy, History and 
Political Science, Bibliography, Mathematics, Physics, Chemistry, Metallurgy, Pharmacy, 
Botany and Arboriculture, Physiology, Zoology, Geology, Agriculture and Horticulture, 
Veterinary Science, Civil Engineering, Architecture, Mechanical Engineering, Electrical 
Engineering, Industrial Art, Military Science, Hygiene and Physical Culture. Cornell offers 
special facilities and free tuition to its own graduates and those of other colleges and uni- 
versities who are accepted as candidates for advanced degrees. A number of scholarships of 
the yearly value of $200 and Fellowships of the yearly value of $400 are open annually, 
through competitive examinations, to students of exceptional ability. Charles Kendall 
Adams, LL. D., has been president since 1885. The annual register of the institution, 
which can easily be obtained by application to the Treasurer of Cornell University, Ithaca, 
gives considerable interesting information about this noble school. 

The University has received from benefactors endowments of $1,500,000, besides the 
proceeds of 990,000 acres of public lands given by Congress. There are 512 free State 
scholarships, for young men and women, the best scholars in their Assembly districts. 
Its many handsome stone buildings form a great open quadrangle of about seventy acres, 
situated on a bold plateau of 270 acres, just east of Ithaca, and 400 feet above Cayuga 
Lake, down whose shining leagues the eye glances entranced. The library of 110,000 
volumes, includes Anthon's 7,000 classical books, Bopp's 2,500 Orientalia, Goldwin Smith's 
3, 500 books, Jared Sparks' 9,000 volumes on American history, and ex-President Andrew D. 
White's 1,000 architectural books, besides the 30,000 volumes in the Library of History and 
Political Science, given by ex-President White. The museum contains several valuable 
collections. McGraw Hall, with its tall campanile, containing the great bell and the chimes 
of the University ; the Sibley College of the Mechanic Arts ; Sage College, a quadrangle 
in Italian-Gothic architecture, where the women-students live ; and other fine edifices, bear 
witness to the wealth of Cornell. The great cruciform library of stone and tile, glass and 
steel, the most imposing and costly of the University buildings, took over two years to 
build, and was the gift of the Hon. Henry W. Sage, who also endowed it with $300,000. 



THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



595 




ITHACA , SAGE COLLEGE, CORNELL UNIVERSITY. 



Hamilton College, at Clinton, was founded in 
1793, as Hamilton Oneida Academy, "for the 
mutual benefit of the young and flourishing settle- 
ments and the various tribes of confederate Indians." 
The corner-stone was laid by the Baron Steuben. In 
1 81 2, it was re-chartered as Hamilton College. 
There are 13 instructors and 160 students, with libra- 
ries of 35,000 volumes, and a famous observatory. 
Colgate University, at Hamilton, was known as 
Madison University from 1846 until 1890, when it 
took the name of a family of generous patrons. It 
is a Baptist institution, with 350 students. 

Syracuse Universit)^ with its rich endowments, occupies a campus of 50 acres, on a hill- 
top overlooking Onondaga Lake, and was founded by the Methodist Episcopal Church in 
1870. It has colleges of liberal arts, medicine, and fine arts, with nearly 650 students. The 
John-Crouse Memorial College for Women cost $450,000, and was dedicated in 18S9. The 
University also has a handsome Hall of Languages, 180 by 96 feet, of cut limestone ; the 
well-known Holden Observatory ; and a fire-proof library building, in which Leopold Van 
Ranke's fine historical library is kept. 

The University of Rochester owns a group of stone buildings, with eleven professors and 

175 students. It -was established by the Baptists in 1850, and has property valued at above 

.$500,000. The library contains 25,000 volumes, and there are valuable collections in art, 

archaeology, and geology, and the Trevor Observatory and Reynolds Memorial Laboratory. 

The College of the City of New York was constituted in 1866, from the Free Academy, 

and has a large building in Dutch secular architecture. 

There are 50 instructors, and nearly 1,000 students, more 

than half of whom belong to the preparatory school. 

The College of St. Francis Xavier, and Manhattan Cpl- 
lege, at New York ; Niagara University, near Suspension 
Bridge ; St. John's College, at Fordham ; and others per- 
tain to the Catholic Church. St. -Lawrence University is 
a Universalist institution, with 80 students, founded at 
Canton in 1856. Hobart College, a well-endowed Epis- 
copal school, with 75 students, was founded in 1825, at 
(ieneva, near the pleasant scenery of Seneca Lake. St. - 
Stephen's College, opened in 1858, at Annandale, on the 
Hudson, educates young men for the Episcopal General 
Seminary, and occupies several halls, on a domain of 30 
acres. It has 7,000 volumes in its library, and an astro- 
nomical observatory. There are seven professors and 56 students. 

Vassar College, one of the foremost American schools for women, has a noble building, 
modelled after the Tuileries Palace, and several other structures, with a rich art-gallery, a 
library of 18,000 volumes, museum and observatory, on a campus of 
200 acres, along a highland plain, two miles east of Poughkeepsie, 
and nobly overlooking the Hudson Valley. It was founded in 1865, 
l)y Matthew Vassar, with an endowment of $400,000. His declared 
object was to "provide such an education for the women of this 
country as would be adequate to give them a position of intellectual 
equality with men in domestic and social life." There are 34 
teachers and 300 students. Alfred University was opened in 1857, 
by the Seventh-Day Baptists, in the hill-country of Western New Albany • 

York, arid has 80 students. Ingham University, at LeRoy, arose in Dudley observatory. 




UNION THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY 





SYRACUSE: JOHN GROUSE MEMORIAL COLLEGE, 
SYRACUSE UNIVERSITY. 



596 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

1857, from an older collegiate institute. It Tias 130 women students. Wells College, 
another girls' school, has a beautiful situation at Aurora, on Cayuga Lake. The Elmira 
Female College is a prosperous school, dating from 1855. Rutgers Female College was 
founded in 1838, in New-York City; and became a college in 1867. 

The Pratt Institute for industrial education, in Brooklyn, is the largest school of the 
kind in the world. It has four acres of floors, and three acres of play- 
grounds. The main building is of brick and terra-cotta, six stories high, 
with the buildings of the department of mechanic arts in the rear. These 
structures are both fire-proof, and date from 1 885-7. The students 
have the use of the great library, reading-rooms, and lecture-halls. 
Among the industries practically taught are sewing, 
dress-making, millinery, art-embroidery, short-hand, 
type-writing, drawing, painting, modelling, wood-carv- 
ing, architecture, and mechanical drawing, with lectures 
from accomplished masters. The fifth floor contains a 
noble technical museum, and another story is given to the 
cooking-schools. The department of mechanics includes 
smithies, a foundry, machine-shops, carpenter-shops, and 
facilities for teaching the building-trades, bricklaying, 
stone-carving, plumbing, and other departments. 

The Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute was founded in 1824, at Troy, by Stephen Van 
Rensselaer, as a school of theoretical and practical science ; and now has 18 instructors and 
160 students (60 from other States, and 13 foreigners). The Institute owns 
large collections of minerals, shells and birds, and has several good buildings. 
The Nautical School of the Port of New York has 120 boys, who are 
taught for two years, cruising meanwhile on the war- 
ship St. Marfs. 

The Chautauqua University is on the correspond- 
ence method of home-reading, directed by the society, 
and has had over 100,000 members since Bishop John 
H. Vincent founded it, in 1878. The offices of this 
magnificent popular movement are at Buffalo, and its 
summer-home is at Chautauqua I^ake. 

The theological seminaries are Hamilton, the oldest 
American Baptist divinity school (opened in 1819), 
with large endowments, several buildings and 130 acres 
of land, 50 students, and a library of 20, 000 volumes ; 
Rochester, opened in 185 1, a Baptist school, with $500,000 endowment and several fine 
buildings, over 1,000 graduates (one fourth Germans), ten instructors and loo students, and 
a library of 24,000 volumes (including Neander's private library) ; the Christian Biblical 
Institutes, founded in 1869 at Standfordville and Eddy town, by the Christians; 
the General Theological Seminary of the Episcopal Church, founded in 181 7, 
with imposing buildings on Chelsea Square, New- York City, nine professors 
and 90 students, a library of 22,000 volumes, and 
real-estate valued at $600,000; DeLancey Divin- 
ity School, at Geneva ; St. -Andrew's Divinity 
School, founded by Churchmen in 1876, at Syra- 
cuse ; Hardwick Seminary, established by the 
Lutherans in 1815, in Otsego County; Auburn 
Theological Seminary, founded in 1819, for the 
teaching of strong Princeton Presbyterian doctrine, 
and possessing several fine buildings, eight pro- ^ew york : general theological seminary. 




NEW YORK : COLUMBIA COLLEGE. 




THE STATE OF NEW YORK 



597 




NtW YORK ; 
COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS AND SURGEONS 



fessors, 50 students, and 700 graduates ; Union Theo- 
logical Seminary, opened at New- York City in 1836 by 
New-School Presbyterians, and now possessing property 
worth $1,500,000, a library of nearly 60,000 volumes, ten 
instructors, 130 students, and 1,500 graduates; and the 
Universalist Divinity School at Canton, founded in 1858, 
and possessing five instructors and 14 students. The Catho- 
lics are served by St. -Joseph's Provincial Seminary, at 
Troy, with seven instructors and 120 students ; St. Bona- 
venture's, at Allegany ; and the Seminary of Our Lady of 
Angels, Suspension Bridge, near the stupendous gorge of the Niagara River below the falls. 
There are law schools at New York, Albany, Clinton, and Ithaca ; medical schools at 
New- York (nine in number), Buffalo (two), Syracuse, Brooklyn, and Albany ; a dental 
school at New York ; pharmaceutical schools at Albany, Buffalo, and New York ; and 
a veterinary school at New York. 

New York has 57 public libraries of above 10,000 volumes, the chief of which are the 
Astor, 225,000 volumes; Mercantile, 215,000; New- York Society, 80,000; New-York 
Historical Society, 75,000; Columbia College, 70,000; Apprentices', 70,000; Union The- 
ological Seminary, 50,000; and Lenox, 25,000, all in New-York City; Brooklyn, 90,000, 
and Long-Island Historical Society, 42,000, at Brooklyn ; Buffalo, 66,000, and Grosvenor, 
32,000, at Buffalo ; the great State libraries at Albany ; and the college libraries. These 
collections contain upwards of 2,000,000 volumes. 

Religion is professed in this great commonwealth by more than 1,200,000 persons, 
representing an attendance of 4,000,000. There are nearly 
7,000 churches, valued, with the connected ecclesiastical 
properties, at $125,000,000; and 70 religious sects find 
adherents here. The Catholic Province of New Yoric 
includes the States of New Jersey and New York. The 
State contains the dioceses of New York, Albany, Brook- 
lyn, Rochester, and Buffalo. The Cathedral of St. 
Patrick, in New-York City, is the most magnificent church 
in America, a decorated Gothic building of white marble, 
with two richly carved marble spires, 70 great windows of 
stained glass from Chartres, and several costly altars ol 
marble and gems. It was built in 1858-79, at a cost of $2,000,000. The huge and fortress- 
like Church of St. Paul the Apostle is the headquarters of the celebrated preaching Order 
of the Paulists, whose monastery adjoins it. One of the most celebrated Catholic shrines 
in the United States is the chapel of Our Lady of Martyrs, at Auriesville, in the Mohawk 
Valley, commemorating the martyrdom of Father Jogues at the hands of the Indians. 

New York is divided into five Protestant Episcopal dioceses, New York, Long Island, 
Albany, Central New York, and Western New York, founded between 1785 and 1S63. There 
are 900 churches and 50,000 communicants. The Cathedral of St. John the Divine is about 
to be erected on the heights near Morningside Park, in New-York City ; and if the outlined 
plans are carried out, it _ _. ,-.. 

will be the most magnifi- 
cent church in North 
America. The Cathedral 
of the Incarnation, at Gar- 
den City, is a Gothic 
structure of sandstone, 
with rich carvings and 
stained 'windows, six poughkeepsie ; vassar college. 




TROY : 
ENSSELAER POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE. 





St -^iV^ 

vMwM 



AURORA : WELLS COLLEGE. 



5p8 AUNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

organs, a bronze pulpit, and the mausoleum of A. T. Stewart. Near by stands St. -Paul's 
School, and the See-House of Long Island. The Cathedral of All Saints, at Albany, was 
begun by Bishop Doane, in 1884, in Spanish Gothic architecture, 270 feet long, with many 
rich memorial » furnishings and windows, and a noble rood-screen and altar. 

The antique- (^ carved stalls came from a mediceval Belgian church. All Saints 

will not be fin- ^^^'. ' - ished for many years. 

The richest .pffliH*"' ' religious society in America is Trinity Episcopal Parish, in 
New- York City. It received from Queen Anne in 1705 a tract 
of land on Manhattan Island, which, with its 
buildings, is now worth ,$9,000,000. Unfortu- 
nately, most of it has been given away by the 
parish. The income remaining is devoted to 
founding and maintaining chapels and missions, 
and to benefactions among the poor. The 
cathedral-like old stone church, with a spire 
284 feet high, holding the finest chime of bells 
in the country, stands on Broadway, at the 
head of Wall Street. It was finished in 1846, Richard M. Upjohn being the architect. 

Lutherans came to Manhattan among the first immigrants, but were prohibited from 
having a church. In 1671, however, they erected a house of worship ; and about 40 years 
later grew strong by the accession of the Palatines, a great body of Germans driven from 
the Lower Palatinate of the Rhine by the armies of Louis XIV. of France. 

The Presbyterian House (the old Lenox mansion, in New-York City), contains some 
of the chief offices of this denomination. Dr. John Hall's 
church in New- York City is the largest Presbyterian church 
in the world. The State religion of New Netherland, for 30 
years was the Reformed Protestant Dutch Church, which 
was re-named the Reformed Church in 1869. It has ten 
Classes in New York. Some of the most extraordinary of 
American religious beliefs and social experiments sprang 
from the Empire State. At New Lebanon, on the Massa- 
chusetts border, is an industrious Shaker community of 500 
persons, founded in 1780 by Mother Ann Lee as "the capi- 
tal of the Shaker world," and kept up after her death by the 
hierarchy of the Holy Lead. Elias Hicks, the founder of 
a well-known Quaker sect, lived and preached on Long 
Island from 1771 to 1S30. The first "raps" of Spiritualism 
were heard at Hydeville, by the Fox sisters, in 1849, since 
which time this belief has spread over many countries. The Foxes soon afterward moved 
to Rochester, "the Bethlehem of the new dispensation," and gave public tests and mani- 
festations, demonstrating to the belief of many people the possibility of intelligent 
communication with the unseen world. 

One of the two chief centres of the Millerite fanaticism was Rochester, where, in 1844, 
._ , -^» , •■ ir~'^ ■ thousands assembled in Talman Hall to await the world's 

end. The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints 
was founded in 1830, at Fayette (N. Y.), by a Vermont 
religious enthusiast named Joseph Smith, who claimed to 
have found the Book of Mormon, inscribed on golden 
plates, and buried in the hill Cumorah (near Manchester, 
N. Y.). Suffering great persecutions the Church in 1847 
made its wonderful exodus of 1, 500 miles across the plains 
NEW YORK : THE COOPER UNION. to Utah. lu 1847 Jo^u H. Noycs founded the cele- 




BROOKLYN : PRATT INSTITUTE. 




THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



599 



brated Oneida Community, based on a thrifty communism, but for many years obnoxious for 
its unconventional family ways. Since 1 88 1 it has been simply a business corporation. 
Gerrit Smith of Utica inherited one of the largest land domains in America, and gave away 
200,000 acres, mostly in 50-acre farms, to poor men. He be- 
came one of the noblest leaders in the Anti-Slavery cause. 
Rochester was one of the chief places of the Anti-Slavery 
movement, under Myron HoUey and Frederick Douglass ; and 
John Brown planned his Harper's-Ferry raid here. The 
Woman's-Suffrage agitation has also been largely generaled 
from Rochester, for many years the home of Susan B. An- 
thony, "the Napoleon of the Woman's-Rights Movement." 
The dress-reform movement illustrated by the Bloomer cos- new york : lenox library. 

tume was inaugurated by Mrs. Amelia Bloomer, at Seneca Falls, in 1849. 

The mysterious semi-Pagan rites of the Indians on their reservations, and the worship- 
ping ceremonies of the Chinamen in their joss-houses, are allowed and guarded by this 
tolerant commonwealth. 

And when their doubts are solved in the white light of Eternity, the last remains of the 
people are consigned to the most beautiful cemeteries in the world. The peerless Green- 
wood, near Brooklyn, was begun in 1842, and now covers 450 acres, with 220,000 graves 
and 37 miles of avenues and paths, overlooking the quiet beauties of the bay. Elsewhere 




around New 
with 75,000; 
lawn (1863), 




BUFFALO ; MUSIC HALL. 



Cypress Hills (1848), with 120,000 graves; Evergreen (1851), 
[848), a Catholic cemetery, with 400,000 interments; Wood- 
irlem Railroad ; the Lutheran, with 100,000 graves ; and many 
other final resting-places. Other cities are also adorned with 
these embowered God's-acres, like the Rural, at Albany ; 
Oakwood, at Troy ; Forest-Lawn, at Buffalo ; Mount Hope, 
near Rochester; and Forest-Hills, at Utica. 

The National Institutions in New York are of great 
importance and renown. The United-States Military Acad- 
^. emy occupies 2,200 acres on the historic promontory of West 
Point, amid the Highlands of the Hudson, with ancient 
castellated stone barracks and academic buildings, several 
batteries, and the ruins of the Revolutionary forts which made this for a time the Gibraltar 
of America. Here are preserved standards and trophies of the Shawnee, Seminole, British, 
Mexican, Secession, and other wars; famous cannon, won from the enemies of the Repub- 
lic ; and the graves of Gens. Scott, Anderson, Custer, Kilpatrick, Thayer, Buford, and 
other military chieftains. The library occupies a handsome stone l.)uilding, and contains 
37,000 volumes, and portraits of many old-time offi- 
cers ; and Grant Hall, where the cadets take their 
meals, is adorned with large portraits of Grant, Sher- 
man, Sheridan and other generals. The parade 
ground has statues of Gen. Sedgwick and Col. Syl- 
vanus Thayer, "The Father of the Military Acad- 
emy. " One company of engineer troops is stationed at 
this post. A number of officers are detached for duty 
in instruction. This locality was chosen by Washing- 
ton for the site of a National military school, which 
opened in 1812. Every Congressional district is en- 
titled to send here one youth, physically perfect, and 
well-grounded in elementary studies. Cadets receive ITfes?^ -isf^-"^ 
$540 a year for four years, with a discipline and instruc- buffalo • 

lion unequalled elsewhere in America for exaction and buffalo library and soldiers' monument. 




6oo 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEW YORK : 
TRINIT'y CHURCH AND MARTYRS' MONUMENT. 



thoroughness. The graduates enter upon the rank and pay of second lieutenants of the 
regular army, and are sent to the frontiers. There are 300 cadets, in a battalion of four com- 
panies, uniformed in gray ; and they pass two months of each year in camp, and ten months 
in barracks. This is the great school of the people, where absolute democracy 
reigns. Here the foremost generals of the Republic have been educated: Grant, 
Sherman, Sheridan, Thomas, Hancock, Howard, Hooker, McClellan, Buell, 
and many others ; besides Lee, Jackson, Johnson, Beauregard, Longstreet, John- 
ston, and other Southern leaders. The scenery of this region is of great beauty 
and nobility, and includes the deep-green highlands, the broad vistas of the Hud- 
I son, and line after line of far-away blue mountains, receding in the distance. 

The Engineer School of Application is at Willett's 
Point, on Long-Island Sound, and provides practical 
instruction for the younger engineer officers, and tor- 
pedo-practice for artillery officers. This post is the 
headquarters of the Battalion of Engineers, U. S. A., 
of which three companies (370 men) are stationed here, 
and the remaining company at West Point. 

The United-States Arsenal at Watervliet, near Troy, 
was founded by Col. Bomford, in 1814, and covers over 
100 acres, with 40 buildings for making, 
repairing and storing munitions 
of war. \\\ 1861-5, i,5oopei- 
sons were employed here, 
day and night. Many military trophies are preserved on the 
grounds. The great gun-factory for the United- States Army 
has recently been established here. 

The United-States Navy Yard at Brooklyn is the chief 
naval station of the Republic, and contains many acres of 
foundries, store-houses, and workshops, trophy-batteries, and 
a naval museum, large barracks and hospitals, and two docks, 
which cost $5,000,000. 

The military defences of New-York 
City include the great fortresses at the 
Narrows, converging the fire of 400 heavy 
guns on a passage less than a mile wide. 

Fort Wadsworth, on Staten Island, is supported by several detached 
cliff-batteries, and Fort Tompkins ; and on the opposite shore, under 
Bay Ridge, rise the granite walls of Fort Hamilton, with modern de- 
tached batteries. On a reef in the stream are the ruins of Fort 
Lafayette, once famous as a military prison for disloyal Southerners. 
The inner harbor has 300 cannon in position, in Forts Columbus, 
Gibson and Wood, on the islands. Governor's Island, 
only half a mile from the Battery, contains the three- 
story fortress of Castle William, dating from 1811 ; Fort 
Columbus, a star-shaped work mounting 120 guns; 
the National Military Museum ; and extensive bar- 
racks and magazines. The approaches to New- York 
City from Long-Island Sound are guarded by the 
massive works of Fort Schuyler, on Throgg's Neck, 
and other defences. 

Fort Montgomery, near Rouse's Point, commands 
NEW YORK : ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL. ^hc Richclicu Rlvcr, and was commenced about 1815. 





NEW YORK . TEMPLE EMANUEU 



THE STATE OE NEW YORK. 



60 1 



It is a large stone fortress, with a capacity of 164 
guns. Fort Ontario, at Oswego, has been a military 
post for more than a century, and suffered bombaid- 
ment from Sir James Yeo's fleet in 1814. Fort Niagara 
is a small and ancient defence at the mouth of Niagara 
River. Fort Porter, at Buffalo, built in 1 842-8, and 
a military depot during the Secession War, has been 
replaced by barracks. Sackett's Harbor, the seat of 
the chief naval station on Lake Ontario 
in the war of 181 2, and often attacked by 
British squadrons, is guarded by the Madi- 
son Barracks. Another large military 
cantonment was established at Platts- 
burg in 1838, and is still in use. The 
National buildings include the Post-Office 
(finished in 1875; having cost $7,000,000), 
Custom-House (built in 1835; '^^^t $1,- 
800,000), and the beautiful marble Sub- 
Treasury at New-York City, and the huge 
and costly public offices at Brooklyn, Albany, and 
other cities. 

The Chief Cities of the Empire State are among 
the most attractive and prosperous on the western 
continent. The great metropolis and emporium of 
the State and of the Republic is New York, second 
only to London in population and influence, and with 
its contiguous and dependent municipalities mam- 
taining a population of 2,500,000. The city proper 
occupies Manhattan Island, 13 miles long, between 
the Hudson River and the deep estuary of the East 
River, together with 12,500 
(annexed in 1874) ; and now 
with its two deep ship-chan- 
New-York Bay is entered 
tween Staten Island and 




GARDEN CITY . CATHEDRAL AND SCHOOLS. 



ses. This magnificent 
lyn, NewYork and Jersey 
tains. It is one of the 
Nearly two thirds 
States passes 



world. 
United 




NEW YORK : MADISON SQUARE GARDEN 



acres of the mainland on the north, as far as Yonkers 
has about 1,600,000 inhabitants. The Lower Bay, 
nels, lies between Sandy Hook and Coney Island ; and 
thence by the picturesque strait called the Narrows, be- 
Long Island, and hemmed with heavily-armed fortres- 
inner harbor is fringed by the populous shores of Brook- 
City, and overlooked by the blue Orange Moun- 
most beautiful and impressive harbors in the 
of the import and export business of the 
through this port. New York is also the 
foremost manufacturing city in America, with 
11,000 factories, making upwards of $500,- 
000,000 worth of goods yearly ($80,000,000 
worth of clothing, $25,000,000 worth of 
books and papers, and $18,000,000 
worth of cigars). The chief gateway 
of the Republic for European immi- 
grants, until 1 89 1, was Castle Garden, 
on Battery Park, where ten million 
persons made their first landing in 
America. Its largest structure is the old 
fortress of Castle Clinton, built in 1807, 



6o2 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEW YORK : NATIONAL ACADEMY OF DESIGN. 



and ceded to New "Vork in 1823. Immigrants are now 
received at Ellis Islan d. Many of the arriving European s 
settle in the metropolis, one sixth of whose population 
is Irish, and one eighth German, with large colonies of 
Britons, Canadians, Frenchmen, Italians, Russians, 
Spaniards, Chinamen, and other nationalities. This is 
the most cosmopolitan of American cities, with a Par- 
isian vivacity and brilliancy, and an astonishing ver- 
satility of gifts. With its great publishing houses, the 
Harpers, Scribners, Appletons and others, its inimitable 
magazines, and its strong literary societies. New York 
rivals Boston as a centre of letters. In music and in 
art it holds an indisputable preeminence. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, in Central 
Park, is one of the largest collections in the world, and much the most important in 
America, with its Cesnola. treasure-trove from Cyprus, the Summerville gems, valuable 
collections of statuary, and many hundreds of paintings, including Rosa Bonheur's Horse 
Fair, Rubens's Return from Egypt, Couture's Decadence of Rome, Rembrandt's Burgomaster, 
Velazquez's Do7t Baltasar, Van Dyck's Duke of Richmond, Turner's Saltash, and many 
other noble works. The gallery of the Lenox Library has 150 fine pictures, by Turner, 
Gainsborough, Reynolds, Vernet and other masters. The American Museum of Natural 
History is a mammoth structure, on one side of Central Park, containing collections of 
birds, shells, fossils, birds' nests, minerals, reptiles, fishes, and ethnological antiquities, un- 
rivalled elsewhere in America. Among the statues in New- 
York City are those of Washington, Lafayette, Lincoln, Ham- 
ilton, Farragut, Webster, Seward, Shakespeare, Burns, Sir 
Walter Scott, Franklin, Garibaldi, Fitz-Greene Halleck, and 
Bolivar, with colossal bronze busts of Mazzini, Schiller, Hum- 
boldt, and Beethoven. The Obelisk, in Central Park, was 
erected in Egypt 3,500 years ago by King Thutmes III., 
and brought here in 1877, ^7 Wm. H. Vanderbilt. Many 
of the statues are in Central Park, the most beautiful 
and popular pleasure-ground in America, constructed since 
1856, at a cost of $15,000,000, and covering 862 acres, five 
miles north of the Battery. 

Among the wonders of the city are the elevated railroads, with their trains of cars con- 
tinually flying up and down Manhattan Island ; the swarms of great steam ferry-boats, 
traversing the East River and Hudson River ; the municipal palaces on City-Hall Square; 
the vast prisons and asylums on Blackwell's, Randall's and Ward's Islands ; the summer 
pleasures of Coney Island, Rockaway and Long Branch ; the luxurious homes of Fifth 
Avenue, where the Vanderbilts, Belmonts, Lorillards, Astors, and others dwell ; the pala- 
tial club-houses of the Union League, Manhattan, St. Nicholas, University, and other 
clubs; the rich collections of the Geographical, Historical, Ethnological, Numismatic, Micro- 
scopical, Horticultural and other societies ; the fortress-like armories of the militia regi- 
ments ; and the prodigious buildings of the 



World, Times, Tribune, Staats Zeitung 
and other newspapers on Printing- House 
Square. 

The great city of Brooklyn, famous for 

:;j^^ its hundreds of churches, is practically a 

;_ residence-quarter of New York. Its pop- 

' ulation has increased from 7,175 in 1820 

to over 800,000 in 1890. It has eight miles 




METROPOLITAN OPERA HOUSE. 




i^ W^ i ivHii^ Itt^i tj« 



-4 




NEW YORK : METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. 



THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



6o3 





of water-front, on East River and Gowanus Bay, 
with huge docks and basins, where $300,000,000 
worth of goods are stored every year. Prospect Park 
covers over 600 acres, with delightful ocean-views, 
and has no superior in America. Green Wood 
Cemetery is the most beautiful in the world. Brook - 
~Nhw-YORK HARBOR : ly" is thc fourth American city in manufactures, its 

CASTLE WILLIAM, ON GOVERNOR'S ISLAND. products amounting to $iSo,000,ooo yearly. 

Buffalo is one of the three chief 
ports on the Great Lakes, with enor- 
mous receipts of grain, lumber and 
live-stock, and shipments of coal, salt 
and cement, and long lines of ele- 
vators and flour-mills. This city comes 
close to Pittsburgh, in its iron and steel new-york harbor : fort wadswo- 1 , >. -taten island. 

works, and also has oil-refineries, breweries, leather-works and many other manufactories, 
employing iS,ooo operatives, and with a yearly product of $45,000,000. There are many in- 
teresting public buildings ; and handsome parks and boulevards, which have cost $1,500,000. 
The harbor is the best on Lake Erie, with protecting breakwaters and a tall light-house ; and 
the Erie Basin is the beginning of the world-renowned Erie Canal. Nineteen railroads 
enter Buffalo; and four steamship lines, with 56 first-class steamers, of from 1,800 to 2,800 
tons, running to the ports 1 of the Great Lakes. Over 160,000,000 bushels of grain 

and flour have been received <^ lii. here in a single year. The City and County Hall is a 

noble structure of Maine granite, built at a cost 
of $i,350;000, and occupied in 1876. The 
Music-Hail building is a handsome Romanesque 
edifice. The Buffalo Library has a magnificent 
fire-proof building, finished in 1887, at a cost 
of $350,000, and containing also the Fine- Arts 
Academy, Society of Natural History, and 
Buffalo Historical Society. 
There are 30 cities in this great State. Albany, 142 miles up the Hudson, was founded 
by the Dutch, as Fort Orange, in 1623, and is at the eastern end of the great Erie Canal, 
with magnificent State, city and ecclesiastical buildings, and a situation which has won 
for it the name of "The Edinburgh of America. " Here also are great stove-foundries, 
breweries, and cattle-yards, employing 15,000 persons. Amsterdam (17,336 inhabitants), 
with its great knit-goods and broom factories, rests on the rich intervales of the Mohawk. 
Auburn (25,858), the capital of Cayuga County, utilizes the water-power of the Owasco 
Outlet. Binghamton (35,005), "The Parlor City," 
is an iron and coal handling railroad centre on the Sus- 
quehanna and Chenango. Cohoes (22, 509), three miles 
from Troy, has a great water-power at the mouth i ^ •"- 
of the Mohawk, with many factories. Dunkirk -^-^t7 
(9,416) extends along an artifical harbor 
on Lake Erie. Elmira (29,708), on the 
Chemung, is the chief city of the southern 
tier of counties, with car-shops and a large 
country trade. Hornellsville (10,996) has 
several railways among the hills of Steu- 
ben. Hudson (9,970), on a high plateau 
at the head of ship-navigation on the Hud- 
son River, was founded in 1783 by New- Brooklyn : green wood cemetery entrance. 




BROOKLYN : CITY HALL AND COURT HOUSE, 




6o4 A'JNG'S HANDBOOK OF TJIK UNITED STATES. 

Englanders as a whaling-port. Ithaca (i 1,079) r^^sts in a beautiful region of glens and cas- 
cades, at the head of Cayuga Lake. Jamestown (16,038) is on the outlet of Chautauqua 
Lake. Kingston (21,261), the venerable capital of Ulster, with its academies, lies on the 
Hudson, near the Catskill Mountains, and ships blue-stone, brick and hydraulic cement. 
Lockport (16,038) has the long series of locks by which the Erie Canal descends from the 
Erie level to the Genesee level. Long-Island City (30,506) fronts New-York City, across 
the East River. Middletown (11,977) lies near the Shawangunk Mountains, and supplies 
the Orange Valley. Newburgh (23,087) has a pleasant site on the Hudson, just above 
West Point, with great shipments of Pennsylvania coal. The mystery of ice-yachting has 
its highest development here. Ogdensburg (11,662) is on the St. -Lawrence River, and 
handles great quantities of grain. Oswego (21,842), the chief harbor on Lake Ontario, 
is another important grain-port, with large flour-mills. Poughkeepsie (22,206) crowns a 
breezy plateau by the Hudson, and has several famous schools and a valuable country-trade. 
Rochester, at the Genesee Falls, seven miles from Lake Ontario, contains immense flour- 
mills, and world-renowned nurseries of flowers and fruits. Rome (14,991) is a railway 
and canal centre, with farming-implement factories, on the site of old Fort Stanwix, near 
the Mohawk. Schenectady (19,902) is an old Dutch city on the Mohawk meadows, with 
car, locomotive and machine works, 17 miles west of Albany. Syracuse, near Onondaga 
Lake and its great salt-works, and midway between Albany and Buffalo (hence called "The 
Central City"), has costly public buildings and lucrative manufactures, and a large Lake- 
Ontario commerce. Troy, six miles north of Albany, and at the head of steam navigation 
on the Hudson, is famous for its stove-foundries and rolling-mills and laundries. Utica is 
a railway and canal centre, in the rich and prosperous centre of New York. Watertown 
(14,725) has several factories on the rapids of Black River, in the north. Yonkers (32,033) 
is a handsome suburb of New- York City, on the Hudson and facing the Palisades. Among 
the other large towns are Corning, 8,550; Flushing, 10,868; Geneva, 5,878; Glovers- 
ville, 13,864; Lansingburgh, 10,550; Little Falls, 8,783; Mount Vernon, 10,677; New 
Brighton, 16,423; New Rochelle, 8,318 ; Peekskill, 9,676; Port Jervis, 9,327; Saratoga 
Springs, 11,975 ; Sing Sing, 9,352 ; and West Troy, 12,967. 

In Maritime Commerce and ship-building New York leads all the States. She 
builds one fifth (in value) of the American commercial fleets, and owns one fourth of 
them. Five eighths of the canal boats in the Republic belong here. 

The fisheries employ 7,000 men and 540 vessels, with a yearly product of above 
$4,000,000. The imports approximate $500,000,000 yearly, and the exports $400,000,000. 

The internal trade of New York exceeds $2,000,000,000 a year ; $1,650,000,000 worth 
of freight passes over the railroads, $150,000,000 over the canals, and $250,000,000 over 
the sound and lakes. 

Canals were first planned here in 1761, by Gen. Philip Schuyler, who devised a water- 
route by the Mohawk to Oneida Lake and Lake Ontario. It was discussed before the 
Legislature by Sir Henry Moore, in 1768, and recommended later by Gen. Washington. 
In 1796, 16-ton boats passed from Schenectady to Oneida Lake and Lake Ontario, by the 
locks and canal of the Western Navigation Company. The Erie Canal was begun at 
Rome in 1817, and finished in 1825, when the water of Lake Erie entered the "Great 
Ditch," and a triumphal flotilla started down its course from Buffalo to Albany, bearing 
Gov. De Witt Clinton, Col. W. L. Stone, the Van Rensselaers, and others. From Albany 
the boats were towed to New York, and out to sea beyond Sandy Hook, where barrels of 
Lake-Erie water mingled with the salt tides, in the presence of an imposing marine pro- 
cession. This vast public work has been the means of transporting billions of dollars' 
worth of Western products to the sea, and has had a powerful influence in making New 
York the great shipping-port of America. It is seven feet deep, 52^ feet wide at the bot- 
tom, and from 70 to 80 at the top. The length is 364 miles. The canal was intended 
for 100-ton boats, but the volume of business quickly overflowed these dimensions, and 



THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 




6o6 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEW YORK : UNION SQUARE. 



between 1832 and 1862 the prism and locks were 
enlarged to carry 240-ton vessels. The boats cost 
from $3,000 to $5,000 each, and make six round 
trips every season, each carrying more than a 
freight-train, and running from Buffalo to Albany, 
in eleven days and nights, the crews being divided 
into two watches. During the season 150 boats 
reach the Hudson daily. There are 75 steam 
canal-boats. For many years the Erie Canal was 
traversed by regular lines of packet-boats for pas- 
sengers, gliding at the rate of six miles an hour 
through the romantic and beautiful scenery of 
Central New York. 

The total cost of building the Erie Canal has been in excess of $50,000,000, but it has 
been repaid to the State by tolls, together with the cost of superintendence and repairs, 
and a clear profit of above $40,000,000. In 1862 alone the tolls on the New- York canal* 
exceeded $5,000,000; ajid in 1868 the value of merchandise carried was $305,000,000. 
The maximum tonnage (6,673,370), was transported in 1872. In 1844 the canal-boats 
averaged 64 tons ; and in 1880 they reached 212 tons. The cost of freight from Albany 
to Buffalo was 25 cents a ton a mile, in 1820. In 1884, it had fallen to 27.7 mills. The 
saving on the cost of the freight moved between Albany and Buffalo in 1850 alone was 
$252,000,000. In 1882, the people of New York voted, 486,105 to 163,151, to abolish the 
tolls on their canals, and make them free forever. The United-States Government is now 
contemplating enlarging the Erie and Champlain Canals into water-routes for ships. 

The Champlain Canal, joining Lake Champlain to the Hudson at Fort Edward, and 
by slack-water navigation reaching the Erie Canal near Cohoes, was built in 1818-23, and 
is the avenue of a large commerce. The Black-River Canal, built in 1836-49, runs from 
Rome to Boonville, on Black River, and has 106 locks in ?>']\ miles. The Chenango Canal 
from Utica to Binghamton, 97 miles ; the Chenango Extension, beyond Binghamton ; the 
Crooked-Lake Canal, from Penn Yan to Dresden, on Seneca Lake ; the Chemung Canal, 
from Elmira to Watkins, on Seneca Lake ; the Genesee-Valley Canal, from Rochester to 

the Allegany River ; 
and the Junction and 
Oneida - Lake canals ; 
were built between 1 830 
and 1840, at a cost ot 
over $12,000,000, and 
were abandoned be- 
tween 1874 and 1878. 
The canals cost the 
State for their construc- 
tion and enlargement, 
.$101,000,000 during 
the half-century, 1S25 
to 1875. For some 
years past the canals 
have accommodated 
annually a tonnage of 
about 5,000,000. In 
1884 this was divided, 
as follows : Erie, 3,- 
840 , 000 ; Champlain, 




NEW YORK : CITY-HALL PARK AND PRINTING-HOUSE SQUARE. 
ITr HALL. "world." "SUN." "TRIBUNE." "TIMES.' 




NEW YORK . MANHATTAN CLUB. 



THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 

1,230,000; Cayuga and Seneca, 196,000; Oswego, 176,. 
077 ; and Black River, 112,000. Eastward-bound floated 
4,000,000 tons ; westward-bound, 1,600,000. Of this vast 
freight, 1,600,000 tons were farm-products; 1,500,000, 
forest - products ; 380,000, merchandise; and 200,000 
manufactured goods. In 1888 the canal business fell 
away 500,000 tons, owing to short crops, grain corners, 
high freight-rates, and rate-cutting by railroads. 

The Delaware & Hudson Canal was built in 1825-8, 
at a cost of $2,000,000, and extends from Rondout, on the 
Hudson to Port Jervis, on the Delaware, 59 miles ; thence 
up the Delaware Valley to Lackawaxen, 24 miles ; and 
thence to the coal-mines at Honesdale (Penn. ), 26 miles. There are 109 locks, with a total 
rise and fall of 950 feet. The depth is 6 feet ; and 1 20- ton boats are used. This canal was 
built by a private company, to whom it still belongs; and is mainly used for transporting coal. 
The Bridges of this State include some celebrated engineering 
works. The East-River Bridge is 5,989 feet long, and 135 feet above 
the water, erected in 1870-83, at a cost of $15,000,000. This 
greatest of bridges is suspended by steel-wire 
cables from stone piers 272 feet above high tide, 
and carries a promenade, railway tracks, and car- 
riage-ways, joining Brooklyn and New York. The 
bridge was designed by John A. Roebling ; and its 
wonderful suspended superstructure, of fitted steel, 
was made by the Edge Moor Bridge Works, of 
Wilmington (Del. ). The Poughkeepsie Bridge is i|- 
miles long, and rests on four pyramidal steel towers 
100 feet high (20 feet below high water), and these 
again upon timber caissons 60 by 100 feet and 100 
feet high. There are three cantilevers, with connec- 
tion spans. This bridge was begun in 1873, ^^ afford 
unbroken railway communication 'between the Penn- 
sylvania coal-fields and the New-England cities. 
The International Bridge from Black Rock (Buffalo) to Fort Erie (in Canada) was built 
in 1870-73, with English capital, under the authority of Congress and Parliament and the 
State and Province Governments. The cost was about $1,500,000. Crossing the Niagara 
River, the bridge is 1,9675^ feet long, with two draw-open- 
ings of 160 feet each. It then traverses Squaw Island for 
1,167 feet, and Black-Rock Harbor for 517 feet, making a 
total length of 3,651^ feet. It is mainly used for railway 
freight traffic, and unites the New- York Central, West- 
Shore, Erie, Lackawanna, and Lehigh-Valley lines with 
the Grand Trunk and Michigan Central routes. The 
wonderful Cantilever Bridge, near Niagara Falls, 
is one of the most interesting of American me- 
chanical triumphs. It rests on lofty steel towers 
rising from the shores of the wild rushing river; 
and sustains a double-track railway, used by the 
heaviest trains. Not far away is the famous Sus- 
pension Bridge, built by Roebling in 1852-5. 
The New Suspension Bridge near Niagara P'alls 
is 200 feet above the rushing river. The Arthur- 




NEW YORK : UNION LEAGUE CLUB. 




BUFFALO : THE CITY HALL. 



6o8 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




BUFFALO : ELEVATORS AND COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. 



- Kill Bridge crosses from New Jersey to Staten 
Island, and was authorized by Congress, the 
United-States courts overruling the injunction 
placed on it by New Jersey. Its drawbridge 
is the largest in the world (500 feet long). 
The new Washington Bridge, in New-York 
City, was built in 1886-90, at a cost of above 
$3,000,000, and is mainly composed of two 
arches of Bessemer steel, each of 508 feet, 
springing from high granite abutments, and 
carrying a 50-foot roadway of Trinidad as- 
phalt, besides broad sidewalks. The Key- 
stone Bridge Company, of Pittsburgh, built 
the Arthur-Kill Bridge, and also the Madison-Avenue Bridge, at New York, and the Iron Pier, 
at Coney Island. The High Bridge is a noble granite structure, 1,450 feet long and 114 feet 
high, carrying the Croton Aqueduct across the deep Harlem Valley, on 14 massive piers. 

The new dam of the Croton Water-Works, at Quaker Bridge, is the largest in the world. 
It was constructed in 1887-91, at a cost of $3,000,000, and is 1,350 feet long and 277 feet 
high, and 216 feet wide at the bottom. 40,000,000,000 gallons, or the rainfall of 300 
square miles, will be impounded by this gigantic rampart. 

Another interesting work of New- York engineers is the great Croton Aqueduct, over 
40 miles long, finished in 1842, at a cost of nearly $30,000,000, Over $60,000,000 has 
been collected in water-i-ates. The tunnels, now being cut under the broad Hudson River, 
from New-York City to the New-Jersey shore were begun in 1873. The Cataract Con- 
struction Company is cutting a large hydraulic tunnel through the rock, from a mile or 
two above Niagara Falls to the Niagara River below the falls, to utilize the illimitable 
water-power here running to waste. The Vanderbilts, Belmonts, Brown Bros. & Co., and 
other wealthy New-Yorkers are stockholders ; and it is expected that this development will 
build up one of the great manufacturing centres of the world, and (by the easy and inex- 
pensive transmission of electrical power generated here) will make Buffalo a huge metrop- 
olis of industrial enterprises of all varieties. 

Railroads in this State, for passenger-service, were inaugurated by the route from 
Albany to Schenectady, which began operations in 1S31. This road was followed by that 




BUFFALO AND THE NIAGARA RIVER. 



THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



609 



from Schenectady to Utica, in 1836 ; Auburn to Syracuse 1838 ; Lockport ^o Nkgara Fal_b 
,8.8- Utica to Syracuse, 1839; Auburn to Rochester, 1841 ; Schenectady to Troy Attica 
to Buffalo and Ae Tonawanda Road, 1842. These lines were consolidated mto the New- 
Vork Central in 1853, which absorbed also the Hudson-River Railroad built m 1851 ; the 
New York & Harlem, chartered in 1831 ; and (in 1885) the New-York, West-Shore & 
Buffalo TheNew-Yorkrailroadshave4,ooolocomotives, 4, 500 passenger-cars, and 150,000 
freight-cars. Their earnings have exceeded $125,000,000 m a year. 




ALBANY AND THE STATE CAPITOL. 

Finances -The State has a very small debt, mainly for canals and the Niagara Park 
altho gh'fexpenditures have been liberal. Between X867 and 1887 the a-ble property 
more than douUed, rising from $1,664,107,7^5 to ^3,36i,i28,i77, whd the St ^e^^^ 
from *i2 6a7 2IQ to $0 075,046. During these 20 years the taxable property paia state 
ax" t^etat ng %^^Looo,L. It is tite opinion of the comptroller that over $2, 500 - 
S^ 000 mofe mosfly in personal property, should be taxed. In that case the valuation, o 
?^;Torwould exceed $6,000,000,000. In 1812 the State contamed -« banks, wtth an 
authorized capital of $19,000,000 ; In 1836, their number reached 85, capitalized at $,i - 
o^ 000 111856, there were 303, -ith $96,000,000 in capital, ^he present number is 4", 
S a capital of $i04,ooo,o<i, and loans and deposits each amounting to nearly $500 - 
000 000 In addUion over $600,000,000 are deposited in the savings-banks of the S ate 
New-York City is the financial centre and arbiter of the United States, and contro s 
the molTary nfarkets of the Republic with absolute mastery. The -ssing of st.h mcaU 
nnlnble stims in the vicinity of Wall Street, the congregating of the brightest of American 
fitn er fn the magnet-like metropolis, and the action and reaction of such resources and 
trh genius upon the country at large, has made New York the financial capital. 

The C earLg-House of New-York City is a building on Pine Street, where each of the 
88 a^Lcialfd b'nks exchange daily the checks and bills received rom al the other banks 
for the checks and bills of its own held by the other banks. If the balance is against it, 

r;;::'c^,:^?. c.aT The ™ireT„p=™.io„, f„ .«„.ce„ds ..a, of all .he ... of 

the Union, and has 
exceeded $50,000,- 
000,000 in a single 
year, or over fifty 
times the amount of 
the National debt. 

The Stock Ex- 
change occupies a 
marble building on 
Wall Street. It has 
1,100 members, who 




NEWBURGH AND THE HUDSON RIVER. 



6io 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




-rs^ia^h 



HE COTTON EXCHANGE. 



assemble in the main hall daily for the purchase and sale of 
securities, stocks and bonds, millions of dollars' worth of which 
change hands daily. From the visitors' gallery, the "bulls" 
and "bears" may be seen and heard in continual conflict, ad- 
vancing or depressing the prices of stocks, amid prodigious 
noise and excitement. 

The Consolidated Stock and Petroleum Exchange occupies 
a handsome modern building extending from Broadway to New 
Street. It began operations in 1875, ^^ the New- York Mining 
Stock Exchange. Here are sold on an average more than 75,000 
shares of stock daily. There are 2,400 members. The trans 
actions in railroad bonds are heavy, and the sales of petroleum 
reach 2,500,000,000 barrels a year. The Produce Exchange , 
has a magnificent building on Bowling Green, with a clock- 
tower 200 feet high. The Cotton Exchange has a million-dol- 
lar building on Hanover Square. 

The U.-S. Sub-Treasury, a handsome white granite building, in the style of an ancient 
Greek temple, with ponderous Doric porticoes, stands amid the great banking houses on 
Wall Street. The front is adorned with Ward's noble statue of Washington taking the 
oath of office as President, an event which occurred on this exact site. 

The U.-S. Assay Office, adjoining the Sub- 
Treasury, occupies the building constructed in 
1823 for the Branch Bank of the United States, 
and now the oldest edifice on Wall Street. From 
1)20,000,000 to $100,000,000 in crude bullion are 
received here every year, to be assayed, refined, 
separated and cast into bars, which are piled up 
in the vaults in glittering heaps of yellow gold 
and white silver. 

Architecturally and in other respects the Mills 
Building is a notable structure. D. O. Mills went 
to California in '49, and afterwards became well 
known in the banking business in Sacramento, and in the public life of the State and the 
Nation. He has been known in Wall Street for almost 40 years, and it has been variously 
estimated that he is worth from $10,000,000 to $20,000,000. The Mills Building was 
erected in 1881-2. It is ten stories in height, and contains nearly five acres of floor surface, 
divided into 300 offices. The dimensions of the lot upon which it stands are as follows : 
on Wall Street, 28 feet 11 inches ; on Broad Street, 175 feet , 
Exchange Place, 150 feet. The arrangement of the open 
court on Broad Street gives direct light and ventilation to all 
the offices, leaving no dark corners, such as are found in 
other mammoth buildings. The basement and first and sec- 
ond stories are of large dimensions, designed for the accom- 
modation of railroad companies and bankers ; and are pro- 
vided with massive burglar-proof safes. On the floors 
above, the offices are of sizes appropriate for lawyers, real- 
estate agents and the like. The facades are of Belle- 
ville stone and Philadelphia brick, and the enriched 
panels are either carved in this, stone or moulded in 
red terra-cotta. The absence of pillars to support the 
floors is a peculiarity of the structure, adding much 
to the convenience and beauty of apartments in it. new vork ; the mills building. 




^^-^^--S-f^ 



NEW YORK : THE PRODUCE EXCHANGE. 




THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 

The Chemical Bank was founded in New York more than 60 years 
ago, its originators having been connected with that branch of business 
which gives it its name. In many respects this is one of the most remark- 
able financial institutions in the world, and the largest and most famous 
bank in America. Amid the great panics which have from time to time 
swept over the country, the Chemical Bank has stood firm, without em- 
barrassment or suspension. For this reason, on the resumption of pros- 
perity, great numbers of accounts were transferred to this bank, resulting 
in an increasing volume of profits. The astonishing appreciation of its 
conduct and policy is seen in the fact that the Chemical stock based on a 
par value of $100 (though actually $25) sells for $4,600 a share. The 
directorate includes some of the foremost men in New-York City. The 
Chemical National Bank has a capital of $300,000, with a surplus fund of 
$6,000,000, undivided profits of nearly $300,000, and resources amount- 
ing to $35,000,000, including over $7,000,000 in specie. 

The buildings are modest and unobtrusive, although commodious 
structures, extending from Broadway around to Chambers Street, and fully 
indicate the silent yet powerful financial institution whose ramifications 
extend throughout the world. new york : 

The widely-known First National Bank of New York was organized chemical nat. bank. 
in July, 1863, and immediately took an active part in placing the United-States Government 
loans In all subsequent Government loans it has been prominently identified, and m 1879, 
durin<^ the funding operation of that year the sales of United- States bonds aggregated nearly 
$500 000,000, and its deposits, including those of the United-States Treasurer, amounted 
to about $200,000,000. Its special line of effort from the first, however, has been devoted 
to acting as reserve agent for and receiving deposits of out-of-town banks, which have 
reached 1 sum larger than that of any other institution. The bank pays 100 per cent, per 




annum in regular quarterly divi- 
greater surplus and undivided 
other bank in the United States. 
the United Bank Building, at 
Broadway, said to be the most 
The National Bank of the 
of nearly 40 years. It purchased 
Broadway, the most valuable 
February, 1851, for $110,000. 
half in "The United Bank Build- 
ground and two adjoining lots, 
$637,000, and the market value 
Civil War, this was the leading 
and in 1865 it changed to a 
and character are well estab- 
the United States. The recent 
ness is unparalleled. On May I 




dends, and has accumulated a 
profits ($6,702,843), than any 
It is an undivided half owner of 
the corner of Wall Street and 
valuable site in this country. 
Republic has had an existence 
the corner of Wall Street and 
ground in North America, in 
It now owns an undivided one 
ing," erected in 1880, on that 
the book value of which is 
over $1,000,000. Prior to the 
State bank in Southern business, 
National bank. Its standing 
lished, and it is a depository of 
increase in its volume of busi- 



NEW YORK : UNITED BANK BLG. 

FIRST NATIONAL BANK. 

NATIONAL BANK OF THE REPUBLIC. 

^- -— ., -, 1884. John Jay Knox, after 22 years of government service, 
and twe'lvryearsirComptroller of the Currency, accepted the presidency. The net deposits 
were then $4,378,671 ; the discounts, $3,359,523 ; the surplus and profits, $668,335. Dur- 
ing the last six years, there has been an increase of $8,577,100 in deposits, $5,654,125 in 
loans, and $256,978 in surplus and profits, after the payment of the eight per cent, regular 
dividends. The stock which sold for 112 now readily commands 190 in the market. The 
directory is composed of a careful body of experienced men, of large means and influence ; 
and the cashier, E. H. Pullen, has been 30 years in the bank. Its capital and aggregate 
profits are nearly $2,500,000; its deposits $15,600,000, and its resources $18,000,000. 



6l2 



A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEW YORK : 
NATIONAL PARK BANK. 



f°°^ 



The National Park Bank of New York is famous for its enor- 
mous number of accounts with banks and bankers throughout the 
United States (and especially in the South), in which regard it 
probably stands at the head. The business thus entailed requires 
the attention of more than loo clerks. The Park Bank was organ- 
ized in 1856, and became a National bank in 1865. Three years 
later, it moved into the magnificent marble edifice which it had 
built for itself, on the site of Barnum's Museum, and in the heart 
of the busiest part of New York. The banking-rooms are not ex- 
celled by any in the city ; and below them are invincible safe-de- 
posit vaults, provided with every convenience for the use of custom- 
ers. The capital-stock of the National Park Bank is $2,ooo,cx)0, 
with a surplus of $2,400,000. The average deposits amount to 
.$27,000,000. The dividends amount to ten per cent, yearly; and 
the stock sells for $336 a share. Ebenezer K. Wright is President ; 
Jas. H. Parker, Vice-President ; and George S. Hickok, Cashier. 
The Bank of America rose on the ruins of the old Bank of the 
United States, several of whose directors became its active pro- 
moters, intending to attract to it much of the capital and business 
of the dying corporation, and thus make it what its name implies. 
In 1812 the Bank of America received a charter, providing for a 
capital stock of $6,000,000, and requiring it to pay the State 
$600,000 and to loan it $2,000,000. Oliver Wolcott, ex-sec- 
retary of the United-States Treasury, was the first president, 
and the directorate included 18 of the foremost citizens of 
New York. The war of 1812, the multiplication of banks, 
and the inflation and depreciation of the currency prevented 
the full success of the enterprise, and its capital was reduced 
to $2,000,000. The bank was reorganized under the General 
Banking Act of 1838, and for many years served as the local 
depository of the National funds. From 1857 until the old 
building was removed it was the depository for gold coin for 
the associated banks, issuing certificates payable in coin, and 
having at times upwards of $47,000,000 in gold in its charge. 
The home of the Bank of America was a quaint and massive 
structure in Egyptian architecture, dating from the year 1835. 
On the same site now stands the lofty and magnificent new 

granite building, erected in 1 888-9 for the home of this great 
financial corporation. The capital of the bank is $3,000,000, 
with a surplus and undivided profits of $2,000,000. 

The Fourth National Bank of the City of New York wa? 
organized in January, 1864, being the fourth New- York bank 
organized under the provisions of the National Bank Act of 
1863. The movement to create the bank was initiated by 
many leading citizens of New York, and its first president was 
the Hon. George Opdyke, who had just completed his term 
of office as Mayor of the city. The bank in 1888 secured as 
president J. Edward Simmons, who having held various posi- 
tions of trust and responsibility was fitted by experience as well 
as by business capacity to preside over the fortunes of such 
an institution. The Vice-President is James G. Cannon, and 
■u.^ »,«o > the Cashier is Charles H. Patterson, The capital-stock is 

NEW YORK : FOURTH NATIONAL BANK. "- ^ r 




NEW YORK BANK OF AMERICA 




THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



613 




NEA' YORK : 
HANOVER NATIONAL BANK. 



$3,200,000, and the surplus and undivided profits amount to 
$1,700,000. The deposits average $20,000,000, and the loans 
and discounts $ 1 8, 000, 000. The business of the Fourth National 
Bank extends to every section of the country, and it has corre- 
spondents at all principal points. 

The Hanover National Bank, of New York, received its 
charter in 1851, and began business in Hanover Square, vi'hence 
it moved to 33 Nassau Street, and in 1877 to its present home on 
Nassau and Pine Streets. By judicious activity in conservative 
channels it has been able to pay over $2,000,000 in dividends, 
besides accumulating a surplus of over $1,500,000. These repre- 
sent an aggregate yield of more than ten per cent, on the stock. 
The market value of the stock is $350 per share of $100 par value. 
The Hanover is proverbially rich in cash resources, and it is not 
unusual to see it with 40 per cent, of its deposits on hand in 
money. The present deposit amounts to nearly $18,000,000, 
and is continually growing. The Hanover has a large corre- 
spondence with outside banks, and a valuable and excellently conducted foreign-exchange 

business ; and serves as a United-States depositary, having 
had a creditable share in upholding and advancing the 
credit of the Republic. 

One of the foremost of the financial institutions of the 
State outside of New- York City is the Bank of Buffalo, 
with a capital of $300,000, and a surplus of the same 
amount. Sharing in and advancing the development of 
Buffalo, as it has grown from the place of a small lake- 
port to that of one of the twelve great cities of the United 
States, this bank has achieved an unprecedented prosperity, 
without departing from the safe lines of commercial 
policy, and holds deposits of above $4,000,000. Under 
the direction of President S. S. Jewett and Cashier Wm. 
C. Cornwell, and a strong board of directors, the bank has 
carried out many advanced ideas in financiering, while re- 
taining the conservative principle that a substantial per- 
centage of its deposits should be carried in cash or quick assets. 
Although founded as recently as 1873, this institution has revolution- 
ized the banking business in Buffalo, and its counting-room is visited 
daily by the leading business men of the city. 

The Trust Companies are of paramount interest in New- York 
financial circles. They act as legal depositories for moneys paid into 
court, and for the funds of executors and administrators, as the 
trustees of estates, and in various other capacities. The greatest of 
these institutions in all this country is the United-States Trust Com- 
pany, of New York, a strong and conservative corporation of many 
years' standing, trustee and guardian of many important estates and 
depository of trust funds. Its capital ($2,000,000), together with its 
surplus ($7, 500,000), reaches the colossal sum of $9, 500,000 ; its de- 
posits are about $36,500,000, and its gross assets $47,000,000. In 
the concentration of National wealth at New York, there are many 
great estates and corporations with investible funds, which find their 
best disposition in the control of such an institution as this, whose ^^^ york ; 

officers are always vigilant for the security of the great trusts com- united-states trust co. 




buffalo: bank of buffalo. 





NEW YORK : 
CENTRAL TRUST CO. 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

mitted to their charge. The building of the United-States Trust 
Company on Wall Street is a noble specimen of architecture, erected 
at a cost of over $1,000,000. The banking rooms have an air of 
simple grandeur, rarely seen in a place of business. 

The Central Trust Company of New York is under the presidency 
of Frederick P. Olcott. Its advance among the famous fiduciary in- 
terests of the metropolis shows an unusual reward for foresight and 
enterprise, and has a record unequalled in its way on this continent. 
The capital stock is .$1,000,000, and on this amount, between January, 
1890, and March, 1891, the company declared bi-monthly dividends of 
five per cent., besides adding $420,000 to surplus account. Thus the 
business of 14 months shows a profit nearly equal to the invested capi- 
tal. The surplus in 1884 was $1,500,000, and in the seven years in- 
tervening over $3,000,000 more has been added to this surplus, 
although in the meantime the company has paid dividends averaging 
21^ per cent, a year. The Central Trust Company is a regular modern 
trust company. It allows interest on deposits ; is a legal depository for 
money paid into court ; is authorized to act 
as executor, administrator, guardian, or in any other position of 
trust ; also as registrar or transfer agent of stocks and bonds, and 
as trustee for railroad and other mortgages. Its building is one of 
the notable structures on Wall Street. Its capital and surplus is 
about $5,500,000, and its gross assets about $32,000,000. 

The Equitable Mortgage Company under the presidency of 
Charles N. Fowler has developed to a financial institution of con- 
siderable magnitude. It was founded under the laws of Missouri, 
and has its headquarters in the Evening-Post Building, New York, 
with offices in Philadelphia, Boston, London and Berlin. The 
capital is now $4,000,000. The surplus and undivided profits 
amount to $1,800,000, and the gross assets are over $14,000,000. 
The company issues debentures, and deals in Government, State, 
county, city, school, water and railroad bonds. A prominent and 
interesting field of effort is in loans on farm-mortgages in the 
West and South, made through the local 
banks as loaning agents, thus securing agents 

familiar with the credit and character of the borrowers. The company 
also guards its interests by employing skillful attorneys and salaried 
expert valuers in the regions covered by its systems. In 1890 a com- 
mittee of eight European and seven Eastern capitalists traveled over 
the United States to examine the Equitable's securities and systems, 
and pronounced this verdict : "The mortgage system of the Equitable 
Company is skillfully devised and well adapted to secure a safe and 
prosperous business." 

Merchants and manufacturers have the opportunity of extending 
their trade to a degree limited only by their power to produce and their 
ability to determine the needs of consumers. Commerce — always con- 
servative — follows the lines of knowledge, and advances with the definite 
determination of facts. The work of The Bradstreet Company is recog- 
nized as one of the most potential in gathering, formulating and dis- 
seminating the information necessary for the broadest development and 
the widest extension of all commercial or mercantile pursuits, for it has 
always kept pace with, and even anticipated, the actual advancement, 





NEW YORK 
EQUITABLE MORTGAGE CO. 



NEW YORK : 
THE BRADSTREET CO. 



THE STATE OF NEW YORK. ■ 615 

by its investigation of the material progress and prospects of the world's products, as also 
its careful consideration of the specific details of the responsibility and character so necessary 
to the proper estimate of individual credit. The massive quarto volumes of more than 
2,200 pages contain the estimated worth and recognized credit, classified business, and 
address of more than a million of subjects, besides much other valuable information. Its 
offices nearly compass the earth. That its mighty mission has been fulfilled with fidelity as 
to facts, conservatism as to judgment, conscientiousness as to details, is proven by a record 
which challenges the attention and commands the respect of every person who has sought 
information through its channels or availed himself of its facilities for the investigation 
of personal credits. The Bradstreet Company is the oldest and financially the strongest 
organization of its kind ; working in the one interest and under one management, with 
wider ramifications, with greater investment of capital, and expending more money every 
year for the collection and dissemination of information than any similar institution in the 
world. It has long been recognized and practically endorsed by the highest local courts in 
the United States, and a constantly increasing business justifies the statement that the aid 
and protection afforded by this institution are becoming better unders'tood, and the value of 
the information more fully appreciated. This company issues, under the name of Brad- 
streets, the foremost commercial and financial newspaper of this continent ; a sixteen- 
page weekly, giving the condition of the crops, the markets, and the news of commerce, 
finance and manu- 
discussions on all 
whole contents being 
and unbought. This 
the world over as the 
its particular work, 
list is an index of the 
ness houses of this 
Bradstreet's binderv 
fairly ranks with tli 
and London. For 
ship and delicacy of 
peers and no superi- 




CITY HALL. 



factures, as well as 
kindred topics, the 
absolutely unbiased 
newspaper is quoted 
standard authority in 
and its subscription 
most prominent busi- 
and other countries, 
in its high-class work, 
most famous of Paris 
quality of workman- 
finish it has few com- 
ors. The Bradstreet 

Company has been an important factor in the mercantile world for more than forty years, 
but its preeminent career began in 1876, with its present administration, under the presi- 
dency of Charles F. Clark. 

Life-insurance. — No better evidence of the Christian civilization of the American 
people can be found than in the record of their life-insurance companies. Every State, 
county, city, yes, even hamlets, have their poor-houses, their "homes," and their charitable 
institutions to take care of those who have been improvident or unfortunate. But the noble 
spirit which urges every man to provide as far as he can against all emergencies for his own 
family, and for those who depend on him, is shown by the fact that this country has a long 
list of life-insurance organizations, which are doing on business principles the greatest 
amount of philanthropic service. There are various organizations bearing the name of life- 
insurance companies, but only those carrying out the approved system of sound life-insur- 
ance are worthy of unlimited commendation. There are about a dozen of these in New 
York, and three of them, the Mutual Life, the Equitable Life, and the New-York Life, 
after paying out fabulous sums to widows and orphans and to holders of matured policies, 
have accumulated a grand total of $382,000,000, as security for the policies now in force upon 
the lives of men who are thus mindful of the care of their families. 

Over $8,600,000,000 in life-insurance (covering 4,000,000 policies) is in force in the 
United States, the yearly premiums reaching about $165,000,000, and the yearly payments to 
policy-holders $90,000,000. These receipts and payments are much greater than those of all 



6i6 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



the companies in all other parts of the world united. The regular life-insurance companies 
(excluding assessment societies) have already paid to their policy-holders and their families 
the colossal sum of $1,500,000,000, and yet hold in their coffers securities amounting to a sum 
of $25,000,000 in excess of the combined banking capital of the United States. 

Chauncey M. Depew recently said that the preeminence of the United States among the 
nations of the world "is most conspicuous in the number, solvency and assets of the institu- 
tions where the mites of the poor constitute a fund for a rainy day and for the inevitable 
accidents of life, and of those where the accumulations of the prosperous and rich provide 
against the losses of fortune and death." The silver-tongued orator also added: "If a 
man knows, while earning enough for the support of his family, that by some process 
that family will be sustained and supported when he is dead, by a policy given by a good 
company upon a moderate premium, for a sum beyond anything which he could hope to 
accumulate under ordinary conditions, that man will cease to worry, and will live forever." 
Among the enormous corporations raised up to accomplish this end, and also to provide 
inalienable life-annuities, invested by the wisest financiers, and safeguarded by govern- 
mental supervision, the three great metropolitan companies, the New- York Life, the 
Equitable, and the Mutual Life, stand preeminent, with unblemished records and almost 
unlimited resources, held and disbursed in accordance with public law and individual con- 



tracts, for the pro- 

The Mutual 

having the largest 

being the greatest 




NEW YORK : MUTUAL LIFE-|^4SURANCE CO, 
NEW-YORK GENERAL AGENCY. 



tection and enrichment of their members. 

Life-insurance Co., of New York, enjoys the noble distinction of 
assets of any life-insurance company in the world, and also of 
I ncial institution, even much larger than the Bank of England. 
Its assets amount to about $150,000,000, the yearly in- 
come being $35,000,000, and the yearly disbursements 
exceeding $24,000,000. There are 206,055 policies in 
force, insuring $638,226,865. The new business secured 
in a single year has exceeded $160,000,000. This corpor- 
ation was among the first to do business as a modern life- 
insurance company, having been founded in 1843 ; and its 
growth has been steady, secure and beneficent ever since. 
The executive offices of the Mutual Life occupy one of the 
most admirable and exquisite structures in the world, at 
Nassau, Cedar and Liberty Streets, on the site of the old 
Post Office. The New-York general agency uses another 
immense structure, also the property of the company, at Broadway and Liberty Street. 
The Mutual Life is more than continental in its workings, and has its well-appointed agencies 
in all parts of the United States, Canada, Mexico, Great Britain and Continental Europe; 
and issues all the approved forms of life, endow- 
ment, annuity, and other policies. The Mutual Life 
for about 40 years was under the presidency of the 
late Frederick S. Winston, and at his death, Richaid 
A. McCurdy, the former Vice-President, was chosen 
President, and under his administration the Mutual 
Life has become greater than ever before. This is 
one of those gigantic institutions about which it is im- 
possible even to suggest its enormous operations, or to 
indicate its incalculable value to the whole people. 
Although it is officered by those selected by its 
policy-holders, it is nevertheless a semi-public institu- 
tion, with its field of operations all over the civilized 
world. It is an enormous trusteeship for the welfare of the individuals and their families, 
who in time of strength and prosperity provide for old age and adversity. 




MUTUAL LIFE USURANCE CO 
EXECUTIVE OFFICES. 



THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 617 

The Equitable Life Assurance Society of the United States stands in the front of all life- 
insurance corporations of the world. It is the largest life-insurance company in the world 
in the amount of its annual business and of its insurance in force, the latter being over 
$700,000,000, covering nearly 200,000 policies. Its gross assets exceed $115,000,000. 
The new business in 1890 was over $200,000,000, being larger than that of any other com- 
pany in the world. The Equitable also holds the largest surplus. The policies offered 
by the Equitable include a variety of forms, tontines, indemnity bonds, annuities and others. 
The society was organized in 1859. Henry B. Hyde is the President, and James W. Alex- 
ander is the Vice-President. It has paid to policy-holders the enormous sum of over 
$140,000,000, one half of which was to widows and orphans. The Equitable Society has 
done much to liberalize the policy contract, and to make insurance popular. By the inven- 
tion of the tontine system, it has revolutionized the practice of life-insurance. Under this 
system, those policy-holders who survive a certain period receive large cash returns, while 
the families of those who die early receive the insurance money as soon as satisfactory 
evidence of the death of the policy-holder is submitted. Many of these tontine policies 

maturing in 1 89 1 show, in addition to the 20 
years of protection furnished, a return of all 
premiums paid, with a fair rate of interest 
added. The Equitable Building, erected by 
the Society in 1872, has been recently enlarged 
and contains the main offices. It is one of the 
largest and most substantial commercial build- 
ings in the world. It fills the block on Broad- 
way, from Cedar Street to Pine Street, con- 
taining rented offices, occupied by over 1,500 
people. The Broadway entrance leads into the 
finest rotunda in America, on whose pavements 
stand marble columns with onyx capitals, up- 
holding an entablature of red granite and an arched roof of stained glass. The view 
from the roof of the building includes the entire city and suburbs. The ofifices of the 
Society (second floor) are perhaps the costliest and grandest of any used for business pur- 
poses in this or any other country. This was the first office-building to introduce passenger- 
elevators, and to the managers of the Equitable the owners of buildings owe a debt,of grati- 
tude for adopting a practical means of making the upper floors desirable at high rentals. 
The Equitable Building is one of the attractions of New-York City to which all strangers 
are taken, to admire its architectural grandeur and the magnificent view from the roof. 

The New- York Life-insurance Company, of which William 
H. Beers is President, ranks on an equal footing with the fore- 
most life-insurance corporations of the world, and is one of the 
dozen greatest financial and fiduciary institutions. It has over 
173,000 policies in force, insuring over $569,000,000. The 
company began business in 1845 5 ^"^^ since that date has paid 
over $56,000,000 in death claims, and over $86,000,000 in en- 
dowments, annuities, dividends and surrender values. The in- 
terest and rents received have exceeded the entire losses by 
death, a result which shows an adequate accumulation of assets, 
handled with masterly financial skill and a careful selection of 
risks. The New-York Life is purely mutual in its operations, 
and the profits are divided among its policy-holders exclusively. 
The assets amount to over $115,000,000. This vigorous and 
progressive company originated non-forfeiture and mortuary divi- 
dend policies, and issues a greater variety of contracts than any 




NEW YORK : EQUITABLE LIFE-ASSURANCE SOCIETY. 




NEW YORK : N 
INSURANCE CO., 



LW-YORK LIFE- 
HOME OFFICE. 



6i8 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNU'ED STATES. 




other company. It was for many years the only company to issue ])olicies without a sui- 
cide clause. Its endowment business is larger than that of any other company, and its an- 
nuity business is larger than that of all other American companies combined. It owns 
large fire-proof ofhce-buildings in New York, Kansas City, Omaha, 
Minneapolis and St. Paul, and several outside of the United 
States. 

The Fire-insurance interests of the United States have chal- 
lenged the closest attention and best efforts of several powerful for- 
eign corporations, preeminent among which is the Liverpool and Lon- 
don and Globe Insurance Company, said to be the largest fire-insurance 
company in the world. This institution was founded at Liverpool 
in 1836, as the Liverpool Insurance Company ; acknowledged its 
success at the British metropolis, by taking the title of the Liverpool 
and London Insurance Co., in 1848; and 16 years later augmented 
the title again, upon acquiring the business of the Globe Insurance 
Company. An agency was founded in the United States in 1851, 
and the same year the first board of directors was formed at New 
York. Since that time, the American business has advanced until 
its net fire premiums exceed !|4,ooo,ooo a year. In the Chicago and 
Boston fires of 1871 and 1872 the company lost i|4,670,ooo, and its 
abundant American resources were not merely maintained but Liverpool and london and 
largely supplemented by English funds, so that all losses were °^°be insurance co. 
promptly paid in full. These ample means in both hemispheres give greater security to 
the policy-holders of the Liverpool and London and Globe, whose United-States branch after 
paying over $48,000,000 in fire-losses now has a surplus of above $3,000,000. The Liver- 
pool and London and Cjlobe building in New York is one of the finest of those superb office 
edifices for which lower New York is famous, and although built some years ago, it stands 
in the front rank to-day. 

In fire-insurance one of the most notable corporations is the Con- 
tinental Insurance Company, of New York, which dates its origin from 
the year 1853, when it started with the largest capital (.$500,000) of 
any fire-insurance company at that time. The subscriptions to its 
stock poured in so freely that out of the overplus was organized the 
Home Insurance Company. The Continental has been a progressive 
company, and the late George T. Hope, the president for more than 
30 years, was one of the foremost underwriters of his day. The 
paid-up cash capital is $1,000,000, and the available cash assets reach 
nearly $6,000,000, including a net surplus of $1,600,000, in addition 
to the reserve fund for insurance in force of $2,500,000. The gross 
income is about $2,500,000 a year, which largely exceeds the expendi- 
tures for all purposes. The sums paid for fire-losses amount to 
over $25,000,000, $2,000,000 having been paid for losses by the 
Chicago fire of 1871, without impairing its capital, and $500,000 for 
the Boston fire of 1872. F. C. Moore is the President, and Cyrus 
Peck is the Vice-President and Secretary. 

A great sea-port like New York naturally has many companies for insuring vessels and 
their cargoes. The largest and strongest and most successful marine insurance company 
in the United States is the Atlantic Mutual Insurance Company of New York, which was 
incorporated in 1842, and now has assets of above $12,500,000, for the security of its 
policies. These amazing figures may be extended by the statement that the marine 
premiums amount to over $5,000,000 a year. The profits of the company revert to the 
insured, and are divided yearly upon the premiums terminated during the year, thereby 




NEW YORK : CONTINENTAL 
INSURANCE CO. 



THE Sl'ATR Of NEIV YORK\ 



6i( 




NEW YORK: ATLANTIC MUTUAL INSURANCE CO. 



reducing the cost of insurance, the company being, 
as the name indicates, for the mutual benefit of its 
policy-holders. These dividends are paid in in- 
terest-bearing certificates, known as "Scrip," 
which are in time redeemed by the company. Pro- 
vision is made for issuing policies making the 
losses payable in England. The Atlantic Mutual 
owns its office buildings, on Wall Street, at the 
corner of William Street. John D. Jones, its 
President, has been identified with the company 
since it began business. 

Railroads. — The New-York Central & Hud- 
son-River Railroad is one of the grandest routes 
of the world, and over its magnificent quadruple 
tracks passes a large proportion of the freight and passenger traffic between New York and 
New England and the West. Its Grand Central Station in New York is an enormous 
structure of brick, iron and glass, located in the very center of the city. Here come and 
depart the thronging trains of the routes from New England, as well as the vast passenger 
traffic of the Vanderbilt lines. It is the only railway passenger station on Manhattan Island. 
The New-York Central trains traverse the garden 
of the Empire State, rich in agricultural and in- 
dustrial resources, and teeming with busy cities 
and attractive villages. For 140 
miles they follow the beautiful Hud- 
son River, through one of the finest 
scenic regions in the world, and 
beyond Albany they ascend the his- 
toric Mohawk Valley, and pass on 
to and through the interesting cities 
of Schenectady, Utica, Rome, Syra- 
cuse, and Rochester, to Buffalo and 
Niagara Falls, reaching the latter 
either via Lockport or Buffalo. The 
famous "New- York & Chicago Limited," "North Shore Limited," and "Southwestern 
Limited" trains, running over this route, are probably the most magnificent and complete 
railway trains in the world, and give the quicke'st and most comfortable transit between New 
York and Boston, on the one side, and the great cities of the interior and Western States 
on the other. The New-York Central is the only railroad in the world with four tracks, 
forming an unrivalled steel highway between the East and the West. The Michigan Cen- 
tral line connects with the New- York Central at Buffalo, and the great through trains 
pass from one system to the other, and across into Canada, with a magnificent prospect 
of Niagara Falls from Falls-View station. Flying across the wide Ontario plains, and 
Southern Michigan, the trains enter Chicago. 

The New York, Lake-Erie & Western Railroad runs from the metropolis northwest 
through the southern tier of counties to Buffalo, 422 miles, connecting for the West. The 
Delaware & Hudson Canal Company's Railroads run northeast from Binghamton to Albany, 
Lake Champlain and Montreal. The Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg Railroad follows 
the Lake-Ontario shores. There are many north and south and other lines. 

A favorite route from New-York City to the eastward, to Boston, to Providence, and 
to the White Mountains and other pleasure-resorts and cities of Massachusetts, New Hamp- 
shire and Maine, is by the Providence & Stonington Steamboat Company. These magnifi- 
cent vessels are among the staunchest, swiftest and most luxurious steamers in the world, 




jUJJiUJIjJj -"j, 



NEW YORK : GRAND CENTRAL STATION. 



620 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LONG-ISLAND SOUND : PROVIDENCE AND STONINGTON LINE. 



and are of enormous size. The fleet includes the first-class steamships, Massaclntsctts, Coii- 
nccticut, Rhode Island, Stonhigton and Narragansett, forming two lines eastward from New 
York, each with a boat leaving at late afternoon, the Stonington Line making connections 
with the Shore Line Railway, for Boston at Stoning- 
ton, very early in the morning, while the Providence 
Line boat runs close to Block Island, and, 
avoiding the rough sea at Point Judith, 
ascends the whole length of Narra- 
gansett Bay to Providence, where it con- 
nects with the railways for Boston and 
all other New-England points. As these 
steamships pass majestically around New 
York and Brooklyn, by the deep and 
crowded rivers, they reveal a wonderful panorama of civic and maritime power and dignity ; 
and they sweep through Hell Gate, and out into Long-Island Sound, as evening comes 
down, and the lighthouses begin to twinkle. The "Providence Line" sails from Pier 29 
(old number), and the "Stonington Line" from Pier 36, both in the North River. 

In March, 1852, Henry Wells, William G. Fargo, and others organized in New-York 
City, under the laws of the State of New York, Wells, Fargo & Company, to transact an 
Express, Exchange and Banking business, particularly on the Pacific Coast, but also be- 
tween San Francisco, New York and Europe. The company sprang into existence, 
Minerva-like, fully equipped for service ; and at once engaged upon its long mission of trust 
and responsibility, ever since maintaining itself successfully amidst some of the most trying 
vicissitudes ; extending its lines farther and farther, over the mountains, across deserts and 
plains, and along inland water-ways, until it spans the broad continent, extending through- 
out forty-one States and Territories within the United States and Mexico, as well as reach- 
ing Great Britain and Continental Europe. In 1888 it acquired the Erie System, centering 
in New York, and extensive auxiliary lines, thus securing its own direct through lines to New 
York, Boston, and all other large commercial centres, and where it is now prominently 
represented. The company operates 40,000 miles of lines by railway, stage and steamer; 
has 2,720 agencies and about 6,000 employes ; transacts millions of business annually in its 
Express Department ; and handles, in its Banking Department, its accumulated capital and 
deposits, amoimting to $10,000,000. The main office of the company in New- York City 
is at 63 Broadway, but its headquarters proper, or General Accounting Office, is in San 
Francisco. It was Wells, Fargo & Company that originated, in i860, the famous Pony 
Express, for the most rapid conveyance then possible of important mail correspondence, 
across the continent. The success of the undertaking demonstrated its practicability, and 
suggested other possibilities of accommodating the needs of the age. The narrow trail of 
the pony may be said to have marked out the course soon afterwards followed by the capa- 
cious mail and passenger coaches, along with the telegraph-wires ; and 
in no less quick succession, that of the railroad-track and swift-speeding 
locomotive, which now unite in one bond of fraternal intercourse the 
widely separated extremities of the continent. The 
Express Building, in San Francisco, is one of the 
marked architectural features of that city, its massive 
exterior covering two thirds of a block. The interior 
arrangements are models for comfort and convenience ; 
and it is probably the largest and best appointed ex- 
press office of the world. 

Hotels. • — The noble white-marble pile of the 

Fifth-Avenue Hotel, in rich Corinthian architecture, 

NEW YORK: POST-OFFICE. covcriuglS city-lots, and accommodating 1,000 guests, 




THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



621 




NEW YORK : FIFTH-AVENUE 



^ND MADISON SQUARE. 



marks a place in the heart of New- 
York City, and an era in the his- 
tory of the Nation's wealth and 
advancement. It is located in the 
centre of the city, upon the charm- 
ing Madison Square, and at the 
intersection of Broadway and Fifth 
Avenue, and convenient to the 
most important points of interest 
in the metropolis. Its patrons 
include the most prominent men and women in America : The Presidents ; hundreds of 
Government officials, Senators, Congressmen, Judges, Army and Navy officers, divines, 
physicians, authors, and in fact all who have attained prominence in public and private life, 
both at home and abroad, and the most distinguished Europeans of rank and title who have 
visited this country. It has been the centre of the great public occasions which the city 
has witnessed for thirty years. Years have come and gone, new hotels have multiplied, 
with innovations introduced to affect and influence patronage, but the Fifth-Avenue is as 
new and fresh as the most recent hotels, and with more liberal accommodations than any of 
them, and its well-earned reputation, as the leading hotel of the world, is assured. 

New York is the metropolitan city of the greatest nation of travellers that the world has 
ever seen, and it is natural that it should be richly endowed 
with public accommodations for its myriads of transient 
guests. Prominent among these homes of the voyagers is 
the magnificent Gilsey House, whose white marble walls rise 
above the surrounding buildings, at the corner of Broadway 
and 29th Streets, close to the up-town theatres, and within 
a square of the elevated railroad, by whose aid people can 
quickly and easily reach any part of, the city. This house 
dates from about the year 1876, but has been added to at 
various times, and has always been a favorite resort for the 
travelling public. It is kept on the European plan. Not 
only is it a thoroughly appointed modern hotel in every sense 
of the word,but it is handsomely furnished, and kept up inmost 
creditable style. Its restaurant is famous all over the world 
as unsurpassed in this country. The senior proprietor is James H. Breslin, one of the uni- 
versally known hotel-kings of America, who occupies also the responsible position of Presi- 
dent of the Hotel-Men's Benefit Association. He is also the senior landlord of the wonder- 
ful Auditorium Hotel at Chicago. 

In some respects the Niagara Hotel, at Buffalo, stands without a rival. Planned, built 
and owned by George H. Lewis (of the well-known coal-mining firm of Bell, Lewis & Yates), 
a gentleman of great wealth and wide travel, it has many of the delightful attributes of a 
refined and beautiful home, unusual in the public houses of our Republic. The main hall, 




or reception-room, is fur- 




BUFFALO; NIAGARA HOTEL, 



nished and decorated in exquisite taste, with easy chairs. Ori- 
ental rugs and works of art, with the office 
alcoved in one side, and on another a great 
tropical conservatory of palms and cacti, with 
fountains, birds and music. The beautiful 
parlors, the comfortable guest-chambers, and 
all other parts of the house are in the same 
key of quiet luxury, and are provided with all 
devices for sanitation, abundant water and 
scientific ventilation, and automatic fire-alarms. 



)22 



AVA'C'S HA.VDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




JACKSON SANATORIUM 



The Niagara stands in a situation of unusual beauty, on the crest of Prospect Hill, close to 
the umbrageous parks which border Niagara Street, and within a few steps of the street- 
cars. From the windows, and from the adjacent park, in front of Fort Porter, the view in- 
cludes the soft blue Chautauqua hills, the rural Canadian shores, the shining plain of Lake 
Erie, and the resistless current of the Niagara River. In summer, the house is cool and airy ; 
in winter, its beautiful palm-gardens preserve the temperature of the Bahamas. Besides being 
the home of many well-to-do families, the Niagara is a favorite stopping place for the best 
class of travellers, for it affords them the most admirable opportunities for quiet rest, and 
is easily reached from the centre of the city. The manager is Charles A. Dunn. 

In the beautiful and salubrious hill-country of Western New York, and amid the Tyrolese 
scenery of Dansville, stands one of the notable institutions of America, the Jackson Sana- 
torium, founded in 1858 
by Dr. James C. Jackson, 
for the scientific care of 
chronic invalids, and for a 
place where overworked 
and nervous men and 
women could find rest 
and recuperation. The 
high Dansville region is 
entirely free from malaria, 
and has an exceptionally dry and pure air, perfumed from vast evergreen forests, with cool 
summer-nights, and singularly mild and almost snowless winters. This favorable climate 
has given the adjacent Genesee Valley its fame as a rich fruit and grain country. The 
Sanatorium is supplied, from lofty rocky heights, with the purest of water, of great efficacy 
in curing many diseases. The regularity, quietude and comfort of the life here, re-enforced 
in some cases by thermo-electric and electric, Turkish and Russian baths, massage and in- 
unction, and other restorative agencies, have brought back health to many an invalid, and 
far prolonged the lives of many incurables. From the handsomely illustrated pamphlets 
issued by the manager, J. Arthur Jackson, M. D., it is learned that the Sanatorium includes 
a magnificent main building of brick and iron, erected in 1883, and absolutely fire-proof, with 
elevators and electric bells, steam heat and detached sewage system, and broad prom- 
enade piazzas. There are twelve pleasant cottages clustered about it, in a picturesque liill- 
side park of forty acres, 1,200 feet above the sea. The managing physicians are James H. 
Jackson, M. D., Kate J. Jackson, M. D., and Walter E. Gregory, M. D. J. Arthur Jack- 
son is manager. 

The Theatres of New York are numbered by hundreds, from the comfortable play- 
houses of the smaller cities up to the great opera-houses of New-York City, and its mag- 
nificent Madison-Square Garden, one of the wonders of the world. Among these places 
of amusement there are two in New-York City that hold a high place in the esteem of all 
people, the "Madison Square" and "Palmer's;" both 
under the single management of A. M. Palmer, whose 
career has been distinguished for ability, purpose, refine- 
ment and success. These two theatres as well as the Union- 
Square during Mr. Palmer's management, from 1872 to 
1882, have been powerful agencies for the development 
of a wholesome influence of the stage and on those con- 
nected with stage life, and Mr. Palmer's record will always 
be referred to for its unswerving devotion to that only 
which is pure and elevating ; the result being that his audi- 
ences represent the culture and refinement of these times. 
Then, too, both these theatres are notable for their new york ; palmer's theatre. 




THE, STATE OF NEW YORK\ 



623 




NEW York: madison -square theatre. 



Construction. The Madison-Square, when rebuilt by Steele 
Mackaye, was regarded as the ideal theatre of its time ; 
having a moving double stage, to allow for the arranging 
of the scenery for one act while another is going on ; its 
curtain is a work of art, in velvet, with very heavy hand 
embroidery ; its orchestra pla^ys just over the proscenium 
arch ; all the workshops being outside the main structure ; 
and here were first introduced soft tones and harmonious 
blendings in the finish and decorations. "Palmer's" was 
built by Lester Wallack, the famous light comedian and 
manager, one of the Wallack family who dominated the 
New-York stage for 40 years. He spent a great fortune 
to erect this theatre, which is notable for its elegance, 
commodiousness, and solidity. Both theatres are practi- 
cally fire-proof, and have many places of exit. Mr. Palmar 
acquired the Madison Square in 1884, and Palmer's in 
1888. In 1880 he originated the Actors' Fund, ever since 
being its president. It has distributed $150,000 in charities. Among the many American 
plays he has placed before the public two are memorable for their remarkable successes : 
Bronson Howard's "The Banker's Daughter," and Bartley Campbell's "My Partner." 

Lumber and Coal are among the commodities most largely handled in New York, 
and two of their chief ports, Tonawanda and Rondout, lie at opposite ends of the State. 

Tonawanda, situated midway between Buffalo and Niagara Falls, ranks second only to 
Chicago as the greatest lumber centre in the world. Here since 1870 havegroMTi up a score 
or more of firms whose huge piles of lumber cover many hundreds of acres, and whose 
many miles of lumber docks make a sight seen only at a few places on this continent. It 
is no wonder that Tonawanda has thus developed, for it is not only favorably situated for 
receipts and shipments by lake, canal and rail ; but here was found a vast acreage of low, 
flat land, just suited to the most economical handling and storage of immense quantities. 
Here about 800,000,000 feet are received in a year. Over 150,000,000 shingles are either 
made or received here. In 1890 over 1,400 vessels entered the port of Tonawanda, and all 
the year round can be seen large fleets of many-sized and many-shaped vessels. 

Of the score of Tonawanda firms engaged in the lumber industry there are several that 

. , . rank among the great- 

• •- ._ ■■'...•,, ^ _-'■'-■ - - ■' ' — est lumber concerns of 

the United States. For 
example, A. M. Dodge 
& Co. , whose great yards 
at North Tonawanda 
are the outlets for the 
products of their sev- 
eral lumber manufacturing establishments, where their yearly output is about 150,000,000 
feet, chiefly of white pine. The capital employed by this firm alone amounts to several 
million dollars, and its shipments of lumber are made all over the world. 

The plant erected at Rondout, by the Dodge 
Coal Storage Company, of Philadelphia, is the 
most wonderful coal-handling mechanism in 
America for trimming and re-loading enormous 
quantities of coal, by means of endless chains 
travelling over trussed shear-frames. This in- 
genious coal -handling machinery results in vast 
economies of money and labor. rondout ; dodge coal storage co. 's system. 




:?^nii 



tonawanda : a. M. dodge 4 CO. 




624 



A'lXG'S HAKWBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




fat! 



^S'^ 



vLnm^, t^ 



The Newspapers of New York, and especially the great metropolitan dailies, are 
among the most powerful agencies in forming and directing American public opinion. 
Many of the brightest writers in the country are kept busy the year round in preparing the 
articles for these unrivalled newspapers, the libraries of the people. 

The New- York World is unanimously admitted to enjoy the 
distinction of "America's foremost newspaper." From the time of 
its purchase by its present proprietor, Joseph Pulitzer, it has en- 
tirely outstripped all journalistic history in its unheard-of accom- 
plishments, phenomenal growth, and startling innovations. From 
a circulation of 33,521 copies a day in 1883, The World has 
advanced by gigantic strides to 316,636 a day in 1890. Its 
advertising has sustained an equal ratio of increase, the records 
showing 7,241 advertisements per month in 1883, and 64,223 per 
month during 1890. The World was founded in i860, as a re- 
ligious daily, with large means. It did not succeed; and in 1862 
was bought by S. L. M. Barlow, August Belmont, and others, and 
made the leading Democratic journal of America, under the editor- 
ship of Manton Marble, wh'o, in 1869, came into possession of the 
entire property. In 1876, it passed into other hands, and steadily 
ran down until Mr. Pulitzer came from St. Louis and bought it, 
introducing new men, measures and methods, new purposes, policy 
and principles. The Pulitzer Building, the new home of The 
World, was erected in 1889-90, from designs by George S. Post, 
the architect of the Produce Exchange, and is a magnificent busi- 
ness structure, embodying the very latest and best ideas in con- 
structive art. It is the tallest office-building in the world, and the 
highest structure in New York (309 feet from sidewalk to lantern ; 
375I feet from foundation to the top of the flagstaff). The floors and dome are carried by 
a mighty skeleton of iron and steel columns and beams, to which the walls are but as clothing. 
This colossal and uninflammable 26-story structure lifts its impressive dome high above even 
the mighty buildings which stand around it, about the City-Hall Park ; and contains the 
most perfect and best-equipped newspaper offices in the world. In the carrying to such a 
wonderful success his gigantic undertaking, Mr. Pulitzer has shown that it is possible for 

one man to be both a great editor and a great business man. 
The New-York Times, one of the most commendable 
newspapers of the world, was founded in 1 851, by George 
Jones, its present proprietor, who is the oldest and one of the 
most famous of New- York newspaper owners, and Henry 
J. Raymond^ formerly Horace Greeley's assistant on the 
Tribune, and one of the most brilliant men America ever 
produced. The Times started as a one-cent four-page 
paper, but the price was doubled the next year, and the 
future of the enterprise became assured. One of the grand- 
est of journalistic achievements was the victorious attack 
made by the Times on the Tweed ring, the plunderers of 
New York, all of whose members were driven into prison 
or exile as a result. Formerly a strong Republican paper, 
of late years the Times has been independent in politics, 
supporting civil-service reform and tariff reduction, fight- 
ing trusts, and generally opposing all the seemingly un- 
worthy actions of the Republican and Democratic adminis- 
' THE TIMES. '■ trations. Its reports are accurate, concise, and readable, 



NEW YORK : 
THE WORLD " BUILDING. 




i4*^W»m^a.! 




THE STATE OF iXElV YORK. 625 

and ample room is given to literature and religious news, art and science, the army and 
navy, agriculture and market reports, and commercial and industrial progress. The thor- 
ough appointments of the counting, editorial, composition, and press-rooms put The Times 
establishment on an equal footing with the best in the world. The Times occupies a mag- 
nificent 13-story building of Maine granite and Hoosier Indiana limestone, between Spruce 
and Nassau streets and Park Row, in the unique newspaper district of New York. The 
Times building is a most graceful office-edifice, and its simple elegance and admirable con- 
struction throughout make it one of the most notable architectural specimens of the city. 

The Evenifig Post is very nearly as old as the century, the 
first number having been issued on the i6th of November, 1801. 
It was established by Alexander Hamilton and certain of his po- 
litical friends, as an organ of the Federalists in New- York City. 
William Coleman, a native of Boston, and at one time the law 
partner of Aaron Burr, was selected as editor-in-chief, and held 
that position until his death, 20 years later. William CuUen 
Bryant became one of the editors of the paper in 1826, but did 
not assume full control of it until 1828. In the following year he 
took William Leggett into partnership, and left the latter in edi- 
torial charge when he went to Europe in the summer of 1834. 
Ke returned to America in the early part of 1836, and soon after- 
ward Mr. Leggett retired, on account of the temporary unpopular- 
ity in which he had involved himself and the paper by his vigorous 
denunciations of the subjefction of the Abolitionists to mob law, 
and his sturdy defense of the right of free speech in regard to 
slavery and other topics. During the administration of President 
Jackson The Evening Post was one of the strongest opponents of 
the United- States Bank, and also won wide recognition as an able and consistent advocate 
of free trade. From that day to this it has been constant in its active resistance to high 
protection and in its exposure of the fallacies of that theory. 

In the early days of Mr. Bryant's editorship the policy of the paper was Democratic, but 
it became Republican when the slavery extension question arose. From 1849 until 186 1 
John Bigelow was Mr. Bryant's partner, and acted as managing editor. Upon Mr. Bigelow's 
retirement his interest reverted to Isaac Henderson, who was the active business manager 
of the paper for many years, but had no authoritative voice with respect to its policy, which 
Mr. Bryant was careful to retain in his personal control. When Mr. Bryant died, his son- 
in-law, Parke Godwin, who had been connected with the paper in different capacities for 
many years, succeeded to the editorship, and retained it until the 
present proprietors came into possession, in 188 1. Since that time 
The Evening Post has been conducted in a spirit of complete inde- 
pendence, under the editorship of E. L. Godkin and Horace White. 

The Independent stands by general consent at the head of the 
religious papers of the United States, if not of the world. It was 
started in 1848 as an organ of the younger liberal Congregational- 
ists, and backed by five young business men, one of whom, Henry C. 
Bowen, soon became its sole owner, and has continued such ti 
the present time. Its first editors were Leonard Bacon, R. S. 
Storrs, Joseph P. Thompson, and Joshua Leavitt. Seven years later 
Henry Ward Beecher became editor, assisted by Theodore Tilton, 
who succeeded him after a few years. During Mr. Beecher's control 
the paper enlarged its scope, and was made an undenominational 
journal. In 1871 Mr. Tilton retired, and Mr. Bowen assumed edi- ^^^ ^^^^ . 

torial ' charge. Among his assistants have been Dr. Edward " the independent. 



NEW YORK : 
' THE EVENING POST. " 




626 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEW YORK THE LEDGER 



Eggleston, Dr. William Hayes Ward, Justin McCarthy, Dr. Washington Gladden, Dr. 
Henry K. Carroll, Prof. Borden C. Bowne, and Prof. C. H. Toy. It is the largest religious 
paper published, and combines the character of a literary magazine with that of a religious 
journal ; not only discussing all current religious questions, but providing an extensive com- 
bination of literary attractions in poems, stories, and essays, by the most distinguished 
writers, and also giving financial, commercial, and general news and discussions. It appeals 
especially to thinking people, and it pays more for contributions from outside writers than 
any other three or four religious papers; and of necessity carries exceptional influence. 

The Neiv- York ledger, one of the most successful of American 
periodicals, was founded in 1856 by Robert Bonner, the father of 
Its present editors and proprietors. Its success was due entirely 
to the originality and enterprise of its founders. Nothing like it 
was known before, and the methods pursued in its production and 
distribution were equally new. The best writers were engaged, 
it unexampled rates of compensation, and the paper was adver- 
tised on a scale altogether without precedent. A new industry 
was created to distribute it to the public ; and the system of 
news-agencies, then in its infancy, sprang up at once into its full 
growth. The success then initiated has been maintained. There 
IS the same splendid liberality in procuring the best contributions 
from the most popular writers, and placing them in an attractive 
form before the public. The Ledger continues to be one of the 
best-advertised papers in the United States. Among its contribu- 
tors are Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett, Robert Louis Stevenson, Amelia E. Barr, John (1. 
Whittier, James Russell Lowell, Judge Albion Tourgee, Anna Katherine Green, James 
Parton, Herbert Ward, Harold Frederic, and Robert Grant. The present proprietors have 
begun to issue, in book-form, the popular works pub- 
lished as serials in The Ledger, and these form an im- 
portant department in the publishing business of the 
firm. The house of Robert Bonner's Sons succeeded 
to the business of Robert Bonner, in 1887, and are the 
editors and proprietors of the Ledger and the Ledger 
Library. 

The New- York Tribune, founded in 1841 by 
Horace Greeley, and conducted by Whitelaw Reid, 
has been for many years the beacon-star of the Repub- 
lican party in the Nation, and the ideal journal of cur- 
rent reform. The Sun, Charles A. Dana's great paper, has a colossal circulation among the 

people of the whole country, and is the favorite paper 
for journalists. The New-York Herald, founded in 
1835 ^y James Gordon Bennett, is especially rich in 
foreign news, and is regarded as a typical American 
newspaper, in enterprise and ability. The German- 
Americans are represented by the Staats-Zeititng ; 
and other races by other papers. The magazines of 
New York, Harper's, The Century, Seribner's and 
others, enjoy enormous circulations, the world over. 
The Manufactures of New York are of inde- 
scribable variety and vast extent, extending from the 
diamond-cutting of Tiffany and the fine book-making 
of the famous printing-houses, to the most gigantic 

NEW YORK ; WALL STREET, THE SUB-TREASURY, , '^ ° ' tot?-' 

AND TRINITY CHURCH. achicvemcnts m heavy metal-work. 




NEW YORK : THE ASTOR LIBRARY. 




THE STATE OF NEW YORK 




ELEVmiR-TO- WHIRLPOOL 



NIAGARA FALLS AND THE NIAGARA RIVER. 



628 A'/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

In the Washington Block in Buffalo is situated a typographical establishment, of unique 
interest to the readers of this book ; for there it was made. The larger part of this spacious 
building, with 166 feet of frontage on each of two principal streets, is occupied by the 
Complete Art-Printing Works of The Matthews-Northrup Company, in connection with the 
Buffalo Express, the property of the president and the treasurer of the company. 

There are a few larger printing establishments than this, though it occupies over two 
acres of floor-space, and has a weekly pay-roll of over $5,000 ; but competent judges have 
said that for completeness in all that pertains to the typographic art it stands without a 
rival. Here the search for perfection has resulted in the addition of separate departments, 
calculated to turn out the best of work in all that pertains to printed matter, until now the 
establishment can carry through the production of even the most elaborately illustrated 
work without calling in the assistance of a sub-contractor. Perhaps the best example of 
this completeness is furnished by this very volume. At least twelve separate contracts might 
have been made for this book, and probably would have been, if the publishers had not 
believed that each of these contracts could best be filled by this one house. It may inter- 
est its reader to see enumerated the various branches of work used to produce it, specify- 
ing only those commonly carried on alone. 1st, Designing, or putting into art-form the 
special ornamental features like the cover, title-pages and illuminations ; second, illus- 
trating, or the obtaining of the original material from which the 2, 500 illustrations were 
made ; third, engraving upon wood for ,,:^^^sft "^^^ production of some of these 
illustrations; fourth, draw mg with _^^!^^^^^^^j^ P^'"* ^-'^d ink, and engraving in 
/■ac-siinik for other illustia «aiS*^^» MnffllT^^^& s ^lons ; fifth, engraving upon 

wax, for the production ^,,^^^mW'^A?^''*^^|*i^^ °^ ^^^ maps ; sixth, en- 

graving by the direct pho- -.■'d^M^^ffllllli^^ tographic process ("pho- 

totype" or "half-tone") l]||j|^^^H|ifj|^MJ®jff for the lining pages; 

seventh, ^YP^ ■ netting ; 'j||^^^^^M^^^^^|^L^i^^Bij"l eighth, electrotyping ; 
ninth, printing of the | liiI|||jfJ|^BMffiil body of the work ; tenth, 

color printing of maps •sr-,p^^^^^^^^™!^|!iCritJ5^ and illuminations; 

eleventh, making the ^ —*-=-—== _-=_i:_r^ -^=-^^=- c^ses ; twelfth, binding. 

Of course, so varied a ^"^^*^° • ^"^ matthews-northrup co. .^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ 

..,. J , ART-PRINTING HOUSE. "THE BUFFALO EXPRESS." i , , r c . i 

utilized on anyone work, and but few of the custo- 

mers of this great establishment have ever had experience of so many of its advantages. 

In the map department is probably found the widest distribution of customers. Mexico, 
Australia and England round out a list which includes most of the large publishers, and 
probably half the railroads in this country. In the character of printers for railroads the 
public is most familiar with this house, for its imprint is found far and wide upon folders, 
guide-books and pamphlets ; but many commercial and manufacturing concerns have found 
that there was no better place to get a handsome catalogue, and general advertisers have 
taken editions of hundreds of thousands of pamphlets, because they found that the same care 
and skill and thought which made a large work great, would make a little work attractive. 

The founder of the business was the late J. N. Matthews, who, in 1878, bought The 
Express, then the skeleton of what had been an influential newspaper. Mr. Matthews 
was both a born journalist and a great printer. At one and the same time he started The 
Express on a career which has made it one of the best-known and most influential newspapers 
in New- York State, and in connection with younger men founded the printing-firm of Mat- 
thews, Northrup & Company. Until his death, in 188S, he was the active head of these two 
businesses, and they are still managed by the men whom he trained for the purpose. 

One of the best results of the intimate connection between an enterprising newspaper 
and a great printing and engraving house has been the Buffalo Illustrated Express 
(the Sunday edition of the daily Express). Commencing in quite a small way to illustrate 
current local events, this paper has grown to be a splendid example of what an illustrated 
newspaper should be, and fills a field of more than local extent, 




AMERICAN BOOK CO 



THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 

In 1890 the American Book Company, the greatest 
school-book publishing-house in the world, came into exist- 
ence, buying up the school-book lists of D. Appleton & Co., 
Ivison, Blakeman & Co., A. S. Barnes & Co., Van Antwerp, 
Bragg & Co., and Harper & Bros. The chief stockholders 
were formerly members of the four first-named firms, which 
have all retired from school-book publishing. The com- 
pany has establishments at New York, Cincinnati and Chi- 
cago, and its business is of world-wide extent and immense 
proportions. The American Book Company has 2,000 text- 
books on its lists, suitable for all grades and departments, 
from the country primary-school to the university, and used 
in every part of America, besides being exported to Mexico 
and South America, England and the Continent, Syria and India, China and Japan, Egypt, 
South Africa and the Congo Free State. The consolidation of interests has resulted in a 
marked lowering of prices, because the books can now be made and sold much more 
economically. It has resulted also in the making of better books than ever before, because 
while each have had separately some exceptionally strong specialties, now all these strong 
points can be united. Then, too, the combined experience of all the great school-book 
makers must result beneficially for the education of the whole of the coming generations. 
American text-books are in advance of all others, in general excellence, and the efforts of 
the American Book Company will place them in a position even more commanding. 

On that part of Pearl Street better known as Franklin Square — near the Brooklyn Bridge, 
and the New- York Post-Office and City Hall — is the Harper & Brothers' establishment, 
the largest and best-known publishing-house in the United States, if not in the world. 
Three immense buildings are fully occupied in the business. Within their walls 1,000 peo- 
ple are employed in the production of the Harper books and periodicals, and thousands of 
tons of finished printed matter of a high character go thence every year. In 181 2 James 
and John Harper left their father's farm in Newtown, L. I., and came to New York 
to be apprenticed as printers. After five years they started the office of J. & J. Harper, 
and began printing books. James was the best pressman in town, and John an excellent 
compositor. The first work that bore their imprint was Locke's Essay on the Himiaii Un- 
derstaiidi)ig, issued in 18 18. Joseph Wesley Harper and Fletcher Harper, their younger 
brothers, after learning the same trade, entered the firm, the one in 1823, and the other in 
1825. In this latter year they moved to Cliff Street, and the business soon became the 
largest in the city. In 1833 the firm adopted the style of Harper & Brothers — a name 
that has become indissolubly identified with the noblest and most creditable literature of this 
age. After the disastrous fire of 1853, designs for new buildings, thoroughly fire-proof, 
strong, well-lighted and ventilated, were at once drawn up, and the present iron edifice on 
Franklin Square is the result, buildings, although nearly 40 years old, that still command 
architectural attention. A court-yard separates the front 
from the rear building, and in the centre is a tower with a 
spiral stairway. There are no interior staircases ; and the 
elevator, furnaces and steam-engines are in the court-yard. 
The interior frame-work of both buildings is iron, sup- 
ported on heavy brick piers. Every operation entering 
into book-making, except the manufacture of paper and 
ink, is conducted on the premises — type-setting, electro- 
typing, designing, engraving, press- work, and binding, as well 
as the editorial work. The character of the 6,000 books 
of this house, and of their several periodicals, is well-known 
the world over. Harper^ s Magazine, established in 1850; ^^^ york : harper 




630 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Harper's Weekly, in 1857; Harper'' s Bazar, in 1867, a.x\A Ha}per''s YoJing People, in 1879, 
were deservedly successful from the beginning. The firm name remains the same to-day 
that it was 58 years ago. James, the eldest of the original four brothers, died in 1869, 
aged 74 years; Joseph Wesley, the third, died in 1 870, aged 69; John, the second, died in 
1875, aged 78 years; and Fletcher, the youngest, died in 1877, aged 71 years. The busi- 
ness is now carried on by six members of the second and third generations. Who can 
estimate the noble influence that the work of the Harpers has exerted, through three 
generations, an influence unequalled by even the foremost educational institution! 

The American Bank Note Company of New York is one of the most 
famous industries of the Nation. Its world-wide renown has been the result 
of a rare combination of the highest artistical and mechanical skill through- 
out a long experience, and its standing to-day is unequalled. The business 
was founded in 1795, incorporated in 1858, and enlarged and re-organized in 
1879. The early and wide-spread use of paper-money rendered it imperative 
to produce engraved work which could not be counterfeited. 
The best artists competed in making designs, skilful chemists 
devised inks and colors to be brilliant and ineradicable, or 
delible and sensitive, and inventors applied the principles of 
mechanics to intricate geometrical engraving. The consolida- 
tion of these interests under the American Bank Note Com- 
pany united the resources and reputation, the safe-guards and 
facilities of a century's experience, with abundant capital to test 
new inventions and acquire new processes. It has prepared 
securities to the value of millions and millions of dollars, and 
bank-notes innumerable, also postage stamps, bonds, stocks, 
diplomas, drafts, etc., not only for the Government and financial 
institutions of the United States, but also for^ Canada and the 
West Indies, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Salvador, Colombia, 
Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, the Argentine Republic, Uruguay, 
Brazil, Russia, Italy, Greece, Spain, England, Sweden and Switzerland. Besides its steel- 
plate engraving, the American Bank Note Company has executed for railroads and various 
corporations many of the most notable specimens of letter-press printing in black and in 
colors. The company built and owns, close by Trinity Church, its commodious fire-proof 
premises, covering ten city lots, the most elegant and complete establishment in its line in 
the world, where the entire work of engraving and printing is executed. 

A department of art in which New York holds a high rank is lithography, which has 
been studied and carried forward here with increasing skill for many decades. In 1848 
Napoleon Sarony founded an industry in this field, which afterwards won a high reputa- 
tion under the title of Sarony, Major & Knapp. The three 

heads of this firm one by one retired, and now the business 
is controlled by Joseph P. Knapp, a son of one of the 
founders. The business represents an investment of 
$600,000, including the spacious buildings on Park Place, 
New York, where 200 operatives are kept at work making 
chromos and lithographs of all kinds, show-bills, album- 
cards, chromo-plates for books, and an endless variety of 
similar articles. All the most modern processes and me- 
chanisms are employed, with results of surprising beauty, 
so that the chromo of to-day has ceased to be a by-word 
of reproach, and is one of the most efficient and attractive 
means of popularizing art. The Knapp lithographic es- 
tablishment is the largest in the country devoted solely to new york : joseph 




NEW YORK ; 
AMERICAN BANK NOTE CO. 





BUFFALO : COSACK 



THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 631 

lithography, and its patrons are chiefly enormous concerns in all parts of the Union, who 
find here the perfection of illustrative work of this character. 

An attractive and interesting feature of Buffalo is the great lithographic establishment 
of Cosack & Co. It employs upwards of 300 persons, and occupies its own large and 
handsome building on Lake- View Avenue, 100x300 feet. The company dates from 1864 ; 
and twelve years later its renown was so high that the comnussioners of the Centennial 
Exposition entrusted this firm with the lithographic reproduction of 
the most important exhibits of the Centennial Exposition, published and 
known as "Treasures of Art, Industry and Manufacture." 
Since that time, Cosack & Co. have made such notable ad- '® 

vances in their art, that when the projectors of 
the magnificent work on ancient Egypt, "Miz- 
raim," were ready to place their contracts for 
this mammoth work — without doubt the greatest 
enterprise ever attempted in the annals of pub- 
lishing — it was also entrusted to this firm. 
Americans and Europeans characterize the beauty 
of the plates as so far superior to the "Prisse d'Avennes," "Lepsius," "Brugsch Bey," etc., 
issued under the auspices of the German and French Governments, as to completely over- 
shadow them, clearly demonstrating Cosack & Co.'s standing among the color printers 
of the world. Their lithographic press-room is the largest and most complete in America, 
without the obstruction of a single shaft, post, belt or partition, the roof being held up by 
immense trusses, and the shafting and belting in a tunnel under the floors. In addition 
to the transaction of a regular lithographic business, and the production of publications and 
lithography for all commercial purposes, they also carry in stock the largest and most varied 
and complete assortment of advertizing specialties to be found in the world. Herman Cosack 
and H. T. Koerner are lithographers of commanding skill ; and the third partner, Charles 
E. Hayes, controls the business department and the company's branches at New York, 
Chicago, Philadelphia, Boston, Hartford, Cincinnati, St. Louis, Pittsburgh and Toronto. 

When it is considered how much use is made of type-setting for newspapers, periodi- 
cals, books, and commeixial work, it can be readily understood that printing ranks among 
the foremost of all American industries. For a long period there was no important im- 
provement made in the setting of type, until the Linotype machine was invented — a machine 
that is likely to revolutionize the art of printing. The Linotype machines are manufac- 
tured, sold and leased by the Mergenthaler Printing Company. Organized in 1886, with a 
capital of $1,000,000, it has large works in Brooklyn, employing 300 men. It is the sole 
licensee of the National Typographic Company, which 
has consolidated the interests of many persons who have 
been for years developing methods to take the place of 
type-setting. The Linotypes are already in use by the 
New- York Tribune, Louisville Courier- Jotirnal, Provi- 
dence Journal, and many other newspapers. They can 
set up 9,000 ems an hour, while a type-setter by hand will 
average only about 1,000 ems. The Linotype dispenses 
with the use of movable or ordinary type, and with com- 
posing and distributing it. By the operation of keys it 
discharges matrices and spaces, until the line is com- 
posed. It is then justified, and molten type-metal 
forced into a mold, making a bar, or linotype, of any 
required length. The linotype is then automatically 
ejected, and added to the preceding series of bars, and 

^, _ . ^ 1 , ,1 • • rr.1. I.- NEW YORK: MERGENTHALER PRINTING CO. 

the mdtnces returned to their magazmes. 1 he machme the linotype. 




632 



A^/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




TOMPKINSVILLE : LOUIS DEJONGE & CO. 



automatically assembles the line, justifies, casts and dis- 
tributes it. This wonderful typographical invention is 
fast making its way into printing-offices throughout 
America and England. 

Louis Dejonge & Co., whose main offices are in New- 
York City, are beyond all question the foremost house in 
America in their special industry, which consists of the 
importation and manufacture of fancy papers, leathers, 
bookbinders' cloth, box-makers' pictures, borders and 
ornaments, and tar and pasteboard, and the kindred sup- 
plies needed by bookbinders and box-makers. At their extensive works at Tompkinsville, 
on Staten Island, composed of several substantial buildings, their special products include 
fine lithographic coated papers for color work ; plated and glazed surface-coated papers in 
all colors for printers and paper-box makers ; plain and embossed leather papers ; and also 
lining papers for bookbinders. In these lines this is the foremost and the oldest house in 
this country. The business was established in 1847 ; and in 1858 the factory began opera- 
tions. Employment is given to 400 people ; the business reaching $2,000,000 a year. The 
business was carried on under the name of J. & L. Dejonge, succeeded in 1868 by the 
present fii-m ; Louis Dejonge still being at its head, and his associates being Charles F. 
Zentgraf and Louis Dejonge, Jr. 

At Ballston Spa are the paper-mill offices of the Hon Cicorge West, several times a 
member of Congress, and recognized as one 
of the most notable paper-makers in 
America. He came from England in 1848, 
after having served at the paper-trade about 
a dozen years, as he had been apprenticed 
in 1837. Since 1848 he has never been 
out of this industry. At first he settled as 
a journeyman in Massachusetts, where by 
industry and ability he obtained the appro- 
bation of his employers and associates, and 
by economy he managed to accumulate 
some little means. Later he came to New- 
York State, and in 1862 he bought the Empire Mills at Ballston Spa. Since then he has 
acquired and still owns eight paper mills — the Union, Island, Glen, Eagle, Pioneer, Excel- 
sior, Empire, and Hadley, their total capacity being 30 tons of paper a day, in addition to 
3,000,000 paper bags. The product is manilla paper, in all its grades, weights and 
sizes, and in many shades. He was the first to introduce into the United States a "Dandy 
Roll," for making special water-marked writing papers. His goods are sold throughout the 
Union. At Ballston Spa he has been active in public affairs, and is prominent in the finan- 
cial and fraternal institutions. Here, too, is West's Spring, which, sunk to a depth of 600 
feet, pours forth a stream resembling the Saratoga waters, but which Prof. Maurice Perkins 
declares is stronger than any of them, and a very valuable mineral spring. 

The universally popular interest in photographic art, which is so marked a feature of 
the present day, depends largely on apparatus and supplies devised or introduced by E. & 
H. T. Anthony & Co., 591 Broadway, New- York City, preeminent in all the world as 
manufacturers and sellers of all photographic materials. The famous house of E. & H. T. 
Anthony & Co. was founded in 1842, as a result of the efforts of Edward Anthony to fol- 
low out the discovery made by Daguerre. By the year 1850 E. Anthony had become the 
largest manufacturer of photographic materials in the world. Two years later Edward's 
brother, Henry T. Anthony, entered the firm. In 1 870 Col. Vincent M. Wilcox entered 
the company, of which he is now president. W. H. Badeau was a partner from 1865 to 




BALLSTON SPA : GEORGE WEST'S UNION MILL. 




NEW YORK 
E. 4 H. T. ANTHONY. 



THE STATE OF NEW YORK. (^t^t^ 

1875. E. and H. T. Anthony are both dead, but younger members 
of the family have taken their places. The Anthony establishment 
occupies all four floors of a building extending through from Broad- 
way to Mercer Street, New York, and has its chemical works in 
Jersey City, and three factories for the manufacture of cameras and 
apparatus at Brooklyn, New York and Hoboken. This is the fore- 
most house in America in its supply of photographic chemicals and 
apparatus, and in the importation of photographic supplies. They 
publish the well-known photographic journal, Anthony^ s Photographic 
Bulletin, edited by Profs. Charles F. Chandler of the School of 
Mines, Columbia College, and Arthur H. Elliott of the New-York 
College of Pharmacy, as well as the International Annual, and thirty- 
three books on various branches of photography. 

The world-renowned jewelry house of Tiffany & Co. was founded 
in 1837, by Charles L. Tiffany, its present head, mainly for the sale 
of Chinese fancy articles. In 1844 the importation and manufacture 
of jewelry was added, followed seven years later by the manufacture of silver-ware. The 
French Revolution of 1848 caused a great decline in the price of diamonds, and the firm 
then bought precious stones to the extent of its ability, and 
became, and for the subsequent 40 years has remained, the 
leading American precious-stone house, with most skilful dia- 
mond-cutters and lapidaries. Among other branches Tiffany 
& Co. manufacture plated ware, jewelry, leather goods, station- 
ery, ivory goods, clocks and cutlery, employing 1,000 persons. 
The whole product is sold at retail, and at fixed prices; dealers 
are not supplied. The designers and makers of exquisite Tiff- 
any jewelry and other articles are all Americans, educated 
and trained in this establishment. Tiffany & Co. became a 
corporation in 1868. Their main six-story establishment fronts 
on Union Square, New-York City. There is no concern in its 
line in Europe or America that approaches it ; it stands abso- 
lutely beyond comparison. It is a store-house of gems and fine 
art goods that represent the highest skill, the most exquisite 
taste, and the mai"velous ingenuity of all the world. It is one 
of the most noted sights of this country, and no one has ever seen New York who has not 
visited the Tiffany establishment. The first floor displays an exhibit of diamonds and 
precious stones that can be seen nowhere else on either continent, and a wonderful array 
of jewelry and silver and silver-plated ware ; the second floor, bronzes, marbles and clocks ; 
the third floor, pottery, china and glassware ; and the fourth, fifth and sixth floors are used 
for manufacturing. The silver-ware factory, on Prince Street, and the plated-ware factory, 
at Newark, are two of the most perfectly equipped and efficient manufacturing establish- 
ments in the country. Tiffany & Co. received 
the most illustrious honors at the great Paris 
Exposition, where they led the world in jewelry, 
in silver-ware and in silver-plated ware. 

The Ansonia Clock Company is one of the 
preeminent clock manufacturers of the world ; 
and by reason of its marvelous output in quanti- 
ty and quality of ingenious and elegant wares has 
enjoyed for many years the increasing esteem 
of the industry in which it is so conspicuous a 
NsoNiA CLOCK COMPANY. f^ctor. It dcrivcs its name from a bright little 





TJEr]ff||/ltjJL 


hz.~r- _ ^.y^ 



NEW YO^K TIFFAf Y 










ALBANY : POST-OFFICE. 



634 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Connecticut town named for Anson D. Phelps, with which it had affiliations originally ; 
but for years its great, handsome and well-equipped brick factories have been a promi- 
nent feature among the industries of Brooklyn. The clocks made and sold by the Ansonia 
Company include thousands of styles and patterns, from the little bee, 
and a great variety of chamber and kitchen clocks, up to the most 
elaborate and beautiful bronze and enamelled iron time- 
keepers, with cathedral gongs, the modern onyx clocks, 
others of French marble, and richly carved hall clocks, 
nearly nine feet high, in tall oak or mahogany cases. The 
company also makes a great variety of brass and bronze 
clock-sets, vases, candelabra, statuettes, tableaux, and other 
art objects. The Ansonia Clock Company's executive offi- 
ces are in New- York City, and its products are sold through- 
out the world. 

About 40 years ago was founded the Archer & Pancoast Manufacturing Company of 
New York, which stands at the head of all American manufacturers 
of fixtures for gas and electric lights ; separately for gas or electricity, 
or combined for both. Even their commonest and cheapest fixtures 
have some pretensions to style and combination ; while their higher 
grades are veritable specimens of noble works of fine art, many 
pieces being designed by the most famous architects and artists, and 
executed by artisans whose skill displays rare genius. Archer & 
Pancoast's success has come from the production of fixtures having 
artistic and appropriate design and finish, whatever the uses and what- 
ever the cost. Not only are their fixtures to be found in 
modest homes, but also in palatial residences like Vandcrbilt's 
■ and Marquand's of New York, and Potter Palmer's of Chi- 
cago, and also in great public edifices like the Madison-Square 
Garden, Manhattan Athletic Club, Equitable Life, and 
United-States Trust. Their national character is seen in the 
fact that out on the Pacific coast their work appears in the 
Palace Hotel ; in Indianapolis in the wonderful Indiana State 
Capitol, and in Hartford in the exquisite Connecticut State 
Capitol. The Archer & Pancoast Company, incorporated in 
1868, has a paid-up capital of $600,000, and employs 500 
workmen. The factory is a fine six-story brick building, 
erected in 1888 and equipped with ingenious machinery. 
An interesting outgrowth of the modern art development of the United States is the 
growth of the silver-smith's art, which is making thousands of pieces of beautiful silverware, 
destined to become the prized'heirlooms of families 
of the twentieth century. Prominent among 
the corporations carrying forward this artistic and 
attractive industry is the Whiting Manufacturing 
Company, whose works at New-York City employ 
400 men in the fabrication of every article of solid 
silver known to the trade or used by the people. 
Their business was founded many years ago, and 
has advanced until it now employs a very large capi- 
tal. The artistically beautiful products created by 
this company, and wrought out by skilled artisans, 
are now to be found all over the world, sometimes 
in forms that would have done honor to Benve- new york : whiting MANUPAciuHiNt 




NEW YORK : ARCHER & PANCOAST 
MANUFACTURING COMPANY. 




THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



635 




NEW YORK : 
GORHAM MANUFACTURING COMPANY. 



uto Cellini, and always affording keen delight to artistic and 
appreciative spirits. None of the famous silversmiths of Eu- 
rope can demonstrate superiority to this widely known com- 
pany. The Whiting company has confined itself - strictly to 
pure solid silver goods, so that its very familiar trade-mark 
always means the finest wares. Its factory is at Fourth Street 
and Lafayette Place, but its main selling establishment, whole- 
sale and retail, is on Union Square, New- York City. 

The Gorham Manufacturing Company of Providence, 
(R. I.), has two grand warehouses at New-York City, at 
Broadway and Nineteenth Street and 9 Maiden Lane, where 
they make a rare display of silver and silver-plated ware. 

The very attractive sales-rooms of the Bradley & Hubbard 
Manufacturing Company are at 26 Park Place. 

While many business houses in England date back to the last century, few in America 
can show an existence of 136 years, like F. W. Devoe & Co., founded by William Post, of 
New York, in 1755. Paints and colors, with their adjuncts of varnishes, brushes and artists' 
materials are manufactured by this firm in a high grade of perfection, formerly attainable 
only in European centres. In 1889 F. W. Devoe & Co., received at the Paris Exposition 
the only award, a gold medal, for fine railway varnishes. As this was in competition with 
all the fine varnish-makers in the world, the honor accorded to this firm for excellence of 
manufacture stands out in strong relief. Colors of every description are made by F. W. 

Devoe & Co. in a degree of purity and fineness at least 
equal to those of England and France. In their large 
brush-factory may be seen manufactured every de- 
scription of brush, from an artist's red sable miniature 
to a whitewash head. A concern like this, which em- 
iUlb^^^^ONSllllSPWli lllfe^^^ ploys hundreds of men, and is managed with skill and 
'^ ''^ ''■" [iSpMilHl^P^^^^^ discretion, certainly inspires confidence in the public. 
From 1794 to 1855 the shop was in a small wooden 
building at the corner of Water and Fletcher Streets. 
In 1852 Mr. Devoe entered the firm, which now in- 
cludes also James F. Drummond and J. Seaver Page. The salesrooms and offices are at 
the corner of Fulton and William Streets, New York ; the paint-factories, at Horatio and 
Jane Streets ; and the varnish and Japan works, at Newark (N. J). 

Liszt, Wagner, Berlioz, Rubinstein and numberless other celebrated musicians and artists 
have borne witness to the unrivaled qualities of the Steinway pianos. They pronounce them 
unsurpassed in poetic and sympathetic tone, color, sonority, sustaining power, and sparkle 
and brilliancy of tone ; unsurpassed in the precision, elasticity and power of their action, 
and beyond competition in their solidity of construction, general excellence of workmanship 
and consequent durability. Whenever and wherever exhibited they have invariably received 
the highest distinction. A first-prize medal was awarded them at the London International 
Exhibition, in 1862. They received the first grand 
gold medal at the Paris Exposition Universelle 
in 1867 ; the two highest awards at the Centen- 
nial Exhibition in Philadelphia, 1876; and first 
premium and two special diplomas of merit at the 
Sydney International Exhibition in 1879. King 
Charles XV. of Sweden, in 1868, honored the 
Steinways by decreeing them the grand national 
gold medal with crown and ribbon. The Royal 
Academdes of Arts and Sciences of Stockholm new york: steinway * sons. 




NEW YORK: 



DEVOE & CO. 





Adler ^ ISullivan, Architects. 
MUSIC HALL. 



636 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

and Berlin, also in 1868, conferred academical honors upon 
members of Steinway & Sons for "remarkable anc 
tional improvements." The Society of Fine Arts 
Paris, in 1867, awarded them an honorary prize medal 
for "the excellence and the superiority of their 
pianos." In 1885, at the International Inven- 
tors' Exhibition at London, they were awarded 
the grand gold medal for "excellence of their 
pianos and several meritorious and useful inven- 
tions," and at the same time tae London Society 
of Arts presented to them a special gold medal. 
In 1890 Steinway & Sons were appointed, by 
three separate Royal Warrants, " Piano Manu- 
facturers to Her Majesty the Queen of England and their Royal Highnesses the Prince and 
Princess of Wales." Steinway & Sons stand preeminently at the head of the piano industry ; 
and they lead the world in the value of their factory plants in New- York City, at "Stein- 
way," Long Island, and at Hamburg, Germany, and in the universal reputation of their 
pianos. 

The rapid development of ecclesiastical art in the United 
States is largely due to the efforts of two brothers, young Eng- 
lishmen, who in 1857 founded their business under the firm name 
of J. & R. Lamb. They were the first to formulate in the United 
States the idea of religious art as a specialty; and as artistic mis- 
sionaries they have replaced the bareness and ugliness of the 
church interiors of those days with harmonious color and sym- 
bolical decoration, in wood . metal, stone and marble. Their 
industry has been housed in the heart of old Greenwich Village, 
at No. 59 Carmine Street. This is now lower New York. Car- 
mine Street is practically an extension of Sixth Avenue on the 
south, and the Sixth-Avenue cars continue their way down town 
past the door of No. 59. In their "works" they have gathered 
together the best art-craftsmen of the Old World; German wood- 
workers, Swiss carvers, English workers in metal and stained 
glass, Italian mosaic-workers and embroiderers, and French 
NEW YORK. J. & R. WMB. rcpousse-workcrs and engravers. These various nationalities 
work harmoniously together, directed by the Lambs, and thus the designs made under 
American influence are executed by the best trained foreign skill. Some of the finest ex- 
amples of altars, reredoses, rood screens, pulpits, eagle lecterns, stained-glass windows, 
mosaics, and mural paintings have here been created. When possible, the entire interior 
of the church, including the chancel and baptistery, complete in all details of furniture, 
color and glass, have been executed, and in this way a imity and harmony have been 
secured, impossible under any other method. The 
house in old Carmine Street, New York, receives 
many visitors from all parts of the country, because 
it is a museum of embroideries and tapestries, carv- 
ing, stained glass, and everything valued in religious 
art. As specialists in ecclesiastical art work, J. & R. 
Lamb stand at the head of the profession ; first in 
business ; first in price ; and first in patronage. 

The development of optical instruments is one of 
the most beneficent phases of modern science, and 
affords constant comfort to millions of people, besides lockport : erie canal locks. 









J- 












^^SBPIa^- 


J . 1 


y 




1 MSBI^im 


11 


~ 




i^yflnraSyfliSfP 


£ 


:^ 





ROCHESTER : THE BAUSCH 
OPTICAL COMPANY. 



T//£ STATE OF NEIV YORK. 637 

giving increasing facilities for careful scientific research. 
In Rochester there is a large and handsome factory, where 
400 persons are employed in making microscopes and 
their accessories, eye-glasses and spectacle-lenses, photo- 
graphic lenses and diaphragm shutters, telescopes and 
magnifiers, and other kinds of optical goods, which are 
sent thence to all parts of the world. This is the famous 
establishment of the Bausch & Lomb Optical Company, 
founded in 1853 by J. J. Bausch (now its president), 
and honored with many medals and diplomas at the 
world's great expositions. Their products are made by 
the aid of a variety of delicate and ingenious machinery, 
covered by specific patents, and perfectly adapted to the grinding of the glasses, the prep- 
aration of the mountings, and other interesting processes. The company has a well- 
equipped branch office in New- York City. The Bausch & Lomb establishment may be 
considered a semi-public scientific institution, wherein the results of the most efficient 
scientific and mechanical experiments and study are given to the public in the way of optical 
goods of a peculiarly high grade, the products ranking on an equality with the best of 
makers in the olden lands. As a general optical establishment it stands foremost of all in 
this country. Its products, while adapted to the requirements of individual use, go largely 
into the laboratories of the many educational institutions, where they are an important factor 
in the educational system, and are also used for scientific research in the various depart- 
ments of the United- States Government. 

A singularly interesting industry of Troy is the manufacture of instruments for engi- 
neers and surveyors, which was founded h-^re by Julius Hanks, in 1825. On the site of his 
quaint old two-gabled building now stands the large manufactory of W. & I^. E. Gurley, of 
Troy, devoted to the same business, and successfully conducted by two college-bred 
brothers, one of whom entered the Hanks establishment in 1840. The yearly product is over 
$200,000, far exceeding the output of any similar concern in America. There is not a 
State or Territory in which the Gurley instruments are not used ; and great numbers of them 
have been exported to Mexico, Cuba, South America 
and Canada, and to such remote countries as Egypt, 
Syria, Arabia, China and Japan. The engraving and 
graduating machinery is of exquisite delicacy and pre- 
cision ; and platinum wire is made here of such ex- 
ceeding fineness that a thread of it long enough to 
encircle the earth could be coiled inside a thimble. 
The work -shops in this factory are particularly worthy 
of mention as models in their line ; the whole being 
filled with ingenious machinery, admirably arranged, 
and the workmen bearing evidence of intelligence and '^^°^ ■ w. a l. e. gurley. 

masterly skill. The names of William Gurley and Lewis E. Gurley are also identified with 
a number of Troy's institutions. 

America has in various ways surpassed all other countries. One of the finest types of 
this supremacy is shown in the marvelous wholesale dry-goods house of the H. B. Claflin 
Co., of New York, whose sales for a score of years have exceeded in amount those of any 
other mercantile house in the whole world. In the present the sales amount to almost 
$(50,000,000; the whole amount being exclusively in strictly wholesale dry-goods. The 
founder of this house was the late Horace B. Claflin, who began in New York in 1843, ^^^ 
died in 1885, leaving an unblemished record for business integrity and ability. The capital 
stock of the company is $9,000,000; the subscription to which, in 1890, was one of 
the most' marked evidences of esteem, there being over $21,000,000 subscribed for the 





NEW YORK THE H B CLAFLIN COMPANY 



638 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

$3,000,000 offered to the public. The premises 
occupied comprise one of the largest business houses 
in the country, and are valued at upwards of 
$2,000,000. When they were built, they surpassed 
every building erected for the wholesale dry-goods 
trade, and to-day they fairly rival all that have since 
been built ; the frontage on Worth Street alone being 
375 feet. The estimated net profits of the business 
are about $1,000,000 a year. The active head of 
this gigantic concern is the founder's eldest son, 
John Claflin, who holds the office of President of 
the company. 

The commercial importance of the fur-trade to 
New-York City has steadily increased since early in 
the present century, when the industry was founded by such pioneers as John Jacob Astor, 
Carson Brevoort, Ramsay Crooks, Christian G. Gunther and John G. Wendel. As far 
back as 1820 Christian G. Gunther founded, in Maiden Lane, New- York 
City, the business now carried on under the name of C. G. Gunther's 
Sons, which was for years a notable landmark, and which now, after a 
lapse of nearly three quarters of a century, is one of the monuments of 
the city's commercial enterprise and success. The sign of the "White 
Polar Bear," so familiar to many old New-Yorkers, and famous in itself 
as the work of Launitz, the first American sculptor, was moved from 
the old Maiden-Lane stand in 1866 to 502 and 504 Broadway, and again 
in 1876 to 184 Fifth Avenue, the present location of the firm. The 
i 'usiness has been carried on in a direct line of succession, and is now in 
:he hands of the third generation, the grandsons of the founder. The 
house stands foremost in the trade, not only as the oldest of its kind in 
the United States, but in the volume of business transacted. Its patrons 
include the leading people, not only of New- York City, but of every 
section of the country where furs are in vogue, and they never fail to 
find at the handsome warerooms of this establishment an incomparable 
assortment of manufactured furs, in most instances the original concep- 
tions of this leading house, and invariably designed to conform to the 
latest decrees of fashion. 
The crown and culmination of a gentleman's apparel is his hat ; and the originator and 
leader of styles in this country is the firm of R. Dunlap & Co., whose main retail store is 
at 178-180 Fifth Avenue, close to the Fifth-Avenue Hotel, with an elegant store at 181 
Broadway, and an enormous hat factory in Brooklyn. Robert Dunlap founded this busi- 
ness in 1857, and is the only partner. The Dunlap products have won medals at the 
Philadelphia, Paris and other expositions, and in- 
clude a full and complete line of silk, felt, straw 
and opera hats for gentlemen, all of the finest grades 
and latest styles, besides a variety of jaunty and 
fashionable hats for ladies. The factory at Brook- 
lyn employs 700 persons, their yearly pay-roll 
reaching $500,000, and is the most complete estab- 
lishment of its kind in this country. It also main- 
tains large retail stores in Philadelphia and Chica- 
go, and has agents in all the other principal cities. 
A "Dunlap hat" is a standard staple commodity, 
and is to be found in every town in the United StatCo where a respectable hat store is kept. 




NEW YORK C G. 
GUNTHER S SONS. 




DUNLAP i. CO 



THE STATE OF XEIV YORK. 



639 



^^^*T^* < t^ 2^ 




T VOL HOS ERY M LLS 



The busy city of Cohoes, on the Mohawk 
River, near its confluence with the Hudson, 
turns out over $10,000,000 worth of manufac- 
tured goods every year ; and is famous for an 
immense output of hosiery and underwear. In 
I S55 a factory for making underwear was founded 
here by J. G. Root, who admitted his sons A. 
J. and S. G. Root to partnership, in i860, and 
afterwards retired himself. The business was 
incorporated in 1875 ^^ the Root Manufacturing 
Co., of which A. J. Root is president. It owns 
and occupies the three four-story brick buildings known as the Tivoli Hosiery Mills, admir- 
ably equipped with all kinds of modern machinery, and employing 550 operatives. The 
Root Manufacturing Co. manufactures extensively the famous "Standard" knit underwear, 
making a specialty of ladies', gentlemen's, boys' and children's fine white-wool, scarlet, 
camels' hair, natural and white merino underwear, which is unrivalled for quality, finish, 
durability and uniform excellence, and has no superior in the European or American 
markets, while the prices quoted in all cases necessarily at- 
tract the attention of prudent and careful buyers. The 
resources and facilities of the company are so complete and 
extensive, that the largest orders can be promptly filled, an 
advantage that the trade is quick to appreciate. The trade 
extends throughout all sections of the United States and 
Canada, and is speedily increasing, owing to the superiority 
and reliability of its standard knit underwear. The influence 
exercised by this company in the manufacture of underwear 
has been of the most salutary and useful character. While the 
corporation is the Root Manufacturing Company, the mills 
are known as the ' ' Tivoli Hosiery Mills. " The selling agents 
are William Iselin & Co., 339 Canal Street, New-York City. 
New York has naturally the commanding position as a 
distributing point for all manner of head-coverings for the 
65,000,000 of American people, and there, too, as a natural outcome of this position has 
developed the one great house — C. H. Tenney & Company — that leads the world in the 
handling of hats. In 1867 Charles H. Tenney founded the house, as commission-merchants 
in fur, wool and straw hats, and he (being still the only partner) handles the product of 40 
manufacturers of New England and the Middle States. This group of factories employs 
5,000 persons and their yearly products exceed $5,000,000 in value. The Tenney establish- 
ment at 610-614 Broadway has nearly three acres of floor- 
ing, and is the largest of the kind in the world. The trade 
centering here reaches the remotest parts of the Republic, 
supplying hats of all kinds, for all seasons and uses. 

The wholesale grocery house of the Thurber-Whyland 
Company was established in New-York City, in 1857, by 
H. K. Thurber and John F. Pupke, and, after several 
changes in W^q personnel of the partners constituting the 
house, it was incorporated under the above title, January 
3, 1891, with a capital of $3,000,000. It does the largest 
business in food products in the world, comprising every- 
thing that is eaten or drunk. Its trade extends throughout 
the United States and to every civilized country of the 
H. TENNEY i CO. world, a result which has been attained by the reliable 




NEW York: masonic temple. 








«sP^ 



NEW YORK : THURBER-WHYLAND CO. 



r- 



-x. 



640 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

quality of the goods manufactured and dealt in, and by honor- 
able dealing. The incorporation of the Thurber-Whyland 
Company is in keeping with an apparent tendency of the times 
for all large establishments to assume a corporate form, as being 
preferable to individual partnerships, which are subject to 
frequent changes through death and other causes. 

One of the most important industries located on the Brook- 
lyn water-front of New-York harbor is the extensive roasting es- 
tablishment of Arbuckle Bros. Coffee Company. Their large 
factories form one of the familiar sights from the Brooklyn 
Bridge, and illustrate the great demand for the Arbuckle coffee. 
Thousands of car-loads of this coffee are annually shipped all 
over this great country, and the demand and popularity of the article are still constantly in- 
creasing, and taxing even the exceptional facilities which the Arbuckles have for handling 
their product. Almost any day you may see large ocean steamships unloading at their docks 
cargoes of green coffee, imported direct through their branch houses or agents established in 
the coffee-growing countries of the world. Across the same dock you may see trains of freight 
cars, on floats, being loaded with cases of coffee brought to them from the mills by machinery. 
The mills themselves are, by far, the largest in the world, and are thoroughly equipped 
with all the latest improvements and machinery for properly and economically doing their 
work. The Arbuckles have always stood for purity in coffees. They started out with this idea, 

and have always rigidly adhered to 
it, and now see the reward in the 
largest coffee business in the world. 
The firm of John Dwight & Co., 
of New York, which began business 
and the manufacture of bi-carbonate 
of soda and saleratus in 1847, ^^^ 
the result of the belief that these 
products could be manufactured 
better by improved original methods 
than was then being done in Eng- 
land, where the entire supply for this 
country was at that time obtained. 
The results of the experiments then tried, proved eminently satisfactory, and the birth, in 
America, of a new industry was an accomplished fact. From a very small beginning, the 
business has grown, until the factory and its appurtenances cover 33- acres of ground, in 
the heart of the city of New York. The firm attributes its success principally to the 
superior quality of the products of its manufacture. It has been their constant endeavor 
to make the Cow brand of soda and saleratus preeminent. The magnitude of the business 
done, and the character of the trade supplied, will bear ample testimony to what degree 
of success they have attained, the goods of John Dwight & Co. being found everywhere 
from Maine to California, in general and favorite use among the households of America. 

The name of E. R. Durkee & Co. has become 
synonymous with reliable food products, fine spices, 
salad dressing and kindred appetizing condiments, 
throughout the United States. This unique in- 
dustry was founded in 1850 by E. R. Durkee, and 
it has developed into the largest business of its kind 
in this country. The house employs several hun- 
dred hands, and has its office, laboratory and 
warehouses in New York, with extensive ware- new york ; john dwight & co. 



J iBBsi 

mssBncgis ljujlj ivvAiu 







le an — 

SIB pBJJB fijijfl siiBPi na I 



BROOKLYN : ARBUCKLE BROS. COFFEE CO. 




THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 641 

houses and mills in Brooklyn, fully equipped with all the latest improved machinery and 
appliances necessary for the successful prosecution of their business. They import large 
quantities of whole spices, cereals, etc., from all parts of the globe, which (ground and un- 
ground) are put up by ingenious and private methods, invented and controlled by the firm, 
in sealed packets of very attractive style and convenient sizes. Their dressings for salads 

careful 




by caretul processes 
"Gauntlet Brands " of 
etc., have not only be- 
standards of excel- 
jobbing and retail gro- 



York City, near the 
one of America's most 




DURKEE i CO 



and cold meats are made in great quantities, 
under their personal supervision ; and their 
salad dressing, mustards, spices, extracts, 
come famous, but are the acknowledged 
lence, and may be found in every first-class 
eery in the United States and Canada. 

Just west of the business-heart of New- 
river-front, is the great factory of Sapolio, 
famous products ; a fame built up by rare enterprise. 
Sapolio, in its silver wrapper and blue band, is seen 
in almost every household. It has saved to the 
toilers of the world an amount of labor beyond all 
computation, has gained a substantial foothold among 
the masses of the people of all civilized countries, 
and brought renown and wealth to its proprietors, 
the well-known house of Enoch Morgan's Sons Co. 
The business was established originally as soap and 
candle manufacturers in 1809, by the family of Enoch 
Morgan. In 1869 Sapolio was first introduced, and 
in no country has there ever been produced an article 
for general house-cleaning purposes that has met with anything like its success, a part of 
which is due to its exceptionally able advertising, the cost of which in a single year has 
amounted to over $300,000. Like all successful productions, Sapolio has had many imita- 
tions, but it has maintained its rights in the courts with a courage 
that not only deserved, but secured, success, and its trade-mark 
cases are quoted as precedents in almost every suit against in- 
fringers of trade-mark rights. 

Rochester has a world-wide fame for its nurseries and seed- 
houses, sending out trees and plants by the million, and a limit- 
less quantity and endless variety of seeds, 5,000 people being en- 
gaged in this work, which also has several magazines. 

Troy manufactures enormous numbers of stoves, and also 
both makes and launders millions upon millions of linen collars 
and cuffs. 

Binghamton is the third city in the United States in the cigar-making industry. 
Brooklyn has the leading sugar-refineries of the Union, and a vast number of other 
manufactures. 

Gloversville and Johnstown produce gloves and mittens, in every variety, and of many 
materials. 

Oswego has the largest starch-factory in the world covering five acres of ground, and 
employing over 1,000 operatives. 

Among other interesting products are the peppermint-oil of Lyons, cheese of Little 
Falls, whips of Windsor, condensed milk of Amenia, toys of Walton and Waverly, type- 
writers of Ilion, rakes of Canastota, ultramarine of Tottenville, straw-paper of Chatham, 
tinners' tools of Tarrytown, pails of Clifton Springs, fire-engines of Seneca Falls, piano- 
stools of Dobb's Ferry, locomotives of Schenectady and Dunkirk, air-guns of Herkimer, 
and oil-cloth of Newtown. 




NEW YORK : 
ENOCH MORGAN'S SONS CO, 



642 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




ROCHESTER : 



^E JAMES CUNNINGHAM, SON & CO. 



The largest manufactory of exclusively fine vehicles, comprising landaus, broughams, 
coupes, victorias, Berlin coaches, and others, and mortuary vehicles, consisting of hearses 
and wagons, in the country, is the James Cunningham, Son & Co. Their work is all done 
at the huge factories of the company, in all its detail. The styles are the very latest, and 
the workmen are experienced operators. The Cunningham vehicles are very widely known, 
and distributed through their branch offices at New York, Chicago and St. Louis. The 

business has been carried on for a period of over 
50 years by James Cunningham and his son. 
About eight years ago the firm was converted into 
a stock company, with a capital of $803,000, to 
which is added a surplus of an equal amount, and, 
although nominally a great stock corporation, with 
more than a million and a half invested, and doing 
business over the whole Union, it is nevertheless 
practically a great family partnership of an ex- 
ceptionally successful character. The works are located at Rochester, and are very large 
and extensive brick buildings, five, six and seven stories high. There are 600 men employed 
the whole year round. The specialty of the company is high-grade vehicles. 

The bright and active city of Syracuse has numerous lucrative successful industrial 
enterprises, one of the strongest and oldest of which is the Syracuse branch of the Whitm.an 
& Barnes Manufacturing Co. The spacious and handsome factory covers a square of 
ground, and is thoroughly equipped with all the complicated, powerful and ingenious ma- 
chinery necessary for the conduct of the work. Prominent among its output is an almost 
infinite variety of mower-knives and reaper sickles, whose excellence is known to the farmers 
of many States. The company also manufactures spring-keys, and many other articles 
of similar character. Besides the Syracuse fac- ci^iri 

tory, it has works at Akron and Canton (Ohio), 
and St. Catherine's (Ontario). The presiden t of the 
company is Hon. A. L. Conger; and George 
Barnes is chairman. 

Kitchen-ware is now of so varied a description : 
that many pages would be required to properly de- 
scribe it. Back 200 years, earthen-ware was made 
in New York. To glaze this the most primitive 
methods were adopted. After earthen-ware came 
porcelain, and that has been the housewife's pride 
for a long time back. Great care, however, had to 
be taken of the porcelain-lined kettles, and their liability to crack made them a source of anx- 
iety to the housewife. Manufacturers and dealers began to look about for a substitute. This 
was finally arrived at in the advent of stamped metal ware. Sheet metal was pounded and 
stamped by dies of great power into kettles, pots and pans. As there was a complaint 
that these tasted "tinny," and would rust and get easily bruised, the popular favor sought 
better wares, and perfection was found in the "Agate Iron Ware." The Lalance & Gros- 

jean Company was one of the five great companies 
that consolidated the tinware departments into the 
Central Stamping Company, and it is thus enabled 
to devote itself exclusively to the "agate iron 
wares," which is a stamped iron with a porcelain- 
like coating, in high glaze, and decorated in imita- 
tion of marble or stone. By this means, with iron 
as a base, the ware is durable, non-dentable, un- 
breakable and inexpensive ; and by reason of the 



ilAN i BARNES CO. 




WOODHAVEN : LALANCE & GROSJEAN MFG. CO. 



THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



64: 



handsome and always polished finish is a thing of beauty and cleanliness. This was manu- 
factured by the Lalance & Grosjean Manufacturing Co., a company operated at Woodhaven, 
N. Y., with $2,500,000 capital. This company were one of the pioneers in stamped ware, 
having begun its manufacture in 1850. Their plant covers 15 acres, and they give employ- 
ment to 1,500 hands. They have received awards at expositions all over the world, and in 
the line of stamped ware anti agate ware rank pre-eminent. 

Until 1853 the work of harvesting grain was done by hand. It was a slow and waste- 
ful way. At that time Walter A. Wood, an ingenious young mechanic, began experiment- 
ing with harvesting machines. It was then an open question if such machines were 
practical ; but his bold pioneer work has resulted in the Walter A. Wood Mgwing & Reap- 
ing Machine Co., one of the largest in the world. He is its active president. The com- 
pany has 40 offices, eight of them in Europe, fourinSouth America, five in Australia. The 
plant at Hoosick Falls, N. Y., covers 85 acres, including freight-houses and tracks. The 
company owns and operates two locomotives and a large number of cars on its own premises. 
In their employ are many thousand people. Their specialty is the manufacture of machines 
for mowing hay and for reaping and binding grain. During the company's career over 
850,000 of them have been sold. They have taken twelve highest prizes at International 
expositions, and over 1,250 first premiums at State fairs and field contests. The machines 
are used in all civilized regions, except Asia ; and even there they have a foothold. The Wal- 
ter A? Wood Mowing & Reaping Machine Co. is one of the gigantic industries of America. 




HOOSICK FALLS : WALTER A. WOOD MOWING & REAPING MACHINE CO. 

The manufacturing establishment of Pratt & Letchworth, organized in the year 1848, is 
one of the notable institutions of the city of Buffalo. It is, indeed, one of the notable in- 
dustries of the whole State of New York. It was the first house to manufacture a complete 
line of carriage malleable iron. Commencing first in importing saddlery hardware from 
England, it gradually developed into manufacturing the same articles itself, giving close at- 
tention to the special and patented articles, of 
which it has introduced, in the way of valuable 
patents, more than any other saddlery har^l 
ware concern in the country. The compaiii 
employs over 1,100 people in the manufacture 
of malleable iron, steel castings, saddlery hard- 
ware, wood hames and iron toys. Of these 
combined lines it is the largest manufactory in 
the country, with a trade extending from the buffalo : pratt i letchworth. 



T 




644 



K'mC'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 







TROY . THE FULLER & WARREN CO 



Atlantic to the Pacific, and an extensive export trade to South America and Australia, and to 
a limited extent to the Continent of Europe. An interesting feature in connection with the 
house is, that during its entire history it has never had any trouble whatever with its em- 
ployes in the shape of strikes and lockouts. It has a free library for the use of its employes. 
The group of factory buildings form a picturesque industrial establishment, where solidity, 
neatness, admirable arrangement and complete equipment are everywhere noticeable. 

Stove-making is one of the 
chief industries of the region 
of Troy and Albany, whose 
products are exported to Eu- 
rope, Australia, South and Cen- 
tral America and Mexico in ' 
vast quantities. The business 
began at Troy in 1821, and 
the value of the stoves made 
there yearly is nearly $3,000,- 
000. The chief firm is the Ful- 
ler & Warren Co., whose Clin- 
ton Stove Works, comprising a group of fine brick buildings, cover six acres and employ 
1,200 men, with a yearly out-put of 60,000 stoves. They occupy the same ground taken 
at the foundation of the firm, in 1836. From their six large American agencies, the pro- 
ducts of these works are distributed to all parts of the United States ; and extensive 
shipments are continually made to distant countries. No work of the kind surpasses theirs in 
scientific excellence of construction, beauty of design and perfection of casting, results due to 
the enterprise of the manufacturers and the disciplined skill of the operatives. The unap- 
proachable merit of their castings and designs has made Fuller & Warren familiar wherever 
stoves are needed to cook the food of civilized man, or to shield him from the rigors of winter. 
The New York Anderson Pressed Brick Company was organized in 1SS7 to manufacture 

the well-known Anderson pressed, face, shape 
and ornamental brick, under a license from 
J. C. Anderson, patentee, for the States of Con- 
necticut and New Jersey, and that part of the 
State of New York lying east of the meridian 
of Washington, D. C. Their immense works, 
of which the engraving will give an idea, are 
located at Kreischerville, Staten Island, on the 
shore of Staten-Island Sound. The product 
of this company has achieved the highest 
reputation in New York for uniform excellence and beauty. Their buffs, grays, garnet, old 
gold, mottled, brown, red, rock-faced, etc., are largely used in the best class of buildings 
in New York, Brooklyn and other eastern cities. The company are the owners of beds of 
the rarest varieties of clay in this country, which en- 
ables them to meet the most artistic requirements, a 
fact the New- York architects were not slow in discov- 
ering. Mr. Anderson's now celebrated system of burn- 
ing on cars was first put into practical use by this com- 
pany. Their office is at 132 Mangin Street, New York. 
The American Biscuit and Manufacturing Com- 
pany has a very large plant at New York. Here, also, 
is the headquarters of Belding Eros. & Co., the silk 
manufacturers, who have large and prosperous mills in 
Connecticut, Massachusetts, Michigan and California. new york : American biscuit and mfg. co. 




STATEN ISLAND : NEW-YORK ANDERSON PRESSED BRICK CO. 






H15T0KY. 

The earliest inhabitants 

of North Carolina were the 

Mound-Builders, dwelling m 

the deep valley between the 

Blue Ridge and the AUe- 

ghanies. They were annihi- 
lated by the fierce Muscogees, 

who, in turn, gave way, after 

an exterminating war, to the 
Cherokees. This great tribe, with its 60 towns and 6,000 
warriors, joined the British in fighting the French, and 
afterwards in harassing the American colonists. After many 
a wild foray, they were confined to the valleys southwest 
of the Balsam Mountains. In 1835 a part of the tribe 
sold its Carolina domain, and moved beyond the Missis- 
sippi. Many Cherokees remained hidden amid their native 
mountains ; and four companies of them enlisted in the Con- 
federate army, while others joined the Union Tennessee regi- 
ments. About 1 , 200 now dwell on the Qualla Reserve, south 
of the Balsam Range, forming a scattered community of 
farmers, educated in English as well as Cherokee, and 
governed by a salaried chief (elected every four years), and 
a council, whose seat is at Elawati (Yellow Hill). No one 
can hold office who has helped defraud the tribe, or denies 
the existence of God, or disbelieves in Heaven and Hell. 
This Eastern band of Cherokees numbers 2,885, mainly 
full-bloods. They have five day-schools, and a training- 
school conducted by Friends. They also enjoy the privilege 
of voting, and are Republican almost to a man. The 
Tocheeostee ("Racing River") of the Cherokees became 
known as the French Broad. Swannanoa perpetuates the 
sound of its multitudinous ravens' wings ; Tuckasegee, the 
terrapins of its valley ponds; Nantahala, the noon-day sun, 
lighting its dark glens ; and CuUasaja, the sweet waters. 

In the closing hours of the 15th century, six years after Columbus discovered America, 
Sebastian Cabot cruised southward nearly to Albemarle Sound; and in 1524, Verrazano 
sighted Cape Fear. The renowned Sir Walter Ralegh, Queen Elizabeth's favorite and King 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at . . . Roanoke Island. 

Settled in 1585 

Founded by ... . Englishmen. 
One of the original 13 States. 
Population in i£6o, . . 992,622 

In 1870, 1,071,361 

In 1880, ^i399(750 

White, 867,242 

Colored 532,508 

American-born, . . 1,396,008 
Foreign-born, . . . 3.742 

Males, 687,908 

Females, 711,842 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), 1,617,947 
Population to the square mile, 31 
Voting Population, . . . 294,750 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 134,784 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 147,902 
Net State Debt, . . $7,538,567.79 
Real Property, . . . $122,000,000 
Personal Property, . $81,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 52,250 
U. S. Representatives (in 1893), 9 
Militia (disciplined), . . . 1,470 

Counties, g6 

Post-offices, 2,638 

Railroads (miles), .... 3|Ooi 

Vessels, 370 

Tonnage, 13,205 

Manufactures (j'early), $20,084,237 

Operatives, 18,109 

Yearly Wages, . . . $2,740,768 

Farm Land (in acres), . 22,639,644 

Farm- Land Values, $135,793,602 

Farm Products (yearly), $51,729,611 

Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 208,657 

Newspapers, 205 

Latitude, . . . 33''50' to 36"33' N. 
Longitude, . . 75^27' to 84^20' W. 
Temperature, . . — 5° to 107'' 

Mean Temperature (Raleigli), 59° 



TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Wilmington, 20,056 

Raleigh 12,678 

Charlotte ii,557 

Asheville, 10,235 

Winston 8,018 

New Berne, 7>843 

Durham ^'■^^k 

Salisbury, 4i4io 

Concord, 4,339 

Fayetteville, 4>^2 



646 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MOREHEAD CltY : 
AND TEACHERS' ASSEMBLY. 



James's victim, received in 1584 a charter designed to 
foster the colonization of America by Englishmen, and 
sent out various expeditions to this end. In 1585 the 
first English colony in all America entered North Caro- 
lina, settling on Roanoke Island. For a year 108 im- 
migrants languished here, getting into such straits for 
food that they killed their mastiffs, and ate "Dogges' 
porridge. " They gladly went back to England, in Sir 
Francis Drake's fleet, much fearing the hostile Indians, 
who destroyed a subsequent colony of Ralegh's, root 
and branch. The Roanoke men first bore back to Eng- 
land the custom of smoking tobacco, learned from the North-Carolina natives. In the last 
ill-fated colony on the island was born Virginia Dare, the first white native American. The 
second Ralegh colony appears to have been absorbed by the Croatan Indians, and a settle- 
ment of 2,000 people in Robeson County, claiming descent from the Indians, are also 
descendants of the "Lost Colony." 

Secretary Povey, of Virginia, explored the Chowan country in 1623 ; and 30 years later 
Roger Green led a colony from the Nansemond to the Roanoke region. The next per- 
manent settlers established themselves between Albemarle and Currituck Sounds, and lived 
almost as hermits, widely separated from each other. They were mostly Friends, and' 
bought their land from Cistacanoe, the chief of the local Indians. Half of the population 
of North Carolina 70 years later were Friends. The first timothy grass came from Durant's 
Neck, in this cradle of North Carolina, where it grows wild. Timothy, a Friend, sent seeds 
of it to England, where the new forage-plant received his name. 

In 1663 Charles II. granted the entire continent south of Virginia to 31° and west to the 
Pacific Ocean to eight lords-proprietors, who formed a liberal government, gave land freely 
to settlers (for quit-rents), made taxation an affair of the local legislature, and decreed 
full religious liberty. The latter novelty caused many Dissenters to settle here, coming 
especially from tithe-ridden Virginia. The complicated and cumbrous Fundamental Con- 
stitutions were drawn up in 1670, by John Locke, the philosopher, for the colony, but 
strongly resisted by the people and finally abandoned. Immigrants from Bermuda, Bar- 
badoes and New England came to Albemarle (as the province was then called) ; the armed 
rebellion of the deposed Gov. Cary yielded to regular troops from Virginia ; and the moun- 
taineers defeated the savage Tuscarora Indians, and drove them to New York. In 1728, 
when North Carolina had 15,000 inhabitants, the King bought out seven of the lords-pro- 
prietors. South Carolina having much earlier cast off its allegiance to the proprietors, 
and become a Royal Province. Prior to 1746 considerable numbers of Scotch Highlanders 
settled in North Carolina; and between 1746 and 1776, many more, implicated in the rebel- 
lion of Prince Charles, were transported to America, and occupied the counties along and 
southwest of Cape-Fear River. About 3,000 Scotch-Irish people also left Ulster, and sought 
religious freedom in western Carolina. In 1 712 a large colony of Swiss and Germans, under 

Baron de Graffenreid, settled along the Neuse and 
Trent Rivers, naming their chief town Neiu Berne. 
The Moravians also bought 100,000 acres north of 
the Yadkin River, and built Salem as their chief 
town. 

Many Virginians and Pennsylvanians migrated 
here, with Germans and Dutch, Swiss and French- 
men. They came because North Carolina was a 
free country, and they kept it so. Tyrannical 
governors were deposed, church-rates refused, and 
LiNviLLE RIVER. extortiouatc crowu-officers bcatcn. Ini77imanyof 




THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



647 




IN THE BLUE RIDGE. 



the people of Orange and the other western coun- 
ties rose against taxation and other oppressions, 
calling themselves Regulators. Gov. Tryon de- 
feated 2,000 of them in the battle of Alamance, 
where lOO men were killed and wounded. In 
May, 1775, the people of Mecklenburg declared 
their county independent of Britain. February 
27, 1776, Cornwallis and Clinton lay with 100 ves- 
sels and seven regiments in the lower Cape-Fear 
River, but the local militia defeated 1,500 High- 
landers marching to join the British force, at the 
battle of Moore's-Creek Bridge, and 8,000 patriots collecting on the Cape-Fear River, the 
British sailed away to Charleston. Meanwhile, many North-Carolinians had crossed the 
AUeghanies, founding the first settlements of Tennessee. Six regiments of these pio- 
neers and of North-Carolina troops assembled at the Cowpens, in 1780, and after a perilous 
night-march, shattered Ferguson's British and Tory army on King's Mountain (S. C). 
Banf;rol"t says that this victory "changed the aspect of the war. The appearance of a 
numerous enemy from settlements beyond the mountains, whose very names had been 
unknown to the British, took Cornwallis by surprise." The splendid British cavalry of 
Col. Tarleton kept the Carolinas in continual alarm, until January, 1 781, when Lieut. -Col. 
Washington inflicted a crushing defeat upon this force, at the Cowpens. In 1 78 1 Gen. Greene 
made a masterly retreat of 200 miles into Virginia, hotly pursued by Lord Cornwallis. 
'^^ Returning to Guilford Court House, he was defeated there by a 
British force, but the victory cost the Royalists 600 men, and 
they retreated hastily to "Wilmington, and thence to Virginia. 

When the late civil war broke out. North Carolina remained 
true to the Union until all the surrounding States had seceded. 
When President Lincoln called on her to furnish her quota of 
troops for the Federal army, she promptly took sides with the 
South. The forts at Wilmington and Beaufort, the Charlotte Mint 
and the Fayetteville Arsenal had already been seized. In the 
struggle that ensued, the Old North State sent out more troops and 
lost more than any other in the South. Her levies included 89,344 
volunteers, 18,583 conscripts, and 19,000 reserves and militiamen, 
embodied in 62 regiments and 15 battalions of infantry, six of 
cavalry and three of artillery. Over 50,000 of these troops died in the service, or were 
wounded in battle. Three months after the secession. Gen. Butler and Com. Stringham 
bombarded and took Forts Hatteras and Clark, commanding the entrance to Pamlico 
Sound. In February, 1862, Burnside and Goldsborough, with 16,000 troops and 100 ships, 
captured the six forts on Roanoke Island, with 40 guns and 2,000 men. Within a few 
weeks, the National forces occupied Edenton, Win- 
ton, Elizabeth City, New Berne, Morehead City, Beau- 
fort, Washington, and Plymouth. Blockade-running 
flourished at Wilmington, where in a single year 
300 steamships ran the gauntlet, with over 100,000 
bales of cotton. In 1864, Admiral Porter and Gen. 
Butler failed in an attack on Fort Fisher, at the mouth 
of the river ; but Porter and Terry stormed this fort- 
ress early in 1865, with a loss of 700 men. Soon 
afterward Schofield and the 23d Corps occupied Wil- uelh-watlk bKioGE. 

mington and Goldsborough. In March, 1865, Sherman's great National army entered 
North Carolina, on its way towards Richmond, fighting with Hardee at Averysborough, and 




HICKORY-NUT GAP: 
CHIMNEY ROCK. 




^-^- yX4^ 



648 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LINVILLE GORGE. 



defeating Gen. Johnston's 26,000 Confederates at Bentonville, 
where 4,000 men were killed or wounded. Then the victors 
joined Schofield at Goldsborough. Meanwhile, Stoneman and 
the Fourth Corps had swept across from Nashville to Salisbury. 
April 13, 1865, Sherman marched into Raleigh, with the armies 
of the Ohio, the Cumberland and the Tennessee, Johnston's Con- 
federates retreating toward Charlotte. The Union commander 
invited Gov. Vance and the civil officers of the State to return to 
their capital ; and on the 26th Gen. Johnston, at Durham, sur- 
rendered to him the 36,817 Confederate soldiers of his army. 
The war left North Carolina bankrupt and prostrate, but in the 
subsequent years she has made marvellous advances in popula- 
tion, cultivated lands, improved farming methods, length of rail- 
ways, and diversified industries. 

The Name, Arx Carolina, was given by the Huguenot colon- 
ists under Ribault and Laudonniere, landing south of Beaufort in 
1562, to their little fortress, in honor of King Charles IX. of France ; and this title gradu- 
ally became attached to the country. In 1629, King Charles I. granted territory south of the 
Chesapeake to Sir Robert Heath, and named it after himself, Ca7-olana. When the new char- 
ter of 1663 was given, by Charles II., this name became Carolina. There appears to be a just 
doubt as to which of these three kings the State was named for. The popular pet name is The 
Old North State, referring to its place in the Carolinas. During the Civil War its people 
were called Tar Heels, in allusion to the prevailing tar industry of the lowland forests. 

The Arms of North Carolina bear two robed female figures. Liberty and Ceres, the 
one with a wand and Phrygian cap, the other with a great horn of plenty, filled with the 
fruits of the earth. For 40 years the State troops have borne blue silken flags with this 
device on many a deadly field of battle. 

The Governors of the State have been : Alex. Martin, 1789-92 ; Richard D. Spaight, 
1792-5; Samuel Ashe, 1795-8; William R. Davie, 1 798-9; Benjamin Williams, 1799- 
1802; James Turner, 1 802-5 ; Nathaniel Alexander, 1805-7; Benjamin Williams, 1807-8; 
David Stone, 1808-10; Benjamin Smith, 1810-11; William Hawkins, 1811-14; William 
Miller, 1814-17 ; John Branch, 1817-20; Jesse Franklin, 1820-I ; Gabriel Holmes, 1821-4; 
Hutchings G. Burton, 1824-7; James Iredell, 1827-8; John Owen, 1828-30; Montford 
Stokes, 1830-2 ; David L. Swain, 1832-5 ; Richard D. Spaight, 1835-7 ; Edward B. Dudley, 
1837-41; John M. Morehead, 1841-5 ; William A. Graham, 1845-9; Charles Manly, 
1849-51; David S. Reid, 1851-55; Thomas Bragg, 1855-59; John W. Ellis, 1859-61 ; 
Z. B. Vance, 1861-5 ; William W. Holden (provisional, 1865; Jonathan Worth, 1865-9 ; 
William W. Holden, 1869-71; Tod R. Caldwell, 1871-4; Curtis H. Brogden, 1874-7; 
Zebulon B. Vance, 1877-9; Thomas J. Jarvis, 1879-85; Alfred M. Scales, 1885-9; Daniel 
G. Fowlc, 1889-91 ; and Thomas M. Holt, 1891-92. 

Descriptive. — On its seaward front of 400 miles North Carolina is lined with long 
islands of sand, from half a mile to two miles wide, with dangerous angles at Cape Lookout 
and Cape Hatteras, and great shoals extending leagues out into the ocean, and through 
the sounds behind. Inside these sand-dunes open the broad 
sounds, Pamlico, 80 miles long by from ten to 30 miles wide, 
and 20 feet deep ; Albemarle, 60 miles long by from four to 
15 miles wide, with water nearly fresh ; and Currituck, 50 
miles long by from two to ten miles wide. Inland for 50 miles 
the country is low, and broken by swamps, lakes and inlets, 
and the broad estuaries of sluggish rivers. Currituck and 
Albemarle Sounds have no seaward openings, but discharge into 
WILMINGTON : POST-OFFICE. Pamlico Sound, from which Oregon, Hatteras and Ocracoke 




THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLIMA. 



649 




BLUE RIDGE : ROUND KNOB. 



Inlets connect with the Atlantic. The Little Dismal 
Swamp, or Alligator Swamp, between Albemarle and Pam- 
lico Sounds, the Great Dismal Swamp, and others cover 
3,000,000 acres, with soil of remarkable richness, raising 
great crops when drained and reclaimed. The Dismal- 
Swamp Canal opens inland communication between Albe- 
marle Sound and Chesapeake Bay. The chief harbors are 
at Wilmington, New Berne, Beaufort and Edenton. The 
Cape-Fear River, 300 miles long, is ascended by large 
vessels 34 miles, to Wilmington, and by sloops 120 miles, to Fayetteville. The Roanoke flows 
250 miles, and may be ascended 120 miles, to Halifax. The continuous Pamlico and Tar 
Rivers give navigation for 95 miles, to Tarborough. The Neuse affords passage for boats 
for 120 miles, to near Goldsborough. The Chowan has 75 miles of navigable current. The 
Yadkin and Catawba find the sea through South Carolina ; and the rivers beyond the Blue 
Ridge enter the Tennessee and Mississippi. 

The fisheries are of increasing value, and hatcheries have been established for rock-fish, 
herring and shad. Over 100,000 barrels of fish are caught yearly, including mullet and blue- 
fish. The oyster-beds in the sounds have recently been mapped by Lieut. Winslow, U. S. N. 
A thousand North-Carolinians are engaged in oystering, securing 170,000 bushels yearly. The 
sand-bars between Pamlico Sound and the sea are ranged by hundreds of "bankers," 

or wild ponies, cast ashore from a wreck in the 
last century, and multiplying in freedom. Wild 
fowl abound around Pamlico and Albemarle. 

Nearly half of the 20,000 square miles of 
the lowlands lies in the shore-belt, and the rest 
grows more hilly as it approaches the west. 
Farther inland comes the middle region, 20,000 
square miles of hills and uplands, with the long 
curving water-sheds of the rivers, and their wide 
valleys. Farther west lies the Piedmont plateau, 
from 60 to 75 miles wide, with frequent mountain-spurs, and cut by the valleys of the Yad- 
kin, Catawba and Broad Rivers. The Blue Ridge springs up from the Piedmont region, 
traversing the entire State, northeast and southwest, with a ragged and broken escarpment 
facing the east, and gentler western slopes, robed with heavy forests. The mountain land, 
in the extreme west, includes the huge Blue Ridge on the east, and on the west the Alle- 
ghany ("Endless") Mountains, mainly included in the Great Smoky Range, whose con- 
tinuations along the border are the Unaka, Bald, Iron and Stone Ranges. This noble 
mountain -chain is cut deep by the gorges of the westward-flowing rivers, the Little Ten- 
nessee, French Broad, and others. In the Smokies are 23 of North Carolina's 57 peaks 
above 6,000 feet high, including Clingman's Dome (6,660 feet), Mount Guyot (Bullhead), 
6,636 ; and Mount Love, 6,443. I''' these ranges and the connecting cross-chains occur the 
loftiest peaks in the Atlantic States. The trough 
between the Blue Ridge and the Alleglianies is 200 
miles long, and from 15 to 50 miles wide, covering 
6,000 square miles. In the north, Yellow Mountain 
stretches across it, from the Grandfather, the highest 
Blue-Ridge peak (5,897 feet) to Roan (6,306 feet). 
in the Smokies, with the high plateau of Watauga 
on the north, and on the south a vast valley, in 
whose purple mists lie 13 counties. Southwest of 
Yellow, beyond this deep Nolechucky Valley, Black 
Mountain' crosses the trough for 20 miles, with 18 ""■"£ French broad river, at asheville. 




PAINT ROCK. 





650 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

peaks above 6,000 feet high, including Mount 
Mitchell, the sovereign summit east of the Rocky 
Mountains, 6,711 feet above the sea. This lonely 
crest is hallowed by the grave of Prof. Elisha 
Mitchell, of the University of North Carolina, who 
lost his life here, in 1S57, while engaged in measur- 
ing the mountain height. A bronze monument was 
erected over it in 1888. In this sierra are Balsam 
Cone, 6,671 feet high; Potato Top, 6,393; ^^'^ 
Bowlen's Pyramid, 6,348. Southwest of the range 
ASHtviLLE. jjgg ^YiQ lovely valley of the French Broad, bounded 

by the Newfound Range. Farther southwest, across the valley of the Big Pigeon, towers 
the Balsam Range, 45 miles long, with 15 peaks of above 6,000 feet. Among its noblest 
crests are the Great Divide, 6,425 feet high; Junaluska, 6,278; and Devil's Court-House, 
6,049. Towards the southwestern corner of the State, the great valley is barred off again 
by the Cowee, Nantihala and Valley-River Ranges, in which the Little Tennessee and its 
affluents take their rise. A great spur running northeast from the Balsams ends in Mount 
Pisgah, 5,712 feet high, and one of the most famous landmarks of the Carolinas. 

In this "land of the sky" occur many lovely glens and fertile coves, surrounded with 
wooded ridges and profound forests, and occupied by the quaint hamlets and lonely farms 
of the mountaineers. Among the heights are the loftiest villages east of Colorado ; Boone, 
3,242 feet high; Jefferson, 2,940; Burnsville, 2,840; Waynesville, 2,756; and scores of 
others higher than Bethlehem of New Hampshire. The favorite summer-resorts are Ashe- 
ville, in the French-Broad valley ; Hot Springs, close to the AUeghanies ; Waynesville, 
under the shadow of the Balsams ; Coesar's Head, a hotel 3,500 feet high, on C?esar's-Head 
Mountain ; Haywood White Sulphur Springs, near the Balsams ; Sparkling Catawba 
Springs, with blue and white sulphur and chalybeate waters ; Arden Park, with its hotel 
and mineral waters; Glen Alpine, 13 miles from Morganton, with avast mountain-view 
from above its hotel, and tonic and alterative lithia springs; and Cloudland Hotel, 6,250 
feet high, near the top of Roan Mountain, on a flowery plateau enwalled by dark balsam 
woods, famous for the cure of hay-fever. Among the natural beauties are the Linville 
Gorge, where an angry river bursts through the Linville Mountains ; the bleak mountain- 
crowning Table Rock ; the famous Plickory-Nut Gap, nine miles long, on the Rocky 
Broad; the Painted Rocks and the Chimnies, on the French Broad; Whiteside Moun- 
tain, with a curving cliff of white rock two miles long and 1,800 feet high ; and the famous 
Pilot Mountain, in Surrey County. 

Among the most charming localities in this country is the vicinity of Asheville, where 
is situated the famous Battery-Park Hotel, one of the most perfect resorts on the continent. 
The surrounding region is as picturesque as can be found anywhere, and the hotel has been 
admirably adapted to such a romantic spot. It is, indeed, a modern paradise among the 
mountains, charming in its many gables, its airy verandas and its delightfully picturesque 
views. The hotel is owned by Col. F. Coxe, of Philadelphia, and is managed by J. B. 
Steele. It was built in 1886, and enlarged 



in 1887 and 1888, and again in 1890. The 
rooms for guests are large and well-arranged. 
There are billiard-rooms for both ladies and 
gentlemen, a spacious ball-room, ver- 
andas, promenades, parlors and re- 
ception rooms, and airy and ample 
dining rooms. All of the guest-rooms 
have outward looks, and there is a 
picturesque view from every window. 




■'^;3^: 






^ 



ASHEVILLE : BATTERY-PARK HOTEL. 



THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



651 




TRYON MOUNTAIN. 



The hotel is easily accessible from all points, and is 
just 24 hours from New York. The mild and even 
climate of Asheville makes the Battery- Park Hotel 
a delightful place of resort either in summer or 
winter. The rides and drives for miles are of the most 
romantic description ; and the city of Asheville, with 
its population of about 10,000, is composed chiefly 
of the lovely homes of the well-to-do people from 
many States who spend the whole or part of their 
time here. It is here, too, that George Vanderbilt 
has acquired about 6,000 acres of land, and is pre- 
paring a baronial estate. 

Since the war, thousands of Northerners afflicted 
with pulmonary diseases have found relief in the Blue Ridge, whose grand scenery of cliffs 
and valleys and waterfalls may be enjoyed in the pleasant summer climate. The southern- 
middle sand-hills, among the odors of the long-leaved pines, also have found favor with 
sufferers of this class. The summer-resorts along the coast, with their hotels and sea-bathing, 
are mainly occupied by Carolinians. 

North Carolina of the sixteenth century lay hidden under noble forests, of almost 
tropical richness and variety, and thousands of miles still thus 
remain, and are increasing in value. The swampy alluvial 
lands and black peaty soils of the tide-water counties have 
immense pineries, with leagues of cypresses and junipers. 
P'arther inland grow myriads of oaks, large chestnuts and 
poplars, and noble hickories, mingling along the mountains 
with hemlocks and white pines. Of late years the moun- 
tain-forests have been attacked on all sides, and lumber is 
exported in large quantities. The Piney Woods cover a level 
belt of sandy barrens, from 30 to 80 miles wide, running south- 
west across the State, from Virginia, and overshadowed by 
thick-foliaged long-leaved pines. Two thirds of the turpen- 
tine and rosin, pitch and tar produced in the United States 
comes from North Carolina, and great quantities are shipped 
from Wilmington. 

The Climates of North Carolina are those of Sicily and 
Upper Canada. The lowlands have an Italian and sub- 
tropical temperature, warm and humid, with prevailing southwest winds, and winter and 
summer means of 46° and 79°. The middle region has almost continuous northwest winds, 
with winters averaging 44° and summers of 77°. The mountain-country has the climate 
of New England, averaging 52°, sometimes falling in winter to zero, and in summer averag- 
ing 70°. The mean yearly rainfall is 60 inches in the east, 45 in the middle, and 58 among 
the mountains, evenly distributed throughout the seasons. This is nearly double the rain- 
fall of France and England, yet the air is dry and 
clear, and grapes and cotton grow successfully. 
The climate, aside from the malarial lowlands, is 
healthy, and the death-rate is low. 

Agriculture has been advanced of late years by 
the introduction of intensive farming, labor-saving ma- 
chinery, the increase of grass area, and the improve- 
ment of breeds of live-stock. The Agricultural De- 
partment and Experiment Station have given special 
attention also to fertilizers, improving their quality. 




HOT SPRINGS 




MEDOC : MEOOC VINEYARD. 



652 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

The farms produce yearly 36,000,000 bushels of corn, 5,000,000 of wheat, 5,000,000 of 
oats, 5,000,000 of sweet potatoes, 400,000 bales of cotton (worth $18,000,000), 35,000,000 
pounds of tobacco, and 6,000,000 pounds of rice, with large quantities of hay, honey and 
butter. North Carolina is the first of the States in the value of its medicinal herbs, 
mainly ginseng, spikenard, and hellebore, shipped from Statesville. 

The Bright-Tobacco Belt covers the northern counties, and yields the greater part of the 
yellow tobacco (or gold leaf) of America, singularly free from nicotine and nitrogen, and 
commanding the highest prices. 

The peanut crop exceeds 300,000 bushels yearly, at 50 bushels to the acre, the chief mar- 
ket being at Wilmington. The oil derived from peanuts is valuable for table use, lubrica- 
ting and burning in lamps. 

Grapes grow abundantly on the lowlands, and their cultivation occupies increasing 
areas. The Scuppernong grape, native to North Carolina, is large and luscious, and produces 
an excellent wine. The Catawba and Isabella grapes are also successfully raised, and origi- 
nated here. The famous Medoc Vineyard, established in 1835, ^^^ largest Scuppernong 
vineyard in the world, is at Medoc, in Halifax County, near the Piedmont Belt, and some 1,500 
to 2,000 feet above tide-water. The soil and climate of this immediate section is exception- 
ally adapted for the cultivation of the Scuppernong, the only known vine that has withstood 
the insect phylloxera, being of long life, and practically "fire-proof" Some vines are a foot 
in diameter. At this vineyard a crop failure is unknown, and the sales of the wines and 
brandies, averaging $40,000 a year, are made throughout the Union. These wines have 
been awarded several prizes. The property includes about 1,000 acres, lOO of which are 
in grapes, and 400 in a high state of cultivation ; and the wine-vaults, with a capacity of 
150,000 gallons, were constructed with special reference to the aging of the wines and 
their security against fire. This whole property is owned by the Medoc Vineyard Company, 
a corporation with a paid-in capital of $200,000, which bought it from the heirs of the 
late C. W. Garrett, who developed this notable vineyard. The Medoc farm is famous 
for its crops of tobacco, cotton, and corn, and forms one of the most delightful spots in 

North Carolina. 

The Mineral Resources of North Carolina are 
great, though as yet but imperfectly developed. The gold- 
bearmg region extends from Halifax to Cherokee County, 
\\ ith valuable placers and veins, especially in the midlands. 
The Gold Hill Mine, near Salisbury, has produced over 
fi2, 000,000 in bullion ; and the output of the State 
has exceeded $20,000,000. The old United- 
States Mint, at Charlotte, is now an assay ofiice. 
Silver -mines occur in the Salisbury region. 
North Carolina produces nearly half the smelted 
and rolled zinc of the Republic. Bituminous and 
SL mi-bituminous coal occurs in large deposits on 
Deep River. It is valuable for smelting and gas- 
making, but has been only slightly developed. 
The Dan-River coal-field also extends 32 miles 
into the State. Hematite and magi>etic iron-ores 
have been mined in the mountains for over a century, and are 
now used in the Bessemer furnaces of Pennsylvania. Copper 
occuis chiefly in the middle and west, and is mined south of 
the Balsam Range. Copperas, cobalt, plumbago, antimony, 
aisenic, nickel, lead and tin are also found in the hills. Much 
of the mica nsed in this country is mined in the mountains of 
North Carolina, in Mitchell, Macon and Yancey Counties. 




MAKING TAR. 



THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 653 

The largest existing mines of corundum (emery), much used in the arts, are in Macon 
County. White and rose-colored marble, fine gray granite, millstones, whetstones, grind- 
stones, potters' clay, fire-clay, talc, manganese, asbestos, and barytes, also occur. Soap- 
stone is quarried in Moore ; porphyry, near Jones Falls ; red sandstone, at Waynesborough, 



Phosphate rock occurs in 150 beds, 
wide, parallel to 




CHAPEL HILL : UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA 
— MEMORIAL HALL. 



Sanford and Egypt ; and gray sandstone at Durham. 

between the Neuse and South Carolina, in a belt from 15 to 20 miles 

the coast. It is valuable as a fertilizer. 

The Government includes a governor and six 
executive officers, elected by the people every four 
years ; the General Assembly, of 50 senators and 120 
representatives, elected and meeting every two years ; 
the elective Supreme Court of five justices, and 
Superior Court of 12 judges; and the county justices 
of the peace. The State House is a fine old granite 
building, with dome and colonnades, standing in a 
six-acre park in the centre of Raleigh. Among other 
Commonwealth structures are the Governor's Mansion, the Agricultural Building, the 
Supreme Court, and the State Geological Museum. The Penitentiary, at Raleigh, has 184 
convicts within its walls, and 1,300 working outside, mainly in the construction of railroads. 
The Western Insane Asylum, at Morganton, cost $450,000, and contains 420 patients ; the 
Asylum at Raleigh has 300 ; and the Eastern Asylum, near Goldsborough, has 200 colored 
patients. There are separate asylums at Raleigh for the white blind, deaf and dumb per- 
sons (135), and for the negroes (53). The Oxford Orphan Asylum, conducted by the 
Masons, receives a State grant. 

The National Cemetery at Salisbury contains the graves of 12, 126 Federal soldiers, who 
died here in captivity. The National Cemetery at New Berne has 3,254 graves. The 

National Cemetery at Wilmington has 2,291. 
Education was of slow growth in colonial 
^^^J&-' "^^^m^^^^l jV^ .1 T_oAs^^'-f North Carolina, and most of the youth of the 
' better classes attended the English universities, 

or had private tutors. After the great Scotch- 
Irish immigration, in 1736, the incoming Presby- 
terians founded numerous classical schools. For 
half a century, the leading educational forces in 
North Carolina came from Princeton College. Education is now backward, owing to the 
loss of the school-fund in the war; but 600,000 acres of public swamp-lands have been 
devoted to this purpose. W^hite teachers are drilled one month in each summer at the 
Teachers' Assembly, with a large new building at the sea-side summer-resort of Morehead 
City. The common schools were closed from 1865 to 1870, for lack of money ; and the Pea- 
body Fund was of aid in this crisis, and since. The State College of Agriculture and the 
Mechanic Arts was opened at Raleigh in 1880. 

The University of North Carolina was incorporated in 1 789 ; endowed with large tracts 
of Tennessee land; and opened in 1795, at Chapel Hill, 28 miles westward of Raleigh. 
When the Secession War broke out, it had 500 students ; and this was the only Southern 
university kept open throughout those terrible years. In 1868, Gov. David L. Swain, its 
President since 1835, was displaced, and a new faculty came into power; but the University 
closed its doors from 1S70 to 1875, having lost touch with the people. Ex- State-Treasurer 
Kemp P. Battle became President in 1876, and better days dawned on the venerable institu- 
tion. It has 17 instructors and 200 students, a library of 25,000 volumes, and valuable 
museums. The University campus includes 50 acres of fine old oaks and hickories, with 500 
acres of forest adjacent. Here stand the old east (1795) and west (1826) buildings and the 
new east (1889) and west (1859) buildings, and the south building (1814), used mainly as 




DAVIDSON COLLEGE. 



654 



KING'S HANDBOOK OP THE UNITED STATES. 



dormitories; Person Hall (1796), the chemical laboratory and industrial museum; Smith 
Hall (1852), with the University library and laboratories ; Gerrard Hall (1827), the chapel ; 
Gymnasium Hall (1835); and the University Memorial Hall (1885), a noble auditorium, 
on whose walls are tablets bearing the names of the University's eminent officers and 
graduates, and her sons slain in the Secession War. Among the students of the University 
were President James K. Polk, Vice-President Wm. R. King, Senators Thomas H. Benton, 
Zebulon M. Vance, Frank P. Blair, and hundreds of Southern governors, senators, cabinet 
officers, diplomats and divines. Over 4,000 North Carolinians have been educated here. 

Wake Forest College, a famous Baptist school, was opened in 1834, 16 miles from Raleigh, 
in an oak forest, and became a college four years later. It has dormitory, library, and 
laboratory buildings, and Wingate Memorial Hall. There are eleven professors and 225 
students; and the library contains 15,000 volumes.^ /Davidson College was founded by the 
Presbyterians in 1837, 23 miles north of Charlotte. It has 13 buildings, eight professors, 
and 120 students, with libraries of 12,000 volumes. Trinity College grew out of a Methodist 
academy of 1838, and has 120 students. The Catawba Valley is occupied by German 
Lutherans, as distinct in their language and customs as the Pennsylvania Dutch. This sect 
conducts North-Carolina, Concordia and Gaston Colleges. The most celebrated academy 

for boys is the Bingham School, founded in 1793, and now 
near Mebane, 50 miles west of Raleigh. It has 220 stu- 
dents, with a military organization under an officer de- 
tailed from the United-States army. 

The colored people have Shaw University, at Raleigh, 
with college, scientific, normal, theological, medical and 
industrial departments ; Biddle University, at Charlotte ; 
and other advanced institutions, in which over 2,500 
negro boys and girls are being educated, including some 
from Africa and the West Indies. There are colored 
theological schools at Raleigh (Episcopal and Baptist) 
and Charlotte (Presbyterian) ; and white schools at Con- 
over (Lutheran) and Trinity (Methodist-Episcopal South), 
with 270 students. The law schools for the whites are at Chapel Hill and Greensborough ; 
and a medical school for the colored people is at Raleigh. 

Chief Cities. — Raleigh is the pleasant capital city, on high ground near the centre of 
the State, with several good public buildings. Wilmington, on the Cape-Fear, is the 
metropolis of the State, and its chief port, with a large foreign commerce, and steamship 
lines to New York, Philadelphia and Baltimore. Here is the headquarters of the At- 
lantic Coast Line. It is a leading market for naval stores. New Berne has a large trade 
in shipping early vegetables and naval stores to the North, with steamship lines to Nor- 
folk, Baltimore and New York. Asheville and Charlotte are growing inland cities. Dur- 
ham is one of the greatest tobacco-manufacturing points in the world, with a dozen facto- 
ries and snuff-mills, tobacco-cure works, tobacco-dust-fertilizer mills, and a cotton-mill 
whose product is made into tobacco bags. One company makes 250,000,000 cigarettes a year. 
Manufacturing has developed largely since 18S0, reaching $25,000,000 a year, includ- 
ing cotton goods, $3,000,000; tobacco, $2,000,000; and turpentine and tar, $2,000,000. 

Railroads began with the Wilmington & Weldon and the Raleigh and Gaston lines, in 
1843, '^li^ Charlotte & Columbia line dating from 1852. The State is now served by severd 
important and efficient routes, reaching the sea-board at Edenton, New Berne, Beaufort and 
Wilmington, and crossing the Alleghany Mountains by the French-Broad Valley. The 
great through route of the Atlantic Coast Line runs down across the Carolinas, on its way 
between New York and Florida ; and is the avenue of a continually increasing volume of 
travel, favored by the most sumptuous accommodations. Goldsborough, Charlotte, and 
Greensborough are important railway centres. 




«OUNT MITCHELL. 




STATISTICS. 



H15T0RY. 

North Dakota came to 

the United States as a part 

of the French Province of 

Louisiana, bought from Na- 
poleon in 1803. It belonged 

to the District of Louisiana 

m 1804 ; to the Territory of 

Louisiana in 1805 ; and to 

the Territory of Missouri in 
1812. In 1S34 the section of North Dakota east of the Mis- 
souri and White-Earth Rivers became a part of Michigan 
Territory, and the rest lay in the Indian Country. Two 
years later, the Michigan district of North Dakota became . 
a part of Wisconsin Territory, and after another two years 
it was handed over to Iowa Territory, in which it remained 
after the State of Iowa entered the Republic. In 1849 it 
was joined to Minnesota Territory. The western section 
became a part of Nebraska Territory in 1854. At the erec- 
tion of Minnesota into a State, the region west of it, to the 
Missouri and White-Earth Rivers, became the Territory of 
Minnesota. In 186 1 this last political division became ob- 
solete, and the Territory of Dakota was formed, including 
North and South Dakota, and large parts of Montana and 
Wyoming. The last two were set apart to Idaho in 1863, 
and in part retroceded in 1864. In 1868 and 1873 these 
divisions were again taken away, and Dakota remained. 

For many years much of this region was known as the 
Mandan Country, from the tribe of Indians dwelling near 
the site of Bismarck. The Sioux, or Dakotas, checked at 
some remote period in their eastward march by the fiery 
Algonquins, became paramount in this domain. The first 
recorded settlement in North Dakota was made by a French 
trader, in 1780, at Pembina. Here also Lord Selkirk's 
Scottish colony, planted under a grant from the Hudson- 
Bay Company, dwelt from 181 2 to 1823, when it was found to be on American soil, and 
moved northward into Manitoba. Up to 1875 there were fewer than 1,000 whites in all 
North' Dakota, but after that time a strong flood of immigration set in, favored by the 



Settled at Pembina. 

Settled in 1780 

Founded by . French Canadians. 
Admitted to the U, S., Nov. 3, 1889 
Population in 1880, . . . 36,909 

White 182,123 

Colored, 596 

American-born, .... 101,258 

Males 101,590 

Females, 81,129 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), . , 182,719 

Population to the square mile, 2.58 

Voting Population (i8go), . 55,959 

Vote for Harrison (1892}, 17,519 

Vote for Weaver (1892), 17,700 

Vote for Bidwell (1892), . Bgg 

Net State Debt $703,769 

Assessed Property, . . .«;S8,203,o5J 
Area (square miles), . . . 70,795 
U. S. Representatives, . . I 

Militia (Disciplined), . . . SA'i 

Counties, 43 

Post-Ofiices 537 

Railroads (miles) 2,528 

Manufactured (yearly), $5,128,107 

Operatives, 1,847 

Yearly Wages, .... $1,002,881 
Farm Land (in acres), . 7,660,333 
Farm Land (assessed 

valuation), .... $48,527,869 
Farm Products (yearly) $21,264,938 
Public Schools, Average. 
Daily Attendance, . . . 32,305 

Newspapers, 139 

Latitude 46° to 49° N. 

Longitude, . 96° 30' to 104° 5' W. 
Temperature, .... 49° to 107° 
Mean Temperature(l!ismarck), 39.4° 

TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Fargo 5,664 

Grand Forks, 4,979 

Jamestown, 2,296 

Bismarck, 2, t86 

Grafton 1.594 

Wahpeton, ... . 1,510 

Mandan 1.328 

Valley City, 1,089 

Lisbon, 933 

Devil's Lake, . 846 



6s6 



A'liVG'S HANDBOOK^ OF THE UNITED STATES. 




TURTLE MOUNTAINS A SOD HOUSE 



advance of the railways. The centres of Dakota's popula- 
tion, Fargo and Bismarck in the north, and Yankton in the 
south, were separated by almost impassable and uninhabited 
areas, with no railway intercommunication. This diversity of 
interests led to sharp contests between the two sections, and 
in the end resulted in their separation. Among the people 
of North Dakota are many thousands of Americanized Cana- 
dians, crossing from Manitoba in search of happier condi- 
tions of life. There are also great numbers of Scandinavians and Germans, and small 
colonies of Russian Mennonites, Polish Jews, Roumelian Turks and Icelanders. 

The Name Dakota (pronounced Dah-ko-ta/i) means "Allied," or joined together in 
friendly compact, and was (and is) applied to themselves by the great Indian nation popu- 
larly known as the Sioux. Their enemies, the Ojibways, called them Nadowaysionx, " The 
Foemen," and the early French traders caught the last syllable of this word, and always 
spoke of them as Sioux. North Dakota is sometimes spoken of as The Sioux State, or 
the Land of the Dakotas. 

The Arms of North Dakota bear a tree, with a half-circle of 42 stars in its foliage, 
and wheat-sheaves and farm-tools below, and on one side an Indian on horseback pursuing 
a buffalo towards the setting sun. The motto is Liberty and Union, Now and For- 
ever, One and Inseparable. 

The Governors of Dakota Territory were ; William Jaynes, 1861-3 ; Newton Edmunds, 
1863-6; Andrew). Faulk, 1866-9; John A. Burbank, 1869-74; 
John L. Pennington, 1874-8; Wm. A. Howard, 1878-80 ; N. 
G. Ordway, 1880-4; Gilbert A. Pierce, 1884-7; Louis K. 
Church, 1887-9; Arthur C. Mellette, 1889. State governors : 
John Miller, 1890; and A. H. Burke, 1891-3. 

Descriptive. — The sluggish, narrow and devious Red River 
forms almost the entire eastern boundary, and is traversed by 
steamboats and bordered by railways. Vast quantities of pine- 
logs are floated down from the Otter-Tail and Red-Lake piner- 
ies to the saw-mills at Grand Forks. This region is the garden 
of the State, and nearly always produces rich harvests, even when some other localities are 
injured by droughts. Several of the bonanza wheat-farms of the Red-River Valley are from 
5,000 to 15,000 acres each in area, with a large number above 1,000 acres. The famous 
Dalrymple farm covers 75,000 acres ; and the domains of the Grandins are even more ex- 
tensive. The most thorough system governs these estates ; and their large forces of men are 
organized into divisions, each with its superintendent and foreman and buildings, and all 
reporting to a general manager. With gang-plows, seeders, self-binding harvesters, steam- 
threshers and other modern implements, the cost of raising wheat has been reduced to 35 
cents a bushel. The wheat of North Dakota is unexcelled in quality, and has been culti- 
vated on a broad and cheap scale. The Red-River region is a vast level deposit of 10,000 
square miles of the richest black loam, from two to six feet deep, broken only by occasional 
~ " small "slews" (sloughs), and dotted with little 

hamlets. Three fourths of this precious lake- 
basin lies in North Dakota, forming six counties, 
and containing half of the wealth of the State. 
The Sheyenne and James Valleys are rolling 
prairies of brown loam, bounded by low hills, 
and dotted with small ponds. West of the Red 
River the soil is gently rolling, somewhat sandy, 
'^~^;^wfSsgS^<;^&^--^''^'^ ^^^^ and more dry. TheCoteaudes Prairies begins near 
^fsMARCK ^NORTHERN PACIFIC BRIDGE. the Jamcs Rlvcr, and runs over into Minnesota, 




FARGO 
CASS-COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 




THE STATE OF NORTH DAKOTA. 



657 




PYRAMID PARK 
THE BAD LANDS OF THE LITTLE MISSOURI. 



with some timber and vegetation, and many alkaline pools. It is 200 miles long, from 15 
to 20 miles wide, and from 1,000 to 2,000 feet above the sea. 

The Plateau du Coteau du Missouri is a great grassy table-land entering the vState from 
Manitoba, and running southward between the Missouri and James Rivers, beginning at 
2,000 feet above the sea, and falling away on the south. It is treeless and almost without 
large vegetation, except along the streams. Masses of bowlders crown the myriads of 
strange-shaped hills and ridges, which give the Coteau the appearance of a stormy sea 
changed to soil when at its wildest fury. The crests are barren, but the slopes of good 
brown loam are valuable for wheat or for grazing. The Coteau covers 30,000 square miles, 
and is sparsely settled. It follows around the great bend of the Missouri, 400 miles long 
and So miles wide, and as seen from the distant prairies forms a deep blue line upon the 
horizon. The Missouri slope sinks away in waves 
of rich soil from the crest of the Coteau to the 
level of the great river, 250 feet below. The 
country west of the Missouri slope is diversified 
by strange conical buttes, capped with sandstone, 
grassy hills, and high bluffs, broken by open veins 
of brown coal. But few settlers have moved into 
this region. 

The Bad Lands of the Little Missouri cover 
an area 50 miles long and 30 miles wide, with 
huge domes and pyramids, spires and towers, and 
statues of vividly colored clays and rocks, rising 
by thousands from the grassy glens, amid which, and sheltered by these grotesque buttes, 
myriads of cattle and sheep graze all the year round. Great coal-beds have been burning 
here for centuries, turning the clay hills into terra-cotta ; and in places the fires still exist. 
Medora is the metropolis of this weird region. The sinister title of this country is translated 
from a part of the old French name for it, Mauvaises Terres pour Traverser, which referred 
not to the quality of the soil, but to the difficulty of travelling through this fantastic land. 

Devil's Lake, which the Indians called Mittnewaukan (Spirit Water) lies in the north, 
and is 55 miles long, with an extreme width of six miles. The well-wooded and gently 
sloping shores extend for 280 miles, with many a fine promontory, enshrining weird old 
Sioux legends. A steamboat makes daily trips from the prosperous new grain and live-stock 
city of Devil's Lake to Minnewaukan and the Government post of Fort Totten, crossing an 
inland sea as green and about one fifth as salt as the ocean, and without an outlet. Stump 
Lake winds for 13 miles between abrupt and wooded shores. There are many other lakes 
in the north and east ; and lonely buttes rise high over the unpopulated plains. The 
swirling and turbulent Missouri River bends around through a great part of the State, 
affording steamboat navigation for 1, 200 miles above Bismarck, to Fort Benton, and also 
downward to the Mississippi. The river-boats carry from 60 to 200 tons of freight each, 
and draw from two to four feet of water. They extricate themselves from the numberless 
sand-bars by climbing up on poles, ingeniously arranged for the purpose. 

The Turtle Mountains come in on the north from Manitoba, and extend over 800 square 

miles, descending to the south in gentle 
rolls, and largely covered with dense for- 
ests of oaks, elms and birches, cut by ra- 
vines and sparkling streams, and haunted 
by great game. The chief summits, Butte 
St. Paul and Bear Butte, rise 2,300 feet 
above the sea. The broad black-loamed 
surrounding prairie is inhabited by Cana- 
FOHT T(jTTe>i AND pEvu LAt dians and half-breeds, who raise good 





WHEAT-RAISING : PREPARING FOR PLANTING. 




658 A'AVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

crops of grain. The entire western part of the 
State, including nearly half of its area, is under- 
laid with inexhaustible deposits of lignite, or 
soft brown coal, valuable for domestic use and 
for gas-making. The mines at Dickinson and 
Burlington, Minot and Sims ship yearly many 
thousand tons, and every ranchman has his own 
little surface mine, for home use. The coal area 
extends from the Turtle Mountains to the Black 
Hills, the chief developments being along the Northern Pacific Railroad at Bismarck. 

Farming. — The Dakotas lead all the States in the quantity of wheat produced, raising 
yearly 60,000,000 bushels of "No. i Hard." The quality of the wheat is unrivalled. It 
is dry, and rich in albuminoids, and will make more bread — and more nourishing bread — 
to the bushel, than any other wheat. The Department of Agriculture declares that it has 
"a flavor richer than any other." Winter wheat is not raised, the crops including only the 
hard spring varieties. This immense product rules the markets of the world. It commands 

higher prices than any other wheat, and is raised 
at less expense, from cheap land. The cost of 
transportation from Dakota to Buffalo is but 15 
cents a bushel, using the water-route from Du- 
luth. The flouring-mills of North Dakota ship 
their surplus product to London, where their 
agent secures for it a higher price than is given for any other grade of flour. The climate 
and soil are well adapted to raising corn and oats, barley and rye, and the best of potatoes. 
The nutritious grasses formerly nourished many millions of buffalo. About 7,000 tons of 
buffalo-bones, representing 260,000 animals, 
have been shipped from Minot, and 30 times 
that number from the other railway stations. 
The State now has nearly 400, 000 sheep. There 
is naturally very little timber, except along the 
rivers, but thousands of farmers have been plant- 
ing groves and orchards, and the prairies are now 
diversified with growing forests. In the two Dakotas 50,000,000 trees have been planted. 
In 1891 North Dakota yielded 65,000,000 bushels of wheat, and 18,000,000 of oats. 

The Climate is influenced by the Chinook winds, from the Pacific, and the entire State 
lies below the line of 50° of mean yearly temperature. The summers have hot days and 
cool nights, tempered by prairie breezes ; and the winters are clear, crisp ami sunny, with 
little snow, but occasional fierce northern blizzards. 

Government. — The State Capitol (now only partly built) is a substantial brick edifice 
on a commanding elevation near Bismarck, and contains the State Library and historical 
collections. The National Guard includes the First Regiment of Infantry (seven companies 
and a band), and a battery and a troop of cavalry. The Asylum for the Insane, at James- 
town, cost $500,000, and includes also the Institute for the Feeble-Minded. The Deaf and 
Dumb Asylum is at Devil's Lake ; the Blind Asylum, in Pembina County ; and the Soldiers' 
Home, at Lisbon. The Penitentiary is at Bismarck ; and the Reform School, at Mandan. 

The United-States military posts are Forts 
Abraham Lincoln, Buford, Totten, Pembina 
and Yates, occupied by 700 soldiers. The In- 
dian reservations are at Devil's Lake, with 1,000 
Cut-Head Sioux; Turtle Mountain, with 1,400 
Chippewas and half-breeds ; Fort Berthold, with 
wHEAT-RAisiNc, : THRESHING. 5°° Cros Vcntrcs, 450 Arickarees and 250 




WHEAT-RAISING t GATHERING THE SHEAVES. 




THE STATE OF NORTH DAKOTA. 



659 




NEAR CASSELTON 




Mandans ; and part of the Standing-Rock 
Sioux Reservation. Religious, educational 
and industrial agencies are continually at 
work among these savages, endeavoring 
to change them into peaceful and indus- 
trious farmers. 

Education. — The public-schools have 
2,000 teachers, and cost $500,000 a year. 
The value of the school-property is about 
$1,300,000. The University of North 
Dakota, opened near Grand Forks in 1S84, 
provides free tuition in the arts and sciences 
for young people of the State. The cost of a high education is probably less than at any 
similar institution in the world. The School of Mines is attached to this institution. 
The University has 36 students, besides 180 in the normal and preparatory departments. 
The Congregationalists have a college at Fargo ; the Presbyterians, at Jamestown ; the 
Baptists, at Tower City ; and there are also Lutheran and Methodist colleges. The normal 
schools are at Valley City and Mayville ; the Scientific School, at Wahpeton ; the School 
of Forestry ; the Agricultural College at Fargo ; and the Industrial School at EUendale. 

Chief Cities. — Bismarck, the capital, slopes from the low encircling hills down to the 
broad brown Missouri, which is here crossed by the Northern Pacific Railroad, on a million- 
dollar steel bridge ; and the Great Northern Railway 
also crosses here. It has a valuable steamboat com- 
r;ji^ merce, and is the headquarters of the Missouri-River 
L* Transportation Company and the northern terminus 
of the Milwaukee Railway system. Bismarck began 
in 1872, in a region which is even yet thinly settled. 
Mandan, on the other side of the river, has railway shops and elevators. Fargo, where the 
Northern Pacific crosses the Red River, is one of the chief financial and commercial cities 
of North Dakota, with a variety of profitable manufactures. 

Farther down the Red River are the busy flour and lumber mills and the public build- 
ings of Grand Forks, where the Great Northern Railway crosses the stream. The Red-Lake 
River and the Red River here form the "Grand Forks," once so puzzling to the voyageurs. 
Pembina, on the Red River, and close to the Manitoba frontier, was settled by Lord Sel- 
kirk's Scottish colonists, after they had been expelled from Winnipeg by the French-Cana- 
dians. This region is mostly occupied by Canadians, Scotch and French half-breeds, 
Norwegians and Icelanders, and produces in its "nine months winter and three months late- 
in-the-fall" copious crops of wheat." Jamestown is in the wonderful artesian belt of the 
James-River valley, at the intersection of several railways, and with a large trade. Valley 
City, Devil's Lake, Casselton, Wahpeton, Lisbon and La Moure are important towns. 
Dazey is named for Charles Turner Dazey, the poet. 

The active immigration induced by the Canadian Pacific Railway into Manitoba since 
1883-4 resulted fortunately for the neighboring American State. The immigrants found 
that the cost of living was very high, and therefore thousands of them drifted southward 
across the border, where more favorable con- 
ditions prevailed, and took out papers as 
citizens of the United States. There is a 
strong general sentiment in favor of recip- 
rocity of trade between North Dakota, 
Minnesota and Manitoba. 

The Railway System of North Dakota 
began in 1872, when the Northern Pacific bismarck : the capital of north dakota. 



GRAND FORKS : UNIVERSITY OF NORTH DAKOTA. 




66o 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



line crossed the Red River of the North. This route now traverses the entire State, from 
east to west, nearly on the 47th parallel ; and has several branches diverging on either side. 
The Great Northern Railway crosses the State near the 48th parallel, from Grand Forks to 
Devil's Lake, and thence to Fort Buford, on the Upper Missouri and the Montana frontier. 
It has lines following the American section of the famous Red-River Valley, on both the 
eastern and western sides ; and branches running into the Turtle-Mountain country, and in 
various other directions. The Chicago, Milwaukee & St. -Paul system controls several lines 
in the southeast. Steamboats ply on the Red River of the North, from Grand Forks, 
Fargo, and other points down to Winnipeg and the towns of Manitoba. The steamboats 
on the Missouri River have a season of navigation lasting for eight months every year. 

The transformation of North Dakota from a desolation, occupied only by Indians and 
buffalo, to an entLr|)rising modern State, covered with farms and dotted with villages, has 

rendered necessary a large transference of capital 
from eastern sources. From this circumstance, 
several active financial institutions have arisen, 
inside the frontiers of the new State ; and promi- 
nent among these is the Mortgage Bank and In- 
vestment Company, established at Fargo in 18S6, 
and incorporated in 1887. This corporation pays 
liberal dividends, usually amounting to at least ten 
per cent, a year, and paid quarterly by draft on New 
York. There are more than 1,000 shareholders, 
including professional and business men in all 
parts of the country. The paid-in capital is over 
$300,000, with a growing surplus and increasing deposits. The bank has from its founda- 
tion had E. Ashley Mears as president, and William B. Mears as cashier. It jointly owns and 
occupies with the National Bank of North Dakota, the handsomest bank building in the State. 




FARGO : MORTGAGE BANK AND INVESTMENT CO. 



"Dakota in length and breadth, in population, in area, in wealth and in progress stands 
unexampled in the annals of mankind for material, political, and, I may say, intellectual and 
spiritual, advancement. Her surface is nearly all arable land. It is easily tilled and miracu- 
lously productive. There is no necessity to clear trees and remove stumps. The old forts. 
Sitting Bull, and all the wilderness of early days, have given way to cities and towns, and 
railroads, and farms ; and a population larger than that of many States, looms up in 
majestic proportions, with all the paraphernalia of government, and all the refinement of 
Christian civilization. This energetic and hopeful people have in their veins the vigorous 
blood of many races. They have inherited the material, intellectual and moral triumph of 
the old and new worlds and their civilizations. They'have settled upon soil which has no 
rival in richness and no peer in production." — Hon. S. S. Cox. 

"A land of majestic dimensions, of fruit-trees and vineyards, of lowing kine and golden 
grain ; under the feet a carpet of flowers bespangled with gold-dust, and the most crystalline 
of heavens bending above. 
She has a mighty interest 
in the destiny of the Re- 
public, and in the achieve- 
ment of that destiny she 
should bear no ignoble 
share. ... In new- 
world advancement, hers 
is, and should be, a glori- 
ous mission, a sublime 

work. V-OL. DONAN. FARGO, ON THE RED RIVER OF THE NORTH, 






S^^^^'ljuzi^^^^Ar^^^^^i^ 



The valley of the Ohio 

was in very remote days 

occupied by an active and 

widely scattered race, whose 

remains show that in many 

respects they were more 

advanced than the modern 

Indians. They farmed in a 

large way ; opened mines, 

and wrought in metals; and 
had rather complex villages, with permanent fortifications. 
Otherwise they differed but little from the Indians. The 
mounds and ancient works at Circleville, Marietta and 
many other places, commemorate this mysterious vanished 
race. In Adams County is the great Serpent Mound, an 
embankment in the form of a winding snake many rods in 
length. This wonderful memorial of antiquity, with the 
surrounding land, belongs to Harvard University. 

After the Mound-builders vanished (whether by de- 
struction or amalgamation), the Ohio tribes, the Wyan- 
dots, Shawnees and others, suffered from the appalling 
ferocity of the Iroquois Confederacy, whose warriors used 
to descend the river from time to time, and carry murder 
and rapine among its people. The hostile and warlike Iro- 
quois shut out the French explorers from the Erie and Ohio 
Valleys, and compelled them to visit the far West by the 
Ottawa River and Georgian Bay. But in 1669 Joliet, re- 
turning from his explorations, became the first white man 
to see and travel on Lake Erie, and thus Ohio became, by 
right of discovery, a part of New France, that vast do- 
main extending from Labrador to the Mississippi River, 
and covering also much of the Carolinas and Georgia. 
Northern Ohio was occupied as early as 1680 by French 
fur-traders, sent out by Governor-General Frontenac, and 

with their first station near Maumee City, followed by others at Sandusky and Cuyahoga. 
In 1749 the Marquis de la Gallisonifere warned all English settlers out of Ohio, and Major 
Celeron formally took possession in the name of Louis XV., burying inscribed leaden 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at Marietta. 

Settled in 1788 

Founded by , . New Englanders. 
Admitted as a State, . . . 1802 

Population in i860, . . . 2,339, mi 

In 1870 2,66i;,26o 

In 1880, 3,198,062 

White, 3,117,920 

Colored 80,142 

American-born, . . . 2,803,119 
Foreign-born, .... 394,943 

Males 1,613,936 

Females 1,584,126 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), . 3,672,316 
Population to the square mile, 78.5 
Voting Population, . . . 826,577 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 416,054 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 396,455 
Net State Debt, . . . S7.014.767 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . . Si. 778,000,000 
Area (square miles), .... 41,060 
U. S. Representatives (in 1893), 21 
Militia (IJisciplined), . , 5,iio 

Counties, 88 

Post-offices, 3,166 

Railroads (miles), .... 7,912 

Vessels, 480 

Tonnage, 226,540 

Manufactures (j'early), $348,305,690 

Operatives, :83,6og 

Yearly Wages, . . $62,103,800 
Farm Land (in acres), . 24,529,226 
Farm-Land Values, Si'l27,497,353 
Farm Products (yearly) $ 1 56,777, 152 
Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 530,492 

Newspapers, 1.139 

Latitude, . . . 38°23' to 4i°58' N. 
Longitude, . . So^si' to84''48'W. 
Temperature, . . . — 28° to 104" 
Mean Temperature (Columbus), 53° 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). 

Cincinnati 296,908 

Cleveland 261,353 

Columbus, 88,150 

Toledo 81,434 

Dayton, 61,220 

Youngstown 33,220 

Springfield, 31.895 

Akron, 27,601 

Canton, 26,189 

Zanesville, 2i,oog 



662 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MARIETTA . MARIETTA COLLEGE. 



same year 



plates along the Allegheny and Ohio Rivers. The first 
important American advance toward Ohio came from 
a singular quarter, having been achieved by Carolinian 
traders, descending the Tennessee and Cumberland 
Rivers, as early as 1682. Forty years later, after the 
Delawares and Shawnees had been driven westward 
from the Lehigh Valley, swarms of Pennsylvanian 
traders and blacksmiths crossed the Allegheny Mount- 
ains to their villages. Among the white people in Ohio 
before settlement began were many refugees, renegades, 
deserters and captives, who had been adopted into the native tribes. There were also a few 
singular hermits, like the one named Johnny Appleseed, a quaint Swedenborgian recluse, who 
rambled alone on foot over a great part of Ohio, with a bag of apple-seeds, planting orchards 
wherever he could find or clear a favoring place. Among the chief actors in the Ohio drama 
for many years appeared French officers, Virginian and Pennsylvanian emissaries and traders, 
Miami and Delaware chieftains, and other picturesque characters. The King of England in 
1763, after the annexation of French America, proclaimed Ohio and the new conquest beyond 
to be outside of all existing provinces, and "under the king's sovereignty, protection and do- 
minion, for the use of the Indians." But it was necessary for Col. Bouquet to march from 
Pittsburgh to the Muskingum, with parts of the 42d (Highlanders) and 60th British regiments 
and 700 Provincials, and compel the savages to give up 206 white captives. In 1774 the Earl 
of Dunmore led an army of Virginians into the Scioto Valley ; and in the 
Ohio was annexed to the Province of Quebec. During one of the 
gloomiest periods of the Revolution, an American general asked what ~ 
should be done if the king's troops, aided by the rumored Russian 
alliance, should drive the Continental army from the States. And 
Washington answered : "We will retire to the valley of the Ohio, 
and there we will be free." Virginia claimed all of Ohio (as well 
as of Indiana and Illinois), according to her charter given by King 
James I. in 1609; and Connecticut claimed Ohio north of 41°, 
by Charles II. 's charter of 1662. These ancient claims by conquest and royal charter were 
ceded to the United States. The Western Reserve, of 3,666,921 acres, extending for 120 
miles west of Pennsylvania, and north of 41°, was retained by Connecticut until 1 792-5, 
when she granted 500,000 acres (the Firelands) to her people whose homes had been burned 
by invading armies in the Revolution ; and alienated the remainder for a school-fund. In 
1800 she surrendered all jurisdictional rights. Virginia reserved from her cession 3,709,848 
acres between the Ohio, Scioto and Miami Rivers, and below, for military bounty lands ; and 
in 1783 also relinquished her jurisdiction. New York claimed Ohio as hers, by virtue of its 
ancient conquest by her Iroquois tribes, but yielded this right to the General Government. 

The "pioneers," as those were called who came to the Northwest after the Territorial 
and State Governments had been established, seem to have been ignorant that any white 
people had preceded them, and had many traditions and controversies as to the "first white 

child" born in the territory. How much they were mis- 
taken appears from the references which have already been 
made to the French and Pennsylvanian traders and the cap- 
tives who had intermarried and amalgamated with them 
and the Indian tribes, before the middle of the last century. 
But besides these, the missionaries had founded their mis- 
sion villages on the upper Muskingum prior to the Revo- 
lutionary War, and well deserve to be remembered and 
honored as the "Pilgrims of Ohio." The ruthless catas- 

POINT PLEASANT : , , , • i ., J ,. J 1 i 

BIRTHPLACE OF u, 8. GRANT. trophcs by which they were destroyed also serve to 




CLEVELAND: LIGHTHOUSE. 




THE ST A TE OF OHIO. 



663 







the Lick- 
Opposite 
ing title 
Sy m mes 
C i n c i n - 
atthelat- 
the head- 



remind us that about the time of the Revolutionary War the perpetrators, 
a considerable white population of speculators and squatters, had pos- 
sessed themselves of the best lands and the salt springs in the southeastern 
quarter of Ohio, and in defiance of the civil and military authorities of 
the United States had actually organized themselves into a sort of local 
government. These, associated with a similar population of outlaws 
from the Virginia side of the Ohio River, were the most savage toes of the 
Moravian missions. 

The first permanent settlement came from the Ohio Company, a band 
of New-England veterans of the Revolutionary War, who paid the Gov- statue of gen. moses 
ernment $1,000,000 in Continental scrip for 1,500,000 acres on the Ohio, cleaveuand. 
between the Muskingum and the Hocking. In 1788, Gen. Rufus Putnam founded the 
fortified town of Marietta (named for Marie Antoinette), at the mouth of the Muskingum. 
High up on the Youghiogheny River, in Pennsylvania, these New-England men built the 
galley Mayflozvcr, with a heavy plank-roof, to resist Indian rifle-balls. And thus the new 
pilgrims of the West floated down the Yough, the Allegheny and the Ohio, to' their future 
homes. In 17S8 John Cleves Symmes applied for 1,000,000 acres along the Ohio, between 
the two Miamis ; and here a town arose in 1788, bearing the name of Losantiville (Z for 
ing River; os, "mouth"; anti, "opposite"; ville, "city," or "The City 
the Mouth of the Licking River"). Gov. St. Clair replaced this amaz- 
with the name Cincinnati, in honor of the military Order of the Cincinnati. 
City arose nearly at the same time, at North Bend, and hotly rivalled 
nati, until the United-States garrison of Fort W^ashington was established 
ter town, and gave it the lead. At Marietta Gen. St. Clair set up 
quarters of the Northwest Territory, in 1 788, and founded the first civil 
government west of the Alleghanies. The Territory North- 
i^K '■' west of the River Ohio included Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, 
,^-, W^isconsin and Minnesota east of the Mississippi. The re- 
f'-^''': markable Ordinance of 1787, creating this government, in- 
cluded the clause : "There shall be neither slavery nor invol- 
untary servitude in said territory, otherwise than in punish- 
ment of crimes, whereof the party shall have been duly 
convicted." This enactment secured that personal liberty 
which afterwards spread over the entire Republic. In 1800 
the Northwest Territory was cut down to the present area of Ohio and eastern Michigan ; 
and in 1803 it lost the Michigan part, and became a State, to which the Toledo region was 
annexed in 1836, after a bitter disputation with Michigan. 

For many years the Indians of Ohio endeavored to check the white invaders by mur- 
derous forays and massacres. The country between the Miamis won the perilous name of 
"The Miami Slaughter-pen." The lake shore remained unoccupied, because of the hostile 
Englishmen and Indians, until 1796, when Moses Cleaveland and 52 Connecticut people 
founded Cleveland. In 1790 Gen. Harmar marched against the Indians with 1,450 soldiers, 
and suflTered a reverse. A year later Gen. St. Clair 
led 2,000 troops into interior Ohio, and met with 
an appalling defeat. In 1794 Gen. Wayne ad- 
vanced with the famous Legion of the United 
States, and crushed the Indian power forever, at 
the battle of the Maumee. After this blow the 
Indian nations signed the treaty of Greenville, 
ceding to the Republic nearly all Ohio, besides 
parts of Indiana and Michigan, and they never 
afterward violated the limits thus fixed. New put-in-bav and lake erie. 







CLEVELAND : SOLDIERS' MONUMENT. 




664 



A^mC'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CLEVELAND . THE POST-OFFICE. 



lines of towns sprang up in the interior, thus relieved 
from the apprehension of savage hostilities. Gen. Day- 
Ion founded Dayton in 1796; and in the same year anti- 
slavery Kentuckians established Chillicothe, the capital of 
"New Virginia." Then also the British garrisons evacu- 
^^^|_ ated northwestern Ohio ; and the last buffalo was killed 
in the Hocking valley. Ebenezer Zane of Wheeling 
founded Zanesville in 1799. The Firelands were surveyed 
and opened for colonization by Taylor Sherman of Connecticut, grandfather of William 
Tecumseh and John Sherman. Within a few years Marietta built at her ship-yards a score 
of sea-going vessels, and sent them to foreign ports, down the Ohio and Mississippi, and 
out over the Atlantic. Great fleets of flat-boats and keel-boats carried the produce of the 
infant State to New Orleans, the keel-boats returning with cargoes of foreign goods. In 
181 1 the first steamboat, the Orleans, descended the Ohio, from Pittsburgh, many of the 
rustics supposing that it was a comet, and others fleeing to the hills, with the cry : "The 
British are coming!" In 1810 the steamboat Walk-in-the- Water h&gM\ the vast steam- 
navigation of the lakes, traversing Lake Erie westward from Buffalo. 

The early history of Ohio abounds in interesting episodes, like the hideous massacre of 
the Moravian Indians, at Gnadenhiitten, by American border-ruffians, in 1 782 ; the vast 
and wide-spread conspiracies of chieftains like Pontiac and Tecumseh ; the Spanish in- 
trigues to gain possession of the Ohio Valley ; the obscure 
plot of Aaron Burr, whose fleet for the conquest of the 
Southwest was built at Marietta ; and the establishment of 
the Mormon Church at Kirtland, where Brigham Young 
entered its apostolate. But the most arduous struggles of 
the pioneers were not with Indians or fanatics, but with the 
forests and the bad roads. The houses were log-huts of a 
single room, with earthen floors, windows of greased paper, 
and chinks daubed with clay ; food of ash-cakes and hoe- 
cakes, dodgers and pones ; furniture hewn from beech and 
poplar, with bear-skin beds and buckeye bowls and plat- 
ters ; and clothing from deer-skins, tow-linen and jeans, dyed with walnut and butternut. 
The chief pastimes were bear-hunts and sugar-camps, militia-musters and quarter-races, 
shooting-matches and quilting-parties, weddings and house-warmings, camp-meetings and 
travelling museums. The itinerant school-masters and circuit-riding preachers of those 
arduous days laid the foundation of the cultivation and religion of the modern State. 

When the War of 181 2 broke out, Ohio sent promptly into the field Mc Arthur's regi- 
ment from the Scioto, Findlay's from the Miami, and Lewis Cass's from the Muskingum. 
Gen. Hull's ill-fated army marched from Urbana to the Maumee, fortifying Kenton and 
Findlay, After Detroit fell the British invaded Ohio, and were 
gallantly repulsed at Fort Meigs, on the Maumee, and Fort Cro- 
ghan (now Fremont). At the outbreak of the late civil war 
60,000 Ohioans volunteered, and Gen. McClellan received com- 
mand of the State troops. Two regiments went to Washington, 
and McClellan took ten regiments and drove the south- 
erners from West Virginia. At the end of 1863 the 
State had 200,000 soldiers in the field, and retained 
also the organized Ohio Militia of 168,000 men, and 
the armed and disciplined Ohio Volunteer Militia 
of 44,000. In the critical time of 1864, at 16 days' 
notice, Ohio sent 40 new regiments into the field. 
CINCINNATI : POST-OFFICE. The troops called for aggregated 306,322, and the 




111 If? If 

SPRINGFIELD : POST-OFFICE. 





LIMA : COURT-HOUSE. 



THE STA TE OF OHIO. 665 

State actually furnished 319,659, or more than one tenth of the National armies. 25,000 
died in the service and 40,000 were wounded. Ohio had 30 regiments at Vicksburg, 39 
in the Army of the Cumberland, 1 1 in Sheridan's Shenandoah campaigns, ^ 34 w i t h 

Thomas at Nashville, 45 with Sherman in the Carolinas, 43 at the Jfk storming 
of Mission Ridge, and 13 at Gettysburg. Among the gen- 
erals of Ohio birth or training, were Grant, Sherman, 
Sheridan, ' McPherson, Buell, Rosecrans, Gilmore, Mc- 
Dowell and Cox. When Kirby Smith's Confederate army 
menaced Cincinnati, in 1862, more than 15,000 "squirrel- 
hunters" from rural Ohio poured into that city, without 
uniforms or organization, and armed with their own old- 
fashioned rifles. Nearly a year later, John Morgan's Con- 
federate cavalry rode across 15 counties of southern Ohio, 
galled by the militia, pursued by National troops, and finally captured. 

The Name Oheo means "How Beautiful ! " and was applied by the Senecasof Lake Erie 
to the combined river Allegheny-Ohio. The Wyandots called it Ohee-znh, "the grand." 
The French explorers retained the Iroquois name, spelling it Oyo, and translating it, liter- 
ally, La Belle Riviere, "The Beautiful River." A popular name for Ohio is The Buckeye 
State, in recognition of the multitudes of buckeye trees (^Aescnlus flava ox glabra) found 
within its borders. The nuts of this tree resemble a buck's eye. The 
people of the State have also long been called Buckeyes. Before 1820 
Ohio was generally called The Yankee State by the Kentuck- 
-' — ians and Virginians, mainly on account of its free institutions. 

The Arms of Ohio display a bundle of 17 arrows and a sheaf 

— ; of wheat, both standing erect, and in the background a range of 

~ mountains, with the sun rising over them. The supporters are a 

farmer and a smith, with their implements. The motto is : 

Imperium In Imperio ; "An Empire within an Empire." 

The Governors of Ohio have been : Territorial : 
St. Clair, 1788-1802; Chas. W. Byrd, (acting) 1802-3. 
Edward Tiffin, 1803-7; Thos. Kirker, (acting) 1807-8; 
Huntington, 1808-10; Return Jonathan Meigs, 1810-14; Othniel 
Looker, (acting) 1814; Thos. Worthington, 1814-18; Ethan 
Allen Brown, 1818-22; Allen Trimble, (acting) 1822 ; Jeremiah 
Morrow, 1822-26 ; Allen Trimble, 1826-30 ; Duncan Mc Arthur, 
1830-32; Robert Lucas, 1832-36; Jos. Vance, 1836-38; Wilson Shannon, 1838-40 and 
1842-44; Thos. Corwin; 1840-42; Thos. W. Bartley, (acting) 1844; Mordecai Bartley, 
1844-46; Wm. Bebb, 1846-49; Seabury Ford, 1849-50; Reuben W^ood, 1850-53; Wm. 
Medill, 1853-56; Salmon P. Chase, 1856-60; Wm. Dennison, 1860-62; David Tod, 1862- 
64; John Brough, 1864-5; Chas. Anderson, (acting) 
1865-66; Jacob D. Cox, 1866-68; Rutherford B. 
Hayes, 1868-72 and 1876-77; Edward F. Noyes, 
1872-74; Wm. Allen, 1874-76; Thos. L. Young, 
1877-78; Richard M. Bishop, 1878-80; Charles 
Foster, 1880-84; George Hoadly, 1884-86 ; Joseph B. 
Foraker, 1886-90; James E. Campbell, 1890-92; and 
Wm. McKinley, Jr., 1892-4. 

Descriptive. — Ohi<o is the fourth State in popula- 
tion and wealtli, and extends for about 225 miles east 
and west, and 210 miles north and south from Michi- 
gan and Lake Erie to Kentucky and West Virginia. It 
covers a' larger area than Virginia, Kentucky or Maine. belmont^countTcourt^house. 




Arthur 

State : 

Samuel 



CINCINNATI ; 
HAMILTON-CO. COURT-HOUSE, 




666 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




=Eil 



CINCINNATI : 
QUEEN-CITY CLUB. 



A range of hills traverses the State from below the northeastern corner to the Indiana 
line near Greenville, reaching its main height near Zoar, 1,491 feet above the sea. This 
ridge forms the divide between the Lake-Erie and Ohio-River waters, 
with great plains sloping gradually away on the north and south. 
In the centre and northwest the first settlers found extensive wet 
prairies, carpeted with grasses and bright flowers and wild rice, and 
diversified by island-like groves of black-jack. There were also val- 
uable dry prairies, like the Pickaway Plains, all ready for the plough. 
The soil is a productive loam, which has borne noble harvests for 
nearly a century. The valleys are composed of fertile alluvium and 
drift, on which corn thrives amazingly. The valleys of the Musk- 
ingum, the Scioto and the two Miamis are very productive, the latter being an extension of the 
blue-grass country of Kentucky. In the south the rivers have cut gorges in the plateau, 
with rounded bluffs and deep glens, overarched by ancient forests. The high hills 
along the Ohio abound in picturesque and smiling beauty, and attain a height of 600 feet. 
The Ohio River is 1,265 miles long, from its remotest source in New York, and 975 miles 
long, from its formation by the confluence of the Allegheny and Monongahela Rivers at 
Pittsburgh. It drains 214,000 square miles, descending from 697 feet high at Pittsburgh to 
269 feet at Cairo, with a current of from one to three miles an hour. Into the Mississippi it 
pours a much greater quantity of water than the Missouri. There are 5,000 miles of 

navigable streams in the Ohio-River system. The floods in 
this great stream are often destructive, rising to a height of 
63 feet above low- water mark. The river widens from 1,000 
feet, above Gallipolis, to 1,600 feet at Cincinnati, and 3,000 
feet at Cairo ; and for 436 miles it flows along the south- 
ern border of the State, navigable at all times, although 
m late summer and autumn the sand-bars and towhead 
^!L? islands are annoying to the pilots, and keep large steam- 
boats below Wheeling. The chief streams on the south 
are the Mahoning ; the Muskingum, sometimes navigable 
for no miles to Coshocton; the Little Miami and Big 
Miami; the Scioto, 200 miles long; and the Hockhocking. Lake Erie receives the Mau- 
mee (the ancient Miami of the Lakes), on which large steamboats ascend to Perrysburg, 18 
miles (and sometimes to Defiance, 60 miles); the Sandusky, navigable to Fremont, 1 7 
miles; and the Huron, Black, Vermilion, Cuyahoga, Rocky, Chagrin, Grand, and other 
streams. The interior rivers are valuable for their water-power, and contain many rapids, 
near which factories have risen. Lake Erie, the fourth of the Great Lakes in point of 
size, is 250 miles long and 60 miles wide, and 564 feet above the sea. It is the shallowest 
of the lakes, and the most dangerous to navigate ; but has a great and increasing commerce, 
with Cleveland and Sandusky as the chief Ohio ports, and Erie and Buffalo farther to the 
eastward. The Government has constructed or improved the harbors at Sandusky, Port 
Clinton, Huron, Black River, Vermilion, and other points ; and w maintains 29 
light-houses on the Ohio coast, which is 230 miles long. The ^ largest inlet is 
Sandusky Bay, extending 18 miles into the country, with straits near bK. the centre, 
forming the Upper Bay and the Lower Bay. 
There are ten islands off Sandusky Bay, the 
largest of which (Kelley's) covers 2,800 acres, 
with rich vineyards, limestone-quarries, and 
summer villas, and 836 inhabitants. Put-in- 
Bay Island has 600 inhabitants and several 
summer hotels, formerly much frequented by 
Southerners. 




TOLEDO : PUBLIC LIBRARY. 







COLUMBUS : FRANKLIN-COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 



THE STATE OF OHIO. 



667 




CINCINNATI : 
TYLER-DAVIDSON FOUNTAIN. 



The Ohio waters contain gigantic cat-fish and sturgeon (sometimes weighing 75 pounds), 
brook and lake trout, black and calico bass, suckers and chub, white and yellow perch, 
pickerel and carp, herring and muscalonge, sun-fish and sheepshead, and other varieties. 
The State Fish Commissioners have distributed hundreds of millions of 
white-fish and perch, eels and carp ; and Ohio's profit from the white-fish 
of Lake Erie exceeds $500,000 yearly. Sandusky claims to be the 
largest market for fresh- water fish in the world, and has 1,000 men 
and $1,000,000 in capital in this business, and ships 12,000 tons a 
year. Another product of Sandusky is ice, 250,000 tons of which 
can be stored in her ice-houses at one time. 

At the time of the first settlement Ohio rested under the shad- 
ows of wide-spreading forests, and fully a quarter of its domain 
still remains in woodlands, fairly distributed through all the coun- 
ties, but heaviest along the Ohio and Maumee Rivers. 
The Climate of northern Ohio resembles that of lower New England ; that of south- 
ern Ohio is rather more severe than along the same latitude on the Atlantic coast. It is 
subject to great and sudden changes ; and to large variations in the rainfall, which ranges 
from 32 inches in the north to 46 in the southwest. Snow falls 38 days in the year ; rain, 
104; and there are 54 cloudy days and 169 fair and clear. The climate is salubrious, and 
the death-rate diminishes yearly. The isothermal line of Cincinnati is that of Milan and 
Constantinople. Lake Erie has a marked effect in mod- ^^t 
crating the climate of northern Ohio, so that it has be- 
come a region of orchards and vineyards. The State 
lies between the isothermal lines of 44° and 52°. 

Farming. — Although manufactures and mining in- 
terests are important, agriculture remains the chief in- 
dustry of Ohio. Her crops have doubled since 1 870, by 
virtue of improved methods of farming, and liberal aids 
in fertilizing the land. Wheat yields heavy harvests in 
the southwestern counties, and along the Maumee and Muskingum valleys. From its 
10,000,000 acres of tilled land, Ohio raises yearly 100,000,000 bushels of corn, 37,000,000 
of wheat, 37,000,000 of oats, and 12,000,000 of potatoes, 35,000,000 pounds of tobacco, 
3,000,000 tons of hay, and large crops of rye, barley and buckwheat, the whole valued at 
above $100,000,000 a year. Among other interesting products are 3,000,000 pounds of 
maple-sugar, 500,000 gallons of maple-syrup, 2,500,000 pounds of honey, 
and immense amounts of flax-seed and fibre, timothy-seed and sorghum, 
sugar and syrup. The orchards cover 500,000 acres, and have yielded in a 
year 31,000,000 bushels of apples, 1,500,000 of peaches, and 270,000 of 
pears. In a single year 400,000 bushels of strawberries have been sold. 
The cultivation of Catawba grapes was introduced about the year 1835, by 
Nicholas Longworth, and the Ohio-River hills bore noble and productive 
vineyards for many leagues. The product of grapes and wine 
assumed great importance. About the year i860, the climate 
of southern Ohio began to be afflicted with sudden changes and 
heavy fogs, due to the clearing off of the forests, and the vine- 
yards deteriorated and failed. The chief seat of this industry 
now is on and near Kelley's and Put-in-Bay Islands, in Lake 
Erie, where there are 6,000 acres of vineyards, producing yearly 
2,500,000 gallons of wine and 30,000,000 pounds of grapes. 
The live-stock of Ohio is valued at $ 1 1 2, 000, 000, and includes 
800,000 horses and mules, 1,750,000 cattle, 3,700,000 sheep, 
and 2,700,000 hogs. Many thousands of the sheep are of. the 




CINCINNATI BRIDGE IN EDEN PARK 




CLEVELAND : 
HIGH-SERVICE PUMPING STATION. 



668 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




best breeds, and the flocks yield yearly 20,000,000 
pounds of strong-fibred wool. The clay soil of 
the Western Reserve is the great dairy-region of 
Ohio. The dairy-products include yearly over 
50,000,000 pounds of butter, 40,000,000 of cheese, 
and 50,000,000 gallons of milk. Poultry and 
eggs reach a yearly value of $5,000,000. 

Minerals. — The coal-measures cover 10,000 
square miles, and yield 10,000,000 tons yearly, 
placing Ohio third among the coal-producing 
States, with 700 mines and 20,000 miners. It is 
all bituminous, of high value for gas, steam and 
the iron-manufacture. The counties ot Athens, Perry and Hocking, in the Hocking 
Valley, produce nearly half of the coal. The block or Mahoning variety is prized for fur- 
nace use. The iron and steel industries of Ohio reach $35,000,000 yearly, with lOO fur- 
naces and 20,000 workmen, largely dependent on local ore, of which 250,000 tons are 
mined yearly, from seams in some cases 19 feet thick. The various ores are distributed 
through 12,000 square miles. One of the ores is an excellent black band, and others are 
measurably free from sulphur and phosphorus. One third of the product comes from 
Lawrence, the most southerly county of Ohio. One third of the iron manufacturing is 
done in Cuyahoga County (Cleveland), which, with Hamilton County (Cincinnati) makes 
56,000 tons of castings yearly. The 



CLEVELAND : JEWISH ORPHAN ASYLUM. 



';«^^ 



A_(;fe'^:^^pr%^5^, 




CINCINNATI IN 1808. 



salt springs are in the Muskingum 
Valley and along the Ohio near it, 
and the salt deposits, 200 feet in 
thickness, are near the shore of 
Lake Erie. The yearly product 
reaches nearly 400,000 bai'rels, 
four fifths of which comes at pres- 
ent from Meigs and Muskingum 
Counties ; but these districts are al- 
ready over-shadowed by the rock-salt of Cleveland and Wadsworth. Half the bromine used 
in the world comes from Ohio, the brine of each barrel of Tuscarawas salt containing three 
fourths of a pound of it. Fire-clay is mined to the amount of 500,000 tons yearly, more 
than half of it coming from Jefferson and Columbiana Counties, on the upper Ohio. The 
quarries of Ohio produce more than $2, 500,000 a year, and 3,000 men are engaged in 
quarrying limestone, of which 600,000 tons are burned yearly for lime, and a still larger 
quantity finds use for fluxing, besides great amounts devoted to building, flagging and pav- 
ing. Sandusky alone ships yearly 500,000 barrels of lime from the quarries and kilns of 
Alarble Head, and on the shore of the bay there are enormous beds 
of fine white gypsum, of which 60,000 barrels yearly are sent away 
as plaster. The vicinities of Xenia, Springfield, Marion and Col- 
umbus are prolific in lime. There are profitable quarries of 
corniferous limestone at Kelley's Island, Sandusky and Col- 
umbus. The white limestone of the Dayton and Piqua 
regions is exported in large quantities. Sum- 
mit County, including Akron, produces two 
thirds of the 5,400,000 gallons of stone-ware 
made in Ohio, whose output of stone and earth- 
enware is valued at $1,000,000 a year, and is 
FiNDLAY : '<?-iL^-af|^'SBiSK?:ySi^'' one third of the entire American supply. To- 

''^^wELLs.^*^ — w^j5S2^:^SS— ;r=r?; ledo has immense deposits of fine glass-sand. 




THE ST A TE OE OHIO. 



669 




NORTH AMHERST; QUARRY NO. 
CLEVELAND STONE CO. 



Quarries of excellent sandstone abound in Ohio, particu- 
larly in the counties of Cuyahoga and Lorain, and an enor- 
mous business is done here in quarrying building-stone and 
manufacturing grindstones, mounted grindstones and scythe 
stones. The greatest deposit of sandstone, known geologi- 
cally as the Berea Grit, is located here, and is widely famous 
for its evenness of color, purity of texture, and exemption 
from the impurities that would deteriorate its marketable value. 
The building-stone finds a market from the most northerly point 
in Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico, and from the Rocky Mount- 
ains to the Atlantic. No other building-stone is in such general 
use in such a broadcast manner as this is ; and four fifths of all 
the grindstones made in America are manufactured here, finding 
a market not only all over the United States, but throughout the 
civilized world. The Cleveland Stone Company, a corporation 
founded in July, 1886, has absorbed the most valuable quarries 
in this section, and is supplying and has furnished building- 
stone for many edifices noted for their beauty. It is the largest producer of sandstones and 
grindstones in the world. The company does not hold all its property in Ohio, but possesses 
quarries in Michigan, Indiana, New Hampshire, Vermont and Massachusetts. The plant covers 
nearly 3,000 acres, and the pay-roll amounts to 
over $500,000 yearly, with nearly as much more 
expended for supplies. All of 25,000 tons of coal 
are used in making steam, and 6,000 tons of sand 
and 1,200 tons of saw-blades are consumed in the 
sawing of stone. In a single year, 3,500,000 cubic 
feet of building-stone, 120,000 tons of foundation- 
stone and 30,000 tons of grindstones were shipped 
by this company. These shipments required 30,- 
000 cars. The State Capitol of Michigan is built 
entirely of buff Amherst stone, and so are the 
Canadian Government buildings at Ottawa ; and 
there is hardly a State in the Union that has not used more or less of this stone in its 
structures. They shipped enough curbing last year to curb a road on both sides 136 miles 
long ; and sufficient flagging three inches thick to cover 80 acres of land. The Cleveland 
Stone Company owes its success chiefly to its president, James M. Worthington, its 
treasurer, George H. Worthington, and its general superintendent, James Nicholl, who 
have spent almost all their lives energetically developing the stone industry of northern 
Ohio. 

The petroleum industry of Ohio has risen to importance since 1885, and has its chief 
seats at Lima and North Baltimore, where there are enormous storage tanks. The 
wells are very numerous and prolific, and the oil is of an excellent grade ; but 

merit does not rule in the oil markets 
of the country, and for several years the 
price was forced to 15 cents a barrel ; it 
is now bringing 37 cents a barrel. It is 
much used as fuel, for manufacturing 
operations and for gas production, and 
the demand far exceeds the supply. 
The product of the Ohio oil-wells rose 
from 650,000 barrels in 1885 'o 12,500- 
BE EA QUARRY AND GRINDSTONE MiLLo CLEVELAND i^Tu, ECO. ooo barrcls lu 1 889. Experiments havc 







WEbT VIEW QUARRY NO 
CLEVELAND STONE CO. 




'7° 




COLUMEUS : OHIO INSTITUTION FOR THE 
EDUCATION OF THE BLIND. 



7\IXG\S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

been made for years past with a view of elimina- 
ting the sulphur from this oil, and at last two 
processes have been invented and put into suc- 
cessful operation on the largest scale, which 
yield the highest quality of illuminating oil. 
The largest refinery of the United States is 
building near Chicago ; its supply of oil comes 
from the Lima field by two lines of pipe, with a 
united capacity of 15,000 barrels per day. Nat- 
ural gas first began to be used at Findlay in 1884, when a well dug for the purpose pro- 
duced 250,000 feet a day. Amid great excitement many other wells were bored, and the 
population rose from 5,000 to 20,000, with new manufactories and other industries. There 
are more than 200 glass-pots in the twelve glass-works of the city. The gas-field covers 
many miles north and east of Findlay, and valuable supplies are found at many other points 
in Ohio. If the demands now being made do not exhaust the supply prematurely (as 
seems possible), this product will have a vast economic and industrial value. The gas is 
highly available as a fuel, and has largely sup- 
planted coal in the factories, many of which 
have arisen on this account. After the well 
has been drilled and the piping set up, the 
cost is trifling. Many cities are lighted at 
night by this wonderful product of the earth. 
The Adams-County Mineral Springs flow at 
the foot of Peach Mountain, and contain 
chlorides of magnesium, sodium and calcium, 
and sulphate and carbonate of lime. The 
feeble White Sulphur Springs in Delaware 
County have ceased to be a fashionable resort. 
Yellow Springs are pleasantly situated at the Cliffs on the Little Miami River, and produce 
diuretic and tonic waters, once much sought by invalids. 

Government. — The governor and the chief executive ofiicers are elected every two 
years ; and there are many commissioners and inspectors appointed by the governor. The 
General Assembly is elected every two years, and includes 36 senators and 1 14 representa- 
tives. The five Supreme-Court judges are elected by the people. There are eight circuit 
courts, each with three judges ; and several minor courts. The State Capitol, at Columbus, 

is an enormous Doric building, of fine gray 
limestone, with a high dome. The flag- 
room^ contains more than 400 flags, banners 
and markers borne by Ohio troops in the 
Secession and Mexican Wars. The State 
Library has 60,000 volumes. 

The Ohio National Guard consists of 

<S2 companies of infantry, eight batteries of 

light artillery and one troop of cavalry. 

The infantry is organized into nine regi- 

ents and one battalion. The artillery is organ- 

into one regiment ; and attached to several 

the batteries are from two to four Gatling guns. 

le company of infantry and the troop of cavalry 

are not attached to any regimental organization. 

The guard is uniformed, armed and equipped 

OHIO SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS' ORPHANS' .1 ,, tt -^ I Ci ^ J 1, 1 J 

HQiyi£_ the same as the United-States army ; and holds 




COLUMBUS 



OHIO INSTIIUTION FOR THE EDUCATION OF 
THE DEAF AND DUMB. 





THE STATE OF OHIO. 671 

annual encampments for from six to eight days, sometimes by regiments, sometimes by 
brigades, and occasionally the entire force is brought together in one camp. The State has 
no permanent camping ground, and the encampments are held in different localities. 

The State Penitentiary at Columbus is a 
■great castellated limestone building, with 
1,650 convicts, and grounds covering 24 
acres. The Intermediate Penitentiary, for 
first offenders, is at Mansfield. The State 
insane asylums at Athens, Dayton, Cleve- 
ATHENs : OHIO UNIVERSITY. land, Columbus, Toledo and Long View, 

contain 4,600 inmates, and cost $800,000 a year. The institutions for the deaf and dumb 
(500 pupils), for the education of the blind (300 pupils), and for feeble-minded youth (800 
inmates), are all at Columbus. Their buildings have cost $2,000,000, and $200,000 a 
year is required for their running expenses. The Girls' Industrial School, at White Sul- 
phur Springs, takes care of 300 inmates, on a farm of 189 acres. The Boys' Industrial 
School has 850 inmates, on a hilly and picturesque domain of 1,170 acres, near Lancaster. 
The lads are in families of 50, each under an elder brother, an assistant elder brother, and 
a teacher. The Ohio Soldiers' and Sailors' Home, at Sandusky, has 15 fire-proof cottages 
of blue limestone (each for 50 men), on a domain of 90 acres, and cares for 700 veterans. 
The Soldiers' and Sailors' Orphans' Home, on a farm of 275 acres, near Xenia, owns a 
fine administration building and 30 brick cottages, in a long line. Here 600 boys and 350 
girls receive a valuable industrial education. The Central Branch of the National Asylum 
for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers occupies a park-like domain of 627 acres, on a breezy hill 
over Dayton, traversed by 32 miles of broad avenues named for the States. There are 50 
great barracks and other buildings, with conservatories and gardens, an opera-house, a 
library of 15,000 volumes, a white stone chu{ch, a large brick hospital, and a dining-hall 
that can seat 2,250 men. The asylum contains above 5,000 inmates, more than half of 
whom are German and Irish veterans of our war. The National Cemeteries are at John- 
son's Island and Columbus, where Confederate prisoners were buried. The Columbus 
Barracks of the United-States Army occupy many buildings, in a beautiful wooded park. 

Education costs Ohio $11,000,000 a year, for its common schools alone. Out of 
1,200,000 youth of school age, 780,000 are enrolled, under 25,000 
teachers. There are private and municipal normal schools at Cincin- 
nati, Columbus, Cleveland, Lebanon, Ada, Dayton, Fayette, Canfield, 
Athens, and Wauseon, with 140 teachers and 3,600 students. The 
chief of these is at Lebanon. The State 
has a large school-fund, mainly derived 
from public lands, and supplemented by 
taxes and fines. There are 34 degree co 
leges, and 44 others, and 20 professional 
schools, with $7,000,000 worth of property, 
500 instructors and 18,000 students. 
The Ohio State University has an 
endowment of over $540,000, held 
by the Commonwealth, and derived 
from the sale of land given by act of 
Congress in 1862. It is at Colum- 
bus, on a domain of 325 acres ; and 
in and near its buildings are the 
headquarters of the State Agricul- 
tural Experiment Station, tlie Ohio 
Meteorplogical Bureau and the State Forestry Bureau. There are 175 hard-working students. 




OBERLIN : 
OBERLIN COLLEGE. 




GAMBIER : KENYON COLLEGE. 



672 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Fifty of these are women. No charge is made for 
tuition. There are five schools : Agriculture, Arts, 
Engineering, Pharmacy and Science; and the univei- 
sity also has a library of 10,000 volumes and a valuable 
geological museum. The young men form 
a battalion of four companies, drilled by 
officers of the United-States Army. 

The Ohio University was provided 
for in 1787, when the Ohio Company set 
apart for it two townships of the land then 
purchased from the United States. This 
school was organized in 1804, and is the 
oldest institution of learning northwest of 
the Ohio River. Its venerable buildings 
overlook the sinuous Hockhocking Valley, 
from its park of ancient elms, at Athens. 

Oberlin College was established in 1833, 
by the Congregationalists, and has always had a strong religious character, furnish- 
ing a broad education to thousands of pastors and missionaries. Young men and women 
have equal recognition in the classes, under rules made safe and profitable by many years 
of experience. Oberlin was for many years bitterly assailed because it opened its doors to 
negro students. The college has a number of handsome buildings of Ohio 
sandstone, most of them of recent construction. The dormitories are inade- 
quate for the 1,200 students (half of them preparatory), and 
many families in the town receive them as boarders. 

Kenyon College, at Gambler, was founded by Philander Chase, 
'?.LB)M| R Fl^^ the first Episcopal Bishop of Ohio, in 1827. The college park 
(Sfi.il B .UK ' '*^ "* ^1 contains lOO acres, shaded with noble oaks and maples, and 
Up ^ iuj i ' "^" sloping to the Kokosing Valley. Here stands Kenyon Hall, a 
!5|^:]^.Tr^. "*, , ^ many-spired dormitory, with stone walls four feet thick, dating 
ftom 1S27 ; Ascension Hall, with a high battlemented tower, 
used for an observatory ; and Rosse Hall, a stone Ionic building, 
containing the gymnasium and audience room. The Church of the Holy Spirit, the col- 
lege chapel, is a beautiful cruciform Gothic edifice, of sandstone, with memorial windows, 
climbing ivy, and wide grounds. Bexley Hall is a great Elizabethan building, the home of 
the Theological Seminary. Kenyon has seven professors and 30 students. Among the 
graduates have been Rutherford B. Hayes, Stanley Matthews, Edwin M. Stanton and David 
Davis. Kenyon Military Academy is a preparatory school, with a park of 60 acres. The 
cadets wear uniforms like those of West Point. Harcourt-Place Seminary, for girls, also 
belongs to this group of Episcopal institutions. Western-Reserve University, at Cleveland, 
includes Adelbert College, formerly Western-Reserve College, (and 
re-named for the deceased son of Amasa Stone, its chief benefactor) ; 
the Cleveland Medical College, with its handsome 
brownstone building ; the Cleveland College for 
Women ; the School of Art, and the Conservatory^ of 
Music. The preparatory Western-Reserve Academy 
occupies the ancient buildings and grounds of Western- 
Reserve College, founded at Hudson, in 1826. In 
1882 the college was transferred to Cleveland, to the 
new buildings erected for it by Mr. Stone, and 
in 18S4 the Western-Reserve University was chartered, 
and has associated together the departments named yellow springs : antioch college. 



HIRAM COLLEGE. 




THE STATR of OHIO. 



673 




AKRON : BUCHTEL COLLEGE. 



above. Subsequently the trustees of the college decided against co-education, and the 
trustees of the University erected a Woman's College. Adelbert College fronts on Wade 

Park, on Euclid Avenue. Miami University has a 
beautiful campus on the ridge of Oxford, overlooking 
the rich Miami Valley. It was chartered in 1809, 
and after a long career of usefulness suffered eclipse 
by the civil war and remained closed for several 
years. It now has 80 students. Among Miami's 
graduates were President Benjamin Harrison, 
Gen. R. C. Schenck, Whitelaw Reid, David 
Swing, Senator Brice, and other eminent men. 
Hiram College was founded in 1 850 as an academy for the Disciples of Christ, and James 
A. Garfield held its principalship from 1857 to 1861. It became a college in 1867. The 
institution has 14 instructors and 50 students (besides 200 preparatory pupils), including 
many women ; and is established among the hills of Hiram. Marietta College is a flourish- 
ing institution in the ancient town of Marietta, with about 100 students and a library of 
60,000 volumes. It was founded in 1835, ^'^^ ^^^ contributed greatly to the rise of learning 
in the West. Antioch College, at Yellow Springs, dates from 1853, when Horace Mann 
became its first president. It has three buildings and 42 collegiate students. Its tone is 
liberal, and several eminent Unitarians are numbered among its trustees. The University 
of Cincinnati was opened in 1870, and now has 14 instructors and 130 students. It po- 
sesses over $1,000,000 in endowments, and furnishes free 
tuition for residents of Cincinnati. The Cincinnati Obser- 
vatory is a department of the university. Buchtel College 
was founded at Akron in 1870 by the Ohio Universalist Con- 
vention, and endowed by John R. Buchtel. It has 92 col- 
legiate students and 320 others. Baldwin University and 
its affiliated German Wallace College and theological 
department, grew out of Baldwin Institute, founded in 
1846 at Berea ; and is a Methodist-Episcopal school with 
70 collegiate and 250 other students. Wilberforce Univer- 
sity is a small African Methodist institution. The Luth- 
erans conduct Capitol University at Columbus ; the Baptists, Denison University at Gran- 
ville (founded in 1831); the United Brethren, Otterbein University at Westerville ; the 
New Church, Urbana University ; the Methodists, Ohio Wesleyan University, founded at 
Delaware in 1844; the Presbyterians, the University of Wooster, with 250 students; the 
Reformed Church, Heidelberg College at Tiffin and Calim College at Brooklyn Village ; the 
Friends, Wilmington College ; and there are other small colleges at several other towns. 
The Case School of Applied Science at Cleveland, was endowed by Leonard Case, Jr. (in 
1886) with $1,500,000, and offers five regular courses of study. Cincinnati has three regu- 
lar medical colleges (and two eclectic and one homoeopathic), with dental and pharmaceutical 

schools besides ; and Cleveland, Columbus and 
Toledo each have two regular medical schools. 
These institutions have 210 instructors and 
1,400 students. The chief law school is at Cin- 
cinnati, and dates from 1833. It has 150 stu- 
dents and five professors, of whom Ex-Governor 
Cox is now the dean and head. Ohio has eleven 
theological schools : Methodist at Berea, He- 
brew and Presbyterian at Cincinnati, Catholic 
at Cleveland, Lutheran at Columbus and Spring- 
field, United Brethren at Dayton, Episcopal 




CLEVELAND : 
CASE SCHOOL OF APPLIED SCJENCE. 




CLEVELAND ; MEDICAL DEPARTMENT, WESTERN- 
RESERVE UNIVERSITY. 



674 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 







CINCINNATI ART 



CHOOL AND ART MUSEUM 



at Gambier, Congregationalist at Oberlin, 
Reformed at Tiffin, and United Presby- 
terian at Xenia. Lane Theological Sem- 
inary, on Walnut Hills, near Cincinnati, 
was opened in 1832 by the Rev. Lyman 
Heecher, and has since been an influen- 
tial and prosperous Presbyterian school. 
It possesses attractive buildings and 
grounds and about 50 students. The 
State contains 8,000 religious societies, 
with 7,000 church edifices, valued at 
$33,000,000. There are 5,400 clergymen, 500,000 church-members, and 2,500,000 adher- 
ents. One third of the churches and communicants are Methodist, and one sixth Presby- 
terian. The Baptists and Disciples have nearly 60,000 members each ; the Lutherans, 
40,000; and the Congregationalists and Reformed Church about 20, 000 each. There are 
550 Catholic parishes, with a population of 400,000. 

The culture of the Buckeye State is farther advanced by a large number of public libra- 
ries, the chief of which is at Cincinnati, and has 150,000 volumes. The Young Men's Mer- 
cantile Library also has 50,000 books. Cleveland, Chillicothe, Columbus, Dayton, Spring- 
field, Toledo and other cities have generous provision for the literary entertainment of 
their people, in carefully ordered public libraries. Cincinnati stands 
foremost among Western cities in its devotion to art and music, which 
is partly due to its large German population. The Art Museum and 
academy have received gifts amounting to above $1,000,000, and occupy 
noble buildings on Mount Adams, 350 feet above the Ohio, in Eden Park. 
The school has ten teachers and 400 pupils, and hundreds of valuable 
paintings and sculptures. Cincinnati is also celebrated for its 
great school of wood-carvers, reviving the excellence of mediaeval • ,-., 
work. The growth of art in Cincinnati dates from Eckstein's 
drawing-classes, in 1826, and the art-academies of Franks and 
Frankenstein, and has been advanced greatly by the munificent 
endowments of West and Longworth, Springer and Sinton. The 
great schools of art thus founded have educated several illustrious painters and sculptors, 
like Powers, Beard and Buchanan Read, and have taught a true appreciation of beauty and 
nobility to thousands of earnest students. The Garfield Memorial at Cleveland, is a round 
stone tower, 165 feet high, with historical friezes, illuminated windows, marble mosaics, 
and statues of War and Peace. The remains of the late President are placed in a great 
metal casket, in the crypt, above which, in a hall surrounded by granite columns, stands a 
noble statue of Garfield. The Memorial was built with the contributions of the American 
people, and dedicated in 1 890. It occupies a noble place in Lake-View Cemetery. 

Pottery in the United States has largely been 
confined to simple articles for ordinary uses ; the 
artistic being absorbed by the utilitarian ; but of 
later years an earnest attempt has been made at 
various places to raise the artistic impulse of Ameri- 
cans. One of the most successful and most credit- 
able of these efforts is the world-famous Rook- 
wood. Pottery, of Cincinnati. This pottery was 
established in 1880 by Mrs. Maria Longworth 
Storer, whose father, Joseph Longworth, was a 
i^fl patron of art and a founder of the Art School of 
CINCINNATI : THE fiooKwijuu Hul itKr. Cincinnati, and whose grandfather, Nicholas Long- 




CLEVELAND : GARFIELD MONUMENT. 



^ 








THE STATE OF OHIO. 



675 




CINCINNATI 



SPRINGER MUSIC HALL AND EXPOSITION BUILDING. 



worth, was probably the pioneer producer of Catawba wine. The Rookwood ware is a true 
faience, made of clays from the Ohio Valley, and mainly on that oldest of artist tools, the 
long-neglected potter's wheel. The ornamentation is entirely underglaze, and discards 

altogether the modern methods of printed transfers. 
It lb distinguished by boldness and originality, and by 
the remarkable decorative quality of the 
color grounds. The ware takes rank 
with the finest modern work, and finds 
place in museums and the best private 
collections, both at home and abroad. 
The pottery was until recently a private 
concern, carried on with a purely artistic 
view. In 1890 the Rookwood Pottery 
Company was incorporated by a few wealthy connoisseurs, and the financial side of the 
enterprise remains, as formerly, subordinate to the artistic. The works attract visitors from 
all over the world, and though their output is very limited, the unique and exquisite quality 
of the production gives it a ready market on both sides of the Atlantic. Young as the 
pottery is, it has not only taken several awards in this country and England, but was given 
the gold medal at Paris in 1889, where the famous potteries of the Old World had entered 
into competition. 

Newspapers. — The oldest newspaper is the Scioto Gazette, founded at Chillicothe in 
1800. Among the journalists of Ohio have been Howells, Piatt, Locke (Petroleum V. 
Nasby), "Artemus Ward," Murat Halstead, and Whitelaw Reid. 

The Cincinnati News and job printing establishment is almost co-eval with the city. It 
was first known as the Advertiser, then the Republican, and then the Enquirer, which name 
it has held for the past seventy years. It was first a weekly paper, like most of those 
started in the New West. It grew in time to issue semi -weekly, tri-weekly and daily edi- 
tions. It was the first daily in Cincinnati that included in its daily 
issue that of a Sunday issue. In its early history its editions were 
worked off on hand-presses, their motive power being human muscles. 
It was not until about 1850 that the various editions were printed on a 
steam power-press. For the past 20 years the Enquirer has been con- 
trolled by John R. McLean, under whose energetic management it has 
grown in business and circulation to be the foremost paper in the State, 
and one of the most influential in the great West. In politics it has 
always been, as it is now. Democratic. It may truly be said of the 
Enquirer "it never broke down." It has always been on a firmly es- 
tablished foundation, and promises to maintain that position. The 
Enquii-er has gained a world-wide celebrity by the completeness and 
brightness of its news-service, its special correspondents being scattered 
all over the world. One of the most potent factors in the marked suc- 
cess of the Enquirer is that it has always championed the cause of the 
people, fearlessly advocating those reforms which the masses demand 
against the classes. Its weekly edition wields a powerful influence 
among the farmers' organizations, and it has for years agitated and 
urged the reforms which are at the basis of the Farmers' Alliance. 
The mechanical department is located in an extensive building in the rear of the office, and 
other buildings front on Vine Street. It is as large and as well-equipped as any newspaper 
in the country. It is complete in every detail, and exemplifies the wonderful growth of 
modern journalism. 

At Springfield is issued one of the most successful journals in this country. It is T/ie 
Farm and Fireside, published by Mast, Crowell & Kirkpatrick, who also publish another 




CINCINNATI : 
THE ENQUIRER. 



676 



KL\'G\S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SPRINGFIELD : MAST, CROWELL & KIRKPATRICK, 
" FARM AND FIRESIDE. " 



journal, The Ladies' Home Companion, which ranks 
high among the notable periodicals. The puljlish- 
ers are three men who are conspicuous in Springfield 
affairs, and also identified with many affairs of the 
State and far beyond the State. The senior mem- 
ber, P. P. Mast, besides being an equal owner with 
Crowell and Kirkpatrick in the publishing business, is 
also an eminent manufacturer, banker and capitalist. 
J. S. Crowell is the business manager, and T. J. 
Kirkpatrick is the managing editor. The printing- 
house is a handsome four-story brick structure, built 
and owned by the firm, and in it are commodious 
and well-appointed apartments for the many details 
of such an extensive enterprise. The Farm and 
Fireside is a 16-page, 64-column paper, issued twice 
a month, devoted to agricultural and household matters, and very widely known. Its 
actual circulation amounts to 250,000 copies, and reaches nearly 40,000 post-offices. These 
are figures which tell of the remarkably satisfactory manner in which they have served their 
constituency — the farmers and their families — throughout the length and breadth of this 
country. It is an excellent periodical, clean in all its details, trustworthy in its reports, 
comprehensive in its scope, entertaining in its general reading, and as a whole, instructive 
and interesting. Its advertising columns have been as carefully guarded as possible ; the 
aim being to make the advertising space of service to its readers, as well as profitable to its 
advertisers. It is the most successful of all the numerous agricultural periodicals. The 
Ladies'' ILome Companion has been published by this firm for four years, and now has at- 
tained a circulation of 150,000 copies. Out of the 60,000 post-offices in this country, it is 
a regular visitor at nearly 30,000. 

Chief Cities. — Cincinnati, " the Queen City" of Ohio and the valley, stands on two 
terraces above the Ohio River, and around its landward side sweeps a noble semi-circle of 
high hills, crowned by handsome villas. Among its notable features are the great schools 
of art and music ; the costly public buildings, like the post-office, and the numerous and 
interesting churches and colleges ; the great bridges to the Kentucky shore ; the inclined- 
plane railways, climbing sharply to extensive beer-gardens on the hill-tops ; the beautiful 
surrounding parks, Eden, Burnet Woods, and others ; Spring-Grove Cemetery, which many 




a- 1 -1^^ ^ 






- j3|&iiSj^ . 






C NC NNAT THE QUEEN C TY OF THE WEST AND THE OHIO RIVER W TH COV NGTON AND NEWPORT 





CINCINNATI : 
ELM-STREET INCLINE. 



THE STATE OF OHIO. 

travellers believe to be the most picturesque in the world ; the great 
Exposition Building and Music Hall ; the massive and noble edifice of 
the Chamber of Commerce, designed by H. H. Richardson, and built ^* 
byNorcross Brothers ; the populous German quarter, " Over the Rhine" 
(the Miami Canal); the magnificent Tyler-Davidson Fountain, with its 
many bronze statues ; and the charming highland suburbs of Clifton, 
Walnut Hills and others. Cincinnati has 100,000 operatives, making 
yearly more than if 200, 000, 000 worth of goods. There are 24 railway 
lines entering the city, with several costly bridges across the Ohio River ; 
and steamboats fiom many ports on the Ohio and Mississippi and their 
tributaries call at the wharf-boats. The central position of the city 
gives it a great commerce with the West and South, the city having 
constructed a railway across Kentucky and Tennessee to Chattanooga. 

What the Cafe Bignon is to Paris, the Cafe Savoy to London, Young's to Boston, and 
Delmonico's to New York, the St. Nicholas is to Cincinnati. No city west of New York 
has a more deservedly famous restaurant than that of the St. Nicholas, the proprietor of 
which IS Edward N. Roth, whose name as a restaurateur and hotel proprietor is well known 
on both sides of the Atlantic. The older part of the building includes 
two of the fine private mansions of older days, with spacious and 
luxurious rooms and halls, constructed with an eye 
solely to comfort and content. The St. Nicholas 
was enlarged in 189 1 by an extensive addition on the 
east, so that the hotel is now one of the large hotels 
of Cincinnati. Throughout it is most exquisitely fur- 
nished, and in many of its appointments it is indeed 
sumptuous. It is in the very heart of the business 
section of the city, and for business or pleasure there 
is no hotel more conveniently situated, being on the 
corner of Fourth and Race Streets, and handy to all 
attractions, whether of business or amusement. 

Cleveland is on the south shore of Lake Erie, with 
a harbor built at great cost, of piers and a break- 
water, at the mouth of Cuyahoga River. The chief imports are lumber and Lake-Superior 
iron-ore, the chief export being coal. The city has 150 iron and steel works, producing 
$35,000,000 a year; 20 oil-works, including the immense establishments of the Standard 
Oil Company ; and five ship-yards for building wooden and steel vessels. Twelve lines of 
steamboats and ten railways converge at this point, handling an immense commerce. A 
single one of Cleveland's four great viaducts cost $2,250,000. Euclid Avenue is one of 
the handsomest residence-streets in the world, and runs out to the famous Lake- View Cem- 
etery. The abundant trees on the broad streets and in the parks have 
Cleveland the title of "the Forest City," and statues of Gen. Moses 
and Commodore Perry, and other monuments, further adorn the place. 

Hotel accommodations in Cleveland are excellent. 
This is necessarily so in a city where there is so much 
railroad travel. The Hotel HoUenden is considered the 
finest hostelry in the city. It is built of pressed brick, 
with sandstone trimmings, and rises seven stories high, 
fire-proof throughout. It was finished May I, 1890, and 
cost $1,500,000. The effect of the exterior has been 
that of studied plainness rather than architectural beauty, 
but the surface is broken by many octagonal and circular 
bays, ^nd the comer is surmounted with a large square Cleveland ; hotel hollenden. 




CINCINNATI : ST. NICHOLAS HOTEL. 








678 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CINCINNATI : 
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE: 



tower, which rises considerably higher than any point in the vicinity. The original Hol- 
lenden was built by L. E. Holden. This was merely a section of the present structure, 
and contained 135 rooms. The present HoUenden contains 420 chambers and 100 bath 
rooms. It occupies the whole square at the corner of Bond and 
Superior Streets, and running back to Vincent Street. The inside 
finish is mahogany. There is a great deal of tiling in all of the 
common rooms, bath, office, and corridors. The owners are the 
I loUenden Hotel Company ; the proprietors are L. Dean Holden 
& Co., and the manager is Frank A. Brobst. In construction, 
situation, exterior appearance, interior furnishings and general 
management, there are but few hotels that equal the Hollenden. 
Columbus has the State Capitol and several palatial institu- 
ti nis, and a great United-States building, with profitable manu- 
factures of iron and steel, agricultural implements and carriages. 
It possesses wide streets and large parks, with 50 churches and three 
colleges. Toledo, five miles up the Maumee River, is an im- 
portant manufacturing, railway and shipping point, handling immense quantities of coal, 
iron-ore, grain and lumber, and growing rapidly. Pipe-lines lead natural gas into the city 
for manufacturing and other purposes. Dayton, on the Big Miami, is a great hive of manu- 
factures, employing 10,000 persons, and producing $15,000,000 a year, with seven railways 
converging into its bounds. Sandusky, with its fine land-locked harbor, has one of the largest 
coastwise trades on the lakes, and the largest trade in fresh-water fish ($1, 500,000 a year) in 
the world, with a fruit trade of .f 1 , 000, 000 a year, a product of 2, 000, 000 gal Ions of wine, and 
a large trade in blue and white limestone. Zanesville, on the Muskingum, has costly pub- 
lic buildings and water-works, and many factories. Historic Chillicothe rears its manufactur- 
ing and commercial industries on a picturesque hill-girt plateau near the Scioto. Springfield 
dwells amid the richest farm lands, and makes myriads of mowers and reapers. Among 
the other cities are Canton, rich in wheat and coal ; Massillon, with quarries of fine white 
sandstone ; Steubenville, digging coal and making iron, amid pleasant river scenery ; 
Xenia, with its colleges and costly public buildings ; Hamilton, fhe manufacturing centre 
of a rich farming country on the Miami ; fronton, the headquarters of the famous Hanging- 
Rock iron region ; and Pomeroy, on the Ohio, surrounded by salt-furnaces and coal-mines. 
The Railroads of Ohio include several great trunk-lines from East to West, nu- 
merous North and South routes, and a network of tributary roads, so that every county is 
crossed. The revenue-yielding tonnage of freight is 85,000,000 tons yearly, one third of 
which is coal and one tenth grain. The first line extended from Springfield to Sandusky, and 
was begun in 1835. Now the State is a grand highway of nations containing long sections 
of the famous routes between the agricultural West and the commercial East. 

One of the richest regions of the West is the Miami Valley, which is traversed by the 
Cincinnati, Hamilton & Dayton Railroad. The Cincinnati terminus has a large station and 
train-house, built in 1864. The company was chartered in 1846, and operates 347 miles. 
The capital stock is $4,000,000, besides preferred stock of $1,553,600. July I, 
the assets were $15,500,186; the gross earnings 
from operation, $3,778,003, less the operating ex- 
penses and taxes, $2,235,979, leaving a net income 
of $1,542,024 for the year. The amount of interest 
paid last year was $707,940. During the past year 
the company purchased from the Louisville, Cincin- 
nati & Dayton Railroad a completed section from 
Middletown to Hamilton, a distance of 14 miles. 
They now have 95 locomotives and 5,214 cars, of 

, . , / . , T^ • , CINCINNATI: 

Which 5,055 are freight-cars. During the past year Cincinnati, Hamilton 4 dayton depot. 








THE STATE OF OHIO. 679 

they have hauled 3,303,493 passengers and 3,803,251 tons of freight. Much of this latter 
is grain and lumber. The company's main line extends from Cincinnati to Toledo, con- 
necting there for Detroit and all points along the great lakes. This line is about 200 miles 
long, and traverses the rich and beautiful agricultural region celebrated in the poem of "June 
on the Miami," passing through the important cities of Hamilton and Dayton, and through 
the famous oil-country around Lima. Another division of this railroad swings off to the 
westward at Hamilton, and reaches Indianapolis in about 100 miles. This route is traversed 
by the fast trains from Cincinnati to Chicago and also to St. Louis by the Vandalia line. 
The through trains from Cincinnati to Detroit or Chicago have vestibuled parlor, dining 
and sleeping cars, and afford delightful journeys through the pastoral scenery and enterprising 
cities of western Ohio. 

The Canals of Ohio were built between 1825 and 1842, at a cost of $16,000,000. 

The Ohio Canal, 309 miles long, from Cleveland to Portsmouth, on the Ohio River, has 

152 lift-locks. The Miami and Erie Canal extends from Cincinnati to Toledo, 250 miles. 

Finance. — The State debt decreased between 1880 and 1890, from $10,000,000 to 

$7,000,000. There are 200 National banks in Ohio, with a vast volume of financial business. 

The First National Bank of Cincinnati is one of the old 
reliable institutions of the city, and indisputably the largest 
and foremost National bank in Ohio. It was organized in 
1863, with a capital of $1,500,000. In 1879 this capital was 
decreased (by repurchase of the shares) to $1,200,000, 
which amount has continued unchanged, although the sur- 
plus and undivided profits are about $700,000. A marked 
feature of the bank is its conservatism, both as regards 
changes in the management and the character of its de- 
positors. In its whole career of 28 years it has had but two 
presidents ; and four of the eight directors have remained on 
the board during the entire life of the corporation. Its de- 
positors are almost entirely derived from the mercantile and 
manufacturing interests of the city. The bank statement of July 18, 1890, to the comp- 
troller credited them with a capital of $i,200,coo, surplus $240,000 and undivided profits 
$418,716. The amount on deposit was $4,629,987, and there were well-secured loans 
amounting to $3,771,377- They are cor- 
respondents of the First, Third, Fourth and 
Western National Banks of New York, and 
have extensive relations with the banking 
interests of London. L. B. Harrison is 
the president, and W. S. Rowe the cashier. 
The First National Bank building is one 
of the neatest architectural specimens of 
office structures in Cincinnati. 

Manufactures employ 230,000 opera- 
tives and a capital of $200,000,000, with a yearly product of $400,000,000, nearly half of 
which comes from Hamilton and Cuyahoga Counties. Ohio is one of the leading States 
m making green and window glass and glass-ware, and has large works at Findlay and East 
Liverpool. One fourth of the agricultural implements of America are made at Columbus, 
Akron, Springfield and Canton. Rolling-mills employ thousands of men at Cleveland, 
Columbus, Youngstown and other points. 

Perhaps no metal goes into such a variety of shapes and into such unlimited uses as 
iron. It is certain that there is no mineral so universally abounding. From the great 
walking-beam of the mammoth steamship to the tiny hairspring of a lady's watch the variety 
of shapes and uses of iron is endless. The ease with which it is now worked is re- 





CINCINNATI : FIRST NATIONAL BANK. 




CLEVELAND : THE VIADUCT. 



68o 



A'ING'S HAhWBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CLEVELAND : 
IRON-ORE VESSEL OF PICKANDS, MATHER 



markable. When the glowing red coil of metal is shot out from between the rolls, and is 
trained along over conductors to the mill-yard, it does not resemble the dull ore that went 
into the smelter at the other end of the works. At Cleveland there are many industries 
using iron in enormous quantities, in rolling- 
mills, furnaces, foundries, and the works of ma- 
chinists, tool-makers, ship-builders, and others. 
Here, too, is one of the greatest ports for receiv- 
ing and forwarding ores and pig iron and coal. 
So, naturally there have grown up several great 
and wealthy houses, whose business as factors, 
brokers and merchants is to act between the 
consumer and producer of these staple com- 
modities. The representative house at this time 
is the firm of Pickands, Mather & Co., of Cleve- 
land, one of the largest in the country devoted 
to pig iron, and dealing in the native ore and coal. They are extensively interested in 
various furnaces converting ore into pig iron. The firm dates back to 1882, and since 
that time has always been an energetic house. Not only are they interested in iron fur- 
naces in Cleveland, but at other Ohio points, and in Pennsylvania and Michigan as well, 
altogether making a daily output of about 700 tons of pig iron. They operate their own 
fleet of vessels, in bringing the ore from the mines down the lakes to the principal 
distributing ports ; and have at these ports their own docks, to which the vessels go di- 
rectly to discharge, and which are equipped with the most modern machinery for econom- 
ically and quickly ^ ^ - . unloading the vessels. This is best 

illustrated by a statement that a steamer 
carrying as high as 2,800 tons of ore 
arrives at the docks in the morning, 
and is discharged, fueled, and ready to 
leave the port again for the next cargo 
by sundown. In addition to the above 
lines, the firm is a large handler of coal, 
and the business transacted annually 
amounts to many millions of dollars. 
Labor-saving machines are revolutionizing all kinds of industry. Spinning is now 
almost entirely mechanical, and weaving still more so. The coal-miner's pick is rapidly 
becoming a thing of the past, as the new electric coal-diggers are being put on the market. 
Even the work of longshoremen and hod-carriers is now being done by machinery. The 
slow and laborious method of discharging or loading a vessel is almost entirely done away 
with, while hoisting machines and tramways neatly and speedily do the same work. The Brown 
Hoisting and Conveying Machine Company, of — - 

Cleveland, organized in 1881, and having a capital 
of $ioo,ooo,devotesitselfto manufacturing labor- 
saving machines of this nature. Alexander E. 
Brown, the originator of the concern, and still 
its general manager, is a genius in this line of 
invention. In fact, it requires an inventor to 
apply this same system of hoisting and convey- 
ing to its various uses, and for the construction 
of the same to suit the varied conditions of sur- 
roundings where the apparatus is to be used. 
The Brown system has been exceedingly successful for handling ore and coal, and their 
traveling crane for ship-builders' use has accomplished a remarkable saving of time and 




CLEVELAND ; BROWN'S PATENT MOVABLE BRIDGE TRAMWAY SYSTEM. 




CLEVELAND : 
BROWN HOISTING AND CONVEYING MACHINE COMPANY. 



THE STATE OF OHIO. 



68i 




VARNER & SWASEY. 



labor, in handling the heavy plates used in the construction of armored vessels, iron boats, 
and similar works. Besides the coal and ore and other tramways, they manufacture fur- 
nace-hoists for the automatic charging of blast-furnaces and kilns, which dispense with the 
employment of top-fillers ; all operations being conducted by one man located at the engine 
at the base of the hoist. The concern also makes cantilever derricks, power and hand-travel- 
ing cranes, automatic dumping buckets, and many other similar articles. 

Worcester R. Warner and Ambrose Swasey, 
the two members who constitute the firm of War- 
ner & Swasey, began the manufacture of ma- 
chinery in 1880, with a small force of skilled 
workmen, who came with them from New Eng- 
land. From the first there has been a growing 
demand for their products, until now they employ 
a force of 150 men, and their large factory is 
filled with the most modern tools and appliances 
especially adapted to their work. Among the 
specialties which they manufacture are astronom- 
ical telescopes and domes, and machine-tools for iron and brass work. This firm has 
made for many of the leading colleges and observatories of the country telescopes and 
domes which are noted for their excellent workmanship. The equatorial telescope mount- 
ings, designed and built by them, vary in size from the four-inch aperture to the 36-inch 
telescope for the Lick Observatory, on Mt. Hamilton, Cal., which was erected by them in 
1888. The steel observatory domes built by them, although in many cases very large in 
diameter and necessarily very heavy, yet by means of their improved anti-friction running 
mechanism they are made to revolve with great ease, a requisite highly appreciated by 
astronomers. Among the domes recently erected are two for the new Naval Observatory, 
at Washington, one of which is 26^ feet and the other 45 feet in diameter. In the line of 
machine-tools, which represents a large proportion of their production, while making a 
general variety of iron and steel-working machinery, they give special attention to the de- 
signing and construction of machinery, tools, and fixtures, and the equipment of plants for 
the manufacture of brass goods for steam, gas, and water. By their improved methods in 
this direction they have been able to greatly reduce the cost of the manufacture of such 
goods, and for this reason, and also because of the excellent quality of their machinery, they 
have found a ready market in this country and in Europe among the leading manufacturers. 

It does not require a very aged man to remember the first train of cars that ran in the 
country. The South-Carolina Railroad, completed in 1833, was the initial railroad in 
America. The improvement in the building of cars is never-ceasing. In 1849, '^ years 
after the first railroad in the United States, the manufacture of rolling-stock in the West 
was begun at Dayton by E. E. Barney, who died in 1880. The first firm name was Barney, 
Parker & Co. ; then Barney, Smith & Co. followed, and continued under that style until 
1867, when the Barney & Smith Manufacturing Company came into existence. The cor- 
poration started with $500,000, 
l)ut this was increased to |i 1,000, - 
000 ; and now the property involved 
is worth several times that sum. 
Their plant covers over 30 acres, 
and they employ 1,800 men. It is 
one of the largest and best-con- 
structed manufacturing plants of 
any character in America, and is 
an industry in which the State of 
Ohio takes great pride. The an- day^ton -. barney & smith manufacturing company. 




682 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




COLUMBUS KILBOURNE i JACOBS 
MANUFACTURING CO 



nual pay-roll amounts to $1,000,000. An idea of the magnitude of the business can be 
obtained from the fact that 20,000,000 feet of lumber are consumed every year. This means 
an annual business of over $3,000,000. The average capacity of the works is 15 freight-cars 

and one passenger-car a day. They are one of the 
largest car-building houses in the world ; and the 
cars as they come from these enormous shops show 
the results of art, skill, ingenuity, and mechanism 
of the highest order. 

The increase in manufacturing in all lines 
thioughout the West has been phenomenal. As the population 
spiead over the open country, establishing thriving towns, the 
demand for increased railroad facilities became imperative, thus 
leadmg to the greatest and most rapid era of railroad building ever 
lecorded. This necessitated the invention and manufacture of 
improved machinery for moving the large amounts of earth for grading the road-beds of 
the new lines, and this demand led to the establishment some 17 years ago of the Kil- 
bourne & Jacobs Manufacturing Company, in Columbus. They began in a small way, by 
manufacturing the common drags or dump-scrapers ; but by energy, push and inventive 
genius, have now grown to a corporation of $500,000 capital, with a surplus of $100,000. 
They manufacture the latest improved machinery for earth-moving, including wheel 
scrapers and steam shovels, with which earth is at present moved at about a fifth the cost 
of carts and wagons. In addition tO this, they manufacture trucks, baggage-barrows, and 
express-wagons, with which a large majority of railroads and jobbing houses are now fur- 
nished by them. Their specialty, however, is steel stamped, or drawn ware, from which 
articles heretofore cut and riveted are now drawn from one sheet of solid metal into any 
shape desired. This is an entirely new industry, and the various forms which sheet-steel 
can be made to assume under great pressure are almost inconceivable. Steel one fourth of 
an inch thick can be drawn into steel sinks, bath-tubs, and other similar articles, or made 
of lighter material into bottles, balls, and boxes. Their main works cover 14 acres ; and 
their wheelbarrow works, which produce from 600 to 800 barrows daily, are adjacent, and 
cover eight acres of ground. This is a typical American company, which by their enter- 
prise and energy are at present sending goods to all parts of this and foreign countries. 

With many other industries that developed W' est when the vast lumber regions were dis- 
covered was that of carriage-making. Formerly that business was confined almost exclu- 
sively to the East, but the matter o{ freight both ways was brought into the question, and 
factories began to spring up all over the West with the growing demand. These were the 
more numerous in Ohio and Michigan, owing to the proximity of the timber, iron and 
leather. In Cincinnati there is a long line of buggy and carriage makers, including some 
individually extensive concerns, producing, it is said, a greater number of these vehicles 

than is produced in any other one city. They 
are mainly a cheaper grade of vehicles. At 
Columbus, however, has developed the greatest 
buggy and carriage manufactory in this country. 
It is the Columbus Buggy Company, a concern 
known throughout America for its quantity and 
quality of carriages and buggies, making in 
value the largest output in this line. Allied with 
it, and in one sense its forerunner, is the Peters 
Dash Company, the original intent of which was 
the manufacture of carriage dashers and fenders, 
which were introduced by them in this country. 
COLUMBUS : COLUMBUS BUQQY CO. The yearly output of this specialty is about 




THE STATE OF OHIO. 



683 




SPRINGFIELD 



300,000 dashers. The business was founded in 1873, ^"^^ ^^'^ branches at Chicago, Omaha, 
Detroit, Cincinnati, Kansas City and San Francisco. They employ from 800 to 1,500 men, 
and have a yearly pay-roll of fully $500,000. The Columbus Buggy Company and the Peters 

Dash Company form the foremost single indus- 
trial establishment in Columbus, and their large 
group of fine and lofty brick factories is one of 
the interesting sights of Ohio's capital. 

Farming is altogether different from what 
it was half a century ago. The introduction of 
farming implements for every specific part of 
the work has brought about the change. The 
immensity of the grain fields made it a slow job 
casting the seed by hand, and not only slow but 
very irregular. This apparent demand for some- 
thing to give better accommodation was met by 
P. P. Mast & Company, who own the largest grain-drill factory in the world. The firm 
was started in 1854, and has continued in its present location in Springfield to the present 
time, the president, P. P. Mast, still at the head, being one of Ohio's citizens of world-wide 
fame, connected with several great industries and many public institutions. The plant 
covers about 20 acres of ground, and the area of floor-space is about 5^ acres. From 350 
to 400 men are employed the whole year round, and the annual pay-roll amounts to $200,000. 
The products comprise all styles of grain-drills and machines for sowing seed broadcast. 
Although these are their specialties, they also manufacture cultivators, hay-rakes and cider- 
mills. P. P. Mast & Company have numerous branch-houses, all over the country. 

As business is now being conducted no firm feels secure without a safe or a vault, or 
both. The safe-deposit and trust companies necessarily have the most thoroughly con- 
structed safes and vaults, and a great demand has sprung up for complicated locks. Com- 
bination-locks figure on even small office-safes, and banks and financial institutions and 
great corporations use the time-lock. Hall's Safe & Lock Company, of Cincinnati, are the 
largest manufacturers of safes, vaults and locks in the world. The business was started 
about 50 years ago, as a private enterprise. In 1867 the company came into existence as a 
corporation, with a capital stock of $350,000. The works cover 350,000 square feet of 
floor space, and employ from 700 to 800 men. The buildings, all of brick, cover two great 
squares in the business part of Cincinnati. The annual pay-roll amounts to nearly 
$500,000. The product comprises 
fire-proof and burglar-proof safes, 
and bank and safe-deposit vaults. 
They also manufacture combina- 
tion and time locks. The highest 
award at the Centennial Exposi- 
tion, in 1876, was given to this 
company. Hall's Safe & Lock 
Company is universally recognized 
as the largest safe and vault manu- 
facturers in the world ; and it is 
also said that they actually do double the quantity of kindred work of any other company. 
Their safes and vaults are to be seen all over the continent. 

The development of office appliances has grown much more rapidly in the past few years 
than most people imagine, and especially is this so in the various appliances for the rapid 
and orderly filing and preservation of papers. Every office and counting-room nowadays 
considers a filing cabinet of some kind an absolute necessity, the same as the office safe, the 
telephone and the writing machine ; and as the demand for improved appliances has grown, 




C NCINMATI HALL a SAFE A^D LOCK CO 



684 



AVJVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CINCINNATI ; THE GLOBE CO. 



it has naturally encouraged invention and enterprise 
on the part of manufacturers. The Globe Company 
of Cincinnati and New York, which stands at the 
front in its particular line, has achieved a marked 
success. The company was incorporated in 1882, and 
has had a marvelous growth in view of business and 
popularity. The extensive factory at the corner of 
Second and John Streets in Cincinnati, having a iloor 
area of 60,000 square feet, employs 200 hands, while 
the factory in New York employs 50 hands. The 
class of goods turned out is filing cabinets of every 
description for letters and documents, fine office-desks, 
and also a number of smaller articles of -paper stock, 
the latter manufactured especially for the stationery trade. The Globe Company takes a 
special pride in its«.furniture work, which is unsurpassed for construction and finish. 

For some years past the manufacturers of straw board (better known to the public as 
paste-board) have been making but little money. The production was greater than the 
demand, and the competition was injudicious. To overcome this difficulty the leading 
mill-owners were induced to sell their plants to the American Straw Board Company, a great 
organization with able executive management, which proposed to serve the public with the 
best possible products at the lowest possible cost consistent with reasonable profit. This 
was in no way a trust: all the manufacturers and mills sold out entire, and lost their identity. 
The organization was effected in June, 1889, and the corporation, with a capital of 
ii>6,ooo,ooo, began business. The company operates 20 fine mills, giving a capacity from 
thirty-five machines, ranging from 44 inches to 104 inches in width. Ohio has mills of the 
American Straw Board Company at Lima, Dayton, Portage, and Circleville ; and there are 
others at Noblesville and Anderson, Indiana ; and at Quincy and Lockport, Illinois. These 
mills are in excellent order, and represent years of the keenest and ablest experience, and 
an actual investment of several millions of dollars. The plan of the company is to regulate 
the supply by the demand. When the latter falls off, as many mills as necessary are closed, 
and not started up until business is more brisk. The straw board and tar board turned out 
are of all qualities and varieties, to meet every demand, but the price-cutting, once the bane 
of the market, is now done away with, and yet without any injury to the consumers. The 
company owns and controls numerous patents. In the makinj::^of straw board lumber it has 
invented and introduced a new article of 
commerce that is destined to find an unlim- ^=^ 

ited demand. This lumber is light, and not — 
inflammable; is tough, and yet elastic ; is 
durable, yet easily manipulated. It is 
prepared on its surface to resemble all 
woods, all metals and all minerals; and 
is made plain and embossed, in single 
color or variegated. One plant at Lima 
is used for making egg-cases. The com- ^^^ portage American stra v b akl a c ll\ber co 

pany has branch offices at Boston, New \ oik, Philadelphia, Cincinnati, and elsewhere ; 
and its main office is in the Pullman Building, at Chicago. 

The manufacture of paper is now both a great and a peculiar industry, and the daily con- 
sumption is enormous, for newspapers, books, periodicals, wrapping, and hundreds of other 
uses. While the mills make the paper, and to a certain extent dispose of their own pro- 
duct, there is in Cincinnati a jobbing-house known to the paper trade of the whole country, 
the Chatfield & Woods Company, the oldest and foreriiost in its line in the Ohio Valley. 
The busmess was originally started under the firm style of Chatfield & Woods, which was 




THE STATE OE OHIO. 



685 




one of the oldest business firms in Cincinnati. They not only handle 
paper at wholesale, and as agents for various mills, but also are large 
owners in mills, and some years ago established an extensive manufactory 
for paper bags and flour sacks. These latter two products are made 
of manilla paper, and require special machinery, 
some of which make the regulation Union bags. 
After the death of the senior member of the firm 
it went out of existence and was succeeded by two 
close corporations. The Chatfield & Woods Com- 
pany, and the Chatfield & Woods Bag Company, 
which are collectively the largest house in this line 
in the West. The paper-bag factory is a large 
five-story brick structure, having a capacity of turn- 
oiNciNNATi : THE CHATFIELD & WOODS CO. ing out many millious of paper bags of all sizes 

and varieties, by machinery, which receives the paper in a roll and delivers the bags all 
folded, pasted, and counted. 

Since the first patent granted in 1836 for the manufacture of matches, the industry has 
grown enormously. Over 6,000,000 gross of matches of 14,400 matches to a gross are 
consumed annually in this country. A factory was built at Westville (Conn.) in 1830. Sev- 
eral others started in the East, including the Byam & Carleton in Boston, and the Swift & 
Courtney in V/ilmington (Del.). Factories were started in Chicago in 1 87 1, and later in St. 
Louis, and elsewhere. Among the earlier ones was the Barber Match Company of Akron, 
Ohio, established in 1847. This factory is the largest in the country, if not in the world, having 
a capacity of 100,000,000 matches per day. Other factories also started in the East and 
West. In 1 88 1 29 of these were incorporated as 
the Diamond Match Company, a corporation 
which has grown to be one of the most successful 
manufacturing enterprises on the continent. It 
has a capital of $6,000,000, upon which dividends 
are regularly paid. The Diamond Match Com- 
pany has, besides its factory at Akron, others at 
Boston, Westville, Wilmington, Detroit, St. 
Louis, and Oshkosh, and smaller ones elsewhere. 
The company's executive ofiices are in the Pull- 
man Building, Chicago. The matches in use in every nook and corner of this country arc 
almost exclusively those produced by the Diamond Match Company. The Diamond Match 
Company consumes 27,000,000 feet of pine lumber in the manufacture of matches annually, 
and 20 tons of paper and straw-board a day, all of which it manufactures. It has a tract of 
white pine in nearly one body of 400,000,000 feet, enough for many years' supply. 

Cooperage deserves menHon among the important and valuable manufactures. It rep- 
resents an extensive industry, and the achieve- 
ments of to-day in this line compared with the 
^^ efforts of 20 years ago seem almost incredible. 
The Cincinnati Cooperage Company daily pro- 
duces 6,000 complete and perfect packages. 
Their products are the highest grades of tight 
work, made from the choicest white' oak only, 
and embracing packages for beer, ale, whisky, 
wine, lard, and lead. This concern is the largest 
of the kind in the world. Their plant at Cincin- 
nati covers ten acres ; and here they employ 500 
CINCINNATI. CINCINNATI cooPERAGL com-- men, theyearly pay-roll reaching $600,000. The 



^=^ 




. U U MATCH C0^ F 




686 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CINCINNATI 



Stock of timber in their yards is never less than 5,000,000 staves, and the yearly consumption 
is many times that quantity. They also use enormously of other materials, one large item 
being hoop-iron. They own extensive tracts covering thousands of acres of the best white- 
oak sections of Indiana, Kentucky, and Tennessee. In these localities they have mills con- 
tinually making staves, and giving employment there to 1,000 people. Their stock is mostly 
transported to Cincinnati by water, their own barges and steamboats being occupied in this 
work. Outside towing service is also largely employed. The investment of this concern is 
over $1,000,000, and their large trade is due principally to the superiority of their products. 
Their appliances and processes are mostly their own inventions, and are used exclusively by 
themselves, so that no competition can interfere with the Cincinnati Cooperage Company. 

No city in the West is better equipped with ma- 
chine-builders than is Cincinnati. Iron-working 
machines are made by several firms, and the wood- 
working machinery industry is represented by J. A. 
Fay & Co., the leading house in America in this 
line of machinery. In place of laborious methods of 
reducing lumber into the thousands of various forms 
in which it is used, this concern is furnishing improveil 
machinery in the way of planing, mortising, tenon- 
ing, molding, sawing, and other machines that ren- 
der the work of preparing the material and putting it together simply mechanical. J. A. 
Fay & Co. were the first to introduce these improvements on an important scale, their 
career dating back to 1834. In the year i866 the firm of J. A. Fay & Co. was incorporated 
into a stock company, and it has a paid-in capitalization of $500,000. The plant occupies 
several buildings, and covers a floor-space of about seven acres, where over 400 men arc 
employed. Their output comprises between 300 and 400 different kinds of machines for 
use in wood reduction. They have taken over 300 medals of gold, silver, and bronze at 
various international and State expositions. At Paris, in 1889, they were awarded the 
"Grand Prix," it being the first time that so distinguished an honor had been conferred 
upon any one distinctively engaged in the production of this class of machinery. W. Howard 
Doane, president of the company, received the decoration of the Legion of Honor, conferred 
by the French Government in acknowledgment of the many important inventions he has 
placed before the world. They have established branch-houses in Chicago and St. Louis, 
and have special representatives in the most important cities in the States, and at London, 
Paris, Hamburg, Sydney, and Melbourne. 

Two questions which are receiving much attention from the health departments of all 
cities are those of ventilation and sewage. The improvements made in the latter are mani- 
fest. There are several different systems, but it has been demonstrated in numerous cases 
and in different countries that the use of sewer-pipe is far the best. The city of Akron is 
noticeable for the manufacture of an excellent vitrified pipe, used for sewers and drains. As 
the train draws into the city large quantities of pipe maybe seen piled up in extensive yards. 
Likewise in yards in all the great cities of the Union Akron sewer-pipe can be obtained. 
T^he Akron Sewer-Pipe Company is the oldest and best-known manufacturer of this pipe, 
being the original and sole manufacturers of the celebrated "Standard Akron Sewer-Pipe." 

In 1848, D. E. Hill, the president and general 
manager, made his first piece of pipe ; and he 
has been identified with this industry ever since. 
The present plant covers 25 acres, and the an- 
nual output is about 2,000 carloads. The capi- 
tal stock of the company is $200,000. The 
managers of the Akron Sewer-Pipe Company 
AKRON : AKRON SEWER-PIPE COMPANY, also owH and control the Hill Sewer-Pipe 




THE STATE OF OHIO. 



687 




AKRON CEREAL MILLS OF THE 
HUMACHER MILLING COMPANY. 



Company, whose works adjoin those of the former company. 
Besides being the oldest industry of this kind, the Akron 
Sewer-Pipe Company does the largest business. 

The superfine quality of cereal products is a credit to the 
enterprise of American- manufacturers. Their nutriment 
and deliciousness are such that they can be used at the break- 
fast-table to the absolute exclusion of meat, and throughout 
the land there is hardly any food so acceptable to all mem- 
bers of the family, as a dish of porridge made of 
rolled avena, parched farinose or rolled wheat. 
These and other goods in that line are exten- 
sively manufactured by the Y. Schumacher Mill- 
ing Company, of Akron, Ohio, its president, 
Ferdinand Schumacher, now commonly known as 
The Oat-meal King, being the pioneer oat-meal 
manufacturer of the United States. He began on 
a small scale in 1856, and, gradually increasing 
his facilities, lost half a million dollars by a de- 
structive fire on the morning of March 6, 18S6. 
Nothing daunted, he immediately chartered a com- 
pany with an authorized capital of $2,000,000. The plant consists of five mills, converting 
daily 14,000 bushels of wheat, oats, corn, barley, rye, and buckwheat into choice food for 
man and beast. To keep sufficient stock, and handle its grain to best advantage, the com- 
pany has three elevators, a special giain-cleaning house, a dryhouse and a cooper-shop. 
Running night and day, the firm employs 300 men and 70 girls, putting up cereals in one 
and two pound packages. The annual output amounts to $3,000,000. The excellence of 
these products was recognized at the Paris Exposition in 1867, at Philadelphia in 1876, 
and wherever exhibited, so that to-day the F. Schumacher Milling Company is not only 
the pioneer but by far the foremost representative of this great industry. 

A product of the most essential value to painters is white lead, which should, on 
account of its body, be the base of all first-class paints. The old and only reliable 
method of preparing it is known as the "Old Dutch Process." In this method of manu- 
facture, refined lead is melted into thin sheets called buckles, and put into pots, in the bot- 
tom cups of which acetic acid is placed. Rows of these pots, massed into what are called 
tiers, are covered with spent tan in "corroding houses," and allowed to stand for 90 days. 
The latent heat in the tan volatilizes the acid in the pots, which attacks the lead, converting 
it into acetate, which is re-converted, by the decomposition of the tan, into a basic carbon- 
ate of lead. This carbonate of lead is then collected and ground in water through mill- 
stones, and dried, after which it is mixed with linseed oil and re-ground, forming commer- 
cial white lead. The Eckstein White Lead Company, of Cincinnati, is one of the largest 

companies in this business in the country, ^ 

and their universally known "Phoenix" 
white lead is among the unsurpassed pro- 
ducts in this line. Their plant covers four 
acres, on which are a group of substantial 
brick buildings. The machinery is all of 
the most improved pattern, great care hav- 
ing been taken in designing it, to guard 
the workmen from the poisonous lead dust. 
The capital stock at the time of incorpora- 
tion, 1880, was $500,000, but it has been 
raised, subsequently to $1,000,000, 




CINCINNATI ; ECKSTEIN WHITE LEAD CO. 



688 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




The Eckstein White Lead Company, established in 1837, is also one of the oldest concerns 
in the West for manufacturing white lead. 

A penny saved is a penny earned, and time is money. The combination of these two 
proverbs no doubt accounts for the hurry of all industrial methods. Even 
in painting this change is marked. No longer does the painter pour his 
linseed nil into a keg containing dry color or white lead, and stir for 

an hour, imperfectly mixing his 
paint. Now this work is done by 
machinery, and both paint and 
colors come more or less prepared 
ready for use. The Sherwin-Wil- 
liams Company of Cleveland, Chi- 
cago and New York are the fore- 
most in their line, as making 
thoroughly reliable paints and colors 
is at Cleveland, and is very extensive, 
in 1873, and the growth of their busi- 

Sher- 



CLEVELAND : THE SHERWIN-WILLIAMS CO. 

for all uses. Their principal factory 

The company began manufacturing 

ness has been phenomenal. They manufacture the prepared paints, which bear the 

win- Williams" name, oil colors, fresco colors, and quick-drying coach colors. They do all 

the work at their own factories, including the manufacture of tin cans, and printing of 

labels. The Cleveland plant consists of several large brick buildings, connected with each 

other by bridges, all located in the business center, with the best of receiving and shipping 

facilities both by rail and water. The Sherwin-Williams Company have also branch works 

and warehouses at Chicago, where all their Western business is conducted, and for the 

Eastern States at New York, with warehouses also in Boston, San Francisco and elsewhere. 

The business of D. H. Baldwin & Co. was started in 1862 by D. H. Baldwin, whose 
wide experience in Ohio and Kentucky as a teacher of vocal music, and later in the public 
schools of Cincinnati, gave him a knowledge of the wants of the people, and enabled him 
rapidly to develop his business on broad lines then unknown to the piano and organ trade. 
Lucien Wulsin entered Mr. Baldwin's employ early in 1866, and in 1873 they formed the 
firm of D. H. Baldwin & Co. As the business increased, and a larger territory came un- 
der its influence, other employees. Van Buren, Armstrong, and Clarence Wulsin, were 
admitted to the firm, and the business was gradually formed into three great divisions — 
that in Indianapolis in 1872, and in Louisville in 1878. By these divisions, each managed 
by a resident partner, the trade is systematically controlled and pushed over the fertile and 
populous territory drained by the Ohio, Cumberland and Tennessee Rivers, including Ohio, 
Indiana, Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, West Virginia, and parts of Georgia, Alabama, 
Mississippi and Arkansas. High commercial integrity, care for the interest of its patrons, 
and systematic attention to its business, have made the firm one of the largest and most dis- 
tinguished in the country in the piano and organ trade ; especially distinguished by the 

thorough and complete system of distribution and 
sale, which it was the first to develop in this line. 
Its principal divisions with branches at prominent 
points and closely related agencies permeate every 
part of the territory, and offer to the most dis- 
tant buyer all advantages in selection, prices and 
terms which can be secured in the great competi- 
tive markets. The business thus partakes of the 
triple quality of the factor distributing manufac- 
turers' goods, the dealer actually supplying the 
wants of the retail buyer, and the banker who 
CINCINNATI : D. H. BALDWIN & CO. rcccivcs and handles the proceeds of the sales. 




THE STATE OF OHIO. 



689 




CINCINNATI : JOHN SHILLITO COMPANY. 



One of the most notable dry-goods, or rather de- 
partment, establishments in the United States is the 
John Shillito Company of Cincinnati. It was for a 
long time known as the "A. T. Stewart of the 
West ; " for in the best days of Stewart, the grandest 
dry-goods house west of New York was the Shillito 
establishment. And it is noteworthy that even to- 
day, 13 years after its erection, it is rarely equalled. 
It is not only of immense proportions, but it has 
grandeur seldom found in kindi"ed places. While 
the business is nominally dry-goods, it is in fact a 
bazaar, wherein can be found anything needed by an 
individual or a household, not only of the ordinary grades, but also of the finest quality, 
everything from a paper of pins to a handsomely upholstered parlor-suit. Few business 
houses have a better record. Over 60 years ago the business was started by John Shillito. 
He was succeeded in 1879 by his sons, and they in turn by the John Shillito Company, in- 
corporated in 1882. The capital stock of $2,000,000 is all paid in, besides which a great 
surplus is invested. The buildings erected m 1878 have a floor-space of seven acres, and 
are of brick, six stories high, with basement and sub-basement, occupied entirely by the 
company. In addition to this, they own a large six-story building, in which are located the 
various workrooms of the establishment. Over 1,000 persons are employed. The building 
is lighted by electricity. The John Shillito Company is not only a preeminent retail 
establishment, but it is one of Cincinnati's leading wholesale houses, its dry-goods business 
extending into many of the Ohio-Valley States and throughout the South. 

Among the most conspicuous wholesale and retail establishments of the interior States 
is that of A. E. Burkhardt & Company, of Cincinnati. The firm has an international repu- 
tation for the rare skill displayed in its fashionable creations, foremost among which are 
Alaska sealskin and high-class cloth garments. The store has admirable appointments, 
and the most complete and modern facilities for the transaction of the business in all its 
ramifications. The annual output of the wholesale and retail departments is enormous. 
They are the most extensive exporters of raw fur skins in America. Their wholesale de- 
partments supply the greater part of the Middle, Western, Southwestern, and many Eastern 
States, with the celebrated "Burkhardt" sealskin garments 
and fine cloth cloaks, for women, misses and children. 
The chief retail departments are replete with sealskin gar- 
ments, furs, millinery, cloaks, men's hats and lingerie for 
Vi^omen. The business is under the personal management 
of A. E. Burkhardt, whose knowledge of furriery covers a 
period of a quarter of a century. He is in constant com- 
munication with representatives in Paris, Berlin, London, 
and Leipsic ; and though Cincinnati is an inland city, he 
brings to its citizens the refined and newest productions from 
the fashionable centers of the Old World, and has established 
the Queen City of the W^est as one of the few fur centers in 
this country. It is questionable whether there is a more 
handsomely fitted-up retail establishment in America. 
Many a housewife lemembers how she used to stop the baker with a can and two cents 
for some yeast. It was not until 1869 that any other kind of yeast was introduced in this 
country or in Canada. Before that it was made of potatoes and hops principally. After 
the era of the liquid yeast came the dry-yeast period ; and then the era of the compressed 
yeast cake, which still o'btains. This was introduced by Fleischmann & Co., in 1869. The 
plant i$ located at Cincinnati, and covers 25 acres. Five or six thousand people 




BURKHARDT 



690 



k'TXG'S IIAXDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CINCINNATI : FLEISCHMANN i. 



arc in the employ of the firm ; and 4,000 bushels 
<jf grain are used daily in their many factories 
all over the Union. The yeast is made of rye 
and malt, and has received several awards, in- 
cluding the highest award in the Centennial Ex- 
position, in 1876. The capital employed by 
the firm is about $1,500,000, and besides their 
large plant in Cincinnati they have one of 
nearly as large size in Brooklyn (N. Y. ). They 
are the largest manufacturers in their line in 
the country ; and 1,000 wagons belonging to the 
company distribute every week, in all the cities 
of the Union, 3,500,000 cakes and 70,000 pounds of compressed yeast. In 1883 the business 
passed into the sole control of Charles and Maximilian Fleischmann, two brothers, origin- 
ally from Austria, the land of light, palatable, sweet, and nutritious bread. The dainty little 
tin-foiled and yellow-labelled yeast-cakes are welcome visitors in millions of households. 
A large part of the theatrical advertising is a work of high art, and the famous Stro- 
bridge Lithographing Company, of Cincinnati, has fairly earned the highest position in fine 
art lithography for show purposes. It stands first in this country and Europe in this line 
of work. All first-class amusement enterprises have frequent 
recourse to this attractive class of advertising. When colored 
lithography was first adopted, the work was not as artistic as it 
is now. The Strobridge Lithographing Company were proba- 
l)Iy the pioneers in producing art-lithography on a large scale, 
and the bill-boards and hoardings of both continents have been 
covered with bold and unique art works, executed by them, 
which would have been considered of rare merit for works of 
far greater durability than the ever-changing bill-boards. The 
corporation dates from 1867. The capital stock amounts to 
.$300,000. They employ 125 men at their fine five-story brick 
structure, which covers a large space. The annual pay-roll 
amounts to $150,000. Most of the material used is domestic, but some grades of ink and 
all the lithographic stones come from Europe. While they make a specialty of lithographs 
for circuses and theaters and other amusements, they also have an extensive patronage for 
work for all commercial purposes. The Strobridge Company have several branch offices, 
and are taking orders in New York, London, and Sydney, Australia. A connoisseur can 
at a glance usually recognize the work of the Strobridge Company by its artistic excellence, 
in design, coloring, and adaptability to the purpose for which it is intended. 

The magnitude of the western farms is a matter of wonder to an Easterner when his eyes 
first wander over the seemingly never-ending fields of grain. These immense fields made 
farming not only a systematic, but a scientific 
industry. Threshing is done by machinery, win- 
nowing is likewise, machines are now used tc sow 
the seed, and reapers drive through the waving 
fields of grain and accomplish more in three hours 
than by the old way of harvesting could be done in 
a week. The improved mowing, reaping,! and 
binding machines of to-day cut the grass and 
grain upon these immense fields ; and the most im- 
portant part of these machines is the cutting ap- 
paratus, the mower knives, serrated sickles and 
sections, the manufacture of which is carried on akson -. the whitman i barnes company. 




'^^iSk_ 



CINCINNATI ; THE STROBRIDGE 
LITHOGRAPHING COMPANY. 





CLEVELAND : NATIONAL CARBON COMPANY. 



THE STATE OF OHIO. 691 

as a specialty. The largest manufacturer of these goods in the United States, or in the 
world, is the Whitman & Barnes Manufacturing Company, of Akron, O., and Syracuse, 
N. Y. The company was incorporated in 1877, with a capital of $400,000; but to meet the 
wants of their business this capital has since been increased to $2,000,000. Additional 
factories have been put in operation at Canton (O.), and St. Catherine's (Ont.), and to better 
supply the wants of their large trade, they now have established branch houses at Boston, 
Philadelphia, Cincinnati, Kansas City, Chicago, and San JFrancisco, where large stocks of 
their goods are carried, from whence they supply their many customers throughout the 
United States. Their foreign trade is supplied direct from the factories. The present firm 
is the result of the combination of the Whitman & Miles Manufacturing Company, of 
Fitchburg, Mass., and George Barnes & Co., of Syracuse, N. Y., who entered the business 
35 years ago. In addition to manufacturing knives, sickles, and sections, they are the 
largest manufacturers of spring cotters in the world, and make many specialties and repairs. 
The improvements and discoveries in electricity have been so marked in the past decade 
that the public generally takes it as a matter of course that there should be something new 
every day or two. Electric-lighting has got to such 
a magnitude that it is considered less a luxury than 
a necessity. When the output of electrical appa- 
ratus was smaller the companies made all the parts 
themselves. Now the consumption is so enormous 
that it is not practical to follow this rule, and 
among other parts the carbons are made a spe- 
cialty. The National Carbon Company, of Cleve- 
land, is the largest company in the world that manufactures tlaese carbons. The company 
succeeded the Boulton Carbon Company, and was incorporated under the Ohio laws in 
April, 1886. Their offices and works cover several acres of ground. The manufacture of 
these carbons is peculiar ; the ingredient is lamp-black, and it is first molded or forced by 
great pressure into a mold and then baked. Frequently the carbons are cored. The com- 
pany furnishes the carbons for the Statue of Liberty, on Bedloe's Island, in New-York 
Marbor. These are of special size, being | of an inch in diameter, as against -^-^ to \ an 
inch for ordinary lighting. They also furnish the Cowles Electric Smelting and Aluminum 
Works with special carbons. These convey the heat necessary to melt aluminum, which 
requires more heat than anything extant. These carbons are 50 inches long. The National 
Carbon Co. is now doing the largest business in their line in the world. 

Together with the advent of the highest degree of perfection yet attained in illumi- 
nation, that of the electrii- light, a growing demand for the more primitive style, that of 

candles, is evident. It is now quite the thing to 
have a handsome candelabra at the dining-room 
table, and the coach-lights are growing more and 
more popular. There always was, and probably 
always will be, a steady demand for church use. 
The candles now used, however, resemble very 
'slightly the candles of 50 years ago. Those were 
"dips," while the candles of the present day are 
manufactured by machinery. The Emery Candle 
Company, of Cincinnati, are the largest manu- 
facturers of machine-made candles in this coun- 
cingin:jati ; emery candle company. jj.y_ 'j-^ey have works at Ivorydale which cover 

ten acres of ground. The company was incorporated in 1887, with a capital of $500,000. 
Previous to this, however, the firm was in existence back for some 50 years. Their spe- 
cialties are triple-pressed candles, which are hard and white. The Emery family, who 
established and operate these works, are among the wealthiest families of the city. 





692 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

At Columbus is the interesting plant of the Jeffrey Manufacturing Company, famous for 
the manufacture of special mining machinery, made under patents covering inventions of 
Mr. Jeffrey and his associates. The Jeffrey coal-mining machines and drills are run by 

compressed air and electricity ; and the 
company furnish also complete mine equi- 
page, including electric motor cars for 
haulage in mines. They are also exten- 
sive jnanufacturers of the chain belting, 
which has proved of such great value in 
transmission of power for elevators, con- 
veyors, and other uses. These belts are 
used in all lines of industry, coal and ore 
elevators, river and harbor dredgers, and 
conveyors for saw-dust, dry and spent tan, 
COLUMBUS : JEFFREY MANUFACTURING COMPANY. straw and pulp, orcs, coal, and clay. 

Many large factories use them. Besides chain-belting and coal-mining machinery and min- 
ing engines, they make several mechanical specialties. Their plant covers several acres, 
and is completely equipped with the newest and best machinery. They employ 150 men. 
The product of this company is shipped to every State and almost every country. 

Iron and metal cutting and punching, such as is common in boiler-work, ship-building, car- 
shops, architectural iron-work, wagon, 
carriage and implement works, has 
grown to such dimensions that there 
is a universal demand for power 
punches and shears. The power of 
some of these machines is enormous, 
and to see one of them punch a four- 
inch hole through a bar of iron two 
inches in thickness, or cut off a four- 
inch square bar of iron or steel, with 
the ease that one could drive an awl 
through a pine shingle, or sever a 

cotton wrapping twine, gives an idea Hamilton : long & alstatter company. 

of strength and usefulness. The Long & AUstatter Company, of Hamilton, are the most 
extensive builders of punching and shearing machinery in this country, and to meet the 
largely diversified wants of the users of such machines for light as well as heavy work, make 
a complete assortment of punches and shears in over 350 different styles and sizes. The 
company was organized in 1869, and incorporated in 1878, with a capitalization of $2CXD, - 
000. Their works are very large, covering several acres of ground, and consist of one main 
building, four stories high, 230 feet front, with four ells, each 136 feet long, running back 
from it, the machniL ^Imps occupymg two of them. Near the main shop is the foundry 
- ~ - and pattern shop, the former equipped with 

heavy cranes for handling castings. Besides 
power punching and shearing machines, they 
manufacture straightening and bending ma- 
chines, and machines for welding tires. They 
have also a valuable line of cultivator.s, sulky 
hay-rakes, and corn and fodder cutters, all of 
which are extensively used. 

At Sandusky is one of the factories of the 
American Wheel Company, of Chicago, which 
8ANDU8KY : AMERICAN WHEEL CO. now controls the whccl industry. 




- ..=A-^-_-V- Tr 






HI5T0RY. 



STATISTICS. 



Settled at Guthrie. 

Settled in 1889 

Founded by .... Americans, 
Opened for settlement, . . 1889 

Organized as a Territory, . 1890 

Population in 1890 (U. S. 
Census), . . .... 61,834 

Indians, 5,5Sq 

Vote for Delegate (1S90), 

Republican 4,478 



Oklahoma was originally 
part of the Indian Territory, 
set apart for the five abo- 
riginal tribes from Georgia, 
Florida, Alabama and Miss- 
issippi. The eastern part 
afforded more than land 
enough for them, and the 
remoter and less desirable 

west lay empty and unoccupied. The revolt of many of 

the Five Nations during the Secession War, and their con- 
quest by Federal troops, necessitated a re-affirming of the 

grants and patents made by the Government to the tribes. 

In this new adjustment permission was given to the United 

States to buy the unused lands in the central and western 

parts of the Indian Territory, for the purpose of settling 

freedmen and wild Indians upon them. The Government 

purchased millions of acres of their unoccupied western 

lands from the Cherokees, Seminoles and Creeks, and 

placed upon this domain several wild tribes. The central 

part of the Indian Territory, known as Oklahoma, and 

covering 2,000,000 acres, came within this purchase, and 

remained unoccupied. The whites claimed it as public 

land, available for settlement ; but the Creeks maintained 

that they sold it only for Indian and freedmen's occupancy. 

In 1889, therefore, the Government re-purchased Okla- 
homa from the Creeks, at a greatly advanced price. The 

white inhabitants of the neighboring States had long 

looked upon these lands with desire, and after 1879 fre- 
quently moved across the border to occupy them, under 

the lead of Capt. Payne and other adventurers. But as 

often as they entered the coveted domain they were ejected 

by the United-States troops patrolling the frontier. At 

last, on April 22, 1889, President Harrison proclaimed the 

opening for settlement of 1,400,000 acres of Creek land and 500,000 acres of Seminole 

land. Great processions of "boomers" poured into the new territory, and within half a day 

the cify of Guthrie arose, with 10,000 inhabitants, and other cities sprang up on the prairies. 



Democratic, 

Banks, 

Area (square miles), . . . 
Delegate to Congress, . . 

Newspapers, 

Latitude 34° tc 

Longitude, . . 96° 10 i 
Mean Temperature, . . 
Post-offices, 



2.446 

6 

39,030 



TEN CHIEF PLACKS AND THKIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of i8qo.) 

Guthrie (with E. and W. 

Guthrie) 5,333 

Oklahoma City, 4, 151 

Kingfisher, ',134 

Norman, 787 

Stillwater, 480 

Frisco 327 

Edmond, 294 

El Reno, 28=; 

Reno City, 231 

Lexington, 223 



694 



A'LWrS IIASDBOOK OF THE VNtTED STATES. 




CHEYENNE CAMP. 

In tlie west begin the Great 



The Name O-kla-homa was suggested by the Choctaw chiets in \ 
council, in 1882, and their delegate at Washington had it applied to this v * 
region. It means "The Home of the Red Man, the Choctaw Ohla 
signifying 'Red,' and //(?;«a meaning 'Home.'" 

Governors. — George W. Steele, 1890-1 ; Abraham J. Seay, 1892-4. 
The Governor and Secretary are appointed by the President ; and tho 
legislature is composed of 13 councillors and a house of 
26 representatives, elected for two years, and meeting foi 
60 days every other year. The Supreme Court has thiee 
justices ; and there are several minor courts. The laws aic 
based on those of Nebraska. 

Descriptive. — Oklahoma is about the size of Ohio, and 
borders on Texas and Colorado, Kansas and the Indian Tei 
ritory. The face of the country is diversified with long 
green valleys, forests of oak, and many flashing streams. 
Plains, a long, rolling, almost treeless and arid region, which slopes imperceptibly upward 
to the Rocky Mountains, and is covered with bunch-grass and sage-brush, yucca and cactus, 
and saline deposits. The plateaus of the north rise nearly 4,000 feet above the sea. The 
country has a milder climate than that of Kansas, except for its cold northerly winds ; and 
is thought to be well adapted for raising corn and other cereals, millet and wild hay, cotton 
and tobacco, and fruits. 

The Atchison, Topeka & Santa-Fe Railway has a line running south from Arkansas 
City (Kansas) to Fort Worth and Galveston, crossing Oklahoma and the Chickasaw 
Nation. Another line traverses the Cherokee Outlet from \| Kansas into the Pan 
Handle of Texas. 

The original Oklahoma district, west of 
the Creek Nation, contains the chief towns 
in the Territory, Guthrie, Kingfisher, Okla- 
homa City, Norman, and others, and large 
areas of farming land. 

The greater part of Oklahoma is still 
occupied by wild tribes of Indians, who rove 
up and down over lands set apart for them in 1867-8, but not patented to them. They recei\ e 
regular supplies of money, clothing and provisions from the Government, and are ruled 
by agents appointed by the President, strengthened by considerable garxisons of regular 
troops near the agencies. The wild tribes are hardly touched by civilization (except in its 
vices), and still assemble for their cruel sun-dances and pagan festivals, practice polygamy 
and girl-selling, and look with haughty scorn upon their comfortable, peaceable and well- 
to-do brethren of the Five Nations. Considerable areas have been recently purchased 

from the tribes by the Government, and as fast as pos- 
sible the individual Indians are being allotted suitable 
tracts of land in severalty. In eastern Oklahoma are 
the homes of the 400 Mexican Kickapoos, opposing 
allotment and schools, and living in tepees. Here also 
dwell the lowas in rude tepees ; 650 Absentee Shawnees, 
thrifty farmers, in log huts ; 500 Citizen Pottawatomies, 
mainly French half-breed farmers; and 500 Sacs and Foxes 
of Illinois and Wisconsin, with whom are many Omahas 
of Nebraska and Chippewas of Minnesota. These tribes 
have been allotted lands in severalty ; and on September 
22, 1891, President Harrison proclaimed the vast unoccu- 
poNCA WIGWAMS. ' picd parts of their reservations opened to settlement. 




COMANCHE CAMP. 





CADDO CAMP. 



THE TERRITORY OE OA'LANOAJA. 695 

The Cheyennes, 2,229 ''^ number, and 
Arapahoes (1,272), have their agency near 
Fort Reno, where six companies of soldiers 
are in garrison. In their domain are the 
Antelope Buttes, a group of sandstone hills, 
for generations well-known landmarks for 
travellers on the Plains. The Cheyennes 
are Algonquins, driven westward from the 
Red River of the North by the Sioux. 
About 50 years ago part of the tribe mi- 
grated, and became allied with the Arapahoes, the remainder (Northern Cheyennes) allying 
themselves with the Sioux. After the Colorado militia massacred 100 of them (largely 
women and children), near Fort Lyon, in 1864, the tribe flew to arms, and the war that 
ensued cost the Government $30,000,000 and hundreds of lives. In 1867-8 Hancock and 
Custer destroyed their villages. The Cheyennes and Arapahoes are turbulent and intract- 
able, and for several years have been retrograding, abandoning their farms and other civil- 
izing efforts. In 1892 their reservation was opened to settlement by presidential proclama- 
tion, the Indians ^ having been placed on allotted lands. 50rOOO people moved 

into it, to establish their homes on the old 
domains of the ghost-dancing tribes. 

The pleasant country in the south, between 
the 98th meridian and the North Fork of the 
Red River, covers an area of 4,600 square 
miles, and is dominated by the Wichita Moun- 
tains, a singularly picturesque and beautiful 
range, with granite cliffs and pyramids. Their 
chief peaks, two leagues apart, are Mount 
Scott, 1,200 feet above the plain, and Mount 
Sheridan, with its craggy granite peaks ; and 
Mount Webster and the old-time Rainy Moun- 
tain are famous landmarks in the same range. 
About 1,100 Kiowas, 1,600 Comanches and 
350 Apaches occupy this great domain of smil- 
ing valleys and bright streams. Their capital, Anadarko, has 500 inhabitants. Half the 
men on the reservation are farmers, and there are several denominational schools at various 
points. Fort Sill is a seven-company post near the Wichita Mountains. Northward, be- 
tween the Canadian and Washita Rivers, extends the reservation allotted to 300 Wichita 
Indians, who are dependent on the Kiowa and Comanche agency. The Wichitas are more 
advanced and civilized than the other wild tribes, and have farms and stock ranges. 

The Comanches are of the Shoshone family, and once numbered 12,000, commanding 
the country from Mexico to Montana. They are the best horsemen in the world, and, 
withal, fierce warriors, whose prowess Osage and Paw- 
nee, Mexican and American have often felt. Many of 
these fierce nomads are still wandering free over the 
Plains. Elsewhere in this reservation live fragments 
of various ancient tribes, 90 Delawares of Pennsyl- 
vania, 540 Caddoes of Texas, 145 Towaconies, 29 
Wacoes of Texas, and 62 Keechies. 

Greer County covers 2,600 square miles of good 
land in southwestern Oklahoma, occupied by great 
cattle-ranches and by half a score of villages and 
5,000 farmers. Mangum and Navajoe are the chief a boomers home in Oklahoma. 




ARAPAHOES. 




696 



KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE VNITFJ^ STATES. 




OKLAHOMA CITY. 



towns. Texas erected a county govern- 
ment here, and rules the domain as a 
part of her territory ; but the United 
States refuses to acknowledge this claim. 
The Cherokee Outlet covers 8,500 
square miles, in the north, fit mainly for 
cattle-ranges, being afflicted with a scarc- 
ity of water, and with deposits of salt, 
shifting sand and gypsum hills. It was 
conveyed to the Cherokees by ancient 
treaties, and by the patent of 1838, and 
confirmed by the treaty of 1S66, being intended for an avenue by which they could reach 
the hunting-grounds of the Rocky Mountains and Great Plains, on their own territory. In 
1 891 the United States purchased the Outlet for $8,595,736, making the little Cherokee 
nation the richest on earth. For many years the tribe leased this domain to the Cherokee- 
Strip Live-Stock Association, for $100,000 annually. Camp Supply is a six-company post 
in the western part. The eastern part of the Cherokee Outlet, a rocky and hilly region, 
was bought by the United States, for the homes of 1,500 uncivilized Osages, occupying 
2,300 square miles, with their capital at Pawhuska ; the Kansas tribe, 200 persons; the 
-^-^-^ , - Pawnees, numbering 800 ; the Otoes, 320 ; 

the Missourias, and the Tonkawas. The 
Cheyennes and Arapahoes also have a claim 
to a part of the Outlet, as granted to them 
by the Government. 



f ~ 





The Cherokee Outlet extends westward only 



THE RUSH ACROSS THE BORDER. 

The Chilocco Indian Industrial School 
was founded by the Government in 1883, 
near Arkansas City, and teaches farming 
and mechanical trades to 200 Indian youths, 
to the meridian of 100°, because, up to the Mexican War, that was the western boundary of 
the United States, on this parallel. 

No Man's Land (called also the Public Land Strip, or the Neutral Strip) is a domain of 
3,700,000 acres, lying west of 100°. It was ceded by Texas to the United States, because 
it lay north of Mason and Dixon's Line (36° 30'), and hence could not be taken into the 
Union as a part of a slave State. It long remained outside of the jurisdiction of the courts, 
and was infested by desperadoes, many of whom were shot by the citizens. In i886 the 
12,000 inhabitants organized the Territory of Cimmaron, but it was not recognized by Con- 
gress. In 1889 the iurisdictions of the United-States courts at Muscogee (I. T. ) and Paris 
(Texas) were extended over this domain, which became a part of Oklahoma. The metro- 
polis of this strange land is Beaver City, among the _- --~-:— ■ 
white sand-hills of the Cimmaron Valley ; and here are 
found two churches, a Grand- Army post, an opera- 
house, and a bi'isk newspaper. There are more 
than a score of towns and villages in other parts 
of No Man's Land, which is 167^ miles long, and 
345- miles wide. Much of the region is covered 
with white buffalo-grass, and affords good oppor- 
tunities tor grazing. chilocco Indian industrial schoou 





Astoria. 

iSii 

Yorkers. 



le, 



52.465 
90,923 

17-1,768 

163,07'; 
11.693 

144,265 
30.503 

103,381 
71.387 

313.767 
1.8 
59,629 
33.291 
26,522 
None. 



1,701 
31 
710 

1,428 
185 



A century ago five power- 
ful nations laid claim to the 
domain between California 
and Alaska. Spain main- 
tained that it was hers by 
virtue of the discoveries by 
Ferello in 1543 and Aguilar 
in 1603, and by more care- 
ful explorations of Perez, 
Heceta, Cuadra, and others in 1774-5. Russia claimed the 
country as far down as Tillamook Bay, as the reward of 
her seamen's daring voyages ; and France cherished a hazy 
title on account of her explorations westward from Canada 
into Montana. Great Britain also claimed Oregon by vir- 
tue of the discoveries of Capt. Cook, in 1778, and Vancou- 
ver's surveys in 1792; and the Hudson-Bay Company 
moved into Oregon with its trading-posts and filled the 
country with adventurous fur-traders. In 1789 Spain erect- 
ed forts on the coast, and seized British trading-vessels as 
trespassers ; but in the following year she was forced to 
concede, by the Convention of Nootka, that traders and 
settlers under the English flag should have equal rights 
with Spaniards in the Northwestern country. 

When the United States purchased Louisiana, it was 
held by some statesmen that this domain included also the 
Northwest Coast ; but President Jefferson, through defer- 
ence to Spain (which claimed it by discovery), forbore to 
push our frontier beyond the Rocky Mountains. Gen. ¥. 
A. Walker (^Census of iSSo'), and the author of The Public 
Domain, attribute our title to Oregon to the Louisiana pur- 
chase. By the Florida Treaty of 1819, His Catholic Maj- 
esty ceded to the Republic "his rights, claims and preten- 
sions" to the territory north of 4.2°. The Russian claims 
south of 54°40' were ceded to Great Britain and the Amer- 
ican Republic in 182 1-5. Mr. Blaine bases the American title on the discovery of the 
Columbia River, in 1792, by Capt. Robert Gray, in the Boston ship Columbia, and its ex- 
ploration, from its sources to the sea, by Lewis and Clarke in 1805; and on the original 



STATISTICS. 



Settled at ... . 
Settled in ... . 
Founded by . . . 
Admitted as a .Stale, 
Population in i85o. 

In 1870, .... 

In 1880, .... 

White, . . . 

Colored, . . . 

American-born, 

P'oreign-born, . 

Males, . . . 

Females, . . 

In i8go (U. S. Censu 

Population to the square m 

Voting Population, . . . 

Vote for Harrison (1888I, 

Vote for Cleveland (1S88), 

Net State Debt 

Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . . $166,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 96,030 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 2 

Militia (Disciplined), 
Counties, .... 
Post-offices, . . . 
Railroads (miles), . 
Vessels, .... 

Tonnage, 53.317 

Manufactures (yearly), $10,879,982 

Operatives, 3,4?4 

Yearly Wages, . . . $1,636,566 
Farm Land (m acres), . . 4,428,712 

Farm-Land Values, $56,908,575 

Farm Products (yearly), $.3,234,548 
Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 40,012 

Newspapers, 146 

Latitude, .... 42" to 46°i5' N. 
Longitude, ii6''45' to i24°3o' W. 

Temperature, . . . — 39° to 110° 
Mean Temperature (Portland), 53° 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of i''90.) 

Portland, (6,385 

East Portland, . . 10,532 

Salem, 10,422 

Astoria 6,184 

Albina, 5,129 

Albany, 3.079 

Oregon City, 3,062 

Dalles, .3,029 

Baker City, 2,604 

Lagrande, 2,583 




HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

settlement of Astoria, in 1811. To these he adds the vaHd 
Spanish title, which passed to the United States by the 
Treaty of 1819. The theory of contiguity was also held 
by the Americans as strengthening their claim. The vast 
Oregon Country, whose ownership was thus left at issue 
between Great Britain and the United States, included 
Oregon, Washington and Idaho, and parts of Montana and 
Wyoming. But neither of the claimants knew or cared 
much for this remote and empty empire, and according to 
COLUMBIA RIVER : PILLARS OF HERCULES, the Convcntion of 1818 (indefinitely extended in 1827), 
the two powers agreed upon a joint occupancy and use of the disputed country by their 
citizens. Neither nation organized any form of civil government ; and the officers of the 
Hudson-Bay Company ruled the country, generally with wisdom and forbearance. The first 
trading-post on the Columbia waters was founded by the Missouri Fur Company, at Fort 
Henry, on Snake River (Idaho), in 1809. In 1810 Nathaniel Winship, representing a 
Boston company, entered the Columbia, and built a trading-post at Oak Point, 40 miles up. 
In 1832 Capt. N. J- Wyeth, of Massachusetts, established a fishery on Sauvies Island, where 
the Willamette River enters the Columbia ; and two years later the Methodist missionaries 
Jason and Daniel Lee founded a mission at Salem. In 1836 Dr. Marcus Whitman and the 
Rev. H. A. Spalding and their young wives (the first white women who crossed the Rocky 
Mountains) traversed the Plains with the annual convoy of the American Fur Company, 
and entered the Columbia Valley, where they founded a mission of the American Board. 
Whitman perceived that Oregon stood at the point of being lost to the United States, 
and (in 1842) to prevent this disaster rode on horseback, in winter, to Fort Hall, Great Salt 
Lake, Santa Fe, Bent's Fort (Pueblo) and St. Louis, and thence by stage to Washington, 
which he reached in five months. He urged upon Webster and Tyler the fact that Oregon 
was worth saving for the Union, and then returned. Immigrants from the States had 
reached Oregon in 1841 and 1842, and were followed in 1843 .^X ^ caravan of 200 wagons 
and 875 people from Missouri. Whitman and his companion, A. L. Lovejoy, overtook this 
great convoy and guided it to the Columbia shores. When they arrived, they found there 
a strong provisional government, formed by the 500 trappers, missionaries and immigrants 
of 1841-2, without Federal authority, but establishing executive, legislative and judicial 
powers for the preservation of law and order. In 1846 the joint occupation by Great Britain 
and the United States was terminated by notice of the latter power, and a treaty was 
negotiated conceding the country from 42'^ to 49° to the American Government. 

The Oregon pioneers had no organized civilization behind. them, but were hemmed in 
between the sea and the mountains, and menaced by hostile savages. The Hudson-Bay 
Company's Canadian trappers and their Indian wives and half-breed children formed a large 
element, and it was not until i860 that they abandoned Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia. 
The overland immigration poured thousands of Americans into Oregon, but many of them 
were drawn away by the California gold-fever. The Donation Land law, passed by Congress 
in 1850, did much to attract settlers. The erection of Oregon into a territory (in 1848) met 
with a strong opposition, and even Daniel Webster said that the region was "so far off that 

it could never be governed by the United States," and that r^^- — - _— ^- — ^ -_-,^-j^ ; 

a delegate to Congress "could not reach Washington until _ 1 

a year after the expiration of his term. " 

Joseph Lane, a veteran of the Mexican War, was for 
many years governor of, and delegate and senator from Ore- 
gon, and ran for vice-president in i860, Breckenridge being 
at the head of the ticket. When the Union seemed to some 
tobe on thepoint of dissolution, in 1861, agreat wave of patri- 
otic sentiment swept over the State. The United-States garri- mount hood. 




THE STATE OF OREGON. 



699 



.jm^ 



1=; -' -^.lA 




OREGON NATIONAL PARK : CRATE 



sons were sent East, and their places filled by the 
First Oregon Cavalry and other volunteers, who 
made many perilous campaigns against the Indians. 
The Name of Oregon is of uncertain meaning 
and origin. Bancroft (//«/. Oregon, Vol. i, pp. 
17-25) reviews the theories of the name, and con- 
cludes that it was invented from Indian words (or 
possibly heard) by Jonathan Carver, while in Min- . 
nesota in 1766, as belonging to the distant and un- 
known River of the West. The word Oregon was 
printed for the first time in Carver'' s Travels, in 1778; made famous by Bryant, in his 
poem of Thanatopsis, in 1819; and fastened upon the Northwestern Territory by Hall J. 
Kelly, a Boston school-master and western immigrant, in 1834. Prof. J. D. Whitney 
( Words and Places) maintains that the name was given by the Spaniards, Ortjon being 
an old Spanish word, meaning "big ear." The tribe of Pend' Oreilles (^Pendantcs 
Oreilles'), dwelling on the upper Columbia, at that time cherished the custom of enlarging 
their ears with ornaments, and causing them to hang down. J. H. Trumbull thinks that 
Oregon comes from the Algonquin word Wauregan, meaning "good" or "fair," and ap- 
plied to the Columbia River. Another theory derives it from the Spanish ioxxa. oi origa- 
man vnlgare, the Latin name of wild marjoram, which grows in abundance, 
"Where rolls the Oregon, and hears no sound 
Save its own dashings. " 

Oregon is called The Webfoot State, because of 
the humid climate of the coast counties. It is also 
known as The Sunset State, because it reaches a more 
westerly point than any other American common- 
wealth, except Washington (a newer State.) 

The Arms of Oregon bear a landscape, with an 
emigrant wagon, and a deer, beyond which opens the 
sea, bearing a steamship and a brig. Below these devices 
is a scroll, with The Union written on it ; and still lower 
on the shield appear sheaves of wheat, with a plough, rake and pick. The crest is the 
American eagle. The motto is Alis Volat Propriis ("She flies with her own wings"). 
The Governors of Oregon have been: Territorial : Geo. Abernethy, 1845-9; Joseph 
Lane, 1849 ^^^^ 1853; J. P. Gaines, 1849-53; Geo. L. Curry, 1853 and 1854-9; John W. 
Davis, 1853-4: State: John Whiteaker, 1859-62; Addison C. Gibbs, 1 862-6 ; Geo. L. 
Woods, 1866-70; Lafayette Grover, 1870-7; S. F. Chadwick, 1877-8; W. W. Thayer, 
1878-82; Zenas Ferry Moody, 1882-6; Sylvester Pennoyer, 1886-95. 

Descriptive. — Oregon is as large as New England and Indiana united, and twice as 
large as England ; and if settled as densely as England it would have 40,000,000 inhabitants. 
The natural divisions are Eastern Oregon, including all east of the Cascade Mountains (ex- 
cept Lake and Klamath Counties) ; Southern Oregon, including the above counties and all 
between the Rogue-River and Siskiyou Mountains, out to the Pacific ; and Western Oregon, 
between the Cascades and the Pacific, the Columbia 
River and the Rogue-River Mountains. The dis- 
tance from the Pacific Ocean to Idaho is 360 miles, 
and from the Columbia River to California it is 275 
miles. The sea-coast, 330 miles long, is lined by 
l)roken ridges, running northward from the Coast 
Range of California, and reaching from 1,000 to 
4,000 feet ill height. There is a broad strip of rag- 
ged country between the highlands and the sea, with 




CO.-UMEIA RIVER 




700 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



several fertile valleys, reached by wagon-roads 
and railways from the Willamette country. 

The magnificent Cascade Range traverses 
the entire length of the State, north and south, 
forming a huge maze of heavily timbered 
mountains, from 50 to 60 miles wide, 1 10 miles 
from the sea, and averaging 8,000 feet high. 
It is a great volcanic mass, and the connected 




MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 



basaltic plains form the floors of the Columbia, Willamette, Snake, Malheur and Owyhee 
valleys. This northerly extension of the Sierra Nevada derives its name from the turmoil 
of the Columbia traversing its rocky defiles. Mount Hood was discovered by Lieut. Brough- 
ton, R. N., in 1792, and named for Lord Hood. From the summit, 11,225 f^*^'^ 'ligh, and 
not far from the Columbia River, there is a vast view of 1 50 miles in all directions. This 
noble and conspicuous volcanic crest, crowned with glistening snow, has often been ascended 
by the climbers of the Oregon Alpine Club. Prof. Whitney ranks the great isolated vol- 
canic cones of the Pacific Coast as fairly on an equality, in picturescjue effect, with the Alps 
or the Andes. Among the other remarkable peaks are Mt. Jefferson, 10,200 feet high ; the 
craggy Three Sisters, fragments of a huge crater-rim ; Diamond Peak, overlooking a tre- 
mendous line of dead volcanoes and lava flows ; Mt. Scott, with gentle slopes of ashes on 
the east and immense igneous cliffs on the west ; and Mt. Pitt (9,818 feet), commanding the 
Klamath Lakes and the Rogue-River Valley. The third of Oregon lying west of the Cas- 
cades is its most valuable part, amply dowered with forests, clear streams, and p>ark-like 
expanses of prairie. Two thirds of this area lies in the Willamette Valley, 150 miles long, 
north and south, and 60 miles wide, and nearly all fruitful arable land, rich in wheat, with 
splendid farms and beautiful villages, heavy lowland forests alternating with loamy prairies, 
broad terraces and rolling foot-hills for woodlands or pastures, and bordering fir and pine 
forests seven leagues wide, darkening t^e mountains on either side. In this rural paradise the 
crops have never failed, and half of the population and wealth of the State is found here. 

The Calipooia Mountains run from the Cascade Range to the Pacific, closing the Wil- 
lamette Valley on the south. Beyond opens the Umpqua Valley, much smaller than the 
Willamette, with heavily rolling loamy lands, adapted for farming, and diversified by small 
forests, with enormous woods on the mountains. This, in turn, is walled in on the south by 
the Rogue-River Mountains, beyond which open the rolling table-lands of the Rogue-River 
Valley, covering 1,500 square miles, broken by many lofty spurs, and closed on the south 
by the high and rugged Siskiyou Mountains of California. 

Eastern Oregon includes nearly two thirds of the State, averaging 2,500 feet high, and with 
a wide diversity of scenery and products, from the pasture-clad mountains and pleasant vallevs 
of the north to the great grazing areas around Harney Lake, and th( and 
southern country, which requires artificial irrigation for maturing crop>, 
When the gold-placers were exhausted, a large stock-raising industry ai osc 
here, and the region, carpeted with bunch-grass, became known as 
"the Stockman's Paradise." Latterly it has developed as a rich 
wheat region. The wooded Blue Mountains and Powder-River 
Mountains, from 8,000 to 9,000 feet high, separate the Columbia 
Valley from the Great Basin. The Umatilla Valley is a rich wheat 
country, with important sheep-raising interests, and several pro.,- 
perous towns. The Grande-Ronde and other valleys in this region 
have valuable areas of farming lands, part of which are still for sale 
by the Government, the State and the railways. One of the largest 
tracts or agricultural land pertains to the Willamette- Valley & 
Cascade-Mountain Military Wagon-Road Company, to whom it was 
granted by Congress in 1866. It extends for 448 miles across Oregon, 




BUTTES OF THE COLUMBI/ 



THE STATE OF OREGON. 



701 




THE CROOKED-RIVER VALLEY, ON THE WILLA- 
METTE-VALLEY & CASCADE-MOUNTAIN 
MILITARY WAGON-ROAD. 



from the Willamette Valley, near Albany, to the valley 
of Snake River, at Ontario, covering each alternate sec- 
tion in a belt six miles wide, and including 860,000 
acres. The land is sold at from 50 cents an acre up- 
ward, for cash or on five years' time, with perfect titles 
and warranty deeds. This great strip crosses the Cas- 
cades near Mt. Jefferson, runs southeast between the 
Blue and Stein Mountains, and then descends the great 
Harney and Malheur Valleys to the Snake River, includ- 
ing parts of Linn, Crook, Harney and Malheur Counties. 
These lands comprise timber, agricultural and grazing 
lands, among the finest in the State, each and every 
40-acre tract having been carefully selected. The Ore- 
gon Pacific Railroad follows nearly the line of the grant, and is now under construction, and 
will greatly enhance its value. The selling agents of this vast agricultural domain are 
Williams & Wood, of Portland, Oregon. 

South of the Blue Mountains begins the Great Basin, apparently as true a desert as Sa- 
hara, and running down into Nevada and Utah, with an area larger than that of France. 
It is not sand, but the more level tracts are covered with a fine volcanic soil, capable of 
wonderful fertility under irrigation. The rivers that pour their rushing crystal tides from 
the snow-clad ranges shrink away as they advance on the great plains, and are swallowed up 
in marshy sinks and shallow brackish lakes. Vast areas of lava-beds alternate with plains 

clad with sage-brush, dwarf pine and juni- 
— per, overlooked by rugged volcanic ridges. 
The grand range of the Stein Mountains 
traverses this country, forming the most 
conspicuous feature of southeastern Oregon. 
Several of the broad lakes that diversify 
the plateau are strongly alkaline, and when 
the heated season comes they dry up, leav- 
ing dreary mud-plai^is. They receive the 
waters of many brooks, but have no outlets, 
and so may be called miniature dead seas. 
Fish cannot exist in these solutions of potash and soda, whose only inhabitants are millions 
of brine-shrimp. 

Crater Lake, in southwestern Oregon, is one of the deepest bodies of fresh water in 
America, the soundings passing 2,000 feet, while the sheer en walling cliffs reach a height of 
from 800 to 2,000 feet. It is a body of clear, cold, deep-blue water, six by seven miles in area, 
filling a huge crater caused by the melting of the foundations of the mountain, and flowing 
over submerged cinder cones, 6,251 feet above the sea. Out from the transparent depths, 
the jagged peaks of Wizard Island rise, 845 feet high, and crowned with an extinct crater. 
Capt. C. E. Button, U. S. A., recently surveyed this mysterious lake, his soldiers having 
lowered their boats by ropes from cliffs 900 feet 
above the water. The five townships including 
Crater Lake have been set apart as the Oregon 
National Park, abounding in game and fish, and 
in hot and cold springs. The Upper and Lower 
Klamath Lakes cover 300 square miles, and are 
traversed by small steamboats, and bordered by 
marshes. Lake Wallowa, 6,000 feet high, on 
the Blue Mountains, is a beautiful basin of cold 
and crystalline water, inhabited by salmon-trout, 




PAULINA VALLEY : ON THE WILLAMETTE-VALLEY & CASCADE- 
MOUNTAIN MILITARY WAGON-ROAD. 




HARNEY VALLEY ON THE W. 



C. -M. M. W. ROAD, 



702 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 






m 



-£^- 



.1 




PENDLETON. 



and with a steamboat 
making voyages over 
its lofty mirror. 

The noble Columbia 
River may be ascended 
by steamboats, with a 
few breaks, to within 
450 miles of the navi- 
gable Missouri, and 
350 miles of the Yel- 
lowstone. It has a nav- 
igable length of 1 , 200 miles, one fourth of which lies on the northern frontier of Oregon. The 
mouth is six miles wide, between the fortified headlands of Point Adams and Cape Hancock, 
and is traversed by an outer bar, with 25 feet of water at mean low tide. The United-States 
Engineers have straightened the channel, by means of a jetty five miles long, from Point 
Adams toward Cape Hancock, and hope to give it a depth of 30 feet at low water. The 
jetty improvements have made this entrance open to the largest ships. The river scenery 
varies from the level lowlands near by to the snowy peaks of the Coast and Cascade Ranges. 
For 30 miles from the sea the Columbia is from three to seven miles wide ; and for 100 miles 
farther it has a breadth of over a mile. Numerous steamboats ply along this noble highway 
and its connected waters, from Portland to the Cascades and to Astoria. At the Cascades, 
150 miles from the sea, the Columbia descends 40 feet, 
in a canon 4,000 feet deep, cut through the lava-beds of 
the Cascade Mountains. The Lower Columbia lies below 
the Cascades ; the Middle Columbia is the 40-mile reach 
between the Cascades and the Dalles ; and the Upper Col- 
umbia lies above, with 190 miles of navigable water. At 
the Dalles the river begins its traversing of the Cascade 
chain, rushing swiftly through narrow cracks in sheets of 
lava. Several steamboats have safely descended through 
the Dalles and the Cascades, during periods of high water. 
The Government is building a canal 3,000 feet long at 
the Cascades, and contemplates a boat-railway at the 
Dalles, to make the entire length of the Columbia and the Snake navigable for grain-bearing 
steamboats. Travellers on the river rarely go above the Dalles, the main route being the 
Union Pacific Railroad, following the south bank from Portland. The grandeur of the 
scenery of the Cascade Mountains, where the Columbia River cuts through them, is height- 
ened by many attractive bits of scenery. Prominent among these are the Multnomah Falls, 
descending 850 feet in a straight band of white waters, and forming one of the most pic- 
turesque and beautiful cascades in the world. 

The Willamette River, rising in the western slopes of the Cascade Range, follows a north- 
erly course of 200 miles to the Columbia. Large steamships ascend to Portland, twelve miles 
up, and smaller vessels can go up 126 miles farther, passing around the falls at Oregon City 
by locks. The Umpqua and Rogue Rivers are each about 200 miles long, and break through 
the Coast Range in deep and rugged canons, amid profound forests. The Umpqua is as- 
cended by small steamboats 30 miles to Scottsburgh. The rough, swift and canon-bound 
Des-Chutes and John-Day Rivers, in the centre, are each 250 miles long ; the Umatilla, 
Powder and Grande-Ronde are swift mountain-born streams in the northeast, with lovely 
valleys ; and the greater part of the eastern frontier for 150 miles is formed by the tremend- 
ous basaltic cafion of the Snake River, which descends from the Yellowstone National 
Park. This powerful stream receives the Malheur River, 140 miles long ; and the Owyhee, 
from the gray deserts of Nevada. Coos Bay maintains a line of coasting steamships to San 




CORNELL ROAD. 



THE STATE OF OREGON. 



703 




CLIFTON, ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER : J. W. & V. COOK S iALMOM-CANNERY. 



?>ancisco, whither it sends coal and 
lumber. Yaquina Bay has been im- 
proved by the Government, with 
long jetties, and has the deep-water 
end of the Oregon Pacific Railroad, 
and a line of steamships to San Fran- 
cisco. Port Orford stands where the 
Rogue-River Mountains meet the 
Pacific ; and Tillamook, Alsea, Sius- 
law and other bays have a vakie ffir 
oystering and fishing, and the export- 
ing of farm and forest products. 

The salmon-fisheries yield several million dollars a year, and the Lower Columbia alone 
has produced in a season over 600,000 cases, mainly of the quinnat salmon, averaging about 
22 pounds each, though some have been caught weighing 80 pounds. They are taken in 
seines 300 to 600 feet long, and nets 1,500 to 1,800 feet long, with a depth of twelve feet, 
the head-fishermen being mainly Norwegians and Italians. There are 38 canneries between 

Astoria and the Cascades; and 1,600 boats, cost- 
ing with their outfits over $2,000,000, have been 
engaged during a prosperous season. Since 1885 
this industry has fallen off somewhat in quantity 
of pack. The pack in 1890 was 350,000 cases, 
besides enough fresh fish shipped away to have 
made a total of 450,000 cases. Fresh-fish ship- 
ment to eastern markets is a new industry. The 
Government hatchery is now putting 5,000,000 
young salmon in the river annually, which will 
soon increase the pack again. 

A typical salmon-cannery is that of J. W. & V. 
Cook, on the banks of the Columbia, at Clifton, Clatsop County. This establishment was 
founded in 1874, and has put up 400,000 cases of salmon, valued at $2,000,000. It employs 
175 men during the fishing season (from April 1st to August 1st), and has a large group of 
buildings, including the packing-house and warehouse, besides very long net-racks. The 
famous Medal brands of salmon and salmon steaks put up here have won the highest 
awards at the expositions at Philadelphia, Lon- 
don, Paris, Melbourne and Sydney. They ai l 
shipped direct to foreign countries, as well as 
to the San-Francisco markets and the cities ol 
the East. The growing demand for canned 
fresh fish will for many years be supplied from 
scientifically conducted establishments like this 
of J. W. & V. Cook, on the Columbia. 

Halibut, herring and smelt, and many othci 
fish are found abundantly in the Oregon waters 
shipment of sturgeon has also become a large indus- 
try. They are caught in the Columbia and Willamette, 
and sometimes weigh 600 pounds. 

The State has many great water-powers, at the 
Cascades and the Dalles, at Salem, the Tualatin an 
other points. The falls of the Willamette at Oregon 
City, give force equal to 300,000 horse-power, an 1 
have beeh improved. The descent is 40 feet 




PORTLAND : PACIFIC COAST ELEVATOR CO. 




SALMON PACKING. 



704 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Along the resounding Pacific Ocean, Oregon has several popular beach-resorts, like 
Newport and Yaquina, near the grand headland of Cape Foulweather ; and Clatsop Beach, 
curving around to Tillamook Head, i8 miles from Astoria, where the hotels and cottages 
accommodate thousands of summer idlers. Inland, at the hot springs of Linkville, and at 
Hot Lake, near Union, in the remote east, new health-resorts are springing up. 

The Climate west of the Cascade Range is mild and equable, with the extraordinary- 
rainfall of 67 inches along the coast, and 50 inches in the Willamette Valley. When the 
Californians have a long rainy season they call it "Oregon weather;" and when a season 
of heat and dust invades the Sunset State, the people revile it as "the sort of climate they 
have down in California." The Cascade Range robs the ocean-winds of their moisture, 
which falls on the western slopes, and the winds go eastward dry and arid. The Upper 
Columbia valley receives from 18 to 22 inches of rain, never failing to have enough for the 
production of fall-sown wheat. The Great Basin gets only from nine to 15 inches of rain 
yearly. The temperature of the coast valleys is comparatively equable, but that of the east 
shows great extremes. The ice on the Lower Columbia and the Willamette rarely forms 
thicker than one inch, and the snows are light and dry, and quickly pass. This genial climate 
is due to the southwestern trade winds. Careful observers credit Oregon with six climates ; 



the rainy, foggy and equable outer 
mers, rainy winters, and mild and 
mette country; the mild and even 
rainfalls of the Umpqua Valley ; 
of the Rogue-River Valley ; the 
mers and heavy snows of the 
bracing mountain air of north- 
and hot summers. The mean 
Portland and Ashland are above 
ther south, and the range of the 
lake-country has a yearly average 
sumptives cannot live west of the 
high eastern plateaus. East of the 
220 by 240 square miles, abound- 
hence well adapted for grazing, 
prevents a general use of these 
north, along the John-Day, Uma- 




coast ; the warm and smoky sum- 
damp mid-seasons of the Willa- 
summers and winters, and fair 
the greater diversity and dryness 
wide extremes and arid sum- 
southern lake-country ; and the 
eastern Oregon, with cold winters 
yearly temperatures of Astoria, 
that of Philadelphia, 400 miles far- 
thermometer is much less. The 
colder than that of Boston. Con- 
Cascades, but find health on the 
Cascade Mountains is a plateau of 
ing in nutritious bunch-grass, and 
The insignificance of the rainfall 
lands for farming, except in the 



MULTNOMAH FALLS. 



tilla and Des-Chutes Rivers. 

Agriculture is largely diversified, being generally favored by soil and climate. The 
great staple is wheat, of which 15,000,000 bushels have been produced in a year, two thirds 
of it from the dark loam of Eastern Oregon. It averages 30 bushels to the acre, and is of 
unusual weight and fullness. The product of oats is above 6,000,000 bushels ; flax, rye, 
barley and buckwheat form large crops ; and corn is raised in -the south. The Willamette 
hop-gardens, harvested by Chinese labor, yield 2,500,000 pounds yearly. Fruits and vege- 
tables are brought forth in great quantities west of the Cascades ; and there are immense 
establishments for drying and canning them. A million fruit trees have been planted since 
1885. The prune-orchards of the Willamette Valley are among the best in America; and 
the apple-orchards yield 2, 500,000 bushels. About 600,000 tons of hay are harvested yearly. 

The raising of cattle is favored by illimitable natural pastures of bunch-grass, especially 
on the nearly rainless plains of the southeast ; and there are 700,000 head kept in the State. 
The chief dairy farms are in the Willamette Valley and along the coast. Live-stock remains 
out-doors all winter, fattening on the sun-cured bunch-grass of the east and the perennial Wil- 
lamette pastures; and of late years the herds have been greatly improved in breed. Vast 
numbers of cattle are sent to the Eastern markets. The wool-clip exceeds 16,000,000 pounds 
a year, the fleeces being of excellent weight and quality. There arc more than 2,600,000 
sheep grazing along the mountains during the summer. 



THE STATE OF OREGON. 



705 








HE CITY HALL. 



Oregon has 25,000 square miles of woodlands, including the famous Ore- 
gon pine, or red fir, the finest ship timber in the world, with red and white 
cedar and hemlock, oak and maple, cottonwood and ash. 
The lumbering interests are very extensive. The firs and 
cedars are of giant growth, logs from four to ten feet in 
diameter going into the mills daily. Most of the mills are 
on Coos Bay, at Astoria, and along the Lower Columbia; 
and at Portland, where there are a dozen mills. Lum- 
ber is shipped by rail as far east as Omaha, and by sea 
to San Francisco and the Pacific ports of North, Central 
and South America, the Sandwich Islands, Australia, 
Japan and China. This industry is growing rapidly. 
Minerals. — The Coos-Bay coal-field begins near the Coquille and runs north to the Ump- 
qua, going inland nearly 20 miles, a region of rugged hills broken by narrow estuaries. 
The winter storms sweep this coast with fearful power and peril. The chief mines are 
at Marshfield, and their product reaches from 30,000 to 50,000 tons a year of lignitic 
coal. Oregon has large deposits of iron-ore, and at Oswego, five miles from Portland, the 
Oregon Iron and Steel Works make 50 tons of pig-iron daily. It is a brown hematite of 
excellent quality, in a vein from six to 15 feet thick. 

Gold and silver have been produced to the amount of $1,000,000 yearly, largely from 
the deep placers of the southwest, whence it is ex- 
tracted by the hydraulic process. The gold and silver 
mines of the Blue Mountains have been worked for 
many years, with varying success. The placer-mines of 
Baker County have yielded over $20,000,000; and 
those of Jackson County, $30,000,000. Chrome ore 
is mined in Southern Oregon ; nickel at Riddle, in 
the Umpqua Valley; manganese, in Columbia County; 
copper, in Josephine County ; and quicksilver near 
Oakland. The State has quarries of lime, basalt, 
brick-clay, granite, marble and sandstone. 

The Government of Oregon has its headquarters 
at Salern, where the handsome classic State House 
(built in 1873-89) looks out upon the snowy peaks of the Cascades. Salem also has the 
Penitentiary, with 300 convicts, making stoves and brick ; the Jnstitute for the Blind ; the 
School for Deaf Mutes, and the Asylum for the Insane (with 600 inmates). The Oregon 
National Guard was organized in 1883, by the union of several independent companies into 
a battalion, which did good service during the anti-Chinese agitation of 1886. The next 
year the legislature provided for the organization and equipment of a brigade of three regi- 
ments. The First Regiment has a strong and handsome armory at Portland. 

Education has been richly endowed with National land-grants, and is carefully guarded 

by the Oregonians. The normal schools are at 
Monmouth, Drain, Ashland and Weston. The 
University of Oregon was founded by the State, 
at Eugene City, in 1876, and has a large Nat- 
ional land-grant, and receives yearly legislative 
appropriations. It includes 100 students, be- 
sides a large preparatory school, and a medical 
school at Portland. The State Agricultural 
College, at Corvallis, owns large endowments 
in land and funds. Willamette University re- 
poRTLAND : STEEL BRiDQE ovEfi THE WILLAMETTE. ccivcd incoTporation in 1853. It has a college 




PORTLAND : CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 




1 -lllfl. , 




mmM 



PORTLAND : FIRST REGIMENT ARMORY. 



yo6 KJN(J\S HANDBOOK OF TlfK UNITED STATES. 

of liberal arts, a woman's college, a conservatory of music, an aca<lcmy, and the affiliated 
academies at Wilbur, Sheridan, the Dalles, Lebanon and Drain. Its law and medical schools 
are at Portland. This great Methodist institution occupies an estate of i8 acres at Salem, 
in the Willamette Valley. The Congregationalists in 1849 ^^- 
ganized at Forest Grove, Pacific University, which now has 24 
students, besides no in its Tualatin Academy. Other 
sects conduct small colleges at Philomath, McMinnville 
and Monmouth. The Catholics have academies at Port- 
land, Salem, the Dalles, Baker City, Mt. Angel, St. Paul, 
Jacksonville and Gervais ; the Episcopalians, at Portland 
(the Bishop-Scott Academy for boys and St. Helen's 
Hall for girls), Astoria and Cove ; and there are other 
academies at Bethel, Portland, Newberg, Jefferson, Dallas, Harrisburg and the Dalles. 

The Indian Training School at Chemawa, on Lake LaBish, near Salem, has 180 boys 
and girls from 30 tribes, under careful "instruction in the grammar-school branches, and also 
in carpentry and blacksmithing, tailoring and farming, and other useful industries. 

The National defences at the mouth of the Columbia, Fort Stevens, on Point Adams, 
and Fort Canby on Cape Hancock, have long been abandoned for military purposes. So 
also with the fortified posts in the Indian country, the last of which, Fort Klamath, was 
evacuated in 1889. The Oregon coast is beaconed by the 
lights at Cape Blanco, Cape Arago, Cape Foulweather, Tilla- 
mook Head or Cape Meares, Point Adams, and more than a 
score along the Lower Columbia and Willamette Rivers. 

The Finances of Oregon in a business point of view 
are mainly concentrated at Portland, whose banks have avail- 
able resources of nearly $20,000,000. A clearing-house was 
established here in 1889, and shows a business of $100,000,- 
000 a year, although but ten out of the 16 city banks belong 
to or settle their daily balances through it. 

The First National Bank of Portland was established in 
July, 1865, and is the oldest National bank west of the 
Rocky Mountains. The capital was originally $100,000. 
In 1869 the controlling interest was acquired by Henry Fail- 
ing and H. W. Corbett, who have continued in the control and management. In 1870 the 
capital was increased to $250,000, and again in 1888 to $500,000. The management has 
been of a conservative and enlightened character ; and the bank now stands preeminently 
at the head of the financial institutions of the Pacific Northwest. Besides the capital of 
$500,000, it has a surplus and undivided profits exceeding $800,000; and the deposits 
amount to nearly $4,000,000. It is a United-States depositary, and has a collection busi- 
ness extending throughout the Union. In the building 
/ \ up of "the Boston of the Pacific Coast," and sustaining 

it triumphantly through the financial storms which have 
swept over the Northwest, the First National Bank has 
exerted a powerful and beneficent influence. 

Another strong and influential bank is Ladd & Til- 
ton, of Portland, whose connections extend all over the 
Northwest, and whose correspondents are in every State, 
and include direct interests in several of the interior 
banks of Oregon and Washington. Their capital is 
$250,000, with a surplus and undivided profits of nearly 
double that amount, and a personal responsibility of 
several millions. Among the great financial houses of 




PORTLAND: FIRST NATIONAL BANK. 




PORtLAND ; LADD &. TILTON'S BANK. 



THE STATE OE OREGOX. 



707 



the purse-bearing Pacific Coast, Ladd & Tilton are reputed to occupy the highest place of 
all the private bankers, skilfully employing their portion of the available capital in the 
development of trade and commerce. At Seattle, too, Ladd & Tilton have gained a forenftjst 
position, as they are practically the owners 
and officers of Dexter Horton & Co.'s bank. 
These two financial institutions are among 
the oldest on the Northwest Pacific Coast. 

Chief Cities. — Portland is a prosperous 
shipping port and railway centre, the metropo- 
lis of the Willamette Valley, "the Eden of 
Oregon. " In a single year 5,000, ooobushels of 
wheat and 500,000 barrels of flour have been 
exported, and vast quantities of lumber to China, Japan and South America. There are 
a hundred millionaires in this city. Portland lies on the Willamette, I lO miles from the 
sea, and its hills rise 1,000 feet, commanding noble views of Mts. Hood and Rainier, 
St. Helena and Adams. Among its buildings are that of the Portland Industrial Exposition, 
the largest on the Pacific Coast; a $700,000 opera house, three large hospitals, a Masonic 
temple, 40 churches, and numerous efficient schools and colleges. The city is the greatest 
railway centre on the Coast, and is favorably situated at the head of deep-sea navigation on 




PORTLAND : PORTLAnO INDUSTRIAL EXPOSITION BUILDING. 




PORTLAND AND THE W LLAMETTE RIVER 

the Columbia and^\ lUamette. It is the metropolis of the entiie Columbia A alley, and second 
in size to San Francisco on the Pacific Coast. Its population is 69,000, by the census of 
1890, of whom but 47,000 live within its very contracted official limits. It has 14 banks, 
with a capital of $9,000,000 and weekly clearances of $1,800,000. It manufactures 
$28,000,000 worth of goods, and did a wholesale business of $132,000,000 in 1890. 
Its real-estate transactions are $24,000,000 yearly, and its building improvements $5,000,- 
000. Its exports reach $12,000,000 a year, and its money-order business at the post- 
oflice $3,000,000. It has extensive systems of cable-road and electric-motor lines, and is 
lighted by electricity generated at the Willamette Falls, 12 miles distant. This beautiful 
queen city of the far Northwest is the terminal point of the Southern Pacific line from San 
Francisco, the Union Pacific routes by the Oregon Short Line and the Oregon Railway & 
Navigation Co., the Northern Pacific routes via Tacoma, and the new system of the Great 
Northern Railway, now threading its way over the 
Rocky Mountains from far-away Minnesota. It has 
also steamship lines to Japan, to Alaska, to British Col- 
umbia, and to San Francisco, besides several lines of 
steamers employed in the Coast trade ; and sailing-ves- 
sels load here for China, South America, New York, 
and the United Kingdom. By reason of her favorable 
position at the head of deep-sea navigation, and the 




•joi 



A'/A'G'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SANTIAM RIVER ON THE CASCADE MOUN 

TAIN AND WILLAMETTE-VALLEY 

WAGON-ROAD. 



wonderful resources of the country of which Portland 
is the metropolis, her influence and importance must 
continue to increase. One of the chief agents in the re- 
cent development of Portland's interests is the Oregon 
Emigration Board. 

Vast quantities of Oregon and Washington white 
wheat are handled at Portland, by the Pacific-Coast 
Elevator, of which F. H. Peavey is President. This 
structure has a capacity of 1,000,000 bushels, and the 
40 country houses belonging to the .company hold 
1,300,000 bushels. 

Astoria's busy wharves front on the broad Columbia 
estuary for a league, and preserve the memories of the 
old fur-trading days, while sheltering a considerable commerce. The business district is 
liuilt on piles, like Amsterdam ; the residence quarter rises along higher terraces of the 
heights behind ; and the great forest sweeps around all its landward environs. The most 
important towns in Eastern Oregon are Baker City, Pendleton and the Dalles ; the most 
important in Southern Oregon are Ashland, Jacksonville and Medford, in the Rogue-River 
Valley, and Roseburg, in the Umpqua Valley. 

Oregon is now receiving very large accessions to her population. Capital is flow ing 
into the State, developing her great natural resources, and destiny points to her as one of 
the great States of the American Union. 

The Railway system includes the Oregon Railway k Navigation Line (Union Pacific) 
from Portland east to Huntington (404 miles), connecting there for 1, Idaho and Wyom- 
ing; the Oregon and California line (Southern Pacific) from Port- M land southward 
into the Golden State ; and the Northern Pa- 
cific line, crossing the Columbia River by ferry 
at Kalama, and running down to Portland. Also 
three distinct lines of the Southern Pacific, 
besides the Union line, running up the entire 
length of the Willamette Valley. The Union 
Pacific system ramifies throughout the entire 
Upper-Columbia and Snake-River region, reaching. 
mines in Idaho. 

One of the wonders of the Pacific Coast is the new Hotel Portland, opened April 7, 
1890, at the metropolis of Oregon. This beautiful specimen of French-chateau architect- 
ure is built in the shape of the letter H, with north and south wings 50 by 200 feet in area, 
and a central wing of 50 by 100 feet, each being eight stories high, and built of gray basaltic 
rock and brick. This immense and luxurious home for travelers, with its elegant furnishing 
and equipment, cost three quarters of a million dollars, and contains every possible device for 
comfort and content. Its 350 rooms are heated by steam and lighted 
by electricity, andprovidedwith the most ingenious protection against 
fire. Amid the Wilton carpets and rose-silk-plush upholstery, the 
carved oak buffets and silverplate, the shining mir- 
rors and mahogany furniture of this modern hostelry, 
one must realize that the old Northwest, with its perils 
and hardships, has passed away forever. The man- 
ager of the Portland is Charles E. Leland, for many 
years proprietor of the Delavan, at Albany, the Clar- 
endon, at Saratoga, and the Rossmore, at New York, 
— one of the Leland family whose name is indelibly 
E PORTLAND. associated with the hostelries of this generation. 




PORTLAND : UNION PASSENGER DEPOT. 



Spokane Falls and the Coeur-d'Alenc 





The claim of the Dutch 
to the soil of Pennsylvania 
fel\ rested on the discovery of 
Irr:! Delaware Bay by Henry 
Hudson, in 1609. Seven 
years later, Cornells Hen- 
dricksen explored the Dela- 
ware River as far as the 
Schuylkill ; and ephemeral 

colonies soon arose along the lower shores. Swedish ships 

entered the Delaware in 1638, and their people founded 

the first towns in Pennsylvania. The Puritan immigrants 

from Connecticut, settling on the Schuylkill in 1641, were 

ousted and sent home by the Swedes and Dutch. The first 

permanent European settlement was made at Tinicum, 

near Chester, where Lieut. -Col. Printz, of the Swedish 

cavalry, and the learned Pastor Campanius founded New 

Gottenburg "the metropolis of New Sweden." In his 

handsome mansion of Printz Hall, Gov. Printz's daughter 

Armegard was married the next year (the first wedding in 

Pennsylvania). The growth of New Sweden, and its pur- 
chases of land from the Indians, alarmed the Dutch of 

New Netherland, and in 1655 a fleet of seven vessels, led 

by Stuyvesant, swooped down on the little Scandinavian 

fortresses, and made captives of all the Swedes and Finns. 

A few years later, a similar operation was conducted by Sir 

Robert Carr's fleet, and the Dutch colonies on the Dela- 
ware surrendered to the power of England. 

When the brave Admiral Sir William Penn died, the 

British Government owed him ;!^i6,000. In 1680, his son, 

William Penn, petitioned King Charles II. to discharge 

this debt by granting him a tract of land in America, north 

of Maryland and west of the Delaware River ; and so, the 

next year, Penn was made absolute proprietary of the new 

province. In 1682 he came to his principality, and entered into friendly relations with the 

chiefs of the Delawares, Mingoes and Shawnees, and before their council-fire established 

the fraternal relations which preserved an unbroken peace in the Province for more than 50 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at Tinicum. 

Settled in 1643 

I'"ounded by Swedes. 

One of the Original 13 States. 
Population in i85o, . . . 2,906,215 

In 1870 3,521,951 

In 1880, 4.282,891 

White, 4,197.016 

Colored 85,875 

American-born, , . . 3,695,062 
Foreign-borii, .... 587,829 

Males, 2,136,655 

Females, 2. [46,236 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), . . 5,258,014 
I'opiilation to the square mile, 95.2 
Voting Population, . . . 1,094,284 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 526,091 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 446,633 
Net State Debt, .... $1,788,026 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . $2,593,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 45,215 
U. S. Representatives (in 1893), 30 
Militia (Disciplined), . . . 8,335 
Counties, .... 67 

Post-offices ... 4.728 

Railroads (miles), .... 8.453 

Vessels, 1,029 

Tonnage 273,203 

Manufactures (j-earlj ), $701,748,045 

Operatives, 387,112 

Yearly Wages, . . $134,055,304 
Farm Land (in acres), . 20,060,455 
Farm-Land Values, $975,689,410 
Farm Products (i early) $129,760,476 
Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 687,355 

Newspapers, i,357 

Latitude, . . . 39"43' to 42°i5' N. 
Longitude, . . 74°42' to 8o''34' W. 
Temperature, . . . — 16° to 103° 
Mean Temperature (Harrisburg), 54" 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). 

Philadelphia 1,046,964 

Pittsburgh,_ 238,617 

105,287 
75.2'5 
58,661 
40,634 
39.385 
37.718 
32,011 
30,337 



Allegheny City, 
Scranton, 
Reading, . . 
Erie, . . . 
Harrisburg, 
Wilkes- Bar re, 
Lancaster, . 
Altoona, . . 



7IO 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




PHILADELPHIA . 
PENN TREATY MONUMENT. 



years. The State's domain was secured from the Indians by six great purchases, begin- 
ning in 1682 and ending in 1784. During the 40 years after 1683 more than 50,000 Ger- 
man and Swiss settlers migrated to Pennsylvania, giving it almost the character of a 
Teutonic province. After the death of the wise Quaker founder, in 
1718, the government lay in the hands of his kinsmen, John, Rich- 
ard and Thomas Penn and their heirs until 1776. The first serious 
danger from without came from the French, who in 1 753-4 erected 
a line of forts along the Allegheny and Ohio Rivers. In 1755 Gen. 
Braddock advanced from Alexandria, Virginia, against Fort Du- 
quesne (now Pittsburgh), with Halkett's and Dunbar's regiments 
of regulars and 1,200 Virginians. After marching across the path- 
less AUeghenies, and when approaching the fort, the expeditionary 
force was ambuscaded by 600 Frenchmen and Indians, and after 
three hours of carnage, in which Braddock and 62 officers and 714 soldiers were slain, the 
remnant of the British army gave way. After this victory, the French and Indians ad- 
vanced across the Susquehanna, and into Lancaster and Berks Counties ; and the alarmed 
Pennsylvanians erected and garrisoned a chain of forts along the Kitlatinny Hills, from the 
Delaware to the Maryland border. The Assembly pursued a Quaker policy of non-resist- 
ance ; but in 1756 Col. Armstrong destroyed Kittanning, on the AUeghenies, and Gov. 
Denny raised 25 companies of volunteers and garrisoned the frontier. In 1758 Gen. Forbes 
and 9,000 troops marched against Fort Duquesne, which was blown up and abandoned by 
the French. Thenceforward for many decades the western slopes of 
the AUeghenies witnessed the slow and heroic advance of the Scotch- 
Irish people and other frontiersmen, pressing back the Indian 
^ tribes farther and farther into the unknown wilderness, and receiv- 
ing and inflicting terrible blows. Col. Bouquet's expedition and 
victory at Bushy Run, in 1763, and other martial events at last 
cleared the frontier. Mason and Dixon's line was run and 
marked in 1767, by two English surveyors, to settle long-standing 
border-disputes between Pennsylvania and Maryland, and consisted 
of a cutting through the forest eight yards wide and 245 miles long, 
with each of the first 132 miles ending at an erected stone, each 
fifth stone bearing the carved arms of Lord Baltimore and the Penn 
family. These learned mathematicians would have gone farther 
west, but the Indians sought for their scalps, and they returned to London. 

The original elements of the population included the Swedes and Dutch of the first mi- 
grations, the English and Welsh Quakers who came with Penn, the Germans, the New- 
Englanders who colonized the Valley of Wyoming, and the Scotch-Irish settling along the 
perilous frontiers. The great streams of humanity that flowed into Pennsylvania in the early 
days still remain more distinct than the white races of any other State so long settled. The 
simple manners and plain speech of the English Friends, the positive and energetic traits 
of the Scotch-Irish Presbyterians, and the thrift and industry of the Germans still appear 
in evidence in the regions they originally settled. The Valley of Wyoming was occupied 
in 1762 by immigrants from Connecticut, whose Royal Charter covered northern Pennsyl- 
vania. The valiant Iroquois Indians fell upon these pioneers, 
and slew thirty of them, whereupon the survivors fled. 

But the New-Englanders finally prevailed, and the great '^ 
valley, dotted with Congregational hamlets, became a part •''■ 
of Litchfield County, with representatives in the Connecti- 
cut Legislature. During the Revolution, 400 Tory Rangers 
and Royal Greens and 700 Seneca Indians defeated and 
massacred Col. Zebulon Butler's 400 valley militia ; and oldest mill in Pennsylvania. 




PHILADELPHIA : 
BENJAMIN FRANKLIN'S GRAVE. 




THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



711 




PHILADELPHIA : 
CARPENTERS' HALL. 



the region was swept with the fire and steel of destruction for 
years. After the war, the Connecticut settlements were re- 
built, and again and again sacked and depopulated by the Pen- 
iiatnite troops, until 1799, when the seventeen valley town- 
ships were allotted to the New-Englanders, whose descendants 
now hold them, as a part of Pennsylvania. 

Fayette, Greene and Washington Counties, in southwestern 
Pennsylvania, were claimed as a part of Virginia, included in the 
District of West Augusta. Gov. Dunmore opened Virginian 
courts at Pittsburgh (then re-named Fort Dunmore), in 1774 ; 
and the region was divided into the counties of Yohogania, 
Monongalia and Ohio. Virginian land-officers gave titles at ten 
shillings the hundred acres, and Washington acquired property 
here. Finally, however, Gov. John Penn swooped down on the 
Southern officials, and put their chief men in prison. 

Pennsylvania took up arms promptly in the cause of Ameri- 
can independence, and the flower of her frontiersmen marched to Boston, in July, 1775, 
and joined the New-Englanders in rescuing their metropolis from the British^ garrison. 
This celebrated Rifle Regiment was the first command from 
beyond the Hudson to reach the American camps near Bos- 
ton. After the fall of New York the scene of war was trans- 
ferred to the peaceful plains of the Keystone State. In 1777 
Gen. Howe's British and German army passed by sea to the 
head of Chesapeake Bay, and defeated Washington on the 
Brandywine, after an all-day's battle, in which England lost 
600 men, and America twice as many. Then the invading 
host occupied Philadelphia, whence Congress had fled to 
Lancaster. The State navy consisted of 27 gunboats, fire- 
rafts, floating batteries and guard-boats. After Philadelphia 
fell into hostile hands, this fleet bravely fought the British 
squadron ascending the Delaware, and destroyed the Au- 
gusta, 74, and the Merlin, 44. When Fort Mifflin surren- 
dered, the larger part of the State fleet crept up by Philadel- 
phia in the shadow of night, to Burlington. Hence their sail- 
ors sent swarms of infernal machines floating down stream, against the British war-vessels, 
whose roaring broadsides, directed against them, gave rise to the poem of " The Battle of 
the Kegs." A marble monument was erected in 1817 over the grave of Wayne's Conti- 
nentals, slain in the midnight massacre at Paoli ; and Germantown has many memorials of 
its terrible battle in the October fogs, when Washington hurled his brave little army 
against the British defenses, and lost 1,200 men in 
vain. All that long winter Washington lay in miser- 
able cantonments at Valley Forge, watching the com- 
fortable and luxurious Britons in Philadelphia. Early 
in the summer, the Royal army evacuated the city, 
and retreated across New Jersey to New York, fol- 
lowed by Washington. The troops of the Pennsyl- 
vania Line revolted in 1781, and marched to Prince- 
ton, where they compelled Congress to remedy their 
undoubted grievances. In 1783 they boldly menaced 
Congress again, in Philadelphia, and constrained that 
body to adjourn to Princeton. The Whiskey Insur- 
rection of 1794 arose from the determination of Con- Philadelphia ; independence hall. 




PHILADELPHIA : 
THE INDEPENDENCE BELL. 




712 




THE VALLEY OF WYOMING 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

g^^ _- 1 gress to impose a tax on stills and distilled liquors, 

" "~ which were among the most highly prized posses- 

sions of the Scotch-Irish momitaineers of the AUe- 
ghenies. The four western counties of Pennsyl- 
vania flew to arms, and United-States officials suf- 
fered gross indignities, houses were burned, and 
people. were driven from the country by "Tom 
Tinker's men." President Washington called out 
13,000 Pennsylvania, New-Jersey, Maryland and 
Virginia troops, under Gov. Henry Lee of Vir- 
ginia, and journeyed by Carlisle and Chambersburg 
to Cumberland and Bedford, the army advancing to Uniontown. The insurgents gave way 
instantly before the Federal authority, and then for the first time it was seen that the 
United States was a Nation, and not a rope of sand, to be broken whenever any section 
disliked a law. In 1 795-6 Carlisle, Reading and Lancaster contended for the seat of the 
State government, which passed from Philadelphia to Lancaster in 1799, and to Harris- 
burg in 1812. In 1804 stages began to run from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, in seven days, 
by Lancaster, Harrisburg, Carlisle, Bedford, Somerset and Greensburg. In the war of 
1812, Pennsylvania had a larger force engaged than any other State, at the defence of 
Baltimore and in the invasion of Canada and on 
Perry's victorious fleet, although her own soil re- 
mained inviolate from hostile arms. 

For many years after the peace of 1783 there 
was nothing but a horse-path over the AUeghenies, 
and salt, iron, powder, lead and other necessities 
came from the coast on pack-horses. The farmers 
of fertile Western Pennsylvania, thus shut out 
from a market, turned their laces down the long 
river-valleys, where the Spaniards held sway. 
Building unwieldy arks of plank, and loading them 
with produce, they floated down the Onio and 
Mississippi, exposed to the Indian rifles, until they reached New Orleans, where the pro- 
aucts of the Pennsylvanian hills were changed into coin. Sometimes these bold Argonauts 
took ship to New York, and returned home over the AUeghenies ; but usually they walked 
home, through the Louisiana and Mississippi cane-brakes, and across the silent mountains 
of Tennessee and Virginia. The National Road was built in 1806-17, by the United States, 
in discharge of an agreement with Ohio to unite her domain with the navigable waters of 
the Atlantic. The eastern division of the road ran from Cumberland to Redstone Old Fort 
(now Brownsville, Penn. ), where the weary emigrants could get on flat-boats and float 
down to the Ohio. The western division ran from Redstone Old Fort to Wheeling (W. 

Va.). The road was 66 feet wide, paved for 20 feet 
with broken rock, on a pavement of close-set stones. 
In 1832-35 the Government put this great highway in 
complete repair, and surrendered it to the States 
whose territory it traversed. 

Although contiguous to one of the most conserva- 
tive Slave States, Pennsylvania was always strongly 
opposed to human servitude, and its Quaker popula- 
tion took strong ground against the Southern insti- 
tution. 

The first Northern troops to arrive at Washington 
8TARUC0A VIADUCT when the confederates threatened that city were 530 




JUMATA R \ER 




THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



713 




THE SUSQUEHANNA BhlUGE. 



Pennsylvania vol- 
unteers. Fourteen 
regiments were 
summoned from 
this State, and 25 
responded; and out 
of the surplus Gov. 
Cur tin organized 
the famous Penn- 
sylvania Reserves. 

The records of the Pennsylvania regiments are preserved in five imperial octavo volumes of 
1,000 pages each, issued by the State. Her contribution to the National armies numbered 
362,284 men, besides 25,000 militia in 1862. Again and again her lower counties were 
invaded by daring Southern raiders. Chambersburg was captured by 2,000 Confederate 
cavalry, October lo, 1 862, and vast Government stores destroved. In June, 1863, Jenkins 
and 1,800 Southern riders pillaged the town, and were followed by Lee's great army. 
Thirteen months later. Gen. McCausland captured the town and burnt it to the ground, 
inflicting a loss of $3,000,000. June 16, 1863, Ewell's Confederate corps occupied Car- 
lisle and burned the V)riilge and barracks, shelling the town through a long summer 

afternoon. After the defeat of the National army 
P ^^ at Chancellorsville, Gen. Lee invaded Pennsyl- 

vania with a powerful army of Southern veterans, 
and over-ran the Cumberland and lower Susque- 
hanna Valleys. The Army of the Potomac kept 
to the eastward, to cover Washington, Baltimore 
and Philadelphia. The two hosts came into con- 
flict around Gettysburg, and made immortal the 
name of the peaceful little Pennsylvania village. 
The battle lasted through July I, 2, and 3, 1863. 
The Confederates had 73,000 engaged ; the Federal 
forces numbered 82,000. In the first day's battle the First (Reynolds's) and Eleventh (How- 
ard's) Federal Corps were defeated and driven through Gettysburg, the First being almost 
annihilated. The second day passed in bitter fighting around Little Round Top (defended 
by Sickles's Third Corps against the flower of the Southern army), and in Ewell's unavail- 
ing assaults on Cemetery Hill. A little after noon on the third day, Lee opened against 
the National center a tremendous cannonade from 1 15 guns, which shook the valley for two 
hours, at the end of which, Pickett and his magnificent division of Virginians swept across 
the plain and up the heights, and broke through the Federal lines. But their losses during 
the charge had been appalling; the supporting brigades gave way; and the Federal batteries 
and brigades hurried forward from right and left, and en walled Pickett with fire. Most of 
his heroes were made prisoners, or slain on the 
field. The next day, Lee retreated with his broken 
army through the mountains. Gen. Doubleday, 
the historian of the battle, endorses the Count de 
Paris's estimates of the losses in the Gettysburg 
campaign: Federal, 2,834 killed, 13,709 wounded, 
and 6,643 missing (total, 23,186); Confederate, 
2,665 killed, 12,599 wounded, and 7,464 missing 
(total, 22,728). 

The Soldiers' National Cemetery covers 17 
acres of the Federal lines in the great battle, with 
the graves of 3,575 soldiers. Eighteen States are the susquehan^a 




LLEGHENY MOUNTAINS . THE HORSE- 




714. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

represented: New York with 867 graves, Pennsylvania with 555, Michigan with 175, and 
Massachusetts with 158, being the chief. The States bore the cost of thus caring for their 
dead children; and in 1872 the Nation took charge of the cemetery. Near the semi-circle 
of graves rises the National monument, of gray Westerly granite, crowned by a colossal mar- 
ble statue of the Genius of Liberty, and surrounded by marble statues of War, History, 
Peace and Plenty. Here, also, stands J. Q. A. Ward's bronze statue of Gen. John F. Rey- 
nolds, one of the slain in the first day's fight. The cemetery was dedicated a year or so 
after the battle, and on this field President Lincoln delivered his immortal address : "Fel- 
low Citizens : Fourscore and seven years ago our fathers brought forth upon this continent 
a new nation, conceived in Liberty, and dedicated to the proposition that all men are 
created equal. Now we are engaged in a great civil war, testing whether that nation, or 
any nation so conceived and so dedicated, can long endure. We are met on a great battle- 
field of that war. We are met to dedicate a portion of it as a final resting-place of those 
who here gave their lives that that nation might live. It is altogether fitting and proper 
that we should do this. But in a larger sense we cannot dedicate, we cannot consecrate, 
we cannot hallow this ground. The brave men, living and dead, who struggled here, have 
consecrated it far above our power to add or detract. The world will little note, nor long 
remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here. It is for us, the 
living, rather to be dedicated here to the unfinished work that they have thus so far nobly 
carried on. It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaining before us — 
that from these honored dead we take increased devotion to the cause for which they here 
gave the last full measure of devotion — that we here highly resolve that the dead shall not 
have died in vain ; that the nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom ; and that 
the government of the people, by the people, and for the people, shall not perish from 
the earth." 

Since the dawn of peace, Pennsylvania has pursued the even tenor of her way, develop- 
ing her famous mines and manufactures, under the fostering care of National tariffs. This 
noble and historic State abounds in memorials of its ancient days, like the famous old 
taverns of Chester, the White Horse, Red Lion, Unicorn, Hammer and Trowel, Compass, 
Turk's Head, The Bull, and others; the century-old houses of Chester, still scarred with 
the British bombardment; the headquarters of Washington and Lafayette, on the Brandy- 
wine (Andrew Braindwine's Creek, of the ancient records) ; the home of Washington dur- 
ing the weary winter of 1777-8, at Valley Forge; the Chew mansion, whose solid stone 
walls enabled the British troops to check the victorious Americans, at Germantown ; vener- 
able churches like St. David's at Radnor (built in 1 71 5), the Old Swedes and Christ Church, 
in Philadelphia, and the gray old shrines of Bristol ; the colonial houses of Bedford and the 
valley towns ; and scores of historic mansions about Philadelphia. Independence Hall was 
built at Philadelphia in 1732-35, as the seat of the Provincial Government, and is sacredly 
preserved. Within its venerable walls the Second Continental Congress convened, in 1776, 
and adopted the Declaration of Independence, which was read to the assembled citizens in 
the State-House yard. The hall contains portraits of the signers of the Declaration, and 
many interesting historical relics. The First Continental Congress met in 1774, in Carpen- 
ters' Hall, which is still preserved, at Philadelphia, with its memories of Patrick Henry, 
John Hancock and Sam. Adams. Overlooking Lake Erie, near the city of Erie, stands a 
quaint memorial blockhouse, armed with four cannon, erected by the State in honor of its 
Revolutionary hero, Anthony Wayne. Gen. Grant's headquarters during the siege of 
Richmond has been brought from City Point and set up in Fairmount Park, Philadelphia. 
William Penn's house, longtime the home of the founder of Pennsylvania, has also been 
removed to the Park. Scores of monuments in all parts of the State, at Allegheny City, 
Lancaster, Carlisle, Erie, Norristown and elsewhere, commemorate the valor of its volunteers 
in the great civil war. Other monumental shafts at Harrislnng and Paoli, and in the Valley 
of Wyoming and other places preserve the memories of earlier conflicts and other heroes. 



THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 




GETTYSBURG BATTLEFIELD AND MONUMENTS. 



7i6 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




KINZUA VIADUCT. 



The Name, Pennsylvania, means the Sylvan 
Places (or Woodlands) of Penn, and was given 
by King Charles II. of England. The Penn so 
commemorated was not the William Penn who 
founded the Commonwealth, but his father, Ad- 
miral Penn, whom the King greatly esteemed. 
William Penn wished to have the country named 
AlfTf Wales, but the Secretary, a Welshman him- 
self, refused to allow it ; and then Penn suggested 
Sylvaiiia as an appropriate name, and the King pre- 
fixed it with Penn. The name of The Keystone 
State arises from the fact that Pennsylvania is the seventh in geographical order of the 13 
original States. As such, her name was cut on the keystone of the bridge between Wash- 
ington and Georgetown. Another reason is that the final vote of her delegation secured the 
adoption of the Declaration of Independence in the Continental Congress, thus crowning 
Pennsylvania as the Keystone of the arch of Liberty. 

The Arms of Pennsylvania were devised in 1779, and display a ship in full sail, a 
plough, and stalks of maize, with a crest showing a bald eagle, proper, perched, with wings 
extended. The supporters are two black horses, 
harnessed for draught, and rampant. The motto 
is : Virtue, Liberty, and Independence. 

The Governors of Pennsylvania for the first 
57 years were 24 Dutch, Swedish and English 
gentlemen, followed from 1681 to 1776 by the 
Provincial Government of the Penns and their 
deputies. During the Revolution, and later, the 
State was ruled successively by Wharton, Bryan, 
Reed, Moore, Dickinson, Franklin and Mifflin, 
Presidents of the Council. Then came the State 
Governors : Thomas Mifflin, 1 790-9 ; Thomas McKean, 1 799-1 80S ; Simon Snyder, 1808-17 ; 
William Findlay, 1817-20 ; Joseph Hiester, 1820-3; John Andrew Shulze, 1823-9 ; George 
Wolf, 1829-35; Joseph Ritner, 1835-9; David Rittenhouse Porter, 1839-45; Francis 
Rawn Shunk, 1845-8; Wm. Freame Johnston, 1848-52; Wm. Bigler, 1852-5; James 
Pollock, 1855-8; Wm. Fisher Packer, 1858-61 ; Andrew Gregg Curtin, 1861-7; John 
White Geary, 1867-73 ; ]'^^^ Frederick Hartranft, 1873-9 ; Henry Martyn Hoyt, 1879-83 ; 
Robert Fmory Pattison, 1883-7 ; James A. Beaver, 1887-91; and R. E. Pattison, 1891-5. 

Descriptive. — Pennsylvania is the only one of the 13 
original States without any sea-coast. It extends 302 miles 
from Ohio and the Pan Handle of West Virginia to the bor- 
ders of New Jersey ; and has a width of 175 miles, from the 
hills of New York southward to Mason and Dixon's Line, which 
separates it from Maryland and West Virginia. In a large 
way, this great domain may be divided into three sections, 
the southeastern plains, the middle hills and valleys, and the 
western highlands. A million and a half of people dwell in 
the eight southeastern counties, one of the loveliest regions in 
America, pleasantly diversified with country-seats, park-like 
scenery, tranquil villages, and thousands of fruitful farms. 
The inhabitants are largely of German, Huguenot and 
Quaker descent. This garden-like country, with the red 
sandy clays of Bucks, Montgomery and Lebanon Counties, 
WI88AHICKON CREEK : LOVERS' LEAP, and the gray micaceous soil of Delaware, Chester and York 




GIRARO-AVENUE AND PENNSYLVANIA-RAILROAD BRIDGES. 




THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



717 




HILADELPHIA ; OLD STOCK EXCHANGE. 



Counties, merges into the beautiful Lancaster plains, which belong to the Great Valley, or 
Cumberland Valley. Here and there, the long levels of the farm-lands are broken by pic- 
turesque isolated ridges, like the Welsh, Conewago and Forrest Hills. 

A million people occupy the middle district, between South 
and the AUeghenies, including as its chief feature a valley 15 miles 
150 miles long, bending from east to south, and enwalled by ranges of 
mountains from 1,000 to 1,600 feet high, continuous with 
the Green Mountains of Vermont and the Smoky Moun- 
tains of North Carolina. In all the thousand miles of its 
course from Canada to the lowlands of the Gulf, there is no 
richer domain than Lancaster County, a great limestone 
plain extending from beyond the, Susquehanna nearly to 
Philadelphia, and occupied everywhere by the well-kept 
farms and huge stone barns of the "Pennsylvania Dutch." 
The language of this people is a legitimate South German (or Upper Rhineland) dialect, 
which has taken up many English words, and possesses a considerable body of literature. 

Middle or Appalachian Pennsylvania is about 50 miles wide and 230 miles long, with 
the Kittatinny Mountain on one side and the steep rocky wall of the AUeghenies on the 
other, cut by the narrow gorges of several rivers, and bearing various local names. The 
Catskill or Pocono plateau is a spacious wilderness, with laurel-fringed lakes and the 
haunts of many deer and bears. Southwest of this unpeopled land lie the labyrinthine 
mountains of the anthracite region, Broad and Beaver Meadow and Nescopec, with the 
lovely Wyoming, Mahanoy and Catawissa Valleys, rosy with rhododendrons, and enwalled 

by dark wooded ridges. The Valley of Wyoming 
is a rich alluvial plain, 20 miles long by three miles 
wide, enclosed by an ellipse of mountains, and 
X%. entered on the north through Lackawannock Gap, 
^^^■^ and on the south through Nanticoke Gap. Next 
-^ comes the exquisite Susquehanna Valley, ahundred 
^^^:. miles long, now opening out for a score of miles, 
and again narrowed to half that width by cultivated 
,^^;:^5vr^;. ,.-■ and rounded slaty hills. Elsewhere in the high- 

PHiLADELPHiA ; FAiRMouNT WATER-WORKS. lauds of Middle Pennsylvania occurs a succession 

of singular level valleys of limestone, surrounded by rocky mountains, and populated by 
thousands of well-to-do farmers. The unusual fertility of these glens brings forth wheat, 
corn and rye in great quantities, and their smiling fields are interspersed with dark-hued 
orchards and groves, and underlaid with laljyrinthine caverns. Prof Lesley says of this 
region: " Nowhere else on earth is its counterpart for the richness and definiteness of 
geographical detail. It is the very home of the picturesque in science as in scenery. Its 
landscapes on the Susquehanna, on the Juniata, and Potomac are unrivalled of their kind 
in the world." The entire Appalachian country is famous for these long valleys, which lie 
between its rampart ridges, like the Tuscarora Valley, stretching narrowly along for 50 
miles, with wooded highlands overhang- 
ing it on either side ; the famous Kisha- 
coquillas Valley, four miles wide, running 
50 miles northward, between Jack's 
Mountain and the Blue Ridge, to the 
lonely Seven Mountains, beyond Mil- 
roy, inhabited by German Awmish and 
Scotch-Irish Presbyterians ; the Juniata 
and Great Aughwick Valley, a hundred 
miles long, from Middleburg to Mary- Philadelphia ; first regiment armory. 






HARRISBURG : EXECUTIVE MANSION. 



718 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

land, between Shade Mountain and Jack's Mountain ; Stone Valley, enshrining in its cool 
depths Warrior's Ridge and the picturesque Raystown Juniata ; and the Bald-Eagle Valley, 
160 miles long, from Muncy to Maryland, varying in width from four to ten miles, and with 
the unbroken Allegheny ridge overlooking its many silvery 
streams. Path Valley lies east of the Tuscarora Mountains 
for 22 miles, and Amberson's Valley opens into it. McCon- 
nell's Cove, Friends' Cove, and many other picturesque glens 
are hidden among the great wooded ridges of the AUeghenies. 
The long Cumberland Valley, running south between Blue 
Mountain and South Mountain, is famous for its rich and 
tranquil beauty. The region of "the blue Juniata" is full of 
beauty and diversity, with its Long Narrows, between Shade 
Mountain and the Blue Ridge; and has several paradise-like 
tributary glens. Beyond the Sinking-Spring Valley, Canoe 
Valley runs south into Morrison's Cove, settled in 1755 by 
German Dunkards, non-resistants from principle. When 
the Indians burst into the valley, 20 years later, these gentle fatalists bowed their heads to 
the tomahawks, saying, "God's will be done," and so died. Nippenose Valley is a deep 
oval limestone basin, ten miles long, rich in farms, with the neighboring Muncy, West- 
Branch and White-Deer-Hole Valleys, opening into the wooded highlands. The Nittany 
Valley extends for no miles, with Bald-Eagle Mountain as its strong eastern wall, a fertile 
trough in the wilderness of hills, with the tributary glens of Brush Valley and Penn Valley, 
among the Seven Mountains, and Sinking-Spring Valley, 
whose hidden streams appear through the broken cavern- 
roofs, and Morrison's Cove, along the Little Juniata. The 
excisions of unknown thousands of years have carved this 
vast Allegheny plateau into many strange forms, like 
whales' backs, overturned ships, sharp sandstone peaks 
and cliffs, and long and regular terraces. It is a picturesque 
country, bearing a likeness to the Swiss Juras, with long 
parallel ridges, curving together at the ends of trough-like 
valleys, or ending abruptly in the midst of the narrow plains. 

The northern and western counties, on the broad uplands of the AUeghenies, sloping 
mainly toward the Great Lakes and the Mississippi, are occupied by 1,500,000 people. 
The world-renowned oil-regions are here, and the depof.its of bituminous coal, and many of 
the great iron and glass works. The long walls of Negro Mountain, Laurel Hill, and the 
continuous Laurel and Chestnut Ridges rise west of the AUeghenies, 2,500 feet high, and 
running southwest into Maryland and Virginia. Half of the State lies in this area, which 

extends 156 miles from north to south, with a breadth of 
175 miles on the New- York line, and 80 miles on the 
West- Virginia line. The wild Ligonier Valley runs down 
for 70 miles between the parallel walls of Laurel Hill and 
Chestnut Ridge, which are everywhere ten miles apart. 
In this section are the Glades of Somerset, settled by 
German Awmish and Dunkards; and the striking scenery 
of the Conemaugh and Turkey-Foot hills ; and the Ohio- 
Pile Falls, on the Youghiogheny River. There are no 
highlands west of Chestnut Ridge until the Rocky Moun- 
tains are reached. 

The Delaware River forms the eastern boundary of 

^■^ Pennsylvania, flowing 320 miles from its source in the 

MAucH CHUNK AND MOUNT pisGAH. CatskiU Mountaius, down to Delaware Bay. The Dela- 




PHILADELPHIA : CUSTOM HOUSE. 







THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



719 




CRESSON SPRINGS, 



M. ALLEGHENY MOUNTAINS. 



ware Water Gap is the passage cut by the river 
through the Kittatinny Mountain, whose sharp 
craggy peaks, Minsi and Tammany, rise 1,600 
feet on either side, forming a remarkable gorge, 
through which the river winds, 60 feet deep- 
There are great summer-hotels above ;he gap ; 
and the region is rich in water-falls, springs, 
cliffs and peaks. Twenty-eight miles southwest 
opens the Wind Gap, a remarkable pass in the 
Blue Mountain, and farther away the water-gaps 
of the Schuylkill, Swatara and Susquehanna cut deep down through the wall-like Kitta- 
tinny Mountain, which crosses the State for 180 miles. North of the Delaware Water Gap, 
the beautiful and historic valley that the Indians called the Minisink extends along the river 
for 40 miles, by Bushkill, Dingman's Ferry and Milford, to Port Jervis. The tides flow up 
to Trenton, by the head of ship navigation, at Philadelphia. Steamboats ascend the stream 
as far as Trenton, 132 miles, and smaller steamers have reached Easton. The Lehigh and 
Schuylkill, both tributaries of the Delaware, have canal and lock navigation. At the Le- 
high Water Gap the river traverses a deep wooded gorge through the Kittatinny Mountain, 
in a broad, swift flood, leaving barely room for the railway, highway and canal. A little 
way to the north, the picturesque hamlet of Mauch Chunk clings to the sides of the moun- 
tains, up which adventurous railways are laid. 

The Susquehanna River issues from Otsego Lake, and flows across Pennsylvania to the 
head of Chesapeake Bay, a distance of 400 miles. This noble 
stream is sometimes called the North Branch, dovrn as far as 
Northumberland, where it is joined by the West Branch, flow- 
ing down 200 miles from the Allegheny Mountains. From 
this confluence it is 153 miles to the mouth of the river, where 
jj^^'^i|; 7 it pours, a full mile wide, into the bay at Havre de Grace. 
The Susquehanna cannot be navigated by steamboats, on 
account of its shallowness and swiftness, but vast quantities of 
lumber are rafted down its broad reaches ; and along the val- 
ley run coal-bearing canals and first-class railways. The 
Juniata is a tributary, with canals and lock navigation ; and 
flows down from the Alleghenies for 150 miles, amid scenery 
of enchanting beauty. The Lackawanna River winds downward through the incomparable 
Valley of Wyoming, and enters the Susquehanna near Pittston. The Allegheny River, 250 
miles long, and the Monongahela River, from West Virginia, 250 miles long (with 80 miles 
in Pennsylvania), are navigable for '60 miles each, partly by slackwater. At their confluence, 
the great Ohio River begins, giving steamboat communication during eight months of the 
year with the remotest West and Southwest. The navigable depth of the Ohio is pre- 
served partly by the aid of the Davis-Island Dam, built by the United States in 1878-85, 
at a cost of $1,000,000, with 300 small movable dams, lying flat on the river-bed when 
there is plenty of water, and at other times lifted up so as to deepen the channel and raise 
the up-stream level. Turning from this region to the northwestern angle of the State, we 
can look out over Lake Erie from a coast-line of 45 miles, indented by the excellent harbo'- 
of Erie. This coast is the front of the singular Erie Tri- 
angle of 202,000 acres, pushing up into New York. Mas- 
sachusetts, Connecticut and New York claimed the Tri- 
angle, but each of them ceded its rights to the General 
Government, which sold it in 1788 to Pennsylvania, then 
desirous of getting a front on the lake. The payment 
was made in worthless Continental money. Philadelphia : riogway library. 





720 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



VJ 




ALLEGRIPPUS CURVE. 



Amid the highlands occur many episodes of scenic interest, 
like Crystal Cave, in Berks County, near Kutztown ; the great 
caverns of Kishacoquillas Valley ; Arch Spring and Cave, in 
Sinking-Spring Valley ; the Great Bear Cave, in Chestnut 
Ridge ; the Pack-saddle Narrows of the Conemaugh ; the Pul- 
pit Rocks, near HoUidaysburg ; and many others. The 
mountain-lands abound in pleasant summer-resorts, with many 
comfortable hotels, frequented during the season by thousands 
of people. The foremost of the highland resorts is Cresson, 
2,000 feet above the sea, where the Pennsylvania Railroad 
crosses the crest of the Allegheny Mountains, amid vast hem- 
lock and beech woods. In the beautiful environs of Phila- 
delphia are several other well-known summer-resorts, like the Wissahickon Inn, among the 
legend-haunted glens about Chestnut Hill ; the great Devon Inn, 600 feet above the sea, 
and overlooking the rich Chester Valley ; the Bryn-Mawr Hotel, in one of the fairest of 
suburbs ; the Bellevue, at Wayne ; and Beechwood, near Jenkintown. The State also pos- 
sesses many well-known mineral springs, serving as fountains of healing for many maladies. 
Among these are the Katalysine Springs, at Gettysburg, an alkaline water like that of 
Vichy; York Sulphur Springs, much visited by Baltimoreans in the first half of this cen- 
tury ; Carlisle Springs, with sulphur waters, at the base of the Blue 
Mountain ; Perry Warm Springs, with chalybeate waters at 70°, flowing 
from Quaker Hill ; Doubling-Gap Springs (sulphur and chalybeate) in a 
picturesque loop of the Blue Mountain, near the Cumberland Valley ; 
Mount-Holly Springs (sulphur), near Carlisle and 
the Great Valley ; Fayette Springs (chalybeate), near 
Laurel Hill ; Frankfort Springs, in Beaver County ; 
Bedford Springs (chalybeate), a famous old resort 
among the AUeghenies, opened in 1806; Minnequa 
Springs (sulphur), in the Towanda Valley ; Litiz 
Springs, in the Moravian country; Ephi-ata-Moun- 
tain Springs, on the highlands above Ephrata ; Wild- 
wood (iron and sulphur), on the Allegheny Mountains, near Cresson ; and Kiskiminetas, 
on the Coneinaugh. Only a few of these are now resorted to, the foremost and favorite be- 
ing Bedford Springs, which has pleasant accommodations, and oftentimes brilliant seasons. 
Agriculture employs 300,000 Pennsylvanians, to 1,200,000 otherwise engaged. There 
are over 200,000 farms, averaging nearly 100 acres each, valued at $1,200,000,000, 
and producing yearly above $200,000,000 in crops. Among their great harvests are 
42,000,000 bushels of corn, 35,000,000 bushels of oats, and 17,000,000 bushels of wheal, 
yearly. This is the first State in producing rye, with 5,000,000 bushels a year ; the 
second in buckwheat, with 4,000,000 bushels; the third in pota- 
16,000,000 bushels ; and the fourth in hay, with 3,000,000 tons. Over 
pounds of seed-leaf tobacco are raised here, much of it coming from 
York and Lancaster plains. This tobacco is from Havana 
seed, dark and aromatic, elastic and gummy, and much 
used for cigar-wrappers. Chester is famous for its nurseries. 
The southeastern counties are rich in fertile loam, much 
of it based on limestone ; and the remoter inland valleys 
afford the best of farming lands. The mountains have a 
thin and cold soil, of little value for agriculture. The live- 
stock exceeds 5,000,000 head — 1,800,000 being cattle, 
1, 800,000 sheep, 1,000,000 swine, and 500,000 horses 
The dairy products are of immense value. reading post 




-V-^J%--j,,^ 



PITTSBURGH : COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 




THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



72 1 





WILLIAMSPORT : POST-OFFICE, 



The Climate of Pennsylvania varies widely, 
from the deep and long-abiding snows and in- 
tense cold of the Allegheny winters to the genial 
equability of the southern counties and the high 
temperature of the southeast and the Ohio Valley, 
where the thermometer often marks 100°. The 
transition sometimes reaches 40° in a day, espec- 
ially in the central valleys, which are remarkable 

for their hot summers and frigid winters. A bland and temperate climate characterizes the 

Lake-Erie country. The rainfall varies from 36 inches in the 

west to 48 inches in the southeast. During the time 

when the ice is thawing, or after prolonged rains, the valleys 

of the great rivers are often visited by grievous disasters, 

when vast floods pouring from the mountains sweep over 

the narrow plains. The Delaware, Lehigh, Susquehanna, 

and Juniata have often wrought great damage in this 

manner. The mournful catastrophe at Johnstown, in 

1889, when the Conemaugh River, swelled by a burst- 
ing dam, swept away the city, and destroyed thousands 

of lives, will never be forgotten. 

The ancient forests have nearly vanished before the 

settler's axe, the charcoal-burners, and the makers of rail- 
road-ties, derricks, and timbers for mines. Great fires from 
time to time sweep over the forest counties, to be followed 
by leagues of stunted brushwood. The hemlock woods of 
Clearfield, Cambria, and Sullivan, "the Shades of Death" 
on the Lehigh, and the Allegheny white pines have all 
been of great value in the economic development of the 
State, and still produce immense quantities of lumber. The 
lumber product of Clinton County alone has reached 
nearly 3,000,000,000 feet, valued at over $40,000,000. In 
these woodlands bears and deer, panthers and wildcats, 
wolves and foxes, raccoons and otters, may still be found. 
Minerals. — Pennsylvania leads the Union in manufacturing iron, producing as much 

as all the other States combined. She is richer in ore than most others, and her people 

have developed this industry with wonderful ability and ingenuity ever since 1688, when 

William Penn operated a blast-furnace on the Delaware River. The first forge went into 

operation in 1720, at Coventry, Chester County; and by the time of the Revolution the 

State had numerous active iron-furnaces, whose products 

were in great demand just then. The first puddling and 

rolling mill in America began operations at Plumsock, 

Fayette County, in 1817. The product of pig-iron in the 

United States has passed that of Great Britain, and now 

amounts to 9,580,000 tons a year (1890), as against 

3,780,000 tons in 1880. In the year ending June 30, 1890, 

Pennsylvania made 1,842,193 tons of iron in her anthracite 

furnaces, 2,847,302 tons in coke and bituminous-coal fur- 
naces, and 17,886 tons of charcoal iron. Among her yearly 

products are 800,000 tons of Bessemer steel rails, 40,- 

000 tons of iron rails, and 136,000 tons of steel ingots. 

The Cornwall hills are composed of and underlaid with 




3^ 



PITTSBURGH : POST-OFFICE. 




magnetic iron ore, forming one of the most wonderful Pittsburgh 



DUQUESNE CLUB 



722 



A'/A^G'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




"te'f^ 









PHILADELPHIA ; SINGERLY BUILDING. 



deposits in the world. Nearly 9,000,000 tons of ore have been quarried here since 1740, 
and thrice that amount remains, besides the incalculable deposits below them. The cold- 
short and red-short shot and ball and pipe ore, of the finest brown hematite, is found in 

great open quarry-mines in the central valleys, and trans- 
ported by rail to the works, in the bituminous coal-region 
beyond the AUeghenies, and along the Lehigh and Schuyl- 
kill Valleys, where also large amounts of imported ores are 
used. 

In its vast stores of anthracite coal Pennsylvania has a 
notable advantage over other-States. Over 40,000,000 short 
tons a year are shipped from the mines, in egg, stove, chest- 
nut, pea and buckwheat sizes, and red-ash and white-ash 
varieties. There are three groups of parallel valleys in 
which the crumpled coal-measures appear. The Northern 
(or Wyoming and Lackawanna) field, with 150 collieries, 
and an annual output of 24,000,000 tons, is a crescent trough, 
50 miles by six: in area, with thirty coal-basins. The middle 
(or Lehigh and Mahanoy) field, with 125 collieries and an output of 14,000,000 tons, in- 
cludes the Lehigh and Beaver-Meadow plateaus, nearly 2,000 feet high, with steep rail- 
roads descending "to the Delaware Valley. The Southern coal-field has 40 collieries, with 
an output of 4,000,000 tons, and occupies the region between the 
Lehigh and Susquehanna, included between mountain-ranges, and 
traversed by the Schuylkill and Swatara Rivers. The choice Lykens- 
Valley coal comes from this region. The supplies of anthracite 
have hardly been touched, yet, and it is estimated that the known 
deposits in Pennsylvania will last for centuries. This is the 
best coal for domestic purposes in the world. Between 1820 
and 1877 the Pennsylvania fields shipped 628,000,000 tons of 
coal, the Wyoming district having held the lead since 1868. 
The anthracite-coal mines are divided into seven districts : Scran- 
ton, producing 8,500,000 tons a year; Pittston, 5,000,000; 
PHILADELPHIA: MASONIC TEMPLE. Wilkcs-Barrc, 7,500,000; Hazelton, 4,000,000; Shenandoah, 
5,400,000; Ashland, 4,700,000; and Pottsville, 2,300,000. The mine-cars are run to the 
tops of huge buildings called "breakers," 100 feet high and filled with toothed rollers, by 
which the coal is broken up. The various sizes are separated by bolting screens ; boys pick 
out the slate ; and the assorted coal descends by shoots into railway trains. The mining 
operations are attended with peril, and in a single year 832 men have been killed or 
maimed. 

The bituminous coal-fields run in six parallel valleys from New York to Ohio and West 
Virginia, in the third of the State west of the declivity of the AUeghenies, covering 12,245 
square miles with their flat beds, which have been estimated to contain 33,500,000,000 
tons. A third of this is in the Pittsburgh bed, 
where 220 collieries now get out 9,000,000 tons a 
year, along the Ohio, Monongahela and Youghio- 
gheny Rivers. The State authorities divide the 
bituminous field into eight districts : Monongahela 
City, producing 1,500,000 tons yearly; Irwin, 
5,400,000; Mercer, 2,100,000; Towanda, 4,200,- 
000; Connellsville, 4,600,000; Johnstown, 3,300,- 
000; Idlewood, 4,000,000; and Phillipsburg, 4,800,- 
000. The Monongahela Valley for 60 miles north 
of the West-Virginia line abounds in thick veins. 





PHILADELPHIA : 
HORTICULTURAL HALL, AND ACADEMY OF MUSIC. 



THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



723 



TIPPLE AND LOADING CHUTE, WEST 
EUREKA COLLIERY, NO. 2. 




PHILADELPHIA : BERWIND- 
WHITE COAL-MINING CO. 



The Berwind White Coal-Mining Com- 
pany was incorporated in iS86, as the suc- 
cessors of Berwind, White & Co., a coal- 
producing firm organized in 1874, from the 
still older firms of Berwind & Bradley and 
White & Lingle. The capital stock is 
$2,000,000, and its officers are Edward J. 
Berwind, president ; John E. Berwind, vice- 
president ; H. A. Berwind, secretary ; and 
F. McOwen, treasurer. The company 

owns and operates extensive coal-mines in the Clearfield region, 
mining what is known in the market as the "celebrated Eureka 
bituminous coal." They operate 29 collieries ; 22 at and around 
Houtzdale, two at Karthaus, and five at Horatio. The collieries have 
a capacity of upwards of 12,000 tons per day. The tonnage- of the 
company for 1889 aggregated over 2,500,000 tons. The works of 
the company are among the best-equipped in the bituminous-coal 
region, supplied with modern machinery calculated to expedite and 
economize the production of coal, as well as to insure its reaching 
the market in first-class condition. The company also own and op- 
erate 150 coke-ovens, turning out a very superior grade of coke, which 
finds a ready market among manufacturers and steel-workers. They 
own 1,250 coal-cars, and a fleet of 50 coal-barges, used exclusively for the delivery of coal 
to ocean-steamships in New-York harbor. The coal is a first-class steam-coal. Among 
its users are the Inman, North German Lloyd, Cunard, Hamburg and French lines, 
whose ocean greyhounds have a world-wide reputation. It is likewise largely used for roll- 
ing-mills, iron-works, forges, glass-works, and lime-kilns, in the burning of brick and fire- 
brick, and for kindred purposes. The mines are located on the Pennsylvania Railroad, over 
which they ship to tide-water for shipments coastwise and foreign, and to New York and 
the New-England States and Canada. Its shipping piers are located at Greenwich Point, 
Philadelphia ; Harsimus, Jersey City, New-York Harbor ; and Canton Piers, Baltimore. Its 
offices are in the Bullitt Building, Philadelphia; 55 Broadway, New York ; 19 Congress 
Street, Boston ; and the Rialto Building, Baltimore. The Berwind-White is the largest 
strictly coal company in America, employing 5,000 men, with a yearly output of $8,000,000. 
The gas-coal region consists of a basin 20 miles long and eight wide, at its widest point, 

starting on the Youghiogheny River and running 
northeasterly nearly to the Conemaugh River. 
The Pennsylvania Railroad crosses about its 
centre, and the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad taps 
its southwestern side. A large number of de- 
tached pieces of coal lie to the westward, between 
the Mtjnongahela and Allegheny Rivers. Owing 
to the broken nature of the seam, the mining 
there is very difficult, while in the main basin the 
uniformity of the deposit renders the coal much 
more dependable. Its quality is better on the 
western side than on the eastern, being freer from 
sulphur and ash. A small basin lies northeast 
of the main basin, near Saltsburg, the coal containing a large amount of sulphur and many 
slate partings. In the south of the main basin the coal is characterized by increase in sul- 
phur, and is more friable than that mined on the western side. An immense body of inferior 
Pittsburgh coal lies west of the Youghiogheny and Monongahela, and is mined for shipment 




MINING COAL. WESTMORELAND COAL COMPANY. 



724 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




WESTMORELAND COAL COMPANY. 



by water, to the Ohio and lower Mississippi. The 
Westmoreland Coal Company, incorporated in 
1854, shipped the first gas-coal ever sent from the 
Pittsburgh region to the Atlantic coast. Hitherto, 
the gas companies on the seaboard had been sup- 
plied from England, but from the moment the 
Westmoreland coal commenced to compete, such 
was its superiority in quality, that the use of the 
imported article diminished and in a few years 
ceased. The pioneer company has never lost its 
supremacy, and to-day is far ahead of all Ameri- 
can competitors in extent of acreage of coal, in 
value and perfection of equipment, in its method of 
mining, and in the character of its output. The 
introduction in late years of gas-producers, and 
the general desire of manufacturers to secure a 
coal of high heating power, coupled with freedom 
from sulphur and phosphorus, has greatly increased 
the business of this company. There is scarcely 
a place in the Eastern United States, Canada or 
the West Indies'* where the Westmoreland Coal 
Company's product is not well and favorably 
known. 
Coke was made in America 73 years ago, and is now a more or less important product 

of 18 States. The largest amount and the finest quality comes from the famous Connells- 

ville region of Pennsylvania, whose output represents three fourths of the American pro- 
duction. It has built up the enormous pig-iron industry west of the Allegheny Mountains. 

The use of coke in making pig-iron began in England in 

1735, but over a century passed before it awakened any 

interest among American iron-masters. In 187 1 Frick & 

Co. built 50 ovens, and added 150 more in 1872. Henry C. 

Frick has been the leading spirit in developing and con- 
solidating the coke manufacture, and providing railways 

for the transportation of its output, and is to-day the ac- 
knowledged head of the coke industry. The H. C. Frick 

Coke Company was formed in 1882, and has a capital of 

$5,000,000, owning and controlling 35,000 acres 

of coal-land, 10,000 ovens, 35 miles of railway 

(with 2, 700 cars and 23 locomotives), 72 pairs of 

stationary engines, and 172 steam boilers. The 

company employs 11,000 men. This makes the 

foremost coke-producing concern in the world 

There are three great breakers, where the coke 

is crushed into a variety of sizes, and shipped 

away for domestic uses, forging and 

manufacturing. The 83 mines supply 

16,000 bee-hive fire-brick ovens, 

twelve feet in diameter, and 6|- fett 

high, in which the coal is burned into 

a porous and tenacious silvery-lustred 

coke, with 90 per cent, of carbon. The l^^^p^WS^^BB^Bll^^H coke-making by the 

yearly product is 7,000,000 tons. ^•jj ^^ ^^ ^ S^aaM^B^^B h. c. frick coke company. 




THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



725 




PHILADELPHIA : MARY J. DREXEL HOME. 



From the earliest times the Seneca Indians applied 
[letroleum externally to heal wounds and sprains on men 
and animals, and Seneca oil became a favorite medicine 
with the early white settlers. When whale-oil and 
vegetable oils grew scarce and high, efforts were made 
to extract oil from coal and shale, for illuminating pur- 
poses. The development of the American petroleum 
industry dates from the report of Prof. B. Silliman, Jr., 
of Yale, on the oil sent him from the springs near Titus- 
ville. The Seneca Oil Company was organized at New 
Haven, and in 1857 sent E. L. Drake to drill a well in 
this region. The success of the enterprise (in 1859) resulted in the development of a colos- 
sal new business. There have been over 25,000 producing wells in operation at one time ; 
and for three years on a stretch the average daily product has exceeded 75,000 barrels. The 
yearly consumption has risen from 10,000,000 barrels in 1876 to nearly 30,000,000 barrels, 
and is still increasing. Three fifths of this is exported. The accumulations of crude pe- 
troleum in tanks reached 40,000,000 barrels in 1885, but there is only about half that quan- 
tity now. The Bradford oil field has produced 150,000,000 barrels. The Titusville field 
has yielded about 60,000,000 barrels ; and Butler and Clarion Counties, 70,000,000. Pe- 
troleum has been sold as low as five cents a barrel, and is the playthhig of speculators and 
r, ,. monopolies. The oil-districts cover 369 square 

miles, and the petroleum comes from deep-lying 
strata of sand and sand-rock. The supply is visi- 
bly declining. Latterly the oil-country has been 
moving southward, with the development of the 
Washington and Eureka fields, and Pittsburgh for 
a time was the centre of the business, many of the 
older oil-towns being entirely deserted. At first, 
the petroleum was hauled from the wells four miles 
to Oil Creek, and floated on rafts or flat-boats down to Oil City, where steamboats 
awaited it. There were a thousand flat-boats and 30 steamers engaged in the business. The 
wooden tank-cars of 1865, and the 5,000-gallon boiler-iron tank-cars of 1870, were intro- 
duced by the railroads. The pipe-lines began in 1865, from Pithole to Miller's farm; and 
now include the Seaboard, from Olean to Saddle River, N. J., 300 miles ; the Pennsylvania, 
from Colegrove to Philadelphia, 280 miles ; the Cleveland, from Hilliards, loO miles ; 
the Buffalo, from Four Mile, 70 miles ; the Baltimore, from Midway, 70 miles ; and the 
famous Tidewater Line, to Bayonne, N. J. These lines consist of wrought-iron pipes, laid 
two feet underground, and running straight away across the country, up hill and down, 
through villages and cities, and under rivers (as a branch of the Seaboard line runs under 
the Hudson and East Rivers and through Central Park to the refineries at Hunter's Point). 
There are 4,000 miles of pipes in the oil-regions, also. In the valleys along the greater lines 
are pumping-stations, each with seven 
men, and powerful pumping-engines 
working day and night and sending the 
oil forward in an uninterrupted stream. 
At Friedensville are famous zinc- 
mines, opened in 1853, and producing 
$400,000 worth yearly, which is manu- 
factured at South Bethlehem into zinc 
white, sheet zinc and spelter. On the 
Juniata occur vast beds of hard white 
silicious sandstone, 20, 000 tons of which hazelton : miners' hospital. 




PHILADELPHIA : EPISCOPAL HOSPITAL. 




726 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



are taken out yearly, for glass-making. The quarries at Slatington, near the Lehigh, 
employ 600 men, and export vast quantities of the finest blue-blaek slate, of pure clay, for 
billiard-tables and mantels, blackboards and slates, flooring and roofing. These are the fore- 
most quarries of American slate ; and York and Lancaster Counties also have large inter- 
ests in this industry. 

Marble of many varieties, from black to white, is found in the Great Valley, in Chester 
County, and has been quarried in immense quantities in Montgomery County. The gray 
marble of Swatara is of marked beauty. Serpentine, or greenstone, largely used in fine build- 




ham, and elsewhere in 
ties. The State is sin- 
like the mineral paint 
Schuylkill; fire-clay of 




PHILADELPHIA : 
PENNSYLVANIA HOSPITAL AND INSANE HOSPITALS. 



ings, is quarried at Birming- 
Chester and Delaware Coun- 
gularly rich in other minerals, 
of Parryville; steatite of 
Clearfield, Farrandsville and 
I^ock Haven ; flag-stones of 
Bradford, Pike and other lo- 
calities ; bluestone of Tunk- 
hannock and Meshoppen ; 
chrome of Chester County; graphite of Upper 
Uwchlan in Chester ; silver - bearing lead, 
mined in large quantities in Chester ; nickel of 
Lancaster County ; lead and copper of Phoenix- 
ville; salt of Kiskiminetas; sandstone of Swatara 
and Schuylkill; whetstone of Darby •■ Creek ; 
granite of Delaware and Philadelphia, taken out 
in large quantities; and the kaolin of Pennsbury 
and New Garden, used for making porcelain 
and china. Lancaster furnishes about all the 
nickel for the American coinage. 

The Government of Pennsylvania dwells in 
a governor, lieutenant-governor and secretary of 
internal affairs, elected for four years, and other executive officers; and a general assembly of 50 
senators, elected by the people for four years, and 204 representatives elected for two years. 
The Supreme Court has seven judges, elected for 21 years ; and there are 48 district courts; 
with Federal Courts at Philadelphia, Williamsport, Erie and Pittsburgh. The State 
Capitol, at Harrisburg, a dignified, comfortable and rather quaint structure, dates from 
1819-22, and has a portico upheld by sandstone pillars, opening into a rotunda, with the 
Senate Chamber on one side and the House of Representatives on the other. The State 
Library (30,000 volumes) contains portraits of 30 Governors ; and near the Adjutant-Gen- 
eral's office are the 330 flags of the Pennsylvania troops in the Secession War. 

The National Guard of Pennsylvania composes a division of three brigades, including 15 

regiments and five companies of infantry, three troops of 
cavalry and three batteries, in all 136 companies, includ- 
ing over 8,000 men, enlisted for three years, and com- 
pelled to do duty during that time, or suffer arduous 
penalties. The State appropriates $300,000 yearly to 
this force, which, when in service, receives rough soldiers' 
fare, and is quartered in floorless tents. The infantry is 
armed with breech-loading Springfield rifles. The uni- 
c't| forms conform to those of the regular army. This is 
=% probably the most homogeneous and serviceable body 
of citizen-soldiery in the Union, approximating most 
PHILADELPHIA : UNION LEAGUE. nearly to the regular army, and costing each tax- 




THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



727 




PHILADELPHIA : 



HE ART CLUB. 



payer less than in any of the five other States with large forces. The First lir-igadc, with 
headquarters at Philadelphia, includes the First, Second, Third and Sixth Regiments of 
Infantry, the Battalion State Fencibles, Gray Invinci- 
bles, Battery A, and the First Troop Philadelphia City 
Cavalry. The Second Brigade has its headquarters at 
Williamsport, and includes the Fifth, Tenth, 14th, i6th 
and 1 8th Infantry, the Sheridan Troop, of Tyrone, and 
Battery B, of Pittsburgh. The Third Brigade includes 
the Fourth, Eighth, Ninth, Twelfth and 13th Infantry, 
Battery C, and the Governor's Guard. The State 
Camp is at Mount Gretna, near Lake Conewago and sur- 
rounded by the beautiful South-Mountain range, in a 
region of great landscape charm. There are 5,000 
acres of mountain and woodland and dale open to 
the manoeuvers of the troops ; a parade-ground over a mile long and half a mile wide ; 
an admirable rifle-range; and artillery-ranges of 3,000 yards. This great estate is owned 
and kept in order and loaned to the State by Robert H. Coleman. In 1889, the three bat- 
teries and three troops of horse encamped here, and at the same time three batteries and two 
troops of United-States regulars were stationed near them, as an object-lesson for the 
militia. In 1884 and 1887 the National Guard went into division encampments at Gettys- 
burg and Mount Gretna, having upwards of 7,500 men with the colors each time. The 
armory of the First Regiment, at Philadelphia, is a strong castellated Gothic building, with 
high towers and a large drill-hall. The State Arsenal at Harrisburg contains large arma- 
ments ready for use, and has also Mexican artillery captured at Cerro Gordo, and four can- 
non, brought to America by d'Estaing and given to Congress by Lafayette. The Soldiers' and 
Sailors' Home, established in 1885, occupies the former Marine Hospital at Erie and several 
new buildings, on a domain of 102 acres, with 300 veterans of the Secession War. 

Charities and Corrections. — Pennsylvania appropriates $1,000,000 a year to its hos- 
pitals and miners' hospitals and other charities. The paupers and insane have apparently 
grown alarmingly in numbers since 1880, although the convict class has not kept up with 
the population. Besides the State, county and municipal institutions, there are 56 hos- 
pitals, ten dispensaries, and 155 homes and asylums, with property valued at over $30,000,- 
000 (not including Girard College). There are 56,000 persons kept in the prisons and hos- 
pitals, or in receipt of relief from the towns. The Eastern Penitentiary, at Philadelphia, 
opened in 1829, has about 1,300 convicts, confined in separate cells (the only cellular 
prison in the United States). This has been regarded by many penologists as the best 
prison in America. Every convict is taught a trade, and kept at work. Of late years the 
severity has been mitigated. The Western Penitentiary at Allegheny (opened in 1826) has 
690 convicts, and is conducted on the congregate system. There are above 70 county jails 
and work-houses, with 3,500 prisoners. The Philadelphia House of Refuge and the Re- 
form School at Morganza (in southwestern Pennsylvania) hold 1,200 youthful offenders. 
The Industrial Reformatory at Huntington cost $900,000, and was occupied in 1888. It is 
for young men between 15 and 25, first offenders, who are released when it seems probable 
that they have reformed. The State asylums at Harrisburg, Dixmont (seven miles from 

Pittsburgh), Warren, Danville, and Norristown, and the in- 
sane asylums at Philadelphia contain 6,000 insane persons, 
two thirds of whom are indigent. The Training-School for 
Feeble-minded Children, near Media, contains 700 in- 
mates, on a farm of 200 acres. The Institution for the 
Instruction of the Blind was founded at Philadelphia 
in 1833, and has 200 students. There are also indus- 
trial homes for the blind at Philadelphia. The Institu- 




PHILADELPHIA : POST-OFFICE. 



728 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

tion for the Deaf and Dumb arose at Philadelphia in 1820, and has 430 pupils (mostly 
beneficiaries), who are also taught tailoring, sewing and shoemaking. The Western Penn- 



sylvania Institution for the Deaf and 
children in its care. Philadelphia 
vate and denominational charities, 
maintained at vast expense by the 
and abounding in benefits to the de- 

The House of Refuge, at Glen 
ings, erected in 
of $500,000, on a 
acres. This is a 
can maintain 1,200 
50, each of which 
The cottages, work - 
form an open quad - 
inga beautiful view 

The United- 
tions in Pennsyl- 
and important. 
Post-Office, built 
in 1873 84, at a cost of 




LADELPHIA : THE PUBLIC BUILDING. 



Dumb, at Wilkinsburg, has 160 

and other cities have scores of pri- 

hospitals, schools and asylums, 

contributions of charitable people, 

fective and impoverished classes. 

Mills, has eleven Queen- Anne buiid- 

1889-91, at a cost 

domain of 350 

private charity, and 

boys, in families of 

occupies a cottage. 

shops and chapel 

rangle, command- 

I- of Chester County. 

States Institu- 

vania are numerous 

The Philadelphia 

entirely of granite, 



,000,000, is the most imposing National structure in the State. 
The Philadelphia Custom- House occupies a noble Doric structure of white marble, copied 
after the Parthenon, and erected for the United-States Bank, in 1819-24. There are hand- 
some National buildings at Pittsburgh, Erie, and several other cities. Fort Mifflin, the only 
National fortress in Pennsylvania (and now ungarrisoned), guards the Delaware River be- 
low Philadelphia. In 1777 this defence was bombarded for six days and nights, by 358 
British cannon, until its every gun was dismounted, and 250 out of the 300 brave Mary- 
landers whc formed the garrison had been killed or wounded. The Schuylkill Arsenal was 
founded at Philadelphia in 1800, and covers eight acres. Here from 700 to 1,200 women 
and 150 men are engaged in making the clothing, tents and bedding for the United-States 
Army, including all articles, from stockings to helmets. Twenty 
million dollars has been expended here in a single year. The 
Frankford Arsenal, at Philadelphia, has handsome and spacious 
grounds, with many fine old trees, overarching the green 
lawns, whose decorations are brass cannon 
and pyramids of black cannon-balls. This 
is the only Government factory for making 
metallic cartridges for small-arms ; and it 
also produces fine tools and instruments 
and a few weapons. During the Secession 
War alternating gangs of men worked 
nights and days, Sundays and holidays 
alike, making up cartridges. The Alle- 
gheny Arsenal occupies spacious and highly 
ornamented grounds at Pittsburgh, and has many large buildings, for the making of military 
equipments, but now used only for storing ordnance and ordnance-stores. The Navy Yard 
at League Island covers 923 acres, at the confluence of the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers, 
90 miles from the sea, and at one of the most important strategic points on the Atlantic 
coast. It is close to the great coal and iron region of America, and the available skilled 
labor of a great manufacturing city, and the fresh water of the surrounding channels is 
favorable for the preservation of iron ships. The yard has been practically closed for some 
years, but a board of naval officers has recently advocated the expenditure of $15,000,000, 




BRYN MAWR : BRYN-MAWR COLLEGE. 



THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



729 




PHILADELPHIA : THE UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



to make it the foremost dock-yard of America. In a lovely flower-decked park of 25 acres, 
stretching along the Schuylkill River, at 
Philadelphia, stands the great marble pile of 
the United-States Naval Asylum, with its 
Ionic portico and trophy cannon. Here are 
pleasant accommodations for 200 "decrepit 
and disabled naval officers, seamen and 
marines," entitled to this rest by 20 years 
of man-of-war service ; and furnished by the 
Government with pocket-money and tobacco. 
Each man has a room to himself, and there is 
a spacious dining-hall and a chapel. A large Naval Hospital stands on the Asylum grounds. 
The Indian Training School was founded at Carlisle in 1879, ^"^ is managed and sup- 
ported by the National Government, to educate and civilize the young people of the bar- 
barous tribes. There are 800 students, mainly Apaches and Pueblos, Sioux and Oneidas, 
Cheyennes and Crows, with members of 37 other tribes. The boys wear blue uniforms similar 
to that of the American Army, and receive military and gymnastic drill. The discipline is 
not austere, but kindly ; and the young Indians show great aptitude in their varied studies, 
as well as in base-ball and other sports. Each student devotes half of the day to the usual 

grammar-school branches, and the other half to 
various mechanical trades, or useful industries. 
Many of the students are "planted of|t" during 
vacation in white families, to dwell and work 
with them ; and some remain, and attend the 
public schools during the winter, while others 
become apprentices and permanent workmen in 
established industries. The central idea of the 
school : "You must die as Indians, but rise as 
men and women," is continually kept in view by 
Capt. R. H. Pratt, the superintendent. This 
plan looks toward the extinction of the aboriginal languages and tribal relations, and the 
merging of all the Indians into the great composite mosaic of the American people. The 
United-States Barracks at Carlisle were built in 1777 by Hessian prisoners from Trenton, 
and burned by Confederate troops in 1863. In 1866 they were rebuilt, and used as a 
cavalry-school for army recruits until 1872, after which the property lay abandoned until 
the Indian school arose. They form three sides of a square, surrounding a beautiful 
parade-ground, and making a pleasant home for the wards of the Nation. 

Lincoln Institute is an Episcopal school at Philadelphia, partly supported by the Gov- 
ernment, and educating in the arts of civilized life 200 Indian boys and girls, from 18 tribes. 
The Pennsylvania Hospital occupies a range of quaint structures, built at Philadelphia 
in 1755, since which 120,000 patients have been treated within its walls. The Episcopal 
Hospital at Philadelphia is of great size and good fame. The Mary J. Drexel Home, built 
in Philadelphia at a cost of $500,000 in 1886-8, is a magnificent Gothic structure, of im- 
ported yellow German brick, serving as a mother-house and school for German deaconesses. 
Education is administered in public-school property valued at $40,000,000. The 
yearly cost of the schools is above i| 12,000,- 
000, and 1,200,000 children of school age 
enjoy the advantages of this magnificent sys- 
tem. There are 13 normal schools, at West- 
chester, Millersville, Kutztown, Mansfield, 
Bloomsburg, Shippensburg, Lock Haven, 
Indiana; California, Slippery Rock, Edin- 




PHILADELPHIA : ACADEMY OF NATURAL SCIENCES. 




I%U. 



ARTHMORE COLLEGE. 



73° 




A'LWG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ■ 

boro and Clarion. Ten million dollars have been spent 
by the State in its schools for soldiers' orphans, which 
contained at one time 2, 250 pupils. The Pennsylvania 
State College began in 1859, as the Farmers' High 
School, and received the United-States land-grant of 
1862, becoming a prosperous industrial, agricultural 
and military school, on a400-acre farm near Bellefonte. 
Tuition is free for Pennsylvanian young men and women. 
The University of Pennsylvania was opened as an 
academy, in 1751, at Benjamin Franklin's suggestion. 
GETTYSBURG PENNSYLVANIA COLLEGE. From 1828 to 1872 it occupicd the sitc of the present 
Philadelphia Post-Office, and it now has a beautiful location in West Philadelphia, with 
grounds covering 40 acres, near the Schuylkill River. The main building is a handsome 
piece of collegiate Gothic architecture, with the department of Arts in one wing and the 
department of Sciences in the other. Near by are the Library, Biological Hall, Labor- 
atory, Hospital, Veterinary College and Hospital, Medical Hall and Laboratory, and 
House for Nurses. The University also has a well-dii-ected gymnasium and athletic grounds. 
The Medical School was founded in 1765, and is one of the most famous in America, 
with more than 10,000 alumni, and an advanced post-graduate department. Over 200 of 
its students come from outside of Pennsylvania, includ- 
ing 30 from abroad. The University library of 8o,oco 
volumes qj^ntains several valuable special collections. 
The University has 180 professors and instructors, and 
1,325 students, of whom 430 are academic, 490 medi- 
cal, 160 in dentistry, 70 in veterinary medicine, 30 in 
biology, 125 in law, and 60 in philosophy. 

The Lehigh University owes its 'foundation to Judge 
Asa Packer, who, in 1865, gave $500,000 and 115 
acres of land for this purpose, and followed it with a 
legacy of $2,000,000, to provide for the young men of 
the Lehigh Valley a complete scientific and literary 
education, without charge for tuition. The costly and handsome University buildings stand 
on a terrace of South Mountain, at South Bethlehem. Besides the usual halls, there is a 
large gymnasium, the Sayre Observatory, a beautiful stone church, several completely 
equipped laboratories, and a Venetian-Gothic library, of Potsdam sandstone, containing 
80,000 volumes. Nearly half of the 420 students come from outside of Pennsylvania, in- 
cluding 12 from foreign countries. Over 380 study in either one of the courses of civil, 
mechanical, mining, or electrical engineering, or analytical chemistry, and only 40 are in the 
literary and classical courses. Lehigh is under the care of the Episcopal Church. 

Lafayette College occupies tlie beautiful heights above Easton, at the Forks of the Dela- 
ware, where the tortuous and mountain-born Lehigh and the lovely Bushkill flow into the 
greater Delaware. Lafayette received its charter in 1826, but languished for 40 years, with 
dingy buildings and feeble classes. In 1863 an attempt was 
made to close it, but the Presbyterian Synod, whose care 
and patronage it enjoyed, voted and acted to sustain the 
college. It now has a dozen or more buildings, amid beau- 
tiful park-like lawns and shrubbery, and with remarkable 
views over the great adjacent valleys. There are 27 in- 
structors and 309 students. The influences are sturdily 
Presbyterian. Among the studies for which the college is 
famous are philolosfv, and mining and engineering, the latter 

PHILADELPHIA: ' _=>■" . . => " ^ 

ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS. favorcd by llic neighboring mines and furnaces. 




- J^"^^v-;^:::^-!asai!^ ' 



SOUTH BETHLEHEM : 
PACKER HALL, LEHIGH UNIVERSITY. 




THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



731 



Washington and Jefferson College, at Washington, in southwestern Pennsylvania, was 
constituted in 1865 by the union of Jefferson College (chartered in 1802) and Washington 
College (1806). It has eleven instructors and 176 students, under Presbyterian influence. 

Allegheny College began its work in 1815, and in 1833 became a Methodist institution, 
which now has 178 students (and 135 preparatory), and good buildings on a pleasant hill- 
top near Meadville. Dickinson College, chartered in 1783, and acquired by the Methodists 
in 1833, has 93 students in its handsome ancient and modern stone halls at Carlisle. Frank- 
lin and Marshall College, at Lancaster, is a venerable Reformed institution, with 87 students. 
Lebanon- Valley College (1866), five miles west of Lebanon, belongs to the United Brethren. 

Mercersburg College (1866), with 54 students, per- 
tains to the Reformed Church. Muhlenberg Col- 
lege (1867) is Lutheran, and has 75 students, at 
Allentown. Lincoln University in 1866 succeeded 
Ashmun Institute (founded in 1854), and 
its broad campus and buildings crown a 
hill in Lower Oxford, amid the pastoral 
scenery of Chester. It is a Presbyterian 
school, devoted to educating colored men, 
and has 200 students. The Lebanon 
Classis of the Reformed Church conducts the little Palatine College (1867), at Myerstown. 
Bucknell University, at Lewisburg, on the West Branch of the Susquehanna, is a Baptist 
college, with an academy and an institute for young women, dating from 1845. Waynes- 
burg, 46 miles south of Pittsburgh, has a large college of ^^^ buildinqs. 
the Cumberland Presbyterians, founded in 185 1, and with 
150 students. The richly endowed Western University 
dates from 1819, and has its seat at Pittsburgh, near the 
Monongahela. The Allegheny Observatory, connected 
with this institution, is one of the most useful in America 






Pennsylvania College arose in 1832, at Gettysburg, and 
is a reputable Lutheran school, with 119 students. The 
Hicksite Friends educate their young people at Swarthmore 
College, ten miles from Philadelphia, where there is a group 
of handsome stone buildings, on an estate of 240 acres, half 
park and half farm. The college has 20 instructors and 165 students, and a preparatory 
school of 82 students. In a mellow-tinted stone house still standing among the fine old 
trees on the college grounds, Benjamin West, the President of the Royal Academy, was born 
in 1738. Haverford College was founded in 1833 by the Orthodox Friends as a high school, 
and became a college in 1856. It now has 14 instructors and ill students, in the classics, 
science and engineering. It is nine miles from Philadelphia, with commodious buildings on 
a beautiful campus of 60 acres, laid out by an English gardener more than half a century 
ago, and containing an unusual variety of fine trees. The library has 18,000 volumes; and 
there are' valuable museums and laboratories, observatory and gymnasium. Among other 



732 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



colleges are Ursinus (Reformed), in Luzerne County; Westminster (U. P.), at New Wil- 
mington ; Central Pennsylvania (Evangelical), at New Berlin ; and Theil at Greenville. 

Bryn-Mawr College was opened in 1885, for the advanced education of women, and has 
a park of 40 acres, near Philadelphia, with the handsome stone buildings of Taylor Hall, 
Denbigh Hall, Merion Hall, and Radnor Hall, and a completely equipped gymnasium. 
This noble institution was endowed with f 1,000,000, by Dr. J. W. Taylor, of Burlington, 
N. J. It has 21 instructors and 80 students. Its courses are on the group system, like 
those at Johns-Hopkins University, with major and minor electives ; and there are advanced 
post-graduate courses of high value. Pennsylvania has many large and important academies 
and seminaries, attended by thousands of pupils. The Friends conduct several very ancient 
schools of this kind, like that at Jenkintown, founded in 1713 ; Langhorne, 1790; Lahaska, 
1 794 ; Westtown, 1 799 ; and others. They also have at Philadelphia an Institute for Colored 
Youth. The famous Pennsylvania Military Academy, at Chester, is practically a college, 
granting degrees. Ogontz School, for girls, occupies the noble mansion built for Jay Cooke, 
near Philadelphia. 

Of the many schools of Pennsylvania none has the historic interest of the William Penn 
Charter School of Philadelphia. This school, in point 
of age ranks fourth in the United States, its only seniors 
being the Boston Latin School (1635), the Roxbury 
(Mass.) Latin School (1645), and the Plopkins Gram- 
mar School, of New Haven, Connecticut (1660). It 
was founded in 1689; incorporated by the Provincial 
Council, in 1698; in 1701-1708-1711 received char- 
ters from William Penn ; and for more than 200 years 
it has carried forward its work without a break (even 
during the Revolution), and still maintains the high 
reputation established at the outset. The staff con- 
sists of a Head-Master and 18 assistants. A large 
property adjoining the Friends' Meeting House on 
Twelfth Street, in the heart of the city, is occupied Philadelphia: william penn charter school. 
by the school. The buildings are all modern, handsome in appearance, substantially builf 
of brick, and thoroughly appointed ; and contain class-rooms for 350 boys, a gymnasium, 
assembly-room, chemical and physical laboratories, a draughting room, library, and all the 
accessories of a completely-equipped modern school. The gymnastic exercises and the out- 
door sports, for which there are exceptional facilities, and for which the school is justly 
famous, are under the direction of men specially qualified for such work. There is a play- 
ing field of six acres in the suburbs. There are three departments — the senior, junior, and 
lower, each of which has a separate staff of instructors. From 30 to 40 boys are sent to 
college each year. This venerable institution, though foun^led 200 years ago, "at the re- 
quest, costs, and charges of the people of God called Quakers," is now, in its organization 
and methods, under the Head-mastership of Richard M. Jones, M. A., one of the most 
modern, and anticipates in some features what is likely to be the school of the future. 

Crozer Theological Seminary at Upland is' a rich Baptist school, opened in 1867. The 

Episcopal Divinity School, at West Philadel- 
phia, founded in 1862, has 26 students. The 
Lutheran Theological Seminary at Gettysburg, 
dates from 1826, and has 700 alumni and 47 
students. The Lutheran Missionary Institute 
at Selinsgrove has ten students. The Evan- 
gelical Lutheran Seminary at Philadelphia 
(1864) is a strong institution, with 62 students. 
The Moravian Theological Seminary, founded 




SUP m^^~€ 




PHILADELPHIA LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA 



THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



733 




PHILADELPHIA : LIBRARY OF PHILADELPHIA. 



of St Charles 
Clowned with 
'^tructors 



and 



at Nazareth in 1807, is at Bethlehem, and has four pro- 
fessors and 25 students. The Western Theological 
Teminary at Allegheny City, opened in 1827, as a Pres- 
byierian school, has six professors, 33 students and 
1,500 alumni. It has three halls, and a library of 21,000 
volumes. There is a divinity school for colored Presby- 
terians at Lincoln University, founded in 1871. The 
United-Presbyterian Seminary at Allegheny City dates 
from 1825. There is a Reformed- Presbyterian Semi- 
nary at Allegheny City. The Evangelical Lutheran 
Theological Seminary, at Mount Airy, near Philadel- 
phia, has 65 students and 500 alumni, and a library of 20,000 volumes. Meadville Theo- 
logical School was founded in 1844, and appertains to the Unitarians. It has six instructors 
and 38 students, with a library of 18,000 books. The Theological Seminary of the Re- 
formed Church, founded in 1825 at Carlisle, moved successively to York, Mercersburg, and 
Lancaster. It has three professors and 42 students, and is endowed mainly with funds 
raised in Germany. This sect also has a divinity school at Ursinus College, 30 miles north- 
west of Philadelphia. The Catholic Theological Semniaiy 
Borromeo, near Philadelphia, with its noble buildmgs, 
domes, is a powerful diocesan institution, with twelve m 
140 students. Villa-Nova College, six miles 
distant, has several stone buildings, on a far- 
viewing knoll, and is conducted by Augustinian 
monks. It has a large farm, and a beautiful 
Gothic church. There are also Catholic 
divinity-schools at Beatty (1846) and Ger- 
mantown (1818), provided with large libraries. 
The great medical schools of Pennsylvania 
contain 2,600 students, and have a continental 
reputation for efficiency. The Jefferson Medi- 
cal College, at Philadelphia, is one of the most 
celebrated schools in the Republic, with admirable and extensive museums, and over 500 
students. The Woman's Medical College, of Philadelphia, the first in the world, has hand- 
some buildings and a large hospital, and 161 students. The Hahnemann Medical College, 
at Philadelphia, is the oldest and foremost homeopathic school of America, and has large 
dispensaries and hospitals attached. The Medico-Chirurgical and Orthopedic Colleges, the 
Medical Department of the University, and the Philadelphia Polyclinic are at Philadelphia. 

Pittsburgh also has a medical school. Philadelphia has 
colleges of dentistry, pharmacy and veterinary medicine. 
Ciirard College occupies a high-walled campus of 
41 acres, at Philadelphia, with several white marble 
buildings, the chief of which was designed and built by 
Thomas U. Walter (the architect of the United-States 
Capitol), in 1833-47, and ranks as the most magnifi- 
cent piece of Corinthian temple-architecture in America. 
The rich surrounding colonnades, the floors and walls, 
and even the roof, are of white marble, and show un- 
usual massiveness of construction. This building con- 
tains the library, museums and class-rooms ; and on 
either side are the plain and commodious dormitories and 
other structures. The college was founded by Stephen 
Girard, a French sailor and Philadelphia merchant, who 




LLEGHENY CITY CARNEGIE LIBRARY 




734 



AVAG'S IIANDJyQOK OF THE fNlTEI) STATES. 




SOUTH BETHLEHEM : 
PACKER MEMORIAL CHURCH. 



left to the city, in 1831, an estate valued now at above %\ i,(X)0,ooo, mainly to 
build and maintain an institution for educating poor white fatherless boys 
between six and ten years of age, supporting them for eight years, and in- 
structing them from the alphabet up to high-school studies. Girard Col'ege 
now has nearly 100 instructors and officers, and 1,600 studf nts ; 
and 250 more lads are waiting their turn to enter. 

The Drexel Industrial Institute, nobly endowed by A. |. 
Drexel, with $1,500,000, was dedicated at West Philadelphia 
in 1 89 1, in a handsome Renaissance building, with free indus- 
trial day and evening classes for over 2,000 boys and girls, and 
lecture-hall, museum and library. Another interesting institu- 
tion is the Nautical School, for the naval education of Pennsyl- 
vanian boys, and occupying the sloop-of-war Saratoga. 

Pennsylvania has nearly 50 libraries of above 10,000 volumes 
each. The largest is the Mercantile Library of Philadelphia, with 165,000 volumes. The 
Library of Philadelphia was founded in 1731, by Benjamin Franklin and the Junto Club, 
and has 156,000 volumes. Its Ridgway Branch occupies a magnificent classic building, 
erected with $1,500,000, bequeathed in 1869 by Dr. James Rush. The Historical Society 
of Pennsylvania, at Philadelphia, has 30,000 volumes, and many interesting relics of the 
past days. The American Philosophic Society is the oldest scientific institution in the Re- 
public, having been founded by Benjamin Franklin in 1743, and 
renewed in 1769. In its quaint old building at Philadelphia, the 
society has a library of 60,000 volumes. The Franklin Institute, 
founded in 1824, at Philadelphia, owns a valuable library of 40,000 
scientific books; the German Society has 30,000; the Alhenajum, 
25,000; the Apprentices' Library, 30,000; and the Mutual, 44,000. 
The Carnegie Free Library, founded at Allegheny City, by Andrew 
Carnegie, is one of the noblest buildings in America, for a library of 
thousands of volumes, an art-gallery, and a great organ. It is of Maine 
granite, in Romanesque architecture. President Harrison and 
other eminent men took part in the dedication ceremonies, in 1890. 
The Academy of Natural Sciences, founded in 181 2, at Philadel- 
phia, has a handsome Gothic building, with 800,000 specimens in its museums, and a 
library of 40,000 books and pamphlets. The Venetian-Gothic building of the Academy of 
Fine Arts, at Philadelphia, contains one of the most interesting collections of paintings and 
sculptures in America, and an efficient system of art-schools. The Art Club of Phila- 
delphia occupies a spacious Renaissance edifice, with richly decorated galleries. The 
Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art occupies the great granite and iron 
Memorial Building, in Fairmount Park, with its rich collections in art, 
manufactures, archaeology and science, and is designed to be an Ameri- 
can South Kensington Museum, promoting instruction in the arts. Else- 
where in Fairmount Park is the Zoological Garden, the largest 
in America, covering 33 acres, with its -lions and tigers, bears 
and monkeys, seals and other interesting animals. The 
beautiful Horticultural Hall contains admirable collections 
of rare plants and shrubs, of more than 7,000 varieties. Phila- 
delphia also possesses the Wagner Free Institute of Science, 
with its free lectures and museum ; the Franklin Institute, 
for the development of the mechanic arts ; and the School of 
Design for Women. 

Philadelphia has the great buildings of the American Sun- 
day-School Union and the Presbyterian Board of Publication. 




4.W5Jggi''-^5&i^ 



PHILADELPHIA : CATHEDRAL 
OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL. 




PHILADELPHIA CHRIST CHURCH 



THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



735 




The American Sunday - School 
Union was founded in 1824, at 
Philadelphia, where its headquar- 
ters still remain. This wonderful 
evangelical agency is managed 
by 36 laymen of various sects, 
and through its missionaries has 
organized more than 80,000 Sun- 
day schools, with 3,300,000 
pupils, besides helping even a 
greater number of existing 
schools, and originating many of 
the most successful and efficient 
of the methods of the modern 
Sunday-school system. Pittsburgh, and the ohio river. 

Bethlehem, on a plateau over the Lehigh River, was founded in 1741 by Bishop 

Nitschman, and has ever since been the headquar- 
ters of the Moravian Church in America. Its 
ancient stone churches and seminaries, the homes 
of the Single Sisters and Widows, the sacredly 
kept cemeteries, and the historic Sun Inn, still 
preserve noble and heroic memories of the last 
century. The Moravian Seminary for Young Ladies 
dates from 1749, and has 15 instructors and 1 10 
students, with over 7,000 alumnse. Litiz, eight 
miles north of Lancaster, is a beautiful old Mor- 
avian hamlet, in which are still preserved the 
EASTON, AND LAFAYETTE COLLEGE. vcncrablc church, and the limestone houses for 

the brothers and sisters. At Nazareth is Nazareth Hall, built in 1755 as a mansion for 
Count Zinzendorf, and since 1785 famous as a Moravian Boarding-School for Boys, with 
3,000 graduates. Here, also, stands the great stone house built by George Whitefield for 
a school, and now occupied by the Moravian Historical Society and home for retired mis- 
sionaries. At Ephrata, near Litiz, still stand the ancient buildings of the monastery of the 
German Pietists, founded in 1732, and at one time containing 70 monks and nuns, robed in 
white Capuchin garments, and devoting much 
time to printing, illuminating manuscripts, and 
religious exercises. 

The Catholic settlements on the Allegheny 
Mountains, around Loretto, were founded by 
Galitzin, a Russian prince turned missionary- 
priest, who labored here from 1799 to 1840. 
There are six Catholic parishes, with a Francis- 
can monastery and the convent of St. Alovsius, 
at Loretto, and a Benedictine monastery at Car- 
rolltown. The mother-house of the Benedictine 
nuns of America is at St. Mary's, in Beaver PHiLADtLrrii« . ,,„iui. ^r iviumow mcmichael. 
County ; and the American Benedictine monks have their headquarters at Latrobe, on 
Loyalhanna Creek. The oldest American convent of the Sisters of Mercy is at Pittsburgh. 
Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, and other cities have large Catholic colleges. 

Chief Cities. — Philadelphia, the happy and comfortable old Quaker City, rests mainly 
on a level plain between the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers, fringed with busy wharves, 
and laid o^ut on the plan of ancient Babylon, with 2,000 miles of the most regular and rec- 






PHILADELPHIA : HORTICULTURAL HALL. 



y^e KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

tangular of streets, traversed by 300 miles of street-car lines. Up to the year 1825, this 
was the most populous city and the leading commercial emporium of America, with 
multitudes of ships in all distant seas. The completion of the Erie Canal turned a 
large share of this trade to New York. The Delaware sweeps in a noble crescent in 
front of the city, which is 45 miles from Delaware Bay, and 120 miles from the ocean. 
The channel is deep enough for vessels drawing 25 feet of water, and four lines of European 

steamships, and many coastwise lines, sail from 
this port. Philadelphia is one of the foremost 
manufacturing cities of the world, with 12,000 
factories, employing 250,000 operatives, and pro- 
ducing $500,000,000 worth of goods yearly. 
Among these are textiles, iron and steel, carpets, 
sugar and clothing. There are 60 brick-yards, 
making yearly 350,000,000 brick, including the fa- 
mous pressed and moulded varieties. The im- 
mense extent and diversity of Philadelphia's manufactures has drawn hither an army of a 
quarter of a million industrious artisans ; and through the skilful and conservative workings 
of cooperative building associations, these happy toilers have more comfortable and pleasant 
liomes than those of any other city. There are more houses in Philadelphia than in New 

York ; and these are to a large extent neat and 
commodious brick buildings, owned by their oc- 
cupants, and lining the quiet streets for scores of 
leagues. It was the gigantic hero-king of Sweden, 
Gustavus Adolphus, who planned to found on 
the banks of the Delaware a city where "every 
man should have enough to eat, and toleration to 
worship God as he chose." The wonderful 
markets of Philadelphia, unrivalled elsewhere in 
America in their plentiful and varied supplies, 
ensure enough to eat, even for the great population of the city ; and religious toleration is 
manifested by over 700 churches, from the grand Catholic Cathedral of St. Peter and St. 
Paul down to the bare little meetmg-houses of the Friends. This community for many 
decades led all its sisters in literary, artistic and scientific culture, and the great libraries 

and educational institutions are of National in- 
terest, even in these later days of over-ruling 
material prosperity. No American city surpasses 
this in the wealth of its historical associations, 
especially as relating to the founding of the Great 
Republic. Here stand Independence Hall and' 
Carpenters' Hall ; the venerable Christ Church, 
founded in 1 727, where Washington worshipped, 
PHILADELPHIA : THE wissAHicKON DRIVE. and iu whosc grave-yard at Fifth and Arch Streets 

Franklin is buried ; the site (at Seventh and Market Streets) where Jefferson wrote the 
Declaration of Independence ; the site (239 Arch Street) where the first American flag was 
made, 'under Washington's supervision ; and many other shrines of patriotism. Philadel- 
phia has some of the finest edifices in America, the foremost of them being the Public 
Building, a huge fire-proof pile of Massachusetts marble, with 520 rooms, covering over 
four acres, and with a tower which is to be 537^ feet high, and crowned by a colossal 
bronze statue of William Penn, 36 feet high. This structure was begun in 1871, and may 
not be finished until 1895, having cost over f 10,000,000. It is the largest municipal build- 
ing in the world, a snowy marble pile looming over the city with grandiose effect. Near 
this municipal palace is the Masonic Temple, built in 1868-73, at a cost of $1,500,000. 




PHILADELPHIA : MEMORIAL HALL. 




THE STATE OE PENNSYLVANIA. 



737 



Much interest attaches to the beautiful bridges over the Schuylkill, one of which is said to 
be the widest in the world ; the famous Academies of Music, of the Fine Arts, and of Natural 
Sciences ; the homes of the Union League, ^ and the Philadelphia, Manufacturers', 
University, Rittenhouse, and other clubs, and 




'W PtMNVI-fouSC "- 



PHILADELPHIA : SCENES IN FAIRMOUNT PARK. 



the Schuylkill Navy Athletic Club ; and the great buildings of the financial and fiduciary 
institutions, newspapers, and railroad and mercantile corporations. 

The Schuylkill and Wissahickon Valleys and their bordering hills are adorned by Fair- 
mount Park, the largest city park in America, covering 2,791 acres, and including the domains 
of many ancient and historic country-seats, like Robert Morris's Lemon Hill, John Penn's 
The Solitude, Joseph Bonaparte's Lansdowne, Judge Richard Peters's Belmont, and the 
cottage wherein dwelt Tom Moore, the Irish poet. Among these far-viewing hills are 
many noble works of art, the magnificent monument to Gen. Washington, the seated 
statue of Abraham Lincoln, the Humboldt monument, the equestrian statue of Gen. Meade, 
and the memorial statue of Morton McMichael, for 40 years one of Pennsylvania's foremost 
public men, whose career and character are tersely described by the inscription : "An 
honored and beloved citizen of Philadelphia." 

The name of Kingsley has been identified with the 
Continental Hotel, Philadelphia, almost from the day 
it was opened to the public, nearly 30 years ago. It 
was opened by J. E. Stevens & Co., in i860, just 
prior to the breaking out of the Secession War. 
During the war, J. E. Kingsley began his connection 
with the hotel ; and in 1876 his son, E. E. Kingsley, 
was admitted to an interest. The Continental, as a 
hotel, possesses peculiar features of its own. Its in- 
terior arrangements and appointments are elegant, 
and in convenience and comfort the house is as nearly 
perfect as possible. There is an abundance of stairways, and the arrangements for the pre- 
vention ^nd control of fire and for the escape of guests in case of fire are of the best. This 




PHILADELPHIA \ CONTINENTAL HOTEL. 




PHILADELPHIA ; PENNSYLVANIA RAIL- 
ROAD, BROAD-STREET STATION. 



738 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

hotel was one of the first in the country to introduce an elevator, which was at that time 
a curiosity. Almost the whole line of distinguished visitors to Philadelphia for more than 
a quarter of a century have inade their temporary abode at the Continental. Among these 
have been the Prince of Wales and Dom Pedro of Brazil, and all of the Presidents of the 
United States from Lincoln to Harrison have slept beneath its roof. When opened it was 
unsurpassed by any hotel in the land, and with its present complete renovation, remodelling 
and refurnishing, the Continental still compares favorably with the best of the hotels. It is 
located at the very heart of the business part of the city, across from the Post-Office. 

Pittsburgh is nobly placed where the Allegheny and Monongahela Rivers unite to form the 
Ohio, 354 miles west of Philadelphia ; and ranks as one of the most important manufacturing 
cities in the world, in iron and steel, brass and copper, cotton 
and flour, glass and paper. It is the centre of a rich mineral 
district, with vast transportation facilities by river and canal 
and several converging railways. The Pittsburgh district has 
20 blast-furnaces, with a yearly capacity of over 1,000,000 
tons of pig-iron; 64 iron and steel mills, making 1,500,000 
tons yearly ; 56 glass-works, 20 natural-gas companies, and 
60 oil-refineries. The 70 local companies produce vast 
quantities of coal and coke. The largest cork-factory in the 
world is in operation here. The local shipyards build many 
steamboats, for service on the Western rivers. The chief of 
the many civic structures is the Court House, designed by 
H. H. Richardson, and built by Norcross Brothers, at a cost 
of $2, 500,000. This noble granite palace of justice is adorned 
with an impressive tower 420 feet high. Allegheny City lies 
on the picturesque heights opposite Pittsburgh, and has many large and prosperous factories. 
Reading is a compact city, of German origin, on the narrow plain between the Schuylkill 
River and Penn's Mount, with canals and railroad junctions and immense repair-shops, fur- 
naces, rolling mills and brass and steel works, and a profitable trade with the rich farming lands 
of Berks County. Scranton is a sombre and prosperous manufacturing city, founded in 1840, 
on a plateau near the Lackawanna River, with immense steel works and collieries, and large 
Welsh and German populations. Wilkes-Barre, the metropolis of the lovely Valley of 

Wyoming, occupies a pleasant site on the winding 
Susquehanna, in the midst of a productive coal-min- 
ing region. The men who founded the town, in 
1772, named it in honor of two eminent partisans of 
American liberty in the British Parliament. At Har- 
risburg, the Susquehanna, just escaped from the wild 
passes of the Blue Mountains, is a broad and lovely 
stream, flowing around many islands. Amid this 
pleasant scenery stands the capital of Pennsylvania, 
with its interesting public buildings and great rolling- 
mills and other manufactories, whose products are 
valued at $12,000,000 a year. Lancaster owes its 
foundation to German Lutherans, and was for many years the capital of Pennsylvania 
and the largest inland town of the United States. It is a quaint and compact city, built 
mainly of brick, and in a remarkably rich farming country, "the Garden of America," 
near Conestoga Creek. Here the sect of the United Brethren arose ; and near by Robert Ful- 
ton was born, and James Buchanan lived and died. York, with its seven bridges over the 
Codorus, 72 schools, 35 churches, and costly public buildings, is the manufacturing and 
commercial centre of one of the richest agricultural regions in America. Easton is a 
wealthy manufacturing city, nestling among the high hills where the Lehigh and Dela- 




BALTIMORE 



PITTSBURGH : 
& OHIO RAILROAD STATION. 




WS'i^ _ 



PHILADELPHIA: BALTIMORE i OHIO RAILROAD STATION. 



777 A' STAT7: OF PENNSY7VAN7A. 

ware Rivers meet. Johnstown, destroyed in 1S89 
by flood, has risen again, among the western AUe- 
ghenies. Chester, the famous ship-building city on 
the Delaware, and the oldest settlement in Pennsyl- 
vania (founded by the Swedes in 1644), has 30 cot- 
ton and woolen mills, besides steel-works and boiler 
and engine shops. The Delaware-River Iron 
Ship-building and Engine Works were founded at 
Chester by the late John Roach in 1872, and have 
built many steamships for the Oregon, Brazilian 
Mail, Old Dominion and Mallory Lines, besides swift and powerful men-of-war, and the 
huge Pacific-Mail steamships. City of Pekin and City of Tokio. 

AUentown is a comfortable Pennsylvania-Dutch manufacturing city, looking from its 
embowered plateau over the rich farming and mining lands of the Lehigh Valley. There 
are enormous iron and rolling-mills in this vicinity. Altoona lies at the base of the AUe- 
ghenies, at the head of the Tuckahoe Valley, and has the immense shops of the Pennsylvania 
Railroad, and other industries. Erie extends for a league along Presque-Isle Bay, one of 
the best harbors on Lake Erie, and has a large shipping trade, besides valuable manufactures 
and costly public buildings. It occupies the site of a French fort built in 1749, and was the 
headquarters of Perry's victorious naval squadron. Hither come vast fleets laden with 
Michigan iron and Canadian lumber, and carrying westward cargoes of coal. Meadville 
makes iron and woollen goods, on the Venango River. New Castle, in Western Pennsyl- 
vania, has iron, glass and other mills, and rich mines. Norristown, on the Schuylkill, 16 
miles from Philadelphia, is a pleasant educational and manufacturing county-town, near the 
rich limestone country of the Great Valley. Phcenixville, with its iron and pottery works, 
lies on the Schuylkill, 27 miles from Philadelphia. Pottsville is the great shipping-point 
of Schuylkill coal. Williamsport, on the West Branch of the Susquehanna, enjoys a great 
and hemlock lumber. Bristol, an ancient borough on the Delaware, 
pets and iron goods. Carbondale, among the high ridges on the Lack- 
ports enormous quantities of anthracite coal. Bradford and Titus- 
City and Corry have been built up by the petroleum industry. 

Commerce is favored by the central position of the State, 
with Pittsburgh at the eastern head of navigation on the 
western rivers, Erie receiving the shipping of the Great Lakes, 
and Philadelphia as one of the foremost Atlantic ports, with 
important steamship lines to Europe and along the coast. 
The first steamboat on the Western waters of the United 
States was the New Orleans, launched at Pittsburgh early in 
181 1, and afterwards used as a packet between Natchez and 
New Orleans. Since then thousands of boats have been con- 
structed here, including many gunboats used in the Secession 
War. At the other end of the State, in Philadelphia, the great 
ship-yards of Wm. Cramp employ 2,200 men, and among 
their works have been the war-ships Philadelphia, Netvark, 
Vesin'iKS and Yorktoivn. 

Railroad companies in Pennsylvania number 250, with 
f 7 50, 000, 000 paid-in capital stock and !|8io,ooo,ooo of debts. The roads and equipments 
cost upwards of $1,000,000,000. They have 9,715 miles (15,063 miles of track) in Penn- 
sylvania, mainly of steel rails, with 5,800 locomotives and 3,700 passenger-cars, and over 
200,000 freight cars. The passengers carried exceed 92,000,000 a year. These lines also 
transport yearly 42,000,000 tons of through freight and 100,000,000 tons of local freight, 
besides .100,000,000 tons of coal, 25,000,000 tons of iron, and 3,500,000 tons of oil. 




PHILADELPHIA ; 
HAHNEMANN MEDICAL COLLEGE. 



74° 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LEWISBURG : BUCKNELL UNIVERSITY. 



The business is increasing at a prodigious rate. Over 
87,000 men are employed in Pennsylvania alone. 

The Pennsylvania Railroad controls over 6,000 
miles of routes, 2,555 of which are in the Pennsylvania 
Division, whose net earnings are above !|ji2,ooo,ooo 
yearly. This wonderful route, with its daring feats of 
constructive engineering, was built in 1847-54, from 
Philadelphia to Pittsburgh. The passage across the 
Allegheny Mountains affords an impressive experience, 
and unfolds magnificent mountain and valley views. 
This section leads up very heavy grades, insomuch that on the descent trains shut off steam 
and keep on the brakes for eleven miles. The famous Horse- Shoe Bend, near Kittanning 
Point, sweeps around the head of a great ravine, so that the locomotive may be seen from the 
rear cars, going almost in an opposite direction. The railroad from Mauch Chunk to Sum- 
mit Hill (nine miles) began operations in 1827, the cars descending by their own gravity, 
and being drawn back by mules, over wooden rails faced with thin bars of iron. Two years 
later a 16-mile line was built in the Lackawanna region, the cars being drawn up short steep 
planes by stationary engines, and descending the ensuing long planes by gravity. The Phil- 
adelphia & Columbia line was finished in 1834; and the Harrisburg «S: Lancaster in 183S. 
The Broad-Street station of the Pennsylvania line is one of the grandest and costliest in the 
world. Its train-shed was built by the Keystone Bridge Company of Pittsburgh. The long 
bridge across the Susquehanna River was constructed by the Edge Moor Company, of 
Wilmington (Del.). The Baltimore & Ohio Railroad has an extensive system of tracks in 
Pennsylvania, reaching Pittsburgh and Johnstown in the west, and Philadelphia in the east. 

The Philadelphia & Reading Railroad controls 1,583 miles of track, and has an enor- 
mous coal freight, owning, in conjunction with the Reading Coal & Iron Company, 75 col- 
lieries and 160,000 acres of coal-lands. Not far from Susquehanna ("the City of Stairs," 
with enormous railway shops) is the Starucca Viaduct, a noble piece of masonry no feet high, 
on which the Elrie Railway crosses the Starucca Valley. In this same region, the railway run- 
ning north from Carbondale crosses Mount Ararat, one of the AUeghenies, 2,500 feet above 
the sea, which is the highest point reached by any standard line east of the Rocky Mountains. 
Canals are still operated for 778 miles, including 200 miles of slackwater navigation ; 
and 10,000,000 tons of freight (mainly coal) pass over them yearly, resulting in tolls of 
.$2,800,000. They cost the State $50,000,000, but have lost most of their value now, and 
are controlled by the railroads and mining companies. The amount of freight carried by 
the canals has more than doubled during the past five years. There are 1,500 canal-boats, 
500 locks and no basins. The great canal improvements began as far back as 1790, when 
Gov. Mifflin contracted for improving navigation on several streams. The Union Canal 
was begun in 1792; the Conevvago Canal, around the Great Falls of the Susquehanna, in 
1793; the Schuylkill Navigation Canal, between 1815 and 1825; and the North-Branch 
Canal, in 1854. The State in 1828-34 joined Philadelphia to Pittsburgh by a combina- 
tion route, from Philadelphia to Columbia, 82 miles, by railroad ; thence to Hollidaysburg, 
172 miles, by canal; thence to Johnstown, 36 miles, by the Portage Rail- 
road ; and thence by canal down the valley to Pittsburgh, 104 miles. The 
famous Allegheny Portage Railroad, built in 183 1-2, began at Holli- 
daysburg, whence five inclined planes, joined by winding levels, as- 
cended to the crest of the AUeghenies, 2, 500 feet above the sea, and 
1,398 feet above the base. Another series led down 1,172 feet to 
Johnstown, the head of navigation on the waters of the West. The 
canal-boats were built in sections, detached on reaching the base of 
the AUeghenies, and placed on trucks, which were hauled up the 
inclines by ropes attached to stationary engines, and lowered in 




PITTbBUHG 



CITY HALL 



THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



74> 



a similar manner on the other side, the emigrants and freight remaining on board. The 
main line of the State public works, from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, was sold by Gov. Pol- 
lock to the Pennsylvania Railroad, in 1857, for $7,500,000; and the next year the Sunbury 
& Erie Railroad bought also the Delaware Division Canal and the canals above the Juniata, 
for $3i 500.000. The Pennsylvania Canal runs from Columbia, on the lower Susquehanna, 
to Nanticoke, in the Valley of Wyoming, 144 miles ; from Junction to Huntington, up the 
Juniata Valley, 90 miles ; from Northumberland to Lock Haven, up the West Branch, 66 
miles; and from Clark's Ferry to Millersburg, 12 miles. Coal, lime, and lumber form the 
chief freight. Most of the canals from Harrisburg westward were abandoned in 1889, ^^ 
Pennsylvania Railroad having rendered them superfluous. The canal from Columbia to Havre 
de Grace is 45 miles long. The Delaware Division Canal from Easton to Bristol, 60 miles, 
and the I^ehigh Coal & Navigation Company's Canal from Easton to Coalport (47 miles), are 
used chiefly for coal. The Delaware & Hudson Canal, from Plonesdale to Eddyville, 
N. Y. , 108 miles (25 miles in Pennsylvania), cost $7,000,000, and carries 1,300,000 tons of 
freight (mainly coal) yearly. The Monongahela Navigation Company cost ,$1,800,000, and 
affords slackwater navigation from Pittsburgh 86 miles south to New Geneva. These 
works date from 1836-44, and have been of vast benefit to the coal-trade. The Schuylkill 
Canal leads from Philadelphia to Reading and Schuylkill Haven. Surveys are in progress 
for a great ship-canal connecting Lake Erie and the upper Ohio River. 

The Newspapers cover the entire State with their issues, the most important being 
published at Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. The journalism of the former city is distin- 
guished by George W. Childs's Public Ledger, Col. A. K. McClure's Times, the Press, 
Lte»i, Neivs, Telegram, Lnqnirer, and other papers. Here, also, is published one of the 
most ancient newspapers in the world, the famous N^orth American, which was founded in 
1 771, and has had an uninterrupted career of success and beneficence. It is sold for a cent 
a copy, and yet belongs to the Associated Press, and has one of the ablest bands of edit- 
orial writers in America. The present prosperity and high repute of the paper are largely 
due to the efforts of the late Hon. Morton McMichael, for many years its editor, proprietor 
and director. The editors and publishers now are Morton McMichael's Sons. 

The Philadelphia Record, which has by far the largest circulation 
of any paper in Pennsylvania, ranks among the half dozen daily 
papers of the United States having a circulation of over 100,000. It 
dates back, under its present management, to January i, 1877, 
when it was purchased by William M. Singerly from William J. 
Swain, who had begun its publication on May 14, 1870. Its circu- 
lation was very limited under the old management, but it now aver- 
ages over 126,000 a day, and is constantly growing. The Record \s 
a one-cent paper, being one of the pioneers in the miraculous work 
of publishing a complete, newsy, clean and interesting sheet at a 
price within the reach of everybody ; and it is essentially a newspaper 
of the people and for the people. It is a bold advocate of the reform 
of many abuses that bear heavily upon the people, such as the dis- 
criminations of railroad companies, combinations of the coal-produc- 
ing corporations to keep the price of that necessity far above what 
it should be, and the exactions of the tariff laws in the interest of 
the rich against the poor. The Record broke up the bogus medical 
colleges in Philadelphia that made a practice of selling diplomas for 
a trifle. It has for years sold coal to consumers at a reasonable price, compelling dealers to 
give up the extortionate rates they were accustomed to charge. In this way alone it has saved 
millions of dollars yearly to the people. The Record has led among the papers of Philadel- 
phia in all efforts to improve the trade of that city and to build it up as a commercial port. 
With this' end in view, it has always advocated the utmost freedom of competition, and the 




PHILADELPHIA : 
IILADELPHIA RECORD. 



742 



A'lXG'S HANDJU^OK OF THE rXlTKJ) STATES. 




breaking dmvn of all artificial barriers to its development. It occupies a handsome building 
on Chestnut Street, which was planned for the special convenience of the working force of the 
paper, rather than of tenants. The proprietor of The Record, William M. Singerly, is known 
throughout the country as a progressive man of affairs and a strong Democrat, and in poli- 
tics his paper, though not a partisan sheet, reiiects his views. 

Paper-making in America took its rise in Pennsylvania, the first mill having been built 
in 1690, on a tributary of the Wissahickon Creek, and operated by the Rittenhouses, who 

had been engaged in the same 
business in Holland. Another of 
these ancient establishments was 
the famous Ivy Mill, founded in 
Delaware County, by Thomas 
Willcox, in 1727. Paper was made 
here from 1729 to 1872, and the 
GLEN MILLS : THE JAMES M. WILLCOX PAPER CO. Venerable edifice still stands, as 

an object of fine artistic beauty, with the ivy trailing from its walls, and the stream rippling 
merrily by. The industry has taken on a new development of modern ingenuity and per- 
fection, and the old Ivy Mill is succeeded by the two Glen Mills of the James M. Willcox 
Paper Company, at Glen Mills, Delaware County, employing 200 persons, and making a 
large variety of fine papers from linen and cotton rags. Their product includes bond, 
parchment and music paper, and the finer grades of book paper. Great quantities of bank- 
note paper have also been made here, and the Colonial bills were printed on the WiUcox 

paper, which was also used by the United- States 
Government until 1882. The Glen Mills date 
from 1836, and were built by James M. Willcox. 
They are now conducted by William F. Willcox, 
under the name of the James M. Willcox Paper 
t'onipany. 

Since the philosopher and statesman, Franklin, 
long a resident of Philadelphia, was a printer, it is 
a custom to look to this city as a leader in all that 
pertains to the typographic art. Here was estab- 
lished the first type-foundry in America. The firm 
is to-day known throughout the world as the Mac- 
Kellai, Smiths & Jordan Company, although it was established nearly a century ago, in 
1796, by Binney & Ronaldson.- In regular succession from these original proprietors the 
present firm has come down, although it was not formally incorporated until 1885. Two 
of the present proprietors have been connected with the concern for half a century, and 
others for various periods, varying from 35 to 20 years. The two large buildings occupied 
by the company are on Sansom Street, one of brick, and the other of brownstone ; 300 
persons are given employment, and the amount of lead, antimony, tin, copper and brass 
used within the limit of a year is something enormous. The international expositions of 
New- York, Sydney, Philadelphia, Melbourne, Paris and others have all recognized the ex- 
cellence of the product of this company by the gifts of gold medals and other awards of 
merit. Some of the most valuable and ingenious machinery for the manufacture of type 
has been designed and is in use in this foundry. The MacKellar, Smiths & Jordan Com- 
pany is not merely the oldest type-foundry, but it is also conceded by every one to be in- 
comparably the largest and foremost establishment of its kind on the whole continent. It 
has also several extensive agencies in South America, Australia and Europe. 

The Mayor of the great city of Philadelphia, with its million of inhabitants, typifies in 
his own personal success the grand opportunities that are open to every child in our glori- 
ous American Republic, where neither rank nor wealth nor state, but a man's own ability, 




PHILADELPHIA MACKELLAR SMITHS i JORDA^ 



THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



743 




PHILADELPHIA EDWIN « STUART 
LEARY o OLD BOOK STORE 



obtains the highest honors of the land. The boy who began in the humblest position in a 
second-hand book shop, and afterwards became its owner, has, at the age of 37, been 
chosen by over 40,000 majority, the chief magistrate of one of the greatest cities of the 
world. That ambition to be only at the head has built up in Philadelphia the largest old 
book-store in America. It has been for many years celebrated under the name of Leary's, 
although it has now passed into the hands of Edwin S. Stuart, the successor to Leary & Co. 
This unique establishment buys and sells more second-hand books than any other store in 
the country, and at all times carries 300,000 volumes on its shelves and counters. Its 
patrons are found in all parts of the world, and large orders 
come from Europe and Asia, while thousands of American 
scholars find here rare treasures of bibliography, filling five 
stories of the building, and admirably arranged in depart- 
ments, — standard, religious, musical, French, German, legal, 
scientific, Americana, and full sets of magazines. The business 
was founded in 1836 by W. A. Leary, and passed, in 1865, to 
his son, W. A. Leary, Jr. Edwin S. Stuart, who had enteral 1 
the store as a boy, became manager in 1871, and bought oin 
the business in 1875, since which he has greatly extended its 
operations. Mr. Stuart has also taken a prominent part in 
public affairs, and has held several honorable offices prior to 
his election, in 189 1, as Mayor of Philadelphia. 

Finances. — The aggrega'e taxation of Pennsylvanians for all purposes is $38,000,000 
yearly. The State reve'.aes are $7,500,000, most of which comes from taxes on the 
$1,200,000,000 stock and income of local corporations. The funded debt draws 3^, 4 and 
5 per cent, interest. Most of this debt was incurred half a century ago, in the development 
of routes across the AUeghenies. The county and municipal debts exceed $100,000,000. 

It is interesting to know that the first bank chartered in the United States is still in 
honored existence and in active operation in Philadelphia. It is the well-known Bank of 
North America. Notwithstanding the fact that this bank was re-organized under the national 
banking law in 1864, the word "National" does not appear in its title. This is in pur- 
suance of a special arrangement with the Comptroller of the Treasury. The bank has an 
interesting history. It was founded in the year 1 781, its leading spirit being Robert Morris. 
Its early days were coeval with the inception of the Republic, Philadel- 
phia being at that time the seat of the National Government. The bank 
was chartered by the Provincial Congress, December 31, 1781, and opened 
its doors January 7, 1782. Many of the most prominent citizens of Phila- 
delphia of that day were identified with the bank at the outset. It was 
first opened for business in the store of its cashier. Tench Francis, on 
Chestnut Street, above Third Street, and in these quarters it remained for 
65 years. In 1847 the commodious building which the bank now occupies 
was erected upon the same site. During the late war this bank was one of 
the first to offer loans to the Government at a low rate of interest, and one 
of the earliest subscribers for the bonds of the country. During its exist- 
ence for more than a century the Bank of North America has had but eight 
presidents, the present one being John H. Michener. The centennial of the establishment of 
the bank was observed in the publication of a history of its career. It is to-day, as it always 
has been, a quiet and conservative institution, and in its elderly manner has set a good ex- 
ample for all financial and fiduciary institutions. It is one of the largest national banks in 
Pennsylvania, with resources of $7,000,000. 

The First National Bank in Philadelphia is historical, as being the first bank in the United 
States chartered under the National Bank act. The bank commenced business in July, 1863. 
The original capital was $150,000, but this was subsequently increased to $1,000,000. 




PHILADELPHIA BANK 
OF NORTH AMERICA. 



744 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




PHILADELPHIA : 
FIRST NATIONAL BANK. 



A recent statement shows surplus and undivided profits of $750,000, 
with deposits of about $6,000,000, and total resources exceeding 
$10,000,000. The president is George Philler, a well-known 
financier of Philadelphia. The cashier, Morton McMichael, Jr., is 
the honored president of the American Bankers' Association, com- 
posed of nearly all the banks in this country. The bank building is 
a large structure, 60x175 ^^^U with an imposing granite front, on 
Chestnut Street. As with some other great Philadelphia banking 
institutions, it was built and is entirely occupied for the bank's own 
business. From the day of opening, the First National Bank has 
had an uninterruptedly successful career. It has paid in dividends 
over $3,000,000 ; and is one of the soundest of Pennsylvania's 
financial institutions. 

The Pennsylvania Company for Insurances on Lives and Grant- 
ing Annuities is the oldest trust company in the United States. Incorporated as a life- 
insurance company March 10, 1812, it was in 1836, by an act of the Legislature and by vari- 
ous supplements, given the fullest powers as to the execution of trusts, authority being 
given it to act in every kind of fiduciary capacity, whether as trustee, executor, adminis- 
trator, committee in lunacy, or in any other way whatever. It has also been granted the 
rights and powers of a safe-deposit company, and its vaults are a marvel in extent and 
security. Ever since 1836 the chief business of the company has been that of trusts, and 
up to within a recent date it was the only such company, nc' only in Philadelphia, but in 
the United States. Its capital has been gradually increased froni $500,000 to $2,000,000, 
to which has ,J been added a surplus of $2,000,000. It carries on business in its 
uilding, at 517 Chestnut Street, immediately opposite the 
entrance to Independence Hall. The building is an imposing 
one of granite, in the Romanesque style of architecture. It 
covers a lot 81 feet front on Chestnut Street, by 262 feet deep 
to Minor Street. It is five stories high in front, and two stories 
in the rear, and in the centre is a vast hall, lighted from above, 
120 feet long by 80 feet wide, and 52 feet high, in which the 
trust and general business of the company is conducted. The 
whole of the building is used by the company, and by it 
alone. It was built expressly with a view to the needs of the 
business, and in this respect is unique in its character. For 
safety of the securities entrusted to the company's charge, 
and the comfort and convenience of persons having business 
with the company, it has no equal. Some idea of the ex- 
tent of this business may be gained when it is stated that the 
rentals for real estate in the company's charge, not includ- 
ing ground-rents, exceed $1,000,000 a year, while the yearly receipts from other securities, 
held by the company in trust, many times exceed that amount. 

At the corner of Broad and Chestnut Streets stands the magnificent stone ofhce-building 
of the Girard Life-Insurance, Annuity and Trust Company. Its Roman-arched portals, its 
beautiful tower and its general appearance of combined massiveness and beauty at once 
command the attention of the visitor, and the building is the pride of the city resident. The 
nine stories are fire-proof throughout, and admirably adapted for the prosecution of the 
business of the company, and also of the large and varied business interests occupying the 
120 offices on its upper floors. The site of the building, only 100 feet square, was bought 
for $567,000, the highest price ever paid for land in Philadelphia. With one exception, the 
Girard is the oldest trust company in Philadelphia. It was established in 1836, and has been 
in successful operation ever since. Its capital is now $1,000,000, fully paid in. It has in 




PHILADELPHIA . 

PENNSYLVANIA COMPANY FOR INSURANCES 

ON LIVES AND GRANTING ANNUITIES. 




PHILADELPHIA : GIRARD LIFE-INSUR- 
ANCE, ANNUITY AND TRUST CO. 



THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA 

addition thereto a surplus fund of $2,000,000. The Banking De- 
partment receives deposits of individuals and corporations, and 
allows interest at 2 per cent, on daily balances. No commer- 
cial paper is discounted, but call loans are Ihade on approved 
collaterals, and collections are promptly made in all parts of the 
country. In the Trust Department many large estates are man- 
aged ; and the Real- Estate Department is especially equipped for 
the purchase and sale of Philadelphia real-estate. The Safe- 
Deposit Department is provided with wonderfully-constructed 
vaults, both fire and burglar-proof, around which constant in- 
spection is maintained night and day, and absolute security 
obtained. The life-insurance business was abandoned many 
years ago; and the attention of the company is devoted entirely 
to a trust and banking business and allied interests. The 
Girard Company is managed by gentlemen of high standing in 
Philadelphia, and the company is justly regarded as one of the 
most powerful and substantial institutions of the city and 
State. The President is Effingham B. Morris ; and the Vice-President is Henry Tatnall. 
The preeminent fiduciary and financial institution of Pennsyl- 
vania is the Fidelity Insurance, Trust and Safe-Deposit Com- 
pany of Philadelphia. It occupies its own beautiful marble 
double building on Chestnut Street, which, notwithstanding 
its heavily-barred windows, is a striking ornament to the city. 
The building is supplied with huge vaults, wonderful in their 
construction, and filled with a store of silver-plate, jewels, bonds, 
deeds and certificates on stock sufficient for more than one king's 
ransom. No estimate can be made of the value of property in 
these vaults. Their safety is secured by ingenious mechanical 
devices, and ever-watching and armed officers, who are compelled 
to go through such series of reports that they can never be absent 
from their posts. But aside from the safe-deposit vaults, for the 
storage of valuables, the company does a general money deposit 
and trust business, the trust department being authorized by law 
to execute trusts of all descriptions. It also furnishes letters of 
credit, available in all parts of Europe. The capital of $2,000,000 and surplus of $2,000,000 
additional give a wonderful security to all of its operations. The gross 
assets are over $16,000,000, wholly apart from the trust department, 
which by law is kept absolutely distinct from all others. The success of 
the Fidelity has made it one of the financial institutions in which all 
Pennsylvanians take great pride. 

Insurance is a flourishing business in Pennsylvania, which has num- 
erous strong companies of her own, and also local offices of the foremost 
outside corporations. One of the latter, the Mutual Life-Insurance Co., 
of New York, owns and occupies a magnificent granite building in Phil- 
adelphia. 

Life-insurance is not merely of financial but of paramount interest. 
Pennsylvania has numerous fire, marine and life-insurance companies, 
but standing unapproached by any of these is the Penn Mutual Life- 
insurance Co., one of the truest and soundest of the life-insurance 
organizations of the world. The company was organized in 1847, '^"'^ 
during these 44 years, in its own conservative way, has made wonder- 
ful advances, such advances as could be achieved only with the un- tual*lifeTnsurancie co. 




PHILADELPHIA; FIDELITY INSURANCE 
TRUST AND SAFE-DEPOSIT CO. 




746 KING'S HANDBOOK^ OF THE UNITED STATES. 

doubted confidence of the people. It has net assets of more than .fi6, 500,000 ; and has 
paid death claims of $12,000,000, and matured endowments of ,$1,500,000. In 1891 it has 
insurance outstanding of $79,000,000, an increase of more than $12,000,000 in the preced- 
ing year. The Penn Mutual is absolutely and purely a mutual company, and is conducted 
with a view to secure for the widows and families of its policy-holders the greatest possible 
security at the smallest possible cost. In 1891 it moved into its own magnificent building, 
one of the finest architectural specimens of office-buildings in the United States, and along 
with its two adjacent edifices, the Philadelphia Record, and the United-States Post-Ofiice, 
forming one of the most noted architectural sights in the country. 

Manufactures have nearly quadrupled since i860, and in 1880 employed 31,332 estab- 
lishments, with 387,072 operatives, receiving $134,055,904 yearly, and from $465,020,563 
worth of material turning out yearly a product valued at $744,813,445 (or one seventh of 
the entire American output). In the six years, 188 1-6 inclusive, there were 2,442 strikes in 
.Pennsylvania, resulting in losses amounting to $18,000,000. Three fourths of the mechanics 
and miners are Americans. The capital invested is $474,510,993. Half of the glass-works 
of the United States are at Pittsburgh, where 60 factories employ 4,000 men and produce 
yearly $5,000,000 worth of flint, lime, window and green glass. Of the $80,000,000 worth 
of carpets and upholstery goods made in the United States, a large proportion comes from 
Philadelphia, which has the largest rug-mills in the world. In a single ward of the city 
more carpets are made than in all Great Britain. Leather is prepared by 333 tanneries, to the 
value of $24,000,000. The lumber business centres largely at Williamsport. A large plant 
of the American Wheel Company is operated at West Chester. The Friedensville Zinc 
Mines, near AUentown, have the largest stationary engine in the world, called "The Presi- 
dent," and with its 16 boilers making 5,000 horse-power. It has the largest nut in the 
world, weighing 1,600 tons, and taking to tighten it 20 men, and a wrench 20 feet long. 
The immense iron-furnaces and rolling-mills of the Lehigh Valley are at AUentown, Cata- 
sauqua, Hokendauqua and elsewhere. Chester County has profitable iron-works at various 
points. The Phcenix Iron Company (of Phoenixville) made the dome of the U. -S. Capitol. 
It employs 1,500 men. The Baldwin Locomotive Works, at Philadelphia, are the largest 
in the world, and employ more than 3,000 men. They have made more than 10,000 locomo- 
tives. The Westinghouse Air-Brake Works and Electric Works are near Pittsburgh. 

The Spreckels' Sugar Refinery in Philadel- 
phia, one of the largest in this country, was 
built under contract, at a cost exceeding 
$5,000,000 ; and its construction has been con- 
sidered one of the most notable mechanical and 
building achievements of an industrial char- 
acter. Over 18,000,000 bricks and over 17,000 
tons of iron were used. The whole structure 
is on made land, and is supported by about 
PHILADELPHIA : SPRECKELS' SUGAR REFINERY. io,ooo 40-foot pllcs. The walls are 34 inches 

thick on the lower floor. The entire construction of these lofty and substantial brick build- 
ings was contracted for and superintended by Allen B. Rorke, who by the successful car- 
rying out of this great enterprise won a national reputation as an eminent contractor and 
builder. He had previously earned a foremost position in his line in Philadelphia, where 
he had been the builder of and contractor for many structures of a notable character, includ- 
ing all of the later buildings of Girard College, the Hood, Bonbright & Co.'s Building, the 
passenger railway depot on Second and Third Streets, the cold-storage warehouse on Dela- 
ware Avenue, and many others. Mr. Rorke is not only a successful builder and contractor, 
but he has taken an active part in public life, for many years being the chairman of the 
Republican city committee. Although he has been in business only since 1878, the character 
of his transactions places him as the peer of any building contractor in Philadelphia. 




THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



747 



The enormous development of American railways and immigration are partly attributa- 
ble to the invention of steel rails, in themselves cheap and durable, and allowing much 
greater speed and weight of trains than iron rails. Wm. Kelley made pneumatic steel at the 
Cambria Iron Works before Sir Henry Bessemer discovered his process ; and at the same 
place, Fritz invented the steel blooming-mill, which is now in use all over the iron world. 
The Cambria Iron Company, chartered in 1852, finished its first furnace at Johnstown, on 
the Conemaugh River, in 1855; ^"<i struggled through failures and fires until the tariff of 
1 86 1 enabled it to compete with England, and its business then developed wonderfully. 
The huge Bessemer plant was started in 1871, and has made 1,000 tons of steel ingots in 
a single day, including all grades from soft wire stock to spring stock. The Gauticr Steel 




JOHNSTOWN : THE CAMBRIA IRON WORKb. 

Department makes barb wire, plough-shares, merchant steel and shafting, to the extent of 
50,000 tons a year. In the Cambria Works 8,000 men are employed ; and they have a fine 
library, a hospital, clubs and other benefits. Natural gas was introduced in 1886, coming 
in a pipe, 40 miles long, from the Westmoreland fields. The company's works extend along 
the river at Johnstown for two miles, and they have six blast-furnaces at Johnstown, and 
two at Hollidaysburg. They own 35 miles of railway tracks, with 24 locomotives and 
1,500 cars ; about 35,000 acres of land, with mines producing 800,000 tons of coal a year ; 
600 bee-hive coke-ovens in the Connellsville region ; and large mines in Michigan, whence 
comes the ore for the Bessemer steel. The chief products are heavy and light steel rails, 
street and slot rails, blooms, billets, axles, channels, forgings, merchant and cold-rolled steel, 
link barbed wire, and other articles, using yearly 400,000 tons of iron ore, 120,000 tons of 
limestone, and 775,000 tons of coal. The yearly capacity is 300,000 tons of steel ingots, 
350,000 tons of pig-metal, 200,000 tons of steel rails and 55,000 tons of other products, 
which are used in all parts of the country, in countless ways. 

The Bethlehem Iron Company's Works, founded in 1857, occupy a domain a mile and 
a quarter long and a quarter of a mile wide, with 20 acres under cover, and 3, 500 operatives. 
They are situated at South Bethlehem, on the Lehigh River, 87 miles from New York 
and 55 from Philadelphia, with several railroads connecting them with the coal and iron 
regions, and distributing their finished products. The plant has cost more than $10,000,000. 
The yearly output reaches 450,000 tons of steel rails, blooms, billets and other work. In 
1887 the company began the erection of an ordnance and armor-plate department, long 




-J;fui^.. ^^ \ 







SOUTH BETHLEHEM ; THE BETHLEHEM IRON COMPA.NY'S WORKS. 



748 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

needed to give the United States the most powerful guns, shafting and armor. This is not 
only the foremost establishment of the kind in the United States, but one of the most ex- 
tensive and complete plants in the vi'orld for the production of gun-steel, armor-plate, 
shafting and other war material. The plant has been so far developed as to comprise a 
casting capacity of loo tons, a fluid-compression plant, a steam-hammer of 125 tons falling 
weight, and two of the most powerful hydraulic presses ever constructed. The tempering 
plant has already treated forgings for 1 2-inch guns, and the machine-shops contain tools of 
a capacity to machine forgings of any character that have yet been demanded for ship or 
fort protection. The quality of its productions is unexcelled. The company has already 
supplied or has under contraction the shafting for the cruisers San Francisco, Philadelphia, 
N'eivark, Cincinnati, Raleigh, New York, No. 6, No. 11 and No. 12 ; the armed cruiser 
Maine; the coast-defense vessel Monterey; the battleships Oregon, Indiana 2.nd Massa- 
chusetts ; the practice- vessel for Naval Academy ; armor for the /"wWfa;/, Texas, Maiiie, Mon- 
terey, Cincinnati, Raleigh, Amphitrite, Monadnock, and Terror; and 70 complete sets of 
heavy gun-forgings, including those of 12-inch caliber. The company has contracted to 
supply 200 sets of gun-forgings, including calibers of 13-inch. This company, with a capac- 
ity for the manufacture of pig-iron, steel rails and merchant steel equal to the largest 
establishment of the kind in America, and having a plant for the manufacture of armor- 
plate, steel gun-forgings, and forgings of various kinds, of the largest size, the production 
of which has never been attained in this country before, may truly be considered a type of 
the highest degree of development reached in this line of business. It has not only laid the 
corner-stone, but is faithfully and rapidly raising the structure so vital to the defense of the 
wealth and population of this vast country, and the protection of its sea-ports and commerce. 

It was less than a gener- 
ation ago that the new pro- 
cess of making steel, known 
as the Bessemer process, was 
invented. Previous to that 
invention, so costly was the 
process of making steel, that 
a steel rail was a thing un- 
heard of and unthought of 
by railroad managers. But 

BESSEMER ; THE EDGAR THOMSON STEEL WORKS AND BLAST-FURNACES. with the cheapening of the 

manufacture of steel came this new and grand idea which has revolutionized railroad- 
building. At first our American railroads were obliged to import all their steel rails from 
Europe, but a protective tariff led to the establishment of the industry in our country. The 
largest manufactory of steel rails in the United States is the Edgar Thomson Steel Works 
and Blast-Furnaces, at Bessemer, 1 1 miles east of Pittsburgh. The works are owned and 
operated by the association, Carnegie Brothers & Co., Limited, with offices at Pittsburgh. 
The Pennsylvania, Baltimore & Ohio and Pittsburgh & Lake-Erie Railroads connect with 
these great works, and there is also ample wharfage on the Monongahela River, thus secur- 
ing all the advantages for both rail and river transportation. The works occupy an area of 
160 acres, 15 of which are covered with buildings. Something of their enormous produc- 
tive power may be imagined, when it is known that the output each day of finished rails, 
weighing 65 pounds to the yard, is sufficient to lay twelve miles of single track. When the 
nine blast-furnaces are all-in operation, the daily production of metals is over 2,000 tons ; 
a recent average for one month showing 2,055 ^'^^'^ daily. The plant is designed and 
arranged specially for the manufacture of Bessemer steel, for conversion into rails, the 
molten iron being converted directly into steel, instead of cast into pigs and re-melted in 
cupolas. The number of employees engaged constantly is 3,500, representing a population 
of fully lo,ooo people. The association, Carnegie Brothers & Co., Limited, is the 




THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



749 




MUNHALL STATION : THE HOMESTEAD STEEL WORKS. 



proprietor not only of the 
Edgar Thomson works, but 
also of the Duquesne Steel 
Works (formerly the Alle- 
gheny Bessemer Steel Com- 
pany), the Youghiogheny 
Coke Works, the Larimer 
Coke Works and the Scotia 
Ore Mines. The Carnegie 
Homestead Steel Works 
have some of the largest rolls 
in the world for making 
armor - plate, and powerful 
3,300-ton hydraulic shears for cutting steel plates. They are at Munhall, and cover 80 acres, 
employing 2,200 men, making nearly 400,000 tons of steel a year. Carnegie, Phipps & Co. 
are the proprietors. In 1891 they contracted with the United-States Government to make 
for its new battle-ships and cruisers 6,000 tons of nickel-steel armor, valued at $3,600,000. 
The Pennsylvania Steel Company was the first corporation organized in America for 
making steel by the pneumatic process. The first blow was made in the Steelton works. 
May 5, 1867, the ingots being rolled by the Cambria Iron Company, and the rails de- 
livered to the Pennsylvania Railroad Company. One or two iron-works had previously ex- 
perimented with the new process and produced some metal, but these were the first steel 
rails ever manufactured in this country on an order in the regular course of business. In 
1868 the company started a rail-mill, and in 1869 a 15-ton hammer. The works at Steelton 
have been increased from year to year by the erection of blast-furnaces, Bessemer and open- 
hearth plants, blooming, merchant and billet mills, forges and repair-shops, until now they 
cover 180 acres and employ 4,200 men, with a yearly capacity of 360,000 tons of steel 
ingots, which are rolled into heavy, light and street rails, open-hearth and Bessemer slabs, 
blooms, billets, forgings and merchant steel. The works also have a department for bridge- 
building and general construction, and one for making frogs, switches and signals. In 1883 
the company, in partnership with the Bethlehem Iron Company, bought extensive ore lands 
in southeastern Cuba. It is now still further enlarging its field of work by a new and ex- 
tensive plant at Sparrow's Point, Maryland. A ship-yard was put in operation in 1890. 




STEELTON : THE PENNSYLVANIA STEEL COMPANY. 



Pittsburgh makes almost everything in iron, from a tack or a watch-spring to a 20-ton 
cannon or a steamboat. It has the largest table-ware factory in the world, and the fore- 
most Bessemer-steel plant in America. Rolling-mills and puddling-furnaces were estab- 
lished in 1819 ; and ten years later the city had nine rolling-mills and nine nail-factories. 
Foundries started here as early as 1806. Now, the iron and steel industries are of tre- 
mendous importance, value and diversity, and furnish metal supplies to a great part of the 
continent, in thousands of articles. 



75° 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




Pittsburgh: keystone bridge comp/ ny 



One of the most famous corporations 
of engineers and contractors in the world 
is the Keystone Bridge Company, of 
Pittsburgh, which manufactures steel, 
iron and combination bridges, viaducts, 
buildings and roofs, wrought-iron turn- 
tables, steel and iron eye-bars, buckled 
plates and other iron and steel articles. 
This active and successful concern was 
founded in 1863, and has a paid-in capi- 
tal of $700,000. The branch-houses are 
at New York and Chicago. The Keystone Bridge Company has built some of the most 
important structures in its line in all America, including the wonderful Eads Bridge, 
at St. Louis ; the Cinci-nnati Southern Railway Bridge, across the Ohio River, at Cincin- 
nati ; the beautiful and graceful bridges across the Missouri, at Plattsmouth, Blair and 
Kansas City ; the Madison-Avenue Bridge, over the Harlem River, at New-York City ; the 
bridge across the Ohio River at Henderson ; the Arthur-Kill Bridge ; bridges across the 
Mississippi at Minneapolis and St. Paul ; the Susquehanna--River Bridge, at Havre dc Grace ; 
the Ohio Connecting Bridge, near Pittsburgh, whose channel-span, 525 feet long, was erected 
on pontoons, and floated into position, and many great train-sheds and other structures. 

Pittsburgh and the region around is, as all the 
world knows, noted for its immense and numerous 
furnaces and iron-working establishments. Indeed, 
above the city constantly hovers a cloud of dense 
smoke, which often obscures the rays of the sun. 
Many of these great establishments are of the most 
wonderful interest, covering, as they do, many acres 
of land and employing small armies of workmen. 
One of the most important of them is the Oliver 
Iron & Steel Co., whose plants at Pittsburgh and 
Allegheny City cover 35 acres and employ 3, 500 workmen. The annual pay-roll approaches 
$2,000,000. The product of these works comprises structural iron and steel for buildings 
and bridges, rolled and riveted beams and channels, bolts of all kinds, and their great 
specialty of wagon hardware. Another specialty of manufacture is soft steel, to displace 
the better grades of iron. In this the company has been very successful, producing an 
article in steel that is like the best Norway iron, weldini: readily and standiiii; the same 
physical tests as the higher and better grades of Swed- _ 

ish and Norway iron. This grade of steel is used en- 
tirely in the manufacture of carriage and other bolts, .' 

and railway-car coupling-links, and for similar pur- ■ ,: 

poses; and so great are the company's facilities for ^ ^ ^' 

this production that the articles are sold at the same - - - ^:&g^:^ai^ia ^^^|J ^,vj=^I^^-' .'^^ 
price at which those made from ordinary iron are sold. Pittsburgh : oliver iron & steel co. 

Much of the fuel used is natural gas, brought from 
the Belle-Vernon district, through the Oliver Iron & 
Steel Company's own pipe-line. 

It was in 1840 and in 1841 that the energetic, far- 
seeing men of Pennsylvania began to cast looks of 
ijitelligence toward the copper regions of Lake Su- 
perior. It became known that in far-off Michigan were 
large deposits of copper, but the idea of mining it in 
PITTSBURGH ; OLIVER IRON i STEEL CO. what was then a wilderness seemed to many to be 




PITTSBURGH : OLIVER IRON i STEEL CO. 




THE STATE OF PENNSYLVAXIA. 



75" 



visionary. At length, however, a party of Pitts- _ -_^as^,— ^sMr a^ . 

burgh men resolved to embark in the enterprise, - .-> 

and in 1845 the Pittsburgh & Boston Mining >^-: 

Co. was formed. Its leading spirits were Dr. ^jfr'i .'i- r';;['(i ""^ "£, ^" 

C. G. Hussey and Charles Avery, of the Pitts- S vf 3 ~ ' - - 

burgh firm of C. G. Hussey & Co. This ven- Hjs::i ." > '1^ Tmj^ 

ture proved profitable, and then it was decided " "^"^ ''' -" "^, ::i*^ 

by these gentlemen to start a copper rolling- Pittsburgh : 0. g. hussey & co. 

mill in Pittsburgh, which should work the product of the Michigan mines. The smelting 
works of the Pittsburgh & Boston Mining Co. were already established here. In 1849 t'^*^ 
mill was built and started up, and has been in successful operation since. Dr. H-ussey con- 
tinues the head of the firm, having survived his early partners, and associated with him some 
years ago Nicholas Veeder and Edward T. Dravo, for a long time identified with the busi- 
ness. To-day the concern is one of the largest in its line in the country. Its plant covers 
four acres on the banks of the Monongahela River. Employment is given to 90 persons. 
The product of the mill is rolled copper, of all sizes and shapes, copper vessels, copper 
bottoms, bars, sheets and other similar goods. The company has received numerous 
awards from expositions ; and to-day is regarded as one of the leading hou'.es of the country 
in planished copper and rolled copper of all forms and sizes. Besides copper in its various 
forms, C. G. Hussey & Co. are extensive makers of brass kettles. 

It is not alone in heavy products of iron that Pennsylvania has gained a celebrity. As 
long ago as 1840 a demand arose for good American-made saws. There was no reason why 
they might not be produced in this country, especially in view of the great advances which 
were constantly being made in methods of manufacturing steel. In 1840 Henry Disston 
determined to see what could be done in this line of manufacture. Accordingly, he founded 
a plant for the production of saws, at Philadelphia, which was removed in 1884 to Tacony, 
a flourishing suburb of Philadelphia, on the Delaware River. Like all similar enterprises 
which have American pluck and energy behind them, it was a success beyond the expecta- 
tions of the founder. To-day the saw-works of Henry Disston & Sons cover 38 acres and 
employ 1,900 persons. Saws of every kind and description are produced, from the most 
delicate key-hole saw to the huge circular saw, which will split an immense log from the 
Maine forest into boards almost in the twinkling of an eye. The firm produces large 
quantities of steel, and also tools for keeping saws in order, trowels, carpenters' squares, 
bevels, levels, files and other tools in every-day use. The product of the Disston works has 
a reputation r.ft-extensive with the boundaries of America. The Disston saws have been 
aw aided gold medals, not only at the Centennial Exposition of 1876, but at the Paris Ex- 
-^ ^ " ^ position of 187S, the Ger- 

man Exposition of 1881, 
and the Australian Exposi- 
tion of 1888. Among the 
inventions and special ap- 
pliances controlled by the 
company are machinery and 
implements for grinding, 
hardening and tempering 
saws. The Disstons are 
everywhere reco'gnized as 
the preeminent saw manu- 
facturers of this country. 

All machines for turning, 

planingor drilling, in which 

HENRY DISSTON 4 SONS thc cuttlug cdge Is guided 




752 



ICING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




PHILADELPHIA : WILLIAM SELLERS & 



by mechanical means are called "machine tools." The term is broad, and includes all 
machines that work or shape metal, steam hammers, forging machines and the like. The 
manufacture of such tools has now become a distinct branch of industry. The Philadelphia 
— -.^ house of Bancroft & Sellers, now William Sel- 

lers & Co., Incorporated, was the pioneer in 
this industry in America. The firm began 
operations in 1848. Their shops were small 
and inconvenient, and were located in that por- 
tion of the city known as Kensington. Their 
reputation increased rapidly. In 1853 they re- 
moved to new buildings erected on the square 
bounded by i6th and 17th Streets, Pennsyl- 
vania Avenue and Hamilton Street. The new 
location was then in the outskirts of the city, 
but the city has since grown up around it and 
for miles beyond. The neighborhood is his- 
toric with memories of Hamilton, of Abigail Adams, and of others whose names occur in 
the early history of our country. Large additions to their shops have been made since that 
time to meet their constantly increasing business. The Sellers establishment has now a 
world-wide reputation for the manufacture of machine tools, including power cranes of the 
greatest capacity, and railway turntables and other similar needs in the equipment of rail- 
roads. The highest encomiums of experts in this country and in Europe have been given to 
the product of the Sellers works. In reality, this concern has placed America far in advance 
of all other nations in the production of machine tools, in recognition of which William 
Sellers was honored at Paris with the Cross of the Legion of Honor. Many wonderful in- 
ventions have been made at these works, the fame 
of which extends to all civilized countries. -Wil- 
liam Sellers & Co., Incorporated, employ 650 men, 
and have an annual pay-roll of |)400,ooo. 

Among the great ironmasters of the last gen- 
eration, the founders of the wonderful development 
of Pennsylvania as a metal-manufacturing State of 
the first magnitude, no name stood brighter than 
that of Garrison, which was borne by five brothers, 
each of whom made his mark in the iron industry 
of America. From this notable family came the establishment of the A. Garrison Foundry, 
the first to be started in Pittsburgh, and now for nearly a century in continuous and profit- 
able operation. At one time the main business was stoves ; now its chief product is the 
ponderous rolls used in rolling-mills, and whose use has revolutionized the art of metal- 
working. Some of the largest rolls ever made have been prepared at this foundry, together 
with a vast number which have done valuable service in rail-mills and other iron-works, and 
wherever tremendous or accurate iron rolls are utilized, the product of this foundry being 
regarded throughout this country as the highest standard. The president of the A. Garrison 

^^_ Foundry Co. is John A. Rickettson, a graduate 

--:!^K^i of Harvard University, and one of Pittsburgh's 
well-known citizens. 

One of the most notable manufacturing plants 
of Philadelphia is that of George V. Cresson, 
whose shafting works at the corner of 1 8th Street 
and Allegheny Avenue are by far the finest in 
their line in the whole country. The business 
GEORGE V. CRESSON s WORKS. was cstablishcd in 1859 by the present proprietor. 




PITTSBURGH , 



GARRISON FOUNDRY CO 




THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



753 



^fc^^ feS5**^^ 




It comprises machine-shops, foundry and pattern and blacksmith shops, and employs about 
250 men. The product of these admirably constructed works comprises shafting, couplings, 
hangers, pulleys, and power transmitting machinery of every description. Many of the latest 
and most important improvements in couplings, pulleys and other similar machinery have 
originated in these wprks, which comprise almost a little village by themselves. A specialty 
of the house is that of designiug and fitting out 
electric-light plants, and building complete power 
plants from original designs. This house is also 
known as the Philadelphia Shafting Works, the 
city being recognized as headquarters in this indus- 
try, to the fame of which the good work of George 
V. Cresson has added a considerable share. 

There are many even in these later days who 
insist that a good cup of coffee cannot be made in 
the house which has no coffee-mill. So wide- 
spread is this belief that the Enterprise Manufac- 
turing Company, of Philadelphia, foresaw a great 
industry in making a specialty of its manufacture, philadelpm.a . Et-nERHwiac iw^ivui-actukii.u co. 
and their grinding mills, the "Enterprise," have become indispensable utensils in hundreds 
of thousands of homes. The "Enterprise" mills may also be used for spices, and are 
equally well adapted to the uses of farmers, grocers and others. But of all useful house- 
hold articles designed to lessen the cares of the housewife and the much-abused and abusing 
domestic, the Enterprise meat-chopper deserves special mention. It cuts raw or cooked 
meat equally well, and may be easily adapted to chop coarse or fine. For rapidity, uniform- 
ity and nicety of chopping it is unexcelled. Mrs. Potts' cold handle sad irons, familiar to 
the great majority of housekeepers, are made by the same company. The factories rank 
among the best ift the country, and the numerous processes of production of these and other 
specialties are gone through, by means of ingenious devices and simple arrangements that 
effect low cost, as well as insuring good goods. The Enterprise Manufacturing Company 
has been exceptionally successful, but the success has resulted from merit. 

There are many men of the present day who well remember when all bolts, nuts, wash- 
ers and kindred articles were made wholly by hand. When such articles made by machinery 
were first offered they met with little favor. They came gradually into use, however, but 
when cold-pressed nuts were offered there arose a clamor against them which was only 
allayed by a scientific test, which was decided in favor of the superiority of the cold-punched 
^^ — — =-^— ■== nut. The pioneers in these advances in iron manu- 
facture were Hoopes & Townsend, of Philadelphia. 
Their works, probably the largest of the kind in the 
United States, are situated just off Broad Street, on 
Buttonwood Street, west of Thirteenth Street, and 
include nearly two entire blocks. Besides the Phila- 
delphia plant, they operate a large plant at Wilming- 
-^ ton (Del.) In the various shops about 750 hands 
find employment. A large amount of labor-saving ma- 
chinery, of the most approved sort, is used, and thus a 
laige product is turned out at a comparatively small cost. 
Nuts of every sort, bolts, wood screws and rivets are made 
here, and wherever these products have been exhibited 
they have carried off the highest honors. Hoopes & Town- 
send is another of the old and solid manufacturing con- 
cerns of Pennsylvania, having been founded in 1849, t>y 
the pres'ent senior partner of the firm, who is still active in its management. 







PHILADELPHIA : 



754 



A'lXG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




^ILADELPHIA : 
G. TAYLOR CO. 



The foremost American house in the importing and sale of Ijriglit tin and roofing tin is the 
N. & G. Taylor Co., founded in the old Kensington district of Philadelphia in l8lo. The 
early partners came from Connecticut, their forefathers having 

fought in the Revolutionary War. Wm. Taylor, one of the ^, v- 

original founders, figured prominently in the War of i8i2. ; \ 

The grandsons are the present members of the firm, which 
has passed through three generations of the same family. 
The business has grown enormously, until now the products 
are known everywhere, and its "Old Style" brand of roofing 
tin and other goods have received many medals and awards of 
merit, and the continual favor of patrons. The firm has 
always been fully alive to the requirements of its position, 
and has taken out patents for many improvements in tinners' 
tools and machines. They have also received American and 
English patents for improvements in the manufacture of tin- 
plates, and for certain kinds and sizes. The firm was promi- 
nent in 1 87 1 in fostering the American Steamship Line, the only 
transatlantic line sailing under the American flag, and whose four original steamships are 
still running. They were among the prime movers of the great Centennial Exposition, and 
have always been closely allied to everything tending to the advancement of their city's 
greatness. N. & G. Taylor Co.'s special brand of roofing tin, the "Old Style," covers old 
Independence Hall, the birth-place of Liberty, and there is not a city in the Union that 
has not secured benefits in its use. 

Pennsylvania, so famous for its iron and for its coal, finds one of its chief claims to dis- 
tinction as an industrial State, in its numerous and varied iron-working establishments. 

Among these the plant of the Link-Belt Engi- 
neering Company is of notable distinction. This 
company takes its name from the unique and 
valuable " Ewart " detachable link-belt, a sub- 
stitute in malleable iron for the various forms of 
flat belting in common use. Link - belting, 
though made of iron, is in many cases even 
lighter than the leather or rubber belting for 
which it is an equivalent in transmitting power, 
and has come to be recognized as a staple article, being extensively employed in the equip- 
ment of coal-mines, flour-mills, grain-elevators, paper-mills, sugar-refineries and other 
manufactories, both as a transmitter of power and for elevating and conveying. The Link- 
belt Company designs and furnishes machinery for the handling of any materials, either in 
bulk or in package, and for the transmission of power by means of link-belting, and all 
other approved machinery. Among its closely-allied concerns are the Link-Belt Machinery 
Company, of Chicago, and the Dodge Coal Storage Company, of Philadelphia, whose 
system and apparatus for the handling and storing of coal, have obtained high endorse- 
ments. The principal works of the company, and its main office, are at Nicetown, in the 
suburbs of Philadelphia. The Dodge system is illustrated in the New-York chapter. The im- 
mense plant in operation at Rondout well illustrates the most efficient and economical device 
ever invented for handling vast quantities of coal from vessels or cars, and properly storing it. 

Every traveller has marvelled at the intricate 
interlocking systems of signals which are so 
often seen at important railway junctions. 
Many of the most ingenious and efficient of 
these are the work of the Wharton Railroad 
Switch Company, of Philadelphia, which makes jenkintown •. wharton railroad switch company. 




PHILADELPHIA (NICETOWNI : 
LINK-BELT ENGINEERING COMPANY 




THE STATE OE PEXA'SVLVAXLi. 



755 




BRILL COMPANY 



a specially of mechanical and electric interlocking and block signal systems. The works of 
this company are at Jenkintown, and the principal office is in Philadelphia. In addition to 
the signal systems, this company is a large manufacturer of heavy tools for the use of 
machinists and manufacturers. Not only this, but it is the manufacturer of the well-known 
Wootten locomotive, an extremely powerful contrivance, that has proven of very exceptional 
value in all up-grade or heavy locomotive work. The Wharton Company also make every 
variety of track supplies, and are well-known to the railway corporations all over the 

country, from the excellence of 
their goods, and the singular in- 
c;enuity of the inventions which 
they control. 

About twelve acres of land at 
62d Street and Woodland Ave- 
nue, and at the junction of the 
P., W. & B. and the B. & O. lines 
of railway, in Philadelphia, are 
covered by the recently construct- 
ed car-works of the J. G. Brill 
Company. This corporation manufactures railway and tramway cars of almost every variety. 
Its specialties are tram-cars for horse, electric, or cable railways, and light suburban rail- 
way cars. Parties introducing new types of cars almost invariably are led to seek this 
company for the execution of their ideas. With this company originated the present type 
of electric motor trucks, so widely in use on electric railways; and also many mechanical 
devices for motor suspension and handling secondary batteries. New types of running gears 
and grip trucks for cable railways have also been originated by this coinpany. It -was the 
first corporation to build a sleeping-car for a horse-railway, and some of these cars are in 
use in South America, where the locomotive power is horseflesh, instead of steam, on the 
long journeys into the interior countries. About 600 persons are given employment at the 
Brill works, and the yearly pay-roll approximates $300,000. The J. G. Brill Company have 
the finest shops in this industry, and probably manufacture more tram-cars than any other 
concern in America. There is hardly a city in the country having street-railways that is 
without some of the Brill cars. 

Not all of Philadelphia's most successful business-houses have been long established. 
Some of these planted within a comparatively few years have succeeded wonderfully, and 
are now widely known throughout the country. It was in 1874 that it became apparent in 
many towns and cities where no gas-works existed that some better method than the use of 
coal-oil was needed for the lighting of streets and squares. The outcome of this need was 
the Pennsylvania Globe Gas Light Company, the president of 
which is William L. Elkins. It supplies gas-lights for both 
street and house lighting, made from naphtha or gasoline, by 
means of patent gasoline burners and gas machines. The 
system of this company was the first departure from the old 
coal-oil method of lighting, and it has been universally success- 
ful. The advent of the new burners worked a revolution in 
the method of lighting many of the cities of the country. The 
company has now plants in more than 150 cities and towns. 
The products of the works, which are at 22, 24 and 26 South 
Fifteenth Street, Philadelphia, consists of gas-machines, street and car lamps, headlights 
and gasoline torches. The company also takes contracts for building gas and water works. 
Its street-lightmg burners and apparatus and gas machines have been awarded premiums 
at several expositions. The Pennsylvania Globe Gas Light Company is the parent com- 
pany of many local town-lighting organizations. 




PHILADELPHIA : THc .= E;,:.i , LVA 
GLOBE GAS LIGHT COMPANY. 



756 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STA TES. 




MCKEESPORT ; THE NATIONAL TUBE WORKS. 



One of the colossal concerns 
which make Pennsylvania fa- 
mous is the National Tube 
Works Company, which has its 
manufactory at McKeesport. 
This is the greatest wrought- 
iron pipe works in the world. 
The tubes which this company 
turns out comprise every variety 
of wrought-iron pipe, for steam, 
gas or water, boiler tubes, and 
pipes or tubes used for artesian, salt, oil or gas wells. It is claimed that half of all the 
wrought-iron pipe made in this country is the product of these works. The product of the 
McKeesport plant also includes rods and columns used in mines, grate-bars, hand-rails, 
telegraph poles, gas and air-brake cylinders, injectors, drill-rods and scores of other similar 
goods. The works have had a stupendous growth, the first building having been erected in 
1872. The mill was started with only one furnace, but a second was required within three 
months ; and others followed rapidly. The total acreage of the works is nearly 40, about 
29 acres being under roof. The company was among the first to use natural gas for fuel in 

the manufacture of iron. The gas is the product of 

the company's own wells, and is brought through 20 

miles of pipe to the works. The National Tube Works 

Company was originally an institution of Boston, where 

its treasurer's offices still remain. It has branch-houses 

at Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, 

St. Louis and Chicago. While the stock capital is 

$2,500,000, the plants and properties of the com- 

« pany are valued at more than double that sum. 

Although lard, linseed and other manufactured 
oils are made at Pittsburgh, yet by the term "oil 
trade" is usually meant the business in crude or re- 
fined petroleum. From 1859 to 1884 there were 38,000 
wells drilled in the oil-regions of Western Pennsylvania. 
The total cost of these wells was $170,000,000. During 
the 25 years following there was a total production of 
10,000,000,000 gallons, or 244,000,000 barrels, or over 
1, 100 barrels for every hour for all the days and nights 
of a quarter of a century. This tremendous flowage 
has brought up trade in a number of germane indus- 
tries, notably among which is the Oil Well Supply 
Company, Limited, of Pittsburgh, under the presi- 
dency of John Eaton, whose name is at the head of the 
great Eaton, Cole & Burnham Co. of Connecticut, 
the two corporations being very closely allied. In 
the oil-well supply the increase of business is well-nigh 
incalculable, and includes all the machinery, apparatus 
and appliances for boring, piping, barrelling, loading, re- 
fining and shipping oils in packages or in tank-cars and 
for conveying oil from the wells to storage-tanks and 
refineries. The Oil Well Supply Company, Limited, of 
Pittsburgh, which has a capital stock of $500,000, con- 
piTTSBURGH : OIL WELL SUPPLY CO. ducts branchcs at Oil City, Bradford, Washington, Butler, 




7^ HE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



757 




PHILLIPSBURG : 



Warren, North Clarendon, Eldred, all of Pennsyl- 
vania ; at New-York City and Bolivar, New York ; 
I-ima, Van Wert, Cygnet and Marietta, of Ohio, 
forming in fact the foremost house in this industry. 
Pennsylvania early gained the lead in the glass 
manufacture, and has kept it. Some of the most 
elegant table glass-ware is the product of her fac- 
tories. The Phoenix Cllass Company, has its head- 
quarters a few miles from Pittsburgh, at its factor- 
ies in Phillipsburg. The works cover two acres, 
and 700 persons are employed. The chief product is rich cut-glass table-ware, of the highest 
grade only, equal to the products of the best European factories. This ware is distributed 
throughout the country ; and is exported in large quantities abroad. The pitchers, carafes 
and rose-bowls produced are marvels of skill and beauty. Other specialties are the beau- 
tiful decorated parlor, study and banquet lamps, which have become so popular among 
people of refinement. They ai'e constantly adding new features in decoration, shapes and 
styles. The banquet and parlor lamps produced are remarkable for their exquisite beauty 
of form and coloring. The popular opal glass-ware, which is so much admired, is manu- 
factured here, in many varieties. The product also includes fancy-colored glass-globes for 
gas and electric lights, both etched and plain. One of the sights of western Pennsylvania 

is the works of the Phoenix Glass Company, 
developed under the management of Andrew 
Howard, its president, assisted by A. H. Pat- 
terson, manager, who has charge of the large 
salesrooms, at 729 Broadway, New York, 
where a full line of wares is to be found. 

One of the greatest glass manufactories of 
Pennsylvania is that of C. Dorflinger & Sons, 
a New-York firm, whose factory is at White 
Mills, in Wayne County. This is the foremost 
of ajl the exclusive cut-glass manufactories 
of the United States. Here fully 325 persons 
are given employment and the annual pay-roll approximates $125,000. Its specialties are 
blown crystal, plain and cut-glass, but it is specially famous among the connoisseurs and the 
glass-ware and jewelry and fine-art trade for its elegant richly cut table glassware, for a 
display of which an award was made at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia, in 1876. 
Dorflinger & Sons also make druggists' and perfumery glassware of high grade, including 
elaborate cut-glass cologne bottles. Still another specialty of manufacture is that of speci- 
men jars for the use of colleges and museums. The present proprietors founded in 1852 
this celebrated plant, which covers four acres, and produces much of the richest cut-glass 
in the world, fairly rivalling the choicest and costliest work of the great European factories. 

A lamp chimney is a very little thing, of trifling 
value, and yet it is indispensable in the house- 
hold. Especially is this true since the handsome par- 
lor and study lamps became so popular. From Pitts- 
burgh comes a large proportion of the millions of lamp 
chimneys and globes which are used in this country 
and in China, Japan, South America, Australia, and all 
parts of Europe. Geo. A. Macbeth & Co. are the pro- 
prietors of the immense Macbeth Lamp Chimney 
Works, covering a square and a half of the city, where 
these articles are manufactured. They gather their 




WHITE MILLS : C. DORFLINGER 




PITTSBURGH : GEORGE A. MACBETH & CO. 



/CLVG'S HANDBOOK Of THE UNITED STAVES. 




7S8 

materials from France, England, Peru, Chili and Turkey, and send them forth in the manu- 
factured state. Every kind of lamp glasses, some of them very curious and beautiful, is made 
by this firm. By makint^ a chimney known everywhere as the " Pearl Top," that is unbreak- 
able in ordinary uses, they have saved the people of 
all countries a fabulous sum of money. It is the 
leading concern of its kind in this country, making 
the largest output in value in lamp chimneys. 

Philadelphia is noted for several large com- 
mercial houses which date their foundation pre- 
vious to the year 1800. One of the most notable 
of these stable establishments is the firm of David 
Landreth & Sons, seed-growers, which had its 
BRISTOL! BLOOMSDALE SEED FARM, LANDRETH & SONS, rise in 1 784. Indeed, this house is by many 
years the pioneer in America in the seed-growing industry. It is a real delight to visit 
their Bloomsdale Farm, at Bristol (Penn.), the main seat of their seed-growing operations, 
known throughout the Union as a model farm and establishment in respect to systematic 
agriculture. The farm is quite a pretty village in itself, with its 35 tenant-houses, seed 
storage houses, wagon sheds, seed barns, saw-mill, extensive stables, corn cribs and other 
buildings. All varieties of garden vegetable seeds and many farm seeds go out from this 
farm through the Bristol and Philadelphia shipping offices to all parts of the globe ; and 
through David Landreth & Sons, American vegetables have been disseminated everywhere. 
An enormous concern which has made Pennsylvania famous is the Gibsonton rye-whisky 
distillery, whose product is known everywhere. 
This great concern was established more than half 
a century ago. Its present proprietors are Moore 
& Sinnott, who succeeded the firm of John Gibson's 
Sons & Co. The original founder of the house was 
John Gibson, who was a thorough master of the 
business, and from small beginnings developed in 
a few years a large and growing industry. At the 
outset the founder established a high standard of 
excellence for his rye whiskies, and this standard 
has been maintained. The whiskies produced at these distilleries are used in the hospitals 
of Pennsylvania, and by the wholesale dealers throughout the United States, Europe, the West 
Indies, South America and China. The distilleries are at Gibsonton, on the Monongahela 
River, and constitute a series of large and substantially-built structures, fitted up in the most 
elaborate manner. In many ways it is the most perfectly equipped establishment of the kind 
in the country. There are 200 hands employed, and the capacity 
is 100 barrels a day. The offices and warehouses of Moore & 
Sinnott are at Philadelphia ; and the firm has agencies in the 
chief American cities. 

An eminently successful industry of Philadelphia is the 
manufacture of shoe-blacking, by the James S. Mason Com- 
pany. The house of James S. Mason was founded in 1832, 
and years ago established a national, indeed, a world-wide, 
reputation. There is no nation on the earth where shoes are 
worn in which Mason's blacking is not found. The best 
scientific ability has been employed in perfecting this seem- 
ingly simple product, and it is now the standard of the United- 
States Government. This establishment claims to be, and un- 
doubtedly is, the largest of its kind in the world. Many mil- 
philadelphia: JAMES MASON & CO. Hons of boxcs of blacking are made and distributed annually 




GIBSONTON : MOORE A SINNOTT. 




THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



759 




PrilLADELPHia ; 

S. S. WHITE DENTAL MANUFACTURING 

COMPANY. 



by lliis concern ; and a large number of persons are employed in its manufacture. Its labels 
are printed in the English, Spanish and French languages ; and it is interesting to see the 
many counterfeits that have been made, to steal away a part of the business due to this 
firm's high standing in its own special industry. The trade- 
mark of the dog seeing his likeness in the boot polished with 
Mason's blacking has become familiar everywhere. 

The S. S. White Dental Manufacturing Company, the 
largest house of its class in the world, is the lineal successor 
to the business founded by the late S. S. White in 1844. The 
headquarters of the company are in its own fine marble-front 
building at Chestnut and Twelfth Streets, Philadelphia, with 
branches at New York, Boston, Chicago and Brooklyn. In 
age, in extent of works, in manufacturing capacity, in quantity, 
quality and variety of products, and in the importance of its 
specialties, this house is recognized throughout the world as 
the representative dental supply house. The industrial history 
of this country furnishes few parallels to its cosmopolitan repu- 
tation. The manufactures of the house have received 108 first 
premiums, including one from each of the great World's Ex- 
positions. The leading specialty of the house is porcelain teeth, but its manufactures in- 
clude every conceivable article needed in dental practice, from the smallest hand implement 
to the costliest dental chair. Its specialties for the mouth, including everything required 
for dental hygiene, have an immense popular sale throughout the country. The Dental 
Cosmos, a monthly journal now in its thirty-third volume, published by the house, is 
acknowledged to be the leading dental journal of the world. This great house obtained 
and maintains its foremost position by the unquestioned superiority of its products, which 
throughout the habitable globe are to be found wherever dentistry is intelligently practiced. 
Pittsburgh makes three fourths of the glass lamp-chimneys used in America and vast 
quantities of silvered glass and stained glass. The fine Baccarat and Val St. Lambert glass 
of Europe has been surpassed by the Pennsylvania product ; and the English output is 
already far below the American, in point of quantity. Plate-glass was almost entirely im- 
ported, until within a few years, but now the immense works at Pittsburgh, Butler and 
other points make scores of millions of feet yearly, and have almost entirely stopped the 
importation, and lowered the price from $1.50 a square foot to about half that rate. 

The kid and morocco leather industry flourishes to an enormous extent in Philadelphia, 
where there are many establishments, representing several millions of capital. Here are 
the tanneries of McNeely & Co., employing a capital of about $2,000,000, and occupying 
nearly an entire square ; all of brick, and ex- 
tending an eighth of a mile, with a floor-space 
of 228,000 feet, and equipped with modern 
machinery and appliances used in the various 
processes by which the raw, hair-covered skin 
is converted into dainty and pliable leather. 
The total product is about 12,000 skins daily. 
McNeely & Co. are not only the largest pro- 
ducers of kid in America, but are the largest 
ill the world. They are the oldest existing 
house in the trade in Philadelphia, having been established in 1809. The business has been 
in the McNeely family for the better part of a century, and is now conducted with all the 
skill and aptitude given by long experience and inherited skill. These famous factories 
have branches in other cities, and transact a business of vast extent and value, extending all 
over the' world. There are about 500 employees in the works at Philadelphia, and the 




IILADELPHIA : McNEELY 



760 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UJVITED STATES. 




PHILADELPHIA (GRAY S FERRY 

HARRISON BROTHERS i CO. 



in^jenious apparatus and machines used in the pro- 
cesses of morocco-making are driven by a 300 horse- 
power engine. 

A great and substantial industry of Philadelphia, 
which had its rise in the last century, is the paint 
ind chemical manufactory of Harrison Bros. & Co., 
whose name is a household word among painters the 
country over. The house was founded in 1793, 
almost a century ago, by John Harrison, the grand- 
father of the members of the present firm. His en- 
terprise won the admiration and encouragement of 
yefferson, who foresaw the importance to the nation 
of the industries he founded. About the year 1840, 
the founder of the business was succeeded by John Harrison's Sons, and they in turn by 
Harrison Bros. & Co., made up of Thomas, M. Lieb, John, George L., and Thomas S. Harri- 
son. The two first-named sold out their interest in 1877, and the firm now includes John 
Harrison, George L. Harrison, Jr., and Thomas S. Harrison. The quality and quantity of 
the goods, and the financial responsibility of the house, make this one of the establishments 
in which all Philadelphians take pride. The firm's works are located at Gray's Ferry, on 
the banks of the Schuylkill River, the plant covering 30 acres of ground. Over $1,000,000 
dollars have been laid out on this manufactory, which is said to be the largest and best- 
equipped of its kind in the United States. Its products are well-known all over the Union, 
and are sold to the amount of about $6,000,000 a year. 

Dainty and admirable prints, delicate and attractive satines, and superb qualities of 

mourning goods, 
are the chief pro- 
ilucts of the 
iMldystone Man- 
ufacturing Com- 
pany, whose pic- 
turesque mills 
line the bank of 
the Delaware 




CHESTER : EDDYSTONE MANUFACTURING CO. 

River at Chester. This great concern was founded more than forty years ago, by William 
Simpson, whose name is also at the head of the eminent dry-goods commission house of 
\Vm. Simpson, Sons & Co., the selling agents of the Eddystone Company. Its growth has 
been such that the plant now covers more than 150 acres of land with its various buildings; 
including besides the mills, numerous dwellings for workmen, and a hall and public-library 
building, containing a well-selected library free to all employees. About 1,000 hands are 
employed in these immense works, and the pay-roll aggregates yearly if!500,C)00. The pro- 
duct of the Eddystone works is printed cotton fabrics, grading from ordinary calico to the 
finest printed satines, fully equal to the best French goods. This house was the pioneer in 
the successful use of aniline black and colors in cotton printing. It first introduced into 
this country, black and white, and grey 
mourning prints, and fine satines in fig- ,^ 
ures and in solid black. In the manu- 
facture of these goods the Simpson and 
Eddystone names stand pre-eminent. 

A great industry, distinctively Ameri- 
can, and to which foreign nations pay a 
well-deserved tribute, is the long estab- 
lished and extensive oil -cloth and Philadelphia; thqmas potter, sons i co. 





PHILADELPHIA : 
WOOD, BROWN & CO. 



THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 761 

linoleum manufactory of Thomas Potter, Sons & Co. Incorporated. Its origin is in romance. 
Years before Independence was declared and announced by the sweet-toned bell upon 
Independence Hall, James Hamilton was Colonial Governor of Pennsylvania. His residence 
was at Bush Hill, a fine old manor-house, which was noted the country around ; and ac- 
cording to Washington's diary (still in existence), many feasts were held there, at which 
the Father of his Country was a welcome guest. In later years, the old mansion changed 
from a residence, to become of equal note in the industrial world. Here in the early part 
of this century, Isaac Macauley established a small oil-cloth and carpet factory. He ran 
along with varying success until 1838, when Thomas Potter, whose 
name is at the head of the present company, succeeded to the 
business. From that day, the reputation of the house, for the 
excellence of its product, began to advance, until now they export 
their manufactured articles to all portions of the world. The plant 
covers 5^ acres, and includes 31 buildings, many of them being 
large stone and brick structures. About 400 men are employed, 
and the product is said to exceed that of any other similar man- 
ufactory in the world. The company is recognized as one of the 
most noteworthy in the United States. 

In and around Philadelphia are a few houses that date 
their beginning more than a century ago. Among these is the 
business house of Wood, Brown & Co., which lays claim to being 
the oldest wholesale dry-goods house in the United States. It has, 
as evidence of its age, the original account-books, kept in pounds, 
shillings and pence, of Wood & Bacon, an old-fashioned country dry-goods store at Green- 
wich, Cumberland County, N. J. These books run back to 1760. The son of this Mr. 
Wood was the late Richard D. Wood, who came to Philadelphia and established the whole- 
sale dry-goods house of Wood, Abbott & Wood, in 1823. Since then the old business has 
been continued mainly by Wood & Bacon ; there having been three firms of Wood, Bacon 
& Co., in three generations in this century, the last being succeeded in 1886 by the house of 
Wood, Brown & Co., recognized as one of the largest and richest in the wholesale dry-goods 
business. The late Richard D. Wood was remarkable for his executive ability, and for his 
mastery of several distinct lines of business. He was the head of R. D. Wood & Co., 
noticed elsewhere as the foremost cast-iron pipe founders of this country ; and of the Mill- 
ville Manufacturing Company, owners of extensive cotton-mills ; and of R. D. Wood & 
Sons, a leading dry-goods commission house ;"and his associates, by reason of their 
absolutely essential aid at important times, may also be called the founders of the wonderful 
Cambria Iron Works, at Johnstown. 

The number of hats manufactured by a single firm in Philadelphia 
enormous. From the factory of John B. Stetson & Co. are turned 
fully 600,000 of the finest fur, felt, soft and stiff hats. An enormous 
hare, coney, beaver and nutria skins are obtained from South America 
Germany, France, Russia and the Northwestern portions of our 
own country, from which is cut the fur used in the manufacture 
of this production ; and employment is given to more than a 
thousand persons. The yearly pay-roll approximates half a 
million of dollars. An entire city block, bounded by Fourth 
and Cadwalader Streets and Montgomery Avenue is occupied 
by the brick buildings of these extensive works. Beside 
this block, an additional building, 175 by 48 feet and seven 
stories high, at the corner of Cadwalader Street and Mont 
gomery Avenue is occupied by John B. Stetson & Co., and con- 
nected with the main building by a bridge. Nearly all of the Philadelphia: johnb. stetson i co, 





PHILADELPHIA : 
HASELTINE'S ART-GALLERIES. 



KI.\'G'S HANDBOOK OF Till': UNITED STATES. 

International expositions of modern times have awarded medals or 
other premiums for the product of this great factory. Among 
these, at the Paris Exposition of 1889 the grand prize, highest 
award, fell to Mr. Stetson. The industry was established just at the 
close of the late war, and that it has reached its present proportions 
is due to the industry, ability and prudent management of its pro- 
prietor. Mr. Stetson also has found time and money to devote 
to religious and educational work ; as is evidenced by the religious 
association which has quarters adjoining the factory in Philadel- 
phia ; and the John B. Stetson University at DeLand, Florida. 

No visitor to Philadelphia, especially no lover of art, fails to 
visit the famous Haseltine Art Galleries, incomparably the largest, 
grandest and costliest for the art business in the United States. 
They are located at 1416 and 1418 Chestnut Street; and occupy 
all but the lower floors of a strikingly attractive structure of eight 
stories, known 'as the Haseltine building. For the proper display 
of works of art there are six large galleries, with skylights, and 
other rooms, side-lighted, forming altogether the finest art sales- 
rooms certainly in the United States, and hardly approached by 
any in Europe. Here is gathered a wonderful variety of paintings, statuary, etchings, en- 
gravings, autotypes and photographs, drawn from all portions of Europe. Exhibitions of 
the works of noted artists are held in these galleries, which are often thronged with the 
beauty, fashion and intelligence of the city. Here can always be seen for sale the largest 
stock of works of the greatest modern artists. Charles F. Haseltine, the proprietor, was 
the first to introduce into this country the famous Braun's autotypes, as well as the works of 
numerous painters who afterwards achieved great reputation. The galleries are usually free. 

Of remarkable interest to every visitor to Philadelphia is the great trade-mart of John 
Wanamaker. This is the largest retail establishment in the world, and its fame was world- 
wide long before its founder and owner became the Postmaster-General of the United 
States. Nearly 15 acres of floor-space are occupied by this great store, and over 4,000 
persons a'-e employed. The business is divided into more than 50 departments, and there 
is scarcely any article in ordinary use which cannot be obtained here. The departments of 
this house are not merely called such, they are in fact just so many complete establish- 
ments. The goods are remarkable for their high grade, this being in no sense a mart 
for old stocks, but everything being as bright and new as the markets of the world can 
supply. The characteristic feature of the house has been its uniform and liberal treatment 
of all, regai^dless of wealth or station, always serving the best goods at the best terms which 

its enormous facilities could command. 
From the first its rule has been, "Be 
satisfied with your purchase, or have 
your money back." The system of 
the establishment is wonderful, more 
than six miles of pneumatic tubes 
being employed in connection with 
the cashiers' desks, and for other pur- 
poses. Nearly 1,300 electric lights arc 
in use; and 150 horses are constantly 
employed in the delivery of goods. 
PHILADELPHIA ; JOHN WANAMAKER. The storc also docs an extensive mail 

trade, whereby people in all States and countries avail themselves of this firm's opportunities. 
The Book N'ews, published by Wanamaker, is a monthly literary periodical. The yearly busi- 
ness of John Wanamaker in this vast emporium reaches many million dollars. 





Settled at Providence. 

Settled in 1636 

Founded by . ... Englishmen. 

One of the Original 13 States. 

Population, in i860, . . . 174,620 

In 1870, 217,353 

In 1880, 276,531 

White, 269,939 

Colored, 6,592 

American -born, . . . 202,538 

Foreign-born 73,993 

Males, 1331O30 

Females, I43,50i 

In 1890 (U.-S. censu<=), . 345,506 

Population to the square mile, 254.9 



76,8 



$322,000,000 
1,250 



1.327 

5 



Voting Population 
Vote for Harrison (if 
Vote for Cleveland (1 

Net State Debt, . . 

Assessed Valuation ot 
Property (1890), . . 

Area (square miles), . 

U. S. Representatives, 
• Militia (Disciplintd), 

Counties, 

Post-offices, .... 

Railroads (miles), . . . , 214 

Vessels, 246 

j Tonnage, ^6,727 

1 Manufactures (yearlvi, §104,16^,621 
j Operatives, ..... 67,878 
j Yearly Wages, . . . §21,355,619 
j Farm Land (in acres), . 514,813 

Farm-Land Values, . . §25,882,079 
Farm Products (yearly) §31670,135 

Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 33,803 

Newspapers 66 

Latitude, . . . 41" 9' to 42° 3' N. 

Longitude, . . 7i''o' to 7i''53' W. 

Temperature, .... — 9° to 92° 

Mean Temperature, Providence 48° 

TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POP- 
UL.\TIONS. (CENSUS OF 189O.) 

Providence, 132,146 

Pawtucket, 27,633 

Woonsocket, 
Lincoln, 
Newport, . 
Warwick, . . 
Johnston, . . . 
East Providence, 
Cranston, . . . 
Cumberland, 



The aborigines were the 

Narragansetts, formerly a 
3\ powerful tribe, and even as 

late as 1 630 5,000 valiant 

warriors. At that time, 

their chiefs were Canonicus 

and his nephew, Miantono- 

mi. In Bristol Coimty 

lived many Wampanoags, 
under the great Sachem Massasoit, whose domain reached 
across to Massachusetts Bay. 

The founder of Rhode Island was Roger Williams, a 
young nonconformist minister from England, who mi- 
grated to Salem in 163 1, and suffered banishment thence 
for "his new and dangerous opinions against the authority 
of magistrates." The Puritan leaders ordered that he 
should be carried back to England, but he escaped to the 
wilderness, and dwelt there many weeks with the friendly 
Indians. In June, 1636, with five companions, he de- 
scended the Seekonk River in a canoe, and found an eligible 
site on the Moshassuck River, which he named Providence, 
as a memorial of "God's merciful providence to him in 
his distress." He received a grant of the land from Canoni- 
cus, in acknowledgment of his mediation in a feud between 
that potentate and Massasoit. 

The island of Aquidneck was settled by Antinomian 
exiles from Massachusetts, at Portsmouth (1638) and New- 
jiort (1639); and»in 1642 Samuel Gorton went into the 
wilderness and founded Shawomet (Warwick). The uni- 
fication of Providence, Portsmouth and Newport took place 
in 1643, under the title of " Providence Plantations in the 
Narragansett Bay in New England." The Rhode-Island 
colonies sent Roger Williams as an ambassador to Eng- 
land, where he partly supported himself by reading to 

John Milton, and finally secured a wise colonial charter from the Earl of Warwick. 
first General Assembly adopted the Maritime Code of Olcron, and passed a statute 
cerning Archerie." The first church was organized at Providence, in 163S; the first public 



764 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NEWPORT : OLD STONE MILL. 



^^^if^ school, at Newport, in 1640 ; the first postal route to Boston, in 

.■~^$_j^' 1693; and the first census (showing 7,181 persons), in 1708. 

^v^ "22^ The first newspaper, The Rhode-Island Gazette, appeared at New- 

' — J, port in 1732. In 1663, a comprehensive charter was received 

'^l' from Charles II. ; and for over a century the Province contended 

^^ with the Crown for the rights thus bestowed. This was the last of 

the Thirteen Colonies to accede to the Constitution of the United 

States, preferring its Royal Charter, which indeed remained as 

authority until 1843. 

During King Philip's War, in 1675, 1,000 New-England soldiers 
stormed the great tribal fortress of the Narragansetts, seven miles 
from Narragansett Pier, and in a bitter winter's-day battle slew 
300 Indians, and took 600 prisoners, losing 80 men killed and 
150 wounded. The next year the savages burned Providence, but spared the life of the 
venerable Roger Williams, then nearly eighty years old, and serving as a captain of militia. 
After many a desperate fight, the native power melted away, and King Philip was slain, 
near Mount Hope. 

When the American Revolution broke out, Rhode Island took up arms with patriotic 
enthusiasm. The St. yoh}i was fired upon by Fort George ; the Maidstone'' s boat was 
burnt on Newport Common ; the people fought the Senegal's ofhcers in the streets ; and 
Providence volunteers burnt the Gaspee. ' During the siege of Boston 1,000 Rhode- Island 
troops encamped at Jamaica Plain. The British naval ofiicers bombarded Bristol and 
Warren ; ravaged Prudence Island and Point Judith ; and in other ways devastated the 
brave little State. Newport remained in the hands of the 
British from 1776 to 1779, and Sir Richard Pigott and his 
5,000 troops drove Sullivan's New-England militia from its 
vicinity, after a hard-fought battle. Finally, ruined New- 
port was evacuated, and the French fleet and army of 6,000 
men under Ternay and Rochambeau sailed into the harbor. 
Narragansett Bay was the scene of daring naval encounters, 
and the many privateers sent forth from its waters did 
noble service for the cause of American liberty. The Com- 
monwealth had at one time more than 3,000 disciplined troops in the Continental Line. 

In the new-formed State, suffrage was regarded not as a right, but as a privilege, de- 
pendent on conditions, such as a freehold of $134. The government reposed in the hands 
of a few land-holders, and town-representation finally became singularly inequitable. In 
1842 Thomas Wilson Dorr claimed the governorship, in spite of the fact that Samuel 
Ward King was the regularly elected and active chief magistrate. Then ensued the so- 
called Dorr Rebellion, in which the adherents of Dorr fortified Acote's Hill, at Chepachet. 
But on the advance of the State troops, the force assembled here melted away, with the 
unprecedented loss (as a local wit said) of killed, none ; wounded, none ; missing, the entire 
army. The State authorities, by this uprising made aware of the popular uneasiness, drew 
up a new Constitution, which supplanted the old charter of Charles 
II., in 1843. 

The Rhode-Island contingent in the late civil war numbered 
23,236 men, out of a population of 175,000. Of this force, 255 
were killed, 1,265 ^^^^ of wounds or disease, and 1,249 were 
wounded in battle. These fallen heroes are commemorated by 
elaborate monuments at Providence and elsewhere. 

The local historical relics include the Indian fortresses ; the 

PAWTucKET State Houses ; Trinity Church, at Newport, dating from 1726 ; the 

THE OLD SLATER MILL. Ncwport syuagoguc, the first in America (1762); the ivy-clad 




BLOCK ISLAND. 





NEWPORT : PERRY MONUMENT. 



THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 

Old Stone Mill, at Newport, long attributed to the eleventh-cen- 
tury Norsemen (see Longfellow's The Skeleton in A r?noi-); the 
Newport City Hall, built in 1760, by one of the architects of 
Blenheim Palace ; the block-house (built in 1641), and Episcopal 
Church (built in 1707), at Wickford ; the French Memorial, 
over the graves of the French soldiers at Providence ; and many 
legend-haunted colonial houses in Warren and Bristol, and in 
the Narragansett Country. At Providence we may see Slate 
Rock, where Roger Williams was saluted by the Indians with, 
"What Cheer, Netop;" the Friends' Meeting-IIouse, dating 
from 1727; the First Baptist Church, built in 1775; and the 
quaint old houses of Tillinghast (1710), Hopkins (1750), Whipple 
(1659) and Browne (1786). The Roger-Williams Park of Provi- 
dence is a part of the domain granted by Canonicus to Roger 
Williams, and bequeathed to the city by his descendant in the sixth generation. The munici- 
pality accepted this noble gift, in 1872, and it is now a beautiful region of lawns and groves 
and drives, still enshrining the venerable colonial house of the Williams family, and adorned 
by a fine bronze statue of Roger Williams, with History standing below. 

A few half-breed Narragansett Indians remain on Indian lands in Charlestown, where 
the State has carefully preserved their royal burying-ground, and Fort Ninigret, a fortress 
erected by the Dutch before the English came to New England, and after- 
wards an aboriginal stronghold. Here also is Coronation Rock, where 
Esther, the last Narragansett queen, was crowned, in 1770. The State 
abolished the tribe in 1880. 

The Name of the State was fixed when the island of Aquidneck 
was re-named in memory of the heroic defence of the Isle of Rhodes by 
the Knights of St. John. The Mediterranean origin of the 
name seems to be certified by the Colonial act of 1644: "The 
island of the Aquethneck shall be called the Isle of Rhodes." 
The pet name of the Commonwealth is Little Rhody, an 
epithet indicating its limited area. 

The State Arms were adopted in 1647, and consist of a 
golden anchor, emblazoned on a blue shield or flag. Various 
accessories of sky, waves, and ships, and a fouled rope on the 
anchor are fancies of engravers. The gold is an heraldic sign of 
sovereignty ; and refers to the fact that Rhode Island (as well 
as North Carolina) remained for several years outside of the Union, as an independent and 
sovereign State. The blue represents the sea, in allusion to the local maritime activities. 
The motto is Hope, an idea also suggested by the anchor. 

The Governors of Rhode Island since the breaking out of the Revolutionary War have 
been: Nicholas Cooke, 1775-8; Wm. Greene, 1778-86; John Collins, 1786-90; Arthur 
Fenner, 1790-1805; I. Wilbour (acting), 1806-7; James Fenner, 1807-11; Wm. Jones, 
1811-17; N. R. Knight, 1817-21 ; Wm. C. Gibbs, 1821-4; J. Fen- 
ner, 1824-31 ; L. H. Arnold, 1831-3; J. B. Francis, 1833-8 
Sprague, 1 838-9 ; Samuel W^ard King, 1840-3 ; James Fenner, 
1843-5 ; Charles Jackson, 1845-6; Byron Diman, 1846-7; Eli- 
shaHarris, 1847-9; Henry B. Anthony, 1849-51; Philip Allen, 
185 1-3 ; Francis M. Dimond, 1853-4; Wm. Warner Hoppin, 
1854-7; ElishaDyer, 1857-9; Thomas G.Turner, 1859-60; Wm. 
Sprague, 1860-3; Wm. C. Cozzens (acting), 1863; J. Y. Smith, 
1863-6 ; iVmbroseE. Burnside, 1 866-9; Seth Padelford, 1869- 
73; Henry Howard, 1873-5; Henry Lippitt, 1875-7; Charles C. warren ; george hail library. 




PROVIDENCE : 
ROGER-WILLIAMS MONUMENT. 




766 



KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




NARRAGANSETT PIER : THE CASINO. 



Van Zandt, 1877-80; Alfred H. Littlefield, 1880-3; A. O. Bourn, 1883-5; 
G. P. Wetmore, 1885-7; Jolm W. Davis, 1887-9; 
Royal C. Taft, 1889; Herbert W. Ladd, 1S89-90; J.W. 
Davis, 1890-1 ; and H. W. Ladd, 189I-2. 
/.^'*^^^'''*^^^'jB^'- ^J^..' ' J ' iiiiiti^ i_^ Descriptive. — The State is the small- 

^ ' ~ .- ^^^ .^^ ^j^^ Republic ; and Texas has 240 

times its area. Rhode Island finds its main 
feature in Narragansett Bay, a beautiful and 
navigable arm of the sea, thirty miles long, 
covering 130 square miles, and branching 
into ten harbors. Among its 15 islands are 
Conanicut, Prudence, Patience, Hope and 
Despair. The island of Rhode Island is a 
rich and beautiful domain, 15 miles long, with 22,000 inhabitants. It has been happily called 
"The Eden of America" and "The Isle of Peace ;" and the bold cliffs and magnificent beaches 
of its coast enclose ferny valleys, odorous vi^ith wild roses, lily-whitened ponds and sea-blown 
orchards. Here the traveller still may see the lone rock where dwells Ida Lewis, the Grace 
Darling of the Western Continent ; the beach where Washington Allston used to walk and 
meditate ; the farm-house whence the British general, Prescott, was haled into captivity, in 
1777 ; the Old Stone Mill ; and the ancient mansion of Dean Berkeley, who wrote the poem 
closing with the noble prophecy: "Westward the course of empire takes its way. " Conanicut, 
seven miles long, is chiefly known as a summer-resort. 



with many pretty villas and hotels, and a ferry to New- /^ 
port. Block Island, 30 miles southwest of Newport, is 
a sea-surrounded town eight by three miles in area, 
wind-shorn and wood-forsaken, and inhabited by'fisher- 
men and shepherds. It is also a famous summer-resort, 
with many large hotels, and daily steamboats to New- 
port, Providence and New London. Its Indian name 
was Manisees. Bristol and Warren are ancient bay 
ports, rich with historical reminiscences and legends of 
the Norsemen and Indians. Along the rapid rivers, 
Blackstone, Pawtuxet, Woonasquatucket and others extend scores of factory-villages, availing 
themselves of the water-powers. Around Narragansett Bay, with its bold bluffs and head- 
lands, islands, coves and beaches, there are many famous summer-resorts, Wickford, the 
Buttonwoods, Oakland Beach, and Sakonnet Point, with Newport and Conanicut. At the 
extreme southwest, Watch-Hill Point projects into the sea, bearing a dozen summer-hotels, 
and an ancient light-house. Excursion steamboats continually ply along the bay, during 
the joyous summers, bearing thousands of merry-makers. One of the most cherished insti- 
tutions of Yankee-land is the Rhode-Island clam-bake ; and along the 
Providence River there are numerous popular resorts, like Rocky Point, 
Squantum and Silver Spring, where this succulent shell-fish is served 
up, with sweet corn and other adjuncts. The clam-bake is made by 
preparing a rough floor of stones ; heating it to a high temper- 
ature by a wood fire built on top ; sweeping away the embers ; 
covering the stones with sea-weed, with a heap of clams thereon ; 
and then another layer of sea-weed, and over all a sheet of 
thick canvas to keep in the steam. 

Newport, the quaint old colonial town, has been enlarged 
by a beautiful park-like region of villas and gardens reach- 
ing across to the sea, and traversed by the famous Bellevue 
PROVIDENCE : BURN6IDE STATUE, Avcnuc, and other broad boulevards, lined with the costly 




NEWPORT : THE CASINO. 




THE ST A TE OF RHODE ISLAND. 



767 



cottages and ornamental grounds of the Vanderbilts, Goelets, Astors, Belmonts, Bennetts, 
Mortons, Agassiz and other millionaire families. The large hotels have vanished, all but 
one ; and Newport is distinct in housing its guests in pleasant lodgings and cottages, with 
domestic privacy, and freedom from noisy caravansary life. The fame of this lovely summer- 
city is world-wide, and has been growing for sixty years. The Casino is a quaint Old-English 



of an aristo- 
gansett Pier, 
famous old 




PROVIDENCE : FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH. 



structure, with a theatre, tennis-court and other adjuncts, the property 
cratic club of summer-residents. There is a similar Casino at Narra- 
where the sea beats along the rocky shores and sandy strand of the 
Narragansett country. The Narragansett-Bay fisheries employ 1,400 
men, 80 vessels, and 1,200 boats, and $700,000 in capital, and yield 
yearly 6,000,000 pounds of food-fish, 450,000 pounds of lobsters, 
300,000 bushels of oysters, and 120,000 bushels of clams, ^ ' , 

quahaugs and scallops. The oyster-beds belong to the State, 
and are leased ; some of them, together with the clam and 
quahaug beds, being reserved by law as free to the people. 

The Pawcatuck River is navigable to Westerly, and the 
Seekonk to Pawtucket. Providence River is a deep estuary 
reaching for eight miles, from the Seekonk River to Nayatt 
Point, and affording 40,000 acres of safe anchorage ground. 
The Government engineers have skilfully deepened this har- 
bor from four feet to 25 feet. 

The Climate is the blandest and most equable in New England. It is supposed that 
a branch of the Gulf Stream flows into Narragansett Bay, causing a warmth and moisture 
unusual in this latitude. The mean temperature is about 48°, and the rainfall 40^ inches. 

The Geology of Rhode Island concerns itself with 
Eozoic Montalban gneiss, west of the bay, and coal-bear- 
ing strata under and east of the bay. Nearly 800,000 tons 
of an exceedingly hard coal have been taken out, mining 
having begun in 1808. The long-deserted shafts at Ports- 
mouth were pumped out and reopened in 1889. The coal 
is almost pure carbon, and requires an intense draught. It 
burns a long time, and with a strong heat. At Westerly 
there are quarries of fine granite, white, red, blue, and 
mottled, a beautiful and durable building material. This 
is one of the strongest granites known, and sustains a pressure of 19,000 pounds to the square 
inch. Among other minerals are limestone, sandstone, serpentine, marble, and brick-clay. 
Agriculture yields a yearly product of $8,000,000, the property in farms and buildings 
being valued at .$40,000,000. On the island of Rhode Island the land is rich, and the other 
islands and the towns east of the bay have very fertile soil. One fourth of the State is in 




NEWPORT : THE CLIFF WALK. 




NEWPORT AND ITS HARBOR. 




PROVIDENCE : HIGH SCHOOL. 



768 hriNG'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 

forests, mostly oak, walnut and chestnut, with pine-plains and cedar-swamps in the south, 
sinking into extensive salt-marshes, bordered by lonely sand-dunes and untrodden beaches. 

The Government consists of a governor, with no veto power, a lieutenant- 
governor, secretary of State, attorney -general and treasurer ; and the General 
Assembly, composed of a Senate, with one senator from each of the 36 cities 
and towns, and a House of Representatives. There is a 
Supreme Court, with subordinate county courts. The General 
Assembly meets at Newport in May, for a short term, and 
then adjourns to meet at Providence in January for the main 
session. The State House at Providence dates from 1759, and 
is a plain brick building, with a belfry. Here are the State 
Library, the legislative halls, many portraits of local notables, 
Stuart's portrait of Washington, the Colonial Charter of 1663, 
and the Revolutionary standards and Secession-War battle-flags 
and guidons of the State troops. The State House at Newport is a venerable building of 
1738, standing on Washington vSquare. The results of the State elections are proclaimed 
from its balcony. Energetic efforts are being made to erect a fine Capitol at Providence. 
The Militia comprises one brigade, consisting of two regiments of infantry of eight 
companies each; two separate companies of infantry (colored); one battalion of cavalry com- 
panies ; a light battery of four 
guns ; a machine-gun battery ; 
and the Newport Artillery ; the 
United Train of Artillery of 
Providence ; the Bristol Train of 
Artillery ; and Kentish Guards, 
of East Greenwich. The State 
owns armories at Woonsocket, 
Pawtucket, East Greenwich 
and Providence. The brigade 
for the last eleven years has 
held a yearly encampment at Oakland Beach, ten miles from Providence. The State owns 
22 pieces of artillery (including Catlings). The Providence Marine Corps of Artillery, 
chartered in 1801, originally included only sea-captains and mariners, and was the first vol- 
unteer light battery in the United States. The eight admirable and efficient batteries sent 
out by Rhode Island to the Secession War learned the science of artillery from this famous 
school of gunners. In 1889 the State organized a naval battalion, including Naval Reserve 
Artillery and Naval Reserve Torpedo companies. The Soldiers' Home is at Bristol. 

The Charities and Corrections are in Cranston, seven miles from Providence, on 
the State Farm of 530 acres. The State Prison, built of local stone, in 1874-8, has I12 
convicts ; and on the same unhappy domain are the State Work-House and House of Cor- 
rection, with 220 inmates ; the State Asylum for the Incurable Insane, 530 patients ; the 
State Almshouse, 230; the Providence-County Jail, 290; and the State Reform School, 
200. The State Home and School for Neglected and Dependent Children was founded in 




vD THE PAWGATUCK RIVEK 




PROVIDENCE, AND PROVIDENCE RIVER. 



THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 769 

1885, at Providence, and has 120 little ones in charge. The State School for the Deaf has 
four teachers and 30 pupils. The Butler Hospital for the Insane is a handsome brick build- 
ing in a park of 150 acres, on the Seekonk River, in Providence. It was opened in 1847, 
and is a private institution, accommodating 180 persons. The Rhode-Island Hospital, 
also in Providence, is a magnificent pile of buildings, erected in 1867-8, at a cost of $500,000, 
contributed by private generosity. The Dexter Asylum is in Providence. 

The National Works include the torpedo-school, on Goat Island, where the explosives 
are made and stored, and great numbers of torpedoes are kept, with various electrical instru- 
ments. The torpedo-museum is also used as an instruction room, where officers are taught 
how to handle torpedoes. Fort Adams (built in 1824-39) is one of the three chief fortresses of 
the United States, guarding Newport Harbor with 500 cannon, and continually garrisoned by 
regular troops. In the Narragansett waters there are two light-ships and 25 light-houses ; 
and six life-saving stations. The Beaver-Tail light-house, on Conanicut, is the oldest on 

the Americ-\n coast , and the Point Judith light is one 

of the most important f )i m iriners. There 

ai e several abandoned forts around the bay, 

datmg fiom the di>s of olden wars. The 

trainmg school for na\al apprentices is on 

the Imeofbittle ship At-o Hampshire, 

anchored off 

Coaster's-Harbor 

Island (near 

Newport), where 

there are several 

buildings. Here 

400 American 

lids are taught 

in eamanship. 



Education, though fir a ling 
period carefully encoui aged b) the 
fathers of the State, and aided 
by the enactments of 1828 and 
1839, and especially foitifiedby the 
school law of 1845, and the lecent 
law compelling the sending of 
childien to school, has been ham 
pered by the laige foreign pojnilation and the irregular attendance in manufacturing villages. 
Ten per cent, of the people are illiterate, a higher rate than in any other Northern State. 
The revenue for current public-school expenses is $700,000, and about $200,000 in addition 
to this sum is ordinarily expended. There are twelve high-schools, with 1,500 pupils. The 
State Normal School at Providence has about 150 students. 

Brown University, founded as Rhode-Island College, at Warren, in 1765, and later re- 
moved to Providence, has a group of interesting buildings, on an elm-shaded campus of 15 
acres, crowning Prospect Hill. There are 27 instructors, and 270 students (200 from Rhode 
Island). The library has 70,000 volumes; and the museum is large and well arranged. 
University Hall, a copy of Nassau Hall at Princeton, dates from 1770, and was used as a 
barrack and hospital for the American and French soldiery in the Revolution. Among the 
other buildings are the Sayles Memorial Hall, of red Westerly granite, in Romanesque 




77° 



A'/iVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



"' s ai iin,7ij I 
l|IL "** n kVi i| 



PROVIDENCE : LADD OBSERVATORY. 



architecture, erected in i88o ; Manning Hall, a Doric 
temple of stone, dating from 1828; and the beauti- 
ful Venetian-Gothic library, erected in 1878 with a 
bequest from John Carter Brown. Since 1804 the 
University has borne the name of Hon. Nicholas 
lirown, a generous benefactor. It is Baptist in ten- 
dency. Brown University has been growing steadily 
in power, influence and value. Recently it has made 
a substantial advance by reason of a munificent gift 
from Herbert W. Ladd, president of a prominent 
dry-goods company in Providence, which will furnish 
the University with adequate means for thorough instruction and important research in 
astronomy, and place it in line in this respect with other colleges. It was during the donor's 
term as Governor of the State, at the annual Commencement dinner in 1889, that the friends 
of the University were gratified by an announcement that Gov. Ladd proposed to build, 
equip and present to the University an observatory. Work was begun immediately. The 
Observatory is a handsome structure, appointed and equipped with the highest type of sci- 
entific instruments ; and from its site upon Tin-Top Hill commands a wide landscape and 
unbroken sky fron horizon to zenith. The building is one story in height, over an ample 
basement ; and in front is an octagonal tower, surmounted by the revolving dome contain- 
ing the big equatorial, which is mounted on an immense brick pier, on the face of which 
is a bronze plate bearing the donor's name. Gov. Ladd, the founder of this splendid scien- 
tific department, is widely known as one of Rhode Island's most successful business men. 

The Friends' Boarding School, founded more than a century ago, stands on a hill in 
Providence, 182 feet above the tide, and looking out over nearly all Rhode Island and a 
broad area of Massachusetts, and down the fair blue vista of Narragansett Bay. The vener- 




PROVIDEMCe THE FRIENDS SCHOOL 



able trees of tlie 50-acre park overarch rich green lawns and spacious buildings, some of 
them nearly three quarters of a century old, but provided with all the modern comforts and 
conveniences. The school was founded by Moses Brown, in 1784, and has been in the 
charge of the Yearly Meeting of Friends for New England. The influences are genuinely 
religious, but not sectarian, and the pupils are carefully guarded and developed. Much at- 
tention is paid to music and the fine arts, and to the sciences ; and various forms of athletic 
sport find opportunity on the spacious grounds. The school educates boys and girls for 
college or business; and has 22 officers, and 226 students, from 18 States, the principal 
being Augustine Jones, LL. B. , for some time Gov. Andrew's law-partner. George William 
Curtis commends "the excellence of its instruction and the serene influence of its discipline." 
The Redwood Library, incorporated at Newport in 1747, has a collection of 35,000 
books, in a beautiful old Doric building, erected by Peter Harrison, assistant-architect of 
Blenheim Palace, and builder of King's Chapel, Boston. The Providence Athenjeum, dat- 
ing from 1836, is a shareholders' library of 50,000 volumes, with rare paintings and historical 
relics. The Providence Public Library has 38,000 volumes. The Rhode-Island His- 
torical Society's library (founded in 1822) has iS,ooo volumes, 30,000 pamphlets, a cred- 



THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 



771 



itable collection 
of the newspa- 
pers of the State, 
bound and ar- 
ranged in chron- 
ological order, 
together with 
numerous fam- 
ily, town and 
State manu- 
script docu- 
ments and other 
memorials of 
great historic 
value. The 
State Law Li- 
brary has 14,000 
volumes, 




PROVIDENCE : FROM PROSPECT TERRACE. 

Both of these, and also the great library of Brown University, are at Providence. 



There are 140,000 volumes in 37 other public libraries, including the beautiful Old-English 
town-hall and library on Prince's Hill, in Barrington ; the granite building of the George 
Hail Free Library, at Warren ; the Rogers Free Library, at Bristol ; the Pawtucket Free 
Library ; and the Harris-Institute Library, at Woonsocket. 

There are 60 newspapers in Rhode Island, ten of which are dailies. The foremost paper 

is the Providence Joiiriial, dating from 1820. The Newport JSIerciiry was founded in 1758. 

Population. — One fourth of the population is foreign-born, half of these being Irish, 

and a Quarter being French Canadian. In density of population, this excels all other States, 

and is surpassed only by Belgium, British India, the Netherlands, and Great Britain. 

Chief Cities. — Providence, at the head of an arm of Narragansett Bay, is the second city 
of New England, in population and wealth, with a large country trade and shipping, and 
important manufacturing, financial and railroad interests. It is also one of the chief cities 
of the world for the making of jewelry and silverware. Six railways converge here, con- 
necting with lines of steamships to New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore and Norfolk. The 
visitor who looks down from Prospect Terrace will see that Providence is a very pleasant 
city, surrounded by fine swelling hills. The public buildings and churches include many 
good pieces of architecture. The Providence High School, the Brown-University Library, 
and the Narragansett Hotel, as well as the Hail Library at Warren, and the Fall-River 
City Hall, were designed by Wm. R. Walker & Son, the architects, of Providence. Paw- 
tucket lies close to Providence, on the Blackstone River, which furnishes an abundant 
water-power at its falls. Woonsocket is an industrious cotton-manufacturing place, in an 
amphitheatre of hills along the Blackstone, whose falls afford a great power for the mills. 
There are several thousand French-Canadians among the mill-hands, and their language is 

in general use. Newport, on Rhode Island, has one 
of the finest harbors in the world. 

The Narragansett Hotel of Providence has come to 
be one of the best known hotels in the United States. 
Besides being^ of colossal proportions, it possesses 
grandeur, beauty, convenience, and, in fact, every de- 
sirable appointment requisite to a strictly first-class 
hotel. On entering the spacious rotunda one is at- 
tracted by the display of truly artistic taste brought 
into play in its general arrangement. The grand 
PROVIDENCE : NARRAGANSETT HOTEL. marble stalrcasc (30 feet wide), leading to the parlor 




772 



ICING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




PROVIDENCE : UNION DEPOT AND CITY HALL. 



floor, is very attractive. Numerous fine 
and costly paintings, from the brushes 
of some of the world's most noted art- 
ists, are to be seen. Among those at- 
tracting the most attention are the 
"Battle of Trafalgar," after Jazeb; 
"Temptation," by Roestel ; "Tally- 
Ho," by Thorn ; and "Les Premieres 
Fleurs," by L. de Schryver. These 
are in oil, while among those in water 
colors may be mentioned "Le Triumphe d'Artane," by Makart ; "Soiree de September," 
by Japy; " Le Parlementaire," by Belfort, and many others. A large number of masterly 
pieces in the restaurant and cafe, consisting of fruits, flowers, vegetables, game, and fishes, 
from the brush of Leavitt, the noted Rhode-Island artist, also attract attention. The hotel 
will accommodate about 500 guests, is fire-proof, and originally cost over $1,000,000. From 
an exterior view it presents a most imposing appearance. It is seven stories high, cen- 
trally located, and with its 50 feet of streamer bearing aloft its name presents to the spectator 
one of the most conspicuous landmarks in the city of 
Providence. This famous hotel property was formerly 
owned by a corporation, but was recently purchased by 
Charles Fletcher, the noted millionaire woolen manu- 
facturer, and one of the leading citizens of the place. L. 
H. Humphreys, one of its founders, has been sole lessee 
and proprietor for the past ten years, and has renewed 
his lease for ten years to come. The most signal success 
has greeted his every eff"ort during his career, and is sure 
to continue to do so just so long as he continues "Mine 
Host of the Narragansett." 

The Finances of Rhode Island are satisfactory. The 
rate of taxation per head is $9. 74 yearly, which is exceeded 
only by Massachusetts, New York and California. But in 
valuation per head ($1,5 18) it ranks third among the States, 
while in aggregate valuation it ranks 25th. The savings- 
banks have 136,648 depositors (with deposits exceeding 
$66,000,000). Rhode Island had no debt in 1861 ; but at 
the close of the Secession War, she had $4,000,000 o( 
bonds outstanding. The Providence Bank was founded in 1791, and still flourishes. The 
Providence Institution for Savings dates from 1819, and has above $10,000,000 in deposits. 
Providence, "the Bee-Hive of Industry," is also one of the foremost banking cities in 
America, and has an unusually large number of strong financial institutions. 

The Rhode-Island Hospital Trust Co. was incorporated in 1867. Its charter empowers 
it to accept and execute trusts of every description and embracing every kind of property. 
The intentions of its founders have been carried out, and from year to year an increasing 
- number of estates, large and small, have been com- 

mitted to it for settlement or to be held in trust. 
The Courts appoint the company as executor, ad- 
ministrator, or guardian of estates, and recognized 
it in these capacities, and also as trustee under wills, 
trust-deeds, mortgages and other instruments. 
The company's trust business is very large, and its 
management of the afl'airs thus entrusted to it has 
WATCH HILL. bccn coHservativc, successful and satisfactory to 




PHOVIDENCE : 
CATHEDRAL OF STS. PETER AND PAUL. 




THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 



773 



1 



33 q-^^^4-^M 




1 WM^Z T "^^ 



PROVIDENCE 
RHODE-ISLAND HOSPITAL TRUST CO. 



its clients. The company also transacts a very large business as a bank of deposit and dis- 
count — larger than any other institution in the State. In addition to this, it receives money 
on " Participation" under rules similar to those of a savings-bank, but v^'ith the additional 
security of the company's capital and surplus. Its business in 
this department exceeds in amount that of any savings-bank in 
Rhode Island, with three or four exceptions. The capital is 
$1,000,000, besides which there is a large surplus in cash and 
substantial securities. From the beginning the confidence of 
the business community has been given to it freely, and that con- 
fidence it must continue to enjoy while it offers, as at present, the 
security of abundant capital, conservative management, and hon- 
orable and business-like methods. The charter required that a 
fixed proportion of the profits of the business should be paid over, 
annually, to the Rhode-Island Hospital, then just started, and 
this provision has been the source of substantial additions to the 
resources of that charity. 

The Providence Washington Insurance Co. is the largest in- 
surance corporation in Rhode Island, the oldest joint-stock fire 
and marine company in New England, and the sixth oldest in the world. It has had but four 
presidents since its charter was granted, in 1799 — Jackson, Dorr, Kingsbury and DeWolf. 
The liberal privileges accorded to this company in the beginning have enabled it to carry 
forward a large and profitable business, which is facilitated by more than a thousand agents, 

scattered all over the United States ; and the long and 
prosperous life which it has enjoyed bears witness to the 
wise conservatism always exhibited in the management. It 
is unusual to find in these days of change and vicissitude 
a business corporation that was founded while Washington 
was still alive, and which in its development has kept step 
with the advancement of the Republic. This company, 
January i, 1891, had a capital of $500,000; a reinsur- 
ance-reserve of $685,522; claims of $119,756; and a net 
surplus of $119,269, making gross assets of $1,324,548. 

The Railroads of Rhode Island cover 305 miles of 
track, and yearly carry 32,671,430 passengers. The great 
Shore Line from New York to Boston crosses almost the 
entire length of the State. The Boston & Providence line 
was opened in 1835 5 the Stonington, in 1837, and the Wor- 
cester in 1847. There are two railroads from Providence to 
Boston, 44 miles ; and lines from Providence to Stonington, 
Hartford, Pascoag, Worcester, Warren and Bristol, and Fall River and Newport. 

Manufactures have for many years been the chief source of wealth in Little Rhody. 
There are 2,200 establishments, employing 38,000 men, 22,000 women, and 4,400 children. 
The capital is $76,000,000. They pay $58,000,000 for materials; and the annual product 
reaches' $104,000,000. The State is ahead of all others in the production per head of cot- 
ton, woolen, worsted and mixed textiles, and dyeing and bleaching and printing. The cot- 
ton manufacture of America began in Providence in 1788, when Peck, Dexter and Anthony 
set up a spinning-jenny. Moses Brown came into possession of it, and secured the service 
of a young English immigrant, Samuel Slater, an apprentice of Jedediah Strutt, Arkvvright's 
partner. From memory he set up here an entire set of the new spinning machinery, as then 
used in England, and the first factory went into operation on the Pawtucket River, in 1790. 
In other departments of manufacture the skill of Rhode-Island mechanics has won success, 
so that tlie State has become a hive of prosperous industry. 




PROVIDENCE : 
PROVIDENCE WASHINGTON INSURANCE CO. 



774 



AGING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




rc^ti* 



When all the immense 
forest of machinery dis- 
played and in operation at 
the Centennial Exposition 
of 1S76 kept up its cease- 
less round, impelled by the 
power of the one great Cor- 
liss engine, the name of 
the Corliss Steam Engine 
Company, of Providence, 
became known to the peo- 
ple at large, as for a quarter of a century it had been known to the industrial world. More 
than 40 years ago the business of this company was founded by George H. Corliss. He 
was the inventor of the steam-engine which bears his name, and the success of which has 
given rise to so many makers of the so-called "Corliss" engines. To develop and build 
this engine these works were established, and a few years ago were rebuilt from Mr. Cor- 
liss' own plans, whose aim was to construct the model plant of its kind. Elere it was intended 
to build engines with all parts interchangeable for the same sizes, and thus produce at a 
minimum cost the most perfect of engines. Nine acres at the North End of Providence are 
covered by these brick buildings. They are directly on the line of the Old Colony and 
the New-York, Providence & Boston Railroads. Shipments of heavy castings are thus 
rendered easy. Some of the machine-tools used are capable of stupendous duty. For 
example, a large lathe turns and finishes a pulley 30 feet in diameter, by 114 inches width 
of face; a planer is capable of planing a piece seven feet square and 55 feet in length, and 
the bed milling machines handle castings weighing eight tons. All of these machines were 
designed by Mr. Corliss himself, and were built at these works. The foundry is thoroughly 
equipped, and a large brass foundry is also under the same roof. A boiler-shop is also a 
portion of the works, where the Corliss patent vertical tubular water-leg boiler is made. 
The forge-shop, too, has an immense capacity. The Corliss engines are built in several 
different styles, varying in power from 50 to 2,000 horse-power. They are in general and 
successful use for manufacturing, water-works, and electric lighting, and all other purposes 
requiring close regulation and economy in fuel. 

The Corliss Safe Company have erected extensive, handsome and thoroughly equipped 
works for the manufacture of the Corliss safe, at Auburn, near Providence. William Corliss 
is the inventor and patentee, also the president and manager of the company. As a bank 
director, and while associated with his brother, George H. Corliss, in the manufacture 
of steam-engines, he first recognized the inability of square safes to resist the attack of 
burglars. A sphere affords the greatest possible strength and the greatest attainable capacity 
with a given thickness and weight of material. Mr. Corliss therefore devised a new safe, in 
spherical form. Imagine a spherical shell, say four feet outside diameter and three feet 
inside diameter. Cut away one third of this shell by a vertical plane, and you have left 

two thirds of a spherical shell, resembling the block 
letter C. Within this shell imagine a spherical shell, 
say three feet extreme diameter, mounted upon pivots or 
pintles at top and bottom. Assume that the edges ot 
the opening in the larger shell are provided with a series 
of steps accurately turned and ground, and that the in- 
terior shell has corresponding steps on its exterior edge : 
in practice these steps upon the inner sphere fit so closely 
the steps upon the outer sphere that there is left no 
opening. Suppose the inner sphere to be fitted with 
PROVIDENCE : CITY-HALL. shclvcs Or compartmcnts. By imparting to the inner 




THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 



775 




AUBURN : CORLISS SAFE COMPANY. 



sphere a slight back- 
ward movement the 
steps are disengaged, 
and it is then free to 
revolve on its pintles, 
bringing the shelves 
or compartments to 
the front. When the 
inner sphere is in its 
closed position, its 

steps firmly seated against the steps in the outer shell, it is immovably held in place by an 
expanding ring that is projected from the exterior surface of the inner sphere into a cor- 
responding groove upon the inner surface of the exterior shell. The mechanism that 
expands this locking ring and that imparts the forward and backward movement to the 
inner sphere is locked by combination locks of the most approved pattern. The inner 
sphere is in reality the safe, for it contains the valuables ; it also performs the function of 
a door, for its solid side is used as a stopper to the opening in the outer shell. This inner 
sphere being larger than the opening in the outer sphere, it is impossible to blow it out. The 
whole structure is made by casting chilled gun-metal over a heavy wrought-iron basket, 
and it is practically impenetrable. These safes are being rapidly introduced in all sections 
of the country, and more than 30 banks in Providence alone already have them in use. 

All Rhode-Islanders feel justly proud of the Gorham Manufacturing Company, which 
ranks at the head and front of all silverware manufacturers of the world, not only in value 
of output, but also in the superior quality of the ware, and in having the most magnificent 
establishment erected for this industry. Silverware for table service is now very extensively 
used ; and likewise plated ware of high grades, the tastes of the better class of people 
having risen beyond the early Britannia ware and the later inferior plated wares. This is not 
confined by any means to table service, but millinery ornaments, jewelry, vessels for ecclesi- 
astical use, household ornaments, trimmings for furniture, and countless other small articles 
are now being made of silver. Providence is famous for its number of large jewelers, 
silversmiths and silverware manufacturers ; but the Gorham Manufacturing Company has 
added fame from all the cultured countries, its wares being works of the most exquisite fine 
art. This company was organized in 1865, and now has a capital stock of $1,200,000. They 
have recently moved into their new factory at Elmwood, a suburb of Providence. This is one 
of the finest factories of any kind in this country. The plant covers 226,031 square feet. 
Apart from the large main building oi light 
brick is the foundry and the woodworking 
building. The main building is arranged so 
that the parts turning out germane works 
shall be near. The bullion and melting room 
is placed between the general manufacturing 
and the preparatory rooms. At these works 
1,200 hands are employed. The Gorham 
Manufacturing Company has ■ branches 
at Chicago, San Francisco and Paris. In 
New-York City there are two warehouses, 

at Broadway and Nineteenth Street and 9 Maiden Lane, where can be seen a display of solid 
silver and high-grade silver-plated ware that stands unrivalled in Europe or America. 

One of the most eminent establishments of Providence is that of the Brown & Sharpe 
Manufacturing Company, makers of iron castings, sewing-machines, machine-tools and 
small tools for machinists' use. This business was founded in 1833 by David Brown and 
his son, Joseph R, Brown; and in 1853 (David Brown having retired several years earlier) 




776 



/aNG'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




PROVIDENCE 



SHARPE MANUFACTURING COMPANY. 



Joseph R. Brown 
formed, with Luciau 
Sharpe, the firm of J. 
R. Brown & Sharpe. 
In 1868 this firm 
was incorporated as 
the Brown & Sharpe 
Manufacturing Com- 
pany. Their build- 
ings are exception- 
ally neat structures, modern in every particular, most methodically arranged and remark- 
ably well equipped. The total floor-space exceeds four acres (a growth from 1,800 square 
feet in 1853), and the machine-shops in particular are in all respects among the most notable 
on the continent. The manufacture of the Willcox & Gibbs sewing-machines was com- 
menced in 1S59, and the requirements of this work have had an important part in stimu- 
lating the invention and development of the milling and grinding machines, the cutters 
that can be sharpened without change of form, and the standard gauges and exact measur- 
ing instruments, which have established the reputation of the Brown & Sharpe Manufac- 
turing Company, and materially modified and improved machine-shop practice throughout 
the world. Recently this company has 
brought out heavier and larger machines 
than formerly, a number of them being 
suitable for use in steam-engine or loco- 
motive shops. At international exhibi- 
tions the Brown & Sharpe Manufac- 
turing Company has received leadin^ 
awards ; at Paris in 1867, Vienna in 187 •, 
Philadelphia in 1876, Paris in 1S78, and 
at Paris the Grand Prize in 1889. These 
works employ more than a thousand 
workmen, and are open to visitors. saylesville w f i f c sayles s cleachery 

Near Pawtucket stands one of the handsomest manufacturing plants in America, and 
the largest of its kind in the world, the Moshassuck Bleachery of W. F. & F. C. Sayles. 
It was founded in 1847, ^7 Wm. F. Sayles ; and has grown year by year until now it covers 
30 acres, with its bleachery, drying, and packing houses, and other offices. F. C. Sayles, 
a brother of the founder of the business, became a partner in 1863. The Sayles brothers 
have provided admirable church, school and home accommodations for their 1,500 opera- 
tives, and the village of Saylesville, on the bright Moshassuck River, is one of the best of 
the ideal industrial communities of New England. 

It was only 15 years ago that Charles Fletcher established in Providence what is to-day 
the most extensive single plant in the world for the production of worsted yarns and 
woolen goods. Mr. Fletcher is a native of England, where from an early age he was con- 

nectred with the manufacture of worsted yarns. 
His venture at Providence was at first modest, but 
it grew rapidly, and enlargements were soon neces- 
sary. Year by year this process has been re- 
peated, until now two large corporations, the 
Providence Worsted Mills and the National Wor- 
sted Mills, owe to him their paternity. The en- 
tire plant covers about ten acres, the chief build- 
ings being seven in number, all built of brick. 

PROVIDENCE : PROVIDENCE AND NATIONAL WORSTED rr., i_ • i ■ ^ r ^l. 1 i. • i.1, 1 i. ■. 

MILLS OF CHARLES FLETCHER. 1 hc mcchanical cquipmcnt 01 the plant is the latest 





THE STATE OE RHODE ISLAND. 



Ill 



improved and best known to modern manufacturers. It embraces the most costly machinery, 
both American and foreign, driven by eight large genuine Corliss engines. Every operation, 
from the receipt of the raw wool direct from the sheep-folds to the shipment of the finished 
fabric, is accomplished on the premises. Fully 2,500 operatives are employed, very many 
of whom have been enabled to erect comfortable homes from the fruits of their industry. 
Besides his success in the textile world, Charles Fletcher has met with a remarkable success 
in other ventures, notably in his sole ownership of the Narragansett Hotel. 

The famous Herreshoff Works, founded at Bristol in 1864, have made many of the 
swiftest torpedo-boats, launches and vidette boats in the world, for the American, English, 
French, Spanish, Peruvian and Russian Governments, and scores of beautiful yachts. 








KNIGHT'S MILLS. 



NATICK : B. B. & R. KNIGHT'S MILLS. 

Little Rhode Island is the seat of a firm about which not much is heard, or read in the 
public prints, but which nevertheless is the largest producer of cotton cloth, as a corpora- 
tion or a firm, in the world. It is B. B. & R. Knight, who have their headquarters at 
Providence, and their chief store at New York, and own and run 13 cotton-mills in Rhode 
Island and seven in Massachusetts, employing nearly 7,000 persons, and supporting 15 
villages. Their 
aggregate capacity 
is 11,000 looms 
and 405,000 spin- 
dles, which con- 
sume 53,000 bales 
of cotton yearly, 

and make nearly 200,000,000 yards of cotton cloth. There are 7,000 looms engaged on 
sheetings, shirtings, cambrics, twills, and print cloths ; and 4,500 looms make the famous 
cloth, "The Fruit of the Loom," used everywhere for shirtings and sheetings. The firm 
does its own bleaching. This colossal business was founded in 1847, by Robert Knight, at 
one time a clerk in the Pontiac Mill, which he afterwards leased, and later purchased. He 
was joined in 1852 by his brother, B. B. Knight ; and since that date the firm has gone for- 
ward, adding mill after mill to its vast holdings ; the two largest being at Natick and River 
Point (R. I.). They also own the controlling interest in the Cranston Bleaching, Dyeing 

& Printing Company. 

The word "calico" is derived from 
the name of the town Calicut, in 
India, where large quantities of calico 
were made and shipped to Europe. 
The word in England signifies white 
cotton cloth. The same grade of 
cloth is used in this country for 
prints, and became known as printed 
calico, and later as calico. Large 
establishments for calico-printing are 
found in New England and the Mid- 
dle States. Massachusetts and Rhode 
Island turn out the greatest quantity. 
The American output is fully as large 




PAWTUCKET : DUNNELL MANUFACTURIMG CO. 



77$ KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

as the European. The consumption of calico in the United States is greater in proportion 
to the population than that of any country in the world. The production of prints in New 
England exceeds 300,000,000 yards. The Bunnell Manufacturing Company, of Providence 
and Pawtucket, incorporated in 1853, are among the largest calico-printers. They turn out 
all styles and grades of printed calico, on orders only ; and are doing a very large business, 
since special prints are always in demand. They also have departments especially equipped 
for dyeing piece goods and thefinishingof fancy white goods. In 1836 the old Franklin Print 
Works passed into the possession of Jacob Bunnell & Co., and the trade has grown until 
now its perfectly equipped works employ 500 operatives, with a capacity for finishing 
50,000,000 yards of cloth yearly. Jacob Bunnell died in 1886, and his son, W. W. Bunnell, 
is now treasurer of the company, Thomas L. Bunnell being its president. 

The Providence Steam & Gas Pipe Company was established 40 years ago, and incor- 
porated in 1865. It has won a high reputation for all work pertaining to the use of steam, 
water, gas and air, in manufacturing establishments, and for the reliable character of all 
fittings, material and apparatus employed. The company makes a specialty of equipping 
factories and other establishments with apparatus for extinguishing fires. It inaugurated 
the now celebrated system of automatic fire-extinguishers. At first it adopted and improved 
the so-called Parmelee sprinkler, which had been employed to a limited extent under the 
supervision of its inventor, and was quite largely introduced into factories, as well as into 
a few dry-goods and other warehouses. Gradually, how- 
ever, in its practical workings certain structural limitations 
in its efficiency were revealed, which led to the invention by 
Frederick Grinnell of a successful sprinkler of a radically 
different type. The Grinnell Sensitive Automatic Sprinkler 
not only completely superseded all preceding devices, but 
none of all of the later devices has ever made successful 
competition with it. From its first introduction the Grin- 
nell apparatus has been an assured success. It has operated 
effectually in more than 800 actual fires, with no failures. 
These fires now average 15 monthly, with a constantly 
increasing ratio. Upon this device hinges an epoch remark- 
able in the history of fire protection and of the business of underwriting, for the insurance 
companies make an important reduction wherever it is introduced. The great buildings of 
the Matthews-Northrup Co., of Buffalo, wherein " King's Handbook of the United States" 
was made, were saved from destruction by the powerful work of the Grinnell apparatus. 

Bomesticated horses compelled to move draught-burdens beyond their own weight, or 
to attain gaits above their voluntary speed, on hardened roads, would speedily become dis- 
abled by worn hoofs if it were not for the skillful devices of modern farriers, in preparing 
iron plates for the protection of their hoofs. The Rhode-Island Horse-Shoe Company, in 
its works at Valley Falls, does an immense and profitable business in manufacturing a 
variety of shoes for horses and mules, the different kinds being adapted to the several seasons 
and the many services to which such animals are put. It has been in successful operation 
for many years, and its stock, with a par value of $100, is now said to be worth f 1,000 a 

share. Many very in- 
genious machines are in 
use here, to produce varie- 
ties of horse-shoes that 
exemplify the best ideas 
of modern farriery ; and 
> the products of the works 

are sent to all parts of the contment. The main offices are at Providence. F. W. Carpenter 
is president ; C. H. Perkins, vice-president ; and Richard W. Comstock, secretary. 




PROVIDE\Ce : 
PROVIDENCE STEAM & GAS PIPE CO. 




PAWTUCKET 



THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 



779 




PROVIDENCE 



HIP WINDLASS CO. 



;|i' ifWTpgfisji 



ii!!'ii<fflffl 




"Given all things to ships as they should 
be, then all ships should return," said a veteran 
ship captain who never lost a vessel. One of 
the vital equipments of a ship is the windlass ; 
and those manufactured by the American Ship 
Windlass Company, of Providence, have gained 
such a reputation that 90 per cent, of the best 
American vessels have them. The steamships 
of the Morgan, Clyde and Mallory Lines use 
them, and so also do the war-vessels of the United-States Navy, like the Baltimore, Philadel- 
phia, Boston, Atlanta, and Chicago. A breadth of view extending outside their own establish- 
ment has given to this company control of a large number of inventions very valuable to the 
shipping interest. A noteworthy fact about this establishment is that Frank S. Manton, its 
head, has been connected with it for more than a third of a century. Most of this time 
he has been the business agent and manager; and the success of the American Ship Wind- 
lass Company is largely due to his able supervision and direction of affairs. 

What is waste to one person is a fortune to another, and a marked example of this is 
shown in one of the unique industries of Providence, that 
of the refining and smelting of precious metals, as done 
by John Austin & Son. It was during the civil war that 
this industry was established. The specialty of the firm, 
and the one in which it stands at the head in this country, 
is that of the smelting of jewelers' sweepings, binders' cot- 
ton waste, platers' washings, and similar refuse. All this 
a few years ago was absolutely waste material. Through 
the process followed in these works a large amount of this 
otherwise useless material is absolved of its impurities, 
and its valuable components extracted. This industry was started in a small way, but so 
important has it proved to many artisans throughout the country that every year it has in- 
creased, until now this firm has amassed a great fortune, and attained a national reputation. 
It is somewhat remarkable that although the house has been so successful, and although 
they employ more than 20 men, the scientific parts of the work of refining and smelting 
are invariably performed by the Messrs. Austin themselves. Three large buildings and part 

of another are now occupied by the business. 

The Rhode-Island Card Board Company of Paw- 
tucket is the oldest house engaged in this branch 
of manufacture in the country, and dates its origin 
from the year 1844. During the period of nearly 
half a century since then it has had a career of un- 
interrupted success. The products include every 
kind of card board for printers and photographers, 
and stock for lithographers' use, in many grades 
and tints. The four-story brick building occupied 
by the company is supplied with valuable and in- 
genious labor-saving machinery, and 75 operatives 
are constantly employed in the manufacture, build- 
ing up layers of paper into cardboard, two-ply, three-ply, and four-ply. The product varies 
from the lightest and most delicate and flexible grades up to material almost as thick and 
strong as boards, and capable of great endurance. The president of the Rhode-Island Card 
Board Company is Lowell Emerson, and the treasurer is Walter H. Stearns. 

The National India-Rubber Company has an immense plant at Bristol, which has em- 
ployed 1,300 operatives, and produced $2,500,000 worth of goods in a year. 



PROVIDENCE JOHN AUSTIN i SON 




PAWTUCKET : RHODE-ISLAND CARD BOARD CO. 



78o 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




Another characteristic and prosperous industry 
of Rhode Island is the manufacture of phosphatic 
preparations for culinary and medicinal purposes, 
in the Rumford Chemical Works, at Rumford and 
Providence. These valuable and widely used arti- 
cles were devised by Prof. E. N. Horsford of Cam- 
bridge (Mass.), formerly Rumford Professor of 
Chemistry in Harvard University, and now presi 
dent of the company, which derives its name from 
the professorship and its honored founder. In 1856 
Prof. Horsford conceived the idea of restoring to 
bread, in the form of a baking-powder, the nutritious phosphates 
of which flour is deprived in the process of bolting He devised 
a dry, white and acid powder, and the works weie established to 
manufacture this product. It is combined with the proper ma- 
terials, under the several names of Horsford's Baking Powder, Horsford's Bread Prepa- 
ration, and Rumford Yeast Powder. Another production is Horsford's Acid Phosphate, now 
used by physicians in almost every country, and "Phosa," a nutritious and palatable drink. 
Another establishment that for over half a century has brought world-wide fame to 
Rhode Island is the house of Perry Davis & Son, the originators and makers of the Perry 
Davis Pain-killer. In 1840 Dr. Perry Davis produced a prep- 
aration that he knew would immediately alleviate pain ; and 
from that time on he and his successors have spent hundreds 
of thousands of dollars in making known its virtues to the 
people of all lands. Wherever one goes, the world over, he 
can readily obtain the Pain-killer, a fact which is abundant 
evidence of its value. There is no country in the world to 
which these goods are not constantly being sent. The printed 
matter of the house is issued in 29 different languages ; and 
the Pain-killer is to be found in millions of houses. One of 
the early causes of its success was the fact that Perry Davis 
was an ordained Baptist clergyman, serving as an itinerant 
preacher. As fast as he earned money he contributed liberally to foreign missions, and 
the missionaries soon came to reciprocate by helping him to introduce the Pain-killer. For- 
eign missionaries are now its warmest endorsers, particularly for incipient cases of cholera. 
The Rhode-Island State Agricultural Experiment Station was opened on a farm of 140 
acres, at Kingston, in 1888, and receives $15,000 yearly from the United States. Rhode 
Island erected the granite building for laboratory and offices. Four bulletins are issued 
yearly, for free circulation among farmers and newspapers. The State Agricultural School, 
on the same domain, has a granite College Hall, a veterinary hospital and other new build- 
ings. It was opened in 1890, and has nine instructors and 54 students, who supplement 
class-room work with study in the laboratories, shops and fields. The State erected the 
buildings, and maintains the school. The Commonwealth also has many free scholarships 
in Brown University, to which it gave the National Agricultural grant of 1862, amounting 
to §50,000. More than 40 students are kept on this foundation. 

Rhode Island wholly or partly supports 50 curable insane persons at the Butler Hos- 
pital, a private asylum at Providence, whose aim is "to provide suitably for persons of 
refinement." The yearly payment for each State patient is $280. The Rhode-Island 
Soldiers' Home was opened in 189 1, on a spacious farm near Bristol, and has 66 inmates. 

The Dorr Rebellion of 1843 "^^^ caused by the dissatisfaction of the suffrage party with 
the old colonial charter, which disfranchised all but property-owners. Dorr endeavored 
to seize the arsenal, but was driven away, and afterwards dispersed by United-States forces. 




PROVIDENCE : PERRY DAV 




5,513 

35 

I,i8i 

2, 194 

220 

11,472 



H15T0RY. 

About 3,ooo Indians 
lived in South Carolina 
when the first settlers ar- 
rived. The mountain-dwel- 
ling Cherokees numbered 
i,ooo; and the Catawbas, 
between Cheraw and York- 
ville, i,6oo. The Yamas- 
sees, Sewees, Congarees, 
Winyaws, Waccamaws, and other tribes were unimportant. 
There were more than a score of these little clans, each 
with its distinct language. About 13 1 Catawbas now dwell 
in the State. The Saludas migrated to Pennsylvania ; the 
Tuscaroras, to New York ; and the Yamassees to Florida. 
The Sewees weie lost at sea, having, after long delibera- 
tion, started in a fleet of canoes, to make a commercial 
voyage to England. 

The first European adventurers who reached the South- 
Carolina shores were a group of Spanish slave-hunters from 
Hispaniola, who (in 1520) landed on St. Helena and 
claimed the country for Spain. They seized 70 natives, to 
be sold into slavery, but most of these captives preferred 
and welcomed death. In 1523 the Emperor Charles V. 
commissioned Vazquez de Ayllon to conquer this land, 
but the expedition came to grief, and 500 Spanish soldiers 
died. In 1562 Ribault's vessels arrived on the coast, bear- 
ing a gallant band of Huguenots, sent out by Admiral Col- 
igny. On the site of Beaufort they built the defences of 
Charles Fort (Arx Carolina), where 26 men stayed for a year, 
and then returned to France. Ribault named this noble 
haven Port Royal, saying : "Wee stroke our sailes and cast 
anker. The greatest shippes of France, yea, the argosies of 
Venice, may enter in there." 

King Charles II. granted Carolina to the lords-proprie- 
tors in 1663; and seven years later their little fleet reached Beaufort. Finding this site 
perilously near the truculent Spaniards of Florida, the colonists moved to the Ashley River, 
and founded Charles Town. The little colony had to fight the Indians on one side, and on 



STATISTICS. 



Settled at Charleston 

Settled in 1670 

Founded by . . . Englishmen. 

One of the Original 13 States. 

I'opulation in it6o, . . . 703,708 

In 1870, 705,606 

In 1880, 995,577 

American-born, . . . 7,891 
Foreign-born, .... 7,686 

Males, 490,408 

Females, ^05,169 

In 1890 (U. S. Cefisus), . 1,151,149 
White (1890), .... 458,454 
Colored {1890), , . . . 692,503 

Population to the square mile, 33.0 

Voting Population, . . . 205,789 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 13,736 
Vote for Cleveland (iS* 8), 65,825 

Net State Debt, . . $6,473,476.38 

Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), , $132,000,000 

Area (square miles), . . . 30,570 

U. S. Representatives (1893) 

Militia (Disciplined), . . 

Counties 

Post-offices, 

Railroads (miles), .... 

Vessels 

Tonnage, 

Manufactures (yearlj), . $16,738,008 

Operatives, 22,128 

Yearly Wages, . . . S-,836,289 

Farm Land (in acres), . 13,535,237 
Farm-I.and Values, . ,$68,677,482 
Farm Products (yearly) $.(1,669,749 

Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 136,358 

Newspapers, 126 

Latitude, . . 32''4'3o" to 35"'l2' N. 

Longitude, . . 78''25' to 83<'i9' W. 

Temperature, .... ii^'toio-io 

Mean Temperature (Columbia), 62° 



TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Charleston, 54,955 

Columbia I5,3'i3 

Greenville 8,607 

Spartanburg, 5,544 

Sumter, 3,865 

Beaufort, 3,587 

Camden, 3,533 

Florence, 3,''95 

Newberry, 3,020 

Anderson, 3,oi8 



782 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SPARTANBURG : 
COWPENS MONUMENT. 



the other the Spaniards from Florida, whose galleys plundered the Sea Islands, destroyed 
Port Royal and attacked Charleston. For some years the Carolinas were governed under 
John Locke's fantastical Fundamental Constitutions, with their palatines, landgraves, cas- 
siques and barons. The cessation of the obnoxious Proprietary government, 
and the formal division of Carolina into North and South, occurred in 1729 
(they had been under practically different governments since 1690). The 
name "South Carolina," appears in the Statutes at Large in 1696. 

The immigrants of the next few decades included a Dutch colony 
from New Amsterdam, on John's Island ; a Congregational church 
from Dorchester, Mass., to Dorchester, S. C. ; 370 Swiss at Purys- 
burg ; bands of Scotch Covenanters, from County Down, in Williams- 
burg ; Germanic tribes, in Orangeburg ; Welshmen, on the Pee Dee ; 
Scottish Highlander rebels, in the hill-country ; Irish Quakers, at 
Camden ; French Huguenots, at New Bordeaux ; hundreds of Penn- 
sylvanians and Virginians, seeking safety after Braddock's defeat ; 
and many cargoes of African slaves, brought into Charleston. 

The Revolution became a bitter civil war in South Carolina, for 
many of her people were rancorous Tories, who devastated the 
homes of the patriots without mercy, under the protection of British armies. But in the 
deep swamps Marion and Sumter and other heroic leaders assembled efficient partisan 
forces of Carolinians, and kept up an unceasing warfare against the King's forces. In 1776 
Sir Peter Parker and a powerful fleet attacked the palmetto fort on Sullivan's Island, near 
Charleston, and was beaten off by the Second and Third South-Carolina Regiments, with 
great loss. Four years later, Sir Henry Clinton captured the town, by siege, and with it 
Gen. Lincoln's army, after which the State was over-run and garrisoned by the Royalists. 
-- -r- - ■ ^ ^"7^ Gates advanced south from Virginia, with 3,663 

Americans, and Cornwallis shattered his army 
at Camden, and took all his guns; and a year 

,1-, 7T^.L..'.-"„^, v,„[ later (1781) he defeated Gen. Greene, near the 

""' ' '"""'iii' ,i,,M ,.,,.. ,. same place, but suffered such losses that he 

was compelled to retreat. Then the local 

militia reduced the British forts at Orangeburg, 

Granby, Augusta, Georgetown and Ninety-six. 

CHARLESTON HARBOR : FORT SUMTER. I" Scptcmbcr z. sharp battle was fought at 

Eutaw Springs, and the Royal troops retired to Charleston, which was finally evacuated by 

Gen. Leslie, December 14th, 1782, and occupied by Wayne's Pennsylvanians. 

In 1832 the Convention at Columbia pronounced the United-States tariff "null, void, 
and no law, nor binding on this State, its officers or citizens," adding that if the tariff should 
be forced upon her, South Carolina would leave the Union. Gov. Hayne and the General 
Assembly ratified this Nullification Ordinance, whereupon President Jackson proclaimed 
nullification to be treason, and sent Gen. Scott to Charleston. 

As soon as Lincoln was elected President, South 
Carolina called a convention, which (December 20th, 
i860) declared that the Union between her and the 
other States was dissolved. The same week, Maj. 
Anderson, commanding the United-States troops at 
Charleston, transferred his forces to Fort Sumter, 
which was bombarded by the investing Confederate 
batteries, April 12-13, ^'^^ compelled to surrender. 
At one time South Carolina had 44,000 men in the 
Confederate armies, her entire enlistments reaching 
60,000. Of these, 12,000 died in the service. The 




CHARLESTON : RESIDENCES ON THE BATTERY. 



THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. -g^ 

first return of the Stars and Stripes to South Carolina came as early as November, l86i, 

when Flag-Officer DuPont and 50 vessels bombarded the Confederate forts at Port Royal, 

which were afterwards held throughout the war, by Federal forces. An ineffectual attempt 

_ I was made to seal up Charleston harbor by sinking in its outer channels 

- ^^ condemned whaling-ships laden with stones. 

' Wir ' ^^ April, 1863, Rear- Admiral DuPont attacked the Charleston 

'' '/<3L±"' ''■'/'' forts with seven ironclads, and suffered a serious repulse. A few weeks 

.{^§? ' '- later, Gen. Gillmore began the siege of Charleston, advancing by Fol- 

-V jiraL .' ly and Morris Islands ; reducing Battery Gregg and Fort Wagner 

■^^^KgaM ' Ml mpeL||^. by parallels, after direct assaults had failed ; and then from their 

■^ ^^^ ^ S^i=^^^^ ^^ ramparts raining shot and shell on the city for weeks. In February, 

^^^^S^^^^^^^^fe 1865, Gen. Sherman marched northward from Savannah with his 

,-^^^' -- -^^ ^^ great army, occupying Branchville, Columbia, Camden, Cheraw, 

"•gy^ ^y^- ^ ^i« ^^'^ other towns. Gen. Hardee evacuated Charleston, and a 

e-^-v^ ^ ^^^ ^, National brigade occupied it. 

''"^^^i^'i- ''"''' The great earthquake in Charleston, August 31, 1886, de- 

CHARLESTON : stroycd $5,000,000 in property, and many lives. 

JASPER MONUMENT. South Carolina has always been distinguished for the courage 

and vigor of its counsels and actions in political affairs, and has in many regards stood as 

the intellectual leader of the South. Thousands of people remember, with Trescot ; "The 

love of South Carolina, the solemn music of the wind in her pine forests, the glory of the 

sunlight on her broad marshes, the glow of the great ocean as it clasps her beautiful coasts." 

The Name of the State has an origin similar to that of North Carolina. The pet name 

is The Palmetto State, from the palmetto tree on the seal of the commonwealth. 

The Arms of South Carolina show a palmetto tree, and a female figure representing 
Faith. The mottos are Animis Opibusqiie Parati (" Prepared in mind and resources") and 
Dum Spiro Spero ("While I breathe, I hope"). 

The Governors have been : Chas. Pinckney, 1789-92, 1796-8, and 1806-8 ; A. Van- 
derhorst, 1792-4; Wm. Moultrie, 1794-6; Edward Rutledge, 1798-1800; John Drayton, 
1800-2; J. B. Richardson, 1802-4; Paul Hamilton, 1804-6; John Drayton, 1808-10; 
Henry Middleton, 1810-12 ; Jos. Alston, 1812-14; D. R. Williams, 1814-16 ; Andrew 
Pickens, 1816-18 ; John Geddes, 1818-20; Thos. Bennett, 1 820-2 ; J.L.Wilson, 1822-4; 
R.J. Manning, 1824-6; John Taylor, 1826-8; S. D. Miller, J828-30; J. Hamilton, 
1830-2; R. Y. Hayne, 1832-4; Geo. McDuffie, 1834-6; Pierce M. Butler, 1836-8; 
Patrick Noble, 1S38-40; J. P. Richardson, 1840-2; J. H. Hammond, 1842-4; W^m. 
Aiken, 1844-6; David Johnson, 1846-8; W. B. Seabrook, 1848-50; John H. Means, 
1850-2; J. L. Manning, 1852-4; J. H. Adams, 1 854-6 ; R. F. W. Alston, 1856-8; W. 
H. Gist, 1858-60; F. W. Pickens, 1860-2; M. L. Bonham, 1862-4; A. G. Magrath, 
1864-5; Jas. L. Orr, 1865-8; R. K. Scott, 1868-72; F. J. Moses, Jr., 1872-5; D. H. 
Chamberlain, 1875-7; Wade Hampton, 1877-8; W. D. Simpson, 1878-80; Johnson 
Hagood, 1880-2; Hugh S. Thompson, 1882-6; J. P. Richardson, 1886-90; and Ben R. 
Tillman, 1890-2. 

Descriptive. — South Carolina forms an isosceles triangle, with the coast for the base, 
and the sides, bounding on North Carolina and Georgia, meeting on the crest of the Blue 
Ridge. The low country extends inland for 100 miles, to the crystalline rocks, where the 
up-country begins. The light-colored sandy loam, the still rivers, the magnolias and long- 
leaf pines and trailing gray mosses of the one are sharply contrasted with the red-clay hills 
and rapid streams and oak forests of the other ; and as great a difference is perceived in the 
manners and characters of their populations. The lowlanders were the dutiful subjects of 
the lords-proprietors, and came mainlj' from Europe, with their outposts at Hamburg, Col- 
umbia, Camden and Cheraw, and their communications by boat along the innumerable 
sounds 'and inlets of the coast. The Upper-Carolinians were almost exclusively hardy 



784 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITIiD SVAl'ES. 




frontiersmen from Pennsylvania and Virginia, who came down bv 
wagons along the troughs of the Blue Ridge, and for over a cen 
tury kept up overland trade with their old homes. 

The Sea Islands lie south of the Santee, and mainly off Port Royal, 
covering 800 square miles, bordered by 600 square miles of low salt- 
marshes. They face the sea with beaches of snowy whiteness, b( 
yond which tower dark green pines, moss-draped live-oaks, and 
lone palmettos, rising from jungles of myrtles and pines. The coast 
extends 190 miles, from the Savannah River to Little River. North 
of Winyaw Bay it is a continuous beach of firm gray sand, sometime s 
for 20 miles without a break. South of Winyaw a network of sounds 
and inlets extends, between and behind the Sea Islands, as far as 
Florida, and steamboat lines (especially between Charleston and 
Savannah) follow this sheltered inside route. The Lower Pine 01 
Savannah Region lies next inland, with a width of 50 miles, in 
eluding the rice-fields and the turpentine country and cattle-ranges. 

The lowland region also bears oranges, figs and olives, and vast quantities of wild grapes. 
The Upper Pine Belt, Central Cotton Belt, or Middle Country, is 20 miles wide, with light 
sandy loam, great swamps, and rolling forests of long-leaf pine, oak and hickory. In this 
region are Orangeburg and Sumter. The Red Hills, 300 to 600 feet above the sea, are com- 
posed of red clay and sand, overgrown with oak and hickory, and including the fertile 
ridge-lands of Edgefield and the High Hills of Santee. The Sand Hills, or Pine Barrens, 
run northeast across the State, from Augusta to Cheraw, 155 miles, with a width of from 
20 to 30 miles, and an area of 2,400 square miles. Aiken, Columbia, Camden and Cheraw 
stand in this belt. In some localities the hills are of dazzling white sand, and elsewhere 
great forests of long-leaf pine sweep over the ridges. More than half of the population is 
colored ; and only a tenth of the country has been cultivated. 

The Piedmont region, 400 to 800 feet high, has the cold gray slate lands, gray granite 
soils, red hornblende lands, and flatwoods meadow, or black-jack lands. Here stand the 
towns of Abbeville, Winnsboro, Greenville, Newberry and Spartanburg. 

The Alpine region, 114 miles long and from eight to 21 miles wide, is a rolling table- 
land, 1,000 to 1,500 feet high, ascending to the Saluda Mountains, along whose summits 
the State boundary runs for 50 miles. The highlands culminate in Mount Pinnacle, 3,436 
feet high, near Pickens Court House. This is a land of noble scenery, bracing and healthy 
climate, luxuriant soil, clear streams and mineral springs. The rivers pour down from 

the Blue Ridge to their falls at the 
end of the crystalline rocks, and 
then pass slowly on to the sea. The 
Savannah is navigable to Hamburg, 
158 miles, and many small boats de- 
scend it from Anderson ville, 100 
miles higher up. The Santee is 
navigated by steamers for its whole 
length of 184 miles. The Congaree 
may be ascended to Granby, two miles below Columbia; and the Wateree, to Camden. The 
Saluda, Broad and Catawba rivers are traversed by small boats, even up into the Blue Ridge, 
their rapids being overcome by many miles of canals and locks. Steamboats go up the 
Great Pee Dee to Cheraw, 120 miles; and other streams of the northeast are navigable. 
The fisheries employ 1,000 men. The Ashley and Cooper Rivers enter Charleston harbor, 
which is surrounded by the low Sea Islands, and by marshes covered at high tide. Steamboats 
run regularly from Charleston to Columbia, 250 miles ; to Georgetown and Cheraw, 300 
miles ; and through the creeks to Beaufort, Port Royal and Savannah. The fishermen are 




CHARLESTON : CALHOUN STATUE AND CITADEL, ON MARION SQUARE. 



THE STATE OE SOUTH CAROLINA. 



785 




CHARLESTON I ST. -PAUL'S CHURCH. 




COLUMBIA : SOUTH-CAROLINA UNIVERSITY 



chiefly negroes, about Charleston and Winyaw Bay. 
The rivers have been stocked with valuable food- 
fish. South Carolina leads all the States in shrimp, 
with a yearly catch of 18,000 bushels. 

The Climate resembles that of southern 
Europe, with warm and dry winters and a prevail- 
ing equability. The sea-breezes refresh the shore- 
counties, and the up-country is cooled from the 
Blue Ridge, where much snow falls in winter. The 
rice-lands are uninhabitable by whites in summer, 
although the negroes can endure their climate. The 
Sea Islands have a relatively delightful summer climate, whence many of the planters bring 
their families here. The climate of the sand-hills is dry, tonic and stimulating, free from 
malaria, and full of sunshine, with prevailing south and south-west winds, and rare and 
transient snows or fogs. The waters 
are pure and transparent ; and the 
air is at once free from bleakness 
and from debilitating influences. 
The mean temperature of Aiken in 
winter is 46.4°, and in spring 
63.4°, and the far -surrounding 
pine-forests fill the air with heal- 
ing terebinthine perfumes. For 
many years this has been one of the great refuges for consumptives and rheumatics, and 
thousands of- others frequent the locality. 

Farming'. — South Carolina is mainly an agricultural State, and her farm-products 
reach nearly $50,000,000 yearly, including the cereals, hay and rice, tobacco and cotton. 
The farms were valued in 1S60 at $146,000,000, and in 
1870 at only $47,000,000. 70 per cent, of the laborers are 
colored. 61 per cent, of the colored women and children, 
and 23 of the whites, work on the farms. The fields furnish 
abundant crops of vegetables and berries, including vast quan- 
tities of strawberries for the North ; the orchards produce 
oranges, lemons, olives, pomegranates, figs, peaches, apples, 
quinces, and other delicious fruits; and the gardens are odor- 
ous and brilliant with Cherokee roses, jessamines, camelias, 
hyacinths, and hundreds of other flowers. Cotton has been raised here ever since the 
colony came into being. Its export began about a century ago. The output in i860 
was 353,412 bales, valued at $14,000,000 ; and after a sharp fall to 1870, it rose again, m 
1880, to 516,490 bales, of 475 pounds each, 
and in 1887 to 605,000 bales, valued at $24,- 
000,000, overhalf the agricultural output of the 
State. Sea-Island cotton was first raised in 
1790, at Hilton Head, and in 1887 reached an 
output of 15,000,000 pounds of long-staple, 
since which it has been falling off. Most of 
the island plantations are owned or rented by 
colored men. The Edisto-Island cotton is the 
best in the world, and has brought 20 times 
as much a pound as any other. 

Rice culture began here in 1693, from seed 
brought from Madagascar, by a vessel which 




ORANGEBURG CLAFLIN UNIVERSITY 




RICE FIELDS. 



786 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CHARLESTON : ORPHAN ASYLUM. 



put into Charleston in distress; and 60 years later the col- 
ony exported over 10,000 barrels annually. In 1850 the 
crop exceeded 256,000 tierces ; but by 1884 it had fallen 
to 34,000. In 1887 it amounted to 70,000,000 pounds, 
valued at $1,400,000. Carolina rice is the best in the 
world, and is carefully prepared here, by ingenious pro- 
cesses. This State is the leading one in growing rice, 
and its vast tidal marshes afford capital opportunities 
for its extension. When gathered it is covered with 
a thick hull, know as the paddy. The rice then has to go through a pounding operation, 
and when the paddy is broken off it passes through the second stage. Although the shell is 
removed, the grains of rice are covered with a very fine powder, which has to be brushed 
off. The brushing machine is of a peculiar construction. Rotary brushes catch up the rice, 
sweep the dust from it, and throw the grains, all cleaned, into a hopper, through which it is 
fed to sacks and barrels. Originally this was done by hand, but the great demand for do- 
mestic rice necessitated the introduction of machinery. Much of the imported rice is treated 
in this way in New- York City, but the domestic rice is cleaned in the vicinity of the mill. 
Charleston is the principal receiving point for the rice of the South Atlantic States; and the 
West Point Mill Co. of Charleston operates the largest rice-mill in the United States. The 
plant is located in the western part of Charleston, 
and covers about 16 acres of land. The mill build 
ing is of brick, and is three stories in height, and 
there are four warehouses for the storage of stock. 
About 35 hands are employed and the annual pay 
roll approximates $30,000. The output last year 
amounted to 300,000 barrels of clean rice and rice 
flour. The waste in bulk is considerable, as the 
above output amounted to 313,000 barrels of rough 
rice or paddy. The West Point Rice- Mill product, 
aside from that sold from the main office, is handled chahllsiun; wtsi-h-uiNi mill uu. 

by Dan. Talmage's Sons, the representative mill-brokerage house of this country. 

The State raises yearly 18,000,000 bushels of corn, and 4,000,000 of oats. The 200 
turpentine-stills in the lowlands employ 7,000 men, with a yearly yield of $3,000,000, 
being one third of the American output. The lumber product is $6,000,000 yearly, em- 
ploying 6,000 persons. The live-stock is valued at $20,000,000, and profit is found in 
dairying and in raising cattle for beef. 

Minerals. — Gold has been mined in sixty places, before the war, and two of the mines 
produced over $1,000,000 each. There are now four mines, mainly in Lancaster County, 
with 100 miners, and a yearly product of $100,000. Silver, lead, copper and graphite 
appear in small quantities, and inexhaustible supplies of iron ores. White and colored 
marbles, blue and white granites, manganese, barytes, asbestos, soapstone, corundum, mica, 

. _ ochre, kaolin and whetstones abound in 

the Piedmont region. In the Aiken 

neighborhood inexhaustible deposits of 

kaolin are found and mined, and several 

factories have been put into operation. 

From this mineral the finest Sevres china 

and porcelain can be made, as well as the 

commoner and more useful earthenwares. 

The river-beds of South Carolina now produce 231,000 tons of phosphate rock in a 

year, and the land-beds nearly 400,000 tons, and the industry is continually increasing. 

Nearly half of this output is shipped away. It brings from $3. 50 to $9. 50 a ton. The 





CHARLESTON ; CITY HOSPITAL. 



THE STATE OE SOUTH CAROLINA. 



787 




i MANUFACTURING CO. 



State receives a royalty on phosphate rock from the beds of streams. The land rock is 
crushed by 40 local factories into fertilizing material. Beaufort ships more than half the 

phosphate, and Charleston the rest. 

The use of commercial fertilizers 
by farmers has now become general, 
and the variety most universally used 
is phosphate of lime. The Charles- 
ton (S. C.) Mining & Manufacturing 
Company owns the largest land phos- 
phate mines in the world. The 
company was organized in 1867 ; and 
was the pioneer to develop the phosphates in South Carolina. The capital is $1,000,000 ; 
and its stock is worth double its par value. About 16,000 acres of land, containing the 
richest deposits of available phosphate in the State, are owned by them. The phosphate is of 
nodular formation, and is found in a well-defined stratum of from one to three feet thick, at an 
average depth of five feet. The works of the company, on Ashley River, 15 miles from 
Charleston, have an average daily capacity of 300 tons; the drying-bins hold about 15,000 
tons of kiln-dried phosphate. They have their own machine, carpenter and blacksmith 
shops, where their cars are built, and their 
repairing done. Seven miles of railway 
penetrate their mining fields, and a number 
of small locomotiyes, with their trains, 
draw the phosphate to the washers. About 
1,000 hands are employed in the various 
operations of the company. The mines 
are worked without cessation throughout 
the year, and at the present rate of produc- 
tion, the supply will last over a hundred 
years. The total annual output of South-Carolina phosphates is about 500,000 tons, and 
is shipped to all parts of the world. Of this amount, the Charleston (S. C.) Mining & 
Manufacturing Company ships over 100,000 tons. The main office of the company is in 
Philadelphia (Pa.), where its chief stockholders reside. 

Government. — The governor and executive officers are elected every two years. The 
General Assembly includes 35 four-year senators and 124 two-year representatives. The Su- 
preme Court has three justices, appointed for six years ; and there are criminal, probate and 
justices' courts. The State House is built of cyclopean blocks of local granite. It was be- 
gun in 1850, and has cost above $2,000,000, although not nearly finished. The State 
Volunteer Troops include 71 companies, in three regiments 
and four battalions of infantry, two regiments and three 
battalions of cavalry, and three batteries, besides a sea- 
coast battalion. The National Guard has 18 companies. All 
of these soldiers wear the uniform of the United- States 
Army, furnished by the Government. The State pays 
pensions to 600 disabled Confederate veterans, and 1,500 
widows of those killed in the service. The Penitentiary, 
at Columbia, has 900 prisoners, nearly all negroes, and 
is self-supporting, the convicts working in the phosphate mines and prison shoe-shops. The 
Lunatic Asylum, at Columbia, has 800 inmates. The Institution for the Education of 
the Blind, Deaf and Dumb, at Cedar Springs, has loo inmates. 

Education is not well supported, especially in the free schools, but much progress has 
been made since 1870, and several of the cities now have efficient graded schools. In the 
country, the appropriations are small, and the yearly sessions have been reduced to less than 




CHARLESTON 



-MICHAEL'S CHURCH. 




CHARLESTON : CENTRE MARKET. 




788 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

four months. South-Carolina College was opened in 1S04, as a State institution, and in 
1888 changed its name to South-Carolina University. Lieber and Cooper were among its 
professors ; and in the roll of its 2,000 graduates were Legare, McDuffie, Preston, 22 State 
governors, 60 congressmen, five bishops, and 33 judges and chancellors. This noble old insti- 
tution occupies an extensive campus at Columbia, where great trees overshadow many dig- 
nified and stately buildings. The College of Charleston dates from 1785, and has 400 gradu- 
ates, including the poet Hayne, the diplomat Trescot, and De Bow, of the Reviezu. The 
South-Carolina Military Academy, in the Citadel at Charleston, is maintained by the State. 
It was founded half a century ago, as a child of 
West Point, and has graduated many distinguished 
military officers, civil engineers, and other notables. 
In 1854 the Methodist Episcopal Church, South, 
opened Wofford College, at Spartanburg. It now 
has ten professors and 60 students. Of almost the 
same size is Newberry College, founded by the 
Lutherans in 1858. Somewhat smaller is Furman 
University, founded by the Baptists, at Greenville 

in 185 1 ; and Adger College, at Walhalla, founded Charleston: custom house. 

by the Presbyterians, in 1877. Erskine College, at Due West, belongs to the Associate 
Reformed Presbyterians. The crown of the great system of education for the colored 
people is Claflin University, at Orangeburg, founded by the benevolence of the Hon. Lee 
Claflin and the Hon. Wm. Claflin, of Boston (Mass.), in 1869, and now teaching nearly a 
thousand colored men and women, with schools also of agriculture, carpentry, printing, 
tailoring, shoe-makmg, painting, blacksmithing, merchandising and domestic economy. 
Allen University, at Columbia, is managed by the colored people. 

Railroads. — The tenantless houses and grassy streets of ancient Charleston compelled 
her Chamber of Commerce to reach out for trade, and in 1827 they secured a charter for a 
railroad to Hamburg, which was begun in 1830 and finished in 1833, being then and for 
many years later the longest continuous railroad in the world (136 miles). This also has the 
honor of being the first railroad to carry the United-States mail (February, 1832). It was 
built on piles six feet apart, bound together by transverse sleepers, and surmounted by long 
varnished wooden rails, five feet apart and nine inches square, with flat bar-iron nailed to 
the inner side of the top. The Atlantic Coast Line includes the Wilmington, Columbia 
& Augusta ; the Northeastern, from Florence to Charleston ; and the lines to Conway, 
Bishopville, Dillon, Cheraw and other points. The Piedmont Air Line includes the various 
lines of the Richmond & Danville Railroad in the hill country. The South-Carolina Rail- 
way runs northwest from Charleston to Columbia, Aiken and Augusta. 

Chief Cities. — Columbia, the capital, near the centre of the State, is a pleasant little 
city, with impressive public buildings, the intersections of several railways, and machine, car 
and iron works. It is a city of wide streets, shaded squares and flowery parterres. 

Charleston is a handsome old city, facing from its verdant and aristocratic Battery on a 
broad and historic harbor, which is traversed by a large commerce, and lines of steamships 
to New York, Boston, Baltimore, Philadelphia and Savannah. Up to within 75 years, 
Charleston had a larger commerce than New York, but its yearly exports are now scarcely 
above $20,000,000, mainly of cotton, naval stores and phosphate. The city has an inland 
trade of $30,000,000 a year; and its 360 factories employ 5,200 persons. 

Up the coast is quaint old Georgetown, with its maritime commerce. Down the coast 
little Port Royal looks out on one of the noblest of American harbors, with aristocratic old 
Beaufort farther in, crowning the bluffs with its famous shell-road and promenade. 

The Manufactures include cotton goods and gins, flour, fertilizers, lumber, and tar and 
turpentine. The product of the cotton-mills increased from $713, 000 in i860 to $10,000,000. 
This is the chief cotton-manufacturing State of the South, and uses 132,000 bales yearly. 




Settled at Sioux Falls. 

Settled ill 1857 

Founded by lowans. 

Admitted to the U. S., . . 1889 

Population in 1880, . . . 98,268 

White 327.290 

Colored, 1,518 

American-born, .... 237.753 

Males, 180,250 

Females, 148.558 

In i89o(U. S. Censu:,), . . 328,808 
Population to the square mile, 4.28 
Voting Population {1890), . 9^.765 
Vote for Harrison (1892), 34.888 
Vote for Cleveland (189 ), 9,081 
Net State Debt §871,600 



$132,000,000 
77,650 



769 

64 

660 

2,717 

$5,682,748 
2.422 
81,098,418 
11,396,460 
lj;70,ooo,ooo 



The Dakotas came un- 
der the American flag by 
the Louisiana Purchase, in 
1S03. The part of South 
Dakota east of the Mis- 
souri belonged successively 
to the territories of Louisi- 
ana, Missouri, Michigan, 
Wisconsin, Iowa, Minne- 
sota, and Dakota. The 
section west of the river was separated from Missouri in 
1834, and became part of the Indian Country until 1854, 
when it was annexed to Nebraska. The Territory of Da- 
kota came into existence in 1861. The great Indian do- 
main of Dakota received here and there wandering 
French-Canadian trappers or traders, who married Sioux 
maidens, and dwelt among the wigwams. After Lewis 
and Clarke's exploring expedition ascended the Missouri, 
in 1S04-6, the American, Missouri, Northwestern, Rocky- 
Mountain, an* Columbia Fur Companies pushed their 
pioneer posts up the river. In 1830-32 the steamboats 
Yelloivstone and Assinnihoine ascended the stream, the pio- 
neers of a vast company. In 1851 the Indians signed the 
treaty of Traverse des Sioux, ceding to the United States 
the territory between the Minnesota line and the Big 
Sioux River. This grant was followed by subsequent ces- 
sions and attendant military demonstrations, as when Gen. 
Harney marched an army of 1,200 men from the Platte to 
Fort Pierre, in 1855. 

The first settlement was established in 1S57, at Sioux 
Falls, by the Western Town Lot Company, of Dubuque, 
Iowa. The people were driven out several times by the 
Indians, but returned as often, with dauntless American 
pertinacity. Unceasing troubles with the natives cul- 
minated in 1862 in the Sioux war, when the frontiers were ravaged for hundreds of miles, 
and all the Dakota settlers fled to Yankton. After the savages were thoroughly subjugated 
by Gen. Sibley's Minnesotians, in their brilliant campaign in eastern Dakota, and United- 



Assessed Property, . 
Area (square miles), . 
U. S. Representatives, 
Militia (Disciplined), . 

Counties, 

Post-Offices 

Railroads tmiles), . . 
Manufactured (yearly). 

Operatives 

Yearly Wages, . . . 
Farm Land (in acres), 

Farm-Land Values, 

Farm Products (yearly) $22,047,279 
Public Schools, Average, 

Daily Attendance, . . 54.40° 

Newspapers, 264 

Latitude, 43°to460N. 

Longitude, . . 56° 20' to 104° W. 

Temperature 39" to iii" 

Mean Temperature (Huron), 43° 



TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS. (Census of 189a,) 

Sioux Falls, 10,177 

Yankton 3.670 

Pierre, 3,235 

Aberdeen 3.182 

Huron, 3.038 

Watertown, 2,672 

Lead City 2,581 

DeadwooJ, 2,366 

Mitchell 2,217 

Rapid City, 2,128 



790 



A'lA'CS HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LLS, NEAR DEADWOOD. 



States garrisons studded the country, a great flood 
of immigration poured into the Territory, whose 
amazing crops of grain speedily astonished the 
western world. Yankton was the TeiTitorial capi- 
tal from 1862 until 1883, when the seat of govern- 
ment passed to Bismarck. 

The Name Dakota means "Allied." The pet 

names for South Dakota are The Artesian State, 

from its unri-. ailed artesian wells ; and The Coyote 

State, from an animal once abundant on its prairies. 

The Governor (see also page 656) has been 

Arthur C. Mellette, 1889-93. 

The Seal of South Dakota bears a river with a steamboat, and on the right a farmer at 

the plow, with a herd of cattle, and a field of corn. On the left stands a smelting furnace, 

and a range of hills. The motto is : Under God the People Rule. 

Descriptive. — South Dakota is separated from Minnesota and Iowa by the Big Stone and 
Traverse Lakes and the Big Sioux River ; from Nebraska by the 43d parallel ; from Wyo- 
ming and Montana by the 104th meridian ; and from North Dakota by the seventh standard 
parallel. It is 225 by 360 miles in area, and larger than all New England. The southern 
boundary is on the parallel of Detroit, Boston, and Rome. The greater part of the State is 
a high undulating plain, cut by many rivers and streams, with the Black Hills in the south- 
west and many bright lakes in the east. The whole country was once covered by the conti- 
nental glacier, succeeded by a great lake, both of which deposited here the ground-down drift 
and alluvial remnants of the mountains. The lake finally drained away through the Mis- 
souri, and left this imperial domain for the Indians and the buflalos. The alluvial soil is 
covered many inches deep with vegetable mould, from centuries of prairie-fires, and contains 
abundant saline matter, and the proper proportions of clay and sand for draining and pulver- 
izing. These open and treeless lands, arable and fertile, and capable, by deep ploughing, of 
perpetual rejuvenation, lie waiting for the farmer. The subsoil is a strong and tenacious clay. 
Above this the country is overlaid with dark alluvial loam, which the analyses of the Depart- 
ment of Agriculture find to be rich in nitrogen and soluble silica and potash and organic mat- 
ter, making an ideal soil for raising cereals. The Missouri Valley has rich bottom-lands, 
abounding in corn, small grain and live-stock, and now occupied by great numbers of farms 
and villages. The Big Sioux Valley presents much beauty of landscape, and raises corn and 
cattle and horses. The valley of the James River contains much rich and arable soil, made up 
of a dark vegetable loam, underlaid by marly clay, rich in phosphate of lime. The James is 
500 miles long, bounded on either side by prairies extending to the remote horizon, well- 
watered, and containing many large and profitable wheat-farms. The valley abounds in pow- 
erful artesian wells, reaching an immense subterranean stream from 800 to 1,600 feet down, 
and affording water enough to run heavy machinery and supply the village-reservoirs. This is 
a part of the mysterious Dakota artesian basin, 500 miles wide, extending from Nebraska 
to Manitoba, and pronounced by Nettleton to be the greatest basin of the kind in the world. 

Central Dakota covers the divide and prairies be- 

U ^— ~-^f:^ --< - --^!^-. _' tween the James and Missouri Rivers, with a rich and 

f ~^ populous farming country. The Sioux Reservation lies 

west of the Missouri, and 11,000,000 acres of it were 
bought by the Government from the Indians, and thrown 
open to settlement in 1890. The price paid was 
$10,500,000. The country is a vast rolling prairie, 
covered with rough sod and sage-brush, and cut by small 
streams. A third of it lies within the Bad Lands. 
Farther westward the Black Hills, rich in minerals and 




TERRAVILLE : GOLD MINES AND QUARTZ MILLS. 



containing many fertile valleys, rise 
sombre islands from the great plains. 

Agriculture finds a home on 50,000 
farms, valued at $70,000,000, and producing 
millions of dollars yearly. Corn has been 
raised to the amount of 22,000,000 bushels 
yearly, at from 25 to loo bushels to the acre. 
It is of excellent quality, abounding in nitro- 
gen and albuminoids, and far above the aver- 
age grade of American corn. 



THE STATE OF SOUTH DAKOTA. 



like 




SIOUX FALLS : 




GRANITE QUARRIES. 

The wheat crop exceeds 17,000,000 bushels yearly; the oat 
crop, 12,000,000 bushels; the barley crop, 1,700,000 bushels; and the potato and flax 
crops, above 2,500,000 bushels each. The wild prairie-grasses yield 1,500,000 tons of hay 
yearly, and the tame grasses 120,000 tons. The cultivation of flax is an important local 
industry, and supports also large tow-mills and linseed-oil mills. It is raised almost entirely 
for the seed. The State has 386,000 swine, 527,000 cattle, 200,000 horses, and 158,000 
sheep, including much fine blooded stock. The wool-clip reaches 5,000,000 pounds a year. 
Outside the Black Hills there are extensive cattle-ranges, formerly much used for stock 
from Colorado. 

Climate. — The Dakotas, with a mean yearly temperature of 41^°, are warmer than 
Minnesota (38°) or New Hampshire (26^°), and have less snow (47.8 inches) than New 
York (55.7 inches) or New Hampshire (86 inches). They have 300 days 
in the year that are fair or clear. No other Northern State has fewer 
cloudy days. The singular dryness of the air makes a very low tempera- 
ture in winter endurable, and gives a charm to the long autumnal sea- 
sons. The Chinook winds from the Pacific warm current have an appre- 
ciable influence in modifying- the temperature. The terrific northerly 
;ales of winter, laden with fine floating snow, are the most unfortunate 
the climatic of variations, and suffer merited reprobation under the name 
of "blizzards;" but fortunately they seldom occur. 

Minerals. — The Black Hills form a great ellipse, pointing north- 
west, with a granite central core, surrounded by gracefully curved and 
grassy sedimentary ridges, and sheltering many flowery and verdant valleys. They cover 
about 3,500 square miles, between the North and South Cheyenne Rivers, and culminate 
in Harney's Peak, 9,700 feet above the sea. The name of the range rises from the sombre 
appearance of the immense spruce and Norway-pine forests, as seen from the far-surround- 
ing plains. The gold-mines in the Black Hills were discovered in 1874, when Gen. Cus- 
ter's expedition reconnoitred that unexplored region. A wild rush of prospectors and miners 
entered the country, in spite of the United-States troops, who endeavored to expel them 
from this part of the great Sioux Reservation. The Sioux also resisted this invasion, and 
killed hundreds of the gold-hunters, until the hills were thrown open to settlement, in 1877. 
These mines have yielded $50,000,000 worth of gold and silver. After the placers gave 
out, the prospectors traced out the broad fissure veins in the hills, filled with low-grade 
native gold, in quartz, easily reduced by stamp-mills. 
The Homestake Combination covers an irregular belt 
of four miles long and 1,600 feet wide (near Lead City), 
forming the largest and most easily-worked mass of 
low-grade gold ore in the world. They employ 4,000 
men, and have many miles of ditches, and a railway 
27 miles long. Several other companies find profitable 
employment in this great treasure-house, "the Gol- 
conda of Dakota." Galena and Carbonate produce 
large quantities of silver and lead, and have smelters sioux falls, big sioux river. 



JAMES-RIVES VALLEY 
ARTESIAN WELL. 




792 



A'/NG'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SIOUX FALLS. 



and reduction-works to treat this refractory ore. Tin appears in the Black Hills in quantity 
suf^cient to create several new Cornwalls, and over S|i, 000,000 has been sunk in attempts 
at its paying development, chiefly by the Harney's-Peak Company. The ore is a black 

cassiterite, embedded in mica-schist ; 
— ' JT"--" " and the deposits cover an area of 500 

square miles, in a great semi- 
circle of 40 miles, around and 
northwest of Harney's Peak. 
Both lode-tin and stream-tin 
are found in enormous quanti- 
ties, easily manipulated and 
milling freely. The product of Dakota tin has not yet amounted to much, but high hopes 
are entertained of future developments. The Black Hills contain saline springs, whose waters 
are evaporated for making salt ; vast gypsum beds, used for plaster of Paris ; mica, of 
which large sheets are exported ; high-grade copper-ores, lying on the surface ; lignite (or 
brown coal), in large seams ; petroleum and natural gas ; and many other valuable minerals. 
Here also are quarried white, red, and variegated sandstones, white and purple limestones, 
granite and marble, and valuable strata of whetstone and grindstone grits. 

The chief health-resort is at Hot Springs, in the Black Hills, 4,000 feet above the sea, 
where a large hotel and bath-houses accommodate visitors. The waters flow at a tempera- 
ture of 96°, and are charged with electricity and minerals. For centuries this locality had 
been a favorite with the Sioux and Cheyennes, who held on to it 
until 1 88 1. Big Stone Lake and Madison are also well-known 
places for the summer pleasuring of the Dakotans. 

At the eastern extremity of the State, at Sioux Falls, are foun 
inexhaustible deposits of the so-called jasper, in red, pink, cherry, 
purple, peachblow, and gray tints. It is a variety of close- 
grained granite, or quartzite, hard enough to turn the sharpest 
tools, but easily cleaving by hammer-strokes, and forming a beautiful and indestructible 
building and paving material. It is quarried and polished by 1,000 men, in works equipped 
with the most modern and ingenious machinery, and spurs from the railways. A single 
company has sent away 10,000 car-loads of indestructible jasper paving-blocks ; and great 
quantities of the stone are used in building and for monuments. The polishing-works here 
finish this rich material into table-tops and columns of a glassy smoothness, which are sold 




SIOUX FALLS : 
SCHOOL FOR DEAF MUTES. 



by Tiffany & Co., 
Arizona isbrouirht 




SIOUX FALLS : 
MINNEHAHA-COUNTY COURT HOUSE. 



in New York. The exquisite chalcedony (or petrified wood) of 
to these works by the car-load, and polished for decoration. 

The Government consists of a governor and seven other 

executive officers, elected for two years ; a legislature of not 

exceeding 45 senators and 135 representatives ; and a Supreme 

< Court of three justices, with circuit and county courts. The 

temporary capitol is at Pierre, on the Missouri. 

The Penitentiary is an imposing jasper structure on the 
high bluff north of Sioux Falls, built at a cost of ,$500,000, 
and famous for the skilful polishing of chalcedony, porphyry 
and other rare stones, done by the convicts. The Reform 
School is at Plankinton. The School for Deaf Mutes oc- 
cupies several buildings on the heights southeast of Sioux 
Falls, and gives valuable technical instruction. The Hos- 
pital for the Insane has a farm of 640 acres, on high ground, 
near Yankton, and cost $250,000. The Soldiers' Home 
stands among the healthful and beautiful surroundings of 
Hot Springs, in the Black Hills. 



k 



THE STATE OF SOUTH DAKOTA. 



793 




SIOUX FALLS PENITENTIARY 



The United-States military posts are Forts 
Bennett, Sully and Randall, on the Missouri, 
and Fort Meade in the Black Hills, their garri- 
sons aggregating 6oo soldiers. 

The Pine- Ridge, Rosebud, Yankton, Chey- 
enne-River, Crow-Creek, and Sisseton Reserva- 
tions contain 18,500 Sioux Indians and 50O 
Northern Cheyennes, under the care of their 
chiefs. United- States agents, native police and 
Catholic and Episcopal clergy. These denizens 
of the plains are yielding slowly to civilization. An Indian industrial school, maintained 
by the General Government, has been established at the capital city, Pierre, in which 
Indian children are taught the useful mechanical arts. The Sisseton Sioux have been 
allotted lands in severalty, and in 1892 the parts of their reservation not thus occupied 
were thrown open for settlement. 

Education has always been accorded a prominent place in this purely American com- 
monwealth, and flourishes under an efficient system. Illiteracy includes but 4.2 per cent, 
of the people, the general ratio among white Americans being 11.9. The normal schools 
occupy handsome buildings, one at Madison, in the pleasant eastern lake-country, and 
another at Spearfish, among the Black Hills. The University of South Dakota was opened 
in 1882, and has handsome jasper buildings at Vermillion, and 475 students, mainly sons and 
daughters of , farmers. Of these 61 are in the collegiate department, the remain- 
der beine in the ^ lower schools. Tuition is free for Dakota pupils. The Agricul- 
tural College at Brookings has four good buildings, 
16 instructors, and 140 students of both sexes, many 
of whom support themselves by working on the col- 
lege farm and in its industrial shops. The School 
--^^ of Mines has well-equipped laboratories at Rapid 
City, convenient to the gold and silver, iron and 
copper, tin and nickel, coal and oil, lead and anti- 
mony deposits of the Black Hills. Yankton College was opened by the Congregational 
churches, in 1882, and has a fine building of red jasper, trimmed with Iowa white stone. 
Another Congregational college has recently been opened at Redfie'd. Dakota University 
was founded by the Methodists, and occupies a high and far-viewiiig estate of 320 acres, 
near Mitchell. The main building is of jasper, in Venetian architecture. Sioux-Falls 
University, founded by the Baptists in 1883, has ten instructors and 120 students, and a 
large building of jasper, on a hill overlooking the city. Pierre University belongs to the 
Presbyterian synod and overlooks wide vistas of the Missouri Valley. It opened in 1883. 
The Presbyterians have another college at Groton. All-Saints' School (for girls) is at 
Sioux Falls, the see city of South Dakota, and has a handsome building and chapel of 
jasper, trimmed with pipe-stone. The Catho- 
lics have seminaries at Aberdeen, Deadwood, 
Sioux Falls, and other cities. 

Upwards of $2,000,000 have been spent in 
building churches ; and the State has 1,000 
Sunday-schools. 

Chief Cities, — Sioux Falls was laid out 
in 1857, and destroyed by the Sioux in 1862. 
In 1865 Fort Dakota arose here, on a military 
reservation six miles square ; and when this 
was evacuated, in 1870, a new village sprang Ll^^^P 
up, rising .to 593 inhabitants in 1873. It is watertown : high schoou 




VERMILLION ; UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH DAKOTA. 




794 




BROOKINGS : AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE 




DEADWOOD. 



KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 

now the metropolis and gate-city of South Dakota, with large 
factories and quarries, a score of churches, and several colleges. 
The Big Sioux River falls here 90 feet within 
half a mile, sparkling clear, and dominated by a 
beautiful island. The predominant color of 
the city is red, from the red granite generally 
used in its buildings. Pierre, the capital, stands 
at the geographical centre of the State, near the 
site of old Fort Pierre, which was founded in 1829, and named for Pierre Chouteau of St. 
Louis, one of the early fur-traders. 

Deadwood received its name from the miners, in 1875, because of the dead timber on the 
adjacent hills. The city was laid out in 1876, burned up in 1879, and washed away in 
1883, but is still the distributing point and mining centre of 
the Black Hills, with a very large business. Deadwood is united 
to the East by three trunk railways, and has several narrow- 
gauge lines running to the mining-camps of the Black Hills. 
The city is Y-shaped, Whitewood Gulch forming the trunk and 
one prong, and Deadwood Gulch forming the other prong of 
the Y. The close-built business streets follow these ravines, 
and above, on the hill-sides, are the residences, commanding 
extensive views, as far as the snow-crowned Terry's Peak. 
Rapid City controls the trade of many camps and towns in the 
Black Hills, and is surrounded with coal and iron, tin and precious metals, sandstone and 
granite, marble and lime, and the grazing-grounds of 20,000 horses. It has been happily 
entitled "The Denver of South Dakota." Yankton, the old-time capital of all Dakota, 
stands on a line of chalk bluffs along the Missouri, not far from the inflowing of the James 
River. Aberdeen, on the James River, has risen since 1880, and possesses railways radiating 
in seven directions, and giving it a large jobbing trade. Watertown, on the Big Sioux, and 
near the pretty Lake Kampeska, is the distributing point for several counties, with wealthy 
banks and many public buildings and factories. Huron, on the James, is another lively 
little city, which came near being the capital of the State. 

Railroads enter South Dakota from the eastward at a 
dozen points, and cover the eastern counties with their lines. 
They reach the Missouri River at half a dozen points, but none of 
them crosses it, because up to recently the land beyond belonged 
to the Sioux Indians, and could not be occupied. The Chicago 
& Northwestern, the Milwaukee, the Great Northern and other 
railway companies are represented here. The Black Hills are 
reached from extreme northwestern Nebraska by lines branching northward from the Fre- 
mont, Elkhorn & Missouri Valley and the Burlington & Missouri-River systems, both 
traversing almost the entire length of the Hills, and curving together at Deadwood. One 
or two of the railways will soon be extended westward from the Missouri River, straight 
away towards the Pacific Ocean. The James River (locally known as the Jim) is the 
longest unnavigable river in the United States. It extends from its source near Devil's 
Lake across part of North Dakota and all of South Dakota, bordered 
by an almost illimitable prairie, reaching to the horizon, and already 
fairly populated with industrious communities of farmers. 
"Sea-like in billowy distance, far away 
The half-broke prairies stretch on every hand ; 
How wide the circuit of their summer day 
What measureless acres of primeval land, ~ ' "'' „~ ,o„„ . 

^ ' MADISON • 

Treeless and birdless, by no eyesight spanned," state normal schoou 




\ 



HOT SPRINGS : SOLDIERS' HOME. 





Probably the first white 
people to look upon Ten- 
nessean soil were the Span- 
ish cavaliers of De Soto's 
army, in 1 54 1, reaching 
the Mississippi at the site 
of Memphis. La Salle built 
Fort Prud'homme, 140 
years later, on the Fourth 
Chickasaw Bluff; and. in 17 14 the French erected Fort 
Assomption, on the same site ; and later the Spanish 
stronghold of Fort San Ferdinando de Barrancas received 
a garrison of Dons here. 

France claimed the territory of Tennessee, as a part of 
Louisiana ; Spain claimed it as a part of Florida ; and 
North Carolina extended over its entire area, according 

, lo the charter of Charles II. Equally indifferent to all 

these diplomacies, the Cherokees held the east and the 
Chickasaws the west, unconscious of their would-be Euro- 
pean lords. In 1748 a party of Virginians discovered the 
Cumberland Mountains, Gap and River, which they named 
after the Duke of Cumberland, the merciless victor of Cul- 
loden. The North-Carolinians entered Tennessee as early 
as 1754, but they were hurled back across the mountains 
by hostile Indians. Two years later Fort Loudon was 
founded, on the Little Tennessee, with a red-coat garrison 
and twelve cannon, which in 1760 capitulated to a besieg- 
ing force of Indians, the people being butchered or reduced 
to captivity. In 176 1 a little army of Virginians and North- 
Carolinians, under Col. Grant, crossed the AUeghanies, and 
defeated the savages in several bloody battles, after which 
they sued for peace. About the year 1770 the strong tides 
of migration from Virginia and North Carolina began to 



Settled at Fort Loudon. 

Settled in 1765 

Founded by . . North Carolinians. 
Became a State, .... 1796 

Population in i860, ... 

In 1870, 1,258,520 

In 1880 1,542.359 

White, i)i_"." 

Colored, 403.. 

American-born, , . . 1,525,657 
Foreign-born, .... 16,702 

Males 769,277 

Females, 773,082 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), . 1,767,518 

White, 1,332,971 

Colored, 434,300 

Population to the square mile, 36.9 
Voting Population, . . . 330,305 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 138,988 
Vote for Cleveland (fms\, 158,779 
Net State Debt, . . . $14,938,608 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1800), . 8348,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 42.050 
U. S. Representatives (1893), 10 

Militia (Disciplined), . . 1,671 

Counties, 96 

Post-offices 2.405 

Railroads (miles) 2,752 

Vessels 86 

Tonnage, 15,216 

Manufactures (j'early), $37,074,886 

Operatives,- 22,445 

Yearly Wajjes, . . . $5,214,775 

Farm Land (in acres), . 20,666,915 

Farm-Land Values, . $206,749,837 

Farm Products (yearly) $62,076,311 

Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 308,969 

Newspapers, 262 

Latitude, . . . . 35° to 36°35' N. 
Longitude, . . 8i°37' to9o''i5' W. 
Temperature, . . . — 16° to 104" 
Mean Temperature (Nashville), 58° 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Nashville, 76,168 

Memphis 64,495 

Chattanooga, 29,100 

Knoxville, 22,535 

Jackson, 10,039 

Clarksville, 7,924 

Columbia, 5.37° 

lohnson, 4.161 

Murfreesboro, 3.73° 

Union City 3.441 



flow into Tennessee, some through Cumberland Gap and 
along the river, and others down the Tennessee Valley and around the Cumberland Plateau. 
Traversing the mountain-passes on foot, with their household effects packed on horses, they 
occupied the great wilderness, abounding in timber and game. Settling along the Holston, 



796 



avjVG's handbook of the united states. 




SEWANEE VIEW FROM THE UNIVERSITY 



Watauga and Nolechucky, they inaugurated Virginian 
laws in the deep wilderness, and suffered many troubles 
with the Royal Government and the Indians. John 
Sevier organized the Watauga people and led them in 
the battle of King's Mountain, against the Tories and 
British ; and afterwards was outlawed as Governor of 
Franklin. In 1779-80 a fleet of open boats made an 
astonishing voyage of 2,000 miles, from Fort Patrick 
Henry, on the Holston, down the Tennessee and the 
Ohio and up the Cumberland, to French Lick, where they founded Nashville. The com- 
mander of the fleet was John Donelson, whose daughter Rachel married Andrew Jackson. 
The history of the region for the next 60 years deals with the expulsion of the Chero- 
kees and Chickasaws, the slow advance of internal improvements, the vigorous politics of 
the Polk and Harrison and other campaigns, and the settlement of the West. The bread 
of the pioneers was either johnny (journey) cake or ash-cake ; the butter, bear's fat or 
goose-fat ; the coffee, a decoction of parched rye or dried beans. The people wore home- 
spun and buckskin, the women with huge calico bonnets, the men with raccoon-skin caps, 
and both with buckskin moccasins. Their homes were log-huts ; their churches, barns ; 
their laundries, the woodland springs ; and their forts, palisades running around the cabins. 
In 1784 North Carolina ceded Tennessee to the United States, and a year later repealed 
the Act of Cession. The transmontane coun- 
ties then seceded, and later formed the State 
of Franklin; but Congress ignored its delegates. 
In 1 787 the young State returned to its allegiance 
to North Carolina. In 1 790 it was ceded to the 
Government, and became part of the Territory of 
the United States South of the Ohio River. 

In 1 86 1, the Tennesseans refused to summon 
a convention to consider seceding from the 
Union ; but three months later they voted, by 
57,675 majority, to leave the Republic. Within less than a year a great part of the State was 
restored to the Federal authority, and Andrew Johnson became military governor. Grant 
and Foote took Fort Henry (on the Tennessee) and Fort Donelson (on the Cumberland), 
with 15,000 prisoners, after a short but severe campaign, and occupied Nashville. Thence 
Grant advanced with 40,000 men to Shiloh, on the Tennessee, where he was surprised and 
beaten by Johnston's Confederate army ; but on the arrival of Buell, with the Army of the 
Ohio, a day later, he re-won the bloody field, the losses on both sides reaching 23,000 men. 
By June the entire Mississippi-River coast was free, the Federal fleet having utterly de- 
stroyed the Confederate gunboats off Memphis, and< occupied the city with a permanent 
garrison. January 4, 1863, Bragg's army was driven from Murfreesboro by Rosecrans's 
Nationals, after a four days' battle, in which 22,000 men were lost on both sides. Rose- 

crans pushed the enemy out of Shelbyville and Chat- 
tanooga, but at Chickamauga Bragg turned at bay, 
and terribly defeated the Federals (35,000 men being 
killed or wounded on both sides), whom he besieged in 
Chattanooga. In October, Grant, Sherman, Thomas, 
Hooker and Sheridan broke out of their beleaguer- 
ment, and in the magnificent battles of Chattanooga, 
Lookout Mountain and Missionary Ridge drove the 
Confederates into Georgia. When Sherman's great 
army moved from Atlanta toward the sea. Hood's 
Confederate army dashed into Tennessee, driving 




THE TENNESSEE RIVER. 




THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 



191 




THE HERMITAGE : ANDREW JACKSON'S RESIDENCE. 



Schofield before it, but losing 6,000 men in front 

of his lines at Franklin. With 40,000 men Hood 

kept on to Nashville, where he encountered Thomas's 

Federal army, and suffered a complete overthrow, 

losing 53 guns and 4,500 prisoners, besides many 

thousand killed and wounded. In the summer of 

1863 Burnside led the Army of the Ohio down the 

East-Tennessee Valley, and occupied Knoxville, 

which he defended against the heroic assaults of 

Longstreet's Southern infantry. The people of this 

mountain-land had remained true to the Union, and contributed 30,000 soldiers to the 

Federal army. Upwards of 30 counties of East Tennessee refused to join in the Secession 

movement. 

The Name Tennessee is a Cherokee word, meaning "A Curved Spoon," or "A Bend 
in the River." It was derived from Tanasse, the chief village of the Cherokee tribe, which 
stood on the shore of the river. The name was applied upon motion of Andrew Jackson, 
although it had previously been given to the country by popular usage. The pet 
name of Tennessee is The Volunteer State, on account of the military spirit of the 
people. The corn and pork product of Tennessee reached such great proportions between 
1800 and 1840, that the land received the designation (now obsolete) of 
The Hog and Hominy State. Tennessee has been called The 
Mother of Southwestern Statesmen, having given the Republic 
three Presidents, Jackson, Polk and Johnson, besides Thomas H. Ben- 
ton, Hugh L. White, John Bell, Felix Grundy, David Crockett, Admiral 
Farragut, Houston of Texas, Gwin of California, Watterson of Ken- 
tucky,- Sevier and Garland of Arkansas, Claiborne of Louisiana, Reagan 
of Texas and Morgan of Alabama. 

The Arms of Tennessee were adopted in 1796, and bear a plovr, a 
sheaf of wheat, and a stalk of cotton, with the word AGRICULTURE be- 
neath. Below this is a laden river-barge, with the word COMMERCE. 
The Governors of Tennessee have been : John Sevier, 1796-1801 and 1803-9; Archi- 
bald Roane, 1801-3 ; Wm. Blount, 1809-15; Jos. McMinn, 1815-21 ; Wm. Carroll, 
1821-7 and 1829-35; Sam. Houston, 1827-9; Newton Cannon, 1835-9; J^s. K. Polk, 
1839-41; Jas. C. Jones, 1841-5 ; Aaron V. Brown, 1845-7; Neil S. Brown, 1847-9; 
Wm. Trousdale, 1849-51 ; Wm. B. Campbell, 1851-3; Andrew Johnson, 1853-7 ; Isham 
G. Harris, 1857-61 ; Andrew Johnson (provisional) 1861-4; Wm. G. Brownlow, 1865-9; 
DeWitt C. Senter, 1869-71 ; John C. Brown, 1871-5; 
S. Marks, 1879-81; Alvin Hawkins, 1881-3; Wm. 
Robert L. Taylor, 1887-91 ; and John P. Buchanan, 
Description. — The civil division of West Ten- 
counties, and extends from the Mississippi to the 
Tennessee. Middle Tennessee, with 40 coun- 
ties, extends thence to the centre of the Cum- 
berland Plateau ; and East Tennessee's 33 
counties cover the remainder of the State. West 
Tennessee rises gently from the Mississippi, in 
long and level lowlands, traversed by sluggish westward-flow- 
ing rivers. The alluvial Mississippi bottoms, covering a thou- 
sand square miles with their magnificent forests and lakes, and 
cedar and cypress morasses, reach eastward to the long steep 
bluffs of the great undulating plateau which runs east 81; miles ^ 

=• , ""■<-■-> MEMPHIS: CUSTOM-HOUSE, 

to the Tennessee, and covers 9,000 square miles. Back of the post-office and levee. 




JACKSON'S TOMB. 



Jas. D. Porter, Jr., 1875-9; Albert 
B. Bate, 1883-7; 
1 89 1 -3. 
nessee includes 20 




798 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




ALUM CAVE : GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS. 



rivers are leagues of rich black mould, with wonderful 
harvests of cotton, tobacco and grain. Farther east, 
beyond the Tennessee Valley (which is ten miles wide), 
opens the great elliptical central valley, like the 
bed of a drained lake, surrounded by the highland 
rim, 300 feet high, and covering 5,450 square miles 
with fTelds of grain, cotton and tobacco, and the largest 
red-cedar forests in America. This is called the 
Garden of Tennessee, with every kind of charm- 
ing scenery, an unusual variety and opulence of pro- 
ducts, and vast herds of valuable domestic animals, 
fattened on the blue grass. Next eastward comes the great Cumberland Plateau, a thousand 
feet above the Tennessee, and covering 5,000 square miles, rich in coal and limestone, with 
an abrupt and formidable rocky rampart on the east, and a broken and jagged western 
slope, cut into by deep coves. One of the chief towns is Rugby, founded in 1880 by 
Thomas Hughes, the author of Tom Broivn's School Days, and settled partly by Eng- 
lishmen and Northerners. Beyond the forest-filled East-Tennessee Valley.^ deep channelled 
in the dolomite and sandstone, comes the mountain-land of East Tennessee, from seven to 
twenty-eight miles wide. On one side the Chilhowee range lifts its gray peaks over 5,000 
feet into the sky, and on the other side tower the Great Smoky and Bald ranges. The East- 
Tennessee Valley covers 9, 200 square miles, between the Alleghanies and the Cumberland 
Plateau ; and its final frontier toward Carolina is 
formed by the Great Smoky and the Unaka Moun- 
tains, rising beyond 6,000 feet, and bearing on their 
bare brows the vegetation of Canada. The wild 
country south and southeast of Knoxville has been 
made famous by Miss Murfree's stories. In the 7>«- 
nessee Momitains. There Tuckaleechee Cove and 
Cade's Cove lead inward to the Great Smoky peaks, 
culminating at the Siler Bald (5,600 feet high), Cling- 
man's Dome (6,660 feet), and Old Smoky (Mt. 
Guyot) 6,636 feet. The mountains are covered with 
valuable forests of pine and hemlock, chestnut and black walnut, growing to immense size, 
and producing large exportations of naval stores and lumber. 

The caverns of the Cumberland Mountains are many miles in extent, and contain power- 
ful subterranean streams, bones of extinct animals, and deposits of nitre, much of which 
was removed during the War of 1 81 2. Elsewhere in Tennessee are the mysterious sink- 
holes, hopper-shaped cavities on the surface, through which the waters drain down into 
subterranean streams. 

The Tennessee River is formed four miles above Knoxville, by the confluence of the 
French Broad, from the mountain-land of North Carolina, and 
the Holston from Virginia. It is 650 miles long, traversing the 
valley of East Tennessee to Chattanooga, 194 miles, and then 
cutting through Walden's Ridge and skirting the Sequatchie 
Valley, and sweeping around through Alabama, whence it turns 
northward and again crosses Tennessee, entering the Ohio at 
Paducah. It drains 41,000 square miles, falling 2,000 feet, 
and receiving many important tributaries. It is navigated by 
steamboats from the Ohio far into Alabama, 260 miles, and from 
above the Muscle Shoals to Knoxville. Several steamboats ply 
on the river between Chattanooga, Kingston and Loudon (142 
MEMPHIS : MADISON STREET. milcs), bearing large freights ; and hundreds of laden flat- 




NASHVILLE ; 
HOME AND TOMB OF JAMES K. POLK. 




THE STATE OF 7ENNESSEE. 



799 




CHATTANOOGA: CUSTOM-HOUSE 
AND POST-OFFICE. 



boats from Virginia and North Carolina come out of the French Broad, Watauga, Hiawas- 

see and other streams, bearing produce to Knoxville and Loudon. Steamboats ascend the 

Clinch and Emory Rivers to Harriman, one of the new iron-making cities. The commerce 

of the Tennessee exceeds $5,000,000 a year, mainly in lumber and 

grain, ore and live-stock, forage and merchandise, and other valu- 
able products of the mountain-land and the valley counties. The 

Holston, 350 miles long, is formed 180 miles above Knoxville by 

the union of the North and South Forks. The French Broad River 

has 121 miles in Tennessee, with a navigable channel of 90 miles, 

up to Leadvale, at the mouth of the Nolechucky River. The Little 

Tennessee flows down from the Blue Ridge 134 miles to the Ten- 
nessee, with 13 miles navigable. The Hiawassee, of equal length, 

comes from the Blue Ridge of Georgia, and steamboats ascend its 

course to Charleston, 20 miles. The Clinch River is born in Virginia, and steamboats 

go up to Clinton, for 70 of its 400 miles. The Cumberland River has most of its 

navigable waters in Tennessee, although its source and mouth are in Kentucky. Steam- 
boats ascend 192 miles, from Smithland on the Ohio to Nashville, during eight months ; 

and for a briefer time they can ascend to Point Burnside, 517 miles from the Ohio. 

The entire length of the river is 740 miles, and there are several navigable tributaries. 

The Mississippi River pours its great navigable floods along the entire western frontier of 
Tennessee for 160 miles. Its chief tributaries are the Big Hatchie, form- 
lavigable 240 miles, as far as Bolivar ; the Wolf, emptying at 
Memphis ; and the Forked Deer, which has been ascended by 
steamboats as far as Jackson, 195 miles. Reelfoot Lake, in 
the northwest, was formed during the great earthquakes of 
iSii, and has a length of 17 miles. 

The Climate is generally salubrious, except among the 
swamps of the west. The mountain country is widely fa- 
mous for the purity of its air, as well as the singular beauty 
of its scenery. The mean yearly temperature averages 59° 
in the west, 58° in Middle Tennessee, and 57'-^ on the mount- 
ains. The Cumberland Plateau has for many years been 

much resorted to in summer on account of its delightful climate and scenery, cool nights 

and bracing air. Most of the hotels and cottage-colonies are near the cliff-bound edges of the 

table-land. 

The Farm-Crops include yearly 80,000,000 bushels of corn, 9,000,000 of wheat, 

8, 000, 000 of oats, and 2,500,000 of potatoes, with 320,000 tons 

of hay. Tennessee has produced as high as 350,000 bales of 

cotton in a year, most of which comes from the southwest, and 

the central region south of Nashville. In tobacco, Tennessee 

stands next to Kentucky and Virginia, producing from 25,000,000 

to 40,000,000 pounds yearly. The counties north 

of the Cumberland cultivate a rich, strong and 

gummy tobacco, largely exported to England and 

Africa. The northwestern counties raise a silky, 

mild and light-colored tobacco. East Tennessee's 

output is mild and without much nicotine. Large 

quantities of stemmed tobacco are exported to Italy 

and Austria, France and Spain, to be made up in 

the government factories. Peanuts are raised in 

the west, and as many as 650,000 bushels have 

been sent out in a single year. 5,000,000 pounds 




MEMPHIS : COTTON EXCHANGE. 




CITY HALL 



COURT-HOUSE. 



8oo 



A'/A'C'S HANDBOOK OF TJIE UNITEl) STATES. 



of berries are raised yearly, with 7,000,000 pounds of apples, peaches and pUims ; and 
1,000,000 gallons of spirits are distilled. Tennessee has above 3, 600, 000 head of live-stock, 
of which 1,900,000 are hogs, with 800,000 cattle and 480,000 horses and mules. In 1840 
this was the foremost State in corn ; in 1850, in growing hogs ; and in i860, in mules. 

"Belle Meade" is the name of the most notable stock-farm for thoroughbred running 
horses in this country. It is a baronial estate, five miles from Nashville, Tenn., founded 
nearly 100 years ago by John Harding. He was succeeded by his son, Gen. W. G. Hard- 
ing, and he by his son-in-^aw, Gen.W. H. Jackson, the present proprietor. Gen. Harding, 
who was a great friend of "Old Hickory" (Gen. Andrew Jackson), imported some of 
the finest-bred stallions from Europe to improve his stock, and the annual sales of thor- 
oughbred yearlings at this famous nursery are important events in turf history. From 1875 




' BELLE MEADE 



NASHVILLE : 

to 1 89 1 inclusive, 636 yearlings have been sold at public auc- 
tion, to the highest responsible bidders, without by-bidding, for !|i42 7,98o, which yearlings 
won for their owners no less than $2,000,515 in stakes and purses. This is truly a grand 
showing, and unparalleled by any public breeding establishment in the world. When the 
representatives of the French Government, Baron Faverot and Capt. De la Chere, were sent 
to this country to inspect the breeding establishments and describe every variety of horse, in 
their report (of 600 pages), they stated that the best thoroughbred horses they found were at 
Belle Meade ; adding : " We saw the finest crop of yearlings there that we had ever seen." 

The estate covers 5,300 acres, half of it heavy timber cleared of undergrowth and sowed 
in blue grass, and the rest under cultivation. It is well watered by bold springs, and the 
water is filtered for the stock. There is also a deer park of 500 acres, where fi'om 250 to 
300 deer are kept, furnishing venison, and pleasant excitement in the chase. The owners 
of Belle Meade paid about $90,000 for Enquirer, Luke Blackburn, Iroquois, Imported 
Great Tom, Bramble^ and Inspector B. (the stallions now in use) ; and under noble old trees 
are the honored graves of Vandal, Jack Malone (one of the best sons of Lexington), Im- 
ported Priam, Imported Bonnie Scotland, and other famous kings of the turf. All distin- 
guished visitors to Nashville drive out the smooth turnpike to Belle Meade, where they 
receive delightful entertainment in one of the fairest regions of Tennessee. 

Minerals. — The iron industries of Chattanooga and Nashville are well-known, and 
new towns are springing up along Walden's Ridge and the Sequatchie Valley. Among these 
are Dayton, with its railway and great blast-furnaces ; Rockwood, on the Tennessee, with an 



THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 



80 1 




SOUTHERN IROiN 



iPICAL FURNACE. 



iron company capitalized at $1,000,000; Bristol, on the Virginian border; and Harriman, 
with abundant high-grade soft ore, surrounded with coking coal. In 1880 Tennessee pro- 
duced 71,000 tons of pig-iron, and in 1889 the output had risen to 473,000. 

The Southern Iron Company, of Nashville, was 
organized in 1889, to consolidate the interests of 
many important and rapidly developing establish- 
ments, in order to obviate ruinous competition, and 
10 avert the danger of an over-supply of iron. It 
ibsorbed several large iron and steel companies in 
Tennessee and Alabama, and became possessed of a 
number of active blast-furnaces. Among the valu- 
able properties thus acquired were the celebrated 
Roane Steel Mills, and many other valuable plants. Great tact and energy were shown by 
the officers of the Southern Iron Company in improving their new acquisitions, and placing 
them in the most efficient working order, thereby securing a commanding position among 
the manufacturing corporations of America. Its leading specialty is the manufacture of 
charcoal-iron for car-wheels and other purposes. In 1890 the company opened the great 
steel-mill at Chattanooga, for the making of steel for rails, etc. The capital of the Southern 
Iron Company is $6,000,000; and its operations cover a vast area of the iron-producing 
States of the South. From its central offices at Nashville go forth the orders which exem- 
plify its wise and cautious policy, and there are held the councils by which the future con- 
duct of many thousands of men are arranged for. Here are also received the orders for 
Southern iron and steel and their products, coming from all parts of the country. 

The coal-field, which extends from Pennsylvania |- 
into Alabama, occupies 5,000 square miles of the 
Cumberland Plateau, and is mined to the amount of 
2,000,000 tons yearly. The Sewanee Mines em- 
ploy 600 men ; and there are large mines in the vi- 
cinity of Knoxville, Chattanooga and elsewhere. 
Copper is mined in Polk County, the works em- 
ploying 1,000 men, and producing great quantities 
of ingot copper. Lead mines are worked in Brad- 
ley, Washington and Monroe Counties. 

The State abounds in marble quarries, producing Parian white, red, yellow, black, fawn- 
colored, gray, blue, breccia, red, variegated, chocolate, claret, conglomerate and many 
other varieties. The magnificent staircases of the Capitol at Washington were made of the 
light mottled strawberry marble of the Hol'ston River. The Tennessee marbles are among 
the finest in the world, being free from iron and sulphur, and hence not likely to tarnish 

or stain. Tennessee marble is gaining an en- 
viable reputation, and is largely shipped to all 
parts of the country. The most popular of 
these marbles is the variegated, or combina- 
tion of red and white. The white marble 
used in the Knoxville Custom House ij 
claimed to be the finerl: building stone in the 
country. When polished it does not present 
a glaring white surface, but a delicate pink is 
evident. Knoxville is the centre of the marble 
section. There are 28 quarries ; and the city 
contains three mills for sawing and cutting 
the marble into shape. The output is gov- 
erned by the Tennessee Producers' Marble 




TENNESSEE PRODUCERS' MARBLE CO. 




KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Company, incorporated in 1889, and now with a capital of i|200,ooo, and operating 13 quar- 
ries. It is one of the largest concerns of its kind in the State ; and the main office is at 



Knoxville. These marbles 
Capitol at Washington and 




are to be found in many noted buildings, including the 
the State Capitol of New York. The output last year 
amounted to 270,000 tons, which was sent chiefly to New 
York, Boston, Baltimore and Philadelphia. There is no 
more beautiful building material in the world than these 
exquisite marbles of Tennessee, whose use is rapidly 
extending everywhere. 

There are several large limestone quarries near 
Nashville. Tennessee also has vast deposits of pot- 
ter's clay, fire-clay and kaolin, which have given rise 
SEWANEE : 111 II' i OF THE SOUTH. (-q (-jjg pottcries at Kuoxville, Nashville and Memphis. 

Other treasures of the earth are the lithographic stone of McMinn ; the beautiful red and 
gray granites of Carter ; the unakite, or green granite, of the Unaka Mountains ; the mill- 
stones of Claiborne ; the saltpetre and Epsom 
salts of the caverns ; the alum and copperas of 
the middle counties ; the petroleum of Spring 
Creek; the hydraulic rock of Hardin ; the man- 
ganese of East Tennessee ; the asbestos of Cocke; 
the bluestone and iron pyrites of Ducktown ; and 
the baryta (or spar) of 
Greene and Carter. The 
mineral springs are 
'^^ famous for their variety and virtue, and pour out from the high 
1^- crests of the Smokies, as well as along the Cumberland Plateau. 
They include the Beersheba chalybeate waters, on the Cumber- 
land Plateau ; the Montvale calcic-chalybeate springs, in rhe 
Chilhowee Mountains ; the Rhea Springs, in East Tennessee, amid the pure dry air of the 





UNIVERSITY OF TENNESSEE. 



NASHVILLE ". 
PEABODY NORMAL COLLEGE. 



able chalybeate waters, 
tarns, lookmg out on 
and Geoigia, and Oliver 



mountains; Haymond's Springs, with valu- 
1,700 feet high on the Cumberland Moun- 
the far-away blue ranges of North Carolina 
Springs, near Walden's Ridge, with chaly- 
beate, red and white sulphur and other 
medicinal waters. The Tate Epsom 
Spring, in a pleasant valley near the Clinch 
Mountains, has a great modern hotel, with 
abundant and strong laxative and tonic 
waters, efficaceous in curing dyspepsia, 
and other diseases. The Red Boiling 
Springs in Macon County, and the Hurri- 
cane Springs in Franklin County, are well 
known, and have their quotas of summer- 
guests, seeking pleasure and health. 

Government. — The governor is elect- 
ed for two years ; and so also are the 33 

senators and 99 representatives who make up the General Assem- 
bly, meeting every other year, and choosing the other executive 
officers. There are five elective Supreme-Court judges, with ap- 
pellate jurisdiction ; eleven elective eight-year chancellors, with chancery courts ; 14 circuit 
courts, for common-law cases ; and the county criminal courts, the magistrates assembling 
four times yearly at the county-seat. The State House was built in 1853, of a beautiful 






NASHVILLE : FISK UNIVERSITY, JUBILEE HALL. 



THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 803 

Tennessee fossiliferous limestone, at a cost of $1,000,000, on Capitol Hill, overlooking 
Nashville and the valley. It contains the State library of 30,000 volumes, and an interest- 
ing gallery of portraits. The State Hospital for the Insane, six miles from Nashville, has 

400 inmates. The Ten- -■ ,,, ^^ 

nessee School for the 
Deaf and Dumb, at 
Knoxville, has 115 stu- 
dents. The State Peni- 
tentiary at Nashville is 
■^^^^ run on the private-lease 
system. 

Common Schools ^isk university : Livingstone hall. 
existed before the war, for white children only, but 
now all children between six and 2 1 are entitled to 
free education. The University of the South was designed by Bishop Leonidas Polk of 
Louisiana, for a great school of learning. The bishops assembled in 1857, and acquired 
10,000 acres of land for the university domain. The Secession War stopped the scheme 
midway ; but after that vast tragedy had ended, the Church renewed its design, and large 
funds were raised for it in Elngland, after the Lambeth Congress of 1867. In 1868 the 
university went into operation, on the noble plateau of Sewanee, 2,100 feet high on the 
Cumberland Mountains, amid great forests and crystal streams, and in a remarkably brac- 
ing and healthy climate. The stone 
Hall date from 1878-9, and contain 
logical school. The beautiful tower of 
dalen Tower, at Oxford. Fourteen 
the support of this noble institu- 
300 students. There are 154 in 
theological school, and 116 in the 
students are uniformed, and drilled 
The University of Tennessee 
year 1794, and was opened in 1807, 

from 1862 to 1866. In 1869 it """'"""'"'■ ''"°' -^^^"'^- received the agricultural - college 
fund, and became also the State Agricultural and Mechanical College, with classical, me- 
chanical and agricultural courses, and a model stock-farm of 275 acres. The students are 
uniformed and drilled, and under military discipline. The buildings crown a far-viewing hill 
near Knoxville. Its medical and dental departments are at Nashville, with full faculties 
and large classes, numbering nearly 300 students. 

The University of Nashville was organized as an academy in 1785, and from 1826 (when 
it became a university) to 1850, under Dr. Philip Lindsley, held high rank as a classical 
school. In 1875 its trustees and the trustees of the Peabody Education Fund converted 
the literary department into the now-famous Peabody 
Normal College, supported by the fund, the State of 
Tennessee, and the University, and edu- 



eating 400 young men and women to be 
teachers. The medical department of the 
University was united with that of Van- 
derbilt University in 1875, '^he 230 scholars 
of the joint school occupying the buildings 
of the former. The Montgomery Bell Acad- 
emy is a classical school, under theUniver- 
sity. The Normal College occupies an an- 
cient qind ivy-clad buttressed stone building. 




NASHVILLE : POST-OFFICE, 



buildings of Hodgson Hall and St. -Luke's 
the library (24,000 volumes) and the theo- 
Convocation Hall recalls the Mag- 
Southern dioceses contribute to 
tion, which has 30 instructors and 
the academic department, 20 in the 
grammar-school. The younger 
i bjl' by a United-States officer. 

^ received its incorporation in the 
and occupied for military purposes 




LLIAMS UNIVERSITY. 




8o4 A'ING'S HAND BOO A' OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Vanderbilt University was chartered in 1872, and endowed by Commodore Vanderbilt with 
$1,000,000 ; and is conducted by the M. E. Church. It occupies a park-like domain of 71 
acres, on the high hills near Nashville, and has extensive modern equipments and noble 
buildings. In University Hall are the chemical and pharmaceutical, academic and law 
schools, and the library (16,000 volumes), chapel and museums. In Science Hall are the en- 
gineering school, the forge and machinery rooms, and geological and natural-history cabinets. 
Wesley Hall has the theological department, chapel and refectory. There is also an observa- 
tory and a gymnasium. The university has 70 instructors and over 600 students ; 150 acad- 
emic, 50 biblical, 40 in law, 230 medical, lOO dental, 30 pharmaceutical and 50 in engineering. 
Cumberland University, founded in 1842 by the General Assembly of the Cumberland 
Presbyterian Church, is at Lebanon, and has 113 students, besides 57 in law, 37 in theology 
and no preparatory. Cumberland is steadily regaining the prominent position which it 
held before the war, when over 500 students thronged its halls. 
The U. S. Grant University is a Methodist institution, formed 
by the consolidation of the Chattanooga and Grant Memorial 
Universities in 1889. The academic, theological and techno- 
logical departments are at Athens ; the academic, collegiate, 
law and medical departments at Chattanooga. There are 452 
students, about 70 of whom are collegiate. The Southwestern 
Presbyterian University (130 students) was founded at Clarks- 
ville in 1874; the Southwestern Baptist University (130), at 
Jackson in 1874; King College (66), by the Presbyterians at 
Bristol in 1869 ; Hiwassee College, by the Methodists in 1849 ! 
Bethel College (303), by the Cumberland Presbyterians at 
McKenzie in 1847 > Maryville College (222) and Tusculum 
MEMPHIS: TENNESSEE CLUB. Collegc (30), by the Presbyterians in 1819 and 1794; Carson 

College (29), in 1849 ; and Burritt College by the Christians at Spencer in 1850. 

Nashville is often called "the Athens of the South," and besides its colleges for whites, 

• . . . 

it is the foremost seat of education for the African race in the world, having several great 

institutions for colored students. 

Roger-Williams University was founded at Nashville in 1864, by the Baptists, for colored 
youths, and has 284 students, including 247 normals and 26 in theology. It possesses several 
buildings on a domain of 30 acres adjoining Vanderbilt University. Fisk University at Nash- 
ville dates from 1866, and is one of the foremost schools for educating the colored race. It 
is Congregational in polity, and a foundation of the American Missionary Association. There 
are 400 students in all departments, normal, academic, industrial and musical. Jubilee Hall 
and Livingstone Hall are noble and commodious buildings, in a pai"k of 25 acres. In 1866, the 
Methodist Episcopal Church founded at Nashville the Central Tennessee College, which has 
40 instructors and 600 students, in preparatory, college, scientific, medical, dental, pharmaceu- 
tical, theological, law and industrial courses, and a training-school for missionaries to Africa. 

National. — For some years a navy-yard was kept up at Memphis, but it was abandoned 
in 1853. In 1S87 Congress ordered the establishment of a National Arsenal at Columbia, 
and its construction began in 1890. Some measure of the preciousness of Tennessee soil 
to the Republic may be seen from the National cemeteries here : Chattanooga, with 13,007 
graves; Fort Donelson, 669; Knoxville, 3,157; Memphis, 13,981; Nashville, 16,534; 
Shiloh, 3,596 ; and Stone's River, 6,145. 

Chief Cities. — Nashville rests in the heart of the great central basin, with six con- 
verging railways and the navigable Cumberland River, 66 churches, several universities 
and colleges, imposing public buildings, electric cars, water-works, and efficient fire and 
police departments. It is the foremost city in the world for manufacturing hard-wood lum- 
ber, the largest flour-milling city in the South, and the second jobbing city in the South. 
Its incorporated companies represent a capital of $90,000,000. The Watkins Institute 



THE STATE OF TENXESSEE. 



805 




contains the Historical Society, city library and art-school. There are 9,000 children in the 
public schools, and a great many others in the 28 private seminaries. 

Among the conspicuous edifices of Nashville, vi^hich give a metropolitan character 
to the chief city of Tennessee, is the fine Baxter Court, the tallest office building in the 
State, and admirably situated in the heart of the business district. A part of this towering 
pile of masonry is used for a hotel, on the American and European 
plans ; and the rest is chiefly devoted to offices for lawyers, where 
the legal luminaries of the Tennessee bar find a local habitation 
during their hours of labor and study. The topmost floor contains 
a finely appointed and extensive law library, specially for the con- 
venience of the tenants, but often consulted by lg.wyers resident or 
visiting in the city. The projector and owner of this architectural 
ornament of Nashville is the Hon. Jere Baxter, the son of Judge 
N. Baxter. Although yet a young man, he has taken an active 
part in developing the railroad and industrial and agricultural ac- 
tivities of his State, and is prominently mentioned as a candidate 
for the Governorship. Mr. Baxter's beautiful estate, Maplewood, 
seven miles from Nashville, is, one of the famous stock-farms of 
Tennessee. 

The erection of the Maxwell House at Nashville was begun 
just before the war. The walls were built and the roof put on, and 
when hostilities began its completion was stopped. When Nash- 
ville was occupied by the Union troops, the building was used as '" "~ 1 ~ J^ 
a barrack. The house was completed and opened in 1869, by nash l e l-j ter court 
John Overton. In 1S80 it passed into the hands of the Maxwell-House Company, and 
has ever since been successfully managed. It contains over 250 rooms, and is the largest 
and best hotel in Tennessee, and the political headquarters in the State for all parties. 
Many distinguished people have stopped there — Generals Hooker, Halleck, Custer and For- 
rest ; Presidents Andrew Johnson, R. B. Hayes, and Grover Cleveland ; Senators Mont- 
gomery Blair, John Sherman, Evarts, Bayard, Randall and Schurz ; and also Neilson, Patti, 

Abbott, Langtry, Booth, Barrett, Eorrest, Mario and 
Brignoli. The successive Governors of the State have 
stopped there without an exception since the house was 
opened. The Maxwell is kept up to the demands of the 
city, and is carefully renovated and remodelled from 
time to time. In 1890 more than !fi5o,ooo were ex- 
^Li^ pended on the house, so as to make it the most acceptable 
hotel in this part of the country. It is five stories high, 
and occupies a space of 225 by 200 feet. The Maxwell 
is also the most conveniently located hotel in Nashville. 
Memphis stands on the Fourth Chickasaw Bluff, its wide esplanade overlooking the 
Mississippi River, with ten converging railways and 14 steamboat lines, an enormous whole- 
sale trade and cotton export, and cotton-seed-oil mills. It is the most important point between 
St. Louis and New Orleans, and in spite of past pestilence and municipal bankruptcy, has 
developed into a great city. The broad river that lapses against its sandstone levee is very 
deep and free from ice. The costly railway bridge now being built here across the Mississippi 
River will give Memphis a vast Southwestern trade. The city has 10,000 workmen in its 
factories. It does a grocery business of $25,000,000 a year, and is a chief distributing point 
for shoes and hardware. There are 1,000 lumber-mills in the Memphis district, with an out- 
put of 100,000,000 feet a year. Knoxville, "The Queen City of the Mountains," and once the 
capital of Tennessee, is beautifully situated on the hills over the upper Tennessee River, 
with valuable railway connections, and a country trade of $25,000,000 a year. It has 35 




MAXWELL HOUSE. 



8o6 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN 



churches, two colleges, a Government build- 
ing of marble, a handsome public library, 
and large foundries, cotton-mills, car-works 
and zinc- works. The remains of John Sevier, 
the first governor of Tennessee, were re- 
moved from North Alabama in 1889, and 
buried at Knoxville, with imposing cere- 
monies. Knoxville is the literary, commer- 
cial and political metropolis of East Tennes- 
see, and from its throne of hills in the centre 
of the valley looks southward to the mag- 
nificent line of the Smoky Mountains. It was the home of Jackson and Blount, of John 
Sevier and David Crockett, of Parson Brownlow and Horace Maynard ; and cherishes 
the memories of three perilous sieges and assaults by hostile armies. Bristol, on the 
Virginian frontier, also deals largely in tobacco. Columbia has several mills, and an en- 
vironment of stock-farms. Jackson, in West Tennessee, is a famous cotton-market, with 
half-a-dozen factories. The country around Murfreesboro is prolific in cotton and fruit. 
Lebanon and Shelby ville are well-known markets for mules. Chattanooga arose in 1836, at 
the intersection of the inier-slate wagon-roads through the mountains, and is now the converg- 
ing point of nine railways, and an important port on the Tennessee River, being only 34 miles 
farther from the Gulf of Mexico (by water), than Cincinnati. There are 22 coal-mines and 17 
iron-furnaces in the district, producing yearly 1,250,000 tons of coal, and2,400 coke-ovens. 
The first Bessemer steel in the South was made here, and the Roane Works have a capacity of 
250 tons daily. The city has 152 factories, employing 8,500 persons and producing 
$1 1,000,000 worth of goods yearly. It also enjoys a large trade in grain and lumber. 

Rising 1,700 feet above the Tennessee River, 
the world-famed Lookout Mountain lifts its 
noble head, from which seven States may be 
seen. The natural panorama is remarkable, and 
travelers who have journeyed on both sides of the 
water say that the views from Lookout Point are 
without a peer. To the natural attractions are 
added memories of historic importance. The 
mountain and its surroundings were the scene of 
some of the greatest struggles of the Civil War. 
These sights are now easily accessible to the 
tourist, owing to the completion of the Chatta- 
nooga & Lookout-Mountain Railway, a standard broad-gauge road, operating the best of 
rolling-stock. Every train has with it one or two Pullman coaches. The length of the 
road from Chattanooga to the top of the mountain is ten miles. The line traverses some 
of the better suburbs of the city, and beginning the ascent passes the old Cravens house, 
which was occupied by General Walthall as his headquarters during the battle. P'ollow- 
ing the trend of the mountain, the train 
passes the various points of interest, includ 
ing the old Confederate fort, which is still 
standing. The line ends at Lookout Point, 
1,700 feet above the sea level. Every pre 
caution against accident has been taken 
The track is heavily ballasted with stone, 
and laid with the best 60-pound steel rails 

The engines are equipped with Westinghouse "'-^-.^-V \\^ 

and Eames automatic brakes. At the end lookout mountain : the lookout inn. 




LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN AND TENNESSEE RIVER. 




THE STATE OE TENNESSEE. 



807 




- '^'~'Ji\ 



SUNRISE ROCK : 
CHATTANOOGA & LOOKOUT- 
MOUNTAIN RAILROAD. 



of the road and on the top of the mountain is the Lookout Inn, 
one of the best hotels in the South, and in fact one of the finest 
resorts in America. The building is five stories high, and includ- 
ing its two extensive wings, it is 365 feet in length. It is an at- 
tractive and substantial brick and stone structure, designed by 
Sully & Toledano. In the centre is a lofty tower, at the top of 
which rises an observatory, whence may be had the finest view from 
the mountain. Verandas extend entirely around the building. 
The hotel has 600 rooms, and with the annexed cottages can accom- 
modate 1,000 guests. The grand hall is 50 by 80 feet; and the 
dining-room, which is 70 by 1 15 feet, will seat 600 persons. An 
orchestra and band are present all the season, and scarcely an even- 
ing passes without a hop or a german. Some of the choicest 
parts of Lookout Mountain have been laid out for residences, and 
the Lookout-Mountain Company has brought about a considerable 
settlement in this locality, so famous for its history and so charming for its picturesqueness. 
Coming down from Lookout Mountain, but before arriving at Chattanooga, can be seen 
the grand property of the Chattanooga Land, Coal, Iron & Railway Company. This 
company owns 20,000 acres of land, one third of which is nearer the city than any other 

unoccupied territory. The prop- 
erty of the company is bordered by 
eleven miles of deep-water river 
front. Hamilton County, in which 
Chattanooga is situated, has built 
a public bridge over the Tennessee 
River, leading direct from the 
heart of the city to the company's 
property. The bridge is of iron 
and steel, built at a cost of $250-, 
000. The company owns 5,000 
acres on Walden's Ridge. This 
situation is remarkable for its 
sanitary excellence, being a part 
MOCCASIN BEND, FROM LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN. ^f ^^^ cdebratcd Cumberland 

table-land, where no case of pulmonary consumption ever occurred. These lands abound in 
coal and fossiliferous iron ores. The coal is excellent for coking purposes. In addition 
to this, the company owns 7, 500 acres of fine limestone property. The Chattanooga Land, 
Coal, Iron & Railway Company is heavily backed by Northern and English capital, and 
forms one of the soundest organizations of this character in the South. The company has 
built an electric railway, reaching from the heart of the city, and running through its prop- 
erty nearest the city. Its plans are also matured for a standard-gauge steam railway bridge 
over the Tennessee River, and a railway to the mountains for the development of its great 
areas of coal. It contemplates adding a residence and manufacturing suburb to 
Chattanooga, and gives liberal aid to enterprises locating on its lands. 





CHATTANOOGA, ON THE TENNESSEE RIVER, 



8o8 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITJW STATES. 




Finances. — The net debt of the State has fallen from nearly $28,000,000 to $15,000,- 
000 in 1890. The floating debt has been extinguished, and the obligations are now con- 
centrated in a bonded debt. In point of banking, as well as a cotton mar- 
ket, Memphis is a live city. Its banking capital is $10,000,000, and its 
yearly clearing-house business exceeds $125,000,000. The State banks of 
Tennessee outnumber the National banks. The largest bank in the State 
is the Bank of Commerce, of Memphis. This is one of the most flourishing 
banks in the South. It has $1,000,000 of capital stock, and about $350,- 
000 surplus and undivided profits. Its total assets amount to over $3,000,- 
000. There are individual and bank deposits approximating $1,500,000. 
The president is S. H. Dunscomb ; the vice-president is John Overton, 
Jr. ; and J. A. Omberg is the cashier. The Bank of Commerce has a 
board of directors that includes some of the most influential and substan- 
tial citizens of Memphis. It owns and occupies its own building, which 
MEMPHIS "" was specially designed for this institution. The advancement of the Bluff 
BANK OF COMMERCE. City to Its prcscnt high place has been largely aided by this powerful and 
sagacious bank, which stands ready to give financial aid to all properly accredited enter- 
prises, and to stimulate in every possible way the growth at this point of the metropolis of 
the lower Mississippi Valley. The enormous transactions in cotton and lumber in this re- 
gion render necessary a banking system of the most careful and skilful organization, and 
this is furnished by the Bank of Commerce of Memphis. 

The cotton princes of Memphis are mainly united in six firms, with an aggregate capital 
exceeding $10,000,000, and their energy and intelligence have madeof this city thelargest in- 
terior cotton market of the world. Foremost among these is the firm of Hill, Fontaine & Co. , 
called the largest inland receivers of cotton in the world,' and covering ten States with their 
enterprises, in which they have an invested capital of $2,000,000. Their crop reports are 
gathered by an army of correspondents, and telegraphed all over Europe and America as 
unimpeachable authority. In a single year they have received on consignment and sold on 

commission the enormous quantity of 136,000 
bales of cotton. The business also includes a 
large wholesale grocery trade, furnishing sup- 
plies for a broad area of the Mississippi Valley. 
The firm occupies a high position as commis- 
sion-merchants, selling actual cotton received, 
and doing a total business of $8,000,000 a 
year. Its name is a tower of strength among 
the planters of half a score of States ; and 
MEMPHIS : WAREHOUSE NO. 1, u: _-, - ; :_ :. CO. whenever seasons of depression come. Hill, 
Fontaine & Company are always ready, with their large capital and influence, to secure for 
the producers the full value of their crops. 

Railroads here began with the Memphis Railroad, chartered in 1831, when there were 
but fifty miles of track in America. Their construction was advocated by Gen. Gaines and 
Col. Hayne of South Carolina, in 1835. Ten years passed before the Nashville & Chat- 
tanooga line received incorporation, and only in 1853 did the trains begin running between 
Nashville and Bridgeport. The Memphis & Charleston Railroad got its charter in 1846, 
and finished the line in 1857. The Hiwassee (East-Tennessee & Georgia) Railroad was 
chartered in 1836, and began construction near Athens in 1837, but trains ran from Dalton 
to Knoxville only in 1867. This route was connected with the Virginia system a year later. 
The Nashville & Northwestern began in 1852, and reached Hickman in 1868. The 
Louisville & Nashville was opened in 1859, an^d its Memphis branch in i860. The first 
important highway in Tennessee was the Natchez Trace, cut through by the Government, 
in Jefferson's administration, from Kentucky to Natchez, the route lying 35 miles west- 





E. T. , V. & Q. R. R. DEPOT. 



TWi? STATE OF TEMNESSEE. 809 

ward of Nashville. It was much used by boatmen returning from New Orleans. The 
Military Road was cut by Gen. Jackson from Nashville to Jackson, Miss., for the passage 
of troops and supplies, and afterwards became a famous route for stages and hog and 
mule drivers. The rugged and hilly early roads have been replaced by a far-reaching 
and efficient system of macadamized turnpikes, built at a cost of millions of dollars. 

The heart of the South is penetrated by means 
of the East-Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia Railroad. 
This great system has its centre at Chattanooga and 
throws out its branches in every direction. Passing 
northward it intersects at Knoxville with two great 
branches, one reaching Cincinnati and Chicago and 
the whole West and Northwest ; the other, winding 
through the romantic mountainous regions of North 
Carolina, Tennessee and Virginia, passes on to Nor- 
folk, Philadelphia and New York. From Chatta- 
nooga westward the East-Tennessee, Virginia & 
Georgia Railroad reaches out one of its great arms to Memphis and the navigation 01 the 
Mississippi River. Another arm extending southeasterly across the entire expanse of the State 
of Georgia, reaches tidewater at Savannah and Brunswick, and at Jacksonville and St. Augus- 
, tine, Florida. Still another arm extends southwesterly, crosses diagonally 

the State of Alabama and reaches Mobile and the navigation of the Gulf. At 
Selma, Ala., a branch divides, which extends to Meridian, 
Miss., and thence by connections New Orleans is quickly and 
easily reached. This great system owns or controls more than 
1,600 miles of track line. Fully one half of its tracks is of the 
best steel. The company is financially in a very prosperous 
condition, and it is constantly extending its track and increasing 
its facilities for reaching important points. It has a capital 
of $57,000,000, with a funded debt of $21,000,000. This 
flourishing corporation is the successor of another bearing a 
similar name, whose property was in May, 1886, sold under 
foreclosure, and purchased for the security-holders, under an 
admirable plan of reorganization. This was speedily effected, 
and the new company under good management has prospered from its organization. The 
road is a favorite with people visiting the South, and especially with those seeking the moun- 
tain-resorts at Chattanooga and Asheville, and throughout Virginia and North Carolina. 

The Manufactures of Tennessee rose from $20,000,000 of invested capital and $37,- 
000,000 of output in 1880, to $40,000,000 in invested capital and $75,000,000 in yearly out- 
put in 1885. Tennessee has 23 cotton-mills, with 100,000 spindles, employing 2, 700 opera- 
tives and using 33,000 bales yearly; 19 woolen mills, with 900 hands, using 2,113,000 
pounds yearly ; and 13 iron and steel manufactories, with 5,500 workmen. The yearly pro- 
duct of flour reaches $10,000,000 ; of lumber, $5,000,000; of leather, $2,000,000. The 
cotton -seed-oil mills are of large and growing importance, producing yearly 3,000,000 gal- 
lons of oil and 300,000 sacks of meal and cake. This industry dates from 1859, and at first 
all the products were sent to England, the oil being used entirely for lubricating. 

The immensity of the cotton trade in this country is due in a great measure to the in- 
vention of the cotton gin by Eli Whitney. Before that time the seeds of the cotton had to 
be picked by hand from the fibre by a very slow process. The Milburn Gin & Machine Com- 
pany of Memphis has been in the business of manufacturing cotton machinery since 1879. 
Their plant comprises an exceptionally large block of fine brick buildings, covering over 
five acres of ground, where 500 men are employed. The company was incorporated in 
1883, and was practically a consolidation of two companies, the Carver Gin & Machine 




knoxville: 
general offices of e.t. ,v. &g.r.r. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Company and the Milburn Iron Works, and thus 
l)rought about one of the notably large industries 
of the South. The material alone annually con- 
sumed costs nearly $500,000. Although the capital 
IS not legally set, the amount used is nearly 
$1,000,000. Besides ginning machines they turn 
out steam-engines, boilers, tanks and oII-hhU 
machinery. In the specialty of wood-split pulleys 
this is one of the foremost manufactories in the 
country, making immense quantities, which are 
sold throughout the Union. This company has 
taken several awards. They have agencies 
throughout the South, and in Russia, Australia and South America. The Milburn Gin & 
Machine Company has made a successful competition with Northern manufacturers. 

One of the most enterprising cities of the South is Memphis, the centre of the upland 




MACH NE CO 



points in the coun- 
nd Mississippi, 



cotton region, and one of the leading receiving 
try. Four States, Alabama, Tennessee, Arkansas, 
send much of their raw cotton to Memphis, there 
to be brought into shape and shipped on the Miss- 
issippi River, or on some of the many railroads 
entering the city. In 1889 over 700,000 bales 
were received here. Formerly the compressing 
of cotton was done in a singularly clumsy way. 
Platforms about ten feet high were built, from 

which big sacks of jute bagging hung. Cotton lookout mountain, from missi9nasy ridge. 

was piled in until the sack was half full. Then two of the heaviest negroes of the plantation 
got into them, to tread them down. The Merchants' Cotton Press & Storage Company, 
the largest of its kind in the world, was founded in 1870, for the more scientific and syste- 
matic handling of the great cotton-crops of the States of which Memphis is the centre. Its 
original capital of $50,000 has increased to $1,500,000, with a large and available surplus. 





The plant mcludes six first-class modem compressors, of the Morse & Taylor make, with an 
operating capacity for 10,000 bales a day. In a single year they have compressed over 500,- 
000 bales. The presses are located in five different localities on the great routes centreing 
at Memphis. The buildings are of brick, and are equipped with apparatus for the extinguish- 
ing of fire. The officers are Napoleon Hill (of Hill, Fontaine & Co.), president; S. K. 
Montgomery, general manager ; and J. M. Fowlkes, secretary and treasurer. 




Settled at San Antonio. 

Settled in i6qo 

Kounded by Spaniards. 

.Admitted to the U. S., . . 1845 

I Population, in i860, . . . 604,215 

In 1870 818,579 

In 1S80, 1,591,749 

White, 1,197,237 

Colored, 394.512 

American-bcini, . . . 1,477,133 
Foreign-born, .... 114,616 

Males 837," 

Females, 7S3i909 

In 1890 (U. S. census), . 2,235,523 
Population to the square mile, 6.1 
Voting Population, . . . 380,376 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 88,422 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 254,883 
Net State Debt, . . 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . 
Area {square miles), 



None. 



U. S. Representatives (in 1893), 



1,000,000 
265,780 



2,688 

244 

2,366 

8,613 



The first European settle- 
ment in Texas was made hy 
the Sieur de la Salle, who 
in 1685 erected Fort St. 
Louis, on the Lavaca, near 
Matagorda Bay. The 
French garrison was de- 
stroyed by the Indians; and 
five years later Capt. De 
Leon and no Spanish sol- 
diers and monks founded on the same site the mission of 
San Francisco. After a gloomy period of Indian hostilities 
and failing crops, governor and garrisons and colonists 
abandoned the country together. In 17 14 St. Denis was 
sent to occupy Texas for France, but having been captured 
by Spanish troops on the Rio Grande, he aided in estab- 
lishing in Texas divers Spanish missions, San Antonio, 
Dolores, San Agostino, and Nacogdoches. The domain 
bore the name of The New Philippines, and the Marquis de 
Aguayo became its governor-general. For over a century 
Franciscan missionaries and clergy worked among the 
Indians, converting them to Christianity and semi-civiliza- 
tion. Their decline began in 1758, after the dreadful mas- 
sacre of the pastors, flock and garrison of San Saba, and 
the workmen in the silver mines near that place. The 
Concepcion, San Jose de Aguayo, San Juan Capistrano, 
San Francisco de la Espada and San Fernando Missions 
still stand, in and near San Antonio, most of them in pic- 
turesque ruins. The Mission of San Antonio de Valero, 
after being secularized by the Spanish Government, in 
1793, became a military garrison, and received a deathless 
renown under the name of the Alamo. 

After the United States bought Louisiana from France, 
it became a grave question as to where that territory ended 
on the west. Spain limited it to the Sabine, America claimed to the Rio Grande, and a 
neutral ground was fixed from the Sabine to Arroyo Hondo, until (in 1819) the Sabine be- 
came the border. For many years revolutionary forays were made into Texas, by Magee, 



Militia (Disciplined) 

Counties 

Post-offices, . . . 
Railroads (miles), . 

Capital 

Gross Yearly Earnings, . 
Vessels 229 

Tonnage, 9iS8g 

Manufactures (yearly), $20,719,928 

Operatives 12,159 

Yearly Wages, . . . $'5,343,087 
Farm Land (in acres), . ^6,303.454 
Farm-I,and Values, . $170,468,886 

Farm Products (yearly) $64,204,329 
Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 340,000 

Newspapers, 542 

Latitude, . . 25° 51 ' I'l 36° 30' N. 
Longitude, . 93°27' to io6''40' W. 
Temperature, . . . —14° to 103° 
Mean Temperature (Austin), 67° 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS. (CENSUS OF i8go.) I 

Dallas, 38,067 

San Antonio, 37,673 

Galveston, 29,084 



Houston, 
Fort Worth, 
Austin, 
Waco, 
Laredo, . 
Henison, 
Kl Paso, . 



27,557 
23,076 
14.575 
14.445 
11,319 
10,958 
10,338 



8l2 



KING'S ir AND BOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SAN ANTONIO : THE ALAMO. 



Kemper, Gutierrez, Bean, Toledo, Perry, Long, Auzy, and 
Mina, attended with heavy fighting and hideous massacres. 
Under these inflictions, and the attacks of the powerful In- 
dian tribes, Texas became almost a desert, and Mexico 
deemed it wise to invite immigrants from the United States. 
After 1820 colonies of American farmers settled along the 
Sabine and Colorado, and ten years later 20,000 of these 
hardy adventurers had pitched their tents here. The flourish- 
ing American colonies sent Gen. Austin to Mexico, in 1833, ^° ^^k that Texas might be ad- 
mitted as a State of the Mexican Union. But Austin was thrown into prison, and troops 
marched from Mexico to disarm the Texans and arrest their civic officials. The officials of 
Coahuila fof which Texas was a part dependency) also annoyed the spirited pioneers in 
many ways, and the centralizing policy of Santa Anna threatened to obliterate the last 
vestige of their freedom. The United States had made two attempts to buy Texas, in 1827 
and 1829, but without success. At last, the fiery Southerners who had made this land their 
home rose in armed revolution, and in 1835 overthrew their Mexican tyrants, inflicting 
serious defeats upon them at Gonzales and Goliad, and storming San Antonio. After they 
had all been driven out, the Texans proclaimed their country to be a free and independent 
republic. As soon as possible, Santa Anna, the President of Mexico, led 7,500 troops 
across the Rio Grande, and in 1836 cruelly massacred the surrendered Texan command at 
Goliad. Marching upon San Antonio, "the Napoleon of the West" bombarded and 
stormed the Alamo, and after a bitter fight (in which he lost 1,500 men) he slew all its de- 
fenders, Travis and Crockett and Bowie, and 170 other Texan heroes. Thermopylce had he?- 
messenger of death : The Alamo had none. Gen. Houston, a Fabian leader, retreated far 

into the country, and when the pursuing army got 
where he wanted it to be, at San Jacinto, he annihilated 
it, and captured Santa Anna. Mexico kept up a weary 
warfare against Texas- for years, and as late as 1842, 
successive armies under Vasquez and Woll captured 
San Antonio; and Gen. Ampudia and the Yucatan Regi- 
ment overwhelmed Fisher's Texans at Mier. This de- 
sultory struggle exhausted the credit of the new repub- 
lic, and many of its citizens favored an Anglo-French 
protectorate, to deliver it from Mexican hostility and 
American annexation. The Republic of Texas extended 
from the Sabine to the Rio Grande, the present eastern Pan-Handle boundary reaching then 
northward to the Arkansas River, while the western boundary (as claimed) followed the 
Rio Grande to its head, and thence ran due north to the Arkansas Valley. This domain 
included the greater part of New Mexico (all east of the Rio Grande), and parts of Colo- 
rado and Kansas, together with No Man's Land. 

The independence of Texas was acknowledged by France (in 1837), the United States 
(in 1839), Great Britain (in 1840), Holland, and other powers, whose ambassadors resided 
at Austin. After ten years of national life, Texas joined the American 

Republic, on the urgent solicitation of President Tyler, the 
annexation being opposed by Clay, Benton, Blair and Van 
Buren, and favored by Calhoun, Jackson and Polk, as likely 
to give the South a great preponderance in Congress. 
Texas claimed the Rio Grande as its western boundary, 
and Mexico endeavored to limit her to the Nueces. Gen. 
Taylor entered the disputed region with an army of oc- 
cupation, and the Mexican forces promptly attacked him, 
but received serious defeats at Palo Alto and Resaca de san antonio : mission concepcion. 




EL PASO : THE CATHEDRAL. 





SIERRA BLANCA ; 
TEXAS & PACIFIC RAILWAY 



THE STATE OF TEXAS. 813 

la Palma, after which Taylor crossed the Rio 
Grande, stormed Matamoras and Monterey, and 
won a heroic victory over Santa Anna at Buena 
Vista. Texas received $10,000,000 from the 
United States for the great domains west and 
north of its present borders, and the debt of the 
Republic and the expenses of the State for many 
years were paid therewith. It also received the 
right to divide into five States, if future develop- 
ment should require it. The imperial area of 
public lands within the State, Texas reserved for her own control and disposal. When the 
late civil war opened, the governor, Sam Houston (formerly President of Texas), made 
every effort to hold his State firm in her attachment to the Union ; but the people voted in 
favor of secession, 39,415 to 13,841. Gen. Twiggs surrendered 20 United-States forts; and 
the garrisons (2, 500 soldiers) with their arms were conveyed out of the State. Houston was 
deposed from the governorship, and then the State swung into the Confederate line. The 
war made little impress on this imperial domain, which happily lay outside of its appalling 
struggles. The Federal fleet and army occupied Galveston, October 4, 1862, but were 
driven out three months later, with heavy losses, and the Confederates held the port until 
the end of the war. The National fleets were twice repulsed from Sabine Pass, by Con- 
federate cotton-clad steamboats and forts, and lost four gunboats. In November, 1862, 

Gen. Dana occupied Brazos San- ^ -. . 

tiago and Brownsville with 6,000 
soldiers from New Orleans, and the ^ 
whole coast except Galveston and ; .-: 
the Brazos River fell into the hands d-^ 
of the Federal troops. These use- 
less garrisons were soon withdrawn 
(except at Brazos Santiago), and 
the navy alone watched the silent 
coast. In the remote southwest Confederate troops aided Bazaine's French forces against 
the patriot Mexicans, who in turn raided along the Rio-Grande border, under Cortina's lead. 
The vast influx of immigrants and capital, and the development of mines, cattle-ranges 
and farms have raised Texas to the proud position of the richest State in the South. Since 
1880 it has far passed Kentucky and Virginia, its nearest competitors. A single county in 
the Pan Handle, which had but twelve families, now raises more wheat than the entire 
State did at that time. The immigration has come mainly from the older Southern States, 
left prostrate by the civil war, and finding in Texas the most promising outlet for the am- 
bitions of their young men. Many thousands of Frenchmen, Poles, Swedes, Germans and 
other Europeans have entered at the port of Galveston ; and great numbers of Northwestern 
farmers now occupy the northern counties. Texas hopes to outvote New York in the Elec- 
toral College, in 1900. She has a huge surplus in her 
treasury, and owns large areas of land besides. Among 
the chief local questions are the protection of wool-grow- 
ing, irrigation laws, the control of railways, and the con- 
struction of a first-class deep-water harbor. The State 
always goes Democratic, by colossal majorities, which 
have reached above 160,000. There are but three Republi- 
cans in the Legislature. 

The Name of the State commemorates the Tejas or 
Atayos Indians, first mentioned by the survivors of Pamfilo 
de Narvaez's expedition, who traversed their country in 1 536. 




TEXAS & PACIFIC RAILWAY. 




6AN ANTONIO : CITY HALL. 



8i4 



r/NG'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




GRAND CANON OF THE RIO GRANDE. 



Padre Paredes in 1636 reported the Tejas as being near 
the lower Brazos ; La Harpe found them on the Neches, 
in 1719 ; and Seale's map shows the Tecas tribe here in 
1750. This Indian word meant Friends, and was a 
generic title in Mexico, with the Tlaxcal-tecas, Cholu- 
tecas and other tribes. Some ingenious antiquaries, 
however, derived the title from the Spanish word Tejas 
("roof tiles"); or from the Celtic-Spanish Tehas 
("plain"), whence comes Dehesa, the great plain near 
Seville, and our word dais, whose original meaning was 
an elevated platform. The pet name of The Lone 
Star State refers to the device on the flag and seal of the Republic of Texas, which 
was adopted to indicate the political isolation of the Commonwealth. The first Lone- 
Star flag, of white silk, with a five-pointed azure star, was presented in 1835 to the Georgia 
Battalion, then fighting for Texan liberty. The seal and arms of the Republic showed a 
white star surrounded by live oak and olive branches, on a blue field, and is in use by the 
State to-day. 

The Presidents of Texas were Sam Houston (of Virginia), 1836-8; Mirabeau B. 
Lamar (of Georgia), 1838-40 ; Sam Houston, 1840-4; and Anson Jones (of Massachusetts), 
1844-6. The governors were James Pinckney Henderson, 1 846-7 ; Geo. T. Wood, 1847-9; 
P. Hansborough Bell, 1849-53; Elisha M. Pease, 1853-7; Hardin R. Runnels, 1857-9; 
Sam Houston, 1S59-61; Edward Clark, 1 861; Frank R. Lub- 
bock, 1861-3; Pendleton Murrah, 1863-5 ; Andrew J. Hamilton 
(provisional), 1865-6; J. W. Throckmorton, 1866-7 ; Elisha M. 
Pease (provisional), 1867-70 ; Edmund J. Davis, 1 870-4 ; Rich- 
ard Coke, 1874-6; R. B. Hubbard, 1876-9; Oran M. Roberts, 
1879-83 ; John Ireland, 1 883-7 ; Lawrence Sullivan Ross, 
1887-91 ; and James S. Hogg, 189 1-3. 

Descriptive. — Texas covers an area four times as great as 
New England, larger than France, Germany or Austria, and 
equal to six New Yorks or seven Ohios. It is 800 miles across 
it, from Louisiana and Arkansas to the Mexican States of Tamaulipas, Coahuila and Chi- 
huahua ; and 750 miles from No Man's Land southward to the Gulf The distance from 
Texarkana to El Paso is about the sam; as that from New York to Chicago. If the whole 
population of the Republic were to be transported to Texas, it would be no more thickly 
settled than Massachusetts is now. The Pan Handle lies between the Indian Territory and 
New Mexico. In a broad way, the State forms a vast inclined plain, falling away from the 
mountains of the northwest to the lowlands of the Gulf. 

The Gulf coast has a length of 375 miles, with a back country of 22,000 square miles, 
very level, and partly in forest and cactus chaparral, partly in open plains. It is cut by 
deep and navigable bayous and sounds, and shallow lagoons setting up among the sugar 
and cotton lands, and guarded, outside, by a long chain 
of low and narrow islands of white sand. Vast herds of 
cattle graze along the rich lowlands and plains, affording 
an increasing source of revenue. It is a sombre 
coast at night, for there are but four harbors with 
light-houses, and it is over 100 miles from the Gal- 
veston lights to the next beacon to the westward, 
at Matagorda, and an equal space between the Ar- 
ansas and Brazos-Santiago lights. Sabine Pass, 
seven miles long, is the marsh-bound outlet of the 
6AN ANTONiu P06T OFFICE. shallow Lakc Sabine, which covers nearly 100 square 




DALLAS : COURT-HOUSE. 




THE STATE OF TEXAS, 



815 




DALLAS : CITY HALL. 



miles. The General Government has built jetties out three 
miles into the Gulf, with the result of deepening the water 
in the Pass. Galveston Bay, including the shallow East 
Bay, the Upper Bay and Galveston Bay proper, covers 455 
square miles, and has a bar four miles outside of its en- 
trance, with only thirteen feet of water. The Government 
is now building parallel stone jetties, each over five miles 
long, at a cost of $6,000,000, with a view to deepening 
the channel, and admitting the largest vessels to the road- 
stead near the city. Matagorda Bay, sixty miles by six in 
area, is fast shoaling, and has only seven feet of water at 
its entrance. Aransas Bay and the four connected bays 
cover 350 square miles, and are entered by Aransas Pass, 

where the Government is building stone jetties. The fine breezy climate and pictur- 
esque beaches and cliffs of Corpus Christi, and the great commercial advantages to accrue 
when the bar off Aransas Pass has been cut down have drawn public attention and capital 
in this direction. The Laguna de la Madre is ninety miles long and eight miles wide, and 
its currentless waters undergo perpetual evaporation from the hot southern sun, so that fish 
die on entering it, and the low shores are covered with thick deposits of pure white salt. 
This product supplies a large part of Texas, and was of especial value in the old Confed- 
erate days. Outside, the sand-strip of Padre Island fronts the Gulf for 100 miles. 

Recently the Western Congressmen and statesmen have made a concerted effort to get 
the Government to construct a deep-water harbor on the Texan coast, so as to afford a 
marine outlet for their products, from 500 to 1,000 miles nearer than New York, and thus 
save $30,000,000 a year in freight charges. Galveston was the port selected for develop- 
ment, and careful surveys are being made of Sabine Pass, Aransas Pass and other possible 
ports, to find other sites for improvement in the interests of Western commerce. 

The rivers of Texas bear musical Castilian names, and several of them are navigable 
for 200 miles or more, at high water. The Sabine forms part of the eastern boundary, and 
may be ascended by steamboats 247 miles, to Hamilton. The Neches empties into Sabine 
Lake, after an unnavigable course of 350 miles. Galveston Bay receives the Trinity River, 
named for three uniting forks, and 550 miles long, with a trade carried on by 30 schooners 
and sloops, ascending as far as Wallisville. Many steamboats have visited Liberty ; and at 
very high water adventurous captains have ascended even to Magnolia, in Anderson County. 
The Colorado has been traversed by steamboats as far up as Lagrange. The Brazos 



River is 800 
high water 
by the Gov- 
Matagorda 
Antonio, re- 
ters Corpus 




FOIJT WORTH : CITY HALU, 



miles long ; navigable for 49 miles, to Bolivar Landing, and in 

for 255 miles, to W^ashington. Great sums have been wasted 

ernment in attempts to create a deep harbor at its mouth. 

Bay receives the Colorado, 900 miles long, and the limpid San 

enforced by the clear and rapid Guadaloupe. The Nueces en- 

Christi Bay. The Rio Grande forms the western boundary, from 

El Paso down to the Gulf, and is generally fordable above 

the point where the tides cease to flow. Steamboats ply 

between Brownsville and Rio-Grande City, 300 miles, weekly. 

Most of the rivers east of the Trinity are sluggish and muddy, 

and the rivers west of the Brazos are clear and swift. The 

running streams contain white and yellow perch, speckled 

trout, gaspergoine and catfish; and the lakes have black bass, 

cypress trout and raff. The fish of the bays include pom- 

pano, sheepshead, mullet, buffalo-fish, redfish, salt perch, 

angel-fish, horse-fish, and great quantities of fine oysters. 

Green turtles abound along the Gulf coast, and their steaks 



8i6 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




■'m0 p^ 



TEXAS & PACIFIC RAILWAY 
VIEW FROM ROUND-TOP MOUNTAIN. 



and eggs, canned meat and soup are exported to 
all parts of America and Pkirope, to the amount 
of $1,000,000 a year. Chinamen and Malays 
catch and export vast quantities of shrimp, 
which are sent away in boxes, barrels and cans. 
The sharks of the Gulf are hunted by fishermen, 
for their skins and cartilages. 

Eastern Texas lies east of 96°, and abounds in 
iron and timber, with vast pineries and oak and 
hickory uplands, and belts of magnolia and 
cypress, beech and elm, covering 45,000 square 
miles. Here are great areas of sugar and tobacco and semi-tropical fruits, and valuable 
stock-farms. Northern Texas covers 25,000 square miles, between 95° 30' and 100°, in- 
cluding two or three tiers of counties south of the Red River, and is rich in wheat and 
cotton. The central region includes the sandy lignite measures, and the water-sculptured 
gypsum-beds, resembling the Bad Lands, with miles of cedar and juniper chaparral, besides 
vast areas of valuable farming lands, varied by live-oak and cypress islands and wooded 
river-bottoms. The Cross Timbers are two belts of deep forest, of post oaks and black- 
jack oaks, each from ten to 15 miles wide, and separated by a rich prairie 50 miles wide. 
The Lower Cross Timbers is 135 miles long, running from the Red River, near Gainesville, 
southward by Dallas and Fort Worth, to Waco, on the Brazos River. The Upper Cross 
Timbers covers less ground, and lies west of Fort Wocth, running from the Red River 
north of Montague southward to the Brazos, with a branch 
veering westward into Palo-Pinto and Erath counties. 

The undulating zone of the black-waxy prairies extends 
across the State inside of the coast plains, and includes 
Denison, Waco, Dallas, Austin, Sherman and San Antonio, 
its boundaries on the Rio Grande being Laredo and Eagle 
Pass. The chief trees are live-oaks, with scattering mes- 
quite-bushes. This is the most densely populated part of 
Texas, with a breadth of from 30 to 60 miles, and a length 
of 700 miles, and an enduring soil. In this wonderful country corn, wheat and cotton are 
often found in the same field, thriving with equal vigor. 

Western Texas, between the Colorado and the Nueces, covers 50,000 square miles, and 
has 200,000 inhabitants. It is an undulating and forestless table-land, occupied by enor- 
mous cattle and sheep ranches. Southwestern Texas lies between the Nueces and the 
Rio Grande, up to the Rio Pecos, including 30,000 square miles, and 90,000 inhabitants. 
Millions of cattle and sheep feed on its rich native grasses. 

The Pan Handle covers 27,250 square miles (or 27 counties), north of Prairie-dog- 
town River, with 6,000 square miles of the fertile Red-River basin in the southwest, 
abounding in wheat and corn, and along the south abrupt and broken gypsum hills, 
rising above brackish streams and salt-springs. Much of this great plateau is in bigh 

rolling prairies of deep black and reddish-brown 
4 . loam, cut by the narrow valleys of many streams, 
and carpeted with rich grasses. The prairie-fires 
have prevented the growth of trees, except along 
the streams. Land in this region is sold by the 
State at from $2 to $3 an acre, payable in 20 
years ; and thousands of farmers are now settling 
here to raise wheat and other grains, vegetables 
- 1§S»-^''^"^""f ~'^''^'' and fruits. The climate is balmy and salubrious, 

PACIFIC RAILWAY BIG SPRINGS without malaria or consumption in the air, and 




AUSTIN : UNIVERSITY OF TEXAS. 




THE STATE OF TEXAS. 



817 




has a bracing coolness, on account of its 
great elevation, which is from 2,500 to 4,000 
feet above the sea. 

The Staked Plains (or Llano Estacado) 
cover a broad area of the Pan Handle, on the 
west, south of the Canadian River, and ex- 
tending over into New Mexico. Here the 
Great Plains come down into Texas, smooth 
and woodless, with no surface water except 

ponds, many of which are salty. The light lumber mill on line of Houston & texas central r r 
and porous soil produces vast quantities of rich gramma grass, and. large herds find pastur- 
age, getting abundant water from drilled wells and artificial reservoirs. These great 
steppes break off on the east in irregular escarpments. The Canadian River and Rio Pecos 
and the head waters of the Brazos have gashed the land with deep canons ; and the Red 
River rises in the Palo-Duro Cafion, ten miles south of Amarillo, and flows for 90 miles 
in a rocky gorge, filled with a dense forest of red cedar. It is said that the name of this 
vast plateau arose from the line of poles or stakes fixed across it by the Spanish traders of 
the Rio Grande, as a guide for travellers across the unpeopled wastes, especially from Santa 
Fe to the Red River and to San Antonio. Others refer the name to the stake-like cacti. 
The rough mountains of Llano and San Saba run off southward into a broken region of white 
limestone, Mexican in its bleakness, tropical heat and loneliness. On the west stretches a 

waterless plain, from which rise 
picturesque limestone buttes. 

The country between the Rio 
Pecos and the Rio Grande includes 
eight large counties, made up of 
long mountain ranges, with poorly 
watered and thinly populated val- 
leys, oftentimes of singular land- 
scape beauty. Guadalupe Peak is 
9,000 feet high. The Limpia and Guadalupe ranges are overgrown with great yellow and 
nut pines, amid which roam mule-deer and Rocky-mountain sheep. Immense basaltic cliffs 
look down on lonely plains covered with wild grass, cactus and mesquite, where scores of 
rivers, flashing down out of the hills with full currents, fade away and disappear. Under the 
silver-veined Sierra Diablo lies the broad valley of the Salt Lakes ; and other great saline 
pools lie near the Sierra Carrizo. This wild mountain-land between the Pecos and Rio 
Grande covers over 30,000 square miles, and is nearly as large as Maine, Indiana or South 
Carolina. Since 1886 it has received a large immigration, although agriculture here must 
be carried on generally by the aid of irrigating canals. 

The mineral waters of Texas are of great variety, and have caused the upbuilding of 
scores of health-resorts. Sour Lake, east of Houston, covers four acres, and contains sul- 
phur, alum and iron, giving great benefit in cases of rheumatism and cutaneous diseases. 
It is used in bathing. The Piedmont Springs, near Nava- 
sota, are mild sulphur waters. The Sour Springs, near 
Luling, are rich in medicinal virtue, especially for biliary 
troubles and rheumatism. Sutherland Springs, in Wilson 
County, include seltzer, sour, iron, and black and white 
sulphur waters. Lampasas Springs, 60 miles north of 
Austin, have valuable white sulphur waters, in gushing 

fountains. The Wooten Mineral Wells, near Bremond, ^ 

yield considerable quantities of valuable waters for export. '— "' ** 

r^ . , • i-i ii r /-. I L J J 1 • CUTTING TIMBER ON THE LINE OF THE 

Georgetown has sprmgs like those of Carlsbad, and ships Houston 4 texab central railroad. 




BAYLOR UNIVERSITY. 




8i8 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



thousands of barrels yearly. The town is prettily situated on the San Gabriel, amid romantic 
scenery. Boerne is in a mountain-glen 30 miles north of San Antonio, and 800 feet above 
it, with several hotels much visited by people suffering from lung troubles. 

The Climate is remarkably varied, and has a wide range, from the intense heat of the 
coast and the Rio-Grande Valley to the snowy winters of the Pan Handle. The mean an- 
nual rainfall of El Paso is nine inches ; that of Galveston is 51 inches. The mean tempera- 
ture of Eagle Pass and Galveston is 70° ; of Fort Concho, 64° ; of Denison and Fort Elliott, 
54°; of Fort Ringgold, 73.4°; of Austin and El Paso, 68°. Inland from the black-prairie 
region the rainfall decreases to a point inadequate for farming. The southerly and south- 
easterly Gulf winds that blow continually across the State alone make it habitable in sum- 
mer. A singular and disagreeable feature of the winters is the norther, a bitterly cold wind 
from the north, cutting sharply through the bland atmosphere, and lasting three days 
(and sometimes longer). These biting blasts drive the people into their overcoats, even 
among the oleander-groves of San Antonio and Corpus Christi ; and bring great peril to 
seamen on the Gulf. San Antonio and many other localities are famous for their exemp- 
tion from pulmonary and bronchial diseases, and have become favorite resorts for invalids, 
who find healing in their gentle air. The Rio-Grande Valley and Western Texas have a 
^ much more torrid climate, reaching its climax in May, for half of 
which month the temperature holds above 100°, sometimes reach- 
mg 116°. The wmters here are also colder than on the coast. 

Minerals of value are found in many localities, and especially 
in the Trans-Pecos country, where there are gold-mines in Presidio 
County, and several silver-mines in the Quitman Mountains and 
tliL SitiKi Diablo and Sierra Carrizo. The choicest of magnetic 
iron ore has been found in Mason County; 
and there are inexhaustible deposits in 
Llano and Burnet Counties, and along the 
Kio Grande. Hematite ores abound in 
Ivistern Texas, where there are smelting- 
wDrks and foundries, especially at Rusk, 
New Birmingham and Jefferson. The 
GALVESTON BEACH. bituminous lignite of the Rio Grande 

has a high value, and is mined at Eagle Pass and San Tomas. Light fibrous lignites appear 
along the coast plain and the Rio Grande, in beds 20 feet thick, and covering great areas. 
The Missouri coal-field extends from the Red River almost to Austin, and is mined at Gor- 
don, Strawn and other places, although rather slaty and sulphurous. The copper deposits 
of the Wichita country extend for many leagues, and have been exploited in Archer County. 
There are valuable copper veins in the Llano and Trans-Pecos districts, where lead is also 
found. The largest and purest deposits of massive gypsum in North America occur on the 
White Hills, along the headwaters of the Red River, above the Abilene country, covering 
200 miles square. The cement-mills of Austin and San Antonio send their products as far 
as California, besides supplying the extensive local demand. Salt-mines are worked at 
Colorado City and El Paso, and at the Grand Saline, 100 miles east of Dallas. There is a 
wonderful salt lake in Hidalgo County, a mile across, which has been for generations visited 
by Mexican carts ; and large supplies are obtained from the lagoons about Brownsville and 
Corpus Christi. 

The red or pink granite of the State Capitol abounds in Burnet County, and variegated 
and gray granites occur elsewhere. Marble is found in coralline, mahogany, orange-red 
and blue crystalline varieties, with white marble in Burnet, Travis and San Saba and around 
the beautiful Marble Falls of the Colorado. Sandstone, yellow and gray, brown and black, 
is largely quarried at Parker, in Travis, and used in the best buildings of Austin and Dallas. 
Petroleum-wells are in operation, near Nacogdoches, yielding a heavy lubricating oil ; and 




THE ST A TE OF TEXAS. 




GALVESTON : COTTON EXCHANGE. 



natural gas has been developed in large quantities. 
In the west are far-reaching caverns, filled with 
thousands of tons of bat -guano. In other locali- 
ties are found potter's clay and fire clay, kaolin 
and glass-sand, and manganese, soapstone and 
lithographic stone, mica and mineral paints, marl 
and asphaltum, bismuth and antimony. 

Agriculture is the business of two thirds of 
the Texan people. The eastern third of the State, 
with four fifths of the population, is devoted to 
farming, with sugar on the bottom-lands, rice 
along the coast, wheat on the black waxy prairie, and cotton and corn everywhere. Texas 
is the foremost State in cotton, having for ten years past produced more than 1,200,000 
bales yearly, mainly on the rich alluvial lands between Denison and San Antonio. Of 
the cotton of the world, the United States produces three fourths, or 7,000,000 bales a 
year. The enormous Texan crop finds its way mainly to the mills of Europe and New 
England, and yields nearly .$50,000,000 a year. The product of cotton-seed exceeds 
600,000 tons yearly, and employs many oil-mills. Mainly in the north, 5,000,000 bushels 
of wheat are raised yearly. It is sown in the autumn, and harvested in May and June, aver- 
aging 20 bushels to the acre, of good weight and quality. This harvest provides but half 
of the wheat used in the State. The corn crop has reached 27,000,000 bushels in a year, 
making this the fifth American State in its product. The yearly growth of oats reaches 
18,000,000 bushels, all of which finds a profitable home-market. 

The grapes of El Paso, apples and peaches of Eastern Texas, and bananas of Browns- 
ville are worthy of praise. The crop of prairie hay is 226,000 tons ; of millet, 1 18,000 tons; 
of sugar-cane, 200,000 tons; of hay, 94,000 tons. Among other large products are barley 
and rye, tobacco and sorghum molasses. There are over 8,000,000 acres under cultivation, 
in 40,000 farms, producing yearly $100,000,000. Only five per cent, of the farm-values are 
under mortgage, which is the lowest ratio in the United States, because homesteads cannot 
be mortgaged in Texas. The sugar-plantations on the Brazog River already produce yearly 
12,000,000 pounds of sugar and 1,200,000 gallons of syrups, valued at $1,500,000, and the 
business is only in its infancy. Sorgham sugar and molasses yields over $1,000,000 a year. 
Two thirds of Texas are pastoral, with enormous droves of sheep and cattle, confined 
in league-long pastures, or roaming free, needing only the food and shelter supplied by 
nature. Texas has nearly ij, 000,000 sheep, mainly west of San Antonio, kept in flocks of 
from 500 to 2,000 head, and securely penned at night, or guarded by dogs. They include 
great numbers of merinos. Texas leads all the other States in raising wool, reaching nearly 
25,000,000 pounds a year, valued at $5,000,000. 

Most of the timber lies in Eastern Texas, between the Trinity and Sabine Rivers, and 
its cypress, yellow pines, red and white oaks, live-oaks, hickory and pecan are rafted down 
the Trinity and Neches, San Jacinto and Angeline rivers. The pecan-trees of southern and 
western Texas yield yearly 9,000,000 pounds of nuts. Along 
the western prairies occur extensive and fast-increasing groves 
of scrubby mesquite-trees, furnishing abundant fire-wood, and 
a bean-like fruit, prized as food for horses and cattle. The 
wild animals of Texas are large gray wolves, pumas and jaguars, 
bears and wildcats, lynxes and foxes, deer and antelope, raccoons 
and peccaries, squirrels and hares. Troops of mustangs, -or 
wild Mexican horses, still browse in freedom along the western 
hills. 

Vast tracts are owned and for sale by the Houston & Texas 

GALVESTON : . . ■' . 

couRT-fiousE AND POST-OFFICE. Central Railway Company, in the Pan Handle, and in the 




KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



counties of Wilbarger, Fisher and Baylor, the prices 
being from $3 an acre upward, on easy terms of pay- 
ment. The soil is a rich chocolate loam, adapted to the 
growth of corn and cotton, wheat and oats, fruits and 
vegetables ; and good water is found everywhere. The 
land is about 2,000 feet high, well aljove the line of 
malaria, and in a genial climate, where outdoor work 
can be carried on all the year round. In the old days 
the cattle syndicates discouraged settlements here, but 
the advance of the railways caused an irresistible tide of texas & pacific railway cotton field 
immigration to flow in, and afforded the best of facilities for this great movement of the 
people, and for the shipment of their harvests. 

The largest single sugar plantation in the United States is Sugar Land, in Texas, per- 
taining to Col. E. H. Cunningham, an old Confederate colonel of Hood's campaigns, and 
formerly of Ellis & Cunningham, the noted contractors for convict labor. It covers 12,000 
acres of sandy loam, fully one third of which is within twelve feet of running water, which 




obviates failure in wet or 
estimated to yield yearly 
There is a narrow-gauge 
track and three miles of 
su^ar-house has two differ- 





SUGAH LAND : 
SUGAR CRUSHING. 



SUGAR LAND 



CUNNINGHAM PLANTATION. 



dry seasons. Its product is 
6,000,000 pounds of sugar, 
railway, with nine miles of 
portable track. The immense 
ent batteries and two vacuum 
pans, and a complete equip- 
ment in every other way. It 
is contemplated to augment 
the resources of Sugar Land 
by establishing a sugar-refinery 
and a paper-mill, favored by the deep water along 
the plantation. Cultivation began here in 1843, 
and during the half century since no fertilizers 
have been used, so rich and enduring is the soil. 
The products of Sugar Land have a high reputa- 
tion for their excellence in quality, and always command a ready market. 

Government. — The Governor and executive officers are elected every two years. The 
legislature is made up of 31 four-years' senators and 105 two-years' representatives, and has 
a sixty days' session, every other year. 

The State Capitol, the largest in America, and the seventh in size among the buildings 
of the world, is a vast Greek cross of red Texan granite, with a central rotunda crowned 
by a dome 311 feet high, above which a statue of the Goddess of Liberty upholds a silver 
star. This wonderful structure occupies the commanding elevation at Austin originally 
selected for the Capitol of the Republic of Texas. In the Capitol are preserved the treaties 
made by Queen Victoria and King Louis Philippe with the Texan Republic, and many other 
historical relics. In 1875 Texas offered 3,000,000 acres in the Pan Handle to any one who 
should build her a suitable State Capitol. This offer was accepted by Chicago capitalists, 
and the edifice arose between 1881 and 1888, hav- 
ing cost about $3,500,000. The Land Office of 
Texas, at Austin, controls the complicated system 
of public lands, and still has the disposal of 5,000,- 
000 acres of the public domain. Texas was ad- 
mitted to the Union as a State, without passmg 
through the ordeal of territorial government, and 
never surrendered her right of eminent domain. The 
National Government has no public lands in this 




CANE CUTTING ON THE CUNNINGHAM PLANTATION. 



THE STATE OF TEXAS. 



821 




AUSTIN : STATE CAPITOL. BUILT BY THE 
CAPITOL FREEHOLD AND INVESTMENT COMPANY, 



State. The Texas Volunteer Guard includes a divis- 
ion of two brigades, and has occasional encampments, 
in conjunction with United-States troops. The First 
Regiment is from Galveston, Houston and the south- 
east ; the second from Austin, Brenham and Bastrop ; 
the third from San Antonio and the southwest ; the 
fourth and fifth from Dallas and the northeastern 
cities. There is also a cavalry battalion, and a colored 
infantry battalion, each of five companies ; and the 
unattached Galveston Artillery. The Frontier Bat- 
talion has been reduced to three small companies of 
Rangers, one each for the Pan Handle, the upper Colo- 
rado and the middle Rio-Grande region, for the sup- 
pression of border raiders, train-robbers, smugglers and other lawless men. In bygone years 
this permanent force of State troops was much larger, and found plenty of exciting work. 

The State Penitentiary has 3,400 convicts, and is nearly self-supporting, although the 
yearly outlay exceeds $1,300,000. 1,000 convicts are worked on farms, and 500 on rail- 
roads, under the bad Southern system of contract-labor, the gangs being under 31 sergeants 
and 300 armed guards. Many of the convicts work at the iron-mines and furnaces at 
Rusk. The Insane Asylum is a great gray sandstone building, in a park of noble live-oaks, 
near Austin. It has 600 inmates. The North-Texas Insane Asylum, at Terrell, has 400 
inmates. The Asylum for the Blind and the Deaf and Dumb Asylum are at Austin, and 
have valuable educational departments. The Institution for Deaf, Dumb and Blind Colored 
Youths is at Austin. The State Orphan Asylum, at Corsicana, contains 200 inmates. There 
is a Reformatory Institute for young criminals at Gatesville, where various useful indus- 
tries are taught to the unfortunates, who may thus be redeemed from lives of wrong-doing. 
Education. — Texas has a princely school-fund, in bonds and lands (estimated at 
$100,000,000), and also school-taxes. The free schooK 
keep open five months in each year, with equal ad- 
vantages for whites and blacks. The lands are now 
being leased and sold to settlers as the country fills up. 
More than a quarter of the people above ten years 
cannot read. The Sam Houston State Normal School, 
at Huntsville, gives tuition and books free, and many 
of the pupils are nearly supported by State scholar- 
ships. There are 300 students, over 17 years of age, 
and pledged to teach in the public schools. The Prairie-View Normal School, in Waller 
County, is supported by the State for colored students, all the teachers also being colored. 
Carpentry, farming and dress-making are also taught here, and other industrial branches. 
The Third Texan Congress in 1S39 set apart for the site of a national University forty 
acres of land at Austin, and for two-score years this locality remained unoccupied, and 
bore the name of College Hill In 1876 1,000,000 acres of land were granted to the Uni- 
versity of Texas, which began its sessions at Austin, in 1S83. 
It has an endowment of nearly $5,000,000 worth of land, includ- 
ing over 2,000,000 acres, and its advantages are free to all Texan 
young men and women. The scheme of education combines the 
elective and class systems ; and the graduates of 24 high schools 
in the State are eligible for entrance. The university has a 
large building, but no dormitories. ' There are 18 instructors 
and 300 students, including 70 in the law school. The Agri- 
TEXAS i PACIFIC RAILWAY : cultural and Mechanical College of Texas, endowed by the 
PALO-PiNTo BRIDGE. National Congress, and opened in 1876, has a large domain and 




GALVESTON BALL HIGH SCHOOL. 




8: 



KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




SCENE ON HOUSTON & TEXAS CENTRAL R. R. 



cosily buiklings at Bryan, and is also the site of the 
Texas Experiment Station. There are 12 instructors 
and 200 students. The older Methodist institutions of 
Ruterville, McKenzie and Wesleyan Colleges and Soule 
University, founded between 1840 and 1856, were in 
1872 merged into Southwestern University, at George- 
town, on the plateau of the Colorado Mountains. It 
has 1 70 collegiate and loo preparatory students, and 40 
in the ladies' annex. Trinity University is an institution 
of the Cumberland Presbyterians, on the high hills of 
Tehuacana, and has loo students, with a preparatory 
school of 200, and a theological school. Baylor University, founded at Waco by the 
Baptists, in 1845, ^^^ 240 collegiate and 170 preparatory students. The Texas Wesleyan 
College is at Fort Worth : the Catholics own St. Mary's University, at Galveston. The 
Ball High School and the Henry Rosenberg School, at Galveston are of great efficiency, 
and have very valuable and efficient equipments. 

United-States Institutions. — San Antonio has been the headquarters of the United- 
States army in Texas since 1848 (except in 1861-5), and here a large part of the troops in the 
State are massed, for better discipline. The Quartermaster's Depot is a massive quadrangle 
of stone buildings, covering eight acres, on the hills zh 
miles from the main plaza. A handsome stone lookc 
tower rises in the centre of this square. The soldiers' 
barracks and officers' residences are in the vicinity. 
The San-Antonio Arsenal covers 20 acres, and sup- 
plies ordnance stores to the National troops in 
Texas. There are ten military posts in Texas, with 
nearly 2, 000 soldiers in the garrisons, covering the 
Mexican and Indian frontiers. The largest gar- 
rison (nine companies ; 527 men) is at Fort Clark, 
a quadrangle of barracks and officers' quarters on a high limestone ridge, 45 miles north 
of Eagle Pass. Fort Hancock, opposite San Ignacia ; Fort Concho, near San Angelo ; 
and Camp Pena Colorado, near Marathon, are one-company posts. Fort Bliss, near El 
Paso, and Fort Davis, near the Apache Mountains, are two-company posts. Fort Brown 
stands on a reservation of 358 acres near Brownsville, and looks across the Rio Grande at 
Matamoras. It is a three-company post, on a low and fertile prairie covered with chaparral. 
Fort Ringgold, at Rio-Grande City, five miles north of Camargo, Mexico, dates from 1848, 
and has three companies. Fort Mcintosh, a star-shaped earthwork in a bend of the Rio 
Grande, with sandstone and adobe barracks and hospital, guards Laredo and the crossing 
of the International Railroad. Fort Elliott is the only garrison in 
the Pan Handle, and has four companies. 

Chief Cities. — Galveston is the third cotton-shipping port in 

the United States, handling 700,000 bales yearly ; and its jobbing 

sales exceed $40,000,000 yearly. It stands among far-extending 

orange and oleander groves, on a low island, whose noble beach of 

over thirty miles in length can hardly be surpassed. The 

streets are but a few feet above the sea, which has at 

times poured through them in surging waves. The Mal- 

lory steamships run semi-weekly to Key West and New 

York ; the Morgan steamships leave weekly for Havana 

and New York ; and another line runs to Brazos Santiago 

SAN ANTONIO : ^"'^ Vera Cruz. The commerce includes the export of 

QUARTERMASTER'S DEPOT, u. s. A. cottou and cotton-sccd, wool and hides, tallow and lumber. 




HOUSTON & TEXAS CENTRAL R. R. : A SUGAR MILL. 




THE STATE OF TEXAS. 




HOUSTON ; 
HARRIS COUNTY COURT HOUSE. 




Houston, once the capital of the Texan Republic, lies on 
the narrow but navigable Buffalo Bayou, about 50 miles from 
Galveston. Great white steamboats and lines of cotton-barges 
pass continually between the two cities, over the bayou, and 
between almost endless groves of magnolias, Houston is the 
converging point of a dozen important railways, with immense 
machine-shops, cotton-seed oil-mills, car-works and docks. The 
Houston people are called "mud-turtles " by the Galvestonians, 
and retort by styling the latter "sand-crabs." 

Houston may become the mistress of an empire. It stands 
at the -head of tide-water, and on an arm of the sea, with 13 
concentering railroads and five more in process of development. They penetrate cotton- 
fields, which now, although not one tenth part developed, produce one fourth of the cot- 
ton of the United States ; a pine-lumber district, which 
holds one fifth of the merchantable standing pine east of 
the Rocky Mountains; a sugar territory of 10,000,000 
acres, more profitably productive than the famed, sugar- 
lands of Louisiana ; and a corn country three times larger 
than the State of Illinois. These are the staples, the growth 
of which makes States rich and their people prosperous. 
Cities are the certain offspring of this productiveness. 

The United States is naturally divided into three great 
longitudinal belts : the Eastern, bounded by " the Father of 
HousToti . MAhKET I ,LL. Watcrs ; " thc Central, boundcd by thc Rocky MouHtains ; 

and the Western, bounded by the blue Pacific. New York is the magnificent offspring of 
the Eastern belt. San Francisco is the golden gate through which flows the wealth of the 
products of the Western belt. Houston hopes to become the San Francisco, the New York, 
of the Central belt, the territory of greatest production at least 
cost. The tentacles of New York cannot longer hold the trade 
of the great producing West. Distance and competition, other 
things being equal, must regulate freight rates and interior trans- 
portation. The same process which built New York into a me- 
tropolis may build Houston till it shall be the third largest city 
in this country. Taking Kansas City as the centre of the Cen- 
tral belt, we find that it is 460 miles nearer Houston and an ocean 
roadway than it is to New York and an ocean roadway. A natural 
roadway from the Central belt to the Latin-American countries 
is by Houston. The wonderful advantages of location possessed 
by Houston to-day will continue. On the Texas coast will be at least three deep-water 
ports : at Galveston, 50 miles from Houston ; at the mouth of Brazos River, 55 miles 
from Houston ; and at Sabine Pass, 68 miles from Houston. The merchant, manufac- 
turer or broker at Houston will have the choice 
of these three ports from which to ship. 

Houston, in 1890, handled $20,000,000 worth 
of the cotton crop of the State, sending it aboard 
vessels, and out to the markets of the world. 
Along with it have gone 3,250,000 gallons of 
cotton oil, 60,000,000 pounds of cotton-oil 
cake, 12,000,000 pounds of sugar, and 1,200,- 
000 gallons of syrup. The Magnolia City handles 
directly and indirectly a yearly trade of 750,000,- 
000 feet of lumber and 100,000,000 shingles. 




HOUSTON ; 
COTTON EXCHANGE. 




HOUSTON . MAIN STREET. 




HOUSTON POST-OFFICE 



824 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Houston is a beautiful and healthful city, with a climate possessed of every charm of 
tropical countries without their excessive heat. .Flowers, fruits and vegetables grow in 
mid-winter ; and wheat, corn and cotton in mid-summer. 

Austin stands in an amphitheatrical valley on the Colorado 
River, within view of the blue Colorado Mountains, and has 
several important State institutions crowning its hills. It is 
built of light-colored brick and cream-colored limestone, and 
presents a cheerful and Parisian appearance, befitting its rank 
as a centre of Texan wealth, culture and education. Dallas 
lies on the turbid and tortuous Trinity River, amid rich undu- 
lating prairies, and is the commercial capital of northern Texas, 
and the railway and trade centre of a region of 1,000,000 people, producing vast quantities 
of cotton, corn and wheat. It is the second largest market for agricultural implements in 
America, and has a general trade of $25,000,000 yearly. Dallas has 120 factories, with 
a capital of $2,700,000, and an output of $3,700,000. At this favorable point the Santa- 
Fe, Southern Pacific and Missouri Pacific railway systems intersect ; and here are the main 
offices of the Texas & Pacific Railroad. 

One of the modern achievements of Texas is the town of Oak Clifif, which has been 
called the Brooklyn of Dallas, and occupies the oak-crowned green bluffs 200 feet above 
that city and about three miles from its busy streets. Early in 1888 T. L. Marsalis, presi- 
dent of the Dallas Land & Loan Company, bought 2,000 acres of open country on this 
site, and built an elevated railway to it and a belt-line 
around it, running just below the cliffs, amid pleasant 
and attractive landscapes. He then farther equipped the 
prospective town with $75,000 water-works, many miles 
of graded streets, and a park of 125 acres, with an artifi- 
cial lake, and a casino and summer-theatre. The primeval 
forest has been replaced by a model city of many thou- 
sands of inhabitants, with 30 miles of streets, lined 
with 20,000 fancy trees, planted to contrast pleasantly 
with the selected and saved woodland trees. There are 
more than 1,500 comfortable houses, and many handsome 
stores, with churches and schools on every side, and the Oak-Cliff Female University, which 
aims to be the Vassar of the South. The citizens of Dallas show a great pride in this 
ideal suburb, with its high and healthy locality, wise plan, and valuable public institutions. 
The rapid advance of Dallas to the place of the metropolis of Texas has therefore been at- 
tended by a corresponding development in Oak Cliff, which in the brief space of three 
years has become a pleasant and attractive residence-city. The success attending Mr. Mar- 
salis's plan of founding Oak Cliff has given rise to many similar undertakings in the South 
and West, building up many a charming and prosperous suburban town. 

Fort Worth, on the Trinity River, near the northern edge of the cotton belt, and in the 
centre of the corn belt, abounds in artesian wells, grain-elevators, flour-mills, stock-yards, 
great railway repair-shops and many other important indus- 
tries. This is the headquarters of the Pan-Handle stockmen. 
As recently as 1879 Fort Worth was the terminus of the longest 
stage-route in the world, reaching to Yuma, 1,600 miles west- 
ward, and traversed by the mail-stages in 13 days. Denison is 
the chief trading-point for much of the Indian Territory, and 
iSEMpiJ an important railway junction, in a rich corn and cotton coun- 
try. It was founded in 1872, and has been largely advanced 
by New-England capital, invested in manufactories and land- 
QAK-cLiFF HOTEL- schcmcs. Waco, on the Brazos River, is a solidly built and 




OAK CUFF : OAK-CLIFF UN 




THE STATE OE TEXAS. 



825 




EL PASO ; INTERNATIONAL BRIDGE. 



prosperous manufacturing city, growing apace, both in popu- 
lation and valuation. San Antonio, the cradle of Texan 
liberty, is on the winding San AntOnio and San Pedro Rivers, 
with its broad plazas overarched by fine old trees and bord- 
ered by shops. The architecture is solid and ponderous, with 
an evident Spanish feeling ; and the venerable Alamo, the 
property of the State of Texas, represents the old missions 
and the War of Independence. This city is the foremost 
wool-market of Texas, gathering in nearly half the wool-clip 
of the State, amounting, in prosperous years, to 25,000,000 
pounds. San Antonio is the largest American market for 
horses and mules, mainly cheap animals from interior 
Mexico and the Rio-Grande ranches, and wild stock. Fully 75,000 head are shipped 
by rail yearly, chiefly to the cotton-planters and negro renters of the eastern Gulf 
States. Great quantities of hides and grain are handled here, and the city has a lucrative 
trade with Mexico. In the Mexican quarters of Laredito and Chihuahua, the visitor may 
study the manners and customs of Vera Cruz and Monterey and Acapulco, with their mar- 
kets and shops, cafes and churches. Alarconne founded Bexar (now San Antonip) in 1 718. 
The first colony in the State was established on the San- Antonio River by the Marquis de 
Casa P'uerte, and consisted of 16 families from the Canary Islands. The first Americans 
ever seen in San Antonio were Philip Nolan's men, captured by the Spaniards on the Te- 
huacana Hills in 1800. El Paso, on the Rio Grande, was a petty border-hamlet of 200 
people in 1870, but has since become an important manufacturing city, with large imports 
of silver ore, for the local smelters, and live-stock for the refrigerating company. It is 
about equally distant (1,200 miles) from St. Louis, New Orleans and Mexico; and here, 
at the famous old " Pass of the North," 3,800 feet above the sea, the Mexican Central Rail- 
way crosses the Rio Grande. Laredo, the great railway centre of the Southwest, has im- 
portant manufactories, and the immense car-works and machine-shops of the Mexican 
National Railroad, employing 1,000 men. A steel bridge crosses the Rio Grande to the 
Mexican town of Nuevo Laredo, and is traversed by electric cars. 

A large number of cities before many years will grow up in the Pan-Handle region. Over 
3,000,000 acres in this region are owned by one great corporation — the Capitol Freehold & 
Investment Company, Limited. This vast domain, probably the largest single holding of 
property in the United States, was granted to the Farwells of Chicago and Abner Taylor 
as payment for building the Texas State Capitol, which is one of the noblest public edifices 
in the United States. The lands are well adapted for agriculture, and late years have 
demonstrated that the Pan-Handle district is among the best for this purpose of any in that 
wonderful State. The company controls the lands, and has 150,- 
000 head of cattle on them at present, but the intention is to sell 
them to actual settlers as fast as that can be done. The Fort-Worth 
& Denver Railway traverses the lands, and three other roads must 
necessarily soon extend through them. Several prosperous towns 
are springing up on the line of the Fort-Worth & Denver route, and 
along the projected lines of the other roads; and this district will 
in a few years be a populous stock, fruit, and agricultural coun- 
try. The altitude of the land varies from 2,000 to 4,000 feet, and 
the climate is very salubrious, and equal to any in California or 
Colorado. The Capitol Freehold Land & Investment Company, 
Limited, is stocked for $10,000,000, John V. and Charles B. Far- 
well and Abner Taylor owning a large majority of the shares. Its 
American office is* at Chicago, and it has also an oflSce in London, 
GALVESTON : CITY HAUL, f^"" ^'^ '^^S^ ^"'^ promislug European business. 




826 



A'/XG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




THE 

DALLAS 

NEWS, 



GALVESTON : 
HE GALVESTON NEWS. 



Newrspapers are published in all parts of the State. Among them are nearly a score 
in the German language, half a dozen in Bohemian, and several Spanish papers. The 
Galveston N'ews was founded in 1842 by Willard Richardson, whose voluminous and faithful 

Texas Almanac has at once chronicled and aided the growth 
of the State for many years. In 1865, Col. A. H. Belo, a Con- 
federate veteran officer, rode on horseback all the way from 
Virginia to Galveston, after the surrender at Appomatox, and 
became associated with Mr. Richardson, whose entire in- 
terest in the paper he afterwards acquired. With the aid 
of Messrs. Jenkins and Lowe, he developed the N'ews prop- 
erty in many ways, with new presses, special trains, and 
perfect system for collecting news, until this became the 
foremost newspaper of the far Southwest. In 1881, Col. 
Belo secured a charter for a company to publish papers in 
Galveston and wherever else in Texas it might wish to ; and 
forthwith established another News in Dallas, 315 miles 
from Galveston, with a fully equipped plant, and an able 
corps of editors and reporters. The two offices are joined 
by telegraph; and perfectly represent and serve their respec- 
tive sections, besides serving their constituencies with the 
best discussions of State, National and foreign affairs. Thus two great daily papers more 
than a hundred leagues apart are successfully conducted by one company, to the great ad- 
vantage of the State ; and the swift daily trains running from Galveston to Houston and 
connecting points to distribute the Galveston A'ezus, are matched in Northern Texas by the 
Dallas Nezi>s''s special trains to Sherman, Denison, Fort Worth and other thriving cities. 

The Finances of Texas are upon a very favorable basis, 
on account of the enormous areas of land owned by its gov- 
ernment, and which are continually increasing in value, as 
the State grows more thickly settled. The most prominent 
of the private banking-houses of Galveston, and indeed the 
most important in the Southwest, is Ball, Hatchings & Co., 
at the corner of Strand and 24th Streets. This house has 
large transactions with many of the incorporated banks of 
the country, and it carries the name of Galveston to many 
remote places. It has a connection with the well-known 
house of Brown, Shipley & Co. , in London. The surviving 
partners of the original firm are J. H. Hutchings and George 
Sealy, both names well known in Texas. Both are prominently identified with many of the 
important enterprises of the city. Mr. Hutchings is president of the "Galveston City 
Company," which laid the foundations for the municipality of 
Galveston, 50 years ago, and from which all the land titles of 
the city originate. He has also been president of the Galveston 
Wharf Company, which controls the water front. Mr. Sealy is 
interested in railroad enterprises, and was the chief promoter 
and for a long time president of the Gulf, Colorado & Santa-Fe 
Railway, the sale of which to the Atchison, Topeka & Santa-Fe 
Company was made by him. He is a director in the Cotton Ex- 
change, and has other important interests. The transactions of 
the bank aggregate $90,000,000 annually. For nearly 40 years 
Ball, Hutchings & Co. have lent substantial pecuniary help to all 
Southern enterprises,' railroads, shipping, commercial and indus- 
trial, and they have fairly earned the preeminence they enjoy. 




GALVESTON ; BALL, HUTCHINGS 




Galveston; taylor compress co. 




DALLAS : CITY NATIONAL BANK. 



THE STATE OF TEXAS. 

The oldest financial institution in Dallas is the City 
National Bank, which received its charter from the State in 
[873, as the City Bank. Seven years later it was nationalized ; 
ind in 1886 it absorbed, by a consolidation, the Dallas Na- 
ional Bank. Its career has been successful throughout, and 
ts volume of business continually on the increase, until now 
t has the largest dealings, in all its departments, of any 
bartered bank in the Lone-Star State. The capital is $325,- 
000 ; the surplus $150,000; the undivided net profits, 
$27,000; the deposits, $1,800,000; and the totals above 
$2,300,000. Its exchange drawings for a single year have exceeded $16,000,000; and the 
stock is quoted at above $200 a share. This strong bulwark of Texan finance is managed 
with conservatism, and has the confidence of everyone, locally and abroad ; and much of the 
development of Dallas may rightfully be attributed to the influences proceeding from this 
powerful and sagacious bank. J. C. O'Connor is president ; and E. M. Reardon is cashier. 

Railroads were liberally subsidized by the State, with its public lands ; and when the 
civil war broke out, Texas had 400 miles of track in operation : from Indianola to Lavaca ; 
Houston to Galveston, Columbia and Millican ; Hempstead to Brenham ; Harrisburg to the 
Colorado River; and other lines. The old San-Antonio Road lay in an air-line from 
Nacogdoches to San Antonio, and was traversed for 200 years by Spanish and French 
smugglers, military forces, and traders' caravans, being the most celebrated road in the 
Southwest. In the north the famous Santa-Fe Trail crossed the Pan-Handle, on its way be- 
tween Missouri and New Mexico. The old overland mail-stage route ran from San Antonio 
to El Paso, 652 miles, and thence for 824 miles across New Mexico, Arizona and California 
to San Diego. The 1,476 miles were made in from 23 to 28 days, in comfortable stages 
drawn by five mules, and leaving San Antonio fortnightly. Through tickets cost $200, 
including food on the way. The line followed very closely the present route of the Southern 
Pacific Railroad, and the stages ran from August, 1857, until the war. 

The Texas & Pacific Railway is the great trunk line, connecting the seaport towns of the 
Gulf of Mexico with those of the Pacific Ocean. It operates 1,500 miles of track, extending 
from New Orleans westward to El Paso, on the Rio Grande, connecting further at Tex- 
arkana with the railway system of the Mississippi Valley ; at Shreveport, La., with the net- 
work of railways extending to the South-Atlantic coast ; at Fort Worth, with the lines 
extending to the Northwest, Colorado, Kansas and Nebraska ; at El Paso, with the lines 
running down to the city of Mexico and the various Mexican seaports, and with other lines 
extending to the Pacific Coast. It is a favorite Pullman- car route from St. Louis or New 
Orleans to San Francisco or Mexico, and to the tourist offers a magnificent array of 
varied and picturesque scenery. This route traverses 
the lowlands of Louisiana, a few feet above sea 
level, the heavy pine-forests of eastern Texas, the 
blackland prairies of middle Texas, the high plateau 
of western Texas, and the mountain-district in the ex- 
treme west, at an altitude of 5,000 feet; and passes 
through the prosperous cities and towns of New Or- 
leans, Shreveport, Texarkana, Marshall, Paris, Sher- 
man, Dallas, Fort Worth, Abilene, Colorado, Pecos 
and El Paso. This railway company also operates a 
steamboat line on Red River, between Alexandria, 
La., and Shreveport, about 300 miles. 

The Houston & Texas Central Railroad Company was the outgrowth of the enterprise 
of the sagacious minds of the city of Houston. Construction commenced in 1853. It had 
progressed 80 miles into the interior when the war put a stop to all railway building in 




TEXAS & PACIFIC RAILWAY : 
FORT WORTH : COTTON PLATFORM. 



828 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




i^i 



HOUSTON ; HOUSTON & TEXAS CENTRAL RAILROAD DEPOT. 



Texas. Active extension was resumed in 
1867, and the road was completed to Red 
Riverin 1873. The western branch reached 
Austin in 1 87 1, and the northwestern divis- 
ion reached Ross in 1876. Construction 
in those days was expensive ; equipment 
and labor were high, and Southern securi- 
ties were at a discount, and as a result 
debt got ahead of the resources. It succumbed in 1885 to financial pressure and loss of earn- 
ings, mainly owing to the bad cotton crops of several years previous, and passed into the 
hands of the receivers appointed by the United-States Court. The mortgages have been pur- 
chased by and the property sold to the Houston & Texas Central Railroad Company. Al- 
though since the Houston & Texas Central was completed in 1876 a number of new lines 
have been constructed, affecting the territory from which its main business comes, its ad- 
vantageous position continues to assert itself. In 1876 it carried 336,000 bales of the cotton 
crop of Texas ; in 1889 it carried 422,500 bales. This pioneer Texan line takes the traveler 
not only through the finest agricultural regions of Texas, but to and through many cities, 
such as Houston, Corsicana, Dallas, Sherman, Denison, Waco, Austin, Bryan, and Hemp- 
stead. These thriving interior cities show the rapid advancement of Texas in line of mate- 
rial progress, while Galveston, the leading commercial entrepot of Texas, is in easy reach 
of Houston by rail or water; and San Antonio, with its historic reminiscences and latter- 
day progress, lies but 70 miles west of the line. Operated in harmony with the Houston & 
Texas Central Railroad, is the Texas Central Railway, running northwest from Waco to 
Albany, at the foot of the Great Plains, a distance of 176 miles, through a picturesque 
region largely given to pastoi'al pursuits. Its northeastern branch runs from Garrett, on the 
Houston & Texas Central, through the great agricultural counties of Ellis and Kaufman, to 
Roberts ; also the Central Texas & Northwestern Railway arid the Fort-Worth & New- 
Orleans Railway, which connect the main line with the prosperous city of Fort Worth, 53 
miles distant, via the important town of Waxahacohie, and are the connecting links between 
the route of the Union Pacific from Denver to Fort Worth, and thence to Houston and 
New Orleans. This railway is one of the foremost trunk routes of the Lone-Star State. 

Cattle-Raising. — Texas raises one seventh 
of the beef of the Republic, sending enormous 
quantities to the North every year. The cattle 
exceed 4,000,000 in number, for the greater part 
long-horns. Texas also has 2,000,000 swine. 
The horses and mules number more than 1,000,- 
000. The largest cattle ranche owned by a sin- 
gle individual in the United States is the famous 
Santa Gertrudes, founded by Capt. Richard 
KINGS SANTA GERTRUDES RANCHE THE PADDOCK. King, in 1853, and HOW belonging to his widow, 
Mrs. H. M. King, and managed by his son-in-law, 
Robert J. Kleberg. Forty miles southwest of 
Corpus Christi in Nueces and Cameron counties 
are the 700,000 acres of this private principality, 
fronting on the bay for 40 miles, and enclosed 
elsewhere by over 300 miles of wire-fence. The 
herds include over 100,000 head of cattle, mostly 
improved by short-horns; and there are also 3,000 
brood-mares, which are bred largely to the French 
Percherons. The laborers of the estate number 
200 fearless cow-boys, for whose use there are 





KING'S SANTA GER7 



THE STATE OF TEXAS. 




bANTA GERTRUDES RANCHE 
MRS H M KING S RESIDENCE 




and leases 300,000 
and Cottle, Dickens 
herds number 100,- 
t^riaded with Here- 
ni first quality and 
(lied cowboys take 
which 150,000 cat- 
tlor has been one of 
raising companies. 



MATADOR RANCHE 
COWBOYS. 



829 

1,200 saddle-horses, besides many farmers, who 
by the use of improved implements cultivate and 
produce the large amount of grain and other pro- 
ducts consumed upon the ranche. Capt. King 
founded the first large ranche in the Southwest, 
and, having no other to model by, he had to de- 
vise his own plan and equipment, and so be- 
came truly the pioneer of an industry which has 
since grown into such immense proportions and 
importance. 

A typical Texas cattle-ranche is that of the 
Matador Land & Cattle Company, Limited, which 
was organized in Scotland in 1882, under the laws of Great Britain, and has a paid-in capi- 
tal of $2,500,000 (^£^00,006), and a surplus reserve of $100,000. This wealthy cor- 
poration owns 450,000 acres 
acres more, mainly in Motley 
and Floyd counties. Their 
000 cattle, well-bred and 
ford and Shorthorn stock, 
immense value. One hun- 
care of these vast herds, from 
tie have been sold. TheMata- 
the most successful of cattle- 
having held its position 
throughout the long period of 

depression in the business, and paying handsome 
dividends. In due time its imperial domains will 
be subdivided into stock and grain farms, having 
a fertile soil and ready access to markets. Ex- 
perimental farms and vineyards have already been 
established by the company, to help in this con- 
summation. The post-office is Matador, Motley ;, t . lains. 
County, Texas, and the properties are in the Pan-Handle region, which is now being rapidly 
settled up by a fine class of farmers. 

Lumber. — Sabine Pass is the export-route of the Texas Tram & Lumber Company, of 
Beaumont, whose dealings in long-leaf yellow pine in many forms are of vast exte- Their 
saw-mills have a yearly capacity of 50,000,000 feet, and their planing-mills hav a capacity 

of 45,000,000 feet; and 700 men are employed. 
The resources exceed $1,000,000. The company 
owns many leagues of pineries, in Jasper and New- 
Ion, Tyler and Hardin counties, and has 25 miles 
of well-equipped steel railway, upon which to 
carry the logs to the mills. It has built up a very 
valuable foreign trade, exporting rough and dressed 
lumber, railway bridge-timbers and cross-ties, car 
siding and decking, to many distant ports. The 
company was founded in 1881, and has made rapid 
and successful progress, in wealth, facilities for 
shipment, system of grading and quality of lumber. 
The yellow-pine lumber of the Texas Tram & Lumber Company is of the best and most 
valuable quality ; and yet the facilities for manufacture and shipment arc so perfect that it is 
sold at prices which make competition very difficult. 





TEXAS TRAM 4. LUMBER COMPANY : LOADING TIMBER. 



830 



KIXG'S HA XD BOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Vnothtr immense iiid 
business was founded in 1877 
s o u t h c a s t e 1 n Texas, b\ 
formerly in the same industry 




TEXAS TRAM i LUMBER CO.: A LOGGERS' CABIN. 



notable lumber 
at Orange, in 
Lutcher& Moore, 
a t Williamsport 
(Penn.). By in- 
troducing the 
Northern boom 
I system on the Sa- 
bine River, they 
make it easy to 
biin^ diA\n 600,000 fcLt of logs daily, and so 
to supph thtir Star iiul Ciescent Mills. The 
Lompinv owns its mills, employing 325 men: a 
facloiy making ioo,ooo shingles daily ; 240,000 
acres of Calcasieu pine-lands; 20,000 acres of 
Louisiana cypress ; 35 miles of railway, with 
three locomotives and 80 cars ; several vessels for shipping lumber ; seven saw-mills, along 
the Southern Pacific line ; and lumber-yards in all 
parts of Texas. The shipments for 1890 reached 
the unexampled quantity of 100,000,000 feet, supply- 
ing Texas and Colorado, Kansas and Nebraska, and 
Old and New Mexico. The 



demand is so large that the 
mills have to be run night 
and day, and the white glare 
of the electric lights over- 
flows their vicinity from sun- 
The Manufactories of 
3,000, employing 20,000 
000,000 of capital invested. 
$40,000,000 worth of goods, 
worth of materials. The use 
is due to the need of pressing 
density, so that ships may 
and offer cheaper freights. 




<E LUTCHER 1. MOOf 
S STAR AND CRESCE 



LUMBER COM 
MILLS. 



Texas number over 
persons, with $24, - 
Thev make yearly 
using $23,000,000 
of cotton compresses 
cotton to greater 
carry more weight 
The Taylor Compress Company occupies 2\ city blocks (7^ 
acres) in Galveston, entirely covered with brick warehouses, all under roof, in which vast 
quantities of cotton are stored and manipulated. The company dates from 1876, when it 

introduced the most powerful and efficient machin- 
ery in use for compressing, and even these ingenious 
inventions they have now discarded in favor of newer 
ones, of still greater strength. Here lOO men are 
employed, preparing by steam and hydraulic cot- 
ton-presses, the cotton brought from interior Texas 

for its long vo)- 








t 

GALVEbTUN « LUK i^uvt^Hbob COMPANy 

Ladd, the piesident of the Taylor 
pany, and his associates at this tinv 
all the cotton compressing and wan- 
ton. With the continual and healthy 
the cotton-raising industry in Texas, 
in this direction must increase almost 




GALVESTON : TAYLOR COMPRESS CO. 



age across the At- 
lantic. W. F. 
Compress Corn- 
practically control 
housing in Clalves- 
development o f 
the field of labor 
indefinitely. 




Settled at ... . Salt Lake City. 

Settled in 1847 

Founded by Mormons. 

Became a State, .... 
Population in i860, . . . 40,273 

In 1870, 86,786 

In ]88o, 143,963 

White, 142,423 

Colored, ..... 1,540 
American-born, . . 99,969 

Koreign-born, .... 43,994 

Males 74,509 

Females, 69,454 

In 1890 (U.-S. Census), 207,905 



32,773 
84.970 



$105,000,000 

. . o 

■ ■ 25 

■ ■ 2S9 
. . 1,124 
. $4,324,992 
• • 2,495 



The first European visi- 
tors to Utah were Capt. 
Cardenas and his Spanish 
men-at-arms, who, in the 
year 1 540, reached the San- 
Juan River. The country 
of the Utes lay hidden amid 
her vast mountains, until 
its lonely plateaus were 
traversed by the Franciscan friars, Escalante and Domin- 
guez, who came hither in 1776, searching for a route from 
Santa Fe to Monterey, California. They reached the Utah 
and Sevier Lakes, and then turned back. In 1825 Great 
Salt Lake was discovered by James Bridger, a trapper on 
Bear River : and Gen. Ashley led 120 men from St. Louis 
through the South Pass and down to Utah Lake, where he 
l)uilt Fort Ashley. In 1826 J. S. Smith and 15 trappers 
marched from Great Salt Lake to Utah Lake, Rio Virgen, 
and San Gabriel, California. In 1833 Bonneville crossed 
northern Utah\ and in 1841 Bartleson's party of emi- 
grants, bound foi California, marched from Soda Springs 
to Corinne and into Nevada, misled by mirages, and per- 
turbed b' Shoshone signal-fires on the hills. Fremont's 
exploratij,ns of Great Salt Lake followed ; and caravans of 
emigrants began to move across, north of the lake, on their 
perilous and adventurous way to California. 

In the spring of 1847, after their expulsion from 
Nauvoo, 12,000 Mormons lay in camp on the site of Coun- 
cil Bluffs, and Brigham Young and 142 picked men marched 
westward to find a new home for their people, beyond the 
United States. After more than three months of arduous 
travelling, up the Platte Valley and through the South 
Pass, the pioneers reached the site of Salt-Lake City, and 
dedicated it to the Lord. July 4, 1847, the first immigra- 
tion, of 1,653 persons and 5S0 wagons, started westward from Council Bluffs. Year after 
year brought its new convoys of religious enthusiasts, until a powerful community had risen 
in this new Holy Land, with Utah Lake for its sweet Gennesaret, and the River Jordan 



Voting Population, 
Area (square miles), . 
U. S. Representatives, 
Assessed valuation of 
Property (in 1850), 
Militia (Disciplined), . 

Counties, 

Post-offices, . . 
Railroads (miles), . . 
Manufactures (yearly), 

Operatives, . . . 

Yearly Wages, . . 
Farm Land (in acres), . . 665,524 

Farm-Land Values, .$14,015,178 

Farm Products (yearly), $3,337,410 
Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . 19,750 

Newspapers 51 

Latitude, 37° to 42° N. 

Longitude, . . . 109° to 114° W. 
Temperature, . . . — 20° to 104*^ 
Mean Temperature (Salt-Lake 

City), 52° 

TEN CHIEF I'LACES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 

Salt-Lake City, ...... 44,843 

Ogden, 14,889 

Provo, 5,159 

Logan, 4.56'; 

Park City 2,850 

Springville 2,849 

Mount Pleasant, 2,254 

Spanish Fork 2,214 

Brigham City 2,139 

Payson, 2,135 




THE CRAG. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

flowing thence to the Dead Sea of the Great Salt Lake. Utah 
came to the Republic with the great cession made by Mexico in 
1848, and in 1850 was formed into a Territory, including, besides 
its present area, Nevada north of 37°, and Colorado and Wyom- 
ing west of the Rocky Mountains, as far north as 42"^. In 1857 
the Federal officials left Utah, professedly in fear of their lives ; 
and the Territory was regarded as in insurrection. In July the 
American Army of Utah marched west from Fort Leavenworth, 
under Albert Sydney Johnston, to chastise the Mormons into sub- 
mission. Gen. Wells, with 1,250 soldiers of the Nauvoo Legion, 
fortified Echo Canon ; and the Federal army lay near Fort 
Bridger all winter, suffering severe privations. The Mormons 
captured and burnt their trains, and stampeded their cattle, and 
otherwise harassed the troops. In June, 1858, the Army of 
Utah, composed of the Fifth, Sixth, Seventh and Tenth Infantry, 
First Cavalry, Second Dragoons, and Phelps's and Reno's bat- 
teries, marched through the mountains and entered the valley. 
Salt-Lake City and the northern settlements were absolutely deserted by their inhabitants, 
and the rumble of the guns and caissons and the tread of the infantry were the only sounds 
heard in the streets. Over 30,000 Mormons had fled through the snows to southern Utah, 
bearing their household goods, and intending to retire to Sonora ; but Gov. Gumming fol- 
lowed this heroic exodus, and persuaded the people to return to their homes. 

In 1862 the Nauvoo Legion guarded the mail-routes, from which the United-States troops 
had been withdrawn for Southern service. In the same year Gen. Conner marched into Utah 
with the Third California Infantry and encamped for two or three years near Salt-Lake City. 
The Mormons have increased with great rapidity, from their prolific natural growth, and 
from the British, German, and Scandinavian proselytes converted to the faith by zealous 
missionaries, and brought to Deseret. They are devoted to a rural life, with many scat- 
tered villages, self-supporting and exporting nothing. Much of the trade in the Territory 
is carried on by Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Institution ; and other operations, such as 
dairying, farming and irrigation are advanced by co-operative companies. The Mormon 
vote exceeds 15,000, to 12,000 Gentile votes. Ogden is held by the latter party, and Salt- 
Lake City has been carried in the same way, but the farming country is Mormon. 

The National officials concede the sincerity and enthusiasm of the Mormon people, but 
fear the unlimited power of the clergy, and deprecate the presumed idea that the Church 
and its laws transcend the laws and edicts of the American Republic. The Mormons claim 
that they have sworn loyalty to the National laws, and that the persecutions raised against 
them are on account of their religious views. 
They have provided punishment for polygamy in 
their proposed State constitution, and now de- 
mand the privileges of Statehood, as due to the 
population and wealth of Utah. The Edmunds 
law of 1882 vacated all Utah elective offices, dis- 
franchised polygamists, annulled woman-sufifrage, 
and closed the jury-box to adherents of the doc- 
trine of polygamy. The Edmunds-Tucker law 
of 1887 confiscated all Mormon Church property, 
except some church buildings and priests' houses, 
and turned its proceeds into the school-fund. 

The Name. — Utah is an Indian word, meanin<. 
Mormons called their State Deseret, which means ' 
from the Book of Mormon. 




CASTLE GATE. 



"A home on a mountain-top." The 
'The Honey-Bt'e. " The word is taken 
Utah is also called The Inter-Mountain Territory. 



TflE STATE OF UTAH. 



833 




GREAT SALT LAKE I GARFIELD BEACH AND GIANTS' CAVE. 



The Arms of Utah, adopted in 1850, hear an old-fashioned conical 

bee-hive, on a stand surrounded by flowers, and with bees hovering about 

it, emblematic of the industry of the people. 

The Governors have been : Territo- --'"ZZ^ 

rial, Brigham Young, 1850-4 ; E. J. Step- 
toe, 1854-7 ; Alfred Gumming, 1857-61; 

J. W. Dawson, 1861; Stephen S. Harding, , 

1861-4; Jas. D. Doty, 1864-5; Chas. ^ ^ 

Durkee, 1865-9 ; J. Wilson Shaffer, 1869- "~ 

71 ; Geo. L. Woods, 1871-3 ; Samuel B. 

Axtell, 1873-5 ; G. W. Emery, 1875-9 ; ^ 

E. H. Murray, 1879-86 ; C. W. West, ~ 

1886-9, and A. L. Thomas, 1889-93. The 

fust State Governor was Heber M. Wells. 

The President of the Mormon hierarchy is Wilford Woodruff, a venerable man from 

Connecticut. The Presiding Bishop, Wm. B. Preston, is a Virginian. The tithes of the 
Church yearly reach $700,000, which is used in schools, missions, char- 
ities, and the work on temples. The official statistics report the Mormon 
Church as consisting of twelve apostles, 70 patriarchs, 3,919 high priests, 
11,805 elders, 2,069 priests, 2,292 teachers, 11,610 deacons, 119,915 
officers and members, and 49,303 children. The Mormon Church pro- 
claims itself to be a theo-democracy, resting upon the will of God and 
the voluntary consent of the people. 

The Book of Mormon is one third as large as the Bible, and con- 
tains 16 sacred books. It tells of the coming of the Jaredites to Amer- 
ica, after the confusion of tongues at Babel (B. C. 2,100), and their de- 
struction for evil behavior, 1,500 years later. The prophet Ether wrote 
their history, which was found by a second colony, led from Jerusalem 
by the just man Lehi (B. C. 600), landing in Chile, and populating 
North America. In time this people separated into the favored and 
blessed Nephites and the degenerate Lamanites. About A. D. 400, 
the Nephites became evil, and were destroyed by the Lamanites, who 

relapsed into savagery, and became the progenitors of the Indians. It is claimed that the 

books of Ether were abridged by the Nephite prophet Mormon, who also recorded the his- 
tory of his own nation, and hid the tablets in the hill of Cumorah, where they were found 

by Joseph Smith, the founder of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints. Smith 

was slain in 844 ; and Brigham Young held the Presidency from 1844 until his death in 1877. 
Descriptive. — The general height of Utah is 6, 100 feet above the sea, and 5,000 square 

miles are more than 9,000 feet high. The massive and snowy Wah- 

satch Range comes in on the north, and runs southward, gaining in 

altitude until southeast of Salt-Lake City it reaches a height of 12,000 

feet. It is a very conspicuous range, and forms the eastern wall of 

the Great Basin. One of the chief peaks is Mount Nebo, 11,680 

feet high, south of Utah Lake. The canons of the Wahsatch, 

American Fork, Provo, the Cottonwoods, Ogden, and others, are 

full of picturesque scenery, and thousands of tourists visit them every 

season. The Uintah Mountains run east from the Wahsatch Range 

for 150 miles, between the Bridger Basin and the Uintah Valley, 

the chief summits being Mount Emmons, (13, 694 feet), Gilbert's Peak 

(13,687), Wilson's Peak (13,235), and Burro Peak (12,834). Two 

great plateaus fall away southward from the Uintah Range, ending 

in the singular Book Cliffs, the Azure Cliffs, and other receding 




ECHO CANON : 

DEVIL'S SLIDE 




ENTRANCE TO OGDEN CANON. 



834 KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 

plateau-fronts, richly and brilliantly colored, and frowning over the canons of the ('.rand and 
Green Rivers. Southeastern Utah lies on a line of plateaus from 3,000 to 11,000 feet high, 



broken by the amazing 
of sunless and lifeless 







OGDEN : UNION RAILWAY STATION. 



Grand Canon of the Colorado, and cut into by hundreds 

gorges, in some of which even the forming streams have 

died. The arid uplands are carved by Nature into 

;;., weird forms, and being nearly a mile above the 

/ ' sea-level they have but little value, ex- 

^^;^ ^^^K\- /■ '-'^P'^ ^'^^ g''a''-iiig- They bear singular 

Indian names, Kanab, Kaiparowitz, 
Kaibab, Awapa, Aquarius, Colob, Tava- 
puts, Markagunt, Masuk, Paunsagunt, 
Tununk and Yampa. 

The Cache and Malad Valleys, running northward from the Great Salt Lake into Idaho, 
and the Bear-Lake Country, are carefully irrigated and tilled, and shelter a score of Mor- 
mon colonies. The Salt-Lake Basin, 150 miles long, from Nephi to the Bear-River Gates, 
has a breadth of from 40 to 50 miles, and contains nearly all the population of Utah. The 
San-Pete Valley, the granary of the Territory, lies southeast of the Salt-Lake Basin, almost 
surrounded by rugged mountains, and occupied by Mormon villages. The valleys of the 
Sevier, the Rio Virgen, and the Jordan, and the Tooele and Utah-Lake Valleys have farm- 
ing populations. West of the Sevier and Salt-Lake Valleys lies the elevated plateau of the 
Great Basin, with its rivers dying in barren sands or salty pools, its narrow and craggy 
mountains, and weary leagues of arid desert. This huge table-land between the Wahsatch 
Range and the Sierra Nevada has no outlet to the sea, and its valleys contain lakes which 
fade away in the dry season to expanses of mud encrusted with salt. There are a score of 
mountain-ranges running north and south, some of them short, and others more than a 
hundred miles long. They consist of bare rock, with small forests of pine and aspen in 
their high and hidden canons, whose only inhabitants are elk, antelope, mule-deer and bears, 
with smaller wild animals. There are a few oases in the Great Basin, but nearly its whole 
extent is absolutely sterile, with no possibility of irrigation. The Great-Salt-Lake Desert 
fills a large part of this area, with 5,000 square miles of desolation. The forests of white 
pine on the Wahsatch, and red pine on the Oquirrh, and the grassy openings of the uplands 
are succeeded by the sage-brush and cacti of the west, and by broad areas devoid of vegeta- 
tion. These plateaus and desert lands are inhabited mainly by coyotes and owls, lizards, 
centipedes, horned toads, crickets, and other small and unpleasant creatures, forever free 
from the perils of human intrusion, in their vast and lonely solitudes. 

Great Salt Lake once covered 42,000 square miles, and its outlet flowed through the 
Snake and Columbia Rivers. It has been reduced to its present size by the evaporations of 
unknown centuries. The lake is subject to great changes in size, rising from an area of 
1,700 square miles in 1849 ^o 2,360 square miles in 1870, since which it has decreased. 
The average depth is 20 feet ; and the surface is broken by nine large islands and several 

islets. The saline mat- 
ter in the water varies 
from 13.8 to 23.4 per 
cent, of its weight, which 
is from four to six times 
the amount in the Atlan- 
tic Ocean. At Garfield 
Beach there is a popular 
summer- resort, with a 
band playing in a huge 
wooden pavilion, cafes, 

SALT-LAKE CITY I MORMON TEMPLE, TABERNACLE AND ASSEMBLY HALL. bath-hoUSCS, plCrS, UOtClS, 




THE STATE OF UTAH. 



S.^.; 




SALT-LAKE CITY BEE HIVE HOUSE 



and the usual holiday concmnitants. Tlie 
surf is long, low, foamy and hissing, and 
without undertow ; the waves are heavy ; and 
the water is warm and bitterly salt. Sinking 
is almost impossible, and people in bathing- 
suits float about on their backs, gently patl- 
dling over the surface, or treading with their 
feet in a semi-upright position, and bumping 
into each other, like canal-boats adrift. Hun- 
dreds of persons are seen here afloat at one 
time. The Oquirrh Mountains rise almost 
from the sandy beach, and other lofty ranges 
nearly encircle the lake, their rich browns fading into misty blues in the distance. The 
transparent waters assume a strange variety of hues, delicate greens, ultramarine and tur- 
quoise blues, and sombre blackish expanses. Off-shore, mountain-islands, like Antelope 
and Stansbury, one 16 miles and the other 20 miles long, rise 3,000 feet above this mysteri- 
ous sea, with cliffs of white sandstone and long grassy slopes. Many people have found 
about Salt Lake a remarkable climate, combining the light pure air of the snowy mountains 
with the salty and marine breath of the inland sea, and yielding in each inhalation the tonic 
properties of the Alps and the Atlantic. In the summer, the 
Utah people and tourists visit the lake by thousands, bathing 
chiefly and boating a little, in a salty sea higher than the Alle- 
ghany Mountains. The lurid and electric splendor of the sun- 
sets over the lake, the wonderful views from the promon- 
tory of the Oquirrh, the weird gloom of Giants' Cave, 
the lonely solitudes of the western islands, inhabited 
only by myriads of gulls and pelicans, the snowy harvests 
of the salt-farms, afford scenes of abiding interest and 
diversity. Garfield Beach is 22 miles from Salt-Lake 
City, and crowded excursion-trains run several times a 
day in summer, the round-trip fare being 50 cents. 
Syracuse Beach, and Lake Park, reached by rail, from Ogden, are the favorite resorts of people 
living near that part of the lake. Fremont was the first white man who visited this locality 
(then a Mexican lake), in 1842, reconnoitering the islands in a rubber boat. Eight years 
later, Capt. Stansbury carefully explored the lake and its bays and shores. 

Utah Lake is a beautiful expanse of fresh sweet water, 25 miles long and 10 miles wide, 
abounding in large speckled trout and water-fowl, and fed by streams from the Wahsatch 
Range. The shores are grassy slopes, sweeping up to the 
bases of the mountains, and occupied by hundreds of 
farms, and the Mormon villages of Provo, Lehi, American 
Fork, and Springville. Sevier Lake, 25 by ten miles 
in area, lies 100 miles south-southwest of Great Salt 
Lake, and receives the Sevier River. Bear Lake ex- 
tends into Idaho, amid the cold fastnesses of the Wahsatch 
Range, and surrounded by Mormon hamlets. 

The Grand River from Colorado and the JH ^' 

Green River from Wyoming unite in the east, -^^ mj^frfi^ljl 'ti 
each flowing in the bottom of a profound ^§;^~^.^,■-^■^^^.^^^^,'- 
canon, and form the Colorado of the West, '^ ' 

which pours its dark flood through Arizona ^' ■'f^' "-^-1 

to the Gulf of California, secluded in a series 
of gorges unequalled elsewhere in the world. manti : mormon temple. 




SALT- LAKE CITY 



5 

UNIVERSITY OF DESERET. 





VN^ 



836 



KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




OGDEN AND THE WAHSATCH MOUNTAINS 



The Climate is sulijcct to abrupt and wide variations Ijetween the seasons and between 

day and niglit. Salt- 
Lake City has a mean 
yearly temperature of 
51^°, and a rainfall of 
15.72 inches; but in the 
south and west and along 
the lower plateaus the 
rainfall drops below ten 
inches. The Wahsatch 
and Uintah ranges re- 
ceive a much greater 
amount of moisture; but 
the water falling on the plains is not enough for raising crops without irrigation. The 
temperature of the valleys is frequently mild and delightful, with an elastic and bracing air, 
although Cache Valley has severe winters, and the Rio-Virgen country is semi-tropical. The 
winters in the Basin are moderate, with light falls of snow, followed by radiant and verdant 
springtimes and early summers, and then by a heated term, with dry and dust-laden storms, 
failing streams, and the parching of all unirrigated vegetation. In the long autumn the air 
clears, and waves of splendid forest-coloring adorn the mountains, until the mantle of snow 
descends, and inaugurates the winter. A group of army surgeons commends the Utah 
climate, with out-door life and simple fare, for the cure of phthisis, asthma, chronic pneu- 
monia and bronchitis (without heart trouble), and consumption (when not too far advanced). 
The great altitude and low barometric pressure quicken respiration and circulation, and the 
dry air and cool nights invigorate the whole system. The Utah Hot Springs, ten miles 
north of Ogden, have a temperature of 125°, and are so impregnated with iron that all the sur- 
rounding ground is stained red. Beck's Hot Springs are three miles north of Salt-Lake City ; 
and the famous Warm Springs, with waters like those of Harrowgate, and strongly sulphurous, 
flowin the environsof the city. These resorts and others have been improved by bath-houses. 
Farming. — The arable land of Utah covers 3,000,000 acres, watered by 1,000 miles 
of canals. The Bear-River Canal will have cost $2,000,000, being 50 miles long, 20 feet 
wide and five feet deep. The paradise which the Mormons enjoy in their green valleys has 
been attained only by an enormous outlay of ingenious labor ; and if the irrigation-works 
should be suspended for but a few weeks the whole country would return to its natural 
desert state. Even now, in dry weather, Salt-Lake City is one of the dustiest places in the 
world, with the winds from the Wahsatch and Oquirrh Mountains stirring up its broad 
avenues. The irrigated lands are growing in area, and produce yearly 6,000,000 bushels 
of grain, 600,000 bushels of fruit, and 500,000 tons of lucerne hay. Wine is made on the 
Colorado ; raisins and almonds come from the Rio-Virgen country ; and cotton -fields whiten 
the valleys around St. George. The live-stock of Utah has risen from 500,000 head in 1876 
to 3,000,000 in 1890. When the grazing gives out on the lower benches, the flocks and herds 
advance to the higher ranges, finding millions of acres of fattening bunch-grass, until as the 
snow-line recedes they reach the cool plateaus and the grassy valleys of the mountains. 
When they retreat to the lowlands in the autumn the grass there has been cured on the stalk, 
for winter forage. 

^/lini^g in Utah between 1871 and 1891 produced $150,000,000, two thirds in silver, 
with !|40,ooo,ooo in lead, and the rest in gold and copper. Utah is next to Colorado and 
Montana as a lead-bearing country, and its yearly product exceeds 24,000 tons. It is found 
in all the mines, and is the chief source of the precious metals. The ores are of low grade, 
readily reduced by smelting. There are large silver and lead mines in the Wahsatch Range, 
around Park City, where the Ontario alone has produced above $22,000,000. In the Cot- 
tonwood canons are mines which have sent out $10,000,000. Bingham Canon cuts deep 



THE STATE OF UTAH. 



837 




WEBER CANON. 



into the Oquirrh Mountains, and tlic surrounding region is occupied by many mines, rich 
in low-grade lead and silver, with some gold. Juab County hides among its mountains the 
Tintic district, including the Eureka-Hill, Mammoth, and other claims, with their costly 
machinery and valuable outputs. The Horn-Silver chimney of ore, in Beaver County, 
produced 90 tons of ore daily for four years, valued at $13,000,000. There are other 
profitable mines around Frisco. Antimony and cinnabar are mined at Marysvale. 
(iypsum is mined and milled at Nephi ; geocerite, a singular natural parafifine, in the cen- 
tral counties ; sulphur, at Cove Creek ; saltpetre, near 
Springville ; and alum, near the Promontory Range. 
Elsewhere occur borax and petroleum, graphite and 
tripoli, fire-clay and kaolin, alabaster and lithographers' - 
stone, and other minerals. Salt finds a ready market 
for chloridizing silver ores. The evaporation of Great 
Salt-Lake leaves it upon the shores, to be re-absorbed 
l)y the spring-tides, or gathered into great snowy piles, 
ready for shipment. Over 40,000 tons are obtained in 
this way yearly. There are beds of rock-salt stretch- 
ing for miles along the Sevier. The mines near Nephi and Salina produce 5,000 tons 
yearly. Asphaltum is sent out from Spanish-Fork Caiion and from the Grand-River Valley, 
where it appears in molasses-like springs, in putty-like black masses, and in flinty lumps. 
Over 3,000 tons of gilsonite (a fine, dry asphaltum) are hauled every year from Fort 
Duchesne 80 miles to Price station, whence it is sent East to be made into lacquers and 
pavements. Of the building-stone, the most used are the marbles and limestone of Logan, 
the red sandstones of Red Buttes, the white sandstone of San Pete, the granites of Little Cot- 
tonwood, the green and purple slates of Antelope Island, and the flagging stone of Park City. 
There are enormous beds of lignitic coal near Green River, containing 40 per cent, of 
pure carbon. The deposits border both sides of the Wahsatch Range, and are utilized for 
stoves, steam and coking. The yearly product exceeds 250,000 tons. The chief iron de- 
posits are in Iron County and around Tintic, where millions of tons of ore appear. Near 
Iron City there is a belt of compact Bessemer ore, pronounced by Prof. Newberry to be 
'* unexcelled in intrinsic value by any deposits in the world." Copper is mined at Tintic. 

Government, — The governor and secretary are appointed by the President. The. 
militia of Utah was organized in 1850, as the Nauvoo Legion, composed of the First Cohort, 
made up of a regiment of cavalry and a battalion of life-guards, and the Second Cohort, in- 
cluding Scott's regiment and two battalions, with several artillery companies. In 1870, 
when it numbered 13,000 men. Gov. Shaffer forbade the jeview of the Legion ; and a year 
later its assembling companies were dispersed by Federal authority. The Penitentiary is 
near Salt-Lake City ; the Reform School, at Ogden ; and the Asylum for the Insane, near 
Provo. The Industrial Home, at Salt-Lake City, was provided by Congress for women 
renouncing polygamy, and receives also their children. 

Education has been maintained by the Mormons in schools. After the commissioner 
of public schools was made an appointee of the Supreme Court (by the Edmunds-Tucker 

law), the hierarchy founded several church-schools, 
where the Bible, the Book of Mormon and the Book 
of Doctrine and Covenants are used as text-books. The 
University of Deseret is a Territorial institution at 
Salt-Lake City. It is a high and normal school, with 
14 teachers and 330 students; and dates from 1850. 
The Methodist University at Ogden was founded 
ill 1890. The Brigham Young College is a Mormon 
institution, founded at Logan in 1878, and with 
260 students. Ogden has a large and handsome 




SALT-LAKE CITY 



AiUr i SMioan, . 

HOTEL ONTARIO. 




LOGAN : MORMON TEMPLE. 



lawns, gardens and orchards. 



838 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

military academy. Seven Christian sects maintain in Utah 100 scliools, with 230 teachers 
and 9,000 students. Five of these are academies, at Salt- Lake City ; and Proctor Academy, 
at Provo, belongs to the New-West Education Commission (Congregational). The Salt- 
Lake Collegiate Institute (Presbyterian) has 300 students; and St. -Mark's School, in 
connection with the Episcopal Cathedral has 450. Utah contains 65 non-Mormon churches, 
25 being Methodist, 15 Presbyterian, and seven each Catholic and Episcopal. 

The newspapers of Utah include nine dailies, at Salt-Lake City, Ogden and Provo, and 
40 others. Papers are published at Nepni, Logan, Park City, Richfield, Manti, Huntsville, 
Heber City, American Fork, Eureka and Beaver. 

National Institutions. — Fort Douglas has a beautiful situation three miles east of 
and 500 feet above Salt-Lake City, overlooking the Great Salt Lake, the Jordan Valley and 
the Oquirrh Mountains. The barracks and officers' quarters are of stone, amid 
pleasant lawns and orchards. The only other military post is Fort Duchesne. 
There are 1,900 Utes on the Uintah and Uncompahgre 
Reservations, in the northeast, covering 4,000,000 acres 
of deserts and mountains. They are blanket Indians, 
hunters and horsemen. There are roving bands of 
Shoshones in the north, and of Piutes in the south. 

Chief Cities. — Salt-Lake City rises like a beauti- 
ful vision out of the desert southeast of Great Salt Lake, 
with miles of wide and verdurous streets, refreshed by 
running streamlets, and small houses surrounded by 
The mountain-views are of unrivalled grandeur, and include 
the lofty Wahsatch Range, and the distant Oquirrhs. Temple Block, the Sacred Square, 
contains the chief Mormon ecclesiastical buildings. The Tabernacle, with a huge turtle- 
shaped roof, has seats for 8,000 people in its oval auditorium, and contains one of the 
sweetest organs in America. The Mormon Temple is a large and many-towered pile of 
grayish-white granite, on which over $4,000,000 have been spent. The Tithing House, 
the headquarters of Zion's Cooperative Mercantile Institution, the Assembly Hall, the En- 
dowment House, the Lion House, the Bee-hive House, and the Gardo House are near by. 

Ogden is the gate-city of Utah, on the Weber River, not far from the lake, with five 
railroads now reaching it. There are several fine public buildings, and prosperous shoe and 
woollen factories and railway repair-shops. Logan, near the beautiful Logan Canon, is an 
important shire-town, with a great Mormon temple. St. George, in the Rio-Virgen Valley, 
and the chief town of southern Utah, was founded by order of Brigham Young, in 1862, 
and has a Mormon temple of red sandstone, built in 1873-81. The alkaline desert has here 
been changed to a garden. Provo, founded in 1850, near Utah Lake, has woollen mills and 
foundries, and seems destined to be one of Utah's foremost railroad centres. It nestles at 
the foot of Mount lo, in a lovely crescent-shaped valley, bounded by the Wahsatch Range. 
Nephi, "the little Chicago," stands at the gateway of the San-Pete and Sevier Valleys, 
and ships yearly 2, 500 tons of wool, besides much salt and flour. 

The Railroads of Utah include the Union Pacific, from the Wyoming line to Ogden, 
73 miles; from Ogden to Frisco, 275 miles; from Lehi to Silver City and Tintic, 57 ; from 
Echo to Park City, 31 ; from Salt-Lake City to Tooele and Stockton, 37 ; and from Ogden 
into Idaho, 76. The Central Pacific has 157 miles of track, from Ogden to the Nevada 
line. The Utah Central runs from Salt-Lake City to Park City. The Denver & Rio- 
Grande Western crosses the weird plateaus of the Green-River country, to Salt-Lake City, 
with branches to the Schofield Coal Mines, Salina, Alta, and Bingham Canon. The San- 
Pete Valley line runs from Nephi to the Wales coal-mines. 

The Manufactures of Utah employ 5,000 persons, with ayearly product of $9,000,000, 
half of which is from Salt-Lake City. The Germania, Hanauer and Mingo smelters are 
south of Salt-Lake City, in the Jordan Valley, and have plants valued at $400,000. 




I/Qi 
315,098 
330,551 

332.2! 

331,218 



291,327 

4o,9';9 
. 166,887 

1^5.399 

. 332,422 

ile, 36.4 

95,621 

45.192 

I, . 16,788 

None. 



The first European to 
see Vermont was Cham- 
plain, who in 1609 came 
south from Canada, with a 
war-party of Hurons, on a 
foray against the Iroquois. 
]>y virtue thereof, this do- 
main appeared on the maps 
of New France, and was 
claimed by the French Government. The first colony 
from France established Fort St. Anne on Isle la Motte in 
1665, and was opposed by an outpost at Chimney Point, 
built by the Dutch from Albany. In 1724 Massachusetts 
troops founded Fort Dummer, in Brattleboro. After the 
conquest of Canada, in 1760, the little French settlements 
along Lake Champlain disappeared, and the Winooski 
Valley ceased to be the marching route of hostile war- 
parties, descending on rural New England. After 1741 
the district suffered separation from Massachusetts ; and it 
was claimed that the frontier of New Hampshire ran as 
far west as that of Massachusetts, and therefore included 
A'ermont. Gov. Wentworth of New Hampshire issued 
charters for 138 townships in the so-called Hampshire 
Cirants. But New York also claimed Vermont, because 
Charles II. 's charter to the Duke of York granted him 
"all the lands from the Connecticut to the east side of the 
Delaware Bay ; " and a new tide of colonists poured in, 
with titles issued by New York, endeavoring to oust the 
New-Hampshire grantees. The latter, under the direc- 
tion of Ethan Allen and Seth Warner, formed themselves 
into the "Green-Mountain Boys," and fought the intrud- 
ers stubbornly for many years. King George III. con- 
firmed New York in the possession of Vermont in 1764 ; 
but the outbreak of the Revolution impaired the value of 
this title. In 1775 Ethan Allen and 83 Green-Mountain Boys surprised the great British 
stronghold of Fort Ticonderoga, and compelled its surrender, "in the name of the Great 
Jehovah and the Continental Congress." Crown Point also fell into the hands of the 



Settled at );rattIeboro. 

Settled in 1763 

Founded by . Massachusetts men. 



Admitted as a Stat 
I'opulation in i860, 

In 1870, 

In i"" 
White, 
Colored, . . 
American-boii 
Foreign-born, 
Males, . . 
Females, 
In i8cio(U. S. Cen 
I'opulation to the square 
Voting Population, . . 

Vote for Harrison (i88i 

Vote for Cleveland (i8( 
Net State Debt, . . 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (i8go), . $'62,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 9,565 
U.S. Representatives (in 1893), 2 
Militia (Uisciplined), ... 784 

Counties, 14 

Post-offices, ... 545 

Railroads (miles), 921 

Vessels, 33 

Tonnage 5,255 

Manufactures (yearly), $31,354,366 

Operatives, 17.54° 

Yearly Wages, . . . $=;, 164,479 
Farm Land (in acres), . 4,882,588 

F"arm-Land Values, S;to9,346,oio 

Farm Products (yearly) $22,082,656 
Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, . . . 46,061 

Newspapers 81 

Latitude, . . . 42"44' 10 45°43' N. 
Longitude, . . 7 ["38' to 73''25' W. 
Temperature, . . . — 32" to 97° 
Mean Temperature (Montpelier), 43° 



TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR rOFU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 



Kurlington, 14.59° 

Rutland, . ' 

St. Albans 

Brattlebor< 

Barre, . . 

St. Johnsbury 



11,760 
7,771 
6,862 
6,812 
6,567 



Bennington 6,39i 

Colchester (Winooski), . 5,143 

Montpelii 



Bellows I'alls, 3.092 



840 



XING'S /HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LAKE CHAMPLAIN FROM ST. ALBANS. 



\'ermonters, who captured 234 cannon 
and vast military supplies, many of 
which were sent to the American army 
besieging Boston. Vermont troops 
attacked Montreal ; blockaded the St. 
Lawrence by batteries, at Sorel ; cap- 
tured St. Johns ; and joined in the 
assault on Quebec. In 1777 Gens. 
Fraser and Riedesel shattered the rear- 
guard of St. Clair's American army, at Hubbardton. A month later Gen. Stark and 1,600 
New-England militia defeated Cols. Baum and Breyman and 1,500 Hessian grenadiers and 
dragoons, Canadians and Tories, storming their batteries, near Bennington, and causing 
them a loss of 934 men. The Bennington Battle Monument stands on State-Arms Hill, 
at Bennington Center, commanding majestic views of the Green and Taconic Mountains 
and the Hoosac and Walloomsac Valleys. It was begun in 1887. The material is dolo- 
mite, or magnesian limestone ; and the structure takes the form of an obelisk, 301 feet 
high, with stairs inside, and windows to look out over southern Vermont. Two German 
cannon taken on this field by Stark's heroes are sacredly preserved at the State House in 
Montpelier. The British authorities endeavored to win over Vermont to their cause, but 
without avail, although Congress (influenced by New York) excluded her delegates in 1776 
and 1782. There is a tradition that Ethan Allen was 
offered the title of Duke of Vermont if he would make 
his State into a Crown province, and raise two regi- 
ments of red-coats for the royal service. Gov. Chit- 
tenden and Ira Allen sagaciously coquetted with the 
British authorities for some years, achieving the valu- 
able results of delivering the unprotected frontier from 
hostile forays, and of alarming the Continental Con- 
gress, which refused to acknowledge the Statehood of 
Vermont. As long as the United States ignored her, 
she claimed the right to negotiate with England as an independent power. On the 17th of 
January, 1777, the convention at Westminster declared Vermont "a separate, free and in- 
dependent jurisdiction or State;" and the anniversary of that day is still celebrated by 
loyal Vermonters, wherever they may be, wide-scattered over the continent. 

In 1790 the last differences with New York were happily adjusted, Vermont paying 
$30,000, in consideration of which the older State renounced all claims to her territory. 
Thus ended the long contest between the Puritans and Patroons, among the passes of the 
Green Mountains. In 1791 Vermont entered the Union, being the first State to be added 
to the original thirteen, the admission being warmly advocated by New York. 

In the War of 1812, Burlington was 
fortified and garrisoned, and 2, 500 Ver- 
mont volunteers joined in the victorious 
fight against Sir George Prevost, at Platts- 
burg. When the late civil war broke 
out, Gen. Scott said: "Give me your 
Vermont regiments ; all your Vermont 
regiments. I remember tht Vermonters 
at Lundy's Lane." The Green Moun- 
tains will long cherish the heroism of the 
Second Vermont at Bull Run, the famous 
First Vermont Brigade at Marye's Heights, 
BELLOWS FALLS AND THE CONNECTICUT RIVER. thc Wildemcss and Cedar Creek, and 




GREEN MOUNTAINS : MOUNT MANSFIELD. 




THE STATE OF VERMONT. 




NEWPORT : LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG. 



Stannard's Vermont Brigade at Gettysburg. 

Out of 37,000 enrolled militia, Vermont sent 

34,238 soldiers into the field, and lost 5,128 

dead, and as many more ruined by wounds or 

disease, being a larger percentage than befell 

the troops of any other Northern State. No 

Vermont regiment gave up its colors in battle. 

October 19, 1864, 22 Confederate guerillas 

visited St. Albans in disguise and robbed the 

banks, escaping into Canada with $200,000, 

after a hot pursuit. In 1866, 1,200 Fenians, "the right wing of the army of Ireland," 

marched from Franklin across the Canada line and in a day or two marched back again, very 

hungry. In 1870 another Fenian raid hence was repulsed by embattled Canadian farmers. 

The drain of population to the West has kept Vermont nearly stationary in popula- 
tion ; and in 1889 the State commission found over 200,000 acres of abandoned fields 
growing up into woodland. Negotiations were entered into to re-populate the empty farms 
with Swedish colonists. Meantime, many French-Canadians, the most prolific race on the 
globe, have moved into the northern counties and the factory-towns. In some towns farm- 
ing-lands may be bought for from $3 to $5 an acre, in healthy and beautiful localities. 

The Name of the State was ordered to be New Cojinecticid by the Westminster Con- 
• ."■•., '■,'.■" >X- --^-.-"v_" - vention proclaimed in 



1777. When they 
learned that a district 
on the Susquehanna 
bore that title, the 
name was changed to 
Vermont, from the 
old French Verts A/outs 
or "Green Mountains." 
There is a tradition 
that the Rev. Samuel 




RUTLAND AND KILLINGTON PEAK. 



Peters and his followers broke a bottle of spirits on Mount Pisgah, in 1763, and named 
the country Vert Mont. Vermont is popularly called The Green-Mountain State, in 
allusion to its chief geographical feature, beautiful in scenic effect, and rich in inexhausti- 
ble treasures of marble and granite. 

The Arms of Vermont consist of a green landscape, with a red cow, yellow erect 
sheaves, and a tall pine-tree ; and in the background the blue Mount Mansfield and Camel's 
Hump, as seen from Lake Champlain, against a yellow sky. The crest is a buck's head. 
The motto is Vermont : Freedom and Unity. Two crossed pine-branches serve as 
supporters to the shield. The State flag resembles the National standard, except that the 
blue union contains a large white star, in which the Vermont arms are emblazoned. 

The Governors have been Thomas Chit- 
tenden, 1777-87 and 1790-97; Moses Robin- 
son, 1 789-90; Paul Brigham (acting), 1797; 
Isaac Tichenor, 1797- 1807 and 1808-9; Israel 
Smith, 1807-8; Jonas Galusha, 1809-13 and 
1815-20; Martin Chittenden, 1813-5 ; Richard 
Skinner, 1820-3 ; Cornelius Peter Van Ness, 
1823-6; Ezra Butler, 1826-8 ; Samuel Chandler 
Crafts, 1828 31 ; Wm. Adams Palmer, 1831-5 ; 
Silas H. Jennison, 1835-41 ; Charles Paine, 
1841-3; John Mattocks, 1843-4; Wm. Slade, montpeuer. 




842 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




BRATTLEBORO 



1844-6; Horace Eaton, 1846-8; Carlos 
Coolidge, 1848-50; Chas. Kilbourne 
Williams, 1850-2 ; Erastus Fairbanks, 
1852-3 and 1860-I ; John Staniford 
Robinson, 1853-4; Stephen Roycc, 
1854-6; Ryland Fletcher, 1856-8; 
Hiland Hall, 1858-60 ; Frederick Hol- 
)rook, 1861-3; John Gregory Siriith, 
1863-5; P^"^' Dillingham, 1865-7; 
John B. Page, 1867-9; Peter Thacher 
Washburn, 1869-70; George W. Hen- 
dee (acting), 1870 ; John W. Stewart, 1870-2; Julius Converse, 1872-4; Asahel Peck, 
1874-6; Horace Fairbanks, 1876-8; Redfield Proctor, 1878-80; Roswell Farnham, 1880-2; 
John L. Barstow, 1882-4; Samuel \i. Pingree, 1884-6; Ebenezer J. Ormsbee, 1886-8; 
Wm. P. Dillingham, 1888-90; and Carroll S. Page, 1890-92. 

Descriptive. — The Green Mountains traverse Vermont from north to soutli, mid- 
way between the Connecticut River and Lake Champlain. They form a lofty range from 
Massachusetts to the centre of Vermont, breaking there into two chains, running east of 
north and northeast to Canada. There are 18 peaks above 3,500 feet high. The moun- 
tain sides are largely covered with grass, or with the dark-green spruce forests from which 
they derive their name. Many of these noble Appalachian highlands 
are based upon vast masses of fine marble, of high economic value. 
The chief of the Green Mountains are Mount Mansfield, 4,389 feet; 
Killington Peak, 4,241; Jay Peak, 4,018; Pico, 3,935; Shrewsbury, 
3,838 ; Camel's Hump, 4,088 ; Mount Equinox, 3,706 ; and Ascutney, 
3, 165. Among the favorite summer-resorts in the Green Mountains 
is Manchester, near Mounts Equinox and ^^^lolus; Stowe, near the 
magnificent scenery of Mount Mansfield and Smugglers' Notch ; and 
Waterbury. There are hotels on Mount Mansfield and Killington 
Peak, overlooking vast areas of northern New England. 

Lake Champlain is 1 18 miles long, with an extreme width of 14 
miles, a depth of 399 feet, and a height above the sea of 93 feet. By the aid of canals 
and rivers, navigation is practicable to Montreal, or to Albany and New York. The waters 
abound in salmon-trout, shad, muskallonge, sturgeon, pike, pickerel, bass, and whitefish. 
Vermont is the only New-England State shut out from the sea, but her noble lake gives 
her a large maritime commerce, a thousand vessels entering the port of Burlington yearly, 
with imports and exports reaching $12,000,000. The second steamboat ever built was the 
]"ernw)it, launched at Burlington by John and James Winans, in 
1809, and run on Lake Champlain for six years. The new Vermont 
and Chatcattgay belong to the Champlain Transportation Company, 
and ply up and down the lake. Of late years yachting has become 
an important feature of summer-days, the chief organization being 
the Lake-Champlain Yacht Club, with a handsome club-house at 
Burlington, and a membership of 400. The harbors of Burlington, 
Swanton and Plattsburg are protected by long artificial breakwaters. 
The southern third of Lake Memphreniagog's 30 miles is in Ver- 
mont, and the rest in Canada. Lake Bomoseen, at Castleton, lies 
in a deep rocky basin eight miles long, with pleasant scenery. 
Willoughby Lake, six by two miles, filling a profound chasm be- 
tween two mountains ; Lake Dunmore, five miles long, near Middle- 
BENNiNGTON : l)ury, and environed by fine hills ; St. -Catherine, Caspian, Maidstone, 

BATTLE MONUMENT. aud scorcs more of beautiful lakes diversify the mountain-land. On 




BENNINGTON ; 
CATAMOUNT MONUMENT. 




THE STATE OF VERMONT. 843 

the Champlain side the main streams are Otter Creek, 90 miles ; the Winooski, 70 ; the 
Lamoille ; and the Missisquoi, 75. The Clyde, Barton and Black flow into Lake Mem- 
phreniagog ; and the Passumpsic, Wells, White, and Otta Queechee into the Connecticut. 
The little rivers of Vermont traverse wide and fertile meadows, 
amid great beauty of scenery, with the graceful American elms 
and the locally famous sugar-maples 
bending over their pellucid waters. 

The Climate is subject to sud- 
den and great changes, with pro- 
longed snowy winters ; but the clear 
and pure air keeps the death-rate low 
and the people sturdy. The sani- 
tariums in and near Brattleboro were 
once of wide renown ; and at the 
present time there are several of these 
institutions on the noble bluffs near 
Burlington, viewing the lake and 
mountains. In the lower Missisquoi 
valley flows the famous Sheldon Spring, a \ery 
unusual alkaline-saline water, used for hot and 
cold baths, and beneficial to rheumatics and 
other sufferers. The Central, Missisquoi, Ver- 
mont, Continental, and Excelsior Springs, in this 
vicinity, have a considerable repute for their 
healing waters, and the hotels are filled in summer, 




NGS LIBRARY. 



BURLINGTON 



UNIVERSITY OF VERMONT. 

The saline and alkaline Highgate 
Springs, with their large old hotel, and the Champlain Spring, are near the beautiful 
Missisquoi Bay. Farther west, on a long peninsula between the bay and Lake Champlain, 
are the Alburgh Springs. In southern Vermont, seven miles from Rutland, is the ancient 
hotel at Clarendon Springs. The Newbury Sulphur Springs are on the edge of the idyllic 
Ov-Bow Meadows of the Connecticut River, and in sight of the majestic Franconia Moun- 
tains. Middletown Springs, with their hotels, lie in a picturesque Green-Mountain valley, 
15 miles from Rutland. The six Brunswick Springs, near the Connecticut River, include 
iron, magnesia, white-sulphur, bromide and arsenic waters. 

Farming. — The value of the farms of Vermont has not increased during the last 30 
years, but the value of their products is greatly augmented. The valleys are rich in a deep 
black alluvial soil, and the strong loam of the uplands affords good crops and pasturage. 
The percentage of improved farm-land in Vermont is larger than in any other State except 
New York and Illinois. The rich arable plains of the Champlain Valley, sheltered from 
sea-winds, are adapted to fruit-farming and dairies ; and Vermont has the most extensive 
dairy-interests of any State, in proportion to its population, the product reaching 35,000,000 
pounds a year. The State Board of Trade was formed in 1888, in the interest of the 
makers of butter, cheese, and maple-sugar, and one of its functions is to expose the many 

dangerous counterfeits of these articles. The butter pro- 
duct has more than doubled since i860, but the cheese 
product has lessened. Factory-made dairy-products are 
now in general favor, and are of great excellence. The 
yield of maple-sugar exceeds .11,250,000 a year, and the 
sap is evaporated with more scientific care than of old. It 
is exported in great quantities, mainly to the West, the 
business being largely directed by the Maple-Sugar Ex- 
- ^^IjT^,^:;^ i=. •;- change at Brattleboro, with members in 38 towns. One 

WOODSTOCK : NOHMAN WILLIAMS LIBRARY, third of the maplc-sugar of America comes from Vermont, 




844 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MANCHESTER 
SEMINARY AVENUE. 



whose great maple-orchards are tapped in early spring, pour- 
ing out their sap through spouts fixed in the trees, to be boiled 
down into syrup and crystallized. 

The most valuable crop is hay, of which the yearly product 
exceeds 1,000,000 tons, valued at $11,000,000. The aggre- 
gate of the remaining crops is hardly half this amount, the 
chief of them being potatoes and oats, about $2,000,000 each. 
There is less wool clipped here than in 1850, owing to strong 
outside competition. But the choice breeds of fine-wooled 
merino sheep of ancient pedigree raised in Vermont are cele- 
brated all over the world, and have been exported to Australia, 
South America and other remote countries. Texan and Cali- 
fornian sheep-raisers continually visit this region to get 
thorough-bred rams to keep up the standard of their flocks. 
The horses of Vermont have also won great fame, and the 
Morgan, Messenger and Black-Hawk stocks are honored in 
equine history. 

The Quarries are of great value and interest. Vermont 
leads all the States in the quantity, quality and variety of its marble, of which millions of 
cubic feet are exported every year. Three quarters of the marble quarried in the United 
States comes from Vermont ; and Rutland, the centre of this industry, has sidewalks and 
curbstones, underpinnings and hitching-posts, and many public 
buildings of this beautiful material, which is both whiter and 
more durable than the famous Carrara marble. A small grave- 
stone quarry was opened in 1785; the first work on Rutland 
marble began in 1844, at West Rutland ; and now the little Otter- 
Creek Valley alone has 40 quarries, employing 4,500 men and 
$5,000,000 in capital. The Vermont Marble Company (of which 
the Hon. Redfield Proctor, recently U.-S. Secretary of War, was 
the founder) employs 1,400 men, and a capital of $3,000,000 ; 
and out of 370 gangs of saws now running in Vermont it has in 
operation 194. The principal marbles quarried in Vermont are from Rutland (both M-hite 
and blue) and Sutherland Falls. The greatest part of the Rutland quarries are owned by 
this company, and they are also the owners of the Sutherland-Falls quarry, at Proctor, 
which is the biggest single quarry in existence. This company, which, by the way, is the 
largest concern in the world engaged in this business, requires 4,000 horse-power to operate 




MONTPEUIER : POSi -uhrlOc 



its machinery, and runs in 



connection with its business 




a railroad of 20 miles, connecting its different works. The greater part of the marble 
quarried in Vermont is used for monumental purposes, it having for these uses very rapidly 
•replaced the Italian stone. A large amount is also used in buildings. It is especially 



THE STATE OF VERMONT. 845 

adapted for this use in that it is the best fire resistant of all stones (the Sutherland-Falls 
withstanding a heat of 1,000°, while granite crumbles at 700'^). It also possesses great 
strength, sustaining a crushing weight of over 17,000 pounds to the inch, while granite 
tests but 15,000, and brownstone about 3,000. The terrace and grand stairway of the 
Capitol, at Washington ; the Parker House extension, at Boston ; the spire of Grace 
Church, at New York; and thousands of structures in different parts of the country, attest 
at once the desirability and popularity of marble for building purposes and the extent of 
the business of this company. 

Marble has been quarried in large quantities at Manchester, Dorset, New Haven, Rox- 
bury, Brandon, Middlebury, Swanton, St. Albans, and Castleton. The verd-antique of 
Plymouth is equalled in beauty only by that of Tuscany. At Brandon there are mines of 
kaolin, from which fine grades of mineral paint are made. At Barre, six miles south of 
Montpelier, 35 firms are engaged in the quarrying of granite, employing 1,200 men, and 
shipping over 20,000 tons yearly. The stone is clear and even in texture, uniform in 
color, and susceptible of a high polish. Many granite-workers came hither from the Aber- 
deen quarries, in Scotland ; and within ten years the population has risen from 500 to 7,000. 
There are also granite quarries at Dummerston and Ryegate. Fairhaven and Castleton are 
famous for slate, worked by large bodies of men, for billiard-beds, mantels, and slate-pen- 
cils. Valuable roofing-slate comes from Poultney and North- 
field. The copperas of Pompanoosuc and the copper ore of 
Ely, Vershire and Corinth, have given rise to lucrative industries. 
Near Brandon there are deposits of brown lignite, burning 
readily. Vermont produces yearly over 500,000 barrels of lime, 
and 5,250,000,000 brick. Talc and manganese are mined here. 
The Government includes a biennially elected governor, 
lieutenant-governor, treasurer, secretary of State, and auditor of 
accounts ; a senate of 30 members ; a house of 243 representa- 
tives (one from each organized town); and an elective judiciary. 
The State House at Montpelier was built in 1857-9, ^"^ has a 
Doric colonnade of white Barre granite, and is crowned by a 
handsome dome, above which rises a statue of Ceres. Here are 
kept the 24 State flags, 41 United-States flags, and two brigade 
flags, borne by Vermont soldiers in the Secession War. Here 
also rest the cannon captured by Vermonters from the Hessians, 
at Bennington, in 1777. The State Library of 26, oco volumes, the 
Supreme Court, and the Historical Society occupy an annex. The Vermont National 
Guard includes the First Regiment, the First Separate Battalion, and the famotis Fuller 
Light Battery, of Brattleboro, armed with new steel rifled guns. The State Prison is at 
Windsor ; the House of Correction, at Rutland ; the Reform School, at Vergennes ; the 
Asylum for the Insane, at Waterbury. 

The Chief Towns are Burlington, beautifully situated over Lake Champlain, and 
favored by a large trade in lumber; Rutland, in the mountain-guarded Otter-Creek Valley; 
St. Albans, three miles from Lake Champlain, with a thronged butter-market, and large 
railroad shops ; Bennington, occupied by manufactures ; Brattleboro, amid charming hill- 
scenery on the Connecticut ; Castleton, near Lake Bomoseen ; St. Johnsbury, a famous 
manufacturing village ; Montpelier, nestling in a beautiful valley, ten miles from the centre 
of Vermont, with handsome State and Federal buildings ; and Bellows Falls, amid grand 
mountain-scenery at the white and impetuous falls of the Connecticut. 

Education received earnest attention at the dawn of Vermont's history ; and over 
.^600.000 are now spent on the public schools yearly. 

The University of Vermont was opened in 1800, and its buildings crown College Hill, 
at Burlington, with magnificent views of the Green Mountains on the east side, and Lake 




MIDDLEBURY COLLEGE 
STARR HALL. 



846 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Champlain and the Adirondack Mountains on the west. The University has 36 instructors 
and 470 students, including 180 in the Medical School. The State Agricultural College is 
connected with the University, and teaches chemistry, engineering and farming, and mili- 
tary science. The most beautiful of the University buildings is the Billings Library, of 
rock-faced and carved stone, designed by H. H. Richardson. It contains 42,000 volumes. 
Among the university's graduates were Jacob CoUamer, Henry J. Raymond, Rev. Dr. W. 
G. T. Shedd, John A. Kasson, Frederick Billings, and H. O. Houghton, the publisher. 

Middlebury College, founded in iSoo, occupies a campus of 300 acres, on a pleasant 
hill-top, with views including the Otter-Creek and Champlain Valleys, and the Green 
Mountains. It is Congregational, and has nine professors and 50 students. Among its 
graduates were Hudson, the Shakespearean ; Edward J. Phelps, late United-States Minis- 
ter to Great Britain ; Stephen Olin ; and Silas Wright. 

Norwich University, founded at Norwich in 18 19, was the first military college in the 
Union. Gen. Sherman said that Norwich "almost rivalled the National Academy at West 
Point." After the buildings were burned, in 1866, the institution migrated to Northfield. 
Many distinguished army officers (including 275 in the Secession War) graduated at Nor- 
wich. The cadets for 30 free scholarships are appointed by the State senators. The uni- 
form is dark blue, with United-States helmet. There are twelve instructors (including a 
detailed army officer) and 60 cadets. 

The State supports three normal schools, at Castleton, Randolph and Johnson. The 
Vermont Episcopal Institute and Bishop Hopkins Hall are handsome stone structures on 
Rock Point. St. -Johnsbury Academy, founded in 1842, occupies handsome modern build- 
ings, given by Thaddeus Fairbanks, in 1873. Many villages have public libraries, the 
most attractive of which is at Woodstock, enshrining its treasures in a round-arched build- 
ing of red limestone and marble, with an open timber roof, and valuable paintings. The 
Fletcher Free Library, at Burlington, has 18,000 volumes ; and the St. -Johnsbury Athe- 
nteum, founded by ex-Go v. Horace Fairbanks, contains 12,000 volumes, and an art-gallery, 
whose chief work is Bierstadt's Domes of the Yosemite. 

The Railroads followed the lines of the old Indian trails. The line from Burlington 
to Windsor dates from 1849; Rutland to Burlington, and Essex Junction to Rouse's Point, 
1850; and White-River Junction to St. Johnsbury, 1851. 

The Manufactures of Vermont include farming and dairy implements, parlor-organs, 
scales, wagons, paper, and machinery. 

In the beautiful valley through which the Lamoille River winds down to Lake Cham- 
plain, nestles Hyde Park, the county seat of Lamoille County, with its country village- 
street, on which front the white court-house, 
town hall, academy, hotel, and half a dozen 
stores. From a business point of view Hyde 
Park derives importance from Carroll S. 
Page's green calf-skin business, the largest 
industry of its kind in the United States. 
In Mr. Page's busy hide-house hundreds of 
thousands of skins are 
ments being made to 
the country, while he 
pared products to 
tanners. The won- 
to which the business 
I irgely due to unique 
so that a tanner desir- 
specialty can here 
raw skin required. 




handletl Nearly, sliip- 
him from all parts of 
in turn sells the pre- 
American and foreign 
derful development 
has been brought is 
methods of grading, 
ing skins for any 
obtain exactly the 




PAGE'S ESTATE. 




THE STATE OF VERMONT. 847 

The trade has thus come to be largely in specialties for fine work, such as pocket-books, 
drum and banjo heads, roller skins, and fine shoes. The development of this vast business, 
so far from the trade-centres, has been productive of great good to the town, and is the 
subject of continual wonder on the part of visitors. Mr. Page is now ("rovernor of Vermont. 

In a pleasant glen, near Burlington, 
nestles the large village of Winooski, the 
seat of the Burlington Woolen Company, 
whose three mills, four brick storehouses, 
naphtha and carbonizing buildings, flour 
and grist mills, brick block for halls and 
stores, and tenement houses, make up a 
considerable part of the place. This in- burlington woolen mills. 

dustry was founded in 1827, and the present corporation dates from 1861. The company 
employs 1,000 persons, making uniform cloths and broadcloths, doeskins and kerseys, 
overcoatings and Meltons, carriage-cloths and cloakings, beavers and cassimeres. The 
experience of three generations of skilled operatives has brought to the Burlington Woolen 
Company an unexcelled reputation for its product of fine and costly grades of cloth, which 
are sold all over the United States, their character and fineness reaching the highest brands 
of foreign woolens. The Colchester Mills, under the same management, and controlled 
by the same owners, employ several hundred hands in making the finest grades of cotton 
yarn, carded and combed, white and in colors. The Burlington Woolen Company and the 
Colchester Mills afford employment to a majority of the residents of Winooski. 

At Olcott, a picturesque point on the Connecticut River, two miles above White-River 
Junction, is the extensive water-power developed since 1885 by the Olcott-Falls Company. 
In 1848 a charter was granted to The White-River Falls Corporation, for "maintaining a 
dam and water-power," and among the corporators was Rufus Choate. To this corporation 

succeeded the present company, 
whose plant comprises a dam 600 
feet long, giving a head of 40 feet 
and 10,000 horse-power ; and the 
paper and pulp mills, a compact 
group of brick and stone buildings 
covering two acres. The machinery 
includes four paper-machines of a 
OLCOTT : OLCOTT PAPER MILLS. width of 84 iuchcs, 88 iuchcs, 100 

inches and 104 inches respectively; and 19 iS-inch and 54-inch pulp-grinders, requiring 
each 250 horse-power, and yielding a daily i)niduct of 80 tons of printing paper and dry 

pulp. The pulp wood is cut from p- — ^-^^ — ^^r- — _,_ — _^.__ ^,^ 

wood-tracts of 1, 500 acres in northern : 
Vermont, owned by the company. 
Having their own timber-lands, an 
abundant water-power, and the latest 
improved machinery, the facilities of 
the Olcott-Falls Company for fur- 
nishing a superior grade of newspaper 
for the large city daily press are unsur- 
passed. The products of these mills 
are sold through Wilder & Co. , of Bos- 
ton, C. T. and II. A. Wilder, being respectively President and Treasurer of this company. 

Nearly all trade, the mainspring of modern life, is based upon weight ; and up to within 
a lifetime this was an affair of the ancient even balance, or Roman steelyard, or similarly 
inexaqt contrivances. In 1823 Thaddeus Fairbanks started a foundry at St. Johnsbury. 





OLCOTT MILLS, 



HE CONNECTICUT RIVER. 



848 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Vermont ; and in 1824, with his brother 
Erastus, began to manufacture stoves and 
plows, afterwards adding hemp-dressing ma- 
chines, and entering also the hemp business. 
The purchase of hemp involved much weigh- 
ing ; and Mr. Fairbanks after long study de- 
vised the platform scale, a series of levers 
delicately adjusted on knife-edge steel bear- 
ings, and still the accepted principle of all 
practical weighing machines. This was 
patented in 1831, and out of its manufacture 




ST. J0HNS8URY : THE E. 4 T. FAIRBANKS & CO. 




BURLINGTON 



has grown the largest scale-factory in the world, incorporated in 1874, and with a paid-in 
capital of $2,500,000. The scales and their processes of manufacture are covered by a 
great number of patents. There are 500 varieties made here, ranging from the most deli- 
cate balances up to the huge railway scales, weighing 150 
tons at once. Large shipments are made to Brazil and 
Chili, Germany and Austria, Australia and the far East ; and 
the United States is supplied from E. & T. Fairbanks & Co.'s 
warehouses in a score of cities. For many years this com- 
pany has furnished the Government with scales, from the 
delicate ones in the post-offices up to those used in the navy- 
yards. The Fairbanks scales are the standard of Europe 
and Africa, India and Australia, China and Japan, the East 
and West Indies, and South America. The Fairbanks' 
works are at St. Johnsbury, and cover twelve acres, with more than a score of sub- 
stantial b lildings, occupied by 700 skilled workmen, making every year from 10,000 tons 
of material over 100,000 scales, valued at $3,000,000. The Fairbanks have enriched St. 
Johnsbury with a noble church and academy, a library, art -gallery, and museum of natural 

history. Two of them have been Governors of Vermont. 
The beautiful village of Brattleboro, on the Connec- 
ticut River, is world-renowned as the home of the Estey 
Organ Company. The business of making melodeons 
began here in 1846, and three or four years later passed 
into the hands of Jacob Estey, who used to drive about 
New England, "York State," and Canada, selling the 
products of the works. The Estey Organ Company now 
owns 14 great factories, with a capacity of 1,800 organs 
a month. The company has a paid-in capital of $1,000,000; and the stock is all owned 
in the Estey family. Col. Julius J. Estey, the treasurer, is the son of the founder ; and 
Lieut. -Gov. Levi K. Fuller, the vice-president, is his son-in-law. The products of the 
Estey works include all grades of instruments, from the portable organ, which may be 
folded up and carried under the arm, up to the three manual organs, with pedals, pipe- 
top, and other accessories, giving a compass of 
great volume and richness of tone. Of the 
parlor, boudoir, salon, church, philharmonic 
and other organs, with or without pipe-tops, 
each has its own special adaptation and merits, 
and all are characterized by rich tone-effects, 
and unusual power and expression. Some are 
adapted for halls, and others for churches, 
lodges and societies, wherever grand and noble 
harmonies and accompaniments are desired. 




BURLINGTON : EPISCOPAL INSTITUTE. 




BRATTLEBORO : ESTEV ORGAN COMPANY. 




lOO 

2,804 

3,160 

1,307 



The great section of 

America between 34° and 

45° (from Cape Fear to 

Halifax) originally bore the 

name of Virginia. In 1 606 

King James I. divided this 

empire into three districts — 

that from 34° to 38° being 

granted to the London Com- 
pany, that from 38° to 41° remaining as neutral ground, 
and that from 41° to 45° passing jinder the control of the 
Plymouth Company. The London Company sent out in 
1607 105 colonists, under Newport, Gosnold, and John 
Smith, and they settled at Jamestown, on the James River, 
where a ruined church-tower alone perpetuates the memory 
of the city. In 1609 the London Company was granted 
the territory for 200 miles north and 200 miles south of 
Old Point Comfort, and westward to the Pacific ; and sent 
over 500 emigrants, of whom but 60 remained a year later, 
when Lord De la Warre arrived to govern and reinforce 
the colony. New settlements sprang up, at Hampton, 
Dutch Gap, Bermuda Hundred and other points in the in- 
terior. The aboriginal tribes were the Powhatans, in Tide- 
water ; the Mannahacks and Monacans, in the Midlands 
and Piedmont ; and the Cherokees and Algonquins of the 
Valley and mountains. In 1619 a Dutch vessel brought 
the first negro slaves to Virginia ; the first elective body in 
America was convened from the eleven plantations, at 
Jamestown ; and 1,200 immigrants arrived, including 100 
felons sent from English prisons for planters' servants, and 
90 respectable girls, for planters' wives. In 1622 Opecan- 
canough and his Indian warriors slew 347 English settlers 
in a single night, and during the grievous war which en- 
sued the white population fell away from 4,000 to 2,500. 
In 1634 the London Company was arbitrarily dissolved by a writ of quo warranto, and 
Virginia became a Crown Colony, and remained such for nearly 150 years, the King ap- 
pointing the governor and council, and the people electing the House of Burgesses, The 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at Jamestown. 

Settled in 1607 

Founded by ... . Englishmen. 
One of the OriKinal 13 States. 
Population in ibi6o, . . . 1, 1596,318 

In 1870, 1,225,163 

In 1880, I,i;i2,565 

White, 880,858 

Colored, 631,707 

American-born, . . . 1,497,869 
Foreign-born, .... 14,696 

Males, 745,589 

Females 766,976 

In 1890 (U. S. census), . 1,655,980 

White 1,014,680 

Colored, 640,867 

Population to the square mile, 37.7 
Voting Population, . . . 334,505 
Vote for Harrison (1888), 150,438 
Vote for Cleveland (1888), 151,977 
Net State Debt, . . . $31,525,535 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), . $362,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 42,450 
U.-S. Representatives, . 10 

Militia (Disciplined), . . 2,809 

Counties, 

Post-offices, .... 
Railroads (miles), 

Vessels, 

Tonnage, 41,190 

Manufactures (yearly), 851,810,692 

Operatives 40,184 

Yearly Wages, . . . $7,425,261 
Farm Land (in acres), . 19.910,700 
Farm-Land Values, 8216,028,107 
Farm Products (yearly), ,$45,726,221 
Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 195,525 

Newspapers, 262 

Latitude, . . . 36''3i' to 3i,°27' N. 
Longitude, . . 7s''i3' to i>^^^i^' W. 
Temperature, . . . — 5^ to 103^ 
Mean Temperature (Richmond), 57" 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of i8qo.) 

Richmond 81,388 

Norfolk 34 871 

Petersburg, 22,680 

Lynchburg, . . .... 19,799 

Roanoke, 16,159 

Alexandria M'SS*? 

Portsmouth, 13.268 

Danjfrille 10,305 

Manchester, 9.246 

Staunton, 6.975 



850 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




JAMESTOWN : RUINS OF CHURCH. 



colony remained steadfast tn the Stuarts until a fleet arrived 
bearing Parliament's comniissioners. The first constitution 
dated from 1621, and the laws were codified in 1632 and 166 1. 
The intolerance of the Established Church of England, the 
rapacity of Lords Culpeper and Arlington, and heavy taxes re- 
sulted' in Bacon's rebellion. The advance of French military 
posts along the AUeghanies led to war, in 1754, and George 
Washington led the Virginian troops in an attempt to recover 
the colony's outposts on the upper Ohio. 

Although her commerce with Britain exceeded that of any 
other colony, Virginia took a leading part in inaugurating the 
Revolution, and the Declaration of Independence was proposed 
in Congress by her deputies. Lord Dunmore, her governor, 
devastated the coast with fire and sword, and was followed in 
1779 by Sir George Collier, who destroyed Norfolk and Ports- 
mouth and 130 vessels; and Benedict Arnold, ascending to and burning Richmond in X781. 
Late in 1781 Lord Cornwallis and 7,000 British and German troops fortified Yorktown, 
where he was besieged by an American and French army of 16,000 men, under Washing- 
ton and Rochambeau. After much hard fighting and a series of terrific bombardments, 
Cornwallis was compelled to surrender his army, with 235 cannon and 28 standards. The 
noble monument on the Yorktown field was designed by J. (2- A. Ward, sculptor, and R. 
M. Hunt and Henry Van Brunt, architects, and 
dedicated in 1885. 

After the Revolution Virginia ceded to the 
United States, Kentucky and the vast domains 
northwest of the Ohio. Li 1790 this Common- 
wealth was by far the most populous in the Union 
having more inhabitants than New York am! 
Massachusetts united, or Pennsylvania and New 
Jersey. This supremacy she held until 1820, when 
New York passed her. Ten years later, Pennsyl- 
vania also moved ahead of her. In 1840 Ohio, 
and in i860 Illinois, showed populations exceed- 
ing Virginia's, and in 1870 the Old Dominion stood tenth in the list of States, 
she is fifteenth. 

Early in iS6l the people of Virginia refused, by a majority of 60,000, to secede from 
the Union ; but a few weeks later, when the Commonwealth was full of troops from the 
Gulf States, and blood had been sprinkled in the faces of the people, she was "dragooned 
out of the Union " (as Farragut said). 

Fitzhugh Lee says: "Virginia in 1861 was a Union State, and she pleaded for the pres- 
ervation of the Union. Her convention which assembled to take into consideration the 
subject had a large majority of Union men in it. It was only when Mr. Lincoln called for 

troops that this majority was changed, and Virginia de- 
cided by an almost unanimous vote that if war was to 
be made upon the Southern States she would cast her 
lot with them, though she knew that her soil would be the 
battle-field. It was but natural that a State which had 
so much to do with the formation of the American 
Union should have formed a deep attachment for the unity 
of the Republic, and when she finally decided to with- 
draw from the Union it was in the exercise of a right re- 
MouNT VERNON ; THE TOMB OF WASHINGTON, scrvcd by her when she ratified the Federal Constitution. " 




MOUNT VERNON I 
THE HOME OF GEORGE WASHINGTON, 



In 1890, 




THE STATE OF VIRGIXIA. 



851 



•^ . - 




•PAUL'S CHURCI- 



The Norfolk Navy- Yard and Ilarper's-Ferry Ar- 
senal were destroyed by the National officials ; and 
Fort Monroe remained in the hands of its garrison. 
During the long and terrible war that ensued, Virginia 
suffered more than any other State, losing many thou- 
sands of her bravest men, and $300,000,000 worth of 
property, besides having a vast area dismembered from 
her, and formed into a new State. In May, 1861, the 
Federal troops occupied Alexandria, and in June Ohio 
troops moved into Western Virginia. Pennsylvanians 
took Harper's Ferry ; but Butler's advance from Fort 
Monroe suffered defeat by the Confederates at Big Bethel. July 21st, McDowell's 28,000 
Federals, marching from Washington toward Richmond, were defeated by Beauregard's 
Confederates, at Bull Run, and thrown back in rout to the National capital. In October, 
Stone's Federal army, crossing the Potomac near Leesburg, was shattered at Ball's Bluff, 
and driven into the river. In March, 1862, the Confederate iron-clad Virginia (the eld 
Merrijuac) scattered the United-States fleet near Fort Monroe, sinking the frigates Cum- 
f>erla?id a.nA Congress, and was then checked by the iron-clad turret-ship Monitor. A few 
weeks later, the Federal troops occupied Norfolk; and McClellan's enormous army moved 

up the Peninsula, taking Yorktown and W^illiams- 
burg, and reaching within a few miles of Richmond. 
Here his 125,000 men were checked by Johnston's 
90,000 Confederates, in the battle of Fair Oaks, 
where 10,000 men were killed or wounded. Nearly 
a month later, when the Union pickets were within 
four miles of Richmond, Lee fell upon McClellan 
and drove liim off, in the terrible Seven Days' Battles 
in which 34,000 men fell, in the two armies. During 
this time Stonewall Jackson had been out-manoeuvring 
and out-fighting Banks, Fremont and Shields in the 
Valley of Virginia. On his departure for Richmond, 
the Federal forces in the north were formed into Pope's Army of Virginia, whose advancing 
columns were checked at Cedar Mountain (August 9th), and driven back, bravely fighting, 
to Washington. Part of McClellan's army, brought around by sea from the Peninsula, re- 
enforced the retreating forces, and the second battle of Bull Run resulted in a gloomy de- 
feat for the National army, which lost 15,000 men in the campaign. When Lee lay near 
Culpeper, after Antietam, the Federal army endeavored to flank him by Acquia Creek ; 
and Burnside lost 12,000 men in heroic assaults on the heights back of Fredericksburg 
(December 13, 1862). May 2-4, 1863, the Federal army (under Hooker) moved around 
Fredericksburg, and got on Lee's lines of communication, 
only to suffer another appalling defeat, at Chancellors- 
ville, losing 17,000 men to the confederates 13,000. After 
Gettysburg, Meade followed Lee to the Rapidan, sparring 
for a hold. Then Grant took command, and advanced 
from Culpeper with 125,000 men and 350 guns, and 
drove and outflanked Lee's army through the Wilder- 
ness and down to the James River, but lost 60,000 men 
within five weeks. While Grant was crushing his way 
through the Wilderness, Sigel advanced up the Valley, 
until Breckinridge defeated him at Newmarket : and 
Crook moved up the Kanawha, from Charleston, W. 

•IT^IJ •L-i_ ALEXANDRIA 

Va. , until Early drove mm back. Hunter combined church where wasminqton worshipped. 




Richmond: st.-john's church. 




852 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




THE HOME OF THOMAS JEF(-EHSON. 



these two armies (in June, 1864) and attacked Lynchburg. The long siege of Petersburg 
followed, froin June to April, with almost continuous fighting. In August, 1864, Sheridan 

annihilated Early's army, in the Valley, in a 
series of brilliant battles. At last Lee was 
compelled to abandon Petersburg and Rich- 
mond, and retreat towards the Alleghany Moun- 
tains, hotly pursued by Sheridan's horse and the 
infantry corps of the Army of the Potomac. At 
Appomatox the National armies closed around 
him, and the remnant of the heroic Southern 
MONTicELLo : THE HOME OF THOMAS JEFf EHsoN. army, numbering 28,000 men, surrendered to 
Gen. Grant. Thus ended the mighty struggle, to which the United States sent 2,800,000 
men, and the South sent nearly 1,500,000 men. 

After the war, until 1870, Virginia comprised the First Military District, under Scho- 
field, Stoneman and Canby, successively ; Gov. Pierpoint, the executive of the Virginia Union 
men (at Wheeling, 1861-3, and at Alexandria, 1863-5), moving to Richmond, where he 
was succeeded in 1868 by Henry H. Wells, the military appointee. A new constitution, 
abolishing slavery, was ratified by the popular vote in 1869; and in 1870 military control 
ceased, and Virginia's representatives entered Congress. Gen. Gordon's phrase: "Our 

civilization that began with Washington and ended with 
Lee" describes the passing away of the old systems. 
Land companies are now laying out the ancient baronial 
estates ; iron-kings replace the landed gentry ; and the 
pride of Virginia is in her smiling fields and vineyards, 
commerce and manufactures, and strong industrial de- 
velopment. In dreamy old Alexandria historic colonial 
houses rise amid high-walled rose-gardens, along the un- 
changed Tory streets named King, Queen, Royal, Prince, 
Princess, Duke, Duchess and St. Asaph, with their pav- 
ing of huge stones. Here is Christ Church, built of im- 
ported English brick, in 1773, and religiously preserving 
Washington's pew. In sight, up the broad Potomac, rise the vast marble palaces of the 
American capital ; and along the heights toward Annandale and Fairfax are the fading 
ruins of the forts erected in 1861-3. A few miles up the river, overlooking Washington, 
stands the Arlington mansion, built by G. W. P. Custis, and for many years the home of 
his son-in-law, Robert E. Lee ; and now surrounded by the graves of thousands of Union 
soldiers. A few miles down the stream, overlooking the noble Potomac for many a silvery 
league, rises Mount Vernon, the home of George Washington from 1752 until his death in 
1799, with its many memorials of the great founder of the Republic, its quaint old-time 
gardens and high-colonnaded verandas. The estate was bought in 1856 by the Ladies' 
Mount-Vernon Association, composed of women from 30 States, 
and is kept open to the people, thousands of whom come hither 
every month to see Washington's home and grave. In Fairfax 
Court-House, still standing in a war-worn village twelve miles 
west of Alexandria, Washington received his first military com- 
mission. Within a few miles are the battlefields of Bull Run, 
Chantilly, Drainesville and other hard-fought engagements of the 
late civil war. Away down on the Northern Neck, beyond the 
Occoquan Forest, the level lowlands of Westmoreland County 
stretch from the Potomac to the Rappahannock, and contain the 

birthplaces of Washington, Monroe, and Light-Horse Harry Lee. hampton : ^'^ 

Point Comfort was so named in 1608, by Capt. John Smith, st.-john-s church. 




WHITE house: ST. -PETER'S CHURCH. 





FAIRFAX COURT-HOUSE 



THE STATE OE VIRGINIA. 853 

because his storm-tossed boats found safe shelter here ; 
and later, when another Point Comfort was found, 
under similar circumstances of peril, the first-named 
locality became Old Point Comfort. 

St. John's Episcopal Church at Hampton dates 
from 1658, and is of red and gray glazed English brick, 
with a memorial window representing the baptism of 
Pocahontas. St. Luke's, in Isle-of-Wight county, 
built in 1632, lifts its Norman tower over a grove of 
oaks, and enjoys the honor of being the most ancient 
Protestant church in America. 

Williamsburg, on the Peninsula, the ancient capital 
(jf Virginia, and tha scene of Hooker's and Kearny's desperate battle during the civil war, 
contains the quaint old magazine built by Gov. Spotswood in 1714; a battered statue of 
Lord Botetourt, dating from 1770; the venerable Christ Church, built in 1678 ; and other 
memorials of antiquity. Seven miles distant isthe ivy-clad church-tower (built before 1620) 
of Jamestown, the first settlement in Virginia, rising above a lonely desolation. The Ran- 
dolph mansion on Malvern Hill was built in 1730, of imported brick, by Wm. Randolph, 
Treasurer of Virginia, and overlooks a vast expanse of the James valley. It was Lafayette's 
y» ^ headquarters in 1 781, and McClellan's in 1862. 

i ^ V, • Y /-^ Berkeley was granted by the Crown to the Merchants' Trading 

■Jk i«y , L ^^- Company, and by them sold to Benjamin Harrison, in 1645, the 
estate including 8,000 acres, and reaching from the James to the 
Chickahominy. The present mansion dates from 
1723, and was a favorite haunt of Patrick Henry, 
the birthplace of the first President Harrison, 
and the headquarters of Gen. McClellan. Pow- 
hatan was the most powerful chief of the Virginia 
Indians, and his daughter, Pocahontas, married 
, John Rolfe, an English colonist. Many Virginian 
patricians claim descent from this native princess. 
President Benjamin Harrison is her great-great- 
great-great-great-great-great -great grandson. 

The Name of Virginia was given by Queen 
Elizabeth, in 1584, after Capts. Amadas and Bar- 
low (of Ralegh's fleet) had informed her of the beauties of the newly discovered country. 
It was a memorial of her own unmarried condition. Spenser dedicated the Eaerie Queene 
to "Elizabeth, by the Grace of God, Queene of England, France and Ireland, and of 
Virginia." The title. Old Dominion, refers to the loyalty of Virginia to the Stuart 
dynasty, in holding allegiance thereto, even after Charles I. was beheaded, and in proclaim- 
ing Charles 11. "King of England, Scotland, Ireland and Virginia" before he had been 
allowed to return to his throne. The colonial tradition avers that at his coronation he 
wore a robe made of Virginian silk. The State 
is also called The Mother of Presidents, 
because four out of the first five presidents 
of the Republic (Washington, Jefferson, Madi- 
son and Monroe) were natives of her soil. 
Each of these served for two terms. The 
first Harrison, Tjder and Taylor were also 
born in Virginia. 

The Arms of Virginia were devised in 
1776, and show Virtus, the genius of the Com- Portsmouth (gosport) : navy yard. 




viALVERN HILL : THE MALVERN HOUSE. 




854 



KIXGKS HANDBOOK' OF THE I'NITED STATES. 



monwcalth, dressed like an Amazon, resting on a spear 
with one hand, and holding a sword in the other, and 
treading on Tyranny, represented by a man prostrate,, a 
crown fallen from his head, a broken chain in his left 
hand, and a scourge in his right. The motto is Sic Semper 
Tyrannis : "Thus be it ever to Tyrants." 

The Governors of Virginia, from 1606 to 1776, in- 
cluded 52 nobles, knights and gentlemen of Great Britain 
and the Province. They were followed by Patrick Henry, 
1776-9; Thomas Jefferson, 1779-81 ; Thomas Nelson, 
1 781-2 ; Benj. Harrison, 1782-4 ; Patrick Henry, 1784-6 ; 
The State Governors have been : Beverley Randolph, 




ARLINGTON : MONUMENT TO UNKNOWN DEAD 



and Edmund Randolph, 1786- 

1788-91 ; Henry Lee, 1791-4; Robert Brook, 1794-6; James Wood, 1796-9; Jas. Monroe, 



H.Cabell, 1805-8; John Tyler, 1808-I i ; 
i8il; Jas. Barbour, 1812-14; Wilson 
ton, 1816-19; Thos. M. Randolph, 
Tyler, 1825-7 ; Wm. B. Giles, 1S27-30; 
Tazewell, 1834-6; Wyndham Robert- 
1837-40; Thos. W. C;ilmer, 1840-1 ; 
Grregory, 1842-3 ; James McDowell, 
Kloyd, 1849-52; Jos. Johnson, 1852-6; 
1S60-4; Francis H. Pierpont, 1864-8; 
Walker, 1871-4; Jas. L. Kemper, 
William E. Cameron, 1882-6; Fitz- 
Mc Kinney, 1 890-3. 
shown in six great divisions, ascending 
a marked difference in climate 
known as the Tidewater, Mid- 
Valley and Appalachian sec- 
covers 11,350 square miles, 
shores on the Atlantic and 
affluents, having a frontage of 
^^ of 90 miles. It includes hun- 
and necks, and nine great 
two counties eastward of Ches- 
apeake Bay, with broad, still sounds and sandy islands and sand-bars facing the Atlantic ; 
Norfolk Neck, including the rich lowlands and swamp-lands between 
the Atlantic and the Nansemond River; the Southside, between the 
Nansemond and James, 65 miles long and from 35 to 40 miles wide; the 
Chickahominy, between the James and the Chickahominy, 50 milts 
long by from five to 15 miles wide ; the Peninsula, next north, reachin.,^ 
1 3 the York and Pamunkey, 100 miles long and from five to 15 milt -> 
wide ; the King William, between the Pamunkey and Mattapony, 60 
miles long, by from three to 14 miles wide ; the Gloucester, between 
the Mattapony and Pianketank, 70 miles long, by from six to 18 
miles wide ; the Middlesex, 60 miles long, by from three to ten i 
miles wide ; and the famous Northern Neck, 75 miles long and 
from six to 20 miles wide, between the Rappahannock and Potomac 
Rivers. The lands were once far more rich and productive than 
now. On these peninsulas (and especially the Northern Neck) 
arose the stately feudal civilization of ancient Virginia, with its 
now-ruined parish-churches, and the mansions and estates of 



1799-1802; John Page, 1 802-5 ; Wm. 
James Monroe, 1811 ; Geo. W. Smith, 
C. Nicholas, 1S14-16; James P. Pres- 
1819-22 ; Jas. Pleasants, 1 822-5 ; John 
John Floyd, 1830-4; Littleton W. 
son (acting), 1836-7; David Campbell, 
John Rutherford, 1841-2; John M. 
1843-6 ; Wm. Smith, 1846-9 ; John B. 
Henry A.Wise, 1856-60; John Letcher, 
Henry H. Wells, 1868-71 ; Gilbert C. 
1874-8; F. W. M. Holliday, 1878-82 ; 
hugh Lee, 1886-90; and Philip W. 
The Topography of Virginia i> 
toward the west, and showing 
and productions. They are 
die. Piedmont, Blue -Ridge, 
tions. Tidewater Virginia 
with 1,500 miles of tidal 
Chesapeake Bays and their 
1 14 miles, and a depth inland 
dreds of minor peninsulas 
ones : The Eastern Shore, 




ORKTOWN MON 




NATUHAL BrtlDGE. 



THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 855 

the Washingtons, Lees, Carters, Fairfaxes, Beverleys, 
lierkeleys and other noble families. 

Middle Virginia rises above the Tidewater counties, 
forming a pleasant undulating plain, of 12,470 square 
miles, ascending on the west to the Bull- Run, Catoctin, 
Vew, Buffalo and other mountains, bold foot-hills of 
the Blue Ridge, running from the Potomac, near Great 
Falls, southwest to the Dan, west of Danville. Pied- 
mont Virginia forms a belt of 6,680 square miles of 
picturesque and well-watered valleys and plains, run- 
ARLiNGTON : NATIONAL CEMETERY. ning southwcst from the Potomac to North Carolina, 

244 miles, and 25 miles wide. It has a heavy red soil, famous for apples, grapes and grain ; 
and its elevated coves and valleys form sanitariums of pure dry air. From the high western 
edge of the Piedmont country the Blue Ridge rises, running clear across the State for 310 
miles, and with its great plateaus, parallel ridges and spurs covering 2, 500 square miles, 
at an average height of 2,500 feet. The Ridge where the Potomac breaks through it, at 
Harper's Ferry, is 1,460 feet bigh, and rises to 3,369 feet at Mount Marshall, near Front 
Royal and Manassas Gap. The Chesapeake & Ohio Railroad crosses at Rockfish Gap, 
1,986 feet above the tide; and the water-gap made by the James River is 706 feet high. 
Amid the beautiful and sequestered valleys in this region, stand many fine old estates, 




like Montpelier, the home 
Castle Hill, where the Rives jffl 
ticello is an imposing coun- 
its illustrious founder, which 
lies Thomas Jefferson, 
Independence, of the statute 
Freedom, and the founder of 
The Valley of Virginia, 
the Alleghanies, is 305 miles 
square miles of rolling plat- 
west, broken by bold de- 
peaks, and containing the 




ARLINGTON : OLD CUSTIS ( LEE> MANSION. 



of James Madison, and 
family has long dwelt. Mon- 
try-house, near the tomb of 
bears the inscription: "Here 
author of the Declaration of 
of Virginia for Religious 
the University of Virginia." 
between the Blue Ridge and 
long, and covers 7,550 
eaus, rising from east to 
tached mountain-ranges and 
valleys of the Shenandoah, 
James, Roanoke, Holston (Tennessee), and Kanawha (or New) Rivers. The fifteen valley 
counties have singular beauty of scenery, their deep forests, rich farms and pleasant villages 
being overlooked by the majestic Blue Ridge on one side, and the long uniform lines of the 
Kittatinny on the other, with the lone knobs of more distant ranges, and the fortress-like 
ridges rising from the plains. The famous Shenandoah Valley occupies the seven counties 
in the northern part of theValley of Virginia. The Caverns of Luray, re-discovered in 1878, 
near one of the battle-scarred old villages of the Valley, are now visited yearly by thousands 
of travellers, resting at the pretty Luray Inn. The unrivalled stalactites and stalagmites in 
"this dark studio of nature," reproduce with interesting 
likeness fountains and geysers, craters and cascades, 
gates and towers, and a thousand familiar objects. Halls 
and avenues extend far away into the blue silurian lime- 
stone strata, weirdly illuminated at times by mag- 
nesium and electric lights, and apparently upheld by 
Inmdreds of stalagmitic columns. Weyer's Cave and 
Madison's Cave are in a spur of the Blue Ridge, in 
the Valley of Virginia. Weyer's ranks next to the 
Mammoth and Wyandotte Caves and has many halls 
and apartments, adorned by the most brilliant stalac- 
tites and stalagmites. The Blowing Cave, farther smitmfield church. 




856 



KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 



**>^, 








RICHMOND : WASHINGTON MONUMENT. 



south in tlie valley', pours out a perpetual rush of cold 
air during the summer. The Crabtree Falls descend from 
Pinnacle Peak in a dazzling sheet of white, falling 
3,000 feet in a horizontal distance of 2,000 feet. The 
Natural Bridge is a mighty monolithic arch west of the 
Blue Ridge and 14 miles from Lexington, in a region of 
cascades and caverns, and deep pine- woods, 1,500 feet 
above the sea. It is 215^ feet high, and 100 feet wide, 
and with a span of 80 feet. 

Appalachian Virginia, or the Mountain Region, 

covers 4, 500 square miles, in a belt 260 miles long and 

from ten to 50 miles wide, a network of parallel ranges, 

enclosing long and narrow valleys which run northeast 

and southwest. Here and there occur charming glens, 

like Burke's Garden, near the head of Holston, an area 

of 30,000 acres of blue-grass land, surrounded by high and mural mountain escarpments. 

Tidewater has 415,000 inhabitants, and Middle Virginia has 443,000, more than half of 

them colored. Piedmont has 252,000(104,000 colored), the Blue Ridge 40,000 (2,600 

colored), the Valley, 251,000 (51,000 colored), and Appalachia, 105,000 (9,000 colored). 

The Eastern Shore of Virginia includes the counties of Northampton and Accomack, a 
long and low-lying peninsula between the ocean and Chesa- 
peake Bay. It is bordered on the Atlantic side by the lagoon 
called the Broadwater, outside of which a line of low sandy 
islands faces the ocean-surges. Chincoteague is the head- 
quarters of many sportsmen, who find a great variety of game- 
birds and fish among the inlets and along the desolate islands. 
Hampton Roads is the deep estuary of the James River, where 
the navies of the world might ^ide in safety. Into this bay 
opens the broad Elizabeth River, with the deep Norfolk Har- 
bor 12 miles up, and the Norfolk and North-Carolina Canals 
running south to Pamlico and Albemarle Sounds. Norfolk 
ships $5,000,000 worth of vegetables every year, half of which 
comes from the rich truck-farms in the country. 

The James River rises in the Alleghanies ; cuts through 
the Blue Ridge near Lynchburg ; and receives scores of tributary streams, some of them navi- 
gable, like the Appomatox (to Petersburg), Nansemond and Chickahominy. Vessels 
drawing 14 feet can ascend 150 miles, to Richmond. The York River may be ascended 
by large ships 40 miles, to its head at West Point, whence the confluent Mattapony and 
Pamunkey Rivers are navigable for about 30 miles each. 
^ Large vessels can ascend the Rappahannock estuary to 

.'^.^ Tappahannock, its port of entry ; and steamboats and coasters 
go up to Fredericksburg, 92 miles from the bay. Among the 
mountains of the southwest rise the two streams whose con- 
fluence forms the Tennessee River. The Yadkin and Roanoke, 
rising in the Blue Ridge, and the Meherrin, Blackwater and 
Nottoway, in southeastern Virginia, all flow across the border 
into North Carolina, the last three entering the Chowan River. 
The Dismal Swamp is a great sponge-like reservoir, from 
whose cypress and juniper woods fine rivers issue. The air is 
free from miasma ; and the water is tinted by the junipers to 
a pale wine color, but is sweet and pure. The swamp lies 




RICHMOND : LEE MONUMENT. 




NATURAL TUNNEL. 



southwest of Norfolk, and covers 150,000 acres. 




RICHMOND : CITY HALL. 



THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 857 

The most extensive and valuable oyster-beds in the world are found around Chesapeake 
Bay. Virginia has 14,000 oystermen (more than half of them colored), with 1,300 large 
boats and 4,500 canoes, taking 7,000,000 bushels yearly. One fourth of this product is 
packed in cans. Th. tidal waters are rich in shad, sturgeon, herring, rockfish, perch, 

chubs, spotfish, bass, and other fish, of which over 
51,000,000 worth are caught yearly. Terrapin, lobsters 
and crabs also abound in these waters; and canvas-back 
duck teem in the lagoons. 

The Climate of the peninsulas between the James 
ind the Potomac is mild in winter and miasmatic in sum- 
mer. Malaria also lurks about the great swamps in 
the south and southeast, although the vicinity of 
Hampton Roads is healthful. The mountains shield 
the Valley of Virginia from the cold blasts of winter, 
while they also lift it up to an altitude which ensures 
coolness in summer. 

Agriculture is favored by short winters, long 
growing seasons, and abundant rains. The Valley of 
Virginia, with its rich limestone soil, is one of the finest farming regions in the Atlantic 
States, yielding great crops of cereals. The Tidewater counties produce great quantities of 
early fruits and vegetables, which are sent to the Northern cities. The wild Scuppernong 
grapes of the seaboard are made into wine ; and Piedmont (and especially Albemarle) has 
extensive vineyards, orchards, and peach-groves. Peanuts grow abundantly on the light 
and sandy soils of the southeast, the product exceeding $2,500,000 a year. This industry 
has risen since the civil war, and since 1880 the consumption in the United States has 
increased from 2,000,000 to 5,000,000 bushels. The chief markets are Norfolk and Peters- 
Inirg. The nuts are polished and freed from earth in large iron cylinders, the discolored ones 
being used in confectionery. There are three varieties, white, red and Spanish, and they 
average 40 bushels to the acre. A fine table oil is extracted from them ; and locally they are 
used for flour, in making biscuit. 

The Virginia-leaf tobacco is famous the world over for its excellence. The best grades 
grow in the Middle and Piedmont districts, and the mountain and valley belts produce im- 
mense crops of coarse and heavy tobaccos. Blue grass abounds in the centre and west, 
making dairying and stock-raising important industries. The State has 251,000 horses, 
valued at $12,000,000; 590,000 cattle, at $7,000,000; 340,000 sheep and 417,000 hogs. 

Great areas of Virginian land are covered 
with valuable and productive forests, the yellow 
Virginia pine and the black and red oaks of 
the lowlands and middle region, the oaks and 
hickories of the Piedmont and Blue Ridge, the 
hard woods of the Valley, and the walnuts and 
tulips, buttonwoods and pines of the Alle- 
ghanies. The forests of the Dismal Swamp ,_i=^T:. 

]iroduce enormous quantities of pine and cypress, and are trav- 
ersed by two narrow-gauge railways from Suffolk. The sparsely 
settled southwestern counties are covered with heavy hardwood 
forests and great areas of white pine. The chief wild animals 
afe black bears and deer, wild-ca;ts and wolves, opossums and 
ground-hogs, otter and beaver, foxes and muskrats, rabbits and squirrels. Thousands of 
tuns of sumac leaves are sent from Virginia every year, successfully competing with the 
sumac of Sicily for the use of tanners and morocco-dealers. Sassafras oil is another valu- 
able article of commerce. 




PEAKS OF OTTER. 




858 A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Minerals. — Iron ores are found in remarkably rich deposits among the mountains, in 

unbroken beds from 20 to lOO feet thick and many miles long. The western foot-hills of 

the Blue Ridge for 300 miles are lined with brown hematite ore, and solid masses appear 

along the Alleghanies. The production of pig-iron in Virginia has risen from 30,000 tons 

' . in 1880 to nearly 160,000 tons, besides 40,000 tons of rolled iron. 

Iron can be made here at from $1 1 to $13 a ton, at the local 

blast-furnaces. 

The Flat-top coal-field, developed at Pocahontas in 1883, 

has sent out nearly 1,400,000 tons in a single year, equally good 

for steam purposes and for coking. 

Over .fia, 000, 000 worth of Virginian gold has been sent to the 

mint. Many mines have been opened along the great gold-belt, 

200 miles long, from the Potomac to the Dan. Sulphuret of 

copper (white pyrites) has been mined and reduced at the 

Arminius mines, in Louisa County. 

The largest lead-mines in the South are in Wythe County. 
WATER GAP, JAMES RIVER. The chlcf manganesc mines in the world occur at Crimora, near 

the Blue Ridge, and Waynesborough, which produce 20,000 tons yearly. The Holston-River 
gypsum-fields, around Saltville, send out yearly thousands of tons of plaster, of great value 
in fertilizing land. The southwest produces large quantities of salt, from the brine rising in 
artesian wells. Nearly the whole Confederacy east of the Mississippi was supplied thence, 
during the Secession War. This region is also famous for beds of gypsum. Zinc and lead 
ores are mined on New River. The fine gray granite of Richmond and Petersburg, 
brownstone of Manassas, fertilizing marls and green-sands of Tidewater, hydraulic cement of 
Balcony Falls, building-lime of Riverton and Eagle Rock, baryta of the Valley, pyrites of 
Louisa, asbestos of Pittsylvania, and slate and soapstone of Albemarle all have value. 

Pleasure-Resorts. — Old Point Comfort has been for many years one of the most 
famous pleasure-resorts on the American coast, frequented by well-to-do Northerners in 
winter and spring, and by the flower of Southern aristocracy in summer. Its huge Hygeia 
Hotel, with quarters for 1,000 guests, stands within biscuit-toss of Fort Monroe, and faces 
Hampton Roads, which afford safe harbor for countless vessels, from warships to yachts. 
The old Hygeia Hotel was built in 1821, by the post-sutler, and soon attained great favor, 
when the English, French and Spanish fleets came to Hampton Roads every season. 

In 1862 the hotel was demolished, to give opportunity for the batteries to fire on that 
side. In 1864 the Hygeia again loomed into notoriety, between the grim walls of the 
fortress and the flashing waters of Hampton Roads. The late Harrison Phoebus for many 
years owned and conducted the hotel, which, with its extensive additions and improve- 
ments, at his death in February, 1886, was sold to the Hygeia Hotel Company, his widow 
taking the largest individual interest. It is now managed by his old-lime associate, F. N. 
Pike. The young army-officers 
connected ■ with the United- 
States Artillery School board 
at the Hygeia; and the famous 
fort-band furnishes music seven 
hours in each day, in the sea- 
girt pavilion of the hotel. 
Among the entertainments 
found here are attendance on 
the military ceremonials in Fort 
Monroe ; steamboat - trips to 
Norfolk, and Portsmouth Navy 
yard; visits to the immense 




OLD POINT COMFORT : HYQEIA 



HT MONROE. 




PORTSMOUT 



SAVAL HOSPITAL. 



THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 859 

ship-yards at Newport News ; excursions to Cape Charles ; rides to ancient Hampton, the 
Soldiers' Home, and the famous Hampton School for Indians ; and capital bathing and 
boating in the blue waters which sweep up almost under the hotel. 

Nine miles distant, at Newport News, is the Hotel Warwick, a summer-resort look- 
ing out on the James River and Hampton Roads. Virginia Beach is below Cape Henry, 
facing the Atlantic, 17 miles by rail from Norfolk. It is a fine white strand, with deep 
woodlands behind and rolling surf before ; and guests are entertained at the handsome and 
modern hotel called the Princess Anne. On the lower Potomac, Colonial Beach, with its 
hotel and cottages, has become a favorite place of summer rest for Washingtonians. Inland 
are several popular summer-resorts, like Buford, with its great Glendower House, near the 
Peaks of Otter ; Liberty, eight miles from the Peaks ; Roanoke, in the lovely Roanoke 
Valley ; Mountain Lake, 4,500 feet high on the Alleghanies, near Bald Knob ; 
Wytheville, with its dry and equable winters ; Afton, 
high up on the Blue Ridge ; and Harrisonburg, in the 
Valley of Virginia. 

The famous mineral springs of Virginia are found 
mostly in the mountain-country. Among them are Blue- 
Ridge Springs, high up on the mountains ; Coyner's 
Springs, with sulphur, alum, and iron waters ; Farmville, 
with the strongest lithia water in America, which is 
shipped all over the country ; Lake Springs, near Salem, and overlooking the Roanoke Val- 
ley, with iron waters ; Roanoke Red-Sulphur Springs, ten miles from Salem, among the Alle- 
ghanies, and famous for their cures of consumption ; Alleghany Springs, on the headwaters of 
the Roanoke ; Montgomery White-Sulphur Springs, 2,000 feet above the sea, with a narrow- 
gauge railway down to the valley ; Yello'v Sulphur 
Springs, 3^ miles from Christiansburg, with a new hotel 
and bath-houses ; New River (Eggleston) White Sul- 
phur Springs ; Sweet Springs and Sweet Chalybeate 
Springs, near Alleghany ; Warm Springs (98°) and Hot 
Springs (110°), used mainly for bathing; Healing 
Springs, a mild tepid (85^) water, like that of Ems ; 
and Bath Alum Springs. Elsewhere in the Valley are 
the Rockbridge Alum and Jordan Alum, and the Cold 
Sulphur ; the Stribling and Variety Springs, in Augusta, 
and farther down the Shenandoah, the Orkney and the 
Rawley(iron) Springs, each more than 2, 000 feet above 
the sea. Bedford Alum Springs are close to the an- 
cient hamlet of New London, which was once captured by Tarleton's British cavalry, and 
more recently shelled by Hunter's Federal batteries. Near by is the Poplar-Forest estate of 
Thomas Jefferson, where he wrote the famous Notes on Virginia. 

The Government is administered by a governor, elected by the people for four years, 
and eleven executive officers ; the General Assembly of 40 four-years' senators and 100 two- 
years' delegates, meeting biennially ; and the Supreme Court of Appeals, with five judges, 
and county courts and justices of the peace. The State Capitol is a handsome old classic 
l)uilding in a park of eight acres, at Richmond, and contains the Statu Library, of 40,000 
volumes. It was modelled by Thomas Jefferson, 
after the Roman Maison Carrce, at Nimes. 

The State Penitentiary near Richmond has 870 
convicts. The Asylum for the Deaf, Dumb and 
I^lind is at Staunton. The Eastern Insane Asylum, 
founded at Williamsburg in 1773, is the oldest in 
the United States. The Western Insane Asylum Charlottesville : university of Virginia. 




HAMPTON : NATIONAL SOLDIERS' HOME. 




86o 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




LEXINGTON WASHINGTON AND LEE UNIVERSITY. 



was founded at Staunton in 1828; and there is also an Asylum at Marion. The Asylum 
for colored lunatics is at Petersburg. 

The Virginia Volunteers include the First Infantry, of Richmond, six companies ; 
the Third, of northern Virginia and Danville, eight companies ; the Fourth, of southeastern 
Virginia, nine companies ; and seven unattached companies. The First Battalion of Ar- 
tillery has five batteries, including the famous Richmond Howitzers ; and the First Battalion 
of Cavalry has five troops. There are two battalions (5 companies) and seven companies 
of colored infantry. 

United-States Institutions. — Fort Monroe was built by Gen. Bernard, formerly 
aid-de-camp and lieut. -general of engineers under Napoleon, afterwards for many years 
Chief Engineer of the United-States Army, and subsequently Minister of War under Louis 
Philippe until 1837. The fortress was designed to defend Hampton Roads and Norfolk, 

to cover the interior navigation between Chesa- 
peake Bay and Pamlico Sound, and to afford a 
naval place of arms and rendezvous between the 
Middle and Southern States. Its construction 
began in 1819, when Monroe was President, and 
the works have cost nearly $3,000,000. The fort 
covers 80 acres, with granite walls 35 feet high, 
and a broad encircling moat. On the seaward fronts 
there are detached casemated batteries. The in- 
terior parade-ground is surrounded by barracks and 
officers' quarters, and dotted with large live oaks. 
The United-States Artillery School was founded at Fort Monroe in 1824, and has been dis- 
continued when the armies needed all their officers. It is now a school for the practical 
study of artillery, where young graduates of West Point are sent upon application. 

At Hampton, two miles from Fort Monroe, is the Southern Branch of the National 
Home for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers. The handsome building of the Chesapeake Female 
College was the nucleus of a large number of other fine buildings, which are surrounded by 
beautiful flower-adorned grounds looking out on the historic Hampton Roads and Old Point 
Comfort. The Ward Memorial Hall contains the great dining-hall and theatre. The 
3,000 veterans have a fine military band, and go through drills and inspections in true military 
style. In the beautiful cemetery adjoining are the graves of over 6,000 dead heroes. 

The old single-turret monitors Wyandotte, 
Mahopac, Manhattan, Lehigh, Canonicus and 
Ajax are laid up in ordinary in the James 
River, just below Richmond. 

The United-States Navy Yard at Gosport, 
Portsmouth, opposite Norfolk, was founded 
by the British before the Revolution, and 
afterwards used by the Virginia Navy. In 
1801 the Government bought it, and here were 
built the St. Lawrence, Powhatan, Colorado, 
Roanoke, and Richntoiid. In 1 86 1 the retreating Federal garrison destroyed the yard, and 
nine warships ; but the National forces reoccupied it about a year later. It is now kept 
in first-class order, with large shops and storehouses and docks. There is a very spacious 
and handsome Naval Hospital near by, built in 1828-9, ^.t a cost of $2,000,000, and 
accommodating 600 persons. It is surrounded by beautiful grounds. 

The National Cemeteries are at Arlington, opposite Washington, with 16,292 graves; at 
Alexandria, 3,524; at Ball's Bluff (near Leesburg), 25; at City Point, 5,158; at Culpeper, 
1,368; at Danville, 1,328; at Fort Harrison, 817; at Fredericksburg, 15,273; at Glen- 
dale, 1,198; at Hampton, 6,174; at Poplar Grove, 6,199; ^*^ Richmond, 6,542; at Seven 




LEXINGTON VIRGINIA MILITARY INSTITUTE 



THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



86 1 




SALEM : 
ROANOKE COLLEGE AND ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 



Pines, 1,371 ; at Staunton, 757; at Winchester, 4,481 ; at Yorktown, 2,183. These 75,000 
men, and the uncounted myriads lying in unmarked graves on the Peninsula and between 
the Potomac and the Rapidan, are a part of the cost of restoring Virginia to the Union of 

States, so many of which were her children. 

Education is conducted under the system 
founded in 1870, with primary, intermediate, 
scientific and university teaching, administered by 
the Board of Education, at a yearly cost of above 
$1,500,000, and with school-property valued at 
$2,000,000. The normal schools for whites are 
at Farmville, Williamsburg and the University of 
Virginia ; those for colored pupils are at Hamp- 
ton and Petersburg. The University endowed at 
Henrico in 1619, and the projected Accadeiiiia 
Virginiensis ct Oxoiiensis, planned in 1621, having 
come to naught, in 1691 the Colonial Assembly sent Blair to England to secure a charter 
for a college. Attorney-General Seymour demurred ; and when the envoy suggested that 
Virginians had souls to save, he roared : "Souls! Damn your souls! Make tobacco!" 
Nevertheless, the charter was given, in 1693, and the College of William and Mary, well 
endowed by England and Virginia, opened its courses at Williamsburg, being second only 
to Harvard in point of age. William and Mary of England gave it rich gifts ; and Sir 
Christopher Wren designed the buildings. For over a century this was the chief Southern 
school of statesmen, with President Monroe, Chief- Justice Marshall, Thomas Jefferson, the 
Randolphs and many others as students, 
and George Washington as chancellor. The 
institution flourished until i860, when its 
professors and students went to the war. 
The college was burnt, and, although rebuilt 
after peace came, financial embarrassment 
closed its gates within a few years. It is 
now used as a State Normal College for men, receiving 
$10,000 a year from the treasury of the Commonwealth. 

The University of Virginia was opened in 1825, ^=^ 
mainly through the efforts of Thomas Jefferson, who \ 
founded here a seat of the highest learning, broad, un- 
sectarian, devoted to science and liberty, and "a nursery 
of republican patriots, as well as genuine scholars." 
He watched over it with zealous care, until this institution became (as it has ever since 
remained) one of the leading intellectual forces of America. The University occupies a beau- 
tiful and extensive estate in the foot-hills of the Blue Ridge, close to the interesting old town 
of Charlottesville. The arrangement of the buildings is almost monastic in effect, having 
four parallel ranges, each 600 feet long, of cell-like one-story dormitories for the students, 
with cloister-like arcades and colonnades stretching along their fronts, and several larger 
structures breaking the sky-lines, and used for society halls, boarding-houses, and profes- 
sors' houses. The outer buildings front on the roads, the inner ones on a great lawn, which 

is dominated at one end by the Rotunda, 
modelled nearly after the Roman Panth- 
eon, and adorned with a very striking 
and classical marble portico. The upper 
part of this noble building contains the 
library, of 50,000 volumes, in a circular 
HAMPTON ; NORMAL AND AGRICULTURAL INSTITUTE. hall, surrouuded by Coriuthian columns, 




CROZET : MILLER MANUAL-LABOR SCHOOL. 




862 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

and adorned with portraits and Gait's statue of Jefferson. These are the ancient buildings 
of the University, designed by Jefferson. The more modern additions include the_ Lewis 
Brooks Museum of Natural History, with its great collections; the observatory, built by the 
munificence of Leander J. McCormick, of Chicago, and containing one of the largest re- 
fracting telescopes in the world ; the handsome stone chapel in Gothic architecture ; and 
the experimental farm. The University has 30 professors and instructors, and 460 students, 
15 of whom are from the North. Of these 250 are academical, I20 law, ICX3 medical, 30 
engineering, two pharmaceutical, and four agricultural. There are 19 distinct and autonom- 
tic schools, on the elective system, and several post-graduate courses. White male students 
from Virginia, after passing an entrance examination, are taught free of cost. The yearly 
income of the University is $90,000; and $900,000 has been given to it since the close of 
the war. Among the many munificent gifts, the Hon. Cyrus H. McCormick, of Chicago (a 
Virginian born), gave $40,000; and W. W. Corcoran, of Washington, $60,000. 

The first classical school in the Valley was Augusta Academy, founded in 1749, by the 
Scotch-Irish Presbyterians. This institution grew into the famous Liberty Hall Academy, 
which George Washington endowed with a large property given to him by the State of Vir- 
ginia, after which (in 1813) it took the name of Washington College. Gen. Robert E. Lee, 
late commander of the Confederate army, held the presidency of the institution from 1865 
until his death, in 1870. In those last years. Gen. Lee always taught his young Virginians 
loyalty to and faith in the United States, as their paramount duties. His remains lie in a 
crypt under the college chapel, over which, and visible from the audience room, is Valen- 
tine's noble recumbent statue of the Southern chieftain. In 187 1 the Legislature named 
the institution the Washington and Lee University. George Peabody, of Massachusetts and 
London, gave it $250,000, and Thomas A. Scott, of Pennsylvania, gave it $60,000. The 
property of the University, at Lexington, is worth $600,000. 

The Virginia Military Institute, founded at Lexington in 1839, bases its instruction and 
government upon those of West Point, and has a four-years' course, largely devoted to 
science and the modern languages. There are 400 cadets. The State pays $15,000 a year 
for the board and tuition of 50 students. The corps of cadets marched into the Valley, 
in 1864, and suffered heavy losses in Early's campaign against the United-States forces; 
and Gen. Hunter's Federal army destroyed the institute buildings. More than half of the 
graduates were killed or wounded in the Secession War. 

The Virginian Agricultural and Mechanical College and the United-States Experiment 
Station occupy a farm of 325 acres at Blacksburg, in the Valley. There are 1 10 students, under 
military instruction and discipline. The Miller Manual-Labor School was founded by private 
munificence, at Crozet, in 1S78, and has above 200 students, in wood and iron-working and 
agriculture. The endowment is $1,000,000. Roanoke College pertains to the Evangelical 
Lutheran Church, and dates from 1853. It is at Salem, in the rich and picturesque Roanoke 
Valley ; and has a Main Building, East and West Halls, and the Bittle Memorial Library 
(18,000 volumes), in pleasant grounds of 20 acres. There are lOO collegiate students. 
Several Mexican and Japanese youths have studied here ; and it is a favorite school for 
Choctaw Indians, whose leading men have been graduates of Roanoke. Randolph-Macon 
College has a dozen buildings, on an oak-shaded campus of 12 acres, in the pleasant village 
of Ashland, 16 miles north of Richmond. There are 17 instructors and 200 students. The 
college was founded by the Virginia Methodist-Episcopal Conference, at Boydton, and 
named for the representatives in Congress of the neighboruig districts. Stephen Olin was 
the first president, from 1832 to 1838. In 1868 it was moved to Ashland. The prepara- 
tory department is the beautiful new Randolph -Macon Academy, at Liberty. Richmond 
College was founded by the Baptists in 1830, and took its present name in 1843. Turned 
into barracks in 1861-5, it re-organized the year after the war, and now has a handsome 
modern building, on a campus of 13 acres. There are nine professors and 150 students 
(mostly Virginians). 



THE STATE OE VIRGINIA. 



863 



Emory and Henry College, named for Bishop John Emory and Patrick Henry, was 
founded by the Methodists in 1838, in a beautiful valley, nine miles east of Abingdon. 
Hampden-Sidney was founded as a Presbyterian academy, in 1776, and bears the names of 
the two great English patriots. It became a college in 1783, and occupies a domain of 250 
acres, not far from Appomattox. This venerable institution has six professors and 100 
students. The law-schools are at Richmond, Lexington and Charlottesville, and the medi- 
cal colleges at Charlottesville and Richmond. 

The Episcopal Theological Seminary stands on the heights back of Alexandria, com- 
manding a grand view of Washington and the Potomac River. It was founded in 1823, and 
has a three-years' course. Salem has the Lutheran Theological Seminary (founded at Lex- 
ington, S. C, in 1 831). Hampden-Sidney has the Presbyterian Seminary, dating from 
1824; and St. -John's Theological Seminary, of the Catholics, is at Norfolk. The Metho- 
dists have divinity schools at Randolph-Macon and Emory and Henry Colleges. 

The Hampton Normal and Agricultural Institute was opened in 1868, by the American 
Missionary Association, and is supported in part by the State of Virginia, as an agricultural 
school for negroes; in part by the United- States Government, which pays the personal expenses 
of 120 Indian students ; and in part by charitable persons, from whom it receives $60,000 a 
year. It is not a Government institution, but a private corporation, owning its property, 
and administered by 17 trustees. It educates by self-help, most of the students paying by 
their labor for their board, clothing and books. It aims by training the hand, the head and 
the heart to fit selected youth of the Negro and Indian races to be examples to, and teachers 
of, their people. The students of the two races are usually kept separate, and are friendly, 
but not intimate. The school was founded for the freedmen, but in 1878 Kiowa, Cheyenne 
and Sioux Indians were added. There are 80 officers and about 700 students (one fifth Indians), 
besides 300 in the preparatory school. The students include both boys and girls, the 
former being drilled in a battalion of six companies, under an army officer. The property 
of the school is worth $500,000, and includes two large farms, and many commodious build- 
ings. The founder and principal of this wonderful school is Gen. S. C. Armstrong. 

Railroads. — The Atlantic Coast Line is a splendidly organized service on various con- 
necting routes, giving the best possible convenience for travellers between New England 
and New York and Charleston, Savannah and Brunswick, Mobile and New Orleans, and the 
pleasure-resorts of the Florida peninsula. To make this long and important national route of 
the highest utility, the independent companies over whose rails it passes 
lave given its trains the right of way, so that Pullman sleeping and 
5uffet cars run without change from Boston to Jacksonville, in about 40 
lours. This is the favorite route from the great Northern cities to the 
capital of the Old Dominion, the chief cities and 
winter-resorts of the Carolinas and Georgia, and 
the semi-tropical beauties of the Land of Flowers. 
At Tampa Bay it connects with steamships for 
Key West and Havana. Travellers along the 
Eastern sea-board of the United States find an 
ideal route in the Atlantic Coast Line. This grand 
combination of routes was planned and brought 
about by William T. Walters, of Baltimore, and his following. Mr. Walters is now the 
president of the Atlantic Coast Line Company, and a managing director in each of the 
dozen or more corporations now united under this control, and covering the South- Atlantic 
States with a net-work of first-class railways. The Norfolk & Western Jvailroad runs from 
Norfolk to Lynchburg and the mountains of Kentucky and Tennessee, connecting with the 
East Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia line ; and down the Shenandoah Valley from Roanoke 
into Maryland. The Chesapeake & Ohio, from Newport News through th(i.mountains to 
Cincinrwti ; and the Richmond & Danville, are important routes. 




RICHMOND . ATLANTIC COAST LINE DEPOT. 







GLASGOW 
.. SQUIER MFG. CO. 



864 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STAIRS. 

The Manufactures of Virginia have increased very much since the vi^ar, and the machine 
and locomotive works of Richmond, Glasgow and Roanoke ; the tobacco-factories of 
Lynchburg, Petersburg and Danville ; the Haxall flour-mills of Richmond ; are famous. 

At Glasgow, Virginia, is to be the great plant of the George L. Squier Manufacturing 
Company, the famous makers of rice, sugar and coffee plantation machinery. The plant, 
with its seven acres and its well-constructed brick buildings, will 
be one of the most notable enterprises in Virginia. The business 
was established in 1857, at Buffalo (N.Y.), where part of it is still 
conducted. In New- York City are the main sales-rooms and 
warehouses. The company was incorporated in 1884, and has a 
paid-in capital of $200,000. The Squier machinery is in use in 
every tropical country and island of the world, but the largest 
part of it goes to Mexico and Central and South America. No 
house in America makes so large a variety of the machinery used 
in handling rice, sugar and coffee, and no concern controls so many 
patents pertaining to vacuum-pans and pumps, clarifiers, evapora- 
tors, charcoal and bag filters, cane-mills, double and triple effects, centrifugal machines, and 
steam engines. The Squier catalogues are in English, Spanish and Portuguese ; and the 
company keeps several expert engineers setting up their machines in the tropics. There are 
100 different sizes and styles of sugar-mills, and other machinery in proportion, so they make 
several hundred different machines, adapted to various countries. Everything needed in the 
rice, sugar and coffee industries is furnished from general stock or especially designed to 
meet any requirements, the George L. Squier Company being engineers as well as machinists. 
The making of cigarettes has brought a world-wide patronage to Richmond, where the 
old house of Allen & Ginter was the first ever to use for cigarette-making the pure and aro- 
matic \ irgin leaf tobacco, which is grown exclusively in 
Vugmia and North Carolina. After a successful career, 
the house has become the Allen & Ginter Branch of the 
Ameiican Tobacco Company, having $25,000,000 of 
capital, and which owns and operates practically all 
the tigaiette factories in this country. This branch 
has the distmction not only of being the pioneer in 
the adoption of Virginia tobacco for cigarettes, but 
also of having made the highest grades, and 
to day the greater part of all the highest 
cost cigarettes are made here. The finest 
cigarettes are hand-made, and it is remark- 
able to see the speed and accuracy attained 
Dy the long rows of girls who roll, paste, 
tiim, count and pack the famous Richmond 
Straight Cut No. i cigarettes, 
a brand well-known by smok- 
ers everywhere. Other brands 
machinery. There are em- 
ail white, and mostly girls of 
the Allen & Ginter Branch 
made each year, mainly of the 
value of the output surpasses 




MAIN FAOTOBV 




are made by ingenious 

ployed 1,500 operatives, 

from 15 to 25 years. At 

600,000,000 cigarettes are 

finest qualities, so that the 

that of any cigarette factory in the world. Besides cigarettes, of which there are a number 

of brands and varieties, the Richmond Gem, Curly Cut, and fancy mixtures in smoking 

tobaccos areiilso produced. Major Lewis Ciinter, one of the founders of the old firm, and 

John Pope are the managing directors of this branch of the company. 



STORAGE WAREHOUSE. 
RICHMOND : ALLEN & GINTER, 




HI5T0RY. 

There was a Greek mari- 
ner, Juan de Fuca of Cepha- 

lonia, who claimed to have 

explored these shores and 

entered the Strait in 1592. 

Bancroft, Winsor and other 

authorities maintain that he 

never saw the Northwest 

Coast ; yet all the naviga- 
tors of the last century called the Strait after the Cepha- 
lonian pilot. The first modern explorer of the Washington 
coast was Juan Perez, cruising in the Spanish transport 
Scmtiago, in 1774. A year later, Bruno Heceta examined 
the shores for a great distance. In 1778 Capt. James Cook 
sailed along the coast in the Resolution, a British naval 
vessel, making careful explorations. In 1787 Capt. Bar- 
clay saw, and in 1788 Capt. Meares explored, the Strait, 
under the British flag ; and fur-traders cruised along the 
coast, buying sea-otter furs from the Indians. 

Now at last the Stars and Stripes flashed across the 
Northwestern seas, when six Boston merchants sent out 
Capt. John Kendrick and the ship Cohiinhia, and Capt. 
Robert Gray and the sloop Lady Washington, to trade with 
the Indians for furs. In 1789 Capt. Gray entered several 
Washington harbors ; and two years later he discovered and 
named Gray's Harbor, and ascended for 25 miles the great 
river, to which he gave the name of his ship, the Columbia. 
Spain claimed all these coasts by virtue of discovery, and 
her officers erected defences on Vancouver Island, and cap- 
tured several British trading vessels. In 1790 Great Britain 
extorted from Spain a treaty allowing her people to trade and 
settle here. In 1 791-2 George Vancouver, an officer of the 
British navy, explored much of the Northwest Coast, and 
the island which bears his name ; and took formal posses- 
sion of the country from 39° 20' to the Strait of Fuca, in the name of the British Govern- 
ment. In 1805 Lewis and Clarke, with an exploring party of American soldiers, descended the 
Clearwater, Snake and Columbia Rivers to the Pacific Ocean, and wintered on the Coast. 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at Tumwater. 

Settled in 184^ 

Founded by . . New Englanders. 
Became a State, 
Population, in 1860, 
In 1870, .... 
In 1880, .... 

White, . . . 

Colored, . . . 

American-born, 

Foreign-born, . 

Males, . . . 

Females, . . . 
In 1890 (U. S. census). 
Voting Population, 
Area (square miles), . 
U.-S. Representatives (I 
Militia {Disciplined), 
Counties, . . . 
Post-offices, . 
Railroads (miles), 
Vessels, . . 
Tonnage, . . 
Net Debt (1890), 
Assessed Valuation of 

Property (in 1890), 
Farm Land (in acres), 
Farm-Land Values, . 

Farm Products (yearly) 
Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 29,247 

Newspapers, '94 

Latitude, . . . 45° 40' to 49° N. 
Longitude, . . . 117" to 124° W. 
Temperature, . . . — 31° to 104° 
Mean Temperature (Steilacoom), 51° 

TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of i8qc.) 

Seattle 42,837 

Tacoma 36,006 

Spokane Falls, 19,922 

Walla Walla, 4.709 

Olympia 4,698 

Port Townsend, 4.558 

Fairhaven, . . .... 4,076 

Whatcom 4.059 

Vancouver, 3.545 

Ellensburgh, 2,768 



11.594 
23.955 
75,116 
67.199 
7.9"7 
59.313 
15.803 
45.973 
29,143 
349.390 
27,670 
69,180 
893). 2 
1.145 
34 
701 
1.783 
191 
61.724 
300,000 

$125,000,000 
• I. 409.421 
$13,844,244 
$4,212,750 



^66 



A*/A'C'S ffAKDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 





CAPE FLATTERY. 



For many years the history of Wasliington is 
only a record of the Hudson-Bay and Northwest 
Companies and their fur-trading posts and explora- 
tions. Together with Oregon, it lay in the terri- 
tory held in dispute between the United States and 
Great Britain, and jointly occupied by their citizens, 
until 1846, when it was definitively taken by the 
American Government. The growth of Washing- 
ton was very slow, owing to its inaccessibility, until 
the construction of the railroads eastward to Min- 
nesota and southward to California. Since that 
time a healthy and prosperous development has taken place. The pioneers of Washington 
came from Maine, Massachusetts, and other New-England States, and were followed by a 
larger immigration from Missouri and the Middle West. Gen. Isaac I. Stevens, U. S. A., 
led an important exploring expedition across the Rocky Mountains into Washington in 
1853, and held the governorship of the Territory for four years. He was afterwards killed 
at the battle of Chantilly, Va., while commanding a division of the Army of the Potomac. 
The Name Columbia was suggested by the people interested in having the new terri- 
tory set apart from Oregon in 1853; but Representative Stanton of Kentucky objected, 
pointing out the danger of its confusion with the District of Columbia, and saying that "it 
would be very appropriate to name a Territory 
situated on the distant shores of the Pacific 
after the Father of his Country." Representa- 
tive Stanly added : "There has been but one 
Washington upon earth, and there is not likely 
to be another ; and, as Providence has sent but 
one, for all time, let us have one State named after that one man, and let the name be 
Washington." The poetic imagination of the Northwestern people names the Walla-Walla 
country, "the Rhineland of America;" and Puget Sound, "the Mediterranean of the Pa- 
cific " and the "Gateway of the World;" and the ports of Seattle, Tacoma and Port 
Townsend are called, respectively, "the Queen City," "the City of Destiny," and "the Key 
City of Puget Sound." For many years the people west of the Cascades were known as "clam- 
eaters," and those on the east as "bunch-grassers." At the Constitutional Convention of 1889 
an attempt was made to have the Washingtonians known as "Chinookers. " The Chinook 
jargon is the language of the aborigines, trappers and squaw-men of the Northwest Coast. 

The United States early proclaimed the Canal de Haro to be her northwestern boundary, 
but Great Britain insisted that it should be the Strait of Rosario. The Archipelago de 

Haro (or San- Juan Islands), lying between these 
limits, was occupied by troops of the two powers, 
until the Emperor of Germany, acting as arbitrator, 
in 1872, adjudged the American claim to be right. 
The Arms of Washington bears a portrait of 
George Washington. The 
motto is Alki, a Chinook 
phrase, meaning "By and 
By," "In the Future, "or 
"Hereafter." It was adopt- 
ed by the first legislature, 
at the suggestion of Col. 
Michael Simmons,as a pre- 
sage of the future greatness 
of the Commonwealth. 




HOTEL TACOMA. 



THE STATE OF WASHINGTON. 



867 




PUGET SOUND. 



The Governors of Washington have been : 
Territorial : Isaac I. Stevens, 1853-7 > J- Pattoii 
Anderson, 1857; Fayette McMulIin, 1857-61 ; Rich- 
ard D. Gholson, 1861 ; Wm. H. Wallace, 1861 ; 
Wm. Pickering, 1861-7; Marshall F. Moore, 1867-9; 
Geo. E. Cole, 1869; Alvin Flanders, 1869-70; Ed- 
ward S. Salomon, 1 870-1 ; James F, Legate, 187 1-2 ; 
Elisha P.Ferry, 1872-80; Wm. A. Newell, 1880-4; 
Watson C. Squire, 1884-7 ! Eugene Semple, 1887-9 '■> 
Miles C. Moore, 1889-90; Elisha P. Ferry, 1890-3. 

Descriptive. — The topography of Washington possesses features of great interest, in 
its deep salt-water estuaries and sounds, its long mountain-ranges, and the illimitable roll- 
ing plains of the east. The State is 350 miles wide, from Idaho to the Pacific Ocean, and 
230 miles long, from Oregon to British Columbia. It is larger than the united areas of 
New York, Maryland and Massachusetts. 

The Cascade Range divides the State into eastern and western Washington, differing 
in climate and products, soil and topography. The east covers a wide area of open tillable 
and grazing lands ; the west, broken by many mountains and bays, is mantled by huge 
forests. Fully 20,000,000 acres are covered with timber, 10,000,000 with arable lands, 
5,000,000 with rich river-bottoms, and lo,ooo,"ooo with wooded mountains and mineral 
lands. The Pacific coast is followed by a broken northern 
continuation of the Coast Range, rich in forests, and reach- 
ing heights of from 3,000 to 5,000 feet. This rugged penin- 
sula finds its garden-spot in the famous Chehalis country, 
2,000 square miles of rich land running from Gray's Harbor 
to the Cascades. In the extreme north, at the head of the 
peninsula between Puget Sound and the Pacific, the Olympic 
Mountains cover 3,000 square miles, and their thickets and 
wide belts of timber long retarded exploration. Nearly all 
the year long these untrodden peaks are crowned with dazzling 
snow, and stand ranked like lines of battle along the Pacific, 
the Strait and the deep and dark Hood's Canal. The long 
valley between the Cascade and Coast Ranges is a thickly populated and pleasant farming 
country, 50 or 60 miles in width, favored by a delightful climate, and including the chief 
cities and oldest settlements. The great volcanic plateau of the Cascade Range runs north 
and south, covered on both sides with heavy forests, and including extensive table-lands, 
from 3,000 to 5,000 feet high, clad with nutritious grass. Volcanic eruptions have been 
observed here since 1810, and on some of the high cones the rocks are hot, and steam and 
smoke pour from their crevices. Deep canons cut into the plateau, and above it rise sharp 
volcanic cones, making a variety of noble scenery. North of the Stampede Pass the 
Cascades grow higher and more rugged ; and above the Upper Columbia they meet the 
Rocky Mountains, in a land of wooded ridges and pleasant valleys. In Washington the 
Cascade Range may be crossed at the Snoqualmie Pass, 3,110 feet high ; the Natchess, 
4,900; the Stampede, 3,980; the Cowlitz, 5,500 ; 
and the Cascade. Mount Tacoma, 14,444 feet high, 
is one of the most majestic and beautiful of Ameri- 
can peaks, and lifts its white crest high over west- 
ern Washington, visible for scores of miles. Eight 
great glaciers stream downward from its imme- 
morial snows, and out of their bases pour five 
rivers, the Cowlitz, Chehalis, Nisqually, Puyallup 
and White. Theodore Winthrop, one of the early 




THE SNAKE RIVER. 




OLD FORT WALLA WALLA. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




WALLA WALLA. 



explorers of this region, and Hazard 
Stevens, the first man who ascended 
the peak, state that the Indians 
called it Tacoiiia, signifying "moun- 
tain," but especially applied to this 
as the sovereign of mountains. In 
1792 Vancouver named it Rainier, 
after one of the lords of the British 
Admiralty. In the city of Tacoma the 
Indian name is used, and in Seattle 
Rainier is preferred. This chief sum- 
mit rises from vast and almost untrodden forests, and is nobly seen from the blue waters of 
Puget Sound. Near the Columbia River are the lofty volcanic cones of Mount Adams and 
Mount St. Helen's, each nearly 10,000 feet high, and visible over many leagues of the valley. 
In the north stands Mount Baker, 10,755 feet high, a volcano which had eruptions in 1843, 
1854, 1858 and 1870, pouring out vast volumes of smoke 2,000 feet high, and covering the 
country with ashes, like a snowfall. St. Helen's also had an eruption of ashes in 1843. 
The Cascade Range sends ofT numerous long ridges and plateaus to the east and south- 
east, clad with poor grass, sage-brush and scattering timber. The Yakima Valley is 20 by 
30 miles in area, and has valuable fruit and grain farms, carefully irrigated, and large areas 
of bunch-grass for grazing live-stock. Tobacco, hops and alfalfa are raised in this region. 
The Kittitas Valley covers an area of 20 by 35 miles, and is higher and cooler than the 
Yakima Valley. Ellensburgh is the metropolis of this region. 

The Great Plain of the Columbia, one of the chief agricultural regions of the Pacific 
States, is bounded by the Columbia and Spokane Rivers and the Idaho and Oregon fron- 
tiers. It is in the main an undulating grassy country, with broad areas of sage-brush. It 
was long supposed that this vast volcanic desert had no agricultural value ; but Dr. Bing- 
ham's successful experiments with alfalfa astonished all observers, and directed to the Great 
Plain thousands of farmers, whose estates are now attractive and prolific. The Big-Bend 
Country, near the centre of Washington, covers 4,800 square miles, a third of it gently 
rolling brown-loam prairie, suitable for farming, and the rest in low hills and plateaus of 
bunch-grass and sage-brush, where live-stock is ranged. The Columbia River curves 
around this volcanic plain, bounding it on the north and west, and partly on the southwest, 
for 200 miles, and flowing in a narrow valley 1,500 feet below the general level. The 
region is traversed by several remarkable chasms, like the Grand Coulee, scores of miles 
long, and from a furlong to half a league wide, with sheer walls of black basalt 500 feet 
or more in height. There are a dozen villages in this region, and hundreds of wheat farms. 
In southeastern Washington, between the Blue Mountains and the Snake and Columbia 
Rivers, lies the Walla-Walla Country, including 8,000 square miles, and rich in golden 
wheat-fields. Walla Walla stands in an immense rolling expanse of wheat, dotted with 
farm-houses and orchards, and bounded by mountains which rise by gentle slopes to snowy 
crests. At times this broad plain is visited by tall and tawny pillars of dust, resembling 
water-spouts at sea, and reeling swiftly across the country. The first settlement on the 

great plain was made at Walla Walla, by Dr. 
Whitman, the missionary hero, who saved the 
Oregon Country to the United States. The 
Palouse Country is a high rolling prairie, with- 
out timber, but abounding in wheat farms, on 
the loam produced by the decomposition of the 
volcanic rock. It extends from the Snake River 
i-jTs^^ northward for 150 miles, nearly to Spokane 

CAPE HORN, ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER. Falls, with an average breadth of 25 miles. 





PUGET SOUND : OLYMPIC 



FROM SEATTLt. 



THE STATE OF WASHINGTON. 

There is a vast area of bunch-grass pasture-land, 
with singular sugar-loaf buttes rising here and there, 
and small streams flowing between basaltic palisades 
and in the depths of forested gorges. The Spokane 
Country, around Spokane Falls, and the Colville 
Country, between the Columbia and Clarke's Fork, 
abound in plump white wheat and elephantine 
potatoes. 

The great Columbia River winds across the 
State, receiving Clarke's Fork and the Snake River (Lewis Fork), and cutting through the 
Cascade Range. Much of its course, as well as the courses of its tributaries, lies in cafions 
in the volcanic plateaus, although above the Big Bend there are bottom-lands, bordered by 
wooded hills and grassy prairies. The Columbia flows south from the frontier i lo miles to the 
Big Bend ; then west to the Okanogan, 93 miles ; south to the Snake, 220 miles ; west to the 
Dalles, 100 miles ; and west to the Pacific Ocean, 140 miles. Steamboats run daily from 
Portland up and down the river. Improvements are under way to make the Upper Colum- 
bia and the Snake navigable for grain-bearing steamers. The mouth of the Columbia was 
formerly obstructed by a perilous outer bar, but the United-States Engineers have straightened 
the channel, and hope to give it a depth of 30 feet. Even then the sea will break clear 
across it in stormy weather. Vessels bound in sometimes used to lie to for weeks outside 
the river, whose openings, five miles wide, and filled with racing breakers, resembled the 
rapids above Niagara. The Snake River is navigable for 150 miles in Washington, flowing 

through the lava in a canon from 1,200 to 2,000 
feet deep. Steamboats run semi-weekly from 
Riparia to Lewiston and Asotin, 84 miles. 
The rivers flowing from the Cascade Range 
bear odd old Indian names — Methow, Chelan, 
Wenatchee, Yakima, Snoqualmie, Klickatat, 
Cowlitz, Chehalis, Puyallup, Snohomish, Nis- 
qually, Steilaguamish, Duwamish, Nooksack, 
and Skagit. Some of them are traversed by light- 
The falls of Multnomah, Tumwater, Snoqualmie 
There are but two deep harbors on the 




SEA VIEW, NEAR CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT. 



draught steamboats, visiting their ports, 
and other localities are famous for their beauty. 
Pacific coast of Washington. Willapa (or Shoalwater Bay) covers a great area, and has 
valuable oyster-beds and fisheries, and possibilities of great commercial importance. The 
heart-shaped Gray's Harbor has several villages, with a large lumber-trade ; and steamboats 
ascend the Chehalis River twelve miles to Montesano, the shire-town. The chief harbors on 
the Strait are Crescent Bay, Port Angeles and New Dungeness. The Strait of Juan de Fuca 
runs eastward from the Pacific Ocean for 50 miles, with a width of from eight to twelve miles, 
and a depth of from 40 to 1 00 fathoms, and then rapidly widens into Washington Sound, 
containing the San-Juan Islands. The Strait ends at Whidby Island, 85 miles from the sea. 
Puget Sound is one of the most beautiful salt-water estuaries in the world, with its 
forest-clad borders and lofty mountains. The 
depth of water varies from 300 to 800 feet. 
At many points vessels of the largest size can 
be moored to the trees ; or, as Admiral 
Wilkes said: "A ship's side would strike 
the shore before the keel would touch the 
ground." The main entrance to the Sound 
is Admiralty Inlet, three miles wide, and 
with the singular channel of Hood's Canal 
diverging 58 miles to the southwest among ^^,^ ^^^^ ^^^^,^_ ^^^^.^^ ^^5^_ 




Syo 



A'ING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 



the mountains. Sixty miles from the mouth of Admiralty Inlet, and near Tacoma, Puget 
Sound is compressed from a width of from three to five miles into the Narrows, less than a 
mile wide, and five miles long, inside of which it widens away around many islands, to- 



wards 01ympia,with deep tidal 
of a wheel over nearly 300 
was a British naval officer in 
who gave his name to the 
sage, calling the rest of the 
1870 the name of Puget Sound 
as far as the Narrows ; and 
Bellingham Bay, or even to 
largest extension the Sound 



inlets radiating like the spokes 
square miles. Lieut. Puget 
the expedition of Vancoi-.ver, 
waters inside of Dana's Pas- 
Sound Admiralty Inlet. By 
had been popularly extended 
now it covers the waters to 
the Gulf of Georgia. In this 
has a shore-line of 1,600 miles. 
The exports of Puget Sound reach $9,000,000 a year, 
Washington ships 250,000 




GLIMPSE OF MOUNT ADAMS. 



and includes 2,000 square miles. 

two thirds of it along the coast, and the rest to foreign ports, 
tons of wheat to Europe yearly ; and when the Isthmus of Panama is pierced, grain-laden 
steamships can run from Puget Sound to Liverpool in three weeks, saving 40 per cent, in 
cost of shipment (which is now 35 shillings a ton). The nine mountainous islands of San- 
Juan County abound in scenic beauty, and the view from Orcas, their highest point, 2,440 
feet above the tide, includes the entire Archipelago de Haro, and the snowy peaks of the 
Cascade Range for scores of leagues. The 2,000 islanders are mainly fruit farmers and 
shepherds, and have seven churches and ten post-offices. Steamers run daily from the 
Archipelago, alternately to Port Townsend and Sehome. The islands have deposits of iron 
and mari)le ; and also make and export 400,000 barrels of lime every year. In a fine har- 
bor of Fidalgo Island is the new city of Anacortes, founded in 1890 for the western termi- 
nus of several railways (bridging a narrow channel), and a port for the steamship lines. 
Within three months the population rose from 25 to 3,000. Whidby Island, with 115,000 
acres, and Camano Island, with 30,000 acres, lie near the mouth of Puget Sound, and 
form Island County, which has 1,300 inhabitants, farmers, lumbermen and ship-builders. 
The Fisheries are of value and interest. The sounds, bays and rivers teem with 
valuable food-fish, enormous stur- 
geon, herring, smelt, sole, flound- 
ers, shad, and other varieties. 
Large halibut and cod dwell in 
Puget Sound, and outside. The 
fat black cod and the cultas (or 
buff'ctlo cod) are caught in vast 
numbers in the Strait and Sound. 
The Makah Indians kill many 
California gray whales off Cape 
Flattery ; and also dry yearly 
1,600,000 pounds of halibut, 
weighing from 35 to 250 pounds 
each. There are 10,000 fur-seals caught yearly, and many valuable sea-otter are shot by 
riflemen. The oysters of Puget Sound and Shoalwater Bay are shipped by hundreds of 
thousands of baskets, being highly esteemed for their delicate flavor. Clams and quahaugs 
are found in vast numbers. The salmon-fisheries of the Columbia, Shoalwater Bay, Gray's 
Harbor and Puget Sound amount to $1,500,000 a year. The fish are easily caught, and 
are canned, smoked and salted. In 1888 a fleet of Massachusetts fishermen sailed around 
Cape Horn, and discovered halibut off this coast. There are ship-yards on Puget Sound and 
the Pacific Coast, where many vessels are built from the famous red and yellow fir. Seward 
prophesied that "Sooner or later the world's ship-yards will be located on Puget Sound." 
A thousand vessels sail from the Sound yearly, bearing $9,000,000 worth of lumber, coal, 




MEDICAL LAKE 



THE STATE OF WASHINGTON. 



871 




WAITSBURGH. 






salmon and grain ; and the 
Washingtonians have already- 
built up a profitable trade with 
China and Japan. 

There are scores of beauti- 
ful lakes on both sides of tlic 
Cascade Range, and far up in 
the Columbia Valley. The 
chief of these is Lake Chelan, 
winding for many leagues 
among the mountains, in a 
lonely and unoccupied land. 
Medical Lake, on an ever- 
green and lava-strewn plateau, 26 miles southwest of Spokane Falls, is l^ miles long, and 
contains a great variety of healing minerals, giving the water a dark chocolate-brown hue 
and a smooth soapy feeling, and concentrated at the bottom in a jelly-like deposit a foot 
thick. Thousands of people visit the lake-hotels every summer, drinking and taking hot 
and cold baths, for the relief of rheumatism, catarrh and diseases of the skin and stomach. 
The Green-River Hot Springs pour out their iron, magnesia and sulphur waters in the 
magnificent cedar forest on the western slope of the Cascades, attracting many rheumatics 
and trout-fishers to the hotel near by. Yakima Soda Springs produce a valuable and 
favorite water, which is exported. Out on the coast, close to the lofty basaltic cliffs of 
Cape Disappointment, is the pleasant summer-resort of Sea View, where thousands of 
, vf' - '- ■ ^ - __ vacation tourists enjoy salt-water bathing, boating 

"" " and fishing. 

The Climate is singularly equable and moist in 
the west, with a heavy winter rainfall, and a mean 
annual temperature of 46°, cool in summer and mild 
in winter, and resembling the climate of southern 
England and the Channel Islands. The clear, 
bright summer days are succeeded by long 
northern twilights and cool nights. East of the Cascades the rainfall is light, and the mean 
annual temperature falls to 45°. The summers are hot and dry, and the winters short and 
cold. Spring begins in February, and lasts till mid-May, with a temperature of 52°, and 
considerable rain. In autumn the days are warm and bright, with frequent showers and 
frosty nights. From June to September little rain falls, and the weather is perfect for 
harvesting. The Chinook wind, balmy and perfumed, comes off the Pacific, cool in sum- 
mer and warm and moist in winter, usually gentle in its motion, but eating up the snow 
and ice with wonderful rapidity, and crossing the mountains with its benignant influences 
until it fades away in the upper Missouri valley. The east wind, coming down the Colum- 
bia Valley, freezing in winter, and hot and dusty in summer, is abominated by the people, 
but has only a short duration. Roses have bloomed at Seattle in December, and pansies 
at Walla Walla in January, and peaches blossom at Olympia in February, with snowbanks 
in sight of either in August. 

Agriculture has already made nota- 
ble progress and will probably become 
the leading industry. The wheat-crop 
reaches 15,000,000 bushels yearly. In 
Eastern Washington 820,000 acres of land 
are improved, and 133,000 in Western 
Washington. The east is suited for rais- 
ing a great variety of fruits and vegetables, MEDICAL lake: hospital for the insane. 




NORTH YAKIMA : HOP AND GRAIN FARM. 




872 



A'/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




YAKIMA valley; HOP CULTURE. 

and of the best quality as to flavor. 



5,000 men 
m u c h of 



tobacco and hops. Wheat-culture and stock-raising 
have already assumed considerable importance on these 
great bunch-grass prairies ; and hundreds of miles of 
irrigating canals flow through the Kittitas and Yakima 
and other valleys. Corn grows abundantly in the 
Walla-Walla Country. Western Washington produces 
great quantities of grains and grasses, vegetables and 
fruits. Prunes and plums, apples and pears, thrive and 
are largely cultivated. In 1S64 the entire crop of hops 
was one bale, raised as an experiment. The product 
in the State is now 40,000 bales, worth $1,500,000, 
A regular transport service has been inaugurated be- 
tween Tacoma and London, trains laden with hops running direct to New York to meet 
the steamships. The Puyallup Valley, near Tacoma, is celebrated for its carefully culti- 
vated hop-fields, covering many leagues, and yielding 1,500 pounds to the acre. The hops 
are picked by Indians, 5,000 of whom come hither in the harvest-time, in canoes up Puget 
Sound and on ponies over the mountain-trails — the women and children to toil in the fields, 
and the men to smoke and loaf. The measureless forests of Western Washington furnish 
masts and spars for England and France, for Chile and the Asiatic ports, of remarkable 
flexibility and tenacity of fibre, strong, light and free from knots and flaws. The Douglas 
(or red) firs sometimes reach a height of 300 feet, and yield spars 150 feet long and planks 
90 feet long. They are erroneously called Oregon pines. There are 
engaged in the lumbering industry, cutting yearly over 1,200,000,000 feet, 
which goes down the coast to San Francisco, or across 
to Australia. The busy saw-mills that have been 
working here for a quarter of a century have made no 
impression on the massive fir forests. 

The lumbering industry of Puget Sound is second to 
that of no section in this country, and even the great 
forests of Michigan are not superior to those of the 
North Pacific Coast. The timber is remarkably 
straight, and has for years been noted for its beauty, 
strength and durability. Before the use of steam- 
vessels became so common this timber was much 
sought after for spars. The older mills have been cut- 
ting for foreign trade, but as the country is being opened up there is a growing local and 
domestic trade. In May, 1888, the St. -Paul & Tacoma Lumber Company, of Tacoma, 
was incorporated, with a capital of $1,500,000. This company since their incorporation 
have been running full, employing 1,250 men, with an annual pay-roll of [$750,000. Their 
products are not confined to lumber, but include coal, stone and lime. Their plant com- 
prises some 80 acres in the city of Tacoma, consisting of saw-mills and dry-kilns, and over 
150,000 acres of timber-land in the vicinity, and 5,000 acres of coal-land, with one of the 

most extensive mines in the State in operation. 
This company introduced much of the improve- 
ment in saw-mill machinery in the West, and 
was the first to dry lumber in the rough. This 
is for the convenience of the local trade, which 
last year consumed 80,000,000 feet. The St.- 
Paul & Tacoma Lumber Company received its 
name from the fact that several of its main offi- 
cers and owners were well-known and successful 
8T.-PAUL A. tacoma LUMBER COMPANY. busuicss men of St, Paul, who loret>aw a gigantic 




eiG LUMBER. 
ST. -PAUL & TACOMA LUMBER COMPANY. 



'.^(M 




THE STATE OF WASHINGTON. 



873 





THE MILLS AT TACOMA. 

-PAUL 4 TACOMA LUMBER COMPANY. 



outcome of their Tacoma investment. 
Their Tacoma city property in itself has 
enhanced in value sufficiently already to 
make an immense return. The manage- 
ment of this company is most conservative, 
centered within itself, free from all compli- 
cations of combines or trusts; and under its 
able management promises to become one of 
ST. -PAUL & TACOMA LUMBER COMPANY. the largest lumbcr corporations in thc United 

States, with ships of its own which may soon be 
found in all the lumber-consuming ports. 

Twenty-eight years ago, when the country 
surrounding Paget Sound was lined to the 
water's edge with the finest timber in the world, 
Capt. William Renton left his sea-faring occu- 
pation and made his first cut into the dense tim- 
ber on the outer line of Kitsap County. This 
was the beginning from which has sprung the 
largest saw-mill in the world. The mill was set 
up at Port Blakeley, and is known as the Port-Blakeley Mill Company. The capital 
stock is $500,000. Owing to the age of the company it is easy to understand that much 
of the territory possessed has appreciated enormously, and that it is now one of the 
largest properties in the Northwest. The total cut last year was 63,554,000 feet, of 
which 35,000,000 were for foreign shipment. The plant consists of two double rotary 

saws, two resaws of 60 and 70 inches, two 
gang-saws, eleven trimmer - saws, two lath 
mills and five planers. This requires two en- 
gines of 575 horse-power each, and ten smaller 
ones, making an aggregate of 3,000 horse- 
power. The plant has a capacity of 300,000 
feet a day, but on pressure 400,000 feet could 
be run in that time. The annual capacity is 
85,000,000 to 90,000,000. Capt. Renton still 
retains the superintendency, and lives in the 
little village of Port Blakeley, which is almost 
exclusively inhabited by the 250 employees of the company and their families. A remark- 
able fact connected with this gigantic enterprise is that Capt. Renton has been nearly blind 
for over 15 years, and nevertheless has never ceased to be the actual active head of the 
whole concern, successfully caring for all its 
details, as well as being identified with several 
important enterprises of Seattle and vicinity, 
and also as the senior member of the great 
lumber firm of Renton, Holmes & Co., of San 
Francisco. 

The creamy white cedar abounds along the 
Sound, and yields enormous quantities of the 
finest of shingles. Great white pines grow on 
the Cascade Range ; and in the east are thou- port-blakeley mills. 

sands of square miles of white and bull pines and tamaracks. The enormous forests of 
Washington abound in game — the great cougar, ten feet from nose to tail-tip, black and 
gray mountain-wolves, coyotes and wild-cats, broad-antlered elk, myriads of deer, and 
mountain-goats, lieaver and otter, grouse and pheasants, geese and ducks. 




PORT-BLAKELEY MILLS. 




874 



fCING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




5 '^z^ 
INDIANS ON THEIR WAY TO HOP-PICKING. 



Mining has already attained importance in Washington, which hopes to become the 
Pennsylvania of the Pacific Coast. Over 500,000 tons of bituminous coal and lignite are 
shipped from the rivers along Puget Sound, furnishing a large part of the supply for California 
and Oregon. The coal-product rose from 918,000 tons in 1889 to l,350,oooin 1890. Gold 
has been mined for many years on both sides of the Cascade Range, and extracted from the 
placers of the Columbia and Snake Rivers. Since 1 886 deposits have been found in the 
Okanogan region. The placers and gold-bearing ledges of Ellensburgh, Peshastan and Upper 
Clealum have been worked for years. Northwest of Colville are the productive gold- 
placers and quartz-lodes, silver and copper of Kettle River. The Colville Country has a 
score of mines of silver-bearing lead and silver chlorides. A railway is being built from 
Spokane Falls to Kettle Falls, whence the Columbia River can be navigated for 130 miles 
north, to the Canadian Pacific Railway. The Pacific Northwest is supplied with lime from 
the kilns on the San-Juan Islands. Greenish-gray 
sandstone comes from the Chuckanut quarries, on 
Bellingham Bay. There are granite quarries near 
Spokane Falls and Medical Lake, and in the Cas- 
cade Range and along Snake River. 

The deposits of iron ore in the mountains of 
Western Washington, notable for their extent and 
richness, are attracting great attention. This wealth 
has hitherto lain dormant, but preparations are now 
made for the reduction of the ore and the manufac- 
ture of steel on an extensive scale. This work has been undertaken by the Great Western 
Iron and Steel Company, with a paid-up capital of $1,000,000, and power to increase this 
to $5,000,000. The organizers of the company are Gen. R. A. Alger of Detroit, J. M. 
Sears of Boston, H. A. Noble of Chicago, J. S. Fassett of Elmira (N. Y. ), Edward Blewett 
of Fremont (Neb. ), Peter Kirk and W. W. Williams, late of Workington, England, but 
now of Kirkland ; Bailey Gatzert, president of the Puget- Sound National Bank ; Jacob 
Furth, cashier of the Puget-Sound National Bank ; L. S. J. Hunt, proprietor of the Seattle 
Post- Intelligencer ; A. A. Denny and C. T. Tyler of Seattle. The officers are L. S. J. Hunt, 
president ; Peter Kirk, vice-president ; W. W. Williams, secretary ; and Jacob Furth, treas- 
urer. Its works are at Kirkland, on Lake Washington, and include already a foundry, ma- 
chine-shop, blacksmith-shop and pattern-shop. In November, 1890, a cargo of 2,270 tons of 
fire-brick was shipped from England, and this was followed a month later by a second cargo. 

For this plant 270 tons of machinery have been 
purchased. All the material for the manu- 
facture of steel — ironore, coal and flux — are 
to be obtained within a territory covered by a 
radius of 20 miles, with Kirkland as the cen- 
tre. The Northern Pacific Railroad is now 
being built to Kirkland and to the iron mines, 
and the matter of transportation has thus 
been provided for. Steel is to be manufac- 
tured, both in ingots and in rails, and the 
company expects to supply in large measure the markets of the Pacific Coast, as well as 
those of Japan and China. 

The Government has always had its seat at Olympia, and a recent vote for its perma- 
nent location resulted in 25,490 ballots for Olympia, 14,718 for North Yakima, and 12,833 
for Ellensburgh. Western Washington has one third of the State's area, and more than 
three fifths of its population. The National Guard of Washington consists of a six-company 
regiment, in the west, and a six-company regiment and a troop of cavalry in the east. The 
Hospital for the Insane, at Steilacoom, has 300 inmates. Another asylum was erected in 




KIRKLAND . GREAT WESTERN IRON 



STEEL COMPANY. 



THE STATE OE WASHmCTOhr. 



875 




18^^9-90 at Medical Lake. The Pen- 
itentiary, at Walla Walla, has 230 
convicts, largely occuf)ied in making 
brick. The School for Defective 
Youth overlooks the Columbia 

River, at Vancouver. The United- •'*"**^' " ^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
States military posts in Washington Seattle, and puget sound. 

were in the old days occupied by small detachments under Scott, Grant, Sheridan, Howard, 
Wool, and other officers. The chief garrisons now are at Vancouver Barracks, with eight 
companies of artillery and infantry; Fort Walla Walla, with five troops of horse; and 
Fort Spokane, with six companies. One company is stationed near Port Townsend. 
Vancouver is the headquarters of the Military Department of the Columbia, covering Wash- 
ington and Oregon, Alaska and most of Idaho. There are 1 1,000 Indians in the State, partly 
civilized, and dwelling on fertile reservations of 4,000,000 acres. The industrious and quiet 
dwellers on the Puyallup, Chehalis, Squaxon, Skokomish and Nisqually Reservations have 
received their lands in severalty. The Quinaielt Indians remain hunters and fishers. The 
Tulalip Agency controls 1,200 natives, farming on their allotments, and educated by Sisters 
of Charity. The Colville Agency superintends nine small tribes. The Yakima Agency has 

1,400 on the reservation, besides 1,300 wander- 
ing off it. The Neah-Bay Agency guards 460 
Makahs and Quillehutes. This reservation 
includes the stormy promontory of Cape Flat- 
tery, at the mouth of the Strait of Juan de 
Fuca, and the Indians are daring and expert 
in the pursuit of whales and seals. 

Education costs Washington $900,000 a 
year, distributed among 1,200 schools. The 
University of Washington was endowed by 
Congress with two townships of land, in 1854, 
and opened in 1862, at Seattle, where it has 
four buildings, on a pleasant tree-shaded campus of ten acres. ■ It is a coeducational 
school, with eight instructors, and 13 classical and 28 scientific students, besides 176 others 
in normal, business, music, art and preparatory departments. Whitman College, at Walla 
Walla, dates from 1866. The State normal schools are at Ellensburgh and Cheney. 

Chief Cities. — Seattle has a noble harbor, near the middle of Puget Sound, connected 
by a small canal with Lake Washington, a body of fresh water 20 miles long and from one to 
five miles broad, and deep enough for the largest ships. More 
than a thousand sea-going vessels visit this port every year, carry- 
ing away 600,000 tons of coal and many millions of dollars in 
other freights. From the six large steamship-docks, regular lines 
depart for San Francisco, Victoria, Sitka, and scores of ports 
on Puget Soupd ; and half a dozen railways diverge 
from Seattle to all parts of the Northwest. The 
residence quarter of the city stands on hills, with 
wonderful views of the Sound and the snowy 
Olympic Range, and the Cascade Range across 
Lake Washington on the cast. The business 
quarter occupies 200acres of low and level ground, 
fronting on the bay, with hundreds of acres more 
of the same land adjoining, available for business 
extensions. Seattle was founded in 1852, and 
named'after a powerf\il Indian chief of this region. Seattle; high ochool and hosfital. 




EAST SEATTLE AND MOUNT RAINIER (tACOMa). 




876 



KmC'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




It was besieged aiul well-nigh destroyed by the Indians, 
in 1856; and scourged by a $10,000,000 fire in 1889. 
Rising from its ruins, the city has fast developed into 
a commanding position among the ports of the Pacific 
Slope, and has every prospect of an almost unlimited ex- 
tension in vi^ealth, power and prosperity. By its own 
energy and resources, Seattle is building railways to Spo- 
kane Falls, to the Canadian Pacific Railway, and to Port- 
land, thus securing the terminals of several great trans- 
continental lines. It has many large wholesale houses, 
doing a yearly business of many millions, extending from 
the Rocky Mountains and the Columbia to the Yukon River. The local manufactures exceed 
$10,000,000 a year in value, and are rapidly increasing in volume and variety, and employ- 
ing larger forces of workmen and greater capitalization. With all this material prosperity 
at their command, the people have also laid broad and deep the foundations of a cultivated 
and intelligent community. The educational system includes admirable public and private 
schools and academies, culminating in the State University. The newspapers include four 
ably conducted dailies, and many other periodicals ; and the churches are numerous, and 
in several cases very attractive. Seattle's trade is chiefly in coal, lumber, hops, fishery 
products, manufactured goods and general merchandise. Its population has increased in 



SEATTLE : KING-COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 




SEATTLE, FROM HARBOR. 



?2, 500,000 to 



the past ten years from 4,000 to 46,000, and its assessable wealth from 
$35,000,000. No city has done better during that period of time. 

As Seattle forges ahead to a leading place among the great seaports of the Pacific Coast, 
she is rapidly adorning herself with metropolitan beauties and luxuries. One of the most 
notable of these new works is the splendid Seattle Opera House, now in course of con- 
struction, on Second Street, which will be to the musical and dramatic taste of the Northwest 
what the Metropolitan Opera House is to New York, or the Grand Opera House to Paris. 
The massive and monumental effect of the exterior and the refined 
and delicate beauty of the interior and its connected lobbies, show 
the best study of Adler & Sullivan, the architects of the famous 
Auditorium Building, at Chicago. The new opera house is being 
erected by the Seattle Building Company, which was incorporated 
in 1890, with a capital of $300,000, and includes among its stock- 
holders some of the foremost capitalists of the city, con- 
tinually on the alert for opportunities, to advance the 
development of the Evergreen State and the Pacific 
Northwest. The unusual commercial advantages of 
Puget Sound are being availed of by several fast-grow- 
ing communities, from where Olympia rests at its ut- 
most head, down to where the salt-sea gales sweep 
across the cities of the Strait. Foreign and coastwise 
commerce, mining and manufactures, farming, lumber- 

Adleritiulltmv, Architect). ' a > o' 

SEATTLE .- OPER* HOUSE. i"g ^^^^ P^fit hcrC. 




THE STATE OF lVAS///A'CTON. 




SEATTLE : HOTEL DENNY. 




SEATTLE . BAILEY BUILDING. 



The magnificent new Hotel Denny, at Seattle, 
is one of the foremost of the great hostelries of 
the Pacific Coast, and occupies a very advan- 
tageous situation. 

Tacoma is at the head of easy navigation on 
Paget Sound, near the Narrows, and has large lum- 
ber and smelting industries, and a warehouse and 
elevator capacity of 4,000,000 bushels of wheat. It 
stands on a bluff" 200 feet high, overlooking Puget 
Sound and the Cascade Range, with an inspiring 
prospect of the distant Mount Tacoma. At the 
wharves below, great ships are laden with lumber and other products for China, Japan and 
Australia. In 1873 the Northern Pacific Railroad Com- 5>" 1 ?' — - 
pany decided that the most advantageous western terminus 
of their road was the little village of Tacoma. The entire 
population then was only about 300 souls. Its buildings 
consisted of a saw-mill and the homes of the employees, 
over-shadowed by a great forest. At this time also the 
western terminus of the road was Bismarck, Dakota. Hav- 
ing decided upon this site, the railroad officials purchased 
there 3,000 acres, and 13,000 acres of additional and neigh- 
boring lands, and organized the Tacoma Land Company, 
which laid out the city at the head of the bay, and shortly 
afterward erected the Hotel Tacoma, costing $250,000. 
The capital stock of the company is $1,000,000. They originally owned the whole town, 

and have sold the land at constantly in- 
creasing prices. They have recently begun 
the erection of another hotel, and are build- 
ing it on the bluff overlooking and about 
400 feet above the level of the Bay of Ta- 
coma. It is to be of stone and brick, and 
will be five stories high. The parlors, 
lobby and dining-rooms will be on the first 
floor. Besides these, the hotel will con- 
tain 250 sleeping-rooms. The growth of 
Tacoma from a village with a population of 300 in 1873 to a well developed city of nearly 
40,000 in 1 89 1 is largely due to the Tacoma Land Com- 
pany, which is now building this hotel at a cost of three 
quarters of a million dollars. 

Spokane Falls received its first settler in 1878, and has 
risen from a village of 2,200 people in 1883 to a city of 
20,000 in 1890, with electric lights and water- works, street- 
cars and telephones, morning and evening newspapers, mes- 
senger-boys, great hotels, and wholesale houses. Several 
railways centre at Spokane, from the Cceur-d'Alene and Col- 
ville mines and the rich farming countries on the South. The 
Washington Water-Power Company, incorporated in 1889, 
controls the bulk of the water power at Spokane Falls, and 
owns 20 acres in the heart of the city, together with 20,000 
horse-power at the lowest stage of water. The power is con- 
sidered by expert hydraulic engineers one of the first of the - ,, , ^y^^^^^^.^ . ^ 

great .water- powers. It is entirely free from ice in the tacoma Tchamber of commerce. 




TACOMA : NEW HOTEL. 




-^78 



A'ING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 







Avinter. The water is very clear and free from grit, 

and the formation of the river-bed is basaltic rock, 

making it easy for improvements. The company has 

completed extensive improvements in the uver-bed, 

consisting of a dam 200 feet long, with masoniy heai" 

gates conducting the water several hundred feci 

through a pair of seven-foot iron penstocks to the 

new water-power station of the Edison Electric Illu- 
minating Company. These joint improvements aie 

among the best in the United States, and far excel 

anything on the Pacific Coast. The water-power 

company supplies power to a number of con- ^ 

cerns, the most important of which is the i 

Edison Electric Illuminating Company's 

station, whose plant (an interior view of 

which is shown) is the model water-power 

plant of the country. In it the power is 

broken up into small units, for the purpose 

of more careful regulation. Everything is 

put in in iron or granite, and 2,700 horse- 
power is delivered on the machinery-floor. 

The plant of the Edison Company is the 

largest individual lighting plant on the coast, and consists 

of 600 arcs and 7,500 incandescent lamps. The Water- 
Power Company is also in the milling business, and makes 

flour from the wheat of the Palouse and Big-Bend coun- 
tries. There are 150 employees of the joint companies. 

Finance finds its chief and oldest banking-house at Seattle, in Dexter Horton & Co., 

now closely allied with Ladd & Tilton, of Portland (Oregon), W. S. Ladd being its president. 
The Merchants' National Bank of Tacoma is one of the pioneer and largest banks of 

Washington. It was organized May 14, 1884, to succeed the Bank of New Tacoma, with 
a paid-in capital of $50,000. This was increased to f 100,000 
in May, 1888, and again to $250,000 in August, 1889. It now 
has a capital of $250,000, with a surplus and undivide_d profits 
of nearly $100,000. The deposits of this bank have exceeded 
$1,000,000; and it is known throughout the State, and, indeed, 
the Pacific Coast, as a solid and conservative institution. The 
total resources, according to a late statement, were $1,210,388. 
Their new building is six stories high, and is of a very simple 
but elegant style of architecture. The president is Walter J. 
Thompson, a well-known business man ; and the cashier is 
Samuel CoUyer, the son of the Rev. Robert Collyer, the famous 
blacksmith preacher. This is the pioneer bank of Tacoma, and 
one of the largest in the State. 

Railroads. — The Northern Pacific, from Idaho and the 
East, throws off branches to Coulee City and Lewiston, and 

then crosses the Columbia, and ascends the Yakima Valley, crossing the Cascade Range by 

a two-mile tunnel at Stampede Pass. It reaches deep water at Tacoma and Seattle, Ocosta 

and Willapa Bay. Another line follows Puget Sound, and another runs from Spokane Falls 
far up the Columbia Valley. The Union Pacific enters Washington from the south. The 
Great Northern Railway is building rapidly from Montana to Puget Sound, 750 miles, and 
will give passage from New York to Seattle in four days. 



SPOKANE FALLS : 

JiSON ELECTRIC 

ILLUMINATING 

CO. STATION, 

CONSTRUCTED BY THE WASHINGTON 

WATER-POWER COMPANY. 




TACOMA : 
MERCHANTS' NATIONAL BANK. 




78,677 
None. 



848 

54 

1,670 

1,328 

109 



In her history and charac- 
teristics West Virginia is of 
the West rather than of the 
East, and her early annals 
are full of the Indian wars 
and massacres, which equal- 
ly characterized other States 
of the interior. One of the 
first land-owners was George 
Wa.shington, who, vhcn working as a public surveyor, in 
1750, entered and patented for himself 32,000 acres in the 
Ohio and Great Kanawha Valleys. The first permanent 
settlers came from Pittsburgh, in 1704, and located near 
Philippi. Separated from the rest of Virginia by the 
formidable barrier of the Alleghany Mountains, the inter- 
ests of the western counties grew apart from those of the 
tide-water region, as to taxation, representation, the slavery 
question and internal improvements. Their commerce 
was turned down the Ohio, and their sympathies grew into 
harmony with the great States of the Middle West. The 
entire region was unfitted for the slave-plantation system 
of Tide-water Virginia, because no great farming estates 
could be established on these Tyrolese hills. Even now, 
but 4 per cent, of its people are colored, while over 40 per 
cent, of Virginia's people are of African descent. Yet 
here fell the most perilous blow of the Abolitionists' war 
against slavery. October 16, 1859, John Brown and a 
force of 22 armed Abolitionists captured Harper's Ferry 
and the arsenal, intending to raise the negroes of the val- 
ley in revolt, and occupy the Blue Ridge as a base of hos- 
tilities against the slave-holders. But the negroes failed 
to rise, and Brown was beleaguered by Virginian militia in 
the engine-liouse, which was stormed by United-States 

marines on the i8th. Ten of the insurgents were killed, '' 

seven (including Brown) were hung by the State authorities, and five escaped northward. 

The mountaineers of Virginia fiercely fought the Secession sentiment of the tide- 
water, counties, and when the State resolved to leave the Union, they refused to join the 



Settled near Phillipi. 

Settled in ... . ... ^1704 

Kounded by . . . I'ennsylvanians. 

Hecame a Stale 1863 

Population in 1870, . . . 442,014 

In 1880, 618,457 

White 592,537 

Colored, ..... 25,920 
American-born, . . . 6oo,iQ2 
Foreign-born, .... 18,265 

Males, 314,495 

Females, 303,962 

In i8qo (U. S. Censu.',), . 762,794 

Population to the square mile, 25.1 

130,161 



Voting Population (: 

Vote for Harrison (18 

Vote for Cleveland (li 

Net Public Debt, . . 

Assessed Valuation of 

Property (1890), 
Area (square miles), . 
U.-S. Representatives, 
Militia (Disciplined), 

Counties, 

Post-offices, . . . ■ 
Railroads (miles), . . 
Vessels, .... 

Tonnage 11,611 

Manufactures (j'early), $22,867,126 

Operatives, J4,35i 

Yearly Wages, . . . $4,313,965 
Farm Land (in acres), . 10,225,341 
Farm-Land Values, $133,147,175 
Farm Products (j'early) $19,360,049 
Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 119,900 

Newspapers 152 

Latitude, . . . 37^5' to 4o°37' N. 
Longitude, . . 77°4' to 82''40' W. 
Temperature, . . . — 10° to 97" 
Mean Temperature (Romney), 52" 



TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) 



Wheeling, . 

Huntington, 

Parkersburg, 

Martinsburg, 

Charleston, . 

Grafton, . . 

Clarksburg, 

Benwood, 

Moundsville, 

Hinton, . . 



8,408 
7,226 
6,742 
3,159 
3,008 

2,934 
2,688 



88o 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




CHEAT RIVER : THE H^AflT OF THE 
ALLEGHANIES. 



movement. April 22, 1861, the Clarksburg convention de- 
nounced the ordinance of secession ; in May, 25 counties sent 
Unionist delegates to Wheeling ; in June, 40 counties at 
Wheeling reorganized the State of Virginia ; in October, the 
people voted to organize the new State of Kanawha ; and in 
1S63 West Virginia became a State. At the outbreak of the 
late civil war. Confederate armies entered West Virghiia 
and began the destruction of the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad. 
Gen. McClellan advanced against the invaders, with several 
Ohio regiments, and fought a series of brilliant engagements, 
at Buckhannon, Rich Mountain and Carrick's Ford, the result 
of which was the retreat of the Confederates. In Septem- 
ber, 1862, Gen. Miles was beleaguered in Harper's Ferry, with 
12,000 Federal troops, and forced to surrender, after a bom- 
bardment from Loudon and Maryland Heights. The State was the scene of many fierce 
forays on both sides, and many a desperate fight was waged among its mountain-passes. 
West Virginia sent 36,530 soldiers into the Federal army, and 7,000 into the Confederate 
columns. Since the close of the civil war the young State has devoted herself to building 
railways, and developing her vast natural resources in lumber and minerals ; and her popu- 
lation has increased with great rapidity. Of her people 93 per cent, are native whites, a 
ratio imequalled elsewhere in the Union. 

West Virginia has often been called The Switzerland of America, and The Moun- 
tain State, on account of her high mountains 
and rugged hills, dashing rivers, and pure sweet 
air. She is also called The Pan-Handle State, 
from one of her chief geographical features. 

The Arms of W^est Virginia bear an ivy- 
clad rock (the emblem of stability), on which 
appears "June 20, 1863'" (the date of the State's 
foundation), supported by a farmer-hunter, with 
his plough and axe, and a miner, with his pick- 
axe, oil-barrels, and lumps of mineral. Below, two 
hunters' rifles are crossed, under a liberty-cap, 
showing that freedom was won and will be maintained by arms 
Semper Liberi ("Mountaineers are always freemen"). 

The Governors have been: Arthur J. Boreman, 1863-9; William E. Stevenson, 
1869-71; John J. Jacob, 1871-7; Henry M. Matthews, 1878-82 ; Jacob B. Jackson, 
1882-86; E. Willis Wilson, 1S86-90; and A. B. Fleming, 1890-4. 

Descriptive. — West Virginia is a land of great hills, falling gradually from the Alle- 
ghany Mountains, 2, 500 feet high, which in part form the eastern frontier, to the Ohio 
River. This westward decline is broken by the continuous ridge named at various points 
Flat Top, Cotton Hill, Gauley, Greenbrier, Birch and Rich Mountains, forming a pro- 
longation of the Cumberland Range, and lying from 25 to 40 miles west of the Alleghanies. 
Along the east and south are the plateaus bordering on 
Virginia, cut deep by the gorges of many streams, and fall- 
ing away to the Ohio, where the country has a gentler 
aspect, and is but 800 feet above the sea. The Pan Handle 
is a curious strip of West Virginia running northward for 60 
miles, between the Ohio River and Pennsylvania, and at 
some points only six miles wide. The North and South 
Branches of the Potomac rise in the mountains, traversing 
KANAWHA FALLS. long and narrow valleys, and uniting to form the Potomac, 




CRANBERRY GRADE 



ON THE BALTIMORE & OHIO R R. 

The motto is : Montani 




THE STATE OF WEST VIRGINIA. 




PARKERSBURG : BALTIMOR" i OHIO BRIDGE, 



for lOO miles the northeastern border of the State; and 
in the north the West Fork and Tygart's- Valley River 
form the Monongahela, into which the Cheat River 
flows, down one of the grandest valleys in the Atlantic 
States. The Great Kanawha (formed by the junction 
of Gauley and New Rivers) receives the Coal, Green- 
brier, Gauley and Elk Rivers, and empties into the 
Ohio. The Government has spent large amounts on 
locks and dams, to improve navigation here. This 
mountain-born stream is 450 miles long, and navigable 
to Kanawha Falls, 100 miles. The Ohio River forms 
the western boundary for 300 miles, and is continually traversed by fleets of steamboats, 
bearing passengers, freight and mails. The Little Kanawha is navigable by steamboats, on 
slackwater navigation, from Parker.=burg to the oil-regions of Burning Springs. The Guy- 
andotte. Big Sandy, Elk and other streams are much used by flat-boats and lumber-rafts. 

The Climate is moderate and healthy, and free from extremes of heat and cold, and 
from malaria or excessive rrtoisture ; and the clear highland air is favorable for consumptives. 
The rich blue-grass areas of the Greenbrier Valley and the glens of the southeast and the 
upland glades afford valuable farming regions ; and the Pan Handle is a rich agricultural 
land, blessed with abundant rains, and resembling the adjacent counties of Ohio. 

The Farms produce yearly about 16,000,000 bushels of corn, 3,000,000 of wheat, and 

3,000,000 of oats ; and employ nearly two thirds 
of the people. The chief rural avocation is the 
raising of horses, cattle and sheep. The Pan- 
Handle counties have large flocks of sheep, fa- 
vored by the limestone soil, abundant water, and 
genial climate. There are 1,600,000 head of 
live-stock. West Virginia ships yearly 300,000 
pounds of ginseng, a valuable medicinal root, dug 
m September in her mountain coves, and chiefly 
exported to China, where it is h«ld in great esteem. 

The forests are of great extent and value, and three fourths of the State still remains 
under the shadow of its oaks, black walnuts, poplars, chestnuts, wild cherry trees, hick- 
ories, sugar-maples, maples, white pines and other valuable woods. Immense lumbering 
operations are carried on, and tanneries .and wood-pulp mills have been erected in many 
localities. West Virginia probably has a larger area of standing timber, valuable for cabinet- 
work and building, than any other State ; and the streams are well adapted for logging. 

Springs. — The Greenbrier White Sulphur Springs flow in a lovely glen amid the Alle- 
ghany Mountains, 2,000 feet above the sea, and for over a 
century have been one of the favorite summer-resorts of 
America. In remoter days this was a fountain of health 
for the Shawnee Indians, and from 1770 to 1820 the white 
mountaineers resorted hither, seeking strength and recrea- 
tion. Between 1820 and 1S60, "the Old White" was 
the cherished resort for the wealthy rice and cotton 
planters of the Gulf States and the Carolinas, and the 
country gentlemen of Virginia and Maryland, coming 
hither in their cavalcades of ancient private coaches, 
with retinues of dusky slaves. Clay and Calhoun, Scott 
and Tyler, Fillmore arid Webster frequented this "little 
oasis in a desert of green and blue, " and drank its colorless ~^^ ' 

and odorous waters, curative of rheumatism, dyspepsia, Berkeley springs, 




GREENBRIER WHITE SULPHUR 




882 



A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 





WHEELING : 
POST-OFFICE AND CUSTOM-HOUSE. 



alcoholism, and many other 
maladies. The Berkeley 
Springs are the oldest 
pleasure - resort in the 
houth, and once belonged 
to the vast estate of Lord 
Fairfax, and were fre- 
quented by George Wash- 
i ington, who owned land 
^ and buildings in the vicin- 
ity. In the colonial days 
the Virginian gentry came 

hither to dwell in log-huts and enjoy the baths, and to 
hunt and fish and race their horses. The Gentlemen's, 
Ladies' and Lord Fairfax's Springs pour out 1,200 gallons 
of warm calcic water a minute, and there are a variety of baths and swim- 
^V ming pools Red Sulphur Springs, the favorite resort of President Monroe 
*J.y^ and Chief Justice Taney, with waters like those of Eaux Bonnes, in the 
Pyienees, Salt Sulphur Spiings, near Alderson, with their added attractions of iodine and 
iron waters ; Sweet Chalybeate, the Old Sweet, and Blue Sulphur Springs, in the same 
section of the State ; the Shannondale saline chalybeate springs, near Charleston ; the 
fashionable Capon Springs, on North Mountain ; and the Parkersburg Mineral Wells, are all 
well-known. The scenery of this region 

includes the emerald valley of Moorfield, l.^i^^fe^^^^^^^P'^?^^?^ 
with its high- towered sandstone rocks ; 
the needle-like pinnacles over the South- 
Branch glens ; the cloud-touched spires 
of Cathedral Rock; the mysterious tumu- 
lus of Moundsville, looking down on the 
fair Ohio meadows ; Hawk's Nest, a 
famous view-point on the New River ; the glens of Alderson, on the Greenbrier ; the beau- 
tiful Kanawha and New-River Falls ; the craggy canon of New River, enclosing the white 
foaming stream within its lofty ramparts ; the beauties of the lower Shenandoah Valley, 
now happily recovered from the ravages of war ; and the magnificent scenery around Har- 
per's Ferry, where the united Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers force the passage of the 
Blue Ridge, between the historic Maryland Heights and Loudon Heights. 

Minerals. — The coal-fields of West Virginia cover 16,000 square miles, with thick 
and easily accessible seams, especially near Fairmont and Clarksburg, and in the Poca- 
hontas and Elkhorn Districts ; and are fully exposed along the Gauley, New and Coal 
Rivers, and on the Great Kanawha, above Charleston. The coal-field exceeds in area that 

^^ ■ of Great Britain, and reaches 48 counties. Most of 

the coal is bituminous, with some pure cannel. The 
mines at Clarksburg yield a capital gas-coal, which is 
sent to many cities. West Virginia is now the fourth 
State in producing coal, and sends out yearly 7,000,000 
tons. It has become the second State in producing 
coke, sending out a million tons a year, the quality be- 
ing excellent, and the coke giving off an intense heat, 
with but little ash. The petroleum belt is from one 
to two miles wide, and runs from the Little Kanawha 
to the Ohio, through Wirt, Ritchie, Wood and Pleasants 
Counties, with its chief refining and shipping points at 




WHEELING AND THE OHIO RIVER. 



xTyii^' 




HARPER'S FERRY AND JOHN BROWN'S FQRT. 



THE STATE OF WEST VIRGINIA. 



88- 




WHEELING : MCCULLOCH'S LEAP. 



and near Park- 
ersburg. There 
are also large de- 
velopments o f 
petroleum in the 
northern coun- 
ties, Mononga- 
lia, Hancock and 
others. The 




BRIDGE ACROSS THE OHIO. 




newly developed Belmont, Eureka and Manning- 
ton districts have been large oil-producers, and 
millions of dollars have been invested there in boring for the treasures of the sand-rock. 
Natural gas is employed in many of the manufactories at Wheeling and elsewhere, and the 
supply is very copious. Iron-ore is found in the coal-hills, ready for the furnaces. The 
best is around Laurel Hill and at Beaver-Lick Mountain, where it yields 50 to 60 per cent, 
of pure metal. The south also is rich in this mineral. Braxton and 
Preston Counties have valuable seams now in use ; but the enormous 
beds of ore in the State are as yet slightly developed. Salt is a valuable 
product of the Kanawha Valley, which is lined with salines for many 
miles above Charleston. Mason and Braxton Counties also manufacture 
large quantities. In a single year 320,000 barrels of salt have been sent 
hence; but smce 1880 the product has fallen off, by reason of competi- 
tion from other States. Three fourths of the bromine of 
America is made by a company with its headquarters at 
Clifton. Sandstone, limestone, buhrstone, marble, alum, 
copper, fla§6tone and other minerals are found in the State. 
The well-known variegated marble pillars in the old Hall of 
Representatives, at Washington, were quarried in the Poto- 
mac River. 

Government. — The governor and executive officers are 
elected for four years. The legislature, of 26 four years' 
senators and 65 two-years' delegates, meets in January of every odd year, for a 45-days' 
session. The Supreme Court has four justices, elected for twelve years. There are 14 
circuit-judges, elected for eight years. The Penitentiary at Moundsville has no inmates; 
the Hospitals for the Insane, at Weston and Spencer, 550; and the Institute for the Deaf, 
Dumb and Blind, at Romney. These institutions are managed with wisdom and efficiency. 

Education is administered by a liberal system, with separate 
free schools for white and colored children. The State free 
normal schools at Huntington, Fairmont, West Liberty, Glen- 
ville, Shepherdstown, and Concord are very popular. Over 
$1,200,000 a year is spent on the public schools by the State, 
in addition to the local district taxation. Storer College, founded 
in 1867 at Harper's Ferry, by a philanthropic New-Englander, 
is a normal and industrial school for colored people. West- 
Virginia University grew out of the United-States Agricultural 
College land-grant of 1862, and was opened in 1867, with free 
tuition for young men of the State. Its campus of 18 acres 
overlooks the Monongahela River, near Morgantown. The 
State Agricultural Experiment Station, and a Law School (with 
three professors and 19 students) are connected with the Uni- 
versity. Bethany College, away up in the Pan Handle, 16 miles 
north, of Wheeling, is a co-educational Christian school, opened kanawha river ; hawk's nest. 



NEW-RIVER FALLS. 





BETHANY I BETHANY COLLEGE. 




8§4 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

in 1 841, and having seven professors and 70 students, with 700 graduates. It occupies a 
line of handsome collegiate Gothic buildings. The first president, and for many years a 
resident here, was 1 Alexander Campbell, a man of remarkable intellectual 

and moral ability, Ao. and the founder of the Disciples of Christ, or Campbell- 

ites. This sect rose IM.^ in half a century to a membership of 500,000. 

Chief Cities. — Wheeling, the metrop- 
olis of West Virginia, stretches along the 
Ohio bottom-lands, under the shadow of 
liold bluffs, and in a country rich in to- 
bacco and grain. It is farther north than 
Philadelphia. Among its many manufac- 
tures, those of iron and steel take the lead, 
employing 2,500 men, and gaining for Wheeling the title of "The Nail City." Some of 
the finest pottery and glassware manufactured in this country is made here. Several rail- 
ways converge here, and the Ohio River furnishes a valuable water-route, with Pittsburgh 
95 miles above (60 by railroad); Cincinnati, 365 miles below, and other ports. Charles- 
ton, the capital, lies in the Kanawha Valley, and produces vast quantities of salt from 
its springs. Parkersburg, at the confluence of the 
Ohio and the Little Kanawha, is the outlet of the 
petroleum region, and has refineries and manufac- 
tories. Martinsburg, in the Valley of Virginia, has 
large railroad repair-shops. Harper's Ferry was 
founded after 1732, by Robert Harper, an English 
immigrant; and in 1794 the United-States arsenal 
began its operations here. 

Railroads. — The Baltimore & Ohio Railroad 
enters from Maryland, on the east, and crosses the northern part of the State, at Grafton 
forking into the Parkersburg Division, and the line running northwest down Tygart's Val- 
ley to the upper Ohio and Chicago. The Chesapeake & Ohio Railroad crosses the south- 
ern counties, amid beautiful scenery of mountains and valleys, on its way from Cincinnati 
to Norfolk. The Ohio-River Railroad extends along the river for 215 miles, from Wheel- 
ing to Parkersburg, Point Pleasant and Huntington, 
with branches leading up the valleys. The West-Vir- 
ginia Central runs from Cumberland to Elkins, north 
and west, 1 13 miles. Several narrow-gauge lines are 
operated in the mountain counties. Railroad extension 
has gone forward rapidly since 1885, re'sulting in the 
development of rich lumber and mining districts. 

The Maniafactures are mainly of iron and steel, 
lumber and leather, glass and flour, and employ 15,000 
persons, with a yearly product of $23,000,000. Glass 
has been made at Wheeling since 1820, and 1,500 men 
are now engaged there in the manufacture of pressed table-glass and bottles. 

The Wheeling potteries make vast quantities of gran- 
ite and decorated ware, china and queensware. Wheel- 
ing also manufactures many millions of stogies, a peculiar 
variety of long and slender Kentucky-leaf cigars, very 
cheap but not very bad, smoked all over the West and 
Southwest, and in their humbler grades sold for a cent 
apiece. Their name is said to be an abbreviation of Con- 
estoga, from the rough-and-ready Conestoga wagons 

00 WHEELING * 

which rolled from Pennsylvania westward long ago. „pyNT pe chantal female academy. 



MORGANTOWN : WEST-VIRGINIA UNIVERSITY. 




HEELING : CITY BUILDINGS. 






H15T0K Y. 

All over Wisconsin, par- 
ticularly along the shores 
of the lakes, great and 
small, upon her river- 
benches, and crowning the 
summits of her rugged hill- 
tops, are the curious earth- 
works which are ascribed to 
the Mound-builders. As to 
their age, there is a wide difference of opinion among scien- 
tific observers. As to who the Mound - builders were, 
ethnologists are not agreed. Thus there is abundant room 
for individual speculation. It is, however, the opinion of 
many of the most careful experts, and the theory accepted 
by the United- States Ethnological Bureau, that the mounds 
are not the product of a race of people now extinct, as has 
been so long believed, but that they were built by the an- 
cestors of existing tribes of Indians — in Wisconsin, the 
Dakotas, of whom the present Winnebagoes are the lineal 
descendants ; and that while many of the mounds, particu- 
larly those in the forms of animals, are doubtless of great 
antiquity, possibly several thousands of years of age, others 
are of comparatively recent construction, — probably not 
more than a generation or two earlier than the arrival of the 
first French explorers. 

Nearly 2,000 implements and armaments of hardened 
copper, chiefly knives, axes, spear- and arrow-heads, drills, 
awls, beads and amulets, have been picked up in Wis- 
consin, chiefly in the lake-shore counties and on the shores 
of inland lakes, and sometimes in ancient mounds. Some 
maintain that these articles were fashioned ages ago, by a 
peculiar race of people, and that the art of hardening cop- 
per has been lost to the world ; while others there are who 
Vielieve them but little older than the French occupation, — 
and some have been so bold as to claim that the first Frenchmen who visited Lake Superior 
taught to the Indians the art of working the metal, just as other Frenchmen are known to 
have initiated the natives in the art of lead-working. We only know that nowhere else in 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at La Pointe. 

Settled in 1665 

Founded by ... . Frenchmen. 
Became a State, .... i8j8 

Population in i860, . . . 775,881 

In 1870, 1,0154,670 

In 1880, Ii3i5>497 

White, 1,309,618 

Colored, 51,879 

American-born, . . . 910,072 
Foreign-born, .... 405,425 

Males 680,069 

Females, ...... 635,428 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), . 1,686,880 

Population to the square mile, 24.2 

Voting Population, . . . 340,482 

Vote for Harrison (i8g81, 176,553 

Vote for Cleveland (1888), 155,232 

Net State Debt, .... None. 

Assessed Valuaiion of 

Property (1800), . $593,000,000 
Area (square miles), . . . 56,040 
U.-S. Representatives (m 1893), 10 
Militia (Disciplined), . . . 2,659 

Counties 68 

Post-offices 1,706 

Railroads (miles), . 5,584 

Vessels, 424 

Tonnage, 91,043 

Manufactures (yearly), $128,245,480 

Operatives, 57. 109 

Yearly Wages, . . . $18,814,917 
Farm Land (in acres), . 15,353,118 
Farm-Land Values, $357,769,507 
Farm Products (yearly), $72,779,496 
Public Schools, Average 
Daily Attendance, . . . 186,891 

Newspapers 529 

Latitude 42^27' to 47° N. 

Longitude, . . 86°53' to 92''53' W. 
Temperature, . . . — 42* — loio 
Mean Temperature (Madison), 45" 



TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- 
ULATIONS. (CENSUS OF 1890.) 

Milwaukee, 204,468 

La Crosse, 25,090 

Oshkosh, 22,836 

Racine, 21,014 

Eau Claire, 17,415 

Sheboygan, ...,■.,. 16,359 

Madison, 13,426 

Fond-du-Lac, 12,024 

Superior,. . . ... 11,983 

Appleton, 11,869 



A'ING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 



the United States have so many prehistoric copper implements been found, — many of them 
idei>tical in shape with those found in Ireland and Switzerland ; and in no other State are 
there so many interesting forms of prehistoric mounds. 

In 1634 Frontenac, then governor of New France, sent Jean Nicolet, a coicrettr dii hois, 
into the then mysterious region of the Upper Lakes, to make treaties with the Northwestern 



tribes, and induce them to trade 
Canada. He ascended the Fox 
lin, then proceeded southward 
Michigan on his way home, 
age. In 1658-9, Radisson and 
traders, visited Green Bay and 
thought) descended the Wiscon- 
In 166 1 they were back again in 
near where Ashland now is. In 
a mission at La Pointe, on Che- 
fort, on the main land. It was 
that the La-Pointe mission was 




LALLES OF THE WISCONSIN. 



with the French of Lower 
River as far as the present Ber- 
to Illinois, and reached Lake 
probably by the Chicago port- 
Groseilliers, two French fur- 
1 went up Fox River ; and (it is 
sin, and saw the Mississippi. 
Wisconsin, and built a stockade 
1665, Father Allouez established 
quamegon Bay, near Radisson's 
not until the present century 
removed to Madelaine Island. 



The Jesuit mission of St. Francis Xavier arose at Depere, at the first rapids in the Fox River, 
two years later. The Green Bay (or Bay des Puaiis) of the 17th century was not on the 
present site of that city, but at Depere. The place became an important headquarters for 
the fur-trade, although it was 1 750 before permanent settlement was established — the 
Langlades being the pioneers. Joliet and Marquette passed through here, in 1673, on their 
way up the Fox and down the Wisconsin, to explore the Upper Mississippi. The following 
year, Marquette coasted Lake Michigan, from Green Bay by Milwaukee to the Chicago 
portage. A similar trip was made by La Salle, in 1679 ; and it was among the islands of 
Green Bay that his vessel, the Griffin, was lost in a storm. The following year, Du Luth, 
a famous French trader, voyaged from Lake Superior to the Mississippi River, by ascending 
the Bois Brule and descending the St. Croix. Father Hennepin had, the same year, 
ascended the Mississippi as far as the site of Minneapolis, and on falling in with Du Luth, 
returned with him, by the Wisconsin and Fox Rivers, to Green Bay. In 1685 Nicholas 
Perrot, who had been at Green Bay as early as 1669, was appointed French "Command- 
ant of the West," and built a stockade fort for the protection of his fur-trade,' on the Mis- 
sissippi, near Trempealeau. In 1689 and later, Perrot established forts on Lake Pepin and 
at the mouth of the Wisconsin River, at Prairie du Chien. In 1692, Le Sueur built a stock- 
ade at La Pointe, and further fortified the Mississippi. Wisconsin is situated at the head 
of the chain of Great Lakes ; is touched on the east by Lake Michigan, on the north by 
Lake Superior, and on the west by the Mississippi ; and is drained by interlacing rivers which 
so closely approach each other that the canoe voyager can with ease pass from one great 
water system to the other, — can enter the continent at the Gulf of St. Lawrence and by 
narrow portages in central Wisconsin emerge into the south-flowing Mississippi. From 
Lake Michigan, the Fox-Wisconsin river system was the most popular highway to the great 
river ; into Lake Superior there flow numerous streams from whose sources led short port- 
age-trails over to the headwaters of feeders of the Mississippi. Thus the geographical 
character of Wisconsin became, very early in the history of New France, an important fac- 
tor. The Jesuit missions on Lake Superior and Lake Michigan soon played a prominent 
part in the history of American exploration ; and 2^ centuries ago, when the Puritan col- 
onies on Massachusetts Bay were yet in their infancy, and long before the intervening coun- 
try had been visited, the general features of the map of Wisconsin and the route thither 
were familiar to the rulers of Quebec. 

Wisconsin was notable, too, in those early days, as a hiding-place for tribes of Algon- 
quins, who had been driven beyond Lake Michigan, before the resistless onslaught of the 
Iroquois, who, however, often ventured into these forest fastnesses and massacred the 



THE STATE OF WISCONSIN. ggy 

crouching fugitives. The country was, for a century and a half, the happy hunting- 
ground for the easy-going French — licensed traders and coureiirs du bois as well — and in 
the French-and-Indian war was a favorite recruiting field for those disciplined bands of 
redskins who periodically broke forth upon the borders, filling the life of American pioneers 
with scenes of horror. It was Langlade, a Wisconsin leader of these savage allies, who 



caught Braddock in his slaugh- 
fellows bore away to the trans- 
of the scalps and spoils won 
When New France fell, in 
by George III. a part of the 
essentially French. The flag of 
the rude stockade at Green Bay, 
French and Indians, in all grades 
transferred their allegiance to 
half-bloods, throughout the 
the scarlet uniforms of His 




OSHKOSH : FIRST WARD SCHOOL. 



ter-pen, and whose swarthy 
Michigan woods a goodly share 
on that fateful day. 
1763, Wisconsin — now made 
Province of Quebec — remained 
England waved for a time over 
but the woods were filled with 
of blood relationship, who had 
the conqueror. French and 
War of the Revolution, wore 
Majesty's army. 



Although the Northwest was given to the United States in the treaty of 1783, the Eng- 
lish were practically in military possession of Wisconsin until the close of the war of 1 81 2-1 5. 
It was nominally in the Northwest Territory until 1800 ; then a part of Indiana Territory 
until 1809. Illinois Territory included Wisconsin until 1818, when Michigan Territory 
assumed control. When Wisconsin Territory came into being, in 1836, it included also Iowa, 
Minnesota and Dakota east of the Missouri and White-Earth Rivers. Parts of this domain 
were ceded to Iowa, in 1838, and to Minnesota in 1849. Early in the present century 
Congress excluded British traders ; and erected Fort Howard, opposite the French and Indian 
village of Green Bay, and Fort Crawford, at the fur-trading post of Prairie du Chien. 

Up to this time the French and half-bloods still held Wisconsin woods and streams, and 
the fur-trade was the chief industry. Little by little, this French predominance was under- 
mined, at first by the advent of Americans into the lead mines (1827), and then by agricul- 
tural settlers. The Black-Hawk war (1832), wherein the Sacs and Foxes were cowed, was 
an important factor in the opening of the region to public view. American settlement and 
development along American lines, now began in earnest. The fur-trade ceased to be of 
importance, the non-progressive French element subsided into insignificance, immigrants 
from the East were attracted by cheap lands on easy terms, and thenceforth Wisconsin was 



an American territory, 
powerful and patriotic 
in 1834; Sheboygan, in 
Milwaukee, Janesville and 
in 1837; Whitewater, in 
Stevens Point, in 1843 ! 
In modern days, the 
terruptedly in peaceful 
growing into a great and 
The late civil war drew 
of Wisconsin an army of 
defense of the Republic. 



which rapidly grew into a 
State. Racine was founded 
1834; Kenosha, in 1835; 
Oshkoshin 1836; Madison, 
1839; La Crosse, in 1840 ; 
and Applet on, in 1848. 
State has advanced unin- 
and profitable industries, 
powerful commonwealth, 
from the farms and cities 
over 90,000 men, for the 
Nearly one third of the population is of European birth, includ- 




nOmOWOC : PARISH CHURCH. 



ing 250,000 from Germany and Scandinavia, and 80,000 from the British Isles, with col- 
onies of Belgians and Swiss. Three fourths of the people are of foreign birth or parentage, 
including 600,000 of German extraction, and over 100,000 of Scandinavian origin. The 
German type will predominate here, making a fair and stalwart race. Although possessing 
this unusual preponderance of the European element, Wisconsin does not differ ethically 
.from her sister States of the Northwest, because the immigrants are in most ways thor- 
oughly Americanized, making good citizens, intelligent voters, and patriotic soldiers. 



SS8 



A^LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




WcST SUPERIOR ; DULUTH ELEVATOR CO. 



The Menomonee Indians, 1,442 strong, part 
Catholic and part Pagan, occupy a section of 
the great northern pine forest, and are an hon- 
est and peaceful people, without over-stringency 
of morals. There are four bands of Chippewa 
Indians, at Lac du Flambeau, Lac Court d'Or- 
eillcs, Bad River and Red Cliff, numbering 
2,628 persons. Wisconsin has also about 
1,400 Winnebagoes and Prairie Pottawatomies, 
nominally dwelling on homesteads of 40 acres 
per adult, in severalty, but practically roaming free. The Stockbridge Indians are the rem- 
nant of the ancient Housatonic tribe, who dwelt in the beautiful Berkshire Hills of Massa- 
chusetts, and were converted to Christianity by Jonathan Edwards and other Puritan divines. 
They fought bravely for America in the Revolution, and then, 400 strong, moved away to 
Oneida County (N. Y.). They were deported, 34 years later, to the pine-woods of Wis- 
consin. The Stockbridges still keep up their church, with two services weekly, reading 
over and over a volume of old sermons, in default of a pastor. The Oneidas, a remnant of 
the Six Nations of New York, number 2,000, on a reservation of 65,540 acres, near Green 
Bay. They have many good farms and buildings, and a stone church, paid for by their 
own money. Outside the reservation are many Stockbridges ^ 

(chiefly in Calumet County), who are citizens, and engaged for the 
most part in farming. 

The Name of Wisconsin is derived from its chief river. The 
Indians themselves are at a loss to explain it. Some call it a Chip- 
pewa phrase, Wees-kon-san, "the gathering of the waters;" others 
say that it means "westward flowing," from the French onest (yi&s'C), 
and the Algonquin ing, meaning at or by ; and the late Very Rev. 
Edward Jacker, a thorough Indian philologist, believed it to be from 
the Chippewa, Wishkosisihi, "Grass River," or "Prairie River." 

In early lead-mining days, the miners from Illinois and farther 
south returned home every winter, and came back to the diggings in the spring, thus imi- 
tating the migrations of the fish popularly called the "sucker," in the Rock, Illinois, and 
other south-flowing rivers of the region. For this reason, the south winterers were called 
"Suckers" and Illinois became "The Sucker State." On the other hand, miners from the 
Eastern States were unable to return home every winter, and at first lived in rude dug-outs, 
burrowing after the fashion of the badger {Taxidea Americana'). These men were the first 
permanent settlers in the mines north of the Illinois line, and Wisconsin thus became dubbed 
The Badger State. Contrary to general belief, the badger itself is not frequently found 
in Wisconsin. 

The Arms of Wisconsin bear a shield, on which is displayed 
the shield of the United-States arms, under a scroll bearing the 
motto E Plurilnis Umtm. In the quarterings are an anchor on 
the right, a mechanic's arm holding a hammer on the left, in the 
lower quartering a spade and pickaxe crossed, and a break- 
ing-plow above. The supporters are a sailor and a miner, with 
an open cornucopia and a pile of pig-lead below. The crest is a 
beaver standing on a roll. The motto is : Forward. 

The Governors of Wisconsin have been : Territorial : 

Henry Dodge, 1S36-41 ; James D. Doty, 1841-4; Nathaniel P. 

Tallmage, 1844-5; Henry Dodge, 1845-7. State: Nelson 

Dewey, 1847-52; Leonard J. Farwell, 1852-4; Wm. A. Bars- 

DEviL-8 UAKE. tow, 1854-6; Arthur McArthur, 1856; Coles Bashford, 1856-8; 




DALLES OF THE WISCONSIN. 




THE STATE OF WISCONSIN. 



Alex. W. Randall, 1858-62; Louis P. Harvey, 1862; Edward Salomon, 1862-4; James 
T. Lewis, 1864-6; Lucius Fairchild, 1866-72; C. C. Washburn, 1872-4; Wm. R. Taylor, 
1874-6; Harrison Ludington, 1876-8; Wm. E. Smith, 1S78-82 ; Jeremiah R. Rusk, 
1882-9; Wm. D. Hoard, 1889-91; and George W. Peck, 1891-3. 

Descriptive. — On the south, Wisconsin's pleasant prairies melt away into the rich 
levels of Illinois. Westward, the broad Mississippi, and its tributary, the St. Croix, sepa- 
rate the Badger State from Iowa and Minnesota. On the east, the broad inland sea of 
Lake Michigan flows for 200 miles along the Wisconsin coast ; and on the north, Lake Su- 
perior has a shore-line of 120 miles. The northeast is bounded by the rugged Upper Pen- 
insula of Michigan, and shares its abounding mineral wealth. The highest part of Wisconsin 
is along the Penokee and the rugged connected ranges, near the Montreal River, and 1,800 
feet above the sea. These picturesque wooded mountains swing around the sources of the 
Chippewa and Wisconsin, at a general height of about 1,000 feet, separating the Mississippi 
waters from those of the Lake-Superior streams. The ranges of the north come within 30 
miles of Lake Superior, whence the land falls away rapidly to the lake ; and a low water- 
shed runs south into Illinois, the streams on one side flowing to the Mississippi, and on the 
other to Lake Michigan. Four fifths of the State is drained into the Mississippi, which 
flows along the western border for 400 miles, a noble avenue of commerce. 

The southwestern counties have a series of singular isolated knobs, rising with fine 
effect above the level lowlands, and landmarks over leagues of prairie. Sinsinnewa Mound 
is 1,169 ^^^^ liigh j Platte Mound, 1,281; and the Blue Mounds, 1,729. The lower part of 
the State is an extension of the great rolling prairie of Illinois, beautified by many pleasant 
oak-openings and park-like bits of forest, and occupied by a prosperous farming population. 
Northward the woodlands encroach more and more on the prairies, until they cover the 
whole country with their profound shades, which are broken by the sparkling waters of thou- 
sands of bright lakes and ponds. Forests still cover nearly half of Wisconsin, whose exports of 
lumber are only excelled by Michigan and Pennsylvania. The pineries are a source of great 
wealth, because of the unceasing demand for lumber from the prairie States ; and $27,000,- 
000 worth of lumber, lath and shingles are made here yearly, by 30,000 men. The Wis- 
consin forests have developed an enormous value, and now produce 1,500,000,000 feet of 
lumber and over 1,000,000,000 lathes and shingles every year. 

Oneida County is famous for its pine and other timber lands, and besides this, it has been 
regarded as a possible field for mineral developments, bordering as it does on the State line 
between Wisconsin and Michigan, directly adjacent to the great mines of the Upper Penin- 
sula. Over 80,000 acres of land in this county are owned by the Land, Log & Lumber 
Company, a staunch Wisconsin corporation, operating with 
a paid-in capital of $2,140,000, under the presidency of 
David M. Benjamin, of Milwaukee, a resident of the north- 
west for 28 years, and now representative of Wisconsin on 
the World's Fair Commission. These 80,000 acres arc 
mainly white pine lands along the Wisconsin River, and on 
tributaries of the Wisconsin and Chippewa Rivers. They 
are as yet chiefly a part of the great timber wilderness, but 
at no distant day will become of immense value for their 
lumber. Already much lumbering is being carried on at 
various points, such as Wausau with 12,000 inhabitants, 
Merrill with 7,000, Tomahawk with 2,500, and Rhinelander 
2,500. At these places about 350,000,000 feet of lumber 
are made annually. There is besides the pine, a vast quantity 
of oak and birch used for finishing ; basswood used for 
furniture ; and poplar and spruce extensively used in paper 
making in Wisconsin and other States. Several railroads oneida county; land, log & lumber co. 




Sgo 



A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




DALLES OF THE WISCONSIN. 



either go through or close by parts of the lands 
owned by the Land, Log & Lumber Company — 
the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. -Paul, the "Soo," 
and the Milwaukee, Lake-Shore & Western. 
Outside of Oneida County the company owns 
S,ooo acres in Douglas County, and various other 
properties, aggregating 120,000 acres. 

The fine and imposing isolated hills of sand- 
stone scattered over a wide area north and north- 
west of the Dalles of the Wisconsin constitute 
another marked feature. These (like Pentwell 
Peak) are often very abrupt, with castellated summits and wild and 
'■ ' ' rugged slopes. They are for the most part isolated, and rise from 

low level land, and so are all the more striking. Beyond the sound of the woodmen's axes, 
bears, deer, elk, porcupines, wolves, lynxes, and many smaller animals are found in the 
vast and lonely northern forests. 

Wisconsin abounds in phases of charming scenery, like the deep-cut Rood's Glen and 
Witches' Gulch, near Kilbourn ; the rugged castellated crag of Pentwell Peak ; the falls of 
the Chippewa and the St. Croix ; the high-towered Fortification Rock, and the 
cliffs overhanging Lake Pepin. There are hundreds of deep-cut lakes, with high 
banks and romantic surroundings of field and forest. Many of them are set in 
bowls of rock, or glacial drift, over whose rims their crystal tides flow without 
ceasing. The largest of the lakes is Winnebago, 30 miles long and ten miles 
wide, whose scenery charmed and attracted the pioneers until its peaceful 
shores were lined with villages. Geneva Lake, the chief of the 25 lakes of 
Walworth, is pleasantly endowed with bold bluffs, high wooded 
banks and winding shores, and has for many years been a favorite 
summer-resort for Chicagoans. Devil's Lake, near "the serene 
vale of Kirkwood, " in Sauk County, is a deep emerald pool, half 
a league long, enwalled by rugged rocky and wooded bluffs, over 
400 feet high, and the remarkable quartzite rocks of Cleopatra's 
Needle, the Devil's Door-way, and other strange formations, stand- 
ing on imposing bluffs. Green Lake, six miles west of Ripon, 
15 by three miles in area, sparkles in a paradise of groves and 
prairies ; and Elkhart, Delavan, Lauderdale, Spring, Tomahawk, 
Oconomowoc, Okauchee, Nashotah, Pewaukee, and the Four Lakes of Madison, and other 
inland waters attract great numbers of visitors every summer. 

Located in the little village of Waukesha, 20 miles west of Milwaukee, near Lake Mich- 
igan, and within 100 miles of Chicago, is one of the most famous health-resorts in the world. 
The time is past when it is necessary for invalids to go to the European spas, for right in 

the United States are baths and springs with medicinal 
properties equal if not superior to any in Europe. Li 
Waukesha are ten springs, but only one of great power. 
That one, which is the famous "Bethesda, " was the 
pioneer, and stands to-day without a rival. This was 
discovered in 1868 by Col. Richard Dunbar, and since 
that time its popularity has been steadily growing. Not 
only in this country is Bethesda water in extensive use, 
but in Europe, where, in the face of the opposition of 
famous European waters, it has been in use at so con- 
servative an institution as Guy's Hospital of London. 
cENEVA LAKE, In conucction with the spring are the Bethesda Baths, 







MILWAUKEE ". 
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 




THE STATE OF WISCONSIN. 



891' 




which are open from June to October. The water 
is shipped to all parts of the world by the Bethesda 
Mineral-Spring Company, but is never sold or 
shipped in any other way than in the regular Beth- 
esda half-gallon bottle, with the Bethesda labels 
and signatures. The plant of this company covers 
20 acres, much of it being taken up by the lovely 
park where the spring is located. Besides the park, 
the company have a two-story bottling-house, where 
about 20 men are employed the whole year around. 
The company was the first to put up natural water 
in light-green apoUinaris-shaped half-gallon bot- 
tles, and adheres absolutely to the Bethesda bottle 
to avoid fraud. Natural Bethesda is a cure for 
diabetes and Bright's disease ; while the efferves- 
cent Bethesda is a perfect table-water, no doubt 
ever being raised as to its purity. Owing to its 
mineral qualities, it creates gastric juice, and is an 
aid to proper digestion. The company also manu- 
factures a brand of ginger ale, which is considered waukesha: bethesda mineral spring. 
exceptionally fine, using Bethesda water as a basis. The spring is in a pavilion in the centre 
of the park, and only about 300 feet from the bath-house. It is reached by a descending 
asphalt walk, and is enclosed by an iron railing. The spring bubbles up from the bottom of a 

marble basin of octagon shape, and backed by heavy 
cut-stone masonry ; the water flows continuously, 
never varying and never freezing. 

Near the world-famous Bethesda spring is the 
exceptionally favorite Fountain- Spring House, of 
Waukesha. This hotel, like the Bethesda spring, 
to which it owes its location, is of rare excellence. 
It isbuiltentirelyof stone and brick. The first house 
was burned in 1878. In 1879 the present hotel was 
built, at a cost of about $1,250,000. It covers 
about three acres of ground, and has a quarter of 
a mile of veranda. In the dining-rooms, of which there are three, 800 people may be 
served. The largest of these dining-rooms will seat 500. The hotel is surrounded by 155 
acres of private grounds, laid out in the form of a park. There is attached to the hotel the 
largest bathing establishment in the Northwest. There are two pools of mineral water, 
clear as crystal, and warmed to a comfortable temperature by steam pipes. Each pool meas- 
ures 50 by 80 feet. One of them is for gentlemen, and the other for ladies and children. The 
Fountain-Spring House, by reason of the beneficial local springs, the charming surroundings, 
the substantial character of the buildings, and the pleasant drives, has become one of the most 
satisfactory resorts in the country and secures its great patronage from an unusually select 
clientage. This is one of the largest, most modern 
and most successful summer-resort hotels in Amer- 
ica. It is open from June 15th to September 15th. 

The Ton-ya-wath-a Springs, near Madison ; 
Vita Springs, at Beaver Dam ; Palmyra Springs, 
and other summer-resorts of similar character are 
well patronized, particularly by the people of the 
Southern States. On La Madelaine, one of the 
Apostle Islands, in Chequamegon Bay, Lake waukesha : fountain-spring house. 




AL SPRING. 




892 KLVG'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Superior, still remains the half-deserted Chippewa hamlet of La Pointe, the great metropolis 
of the Lake-Superior country in the days of the Indians and fur-traders and Canadian voy- 
ageurs, early in the present century. The old Catholic church there was built by Father 



Barega, about 60 
miles of woodlands 
Lake Superior flow 




MILWAUKEE ; COUNTY COURT HOUSE. 



years ago. The Apostle Islands cover 200 square 
and wave-worn clififs, about which the waters of 
in bright blue labyrinths. 

The Mississippi River caresses the Wisconsin 
shores for 400 miles, amid scenes of unusual 
beauty ; its clear and limpid waters flowing 
around hundreds of oak-crowned islands, and 
along the fronts of heavily wooded hills and 
castellated safidstone walls, overlooked by 
nature's rugged towers and splintered spires of 
white limestone. Here and there smiling prairies 
break the succession of dark ridges and ravines; 
or bright streams come rippling out from the 
woodlands ; or white villages gleam along the 
tranquil shores. Mountain Island shoots up to 
a height of 560 feet above the quiet waters, and bore among the French voyageurs the name 
oi Le- Mont q2n trempe a P Eait {"■The Mountain which dips in the water"). This name 
still lingers in the pretty village of Trempealeau, five miles south. Farther up, the river 
broadens into Lake Pepin, 25 miles long, and in places five miles wide, and bordered by 
picturesque bluffs 800 feet high. The Mississippi receives from Wisconsin the St. -Croix, 
Chippewa, Buffalo, Trempealeau, Black 
and Wisconsin Rivers, besides many 
smaller streams. The Wisconsin, from 
its source in the remote Vieux-Desert 
Lake to the Mississippi, is 600 miles 
long, and cuts the State in halves. It 
is navigable for 200 miles, to Portage 
City. Near Kilbourn City, the Wiscon- 
sin flows for more than two leagues 
through the Dalles, between sheer walls of friable sandstone, cut mto curious forms by 
the action of the water. Thousands of tourists visit this region every season. The 
Chippewa is 300 miles long; the powerful St. -Croix, 200; and the Black, 200. The 
Fox River has a length of 250 miles, and at Portage City is joined to the Wisconsin 
by a Government canal half a league long, following the portage traversed by many 
generations of Indians, fur-traders, Jesuit priests and French, English and American 
soldiers, on their way by canoe between the Mississippi and Lake Michigan. 

In its 40 -mile course between Lake Winnebago and Cxreen Bay, the Fox River produces 
a great water-power, which is availed of l>y the factories of Menasha, Neenah, Appleton, 

Kaukauna and Depere. The Menomonee and 
Oconto, each 130 miles long, flow into Green 
Bay, a fine estuary running 100 miles southwest 
from Lake Michigan, towards Lake Winnebago, 
and named from its color, due to its 80 fathoms 
of depth. The Sheboygan, Milwaukee, Manito- 
woc and Kewaunee flow into Lake Michigan, 
with improved harbors at their mouths. The 
Montreal, Bois-Brule, St. Louis and other streams 
descend swiftly to Lake Superior, falling 600 to 
800 feet over many a cascade and cataract. The 




MADISON UNIVERSTY OF W SCONS N 




LAKE PEPIN ON THE 
MISblSSIPPI RIVER 








MILWAUKEE 

SCENES IN THE 

PARKS 



WASHINGTON 



n/E STATE OF WISCONSIN. 

Bois Brule is one of the most famous of the man) A\ isconsm trouting 
streams, and is visited by many sportsmen eveiy summer 

The whitefish and trout of the Great Lakes form an important 
article of commerce ; and pike and pickerel, bass and muskallonge, 
perch and sturgeon, and brook-trout abound in the clear Wisconsin 

waters. The State Fish Commission is contm- ^^^^^ . 

ually active in keeping up this valuable supply of 
food-fish, and has a completely appointed mam 
hatchery at Nine Springs, four miles from Madi 
son, as well as a large whitefish hatchery at Mil 
waukee. 

The Climate is subject to high extremes 
with warm summers, averaging 60° in the north 
and 70° in the south, and long, dry an-d cold 
winters, ranging from 25° to 15°. The neighbor- 
hood of the Great Lakes warms the air in winter 
and cools it in summer. Snow often remains on 
the ground all winter, and the lakes and rivers are 
generally frozen from December until March. The 
autumnal seasons are mild and pleasant, but the 
springs are backward. The rainfall is 31 inches in the south, and 35 on the northern coast. 
The Farm-Products of Wisconsin reach $105,000,000 a year, and happily include a 
great diversity of crops, so that the failure of any one can be endured without distress. 
Among the yearly products are oats, 50,000,000 bushels; corn, 30,000,000; wheat, 
J 13,000,000; barley, 12,000,000; potatoes, 12,000,000; apples, 1,700,000; 
A 2,300,000 tons of hay; and 30,000,000 pounds of tobacco for cigar 
™ wrappers. Barley and rye also form articles of a large commerce ; and 
-• '— "-~- " 'IS ■ the product of fruit is considerable, including choice 

! C; apples and cranberries. In the growth of hops, Wis- 

consin once stood among the foremost. In 1867-8 the 
famous hop-fever swept over the State, and immense 
areas of land were planted with hops, only to be 
ploughed up a year or two later, when the price had 
fallen from 55 cents a pound to ten cents. The fer- 
tile and easily tilled limestone prairies of the southwest 
are remarkably fruitful, and contain thousands of pros- 
perous farms. .The north and east is overlaid with rich sandy and clayey loams ; while much 
of central Wisconsin has a poor and sandy soil. The principal market for flax is Kenosha ; 
and for tobacco, Edgerton, Stoughton and Madison. Wild rice grows about the lakes, and 
the Indians find it valuable for food. The Menomonees 
get their name "wild-rice eaters" from this fact. The live- 
stock of Wisconsin is valued at $80,000,000, and numbers 
1,200,000 cattle, 400,000 horses, 900,000 sheep and 800,000 
swine. The yearly product of the dairies is .$12,000,000, 
and includes 36,000,000 pounds of butter and 33,000,000' 
pounds of cheese. This business centres at Sheboygan. 

Minerals. — Wisconsin is one of the foremost iron 
States, and sends from her northern highlands 800,000 tons 
yearly of specular and magnetic ores. These are the 
famous ores of the Lake-Superior region, and occur here in 
abundant deposits of the richest quality, mainly in the 
Penokee Range, and the northeastern counties. Red 




MILWAUKEE : WATER TOWER. 








MILWAUKEE; ST. -PAUL'S CHURCH. 




ASHLAND : ASHLAND IRON & STEEL COMPANY. 



894 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

hematite is mined in large quantities at Iron Ridge, 
in Dodge County, and brown hematite in Sauk 
County. 

The Hinkle Charcoal Furnace, owned and oper- 
ated by the Ashland Iron and Steel Company, is 
located on Chequamegon Bay, Lake Superior, at 
Ashland. This city is the shipping port of the 
great Gogebic iron range, whose immense deposits 
of rich hematite Bessemer ore were not fully known 
until the year 1885. The proximity to this inexhaustible supply of ore, as well as the im- 
mense forests of hardwood timber near by, suggested the location of the Hinkle Furnace at 
Ashland. It was completed and blown in April 4, 1888. The stack is 60 feet high, and 
twelve feet bosh. Up to this time, no single charcoal stack had ever exceeded 85 tons out- 
put in 24 hours. The "Hinkle" has eclipsed all previous records, having repeatedly run 
150 tons a day, the highest weekly output being 1,009 tons. The company owns valuable 
real estate in Ashland, a growing and prosperous city, and hardwood timber-land within a few 
miles. It manufactures its own charcoal. The kilns, nearly 100 in number, are located on the 
W. C. and M., L. S. & W. railroads. About 500 men are employed. Their specialties are 
malleable, foundry, and car-wheel iron ; and special grades are manufactured, which are par- 
ticularly adapted to various foundry purposes. The company has made an important de- 
parture in establishing a laboratory at their works. All their raw products are carefully ana- 
lyzed before going into the furnace, and every cast of pig iron is likewise analyzed, so that they 
are enabled to furnish analysis for every car of pig iron 
shipped. The chief owners and officers of the company 
are : A. H. Hinkle, president, Cincinnati, O. ; 
W. H. Hinkle, secretary and treasurer, Minne- 
apolis, Minn. ; and Morris R. Hunt, manager. 




MILWAUKEE ; EXPOSITION BUILDING. 



Southwestern Wisconsin is rich in de- 
posits of sulphide and carbonate of zinc and 
sulphide of lead, in the Galena-Dubuque 
region. The Indians and French used to 
got lead here; and in 1821 the Americans 
opened operations, which were continued for 
a quarter of a century, until the output 
reached 25,000 tons a year. Stratified beds of clay, deposited by Lake Michigan when 
larger than now, are found all along its shore, and over 50,000,000 brick are made 
from them yearly. Although the clay is usually red, the bricks come, out cream-col- 
ored, and Milwaukee is built of this material (of which she is also the chief maker), and 
called, therefrom, "The Cream City." Upwards of 500,000 barrels of quicklime are made 
in Wisconsin yearly, at Pewaukee, Racine, Watertown, and other places. Other valua- 
ble products are the quartz-porphyries of the central counties, red sandstone of Bayfield and 
Ashland, granite of Marquette County, mahogany-colored pipe-stone (catlinite) of Barron, 

fine limestone of Waukesha and Prairie du 
Chien, cement-rock of Milwaukee, and cream- 
colored limestone of Westport and Madison. 
Government. — The executive officers are 
elected every two years. The legislature has 
33 senators, and 100 assemblymen, and meets 
biennially, in the odd-numbered years. The 
Supreme Court has five justices; and there 
are 14 district courts, besides those of the 
MILWAUKEE; LAYTON ART GALLERY. countlcs and municipalities. The State Capitol, 




THE STATE OF WISCONSIN. 



895 




MILWAUKEE : NATIONAL SOLDIERS' HOME. 



of pearly-white Prairie-du-Chien stone, occupies the 
summit of a beautiful knoll in a park of 14 acres, at 
Madison, overlooking the country of the Four Lakes. 
In the Capitol, besides the usual State departments, 
are the State Law Library, under the direction of 
the Supreme Court ; and the rooms of the State 
Historical Society. The greater part of the south 
transverse wing of the building is occupied by this 
latter institution, two floors being devoted to its 
magnificent library of 150,000 volumes (mostly 
Americana), and another — partitioned into three spacious halls — to its splendid museum of 
historic, pre-historic and scientific curiosities, and its art-gallery, in which are displayed oil 
portraits of 150 distinguished Wisconsin pioneers and Indian chiefs. About 40,000 persons 
visit the museum and art-gallery annually, while the library attracts scholars and specialists 
from all parts of the West and South. The institution ranks third among American his- 
torical societies, and is the most important west of the AUeghanies ; in some respects it is 
recognized by experts as the most vigorous of them all. Its collection of Americana is only 
excelled by that of Harvard College and the New- York State library, while in material re- 
lating to the Mississippi basin it takes the palm. The society is the chartered trustee of 
the State, and is largely maintained by it. Reuben G. Thwaites is the secretary. 

The militia of Wisconsin numbers 2,254 soldiers, in 35 companies. The State Veterans' 

Home is at Waupaca. The State Prison, 
at Waupun, is a group of castellated 
stone buildings, forming a large quad- 
rangle, outside of which extends a high 
wall, with towers and guards. The In- 
dustrial School for Boys, at Waukesha, 
has 425 inmates. The Industrial School 
for Girls and Young Boys, at Milwau- 
kee, has 180 inmates. The Institution 
for the Education of the Blind, at Janes- 
ville, has 85 pupils ; the Institution for 
the Deaf and Dumb, at Delavan, 200 ; the immense and costly State Hospitals for the Insane, 
near Madison and Oshkosh, 1,200; and the State Public School, at Sparta, 200 children, 
on an estate of 165 acres. Near Milwaukee, on a beautiful forest-clad domain of 440 acres, 
stand the imposing buildings of the Northwestern Branch of the National Home for Disabled 
Volunteer Soldiers, with chapel, library, reading-room, theatre and conservatories. Nearly 
1,400 veterans are quartered here, and furnished with every comfort. 

The coasts of Wisconsin are lighted at night by 36 Government light-houses : 22 on Lake 
Michigan, nine on Green Bay, and five on the Apostle Islands, in Lake Superior. The 
local steam-fleet numbers nearly 200 vessels. 

Education is richly provided for by the Federal and State land-grants, which have 
already brought in a fund of $3,000,000, although vast areas remain unsold. The school 
above $3,800,000 a year, r 



expenses rise 
Every child between seven and twelve must 
attend school for twelve weeks yearly. The 
State Normal Schools at Platteville, White- 
water, Oshkosh, River Falls and Milwaukee 
have 1,400 students. The University of 
Wisconsin has a beautiful situation in a great 
park on University Hill, on the shore of 
Lake Mendota, northwest of the Capitol, at 




RACINE : RACINE COLLEGE. 




896 



AVNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MILWAUKEE. 



:^' 



Madison. It is supported by a State tax 
of one eighth mill on the dollar, and has 
an income exceeding $100,000. The 
University numbers 54 persons in its fac- 
ulty, and 800 students, including 70 in the 
classical course, 90 in science, 1 10 in en- 
gineering, 100 in law and 35 in pharmacy. 
The Washburn Observatory, built in 
1S78-80, at a cost of $50,000, and given 
to the University, with a full equipment, 
by Gov. C. C. Washburn, has published many volumes of its transactions. Connected with 
the University is the State Experimental Station, one of the best in the country. 

Beloit College, "the Yale of the West," was founded in the year 1847 by the Congrega- 
tional and Presbyterian ministers of the surrounding counties, for the thorough liberal 
Christian education of young men. It has a pleasant campus of 24 acres, on a plateau 
dotted with oak-openings and Indian mounds, and sloping down to Rock River ; and eight 
buildings, including the handsome stone Memorial Hall, containing the library of 14,000 
volumes, and commemorating on its tablets those who perished out of the 400 Beloit 
students who enlisted in the civil war. Beloit has been notable for the great number of 
clergymen among its graduates. It has 20 instructors and lOO students K^iks ip ] 1 
atory academy of great merit, with 250 pupils. In 1S89 Beloit's 
endowment and property were increased by nearly $250,000, 
by a series of noble efforts on the part of its graduates and 
friends. Racine College is a creation of the Episcopal Church 
in Wisconsin, and has a spacious quadrangle of handsome 
Gothic buildings on a bluff over Lake Michigan. It was opened 
in 1852; and from 1859 to 1879 came under the care of the 
Rev. Dr. James DeKoven, who gave it the character of the 
great English public schools, with careful moral, spiritual and 
intellectual training. In 1890 the collegiate department was abandoned for lack of support. 
There remain, however, 1 15 students in the preparatory school. Lawrence University was 
founded in 1847, by the bounty of Amos A. Lawrence, of Boston, in the rugged wilderness 
where the city of Appleton now stands. It belongs to the Methodists, and has 70 students. 
Ripon College began its labors in 1853, and owns three stone halls, in a pleasant campus of 
twelve acres. It is a Congregational and co-educational school. Milton College dates from 
1867, and pertains to the Seventh-Day Baptists. Galesville University is a small Presby- 
terian school. Northwestern University, at Watertown, is Lutheran. Carroll College, at 
Waukesha, was chartered in 1852. Nashotah House was founded by the Episcopal Church 
in 1841, on a tract of 450 acres along the beautiful Nashotah Lakes, as a mission-house in 
Bishop Kemper's vast diocese. It has since been a theological training-school for hundreds 
of missionaries, and is very dear and precious to the Church in the Northwest. Shelton 
Hall and the Chapel are handsome buildings of white stone, and Bishop White Hall is the 

home of the students. The Lutheran 
Theological Seminary is at Milwau- 
kee ; the Reformed-Church Mission 
House, at Franklin ; the Seminary of 
St. Francis de Sales, at St. Francis. 
The Wisconsin Sunday-School As- 
sembly owns a park of 30 acres on 
Monona Lake, and has a tabernacle, 
pavilions and similar structures, 
where several thousand persons 




APOSTLE ISLANDS : 

NATURAL ARCHES. 




BELOIT : BELOIT COLLEGE. 



THE STATE OF WI SCON SIX. 897 

spend ten days each summer, attending lectures and classes. It is a branch of the great 
Chautauqua enterprise. The La-Crosse Public Library, with over 10,000 well-chosen vol- 
umes, occupies a handsome building, whose cherry-red brick makes a contrast with the 
surrounding green lawns. This institution received $50,000 from the late Gov. C. C. 
Washburn. The libraries of Nashotah, Beloit, Lawrence University, and St. -Francis Sem- 
inary con- ^ - ■. 
tain more 
than 10,000 
volumes 
each, while 
the State 
U n iversi ty 
library has 
18,000 vol- 
umes. The 




MADISON, THE CAPITAL OF WISCONSIN. 



Milwaukee Public Library is one of the best managed in the United States. There are 
excellent city libraries, also, at Madison, Green Bay, Beaver Dam, Ashland, Tomahawk, 
Superior, Berlin, Appleton and other cities. 

Nev^spapers, — The first Wisconsin newspaper was the Green-Bay Intelligence)', in 1833, 
eleven years after the first Wisconsin post-office was established, at the same place. There 
are now upwards of 500 newspapers in the State, 40 dailies, 440 weeklies and 40 monthlies. 
In the German language there are 94, five Scandinavian, and others in Polish, Bohemian, 
Danish, Norwegian and Hollandish. Of this great array of periodicals, religion, education, 
agriculture and labor have ten each, and temperance has 17, while others are devoted to 
secret societies, music, charity, sporting, mining, and philately. In Milwaukee, the oldest 
paper is the Wisconsin, the lineal successor of the third paper established in the Territory. 
The oldest daily in Milwaukee is the Seiitinel, established in 1844; but it was very closely 
followed in 1847 by the Evening Wisconsin, a paper that has ably and honorably earned 
the esteem of its great constituency throughout the Northwest. The initial number of the 
daily Wisconsin m 1847 was William E. Cramer's entry into the State's journalism; and 
ever since, now 44 years, he has been constantly at its head. Since 1854 his partner has 
been A. J. Aikens — an uninterrupted partnership of 37 consecutive years. John F. Cramer, 
the junior partner, has been in the firm over 25 years. Their 
primitive sheet of territorial days has developed into one of 
.-■■^'>^ ^^ff^ i '^he strong, prosperous and influential newspapers of the whole 

Union, and the hand-press circulation of their little daily and 
weekly (of less than 3,000 a week) into a combined circulation 
of over 125,000 a week. The crude printing-office, too, has 
become one of the largest and best equipped in the Northwest. 
In the wonderful growth of this section the Wisconsiji has been 
\l^ a powerful aid, fearlessly supporting that which it believed to 







"i>-"'""?i'^53ff5!*^ 



be right and best. It has never sold a line of its editorials. 
Its columns have been kept pure and wholesome. Mr. Aikens is 
said to be the practical originator of the "patent-inside" papers; 
for it was he who first introduced advertising into the sides 
containing the general news, and thus made it possible to 
bring the price of the printed sheets into the needs of the 

country publishers. The Wisconsin is published by Cramer, Aikens & Cramer, who also 

are extensive periodical, book and commercial printers. The Wisconsin building is one of 

the fine structures of Milwaukee. 

Churches. — There are accommodations in Wisconsin for over 500,000 persons, the 

Methodists and Catholics each having about one quarter of the sittings, and the Congrega- 



MILWAUKEE: EVENING WISCONSIN. 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THK UNITED STATES. 




tionalists, Baptists and Lutherans each one tenth. The Episcopalians divide the State into 
the dioceses of Milwaukee and Fond du Lac, with a handsome little cathedral at the latter 
place, and the noble Norman Church of St. Paul at Milwaukee. 

Chief Cities. — Milwau- 
kee, with its noble public 
buildings and busy factories, 
is one of the greatest cities 
of the Northwest, on a site 
diversified by graceful hills, 
far-reaching suburbs melt- 
ing into rural gardens and 
prairie farms, and a gener- 

ASHLAND, ON CHEQUAMEGON BAY. ^^g profusioU of domCS and 

spires. The Government has formed a spacious outer harbor, by building breakwaters, and 
the Milwaukee River admits the largest vessels to the heart of the city and the doors of the 
warehouses. Steamships have been dispatched from this port to England, without break- 
ing bulk. The immense flour-mills and grain-elevators (with a capacity of 6,000,000 bushels) 
furnish lading for large commercial fleets. Fully half the population is of German origin, 
which may partly account for the high local development of art and music, and for the 
enormous breweries. Hence also comes the singular diversity of the local architecture, 
and the frequency of signs in a foreign language. Milwaukee has risen from a village of 
2,000 inhabitants in 1840 to be one of the foremost grain-ports of the world, with large 
manufacturing interests also. 

One of the finest hotels in the Northwest is the Plankinton House, at Milwaukee, which 
is favorably kijown to all travelers in this country and in Europe. The Plankinton House 
in name has been running about 20 years, but the 
present building is by no means of that age. Additions 
were made to the first building from time to time, and 
the hotel as it now stands represents a cost of over 
$1,000,000. Its street frontage is 830 feet, or about 
one seventh of a mile. The house now has 600 rooms, 
and occupies more than half a block, according to the 
Western rule, that there are five blocks to a mile. 
The building is five stories high, and of sandstone. 
The furnishing of the hotel is on a very elaborate plan. 
In the 15 best front rooms there are mahogany chamber sets. The dining-room and parlors 
are however its crowning glory. The furniture is solid rose-wood, covered with expensive silk 
tapestry. Around the walls of the dining-rooms are nine of the largest mirrors to be found 
in the West. The square ones are nine by twelve feet. The office is handsomely furnished. 
The mantel here is twelve feet wide and 16 feet high. The pilasters of this mantel repre- 
sent America, Europe, Asia and Africa. The house was owned by the late John Plankin- 
ton, one of the wealthiest men of the Northwest. It was fortunate for the city of Milwaukee 
to have had so good 1 a hotel as the Plankinton has been for so many years, for the 

visitor who sees |*^ this beautiful city goes away well pleased with all the many 
sights, and abund- ijljra antly satisfied with his hotel accommodations. 

Madison, the capital of Wisconsin, has a situa- 
tion of unusual beauty,' on the narrow and hilly strip 
between Lakes Mendota (nine by six miles) and 
Monona (five by two miles), clear and crystalline 
sheets, fed by vast springs and bordered by white 
__ gravelly shores. In the vicinity are the Lakes 

MILWAUKEE; c. , M. i ST. PAUL R. R. DEPOT. Waubcsa, Kcgonsa and Wingra, somewhat smaller 




MILWAUKEE : THE PLANKINTON HOUSE. 




THE STATE OF WISCONSIN'. 899 

than the others. The Capitol, University, and other public buildings are placed on com- 
manding hills, and overlook this lovely lake-country for leagues. Pure springs, beautiful 
drives, exciting bass-fishing, boating of all kinds, and Chautauqua assemblies attract many 
summer- visitors and permanent residents with wealth and leisure to this charming little city, 
with its libraries, churches and other metropolitan luxuries. Longfellow depicted this 

locality, and its ^ . , , , r ,11 n- n 

"Pair lakes, serene and full bi light. 

Fair town arrayed in robes cf white." 

La Crosse occupies a pleasant site on the Mississippi, whose majestic flood here sweeps 
around several green islands; and its saw-mills and factories employ 8,000 persons. On 
this site the Indians used to play their favorite game of la crosse. Eau Claire and Chippewa 
Falls are also well-known for their lumber. Racine has a good harbor, with large ship- 
ments of grain and produce, and stands on a plateau projecting into Lake Michigan, at the 
mouth of Root River. Kenosha's harbor is made by piers projecting into the lake, and 
receives a lucrative commerce. Janesville, Beloit and Watertown are the chief cities along 
Rock River. Sheboygan and Manitowoc are lake-ports farther north. Another group of 
cities, in the east, includes Fond du Lac, nestling among the hills around Lake Winnebago, 
amid rich prairies, and with a great lumber-trade ; Oshkosh, a busy citj of saw-mills and 
factories, on the same bright lake ; Menasha, in the pleasant scenery at the foot of Winne- 
bago ; and Neenah and Appleton, with their paper-mills and valuable water-powers. 

Pi'airie du Chien received its name from an Indian chief, The Dog (^Chieii), whose tribe 
formerly dwelt there. It was captured by Col. McKay's British and Indian expedition, 
in 1814, and held for nearly a year. The city occupies a pleasant prairie on the Missis- 
sippi shore, just above the inflowing of the Wisconsin. Ashland and Bayfield are twin 
Lake-Superior ports on Chequamegon Bay, a landlocked harbor 30 miles in area, with deep 
water and clear channels, and large docks for the shipment of lumber and ores. This 
locality, near the beautiful Apostle Islands, has become known as a summer-resort. West 
Superior had about 400 inhabitants in 1885, and in three years following grew twentyfold, 
with immense coal-docks, elevators, iron-pipe and steel works, the distributing docks and 



tanks of the Standard Oil Company for 
in the world (with a capacity of 1,000, 
ways converge upon a deep 
end of Lake Superior. 

The First Railway 
gun in 1850 by the Mil- 
line, which laid down ten 
Milwaukee and Elm Grove. 
ville in 1852. The State 
5,000 miles of tracks, built 




CHICAGO i 



MILWAUKEE : 
NORTHWESTERN 



the Northwest, and the largest coal-dock 
000 tons). At this point seven rail- 
harbor, at the extreme 

in Wisconsin was be- 
waukee and Mississippi 
miles of track between 
This line reached Janes- 
now has more than 
at a cost of $210,000,- 
000, and showing net yearly earnings of above $8,000,000. The Chicago, Milwaukee & 
St. -Paul lines cover the southern part of Wisconsin with a network of 1,300 miles of rails, 
beginning at Chicago, and touching Beloit, Madison, Milwaukee, Portage City, Prairie du 
Chien, Oshkosh and many other localities, and crossing far west into the Dakotas. The Mil- 
waukee & Northern runs north to Green Bay and the iron country of Michigan. The Chicago 
& Northwestern has 950 miles in Wisconsin, leading from Chicago to Fort Howard and Mil- 
waukee, Fond du Lac, Kenosha, Rockford, Winona, Janesville and La Crosse. The Chicago, 
St. -Paul, Minneapolis & Omaha owns and leases nearly 600 miles, reaching from Chicago to 
Beloit, Milwaukee, Madison, Bayfield, Ashland, Superior, Eau Claire and St. Paul. This 
line was started in 1868, from Warren's Mills to Black-River Falls. The Chicago, Burling- 
ton & Northern follows up the Mississippi Valley for 224 miles, by La Crosse, Winona and 
Lake Pepin. The Wisconsin Central controls 450 miles of track in Wisconsin. It begins at 
Chicago and reaches Milwaukee and Oshkosh, and then runs northwest to Bessemer, Ashland 



900 



IsTING'S I/AA'DBOOK OF /'//A' [W/TED STAGES. 




MILWAUKEE WIScON'. 1 
i FIRE INSURANCE COMPANY BANK. 



and Superior, on Lake Sujierior. The Milwaukee, Lake-Shore & Western has over 600 
miles of track, running north from Milwaukee to Ashland. The Minneapolis, St. -Paul & 
Sault-Ste. -Marie line cuts straight across the northern wilderness from the St. -Croix Valley 

to the Menomonee, with 267 miles of track. 

The Finances of Wisconsin are in a peculiarly for- 
tunate condition. The State debt, largely incurred on 
account of the civil war, has all been paid, and there is a 
surplus of over |!3, 000,000 in the treasury. The oldest 
bank in the West, and largest bank in Wisconsin, is the 
Wisconsin Marine & Fire Insurance Company Bank of 
Milwaukee, established in 1839, over 50 years ago. The 
capital stock is $500,000, being all that the Constitution 
of the State of Wisconsin allows, but by law all its stock- 
holders, representing millions of dollars, are individually 
and collectively liable for all obligations of the bank. At 
the time their report was made to the State treasurer, July 
7, 1890, it showed they had out $4,620,159 in loans 
and discounts; bonds and stocks of $775,527; specie to 
the amount of $43,951; clearing-house checks, $49,752; currency, $259,695; due from 
banks, $1,002, 749 ; and these with $9,252 in over drafts made the total amount of the 
bank's resources $6,761,086. This bank was popularly known for nearly half a century as 
"Alexander Mitchell's bank," the railroad magnate and financier of his time being the 
head of this institution. His son, John L. Mitchell, succeeded him as president, while two 
of his old associates, David Ferguson and John Johnston, remain active respectively as vice- 
president and cashier, the one having been 51 years and the other 35 years in the institu- 
tion. The bank is in the Mitchell Building, alongside the Milwaukee Chamber of Commerce. 
When this bank was founded Milwaukee had a population of 1,500, and Wisconsin had 
30,000. A semi-weekly stage afforded the only public communication between Milwaukee 
and the Mississippi Valley, where now 40 railway trains daily fly across the State. 

Manufactures in W^isconsin are more than 10,000 in number, with a yearly product 
of over $150,000,000. As the drift of emigration pressed westward, the hemlock forests of 
the Northwest attracted tanneries to this sectioiT of the country. Theabundance of hides and 
bark were here at hand, and Western enterprise soon took advantage of these favorable 
circumstances. Milwaukee, on account of its favorable natural situation, soon became the 
western manufacturing center for leather. Small tanneries rapidly developed into large in- 
stitutions. The earliest of these tanneries was started by the late Guido Pfister and Fred- 
erick Vogel, Sr. Beginning in a modest way, the labor of these men has developed into 
the largest upper-leather tannery, not only in this section but in the whole country. The 
partnership of Pfister & Vogel was changed in 1872 into a stock company, known as the 
Pfister & Vogel Leather Company, with a capital stock of $200,000, which was subse- 
quently increased to $400,000, and a surplus of $700,000. In addition to their upper- 
leather tanneries, they are now operating large 
sole-leather and sheepskin tanneries, the four 
tanneries covering about 16 acres of ground, and 
the total investment being over $2,000,000. 
The total production during the past year was 
450,000 sides of upper and soleleather, and 350,- 
000 sheep, goat, calf and kipskins. To tan this 
amount 18,000 cords of hemlock bark were used. 
The company manufactures a greater variety of 
leather than any other firm in the world, making specialties of the following : Union and 
hemlock sole, harness, line and strap leather, colored and russet skirtings, collar leathers, 




PFISTER i VOGEL LEATHER CO. 



THE STATE OE WISCONSiy. 



90 T 




satin finish grain, English grain, oil and boot grain, wax, calfskin and union upper, flesh, 
grain and flexible splits, glove-leather of all kinds in deer, goat and sheepskin, colored 
leathers, dull and glazed dongola kid, cordovan golashes, and horsehide. They have an 
agency at Chicago and Boston. Half of their product is disposed of by the Boston office, 
in the greatest leather market of the world. 

Milwaukee possesses the Pabst brewery, unsurpassed by any in the world. The nucleus of 
this immense establishment was the old Empire Brewery, started by Jacob Best in 1842. He 
was assisted by his four sons, and for the first few years all the work was done by these four 
men. In i860, however, his son Phillip took the management. Hitherto the output had 
been for local consumption, and amounted to only about 3,000 barrels a year. In 1863 the 

-- output had risen to 3,667 barrels a 
year, and when Mr. Best admitted 
Capt. Fred Pabst, his son-in-law, the 
annual product was 4,895 barrels. 
In 1865 Mr. Best retired, but the 
business was continued under the 
style of Phillip Best & Co. By this 
time the beer had become known, 
^AUKEE PAL^T BREWING COMPANY ^^^ the output was upwards of II,- 

000 barrels a year. In March, 1873, the company was incorporated, under the style of the 
Phillip Best Brewing Company, with a capital of $300,000. The next year this was in- 
creased to $2,000,000. All this time the company was increasing its output, and of necessity 
increasing the plant. In 1886 the output was 440,443 barrels. In March, 1889, the cor- 
porate name of the Phillip Best Brewing Company was changed to that of the Pabst Brew- 
ing Company, and the capital was increased to $4,000,000. The annual output amounted 
then to 585,300 barrels. The bottling house of this company is the only one in the country 
where the beer is drawn through underground pipes, thus preventing the escape of carbonic 
acid. The present capacity is 1,000,000 barrels a year. The actual sales for the year 1890 
amounted to 700,233 barrels. The plant occupies a floor-space of 34^ acres. The great 
ice-machines produce an equivalent to 146,000 tons of ice annually. The hands employed 
number 1,000 ; and the annual pay-roll amounts to $400,000. The company was awarded the 
gold medal at the Paris Exposition in 1878. The fame of the Pabst brewery is world-wide. 

If the old-time farmers, who stood before 
the old open cylinder and watched the slow 
tread of a horse power, could see the present 
methods of threshing by steam-power, and caring 
for the grain, they would deny the existence of 
scientific principles in the old methods. Steam 

seems to have taken the precedence in farming, ^ ^ _ j 

as well as in all other branches of industry. raoue j i case xHREiHiNG machi.ne co. 

The J. I. Case Threshing Machine Company of Racine have been manufacturing threshing 
machines since 1842 ; and, starting with a small tread-power separator, they have gradually 
increased their machines to steam-power outfits of 3,000 bushels a day capacity. Their 
immense establishment is capable of turning out twelve complete separators, two engines, 
15 horse-powers and four saw-mills a day, besides the enormous and nearly unlimited stock 
of repairs and attachments which is the yearly demand from this mammoth factory. The 
present company succeeded the firm of J. I. Case & Co., in 18S0, and was incorporated in 
that year, with a capital of $1,000,000 and a surplus much larger. The shops and ware- 
houses cover 40 aires and employ 1,000 men, with a yearly pay-roll of $600,000. There 
are 10,000 tons of iron, 5,000,000 feet of lumber and $75,000 worth of belting consumed 
in the annual business of the company. Their goods received the medals at Philadelphia 
in 1876, at Paris, 1887, and of all the States in the country. They have about 900 




q02 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MILWAUKEE : FULLER WARREN COMPANY. 




-^i-'^'^--^^^^<f^^:,^ 



W^s*^" 



agencies ; and are thelargest makers of threshing ma- 
chines in the world. It is worth noting that Mr. Case 
(who died in December, 1891,) was one of the noted 
patrons of the turf, and the horse bearing his initials, 
Jay Eye See, has the fastest gelding trotting record. 
At Milwaukee are the extensive stove-works of 
the Fuller Warren Company, erected in 1891 with 
all the advantages of modern improvements, so that 
it is regarded as a model establishment in this in- 
dustry. The plant comprises a notable group of brick 
structures, the main front, 500 feet long, being four stories high, while the foundries are 
exceptional for length, height, light and arrangement. The products include the long list of 
world-renowned stoves, furnaces and ranges made by the Fuller & Warren Company of Troy 
(N.Y.), the two corporations being closely allied and under practically the same management. 
The Duluth Elevator Company's series of three elevators, forming the largest system 
of connected elevators in the world, are at West Superior. They have a capacity of 
5,000,000 bushels, and are closely affiliated with 
the Peavey system of grain-elevators, noticed in 
the Minnesota chapter. They are among the 
largest, best equipped and most complete in the 
world. There are three buildings, connected 
by fire-proof galleries, and provided with fire- 
hydrants and automatic sprinklers, incandescent 
electric lights, and solid timber decks. There 
are track facilities for 2,000 cars, and unloading 
facilities for 40 cars an hour. The highest build- 
ing is 141 feet in altitude. 

The development of the forlorn little backwoods hamlet of Superior into a great com- 
mercial port began in 1854, under the direction of a land company, which included among 
its members Senator R. J. Walker, of Mississippi, Senator R. M. T. Hunter, of Virginia, 
Senator S. A. Douglas, of Illinois, and other prominent men. But the panic of 1857 and 
the war of 1 86 1-5 shattered the hopes of the village, which remained in a condition of sus- 
pended animation until about 1885, since which the locality has gone forward rapidly, with 
large manufacturing enterprises, railway terminals, elevators and steamship lines. Over 1,200 
vessels arrive at and depart from the port yearly, with vast freights of coal, grain and flour. 
At this point the Wisconsin and Minnesota line runs along St. -Louis Bay, with Duluth on 
the north side and Superior on the south. Here is the extreme western end of navigation 
on the great inland seas of America, where the railways from the grain-lands meet the 
steamships from the co.al ports. Ignatius Donnelly prophesies that a century hence these 
cities will have 10,000,000 inhabitants. 

" The 7'i3y«^«^^'-f were a wonderful body of men. Mostly French-Indians (half-breeds), 
swarthy, sunburnt, hardy and daring, they were the heroes of the paddle, and for long years 
their jocular songs were heard and their fleets of canoes were seen along the rugged shores 
of the great lake. They were great singers, and sang songs to the music of the paddle. At 
a later date, they annually performed the almost incredible feat of crossing and re-crossing 
the continent in birch-bark canoes in a single season. They would start in a canoe from 
the Pacific Ocean, in April, and threading rivers and lakes, shooting rapids and portaging 
over mountains, without halt in fair weather or foul, sleeping but four hours in the 24, 
would reach Fort William, on Lake Superior, by the 1st of July, with the regularity of a 
steamboat, and returning across the continent with equal precision, arrive at Fort George, 
at the mouth of the Columbia River, by the 20th of October. They were indeed a strangely 
interesting race, jocular, and full of song and stories of wild adventure." 



WAUKESHA. 



EQaALIT? 
STATE ' 





"i^J"^^"^ 



SSSBS 



HI5T0RY. 

Part of Wyoming, west of 
the Rocky Mountains, was 
included in the Oregon 
Country, and belonged to 
Oregon, Utah, Washington 
and Idaho. The lower Green- 
River country, about Fort 
Bridger, pertained to Mex- 
ico, and became American 
soil after the Treaty of 1848. 

Most of Wyoming was included in the Province of Louisiana, 

purchased from France in 1803, and belonged to the District 

of Louisiana after 1804, the Territory of Louisiana after 

1805, the Territory of Missouri after 1 8 1 2, the Indian 

Country after 1834, Nebraska after 1854, Dakota after 

1 86 1, Idaho after 1863, and Dakota again after 1864. The 

Territory of Wyoming was formed from parts of Dakota, 

Idaho and Utah, in 1868, and it therefore ranks as one of 

the youngest of the American commonwealths. 

The first white visitors were the Canadian explorers 

under Sieur de la Verendrye, who, in 1 743-4, ascended the 

gorges of Wind River. A pair of Illinois trappers, and 

Colter, one of Lewis and Clark's men, spent parts of 1804-7 

in the Park region, followed by the heroic hunters of the 

Missouri Fur Company, who were obliged to fight the 

Indians throughout all these lonely glens. The first 

American to explore central Wyoming was the gallant 

Virginian, Gen. Wm. H. Ashley, who in 1824 led 300 

men through the Sweetwater country and the South Pass. 

Eight years later, Capt. Bonneville, U. S. A., and iio 

trappers traversed the South Pass, and erected a fortified 

camp on Green River. Fort Laramie was built in 1834, 

by Sublette, and rebuilt two years later by the American 

Fur Company, who sold it to the Government in 1849. In 

1842 the famous trapper, James Bridger, erected the log block-house of Fort Bridger, 

near Green River ; but in 1853 it passed into the hands of the Mormons, who were un- 
willing to suffer a Gentile strongliold so near their domains. The first migration to the 



STATISTICS. 

Settled at ... . Fort Laramie. 

Settled in 1834 

Founded by ... . Fur-traders. 
Admitted to the U. S 
Populalion in 1&70, 

In 1880, .... 
White, . . . 
Colored, . . . 
American-born, 
Foreign-born, . 
Males, .... 
Females, . . . 

In 1890 (U. S. Census), 
Voting Population, 

State Debt 

Assessable Property, . 
Area (square miles), . 
U.-S. Representatives, 
Militia (disciplined), 

Counties, 

Post-offices, .... 
Railroads (miles), . . 
Manufactures (yearly), 

Operatives, . . . 

Yearly Wages, . . 
Farm Land (in acres), 

Farm-Land Values, 

Farm Products (yearly^ 
Public Schools, Average 

Daily Attendance, 
Newspapers, . . 

Latitude, 41 

Longitude, 
Temperature, 



9,118 

20, 789 

19.437 

1,352 

14,939 

5,850 

14,152 

6,637 

60,705 

10,180 

$320,000 

1,500,000 

97,890 

1 

243 

13 

240 

901 

$898,49.1 

391 

$187,798 

124.433 

$835,895 

$372,391 



3.750 

35 

to 45° N. 

104" to 111° W. 

54" to loi" 



Mean Temperature (Fort 

Bridger), 4'" 

TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POPU- 
LATIONS. (Census of 1890 ) 

Cheyenne, ii,6go 

Laramie, 6,388 

Rock Springs, 3,4o6 

Rawlins, 2,235 

Evanston, 1,995 

New Castle 1,715 

Carbon, I1I40 

BuSFalo 1,087 

Green-River City, .... 723 

Casper, 544 



904 



A'/NC'S IIANDBOOh' OF T/TE UNITED STA 'PES. 




THE THREE TETONS. 



Pacific passed across Wyoming in 1834 ; and thereafter 
increasing companies of immigrants traversed the region, 
their heavy Pennsylvania wagons rolling through the 
South Pass, and on to the Pacific coast. Strange groups 
followed these perilous trails — Father De Smet and 
his Jesuit brethren ; the New-England mis-sionaries, 
bound for Oregon ; Fremont and his men, the first troops 
to enter Wyoming ; the regiment of mounted riflemen, 
riding to the Columbia Valley ; division after division 
of Mormon enthusiasts, on their way to Deseret ; Gen. 
Johnston's Army of Utah, in 1857 ; the California and 
Nevada Union volunteers, guarding the mails and emigrant-trains back and forth, from 1862 
to 1866 ; and thousands of Argonauts, gold-hunters and other brave adventurers, facing the 
perils of the wilderness and its savage clans. The first agricultural settlers were several 
score of Mormons, sent by their church to occupy the Green-River Valley, in 1853. 

The Indians waged almost continuous warfare against the immigrants, and killed them 
by hundreds, and even attacked the forts, and burned Julesburg. The Phil-Kearney 
massacre occurred in 1866, when Red Cloud marshalled his Indian warriors to prevent the 
Government from building a road from the Platte to the Yellowstone. Col. Fetterman 
made a sortie from the beleaguered Fort Phil Kearney, and his entire command was anni- 
hilated by the savages. The III soldiers slain on that dread day'have been buried at the 
National Cemetery on Custer's battlefield. 

When the Territory came into existence it possessed but 3,000 white inhabitants, most 
of whom had followed the construction of the Union Pacific Railroad. As late as 1875 
the greater part of the domain belonged to the Sioux, Crows, Arrapahoes, and Shoshones, 
who waged an intermittent war against the 
miners and settlers, and were finally chastised 
into submission by Gen. Crook, in 1876-7. 
The Sioux were removed to Dakota, the Crows 
to Montana, the Utes to Colorado, and the 
1,100 vShoshones and 900 Arrapahoes to a 
reservation on the Wind River, where they 
still remain. 

The Name of Wyoming comes from an 
Indian word, Maitghxvainvame, meaning Broad 
Plains, and was first applied to a famous valley 
in Pennsylvania. The Commonwealth has been called The Equality State, because ever 
since its organization men and women have been accorded equal rights to vote, and the 
people have ratified the same principle in the State Constitution. This was the first com- 
munity in the world to inaugurate woman suffrage, and twenty years of trial have shown 
that the best class of women vote, without detriment to themselves, and with increasing 
benefit to the State. They give their ballots to the best and truest men, regardless of 
politics, and for this reason both parties are compelled to nominate worthy candidates. 

The Governors of Wyoming have been : John A. Campbell, 1869-75 ; John M. 
Thayer, 1875-8; John W. Hoyt, 1878-82; Wm. Hale, 1882-5; Francis E. "Warren, 
1885-6; Thos. Moonlight, 1886-9; Francis E. Warren, 1889-90 ; and Amos W. Barber 
(acting), 189I. 

The Arms of Wyoming bear a Norman shield, with a railway train rushing through 
the sunlit mountains, below which, in the lower quarterings of the shield, are a plough, 
pick, shovel and shepherd's crook on one side, and on the other a mailed hand holding a 
drawn sword. The motto is, Cedant arm a iogjs., meaning, "Let arms yield to the 
gown," or, "Let military authority give way to the civil power." 




GREEN RIVER 



THE STATE OF IVYOAHNG. 905 

Geography. — Wyoming is as large as all New England and Indiana combined. Its 
elevation varies from 3,400 to 14,000 feet, with an average of 6,000. The bordering com- 
monwealths are South Dakota, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Idaho, and Montana. A large 
part of its area is occupied by the mighty mass of the Rocky Mountains, whose snowy 
peaks rise high above evergreen forests, and are cut by the rocky canons of many rivers. 
Among these broken ridges are spacious bare plateaus, dotted here and there with grouped 
or isolated buttes, flat-topped and with precipitous sides, and strangely suggesting the 
architecture of Titans. 3,300 square miles are more than 10,000 feet above the sea. The 
Continental Divide, or culmination of the Rocky Mountains, the northern prolongation of 
the Colorado Park Range, enters Wyoming south of Rawlins. Farther eastward the granite- 
crested Front Range of Colorado runs north into Wyoming, breaking into the Laramie and 
Medicine-Bow Ranges, which are separated by the Laramie Valley. Laramie Peak reaches 
11,000 feet, and Elk Mountain, in the Medicine-Bow group, reaches 11,511 feet. The foot- 
hills and spurs of the tremendous Uintah Range crowd along the border west of the Sierra 
Madre, and similar offshoots of the Wahsatch Range fill the western frontier. 

About fifty miles north of tiie Colorado line, the Sierra Madre and the Medicine-Bow 
Range subside into a belt of flat table-land 150 miles long, from which the Missouri 
waters flow on one side and those of the Colorado on the other. This section of the Con- 
tinental Divide is only 1,400 feet above the general level of Wyoming, and has received the 
names of the Great Divide Basin and the Red Desert. Many of the streams on this broad 
upland run into sinks and are lost, or disappear in alkali flats. Rawlins stands on the 
water-shed ; and 100 miles west the Continental Divide again becomes sharply defined, in 
the range running northward from Steamboat Mountain to the South Pass. It is prolonged 
to the northwest by the Wind-River Mountains, with their austere snowy summits, culmi- 
nating in P'remont's Peak, 13,576 feet high. Here the country is all on edge, where the 
Wind-River Range meets the lava plateau of Absaroka. The remarkable Teton Range is 
crowned by Mt. Hayden (the Grand Teton), 13,691 feet high, and Mt. Moran. The Semi- 
noe, Sweetwater, and other ranges rise from the plateau between the Laramie and Wind- 
River Mountains. Here the tremendous line of the Big-Horn Mountains begins, near the 
centre of Wyoming, and runs northward into Montana, reaching heights of from 8,000 to 
12,000 feet, and covering 7,500 square miles. A rolling plateau crosses the Powder-River 
country eastward to the Black Hills, whose dark and heavily wooded heights culminate in 
the peak of Inyan Kara, 6,700 feet above the sea. The Laramie Plains, sheltered by the 
Laramie and Medicine-Bow Ranges, cover 2,000,000 acres, at a height of 7,000 feet above 
the sea. There are areas of irrigable land in the valleys of the Big Horn, Tongue, Powder 
and Green rivers. The Big-Horn country has for many years been famous for its game, 
and attracts many parties of American and foreign sportsmen. It covers an immense area, 
between the Big-Horn and Wind-River Ranges, with the Owl-Creek Mountains on the 
south. As lately as 1866 this region contained enormous herds of buffalo, and since then 
it has been used for ranging live-stock. The Wind-River Valley, eight miles wide and 150 
miles long, has a rich dark soil and a pleasant ' ._. -::r^.- . 

climate, with clear and rapid streams flowing 
through its midst. East of the Big-Horn and 
Laramie Mountains the Great Plains open 
away into South Dakota and Nebraska, wa- 
tered by the North Platte, Cheyenne, Niobrara 
and Powder rivers. The Green-River Basin, 
southwest of the Wind-River Mountains, is ^[^ 
drained into the Colorado of the West ; and 
part of southwestern Wyoming sends its waters ^ 
to the (ireat Salt Lake, through Bear River. 
From the northwest the Yellowstone, Madison hippopotamus rock. 




9o6 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




and Gallatin rivers flow to the upper Missouri ; and the Snake River to the Pacific Ocean. 
None of these streams is navigable in Wyoming. The chief lakes are in or near the Yellow- 
stone National Park. The State Fish Hatchery has distributed millions of white-fish and 
brook and lake-trout in the streams of Wyoming, stocking many barren waters with valu- 
able food-fish. 

Wyoming abounds in natural curiosities — lines of wind-blown sandhills, wonderful 
fossils, deep canons, waterfalls, geysers and alkaline lakes. The Cheyenne Cave, near 
Islay, honeycombs the plateau of Table Mountain with scores of subterranean chambers, 

brilliant with their panoply of stalactites and crystals. The 
area of forest in Wyoming covers not far from 10,000,000 
acres, mainly on the high mountains, and including large 
yellow and white pines, white spruces and red cedars. 

Only one-sixth of Wyoming's soil can be cultivated, and 
this portion is a sandy loam, which, when irrigated, pro- 
^ . , ^^ duces cereals, vegetables and fruits. Districts at the lower 
^j^i altitudes are tilled without irrigation, while the regions 

i^-'^ffitifK-y. dependent on artificial watering draw from the copious 
'»:::...?^.:„.j_ "^W-J^^^ "' ' springs and snows of the higher mountains. Wyom- 

SHERMAN : THE AMES MONUMENT. .^^ .^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ commouwealth in the extent of its 

canals, which aggregate above 5,000 miles in length, watering 2,000,000 acres. These irri- 
gation works have cost $10,000,000. Grazing is the foremost industry of Wyoming, whose 
cattle and sheep find capital nutriment in the bunch-grass of the Laramie Plains, the Big- 
Horn Basin, the Sweetwater and Wind-River valleys and along Green River, and also in 
the sage-brush of the desert. The live-stock business began here in 1870, and at one time 
2,000,000 cattle were grazing on these plains. In 1885 this industry represented three- 
quarters of Wyoming's wealth ; now it is less than half of it. The herds are smaller and 
more numerous than before, and greater care is taken to shelter and feed them in winter. 
The number of cattle exceeds 1,500,000. The State has 1,000,000 sheep grazing all the 
year out on the plains. During severe storms it is necessary to feed them for a few days. 
Horse-raising is growing rapidly, and the State has 150,000 head, including many thorough- 
breds. The live-stock interests represent investments of $100,000,000. 

The Climate is cool and bracing in summer, and quite severe during winter months, in 
the higher altitudes. The dry atmosphere, however, very much lessens the severity of the 
cold. Very little rain falls, the average yearly fall at Fort Laramie be- ; ing 14^ inches; 
and at Fort Bridger 8^. The summer winds 

are southerly; those of winter come from '^^^ ?v 

the north and northwest. In common with 
other neighboring States, Wyoming is sub- 
ject to occasional winter blizzards, when the v- 
thermometer falls rapidly to far below zero, 
and snowy and sleety winds sweep across the 
prairies with irresistible fury. On the Great 
plains the atmosphere is dry, rare and clear, 
with but little rain and great extremes of temperature- 
is bracing and healthful. 

Mining employs several thousand men in Wyoming, although the larger part of the 
State remains undeveloped. The gold placers of the Sweetwater were discovered in 1867, 
and for several years produced rich results. The recent developments in quartz-mining in 
this locality are very encouraging. $5,000,000 in bullion has been taken from Fremont 
County alone. Emile Granier's French syndicate has expended over $100,000 preparatory 
to commencing hydraulic operations on the placers near Atlantic City, in Fremont 
County. Other mines of gold and silver have been discovered from time to time in almost 




CHEYENNE : UNION STATION. 

The influence on the human system 



THE STATE OF WYOMING. 



907 



every county in the State, but the product now is small. The coal mines at Almy, Evans- 
ton, Rock Springs, Dana, and various points along the Union Pacific, dispose of most of 
their product to the railroad. It is a lignite, containing 50 per cent, of carbon, and oc- 
curs in all parts of the Territory. The Wyoming coal mined yearly exceeds 2,000,000 
tons, valued at $5,000,000. The coal region covers 30,000 square miles. Some of the 
deposits contain an excess of water or of sulphur, and though valuable for steam purposes 
in manufacturing, is not adapted for domestic uses. Valuable deposits of coking coal have 
recently been developed at Newcastle, Wyoming, and has been pronounced by experts 
equal to the best found in Pennsylvania. Petroleum has been developed over a belt 300 
miles long, but the wells are plugged, awaiting the coming of better transportation facili- 
ties. The chief wells, in the Shoshone Basin, near Lander, and on the Belle-F"ourche, 
yield a heavy black oil, which accumulates in ponds, wherein wild ducks and other birds 
are caught like flies on sticky paper. Iron Mountain, 52 miles north* of Cheyenne, is a 
mass of red hematite ore seven miles long. The red-oxide mineral-paint of Rawlins has 
been largely used by the Union Pacific, and its superior quality caused it to be recom- 
mended and used in New- York City, on the East-River Bridge and the elevated railroads. 
Vein tin and stream tin are found in the Wyoming Black Hills, and copper and iron 
mines are in operation in the Platte Canon, at Hartville, and elsewhere. On the Laramie 
Plains and in other localities occur several soda lakes, with deposits of sodium sulphate of 
from ten to 40 feet thick. These products are manufactured into merchantable soda at 
chemical works in Laramie. The saline 
springs, 30 miles south of Sundance on 
Salt Creek, have produced large quan- 
tities of salt. Among the other mineral 
treasures are gypsum and mica, marble 
and granite, graphite and cinnabar, lime- 
stone and magnesium, kaolin and fire- 
clay, glass-sand and asbestos. Gray and 
white sandstone is quarried at Rawlins 
and Laramie, and red and pink sandstone 
at Glen Rock and Laramie. Saratoga, on 
the North Platte, has a group of hot sul- 
phur springs, allaying rheumatism and 
kindred diseases, and a large hotel invites patronage. The mineral spring at Leroy has been 
a remedy for dyspepsia, and the soda springs of Piedmont possess medicinal virtue. 

Government, — Wyoming became a State in 1890. The Capitol, at Cheyenne, contains 
60 apartments, in a handsome new sandstone building, with a Corinthian portico and a high 
dome. The State Library numbers 1 5, 000 volumes. The Wyoming National Guard has well- 
disciplined companies at Laramie and Cheyenne. The Institution for the Deaf, Dumb and 
Blind is at Cheyenne. The Insane Asylum, at Evanston, has a commodious brick and 
stone building. The Penitentiary is a substantial structure of stone and iron at Rawlins. 
The United- States Penitentiary at Laramie has about twenty inmates. It has recently been 
enlarged and will now comfortably accommodate 150 convicts. The prison, on admission 
of Wyoming, was made a gift to the State, and will probably become the permanent 
Penitentiary, when the institution at Rawlins will be converted into a reform school. 

Fort D. A. Russell, three miles northwest of Cheyenne, is the chief garrison in the 
Department of the Platte, with long lines of brick barracks and a garrison of ten compa- 
nies of infantry. Fort McKinney, two miles from Buffalo, at the base of the Big-Horn 
Mountains, is a four-company post. Fort Washakie, fifteen miles from Lander, on Wind 
River, commands the Shoshone Agency. There are garrisons at Camp Pilot Butte, near 
Rock Springs, and Camp Sheridan, in the National Park. Forts Bridger, Laramie, Halleck, 
Phil Kearney, Stambaugh, Fettertnan and Sanders have been abandoned. 




OALE-CREEK BRIDGE. 



9o8 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Education is compulsory, and there is very little illiteracy. $1,000,000 have been 
spent on the erection of schools. The University of Wyoming, opened at Laramie in 1887, 
occupies a handsome and spacious stone building, heated by steam and lighted by electricity. 
It has a large land-grant from the General Government ; and tuition is gratuitous. There 
are Catholic academies at Cheyenne and Laramie City and on the Shoshone Reservation. 

Religion is represented by many prosperous societies. The Catholic Diocese of Wyom- 
ing has its cathedral city at Cheyenne ; and Wyoming and Idaho form an Episcopal diocese, 
whose bishop lives at Laramie City. , 

The first newspapers were the Evening Leader, Daily Argus and Rocky- Mountain Star, 
all published in Cheyenne in 1867, and followed by the Swcetzvater Mitter, founded at 
■Fort Bridger in 1868. There are now four daily newspapers in Cheyenne and Laramie City, 
and 22 weekly papers (including two agricultural) at Buffalo, Cheyenne, Douglas, Evanston, 
Glenrock, Lander, Laramie City, Lusk, Rawlins, Rock Springs, Sheridan and Sundance. 

Chief Cities. — Cheyenne, the capital of Wyoming, is 6,075 ^^^^ above the sea, at the 
foot of the Rocky Mountains, twelve miles from Colorado and 40 miles from Nebraska, and 
gathers into her arms four railways, with large car-shops and handsome stations. . In 1867 
the first rude village rose on this site, where now stands an ambitious modern city, with 
costly water-works and sewerage systems, electric lights and telephones, street-cars and fac- 
tories. It is the supply point for a broad stock-raising country and the headquarters of 
wealthy cattle companies. Cheyenne is 1,918 miles from New-York, 1,348 from San Fran- 
cisco and 1,432 from Galveston. 

Laramie City has the finest situation of any Wyoming settlement, and is a supply point 
for widely scattered ranches and mines, with large machine-shops, rolling-mills, glass-works 
and other industries, telephones, electric lights, water-works, capital schools and prospering 
churches. Laramie is named after a French trapper, killed by the Arapahoes on the stream 
which bears his name. 

Rawlins, 7,000 feet above the sea, has large machine-shops, costly public buildings and 
a wide-reaching country trade. Rock Springs is famous for its great coal-mines. Evanston, 
an ambitious city on Bear River, thrives by the same industry. 

The Railroads of Wyoming are the Union Pacific, crossing the southern part for 489 
miles, from Nebraska to Utah ; the Cheyenne & Northern, from Cheyenne, 125 miles north, 
to Douglas (near Fort Fetterman) ; the Oregon Short Line, from Granger to Idaho (and 
Oregon) ; the Denver Pacific and the Cheyenne & Burlington, running south and southeast 
from Cheyenne ; and the Laramie, North-Park & Pacific, southwest from Laramie City. 

The Wyoming Central line runs 130 miles westward from Nebraska through an agri- 
cultural and mining country, to-Casper, in a region of oil-wells, soda-lakes and grazing 
plains. This is a section of the Chicago & Northwestern system ; and is to be extended to 
Ogden, Utah. The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy line has just built a route 200 miles 
long, from Alliance (Neb.) into the coking-coal region of the Black Hills, near New Castle, 
large areas of which are owned by the Burlington. 

Among the lines under construction are the Union Pacific & Western Colorado, from 
Fort Steele, southeast, into Colorado ; the Wyoming & Midland, from Lander north down 
the Big-Horn Valley to the Northern Pacific ; and the Wyoming Southern, from Casper to 
Buffalo and Sheridan and into Montana. 

The Union Pacific Railroad traverses the southern part of Wyoming for 454 miles, and 
the chief cities of Wyoming and the developed wealth of the State are located along this line 
of railroad. The line crosses the Laramie range at Sherman, 8,269 feet above the sea, and 
beyond Fort Fred Steele it runs along the desert table-lands whence the Green River flows 
down to the Colorado, and the Bear River to the Great Salt Lake. At Sherman the Union 
Pacific Company has erected a granite pyramid 65 feet high, to the memory of Oakes Ames 
and Oliver Ames, of Massachusetts, to whose labors the completion of the railroad was 
so largely due. 



THE ST A TE OE WYOMING. 



909 




^fUSt,^, Aj^^tfti 



o/d^vM02OO/f/i/i^^ I Sf66on /^ 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, IN WYOMING. 



pio 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




The Yellowstone National Park covers a rectangle of 3,575 square miles, nearly 
all in northwestern Wyoming. It is a lofty and billowy plateau, 8,000 feet above the sea, 
nearly as large as Connecticut, covered with dense forests of Douglas spruce and yellow 
pine, and broken by isolated groups of mountains. The whole region is overlaid with lava 
and dotted with geysers and hot springs, depositing iron, silica, lime and sulphur, and 
bursting forth on nearly every square mile, in the woods and along the peaks, and even boil- 
ing up in the lakes. These are the largest geysers in the world, exceeding those of Iceland 
or New Zealand ; and their variety of action, character and power is wonderfully interesting. 

There are more geysers and hot springs in this reserva- 
tion than in any other region of thermal activity, and yet 
they are but the diminishing remnant of the fiercer vol- 
canic energies of past ages. 

The Park is too high and too cold for successful farm- 
ing, and its volcanic character forbids profit in mining. 
The domain has therefore been reserved as a museum of 
YELLOWSTONE LAKE. miueralogical curiosities, with variegated obsidian cliffs, 

sulphur and alum and soda springs, pitchstone plateaus, the brilliantly colored basins of 
dead geysers, hills of sulphur, vivid cliffs of glassy rock, paint-pots and crater hills. This 
diversity of scenes gives an interest to the Park different from that of other resorts, for the 
amazed visitor passes from one unique object to another, for days, observing the rarest curi- 
osities of Nature, and surrounded at times by a barbaric pageant of color, with roaring 
rivers, sunlit lakes, profound forests and lines of snowy peaks. Along the slopes of Ame- 
thyst Mountain hundreds of petrified trees stand like columns of ruined temples, many of 
them of great size and in good preservation. A prostrate trunk is found 60 feet long and 
six feet thick, completely opalized or agatized, and filled with beautiful crystals. 

The huge and serrated snowy ranges which traverse the reservation include a long and 
singularly curving extent of the Continental Divide, sheltering lovely valleys and parks, 
sylvan streams and quiet lakes, and cut deeply by profound canons. Intricate and almost 
impassable ranges of mountains hinder approach from the Wyoming settlements, and the 
only easy routes of entrance are from Montana and Idaho. Mt. Washburne, a fragment of 
an extinct volcano, reaching a height of 10,346 feet, is ascended by a bridle-path, and com- 
mands a good view over the long ranges of peaks in every direction and across the shining 
levels of Yellowstone Lake. The Gallatin Range enwalls the Park on the northwest, cul- 
minating in Electric Peak, 11,100 feet high; and the eastern wall of the Park is the mag- 
nificent Absaroka Ridge, reaching a height of 11,000 feet, and 
practically impassable. In the south the Red Mountains cul- 
minate in Mount Sheridan, 10,385 feet high, viewing an area of 
70,000 square miles, including 470 mountains of the first class, 
and wide areas of Montana, Idaho and Utah. The outlooks •; 
from the highlands are of unusual extent and grandeur on .\ 
account of the purity and clearness of the mountain air. 

The Park has 6,000 hot springs and rents, generally at 165° 
to 170°, the chief groups being the Mammoth and other lime 
springs, on Gardiner River, and the siliceous springs on Upper 
Firehole River, between 30 and 40 miles south. They are , 
practically volcanoes of water, and vary from quief hot pools of 
perfect transparency to jets of 200 feet high, shot up by the force 
of steam gathering in the cavities below ground, and roaring .t 
like entrapped thunderstorms. These huge fountains give forth 
clouds of steam and vapor, accompanied by awful rumblings 
and explosions, recalling the time when the whole Yellowstone 
basin was a vast crater containing a thousand lesser volcanic Yellowstone park .- palace butte. 




y:(. 



THE STATE OF WYOMING. 



911 



vents and fissures. As Professor Hayden says, the banks are "literally honeycombed with 
springs, pools and geysers that are constantly gurgling, spitting, steaming, roaring and 
exploding." 

The Mammoth Hot Springs break out on Terrace Mountain, the chief one being 25 by 
40 feet in area ; and descend the hill-slope from a height of 1,000 feet, over an area of 2^ 
square miles of snow-white calcareous deposits, like a series of frozen cascades. As they 
near the level of Gardiner River they flow from the top of a travertine hill 200 feet high, 
falling outward through a series of richly tinted scolloped basins, and cooling as they 
descend. The waters are of a turquoise-blue tint and marvellously transparent, and nourish 
a delicate and highly colored vegetation. The spectacle-shaped valley of the Firehole 
River, 36 miles distant, contains thousands of hot springs and vents, pouring out clouds of 
steam, and fifty active geysers, some intermittent, and others perpetually emitting columns 
of water, sometimes as high as 250 feet. Every hour "Old Faithful" throws a boiling jet 
160 feet into the air, and the Castle Geyser once every 48 hours ejects from its castellated 
mount of deposits a huge column of water 100 feet high. The Grand Geyser sends up a 
massive jet of hot water 25 feet thick at the base and 200 feet high, breaking at the top 



into cascades of jewel-like 
above. The Fan, Giant, Gi- 
geysers are not less amaz- 
group of geysers in the world 
running along the Firehole 
less than a mile wide. It 
and hundreds of others, and 
Geyser Basin, farther down 
boiling springs and six inter- 
the Geyser Basin opens the 
taining 500 springs of highly 
from the fine canon and falls 
ther north is Norris Basin, 
Monarch and the Hurricane, 
ber of mud springs, varying 
to craters of seething mud 
and iron coloring them beau- 
group of mud springs, as 
near the Yellowstone, above 




GREAT FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 



spray, with great vapor clouds 
antess, Bee-hive and other 
ing. The most wonderful 
is the Upper Geyser Basin, 
River for several miles and 
includes 414 boiling springs 
26 great geysers. The Lower 
the Firehole, contains 693 
esting geysers. Northeast of 
Gibbon Paint-pot Basin, con- 
colored boiling mud, not far 
on the Gibbon River. Far- 
with its vigorous geysers, the 
There are also a great num- 
from bowls of turbid water 
100 feet across, with sulphur 
tiful yellows and pinks. A 
thick as paint, breaks out 
the falls, with a geyser which 



formerly shot boiling mud forty feet high. Near the Sulphur Hills clusters of boiling sulphur 
springs ceaselessly pour forth floods of ill-savored medicinal waters. The Heart-Lake 
geysers are celebrated for their brilliant deposits ; and Shoshone Lake also has its group of 
hot roaring fountains. This region abounds in rain, which gives it several fine rivers and 
beautiful mountain-bordered lakes. Here are the sources of the great Missouri and 
Columbia rivers, whose waters seek the sea on opposite sides of the continent. Green 
River, the head of the Colorado of the West, rises in the Wind-River Mountains, a few 
miles south of the Park. The Yellowstone begins its course in the Absaroka Range and 
flows through Yellowstone Lake and then out to the northward, gently enough for ten miles, 
widening around pretty islands, and then rushing and whitening down to a cliff 140 feet 
high, over which it falls in a magnificent snowy curve, reaching the rocks below fifteen feet 
outside of the base of the precipice. The Great Falls of the Yellowstone are a quarter of a 
mile below, where the fretted stream takes a leap of 308 feet, a huge mass of sea-green 
water, fringed and flecked with spray and foam, and thundering into a dark pool enwalled 
by cliffs 900 feet high. The Grand Canon of the Yellowstone begins below the falls, and 
is a score of miles long, and from 600 to 1,200 feet deep, cut in the volcanic plateau, with 
ragged enwalling cliffs of vivid red and brown, yellow and white, brilliant as the colors in 



912 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 




MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. 



a paint-box, and flecked by the vapors of hot springs and the cascades of entering brooks. 
These lines of rocks are lifted up into singular shapes, as of castle towers and cathedral 
arches, pinnacles and spires, minarets and domes, and other mimicries of human archi- 
tecture ; and below the drapery of dark-green pine forests, at their bases, the silvery river 
winds swiftly away toward the open country. 

The stories told by the old Yellowstone trappers about this region were received with 
disbelief, until 1S63, when Capt. De Lacy explored the Lower Geyser Basin. In 1869 two 
Montana prospectors visited the geysers ; and in 1870 a more thorough reconnaissance 
was made by Surveyor-General Washburne of Montana. After 
Dr. Hayden's scientific explorations had more fully revealed its 
wonders, Congress reserved the domain from settlement, in 
1872. In subsequent years army officers and geological expedi- 
tions have carefully examined and mapped this land of wonders. 
It is now visited yearly by about 6,000 tourists, coming up the 
Yellowstone Valley on a branch of the Northern Pacific Rail- 
road to Cinnabar, which is within six miles of the Mammoth 
Springs ; or leaving the Utah Northern line at Beaver Canon, 
no miles from Firehole Basin. Stages run to the Park from 
both these stations, and stop at the hotels, which are managed 
by the Yellowstone- Park Association, under certain restrictions 
of the Government. The Park is policed by two companies of 
the 1st U. -S. Cavalry, to prevent mutilation of the geysers, 
wanton destruction of game and the burning of the forests. 
The best months for a visit are July, August or September, and even then the nights are 
frosty. The Government protects game within this great holiday reservation by stringent 
laws ; and deer and antelope, elk and moose, wolves and foxes, big-horns and coyotes, and 
many other wild animals increase and multiply within these vast forests. There are also 
grizzly, cinnamon, black, silver-tipped, smut-faced and silk bears ; and in the remoter val- 
leys small herds of buffalo may be found. The rapid extermination which is befalling 
many species of the larger animals of the West is arrested here, and the Park will be a 
museum of the saved remnant of otherwise extinct races. 

The deep and far-winding Yellowstone Lake is shaped like a hand, with a huge thumb 
and misshapen fingers. It has a length of 20 miles and a width of 15 miles, with a shore- 
line of 112 miles, lying upon the crest of the continent, 7,440 feet above the sea, under 
rugged, gray and snow-capped mountains. The lake is always placid at morning, but later 
a strong west wind rises and covers the water with white-caps, throwing also a booming 
surf along the eastern shore and against the pine-clad promontories and islands. This gem 
of emerald green set amid dark volcanic mountains has pure and cold water, and is bordered 
on the south and west by heavy pine-forests and on the north and east by grassy prairies, 
running up to the base of a line of peaks 10,000 feet high, clad with snow until far in the 
summer. Half a mile south, and only 300 feet above the lake, is the crest of the Conti- 
nental Divide. 

Elsewhere in the Park are the beautiful Shoshone and Lewis lakes, the sources of the 
Snake River, whose waters flow to the Columbia and the Pacific Ocean through hundreds 
of leagues of lava-faced caiions. 

Heart Lake also sends its shining stream from near Mt. Sheridan to join this river, 
which then pours through Jackson Lake, close under the huge Teton Range. Along the 
eastern side of Jackson Lake is the valley known to the old-time trappers as Jackson's Hole, 
and used as a winter rendezvous. There are noble falls on the Madison, Gibbon, Firehole 
and Gardiner rivers ; and in the emerald pools about them dwell countless trout. Tower 
Creek runs from Mt. Washburne to the lower part of the Grand Cafion, with a series of 
wonderful falls, canons, rocky towers, basaltic palisades and sulphur springs. 



INDEX. 



Abbot-Downing Co., 547. 

Aberdeen, S. D., 794, 793. 

Absaraka Range, Wy., 910. 

Acadians, La., 29:;, 302. 

Acid Phosphate, 780. 

Adams & Westlake Co., 226. 

Adams, Fort, R. I., 769. 

Adalbert College, Ohio, 672. 

Adirondack Mts., 582, 583. 

Adler & Sallivan, 115, 214, 413,414, 
876, 279, 636. 

Adriaen Blok, 118. 

Adrian, Mich., 415. 

Agate Iron Ware, 642. 

Agnevvs Hospital for Insane, 94. 

Agricultural Implements, 225. 

Agriculture, Depart, of, 158, 151. 

Aiken, S. C, 785, 784. 

Akron Cereal Mills, 687. 

Akron, Ohio, 668, 67^. 

Akron Sewer Pipe Co., 68*^. 

Alabama : history, 27 ; name, 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tion, 29 ; climate, 30 ; agricul- 
ture, 31 ; minerals, government, 
32 ; charities and corrections, 
National institutions, 33 ; edu- 
cation, 34 ; newspapers, chief 
cities, 35 ; railroads, navigation, 
manufactures, 41 ; finances, 42 ; 
map, 461. 

Ala. Land & Development Co., 

31, 41- 

Alabama River, 29, 30, 35. 

Alamo, The, 812. 

Alaska : historic, 43 ; name, seal, 
governors, descriptive, 44 ; gov- 
ernment, 49 ; minerals, 51 ; seal 
fisheries, chief cities, 52 ; map, 

465- 
Alaskans, 50. 

Albany, 609, 603, 591, 606, 577. 
Albany Post-office, 634. 
Albemarle Sound, 648, 649. 
Albert Field Tack Co., 395. 
Albertypes, 362. 

Albuquerque, N. M., 574,572, 573. 
Albuquerque Cathedral, 571. 
Alburgh Springs, Vt., 843. 
Alcatraz, Cal., 92, 80, 72. 
Alcazar, The, St. Augustine, 175. 
Aleutian Archipelago, 45, 48-. 
Ale.xander, A. J., 281, 282, 283. 
Alexandria, Va., 150, 162, 851, 852. 
Alfalfa, 86, 109. 
Alfred University, N. Y., 595. 
Alger, Smith & Co., 408. 
Algonquin Club, 360, 359. 
Alhambra Library, Cal., 86. 
Alleghany Mts., 649, 30, 717. 
Allegheny Arsenal, Penn., 728. 
Allegheny City, 738, 733, 734. 
Allegheny College, 731. 
Allegheny Observatory, 731. 
Allegheny Portage R. R., 740. 
Allegheny River, Penn., 719. 
Allegrippus Curve, Penn., 720. 



Allen & Ginter, 864. 

Allen, Ethan, 839, 840. 

Allen's English & Classical School, 

West Newton, Mass., 358. 
Allentown, Penn., 739. 
Alligator Swamp, N. C, 649. 
Allis, H. G., 66. 
Allyn Memorial, Hartford, 133. 
Almond Orchards, Cal., 83. 
Alpine Pass, Col., no. 
Alpine Tunnel, Col., 112. 
Alton, 111., 218. 
Altoona, Penn., 739. 
Alum Cave, Tenn., 798. 
Amarg(3sa River, Cal., 76. 
America, the name, 7. 
American Bank Note Co., 630. 
American Biscuit & Mfg. Co., 230, 

456, 644, 452. 
American Book Co., 629. 
American Bottom, 111., 202, 204. 
American Card Clothing Co., 388. 
American Central Ins. Co., 455. 
American Exchange Bank, Du- 

luth, 435. 
American Falls, Idaho, 196. 
American Flag, 11, 4. 
American Insurance Co., 561. 
American Philosophic Society, 

734-. 

American Ship W indlass Co., 779. 

American Straw Board & Lum- 
ber Co., 684. 

American Waltham Watch Co., 
380. 

American Wheel Co., 226, 692, 746, 
245, 416. 

American Wine Co., 457. 

Ames Building, 375. 

Ames family, 304, 379. 

Ames Library, N. Easton, 377. 

Ames Monument, Wy., 906, go8. 

Ames, Oliver, 379. 

Ames lOliver) & Sons, 379. 

Amherst, Mass., 119, 349. 

Amherst College, Mass., 354, 356. 

Amoskeag Falls, N. H., 540. 

Amoskeag Mfg. Co., 545. 

Amsterdam, N. Y., 603. 

Anaconda Mine, Mont., 519. 

Anaheim, Cal., 80. 

Anarchists, 111., 203. 

Anacortes, Wash., 870. 

Ancient and Hon. Artillery, 350. 

Ancient Court-House, 294. 

Anderson, J. C. 231, 400. 

Anderson Pressed Brick, 644, 231. 

Anderson Common Brick Co., 231. 

Andersonville, Ga., 186. 

Andover Seminary, 355, 357. 

Andros, Sir Edmund, 341, 577, 118. 

Andre, Major, 576. 

Anheuser-Busch Brewery, 457. 

Animas Canon, 106. 

A. N. Kellogg Newspaper Co., 212. 

Annapolis, Md., 334, 328, 332, 322, 
22, 17. 



Ann Arbor, Mich., 412, 415. 

Ann, Cape, Mass., 346, 347, 348 

Anniston, Ala., 36, 35. 

Anniston Inn, Ala., 36. 

Ansonia Brass & Copper Co., 
138. 

Ansonia Clock Co., 633, 139. 

Antelope Buttes, Okla., 695. 

Antelope Island, Utah, 835, 837. 

Antelope State, 522. 

Anthony, E. & H. T., 633. 

Antietam, Md., 322, 333, 323. 

Antietam National Cemetery, 327. 

Antioch College, Ohio, 672, 673. 

Anti-rent War, 581. 

Anti-slavery, 343. 

Apache Pass, Ariz. 56. 

Apaches, 54, 33, 695. 

Apache State, 54. 

Appalachian Mts., 12. 

Applejack, 555. 

Aransas Pass, Texas, 815. 

Arapahoes, Okla., 694. 

Ararat, Mount, Penn., 740. 

Arbuckle Bros. Coffee Co., 640. 

Arcade, Pullman, 215. 

Arcadia Valley, Mo., 447. 

Archaean Bluffs, Nev., 535. 

Archer & Pancoast Mfg. Co., 634. 

Arch Rock, Mackinac, 404. 

Archipelago de Haro, 870. 

Arctic Circle, 46, 47. 

Arctic Ocean, 48, 46, 47, 50. 

Argo, Col., 114. 

Arizona: history, 53; name, 
pet name, 54 ; arms, governors, 
description, 55 ; agriculture, 
minerals, government,railroads, 
58 ; map, 462. 

Arkansas: history, 59; name, 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 61; climate, farming, 64; 
finances, minerals, government, 
66 ; education, chief cities, 67 ; 
railroads, manufactures, 68 ; 
map, 463. 

Arkansas City, Kan., 272. 

Ark. Deaf Mute Institute, 65. 

Ark. Industrial University, 67, 62. 

Arkansas Post, 60, 59. 

Arkansas River, 106, 62, 266, 248. 

Ark. School for the Blind, 65. 

Arlington Hotel, D. C, 164. 

Arlington, Va., 855, 852, 854, 163. 

Armenians, 366, 368. 

Armor-plate, 748. 

Armory, U. S., 349, 352. 

Armour Packing Co., 456. 

Arms-making, 381. 

Armstrong, Cator & Co., 337. 

Army, The, 17, 156. 

Army Medical Museum, 159, 162. 

Army signal-flags, 4. 

Army of Utah, 832. 

Aroostook War, Me., 312. 

Aroostook Valley, Me., 316. 

Arrowhead Hot Springs, 80. 



914 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Artesian State, 790. 
Art Club, Phila., 727. 
Arthur-kill Bridge, 562, 608. 
Art Institute, Chicago, 222. 
Art Metal Goods, 134. 
Art Museum, Ohio, 674. 
Art Printing, 628. 
Asbestos Packing Co., 397. 
Asbury Park, N. J., 554. 
Asheville, N. C, 650. 
Ashland Iron & Steel Co., 894. 
Ashland, Ky., 282. 
Ashland, Wis., 898, 899. 
Aspen, Col., no. 
Asquam Lake, N. H., 540. 
Assay Office, N. Y., 610. 
Assabet Mills, Mass., 387. 
Assay Office, Helena, 515. 
Assiniboine, Fort, 518, 517. 
Assiniboines, Mont., 518. 
Astoria, Ore., 6g8, 708. 
Astor Library, N. Y., 626. 
Atchison, Kan., 272, 264. 
Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, 

272. "2, 574, 694. 

Athenaeum, Boston, 360. 
Athenaeum, Pittsfield, 345. 
Atherton, J. M., distillery, 292. 
Athletic Goods, 232. 
Athens, Ga., 190, 187. 
Atkinson, B. A., & Co., 400. 
Atlanta Consiiiu/ion, 186, 187. 
Atlanta, Ga., 189, 178, 179, 183, 

185, 186, 187, 190, 192. 
Atlanta LTniversity, 188. 
Atlantic Cafion, Mont., 513. 
Atlantic City, N. J., 553, 554. 
Atlantic Coast Line, 863, 562, 176, 

654- 
Atlantic Mutual Ins. Co., 619. 
Atlas of the States, 416. 
Atoka, I. T., 252. 
Attu Island, Alaska, 45. 
Auburn Theol. Seminary, 596. 
Auditorium, Dining Hall, 216. 
Auditorium, The, 216,621. 
Augusta, Ga., 189, 190, 178, 186, 

187, 179, 181. 
Augusta Canal, Ga., 191. 
Augusta, Me., 316, 318. 
Aurora, 111., 216. 
Au-Sable Chasm, N. Y., 585. 
Au-Sable Pond, N. Y., 585. 
Austin, John, & Son, 779. 
Austin, Te.xas, 820, 824, 816, 821. 
Automatic Fire Extinguishers, 

778. 
Avery, B. F., & Sons Plow 

Works, 290. 
Azure Cliffs, LTtah, 833. 
Azore Islanders, 366. 

Babcock & Wilcox Co., 565. 
Baboquivari Peak, Ariz., 55. 
Badger State, 888. 
Bad Lands, 657, 511, 523, 790. 
Bags, 457. 

Bailey Block, Seattle, 877. 
Baker, Walter & Co., 383. 
Baking Powder, 780. 
Bald-Eagle Valley, Pa., 718. 
Baldwin, D. H., & Co., 688. 
Baldwin Locomotive Works, 746. 
Ball High School, 821. 
Ball, Hutchings & Co., 826. 
Balsam Mts., N. C. 645, 650, 652. 
Baltimore, Md., 333, 322, 



B. & O. Railroad, 335 322, 324, 

332, 336, 154.884- 
B.& O. R. R. Offices, Chicago, 223. 
Baltimore Cathedral, 328. 
Baltimore City Hall, 331. 
Baltimore C. H., 334. 
Baltimore, Lord, 321, 322. 
Baltimore Monuments, 333. 
Baltimore P. O., 334. 
B. &. O. R. R. station, PhiVa., 739. 
B. & O. R. R. Pittsburgh, 73S. 
Baltimore Union station, 324. 
Baltimore Sun, 332. 
Baltimore Sun, D. C, 164. 
Bananas, 172. 
Bangor, Me., 318, 319. 
Bank Note Paper, 389, 742. 
Bank of America, 612. 
Bank of Commerce, Memphis, 

808. 
Bank of Kentucky, 287. 
Bank of N. America, Phila., 743. 
Baptist Church, First, Boston, 367. 
Baptist Church, Little Rock, 67 
Barbour Bros. Co., 566. 
Barbed Wire, 378. 
Barge Office, N. Y., 25. 
Bar Harbor, Me., 314, 315. 
Barn Bluff, Minn., 420. 
Barnegat Light, N. J., 550. 
Barnett, J. W., 303. 
Barney & Smith Mfg. Co., 681. 
Barnum, PhineasT., 142. 
Barracks, Ft. Leavenworth, 272. 
Barre, Vt., 845. 

Barrow, Point, Alaska, 46, 47, 50. 
Bartholdi Statue, 7, 558. 
Bates College, Me., 318. 
Bath, Me., 318. 

Baton Rouge, La., 306, 307, 295. 
Battery Park Hotel, N. C, 650. 
Battery, The, Charleston, 782. 
Battle-Born State, 533. 
Battle-Creek College, 410, 413. 
Battle Monument, Bait., 3^3. 
Bausch & Lomb Optical Co., 637. 
Baxter Court, Nashville, 805. 
Baylor University, Tex., 817, 822. 
Bayonne, N. J., 563. 
Bayou Bartholomew, Ark., 63. 
Bayous, 298, 294. 
Bayou State, 439. 
Bay State, 344. 
Beach & Co., Hartford, 137. 
Bear Flag, 71. 

Bear Lake, Utah, 834, 835, 195. 
Bear River, Utah, 834, 835, 836, 

194. 
Bear State, 61. 

Bear's Tooth Mt., Mont., 513. 
Bear Valley Dam, 85. 
Beaver City, Okla, 696. 
Beaver Head Rock, Mont., 512. 
Beaver Tail Light-House, R. I., 

769. 
Beaufort, N. C, 647, 649. 
Beaufort, S. C, 788, 781, 784, 787. 
Bedford Springs, Penn., 719, 720. 
Bedloe's Island, N. J., 558. 
Bee Building, Omaha, 527. 
Bee-Hive House, Utah, 835. 
Beet Sugar, 524. 
Beet Sugar Factory, Cal., 82. 
Belding, Mich., 417. 
Belding Bros. & Co., 136, 378, 418, 

644, 417, 396. 
Belkoffski, Alaska, 45. 



Belle Meade, Tenn., 800. 

Bellows Falls, Vt., 840, 845. 

Bell's Rock Light, Va., 24. 

Bell Tower, Augusta, Ga., 178. 

Bell Buoy, 24. 

Belmont County C. H., Ohio, 665 

Belmont School, 94. 

Belo, Col, A H., 826. 

Beloil College, Wis., 896. 

Belts, 692. 

Belvedere, Central Park, 580. 

Bemis Bro. Bag Co., 457, 530. 

Ben Htir, 574. 

Bennington Mon't, Vt., 842, 840. 

Bennett, James Gordon, 626. 

Benton, Fort, Mont., 518, 519, 509, 

513. 517- 
Benton, T. H., 443. 
Benton Statue, 445. 
Berea College, Ky., 284. 
Berea Ohio, 66g. 
Bering Sea, 45, 46, 52. 
Bering Strait, Alaska, 46. 
Berkeley, Va., 853. 
Berkeley, Cal., 96. 
Berkeley Divinity School, Conn., 

126. 
Berkeley Springs, W. Va., 881, 882. 
Berkeley, Univ. of Cal., 91, 93, 96. 
Berkshire, 346, 345. 
Berwind-White Co., 723. 
Bessemer, Ala., 38. 
Bessemer, Penn., 748. 
Bethany College, W. Va., 883. 
Bethesda Springs, Wis., 890, 8gi. 
Bethlehem, Penn., 735. 
Bethlehem Iron Co.'s Works, 747. 
Bexley Hall, Gambler, O., 672. 
Bible Institute, 111., 210. 
Bicycles, 140. 
Bid well. Fort, Cal., 92. 
Big Bend Country, 868. 
Big Lands, Neb., 523. 
Big-Horn Range, 905. 
Big Sioux Valley, 790, 791, 794. 
Big Springs, Texas, 816. 
Big Stone Lake, 420, 792, 423. 
Big Trees, Cal., 75, 89, 91. 
Big Woods, Minn., 422,424. 
Billings Library, Vt.. 843, 846. 
Billings & Spencer Co., 139. 
Biloxi, Miss., 438, 440. 
Binder-Twine, 388. 
Binghamton, N. Y., 603. 
Bird Seed, 231. 
Birmingham, Ala., 35, 33. 
Biscuits, 230. 

Bismark, N. D., 658, 666, 655, 659. 
Bismark Bridge, N. D., 656. 
Bissell Carpet-Sweeper Co., 418. 
Bitter Root Mts., 512, 518, 194. 
Bitter Root Valley, Mont., 515. 
Bituminous coal field, 722. 
Bivouac 0/ the Dead, i-ji,. 
Black Belt, Ala., 30, 31. 
Black Canon, Ariz., 56. 
Black Canon, Col., 106. 
Blackfoot, Idaho, 198. 
Black Hills, 791, 790, 792, 793, 794. 
Blacking, 758. 
Black River, Ark., 63. 
Black-Rock Desert, Nevada, 534. 
Blackwater State, 522. 
Blackwell's Island, N. Y., 593. 
Bladensburg, 150. 
Bladon Springs, Ala., 32. 
Blake, (George F.,) Mfg. Co.,'393. 



Blatchford & Co., E. W., 228. 
Blatchford Cartridge Works, 228. 
Bleachery, 776. 
Bleeding Kansas, 264. 
Blind Asylum, Bait., 328. 
Block Island, R. I., 764, 766. 
Bloody Canon, Cal., 74. 
Bloomsdale Seed Farm, 758. 
Blount Springs, Ala., 32. 
Blowing Cave, Va., 855. 
Blue Grass, 280, 286. 
Blue Grass Pastures, 279. 
Blue Hen's Chickens, 144. 
Blue Hills, Mass., 344, 346, 347, 

348. 
Blue Laws, 119. 
Blue Lick Springs, Ky., 278. 
Blue Mt. Lake, 582. 
Blue Mts., Ore., 700. 
Blue Ridge, 647, 651, 649, 855, 181, 

781, 782, 783. 
Bluffs of Mississippi, 255. 
Bluffton, Ala., 40. 
Board of Trade, Chicago, 221. 
Board of Trade, Little Rock, 66. 
Bobet Bros. Stave Yards, 298. 
Boerne, Te.xas, 818. 
Boilers, Insuring, 132. 
Boise City, Idaho, 198, 199. 
Bomoseen, Lake, Vt., 842. 
Bonanza Wheat Farms, 656. 
Bonaventure Cemetery, 188. 
Bond paper, 389. 
Bonner, Robert, 626. 
Bookbinders' cloth, 632. 
Book Cliffs, Utah, 833. 
Book News, 762. 
Book of Mormon, 833, 837. 
Boomer's Home in Okla., 695. 
Boomers' Paradise, 694. 
Boone, Daniel, 273, 286. 
Boone Monument, 274. 
Boon-Island Light, 318. 
Boonton Nail Works, 555. 
Boonton, N. J., 556. 
Booth, A., Packing Co., 229, 326. 
Boots and Shoes, 228. 
Bora.x, 88. 

Borax, Nevada, 536. 
Border-Eagle State, 439. 
Boston, 372, 339, 340, 343, 344, 347, 

349- 35°. 351- 352, 353. 354. 355- 
Boston & Bangor Steamship Co., 

319. 37°- 
Boston & Col. Smelter, 114. 
Boston & Lockport Block Co., 

397- 
Boston & Maine Railroad, 318, 

543. 369- 
Boston Art Club, 363. 
Boston Athletic Association, 359. 
Boston Belting Co., 382. 
Boston Bridge Works, 393, 129,544. 
Boston Cathedral, 367. 
Boston Charp. of Commerce, 347. 
Boston City Hospital, 350. 
Boston Common, 349. 
Boston C. H., 351. 
Boston Harbor, 344. 
Boston Herald, 371. 
Boston Massacre, 343. 
Boston Mts., Ark., 62, 67. 
Boston Museum of Fine Arts, 394. 
Boston Post-office, 351, 352. 
Boston Public Library, 362. 
Boston Rubber Shoe Co., 382. 
Boston Theatre, Mass., 359. 



INDEX. 

Boston Y. M. C. A., 371. 

Botanical Garden, t). C, 160. 

Bottle Glass, 564. 

Bowdoin College, Me., 317. 

Bowen, Henry C, 625. 

Bourbon, Whisky, 291. 

Bowie, Fort, Ariz., 57. 

Boxes, 39 r. 

Bozeman, Mont., 520, 510. 

Bradley & Hubbard Mfg. Co., 

134. 635- 
Bradley Fertilizor Co., 400, 173. 
Bradstreet Co., 614. 
Branding Cattle, Idaho, 198. 
Brandon, Vt., 845. 
Brandywine River, Del., 144, 147. 
Brass and Iron Fittings, 140. 
Brattleboro, Vt., 839, 842, 843, 845, 

848. 
Brazos River, 815. 
Brazos Santiago, 813, 822. 
Breckenridge, Minn., 423. 
Breslin, James H., 621. 
Breweries, goo, 457. 
Brick MakiiTg-, 231, 399, 894, 644. 
Bridal Veil Falls, Cal. ,75, 74. 
Bridge over the Ohio, Cairo, 203. 
Bridgeport, Conn., 130. 
Bridgeport Wharf Scene, 133. 
Bridger, Fort, Wyo., 832, 903. 
Bridges, 393, 148, 750. 
Bridgeton, N. J., 561. 
Brigham, Hopkins & Co., 338. 
BrillCo., J. G., 755. 
Bristol, R. I., 766, 768, 779. 
Britannia, 380, 135. 
Broad-Street Station, Phila., 738. 
Broadwater, Hotel, Mont., 514. 
Broadway Theatre, Denver, 113. 
Bronze Doors, 163, 155. 
Brookings, S. D., 793, 794. 
Brooklyn City Hall, 603. 
Brooklyn Navy Yard, 600. 
Brooklyn, N. Y., 602, 577. 
Brother Jonathan, 119, 7. 
Brown (Alex.) & Sons, Bait., 335. 
Brown & Sharpe Mfg. Co., 776. 
Brownell Hall, Omaha, 526. 
Brown, Fort, 822. 
Brown, John, 263, 343, 879, 882. 
Brown, Julius L., 183. 
Brownsville, Te.xas, 822, 813, 818. 
Brown's Hoisting & Conveying 

Machine Co., 680. 
Brown's Patent Movable Bridge 

Tramway, 680. 
Brown University, 769. 
Brunswick, Ga., 189, 182, 180, 178. 
Brunswick, Hotel, 375. 
Brunswick Springs, Vt., 843. 
Brush-Making, 397. 
Bryn-Mawr College, 728, 732. 
Bryn-Mawr School, J31. 
Buchtel College, Ohio, 673. 
Buckeye State, 665. 
Bucknell University, Penn., 731, 

740. 
Budd's Lake, N. J., 553- 
Buena-Vista Lake, Cal., 77. 
Buffalo, 603, 664, 586, 580, 628, 621, 

607, 631, 601, 201, 606. 
Buffalo and the Niagara River, 

608. 
Buffalo, Bank of, 613. 
Buffalo City Hall, 607. 
Buffalo Express, 638. 
Buffalo, Garden City, Kan., 266. 



Buffalo Library, 599. 

Buffalo, Music Hall, 599. 

Buffalo-Plains State, 102. 

Bullene, Moore, Emery & Co., 459. 

Bullion State, 446. 

Bull Run, 851. 

Bulwagga Bay, N. Y., 580. 

Bunker-Hill Monument, 340, 342. 

Buoys, 24. 

Burgoyne, 579. 

Burkhardt (A. E.) & Co., 689. 

Burlington, Iowa, 261, 254. 

Burlington, N. J., 561. 

Burlington Route, 219. 

Burlington, Vt., 845, 840, 842, 843, 

846, 848. 
Burlington Woolen Mills, 847. 
Burnside Statue, 766. 
Burnside's Bridge, 322. 
Burr, Aaron, 274, 664. 
Business Men's Association, 236. 
Butte City, 519. 
Butte Court-House, 519. 
Buttes of Columbia, 700. 
Buttons, 138. 
Buttonwoods, R. I., 766. 
Buzzards Bay, 347, 370. 

Cabinet Gorge, Clarke's Fork, 194. 

Cabin-John Bridge, 153, 323. 

Cabot Sheetings, 386. 

Cache Valley, Utah, 834, 836. 

Caddo Camp, Okla., 695. 

Cadets' Armory, Boston, 349. 

Caesar's Head, S. C, 784. 

Caffery Cen. Sugar Refinery, 305. 

Cairo, 111., 216, 203, 218. 

Calaveras Grove, 89. 

Calf-skins, 846. 

Calhoun, John C, 781, 784. 

Calico, 777. 

California : historic, 69 ; name, 
seal, list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 73 ; climate, 80 ; agricul- 
ture, 81 ; mines, 86 ; govern- 
ment, national institutions, 91 ; 
education, 92 ; newspapers, 
chief cities, 95 ; railroads, in- 
surance, 98 ; "finance, 99 ; map, 

464, 465- 
California wheat, 82. 
Calipooia Mts., Ore., 700. 
Calistoga, Cal., 89. 
Calistoga Petrified Forest, 81. 
Calumet & Hecla Mine, 410. 
Calumet Club, Chicago, 205. 
Calumet Plantation, La., 303. 
Calvert County C. H., 41. 
Camas Prairie, Idaho, 194. 
Cambridge City Hall, 346. 
Cambridge City Library, 352. 
Cambridge, Mass., 373, 342, 343, 

352. 355- 
Cambria Iron Works, 747, 761. 
Camden, N. J., 561. 
Camden, S. C., 782, 7S3. 
Campbell, Alexander, 879, 288, 884. 
Campbellites, 288. 
Campbell, John A.., 903. 
Camp Supply, Okla., 696. 
Camulos, Cal., 78, 97. 
Canadian River, N. M., 570. 
Candles, 69 1. 
Canned Goods, 229. 
Canoe Valley, Penn., 718. 
Canon City, Col., 108. 
Cafion de Chelly, Ariz., 55. 



A'LVG'S ITANDBOOA' Of' THE irA'/7ED STATES. 



916 



Cantilever Bridge, 587, 607. 
Cape-Ann Granite Co., 348. 
Cape-Cod Canal, 370. 
Cape- Fear River, N. C, 646, 647, 

649. 
Cape Horn, Wash., 868. 
Cape May, N. J., 554. 
Capitol Dome, View from, 151, 155. 
Capitol Freehold & Investment 

Co., 825, 821. 
Capitol, The, from the East, 155. 
Capitol, The United-States, 154. 
Carbons, 691. 
Card Board, 779. 
Card Clothing, 388. 
Car-Hardware, 226. 
Carleton College, Minn., 428. 
Carlisle, Penn., 729, 713. 
Carlsbad, Cal., 89. 
Carmel Bay, Cal., 90. 
Carmelo Valley, Cal., 69, 79. 
Carnegie Bros. & Co., 748. 
Carnegie Free Library, Penn., 

733- 7J4- 
Carnegie, Phipps & Co., 749. 
Carpenters' Hall, Penn., 711, 714. 
Carpets, 386, 399. 
Carpet Sweepers, 418. 
Carquinez Straits, Cal., 76. 
Carriage-Making, 682. 
Carriage Malleable Iron, 643. 
Cars, 417, 381, 681, 755. 
Carson City, Nevada, 536. 
Carson, Kit, 567, 71, 568. 
Carson River, Nevada, 534. 
Cartridges, 134, 228. 
Carver, Jonathan, 419, 424, 699. 
Casa Grande, Ariz., 54, 53. 
Cascades, N. C, 651. 
Cascade Mt. and Willamette-Val- 
ley Military Wagon-Road Co., 

Ore., 700, 701. 
Cascade Range, 700, 867. 
Case School of Applied Science, 

673- 
Case (J. I.) & Co., 901. 
Cash-Carrying Apparatus, 396. 
Casino, Newport, R. I., 766. 
Cass-County C. H., N. D., 656. 
Cass, Lewis, 401. 
Casselton, N. D., 659. 
Castalian Springs, Miss., 440. 
Cast-iron Pipe, 565. 
Castle Gate, Utah, 832. 
Castleton, Vt., 842, 845, 846. 
Castle William, N. Y., 603. 
Catalogues, 628. 
Catamount Monument, Vt., 842. 
Cataract Construction Co., N. Y., 

608. 
Catawba Grapes, 667. 
Catawba Indians, 781. 
Cathedral Bluffs, Col., 106. 
Cathedral, Phila., 734. 
Cathedral of St. Patrick, 597.600. 
Cathedral, Providence, 772. 
Cathedral Rock, Col., ioq. 
Cathedral, St. Augustine, 176. 
Cathedral St. Louis, N. O., 297. 
Cathedral Schools, Garden City, 

N. Y., 601. 
Cathedral Spires, 73, 444. 
Catholic Missions, 288. 
Catholic University, 153, 154. 
Cats' and Dogs' Home, 374, 368. 
Catskill-Mountain House, 579. 
Catskill Mts,, 584, 



Cattle in Montana, 516. 

Cattle Raising, 828. 

Cavalry School, 270, 271. 

Cave Dwellings, Ariz., 54. 

Cave in the Rock, 204. 

Cayuga Lake, N. Y., 585. 

Cedar Keys, Fla., 176. 

Cedar Rapids, Iowa, 262. 

Celluloid Co., 566. 

Cement-Mills, 289. 

Cemetery Walk, New Orleans, 309. 

Centennial State, 102. 

Central Music Hall, Chicago, 229. 

Central Pacific R. R., 98. 

Central R.R. Station, Atlanta, 186. 

Central Tenn. College, 804. 

Central Trust Co., 614. 

Centre Market, Charleston, 787. 

Centre Market, D. C, 151. 

Centre of Population, 24. 

Centre of the Union, 265. 

Chain Belting, 692. 

Chain Bridge, Mass., 343. 

Chairs, 395. 

Chalcedony Park, Ariz., 57. 

Chalmette Battle Monument, 296. 

Chalmette National Cemetery, 

297. 
Chamber of Commerce, Boston, 
^347- 

Chambersburg, Penn., 713. 
Chamita, Old Mill, 571. 
Champlain, 340, 839. 
Champlain Canal, N. Y., 606. 
Ghamplain, Lake, 842, 578, 584, 840. 
Charitable & Correctional Inst., 

N. Y., 593- 
Charity Hospital, N. O., 310. 
Charles, Lake, La., 295. 
Charleston Block, Bessemer, 39. 
Charleston, College of, 78S. 
Charleston., cruiser, 23. 
Charleston Mining & Mfg. Co., 

787. 
Charleston, S. C, 788, 782, 784, 783, 

781. 
Charleston, W. Va., 884. 
Charlestown Navy Yard, 352. 
Charlotte, N. C, 652, 654. 
Charter Oak, 118. 
Charter-Oak Race-Track, 129. 
Chase, S. P., 661. 
Chatfield & Woods Co., 685. 
Chatham Artillery, Ga., 186. 
Chatham-Co. C. H., Ga., 1S2. 
Chattahoochee River, Ga., 181. 
Chattanooga & Lookout-Mt. R. 

R., 806, 807. 
Chattanooga Land, Coal, Iron & 

Railway Co., Tenn., 807. 
Chattanooga Post-Office, 799. 
Chattanooga, Tenn., 807, 806, 178, 

796, 798, 799, 801, 804, 809. 
Chauncy-Hall School, Boston, 358. 
Chautauqua Lake, N. Y., 585.' 
Chautauqua University, 596. 
Chautauqua University, Iowa, 258. 
Cheat River, W. Va., 880, 881. 
Chelan, Lake, Wash., 871. 
Chelsea, Mass., 361, 344, 388. 
Chemawa, Ore., 706. 
Chemical Nat. Bank, 611. 
Chemicals, 760. 
Chemists, 418. 

Cheney Bros. Silk-Mills, 136. 
Chequamegon Bay, Wis., 891, 886, 



Cheraw, S. C, 784. 
Cherokee Capitol, 251. 
Cherokee Nat. Female Seminary, 

250. 
Cherokee Orphan Asylum, 250. 
Cherokee Outlet, 696, 694. 
Cherokees, 250, 248, 795, 797, 177, 

178, 781, 27, 693, 645. 
Chesapeake & Del. Canal, 148. 
Chesapeake Bay, 325, 145. 
Chester, Penn., 739. 
Chestnut Hill, Mass., 344. 
Chestnut Ridge, Penn., 718. 
Cheyenne, 908, 907. 
Cheyenne Camp, Okla., 694. 
Cheyenne Cafion, Col., 108. 
Cheyenne Cave, 906. 
Cheyenne Station, 906. 
Chicago, 212. 
Chicago Anderson Brick Cos., 

231. 
Chicago & Northwestern R. R., 

219, 218, 899. 
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy R. 

R., 219. 
Chicago^ cruiser, 23. 
Chicago, Crib, 202. 
Chicago Lake, Col., 105, 107. 
Chicago Lumber Company, 232. 
Chicago, Milwaukee & St. -Paul 

R. R., 221, 898, 899. 
Chicago P. O., 220. 
Chicago Public Library, 210. 
Chicago Shot Tower, 228. 
Chicago Tribune, 211. 
Chicago University, 209. 
Chickahominy, Va., 854. 
Chickamauga, 178, 796. 
Chickasaws, 251, 437, 438, 27, 795. 
Chicopee, Mass., 163, 386, 374. 
Chief Joseph, 200. 
Chilhowee Mts., 798, 802. 
Chillicothe, Ohio, 664. 
Chilkat Mission, Alaska, 48, 49. 
Chilkoot Pass, Alaska, 48. 
Chilocco, Okla., 696. 
Chinamen, 72, 96, 24. 
Chincoteague, Va., 856. 
Chipeta Falls, Col., 106. 
Chippewas, 888, 419, 427. 
Chiricahua Mts., Ariz., 55, 58. 
Chittenden Memorial Library,i25. 
Chocolate, 383. 

Choctaw Nation, I. T., 252, 27. 
Christ Church, Boston, 367. 
Christ Church, Phila., 734. 
Christian Commission, 581. 
Christians, 288. 
Chromo-Lithographs, 361, 690, 630, 

631. 
Chronicle, San Francisco, 95. 
Cimmaron, 696. 
Cmcinnati, Ohio, 676, 663, 665, 674, 

666, 668. 
Cin. Art Museum, 674. 
Cin. Chamber of Commerce, 67S. 
Cin. Cooperage Co., 685. 
Cin., Hamilton & Dayton Depot, 

678. 
Cin. in 1808, 668. 
Cin. Post-Office. 664. 
Cin. Southern R'y, 286. 
Citadel, Charleston, 784, 788. 
Cities of 100,000 population, 5. 
Cities of U. S., 25. 
City Hospital, Boston, 350. 
City Nat. Bank, Dallas, 827. 



INDEX. 



917 



Claflin(H. B.) Co., 637,638. 

Claflin University, S. C., 785, 78S. 

Claflin (Wm.) Coburn & Co., 384. 

Claflin, Wm., 78S, 384, 346. 

Clam-Bake, 766. 

Clarendon Springs, Vt., 843. 

Clark, Charles F., 615. 

Clarke (N. P.) & Co., 426. 

Clarke's Fork, Mont., 512. 

Clark, Fort, Texas, 822. 

Clark, George Rogers, 233, 285, 

401, 202, 203. 
Clarksburg, W. Va., 882. 
Clarksville, Tenn., 804. 
Clark University, Atlanta, 188. 
Clark University, Mass., 356. 
Clatsop Beach, Ore., 704. 
Clay, Henry, 273, 274, 281. 
Clearing-House, N. Y., 609. 
Clear Lake, Cal., 77. 
Clear Lake, Iowa, 255, 256. 
Cleaveland Statue, 663. 
Cleopatra's Bath, gog. 
Cleveland, 677, 672, 668, 671, 663, 

674. 
Cleveland Lighthouse, 662. 
Cleveland Soldiers' Monument, 

663. 
Cleveland P. O., 664. 
Cleveland Pumping Station, 667. 
Cleveland Stone Co., 66g. 
Cleveland Viaduct, 679. 
Cliff-Dvvellers, Col., 106, 116. 
Cliff Walk, Newport, 767. 
Clifton, Ariz., 58. 
Climate of U. S., 13. 
Clinch River, Tenn., 7gg. 
Clocks, 633. 
Clothing, 227, 398. 
Cloud-Cap Inn., Ore., egg. 
Coaches, 546. 
Coal, 88, 722. 

Coal-Handling Machinery, 623. 
Coal Mining, 723, 724. 
Coast Defence, 19. 
Coast Marsh, 297. 
Coast Range, 76, 699, 867. 
Coast Survey, 158. 
Cocheco Mfg. Co., 546. 
Cockade State, 324. 
Cocoanuts, 168. 

Cod, Cape, 339, 343, 346, 347, 349. 
Code, Elfelt c& Co., 83. 
Cod Fisheries, 350, 365. 
CcEur-d' Alene Lake, 196, igg, 200. 
CcEur-d'Alene Mining District, 

198. 
Coes Wrench Co., 395. 
Coffee, 640. 
Coffee Mills, 753. 

Cogswell Polytechnic College, 94. 
Cohoes, N. Y., 603. 
Coke, 724. 

Coke Ovens, Ga., 183. 
Colby University, Me., 317. 
Colchester Mills, 847. 
Cold-Pressed Nuts, 753. 
Cold Spring, N. Y., 579. 
CoIfa.x, Iowa, 257. 
Colfa.x Monument, 234. 
Colgate & Co., 564. 
Colgate University, N. Y., sgs. 
College Hospital, Minneapolis, 

425- 

College of New Jersey, 558. 

College of Physicians & Sur- 
geons, 597, 



College of the City of N. Y., 595. Consol. Kan. City Smelting Co. 
Coloma, Marshall Statue, 71. 268. 

Colorado : historic, loi ; name. 

State arms, list of governors, 

102 ; geography, 103 ; climate, 

107 ; agriculture, 109 ; mining, 

no; government, education, 

III ; railways, 112; chief cities, 

finance, 113 ; smelting, 114; map, 



Colorado Chiquito, Ariz., 57, 56. 
Col. Coal & Iron Co., 115. 
Colorado Desert, 80, 81. 
Colorado, Grand Caiion, 56, 834, 

835- 

Colorado Plateau, 12, 56. 

Colorado River, 13, 55, 106, 533. 

Colorado River, Te.xas, 815. 

Colorado Springs, 102, 108. 

Colorado, Steam Frigate, 23. 

Colored Schools, Ala., 33, 34- 

Colt's Patent Fire-Arms Co., 133. 

Columbia Capitol, 871. 

Columbia College, N. Y., 596. 

Columbia, Mouth of the, 700. 

Columbia Plateau, 12. 

Columbian University, D. C, 153. 

Columbia River, Ore., 697, 6g8, 512, 
13, 702, 865, 86q, 834. 

Columbia, S. C.\ 788, 781, 782, 785. 

Columbia, Tenn., 806, 804. 

Columbus Buggy Co., 682. 

Columbus, Ga., 179, 181. 

Columbus, Ohio, 67S. 

Columbus Statue, 445, 737. 

Colville River, Alaska, 48. 

Comanches, 695. 

Comanche Camp, Okla., 694. 

Commerce, 20. 

Commerce, Nat. Bank of, Kansas 
City, 455. 

Commerce, Nat. Bank of, St. Louis, 
454- 

Commonwealth Avenue, 375. 

Comstock Lode, Nevada, 535. 

Conanicut, R. I., 769, 766. 

Concord Asylum; 548. 

Concord Harness, N. H., 547. 

Concord, Mass., 342, 352. 

Concord, N. H., 543, 541, 548. 

Concord Railway Station, 543. 

Condiments, 640. 

Coney Island, N. Y., 591, 601. 

Confectionery, 383. 

Congregational Church, Siou.x 
City, 261. 

Congress, 16. 

Congressional Library, 157, 151. 

Connecticut : history, 116; name, 
seal, list of governors, 120 ; to- 
pography, geology, 121; climate, 
agriculture, government, 122 ; 
militia, charities and correc- 
tions, 123; National works, edu- 
cation, 124 ; books and papers, 
127 ; maritime commerce, rail- 
roads, 128 ; chief cities, i2g; in- 
surance, 130; manufactures, 132; 
map, 467. 

Conn. Capitol, 117, 123. 

Conn. Mutual Life Ins. Co., 131. 

Connecticut River, 346, 842, 540, 
121. 

Connellsville Coke Region, 724. 

Connellsville, Penn., 747. 

Conness, Mount, Cal., 74. 

Conservatory, White House, 151. 



Consol. Stock & Petroleum E.\- 
change, 610. 

Constitution, 6. 

Constitution, frigate, 23, 317, 343. 

Continental Hotel, Phila., 737. 

Continental Ins. Co., 6i8. 

Contra-Costa, Cal., 76. 

Convent of Good Shepherd, 308, 
428. 

Cook, J. W. & v., Salmon Can- 
nery, Ore., 703. 

Coolidge Memorial Library, 
Mass., 352. 

Coolidge, T. J., 355, 362. 

Cooperage, 685. 

Cooper's Well, Miss., 440. 

Cooper Union, N. Y., 598. 

Coosa River, Ala., 30. 

Coos Bay, Oregon, 702, 705. 

Copper, 138, 87, 122, 410. 

Copper implements, 885. 

Copper River, Alaska, 47, 51. 

Corals, Fla., 169. 

Corcoran Gallery, D. C, 160, 163. 

Cordage, 388. 

Cordilleran States, 12. 

Corliss, George H., 774. 

Corliss Safe Co., 774. 

Corliss Steam Engine Co., 774. 

Corliss, William, 774. 

Cornell Road, Ore., 702. 

Cornell University, 594. 

Corn Palace, Iowa, 258, 256. 

Cornwallis, Lord, 850. 

Coronado, 53, 263, 521. 

Coronado Beach, Cal., 87, g7. 

Coronation Rock, R. I., 765. 

Corpus Christi, Texas, 815, 818. 

Corvallis, Oregon, 705. 

Cosack & Co., 631. 

Coteau des Prairies, 427, 656, 423. 

Coteau du Grand Bois, 422. 

Cotton, 386, 441. 

Cotton Belt Route, 68. 

Cotton-Buyers, ig2, 808. 

Cotton Cloth, 777. 

Cotton Compressing, 810, 830. 

Cotton-Duck. 337. 

Cotton Exchange, Houston, 823. 

Cotton Exchange, Memphis, 7g9. 

Cotton Exchange, Mobile, 30. 

Cotton Exchange, N. O., 306. 

Cotton Exchange, N. Y., 610. 

Cotton-Factors, 808. 

Cotton- Field, Miss., 439. 

Cotton-Gins, 809, 438. 

Cotton-Machinery, 385. 

Cotton Mfg., 773, 545, 136, 78S. 

Cotton-Plantation State, 29. 

Cotton-Seed Oil, 301, 809. 

Cottonwood Canon, 833, 836, 837. 

Council Bluffs C. H., 261. 

Council Bluffs Post-Office, 261. 

Courant, Hartford, 127. 

Courier-Journal, Louisville, 284. 

Covenant Cb.urch, 213. 

Cowboys Nooning, Idaho, 198. 

Cowpens, S. C, 647, 782. 

Coyote State, 790. 

Crabtree Falls, Va., 856. 

Cradle of Liberty, 343. 

Cranberries, 555, 347. 

Cranberry Grade, 880. 

Crane & Co., 389. 

Crane Co,, 225. 



gil 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Crane Library, Quincy, Mass. ,362. 

Crane, Z. & W. iM., 390. 

Cranston, R. I., 768. 

Crater Lake, Ore., 699, 701. 

Creamery, 436. 

Creeks, 251, 177, 178, 693, 27, 28, 166. 

Creoles, 295. 

Creole State, 296. 

Crescent Creamery Co., 436. 

Crescent Springs, Ark., 60. 

Cresson, George V., 752. 

Cresson Springs, 719, 720. 

Creve-Coeur, Hi., 202. 

Crocker Art Gallery, Cal., 95. 

Crockery, 232. 

Crompton Loom Works, 385. 

Crooked River Valley, Oregon, 

701. 
Cross Timbers, L T., 248. 
Cross Timbers, Texas, 816. 
Croton Aqueduct, N. V., 608. 
Croton Water Works, N. Y., 608. 
Crow Indians, Mont., 518. 
Crown Point, N. Y., 839, 578, 582. 
Culebra Range, Col., 104. 
Cumberland Falls, Ky., 275. 
Cumberland Gap, 275, 276, 278, 

283, 795. 
Cumberland Island, Ga., 180. 
Cumberland Mts., 275, 795, 798, 

S02, 803. 
Cumberland, Md., 335, 322. 
Cumberland Plateau, 798, 707, 799, 

8ot, 802, 13. 
Cumijerland Presbyterians, 288. 
Cumberland River, 799, 278, 795, 

804. 
Cumberland Univ., Tenn., 804. 
Cumberland Valley, 718. 
Cunningham, Col. E. H., 820. 
Cunningham (James), Sons& Co., 

642. 
Currecanti Needle, Col., 109. 
Currituck Sound, 648. 
Cushman (Ara) Co., 320. 
Custom House, Charleston, 788. 
Custer, Fort, Mont., 517. 
Custer, Gen., 789, 791. 
Custer, Mont., 510. 
Custer Monument, 518. 
Custis Mansion, Va., 855. 
Cut-glass Table-ware, 757. 
Cutlery, 394. 

Cuyamarca Mts., Cal., 76. 
Cynthiana, Ky.,286. 
Cypress Point, Cal., 80. 

Dade Monument, 174, 175. 

Dahlonega, Ga., 185. 

Dairy Farm in Mont., 516. 

Dairy Products of L^. S., 14. 

Dakotas, 419, 656. 

Dale-Creek Bridge, Wy., 007. 

Dallas City Hall, 815. 

Dallas C. H., Tex., 814. 

Dallas Neivs, 826. 

Dallas, Texas, 824. 

Dalles of Wis., 892, 886, 888, 890. 

Dalton, Mass., 389. 

Dam and Canal, N. M.,S74. 

Dana, Charles A., 626. 

Dana, Mount, Cal., 74. 

Dansville, N. Y., 622. 

Danvers Asylum, Mass., 388, 351. 

Danville, Ky., 283. 

Dare, Virginia, 646. 

Darien, Ga,, i8q. 



Dark and Bloody Ground, 275. 
Dartmouth College, N. H., 542. 
Dates, 83, 168. 
Davenport, Iowa, 254, 261, 259, 

260. 
Davidson College, N. C, 653, 654. 
Davis Island Dam, Penn., 719. 
Davis Peak, Nev., 535. 
Davis (Perry) & Son, 780. 
Dayton, Ohio, 678, 671, 664. 
Deadwood, S. D., 7(50, 794, 793. 
Deaf & Dumb Institution, iVIich., 

405. 
Deaf-Mute College, Nat., 154. 
Dearborn, Fort, 111., 202, 218, 224. 
Dearborn Observatory, 210. 
Death Valley, Cal., 76. 
De Bardeleben Coal & Iron Co., 

38, 39, 40. 
Decatur, Ala., 40, 37, 30. 
Deep- Water Bridge, N. C, 647. 
Deep- Water Harbors, 114, 815, 
Deerfield, Mass., 339, 342. 
Deer-Lodge Valley, Mont., 514. 
Deer Park, Md., 327, 326. 
Deer Park, Mont., 512. 
De Funiak Springs, 173. 
De Jonge (Louis) & Co., 632. 
De Land, Fla., 173, 762. 
Delavi^are : history, 143 ; name, 

arms, list of goverriors, 144 ; 

descriptive, agriculture, 145 ; 

government, 146 ; national in- 
stitutions, chief cities, 147 ; 

manufactures, 148 ; map, 468. 
Delaware & Hudson Canal, 607. 
Delaware Bay, 143, 144, 145, 709. 
Delaware Breakwater, 147. 
Delaware College, 147. 
Delaware River, 718. 
Delaware State House, 143. 
Delaware Water Gap, 555, 718, 

556, 552. 
De la Warr, Lord, 142, 143. 
Del Monte, Hotel, Cal., 78. 
Denison, Texas, 824. 
Dennison Mfg. Co., 391. 
Denny, Hotel, Seattle, 876. 
Dental Mfg. Co., 759. 
Denver & Rio-Grande R. R., 112. 
Denver and the Rocky Mts., 115. 
Denver Club, 112. 
Denver, Col., 115, 113, 116, iii. 
Denver High School, 112. 
Departmental Stores, 398, 459, 689, 

762. 
De Pauw Glass Works, 246. 
De Pauw University, 238, 239, 240. 
De Pauw, W. C, Ind., 239, 246. 
Depere, Wis., 886. 
Depew, Chauncey M., 575, 616. 
De.seret, 832. 
Deseret, University, LHah, 835, 

837- 
Desert, Mount, Me., 314, 313, 311. 
Desks, 245. 

Des Moines, Iowa, 261, 260. 
Des Moines P. C, 260. 
Des Moines Rapids, 256. 
De Soto, 795, 177, 59. 165, 27, 437, 

293-. 
Detroit, 413, 414, 401. 
Detroit City Hall, 414. 
Detroit Dry Dock Co., 417. 
Detroit E.xposition Building, 407. 
Detroit, from Windsor, 413. 
Detroit House of Correction, 411. 



Detroit Lake, Minn., 423. 

Detroit Museum of Art, 413. 

Detroit P. O., 406. 

Detroit River, Mich., 405. 

Detroit-River Tunnel, 416, 417. 

Detroit Soldiers' Monument, 414. 

Detroit Y. M. C. A., 414. 

Devil's Cailon, Cal., 77. 

Devil's Lake, N. D., 657, 658, 6fo. 

Devil's Lake, Wis., 888, 890. 

Devil's Slide, Utah, 833. 

Devil's Thumb, Alaslca, 47. 

De Young, M. H., 95. 

Devoe (F. W.) & Co., 635. 

Dexter Horton & Co., 707. 

Diablo, Mount, Cal., 76, 88. 

Diamond Match Co., 685. 

Diamond Plate Glass Co., 246. 

Diamond State, 144. 

Dickinson, (A.) Co., 230. 

Dickinson College, Penn., 731. 

Diomede Islands, 46. 

Disappointment, Cape, 869, 871. 

Disciples of Christ, 288. 

Discovery of America, 5. 

Disston (Henry) & Sons, 751. 

Distances from Washington, 154. 

Distilleries, 230, 292. 

District of Coliimbia : history, 
149; descriptive, 150; Capitol, 
154 ; State, Treasury, War 
dept., 156 ; Navy, Interior, Post- 
office departments, 157 ; monu- 
ments, 160-2 ; newspapers, 164 ; 
map, 468. 

Ditson (Oliver) Co., 399. 

Docks, N. Y., 603. 

Dodge (A. M.) & Co., 623. 

Dodge Coal Storage Co., 623, 754. 

Dodge Mfg. Co., 243. 

Dogs' Home, 374. 

Doll & Richards, 361, 360. 

Dome of the Capitol, 151, 155. 

Dome Rock, Col., 110. 

Donner Lake, Cal., 76, 77. 

Dorchester, 383, 782. 

Dorflinger (C.) & Sons, 757. 

Dorr Rebellion, 764. 

Douglas-County C. H., Neb., 523. 

Douglas-County Hospital, Neb.. 

524- 
Douglas Island, Alaska, 51, 49. 
Douglas Monument, 203. 
Douglas, S. A., 20I. 
Douglas, W. & B., 141. 
Dover, Del., 147, 143. 
Dover, N. H., 54^, 546. 
Drake, Sir Francis, 69, 165, 646. 
Drew Theol. Seminary, 560. 
Drexel Industrial Institute, 734. 
Drift Mining, 87. 
Drills, 394. 
Drop-Forgings, 139. 
Drugs, 458. 
Druid-Hill Park, 332. 
Drum-Lummon Mine, 516. 
Drury College, Mo., 451. 
Dry Goods, 689, 637, 761, 227, 336, 

3Q8. 
Dubuque, Iowa, 253, 254,256, 261. 
Dudley Observatory, 595. 
Duluth, Minn., 434, 425, 426, 419, 

401, 886. 
Duluth Elevator Co., 888, 901. 
Dunkirk, N. Y., 603. 
Dunlap (R.) & Co., 638. 
Dunmore, Lake, Vt., 842. 



Bunnell Mfg. Co., 777. 
Dunnellon Co.'s Phosphate Beds, 

17?' 173- 
DuPont Statue, 162. 
Duquesne Club, 721. 
Durfee, B. M. C, High School, 

Mass., 365. 
Durfee Hall, Yale, 125. 
Durham, N. C, 648, 654. 
Durkee, E. R., & Co., 641. 
Dutch Church, Old, Tarrytovvn, 

577- 
Dwight Cotton Mills, 386. 
Dwight (John) & Co., 640. 
Dwight, Skinner & Co., 137. 
Dyestuffs, 137. 
Dynamite gun, 19. 

Eads Bridge, 451, 750. 

Eads Jetties, La., 294,299. 

Eagle, American, 11. 

Eagle Cliff, N. H., 53S. 

Eagle Lake, Cal., 77. 

Eagle Lake, Me., 313. 

Eagle Pass, Texas, 818. 

Earl Crematory, Troy, 590. 

Earle (T. K.) Mfg. Co., 388. 

Earth-Moving, 682. 

Eastern Penitentiary, Penn., 727. 

Eastern Shore, Md., 326, 324. 

Eastern Shore of Va., 854, 856. 

Eastman, Ga., 190. 

Eastman, Hotel, Ark., 63. 

Easton, Eldridge & Co., 100, 99. 

Easton, Penn., 730, 738, 735. 

Eastport, Me., 318. 

East-River Bridge, N. Y., 588, 

607, 148. 
East Rock, Conn., 120, 121. 
East Room, White House, 152. 
East Seattle, Wash., 875. 
East Tennessee, 798, 797. 
East-Tennessee, Va. & Ga. R. R., 

8og, 806, 41, 189, 190. 
Eaton, Cole & Burnham Co., 140. 
Ecclesiastical Art, 636. 
Echo Bridge, 393. 
Echo Canon, Utah, 833, 832. 
Echo Lake, N. H., 538. 
Eckstein White Lead Co., 687. 
Eddy, N. M., 574. 
Eddystone Mfg. Co., 760. 
Eden Park, Bridge, Cin., 667. 
Edgar Thomson Steel Works, 748. 
Edgartown, Mass., 347. 
Edge Moor Bridge Works, 148, 

607, 7^0, 529. 
Education in \J. S., 21. 
Education of Deaf and Dumb, 

123, 154- 
Edward, Fort, N. Y., 577. 
Eggs, 14. 
Egypt, 111., 204. 
Eighth Reg't Armory, 581. 
El Capitan, Cal., 74. 
El Dorado, 71,73. 
El Dorado Canon, Nev., 533. 
Electors, 16. 

Electrical Apparatus, 379. 
Electric Lighting, 691. 
Electric Springs, Ark., 64. 
Electric Street Railway, 379. 
Electro-Plated Ware, 380. 
Elevators, 392, 433, 900. 
Elevators, Buffalo, 608. 
Elk Mts., Col., 104. 
EUensburgh, Wash., 868. 



INDEX. 

Ellis Island, 25, 602. 

Elmira, N. Y., 603. 

Elmira Reformatory, N. Y., 592. 

El-Paso Cathedral, 812. 

El Paso de Robles, 89. 

El Paso, Texas, 813, 825. 

Embargo, 6. 

Emery, 653. 

Emery Candle Co., 691. 

Emery Wheels, 140. 

Emigrant Team, Idaho, 194. 

Emory College, Ga., 187. 

Empire State, 582. 

Empire State of the South, 179. 

Emporia Normal School, 271. 

Engineers, Battalion of, 600. 

Engineer School of Application, 
600. 

Engines and Boilers, 338. 

English High & Latin School, Bos- 
ton, 356, 357. 

Engraving, 628, 630. 

Engraving and Printing, Bureau 
of, 158. 

Enoch- Pratt Free Library, 331, 

329- . „. 
Enquirer^ Cin., (31^^. 
Enterprise Mfg. Co., 753. 
Ephrata, Penn., 735. 
Epileptic Hospital, 351. 
E Pluribus L^num, 11. 
Episcopal Hospital, Phila., 725. 
Episcopal Theol. School, 355. 
Equality State, 904. 
Equitable Building, St. Louis, 454. 
Equitable Life-Assurance Society, 

6i7i 37<^ 
Equitable Mortgage Co., 614. 
Erie Canal, 604. 
Erie-Canal Locks, 636. 
Erie Central School, Penn., 731. 
Erie, Lake, 666, 667, 661. 
Erie, Penn., 739, 714, 727. 
Erie Triangle, Penn., 719. 
Escanaba, Mich., 410. 
Eskimos, 46, 50. 
Essex, Col. Thomas, 66. 
Estes Park, Col., 109, iii. 
Estey Organ Co., 848. 
Eureka, Cal., 97. 
Eureka Springs, Ark., 64. 
Evanston, 111., 209. 
Evanston, Wy.,908. 
Evansville, C. H., 235. 
Evansville, Ind., 238. 
Evansville P. O., 235. 
Evening Post, N. Y., 625. 
Evening Star Building, D. C, 164. 
Everglade State, 167. 
Everglades, The, Fla., 170, 166. 
Ewart Detachable Link-Belt, 754. 
Executive Mansion, 152. 
Executive Mansion, Harrisburg, 

718. 
Exeter, N. H., 537, 542, 543. 
Exports, 17. 

Exposition Building, Cin., 675. 
Exposition, Milwaukee, 894. 
Express, Buffalo, 628. 
Express Offices, 620. 
Eye-Glasses, 637. 

Faience, 675, 

Fairbanks, Erastus, 848, 842. 
Fairbanks family, 847, 846. 
Fairbanks, Horace, 842, 846. 
Fairbanks, Thaddeus, 847, 846. 



919 

Fairfax Court House, Va., 853, 

852. 
Fair Grounds, St. Louis, 450. 
Fairmount College, Wichita, 265. 
Fairmount Park, Phila., 737. 
Fairmount Water-Works, Phila., 

Fall River City Hall, 347. 

Fall River, Mass., 374, 347, 357. 

Fall River P. O., 347. 

Falls of Minnehaha, Minn., 423. 

Falls of the Ohio, 277. 

Falls View, Mich. Cent. R. R., 

587- 

Fan Blower, 381. 

Faneuil Hall, Boston, 340, 343. 

Farallones, Cal., 91, 78. 

Fargo, N. D., 656, 659, 660. 

Faribault, Minn., 426, 428. 

Farm and Fireside, 675, 676. 

Farm and Home, ■yj'2. 

Farmers' Tobacco Warehouse. 
280. 

Farming in Arkansas, 61. 

Farming in the L^. S., 13. 

Farmington River, 121. 

Farm Mortgages, 614. 

Farm Scene, Indiana, 234. 

Farm Wagons, 289. 

Farragut Statues, 161, 162, 576. 

Fay {]. A.) & Co., 686. 

Federal Courts, 16. 

Feeble-minded children, 207. 

Fenians, 582, 841. 

Fernandina, Fla., 176, 175, 188. 

Ferry at Shoshone Falls, 197. 

Ferry, D. M., & Co., 406. 

Fertilizers, 400, 785, 787. 

Fessenden, Wm. Pitt, 311. 

Fidelity Ins. Safe-Deposit Co., 
745- 

Field (Albert) Tack Co., 395. 

Field (Marshall) & Co., 227. 

Fifth-Avenue Hotel, 620, 621. 

Figs, 83. 

Filing Cabinets, 684. 

Finances of N. Y., 609. 

Finances of the Union, 20. 

Findlay, Ohio, 670, 668. 

Fine Arts, Academy of, Phila., 

^734, 730- 

Finns, 427. 

Fire Dances, N. M., 574. 

Fire-Insurance, N. Y., 618 

Firelands, Ohio, 662, 664. 

Fireman's Fund Insurance Co., 98. 

First Baptist Church, Providence, 
767. 

First House, Lincoln, 522. 

First National Bank : Birming- 
ham, 42 ; Chicago, 222 ; Cin., 
679 ; Concord, 544 ; Denver, 114, 
114 3 Detroit, 415 ; Helena, 520 ; 
Little Rock, 66; Minneapolis, 
434; New York, 611; Phila., 
744 ; Portland (Ore.), 706. 

First Passenger Coach on B. & O. 
R. R., 324. 

First Reg't Armory, Chicago, 213. 

First Reg't Armory, Phila., 717. 

First Reg't Armory, Portland, 
Ore., 706. 

Fish Commission, 354. 

Fisheries, 365. 

Fisk (D. B.) & Co., 227. 

Fisk University, Tenn., 803, 804. 

Fitchburg Library, 373. 



920 



KIA'G'S ITAXDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Five Nations, 117, 575. 

Fixtures, 634. 

Flags, 8. 

Flags of Signal Service, 21. 

Flannels, ^87. 

Flathead Lake, Mont., 518, 513. 

Flattery, Cape, 866, 870, 875. 

Fleischmann & Co., 690. 

Fletcher, Charles, 772. 

Florence, Ala., 39. 

Florence, Col., iii. 

Florence, Idaho, 199 

Florence Land, Mining & Mfg. 
Co., 40. 

Florida : history, 165 ; name, 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 167 ; climate, 170; geology, 
172 ; government, education, 
17;^ ; national works, 174 ; chief 
cities, 175 ; railroads, steam- 
boats, 176 ; map, 469. 

Florida Agric. College, 170, 174. 

Florida Bicycle A, 170. 

Florida Fruits, 166. 

Florida Keys, 168. 

Florida State House, 165, 173. 

Florida University, 174. 

Flour-Manufacturing, 430, 432. 

Flour-Mill Machinerj', 244. 

Fobes, Hay ward & Co., 384. 

Folsom, Cal, 91. 

Fond du Lac, Wis., 899. 

Food-Preparations, 245, 639, 640. 

Foot-hills, Col., 103. 

Forbes Lithograph Mfg. Co., 362, 
361. 

Forefathers' Monument, 11, 341. 

Foreign-Mission Movement, 364. 

Forest Park, St. Louis, 446. 

Forests, Ark., 6i. 

Forsyth, James Bennett, 382. 

Fort-Bragg Redwood Co., 90. 

Fort Smith, Ark., 62, 64, 65. 

Fort Wayne, P. O., 235. 

Fort Worth, Texas, 815, 824. 

Foulweather, Cape, Ore., 704. 

Fountain, Savannah, 186. 

Fountain Spring House, Wis., 891. 

Four Courts, St. Louis, 446. 

Fourth Nat. Bank, 612. 

Fox Lake, 111., 205. 

Fox River, Wis., 892, 886. 

Franconia Notch, N. H., 539. 

Frankford Arsenal, Penn., 728. 

Frankfort, Ky., 283, 286. 

Franklin, Benjamin, 5. 

Franklin Co. C. H., Ohio, 666. 

Franklin Institute, Phila., 734. 

Franklin Park, Boston, 349. 

Franklin's, Benjamin, Grave, 710. 

Franklin, State of, 796. 

Frederick, Md., 322, 323, 327, 334. 

Fredericksburg, Va., 851. 

Freedom, Statue of, 161, 155. 

Free Public Forest, 349. 

Freezers, 548. 

Fremont, 53, 71, 831, 835, 531. 

Fremont Pass, Col., 104, 113. 

French Broad River, 798, 799, 650, 
649. 

French Canadians, 366. 

French Market, N. O., 298. 

Frick (H. C.) Coke Co., 724. 

Friedensville, Penn., 725, 746. 

Friends' Boarding School, 770. 

Frontenac, Minn., 423. 

Front Range Col., 103, 105, 905. 



Fruit of the Loom, 777. 

Fruits, 83. 

Fryeburg, Me., 312, 314. 

Fuca, Juan de, 865. 

Fuca, Strait of, 869, 865, 875. 

Fuller & Warren Co., 644, 902. 

Fundamental Constitutions, 746, 

782. 
Furniture, 400, 684. 
Furs, 638, 689, 448. 

Gadsden Purchase, 54. 
Gage-County C. H., Neb., 528. 
Gainesville, Fla., 174, 172. 
Galena, 111., 206, 218. 
Gallatin Valley, Mont., 512. 
Gallaudet, Dr. T. H., 123. 
Gait House, Louisville, 286. 
Galveston, 822, 813, 815. 
Galveston Beach, 818. 
Galveston City Hall, 825. 
Galveston, Cotton Exchange, 819. 
Galveston News, 826. 
Galveston P. O., 819. 
Garden City, Kan., 266. 
Garden City, N. Y., 597, 601. 
Garden of the Gods, 108, 106. 
Garden State, 551. 
Garfield Beach, Utah, 833, 834, 835. 
Garfield Monuments, 674, 162. 
Garrett Biblical Institute, 209, 204. 
Garrison (A.) Foundry Co., 752. 
Gas and Electric Lights, 634. 
Gas-Coal, 723. 
Gasconade River, Mo., 447. 
Gasoline Burners, 755. 
Gaston, Fort, Cal., 92. ^ 
Gate of the Mountairl?, Mont., 

513. 512- 
Gatling Guns, 133. 
Gayarr^ Place, N. O., 307. 
Gay Head, Mass., 347. 
Gen. Theol. Sem., 596. 
Genesee Falls, N. v., 587, 589. 
Genesee River, N. Y., 585. 
Geneva Lake, Wis., 800. 
George, Lake, N. Y., 578,584, 577. 
Georgetown, D. C, 152. 
Georgetown, S. C, 784, 788, 782. 
Georgetown, Texas, 817. 
Georgetown University, D. C, 

153, 154- 

Georgia : History, 177 ; name, 
arms, list of governors, geo- 
graphy, 179 ; climate, farming, 
182 ; geology, minerals, 183 ; 
government, 185 ; national in- 
stitutions, newspapers, 186; edu- 
cation, 187 ; chief cities, 188 ; 
railroads, igo ; finances, 191 ; 
manufactures, 102 ; map, 470. 

Georgia-Ala. Investment & De- 
velopment Co., 191. 

Georgia Capitol, 177, 185. 

Georgia Marble Co., 184. 

Ga. Mining, Mfg. & Investment 
Co., 183. 

German Opera House, 224. 

Gethsemane Abbey, 288. 

Gettysburg Monuments, 715. 

Gettysburg, Penn., 713. 

Geysers, Cal., 89. 

Geysers, Wyo., 909, 911. 

Giant of the Valley, 582. 

Giant Spring, Mont., 513. 

Giants' Cave, LItah, 833, 835. 

Giant Yucca, Ariz., 55. 



Gibbon Falls, Wyo., 909. 
Gibson, Fort, I. T., 248. 
Gifford, Ellen M., Home for Cats 

and Dogs, 374. 
Gila Valley, Ariz., 56, 55, 57, 14. 
Gilpin, Wm., 116. 
Gilsey House, N. Y., 621. 
Ginseng, 652, 881. 
Girard-Ave. Bridge, 716. 
Girard College, Phila., 731, 733. 
Girard Life-insurance, Annuity & 

Trust Co., 745. 
Girls' Industrial College, Miss., 

441. 
Glacier Canon, 534. 
Glaciers, Alaska, 49, 47, 48. 
Glass, 246, 564, 757, 746, 191. 
Glassboro, N. J., 565. 
Glass-Sand, 348. 
Glendive, Mont., 519. 
Glen-Ellis Falls, N. H., 541. 
Glens Falls, N. Y., 587. 
Glenwood Springs, Col., 108, 113, 

III. 
Globe Co., The, 684. 
Gloucester, Mass., 373, 348, 352, 

365, 
Goat Island, N. Y., 586. 
Godkin, E. L., 625. 
Gogebic Range, Wis., 894, 410. 
Golden Gate, 78, 87, 95. 
Golden-Gate Park, Cal., 97, 96, 72. 
Golden State, 73. 
Gold Mining, Cal., 86. 
Goldsborough, N. C, 648, 654, 653. 
Goose Lake, Cal., 77. 
Gopher State, 421. 
Gorges, Fort, Me., 316. 
Gorham Mfg. Co., 775, 635. 
Gorham, N. H., 548. 
Government E5uilding, Omaha, 

528. 
Government Mill, Dalton, 389. 
Government of U. S., 16. 
Government Printing Office, 158. 
Government Street, Mobile, 30, 

35- 
Governor s Island, N. Y., 600, 603. 
Gosnold, 340. 

Grace Church, Anniston, 37. 
Grain Drills, 683. 
Granby, Conn., 122. 
Grand Army of the Republic, 208. 
Grand Caiion of the Arkansas, 

103, 106, 116. 
Grand Canon of the Colorado, 53, 

55, 56, 834, 835. 
Grand Caiion of the Rio Grande, 

814. 
Grand Central Station, 619. 
Grand Forks, N. D., 656, 660, 659. 
Grand Island, Neb., 525, 526. 
Grand Opera House, Pueblo, 116. 
Grand Prairie, 111., 204. 
Grand Rapids City Hall, 405. 
Grand Rapids, Mich., 414, 418. 
Grand Rapids, Soldiers' Home, 

409. 
Grand River, 835, 106. 
Grand River Canon, 105. 
Granite, 315, 348, 427, 548. 
Granite Mountain, Mont., 516. 
Granite State, N. H., 538. 
Grant, Birthplace of U. S., 662. 
Grant, James B., 114. 
Grant Monument, 17. 
Grant Statue, Leavenworth, 264. 



Grape-Fruit, 172. 

GrapeSj 84, 652. 

Grass Crop, 14. 

Grass Valley, Cal., 97. 

Gray's Harbor, 865, 86g. 

Gray's Peak, Col., 102, 103, 104. 

Great Basin, 12, 701, 834, 733. 

Great Falls Mfg. Co., 546. 

Great Falls, Md., 326. 

Great Falls, Mont., 514, 511, 509, 

Great Falls, N. H., 546. 

Great Northern Railway, 435, 

436, 660, 878. 
Great Pacific Glacier, 47. 
Great Plains, 12, 13, 103, 817, 905. 
Great Red Pipestone Quarry, 427. 
Great Salt Lake, 831, 832,833, 834, 

837, 12. 
Great Smoky Mts., 798, 806, 649. 
Great Valley, Cal., 77, 73, 81. 
Great Western Iron & Steel Co., 

874. 
Greek Church, 50, 49, 45. 
Green Bay, Wis., 886, 892. 
Greenbrier White Sulphur 

Springs, W. Va., 881. 
Greenhorn Range, Col., 104. 
Green Lake, CoT., 107. 
Green Lake, Wis., 890. 
Greenleaf, Col. C. H., 375, 541. 
Green-Mountain Boys, 839. 
Green-Mountain State, 841. 
Green Mts., Vt., 840, 842. 
Green River, L^tah, 837, 835. 
Green Wood Cemetery, N. Y., 603, 

599- 
Greenwood Lake, N. J., 553, 557. 
Greer County, 695. 
Greylock, Mass., 345, 346. 
Grimes, James W., 253. 
Grinding Machines, 140. 
Grindstones, 407, 669. 
Grinnell Sensitive Automatic 

Sprinkler, 778. 
Groceries, 639, 229. 
Groton, Conn., 120. 
Guadalupe Mts., 817. 
Guaranty, Loan Building, 430. 
Gumbel (S.) & Co., 301. 
Gun- Factory, N. Y., 600. 
Gunnison River, Col., 105. 
Gunpowder, 133, 148. 
Gun-steel, 748.' 
Gunther's (C. G.) Sons, 638. 
Gurley, W. & L. E., 637. 
Guthrie, Okla., 693, 694. 
Gypsum Hills, Kan., 265, 266. 

Haddam, Conn. River, 121, 122. 
Hadley, Mass., iig. 
Hagerstown, Md., 335. 
Hahn mann Med. College, 739. 
Haines, Alaska, 48. 
Half Dome, Cal., 74. 
Halifax River, Fla., 176. 
Hall's Safe & Lock Co., 683. 
Hamburg, S. C, 783, 788. 
Hamilton-Brown Shoe Co., 459. 
Hamilton College, \. Y., 595. 
Hamilton-Co. c! H., Ohio, 665. 
Hamilton, Mount, Cal., 93, 76. 
Hampton Roads, Va., 856, 858. 
Hampton, St. John's, 852, 853. 
Hannibal, Mo., 454. 
Hanover Nat. Bank, 6ij. 
Haraszthy (Arpad; & Co., 85, 84. 



INDEX. 

Hardware, 226. 
Harness-making, 547. 
Harney, Lake, 700. 
Harney Valley, Ore., 701. 
Harper & Brothers, 629. 
Harper Hospital, Detroit. 411. 
Harper's Ferry, 855, 326, 327, 879, 

880, 882, 884. 
Harriman, Tenn., 799, 8oi. 
Harrisburg, Penn., 726,738. 
Harrison, Benjamin, 853. 
Harrison Bros. & Co., 760. 
Harrison-Co. C. H., Tex., 823. 
Harrodsburg, Ky., 286. 
Hartford, 129, 130. 
Hartford Asylum, Conn., 123. 
Hartford County C. H., 132. 
Hartford Courani, 127, 128. 
Hartford Fire Insurance Co., 130. 
Hartford High School, 127. 
Hartford Steam Boiler Ins. Co., 

132. 
Hartford Theol. Sem., 126. 
Hartshorn Shade Rollers, 566. 
Harvard Anne.x, 355. 
Harvard Bridge, Mass., 344, 393. 
Harvard University, 354, 353, 355, 

357- 
Harvesting Machines, 643. 
Haseltine Art Galleries, 762. 
Haskell Institute, Kan., 268. 
Hastings College, 529. 
Hastings Hall, Cambridge, 368. 
Hats, 337, 338, 339, 761. 
Haverford College, Perm., 731. 
Haverhill, Mass., 374, 342, 346. 
Havre de Grace Bridge, 323. 
Hawkeye State, 255. 
Hawk's Nest, W. Va., 883. 
Hawthorne's Birthplace, 342. 
Hay, 14. 

Hayden, Mount, 520. 
Hebrews, 368. 

Heights of Land, Minn., 422. 
Helderberg Mts., 584. 
Helena, Ark., 67. 
Helena High School, 515. 
Helena, Mont., 520, 518. 
Hells Half Acre, Ark., 60. 
Henderson Bridge, 291. 
Henlopen Cape, Del., 144, 145, 147. 
Hennepin, 202. 
Henry Clay Monument, 274. 
Henry Lake, Idaho, 196. 
Henry, Patrick, 26. 
Herald, New York, 626. 
Herd of Bison, 248. 
Hermitage, The, Tenn., 797. 
Herreshoff Works, 777. 
Hetch-Hetchy Valley, 82, 74. 
Heywood Bros. & Co., 395. 
Hiawassee River, 709. 
Hibbard, Spencer, Bartlett & Co., 

226. 
Hickory-Nut Gap, N. C, 647. 
High Bridge, N. Y., 608, 588. 
Highgate Springs, Vt., 843. 
High Hills of Santee, 7S4. 
Highland Lights, Navesink, 551, 

554- 
Highland .Springs, 89. 
Highlands of Navesink, N. J., 

554- 
Highlands, The, 556, 552, 584, 585. 
High School, Mobile, 32. 
High School, Montgomery, 42. 
Hill, Fontaine & Co., 808, 8x0. 



921 

Hill (James R.) Harness Co., 547. 
Hill, Nathaniel P., 114. 
Hill (B. H.) Statue, igo. 
Hillsdale College, 411. 
Hippopotamus Rock, 905. 
Hiram College, Ohio. 672, 673. 
Historical Map, 10. 
Hitchcock Memorial Hospital, 543. 
Hoboken, N. J., 560, 561. 
Hoffman, Mount, Cal., 74. 
Hog and Hominy State, 797. 
Hoisting Machines, 680. 
Hollenden, Hotel, Cleveland, 677. 
Holly Springs, Miss., 442. 
Holston River, 798, 786, 799, 801. 
Holy Cross, Mt. of the, 104. 
Holyoke, City Hall, 364. 
Holyoke, Mass,, 389. 
Holyoke, Mt., Mass., 345, 346. 
Homestake Mines, 791. . 

Homestead Steel Works, 749. 
Homosassa River, Fla., 169. 
Honey, 86. 

Honey Lake, Cal., 77. 
Hood, Mount, Ore., 699, 700, 13. 
Hood's Canal, Wash., 869. 
Hoopa Valley, Cal., 92. 
Hoopes & Townsend, 753. 
Hoosac Tunnel, Mass., 346, 368, 

369- 
Hoosier State, 234, 
Hoosier Stone Co., Ind., 240. 
Hopatcong Lake, N. J., 553, 552. 
Hope College, Mich., 413. 
Hops, 893, 872. 
Horses, 281. 
Horse-Nails, 306. 
Horse-Plains, Mont., 511. 
Horse-Shoe Curve, 713, 740. 
Horse-Shoes, 778. 
Horsford, Prof. E. N., 340. 
Horticultural Hall, Phila., 736. 
Hosiery, 639. 
Hotchkiss Guns, 141. 
Hotel Del Monte, Cal., 78. 
Hotel Eastman, Ark., 63, 64. 
Hotel .Metropole, Col., 113. 
Hotel Rennert, Baltimore, 334. 
Hot Lake, Ore., 704. 
Hot Springs, Ark., 63. 
Hot Springs, S. D., 792. 
Houghton, Mich., 411. 
Housatonic River, 121. 
Houser Building, St. Louis, 453. 
Houser, Daniel M., 452,453. 
Houston & Texas Central R. R., 

827, 819, 817, 822, 82S. 
Houston, P. O., 824. 
Houston, Gen., 811, 812, 813. 
Houston, Texas., 823, 824, 828.* 
Hovenweep, Col., 106. 
Howard College, Ala., 32, 34. 
Howard Memorial Library, 308. 
Howard University, D. C, 153. 
Howe's Cave, N. Y., 584. 
Hudnut Co., 245. 
Hudson, Henry, 576, 549, 700. 
Hudson Highlands, N. Y., 579. 
Hudson, N. Y., 603. 
Hudson River, 585, 578, 599, 590. 
Hughes, Simon P., 68. 
Huguenots, 781. 
Hull, Mass., 344. 
Humboldt Bay, Cal., 78. 
Humboldt Mts., 534. 
Humboldt River, Neva., 531, 534, 
Humboldt statue, 445. 



922 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Humboldt Valley, Nev., 534. 
Humphreys, L. H., 772. 
Huntsville, Ala., 40. 
Huron, Lake, 403. 
Huron, Port, Mich., 414, 416. 
Huron, S. D., 794. 
Hurst, Purnell & Co., 336. 
Hussey & Co., C. G., 751. 
Hutchinson, Kan., 269, 272. 
Hyde Park, Vt.,846. 
Hydraulic machinery, 141. 
Hydraulic mining, 87, 184, 535. 
Hygeia Hotel, Va., 858. 

Idaho : history, name, 103 ; arms, 
list of governors, descriptive, 
194 ; climate, agriculture, min- 
ing, 197, government, 198 ; map, 
471. 

Idaho Springs, Col., 108, iii. 

Iliamna, Alaska, 48. 

Illinois : history, 201 ; name, 
arms, list of governors, 203 ; 
descriptive, 204 ; climate, farm- 
products, 205 ; minerals, 206 ; 
government, charities and cor- 
rections, 207 ; national institu- 
tions, education, 208 ; libraries, 
art, 210 ; newspapers, 211 ; chief 
cities, 212 ; railways, 218 ; finan- 
ces, 222 ; manufactories, 223 ; 
map, 472. 

Illinois & Michigan Canal, 221. 

Illinois Central R. R., 218. 

Illinois College, 210. 

Illinois Normal University, 209. 

Illinois River, 204. 

Illinois Staats-Zcitung^ 211. 

Illinois Steel Co., 223. 

111. Trust and Savings Bank, 222. 

Immigrants, 24, 601. 

Immigration Building, 25. 

Incline, Elm-Street, Cin., 677. 

Independence Bell, Phila., 711. 

Independence, Fort, 351, 353. 

Indejaendence Hall, Penn.", 714, 
711. 

Independence Hospital, 257. 

Indepcndenty T/u-, N. Y., 625. 

Indiana: history, 233 ; name, 234; 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 235 ; climate, agriculture, 
236 ; minerals, chief cities, 237 ; 
government, charities and cor- 
rections, education, 238 ; news- 
papers, national institutions, 
241 ; railroads, finance, manu- 
factures, 242 ; map, 473. 

Indiana Limestone, 240. 

Indiana National Bank, 242. 

Indianapolis Cabinet Co., 245. 

Indianapolis Court-House, 235. 

Indianapolis, Ind., 237, 238, 239, 
241, 244. 

Indianapolis Insane Hospital, 236. 

Indianapolis Ncivsy 241. 

Indianapolis Railway Station, 240. 

Indianapolis Soldiers' Monument, 
234- 

Indiana Reformatory, 236. 

Indiana University, 239, 238. 

Indian Industrial School, 696. 

Indian Police, 19. 

Indian River, Alaska, 47. 

Indian River, Fla., 166,167, 176- 

Indian Soldiers, 17. 

Indian Springs, Ark., 64, 



Indian Territory : history, 247 ; 
descriptive, climate, 248 • gov- 
ernment, education, 249 ; Chero- 
kees, 250 ; Chickasaws, Creeks, 
251 ; Choctaws, Seminoles, 252 ; 
map, 502. 

Indian Training School, Penn., 
729. 

Indian University, Muscogee, 251. 

Indian village, Alaska, 50. 

Indio, Cal., 100. 

Industrial Education, 596. 

Infantry School, Kan., 270. 

Inman (S. M.) & Co., 192. 

Innuits, 46. 

Insane and Blind Asylum, Ind. T., 
251. 

Inscription Rock, 58. 

Insurance, 130, 745, 377, 615. 

Interior Department, 157. 

Interior Elevators, 433. 

International Bridge, El Paso, 825. 

International Bridge, N. Y., 607. 

International Hotel, Niagara 
Falls, 587. 

Inyan Kara, 900. 

Inyo Range, Cal., 76, 77. 

Iowa : history, 253 ; name, arms, 
list of governors, descriptive, 
255 ; farming, 257 ; minerals, 
government, education, 250 ; 
manufactures, 260 ; railroads, 
chief cities, 261 ; finances, 262 ; 
map, 474. 

Iowa Agric. College, 259. 

Iowa College, 259, 260. 

lowas, 253. 

Iron, 32, 37, 680, 721, 874. 

Iron Castings, 775. 

Iron Furnace, Tallapoosa, 191. 

Iron Mountain, Mo., 445, 449, 447. 

Iron-Mountain State, 446. 

Iron-Ore mining, 409. 

Iron-Ore vessel, 680. 

Iron Pier, Coney Island, 591. 

Iroquois, 577. 

Irrigation, 109, 511, 535, 574, 836, 
81, 100. 

Irving's Home, 577. 

Isle of Peace, 766. 

Isle Royale, Mich., 411. 

Isles of Shoals, N. H., 540, 541. 

Itasca, Lake, 420, 422. 

Ithaca, N. Y., 604. 

Ivy Mill, Penn., 742. 

Jackson, Andrew, 797, 796. 

Jackson, Gen. W. H., 800. 

Jackson, Miss., 442. 

Jackson Monument, 161. 

Jackson Sanatorium, 622. 

Jackson, Sheldon, 49. 

Jackson Square, 296. 

Jackson, Tenn., 804. 

Jacksonville, Blind Asylum, 207. 

Jacksonville, Fla., 175, 166, 171. 

Jacksonville, ill., 210. 

Jacksonville, Inst, for the Deaf 
and Dumb, 214. 

Jacksonville, Sub-Tropical Ex- 
position, 171. 

James R. Hill Harness Co., 547. 

James River, S. D., 790, 791, 794. 

James River, Va., 856. 

Jamestown Church, 850, 853. 

Jamestown, N. D., 659. 

Jasper, 427, 792. 



Jayhawker State, 265. 
Jefferson Barracks, Mo., 450. 
Jefferson City, Mo., 445. 
Jefferson, Fort, Fla., 175, 166. 
Jefferson Medical College, 733. 
Jefferson's Home, 852, 855. 
Jeffersonville, Ind., 241. 
Jeffrey Mfg. Co., 692. 
Jekyl Island, Ga., 180. 
Jersey Blues, N. J., ^50. 
Jersey City, N. J., 564, 560, 556. 
Jesuit College, N. O., 310. 
Jetties, La., 299. 
Jewell Belting Co., 139. 
Jewelry, 633, 460. 
Jewish Orphan Asylum, 668. 
John B. Stetson University, 173, 

174. 
John C. Green, School of Science, 

557- 
John Crouse Memorial College, 

596. 
Johns-Hopkins Hospital, 330. 
Johnny App'eseed. 662. 
Johns-Hopkins University, 329, 

330- 
Johnstown, Penn., 721, 739, 747. 
Joliet, 253, 443. 
Joliet, 111., 207, 218. 
Jones, Augustine, 770. 
Jones, Richard M., 732. 
Joplin, Mo., 449. 
Jordan, Marsh & Co., 398. 
Jornada del Muerto, 570. 
Judges' Cave, Conn., 118. 
Judith Basin, Mont., 512. 
Juneau, Alaska, 52, 40, 50, 51. 
Juneau Statue, 893, 895. 
Juniata River, Penn., 712, 718, 719. 
Junipero Serra, 69. 
Justice, Department of, 158. 

Kadiak, Alaska, 45, 49, 51. 

Kaibab Plateau, Ariz., 55. 

Kalamazoo College, 413. 

Kalamazoo, Mich., 406, 414, 415. 

Kalamazoo Opera House, 413. 

Kalamazoo Y. M. C. A., 405. 

Kalispel Country, Mont., 512. 

Kanawha Falls, W. Va., 880. 

Kanawha River, W. Va., 881, 
883. 

Kanawha, State of, S80. 

Kaniag Natives, 45. 

Kankakee, 111., 207. 

Kansas : history, 263 ; name, 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 265 ; climate, farm-pro- 
ducts, 266 ; geology, 268 ; gov- 
ernment, education, 269 ; na- 
tional institutions, 270 ; chief 
cities, 271 ; railways, manufac- 
tures, 272 ; map 475. 

Kansas City Board of Trade, 
460. 

Kansas City C. H., 448. 

Kansas City, Kan., 271. 

Kansas City, Mo., 453. 

Kansas-City Smelting and Refin- 
ing Works, 269. 

Kansas-City Times., 452. 

Kansas-City L^nion Stock- Yards, 
267. 

Kansas-Nebraska Act, 264. 

Kansas River, 116, 266. 

Kansas Stock-Ranges, 267. 

Kaskaskia, 111., 202, 204. 



Katahdin, Mount, Me., 313. 

Kauterskill Falls, 582. 

Kearney City Hall, 523. 

Kearney, Xeb., 526, 529. 

Kearny Monument, 552. 

Kearsarge Pass, Cal., 74. 

Kelley's Island, Ohio, 666, 667, 
668. 

Kellogg (A. N.) Newspaper Co., 
211. 

Kennesaw Mt., Ga., 180. 

Kentucky : history, 27; ; name, 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 275 ; climate, farming, 279; 
minerals, 282 ; government, ed- 
ucation, 283 ; population, chief 
cities, 285 ; railroads, 286 ; 
finances, 287 ; religion, manu- 
factures, 288 ; map, 476. 

Kentucky & Ind. Bridge, 278. 

Kentuck}', Bank of, 287. 

Kentucky-River Bridge, 201. 

Kentucky-River High Bridge, 
Ky., 277. 

Ky. University, 281, 283. 

Ky. Wagon Mfg. Co.'s Works, 
289. 

Kenyon College, Gambler, 672. 

Keogh, Fort, Mont., 517. 

Keokuk, Iowa, 261. 

Kern Lake, Cal., 77. 

Kern-River Caiion, 74. 

Keuka Lake, N. Y., 585. 

Keweenaw Point, Mich., 409, 410. 

Keys, 168. 

Keystone Bridge Co., 750, 336, 

453. 5291 6o8< 74°- 
Keystone State, 716. 
Key West, Fla., 168, 170, 174, 175. 
Key West, Light House, 173. 
Kickapoos, Okla., 694. 
Kid and Morocco, 750. 
Kidder, Peabody & Ca., 376. 
Kilbourne & Jacobs Mfg. Co., 682. 
Killington Peak, Vt., 841, 842. 
Kimball House, Atlanta, 192. 
Kingan & Co., Limited, 244. 
King-Co., C. H., Wash., 875. 
King (Henry W.) & Co., 227. 
King Island, Bering Sea, 46. 
King's Chapel, Boston, 369. 
Kingsley, J. E., 737. 
King's Mountain, N. C, 647. 
King's Ranche, 828. 
King's River, Cal., 77. 
Kingston. N. V., 118, 579, 604. 
Kinzua Viaduct, Penn., 716. 
Kiowas, 695. 

Kirk (James S.) & Co., 224. 
Kirkland, Wash., 874. 
Kirk's Soaps, 111., 224. 
Kishacoquillas Valley, 717. 
Kitchen-Ware, 692. 
Kittatinny Mountain, 552, 556, 

717, 719- 
Kittery, Me., ^17, 540. 
Kittitas Valley, Wash., 868. 
Klamath Lakes, Ore., 701. 
Knapp, Joseph P., 630. 
Knight, B. B. & R., 777. 
Knives, 304. 

Knowlton (Wm.") & Sons, 387. 
Knox, John Jay, X. Y., 611. 
Knoxville, Tenn., 805, 797, 799, 

801, 802, S03, 809. 
Kokomo, Ind., 246, 
Kuskokwim Raver, 48, 49, 50, 51. 



INDEX, 

Labor, Department of, 158. 
Lachman (S.) & Co., 85. 
Lackawanna River, 719. 
La Crosse, 899. 
La Crosse Library, 897. 
Ladd & Tilton's Bank, 706. 
Ladd, Herbert W. , 770, 766. 
Ladd Observatory, Providence, 

770. 
Ladies' Fine Stationery, 390. 
Ladies' Home Companioti, 676. 
Lafayette College, Penn., 730. 
Lafayette, Ind., 233, 234, 238, 239. 
Lafayette Monument, 162, 161. 
Lafayette, Mount, N. H., 539. 
Lake Borgne, 299. 
Lake Park, Utah, 835. 
Lake Pend 'Oreilles, Idaho, 195. 
Lakeport, Cal., 77. 
Lake-St. -Clair Canal, 404. 
Lake St. -Clair, Mich.. 405. 
Lakewood, N. J., 555. 
Lalance & Grosjean Mfg. Co., 642. 
Lamb. J. & R., 636. 
Lamson Consol. Store Service 

Co., 396. 
Lamp Chimneys, 757. 
Lamps, 134, 138. 
Lancaster, Penn., 738. 
Land, Log & Lumber Co., 88g. 
Land of the Dakotas, 656. 
Landreth, (David) & Sons, 758. 
Land of Steady Habits, 120. 
Land of Sunshine, 569. 
Lane, Joseph, 697, 6g8. 
Lane's Trail, 264. 
Lane Theol. Semi., 674. 
Lansing, Mich., 411, 414. 
Lansing Reform School, 410. 
La Pointe, Wis., 886, 892. 
i-a-Salle, 201, 202, 203, 437, 443, 

793. 886. 
Las Cruces, N. M., 574, 572. 
Lassen's Peak, Cal., 76. 
Las Vegas Hot Springs, N. M., 

Las Vegas, N. M., 572, 573, 574. 

Law Publishers, 430. 

Lawrence, Kan., 270, 271. 

Lawrence, Mass., 37J. 

Lawrence Univ., Wis., 8g6. 

Layton Art Gallery, 894. 

Lead, 228, 804. 

Leadville, Col., no, 113. 

League Island, Penn., 728. 

Leary's Old Book Store, 743. 

Leather, 750, 900. 

Leather Belting, 139, 460. 

Leather- woven Link Belts, Mo., 
460. 

Leavenworth, Col., 420. 

Leavenworth, Fort, Kan., 270, 
271. 

Leavenworth, Kan., 263, 264, 269, 
271, 272. 

Leavenworth P. O., Kan., 271. 

Lecterns, 636. 

Ledger, X.Y., 626. 

Lee, Fitzhugh, on Va., 850. 

Lee Monument, Richmond, 856. 

Lee, Robert E., 163, 852, 862. 

Lehi, L'tah, S35, 

Lehigh University, Penn., 730. 

Lehigh Water Gap, 719. 

Leland, Charles E., Ore., 708. 

Leland Stanford Junior Univer- 
sity, 93,96, 



9^1 

Lemhi Valley, Idaho, 194. 
L'Enfant, Major, 150, 152. 
Leno.x Library, X'. Y., 599. 
Levee, Memphis, 797. 
Levee, X^. O., 299. 
Lewes, Del., 144, 147. 
Lewis and Clarke, 263, 865, 697. 
Lewisburg, Penn., 721. 
Lewis, George H., 621. 
Lewiston, Idaho, 199. 
Lexington in 1782, 274. 
Lexington, Ky., 281, 282, 283, 2S6. 
Lexington, Mass., 342. 
Lexington, P. O., Ky., 279. 
Liberty Enlightening the World, 

7, 558. 
Library of Philadelphia, 733, 734. 
Lick Observatory, 93, 681. 
Life-insurance, 615, 370. 
Life-Saving Service, 17, 20, 555. 
Liggett & Meyers Tobacco Co., 
. 458. 

Light-House Board, 20, 24. 
Light-Ship, 24. 
Ligonier Valley, Penn., 718. 
Lima C. H., Ohio, 665. 
Lincoln Institute, 729. 
Lincoln Monument, 210, 216. 
Lincoln, X'eb., 526, 529. 
Lincoln Park, Chicago, 111., 206. 
Lincoln's Gettysburg Speech, 714. 
Lincoln statues, 161, 162. 
Lincoln University, Penn. 731. 
Linen Ledger Paper, 390. 
Line of Battle, 19. 
Link-Be't Engineering Co., 754. 
Link-Belt Machinery Co., 225. 
Linkville, Ore., 704. 
Linoleum, 761. 
Linotype, 631. 

Linville Gorge, N. C, 650, 648. 
Linville River, X. C, 646. 
Liquor Laws, Iowa, 254. 
Lithia-Springs Hotel, Ga., 191. 
Lithography, 361, 690, 631, 630. 
Little Rhod'y, 765. 
Little Rock & Fort-Smith R.R..65. 
Little Rock, Ark., 67, 68, 60, 62, 

64, 65, 
Little-Rock C. H., 68. 
Little-Rock Post-office, Ark., 68. 
Little-Rock L'niversity, 67. 
Little Tennessee River, 795, 799, 

650. 
Litiz, Penn., 735. 
Liverpool, London & Globe Ins. 

Co., 618. 
Live Stock of U. S., 14. 
Llano del Rey, Cal., 70. 
Llano Estacado, 570, 817. 
Lockport, X. Y., 636, 604, 397. 
Logan, Fort, Col., 112. 
Logansport, Ind., 236, 238. 
Logansport, Soldiers' Monument, 

239- 
Logan, Utah, 838, 837. 
London Co., 849. 
Lone-Star State, 814. 
Long & Alstatter Co., 693. 
Long Branch, X. J.. 554. 
Longfellow, H. W., 342. 
Longfellow's Birthplace, 312. 
Longfellow's Wayside Inn, 342. 
Long Island, N.Y., 588,118,576,578. 
Long Pond, Winsted, 122. 
Long's Peak, Col., 101, 103, 102. 
Lookout Irm, Tenn., 806, 807. 



924 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Lookout Mountain, 806, 796, 810. 

Looms, 384. 

Loop near Georgetown, no. 

Loquats, 83. 

Lord De la'Warr, 143, 144. 

Loretto, Penn., 735. 

Lorillard Tobacco Works, 564. 

Los Angeles, 97, 71, 76, 92, 93, 81, 
568. 

Los Angeles, Army Headquar- 
ters, 96. 

Los Angeles, Y. M. C. A., 92. 

Lost Colony, 646. 

Louis Dejonge & Co., 632. 

Louisiana : history, 292' ; name, 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 296 ; agriculture, 300 ; 
sugar-raising, 302; climate, gov- 
ernment, 306 ; education, 307 ; 
newspapers, 308 ; National in- 
stitutions, chief cities, 309 ; 
commerce, finances, railroads, 
manufactures, 310 ; map, 478. 

Louisiana Cypress Lumber Co., 
298. 

Louisiana State LTniversity, 307, 
306. 

Louisiana Sugar Refinery, 305. 

Louisville City Hall, 284. 

Louisville Courier-journal, Ky. , 
284. 

Louisville Court-House, 289. 

Louisville, Custom House, 287. 

Louisville, Ky., 285, 277. 

Louisville, New-Albany & Chi- 
cago, R. R., 220. 

Lovers' Live-Oak, Brunswick, iSi. 

Low Art Tiles, 361. 

Lowell Carpet Co., 386, 399. 

Lowell, Mass., 373. 

Lower California, 69. 

Lubec, Me., 312. 

Lumber, 90, 872-3, 232, 426, 408, 
315, 889, 623,881, 817. 

Lumbering in Mich., 408. 

Luray Caverns, 855. 

Lutcher & Moore LumberCo.,830. 

Luther College, Iowa, 260. 

Luzerne Lake, N. Y., 584. 

Lyell, Mount, Cal., 74. 

Lynn, Canal, Alaska, 49. 

Lynn, Mass., 373, 349. 

Macbeth (George A.) & Co., 757. 

Machias, Me., 312. 

Machine Builders, 686. 

Machine Tools, 752, 775. 

MacKellar, Smiths & Jordan, 742. 

Mackinac, Mich., 403, 405. 

Mackinaw, Straits of, Mich., 403. 

Macon, Ga., 187, 189. 

Macon Post-Office, 189. 

Macullar, Parker & Co., 398. 

Madison, Fort, Iowa, 261. 

Madison's home, Va., 855. 

Madison, S. D., 792, 794. 

Madison Square Garden, N.Y., 601. 

Madison-Square Theatre, 623. 

Madison Street, Memphis, 798. 

Madison, Wis., 897, 898. 

Magazine M..S , Ark., 62, 65. 

Mail-Bag Catching 20. 

Maine : history 311; name, arms, 
312 ; list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 313 ; summer-resorts, 314 : 
climate, geology, 315 ; agricul- 
ture, government, 316 ; militia. 



United-States buildings, educa- 
tion, 317 ; chief cities, maritime 
trade, railroads, 318 ; steam- 
ships, 319 ; manufactures, 320 ; 
map, 479. 

Maine, Battle-Ship, 23. 

Maine Central R. R., 319, 539, 543. 

Maine Law, 312. 

Maine Woods, 315. 

Making Tar, N. C, 652. 

Malad Valley, Utah, 834. 

Maiden Library, Mass., 374. 

Malvern Hill, Va., 853. 

Mammoth Cave, Ky., 276, 352. 

Mammoth Hot Springs, 911, gio, 
912. 

Manchester-by-the-Sea, 352, 362. 

Manchester, N. H., 543, 540. 

Manchester Post-Ofifice, 540. 

Manchester, Vt., 842, 844, 845. 

Mandan Country, 655. 



Manhattan, 576, 577. 
Manhattan Club, N 



Y. 
270. 



607. 



Manhattan, Kan. 
Manilla Paper, 632. 
Manitou, Col., 108. 
Manitou Islands, 403, 404. 
Mankato, Minn., 426. 
Mansfield, Mt., Vt., 840,842. 
Manti, Mormon Temple, 835. 
Manual Training School, Chicago, 

228. 
Manual Training School, St. 

Louis, 448. 
Manufactories of U. S., 25. 
Maple Sugar, 667, 843. 
Maplewood, Tenn., 805. 
Maps, 628. 

Marble, 347, 184, 726, 844, 801. 
Marble Cafion, Ariz., 56. 
March to the Sea, 178. 
Marcus Synagogue, 368. 
Mardi Gras, La., 309. 
Mare Island, Cal., oi. 
Marietta College, Ohio, 662, 673. 
Marietta, Ga., 186, 189, 190. 
Marietta, Ohio, 661, 663, 664. 
Marine Barracks, D. C, 160. 
Marine Hospital, Key West, 172. 
Marine Insurance, N. Y., 618. 
Marion, Fort, Fla., 174. 
Marquand Chapel, Yale, 125. 
Marquette, 253, 437, 401, 443, 201. 
Marquette, Mich., 410. 
Marquette Post-Office, 407. 
Marquette Range, Mich., 410. 
Marsalis, T. L.,824. 
Marshall, Field & Co., 227. 
Marshall Pass, Col., 105. 
Marshall Statue, 71. 
Martha's Vineyard, Mass, 

34°- 

Martinsburg, W. Va., 884. 

Martyrs' Monument, N. Y., 

Mary J. Dre.xel Home, 725. 

Maryland: history, 321; name, 
arms, 324 ; list of governors, de- 
scriptive, 325 ; climate, farm- 
products, 327 ; minerals, gov- 
ernment, 328 ; education, 329 ; 
newspapers. National institu- 
tions, 332 ; chief cities, 333 ; 
finances, railroads, 335 ; manu- 
factures, 336 ; map, 468. 

Md. Agricultural College, 324, 329. 

Maryland Heights, 327. 

Marys ville, Cal., 97. 



347, 



600. 



Mason and Dixon's Line, 322, 710. 

Mason, Capt. John, 117, 120. 

Masonic Home, Mich., 404. 

Masonic Library, Iowa, 259. 

Masonic Temples, 221, 639, 722. 

Masonic Widows and Orphans' 
Home, 278. 

Mason, James & Co., 758. 

Massachusetts : history, 339 ; 
name, arms, 344 ; motto, list of 
governors, 345 ; descriptive, 
346 ; geology, 347 : climate, ag- 
riculture, 348 ; parks and pleas- 
ure-grounds, 349 ; State govern- 
ment, 350 ; charities and correc- 
tions, 351 ; health and mortality, 
United-States institutions, 352 ; 
educational, 354 : amusements, 
359; art, 360; public libraries, 
362 ; memorials, 363 ; maritime 
commerce, 364 ; fisheries, popu- 
lation, 365 ; religion, 366: rail- 
roads, 369 ; steamships, life-in- 
surance, 370 ; newspapers, 371 ; 
chief cities, 372 ; finances and 
banking, 376 ; insurance, 377 ; 
manufactures, 378; map, 480. 

Massachusetts Ave., D. C, 152. 

Mass. Charitable Mechanic Asso., 
376. 

Mass. Institute of Technology, 

3,S5- 
Massasoit, 763. 

Mast, Crowell & Kirkpatrick, 676. 
Mast, P. P. & Co., 683. 
Matador Ranche, 829. 
Matagorda Bay, 815. 
Matches, 685. 
Matthews, J. N., 628. 
Matthews-Northrup Co., Buffalo, 

N. Y.,628. 
Mauch Chunk, 718, 740. 
Maumee River, Ohio, 666. 
Mauvaises Terres, 657. 
Ma.xwell House, Nashville, 805. 
Mayacamas Mts., 89. 
May, Cape, N. J., 554. 
I\fay/loiurr, 340. 
McAlester, I. T., 252. 
McCormick Harvesting Machine 

Co., 224. 
McDowell, Maj. H. C, 282. 
McHenry, Fort, Md., 333. 
McMichael, Morton, 737, 741. 
McMichael, Morton, Jr., 744. 
McNeely & Co., 759. 
McPherson Statue, 161, 162. 
Meadville, Pa., 739. 
Meat-Packing, Neb., 525. 
Mechanic Falls, Me., 320. 
Medical Lake, Wash., 870, 871. 
Medical Library and Museum, 

162, 159. 
Medicinal Herbs, 652. 
Medoc Vineyard, N. C, 651, 652. 
Memorial Arch, Hartford, 120, 129. 
Memorial Hall, Phila., 736. 
Memphis, Tenn., 805, 808, 795, 796, 

797, 798, 799, 804, 809,810. 
Memphremagog, Lake, Vt., 841, 

842. 
Mendocino, Cape, Cal., 69. 
Menomonee Indians, 888, 893. 
Merced River, Cal., 74. 
Mercer, Fort, N. J., 550. 
Mercer University, Ga., 187. 
Merchants' Bridge, St. Louis, 444. 



INDEX. 



925 



Merchants' Cotton Press Storage 
Co., 810. 

Mercliants' Nat. Bank, Bait., 335. 

Merchants' Nat. Bank, Boston, 
376. 

Merchants' Nat. Bank, Tacoma, 
878. 

Mergenthaler Printing Co., 631. 

Meriden Britannia Co., 135. 

Meriden, Conn., 130. 

Meriden Reform School, 124. 

Meridian, Miss., 442. 

Meriwether, Lewis, 193. 

Merino sheep, 844. 

Mermod & Jaccard Jewelry Co., 
460. 

Merrimac River, 339, 346, 540. 

Mesilla Valley, N. M., 571. 

Metairie Cemetery, 309. 

Methodist General Hospital, 593. 

Metlakahtla, Alaska, 52, 49. 

Metropole Hotel, Denver, 113. 

Metropolitan Museum, N. Y.,602. 

Metropolitan Museum of Art, 
N. Y., fo2. 

Metropolitan Opera House, N. V., 
602. 

Mexican Boundary Mon't, 71. 

Mexican Women, 57. 

Meyer Bros. Drug Co., 459. 

Miami University, Ohio, 673. 

Miami Valley, Ohio, 678. 

MiantonoiHoh, iron-clad, 23. 

Michigan : history, 401, name, 
arms, list of governors, 402 ; 
descriptive, 403 ; Lower Penin- 
sula, 404 ; climate, agriculture, 
405 ; minerals, 406 ; lumber, 407; 
Upper Peninsula, 409; iron-pro- 
duct, 410 ; government, State 
troops, charities and correc- 
tions, 411; education, 412; 
newspapers, chief cities, 414; 
finances, railroads, 415 ; manu- 
factures, 416 ; distances between 
lake-ports, 418 ; map, 482. 

Mich. Car Co., 417. 

Michigan Central R. R., 220, 416, 
619. 

Mich. Central Stat., Detroit, 415. 

Mich. Cen. Stat., Kalamazoo, 415. 

Michigan City, Ind., 235, 238. 

Michigan, Lake, 403. 

Michigan Mining School, 411. 

Michigan University, 412. 

Microscopes, 637. 

Middlebury College, Vt., 846, 845. 

Middlebury, Vt., 845, 846. 

Middle Park, Col., 104, 105. 

Middlesborough, Ky., 276, 283. 

Middlesex Fells, Mass., 349. 

Middletown, Conn., 130. 

Middletown Industrial School, 
124. 

Middletown, N. Y., 604. 

Middletown Springs, Vt., 843. 

Midland Hotel, Kansas City, 454. 

Mifflin, Fort, Penn., 728. 

Milburn Gin and Machine Co., 
809. 

Miles City, Mont., 519. 

Milford, Conn., 120, 118, 119. 

Military Academy, 599, 17, 18. 

Military Courage, 333. 

Mihtary Service, 19, 17. 

Milledgeville, Ga., 186, 189 

Millerites, 598. 



Millinery, 227, 337. 

Mills Building, N. Y., oio, 96, 88. 

Mills, D. O., N. Y.,6io. 

Milwaukee, 896, 898. 

Milwaukee Cham, of Com., 890. 

Mine Engine, 724. 

Minerals of U. S., 14. 

Miners' Hospital, Penn., 7^5. 

Mining Bureau, Cal., 94. 

Mining Machinery, 692. 

Mining, Mont., 516. 

Minisink, Penn., 719. 

Minneapolis, 431. 

Minneapolis Cemetery, 424. 

Minneapolis Chamber of Com- 
merce, 431. 

Minneapolis City Hall, 430. 

Minneapolis Exposition, 425. 

Minneapolis Masonic Temple,428. 

Minneapolis P. O., 424. 

Minneapolis Public Library, 424. 

Minneapolis Tribune, 429. 

Minnehaha Falls, Minn., 424, 423. 

Minnesota: history, 419; name, 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 421 ; farming, 425 ; mining, 

426 ; population, government, 

427 ; education, 428 ; ^ religion, 
newspapers, 429 ; chief cities, 
431 ; finances, 434 ; railways, 
435 ; map, 481. 

Minn. Iron Co., 426, 427. 

Minnesota Lake, 421. 

Minn. Loan & Trust Co., 435. 

Minnesota River, 423. 

Minnetonka Lake, Minn., 420,436. 

Minor, Henry C, 302. 

Minot's Ledge Light, 24. 

Mints, U.-S., 25, 87. 

Minuteman Statue, Mass., 343. 

Mission Dolores, 72. 

Mission Concepcion, 812. 

Mission Indians, 92, 69, 70. 

Mission Mt., 510. 

Mission Peak, Cal., 96. 

Mississippi : history, 437 ; name, 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 439 ; geology, climate, 440 ; 
agriculture, government, 441 ; 
education, chief cities, 442 ; 
map, 484. 

Miss. College, 439, 442. 

Mississippi River, 299, 309, 422, 
444. 

Mississippi Sound, 440. 

Missisquoi Springs, Vt., 843. 

Missoula, Mont., 519. 

Missouri : history, 443 ; name, 
arms, list of governoFS, descrip- 
tive, 446 ; climate, agriculture, 
448 ; mining, 449 ; government. 
National guard, education, 450 ; 
newspapers, 451 ; chief cities, 
452 ; finances, 454 ; railways, 
manufactures, 456 ; map 485. 

Missouri Compromise, 264. 

Missouri-Pacific Railway, 68. 

Missouri River, 447, 523, 657, 257. 

Mo.-River Bridge, 272. 

Mitchell, Alex., 885, qoo. 

Mitchell, Mount, N. C, 650, 654. 

Mobile, 35, 41, 33, 29, 27, 28. 

Moccasin Bend, Tenn., 807. 

MogoUon Mts., Ariz., 55. 

Mohave Desert, 100, 80, 81. 

Mohegan tribe, 117. 

Monmouth, N. J., 550, 



Monmouth Park, 560. 

Mono Lake, Cal., 72, 74, 77. 

Monona Lake, 896, 898. 

Monon Block, 220. 

Monongahela River, 719. 

Monon Route, 220, 219, 242. 

Monroe, Fort, 851, 858. 

Montana : history, 509 ; name, 
arms, list of governors, 510 ; 
descriptive, 511 ; climates, agri- 
culture, 515 ; mining, govern- 
ment, 516 ; education, religion. 
National works, 517 ; chief 
cities, 518 ; railroads, 519 ; fi- 
nance, 520 ; map, 486. 

Mont. , College of. Deer Lodge, 5 1 7. 

Montana Cowboys, 510. 

Montana University, 517. 

Monterey, Cal., 69,70,71, 78, 90, 
831. 

Monterey : Hotel Del Monte, 78. 

Monterey: Old Custom House, 70. 

Montezuma Hotel, Bessemer, 39. 

Montezuma Well, Ariz., 57. 

Montgomery, 35, 28. 

Montgomery, Fort, N. Y., 600. 

Montgomery State House, 27, 33. 

Monticello, Va., 852. 

Montpelier, Vt., 841, 845. 

Montpelier, Va., 855. 

Monumental City, 331. 

Monument over Plymouth Rock, 

343- 
Monument Park, Col., 108. 
Monument Place, Wilmington, 145. 
Moody, D. L., 357, 210. 
Moore & Sinnott, 758. 
Moorhead Normal School, Minn., 

427. 
Moosehead Lake, Me., 313. 
Moosetocmaguntic Lake, 314. 
Moqui Pueblo, 58, 53, 571. 
Moravian Church, Penn., 735. 
Morehead City, N. C, 653, 646. 
Morgan Envelope Co., 391, 141. 
Morgan's (Enoch) Sons Co., 641. 
Morgantown, W. Va., 883. 
Mormons, 833,405, 444, 598,831, 

664, 202, 531, 197, 199, 903. 
Mormon Temples, 834, 838, 835. 
Morris Canal, 556, 562. 
Morris (Josiah) & Co., 42. 
Morris (Josiah) Block, 36. 
Morristown Asylum, 557. 
Morristown, N. J., 550, 553. 
Morse Twist Drill & Machine Co., 

394- 
Mortgage Bank, N. D., 660. 
Morton McMichael Statue, 735. 
Morton Monument, 234. 
Moscow, Idaho, 198. 
Mossbrae Falls, 8r. 
Mother of Presidents, 853. 
Motor (Thomson-Houston) Co., 

379- 
Mound at Catoosa, I. T., 249. 
Mound-builders, 885. 
Mountain Island, 892. 
Mt. Byram Iron Mine, 556. 
Mt. de Chantal, 884. 
Mount Gretna, 727. 
Mount-Holyoke College, 357. 
Mt. St. -Mary's College, 325, 330. 
Mt.-Sinai Hospital, N. V., 592. 
Mt.-Vernon Barracks, Ala., 33. 
Mt.- Vernon Cotton-Duck Mills, 

337. 



926 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Mount Vernon, Va., 850, 852, 162. 
Ml.-Washington Railway, 539. 
Mower-Knives, 642, 690. 
Muir Glacier, Alaska, 48, 49. 
Mullet-fisheries, Fla., 169. 
Multnomah Falls, Ore., 702, 704. 
Munising, Mich., 411. 
Muscatine, Iowa, 261. 
Muscle Shoals, Ala., 28, 30. 
Muscogee, Ind. T., 249, 252, 696, 

437, 645. 
Museum of Fine Arts, 360, 394. 
Music Hall, N. Y., 636, 
Music-Publishing, 399- 
Muskegon, Mich., 414- 
Muskingum River, Ohio, 662, 663, 

666. 
Mutual Benefit Life-Ins. Co., 562 
Mutual Life-insurance Co., of 

N. Y., 570, 616. 
Mystic River, Conn., 117. 

Nacogdoches, 811, 818. 

Name of U.-S., 7. 

Nantahala, N. C, 645, 650. 

Nantucket, 340, 347. 

Napa, Cal., 97. 

Napa Soda Springs, 8g. 

Napa Valley, Cal., 76. 

Narragansetts, 117, 763, 764, 765. 

Narragansett Bay, R. 1., 764, 766, 

767. 
Narragansett Hotel, 771, 777- 
Narragansett Pier, Casino, 766. 
Narrows, The, N. Y., 600, 601. 
Nashotah House, Wis., 896. 
Nashua Card & Glazed Paper 
Co., 547. 

Nashua, N. H., 543. 

Nashville, 804, 796, 797, 798- 799- 
802, 803, 805, 809. 

Nashville Public Buildings, 799. 

Natatorium, Helena, 514. 

Natchez, Miss., 442, 438. 

Natchez Trace, 808. 

Natchitoches, La., 293, 307. 

National Academy of Designs, 
N. Y., 602. 

Nat. Bank of Commerce, 455. 

National Banks, 20. 

National Carbon Co., 691. 

National Cemetery, Arlington, 

855- 

National City, Cal., 97. 

National Home for Disabled Vol- 
unteer Soldiers, 271, 317, 92, 241, 
671. 

Nat. Museum, D. C, 159, 162. 

Nat. Park Bank, 612. 

Nat. AV/cri't'r system, Minn., 430. 

Nat. Road, 327, 712. 

National Songs, 17, 357- 

Nat. Statuary Hall, 155. 

Nat. Tube Works, 756. 

Nat. Worsted Mills, 776. 

Natural Bridge, Ark., 60; Cal., 
80; Ky.; 277; Va., 854, 856. 

Natural Gas, 242, 246, 668, 670. 

Natural Sciences, Academy of, 

729- „ 

Naugatuck River, Conn., 121, 130. 
Nautical Schools, 596, 734. 
Nanvoo, III., 202. 
Nauvoo Legion, 832, 837. 
Navajoes, N. M., 574. 
Naval Academy, 332, 17, 22. 
Naval Battalion, Mass., 350. 



Naval Observatory, 159, 160. 
Naval Signal-flags, 4. 
Naval Station, Key West, 168. 
Navesink Highlands, N. J., 554- 
Navy, 17, 23. 
Navy Department, 157. 
Nazareth, Penn., 735. 
Neah-Bay Agency, 875. 
Nebraska : history, 521 ; name, 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 522; climate, farming, 524; 
government, education, 526 ; 
newspapers, 527 ; finance, chief 
cities, 528 ; United-States insti- 
tutions, railroads, 529 ; manu- 
factures, 530 ; map, 487. 
Needle Peaks, Col., 106. 
Needles, The, Ariz., 58, 8i, 98. 
Nemaha River, 530. 
Nephi, Utah, 838, 834, 837. 
Neutral Strip, 696. 
Nevada : history, 531 ; name, 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 533 ; climate, 534 ; farming, 
minerals. 535 ; government, rail- 
roads, chief towns, 536; map, 
464. 
Nevada Gity, Cal., 97. 
Nevada State University, 536. 
Nevins Memorial Library, 363, 

362. 
New-Albany Woolen Mills, 246. 
New Albion, 69. 
New Almaden, Cal., 87. 
New American File Co., 780. 
Newark and Passaic River, 561. 
Newark C. H., 561. 
Newark, Del., 147, i44- 
Newark, N. J., 560. 
Newark P. 0., 561. 
New Bedford, Mass., 374. 
New Berne, N. C, 647, 649, 653. 
Newberry Library, 210. 
New Britain, Conn., 130. 
New Brunswick, N. J., 559, 561- 
Newburgh Headquarters, 581. 
Newburgh, N. Y., 6og, 118, 579, 

581; 582, 586, 604- 
Newburyport, Mass., 373, 342, 346- 

348, 349. 352, 353, 354, 367, 364- 
Newbury Springs, Vt., 843. 
New Castle, Del., 143, 148- 
New-England Anderson Pressed 

Brick Co., 400. 
New-England Conservatory of 

Music. 363. 
New-England Mutual Life-insur- 
ance Co., 370, 454. 
Newfound Lake, N. H., 539. 
New Hampshire : history, 537 ; 
name, arms, list of governors, 
538 ; descriptive, 539 ; govern- 
ment, education, 541 ; religion, 
chief cities. 543 ; commerce, 
finances, insurance, 544; agri- 
culture, manufactures, 545 ; 
minerals, 548 ; map, 506. 
N. H. Fire-Ins. Co., 544. 
New-Haven, 129, 118. 
New Jersey: history, 549; name, 
arms, list of governors, 551 ; 
descriptive, 552; agriculture, 
555 ; minerals, government, 556; 
National Guard, 557; education, 
558; chief cities, 560; insur- 
ance, 561 ; railroads, canals, 
manufactories, 562 ; map, 488. 



New London, Conn., 122, 130. 
New Madrid, Mo., 444. 
New Mexico : history, 567 ; 
name, arms, list of governors, 
descriptive, 569 ; climate. 570; 
farming, mining, 571 ; govern- 
ment, 572 ; education, popula- 
tion, 573 ; chief towns, irriga- 
tion, 574 ; map. 489. 
New Old South Church, 366. 
New Orleans, 307, 309, 293, 294, 664. 
N.-O. Custom House, 301. 
N.-O. Mint, 296. 
N.-O. National Bank, 310. 
Newport, R. I., 763, 764, 766, 768, 

771. 
Newport, Vt., 841. 
New River, W. Va., 882, 883. 
Newspapers in U. S., 21. 
New Sweden, Del., 143, 709- 
Newton, Mass., 373, 393, i7- 
Newton Theol. Sem., 357. 
New York, 605, 601. 
New York : history, 575 ; name, 
arms, list of governors, 582; 
descriptive, 583; climate, geol- 
ogy, 588; population, 589 ; farm- 
ing. 590 ; government, National 
Guard, charities and correc- 
tions, 591 ; education, 593 ; re- 
ligion, 597 ; National institu- 
tions, 599 ; chief cities, 601 ; 
maritime commerce, canals, 604; 
bridges, 607 ; finances. 609; trust 
companies, 613 ; life-insurance, 
615; fire-insurance, 618; rail- 
roads, 619; hotels, 620; theatres, 
622 ; lumber and coal, 623 ; 
newspapers, 624; manufactures, 
626; map, 490-1. ^ „ . , ^ 
N.-Y. Anderson Pressed Brick Co., 



N. Y. & N. E. Bridge, Hartford, 

123, 129. 
N. Y. & New England R. R., 36"- 

128. J ^ 

New- York Central Railroad, big. 
N.-Y. Custom House. 24. 
N.-Y. Life-Ins. Co., 617, 431, 432, 

527, 528. 
New- York P. O. , 620. 
Nez Perces, Idaho, 200. 
Niagara Falls Route. 220. 
Niagara Falls, N. Y., 608, 607, 

586, 627. 
Niagara, Fort, N. Y., 577, 601. 
Niagara Hotel, Buffalo, 621. 
Niagara River, N. Y., 580, 581, 

582, 584, 586. 
Nichols, J. Howard, 386. 
Nicholson File Co., 780. 
Nickel, 726. 

Nicojack Cave, Ga., 181. 
Niobrara, Neb., 523. 
Nippenose Valley, Penn., 718. 
Nittany Valley, Pa., 718. 
Noble Institute, Ala., 36, 37. 
No Man's Land, 6g6, 812. 
Norcross Bros., 227, 308, 375, 677, 

738- 
Nordyke & Marmon Co., 244, 
Norfolk Neck. Va., 854. 
Norfolk, St.-Paul's, 851. 
Norfolk, Va., 856. 
Normal Art School, Boston, 36a 
Normal School, Florence, 41. 
Norristown, Penn., 739- . 



INDEX. 



927 



Norseman Statue, Boston, 340. 
Norsemen, 340, 311. 
North America, Bank of, 743. 
North-Amercian Commercial Co., 

52- 

North American, Phila., 741. 

Northampton, Mass., 374. 

North Carolina : history, 645 ; 
name, arms, list of governors, 
descriptive, 648 ; climate, agri- 
culture, 651 ; mineral resources, 
652 ; government, education, 
653; chief cities, manufacturing, 
railroads, 654 ; map, 492. 

Northern Cheyennes, 518, 695. 

North Dakota : history, 655 ; 
name, arms, list of governors, 
descriptive, 656 ; farming, cli- 
mate, government, 658 ; educa- 
tion, chief cities, railroads, 659 ; 
map, 493. 

North Easton Town Hall, 364. 

Northern Neck, Va., 852, 854. 

Northern Hospital for Insane, El- 
gin, 207. 

Northtield, Minn., 429, 434. 

Northtield, W., 846. 

North Park, Col., 105. 

North-Star State, 42 t. 

North Yakima, Wash., 871. 

Norton Sound, Alaska, 47, 49, 50, 

5i- 46. 
Northwestern Miller, 430. 
Northwestern University, 208, 

209. 
Northwest Seal Rock, 78. 
Norumbega Tower, 341, 340. 
Norwich, Conn., 130, 129. 
Norwich Free Academy, 127. 
Norwich Harbor, Conn., 129. 
Noyo Lumber Co., 90. 
Nuklakayet, Alaska, 48. 
Nullification, 782. 
Nurseries, 641. 
Nuwuk, Alaska, 47. 

Oak-Cliff Hotel, 824. 
Oak-Cliff University, 824. 
Oakland Beach, R. I., 768. 
Oakland, Cal., q6. 
Oakland, Md., 326, 327. 
Oat-Meal, 687. 
Obelisk, N. Y., 590, 602. 
Oberlin College, Ohio, 672. 
Observatoriesinthe United States, 

33°! 153. 316. 
Observatory, Ladd, 770. 
Ocean Pier, Cape May, 554. 
Ocean Springs, Miss., 440. 
Ocklawaha, on the, Fla., 169, 176. 
Oconomowoc, Wis., 887. 
Odd-Fellows Hall, 458. 
Ogalalla Siou.x, 529. 
Ogden Canon, Utah, 833. 
Ogden Monument, 265. 
Ogdensburg, N. Y., 604. 
Ogden, Utah, 836, 837, 835, 834, 

838, 832, 833. 
Ogeechee Canal, Ga., igi. 
Oglethorpe, Gen., 177, 189. 
Ohio Company, 663. 
Ohio: history, 661 ; name, arms, 

list of governors, descriptive, 

665 ; climate, farming, 667; 

minerals, 668 ; government, 670; 

education, 671 ; newspapers, 

675 ; chief cities, 676 ; railroads. 



678 ; canals, finances, manufac- 
tures, 679 ; map, 494. 

Ohio Inst, for Deaf and Dumb, 
670. 

Ohio River, 666, 719, 881, 882. 

Ohio State University, 671. 

Ohio University, 672, 671. 

Oil City, Penn., 725, 756. 

Oil-Cloth, 760. 

Oil-Refineries, 563. 

Oil- Well Supply Co., 756. 

Okeechobee, Lake, 170, 444. 

Okefinokee Swamp, Ga., 180. 

Oklahoma City, 696. 

Oklahoma : history, 603 ; name, 
descriptive, 694 ; map, 502. 

Okmulgee, I. T., 251. 

Okoboji Lakes, Iowa, 256. 

Olcott Mills, 847. 

Old Colony, 340, 346. 

Old Colony Railroad, 369. 

Old Dominion, 853. 

Oldest Dwelling House in the 
U. S., 569. 

Oldest Mill in Penn., 710. 

Old Faithful Geyser, goo, 911. 

Old Gate, St. Augustine, 176. 

Old-Line State, 324. 

Old Man of the Mt., 541. 

Old North State, 648. 

Old Point Comfort, Va.,853. 

Old Slater Mill, 764. 

Old South Church, 366, 343. 

Old South Meeting House, 366. 

Old State House, Boston, 341, 343. 

Old Stone Mill, Newport, 746. 

Old Stone Mill, R. I., 765. 

Old Swedes Church, 145. 

Olives, Cal., 83. 

Oliver Chilled Plow Works, 243. 

Oliver Iron and Steel Co., 750. 

Olivet College, Mich., 413. 

Olustee, Fla., 166. 

Olympia State-House, 865. 

Olympic Mts., Wash., 12, 867, 869. 

Omaha & Grant Smelting Works, 
114, 528. 

Omaha Cathedral, 526. 

Omaha City Hall, 529. 

Omaha, Neb., 522, 528, 530. 

Omaha Nat. Bank, 528. 

Omaha Water Works, 526. 

Omaha Y. M. C. A., 524. 

Oneida Community, N. Y., 599. 

Oneida Lake, N. Y., 585. 

Oneidas, 576, 888. 

Oneida Salt Works, Idaho, iq8. 

Onyx, 88. 

Oostenaula River, 181. 

Opal Glass- Ware, 757. 

Optical Instruments, 636. 

Oquirrh Mts., Utah, 834, 835, 837. 

Oraiba, N. M., 570. 

Orange Culture, 82, 171, 172. 

Orchard Irrigation, 85. 

Ordinance of 1787, 663. 

Ore Docks, Marquette, 403. 

Oregon City, 703. 

Oregon Emigration Board, 708. 

Oregon : history, 697 ; name, 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tions, 699; chmate, agriculture, 
704 ; minerals, government, ed- 
ucation, 70s ; finances, 706 ; 
chief cities, 707 ; railway sys- 
tem, 708 ; map, 495. 

Oregon National Park, 699. 



Oregon question, 866. 

Orford, Port, Ore., 703. 

Organs, 848. 

Orleans Cotton Press, 302. 

Orphan Asylum, Charleston, 786. 

Orleans, Vineyard, Cal., 84. 

Osage River, Mo., 447; 

Osborn Hall, Yale, 125. 

Oshkosh School, 887. 

Ostrich Ranches, 86. 

Oswego, N. Y., 577, 580, 585, 601, 

604. 
Oswego, Ore., 705. 
Otsego Lake, 583, 584. 
Otter Creek, Vt., 843, S44, 846. 
Ouachita College, Ark., 62, 67. 
Ouachita River, 63, 64. 
Ouray, Col., 112. 
Overland Mail, 72. 
Owen's Lake, Cal., 76, 77, 98. 
Owyhee River, Ore , 702. 
Oysters, 229. 

Oyster Fleet, Crisfield, 326. 
Oyster Packing, Md., 326. 
Ozark Mts., 445, 446, 447. 

Pabst Brewery, 900. 

Pacific Bank, qq. 

Pacific-Coast Elevator Co., 703, 

708. 
Pacific Grove, Cal., 79. 
Pacific University, Ore., 706. 
Packer, Asa, 730. 
Packer Church, 734. 
Packer Hall, Lehigh Univ., 73c. 
Packing Oranges, 171. 
Padre Island, Texas, 815. 
Page, Gov. Carroll S., 846, 842. 
Pagosa Springs, Col., 108. 
Pahsamari Valley, 194. 
Paige, John C, 377. 
Pain-Killer, Perry Davis's, 780. 
Paintings, 360, 762. 
Paint Pots, Wyo., 909, 911. 
Paint Rock, N. C, 649. 
Paints and Fresco Colors, 635, 688. 
Palace Butte, 910. 
Palace Hotel, 92. 
Palatka, Fla., 176. 
Palisades, 552, 555. 
Palm Canon, Cal., 83. 
Palmer, A. M., 622. 
Palmer Lake, Col., 107. 
Palmer's Theater, N. Y., 62:2. 
Palmetto State, 781. 
Palo Alto, Cal., 93. 
Palo-Duro Caiion, 817. 
Palo-Pinto Bridge, Te.\as, 821. 
Palouse County, 868. 
Pamlico Sound, 647, 648, 649. 
Pan-Handle State, 870. 
Pan Handle, Texas, 816, 812, 814, 

817, 822, 825. 
Pan Handle, W. Va., 880, 881. 
Paper Bags, 685. 
Paper Mills, 320, 389, 390, 547, 632, 

684, 742, 847. 
Parchment Paper, 389. 
Paris, Idaho, 199. 
Park City, Utah, 836, 837, 838. 
Parke, Davis & Co., 418. 
Parkersburg Bridge, 881. 
Parkersburg, W. Va., 884. 
Park Nat. Bank, 612. 
Park Range, Col., 109, 905. 
Park Region, Minn., 422, 424. 
Park-St. Church, Boston, 366. 



g2i 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Parry Mfg. Co., 244. 

Parsons Paper Co., 389. 

Pasadena, Cal., 77, 97. 

Passaic Falls, 553. 

Passamaquoddy Bay, 318. 

Pass Christian, Miss., 440. 

Pasteboard, 684. 

Patent Insides, 211. 

Patent Office, 157. 

Paterson, N. J., 561. 

Patroons, 577. 

Paulina Valley, Ore., 701. 

Paulists, N. v., 597. 

Pawtucket, R. I., 771. 

Pawcatuck River, R. I., 768. 

Payette Lakes, Idaho, 196. 

Payne, David L., 693. 

Payne, Fort, Ala., 40. 

Peabody Education Fund, 331, 

803, 653. 
Peabody Institute, Bait., 331. 
Peabody Museum, 124, 125. 
Peabody Normal College, Tenn., 

802, 803. 
Peace Monument, 161. 
Peach Gathering, Del., 146. 
Peacock, Hunt & Co., 182. 
Peanuts, 799, 652. 
Pearl River, Miss., 440. 
Peavey (F. H.) & Co., 433, 448, 

902, 708. 
Pecos Irrigation and Investment 

Co., 574. 
Pecos River, N. M., 574. 
Pee-Dee River, N. C, 782. 
Pegum-Saugum Point, 111., 202. 
Pelican State, 296. 
Pembina, N. D., 425, 655, 659. 
Pendleton, Ore., 702. 
Pend 'Oreilles, 699, 518. 
Pend 'Oreilles Lake, Idaho, 198. 

195- 

Penitentes, N. M., 573. 

Pennsylvania : history, 709 ; 
name, arms, list of governors, 
descriptive, 716; agriculture, 
720; climate, minerals, 721; gov- 
ernment, 726; charities and cor- 
rections, 727; United-States in- 
stitutions, 728 ; education, 729; 
chief cities, 735; commerce, rail- 
roads, 739 ; canals, 740 ; news- 
papers, 741 ; finances, 743 ; in- 
surance, 745 ; manufactures, 
746 ; map, 496. 

Penn. Avenue, 150, 151, 152. 

Penn. College, 730, 731. 

Penn. Co. for Insurances on 
Lives, 744. 

Penn. Globe Gas-Light Co., 755. 

Penn. Hospital, 729. 

Penn. Hospital, 726. 

Penn. Mutual Life-insurance Co., 

745- 
Penn. Railroad, 740. 
Penn. Steel Co., 749. 
I'enn. Steel Co.'s Wks., Md., 338. 
Penn Treaty Monument, 710. 
Pensacola, 165, 166, 173, 175, 176. 
Pension Building, D. C, 160, 151. 
Pensions, 17. 

Pent well Peak, Wis., 890. 
Peoria Court House, 213. 
Pepin, Lake, 423, 892. 
Pequot Tribe, 117, 120. 
Perique Tobacco, 301. 
Perkins School for Blind, 350, 357. 



Perrier Pass, Alaska, 46. 

Perry Monument, 765. 

Perth Amboy, N. J., 550, 551, 556. 

Petaluma, Cal., 97. 

Peters Dash Co., 682. 

Petit Anse, La., 295. 

Petoskey, Mich., 415. 

Petrified Forest, Ariz., 55, 57. 

Petrified Wood, 792. 

Petroff, Ivan, 50. 

Petroleum, 88, iii, 562, 669, 725, 

756, 882. 
Pfister & Vogel Leather Co., 900. 
Phantom Curve, Col., 108. 
Pharmacists, 418. 
Phelps Publishing Co., 372. 
Philadelphia, 735. 
Phila. Academy of Music, 722. 
Phila. Custom House, 718. 
Phila. P. O., Phila., 727. 
Phila., Public Building, 728. 
Philadelphia Recorii, 741. 
Phila. Shafting Works, 753. 
Philip Kearney, N. J., 551. 
Phillip Best, 900. 
Phillips E.\eter Academy, N. H., 

543- 
Phoenix, Ariz., 58. 
Phoenix Glass Co., 757. 
Phosphate Rock, 172,653. 
Phosphatic Preparations, 780. 
Photographic Art, 632. 
Phylloxera, 84. 
Piano-Lamps, 135. 
Pianos, 635, 688. 
Pickands, Mather & Co., 680. 
Pickens, Fort, Fla., 166, 174, 175. 
Pickwick Club, N. O., 309. 
Pictured Rocks, Mich., 410, 411. 
Piedmont, 649, 782, 784, 855. 
Piedmont Chautauqua, Ga., 187, 

188. 
Pierre, S. D., 794, 789, 792, 793. 
Pike, Lieut. Z. M., 420. 
Pike's Peak, Col., loi, 102, 106, 

103, 108. 
Pike's Peakers, 102. 
Pilgrim Fathers, 340. 
Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, 341. 
Pillars of Hercules, Ore., 69S. 
Pillory, Del., 146. 
Pillsbury, Charles A., 432. 
Pillsbury-Washburn Flour Mills, 

432. 
Pilot Knob, Mo., 446, 447. 
Pineapples, Fla., 168. 
Pine Barrens, S. C, 784. 
Pine Bluff, Ark., 67, 68. 
Pine Ridge, Neb., 529. 
Pines, Among the, Fla., 170. 
Pine-Tree Flag, 4. 
Pine-Tree State, 312. 
Piney Woods, N. C, 651. 
Pinole, Point, Cal., 86. 
Pipe Lines, Penn., 725. 
Pipes, Iron, 38. 
Pipestone quarry, 427. 
Piscataqua, N. H., 540. 
Pisgah, Mount, N. C, 650. 
Pitkin & Brooks, 232. 
Pittsburgh and Ohio River, 735. 
Pittsburgh City Hall, 740. 
Pittsburgh C. H., 720. 
Pittsburgh, Penn., 710, 711, 738. 
Pittsburgh P. O., 721. 
Pittsfield C. H., Mass., 345. 
Pittsfield, Mass., 374, 345, 346. 



Placer Mining, 87. 

Plankinton House, 898. 

Plateau du Coteau du Missouri, 

657- 
Plateaus, Utah, 834. 
Plate Glass, 245, 246, 759. 
Platte Purchase, Mo., 444. 
Platte River, 106, 523, 530. 
Plattsburg, N. Y., 580, 601. 
Plattsmouth Bridge, 529. 
Plimpton Mfg. Co., 141. 
Pliocene Bluffs, Nev., 536. 
Plows, 243, 290. 
Plymouth, 341, 340, 346. 
Plymouth Rock, Mass., 341, 343. 
Pocahontas, 853. 
Poe Monument, 333. 
Point Clear, Ala., 32. 
Point of Rocks, Md., 328. 
Poland Paper Co., Me., 320. 
Poland Spring, Me., 315. 
Polk, Tomb of President, 798. 
Ponca Wigwams, Okla., 694. 
Ponce De Leon, 165, 167. 
Ponce DeLeon,The, St. Aug., 175. 
Poncho Hot Springs, Col., 108. 
Ponemah Mills, Conn., 136. 
Pontchartrain, Lake, 299, 309. 
Pontiac Asylum, Mich., 406. 
Pony Express, 72, 620. 
Poole, R., & Son, Co., 338. 
Pope, Col. Albert A., 140. 
Pope Mfg. Co., 140. 
Population of chief cities (1890), 5. 
Population of U. S., 5. 
Pork-Packing Houses, 383, 244. 
Portage City, Wis., 892. 
Portage Falls, N. Y., 583. 
Postal Car, 20. 
Port-Blakeley Mills, 873. 
Porter, Fort, N. Y., 601. 
Port Huron, Mich., 416. 
Portland and Willamette River, 

707. 
Portland, Chamber of Commerce, 

Ore., 705. 
Portland City Hall, 319, 705. 
Portland, Conn., 122. 
Portland Custom House, 315. 
Portland, Me., 316, 318. 
Portland, Ore., 707. 
Portland Exposition, 707. 
Portland Harbor, Me., 318, 319. 
Portland Library, 317. 
Portland P. O., Me., 315. 
Portland,The, Portland,Ore., 708. 
Portland Union Depot, 708. 
Port-Neuf Valley, Idaho, 195, 199. 
Port Royal, S. C, 781, 783, 784, 788. 
Portsmouth, N. H., 537. 
Postal Cards, 301. 
Post, Evening, N. Y., 625. 
Post Falls, Idaho, 197, 
P. O. Department, 20, 157, 158. 
Potomac River, 149, 150, 326, 327, 

880. 
Pottawatomies, 888. 
Pottery, 674, 884. 

Potter (Thomas), Sons & Co., 760. 
Potts, Benj. F., 509, 510. 
Poughkeepsie, 586, 118, 604. ,. 

Poughkeepsie Bridge, N. Y., 607. \ 
Powell, Mai. J. W., 56. i 

Prairie du Chien, Wis., 899. 
Prairie Farm, Kan., 268. 
Prairie Region, 13. 
Prang (L.) & Co., 361. 



INDEX. 



929 



V Pratt & Letchworth, 643. 
f- Pratt & Whitney Co., 141. 

Pratt, Capt. R. H., 729. 

Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, 598, 
596- 

Pray, John H., Sons & Co., 399. 

Prescott, Ariz., 58. 

Presidents of the U. S., 11, 16, 15. 

Presidio Reservation, Cal., 91. 

Pribilofif Islands, Alaska, 52. 

Prickly Pear Cafion, Mont., 513. 

Prince of Wales, Cape, 45, 30. 

Princeton, N. J., 550. 

Princeton College, N. J., 558. 

Printed Cotton Fabrics, 760. 

Printers for Railroads, 628. 

Printing, 628, 631. 

Printing House Square, N. V., 
606. 

Prints, 760. 

Proctor, Hon. Redfield, S42, 844. 

Proctor, Vt., 844. 

Produce Exchange, N. Y., 610. 

Profile House, N. H., 538, 539,541. 

Propylaeum, Indianapolis, 237. 

Prospectors' Camp, Idaho, 199. 

Providence & Stonington Steam- 
boat Co., 619. 

Providence : from Prospect Ter- 
race, 771. 

Providence High School, 768. 

Providence Marine Corps, 768. 

Providence, R. I., 763, 765, 771, 768. 

Providence Station, Boston, 369. 

ProvidenceSteam & Gas-Pipe Co., 
778. 

Providence Worsted Mills, 776. 

Providence Washington Insur- 
ance Co., R. I., 773. 

Provincetown, Mass., 343, 347, 365. 

Provo, Utah, 838, 835, 837, 833. 

Prune-Growing, Cal., 82. 

Public Building, Phila., 736, 728. 

Public Lands, 24. 

Public Land Strip, 696. 

Public Library, New London, 127. 

Public Libraries, 362. 

Publishing Houses, 629, 372. 

Puget Sound, 867, 86g, 870. 

Pueblo, Col., 113, 115. 
\ Pueblos, 54, 567, 568, 573. 
1 Pulaski, Fort, Ga., 178, 186. 

Pulitzer, Joseph, 624. 

Pullman Building, Chicago, 215. 

Pullman Palace Car Co., 214. 

Pumps, 141, 393. 

Purcell, Okla., 696. 

Purdue Un-'v. Electrical Lab., 239. 

Purdue University, Ind., 239, 237. 

Purgatory River, Col., 106. 

Purisima, La, Cal., 70. 

Puritans, 340. 

Put-in-Bay Islands, 663, 666, 667. 

Putnam, Fort, N. Y., 18. 

Putnam Nail Works, 396. 

Putnam Park, Conn., 118, 120. 

Putnam Statue, Conn., 120. 

Puyallup Valley, 872. 

Pyramid Lake, 77, 532, 531, 534. 

Pyramid Mt., Ore., 699. 

Pyramid Park, N. D., 657. 

Qualla Reserve, N. C, 645. 
Quartermaster's Dpt., Jefferson- 

ville, 241. 
Quartz-Mining, 87. 
Queen-City Club, Gin., 666. 



Buicksilver, Cal., 87. 
uincy. 111., 208. 

Racine College, 895, 896. 
Racine, Wis., 899. 
Railroads of LI. S., 25. 
Rainbow Falls, N. Y., 585. 
Rainy Lake, Minn., 424. 
Rainier, Mt., 866, 868, 875. 
Raisins, Cal., 83, 100. 
Ralegh, Sir Walter, 645. 
Raleigh, N. C, 653, 654. 
Ramona, 78. 
Ramona Indian School, N. M., 

573- 

Rampart Range, Col., 104. 

Ramparts of the Yukon, 48. 

Randall's Island, N. Y., 593. 

Rapid City, S. D., 793, 794. 

Rappahannock River, Va., 856. 

Raton Hills, Col., 104. 

Raton, N. M., 572. 

Rattlesnake Flag, 4. 

Ravenden Springs, Ark., 64. 

Rawlins, Wyo., 908. 

Reading, Penn., 738. 

Reading P. O., 720. 

Reaper Sickles, 642. 

Record Paper, 300. 

Red Bluff, Cal., 77. 

Red Butte, Ariz., 55. 

Red Cloud, 655. 

Red Desert, Wyo., 905. 

Redding, Conn., 120. 

Red Hills, S. C, 784. 

Red River, 248, 298. 

Red River of the North, 423, 656. 

Red Sulphur Springs, 882. 

Red Wing, Minn., 422. 

Redwood Forest, 89. 

Redwood Library, R. I., 770. 

Reed & Barton, 380. 

Reelfoot Lake, Tenn., 799. 

Refrigerator-Cars, 417. 

Reid, Whitelaw, 626. 

Reid, W. T., Cal., 94. 

Rehoboth Beach, Del., 144, 145. 

Relay House, Md., 324. 

Religion in the United States, 21. 

Reno, Fort, Okla., 695. 

Reno, Nevada, 536. 

Rensselaer Polytechnic Inst., 597, 
596. 

Renton, Capt. Wm., 873. 

Representatives, 16. 

Republican River, Neb., 523. 

Revenue-Cutters, 17. 

Revenue Flag, 11. 

Revolutionary War, 6. 

Revolvers, 133, 381. 

R. I. Card Board Co., 779. 

Rhode Island: history, 763; 
name, arms, list of governors, 
765 ; descriptive, 766 ; climate, 
geology, agriculture, 767 ; gov- 
ernment, militia, charities and 
corrections, 768 ; National 
vyorks, education, 769 ; popula- 
tion, chief cities, 771 ; finances, 

772 ; railroads, manufactures, 

773 ; map, 498. 

R. I. Historical Society, 770. 
R. I. Horse-Shoe Co., 778. 
R. I. Hospital Trust Co., 77 
Rice, 182, 785. 
Rice, Ale.x. H., 390, 346. 
Rice & Hutcliins, 384. 



Rice-Kendall Co., 391. 

Rice, Wild, 893. 

Richardson, H. H., 227, 308, 375, 

379. 677. 738, 846. 
Richfield, N. Y., 589. 
Richmond, St. John's Church, 

851. 
Ridgway Library, Phila.,, 719. 
Rifles, 133. 

Riggs & Co.'s Bank, 163. 
Riley, Fort, Kan., 271. 
Rincon, Col., 105. 
Rindge Training School, 373. 
Rio Grande, 105, 106, 570, 815,811, 

812, 813, 814, 816, 818. 
Rio Pecos, 570, 817. 
Rioville, Nev., 56. 
Rio Virgen, 831, 834, 836, 838. 
Rio Virgen, Nevada, 533, 536. 
Rip Van Winkle, 584. 
Rising Fawn Furnace, Ga., 183. 
Riverside, Cal., 97. 
Riverside Park, N. Y., 590. 
Riverton, Ala., 40. 
Roach, John, Penn., 739. 
Road Carts, 244. 
Roan Mountain, 649, 650. 
Roanoke Island, N. C, 646, 647. 
Roanoke River, 856. 
Rochester, N. Y., 580, 587, 589. 
Rockcastle Springs, Ky., 277. 
Rock City, Tenn., 796. 
Rockford, 111., 207. 
Rockford Seminary, 209. 
Rock Island, 208, 218, 261. 
Rockledge, Fla., 167. 
Rockwood, Tenn., 800, 801. 
Rocky Mts., 13, 103. 
Rocky-Mountain Scenery, 512. 
Rodney, Caesar, 147, 143. 
Roger Williams, 763, 765. 
Roger-Williams Statue, 765. 
Roger-WilliamsLTniv., Tenn. , 803, 

804. 
Rogue-River Valley, Ore., 700. 
Rolled Copper, 751. 
Rollins Chapel, 542. 
Rome, Ga., 177, 179, 181, 187, 189. 
Rome, N. Y., 579, 604. 
Rookwood Pottery, 674. 
Root Mfg. Co., 639. 
Rope Transmission, 243. 
Rorke, Allen B., 746. 
Rosebud River, Mont., 510. 
Rose Polytechnic Institute, 237, 

240. 
Rosewater, Edward, 527. 
Round Knob, N. C, 649. 
Round Top, Te.xas, 816. 
Rowleysburg Bridge, Md., 327. 
Royal Gorge, Col., 107, 106. 
Rubber Shoes, 3S2. 
Rugby, Tenn., 798. 
Rumford Chemical Works, 7S0. 
Rush Across the Border, Okla., 

696, 
Russell, John, Cutlery Co., 304. 
Russian America, 43. 
Russian Castle. Sitka, 49. 
Russians, 366, 553. 
Rutgers College, N. J., 560, 559. 
Rutland, Vt., 841, 844, 845. 

Sabine Pass, 814, 813 

Sabine River, 811. 

Sackett's Harbor, N. Y., 601, 580. 

Sacramento, Cal., 91, 96. 



i 



93° 



KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Sacramento Cathedral, Sq. 

Sacs and Foxes, Okla., 694. 

Saddlery Hardware, 643. 

Safes, 774. 

Safes and Locks, 683. 

Sage-Brush State, 533. 

Sage College, 595. 

Saginaw Bay, Mich., 408, 407. 

Saguache Canon, 116. 

Saguache Range, Col., 104, 112. 

Sailors' and Soldiers' Home, 111., 

206. 
St. Albans, Vt., 845, 840, 841. 
St.-Anthony's Falls, 423, 431. 
St. Augustine, Fla., 175, 173, 169, 

165, 166. 
St. -Charles Borromeo, 733. 
St. -Clair Lake Canal, 402. 
St. -Clair River, Mich, 405, 416. 
St. Cloud, Minn., 427, 428. 
St.-Elias Alps, 13. 
St.-Elias, Mt., Alaska, 48. 
St.-George's Reef, Cal., 78. 
St. George, Utah, 838, 836. 
St. -Helena, Mount, 76. 
St. Ignace, Mich., 402. 
St.-Ignatius Church, 88. 
St. Johnsbury, Vt., 847, 845, 846. 
St. -John's Church, D. C, 151, 154. 
St. -John's College, Md., 330, 325. 
St.-John's Hospital, 517. 
St. -John's River, Fla., i6g, 171, 

172, 176. 
St. Joseph, City Hall, 448. 
St. Joseph, Mo., 454. 
St. Lawrence River, N. Y., 586. 
St. Louis, 452, 443. 
St. -Louis C. H., 447. 
St. -Louis Exposition, 451. 
St. -Louis Glohc-Democraty 451. 
St. -Louis High School, 449. 
St. Louis, Iron Mountain & 

Southern Railroad, 65, 64, 61, 68. 
St. Louis Mercantile Library, 450. 
St. Louis Museum of Fine Arts, 

45°- 
St. Louis Post-Ofifice, 446. 
St. Louis Statues, 445. 
St. Louis University, 449. 
St. Mark's School, 308. 
St. Mary's Ship-Canal, 409. 
St. Michael, Alaska, 47. 
St. Michael's and All Angels, 35, 

37- 
St. Michael's Church, 787. 
St. Nicholas Hotel, Cin., 677. 
St. Patrick's Cathedral, N. Y., 

600. 
St. Paul & Tacoma Lumber Co., 

872-3. 
St. Paul from Dayton's Bluff, 431. 
St. Paul Island, Alaska, 51. 
St. Paul, Minn., 431. 
St. Paul's Church, Bait., 329. 
St. Paul's Church, Charleston, 

785. 
St. Paul's Church, Milwaukee, 

893. 
St. Paul's School, N. H., 543, 542. 
St. Roch's Chapel, N. O., 307. 
St. Stephen's College, N. Y., 595. 
Salem, Mass., 373, 340, 342. 
Salem, Ore., 698. 
Salisbury, Conn., 121, 122. 
Salmon-Cannery, Ore., 703. 
Salmon-Falls Bridge, 545. 
Salmon-Fisheries, Ore., 703. 



Salmon Packing, 229, 703, 51. 
Salmon-River Cafion, Idaho, 194, 

196. 
Salt, 88, 269, 406, 837. 
Salt-Lake City 838, 831, 832, 833, 

834; 835, 836, 837, 532. 
Salt-licks, Ky., 279. 
Saluda Mts., 784. 
Sanatorium, Jackson, 622. 
San-Antonio City-Hall, 813. 
San Antonio de Padua, 69. 
San Antonio P. O., 814. 
San Antonio, Texas, 825, 812, 818, 

821, 822. 
San Bernardino, Cal., 100. 
Sand Coulee, Mont., 516. 
Sand Hills, S. C, 784. 
San Diego, Cal., 97, 92, 71, 6g, 78. 
San Diego Harbor, 82. 
San Diego, Hotel Coronado, 87, 

97- 
Sand Key, Fla., 168. 
Sandstones, 669. 
Sandusky, Ohio, 661, 667, 678, 668, 

671. 
Sandy Hook, N. J., 554, 551, 601. 
San Fernando Rey, Cal., 70. 
San Francisco, go, 95, 70 77, 71. 
San Francisco Harbor, 99. 
San Francisco Mint, 87. 
San Francisco Mts., Ariz., 55. 
San Francisco Solano, 70. 
San Francisco Synagogue, 92. 
San Gabriel Arcangel, 69. 
San Gabriel Mts., Cal., 76. 
San Gabriel Valley, Cal., 97. 
Sangre-de-Cristo Range, Col., 104, 

105. 
Sanitary Commission, 581. 
San Jacinto, Texas, 812. 
San Joaquin, Cal., 77. 
San Joaquin River, 77. 
San Jose, Cal., 70, 79, 97, 88. 
San-Jose Court House, 95. 
San Jose, Hotel Vendome, 79. 
San Jose, The Alameda, 79. 
San-Juan Archipelago, 870. 
San-Juan Bautista, 70, 
San Juan Capistrano, Cal., 70, 81. 
San Luis Obispo, 69, 78. 
San Luis Park, Col., 105. 
San Luis Rey, Cal., 70. 
San Miguel, Cal., 70. 
San-Miguel Church, 569. 
San- Pablo Bay, Cal., 77. 
San-Pete Valley, Utah, 834, 837, 

838. 
San Quentin, Cal., 91, 87. 
San Rafael, Cal., 70, 76. 
San Saba, 817. 
Santa Barbara, Cal., 71, 78, 79, 70, 

81, 97. 
Santa-Barbara Mission, Cal., 70. 
Santa-Barbara Springs, 89. 
Santa Catalina, Cal., 79. 
Santa Clara, Cal., 70, 79. 
Santa Clara Pueblo, N. M., 568. 
Santa Cruz, Cal., 70, 79. 
Santa-Cruz Mission, 71. 
Santa F^, 574, 831, 263, 444, 567, 

571, 572, 573. 
Santa-F^ Cathedral, N. M., 573. 
Santa-Fd Trail, 104, 264, 568. 
Santa Gertrudes Ranch, 82S. 
Santa Ines, Cal., 70. 
Santa Monica, Cal., 76, 79, 92. 
Santa Rosa, Cal., 79, 97. 



Santa Ynez Mts., Cal., 97. 

Santee Agency, 525. 

Santee River, S. C., 784. 

Santiam River, Ore, , 708. 

Sapolio, 641. 

Saratoga Battle Monument, 576. 

Saratoga, N. Y., 579. 

Saratoga Springs, N. Y., 589. 

Saratoga, Wy., 907. 

Sarony, Napoleon, 630. 

Sarpy, Peter A., 521. 

Satines, 760. 

Sault Ste. Marie, 409, 401. 

Sault Ste. Marie Ship-Canal, 409. 

Savannah, Ga., 188, 192, 186, 190, 

178, 179, 180, 181. 
Savannah River, i8i, 784 
Savings-Banks, 20. 
Saws, 751. 
Sayles's, W. F. & F. C, Bleach 

ery, 776 
Scales, 848. . 

Schenectady, N. Y., 577, 604. 
School Books, 629. 
Schooley's Mountain, N. J., 553. 
Schroon Lake, N. Y., 584. 
Schumacher (F.) & Co., 687. 
Schuylkill Arsenal, Penn., 728. 
Scott-Co. C. H., Iowa, 261. 
Scott, Fort, Kan., 272, 270. 
Scott's Bluffs, Neb., 523. 
Scott Statue, 161, 162. 
Scoville Mfg. Co., 138. 
Scranton, Penn., 738. 
Scuppernong grapes, 652. 
Sea Girt, N. J., 557. 
Sea Islands, 784, 785, 180, 182. 
Seal-Fisher's Hut, 51. 
Sea Lions, Alaska, 51. 
Seal Islands, Alaska, 52. 
Seal, The Great, 11. 
Searcy Springs, Ark., 64. 
Seattle, 876. 

Seattle Opera House, 876. 
Sea View, Wash., 869, 871. 
Secession, 6. 
Sedalia, Mo., 454. 
Seeds, 641, 230, 758, 406. 
Sellers, William, & Co., 752. 
Selma, Ala., 40, 28. 
Seltzer Springs, Cal., 89. 
Seminoles, 252, 166, 693. 
Senate, 16. 

Seneca Lake, N. Y., 585. 
Sequatchie Valley, Tenn., 798, 

800. 
Sequoia National Park, 89. 
Sequoyah, 247, 250. 
Serpent Mound, Ohio, 661. 
Settlement of America, 5. 
Seventh Reg't Armory, N. Y., 

592. 
Sevier, Ambrose H., 59, 67. 
Sevier, lohn, 796, 806. 
Sevier Valley, Utah, 835, 854, 831, , 

838. 
Sewanee, Tenn., 796, 802, 803. i 
Seward, W. H., 43. i 

Sewer-Pipe, 686. [,_ 

Sewing-Machines, 563, 775, 137, 
Shaddock, 172. 

Shade-Roller, 566. w 

Shades of Death, 721. [" 

Shadyside Plantation, La., 303. ! 
Shafting, 752. 

Shakers, 598. i 

Shakespeare Statue, 445. 



Sharon Soldiers' Mon't, 119. 
Sharon Springs, N. Y., 589. 
Shasta, Mount, 73, 76. 
Shattuck School, Minn., 429, 428. 
Shawangunk Mts., 584,604, 552. 
Shaw, Fort, Mont,, 517. 
Shaw's Garden, St. Louis, 447. 
Shaw University, N. C, 654. 
Shays' RebeUion, 343. 
Shell Road, Mobile, 29, 35. 
Shell Road, N. O., 309. 
Sheep-shearing Corrals, 197. 
Sheetings, 386. 
Sheffield, Ala., 39. 
Sheffield Hall, Yale, 125. 
Sheffield Hotel, Ala., 39. 
Sheffield Land, Iron & Coal Co., 

39, 40. 
Sheldon Springs, Vt., 843. 
Shenandoah Valley, Va., 855. 
Shepherd, Alex. R., 150. 
Sherborn Reformatory, 350, 352. 
Sheridan, Fort, 111., 208. 
Sheridan, Mt., Wyo., 910. 
Sherman, Fort, Idaho, 199. 
Sherman quoted, 26. 
Sherwin-Williams Co., 688. 
Shillito (John) Co , Cin., 689. 
Shiloh, Tenn., 796. 
Ship Island, Mi§s., 437, 438, 439. 
Shirtings, 386. 
Shoalwater Bay, 869, 870. 
Shi)e-Pactories, 320, 459, 384. 
Shoe- Fly Tunnel, W. Va., 882. 
Shorter College, Ga., 187, 189. 
Short Hills, N. J., 553, 566. 
Shoshone Falls, Idaho, 196. 
Shoshones, 200. 
Shovels,' 379. 
Shreveport, La., 310. 
Shrimp, 785, 816. 
Shrine, Santa Cruz, N. M., 568. 
Shufeldt, (H. H.) & Co., 230. 
Shultz Belting Co., 460. 
Shumagin Islands, 45. 
Shurtleft' College, 209. 
Sibley Bridge, Mo., 445. 
Sibley, H. H., 419, 420. 
Sickles, 690. 

Sierra Blanca, Col., 104, 103. 
Sierra Blanca, Te.\as, 813. 
Sierra Madre, Cal., 76, 77, 97. 
Sierra Madre Church, 89. 
Sierra Nevada, 73. 
Signal Service, 21. 
Signal System, 755. 
Silk, 135, 136, 561, 378, 387, 86, 417, 

563. 
Sill, Fort, Okla., 695. 
Silver-Bow Canon, Mont., 515. 
Silver Gate, Cal., 98. 
Silver Mines, Cal., 87. 
Silver-Plated Ware, 135. 
Silver-Smiths' Art, 634. 
Silver Spring, Fla., 166, 172. 
Silver State, Nevada, 533. 
Silverware, 633, 135. 
Simpson (Wm.), Sons, & Co., 760. 
Singerly Building, 722. 
Singer Mfg. Co., 563. 
Sinsinnewa Mound, Wis., 889. 
Siou.t, 427, 509, 793, 521, 419, 421, 

655- 
Siou.x City, Iowa, 258, 261. 
Siou.x City, Y. M C. A., 262. 
Sioux Falls, S. D., 791, 792, 789, 

792i 793. 794- 



INDEX. 

Sioux National Bank, 262. 

Sioux Reservation, 790, 791, 793. 

Sioux State, 656. 

Sitka, Alaska, 52, 49, 50, 51. 

Sitka, Training School, 49, 50. 

Six Nations, >r Y., 575, 578. 

Skaneateles Lake, N. Y., 585. 

Skinner, Wm., Mfg. Co., 387. 

Skoot Kali's Totem, Alaslta, 50. 

Slater, John F., 127. 

Slater, Samuel, 773. 

Slavery, 71. 

Sleepy Hollow, 577, 582. 

Slope Mine, Ga., 183. 

Sloss Iron & Steel Co., 35, 36. 

Smelting of Jewelers' Sweepings, 
779- 

Smelting Works, 114, 268. 

Smith & Wesson, 381. 

Smith, Capt. John, 340, 849, 537, 
3"- 

Smith College, 357, 356. 

Smithfield Church, V^a., 855. 

Smith, Fort, Ark., 67. 

Smith, Joseph, 833. 

Smithsonian Institute, 158, 159. 

Smoky Hill Fork, 269, 266. 

Snake River, 867, 869, 834, 195, 
196, 199, 698, 701, 702. 

Snelling, Fort, Minn., 420, 423, 
425- 

Soap, 564, 641 

Socorro, N. M., 572, 57.;. 

Soda, 88, 640. 

Soda Lake, Nev., 533. 

Soda Springs, Idaho, 195. 

Soft Steel, 750. 

Soledad, Cal., 70. 

Somerset Club, 359, 360. 

Somerville, Mass., 342, 344. 

Sonoma, Cal., 71. 

Sons of Liberty, 578. 

Soule, Pierre, 293. 

Sour Lake, Te.xas, 817. 

Sour Springs, Texas, 817. 

South Bend, Ind., 239, 243, 242. 

South Bethlehem, Penn., 747. 

South Carolina : history, 781 ; 
name, arms, list of governors, 
descriptive, 783 ; climate, farm- 
ing, 785 ; minerals, 786 ; govern- 
ment, education, 787; railroads, 
chief cities, manufactures, 788 ; 
map, 499. 

South Carolina University, 785, 
788. 

South Dakota : history, 789 ; 
name, governors, seal, descrip- 
tive, 790; agriculture, climate, 
minerals, 791 ; government, 
792 ; education, chief cities, 793 ; 
railroads, 794 ; map, 500. 

Southdown Plantation, 302. 

Southern Bank of Ga., 191. 

Southern Bapt. Theol. Sem., 284, 
288. 

Southern California, 72, 81. 

Southern Iron Co., Tenn., 801. 

Southern Pacific R. R., 98. 

Southern University, 30, 34. 

South Manchester, Conn., 135. 

South Park, Col., 105. 

South Park station. 111., 219. 

South Pass, La., 299, 831. 

South Pass, Wyo., 903, 904. 

South Side Plantation, 304, 305. 

Spalding. (A, G.) & Bros., 232. 



91"^ 

Spain, 551. 

Spanish Fort, N. O., 295. 

Spanish Peaks, Col., 104. 

Spar Buoy, 24. 

Sparrow's Point, Md., 338, 749. 

Spartanburg, S. C, 782, 788. 

Spencer House, Niagara Falls, 

587- 
Spirit Lake, Iowa, 254, 255, 256. 
Spiritualists, 368, 598. 
Spiritual 'I emple. First, 375. 
Split Rock, Me., 314. 
Spokane County, 8fg. 
Spokane Falls, Wash., 877. 
Spokane River, 196. 
Sponge-Fishing, Fla., 169. 
Sprague, Warner & Co., 229. 
Spreckels' Sugar Refinery, Phil., 

746. 
Springer Music Hall, Cin., 675. 
Springfield Armory, 349. 
Springfield Emery Wheel Co., 140. 
Springfield Fire and Marine Ins. 

Co., 377. 
Springfield, 111., 207, 20S, 216. 
Springfield, Mass., 374, 340, 343, 

349. 352. 
Springfield Post-Office, 664. 
Spring-Hill College, Ala., 32, 34. 
Springville, Utah, 835, 837. 
Spring-Wheat Flour, 433. 
Squire, John P., & Co., 383. 
Squirrel Hunters, Ohio, 665. 
Staats-Zeit u )i g^ N. Y., 626. 
Stage-coaches, 546. 
Stagg (Geo. T.) Co., 292. 
Staked Plain, Texas, 570, 817. 
Stamford, Conn., 130. 
Stamped Envelopes, 141, 391. 
Stampede Pass, Wash., 878. 
Standard Club, Chicago, 205. 
Standish Monument, Mass., 6, 341. 
Stansbury Island, Utah, 835. 
Star Elevator, 433. 
Stark, John, 840. 
Starr King, Mount, Cal., 74. 
Star-SJ>angled Banner, The, 323, 

95- 
Starucca Viaduct, Penn., 740,712. 
Starved Rock and 111. River, 111., 

202. 
Star, Washington, 164. 
State Industrial Exposition, 111., 

204. 
Staten Island. N. Y., 578, 588. 
State Normal University, 111., 203. 
State of Camden & Amboy, 551. 
State, War and Navy Depart- 
ments, is6. 
Stave-Making, 298. 
Steam and Gas Fittings, 225, 392. 
Steamboat Springs, Col., 109. 
Steam Engines, 774. 
Steamshipss 14S, 417, 739. 
Steelton, Penn., 749. 
Stein Mts., Ore., 701. 
Steinway & Sons, 635. 
Sterling Silver, 380. 
Stetson, John B., Co., 761. 
Stetson, John B., University, 762. 
Stevens, Gen. I. I., 865, 866. 
Stevens Institute of Technology, 

556, 560. 
Stewart, A. T., N. Y., 598. 
Stockbridge Indians, 888. 
Stockbridge, Mass., 346. 
Stock Exchange, N. v., 609. 



932 



AVJVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNIT ED STATES. 



717- 



119. 



Stock Exchange, Old, Phila. 

Stock-Farms, 800, 805. 

Stock Ranche, Idaho, igj. 

Stock Range, 267. 

Stockton, Cal., 97, 82, 77. 

Stock- Yards, 86, 258. 

Stogies, 8B4. 

Stone Arch Bridge, 429. 

Stone Bridge, Milford, Conn 

Stone Mountain, Ga., 180. 

Stonington, Conn., 130. 

Stoniiigton Line, 369, 128, 620. 

Stony Point, N. Y., 579. 

Storer College, W. Va., 883. 

Storm Lake, Neb., 522. 

Stove-Making, 644. 

Stoves, 901, 644. 

Stowe, Vt., 842. 

Straw Board, 684. 

Straw-Board Lumber, 684. 

Straw Goods, 387. 

Street-Lighting, 755. 

Strobridge Lithographing Co., 

6go. 
Structural Iron and Steel, 750. 
Stuart, Edwin S., 743. 
Studebaker Bros. Mfg. Co., 243, 

220. 
Sturtevant (B. F.) Co., 381. 
Stuyvesant, Peter, 577, 118. 
Sub-Treasury, N. Y., 626. 
Suffolk Cordage Co., 388. 
Suffolk County Court House, 351. 
Sugar and Rice Exchange, N. O., 

300. 
Sugar Factors, 305. 
Sugar Farm, Government, 300. 
Sugar-Houses, 305. 
Sugar Land, 820. 
Sugar Loaf, Minn., 421. 
Sugar Plantations, 820. 
Sugar-Raising, 302. 
Sugar-River Bridge, 544. 
Suisun Bay, Cal., 77. 
Sully & Toledano, 305, 309, 807. 
Sulphur, 88. 
Sultan Mountain, 103. 
Sumter, Fort, S. C, 782. 
Sunapee Lake, N. H., 541, 540. 
Sztn^ Baltimore, 164. 
Sun- Dance, I. T., 248. 
Sunday-School L'nion, American, 

734- 
Sunflower State, 265. 
Sun, New York, 626. 
Sunnyside, 577. 
Sunset State, 699. 
Sunshine State, 569. 
Superior, Lake, 403, 424. 
Surprise Valley, Cal., 92. 
Surveyors' instruments, 637. 
Suspension Bridge, Minneapolis, 

423- 
Suspension Bridge, N. Y., 607. 
Susquehanna Bridge, Penn., 713. 
Susquehanna River, 325, 713, 719. 
Susquehanna Valley, 717. 
Sutro Tunnel, Nevada, 536. 
Suwanee River, Fla., 170, 181, 

167. 
Swanton, Vt., 842, 845. 
Swarthmore College, 729, 731. 
Sweet-Grass Hills, Mont., 512. 
Sweet Springs, Mo., 448. 
Sweetwater Dam, Cal., 84, 98. 
Switzerland of America, 880. 
Synagogue Anshe Maariv, 214. 



Synod ical College, Ala., 40. 
Syracuse Beach, L'tah, 835. 
Syracuse, N. Y., 575, 604. 
Syracuse University, N. Y., 595. 

Tacks, 395. 

Tacoma Land Co., 877. 

Tacoma, Mt., 866, 867, 875, 13. 

Tacoma, New Hotel, 877. 

Taftville, Conn., 136. 

Tags, 391. 

Tahichipi Pass, Cal., 98, 

Tahlequah, I. T., 249, 250. 

Tahlequah Seminary, 250. 

Tahoe Lake, 74, 77, 532, 534. 

Talladega, Ala., 32, 34. 

Tallahassee, Fla., 173, 176, 174. 

Tallahatchie, Miss., 440. 

Tallapoosa, Ga., 179, 191. 

Tallapoosa River, 30, 181. 

Tallulah Falls, Ga., 181. 

Tampa Bay, Fla., 167, 165. 

Tampa, Fla., 176. 

Taney Monument, Md., 333. 

Tanneries, 228, 900. 

Taos Pueblo, N. M., 569. 

Tappan Zee, N. Y., 585. 

Tate Epsom Spring, Tenn., 802. 

Tate, Ga., 184. 

Taughannock Falls, N. Y., 588. 

Taylor Cotton Compress, Tex., 
826. 

Taylor (E. H.), Jr., Co., 292. 

Taylor, Fort, Fla., 175, 174. 

Taylor (N. & G.) Co., 754. 

Tchula, Lake, Miss., 440. 

Teachers' Assembly, N. C, 646. 

Technology, Ga. School of, 187. 

Technology, Mass. Inst., 355, 356. 

Telegraph Hill, 84. 

Telescope, Lick Observatory, 93. 

Telescopes and Domes, 681. 

Telfair Art Gallery, 182, 188. 

Temple Emanuel, N. Y., 606. 

Tennessee : history, 795 ; name, 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 797 ; climate, farm-crops, 
799 ; minerals, 800 ; government, 
802 ; common schools, 803 ; na- 
tional, chief cities, 804 ; rail- 
roads, 808 ; manufactures, 809 ; 
map, 477. 

Tennessee Club, Memphis, 804. 

Tennessee Pass, Col., 104, 106,112. 

Tenn. Producers' Marble Co., 801. 

Tennessee River, 796, 798, 806, 278! 

Tennessee Valley, m, 30, 31, 39, 41. 

Tenney, C. H., & Co., 639. 

Terre-Haute Court House, 235. 

Terre Haute, Ind., 236, 238, 239, 
240. 

Teton Range, 905. 

Texas : history, 811 ; name, 813 ; 
list of presidents and gover- 
nors, descriptive, 814 ; climate, 
minerals, 8i8 ; agriculture, 819 ; 
government, 820; education, 
821 ; United-States institutions, 
chief cities, 822 ; newspapers, 
finances, 826 ; railroads, 827 ; 
cattle-raising, 828 ; lumber, 820 ; 
manufactories, 830 ; map, 503. 

Texas & Pacific Railway, 310, 813, 
827, 816, 820, 821. 

Texas-Central Railway, 828. 

Texas Trail, Neb., 525. 

Texas Tram & Lumber Co., 829. 



Texas, University of, 816, 821. 
Text Books, 629. 
Thames Bridge, Conn., 122, 129. 
Thames River, Conn., 121, 117, 

124, 129, 130. 
Theatrical Advertising, 690. 
Thomas (Gen.) Statue, 161, 162. 
Thomasville, Ga., 189. 
Thompson, Daniel, 303, 304. 
Thomson-Houston Electric Co., 

379- 
Thousand Islands, N. Y., 584, 583, 

581, 586. 

Thousand Wells, Ariz., 57. 

Thread, 135. 

Three Brothers, 75. 

Three Buttes, Idaho, 195. 

Three Forks of the Missouri, 511. 

512- 
Threshing-Machines, 901. 
Threshing Wheat, 14, 658. 
Thurber-Whyland Co., 640. 
Thwaites, Reuben G., 895. 
Ticonderoga, Fort, N. Y., 577, 578, 

582, 839. 

Tide-Water Oil Co., 562, 563. 
Tide- Water Pipe Co., 562. 
Tidewater Virginia, 854. 
Ticknor & Co., 372. 
Tiffany & Co., 633, 792. 
Tillamook Light-house, 24. 
7'iiiies-Dcmocraty New Orleans, 

308. 
Times, New York, 624. 
Timothy Grass, 646. 
Tin, 792. 

Tinicum, Penn., 709. 
Tintic, Utah, 837. 
Tipple and Loading Chute, 723. 
Tishomingo, I. T., 251. 
Tivoli Hosiery Mills, 639. 
Tobacco, 122, 279, 301, 280, 458, 

564, 646, 652, 720, 739. 
Toccoa Falls, Ga., 181. 
Togus Springs, Me., 317. 
Toledo Library, 666. 
Toledo, Ohio, 671, 678, 402. 
Toltec Gorge, 112. 
Tombigbee River, 30, 440. 
Tombs, 797, 798. 
Tombs, N. Y., 580. . 
Tombstone, Ariz., 58. 
Tonawanda, N. Y.,408, 623. 
Tonto Basin, Ariz., 57. 
Tools and Machinery, 141. 
Topeka Cathedral, 264. 
Topeka, Kan., 269, 271. 
Topeka, P. O., 269. 
Torpedo Boats, 777. 
Torpedo-School, R. I., 769. 
Totten, Fort, N. D.,657. 
Tougaloo, Miss., 442.' 
Tower, Minn., 426. 
Training School, Naval, 769. 
Transylvania University, Ky., 

283. 
Travelers' Insurance Co., 131. 
Traveling Cranes, 680. 
Treasury Department, 156. 
Treasury St., St. Aug., 176. 
Trempealeau, Wis., 892. 
Trenton Falls, N. Y., 587. 
Trenton, N. J., 556, 557, 558, 561, 

55°- 
Trihutie, N. Y., 626. 
Trinidad, Col., 113. 
Trinity Church, Boston, 367. 



Trinity Church, N. Y., 600, 598. 
Trinity College, Hartford, 126. 
Trinity River, Texas, 815, 824. 
Trinity University, Tex., 822. 
Troy, N. Y., 604. 
Truckee River, 77. 
Trumbull, Jonathan, 117, 119, 7. 
Trust Companies, 613, 744. 
Tryon Mountain, N. C, 651. 
Tubbs Cordage Co., 100. 
Tucson, Ariz., 58, 54, 57. 
Tufts College, Mass., 356. 
Tugaloo River, Grand Chasm, 

179. 
Tulane University, N. O., 307. 
Tulare City, Cal., 100. 
Tulare Lake, Cal., 77, 100. 
Tulsa, Creek Nation, 252. 
Turner, Day & Woolworth, 290. 
Turpentine, 651, 784, 652. 
Turquoises, 572. 

Turtle Mountains, N. D.,656, 657. 
Turtles, 169, 815. 
Tuscarora Valley, Penn., 717. 
Tuskaloosa, Ala., 40, 34, 33, 30, 28, 

38. 
Tuskegee, Ala., 34. 
Twelfth Regt. Armory, N. Y., 

592. 
22d Regiment Armory, 581. 
Twin Kails, Idaho, 196. 
Twin Lakes, Col., 107. 
Tyler-Davidson Fountain, 667. 
Tyndall, Mount, Cal., 74. 
Type-Foundry, 742. 
Type-Setting, 631. 

Uintah Mts., Lhah, S33, 836, 905. 
Umatilla Valley, Ore., 700. 
Umpqua River, Ore., 702. 
Umpqua Valley, Ore., 700. 
Unaka Mts., 798, 802, 649. 
Unalashka, 45, 49. 
Uncle Sam, 7. 

Uncompahgre Mt., Col., 104. 
Uncompahgre River, Col., 106. 
LTnga, Alaska, 45, 49. 
Union Baptist Theol. Sem., 111., 

210. 
Union Cotton-Seed-Oil Mill, 301. 
Union Defence Committee, 581. 
Union Depot, Birmingham, 33. 
Union Depot, Providence, 772. 
Union League, Chicago, 205. 
Union League Club, N. Y., 607. 
L'nion League, Phila., 726. 
Union Loan & Trust Co., Sioux 

City, 262. 
Union Metallic Cartridge Co., 

Conn., 134. 
Union Pacific Bridge, Omaha, 

527- 
Union Railway Depot, Pueblo, 

116. 
Union Station, P. F.-W. & C. and 

C, B. & Q. R. R., 219. 
Union Stock- Yards, Chicago, 213, 

212 ; San Francisco, 86 ; Sioux 

City, 258 ; South Omaha, 525. 
Union Theol. Sem., N. Y., 595, 597. 
Unitarian Building, 365. 
Unitarian Church, 366. 
United Bank Building, N. Y.,6ii. 
United States : discovery and 

settlement 5 ; name and pet 

naines, 7 ; great seal, flag, list 

of presidents, 11 ; description, 



INDEX. 

topographical divisions, 12 ; 
climate, agriculture, minerals, 
14 ; government, 16 ; army, 
navy, pensions, revenue-cutters, 
exports, 17 ; post-oftice depart- 
ment, light -house board, fi- 
nances, life saving service, 20 ; 
signal-service, education, news- 
papers, religion, 21 ; immi- 
grants, public lands, centre of 
population, 24; railroads, manu- 
factories, cities, 25 ; map, 8 ; 
historical map, 10. 

U. S. Grant Univ., Tenn., 804. 

U. S. Life-Saving Service, 555, 20. 

\5 . S. Maps, 2, 4, 10. 

V. S. Military Academy, 18, 17, 599. 

U. S. Naval Academy, 17, 22, 332. 

U. S. Powder Depot, N. J., 558. 

U. S. Rolling Stock Co., 37. 

United States Trust Co., 613. 

Universalism, 367. 

University of Ala., 34, 38; Cal., 
94, 02 ; Cin., 673 ; Ga., 187 ; Har- 
vard, 353, 354 ; 111., 208, 209 ; 
Iowa, 260; Kan., 269, 270; 
Mich., 412; Minn., 425, 428; 
Miss., 441, 442 ; Mo., 449, 450 ; 
Nashville, 803 ; Neb., 525, 526; 
N. C, 653 ; N. D., 659 ; Notre 
Dame (Ind.), 239, 238 ; Ore., 
705 ; Penn., 729, 730, 732 ; Roch- 
ester, 595 ; the South, 802, 803, 
796; S. Dakota, ^93; Tenn., 
802, 803 ; City of N Y., 593 ; the 
Pacific, 93 ; Vermont, 843, 845 ; 
Washington, 895; Wis., 892, 875; 
Yale, 124. 

Unknown Dead, Monument, 854. 

Ursuline Convent, New Orleans, 
297. 

Utah : history, 831 ; name, 832 ; 
arms, list of governors, descrip- 
tive, 833; climate, farming, min- 
ing, 836 ; government, educa- 
tion, 837; National institutions, 
chief cities, railroads, manufac- 
tures, 838 ; map, 501. 

Utah Lake, 831, 833, 834, 835. 

Utes, 838. 

Utica, N. Y., 604. 

Valley of Virginia, 855. 

Valverde, N. M., 568. 

Vancouver, George, 865. 

Vancouver, Wash., 875. 

Vanderbilt University, 802, 804, 
803. 

Van Dusen (G. W.) & Co., 433. 

Vassar College, N. Y., 595, 597. 

Vendome, Hotel, Boston, 374. 

Vendome, Hotel, San Jose, 79. 

Vermillion Cliffs, Ariz., 56. 

Vermillion Falls, Minn., 422. 

Vermillion, Minn., 426. 

Vermont : history, 839 ; name, 
arms, governors, 841 ; descrip- 
tive, 842; climate, farming, 843; 
quarries, 844 ; government, 
chief cities, education, 845 ; 
railroads, 846 ; mfg. 846 ; map, 
506. 

Vermont Marble Co., 844. 

Vcspucius, 7. 

Veta Pass, Col., 107. 

Vick, James, Seedsman, 641. 

Vicksburg, Miss., 438, 442. 



933 

Vigilance Committee, 72. 

\'illa-Nova College, 733. 

Vincennes City Hall, 236. 

Vincennes, Ind., 233, 234, 236,238. 

Vineland, N-. J., 553, 558, 561. 

Vine-Planting, Cal,, 84. 

Vinita, I. T., 250. 

Virginia : history, 849 ; name, 
arms, 853 ; list of governors, 
topography, 854 ; climate, agri- 
culture, 857; minerals, pleasure- 
resorts, 858 ; government, 859 ; 
Virginia Volunteers, United- 
States institutions, 860 ; educa- 
tion, 861 ; railroads, 863 ; manu- 
factures, 864 ; map, 505. 

Virginia City, Nev., 536. 

Volcanoes, 868, 48. 

]'olunteei\ 359. 

Volunteer State, 707. 

Vulcanized Rubber, 382. 

Wabash College, Ind., 237, 240. 
Wabash River, 236. 
Wachusett, Mount, Mass., 346. 
Waco, Texas, 824, 817, 822. 
Wadsworth Athenreum, Hart- 
ford, 124, 127. 
Wadsworth, Fort, N. Y.,6co, 603. 
Wagon Mound, N. M., 568. 
Wagon-Wheel Gap, Col., 108, 109. 
Wagon-Works, 243. 
Wahsatch Mts., Utah, 833, 834, 835, 

836. 
VVaitsburgh, Wash., 871. 
Wake Forest College, N. C, 654. 
Wakulla Spring, Fla., 172. 
Walden's Ridge, 798, 800, 802. 
Walker Lake, Nevada, 531, 534. 
Walker Oakley Co., 228. 
Walker (Wm. R.) & Son, 771. 
Walla Walla, 867, 868, 869. 
Wallack, Lester, 623. 
Walled Lake, Iowa, 256. 
Wallowa Lake, Ore., 701. 
Wall Street, N. Y.,609, 626. 
Waltham, Mass., 373. 
Waltham Watches, 380. 
Walworth Mfg. Co., 392. 
Wamsutta Mills, 386. 
Wanamaker, John, 762. 
War Department, 156. 
Ward's Island, N. Y., 593. 
Warner & Swasey, 68i, 93, 124, 

160, 329, 357, 428. 
War of 1812, 6. 
Warren, Fort, 353. 
Warren, Hail Library, 765. 
War-Ships, 739, 723. 
Washburn & Moen Mfg. Co., 378. 
Washburn, C. C, 433, 896, 889. 
Washburn-Crosby Co., 433. 
Washburne, Mt., 910. 
Washington and Jefferson Col 

lege, 731. 
Washington Bridge, N. Y., 588 

608. 
Washington, D. C, 149. 
Washington Elm, Cambridge, 342 
Washington, Fort, Md., 333. 
Washington, George, 15, 663, 342 

852. 
Washington, Martha, 149. 
Washington Monument, D. C. 

160, 161. 
Washington Mon't, Richmond 

856. 



KlNG^S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



934 

Washington, Mount,N.H.,539,S43- 
Washington Rock, N. J-, 553- 
Washington's Church, 851, 852. 
Washinlton's Headquarters, 55°, 

581- 
Washington Statue, 342- 
Washington's Tomb, 850. 
wllhington University, Mo., 451. 
Washington Viaduct, 324- 
Wash. Water-Power Co., 877. 
Washoe Lake, Nevada, 534- 
Wason Car Works, 381. 
Watches, 380. „ i aa 

Watch-Hill Point, R. I-, 766. 

Watch Hill, R. I.. 772- 

Waterbury, Conn , 130- 

Waterbury City Hall, 128. 

Watermelon Culture, 1S5, 1S3. 

Water-Tower, Milwaukee, 893^ 

Watertown, Mass., 341 > 345- 352. 

Watertown, N. Y., 604. 

Watertown, S. D., 793. 7q4- 

Water-Tube Steam-Boilers, 505- 

Watervliet, N. Y., 600. 

Water-Works, 393- ^^ 



Watkins Glen, - - 
Watlerson, Henry, 284. 
Waukesha, Wis., 890, 891, 895, 9°2. 
Wayne, Anthony, 579- 
Wayne, Fort, Ind., 234, 23b. 
Wayside Inn, 342. 
Weapons, 133, i4.i- 
Weather predictions, 21. 
Webfoot State, 699. 
Webster, Daniel, 339- 342, 542- 
Webster's Home, 384. 
Webster's (Noah) Birthplace, 119. 
Webster's Statue, 542- 
Wellesley College, 356, 357- 
Wells College 598. 
Wells, Fargo & Co., 96, 620, 97. 
Wells (M. D.) & Co., 228. 
Wentworth Mansion, 541. 
Wesleyan Academy, Mass., 358- 
Wesleyan Female College, Oa., 
187, 189. . _ f- 

Wesleyan University, Conn., 126. 
Wesleyan University, Neb., 524- 
Westerly, R. J-, 767,768. 
Western & Atlantic R. R., 190- 
Western Cement Works, 289. 
Western Reserve, 662, 668, iig- 
Western Reserve Univ., 672, 673. 
West-Eureka Colliery, 723- 
Western Theol. Sem., 208, 733- 
West, George, 6j2. 
Westmoreland Coal Co ,723, 724- 
Weston, Byron, Paper-MiUs, 39°- 
Weston, Janies A., 539, 544- 
West Point Mill Co., S. C, 786. 
West Point, N. Y., 599, i7, ", 118, 

West Publishing Co., St.Paul, 430. 
West Quoddy Light, Me., 312, 313- 
West Rock, Conn., 121. 
West Superior, Wis., 899, 902. 
West Virginia : history, 879 ; 
pet name, arms, list of gov- 
ernors, descriptive, 880; climate, 
farms, mineral springs 881 ; 
minerals, 882; government, edu- 
cation, 883 ; chief cities, rail 
roads, 884 ; map, 505- 
West-Va. University, 884, 883. 
Wetumpka, Ala., 28, 30, 33. 
Wewoka, L T., 252. 
Weyer's Cave, Va., 855. 



Wharton R. R. Switch Co., 754- 
Wheat Raising, 658. 
Wheelbarrows, 682. 
Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co., 137- 
Wheeling Bridge, 883. 
WheelinI, City Buildings, 884. 
Wheeling, P. O., 882. 
WheelinI, W. Va., 884, 882. 
Wheel-Making, 226. 
Whetstones, 66. 
Whidby Island, Wash., 870. 
Whiskey, 292, 758. ^ 
Whiskey Insurrection, 711- 
White-Bear Lake, Minn., 422, 424- 
White Hills, Texas, 818. 
White, Horace, 625- 
White House, D. C, 152. 158. 
While House, Va., 852. 
White Lead, 687. 
White-Mt. Freezer Co., 540- 
White Mountains, CaL, 76. 
White Mountains, N. H., 530, 5j9i 
White River, Ark., 61, 60, 63. 
White River, Col., 106. 
White- Rock Canon, Mont., 514- 
White Squadron, 23. 
White (S.S.) Dental Mfg. Co., 759. 
White Sulphur Springs, Cal.. 89. 
White Sulphur Springs, 881. 
Whiting, John L., & Son, 397. 
Whiting Mfg. Co ,634. 
Whitin Machine Works, 385- 
Whitman & Barnes Co., 642, 690. 
Whitman, Marcus, 698. 
Whitney Glass-Works, 564. 
Whitney, Mount, Cal., 73, 74- 
Whittier, John G., 128. 
Whittier Machine Co., 392- 
Whitworth College, Miss., 440. 



Winnemucca Lake, Nev., 533, 534- 
Winnepesaukee Lake, 539, S4o- 
Winner Bridge, Mo., 452- 



vv iimci ui lufe^, - --•' -r.^ 
Winner Building, Mo., 453- 
Winner Investment Co., Mo., 453 



Wichita City Hah, 265. 
Wichita Mountains, Okla., 695 



Wichitas, 695. 
Wilderness, Va., 851. 
Wilkes-Barre, Penn., 738. 
Willamette Bridge, 705. 
Willamette Falls, Ore., 707- 
Willamette River, Ore., 698, 702. 
Willamette University, Ore., 705- 
Willamette Valley, Ore., 7°°^ 
Willcox (The James M.) Paper 

Co., 742- . XT ^r £ 

Willett's Point, N. Y-, 600. 
Wm Penn Charter School, 732. 
Williams & Wood, Oregon, 701. 
Williamsburg, Va., 853. 
Williams College, 354, 356- 
Williams, Roger, 763, 765, 34i- 
Willimantic Linen Co., 135- 
Willoughby, Lake, Vt., 842. 
Wilmington, Del., 147, i43, i44- 
Wilmington C. H , i47- 
Wilmington High School, 146. 
Wilmington, N.C. 647, 649 655- 
Wilmington P.-O., N. C., 64b. 
Wilminlton Railway Station,i48. 
Wilson's Creek, Mo., 445- 
Winchester, Conn., 120. 
Winchester, Mass., 346. 
Winchester Repeating Arms Co.. 

133, 134- „ 
Wind drap, Penn., 7-9- 
Windlasses, 779- 
Wind-River Mts., 905. 
Windsor, Vt., 845. 
Wine, 84, 85, 457- 
Winnebagoes, 885, 888. 
Winnebago Lake, Wis., 890. 



vv lllUtl AllVV,^^ - 

Winona, Minn., 428, 434- 
Winooski, Vt., 847. 
Winsted, Conn., 120, 122, 130. 
Winter Park, Fla., 174- „ 
Winter Quarters of Barnum s 

Circus, 142. 
Winthrop, John, 3,39, 34o- 
Winyaw Bay, S. C, 784. 
W^ire, 378. T 

V/isconsin : history, 885 ; In- 
dians, name, arms, list of gov- 
ernors, 888; descriptive 889; 
summer-resorts, 890; climate, 
farming, minerals, 893 ; govern- 
ment, 894; education, 895; news- 
papers, 897 ; chief cities 898 , 
railways, 899 ; hnances, manu- 
factures, poo ; map, 482. 
Wisconsin Capitol, 885. 
Wisconsin Central R- R-.2'9. 899- 
Wisconsin Historical Society, 89J. 
Wis. Marine & Fire Ins. Co. s 

Bank, 900. 
\ 1 -isconsui , newspaper , 897 . 
Wisconsin River, 892, 886. 
Wissahickon Creek, 716. 
Wissahickon Drive, Phila., 736. 
Witches' Gulch, Wis., 890. 
Wizard Island, Ore., 701. 
Woburn Public Library, 373- 
Wolverine State, 402. 
Woman's Medical College, 733- 
Wood, Brown & Co., 761. 
Woodburn, Ky., 283, 282. 
Wood (R. D.) & Co., 213, 565- 
Wood's Hoh, Mass., 354- 
Wood Split Pulleys, 243. 
Woodstock College, Md., 33°- 
Woodstock Library, Vt., 843, 846. 
Wood, Walter A., Mowing and 

Reaping Machine Co., 643- 
Woolen Fabrics, 387, 776, 246, 847- 
Worcester, Mass., 374- 
iror/rf Building, N. Y. 624. 
Worth, Lake, Fla, 176. 
Wrangell, Mt., Alaska, 13, 48, 49- 
Wyandotte, Cave, Ind., 234, 237. 
Wyoming: history, 903 ; name, 
arms, geography, 904 ; ^',""^^'f '. 
mining, 906 ; government, 907 , 
Sucation, chief cities,railroads 
go8 ; Yellowstone National 
Park, QIC ; nap, 508- 
Wyoming Valley, 7'°, 712, 7i7- 



Yacht Volunteer U^ss. 359- 
Yakima Valley, Wash., 868. 
Yale University, 125, 124- 
Yankton, S. D., 794, 789, 79°, 792- 
Yazoo Delta, Miss., 439- 
Yellowstone Falls, 911. 
Yellowstone Lal.e, 910 912. 
Yellowstone Nat. Park, 91", '94- 
Yellowstone River, 911, 513- 
' York River, Va., 856. 
Yosemite Valley, 74, 75- 

Young, Brighan, 831, 833, 83a. 

Youth's Companion, V^. 

Yukon River, Alaska, 48, 47, 5°- 

Yuma, 56, 57, 58, 88, 54, 81. 

Zion's Coop. Institution, 832, 838. 



Illustrations of Great General Features 



INDEXED BY TOPICS. 



Cities and Towns : 

Albany, N. V'., 6og. 
Arkansas City, Kan., 268. 
Ashland, Wis.. 898. 
Asheville, N. C., 650. 
Atlanta, Ga., 190. 
Atlantic City, l^T. J., 553. 
Bismarck, N. D., 659. 
Boise, Ida., 199. 
Boonton, N. J., 555. 
Bozeman, Mont., 520. 
Buffalo, N. Y., 608. 
Burlington, la., 254. 
Butte, Mont., 519. 
Cairo, 111., 218. 
Chattanooga, Tenn., 807. 
Chicago, 111., 217. 
Cincinnati, O., 676. 
Cold Spring, N. Y., 579. 
Colorado Sprmgs, Col., 102. 
Cumberland, Md., 322. 
Davenport, la., 254. 
Deadwood, S. D., 794. 
Denver, Col., 115. 
Dubuque, la., 254. 
Duluth, iSIinn., 434. 
Easton, Pa., 735. 
Eastport, Me., 318. 
East Seattle, Wash., 875. 
El Paso, Te.x., 813. 
Fargo, N. D., 660. 
Fort Benton, Mont., 518. 
Fort Scott, Kan., 270. 
Fort Wrangell, Alas., 52. 
Frankfort, Ky., 286. 
Glendive, Mont., 519. 
Harper's Ferry, W. Va., 885 
Hartford, Conn., 130. 
Helena, Mont., 520. 
Hoboken, N. J., 560. 
Hot Springs, Ark., 63. 
Idaho Springs, Col., m. 
Jersey City, N. J., 560. 
Juneau, Alaska, 52. 
Leavenworth, Kan., 272. 
Lewisburg, Pa., 721. 
Lewiston, Me., 199. 
Little Rock, Ark., 68. 
Louisville, Ky., 285. 
Lubec, Me., 312. 
Madison, Wis., 897. 
Marietta, O., 190. 
Mauch Chunk, Pa., 718. 
Middlesborough, Ky., 276. 
Milwaukee, \\ is., 896. 
Mobile, Ala., 29. 
Monterey, Cal., 78. 
Morehead City, N. C.,646. 
Newark, N. J., 561. 
Newburgh, N. Y., 6og. 
Newport, R. I., 767. 
New York, N. Y., 605. 
Norwich, Conn., 129. 
Oakland, Md., 326. 
Ogden, Utah, 836. 
Oklahoma City, Okla., 696. 



Ouray, Col., 112. 
Pendleton, Ore., 702. 
Pittsburgh, Pa., 735. 
Portland, Ore., 707. 
Poughkeepsie, N. Y., 586. 
Providence, R. I., 763, 771. 
Provincetown, Mass . 343. 
Pueblos, N. M., 568. 
Pullman, 111., 215. 
Purcell, Okla., 696. 
Put-in-Bay, O., 663. 
Raton, N. M., 572. 
Red Wing, Minn., 422. 
Riverside, Cal., 97. 
Rochester, N. Y., 589. 
Rock Island, III., 218. 
St. Paul, Minn., 431. 
San Francisco, Cal., 99. 
San Jose, Cal., 88. 
Santa Barbara, Cal., 79. 
Santa Fe, N. M., 572. 
Seat.le, Wash., 875, 876. 
Siou.x Falls, S. D., 792. 
Sitka, A.aska, 52. 
Tahlequah, I. T., 249. 
Taos, N. M., 569. 
Tucson, Ariz., 58. 
Tulsa, I. T., 252. 
Vicksburg, Miss., ^42, 
Virg-inia City, Mont., 536. 
Waitsburgh, Wash., 871. 
Walla Walla, Wash., 868. 
Washington, D. C, 151. 
Waukesha, Wis., 002. 
Westerly, R. I., 768. 
Wheeling, W. Va., 882. 
Williamsport, Md., 323. 
Wilmington, Del., 147. 
Yuma, .^riz., 88. 
City Halls : 

Baltimore, Md., 331. 
Brooklyn, N. Y., 603. 
Buffalo, N. Y., 607. 
Cambridge, Mass., 346. 
Chicago, 111., 217. 
Dallas, Te.x., 815. 
Detroit, Mich., 414. 
Fall River, Mass., 347. 
Fort Worth, Tex., 815. 
Galveston, Te.x., 825. 
Grand Rapids, Mich., 405. 
Holyoke, Mass., 364. 
Houston, Te.x., 823. 
Kearney, Neb., 523. 
Louisville, Ky., 284. 
Minneapolis, Minn., 430. 
Nashville, Tenn., 799. 
New York, N. Y., 615. 
North Easton, Mass., 364. 
Omaha, Neb., 529. 
Philadelphia, Pa., 728. 
Pittsburgh, Pa., 740. 
Portland, Me.. 319. 
Portland, Ore., 705. 
Providence, R. I., 774. 
Quincy, 111., 204. 
Richmond, Va., 857. 



St. Joseph, Mo., 448. 
San Antonio, Texas, 813. 
San Francisco, Cal., 98. 
Vincennes, Ind., 236. 
Waterbury, Conn., 128. 
Wheeling, W. Va., 884. 
Wichita, Kan., 265. 
Winchester, Mass., 346. 
Colleges: (See also Universities.) 
-Agricultural, Iowa, 259. 
Agricultural, Md., 324. 
Agricultural, S. D., 794. 
Amherst, Mass,. 354. 
Andover Sem., Mass., 35=. 
Antioch, O., 672. 
Battle-Creek, Mich., 410. 
Beloit, Wis., 8q6. 
Bethany, W. Va., 884. 
Bowdoin, Me., 317. 
Bryn Mawr, Pa., 728. 
Buchtel, O., 673. 
Cambridge, Episc, 355. 
Columbia, N. Y., 596. 
Dartmouth. N. H., 542. 
Davidson, N. C, 653. 
Fairmount, Kan., 265. 
Florida Agric, 170. 
Girls' Industrial, Miss.. 441. 
Georgia Technological, 187. 
Girard, Pa.. 731. 
Hastings, Neb., 529. 
Hillsdale, Mich., 411. 
Hiram, O., 672. 
Howard, Ala., 32. 
Iowa, 259. 
Jesuit, La., 310. 
Kansas Agric, 267. 
Kenyon, O., 672. 
Lafayette, Pa., 735. 
Luther, 260. 
Marietta, O., 662. 
Mass. Inst, of Technology, 355. 
Michigan State Normal, 413. 
Mississippi, 439. 
Montana, 517. 
Mt. St. Mary's, Md., 325. 
Oberlin, O., 671. 
Ouachita, Ark., 62. 
Peabody, Tenn., 802. 
Pennsylvania, 730. 
Physicians, N. v., 597. 
Princeton, N. J., 558,557. 
Racine, Wis., 895. 
Roanoke, Va., 861. 
Rutgers, N. J., 559. 
Sage, N. Y., 595, 
St. Ignatius, 88. 
St. John's, Md., 325. 
Shorter, Ga., 189. 
Shurtleff, 111., 209. 
Southern Bapt., Ky., 288. 
Spring Hill, Ala., 32. 
Svvarthmore, Pa., 729. 
Synodical, Ala., 40. 
Trinity, Conn., 126. 
Tufts, Mass., 356. 
Union Theol., N. V., 595. 



93^ 



KWG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Vassar, N. Y., 597. 

Va. Military Inst., 860. 

Wabash, Ind., 237. 

Wellesley, Mass., 356. 

Wells, N. Y., 598. 

Whitworth, Miss, 440. 

Williams, Mass., 354. 

Wesleyan, Ga., 180. 

Western Theol., 111., 208. 
Court-Houses : 

Baltimore, Md., 334. 

Beatrice, Neb., 528. 

Birmingham, Ala., 33. 

Boston, Mass., 351. 

Brooklyn, N. Y., 603. 

Butte, Mont., 519. 

Chicago, 111., 217. 

Cincinnati, O., 665. 

Columbus, O., 666. 

Council Bluffs, la., 261. 

Dallas, Te.x., 814. 

Davenport, la., 261. 

Evansville, Ind., 235. 

Fairfa.x, Va., 853. 

Fargo, N. D., 656. 

Florence, Ala., 41. 

Fort Smith, Ark., 62. 

Galveston, Te.x., 819. 

Hartford, Conn., 132. 

Houston, Te.x., 823. 

Huntsville, Ala., 34. 

Indianapolis, Ind., 235. 

Kansas City, Mo., 448. 

Lima, O., 665. 

Little Rock, Ark., 68. 

Louisville, Ky., 289. 

Milwaukee, Wis., 892, 

Nashville, Tenn., 799. 

Newark, N. J., 561. 

Omaha, Neb., 523. 

Peoria, 111., 213. 

Pittsburgh, Pa., 720. 

Pittstield, Mass., 345. 

St. Clairsville, O., 665. 

St. Louis, Mo., 446, 447. 

San Jose, Cal., 95. 

Savannah, Ga., 182. 

Seattle, Wash.,87C. 

Siou.x Falls, la., 792. 

Terre Haute, Ind., 235. 

Wichita, Kan., 264. 

Wilmington, Del., 147. 

Woodbury, N. J., 551. 
Falls: 

Amoskeag, N. H., 540. 

Bridal Veil, Cal^, 75. 

Cascade Falls, Cal., 75. 

Cascades, N. C., 651. 

Chipeta, Col., 106. 

Cumberland, Ky., 275. 

Genesee, N. Y., 589. 

Gibbon, Wyo., 909. 

Glen Ellis, N. H., 541. 

Great, Mont., 514. 

Kanawha, W. Va.,880. 

Kaulerskill, N. Y., 582. 

Minnehaha, Minn., 423. 

Mossbrae, Cal., 81. 

Multnomah, 704. 

Nevada, Cal., 75. 

New-River, W. Va., 883. 

Niagara, N. Y., facing page i, 
627, 587. 

Passaic, N. J., 553. 

Portage, N. Y., 582. 

Rainbow, N. Y.,'585. 

Shoshone, Idaho, 196. 



Siou.x, S. D., 791. 

Spokane, Wash., 878. 

Tallulah, Ga., 181. 

Toccoa, Ga., 181. 

Twin, Idaho, 196. 

Vermilion, Minn., 422. 

Vernal, Cal., 75. 

Willamette, Ore., 707. 

Yellowstone, Wyo.,9ii, 909. 

Yo-Semite, Cal., 76, 75. 
Historic Scenes : 

Alamo, Te.x., 812. 

Andr^ house, 576, 

Arlington, Va., 855. 

Bee Hive, Utah, 835. 

Bell Tower, Ga., 178. 

Camulos, Cal., 78. 

Carpenters' Hall., Pa., 711. 

Cincinnati in 1808, 668. 

Faneuil Hall, Mass., 340. 

First house, Lincoln, 522. 

First passenger-coach, 324. 

Fort Putnam, N. Y., 18. 

Franklin's grave, 710. 

French Market, N. 0.,298. 

Gate, St. Augustine, Fla., 176. 

Grant's Birth-place, O., 662. 

Grant's headquarters, 737. 

Hawthorne's birth-place, 342. 

Hermitage, 797. 

Independence Hall, Pa., 711. 

Irving's home, 577. 

Jamestown, Va., 850. 

John Brown's Fort, 882. 

Lexington, Ky., in 1782, 274. 

Longfellow's birth-place, 312. 

Malvern House, Va., 853. 

Meade's headquarters, 715. 

Mission Concepcion, Tex., 812. 

Monterey, Cal., 70. 

Monticello, Va., 852. 

Mount Vernon, Va., 850. 

New Orleans C. H., 294, 300. 

Oldest house in U. S., 569, 

Oldest mill in Penn., 710. 

Old State House, Mass., 341. 

Penn's House, 737. 

Santa Barbara Mission, 70. 

Santa Clara Mission, 568. 

Santa Cruz Mission, 568. 

Slater Mill, R. I., 764. 

Slave Market, Fla., 176. 

Spanish Fort, La., 205. 

Stone Mill, R. I., 764. 

Tyler's Home, 798. 

Washington's Headquarters : 
Morristown and Mt. Hope, 
N. J., 550 ; Newburgh, 581. 

Wayside Inn, Mass., 342. 

Webster's (Noah) Birth-place, 
119. 

Wentworth Mansion, 541. 
Lakes : 

Au-Sable, N. Y., 583. 

Blue-Mt., N. Y., 582. 

Borgne, La., 299. 

Champlain, 580. 

Cayuga, N. Y., 594. 

Charles, La., 295. 

Chicago, Col., 105. 

Clear, Iowa, 25^. 

Coeur d' Alene, Id., 200. 

Crater, Ore., 699. 

Detroit, Minn., 423. 

Devil's, N. D., 657. 

Devil's, Wis., 888. 

Donner, Cal., 76. 



Eagle, Me., 313. 
Echo, N. H., 538, 539. 
Erie, 663. 

Geneva, Wis., 890. 
George, N. Y., 578. 
Great Salt Lake, 12,833. 
Green, Col., 107. 
Greenwood, N. J., 557. 
Hopatcong, 55?. 
Long, Conn., 122. 
Luzerne, N. Y., 584. 
Medical, Wash., 870. 
Minnesota, 421. 
Minnetonka, 420, 436, 
Mirror, Cal., 75. 
Moosehead, Me., 313. 
Moosetocmaguntic, Me., 314, 
Newfound, N. H., 539. 
Okoboji, Iowa, 286. 
Otsego, N. Y., 583. 
Pend'Oreilles, Id., 195. 
Pepin, Minn., 892. 
Pontchartrain, La., 299. 
Profile, N. H., 538. 
Pyramid, Nev., 532. 
Schroon, N. Y., 584. 
Soda, Nev., 533. 
Spirit, la., 255. 
Storm la., 522. 
Sunapee, N. H., 541. 
Tahoe, Cal., 532. 
Thousand Islands, 583, 584- 
Winnemucca, Nev., 333. 
Winnepesaukee, N. H., 530. 
Yellowstone, Wyo., 910. 
Libraries : 
Alhambra, Cal., 86. 
Astor, N. Y., 626. 
Billings, Vt., 843. 
Boston, Mass., 562. 
Brown University, 769. 
Buffalo, N. Y., 599. 
California Univ., 94. 
Cambridge, Mass., 352. 
Carnegie, Pa., 733. 
Chittenden, Yale, 125. 
Congressional, 151, 157. 
Cooper Union, N. Y., 598. 
Crane, Quincy, Mass., 362. 
Dartmouth College, 542. . 
Enoch Pratt, Bait., 329. 
Fitchburg, Mass., 373. 
Hartford, Conn., 124. 
Harvard University, 353. 
Howard, New Or., 308. 
Lenox, N. Y., 599. 
Maiden, Mass., 374. 
Manchester, Mass., 352. 
Masonic, Iowa, 259. 
Medical, D. C, 162. 
Methuen, Nevins, 363. 
Minneapolis, 424. 
Natural Sciences, Phila., 729 
New London, Conn., 127. 
North Easton, Mass., 377. 
Peabody, Bait., 331. 
Philadelphia, 733. 
Pittsfield, Mass., 345. 
Portland, Me., 317. 
Ridgway, Phila., 719. 
St. Louis, Mo., 450. 
Toledo, O., 666. 
Univ. of Pa., 732. 
Warren, R. I., 765. 
Waterbury, Conn., 138. 
Woburn, Mass., 373. 
Woodstock, Vt.,843, 



INDEX OF ILLl'STKATIONS. 



93.7 



Monuments ; 

AUyn, Conn., 133. 

Ames, Wyo., 906. 

Arlington, Va., 854. 

Battle, Md., 333. 

Bennington, Vt., 842. 

Boone, Ky., 274. 

Bunker-Hill, Mass., 340. 

Chalmette, La., 296. 

Clay, Ky., 274. 

Colfax, Ind., 234. 

Cowpens, S. C, 782. 

Custer, Mont., 518. 

Dade, Fla., 174. 

Douglas, 111., 203. 

Foreign Missions, Mass., 364. 

Garfield, O., 674. 

Grant, N. Y., 17. 

Harvard, Mass., 353. 

Liberty Enlightening the 
World, N. J., 7. 

Lincoln, 111., 210. 

Lion, Barye's, Md., 333. 

Martyrs', N. y.,600. 

Mexican Boundary, Cal., 71. 

Milford Bridge, Conn., 119. 

Mormon, 257. 

National Forefathers, Mass., 11. 

Norumbega, Mass., 341. 

Obelisk, X. Y.,j9o. 

Ogden, Kan., 265. 

Peace, D. C, 161. 

Penn, Phila., 710. 

Plymouth Rock, Mass., 343 

Poe, Md., 333- 

Ridgley, Md., 333. 

Saratoga, X. Y., 576. 

Savannah, Ga., 186. 

Standish, Mass., 6. 

Star- Spangled Banner, Cal., 95. 

Washington, D. C, 161. 

Washington, Md.. 333. 

Washington, \. Y., 561. 

Wildej, Md., 333. 

Yorktown, Va., 854. 
Mountains : 

Adams, Wash., 870. 

Adirondacks, N. Y., 582. 

Alleghany, 713, 880. 

Baker, Wash., 13. 

Black Hills, 790. 

Blue Ridge, 647. 

Caesar's Head, S. C, 784. 

Catoosa, I T., 249. 

Catskills, X. Y.,57g. 

Davis Peak, Xev., 535. 

Desert, Me., :?i4. 

Giant of the Valley, X. Y. , 582. 

Gray's Peak, Col., 102. 

Great Smoky, Tenn., 798. 

Greylock, Mass., 345. 

Gypsum, Kan., 26(6. 



Hotyoke, Mass., 345. 
Hood, Ore., 13, 698,699. 
Humboldt, Xev., 534, 535. 
Iron, Mo., 445. 
Katahdin, >ie., 313 
Kennesaw, Ga., 180. 
Kineo, Me., 313. 
La Perouse, Alas., 47. 
Long's, Col., 102. 
Lookout, Tenn., 8<yi, 807. 
Mesa of Zutii, 570. 
Mission, Mont., 510. 



Mitchell, X. C, 654. 

Olympic, Wash., 12, 86g. 

Peaks of Otter, Va., 857. 

Pike's Peak, Col., 102, 106. 

Pilot Knob, Mo., 446. 

Pisgah, Penn., 718. 

Pyramid, Ore., 699. 

Rainier, Wash., 866, 875. 

Rocky, 512. 

Round Knob, X. C, 649. 

Round Top,' Texas, 816. 

St. Elias, Alaska, 48, 13. 

Shasta, Cal., 73. 

Sierra Blanca, Col., 103. 

Sierra Blanca, Tex., 813. 

Sierra Madre, Cal., 77. 

Stone, Ga., 180. 

Sultan, Col., 103. 

Tacoma, Wash., 13, 866. 

Three Tetons, Wyo., 904. 

Tryon, X. C, 651. 

Turtle, X. D., 656. 

Washington, X. H., 548, 539. 

White, X. H., 548. 

Whitney, Cal., 73. 

Wrangell, Alaska, 13, 48. 
Passes ; 

Alpine, Col., no. 

Apache, Ariz., 56. 

Cumberland Gap, 276. 

Franconia Xotch, X. H., 538,539. 

Fremont, Col., 104, 113, 

Hickory Xut, X. C., 647. 

Marshall, Col., 105. 

Perrier, Alaska, 46. 

Royal Gorge, Col., 107. 

Veta, Col., 107. 

Wagon Wheel, Col., 109. 

Water Gap, Pa., 555. 

Water Gap, Va., 858. 
Portraits : 

Adams, John, 15. 

Adams, John Quincy, 15. 

Allen, Ethan, 830. 

Arthur, Chester A., 15. 

Baltimore, Lord, 321. 

Benton, T. H., 443. 

Bienville, 27. 

Brown, John, 263. 

Buchanan. James, 15. 

Calhoun, John C, 781. 

Campbell, Alex., 879. 

Campbell, J. A., 903. 

Carson, Kit, 567. 

Cass, Lewis, 401. 

Chase, Salmon P., 661. 

Clark, George Rogers, 233. 

Clay, Henry, 273. 

Cleveland, Grover, 15. 

Custer, George A., 789. 

De la Warr, Lord. 143. 

De Soto, Hernando, 795. 

Dfjuglas, S. A., 201. 

Fessenden. W. P., 311. 

Fillmore, Millard, 15. 

Foote, Henry S., 437. 

Franklin, Benjamin, 5. 

Fremont, John C, 53. 

Garfield, James A., 15. 

Grant, Ulysses S., 15. 

Grimes, James W., 253. 

Harrison, Benjamin, 15. 

Harrison, W. H., 15. 

Hayes, R. B.. 15. 

Houston, Sam, 811. 

Jack-son, Andrew, 15. 

Jefferson, Thoitias, 15. 



Johnson, Andrew, 15. 
Junipero Serra, 6g. 
Kearny, Philip, 549. 
Lane, Joseph, 697. 
Lewis, Meriwether, 193. 
Lincoln, Abraham, 15. 
Madison, James, 15. 
Mitchell, Alex., 885. 
Monroe, James, 15. 
Xye, James W., 531. 
Oglethorpe, J. E., 177. 
Payne, Lewis, 693. 
Penn, Wm., 709. 
Pierce, Franklin, 15. 
Pike, Zebulon M., loi. 
Polk, James K., 15. 
Ponce de Leon, 165. 
Potts, Benjamin F., 509 
Ralegh, Sir Walter, 645. 
Red Cloud, 655. 
Sarpy, Peter A., 521. 
Sequoyah, 247. 
Sevier, Ambrose H., 59. 
Seward, Wm. H., 43. 
Sibley, H. H., 419. 
Smitn. Capt. John, 849. 
S<jule, Pierre, 293. 
Stark, John, 537. 
Stevens, Isaac I., 865. 
Stuyvesant, Peter, 575. 
Taylor, Zachary, 15. 
Trumbull, Jonathan, 117. 
Tyler, John, 15. 
Van Buren, Martin, 15. 
Washington, George, 3, 15. 
Washington, Martha, 149. 
Williams, Roger, 763. 
Wintlirop, John, 339. 
Voung, Brigham, 831. 
Rivers : 
Alabama, 29. 
Arkansas, 68. 
Brandywine, Del., 144. 
Cheat, W. Va., 880. 
Chicago, 111., 221. 
Clarke's Fork, Id., 194, 511. 
Colorado, 56, 8i. 
Columbia, 868, 699, 700. 
Connecticut, 121, 123, 540. 
Delaware, 555. 
Detroit, Mich., 407. 
French Broad, N. C, 649 
Genesee, X. Y., 583, 589. 
Green, Wyo., 904. 
yomosassa, Fia., 169. 
Hudson, X. Y., 560, 579, 590, 609. 
Humbfjldt, Xev., 534. 
Illinois, 202. 
Indian, .Alaska, 47. 
Indian, Florida, 167. 
Juniata, Penn., 712. 
Kanawha, W. Va., 883. 
Linville, X. C., 646. 
Marmaton, 270. 
Meramec, Mo., 444. 
Merrimac, Mass., 343. 
Mississippi. 255, 421, 444,89'. 
Missouri, 511. 
Naugatuck, Conn., 121. 
Nemaha, Xeb., 530. 
New, W. Va., 882. 
Xiagara, X, Y.,627. 608. 
Ocklawaha, Fla., i, 169. 
Ohio, 882. 
Pecos, 574. 

Platte, Xeb., 523, 530. 
Port-Xeuf, Idaho, rgs. 



A'LVU'S /I. AND BOO IC OF THE UNITED STATES. 



938 



Potomac, 323, 327, 828. 
Providence, R. I., 376. 
Raritan, N. J., 553. 
St. Clair, Mich., 416. 
Santiam, Ore., 708. 
Schuylkill, Penn., 716. 
Snake, 195, 196, 197, 867. 
Susquehanna, Pa., 323, 713. 
Suwanee, 167. 

Tennessee, 28, 41, 796, 806, 807. 
Thames, Conn., 123. 
White, Ark., 60, 61. 
Willamette, Ore., 707. 
Wisconsin, 886, 890. 
Wissahicknn, Pa., 716. 
Yellowstone, Wyo., gog. 
Youghiogheny, Pa., 322. 
Rocks : 
Arch, Cal., 80. 
Arch, Mich., 404. 
Barn Bluff, Minn., 420. 
Beaver Head, Mont., 512. 
Buttes of Columbia, 700. 
Cape Horn, Wash., 868. 
Castle Gate, Utah, 832. 
Cathedral, Col., 109. 
Cathedral Spires, Cal., 73. 
Cathedral Spires, Mo., 444. 
Chimney, N. C, 647. 
Cleopatra's Bath, gog. 
Crag, Rio Virgen, 832. 
Currecanti, Col., log. 
Devil's Slide, Utah, 833. 
Devil's Thumb, Alaska, 47. 
Dalles of Wisconsin, 886,88S,8go. 
Dome, Coi., no. 
Eagle Cliff, N. H., 538. 
Flume, N. H., 538. 
Garden of the Ciods, Col., 106. 
Hawks' Nest, W. Va., S83. 
Hippopotamus, Wyo., 905. 
Inscription, N. M., 58. 
Liberty Cap, Wyo., 909. 
Linville Gorge, N. C, 648. 
Monument, Cal., 80. 
Natural Bridge, Va., 854. 
Natural Tunnel, Va., 856. 
Needle Peaks, Col., 106. 
Paint, N. C, 649. 
Paint Pots, Wyo., gog. 
Palace Butte, Wyo., 910. 
Palisades, N. J., 552, 555. 
Pictured, Mich., 410. 
Pillars of Hercules, 698. 
Pivot, Ark., 60. • 

Point of Rocks, Md., 328. 
Profile, N. H., 538. 
Pulpit Basins, Wyo., gog. 
Rock City, Tenn., 796. 
Split, Me., 314. 
Sugar Loaf, Mich., 404. 
Sunrise, Tenn., S07. 



Starved, 111., 202. 

Three Brothers, Cal., 75. 
Soldiers' Monuments: 

Antietam, Md., 327. 

Arlington, Va., 854, 855. 

Augusta, Ga., 178. 

Bennington, Vt., 842. 

Buffalo, N. Y.. sgg. 

Cleveland, O., 663. 

Detroit, Mich., 414. 

Frankfort, Ky., 275. 

Gettysburg, Pa., 715. 

Grant, N. Y., 17. 

Hartford, Conn., 120, 129= 

Indianapolis, Ind., 234. 

Logansport, Ind., 23g. 

Manchester, N. H., 540. 

Memorial Hall, Harvard Uni- 
versity, Mass., 353. 

New Haven, Conn., 120. 

Schuylerville, N. Y., 576. 

Sharon, Conn., iig. 

Spartanburg, S. C, 782. 

Wilmington, Del., 145. 

Yorktown, Va., 854. 
Statues : 

Benton, T. H., 445. 

Burnside, 766. 

Cleaveland, 663. 

Colfa.x, 234. 

Columbus, 445, 737, 161 

Emancipation, 161. 

Farragut, 161, 576. 

Freedom, 161. 

Garfield, 162. 

Grant, 264. 

Humboldt, 445. 

Jackson, 161, 2g6. 

Jasper, 783. 

Juneau, 8g3. 

Kearny, 552, 

Lafayette, 161. 

Lee, Robert E., 856. 

Leif Ericsson, 341. 

Liberty, 7. 

Lincoln, Abraham, 737. 

Marshall, 71. 

McMichael, Morton, 735. 

McPherson, 161. 

Meade, 737. 

Minute Man, 343. 

Morgan, 782. 

Morton, 234. 

Perry, Com., 765. 

Putnam, Gen., 120. 

Roger Williams, 765. 

Scotft, Gen., 161. 

Shakespeare, 445. 

Taney, 333. 

Thomas, Gen., 161. 

Washington, 893, 856. 

Webster, Daniel, 542. 



Universities : 
Alabama, 38. 
Arkansas, 62. 
Baylor, Te.xas, 817. 
Brown, R. I., 76g. 
California, gi, 94. 
Catholic, 154. 
Clatlin, S. C, 785. 
Colby, Me., 317. 
Columbian, D. C, 153. 
Cornell, N. Y., 594. 
De Pauw, Ind., 238. 
Deseret, Utah, 835. 
Fisk, Tenn., 803. 
Georgetown, D. C, 153, 15^ 
Georgia, 187. 
Harvard, Mass., 353, 368. 
Howard, D. C, 153. 
Illinois, 208. 
111. Normal, 203. 
Indian, 251. 
Indiana, 238. 
Johns Hopkins, Md., 330. 
Kansas, 26g, 270. 
Kentucky, 281. 
Lehigh, Pa., 730. 
Louisiana, 306. 
Michigan, 412. 
Minnesota, 425. 
Mississippi, 441. 
Missouri, 449. 
Montana, 517. 
Nebraska, 525. 
North Carolina, 653,, 
North Dakota, 659. 
Northwestern, 111., 20S, 
Notre Dame, Ind., 238. 
Oak Cliff, Te.x., 824. 
Ohio, 671. 
Pennsylvania, 729. 
Princeton, N. J., 558. 
Purdue, Ind., 239, 237. 
Roger Williams, 803. 
St. Louis, Mo., 449. 
South Carolina, 785. 
South Dakota, 793. 
Southern, Ala., 30. 
South, the, Tenii., 802. 
Stanford, Cal., 96. 
Stetson, Fla., 173. 
Syracuse, N. Y., 596. 
Tennessee, 802. 
Te.xas, 816. 
Tulane, La., 307. 
Vanderbilt, Tenn., 8o3o 
Vermont, 843. 
Virginia, 850. 
Washington and Lee, 860. 
Wesleyan, Conn., 126. 
West Virginia, 884. 
Wisconsin, 892. 
Yale, Conn., 123. 



The Cover Pages Represent Nature in the North (lining the front cover), with the amazing 
white plunge of Niagara Falls, and a lonely and mountain-walled Adirondack lake, the tall white 
pines of Michigan, the graceful red deer, and the far-soaring American eagle. 

Nature in the South (facing the inside front cover), with a scene on the Ocklawaha River, in 
Florida, surrounded by the palms and palmettoes, and the luxuriant vegetation of the semi-tropical 
States. Here also appear the alligator of the Gulf coast and the white pelican of Louisiana. 

Nature in the East (facing the back cover), is illustrated by an inspiring scene from the coast of 
Maine, and the famous Profile (or Pld Man of the Mountain) from the White Mountains of New 
Hampshire. The great New-England moose appears in the foreground, with the bending fronds of 
the golden rod about him, and over all arches the magnificent American elm. 

Nature in the West (the last cover-page) is typified bv the wonderful Yosemite Valley of Cali- 
fornia, the gigantic Sequoyahs (or big trees) of Calaveras, Colorado's Mountain of the Holy Crop's, and 
the weird cacti and yucca palms of Arizona. Anjid these scenes appear the big-horn sheep of the 
Sierra Nevada, and the grizzly bear of the Coast Range. 



Additional Statistics. 



The groundwork of the Handbook of the United States is the National census of 
1890. Nothing can take the place of that authority till long after the close of this century. 
Some States took a census in 1895, ^^'^ almost every large and growing city in the country 
has had enumerations of one kind or another. None of these enumerations, however, are 
considered as authority, nor has it been thought well to incorporate such results in the 
body of a work intended to be authoritative; but in order to give the readers of the Hand- 
book the fullest information available up to 1896, the results of the latest of these enumera- 
tions and the most conservative estimates, together with the reports of the Government 
Departments, are here embodied in tabular form. A special full set of the statistics of 
agriculture in every State for the year 1895 was furnished by the Department at Washington 
for this purpose, and is of great value and interest. In every instance where reference is 
made to the year 1890, the official corrected returns of the United States census are used. 



The united states. Pages 

States 45 

Territories ; 5 

Population. 

Census of 1890 62,632,250 

Estimate, 1895, over 70,000,000 
Total vote cast at last 

Presidential election 

Unl892) 12,150,274 

Army (in 1895). 

Enlisted men and of- 
ficers 25,706 

Diseiplined militia, 

1894 141,365 

Navy (in 1895). 

Officers and sail- 
ors 1.3,500 

Marines 1,100 14,600 

Ships in commission 64 

Shii)s under con- 
struction 26 

Post-otfices, July 1, 

1895 70,064 

Railroads (miles), 1895, 179,279 
Net National Debt, 

JanY 1, 1896 $905,770,687 

Newspapers and peri- 
odicals. 1896 21,225 

Population of Chief Cities. 

Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

New York 2,000,000 1,515,-301 

Chicago 1,750,000 1,099,850 

Philadelphia. .1,350,000 1,046,964 

Broolilyn 1,150,000 806,.343 

St. Louis 600,000 451,770 

Boston 500,C00 448,477 

Baltimore 500,000 4.31,4.39 

Cincinnati 365,000 296,908 

San Francisco, 350,000 298,997 

Buffalo 350,000 255,664 

Cleveland 345,000 261,.353 

Detroit 300,000 205,876 

Washington... 280,000 2.30,392 

New Orleans . 275,000 242,039 

Pittsbui-g 275,000 2;38,617 

Milwaulv-ee.... 275,000 204,468 

Newark 21.5,000 181,830 

Louisville 200,000 161,129 



Minneapolis... 195,000 164,738 

Jersey City . . . 185,000 163,003 

Omaha 160,000 140,452 

Rochester. ... 160,000 1.33,896 

Providence . . . 160,000 132,146 

Kansas City,Mo.l50,000 132,716 

Indianapolis . 150,000 105,436 

St. Paul 145,000 1&3,156 

Denver 140,000 106,713 

Toledo, 125,000 81,434 

Alleglieny 120,000 10,5.287 

Syracuse 115,000 88,143 

Scranton 110,000 75,215 

Atlanta, Ga.. 110,000 65,531? 

Columbus, O.. 110,000 88,150 

Memphis,Tenn. 105,000 64.495 

New Haven, Ct. 100,000 81,298 

Richmond, Va. 100,000 81,388 

Worcester,JIass.lOO,000 84,655 

Albany, N.Y.. 100,000 94,923 

Paterson, N. J. 100,000 78.347 



ALABAMA. Page 27. 

Counties.. . 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 1,600, 

Total vote cast, 1892.. 2.32. 
For Cleveland, D. . . . 138 

" Weaver, Pop 85. 

" Harrison, R 9, 

Total vote cast, 1894. . 194, 

For Oates, D 110. 

" Kolb. Pop 83, 

Governor, Wm. C. Oates 
Term expires Dec. 1, 1896. 

U. S. Representatives, 1896, 

Democrats 8 

Populists 1 

Post-offices, 1895 2, 

Railroads (miles), 1895, 3. 

Jlanufactures $51,226, 

Operatives .33. 

Yearly wages $12,676. 

Farin Products, 1895. 

Corn.. .. 44,376,487 bu. $16,419. 

Wheat . . .373.283 bu., $298, 

Oats ....5,210,172bu.,$2.188, 

Potatoes. 480,130 bu., $388. 

Hay .. . 116,980 t's, $1,194 



66 

000 

,755 
138 
,181 
187 
,148 
,865 
,283 



209 
,633 
,605 

,821 
,029 

,300 
,026 
272 
!905 
,366 



Cotton... 1,000,000 bis. 

School children en- 
rolled, 1893-4 , 306,000 

Average attendance, 185,000 

Military Strength. 

Organized 2,982 

Available 165,000 

Newspapers, 1895 200 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation, 1894 47.63 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895 1890. 

Mobile 48,000 31,076 

Birmingham 36,000 23.178 

Montgomery ... .25,000 21,883 

ARIZONA. PAGE 53. 

Counties 10 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 77,000 

Total vote cast, 1894, 

for Congress 13,427 

For Herndon, D 4,773 

" Murphy, R 5,648 

" • O'Neill, Pop 3,006 

Governor, Louis C. Hughes. 
Term expires April 21, 1897. 

Post-offlces, 1895 185 

Railroads (miles), 1895. . 1,357 
Manufactures (census of 

1890) $947,.547 

Operatives 528 

Yearly wages $358,127 

Farm Products, 1895. 

Corn 132,730 bu., $99,548 

Wheat 250,654 bu., $162,925 

Barley. . . .261,241 bu., $182,869 

Potatoes 29,118 bu., $17,471 

Hay 63,6.55 t'ns, $572,895 

School children enrolled, 

1893-4 11..320 

Average attendance.. 6,921 
Military Strength. 

Organized 503 

Available 7,600 

Newspapers, 1895 43 

Ainnial average precipi- 
tation, 1894 10.64 



940 



AVA'G'S HAND BOOR' OF THE HNirKD STATES. 



Population op Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Tucson .5,000 5,1.50 

Phoeiii.x- 4,0(J0 3,1.5a 

Tombstone 1,900 1,875 

ARKANSAS. Page 59. 

Counties 75 

Population, 189(3 Cesti- 

uicated) 1,600,000 

Total vote cast, 1893. . . 147,929 
For Cleveland, D. . . . 87,834 

" Harrison, R 46,884 

" Weaver, Pop.... 11,831 
Total vote cast, 1894. . . 126,986 

For Clarke, D 74,809 

" Remmel, R 26,085 

" Barker, Pop 24,541 

Governor, James P. Clarke. 

Term expires .lan'y 11, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896. 6 

Democrats 6 

Post-offlces, 1895 1,706 

Railroads (miles), 1895. 2,424 

Manufactures $22,659,179 

Operatives 15,972 

Yearly wages $5,749,888 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn. . .50,a59,5.58 bu., $16,115,059 
Wheat. 1,452,300 bu., $8.56,857 
Oats... 8,306,486 bu., $2,6,58,076 
Rye.... 24,129 bu., $18,097 
Rotates, 1,476,300 bu., $752,913 
Hay . . . 214,396 t^ns, $1,987,451 
Cotton. 875,000 bales. 
School children enrolled, 

1893-4 285,159 

Average attendance. . . 166,544 
Military Strength. 

Organized 1,079 

Available 205,000 

Newspapers, 1 895 266 

Annual average precipi- 
tation, 1894. . 45.02 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Little Rock 40,000 25,874 

Fort Smith 16,000 11,311 

Pine Bluff 14.000 9,952 

Hot Springs 11 ,.500 8,086 

CALIFORNIA. Page 69. 

Counties 53 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) ... 1,220,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . 269,223 

For Cleveland, D . . . 118,293 
" Harrison, R 118,149 

Scattering a3,481 

Total vote cast, 1894. . . 284,547 

For Budd, D 111,944 

" Estes, R 110,738 

Governor. James H. Budd. 

Term expires Jan'y 4, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896, 7 

Democrats 1 

Republicans 6 

Post-ofiflces, 1895 1,543 

Railroads Cmiles), 1895, 4,634 

Manufactures $213,403,996 

Operatives 83,642 

Yearly wages $51 ,.5:^,780 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn.... S,256,a52 bu., $1,196,1.32 



Wheat, 40,097.798 bu., $24,0,58,079 
Oats . . . .1,690,046 bu., $659,118 
Rye ... 425,9.52 bu., $247,052 
Barley, 19,023,678 bu., $7,609,471 
Buckwh., 21,780 bu., $13,939 
Potatoes, 1,888,425 bu , $906,444 
Hay.... 2,791,710 t"s,$19,709,473 
School children enrolled, 

1893-4 243,249 

Average attendance,.. 164,664 
Military Strength. 

Organized 4,948 

Available 188,072 

Newspapers, 1895 640 

Annual average precipi- 
tation, 1894 21.36 



Population of Chief Cities. 

Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

San Francisco . . .350,000 298,997 

Los Angeles 80,000 50,395 

Oakland ,52,000 48,682 

Sacramento 32,000 26,386 

San Jose 22,000 18,060 

San Diego 19,000 16,159 

Stockton 17,000 14,424 

Alamedo 14,030 11,165 

Fresno 14,000 10,818 



COLORADO. Page 101. 



56 



Counties 

Population, 1896 .esti- 
mated) 450,000 

Total vote cast, 1892.. 93,842 

For Harrison, R . . . 38,620 

" Weaver, Pop. . . 

and Fus 53,584 

Total vote cast, 1894.. 177,931 
For Campbell, R.(Su- 

preme Court ) . . 90,845 

" Mills, Pop 76,487 

" Wilson, D 9,634 

Governor. Albert W. Mclntire. 
Term expires .Jan'y 19, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives, 

1896 2 

Republican 1 

Populist 1 

Post-offices, 1895 703 

Railroads (miles), 1895 4,538 

Manufactures $42,480,205 

Operatives 17,067 

Yearly wages $12,285,734 

Farm Products, 1895. 

Corn 3,690,976 bu.. $1,513,300 

Wheat... 2,808,250 bu., $1,572,620 

Oats 3,389,252 bu., $948,991 

Rye 49,144 bu., $23,588 

Barley... 447,277 bu., $268,366 
Potatoes. 3,491 ,820 bu., $1,152,301 

Hay 1,961,187 rns,$l 1,512,168 

Mineral Products, 1895. 

Gold $16,995,919 

Silver $12,353,074 

Lead $3,040,514 

Copper $928,849 

School children en- 
rolled, I89;3-4 84,448 

Average attendance 53,127 
Military Strength. 

Organized 1 ,021 

Available 85,000 

Newspapers, 1 895 276 

Annual average pi-e- 
cipitation, 1894 13.86 



Population op Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Denver 140,000 106,713 

Pueblo 30,000 24,558 

Cripple Creek' . . . 25,000 

Colorado Spi-ings 17,000 11,140 
Leadville 11,000 10,384 

CONNECTICUT. Page 117. 

Counties 8 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated; 800,000 

Total vote cast, 1892 . . 164,766 

For Cleveland, D 82,395 

" Harrison , R 77,025 

Scattering 5,346 

Total vote cast, 1894 . . 154,981 

For Coffin, R 83,975 

" Cady, D 66,287 

" Pond, Pro 2,310 

Governor, O. Vincent Coffin. 
Term expires Jan. 12, )897. 
U. S. Representatives. 1896, 4 

Republicans 4 

Post-offices, 1895 506 

Railroads (miles) 1895, 1,013 

Manufactures $248,.336,364 

Operatives 149,939 

Yearly wages .... $75,990,006 
Farm Products, 1805. 

Corn 1 ,768,338 bu. , $901 ,852 

Oats 742,217 bu , $230,087 

Rye 263.894 bu., $166,253 

Buckw't . ,58,489 bu., $32,754 
Potatoes .3,462,6.56 bu., $1,419,689 
Hay 400,440 t "s. , $6,447,084 

School children enrolled, 

1893-4 136,000 

Average attendance. 91,400 
Military Strength. 

Organized 2,842 

Available 98,779 

Newspapers 213 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation, 1894 38.47 

Population of Chief Cities. 

Estimated, 1805. ]89() 

New Haven 100,000 81,298 

Hartford 65.000 53,230 

Bridgeport 60,000 48,886 

Waterbury 32,000 28,646 

Meriden 26,000 21 ,652 

DELAWARE. PAGE 143. 

Counties 3 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 185,000 

Total vote cast 1892... 37.242 
For Cleveland, D . . 18,581 

'• Harrison, R 18,083 

Scattering 578 

Total vote cast 1894,.. 39,128 
For Tunnel, D.* .... 18,659 

" Marvil, R 19,880 

" Perry, Pro 589 

Governor, Wm. T. Watson. 
Term expires Jan'y 18. 1897. 

U. S. Representatives, 1896, 1 
Republican 1 

Post-offlces, 1895 169 

Railroads (miles), 1895, 315 

Manufactures $37,571,000 

» Died. 



ADDITIONAL STATISTICS. 



941 



Operatives 21.906 

Yearly wages. . . . .:$9,89:i,0OO 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn.. 4,a81.a91 bu., ^1,45.5,639 
Wheat, 1,069,300 bu., $684,352 
Oats.. 468,790 bu., Sia5,449 
Potatoes, 327,7.58 bu., $124,548 
Hay... 68]08t's. $828,193 

School children enrolled, 

189:i-4 3.3,100 

Average attendance. . . 2a,690 
Military Strength. 

Organized, 421 

Available 28 080 

Newspapers, 1895 37 

Average annual precipi- 
tation, 1894 45.43 

Population of Chief City. 
Estimated. 1895. 1890. 
"SVilmiugton 07 OUO 61 ,431 

DIST. COLUMBIA. Page 149 

Population, 1896 Cesti- 

mat^-d; 280,000 

Post-offices, 1895 13 

Railroads (miles) 1895 22 

Manufactures $39.3.31,437 

Operatives 23.404 

Yearly wages ......... $14,622,260 

School children enrolled, 

189.3-4 40.600 

Average attendance. 31 ,348 
Newspapers, 1895 67 

Average annual pre- 
cipitation. l89:i-4. . . . 30.85 

Population of Chief City. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Washington 
City 280,000 2.30..392 

FLORIDA. Page 165. 

Counties 45 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 485,000 

Total vote cast. 1892 . 35,461 

For Cleveland, D. . . 30,143 

" Weaver, Pop... 4,843 

Scattering 475 

Total vote cast, 1894. 
for Congressmen. 26,077 

First District. 
For Spark man, D.. 12,379 

" McKinnon. Pop. 2,135 

Second District. 

For Cooper. D 9,229 

" Atkinson, Pop.. y,334 

Governor, Henry L. Mitchell. 
Term expires Jan'y 5, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896, 2 

Democrats 2 

Post-offices, 1895. . 1,013 

Kaihoads ( miles) 1895, 2.978 

.Manufactures $18,222,000 

Operatives 13,920 

Yearly wages $6,513,068 

Farm Products. 1895. 

Corn 6.186.645 bn., $2,907,723 

Oats . . 406,327 bu., $264,113 
Potatoes. 89.925 bu., $89,925 
Hay .... 10.280 fns, $136,004 
Cotton . . fS.OOn bales. 
School children en- 
rolled, 189;}-1 96,700 

Average attendance 04,130 



Military Strength. 

Organized... 1,011 

Available 60,714 

Newspapers 146 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation, 1894 50.71 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Jacksonville.... 30,000 17,201 

Key West 23,000 18,080 

Pensacola 15,000 11 ,750 

GEORGIA. Page 177. 

Counties 137 

Poinilation 1896 (esti- 
mated) 1,984,930 

Total vote cast, 1892. . 223,946 

For Cleveland, D. . . . 129,361 

" Harrison, R ... 48,305 

" Weaver, Pop .. . 42,937 

'• Bidwell, Pro.... 988 

Scattering 2,355 

Total vote cast, 1894 . 217.937 

For Atkinson, D 121 ,049 

'• Hines, Pop 96,888 

Governor, Wm. Y. Atkinson. 

Term expires, Nov 1, 1896. 
U. S Representatives, 1896, 11 

Democrats. . . 11 

Post-offices, 1895 2,326 

Railroads (miles) 1895. 5,140 

Manufactures $68,917,000 

Operatives 56,360 

Yearly wages . . . $17,312,190 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn. ..42,172,481 bu., $17,290,717 
Wheat. 1,330,706 bu., $1,091,179 
Oats... 6,679,048 bu., $3,072,362 
Rye. . 138.809 bu., $117,988 
Potafs. 364,066 bu., $258,487 
Hay.. . 236,541 fs, $2,578,297 
Cotton . 1.200,000 bis, 
School children enrolled, 

1893-4 4.36 680 

Average attendance 262,000 
Military Strength. 

Organized 4,194 

Available 264,021 

Newspapers, 1895 311 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation 49 75 

Population op Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Atlanta 110,000 65,533 

Savannah 70,000 43,189 

Augrusta 40,000 3:^,300 

Macon 25,000 22,746 

IDAHO. Pace 193. 

Counties 18 

Population, 1890 (esti- 
mated) 1.30,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . . 19.407 
For Harrison-. R. .. 8,.599 

•• Weaver, Pop 10,520 

Total vote cast, 1894. . . 24.386 
For McConnell, R. . . . 10 208 

'■ Stevenson. D 7,057 

" Ballantine. Pop. 7,121 

Governor. Wra. J. McConnell. 
Term expires Jan'y 1. 1897. 

U. S. Representatives, 1890. 1 
Republicans 1 

Post-offices 1895 330 



Railroads (miles) 1895, 1,089 

Manufactures $1 3%.096 

Operatives 774 

Yearly wages $324,202 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn.. 5J,839bu., $31,520 

Wheat, 1,221,899 bu., $574,293 
Oats.. 1,102,358 bu., $.319,684 
Barley, 2,59,847 bu., $109,136 
Potatoes, 408,240 bu., $16.3,296 
Hay,... 459,598 fs. $2,872,488 
School children enrolled. 

1893-4 24,260 

Average attendance . . . i6,00i) 
Military Strength. 

Organized 304 

Available 13,932 

Newspapers, 1895 257 

Annual average precipi- 
tation, 1894 19.26 

Population of Chief City. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 
Boise City 5,000 2,311 

ILLINOIS. Page 201. 

Counties 102 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 4,500,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . 873,646 

For Cleveland, D. . . 426,281 
" Harri.son, R.... 399,288 

Scattering 48,077 

Total vote cast, 1894. . 849,266 

For Clagget, D.(State 

Treasurer)... . .322,459 

" Wulff, R 445,886 

" Randolph, Pop. 59,793 
" Puterbaugh.Pro. 19,475 
Governor, John P. Altgelt. 

Term expires Jan'v 11, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896. 22 

Republicans 20 

Democrats 2 

Post-offices, 1895 2,537 

Railroads (miles). 1895, 10,564 

IManufactures $908,640,280 

Operatives 312,198 

Y'early wages $171,523,579 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn. . 255,1.36,554 bu. .$.56,1.30,042 
Wheat, 19,060,712 bu.,.'!;iO.102,177 
Oats . 73,707,130 bu.,$12,.5.30,212 
Rye... 1,700,287 bu., $680,115 
Barley, 352.900 bu., $158,805 
Buckwh., 97,.303 bu., $42,813 
Potat's, 13,749,197 bu., $4,124,759 
Hay... 1,319,1.33 t\s,$13,.521,113 
School children enrolled, 

1893-4 aT5,930 

Average attendance. . . 565,107 
Military Strength 

Organized.. .'. .5,313 

Available 700,000 

Newspapers. 1895 1,532 

Annual average precii)i- 

tation, 1894 28.77 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated. 1895 1890. 

Chicago 1,7.50.(100 1,099,850 

Peoria 63,000 41 ,024 

Quincv 35,000 31,494 

Springfield a5.000 24.963 

Joliet : . . . :M,000 2:1264 

Rockford 33,000 23,.584 



942 



k'imrs ifAMnnook' of the united states. 



INDIANA. Page 233. 

Counties 92 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 3,1.35,300 

Total vote cast, 1892. . . 552,004 
For Cleveland, D . . . . 262,817 

" Harrison, R 253,929 

" Weaver, Pop.... 22,208 
" Bidwell, Pro.... 13,050 
Total vote cast, 1894. . . 562,682 
For BIyers, D. (.Sec'y 

of State) 2.38,732 

" Owen, R 283,405 

" Taylor, Pro 11,157 

Governor, Claude Matthews. 
Term expires Jan'y 9. 1897. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896, 13 

Republicans 13 

Post-offices, 1895 2,178 

Railroads (miles), 1895, 6,390 

Manufactures |226,82.5.()H0 

Operatives 124,349 

Yearly wages $51,749,976 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn. . 121,4:35,768 bu.,$27,9.30,227 
Wheat, 20,294,492 bu.,fll,567,860 
Oats.. 25,895,595 bu , $5,179,119 
Rye... 633,949 bu., $206,259 
Barley, 102,165 bu , $40,866 
Buckwh., 85,743 bu., $49,731 
Potatoes, 6,945,576 bu., $2,153,129 
Hay. . . 955,725 t's, $11,497,372 
School children enrolled, 

1893-4 541,.570 

Average attendance. . . 392,680 
Military Strength. 

Organized 2,581 

Available 481,192 

Newspapers, 1895 791 

Annual average precipi- 
tation, 1894 30.88 

Population of Chief Cities. 

Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Indianapolis 150,600 105,436 

Evansville 58,000 50,756 

Fort Wayne 43,000 35,393 

Terre Haute . . 34,000 30,217 

South Bend .... 25,000 21,819 

New Albany 24,000 21,059 

Richmond 19.000 16,608 

Lafayette 18,000 16,243 

INDIAN TER'Y. Page 246. 

Post-offices 419 

Railroads (miles), 1895, 955 

Manufactures $248,932 

Operatives 175 

Yearly wages $79,830 

Newspapers 39 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation 30.51 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated 1895. 1890. 

Mc Alester 4 ,000 3,025 

Muskogee 3,000 2,025 

Purcell 3,000 2,025 

Telequa 2,400 1,225 

IOWA. Page 253. 

Counties 99 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 2,000,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. 443,054 
For Harrison, R 219,688 



For Cleveland, D . . . . 196,4.58 

" Weaver, Pop. .. . 20,568 

" Bidwell, Pro.... 6,:M0 

Total vote cast, 1895. . 401,292 

For Drake, R 208,689 

" Babb, D 149,433 

" Crane, Pop 32,118 

" Bacon, Pro 11,052 

Governor, F. M. Drake 

Term expires Jan. 3, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives 1896. 11 

Republicans 11 

Post-offices 1,831 

Railroads (miles) 1895. 8,508 

Manufactures. . . . . . .$125,049,183 

Operatives 59, 174 

Yearly wages $25,878,997 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn. .298,502,6.50 bu., $53,730,477 
Wheat, 13,054,778 bu., $6,281,198 
Oats ..182,967,338 bu., $25,615,427 
Rye ... 1 ,554,970 bu. , $482,041 
Barley, 12,684,868 bu., $2,917,520 
Buckwh't,223,898 bu., $111,949 
Potat's,21,340,980 bu., $4,054,786 
Hay. . . 4,612,583 t's., $29,751,141 
School children en- 
rolled, 1893-4 522,731 

Average attendance, 331,408 
Military Strength. 

Organized 2,478 

Available 269,510 

Newspapers, 1895 979 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation 20.19 

Population of Chief Cities. 

Sto^e Census, 1895. 1890. 

Des Moines 56,359 50,093 

Dubuque 40,574 30,31 1 

Davenport 30,010 26, 872 

Sioux City 27,371 37,806 

Burlington 25,246 22,565 

Clinton & Lyons 23,.377 20,457 

Cedar Rapids . . .21,555 18,020 

Council Bluffs... 20,189 21,474 

Clinton 17,.375 14,0.58 

Ottumwa 16,761 14,001 

KANSAS. Page 263. 

Counties 106 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 1,350,000 

Total vote cast, 1802 . . 323,798 

For Weaver 1 63, 1 1 1 

" Harrison 156,134 

" Bidwell 4,553 

Total vote cast, 1894. 299,233 

For Morrill R. ... 148,697 
" Lewelliug, Pop. 118,3-29 
" Overmeyer, D... 26,709 
Governor, Edmund N. Morrill. 

Term expires, Jan'y 11, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives . 8 

Republicans 7 

Populist 1 

Post-offices, 1895. . 1,701 

Railroads (miles), 1895. 8,872 

Manufactures $110,219,805 

Operatives 32 843 

Yearly wages $16,-328,485 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn, .2(14 7.59 746 bu., $61,427,924 
Wheat, 22,919,.566 bu., $10,313,805 
Oats... 30 075,992 bu.,- $5,112,919 
Rye . . . 731 ,830 bu., $278,095 



Barley, 2,58,.365 bu., $59,434 
Buckwh't, 32,245 bu., $25,796 
Potat's, 7,869,240 bu., $.3,305,081 
Hay.... 4,181,289 Vs, $13,631,002 
School childi'en en- 
rolled 393,840 

Average attendance, 252,215 
Militai-y Strength. 

Organized 1 ,724 

Available, 100 000 

Newspapers, 1895 .... 707 
Annual average pre- 
cipitation 24 .23 

Population of Chief Cities. 

State Census, 1895. 1890. 

Kansas City 38 3 1 6 40,673 

Topeka .31,007 30,151 

Wichita 23,853 20,841 

Leavenworth ...19,768 20.822 

Atchison 15,500 31.963 

Fort Scott 11.946 11.108 

Lawrence 9,997 10,084 

KENTUCKY Page 273. 

Counties 119 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 2,200,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . . 340,844 

For Cleveland, D . . 175,461 

" Harrison, R. ... 135,441 

" Weaver, Pop... 23,500 

" Bidwell, Pro. 6,442 

Total vote cast, 1895 . . 357,057 

For Bradley, R 172,4.36 

" Hardin, D 163,524 

" Pettit, Pop 16,911 

" Demaree, Pro... 4,186 
Governor, Wm. O. Bradley. 

Term expires Dec'r 15, 1899. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896, 11 

Democrats 6 

Republicans 5 • 

Post-offices, 1895. .. 2,616 
Railroads (miles), 1895, 3,029 

Manufactures $126,719,857 

Operatives 65,579 

Yearly wages $27,761 ,746 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn,.. 93,939,331 bu. ,$25,363,619 
Wheat, 9,501,225 bu., $5,795,747 
Oats . . 13,252,458 bu. , $3,445,639 
Rye... 479,978 bu., $268,788 
Barley, 88,978 bu., $33,812 
Potatoes,3,908,184 bu., $1,524,192 
Hay. . . 693,718 t's, $7,589,275 
School children enrolled 

1893-4 467 451 

Average attendance . . 268 464 
Military Strength. 

Organized.. 1,471 

Available 405.000 

Newspapers 296 

Annual average precipi- 
tation 37.20 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Louisville 200,000 161,129 

Covington .50.000 37,371 

Newport 28,000 24,918 

Lexington 24,000 21,567 

LOUISIANA. Page 293. 

Counties 59 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 1,225,000 



A DDITIONA L ST A TIS TICS. 



943 



Total vote cast, 1893. . 114 186 

For Cleveland 87,682 

" Harrison 25,332 

" Weaver 1,232 

Governor, Murphy J. Foster. 
Term expires April 30, 1896. 

U. S. Representatives. 6 

Democrats 6 

Post-offices, 1895 . .. 1,008 

Railroads (miles), 1895 2,067 

Manufactures $57,806,713 

Operatives 31 ,901 

Yearly wages .... $13,159,564 
Farm Products, 1895. 

Corn. . . .22,574,284 hu , $0,029,714 

Oats .... 575,745 bu., $207,268 

Potatoes, 827,789 bu, 

Hay 74,532 t's. 

Cotton . 650,000 b'ls. 

School children en- 
rolled 

Average attendance. 

Military Strength. 

Organized 

Available 

Newspapers, 1895 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation 



$596,008 
$718,488 



1.55,470 
107,370 

1 249 

138,439 

173 

45.91 



PopUf^TiON OF Chief Cities. 
Eiftimated, 1895 1890. 

New Orleans .... 275,000 242,039 

Shreveport 15,000 11,979 

Baton Kouge... 13,000 10,478 

Page 311. 



16 

732,000 

116.358 

62,871 

48.044 

3,062 

2,381 

108 271 

69,599 

30,621 

2,730 

5,321 



MAINE. 

Counties 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 

Total vote cast, 1892 . . 

For Harrison, R 

"• Cleveland, D 
" Bidwell, Pro. ... 
" Weaver, Pop . . . 
Total vote cast. 1894 .. 

For Cleaves. R 

"■ Johnson, D 

'■ Hersey, Pro 

" Bateman, Pop. . 
Governor, Henry B. Cleaves. 
Term expires, Jan. 1, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives, 4 

Republicans 4 

Post-offices, 1895 1,188 

Railroads (miles), 1895 1,621 

Manufactures $95,689,500 

Operati ves 75,780 

Yearly wages $26,526 217 

Farm Products 1895. 
Corn. .. 596.904 bu.. 
Wheat. . 83,808 bu . 
5,5.51,484 bu, 
19.2.58 bu., 
408,467 bu . 
Buckwh't, 917,908 bu , 
Potat's, 10,139,089 bu.. 
Hay ... 1,127.0.31 fs., $10,909,660 
School children en- 
rolled 

Average attendance. 
Military Strength. 

Organized 

Available 

Newspapers, 1895 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation 



Population op Chief Cities. 

Estimated,\m'a. 1890. 

Portland 40,000 36 425 

Lewiston 23,000 21,701 

Bangor.. ..- . 21,000 19,103 

Biddeford 16,000 14,413 

Auburn 13 000 11,250 

Augusta 12,000 10,527 

MARYLAND. Page 321. 
Counties. . , 24 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 1,138,348 

Total vote cast. 1892. . . 213 275 
For Cleveland, D.... 11.3,866 

" Harrison, R 92,7.36 

" Bidwell Pop.... 5 877 
" Weaver, Pro 796 

Total vote cast, 1895. . . 240 205 
For Lowndes, R . . . . 124,936 

" Hurst, D 106,169 

" Levering, Pro... 7,719 

Governor, Lloyd Lowndes. 
Term expires Jan'y 8, 1900. 

U. S. Representatives, 1896, 6 

Republicans 3 

Democrats 3 

Post-offices 1895 1 

Railroads (miles), 1895, 1 

Manufactures $1 71 ,842 

Operatives 107, 

Y'early wages $41 526 

Farm Products, 1895. 

Corn.. 1,531,205 bu., $6,116, 

Wheat, 1 800,756 bu,, $4,992, 

Oats.. 2,320,010 bu.. 

Rye. . 379,712 bu., 

Buckwh., 83,570 bu., 

Potat's, 2,.366,400 bu., 

Hay, 436,298 t's. 

School children enrolled, 

1893-4 204 

Average attendance. . . 116 

Military Strength. 

Organized 1, 

Available 160 

Newspapers 

Annual average precipi- 
tation 3' 



Railroads (miles), 1895 2,124 

Manufactures $888,160,403 

Operatives 485,182 

Yearly wages $239,670,509 

Farm Products, 1895. 

Corn 1,847,224 bu., $900,556 

Oats... 5i9,864bu., $186 954 

Rye 205,806 bu., $137,890 

Barley... 41.378 bu., $26,896 
Buckwht, .37.470 bu., $22,107 
Potatoes,4,.303,082 bu., $2 065,479 
Hay. .. 649,838t's., $11,372,165 
School children en- 
rolled 400,609 

Average attendance, 299,069 
Military Strength. 

Organized 6,006 

Available 389,529 

Newspapers, 1895 657 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation 41.89 



$186, 



$709. 
$5,039, 



Oats. 

Rye 

Barley.. 



$.322,.328 

$68,723 

M, 887,505 

$16..369 

$212,403 

$422,238 

^3,447,290 



135,815 
90,115 

1,241 
98,978 

184 



29.98 



Population of Chief City. 
Estimated. 1895. 1890. 
Baltimore 500,000 434,439 

MASSACHUSETTS. P. 339. 

Counties 14 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 2,495.343 

Total vote cast, 1892.. 391,175 

For Harrison. R . . 202,814 

'• Cleveland, D.... 176,813 

" Bidwell, Pro.... 7,.539 

" Weaver, Pop .. 3,210 

" Wing, Labor. . 649 

Total vote cast, 1895.. .328,121 

For Greenhalge. R. . 186.280 

" Williams. D 121,599 

" Brown, Pop 7,786 

" Kendall, Pro 9,170 

Governor, F. T. Greenhalge. 

Term expires Jan. 2, 1897. 

U. S. Representatives. 13 

Republicans 12 

Democrat 1 

Post-offices, 1895 865 



Population 
Estima 

Boston 

Worcester. . . . 
Fall River . . . 
Lowell 
Caiii bridge . . , 

Lynn 

New Bedford, 
Somerville.. 
Lawrence . . . 
Springfield . . . 
Holyoke . . . . 



OF Chief 
ted, 1895. 
. . .500,000 
.100,000 
, .. 90,000 
... 84,300 
,.. 83,000 
.. 62,000 
... 55,000 
.. 54,000 
...53,000 
. . 52,000 
. . 40,000 



Cities. 
1890. 
448.477 
84,655 
74,.398 
77,696 
70,028 
55,727 
40,7.33 
40,152 
44,6.54 
44,179 
35,637 



MICHIGAN. Page 401. 



85 



Counties 

Population, 1896 (esti 

mated) 2,297,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . . 4.59,505 

For Harrison, R 222,708 

'• Cleveland, D.... 202,296 
" Weaver, Pop.... 19,892 

" Bidwell, Pro 14,609 

Total vote cast, 1894.. . . 416,838 

For Rich, R 2.37,215 

" Fisher. D 130,823 

" Nichols Pop 30,012 

" Todd, Pro 18,788 

Governor, J. T. Rich. 

Term expires Dec'r 31, 1896. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896, 12 

Republicans 12 

Post-offices, 1 895 1 ,991 

Railroads (miles), 1895 7,474 

Manufactures $277,896,706 

Operatives 1 63,941 

Yearly wages $66,347,798 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn . . .33,600.242 bu. ,$10,7.52,077 
Wheat, 15,2:^7,803 bu., $9,142,682 
Oats.. 23,205.192 bu 
Rve^. . 1,491,254 bu 
Barlev, 1 2.55.344 l)u 
Buckwh., 629,314 bu 
Potat's, 23.916.497 bu., $3,826,640 
Hay. . 720.968 fs, $9,437,471 
School children enrolled, 

1893-4 408,979 

Average attendance... 286,077 
Military Strength. 

Organized 2,878 

Available 260,000 

Newspapers, 1895 ...... 741 



$5,3.50,994 
$.596..502 
$539,798 
$270,605 



944 



jaNU'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Animal averast* precipi- 
tatiou 31.71 

Popiij^ATioN OF Chief Cities. 

Estimated, 18<)5. 1890. 

Detroit 300,000 20.5,876 

(Jraiul Rapids. . . . 90,000 60,278 

Sasiiiaw .... 45,000 46,323 

Bay City 33,000 27,839 

Jackson* .... 24,000 20.798 

IMuskepon 24,000 22,702 

Kalamazoo 22,000 17,8.53 

Adrian 10,000 8,756 

MINNESOTA. Page 419. 

Counties 80 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 1,610,000 

Total vote east, 1892. . . 266,611 

For Harrison, R 122,736 

" Cleveland, I). . . . 100,.579 

'• AVeaver, Pop . . . 29.279 

" Bidwell, Pro... 14,017 

Total vote cast, 1894 . . 296,355 

For Nelson, R 147,944 

" Becker, D 53,579 

" Owen, Pop 87,931 

" Hilleboe, Pro... 6,879 

Governor, D. M. Clough. 

Term expires Jan. 1, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives. 7 

Republicans 7 

Post-offlces, 1895 1,396 

Railroads (miles), 1895 6,039 

Jlanufactures $792,033,478 

Operatives 79,629 

Yearly wages ... $38,189,239 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn. . ..35,956,690 bu., $7,191,338 
Wheat. 65,584, 155 bu., $28,857,028 
Oats... .77,995,084 bu., $10,919,312 
Rye . . 1,485 588 bu., $415,965 
Barley .17,437,284 bu., $4,184,948 
Buekwh"t,279,.50O bu., $142,545 
Potat's,23,991 ,036 bu., $3,358,745 
Hay. 2,041,768 t's, $10,453,802 
School children en- 
rolled. 337,861 

Average attendance. 209,307 
Military Strength. 

Organized 1,900 

Available 160,000 

New.spapers. 1895.. 554 
Average annual Pre- 
cipitation 24.61 

Population of Chief Cities. 

Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Minneapolis .... 192,833 164,738 

St. Paul 140,292 133,1.56 

Duliith 59,396 33,115 

Winona 20,649 18,208 

St. Cloud 16,669 7,686 

Stillwater 12,004 11,260 

Mankato.. .. 10,173 8,838 

MISSISSIPPI. Page 437 

Counties 75 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 1,351,850 

Total vote cast, 1892. . . 52,809 

For Cleveland, D . . . . 40,237 

" Harrison. R 1,406 

" AVeaver, Pop 10,256 

" Bidwell, Pro 910 



Governor, Anselm J. McLain-in. 

Term expires Jan'y 1, 1900. 
U. S. Representatives, 

1896 7 

Democrats 7 

Post-offices, 1895 ] ,.^86 

Railroads (miles), 1895, 2,487 

Jlanufactures $18,705,834 

Operatives 15,817 

Yearly wages $4,913,863 

Farm Products. 1895. 
Corn. . 35,977,169 bu,, $13,311, 5.53 
Wheat, 37,184 bu., $22,682 
Oats.. 5,210.172 bu., $2,188,272 
Potatoes, 363,196 bu., $232,445 
Hay .... 148.432 fs, $1,439 790 
Cotton, 1,200,000 bales 
School children enrolled, 

1893-1 34,5,584 

Average attendance . . 206,247 
Military Strength , 

Organized 1,760 

Available 233,480 

Kewspapers, 1895 177 

Annual average precipi- 
tation 52 86 

Population op Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Vicksburg 15,000 13,373 

Meridian 1 3,000 10,624 

Natches 12,000 10,101 

MISSOURI. PAGE 443. 

Counties 115 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 3,200,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . , 540,344 

For Cleveland, D . . . . 268,0.39 

" Harrison, R. ... 226,824 

" AVeaver, Pop .., 41.183 

" Bidwell, Pro 4,298 

Total vote cast, 1894. . . 503,322 
For Robinson, R., 

(Judge Sup. Ct . ) 229,641 

'• Black, D 226,547 

" Jones, Pop 42,463 

Governor, AVilliam J. Stone. 
Term expires Jan'y 1, 1897. 
U S. Representatives, 

1896 15 

Republicans 10 

Democrats 5 

Post-offlces, 1895 2,725 

Railroads (miles) 1895. 6,517 

Blanufactures $324,561,993 

Operatives 143,1.39 

Yearly wages $76,417,364 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn.. 238,072,248 bu., $47,614,450 
AVheat, 18,499,968 bu., $9,434,984 
Oats. . 30,547,699 bu., $5 498,586 
Rye... 246,233 bu., $96,031 
Barley, 14,.382 bu., $6,903 
Buckvvh., 28,254 bu., $16,387 
Rotates, 10,76.5,276 bu., $2,691,.3l9 
Hay... 2,725,785 t's,$l 8,535,338 
School children enrolled, 

1893-4 6,57.505 

Average attendance . . . 469,846 
Military Strength. 

Organized 2,096 

Available 380,000 

Newspapers, 1895 937 

Annual average precipi- 
tation 38 94 



Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

St. Louis 600,000 451,770 

Kansas City 1.50,000 132,716 

St. Joseph 60,000 52,-324 

Springfield 30,000 21,850 

MONTANA. PAGE 509. 

Counties 16 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 185,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . . 44,285 

For Harrison, R 18.851 

" Cleveland, D.... 17,581 
" Weaver, Pop ... 7,3.34 

" Bidwell, Pro 519 

Governor, John E. Rickards. 
Term expires Jan'y 4, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896, 1 

Republicans 1 

Post-offices, 1895 397 

Railroads (miles ) , 1895, 2,824 

Manufactures $5,507,573 

Operatives 2,696 

Y'early wages.. .... $1,948,213 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn,. 33,275 bu., $24,956 

AVheat, 1,065,223 bu., $777,613 
Oats.. 2,446,071 bu., $1,076,271 
Barley, 142,525 bu., $84,090 
Potatoes, 288,426 bu., $138,444 
Hay.. 292.657 Cs, $.3,.3.36,290 
School children enrolled, 

1893-4 25,720 

Average attendance . . . 16,423 
Blilitary Strength. 

Organized 517 

Available 25,000 

Newspapers, 1895 91 

Annual average precipi- 
tation 13.84 

Population op Chief Cities. 

Estimated, 1895. 1890 

Butte City 17,500 10,831 

Helena 16,000 1.3,a34 

(ireat Falls 7,000 3,979 

Anaconda 6,.500 3,975 

Missoula 5,000 3,426 

Livingston 4,000 2,8.50 

Bozeman 3,500 2,143 

NEBRASKA. Page 519. 

Counties 91 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 1,158,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . . 199,.314 

For Harrison, R 87,213 

" AVeaver, Pop.. . 82 256 

" Cleveland, D .. 24,943 

'' Bidwell, Pro 4,902 

Total vote cast, 1894. . . 204,016 

For Holcomb, D 97,815 

" Majors, R 94,613 

" Sturdevant, S. D. 6,985 
Governor, Silas A. Holcomb. 
Term expires Jan'y 4, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives.. 6 

Republicans 5 

Populist 1 

Post-offlces, 1 895 1 ,089 

Railroads (miles), 1895, 5,541 

Manufactures $93,037,794 

Operatives 23,876 

Y'early wages .$12,984,571 



ADDITIONAL ST A TISTICS. 



945 



Farm Products, 1805. 
Corn. .]25,685,nfi9 bu., §22,623,312 
Wheat, 14,7Hr,024 bu.. $5,914,810 
Oats. . . 39,911 .090 bu., $5,587,637 
Rye .... 598.994 bu. , $179,698 
Barley, 1,393,048 bu., $334,.332 
Buckwh., 56,481 bu., $.36,713 
Potatoes,7. 994,373 bu., $2..398.312 
Hay... 1.811 ,454 fs. $6,448,776 
School children enrolled. 273,052 
Average attendance. . . 171,198 
Military Strength. 

Organized 1 ,248 

Available 132.0(X) 

Newspapers, 1895 614 

Annual average precipi- 
tation 13.06 

Population of Chief Cities. 

Estimated. 1895. 1890. 

Omaha 160,000 140,452 

Lincoln 75,000 55,154 

Beatrice 20,000 13,a36 

Hastings ... 20,000 13,584 

Xebra,ska City. .. 15,000 11,494 

NEVADA. PACE. 531. 

Counties 14 

Population, 1896 -(esti- 
mated) 60,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . . 10 878 

For Weaver, Pop 7,264 

•' Harrison, R 2,811 

" Cleveland, D . . . 714 

" Bidwel!. Pro 89 

Total vote cast, 1894. . . 10,473 

For Cleveland, D . . . . 3 861 

'■ Jones. Silver ... 5,523 

" Peckham, Pop . . 719 

Scattering 678 

Governor, John E. Jones. 

Term expires Jan"y 2. 1899. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896, 1 

Populist 1 

Post-offices, 1895 168 

Railroads f miles), 1895, 922 

Manufactures $l,105,06;i 

Operatives 620 

Yearly wages $445,503 

Farm Products. 1895. 
AVheat, 122.627 bu., $60,087 
Barley, 862,578 bu., $131,289 
Potatoes, 213,000 bu., $80,940 
Hay... 466,965 tX $3,152,014 
School childi'en enrolled, 

189:i^ 6,827 

Average attendance. . . 5,047 
Military Strength. 

Organized 549 

Available 6,248 

Newspapers, 1895 29 

Annual average precipi- 
tation 11.73 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated 1895. 1890. 

Virginia City 8,000 8.511 

Carson City 4.000 . 3,950 

NEW HAMPSHIRE. P. 537. 

Counties 10 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 400,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . 89,327 

For Harrison. R . . . . 45,658 

" Cleveland, D.... 42,081 



For Bidwell, Pro 1 ,296 

" Weaver, Pop 292 

Total vote cast, 1891. . . 83.032 

For Busiel, R 46,491 

" Kent. D 33 959 

" Epps, Pop 8.32 

" Knowles, Pro 1,750 

Governor Charles A. Busiel. 
Term expires Jan'y 6, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896, 2 

Republicans 2 

Post-offices, 1895 559 

Railroads (miles), 1895, 1,170 

Manufactures $85,770,549 

Operatives 6:3,301 

Yearly wages $24,248,054 

Farin Products, 1895. 
Corn.. 1,079,531 bu., $.550..561 
Wheat, 48,134 bu., $36,582 
Oats . . 1 ,094, 1 22 bu. , $382,943 
Rye . . 16,208 bu., $12,318 

Barley, 1.36,576 bu., $76.4a3 
Buckwh., 9.5,919 bu., $45,082 
Potat's, 3.134,930 bu., $1,003,178 
Hay.. .590..527 fs. $7,381,588 

School children enrolled, 

1893-4 62,437 

Average attendance, 42,030 
Military Strength. 

Organized 1,337 

Available 55,000 

Newspapers, 1895 114 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation 30.42 

Population of Chief Cities. 

Estimated. 1895. 1890. 

Manchester 55,000 44,126 

Nashua 22,000 19.311 

Concord 19,000 17.004 

Dover 14,000 12.790 

Portsmouth 10,000 9,827 

NEW JERSEY. PAGE 549. 

Counties 21 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 1,672.942 

Total vote cast, 1892. . . 337,547 
For Cleveland, D. . . . 171,048 

" Harrison. R 156,068 

" BidweU, Pro 8,131 

" Wing 1,337 

" Weaver, Pop ... 969 

Total vote cast, 1895. . . 311,618 

For Griggs, R 162,900 

" McGill, D 136.000 

" Wilbur, Pro. 6.661 

'• Klein, Soc. Lab.. 4.147 

Scattering 1,901 

Governor, John W. Griggs. 

Term expires Jan'y 16, 1899. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896, 8 

Republicans 8 

Post-offlces, 1895 902 

Railroads (miles), 1895, 2,205 

Manufactures $354,373,571 

Operatives 187,398 

Yearly Wages $96,778,736 

Farm Products, 1895. 

Corn 9,233,004 bu., $.3,877,862 

Wheat. . .1,.'M0,924 bu., $952,056 

Oats 3,818,416 bu., $1,107,341 

Rye 988.448 bu. , $504, 108 

Buckwh., 252,6.56 bu., $126,328 
Potatoes, 4.600,548 bu., $1,5M,186 
Hay 599,486 t's, $7,577,.503 



School children enrolled, 249,.5H8 
Average attendance. . . 151,273 

Military Strength. 

Organized 3,970 

Available 284.887 

Newspapers, 1895 370 

Annual average precipi- 
tation 40.26 

Population of Chief Cities. 

State Census, 1895. 1890. 

Newark 215.H(JG 181,8.30 

Jersey City 182, 71 3 163,003 

Paterson 97.*14 78,347 

Camden 63.467 58.313 

Trenton 62,518 57,458 

Hoboken 54,0*3 43,648 

Elizabeth 43,a34 37,764 

Orange.......... 22,792 18,814 

New Brunswick. 19,910 18,003 

Bayonne 19,856 19,033 

NEW MEXICO. Page: 567. 

Counties 14 

Population 18% (esti- 
mated) 1&5,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . . 31 ,019 

For Joseph, D 15,799 

'• Catron, R 15,220 

Total vote cast, 1894. . . 35,301 
For Catron, R., U. S. 

Delegate 1H.113 

" Joseph, D 15,:i51 

" Mills. Pop \,ma 

Governor, William T. Thornton. 

Term expires April 21, 1897. 
Delegate in Congress, . . 1 

Republican 1 

Post-offlces, 1895 .306 

Railroads (miles), 1895, 1,510 

Manufactures $1,516,195 

Operatives 944 

Yearly wages $532,727 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn.. 733,203 bu., $410,.594 
W^heat, 809,248 bu., $590,751 
Oats.. 393,773 bu., $177,198 

Barley, 51,8.56 bu., $:i5,262 

Potatoes, 59,:J60 bu., $:}7,397 
Hay.. 120,637 t's. $965,096 

School children enroUed, 

1893-4 21,471 

Average attendance, . . 16,987 
Military Strength. 

Organized 470 

Available 25,000 

Newspapers, 1895 52 

Annual average precipi- 
tation 12.72 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Santa Fe 6.000 6,185 

Albuquerque 7,0f)0 5,518 

Las Vegas 6,000 4,697 

NEW YORK. Page 575. 

Counties 60 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 6,690,842 

Total vote cast. 1892. . . 1,336,942 

For Cleveland, D. . . . 654,908 

" Harrison, R. . . . 609,459 

" BidweU, Pro 38,190 

" Wing 17,956 

" Weaver, Pop 16,429 



KING'S 



946 

Total vote cast, 1805 . . 1,169,917 

^^tliT"'^-"^""'- 601.205 

ForKfugVD: 511,060 

" Smith, Pro...... 25,239 

" PiUenz, Soc. Lab. 21,49< 
" Wakeman, Pop.. o,91b 
Governor, Levi P. Morton 

Term expires Dec. 31, IB'Jb 
U. S. Representatives.. 

Republicans ^j 

Democrats " 

Post-offices, 1895 ..... 
Railroads (miles), 1895^ 



IIANDLWOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



Operatives. 



35 



3.fj22 

8,148 



Manufactures ^^'■"^^'oln'nfii 

Operatives fiJ^z 

Yearly wages $460,846,04^ 

Farm Products, 18'.)5. 
Corn. . .18,014,170 bu., fS406,3. < 
Vvheat. 7 301,069bu., $4 964,727 
Oats. . .45,666,354 bu., $12, '8^.5<9 
■Rve 4 328,144 bu., $2,0(<,.509 

larleV: 5 4?3 215bu.. $4,433,304 
iuckw., 5 982:370 bu., $2,632 243 
Potat's, 51 ,749,350 bu., f 11,90^,351 
Hay ... 3,.557.524 t's $48,-38,079 

^tTeV'"'.''"".!"- 1.124,998 
Average attendance, 731,063 
Military Strength. 

Organized -in nm 

AvEfilable '50,000 

Newspapers, 1895 ... 1,993 

Annual average precipi- 

tation '^'■^^ 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895 1890 

vr Y City 2,000,000 1,513,301 

Brooklyn^ 1,150,000 ^ -^ 

Buftalo 350,000 

Rochester ^^'^'^^ 

Syracuse. - . 115,000 

Mbany mOOO 

n^vov 64,000 

UtiJa.- 50,000 

Binghamton... 4.5,000 
Longlsland City, 45.000 

Yonkers 38,000 

Schenectady 27,500 

Cohoes 25 000 

Poughkeepsie. 25,000 

Page 645 



36,214 
Yea'rly wages.':.';:: . . $7,a30„536 

Farm Products 1895 
Com ..36,378,412 bu., $13,823,797 
Wheai:: 4 748:552 bu., «3 41H,957 
Oats. . . . 7,652,333 bu., $2 90, ,88, 
Rye .. 437 599 bu., $2««J,06.3 
Buckwh. 18,624 bu., $8,195 

Potatl. 1,461 026 bu., $803,564 
Hay .... 273,.540 fns, $2,773,696 
Cotton.. 465,000 bales. 
School children en- 

rolled, 1893^. 3<0,890 

Average attendance.. ^du,.wi 
Military Strength. 

Organized „.,Vmn 

Available 240,000 

Newspapers, 1895 200 

Annual average pre- 

cipitation °'-"' 

Population of Chief Cities. 



31 



Estimated, 1895. 

Wilmington 22,500 

Raleigh 14.'« 

Charlotte l-;5-W0 

Asheville 12,000 

Whiston 10,000 



1890. 
20,056 
12,678 
11,5,57 
10,235 
8,018 



N. DAKOTA. Page 655. 



Counties ;••/." 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) „•„",•■ 

Total vote cast, 1892 
For Weaver, Pop. . 



54 



225,000 
36,092 
17,676 



OHIO. PAGE 661. 

Counties ^ 

Population, 1896 (esti- 

mated) 4,000,000 

Total vote cast, 1892... 850,127 

For Harrison, R I^^J?! 

" Cleveland, D . . . . 404,113 

" BidvveH, Pro 26,00- 

" Weaver, Pop.... 14,818 
Total vote cast, 1 895 . . . 837,466 

For Bushnell, R 427,141 

" Campbell, D 334,519 

" Coxey, Pop 52,6<5 

" Ellis, Pro 21,264 

Governor, Asa Bushnell. 

Term expires Jan y l-i, i»^ 
U. S. Representatives. 1896, 

Republicans 19 

Democrats 2 

Post-offices, 1 895 3,301 

Railroads (miles, 1895 8,.5,4 

Manufactures ^^'^^'j^T'^dft 

Operatives 331 ,54» 

Y'early wages $1.58,(OS,»».i 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn. . .92,783,186 bu., $25,051,460 
Wheat.32 215,579 bu., $19,329,347 
Oats . . .31,404,493 bu., $b,908,988 
Rve 826,254 bu., $371,814 
B&y: 824:681 bu., $m 9 
Buckwh 182,193 bu., ^$100,200 
Rotates. 13, 107,0^ bu., $4,194,248 
Hay... 1,046,064^8. $13,-347,777 
School children enrolled, 809,-80 
Average attendance 5»3,&J» 



Harrison, R ^"'onS 



806,343 
255,664 
133,896 
88,143 
94,923 
60,956 
44,007 
35,005 
30,506 
30,893 
32,003 
19,902 
22,509 
22,206 



897 

41,265 

23,723 

8,188 

9,354 



Bidwell, Pro . 
Total vote cast, 1894. . 

For Allin, R 

" Kinter, D 

" Wallace, Pop... 
Governor, Roger Alhn 

Term expires, Jan. 5, i»y( . 
TJ. S. Representative 1896. 1 

Republican 1 

Post-offices, 1.895 .... 530 

Railroads (miles), 1895 2,5-8 

Blanufactures $5'02«,w^ 

Operatives no? S«1 

Yearly Wages . . ...... $1,002,881 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn .... 658,979 bu. ,^ J158,155 



Military Strength. 

Organized 6,U5|r 

Available <545,C»0 

Newspapers, 1895 1,140 

Annual average precipi- 

tation 26.65 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890 

Cincinnati 36.5,000 296,908 

Cleveland 345.000 261 ,353 

Tolldo 125.000 81,434 

Columbus IW 

Dayton 85,000 

Springfield 40,000 

Youngstown 40,000 

Canton 35,000 

Zanesville 23,000 



N. CAROLINA 

Counties •.. 

Population, 1896 (estu ^ 

Tot^Svote'cak,1892.. 281,025 
For Cleveland, D... 

" Harrison, R 

" Weaver, Pop... 

" Bidwell, Pro.... 

Total vote cast, 1894.. 

For Faireloth, R.-P. 

(C'liiff .J\istice) 

" Shepherd, D... 

Governor, Elias Carr. 

Term expires Jan y 1, IBJ^ 
U. S. Representatives, 

Republicans 4 

Democrats 3 

Populists 2 

Post-offices, 1895 

Railroads (miles), 1895 



96 



133.098 

100,565 

44,732 

2,630 

275,937 

148,344 



WhUt;.'61,q57J7J0bu.,$23,201,930 ^^.^nay '.•::.. . 21-000 

ftma ::::: 20:000 

Hamiiton:: 20,000 



oats.... 19:067,914 bu, $3,050,866 
Rve ... 45,4-6 bu., «'i~,~'2 
girley. 8,839 2«6bu.,$l,767.8o7 
Buckwh't, 1530 bu., ^$,-1!?^ 
Potat's. 5,192,448 bu., J^^t\]1 
Hay.... 585,377 t's, $2,03,, 112 
School childi-en en- 
rolled 

Average attendance 
Military Strength. 

Organized „ 

Available 50,(100 

■,™„v^<»,.C IRO.'S 139 



88,150 
61,220 
31,895 
33,220 
26,189 
21,009 
18,553 
18,471 
15,981 
17,565 



47,361 
32,305 



.545 



127,593 Newspapers ,1895 

Annual' average pre 

cipitation 

Population of Chief Cities, 



OKLAHOMA TEB. Page 693. 

Counties ••••;.• 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) • 

Total vote cast, 1892... 

Total vote, 1894. ...... 

For Flynn, R. (Del. 
to Congress) . 



275,000 
21,216 
48,495 

20,449 



16.04 



2,876 
3,371 



Manufactures $40,375,450 



Estimated, 1895. 

Fargo 7,500 

Grand Forks 7,00() 

Jamestown 3..500 

Bismarck 3,000 



1890. 
5,664 
4,979 
2,296 
2,186 



ForWisby,D ...... 12,058 

" Beaumont, Pop. 15,98S 
Governor, Wm. C. Rmfrew. 

Term expires May 6 189- . 
Delegate to Congress^ 1896. i 

Republican 1 .^q 

Post-offices, 1895 ..... 468 

Railroads (miles), 1895 45B 

Manufactures $i»u,i«i) 



A DDiriONA L S TA TIS TICS. 



947 



Operatives 195 

Yearly wages $71,918 

Farm Products, 1895. 

Wheat. . .2,592,656 bu., $1,244,475 

School children en- 
rolled 31,048 

Average attendance. 16,900 

Military Strength. 

Organized 130 

Available 10,000 

Newspapers, 1895 Ill 

Annual average pi-e- 

cipitatiou S5.43 

Population of Chief Cities. 

Estimated, 189.5. 1890. 

Guthrie 8,0(J0 5,333 

Oklahoma City. . .7,000 4,151 

Kingfisher 2,000 1,134 

OREGON. Page 697. 

Counties 31 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 400,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . 87,339 

For Weaver, Pop . . . 35,813 

" Harrison, R . . . . 35,002 

" Cleveland, D.... 14,243 

" Bidwell, Pro.... 2,281 

Total vote cast, 1894. . 87,265 

For Lord, R 41,034 

" Galliway, D 17,498 

" Pierce, Pop 26,0:« 

Governor, Wm. P. Lord. 

Term expires Jan. 8. 1899. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896. 3 

Republicans 2 

Post offices, 1895 798 

Railroads (miles), 1895 1,514 

Manufactures $41,4.32,174 

Operatives 18,798 

Yearly wages $11,535,229 

Farm Products, 1895. 

Corn 353.628 bu., $194,495 

Wheat. . .11,862,720 bu., $5,575,478 
Oats .... 7,240,982 hu., $1,955,005 

Rye 68,454 bu. , $36,965 

Barley... 768,682 bu., $307,473 
Buckwh., 3,875 bu., $1,938 
Potatoes. 1,124,544 bu., $4;i8,573 

Hay 1,166,165 t's,$7,136,930 

School children en- 
rolled 77,941 

Average attendance 58,984 
Military Strength. 

Organized 1 ,.565 

Available 46,365 

Newspapers. 1895 189 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation 47.57 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Portland 81 ,000 46,385 

E. Portland 15,aX) 10,532 

Salem 13,000 10,422 

PENNSYLVANIA. Paqe 709. 

Counties 67 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated ) 5,760,128 

Total vote cast, 1892. . . 1,003,310 

For Harrison, R 576,011 

'• Cleveland, 1) 452,264 

" Bidweh, Pro 25,123 

" Weaver, Pop 8,714 

" Wing 898 



Total vote cast, 1894 .. . 951 , 1 32 

For Hastings, R 574,801 

" Singerly, D 33:3.404 

" Hawley, Pro ... . 23,443 

" Ailman, Pop 19.484 

Governor, D. H. Hastings. 

Term expires Jan'y 17, 1899. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896, 29 

Republicans 27 

Democrats 2 

Post-offices, 1895 4,980 

Railroads (miles) 1895, 9,511 

Manufactures $1,-331,794,901 

Operatives 620,562 

Yearly wages $355,591,003 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn... 43,512,681 bu., $16,969,946 
Wheat. 20,456,429 bu., $13,296,679 
Oats ...36,536,311 bu., $9,864,804 
Rye.... 4,676,923 bu., $2,338,462 
Barley. 258,843 bu., $106,126 
Buckwh 4,568,960 bu., $2,010,342 
Potat's.2.3,193,228bu., $6,494,104 
Hay . . . 2,872,047 t's. $35,326,178 
School children en- 
rolled 1,062,999 

Average attendance 759,5')0 
Blilitary Strength. 

Organized... 8,9.32 

Available 806,230 

Newspapers, 1895 1,433 

Annual average precipi- 
tation 36.05 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Philadelpliia. .1,.350,000 1,046,964 

Pittsburg 275,000 238,617 

Allegheny .... 120,000 105,287 

Scran ton 110,000 75,215 

Reading 90,000 58,661 

Erie 55,000 40,634 

Harrisburg . . . 55,000 39,-385 

AVilkesbarre . . 51.500 37,718 

Altoona 42,000 30,337 

Lancaster.... 36,000 32,011 

Williamsport. 30,000 27,132 

RHODE ISLAND. Page 763. 

Counties 5 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 384,7-58 

Total vote cast, 1892. . 53,193 

For Harrison, R 26,975 

" Cleveland,©.... 24,336 

" Bidwell, Pro.... 1,6&4 

" Weaver, Pop ... 228 

Total vote cast, 1895. . 44,111 

For Lippitt, R 25,098 

" Littl6fleld, D. .. 14,289 

" Quimby, Pro . . . 2,624 

" Boomer, S. L... 1,730 

Governor, Chas. W. Lippitt. 

Term expires May 28, 1890. 

U. S. Representatives. 2 

Republicans 2 

Post-offices, 1 895 144 

Railroads (miles), 1895 225 

Manufactures $142,500,625 

Operatives 85,976 

Yearly wages $37,927,92^ 

Farm Products, 1695 

Corn 284,805 bu., $159,491 

Oats 121,986 bu., $47,575 

Barley... 8,9.>4 bu., $6,716 
Potatoes .1,010,712 bu., $454,820 



Hay 74,817 t's, $1 ,290,593 

School children en- 

r.jlled 55,671 

Average attendance. . 38,587 
Military Strength. 

Organized 1,372 

Available 73,945 

Newspapers, 1895 70 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation ... . 38.06 

Population of Chief Cities. 

Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Providence 160,000 132,146 

Pawtucket 33,000 27,633 

Woonsocket.... 25,000 20,830 

Lincoln 23,000 20,-355 

Newport 22,000 19,457 

Warwick 20,000 17,761 

S. CAROLINA. Page 781. 

Counties 35 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 1,375,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . 70,492 

For Cleveland, D.... 54,698 

" Harrison, R ... . 13,384 

" Weaver, Pop .. . 2,410 

Total vote cast, 1891 . . 56,785 

For Evans, D 39,507 

" Pope, Ind. Dem. 17,278 
Governor, John Gary Evans. 
Term expires Dec. 10, 1896. 
U. S. Representatives. 7 

Democrats 7 

Post-offices, 1 893 1 ,265 

Railroads (miles), 1895 2,617 

Manufactures $31,926,681 

Operatives 24,662 

Yearly wages $6,590,983 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn . . . .19,860,908 bu., $9,136,018 
Wheat.. 858,624 bu., 7-55,589 
Oats .... 4,390,322 bu., $2,151,258 

Rye 41,041 bu., $47,197 

Potatoes, 401,400 bu., $293,022 
Hay .... 144,986 t^s, $1,104,793 
Cotton . . 750,000 bis. 
School children en- 
rolled 226,766 

Average attendance . . 165,115 
Military Strength. 

Oi'ganized 4,674 

Available 181,000 

Newspapers, 1895 119 

Ainmal average pre- 
cipitation 48.24 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Charleston 62,500 54,955 

Columbia 18,000 15,3.53 

Greenville 9,500 8,607 

SOUTH DAKOTA. PAGE 789. 

Counties 78 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) -3.32,000 

Total vote east, 1892 70,114 

For Harrison, R 34,825 

" Weaver, Po]) 26,382 

" Cleveland, D 8,907 

Total vote cast, 1894 76,736 

For Sheldon, R 40.401 

" Howe, Pop 26,568 

" Ward, D 8,756 

•' Alexander, Pro... 1,011 



948 



A7X(;'S HAXDBOOK OF TIIF. rXITF.D STATES. 



(jtovernor, Cliarles II. Sheldon. 

Term expires Jan'j' 1, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896, 2 

Repulilieaus a 

Post-oftiees. 1S05 665 

Railroails( miles;, 1895.. 2,797 

Manufactures $5,682,748 

Operatives 2,422 

Yearly wages $1,098,418 

Farm Products. 1895. 
Corn . . . 12,423,442 bu. , $2,857,392 
Wheat. 29.261 ,088 bu., $11,119,213 
• )ats. . .39,911,696 bu., $5,587,637 
Uye.... 37,968 bu., $9,492 

Barley. 2,543,678 bu., $483,299 
Buckwh., 16,150 l)u., $9,690 

Potat's. 4.037,154 bu., $1,049,660 
Hay.... 1,547,768 fs. $.5,092,157 
School children enrolled, 

1896 88,026 

Average attendance 54,400 

Military Strength. 

Organized 799 

Available :^,000 

Newspapers, 1895 264 

Annual average precipi- 
tation 12.52 

Population op Chief Cities. 
Estimated. 1895. 1890. 

Sioux Falls 13,000 10,177 

Yankton 5,000 3,670 

Pierre 4.000 3,035 

Aberdeen 3,500 3,182 

TENNESSEE. Page 795. 

Counties 96 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 1,800,000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . 264,928 
For Cleveland, D. . . 136,477 

" Harrison, R 99,973 

" Weaver, Pop.... 2.3,622 

" Bid well, Pro.... 4,856 

Total vote cast, 1894 . . 2,35,093 

For Evans, R 105,104 

" Turney, D 104,3.56 

" Minis, Pop 23,092 

Governor, Peter Turney. 

Term expires Jan. 15, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives, 1890, 10 

Republicans 4 

Democrats (J 

Post-offices, 1895 2,6.36 

Railroads (miles) 1895 3,124 

Manufactures $72,355,286 

Operatives 42,759 

Yearly wages $16,899,351 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn. . . .83,133,025 bu., $22,445,917 
Wheat.. 5,766,728 bu., $3,575,371 
Oats . . . .10,234,958 bu., $2,763,439 
Rye.... 129,326 bu., $80,182 
Barley.. 57,542 bu., $28,771 
Buckwh. 13,120bu., $7,085 
Potatoes, 2,443,328 bu., $977,331 
Hay .... 550,876 t's, $5,965,987 
Cotton.. 400,000 bis. 
School children en- 
rolled 463,461 

Average attendance . . 330,978 
Military Strength. 

Organized 3,369 

Available 169,000 

Newspapers, 1895 275 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation 42 . 78 



Population of Chief Cities. 
Esthnated, 1893. 1890. 

Memphis 105,000 ■ 64.495 

Nashville 87,000 76.1 68 

Chattanooga.... 45,000 29.100 
Knox ville 28.000 22,535 

TEXAS. Page 811. 

Counties 225 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 2,R38,263 

Total vote cast, 1892. . . 418,426 
For Cleveland, D . . . . 239,148 

" Weaver, Pop 99,6.38 

" Harrison, R 77,475 

" Bid well. Pro 2,165 

Total vote cast, 1894. . . 437,806 

For Culberson, D 241 ,882 

" Makimson, R 55,402 

" Schmidt, Ind. R. 5,026 

" Nugent, Pop 159,224 

Governor, Charles A. Culberson. 

Term expires Jan'y 12, 1897. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896, 13 

Republicans 1 

Democrats 12 

Post-offices, 1895 2,730 

Railroads (miles), 1895 9,230 

Manufactures $70,433,551 

Operatives 39,475 

Yearly wages $18,-586,338 

Farm Products, 1895. 
Corn. . .10,790,565 bu., $.33,450,725 
Wheat. 2,081,640 bu., $1,373,882 
Oats. . .14,569,178 bu., $3,787,000 
Rye.... 24,129 bu., $18,097 
Barley, 53,654 bu., $28,973 
Potat's. 1,276,082 bu., $995,.344 
Hay. . . . 676,677. t's. $4,351 ,033 
Cotton, 3,114,000 bales. 
School children enrolled, 

1895 598,608 

Average attendance 418,069 

Military Strength. 

Organized 3,000 

Available 3(K).(X)0 

Newspapers. 1895 659 

Annual average precipi- 
tation 25.85 

Population of Chief Cities. 

Estimated, 189,5. 1890. 

Dallas 60,000 38,067 

San Antonio 45,000 37,673 

Galveston 32,000 29,084 

Houston ,31,000 27,557 

Ft. Worth 27,000 23,076 



UTAH. Page 831. 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 254, 

Total vote cast, 1892. . ,34, 

Total vote cast, 1895. . 41 

For Wells, R 20 

" Cane, D 18 

Governor, Heber M. Wells. 
Term expires Jan. 1, 1901. 

U. S. Representatives, 1896, 
Republican 1 

Post-offices, 1895 

Railroads (miles) 1895. 1 

Manufactures $8,911. 

Operatives 4 

Yearly wages $2,715, 



743 
.577 
430 
833 
519 



Farm Products, 1895. 

Corn 181,035 bu.. 

Wheat... 2,44.3,526 bu., j 

Oats 926,357 bu., 

R.ve 78,269 bu.. 

Barley... 190,980 bu.. 
Potatoes. 1.064,852 bu.. 

Hay 4.59,712 rs.,j 

School children en- 
rolled 

Average attendance . . 
Military Strength. 

Organized 

Available 

Newspapers (1895) 

Annual average pre- 
cipitation 



$88,707 
;i,075,151 
$277,907 
$27,394 
$74,482 
$362,050 
12,422,682 

57,908 
39,821 

1,080 

25,000 

65 

14.32 



Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Salt Lake City.. 52,000 44,843 
Ogden 19,000 14,889 

VERMONT. Page 839. 

Counties ]4 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 340,000 

Total vote cast, 1892 55,784 

For Harrison, R 37,992 

" Cleveland, D 16,325 

" Bidwell, Pro 1,424 

" Weaver, Pop 43 

Total vote cast, 1894 58.015 

For Woodbury, R 42,663 

" Smith, D 14,142 

" McGinnis 740 

Governor, U. A. Woodbury. 
Term expires Oct. 1, 1896. 
U. S. Representatives, 1896, 2 

Republicans 2 

Post-offices, 1895 .563 

Railroads (miles), 1895.. 975 

Manufactures $38,340,006 

Operatives 24,894 

Yearly wages $10,096,549 

Farm Products, 1895. 

Corn 2,153,460 bu., $1,033,061 

Wheat... 185,078 bu.. $127,704 

Oats 5,100,598 bu., $1,683,197 

Rye .51,808 bu., $29,531 

Barley... 619,778 bu., $291,296 
Buckwh., 409,.515bu., $151..521 
Potatoes, 5.0:^4,152 bu., $1,384,854 

Hay 893,959 t's. ,$10,95(),'.>98 

School children enrolled. . 65,518 

Average attendance 40.120 

Military Strength. 

Organized 707 

Available 44.164 

Newspapers, 1895 80 

Annual average precipi- 
tation 27.02 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Burlington 17,000 ]4.,590 

Rutland 12,000 11,760 

VIRGINIA. Page 849. 

Counties 101 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 1,750.(W) 

Total vote cast, 1892. . 292.242 

For Cleveland, D. . . . 163.977 

'^ Harrison, R 11.3,255 

" Weaver, Pop . . . 12,274 



A DD IT ION A L ST A TIS TICS. 



949 



For Bid well. Pro.... 2,';36 

Total vote cast, 181*3. . 216,154 

For OFeirall. D. . . . 127.940 

• Cocke, Pop 81.239 

" Miller. Pro 6,962 

Governor, Chas. T. r)-Ferrall. 

Term expires Jan. 1. IWW. 
U. S. Representatives. IblKi. 10 

Republican 1 

Democrats 9 

Post-offices. 1895 3,188 

Railroads (miles). 1895. 3,57.0 

Manufactures S88.363.824 

r)rjeratives 59..")91 

Yearly wages S19.644.85fJ 

Farm Proflucts. 1895. 
Com. . . .;i2.tJ(C.1.58 bu..S12.(iG4.W8 
AVTieat . 6..T05..5t<i bu.. S4.228.629 
Oats.... 8,125.061 bu., S2.4.37.518 

Rve 496..5.51 bu., $258,207 

Biickw't. 4«.0f;6 bu.. 825.95^5 
Potatoes..S,f)31.325 bu., $1,151,904 

Hay ~4.601 t" s, S8.a5.3.669 

School children en- 
rolled .352.710 

Average attendance 203.874 
MOitary Strength. 

Organized 3.107 

Available 220.000 

Newspapers CiWo) 272 

Average annual pre- 
cipitation 45.10 

PopuLATiox OF Chief Cities. 

Estimated. 1895. 1890. 

Richmond 100.000 81 .:»8 

Norfolk 40,000 .^.871 

Petersburg 24.000 22.680 

Lynchburg 22.000 19.709 

Roanoke 20.000 16.159 

Alexandria 15.500 14..339 

Portsmouth.... 14,000 13.288 

WASHINGTON. PAGE 865. 

Coimties 'H 

Population, 1896 Testi- 

matedj 415.f)iX) 

Total vote ca.st. 1892 87.91 1 

For Harrison. R .36.460 

•■ Cleveland. D 29.844 

'• Weaver. Pop 19.054 

'■ Bid well. Pro 2..V>i 

Governor. John H. 31cGraw. 

Term exyjires Jan'y 11. 1897. 
U. S. Representatives. 1896, 2 

RepubUcans 2 

Post-offices. 1805 804 

Railroads rmiles) 1895.. 2.8C6 

Manufactures S41. 768.022 

Oi^eratives 20..366 

Yearly wages S12. 658.614 

Farm Products. 1895. 

Com 93.263 bu.. S.37..3a5 

Wheat. . .7.195.952 bu.. S2.950..340 

Oats .3.671.975 bu.. S1.028.15:J 

Rve 64.481 bu.. S48..361 

Barter... 1.M2.21] bu.. Sr:>.&40 
Potatoes. 2.412.757 bu. . S675.572 

Hav 6rt ».273 fs.. S4.(61 .84-3 

School children enrolled. 86.72fJ 
Average attendance 58..399 



Militarj' Strength. 

Orga"nize<l 1..530 

Available 85.W)0 

Newspapers. IH'Jo 225 

Average annual precipi- 
tation 63..53 

PoptXATiox OF Chief Cities. 
Estimated, 1895. 1890. 

Seattle 60.000 42.8:37 

Tacoma .5f».00f) 36.006 

Spokane 25.0f/i 19.922 

WEST VIRGINIA. Page 879. 

Counties -54 

Population, 1896 (esti- 

matedj 87.5.000 

Total vote cast, 1892. . 170.948 

For cneveland. D . . . 84.4.35 

• Harri.son. R.... 80.^2 
'• Weaver, Pop. . . 4.116 
'■ BidweU. Pro... 2.145 

Governor. Wm. A. 5IacCorkle. 

Term expires March 4. 1897. 

U. S. Representatives. 4 

RepubUcans 4 

Post-offices. 1895 1,778 

Railroads (miles), 1895 1.976 

Manufactures S38.702.125 

Operatives 21.969 

Yearly Wages S8..330.997 

Farm Products. 1895. 
Com.... 16.662. 789 bu.. $6,665,116 
Wheat.. 4.303.780 bu.. 82.969,608 
Oats.... .3,5-39..320 bu.. S1132..588 

Rye 240.7.59 bu.. $146,863 

Buckwh. ^8.824 bu.. 8164.6.3fJ 
Rotates. 2.297.6.31 bu.. SWw.VX) 
Hay .... 337.425 t"n.s, S4.295.420 
Scliool children en- 
rolled 218.815 

Average attendance. . 1.35,318 
3Iilitary Strength. 

Organized 838 

Available 122.475 

Newspapers. 1895 167 

Average annual pre- 
cipitation .3.5.28 

Population of Chief Cities. 
Entimated. 189.5. 1890. 

A\Tieeling :i7.0fJ0 .34..522 

Huntington U.W) 10.108 

Parkersburg .... 10.'/>J 8.4fJ8 

WISCONSIN. Page 885. 

Counties 68 

Population. 1896 resti- 

matedj 1.937.915 

Total vote cast, 1892. . .371,187 

For Cleveland. D 177.355 

■ Harrison. R 170.791 

• BidweU. Pro.... 1.3.132 

• Weaver. Pop . . . 9.909 
Total vote cast. 1804. . .375.244 

For Upham. R 196.1.VJ 

• Peck. D 142.^J 

• ' PoweU. Pop 25.604 

• Cneghora. Pro . . ll-24fi 
Governor. Wm. H. Upham. 

Term expires Jan. 4. 1897. 
U. S. Representatives. 1836. 10 
RepubUcans 10 



Post-offices, 1895 1.809 

Railroad (milesj 18(t5. 6,031 

Manufactures S248,546.1M 

Operatives 132.fJ31 

Yearty wages 8-51,843.708 

Farm Proflucts. 1895. 
Com. . . .:«.f/«.497 bu.. S9.928.f>19 
Wheat.. 8.616.218 bu.. S4..394.271 
Oats. . . .6.3,020.2»i9 bu...$11..343.f>18 

Rve 4.2fJ8.4n bu.. 81.472.944 

Barlf-v. . 10.868.483 bu.. 83.695,284 
Buckwt. '.mM2 bu.. S4J6.0f;7 
Potafs .19,230.040 bu.. S3.2«J9.10T 

Hay 1..370.125 ts.Sl3,l!*4,313 

School children en- 
rolled HHfy.a^) 

Average attendance 2.53.3.52 
3IiUtary Strength. 

Organized 2..571 

■ Available 308,71 7 

Newspapers. 1895 578 

Average annual jjre- 

cipitation 28.87 

Popt-LATiox OF Chief Cities. 
Extiraated. 189.5. 189fJ. 

Milwaukee 275.000 204.468 

La Cros.se 3.5.000 25.090 

Oshkosh 27.000 22.836 

Puicine ■£>.<*]() 21.014 

West Superior. . 20.000 

WYOMING. Page 903. 

Counties 12 

Population, 1896 (esti- 
mated) 100.000 

Total vote ca-st, 1892. .. 16.674 

For Harri.son. R 8,454 

■ Weaver. Pop 7.722 

• BidweU. Pro 498 

Total vote cast. 1894. . . 19.290 

For Richard-s. R 10.149 

•• HoUidaj-. D 6.965 

'^ TidbaU. Pop 2.176 

Governor. Wm. A. Richards. 

Term expires Jan. 2. 1899. 

U. S. Representatives. 1 

Republicans 1 

Post-offices 251 

Railroads < miles;. 1895. 1.177 

Slanufactures $2<367.e'Jl 

Operatives 1.144 

Y'early Wages 8878,&1<J 

P'ann Product.s, 1895. 

Com 68.28:ibu.. $.38,921 

Wheat 198.198 bu.. $126,847 

Oats .581. 175 bu.. 8226.658 

Potatoes . . .275.8^X1 bu.. $154,448 

Hay 254.883 fns. $1,656,740 

School children en- 

roUed 10.810 

Average attendance. . 6.59* 
JIilitar>- Strength. 

Organized 460 

Available 8.00rj 

News-papers, 1895 ** 

Average annual pre- 
cipitation 12.01 

PopcT-ATiox of Chief Cities. 

Extimuted. 1895. 189ii. 

Cheyenne 1.5.000 11.690 

Laramie 8.000 6.:*** 



95° 



A'liVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 



ESTIMATED POPULATION IN 1896 — SUM MARIZED. 



Name of State. 



Alabama . 



Alaska 

Ainzona 

Arkansas , 

California 

Colorado 

Connecticut 

Delaware 

District of Columbia. . 
Florida 



Georgia 

Idaho 

Illinois 

Indiana 

Indian Territoiy . 

Iowa 

Kansas 

Kentucky 

Louisiana 

Maine 

Maryland 

Massachusetts . . 



Pop. in 
1896. 



1,600,000 

40,000 
77,000 
1,600,000 
1,220,000 
450,000 
800,000 
185,000 
280.000 
485,000 

1,984,930 

130,000 

4,500,000 

3,135,300 

2,000,000 
1,350,000 
2,200,000 
1,225,000 
732,000 
1,138,348 
2,495,343 

2,297,000 
1,610,000 
1,351,850 
3,200,000 

185,000 

1,158,000 

60,000 

400,000 

New Jersey i 1,072,942 



New IMexico 185,000 

New York 6,690,842 



Michigan . . 
Minnesota . 
Mississippi . 
Missouri . . . 



Montana . 
Nebraska . 
Nevada . . . 
New Hampshire. 



Area 

Square 
Miles. 



North Carolina 1,720,000 

North Dakota 225,000 

Ohio 4,000,000 



Oklahoma 

Oregon 

Pennsylvania. 



Rhode Island. 



South Carolina . 
South Dakota.. , 

Tennessee 

Texas 



Utah 

Vermont 

Virginia .... 
Washington. 



West Virginia. . 

Wisconsin 

Wyoruing 



275,000 

400,000 

5,760,128 



384,758 

1,-375,000 

332,000 

1,800,000 

2,a38,263 

254,743 

340,000 

1,750,000 

415,000 

875,000 

1,937,915 

100,000 



52,250 

577,390 

113,020 

53,850 

158,360 

103,925 

4,990 

2,050 

70 

58,680 

59,475 
84,800 
56,650 
36,350 
31,400 
56,025 
82,080 
40,400 
48,720 
33,040 
12,210 
8,315 

58,915 
83,365 
46,810 
69,415 

146,080 
77,510 

110,700 
9.305 
7,815 



122,580 
49,170 



52,250 
70.795 
41,060 



39,030 
96,030 
45,215 



1,2.50 

30,570 
77,650 
42,050 
265,780 

84.970 
9,565 

42.450 
61,180 

24,780 
56,040 
97,890 



Capitals. 



Montgomery . 

Sitka 

Phoenix 

Little Rock . . . 
Sacramento . . 

Denver 

Hartford 

Dover 

WashingI on . . 
Tallahassee . . 

Atlanta 

Bois6 City . . . 
Springfield . . . 
Indianapolis . . 

Des Moines. . . 

Topeka 

Frankfort .... 
Baton Rouge . 

Augusta 

Annapolis . . . . 
Boston 

Lansing 

St. Paul 

Jackson 

Jefferson City- 
Helena 

Lincoln 

Carson City. . . 

Concord 

Trenton 

Santa F6 

Albany 



Raleigh . . . 
Bismarck . 
Columbus , 



Guthrie 

Salem 

Harrisbui'g . 



Providence 
Newport. . . 
Columbia . 

Pierre 

Nashville. . . 
Austin 



Salt Lake City 

Montpelier 

Richmond 

Olympia 



Charleston. 
Madison . 



Est. 
Pop. 



25,000 

1,400 

4,000 

40,000 

.32,000 

140,0(10 

65,00(J 

5,000 

280,000 

4,000 

110,000 

5,000 

35,000 

150,600 

56,359 
31,007 
10,000 
13,000 
12,000 
9,000 
500,000 

15,000 

140,292 

8,000 

9,000 

16,000 
75,000 
4.000 
19,000 
62,518 



6,000 
100,000 



14,000 

3,000 

110,000 



8,000 
13,000 
55,000 



160,000 
22,000 
18,(XJ0 
4,0(11) 
87,000 
17,000 

52,000 

6,000 

100,000 

7,000 

9,000 
16,000 



Chief Cities. 



Cheyenne I 15,000 



Mobile 

BirmiugJiam . . 

Juneau 

Tucson 

Little Rock.... 
San Francisco. 

Denver 

New Haven . . . 
AVilmington . . . 
Washington. . . 

Key West 

Jacksonville. . . 

Atlanta 

Bois6 City 

Chicago 

Indianapolis. . . 

McAlester 

Des Moines 

Kansas City. . . 

Louisville 

New Orleans. . . 

Portland 

Baltimore 

Boston 

Worcester 

Detroit 

Minneapolis . . . 

Vicksburg 

St. Louis 

Kansas Citij.. . 

Helena 

Omaha 

Virginia City.. 
Manchester . . . 

Newark 

Jersey City . . . . 

Paterson 

Santa F6 

New York 

Brooklyn 

Buffalo 

Rochester 

Syracuse 

Wilmington . . 

Fargo 

Cincinnati .... 

Cleveland 

Toledo 

Columbus 

Oklahoma .... 

Portland 

Philadelphia . 

Pittsburg 

Allegheny 

Scranton 

Providence . . . 

Charleston 

Siiiux Falls. . . 

Memphis 

Dallas 

Sctn Antonio. 
Salt Lake City 
Biu-lington — 

Richmond 

Seattle 

Tacoina 

Wheeling 

Milwaukee — 
Cheyenne 



Est. 
Pop. 

48,000 

36,000 
1,600 
5,000 

40,000 
350,000 
140,000 
100,000 

67,000 
280,000 

23,000 

30,000 

110,000 

5,000 

,750,000 

150,600 

4,000 

56,.359 

38,316 
200,000 
275,000 

40,000 
500,000 
500,000 
100,000 
300,000 
192,8*3 

15,000 
600,000 
150,000 

16,000 

160,000 

8,000 

55,000 
215,806 
182,713 

97.344 
6,000 
.000,000 
,150,000 
350,000 
160,000 
115,000 

22,500 
7,500 
365,000 
.345,000 
125,000 

110,000 
7.000 

81,000 
,350,000 
275,000 

120,000 

110,000 

160,000 

62,500 
13,000 

105,t)t)0 
60,(X)0 
45,000 
52.000 
17,000 

100,000 
60,000 
50,000 
37,000 

275,000 
15,000 



LRBJa17 



A DDITIONA L STA TIS TICS — S UMMA RIZF.D. 



951 



THE OFFICIAL CENSUS OF 1890-SU M M ARIZED. 



Name of State. 
CSee Map, pp. 4, 5.) 



Pop. in 

1890. 



Area 
Square 

Miles. 



Capitals. 



Pop. 



Chief Cities, t 



Alabama, H4. 



Alaska 

Arizona, C4 

Arkansas, G4 

California, Ao 

Colorado, D.3 

Connecticut, M2 

Delaware, L3 

Dist. of Columbia, K3. 
Florida, J5 



Georgia, J4 . 



Idaho, B2 

Illinois, H2 

Indiana, H3 

Indian Territory, F3. 

Iowa, G2 

Kansas, F3 

Kentucky, J3 

Louisiana, Gi4. .• 

Maine. Ml.. 

Maryland, K3 

Massachusetts, L2 . . . 

Michigan, HI 

Minnesota, Gl 

Mississippi, H4 

Missoiu-i,G3 



Montana, Dl 

Nebraska, E::^ 

Nevada, B3 

New Hampshire, L^.. 
New Jersey, Ld 



New Blexico, 1)4. 
New York, K2. . . 



North Carolina. K3. 
North Dakota. F.l . . 
Ohio, J2 



Oklahoma. F3 

Oregon, A:i 

Pennsylvania, K;^ 



Rhode Island, M2 . 



South Carolina, J4. 
South Dakota, E2.. 
Tennessee. H3 



Texas, F4. 



Utah, C3 

Vermont, \il 

Virginia, K3 

Washington. A'-'.. . 

West Virginia, .13 . 

Wisconsin, Gl 

Wyoming, Dv' 



1,513,017 

31,759 

59,620 

1,128,179 

1,208,130 

412,198 

746,2.58 

168,493 

230,.392 

391,422 

l,a37,.353 

84,385 
3,820,351 
2,192,404 

180,490 
1,911,896 
1,427,096 
1,858,035 
1,118,.587 

601,086 
1,042,390 
2,238.943 
2,093,889 
1,301,826 
1.289,600 
2,679,184 

132,1.59 

1,058,910 

45.7-61 

376, .530 
1,444,933 

1.53,.593 
5,997,8.53 



1,617,947 

182,719 

.3,672,316 



61,8:M 

313,707 

5,258,014 



345, .506 

1,1.51,149 

328,808 
1,767,518 

2,2:^5,52:? 



207,905 

:i?2,422 

1 ,6.55,980 

:i49,390 

762.7i)4 

1,(586.880 

()().705 



52,250 

577,.390 

113,020 

53,850 

li58,.360 

103,925 

4,990 

2,050 

70 

58,680 

59,475 

84,800 
56,6.50 
36,.350 
.31.400 
56,025 
82,080 
40,400 
48,720 
33,040 
13,210 
8,.315 
58,915 
83,365 
46,810 
69,415 

146,080 

77,.510 

110,700 

9,305 

7,815 

122,580 
49,170 



.52,2.50 

70,795 
41,060 

.39,030 
9(),030 
45,215 



30..570 
77,650 
42,050 



84,970 

9.565 

42.450 

61.180 

24,780 
56,040 
97,890 



Montgomery. . 



Sitka 

Phcenix 

Little Rook . 
Sacramento 

Denver 

Hartford ... . 

Dover 

Washington . 
Tallahassee . 



21,8 

1 
3, 
25, 
26, 
106, 
53 
3. 
2.30 



Atlanta ! 6.5,.533 



Bois6 City 

Springfield .., 
Indianapolis 



Des Moines 

Topeka 

Frankfort 

Baton Rouge . . 

Augusta 

Annapolis 

Boston 

Lansing 

St. Paul 

Jackson 

Jefferson Citj-. . 



Helena 

Lincoln 

Carson City. 

Concord 

Trenton 



Santa Fe. 
Albany. . . 



Raleigh . . . 
Bismarck.. 
Cohunbus 



Guthrie 

Salem 

Ilarrisburg . 



Providence . 

Newport 

Columbia . . 

Pierre 

Nashville. . . 



Austin . 



2,311 

24,9f)3 
105,4;i6 



13,8.34 
55,1.54 
3,9.50 
17,004 
57,4.58 

6,ia5 
94,923 



12,678 
2.186 
88,150 

2,788 
10,422 
39,385 



1.32,146 

19,4.57 

15.:i53 

3,2.35 

76,168 

14..575 



Mobile 

Birnilnijhani. . . 

Juneau 

Tucson 

Little Rock 

San Francisco.. 

Denver 

New Haven 

Wilmington . . . 

Washington 

Key West 

Jacksonvilh' . . . 

Atlanta 

Savannah 

Bois6 City, 

Chicago 

Indianapolis . . . 

McAlester 

Des Moines 

Kansas City 

Louisville 

New Orleans ' 

Portland 

Baltimoi-e 

Boston 

Detroit 

Minneapolis .... 

Vicksburg 

St. Louis.' 

Kansas City .... 

Helena 

Omaha [ 

Virginia City ! 

Manchester 

Newark 

Jersey City 

Santa F^ 

New York ' 1 

Brooklyn 

Buffalo 

Rochester 

Wilmington 

Fargo 

Cincinnati 

Cleveland 

Oklahoma 

Portland 

Philadelphia. . . . ! 1 

Pittsburg 

Allegheny 

Providence.. . 



Salt Lake City . . 44,843 

IMontpelier 4,160 

Richmond 81.:W8 

Olympia 4,698 

Charleston 6,742 

Madison 13,426 

Chevenne 11,690 



Charleston 

Sioux Falls . . . 

Nashville 

Memphis 

Dallas , 

.Saw Antonio.. 

Galveston 

Salt Lake City 

Burlington 

Richmond 

Seattle 

Taconia 

Wheeling 

Milwaukee 

Chevenne 



31,076 

26,178 

1,253 

5,1?" 

25,8< . 

298,9f- 

106,71 H 

81,2&s 

61,43i 

230,39 .' 

18,08ii 

17,20i 

65,5.33 

43,189 

2,311 

,099,850 

105.436 

a3,025 

50,093 

38,316 

161,129 

242,039 

36,425 

434.439 

448,477 

205.876 

164,738 

13,373 

451,770 

132,716 

1.3.834 

140,452 

8,511 

44.126 

181.a30 

163.003 

6,185 

,515.301 

806.34i 

2.55,664 

1.3:3.896 

20.056 

5.664 

296.908 

261.:te3 

4.151 

46,385 

,046,964 

238.617 

105.287 

132.146 

.54.955 
10.177 
76,168 
tU.495 
38.067 
37,673 
29.084 
44,845 
14,590 
81.;388 
42.8:57 
36.000 
:«..522 
204,408 
11.690 



Total population. 62,840.499 : ttnal ai-ea, 3.(i02.270. 
I^opulation \\ithout Alaska and Indian Territory, 62.622,2.50. Area without Alaska, 3,024.880. 

+ Incliidt's the largest city in tlie State, and in italics all other cities which nearly equal it or have 
over 100,000 population. 








'*^ 



.f*''--^ 



->-^ 



7^ 






f 




\0^^^ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




011292 384 6 ^ 









I' ■ • ' ■ ',■ ill ' ';,%i:''''' '■ 

Jsv/>'.''v'.';',i,;„i..i,';;!':..' 

1 .i ' •"■',' .V'. . ■ ' 

),''-'''¥•'* ' '; V'," ' ■ ■ : 



V'liii 



